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Feast Magazine is hosting a food truck event each month in one of Kansas City’s beautiful parks. We’ll highlight prominent fountains throughout the city, while guests enjoy food from some of the city’s most popular food trucks.
Feast oF Fountains schedule - 5:30 p.m. - 7:30 p.m. thursday, May 12:
Volker Fountain/Theis Park
thursday, June 16:
The National WWI Museum and Memorial/North Lawn
thursday, July 14:
Northland Fountain in Gorman Park
thursday, august 11: thursday, septeMber 8:
Spirit of Freedom Fountain The Concourse Fountain in Kessler Park
ParticiPating food trucks on may 12 Cheeesy Pop’s Bochi KC BBQ
Twisted Taters Fungal Fusion KC Pinoy
SavannaJaneLemonade Ohana’s Shaved Ice
receive a free mist twst with every food Purchase
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MAY 2016
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It’s a deliciously versatile hybrid grape that delivers a wide range of flavors for every season. From debonair dry wines to delectably sweet dessert wines, the Vignoles is a grape of many possibilities with a penchant to please. Plus, Missouri Vignoles are some of the most awarded wines in the “Show Me” State. So, take my advice and prepare to have your breath taken away with any of the wines Missouri has crafted for you.
MissouriWine .org | #MeetMoWines
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MAY 2016
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Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2016
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A FEAST OF FAME, FORTUNE & FUN
99 Hops House hosts the ultimate Hollywood Casino Amphitheater pre and post-concert parties, with great food specials, drinks on the patio and more. Or, turn your concert night into a date night with an amazing dinner at Final Cut Steakhouse, where the finest steaks and succulent seafood meet unbelievable service.
RIDE OUR PARTY BUS TO THE HOLLYWOOD CASINO AMPHITHEATER AND BACK AND SKIP ALL THE PARKING LOT TRAFFIC. HOTEL PACKAGES ARE ALSO AVAILABLE ON OUR WEBSITE.
HOLLYWOODCASINOSTLOUIS.COM H 888-STL-GAME H 314-77O-81OO Must be 21. Gambling problem? In Missouri, call 1-888-BE TS-OFF or visit 888betsof f.org.
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Inspired Local Food Culture | Midwest
FEATURES
MAY 2016 FroM the staFF | 10 |
| 31 |
This month, we’re crazy for Tiki at The Golden Girl Rum Club, a Springfield, Missouri, bar where it’s always paradise. In his monthly column, The Mix, Matt Seiter shares how to make a spritz, the classic Italian aperitif, and in On Trend, we sip local sparkling rosés made with various winemaking techniques.
from the PUBLISher
Eat local, drink local.
| 12 |
dIgItaL content
What’s online this month.
| 14 |
feaSt tv
A look at the wine episode.
| 19 |
drInk
dIne This month we visit three restaurants, including a gastropub made in hog heaven in Maplewood, Missouri, and explore local Gouda made at three Missouri creameries. In our monthly travel piece, Road Trip, senior editor Liz Miller visits Washington, Missouri, and shares where to dine, drink and stay this month during the city’s annual Art Fair & Winefest.
| 41 |
shop We talk to the owner of a new, multifaceted boutique and wine bar in Wildwood, Missouri, and visit Excelsior Springs, Missouri, to find the largest selection of Missouri wines in the state. We also taste-test a vino-infused ketchup from Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City.
| 49 |
Cook | 50 | heaLthy aPPetIte Indulge and stay healthy with a strawberry-rosé smoothie.
64
barreLIng ahead
A Missouri cooper sketches the art and the science of his trade.
| 52 | myStery ShoPPer Buy it and try it: verjus.
| 56 | menU oPtIonS Raise a glass for hearty roasted spring vegetables with a red wine reduction.
| 58 | Sweet IdeaS
72
delight your guests with Earl Grey panna cotta with lemon-almond biscotti by pastry chef Christy Augustin.
COVER PHOTO OF HOFFMEISTER BARRELWORKS (P. 64) By jUdd dEMALInE TABLE OF COnTEnTS PHOTO OF MILK And HOnEy BOUTIqUE (P. 44) By CHERyL WALLER
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MakIng the grape
Students at the University of Missouri’s Grape and Wine Institute are learning how to produce world-class American wines and sharing that knowledge with local winemakers.
the FrenCh ConneCtIon
Missouri vintners are taking traditional and modern approaches to make wine with decidedly French character.
90
CrossIng the vIne
95
rIse and dIne (and wIne!)
Two new hybrid grape varietals take root in the Midwest.
Upgrade brunch with a six-course feast paired with local wine.
Magazine Volume 7
| Issue 5 | May 2016
Vice President of Niche Publishing, Publisher of Feast Magazine Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com
Over the course of 2016, we will be traveling around the world, visiting farms, selecting top lots, and learning more from our producer partners. By strengthening our relationships with our producers and communities, we can ensure the quality of your coffee for years to come.
Director of Sales Angie Henshaw ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1298 EDITORIAL Senior Editor Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Managing Editor Nancy Stiles, nstiles@feastmagazine.com Associate Editor Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com Digital Editor Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor Mabel Suen Editorial Intern Daniel Puma Proofreader Christine Wilmes
EL SALVADOR january MYANMAR february HONDURAS march BRAZIL july COLOMBIA august HAWAII september ETHIOPIA november RWANDA november
Contributing Writers Christy Augustin, Ettie Berneking, Ren Bishop, Sherrie Castellano, Gabrielle DeMichele, Mallory Gnaegy, Hilary Hedges, Bryan A. Hollerbach, Nadia Imafidon, Valeria Turturro Klamm, Brandon and Ryan Nickelson, Matt Seiter, Matt Sorrell, Jessica Vaughn, Shannon Weber ART Art Director Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Production Designer Jacklyn Meyer, jmeyer@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers Zach Bauman, Sherrie Castellano, Judd Demaline, Hannah Foldy, Jonathan Gayman, Gregg Goldman, Angelique Hunter, Jacklyn Meyer, Anna Petrow, Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg, Starboard & Port Creative, Mabel Suen, Landon Vonderschmidt, Cheryl Waller FEAST TV
producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios
CONTACT US Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1244, feastmagazine.com DISTRIbUTION To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Jeff Moore for St. Louis, Jefferson City and Columbia at jmoore@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.
FOLLOW OUR JOURNEY: @KALDIS_COFFEE #FOLLOWTHEGOAT 8
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Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright Š 2010-2016 by Feast Magazineâ&#x201E;˘. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC
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MAY 2016
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publisher’s letter
FeAst eVeNts
what goes together grows together, as they say, and “they” are correct.
A visit to the Grape and Wine Institute allowed me to see how science is impacting our local wine industry. Turn to page 72 for Mallory Gnaegy’s in-depth look at the program at MU and watch the wine episode of Feast TV (check your local PBS station for listings or visit feastmagazine.com) to meet Misha Kwasniewski and hear how he and his students are contributing to the advancement of the industry.
The local-food movement has been growing in influence and impact over the past 15 years or so. Today, we expect chefs to source directly from farmers whenever possible. We reach for craft beers, eagerly anticipating seasonal releases. Artisan spirits are on the rise, as well, standing proud behind the bar at the region’s best watering holes. And local wine? It’s having a renaissance.
Before Prohibition, Missouri boasted wineries in 48 counties. Stone Hill Winery, which was founded in Hermann, Missouri, in 1847, was one of the largest wineries in the world and the second largest winery in the U.S. Prohibition decimated the local wine industry – hardly a surprise – and it took decades for wineries to reopen and begin producing again. Now, the industry is expanding and evolving at a tremendous rate. In 2011, the 100th Missouri winery opened its doors, and today that number exceeds 120. The industry is a huge economic driver, employing thousands of people and impacting not only the economy of the state but also our quality of life. There are very few places in the U.S. where you can hop in your car and be in the rolling hills of wine country in short order, and I count myself lucky to be able to while away an afternoon enjoying the fruit of our local vines at one of our thriving vineyards. Each winery offers something special, and that diversity weaves a delicious tapestry of experiences for wine-lovers to enjoy. As you peruse our annual wine issue, keep in mind how closely tied wine is to our region’s history. German, French and other European settlers had tiny vineyards in their yards from Dutzow to Arrow Rock, Weston to Ste. Genevieve. It was part of daily living to grow grapes, ferment the juice and enjoy wine. Today, we are circling back to embrace that aspect of our history, and the future of the winemaking industry in and around the Midwest has never been brighter.
feastmagazine.com
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Dine out on The Hill as restaurants offer hand-selected, one-of-a-kind dishes with an authentic atmosphere in the heart of St. Louis. Several of The Hill’s top-rated restaurants are participating this year and are providing a three-course meal for only $25. stl
Chefs Cook real Challenge May through October; Schlafly, Tower Grove, Ferguson, Webster Groves, Land of Goshen and Midtown farmers’ markets; facebook.com/ChefsCookReal
This multimarket series of friendly cook-offs between area chefs at several St. Louis-area farmers’ markets will showcase our local farms and food in a fun, engaging way. stl
Feast Magazine’s taste & toast Fri., May 6, 7pm; Majorette; feastmagazine.com/events
Sample award-winning wines from across the region and dishes from area restaurants at Feast’s Midwest wine social. This is your chance to meet the winemakers who are crafting our local wines and taking the regional wine industry to the next level. KC
Feast of Fountains: A Food truck Fest Thu., May 12, 5:30 to 7:30pm; Volker Fountain/Theis Park; feastmagazine.com/events
Join us for a food truck event each month from May to September in one of Kansas City’s beautiful parks. We’ll highlight prominent fountains throughout the city while guests enjoy food from some of Kansas City’s most popular food trucks. KC
boots & pearls, Wine & Whiskey: A benefit for Alphapointe Thu., May 19, 6 to 9pm; Negro Leagues Baseball Museum; $85; alphapointe.org/bootsandpearlslanding
Dust off your boots, polish your pearls and meet your friends for an evening of fun at the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum. Proceeds from Boots & Pearls, Wine & Whiskey will benefit Alphapointe’s programs and services. Guests will have the opportunity to “taste” or sample a variety of wine and whiskey from around the world and learn what makes each particular type unique. In addition, some of Kansas City’s best restaurants will be on hand to offer guests small bites of some of their signature dishes. stl
south Grand international Dine Around
stl
Thu., May 19, 5 to 10pm; South Grand from Arsenal to Humphrey; $30; southgrand.org/events
Get a taste of one St. Louis’ most vibrant neighborhoods and explore 14 countries within just five city blocks. Enjoy an appetizer, entrée, dessert, drink and wild card. stl
Feast tV taste & see: taste of Asia Fri., May 20, 7pm; Public Media Commons; $15; ninenet.org
Watch Feast TV segments and enjoy presentations and samples from chefs and artisans featured in the Taste of Asia episode. From dim sum and steamed buns to ramen, sushi, tacos and sake, experience the best of our region’s Asian cuisine and learn how to roll your own. MO
Downtown Washington Fine Art Fair & Winefest Fri., May 20 through Sun., May 22; Historic Downtown Washington, Missouri; price varies; downtownwashmo.org
This unique festival in the heart of Missouri wine country draws visitors each spring from across the Midwest. Enjoy wine tastings, a variety of snacks and gourmet foods to sample, wine pairings with local restaurants and a juried art fair featuring regional artists.
schnucks Cooks: roasted Vegetables with red Wine reduction Wed., May 25, 6 to 9pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School; $40; schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704
Join us in the kitchen and learn how to make golden beet salad, cheesy cauliflower grits, roasted vegetables with a red wine reduction, roasted beef tenderloin and strawberry-rhubarb pie. In this class you’ll learn how to perfectly roast meat and veggies, whip up cheesy grits with cauliflower and make the most of seasonal produce including golden beets, strawberries and rhubarb.
Catherine Neville
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restaurant Week on the hill Mon., April 25 through Sun., May 1; The Hill; restaurantweekonthehill.com
stl
Until next time,
publisher@feastmagazine.com
stl
@cat_neville
@cat_neville
ContrIbutors
05.16 judd demaline St. Louis, Photographer Growing up in Smallsville, Ohio, Judd often dreamed of exploring the world beyond the cornfields. When he discovered photography, his adventure began. Through a lens, he’s found his voice. He’s that guy who takes at least two cameras wherever he goes. Judd is a commercial and editorial photographer and videographer, but he doesn’t photograph subjects – he photographs the way they make him feel. He believes it’s important to put all of himself into everything that he does, and his sense of adventure and curiosity always influence the shot. The best day of Judd’s life was a Friday morning. His fiancée, Jessa, gave birth to their daughter, Scarlett. They’re his love and his light. They’ve taught him that patience, quickness and a discerning eye are necessities in both his roles as father and photographer/videographer. But above all, they’ve taught him about love, and he truly loves what he does.
nadia imafidon Lawrence, Kansas, Writer Nadia Imafidon is a Lawrence townie, freelance writer and magazine editor at Sunflower Publishing. As the former features reporter at the Lawrence Journal-World, she quickly fell in love with local artists – including some of the finest chefs in the world in Lawrence. Her favorite stories to pursue are ones that reveal the power of sharing a meal (or a cup of coffee) with another person. Although finding that perfect plate of pasta is important to her, she puts a higher value on the ideas and conversations exchanged over the plate. When she isn’t writing, editing, caffeinating or brunching, she performs as a spoken-word poet and as a vocalist in soul/ funk band Sharp 9. You will rarely find her cooking, but she documents her eating adventures on Instagram @nadiaoye.
WILSONLIGHTING.COM
jessica vaughn Columbia, Missouri, Writer A recent graduate of the University of Missouri’s School of Journalism, Jessica is new to the freelance community but not to Missouri. She was born and raised in Columbia and has yet to call anywhere else home. Her curiosity about food and drink began early, ordering black coffee at breakfast and lobster at dinner in her elementary years. Thankfully the coffee didn’t stunt her growth and instead fueled her inquisitive nature, inspiring her to travel to places like Florence, Italy, to learn about Italian caffé, viticulture and cuisine. There she realized her deep passion for not only indulging in the world’s nectarous cuisine but also for divulging the stories behind the fare. She dreams of following food and wine trails across Missouri and the globe, fork and pen in hand, to author stories that dig deep into cultural histories and to inspire others to do the same.
Kansas City, Photographer Anna’s photography is guided by her love of eating well and traveling often. Following her mantra that life is better spent in new places, Anna’s work captures the beauty of her surroundings, whether that be on the shores of the Amalfi Coast or in a Midwest diner. Kansas City is her home and her favorite place to shoot the astounding culinary variety that exists in the heart of the country. She is represented by prestigious photo agency Offset, and her clientele includes award-winning restaurants all over the nation and travel and hospitality clients all over the world. You can view her work at annapetrow.com.
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L I G H T I N G Inspired Local Food Culture
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DIGITAL CONTENT
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connect with us daily:
fACEbook. get a look at food-and-drink events across the region (like classes at the Culinary Center of Kansas City) at facebook.com/feastmag.
PhoTogRAPhy By JACKLyn MeyeR
thE fEEd: StL Dave Bailey’s newest restaurant lives up to its name. Shift, which opened in early April, is a test kitchen for the Bailey family of restaurants in St. Louis. The menu, which is currently barbecue-focused, changes weekly.
tWIttEr. Follow @feastmag to go behind the
scenes of local collaborations (like our beer-brewing event with 4 hands Brewing Co. and nine network).
PhoTogRAPhy By JenniFeR SiLveRBeRg PhoTogRAPhy CouRTeSy guS guS Fun BuS
PhoTogRAPhy By eTTie BeRneKing
PIntErESt. Wine’s not just for drinking – find infused dishes (like Concord-poached pears with blue cheese, honey and pistachios) on our Wineinspired Dishes board at pinterest.com/feastmag.
thE fEEd: mId-mo Since opening in mid-February, Butcher + Baker has become a one-stop-shop in Springfield, Missouri, offering everything from hot cross buns and stuffed Bavarian pretzels to andouille sausage and kielbasa. morE on thE fEEd: Keep up with what’s happening in the region’s food-and-drink scene by visiting our daily updated news blog, The Feed, at feastmagazine.com/the-feed. We recently shared Rockwell Beer Co.’s plans to open a brewery in St. Louis this year and took a look at The Brewkery’s kombucha line in Kansas City. SPECIAL GIVEAWAY: Win a pair of tickets to the downtown Washington Fine Art Fair & Winefest from May 20
to 22. Just head to the Promotions section at feastmagazine.com for all the details.
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InStAGrAm. hashtag your local food-and-drink photos with #feastgram for a chance to see them in Feast! Details on p. 106. Follow us @feastmag.
Watch our videos and Feast TV.
youtube.com/FeastMagazine
THURSDAY EVENINGS, JUNE 2–SEPT 1, 5–8 p.m. Experience the beauty of the Garden during extended hours. Sip flora-inspired cocktails and savor delectable fare from the Botany Bar, engage with plants at sensational stations, and gather gardening tips from the experts.
Young Friends NIGHT: JUNE 1
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2016 fEStivAL SEASoN May 21 – JUNE 26 “If you think opera is stuffy, snooty, and pretentious, you haven’t been to Opera Theatre of Saint Louis.” – Fox 2 News UNDER 45? Young Friends Nights include dinner buffet and open bar included in the price of your ticket. Media Sponsors
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Inspired Local Food Culture
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FEAST TV
this episode begins at stone hill winery, which began producing wine in hermann, missouri, in 1847. dave johnson, stone hill’s senior winemaker, shares the winery’s celebrated past and discusses its robust future.
TV
experience our region’s storied wine industry with visits to some of the area’s best wineries and a look at the grape and wine institute at the university of missouri-columbia, where the next vintage of winemakers is learning how to produce world-class american wines. plus, we visit one of the region’s newest coopers, hoffmeister barrelworks, where the founder is hand-making white oak barrels in ste. genevieve county. visits to stone hill winery, les bourgeois vineyards and röbller vineyard round out this episode, and we also get in the kitchen with host cat neville to make risotto, a dish that spotlights wine’s versatility.
at mu’s grape and wine institute, students study midwest-specific enology and viticulture, directly impacting the quality of our local wines in the lab and out in the field.
joe hoffmeister makes just 500 missouri oak barrels a year, compared to some of the larger coopers in the state that can make up to 500 in a day. watch as joe builds a barrel from start to finish.
feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors: Missouri Wines
WhoLe Foods Market
L’ écoLe cuLinaire
Missouri Wines supports the more than 125 wineries operating in the state and is focused on promoting the industry’s growth and vitality.
Feast TV is proud to feature Whole Foods Market’s 365 Everyday Value line of products. Pick up ingredients at the Brentwood and Town and Country locations in the St. Louis area.
In St. Louis and Kansas City, L’École Culinaire offers high-quality culinary education from basic culinary skills to careers in management.
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the raphaeL hoteL
neW seasons spa and saLon
The Raphael Hotel is Feast’s official hotel, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.
New Seasons Spa and Salon in south St. Louis County offers a full range of spa services and is the official salon of Feast TV.
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where weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re dining foie in love on p. 22 photography by jacklyn meyer
trending now: local gouda
on trend
Written by bethany Christo PhotograPhy by Jonathan gayman
one of the world’s most popular cheeses, gouda, originated in holland, where it’s been made for more than 800 years. Plenty of local cheesemakers are living the gouda life, too.
raw milk SileX, Mo. Tim Lavy began selling raw-milk cheese from his 45 Brown Swiss and Jersey-cross cows in 2012 as a way to keep Golden L Creamery viable. “It’s value added – you cannot make money on a commercial dairy farm,” Lavy says with a chuckle. “Plus, [cheesemaking] is interesting.” Dairy farming has been in Lavy’s family for three generations on the 127-acre farm in Silex, Missouri; his grandfather made cheese by setting raw milk out on the porch to curdle in the 1950s. Today, the washed-curd, semisoft cheese is aged for just 60 days and gets its natural sweetness and creaminess from antibiotic- and hormone-free milk from cows that eat a grass-only, grain-free diet. The Lillette Gouda comes in original, jalapeño, habanero, garlic and onion, and Italian-herb flavors.
Golden L Creamery, 119 Cemetery Road, Silex, Missouri, 573.656.3367, goldenlcreamery.com
artisan farmstead owenSVille, Mo. For Tom Blatchford of Cool Cow Cheese, producing
high-quality farmstead cheeses requires three essentials: the very best ingredients, farming on pasture with native grass and an artisan approach. Blatchford and his wife, Martha, operate Martha & Tom’s Farm in Owensville, Missouri, where they raise a herd of Jersey cows. Blatchford makes five types of Gouda: aged, young, smoked, red-pepper-smoked and Cool Cow’s newest, blue, which is a Gouda-blue cheese. He’s also perfecting the Missouri Special, a natural-rind cheese with a Gouda base and baby Swiss culture. He and Martha both have sweet tooths, which is what inspired them to first make the sweet, nutty Gouda in 2012, when the creamery got started. “It’s great for wine because the fat coats your tongue and lets you taste certain nuances in wine that you can’t taste with other Goudas or cheeses,” Tom says. Cool Cow Cheese with Martha & Tom’s Farm, 1613 Tschappler Road, Owensville, Missouri, 573.437.2699, coolcowcheese.com
brimstone and goat newarK, Mo. On 18,000 acres in northeast Missouri, 9,500 cows and 2,100 goats produce milk used to make Heartland Creamery’s Gouda-style cheese. Its signature, Brimstone, is a young Gouda made with pasteurized Holstein and Jersey cow milk with habanero and jalapeño. Brimstone; Naturally Goat, a goat’s-milk Gouda; and Legacy, a creamy and buttery Gouda, are each aged only two months. Cheese manager Mike Whitehead is currently experimenting with Heartland’s first batch of wax-coated Gouda aged for nine to 12 months. Whitehead also works with the creamery’s Heartland Recovery Programs, of which he is a graduate. “It’s [the participants’] job to raise the crops, care for and milk the cows and make the cheese,” Whitehead says. “We give them something to be proud of, teach them how to deal with conflict in a better way and make productive memories so that when they leave, they have a fresh start on life.”
Heartland Creamery, 68909 State Highway E, Newark, Missouri, 877.484.2269, heartlandcreamery.com 20
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get the gouda golden L Creamery Find Lillette Gouda in Columbia, Missouri, at Clovers Natural Market, Hy-Vee, Hoss’s Market & Rotisserie, Lucky’s Market, Columbia Farmers’ Market or directly from the creamery. food and wine pairing:
According to the creamery’s website, Lillette Gouda’s “creamy texture is perfect for slicing for sandwiches, hamburgers or grilled chicken breast. It shreds and melts great for putting on your pizza, eggs and salads.” Try melting the Italian-herb flavor on a pizza or over spaghetti, paired with Chambourcin.
Cool Cow Cheese Gouda is always sold at the farm’s store in Owensville, Missouri, and at Farm to You Market, which opened in Washington, Missouri, in April. It also appears at a variety of St. Louis-area farmers’ markets and CSAs, as well as festivals across the state. Call 573.437.2699 for more information. food and wine pairing:
“My favorite thing is a pickle-and-cheese sandwich – bread, butter, a bread-and-butter pickle and a slice of our Gouda cheese,” Tom Blatchford says. “I also love to spread a red-pepper jelly on top for that heat-and-sweet combination. For wine, matching the pH of the cheese with the pH of wine is really fun, like Martin Brothers Winery mead, or you go the opposite – like a very dry red Norton for a yin-and-yang with Gouda’s sweetness.”
heartland Creamery Heartland Creamery’s Gouda is available at many Missouri and southern Illinois Schnuck Markets locations, as well as most Missouri and Kansas Hy-Vees. food and wine pairing:
Pair Heartland’s Legacy cheese with fruit, chutney, olives, cured meats. Slice or melt Brimstone with vegetables, fish, poultry, burgers and nachos. Any of the above pair well with sparkling wine.
KC is the best
CIAO TOWN
• Lunch & Dinner • Catering • Prix Fixe Monday • Tapas Tuesday • Saturday Brunch • Beautiful Patio 5815 Hampton Ave. 314-328-2300 Monday - Saturday
ediblesandessentials.com
ediblesandessentials ediblesandesstl
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spinpizza.com
Inspired Local Food Culture
may 2016
21
just a taste written by betHany CHriStO
where we’re dining From new restaurants to renewed menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining this month.
–eriC Taylor, JuST a TaSTe
KC
mo
PhoToGraPhy By haNNah foldy
“You don’t need to go to a fine-dining restaurant to experience fine wine. You can come in wearing jeans.”
ST. JAMES, MO. eric taylor and Casey Stuck
moved to St. James, Missouri, a year ago to start their own winery, eagles’ Landing; Just A Taste was originally supposed to be its tasting bar. Since opening in October, it’s evolved into so much more, using the area’s italian-american heritage as a jumping-off point. each dish is listed with recommendations from the restaurant’s 20 by-the-glass and 300-plus bottle options. Spring dishes include a bone-in pork chop drizzled with housemade thyme vinaigrette, served with seasonal vegetable succotash and creamy mashed potatoes, or the Just a burger with housemade red-onion jam, sharp white Cheddar and a fried egg. inside the restored brick building, more than 100 can fit in the dining room, which features leather loungers, imposing stone-worked arches and a 26-tap, poured-concrete bar, as well as an event space and a wine cellar. Look for eagles’ Landing’s first vintages of Vignoles, norton, Chambourcin and St. Vincent – as well as Stuck’s first batches of commercial mead – to roll out this summer. “you don’t need to go to a fine-dining restaurant to experience fine wine,” taylor says. “you can come in wearing jeans.” Just a Taste, 200 N. Jefferson St., St. James, Missouri, 573.265.6506, justatastemo.com
stl
prime sushi
PHOtOgraPHy by anna PetrOw
KANSAS CITY. Prime Sushi opened late last year in the former accurso’s italian restaurant space; owners Steve and Jasmine young reworked the interior into a charming and playful mashup of the former italian spot with a sleek sushi bar. Prime Sushi’s menu is about half raw and half hot dishes: you’ll find sushi, sashimi, maki rolls and combination platters offered alongside bento boxes with chicken teriyaki or tonkatsu pork, plus ramen, Korean bulgogi and bibimbap bowls. there are 26 different maki rolls on the menu, plus two dozen raw, baked or tempura rolls – try the Strawberry Fields with avocado, crab, cream cheese and shrimp tempura, wrapped in soy paper and topped with strawberries. the bar is still front and center in the space, and the drinks pack a serious punch. Cocktails include the Japan with Fashion, a take on the traditional Horsefeather, made with bourbon, spicy ginger, bitters, amaro Meletti and an orange-peel garnish.
Prime Sushi, 4980 Main St., South Plaza, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.931.4829, primesushikc.com 22
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PHOtOgraPHy by JaCKLyn Meyer
written by Jenny Vergara
the muddled pig gastropub written by HeatHer riSKe
MAPLEWOOD, MO. after several years
working in kitchens together, Michelle allender and austin Hamblin are striking out on their own. in February, the pair, who most recently helped open bella Vino wine bar & tapas in St. Charles, Missouri, debuted The Muddled Pig Gastropub in the former home of the wood in Maplewood, Missouri. true to its name, the restaurant puts a heavy emphasis on pork, including on-trend poutine with stout-braised pork or a crispy pork belly banh mi. allender and Hamblin describe their menu as “chef-driven pub fare” – look for everything from a classic
burger with a house-ground patty and hand-cut fries to Foie ‘n’ waffles, featuring a stack of rosemary waffles topped with seared foie gras, a fried quail egg, arugula and port wine-red currant syrup. in addition to craft brews and a handful of wines, the whiskey-focused bar program includes six specialty cocktails. On tuesdays, you can get the house burger, any beer from 4 Hands brewing Co. and a shot of buffalo trace for just $10. The Muddled Pig Gastropub, 2733 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, Missouri, 314.781.4607, themuddledpig.com
one on one
KC
claude aoun
chef, french gourmet c.a.
Written by nadia imafidon
LAWRENCE, KS. authentic
photography by zach bauman
french pastries have started popping up at the bourgeois Pig and decade in Lawrence, Kansas, thanks to Parisian chef Claude aounâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s French Gourmet C.A. youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find an assortment of macarons, tarts and canelĂŠs de Bordeaux â&#x20AC;&#x201C; glossy brown pastries with a crispy, caramelized exterior and custard center. the chef arrived in Lawrence just last September after moving from france with his partner. aoun brought with him more than 20 years of restaurant experience, most notably as head chef at well-known restaurant aux trois Petits Cochons in Paris. for now, heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s delivering his delicate pastries to Lawrence restaurants nearly daily and takes custom orders with 20 hours notice. Tell us about your canelĂŠs. the base of the canelĂŠ is like the base of a crĂŞpe, but i put vanilla and rum in it. you have to bake it in a very special copper mold that you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find [easily in the U.S.]. the thing that people like about the canelĂŠs is the texture; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not the texture theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen before. itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not high-calorie. from 1 liter of base, i can make 34 canelĂŠs, and i only put [in] 50 grams of butter. What makes a good macaron? each batch of 30 macarons takes 2½ hours because itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s delicate. Sometimes it works out really well, and sometimes no, and i donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know why. it depends on [the] eggs, oven, me â&#x20AC;&#x201C; everything. if you mix it by hand, not [using your dominant hand], you would have different macarons. Good macarons have to have a little crunch when you start to bite it, and then really soft. if you cook it two minutes more than necessary, you will have something too crunchy and too dry. everything has to be very precise. What kind of fillings do you use? every day i like to change something. We have classic chocolate, chocolate-coffee, salted caramel, mint, coconut, pistachio and lavender. maybe someday iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll try something unusual, like lime and basil would be perfect â&#x20AC;&#x201C; i love basil. i recently was inspired to make a peanut butter macaron because peanut butter is so popular in america â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it was very successful. What was the biggest challenge about moving from France to the U.S.? the oven. the french oven has turning, or convection, heat, so it gets everywhere. Here, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not 500°f [throughout the oven]; some places, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 415°f. maybe five or six times i failed â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it took two weeks to make perfect canelĂŠs. Will you open your own place anytime soon? itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a big project, and i have to learn english correctly first. So, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s maybe too soon because iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been here for just a few months. iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll try this for now, and weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll see later. maybe one day iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll open a french bakery, cafĂŠ or restaurant. i donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know. for the time being, people love my canelĂŠs and my macarons, so iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll make what they love, and we will see.
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Inspired Local Food Culture
may 2016
23
destination: Washington, Missouri
road trip
WRITTeN By LIz MILLeR
This month marks the 35th anniversary of the Art Fair & Winefest in Washington, Missouri. Hosted in the city’s charming downtown overlooking the Missouri River, festivities start on Fri., May 20, in the evening, with the kickoff of the art fair and winefest. The Winefest brings together 12 Missouri wineries sampling more than 60 wines. The festival caps off with the Sip and Savor Sunday competition, where local wines are paired with dishes from area restaurants. For more information about the festival, visit downtownwashmo.org.
sleep
eat
Gottfried’s Cabin Gast Haus Built in 1834 as a home for G. Gottfried Beyreis’ family (one of the first 15 to settle in the area), the house is one of the oldest and most historic structures in Washington. Gottfried’s is just far enough away from the hustle and bustle to provide a relaxing and restful retreat. The cabin has been outfitted with modern amenities, but its rustic log-cabin interior is preserved. Guests at Gottfried’s also have breakfast covered: $15 gift certificates good at many restaurants come complimentary with your reservation. 124 Jefferson St., 636.239.1743, gottfriedscabin.com
DeBourge Guesthouse
The Blue Duck
I.B. Nuts & Fruit Too
The Blue Duck specializes in hearty comfort food with a creative twist. The riverfront restaurant serves lunch – think Reubens or the DLT (house-cured and smoked duck, lettuce and tomato) – and dinner, including entrées like smoked fried chicken and a buttermilk biscuit waffle slathered in pickled pepper gravy or a Kentucky Hot Brown. For a quick bite, opt for the smoked chicken wings with a craft beer or house cocktail. Owners Chris and Karmen Rayburn also operate Slamburger in Washington, serving griddle burgers, hot dogs, hand-cut fries, milkshakes and more.
This cute downtown shop specializes in house blends of fruits and nuts, housemade candies and other locally made artisan food and drink products, including tonic syrup from New Haven, Missouri’s Pinckney Bend Distillery. Stop in to browse the shop’s many snacks and treats, including dark chocolate orange peels, double-dipped goobers (peanuts) and French-vanilla popcorn.
516 W. Front St. #100, 636.390.9131, blueduckwashmo.com PHOTO COurTESy THE bluE duCk
Overlooking the Missouri River, DeBourge Guesthouse offers single-room bookings, or large parties can rent the entire house for a day, weekend or longer. Guests at DeBourge enjoy a continental breakfast, either in the dining room or delivered directly to your room, and each room comes equipped with a flatscreen TV and cable.
227 Elm St., 636.390.4400, olddutchhotelandtavern.com PHOTO COurTESy Old duTCH HOTEl & TAvErn
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Whether it’s for lunch or dinner, sandwiches made with housemade bread are the focus downtown at Joe’s Bakery & Delicatessen. The small bakery and café bakes its loaves daily (including French, country white and hearty rye), which you can purchase whole or as the bookends to sandwiches such as a classic French dip, a spicy brisket and pepper Jack, and a Reuben. For dinner, Joe’s serves larger plates including marinated pork tenderloin, roasted brisket, pork loin roast and stuffed Italian chicken breast.
200 Elm St., 636.390.4438, ib-nuts.com
Washington Farmers’ Market From April to October, the Washington Farmers’ Market offers the best local produce, meat, eggs and artisan food products produced in and around the town. every Saturday morning from 8am to 1pm, fruit and vegetable vendors including Patchwork Gardens and Hunter’s Ridge Berry Farm set up stalls next to pork farmer Todd Geisert (who recently opened a store, Farm to you Market, in Washington) and pasture-raised chickens from Stuart Farm. 317 W. Main St., 636.239.2715, washmomarket.com
Cowan’s Restaurant
Miller’s Grill
With sweeping views, shopping just steps away and on-site dining, a stay at Old Dutch Hotel & Tavern offers the very best of Washington. With almost eight decades of history, Old Dutch is a local landmark, yet its newly renovated accommodations feature modern conveniences including flat-screen TVs, free Wi-Fi, full baths and adjoining rooms. Stop in the Tavern for lunch, dinner or a drink, including a selection of local craft beers.
Joe’s Bakery & Delicatessen
9 W. Main St., 636.390.8282
119 Johnson St., 636.399.0466, debourgehouse.com
Old Dutch Hotel & Tavern
local gems
Steak, baby back ribs and fried catfish are house specialties at Miller’s Grill, which serves lunch and dinner seven days a week. Highlights on the lunch menu include shrimp or fish tacos, a Reuben sandwich and the catfish po’boy, while the dinner menu offers hearty entrées like bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin, surf and turf, and pulled pork. Be sure to ask about the daily specials, which offer discounts on Miller’s most beloved menu items. 2301 Highway A, 636.390.0167, millers-grill.com
Cowan’s Restaurant was constructed in 1860 as a hardware store before becoming a candy store in the 1920s; Cowan’s has called the building home since 1973. Here, homestyle breakfast includes made-from-scratch Belgian waffles; dinner features stick-to-your-ribs fare including fried chicken and barbecued pork steak, plus housemade pie in flavors like peach-blackberry. 114 Elm St., 636.239.3213, cowansrestaurant.com
John G’s Bier Deck and Tap Room Boasting arguably the best view of the Missouri River of any restaurant in Washington, John G’s Bier Deck and Tap Room is the outdoor extension of John G’s Tap Room, home to Augusta Brewing Co., located just in front of the outdoor patio. Choose from Augusta drafts including the hefeweizen, Jack’s blonde and Hyde Park stout, as well as local wines, paired with burgers, brats or appetizers including “insanely hot” Brewers Nuclear Wings during lunch and dinner hours. 107/109 W. Main St., 636.432.1337, johngsbierdeck.com
Jennie & Grace Coffee Shop Perk up your day with a coffee, espresso or latte from Jennie & Grace Coffee Shop, located just a few blocks from the Missouri River. In addition to coffee and tea drinks and gifts, Jennie & Grace serves breakfast specials like a Reuben english muffin and multigrain mini-pancakes, as well as lunch, dessert and bakery items. 219 W. Main St., 636.283.5288, jennieandgrace.com PHOTO COurTESy JEnniE & GrACE COFFEE SHOP
one on one
mo
rob beasley
executive chef, audubon’s by chaumette Written By Bethany Christo
STE. GENEVIEVE, MO. on a tuesday in
photography courtesy chaumette Vineyards & Winery
March, hank and Jackie Johnson, owners of Chaumette Vineyards & Winery, took over year-old restaurant audubon’s of ste. Genevieve. Just three days later, the rebranded Audubon’s by Chaumette opened its doors for lunch and dinner under executive chef rob Beasley, who also leads the kitchen at Chaumette Vineyards & Winery’s Grapevine Grill. Beasley’s Louisiana roots play heavily into the menu at Grapevine; they also appear in a few spicy touches on audubon’s revamped menu, like the smoked chicken and andouille sausage gumbo and Cajun flatbread cooked in the restaurant’s hearth oven. Beasley estimates two-thirds of the menu is updated versions of the German-inspired fare previously on the menu at audubon’s, including schweineschnitzel, spätzle and sausage and sauerkraut. thanks to an abbreviated lineup of Chaumette’s award-winning wines integrated with audubon’s existing high-quality wine collection, diners have plenty of pairing options. How did you approach Audubon’s by Chaumette’s menu? it was here for a year and pretty well-established, so i didn’t want to turn away all of the regulars who already enjoyed certain dishes. i made small improvements to the best-sellers, like our rib eyes, for example, i changed to a center-cut strip of certified angus beef that’s marinated in rosemary, garlic and pepper, grilled with a roasted potato and poblano hash, and served with red wine-shallot butter. i brightened up the spätzle dough with a little lemon zest and fresh herbs and added a lemon-caper butter sauce to the schweineschnitzel pork cutlets. How did you add your personal touch to the menu? i was born and raised in Louisiana, so there are definitely some of my Cajun roots present, blended with the cuisine of the town’s German heritage. My style and presentation are very simplistic – i’ve always striven to get the very best ingredients and treat them with respect. i’m not huge on garnishes or plating with refined elegance – i’m more rustic. you can have all the flavor in the world, and the plate can still be simple. it starts with ingredients. Where do you source ingredients? i’ve established relationships with farmers through Chaumette, and i’ve definitely carried those over to this restaurant. i’m chomping at the bit – the farmers’ market starts this month, and it’s right across the street from audubon’s. it’s the perfect opportunity for me to develop relationships with local farmers. i don’t serve produce unless i can get it fresh and local, which is hard for some customers at audubon’s to grasp. they’ll ask why they can’t have a tomato on their burger right now. i explain to them that i can get tomatoes from Mexico right now that were gas-ripened, but i’ve chosen not to. it’s an incredible difference. We can get great local tomatoes, and you will have the most beautiful fresh tomato on your burger – we just have to wait a few more months, but it’s so worth it. How do you use wine in your cooking? Wine plays a huge part of any kitchen i’m in, whether it’s in marinades and brines or glazes and reductions. i try to use Chaumette’s wines as much as i can when i cook – when i started, they were kind of amazed at the amount of wine we went through in the kitchen. the wine menu is constantly evolving, and it’s a lot of educating the staff and the customer. at the end of the day, though, i always tell people: “Drink what you like. it might not make sense from a chef or sommelier point of view, but you should drink what you enjoy.” Audubon’s by Chaumette, 9 N. Main St., Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, 573.883.2479, audubonstegen.info
101 Thomas RV Way Wentzville, MO 63385
Sip back and relax. The Amtrak Missouri River Runner travels through the heart of Missouri wine country twice daily between St. Louis and Kansas City. Pick your destination and unwind with a glass of wine while we do the driving.
Fares one-way From St. Louis to: Kansas City $30 Hermann $17 Fares one-way From Kansas City to: Hermann $28 Jefferson City $25 Schedule your trip at Amtrak.com. Plan your adventure at VisitMO.com Kansas City • Independence • Lee’s Summit Warrensburg • Sedalia • Jefferson City • Hermann Washington • Kirkwood • St. Louis
Inspired Local Food Culture
may 2016
25
MArCh TO MAY: ArTIChOKeS
IN SEASON
WRITTen BY nAnCY STILeS
Artichokes get a bad rap when it comes to wine pairings: Their natural acid, called cynarin, causes your next bite to taste a bit sweeter than it normally would. To counteract the effect, pair with a crisp, high-acidity white wine like Traminette or Chardonel. stl
smoked
Kc
alla siciliano
ST. LOUIS. Sugarfire Smoke House isn’t best known for its vegetarian options: Daily
KANSAS CITY. Garozzo’s Ristorante has been serving classic Italian
specials at the St. Louis-area barbecue restaurant’s locations include the InFidel, a sandwich packed with Mangalitsa hog pulled pork, Swabian Hall hog ham, Wenneman Meat Co.’s bacon, a rum-ghost chile sauce, Swiss cheese, pickles and Carolina mustard. Much of the menu might be dedicated to meat-lovers, but don’t pass up chef-owner Mike Johnson’s smoked artichokes. After cold-smoking them for about an hour on a mix of cherry and hickory wood chips, artichokes are breaded, fried and served with a lemon-garlic aïoli. “We have so much meat here that I try to do some nice things for the vegetarian people who get dragged here,” Johnson says. “They love it. We run through ‘em all day long. I’m surprised how many we sell. I just think they taste better with the smoke, and it’s a little twist – something nicer than regular fried artichokes.” Grab the artichoke appetizer at one of Sugarfire’s six Missouri locations: Downtown St. Louis, Olivette, St. Charles, O’Fallon, Valley Park and Washington.
food in Kansas City since 1989 – it lays claim to inventing chicken spiedini – but one of its most popular items won the heart of someone who knows a thing or two about good Italian food. “I’m telling the truth; Tony Bennett, the Tony Bennett, was in here one night, and he said our artichokes were better than his mother’s,” says owner Michael Garozzo. The artichokes alla Siciliano are boiled and then stuffed with Italian-seasoned bread crumbs, shrimp, toasted prosciutto, melted provolone and garlic butter. Over the years, Garozzo’s has expanded from its original Columbus Park location to Overland Park, Kansas, and Lee’s Summit, Missouri. You can order the restaurant’s standard stuffed artichokes with just bread crumbs and garlic butter, but then you’d miss out on the salty, gooey appeal of artichokes alla Siciliano, stamped with the approval of a world-famous Italian crooner.
Sugarfire Smoke House, multiple locations, sugarfiresmokehouse.com
Smoky Fried Artichokes with Lemon-Garlic Aïoli
Garozzo’s Ristorante, multiple locations, 816.221.2455, garozzos.com
como
cakes
ReCIPe COuRTeSY MIKe JOHnSOn, CHeF-OWneR, SuGARFIRe SMOKe HOuSe
Serves | 4 | LeMON-gArLIC AïOLI
½ cup good-quality mayonnaise 1 tsp lemon zest 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 Tbsp lemon juice sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 Tbsp chopped parsley 1 tsp Dijon mustard
SMOKY FrIed ArTIChOKeS
15-oz can artichoke hearts, drained eggs cup milk cup panko bread crumbs cup all-purpose flour Tbsp salt Tbsp white pepper cups oil (for frying) cup shredded Parmesan
| Preparation – lemon-Garlic Aïoli | In a small bowl, combine all ingredients. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
| Preparation – smoky Fried Artichokes | Over a mix of cherry and hickory wood chips at 225°F, smoke artichokes for 1 hour; remove from heat and allow to cool. In a small bowl, whip eggs and milk together. In a separate bowl, combine bread crumbs, flour, salt and pepper. Toss cooled artichokes in egg mixture, then bread in flour mixture. In a large stock pot, heat oil to 350°F and fry artichokes until crisp. Remove from oil and sprinkle with Parmesan. Serve immediately alongside lemon-garlic aïoli. 26
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the artichoke cakes at Coley’s American Bistro in Columbia, Missouri, started with crab cakes. Chef-owner Brian Coley decided to make a vegetarian take by pan-frying a cake of marinated artichoke hearts, scallions, roasted red pepper, Dijon mustard and a little bit of mayo and serving it with a spicy Cajun remoulade. Regular bread crumbs bind the artichoke mix, and the outside is breaded with larger panko crumbs to provide additional texture. “We love to use artichokes in a lot of things; I think it’s something you don’t find on a whole lot of menus, at least around here,” Coley says. “When we get that pan-fried sear, we have a really nice, crispy crust on the outside, and the inside is a completely different texture.” Last month, Coley rolled out a chicken scallopini with pan-fried chicken, angel hair pasta, artichokes, capers, peppers, lemon juice and white wine, and the kitchen is playing around with a skewer of artichokes that are baked, lightly breaded and served with aïoli. “It’s a great summertime item to have,” Coley says. Coley’s American Bistro, 15 S. Sixth St., Downtown, Columbia, Missouri, 573.442.8887, coleysamericanbistro.com
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TKPHOTOGRAPHY64/ISTOCK
1 3 ½ ¾ ¾ 1 1 2 ½
COLUMBIA, MO. The idea for
one on one
stl
katie collier
co-owner, katie’s pizza & pasta osteria Written By Daniel Puma
photography by jonathan pollack photography
ROCK HILL, MO. Katie Collier is having a big year. not only is her rock Hill, missouri, restaurant, Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria, packed on a nightly basis, Collier is in the process of implementing a mail-order pizza kit, opening a second location in town & Country, missouri, and just released a new video series in april. this spring, she also debuted a new menu and a larger, renovated patio at her flagship location. Her commitment to offering classic italian food with a modern attitude drives her restaurant’s success.
You tested your pizza kits recently in St. Louis: What was the response? Out of the 250 [we sent out], 95 percent – maybe even more, i’m trying to be conservative here – loved it. they loved the crust, which was the most important part about the pizza kit. When fresh dough travels, there are issues. We worked for a long time trying to test that; we tweaked the dough until it traveled well and wasn’t compromised. making a fresh pizza at home is such a fun experience for people, so we simplified the whole process [by separating and measuring out all pizza ingredients]. i think what we’re going to do is offer a featured, seasonal pizza each week. Tell us about the video series you’ve been filming. two years ago we started making little films just to get content out there. the first ones were really bad – on my end, not theirs. We decided to get more focused and started the #CookingWithKatie series, where it’s a stand-and-stir in my kitchen. We’ve been doing one or two of those a month. i launched the first season of our new youtube web series, From Scratch with Katie, in collaboration with White Buffalo Film Studio [last month]. it features local celebrities, chefs, artisan recipes and culinary culture. We hope to provide a fun, entertaining and interesting show for viewers, where they can learn about food and cooking techniques while also learning more about St. louis and the people who make this city a unique and amazing place to live. We plan on filming the second season this summer. When is your Town & Country location set to open? We can’t get into the space for about six months. right now all we’re doing is getting our mise en place together: We’re getting our drawings done, getting bids from general contractors, working on sourcing pieces for design and training some new staff. it’s going to be the same concept, but we will probably set up our kitchen a little differently and possibly have a dough room where you can watch the pasta being made. How do you balance so many projects? trust me, there are very overwhelming days. Sometimes i’m like, “thank god the place isn’t opening for six months!” We’re all very passionate about this, so you don’t really look at it as work. We feed off the success and how many people we meet while trying to balance some humility in there, as well. it’s fun. i have this philosophy that you work really hard for six months, and then it’s important to take a vacation for a week. usually when i come back from those trips, i am way more useful than i would have been had i not gone. Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria, 9568 Manchester Road, Rock Hill, Missouri, 314.942.6555, katiespizzaandpasta.com
Tom, Martha, & Ben Blatchford 910-212-3005 or 573-437-2699
Makers Of Farmstead Artesian Cheese
Hosts of the Brinkman Farmstead Bed & Breakfast
CoolCowCheese.com ~ 1613 Tschappler Rd., Owensville, MO 65066
quAlify for your free! pAge food & drink Guide 2016 The Feast Food & Drink Guide will feature regional
restaurants wineries
breweries distilleries
Contact Angie Henshaw for more information. 314-475-1298 • ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com
brunch | dinner | happy hour | private events
make your reservation today 636 277 0202 | 1520 S. 5th Street, St. Charles, MO
prasinostcharles.com
Inspired Local Food Culture
may 2016
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Regional RestauRant guide 4 Hands Brewing Co. 1220 S. Eighth St. St. Louis, MO 314.436.1559 4handsbrewery.com
Beast Craft BBQ Co. 20 S. Belt W Belleville, IL 618.257.9000 beastcraftbbq.com
Cellar House Wine + Food 6039 Telegraph Road Oakville, MO 314.846.5100 bottlecellars.com
EdgeWild Bistro & Tap 12316 Olive Blvd. Creve Coeur, MO 314.548.2222 edgewildbistro.com
99 Hops House 777 Casino Center Drive Maryland Heights, MO 314.770.8100 hollywoodcasinostlouis.com
Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas 325 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.3434 bellavinowinebarstl.com
Chandler Hill Vineyards 596 Defiance Road Defiance, MO 636.798.2675 chandlerhillvineyards.com
EdgeWild Restaurant & Winery 550 Chesterfield Center Chesterfield, MO 636.532.0550 edgewildwinery.com
400 Olive 400 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.436.0002 400olive.com
Best Regards Bakery & Café 6759 W. 119th St. Overland Park, KS 913.912.7238 makethemsmile.com
Chaz on the Plaza at the Raphael Hotel 325 Ward Parkway Kansas City, MO 816.802.2152 raphaelkc.com
Edibles and Essentials 5815 Hampton Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.328.2300 ediblesandessentials.com
612 Kitchen & Cocktails 612 W. Woodbine Ave. Kirkwood, MO 314.965.2003 612kitchenandcocktails.com
Bishop’s Post 16125 Chesterfield Parkway W Chesterfield, MO 636.536.9404 bishopspost.com
Cielo Restaurant & Bar 999 N. Second St. St. Louis, MO 314.881.5759 fourseasons.com
Final Cut Steakhouse 777 Casino Center Drive Maryland Heights, MO 314.770.8100 hollywoodcasinostlouis.com
Aerie’s Winery 600 Timber Ridge Drive Grafton, IL 618.786.7477 aerieswinery.com
Bissell Mansion Restaurant & Dinner Theatre 4426 Randall Place St. Louis, MO 314.533.9830 bissellmansiontheatre.com
Citizen Kane’s Steak House 133 W. Clinton Place Kirkwood, MO 314.965.9005 citizenkanes.com
Fratelli’s Ristorante 2061 Zumbehl Road St. Charles, MO 636.949.9005 fratellisristorante.com
Amigoni Urban Winery 1505 Genessee St. #100 Kansas City, MO 913.890.3289 winery.amigoni.com
Brix on 66 at Belmont Vineyards 5870 Old Route 66 Leasburg, MO 573.885.7156 belmontvineyards.com
Cleveland-Heath 106 N. Main St. Edwardsville, IL 618.307.4830 clevelandheath.com
Gallagher’s Restaurant 114 W. Mill St. Waterloo, IL 618.939.9933 gallagherswaterloo.com
Andria’s Restaurant 6805 Old Collinsville Road O’Fallon, IL 618.632.4866 andrias.com
Café Sebastienne at Kemper Museum 4420 Warwick Blvd. Kansas City, MO 816.561.7740 kemperart.org
Corner Restaurant 4059 Broadway Kansas City, MO 816.931.4401 thecornerkc.com
Grapevine Grill at Chaumette Winery 24345 State Route WW Ste. Genevieve, MO 573.747.1000 chaumette.com
Augusta Winery 5601 High St. Augusta, MO 888.667.9463 augustawinery.com
Café Ventana 3919 W. Pine Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.531.7500 cafeventana.com
Cowan’s Restaurant 114 Elm St. Washington, MO 636.239.3213 cowansrestaurant.com
Hendricks BBQ 1200 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.8600 hendricksbbq.com
Aya Sofia 6671 Chippewa St. St. Louis, MO 314.645.9919 ayasofiacuisine.com
Castelli’s Restaurant at 255 3400 Fosterburg Road Alton, IL 618.462.4620 castellis255.com
Diablito’s 3761 Laclede Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.644.4430 diablitoscantina.com
Herbie’s Vintage 72 405 N. Euclid Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.769.9595 herbies.com
Cave Vineyard 21124 Cave Road Ste. Genevieve, MO 573.543.5248 cavevineyard.com
Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard 10035 Edg-Clif Drive Potosi, MO 573.438.4741 edg-clif.com
Julep 4141 Pennsylvania Ave. #104 Kansas City, MO 816.216.7000 julepkc.com
Balducci Vineyards 6601 Highway 94 S Augusta, MO 636.482.8466 28 balducciswineryandrestaurant.com feastmagazine.com M A Y 2 0 1 6
Kaldi’s Coffee multiple locations kaldiscoffee.com
Noboleis Vineyards & Winery 100 Hemsath Road Augusta, MO 636.482.4500 noboleisvineyards.com
Seoul Taco multiplelocations seoultaco.com
The Jacobson 2050 Central St. Kansas City, MO 816.423.2888 thejacobsonkc.com
Katie’s Pizza and Pasta 9568 Manchester Road Rock Hill, MO 314.942.6555 katiespizzaandpasta.com
Olympia Kebob House and Taverna 1543 McCausland Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.781.1299 olympiakebobandtaverna.com
Shrine Restaurant 442 S. Demazenod Drive Belleville, IL 618.394.6237 snows.org
The Preston 212 N. Kingshighway Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.633.7800 theprestonstl.com
KC Wineworks 1829 McGee St. Kansas City, MO 816.256.4608 kcwineworks.com
Pappy’s Smokehouse 3106 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.535.4340 pappyssmokehouse.com
Spin Pizza multiple locations spinpizza.com
The Terrace at French Village 6188 Highway Y French Village, MO 573.358.7177 theterrace.com
King & I 3157 S. Grand Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.771.1777 kingandistl.com
Prasino 1520 S. Fifth St. St. Charles, MO 636.277.0202 prasinostcharles.com
SqWires 1415 S. 18th St. St. Louis, MO 314.865.3522 sqwires.com
The Well 7421 Broadway St. Kansas City, MO 816.361.1700 waldowell.com
KlondikeCafé atMontelleVineyard 201 Montelle Dr. at MO Hwy 94 Augusta, MO 636.228.4464 montelle.com
Q39 1000 W. 39th St. Kansas City, MO 816.255.3753 q39kc.com
St. Louis Kolache 1300 N. Lindbergh Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.938.5656 stlkolache.com
Trattoria Giuseppe 5442 Old State Route 21 Imperial, MO 636.942.2405 trattoria-giuseppe.com
La Cosecha Coffee Roasters 7360 Manchester Road Maplewood, MO 314.440.0337 lacosechacoffee.com
Ravanelli’s Restaurant 3 American Village 26 Collinsport Drive Granite City, IL | Collinsville, IL 618.877.8000 | 618.343.9000 ravanellis.com
Stone Hill Winery 1110 Stone Hill Highway Hermann, MO 573.486.2221 stonehillwinery.com
Truffles and Butchery 9202 Clayton Road St. Louis, MO 314.567.9100 todayattruffles.com
Lews Grill and Bar 7539 Wornall Road Kansas City, MO 816.444.8080 lewsgrillandbar.com
Retreat Gastropub 6 N Sarah St. St. Louis, MO 314.261.4497 retreatgastropub.com
Sugar Creek Winery 125 Boone County Lane Defiance, MO 636.987.2400 sugarcreekwines.com
Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. 3229 Washington Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.222.0143 urbanchestnut.com
Lucky Brewgrille 5401 Johnson Drive Mission, KS 913.403.8571 luckybrewgrille.com
Röbller Vineyard & Winery 275 Robller Vineyard Road New Haven, MO 573.237.3986 robllerwines.com
Sugarfire Smoke House multiple locations sugarfiresmokehouse.com
Vox Vineyards 19310 NW Farley Hampton Road #3 Kansas City, MO 816.354.4903 voxvineyards.com
Mai Lee 8396 Musick Memorial Drive Brentwood, MO 314.645.2835 maileestl.com
Sanctuaria 4198 Manchester Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.535.9700 sanctuariastl.com
Summit Grill & Bar 4835 NE Lakewood Way Lees Summit, MO 816.795.7677 summitgrillandbar.com
Weber Grill 1147 St. Louis Galleria St. Louis, MO 314.930.3838 webergrillrestaurant.com
Nathalie’s 4356 Lindell Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.533.1580 natahliesstl.com
Schlafly Tap Room and Schlafly Bottleworks multiple locations schlafly.com
Teaspoons Café 2125 S. State Route 157 Edwardsville, IL 618.655.9595 teaspoonscafe.com
Wild Sun Winery 4830 Pioneer Road Hillsboro, MO 636.797.8686 wildsunwinery.com
key:
Winery
Illinois Missouri
St. Louis Kansas City
St. Charles County Columbia Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2016
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Upcoming Events LIVE MUSIC - MAY - OCTOBER KENTUCKY DERBY DAY - MAY 7 MAIFEST - MAY 21 & 22 GRAPES TO GLASS - JUNE 4 RIEDEL TASTING - JUNE 11 SHRIMP BOIL - JUNE 25 CAJUN CONCERT - JULY 9 FARM TO TABLE - JULY 29 SCAVENGER HUNT - AUGUST 6 GRAPES TO GLASS - AUGUST 13 HARVEST FESTIVAL - SEPTEMBER 3 GRAPES TO GLASS - SEPTEMBER 10 OKTOBERFEST - ALL OCT. WEEKENDS
573.486.3479
1110 Stone Hill Highway • Hermann, MO 65041 800.909.9463 • stonehillwinery.com 30
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2016
where we’re drinking make a rum for it on p. 35 PHOTOGRAPHy by sTARbOARd & PORT cReATive
trending now: Sparkling roSé
on trend
Written by nancy StileS PhotograPhy by jonathan gayman
Sparkling rosé is trending across the country, and a handful of local winemakers are producing varieties that are anything but sticky-sweet. The crisp, bubbly wines are a refreshing choice for spring and pair well with a range of dishes, from rich pork to delicate seafood.
blush St. JaMeS, Mo. Sparkling blush has been part of St. James Winery’s portfolio for about 30 years – even longer than veteran winemaker andrew meggitt has been on board. although he doesn’t make much of it compared to St. james’ other offerings, meggitt says the sparkling blush has a pretty loyal following. “you’re dealing with a product that is in the right place at the right time for the people [in this area],” he says. “it smells absolutely delightful – like cotton candy and candy apples.” the wine, made of mostly catawba grapes, is carbonated in the tank before bottling and is fairly sweet, with 6 percent residual sugar. “oddly enough, it goes really well with pulled pork and barbecued meats,” meggitt says. “i also find it goes well with spicy food, particularly indian and thai.” he’s also working on a champagne-style brut rosé that will likely be released in late 2017. St. james has been perfecting this drier sparkling wine for a few years; this is the first vintage the team has been happy with. the brut rosé is made with norton and uses méthode champenoise for carbonation; there are two other bruts being made with either Vignoles or cayuga White grapes. “the ones we’ve done have a really pretty aroma – they smell like strawberries and raspberries on the nose,” he says. “We haven’t released the [previous] ones because we [didn’t think they were] good enough, and that’s how we operate.”
St. James Winery, 540 State Route B, St. James, Missouri, 800.280.9463, stjameswinery.com
pink moscato
32
brut rosÉ
Ste. geneVieVe, Mo. Crown Valley Winery grows about 9 acres
HerMann, Mo. at Stone Hill Winery in hermann, missouri,
of Valvin muscat, a hybrid grape, at its vineyard in Ste. genevieve, missouri. its resulting sparkling pink moscato clocks in at about 6 percent residual sugar (whereas its white moscato is at 10 percent), making it a more food-friendly, semisweet sparkling wine. the bubbles are introduced using the Charmat method: the wine is put in a pressure tank, which causes a natural, secondary fermentation resulting in a sparkling wine. “our pink moscato is really good as a summertime sparkling rosé style; we do a lot of pairings with sorbets, fresh fruits, parfaits,” says director of operations bryan Siddle, who notes that it’s one of crown Valley’s best-sellers, next to its blackberry wine. “People tend to lean against any pink, thinking it’s more of a very sweet White Zinfandel style, but there are some amazing rosés out there – sparkling or nonsparkling – that i enjoy for everyday, especially in the summertime.” Siddle also suggests trying crown Valley’s pink moscato in a refreshing summer sangria, perhaps at its new branson, missouri, outpost, which opened in late april.
the brut rosé gets its bubbles from the traditional méthode champenoise: a mix of Vidal blanc and chambourcin grapes are aged at least three years in the bottle for natural fermentation, just like true French champagnes. “Vidal has proven to be an excellent variety in missouri for bottle-fermenting sparkling wines because it isn’t something that’s excessively varietal,” says Stone hill senior winemaker Dave johnson. “you’re really looking more for the bottle-fermented, sur lie, aged character. the inclusion of the chambourcin has this kind of cherry fruit note to it that we think really gives it a delightful character.” at just 0.9 percent residual sugar, johnson says it’s an ideal wine for a nice evening on the deck or paired with lighter foods like smoked pork chops. “We do give it a rather lengthy time aging on the yeast in the bottle before disgorging, which is probably a little unusual in north america, but we like it like that,” he says. “What you’re getting is a French champagne-style of sparkling rosé at a much more reasonable price.”
Crown Valley Winery, 23589 State Route WW, Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, 866.207.9463, crownvalleywinery.com
Stone Hill Winery, 1110 Stone Hill Highway, Hermann, Missouri, 573.486.2221, stonehillwinery.com
feastmagazine.com
m a y 2016
one on one
Ks
dennis and cindy reynolds owners, somerset ridge vineyard & winery Written by ettie berneking
PAOLA, KS.
photography by LaNDoN VoNDErSChMIDt
Somerset Ridge Vineyard & Winery started as a hobby for owners Dennis and Cindy reynolds. but like so many hobbies, this one took on a life of its own. After planting their first grapes in 1998 and harvesting and bottling their first vintage in 2001, the reynolds now produce a variety of wines including Chardonel, traminette, Cabernet Franc and norton. the winery also makes Citron, a fruit-forward wine inspired by limoncello, a traditional italian lemon liqueur. Somerset’s is a blend of white dessert wine, brandy and organic lemons. Why did you decide to start a vineyard? After we got married, we developed a joint love of wine and traveled around a lot. When the kids were still small, we packed them up and went to europe and traveled the wineries of Alsace, in southern France. that was really inspiring. –Dennis Reynolds you can talk about what inspired you to start, but sometimes it’s about what inspires you to keep going. both of our kids are in or recently graduated from programs at the University of California, Davis at the robert Mondavi institute for Wine and Food Science. i mean, talk about having this additional boost of energy and knowledge! –Cindy Reynolds Tell us about Citron. Our Citron is inspired by limoncello; true limoncello is made with grain alcohol. instead, we experimented with white dessert wine, infused lemon and brandy made from our grapes. –D.R. the tart and the sweet are so perfectly balanced. it makes a great Lemondrop Martini and is fantastic to top a glass of sparkling wine or Champagne. [On the weekends,] we make a Citron brioche. you soak golden raisins, tart red cherries, black currants and candied ginger in the Citron and weave it through the brioche dough. –C.R. You must have gone through several taste tests to get the right blend. it’s a tough job, and someone has to do it! Wine is delicate, and it doesn’t always blend with other things. in fact, the blend will change from year to year, so we work with what we have. –D.R. Sometimes when you drink a homemade limoncello, it’s kind of cloudy and has a Sunkist lemon concentrate [flavor] and tons of sugar – even that’s not terrible. –C.R. Looking back, did you ever think your hobby would take off like this? We used to sail before we had a winery, so we like to say having a vineyard in the Midwest is like learning to sail on Midwest lakes: it’s 10 times harder. –D.R. it never occurred to me that we would make so many wines. We’re really focused on sustainable agriculture so we produce wines from grapes that grow in kansas naturally. Watching the industry grow and seeing how people are making good use of the land is a really rewarding experience. –C.R. Somerset Ridge Vineyard & Winery, 29725 Somerset Road, Paola, Kansas, 913.963.8145, somersetridge.com
Inspired Local Food Culture
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where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, restaurants, breweries, wineries and coffee shops.
krokstrom klubb & market written by Jenny vergara
KANSAS CITY. the scandinavian-inspired
krokstom klubb & market opened in February and has already developed a lively bar program thanks to co-owner and general manager Josh rogers. he has worked to develop a list of scandinavian liquors, cocktails and meads to complement the food on chef-owner Katee mclean’s seafood- and vegetable-focused menu. aquavit, a scandinavian liquor distilled from grain or potatoes and usually flavored with caraway, cardamom and star anise, is infused in-house with seeds, spices and fruits. order a glass straight or in a flight with three or six other popular scandinavian or housemade options. you can also sip the spirit in cocktails like the nordic Flip, with aquavit, honey syrup, lemon and egg white. try the stockholm syndrome, a house
IL
version of an old Fashioned with J. rieger & co. Kansas city whiskey and cloudberry syrup, or the swedish 22, rogers’ take on a French 75 that swaps aquavit for gin. mead, another popular drink in scandinavia, shows up on tap and in cans from buffalo, missouri’s leaky roof meadery. ice wine from stone hill winery and augusta winery and local beer are also on offer, as is a rotation of canned and bottled scandinavian beers. after you’ve finished a meal of smørrebrød – toast made with various toppings – or swedish meatball sliders, try the swedish punch, a take on the rum- and aquavit-based concoction made with citrus, black tea-infused simple syrup and soda. krokstrom klubb & market, 3601 broadway blvd., kansas city, missouri, 816.599.7531, klubbkrokstrom.com
KC
source juicery written by HeatHer riske
feastmagazine.com
pHotograpHy by jacklyn meyer
EDWARDSVILLE, IL. three little words guide the philosophy of Source Juicery: happy, healthy and whole. michelle motley, lisa Hudson and chef chrissy stevens opened the small edwardsville, illinois, shop in march, determined to make it easy to eat healthy in a hurry. the café is simple and sleek with a black-and-white color palette – a stark contrast to the bright and bold lineup of raw cold-pressed juices and all-natural smoothies behind the bar. the most popular juice, sweet green, features spinach, cucumber, pear, pineapple and lime. For something a bit more filling, choose from smoothies including peaches ‘n cream and early bird, which provides an energy jolt from a shot of cold-brew coffee from nearby goshen coffee co.
photography by landon vonderschmidt
34
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a small food menu focuses on nourishing, clean dishes, including zucchini noodles with romesco; a quinoa bowl with kale, seasonal roasted vegetables, pepitas and curried sweet potatoes; nearby cleveland-Heath’s much-loved kale salad; as well as a kids’ menu of juices and snacks. power bites have already proved to be the shop’s most popular snack, available in flavors like chocolate-chia and thai-spiced peanut. Source Juicery, 220 N. Main St., Edwardsville, Illinois, 618.650.9080, sourcejuicery.com m a y 2016
Join us for dinner at our house Don’t drink coffee, enjoy it!
visit our
coffee Bar and roastery oastery
7360 Manchester Rd. Maplewood, MO
Mon-Sat 5p-10p | O’Fallon, IL 618.632.4866 | Andrias.com
Buy Online at LaCosechaCoffee.com
A portion of every purchase is donated to St. Louis non profit organizations.
mo
the golden girl rum club written by ren bishop
|
photography by starboard & port creative
SPRINGFIELD, MO. serving up a bit of paradise, The Golden Girl Rum Club on springfield,
Missouri’s park central square offers fresh specialty cocktails and premium rums. classic drinks like the Manhattan are reimagined with rum and citrus undertones. the yours & Mai tai, made with several rums, is one of co-owner rogan howitt’s favorite menu items thanks to his housemade pistachio-orgeat and caramelized pineapple syrups. howitt developed gg’s menu with his brother and co-owner, Joshua widner, who also co-owns springfield cocktail bar scotch & soda. the brothers developed the concept for the rum bar and presented it to emma chapman, co-owner of the popular blog and women’s lifestyle company, a beautiful Mess, and her husband, trey george, who invested in the tropical retreat. the rum bar has a polished yet playful party vibe. drinks are served with whimsical, fun garnishes in tiki glassware like ceramic skull heads, coconuts and buddhas, or, for an upcharge, in a frozen pineapple. Favorites like the ballad of Jed clampett – plantation 3 star rum, house falernum, lime and blackstrap simple syrup – pair well with gg’s signature Korean street ribs. the bar will be opening its patio this month, too, so you can soak up the sun while sipping tropical tipples.
Cherokee Street LOVE BANK PARK
The Golden Girl Rum Club, 137 Park Central Square, Springfield, Missouri, 417.425.5162, thegoldengirl.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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35
the mix
spritz & spratz No. 2
Spritzes and spritzers are ideal warm-weather drinks – light, refreshing and bubbly. but the two terms are not synonymous: a spritzer is a mix of wine and sparkling water, whereas a spritz is a mix of sparkling wine, a bitter liqueur and sparkling water (club soda or mineral water) in a 3-2-1 ratio. Spritz comes from the german word meaning “splash” or “injection” – here, adding or injecting a splash of soda water to an alcoholic beverage. it reportedly stems from the
Story and recipeS by Matt Seiter photography by Jonathan gayMan
19th-century austro-hungarians who occupied northern italy; their “riesling-weaned palates,” as the new book Spritz by talia baiocchi and Leslie pariseau puts it, needed a splash of carbonated water in order to drink the region’s strong wines. the italians added bitter liqueur (like aperol or campari) in the 1920s and prosecco in the 1990s: thus, the modern spritz was born. here, we present the traditional recipes for both drinks and one variation incorporating the two with a twist.
Matt Seiter is co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild (USBG)’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program, author of the dive bar of cocktail bars, bartender at BC’s Kitchen, and a bar and restaurant consultant.
Spritzer serves | 1 |
4 oz red or white wine 4 oz sparkling water (club soda or carbonated mineral water) ice (optional) lemon or orange wedge (for garnish)
| Preparation | in a wine glass, combine all ingredients with or without ice. garnish with a citrus wedge. Serve.
Spritz serves | 1 |
3 oz prosecco 2 oz Italian liqueur (aperol, amaro Montenegro or Cynar) 1 oz club soda orange or lemon peel (for garnish)
| Preparation | in a collins glass, combine all ingredients except garnish over ice. Stir to incorporate and garnish with citrus peel. Serve.
Spritz & Spratz Nº. 2 serves | 1 |
2 4 2 3
sprigs fresh tarragon sprigs fresh thyme oz Amaro Montenegro oz prosecco ice 1 oz club soda orange slice, cut into a half-moon (for garnish)
| Preparation | in a wine glass, gently muddle herbs. add amaro Montenegro and prosecco and stir for a few seconds. add ice, top with club soda and stir once more. garnish with orange slice. Serve.
on the shelf : MAY picks
one on one
WINE
mo
gus schlottach
stone pillar vineyarD & Winery’s 2014 Dry riesling
director of operations, white mule winery WRitten By nanCy StileS
written by Hilary HeDgeS
OWENSVILLE, MO. Gus Schlottach never set out to be a winemaker. after
provenAnce: olathe, Kansas pAirings: Spicy stir-fry • Fish tacos • Chicken piccata
graduating college in 2011, he returned to his family’s cattle farm, where his parents were making wines from vineyards first planted when he was in high school. He quickly recognized the importance of wineries in the area and learned the ropes from White Mule Winery’s then-winemaker, larry Shoemaker, who has also made wine for adam Puchta Winery in Hermann, Missouri. On any given day, you can find Schlottach making wine, hosting wine tastings, running cattle with his brother or selling property around Gasconade County. you can buy White Mule Winery wines at around 40 retail locations in Missouri; at the tasting room in Owensville, Missouri; or through its website.
george Hoff, winemaker at Stone Pillar Vineyard & Winery in olathe, Kansas, was inspired to make a dry riesling like those produced in the Finger lakes region of new york. the wine is crisp and bright with aromas of pear and honey, making it a great choice for sipping on the patio. Flavors of green apple greet you at the front while notes of pear and lime zest linger on the finish. it’s available at Stone Pillar’s tasting room in olathe. Stone Pillar Vineyard & Winery, 913.839.2185, stonepillarvineyard.com
How did you get into winemaking? i graduated from the University of Missouri with a degree in agriculture. i came back [home], and larry was there helping us make [wine], and he just basically taught me the ropes. i just asked him a lot of questions. i picked it up pretty quick, i guess. the original direction was [to] have a little tasting room and the bed-and-breakfast downstairs, and it really started to take off. i saw the opportunity and the need for small businesses in the area and wineries in general, and the public really seemed to grab hold – and they haven’t let us go, thank goodness. How long has your family been farming in Owensville? Our family farm is actually right across the road from the winery, which was an old cattle barn, and i’m the fifth generation. We have probably about 100 mama cows that Dad runs. My brother and i do this replacement-heifer program [called G&W Cattle Co.] – we buy heifers, get ‘em [artificially inseminated] and sell them bred. How do you balance that with your work at White Mule Winery? there’s always something different to do every day, and that’s another reason i love it. i could be bottling wine one day and working cows the next, or cooking steaks on Friday nights. i also recently got into real estate because there are a lot of people who come through the winery and love the area and would love to have a place out here. Tell us about your wines. We’ve got anything from a dry red to a semisweet white. For dry, we have Chardonel, Vidal [Blanc] and norton, [among others], then for semisweet we have the Double tree White, which is a blend of traminette and Vignoles, and Double tree Red, which is a rosé blend. a doubletree is what they use to hook up two mules. We have a dessert wine that we call Mule Shine that’s actually a norton Port. it’s a 4-year-old norton with some high-proof brandy, sweetened up [with] lots of oak in it. it’s a very good after-dinner wine. What sets White Mule apart from other local wineries? We’ll do wood-fired steaks on Missouri wood from the farm on Friday nights, and people just love it. a high school buddy of my dad’s and a high school buddy of mine, a father-son team, come cook steaks with me. that’s been going over amazingly well. i think the biggest thing that sets us apart is our customer service and how people feel when they’re here. We do have good wine – we have great wine – and it’s just making people feel like they’re part of the family when they come out to the winery.
Hilary Hedges is a former newsie whose passion for wine led her out of the newsroom and into the cellar. She is currently the director of sales and marketing and assistant winemaker at Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City’s West Bottoms.
BEER
Crane BreWing’s saison written by branDon niCKelSon
stYle: belgian Farmhouse Saison (6.8% abV) pAirings: roasted meats, cheeses such as aged chèvre and fontina,
and light desserts like lemon-ginger sorbet
Hailing from belgium, a saison is a true rustic delight. Created for light summertime drinking, saisons are pale, light-bodied and sometimes slightly peppery. Crane Brewing gives us this refreshing and crisp brew from raytown, Missouri, just outside of Kansas City. its saison is a bold representation of the classic belgian style, showing strong flavor characteristics coupled with an enjoyably light mouthfeel. this beer was truly made for a warm summer day. Crane Brewing, 816.743.4132, cranebrewing.com Brothers Brandon and Ryan Nickelson are available to help with beer picks and pairing recommendations at their store, Craft Beer Cellar, the only all-craft beer shop in the St. Louis area. Craft Beer Cellar is located at 8113 Maryland Ave. in Clayton, Missouri. To learn more, call 314.222.2444 or visit craftbeercellar.com/clayton.
SPIRIT
Copper run Distillery’s overproof White rum written by Matt Sorrell
Copper Run Distillery is the first legal distillery to open in the ozark Mountains since the end of Prohibition. it makes moonshines, small-batch whiskey and spiced rum in addition to this overproof rum, which won a gold medal in best of Category at the american Distilling institute’s ninth-annual Spirit Competition last year. Made from brown sugar and blackstrap molasses, the rum is distilled twice, resulting in tropical fruit on the nose and a big, full-bodied feel. at 120 proof, it also has quite the kick. Find it at select Missouri retailers in St. louis, Springfield, branson and ozark. Copper Run Distillery, 417.587.3456, copperrundistillery.com When he’s not writing, Matt Sorrell can be found slinging drinks at Planter’s House in St. Louis’ Lafayette Square or bartending at events around town with his wife, Beth, for their company, Cocktails Are Go.
PHotograPHy by HannaH FolDy
provenAnce: walnut Shade, Missouri (60% abV) trY it: Sub this rum for cachaça in a Caipirinha.
White Mule Winery, 2087 U.S. Highway 50, Owensville, Missouri, 573.764.4800, whitemulewinery.com
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AWARD-WINNING WINES
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Celebrate Mother’s Day at Lucky Brewgrille Sunday May 8th Brunch served 9am - 2pm $4 Lucky’s Spicy Bloody Marys and $4 Mimosas
Make your reservation today! 38
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5401 Johnson Drive, Mission, KS 66205 913-403-8571, www.luckybrewgrille.com
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Varietal Specific Glasses made for missouri wines Riedel, the Wine Glass Company, held wine glass workshops with Missouri’s renowned vintners. Together, they
fine rim
Laser cut, polished rim essential to direct the flow of wine to the correct part of the tongue.
fine CrYstal Colourless and transparent, lead-free fine crystal ensures perfect clarity, essential to see the exact colour.
created one of the best varietal specific glasses for Norton and Vignoles. When you visit Missouri wine country and the local wineries, you can taste and see how these custom glasses help deliver the flavors the winemakers have hand-crafted and want you to experience. When you’re sampling Norton and Vignoles at these fine wineries, you’ll discover the difference it makes when drinking from the appropriate glass.
GraPe Varietal sPeCifiC Bowl
Wine friendly bowl shape enables the wine to develop its tastes and aromas. Grape varietal specific stemware features finely-tuned glass bowls consisting of 3 variables: shape, size and rim diameter. Grape varietal specific stemware has to translate the “message“ of wine to the human senses.
sensorY workshoP
drink from a riedel at these missouri wineries Augusta Winery Chandler Hill Vineyards Montelle Winery Mount Pleasant Estates Noboleis Vineyards Yellow Farm House Vineyard & Winery
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Edgewild Restaurant & Winery Adam Puchta Winery Hermannhof Vineyards Stone Hill Winery St. James Winery Les Bourgeois Vineyards
All our glasses are developed in sensory workshops.
seamless stem
Smooth, elegant and seamless, the stem has a premium feel to the touch.
loGo
This Riedel signature trademark helps our customers to distinguish immediately between hand-made products and those made by machine. Our machine-made products carry this Riedel trademark.
Visit www.riedel.com for more information
Base Greater stability and breakage resistant
one on one
unwine-d in style on p. 44 PHOTOGRAPHy by cHeRyl wAlleR
local chef kitchen
shop here
stl
Story and photography by Mabel Suen
BALLWIN, Mo. at Local Chef Kitchen in ballwin, Missouri, owner rob
uyemura highlights fresh, sustainable food in everything from his CSa boxes and mini-market offerings to the quick-service american classics he cooks up in the kitchen, which opened in March. In 2012, as part of his CSa, uyemura partnered with one of his favorite area purveyors, benne’s best Meat, to grow produce on an acre of land, as well as in a high tunnel – a better environment with more space than his shady backyard. “When you work in a kitchen 60 to 70 hours a week, you need a little stress relief,” uyemura says. “at benne’s, cows, pigs and chickens are everywhere – it’s a little oasis in West County. We grow all kinds of heirloom cucumbers, tomatoes, hot chiles, peppers, kale and carrots, plus probably 40 other things. We’ll sell them at local Chef Kitchen, use them every day in our cooking and include them in our CSa box.” uyemura’s initial harvest from the high tunnel early this month will yield baby lettuce, spinach, spicy mustard greens, radishes, peas and more – try the organic greens for a true taste of spring. the coolers in the restaurant’s market are stocked with an array of locally procured grab-and-go goods including whole free-range chickens from benne’s best Meat, wagyu beef from neuner Farms, headcheese from the Farm at Kraut run and yogurt from Windcrest dairy. another popular vendor is goatsbeard Farm, an 80-acre family farm located in harrisburg, Missouri. a herd of 50 goats produces the milk for its distinctive fresh and aged cheeses, including a piquant Moniteau blue and the mild taum Sauk, similar to a gruyère. For a sweet bite to-go, pastry chef Cheryl herbert’s rustic desserts use as many local components as possible. her cream-cheese-glazed white chocolate-carrot mini bundt cake, for instance, features thies Farm and greenhouses’ carrots, and her decadent bourbon-spiked pie is proudly studded with Missouri pecans. “We’re looking forward to telling the story of local Chef, where it comes from and why we’re doing it,” uyemura says. “It’s simply great local food that we care about.” Local Chef Kitchen, 15270 Manchester Road #130, Ballwin, Missouri, 636.220.3212, facebook.com/localchefstl
ArtIsAN product
KC
amigoni urban winery’s vino ketchup wRitten By DanieL PuMa
photography by hIlary hedgeS
KANSAS CITY. Looking for a way to get more wine into your life? Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City has your fix with wine-infused Vino Ketchup. Combining Cabernet Sauvignon with tomatoes, the ketchup is alcohol-free but holds a distinct red-wine flavor. the ketchup was developed with local manufacturer Original Juan and was inspired by wine-based sauce reductions. Find Vino Ketchup around the Kansas City area at amigoni urban winery, urban Provisions General Store, the Better Cheddar, the Sundry and Season + Square.
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Amigoni Urban Winery, 1505 Genessee St. #100, West Bottoms, Kansas City, Missouri, 913.890.3289, winery.amigoni.com
m a y 2016
get this gadget
coravin written by nancy StileS
For more information on the Coravin, visit coravin.com.
Vietnamese & Chinese Restaurant
ating r b e Cel
ss in Busine
A "FEAST" Favorite!
Thank You all Local Area Chefs for Making Us #1 Located in the Meridian Shopping Center at Hanley & Eager Roads behind the Best Buy.
FREE PARKING IN THE METRO LINK GARAGE Tu-Th: 11am-9pm • Fr-Su 11am-10pm 8396 Musick Memorial Dr. • 314.645.2835 www.MaiLeeSTL.com
Over 75 Years
Over 300 Craft Beers Large Wine Shop Huge Whiskey, Bourbon & Scotch Selection
Dean’s Liquor 210 West Main St. | Collinsville, IL 618-344-4930 | deansliquor.com
cellar house Photo courteSy coravin
Many restaurants are now using the coravin to offer single glasses of wines that used to be sold only by the bottle. the device inserts a needle through the wine’s cork and allows you to pour a glass; once the needle is removed, the cork reforms a natural, airtight seal. it’s perfect for sampling wines to hone your palate, breaking out a valuable bottle for just one glass or simply saving some for later. the coravin works on any bottle with a natural cork.
tue-thur. 4pm-12am fri. 4pm-1:30am sat. 2pm-1:30am
wine
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small plates
6039 Telegraph Road Oakville, Missouri www.bottlecellars.com
epicureanist wine bottle & glass holding stakes
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desserts
314 - 846 - 5100
written by nancy StileS
For more information on the bottle and glass stakes, visit epicureanist.com.
Photo courteSy ePicureaniSt
May is the perfect time for a picnic – just grab your favorite bottle of wine and some cheese. nestled in stainless steel spiraling metal, these wine bottle and glass holding stakes make sure your glasses and bottle don’t tip and spill in the grass, ideal for outdoor concerts, games or backyard parties.
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Inspired Local Food Culture
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one on one
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jackie goettelmann co-owner, milk and honey
Written by Valeria turturro Klamm PhotograPhy by cheryl Waller
WILDWOOD, MO. in late 2014, Milk and Honey introduced a fresh and multifaceted concept in Wildwood, missouri – a décor, accessories, home, kitchen and gift boutique with a bar in the middle. “We wanted a way to be different, and i wanted a way to get my husband to want to spend time at the store,” jokes co-owner Jackie goettelmann, who opened the shop with her husband, eric, shortly after they tied the knot. although he’s a full-time accountant, eric also serves drinks behind the bar at milk and honey most weekends, while Jackie manages the boutique, including organizing events and wine tastings, and markets the business. “explaining it to people was strange,” she says. “a lot of people were against the idea of mixing the two. one of the reasons we chose Wildwood was the synergy of all the stores.”
Tell us about your food and drink selection. the selections rotate all the time. our beers include local, domestic and international bottled and draft varieties – nearly 40 at any time. We have a by-the-glass wine menu that features 10 red and white customer favorites. We also have a premium wine menu of 15 to 20 wines that we serve by the glass using a tool called the coravin, which pushes a needle through the bottle’s cork and accesses the wine without having to open the bottle. once the needle is removed, the cork reseals itself. We also sell local honey, and last month we added paninis, pizzas and small plates from neighboring benedetto’s on main. What types of events do you host at the shop? monday through Wednesday we close at 6pm for private events. We’ve hosted everything from baby showers, graduation parties and retirement parties to red-carpet-themed birthday parties and fundraisers. We also recently did a chocolate-and-wine pairing event with bissinger’s [handcrafted chocolatier]. the first Wednesday of every month, our wine club members can come in and pick up their wines and use their in-store discount. How do you choose the products on offer in the boutique? to be honest, i pick stuff i love. i love things that are dual-purpose, beautiful and functional. We try to look for products that are made locally or in the u.S. one of the biggest criteria is if i haven’t seen it somewhere else. What’s the most challenging part of running your own business? Wearing so many hats. i make every single decision – hiring, management, the point-of-sale system, marketing; it’s a lot. What’s the most rewarding part? Working at a large corporation before, when customers had concerns, i felt like i couldn’t fix them like i wanted to. here, i can address things right away. People usually leave in a better mood than when they came in. Milk and Honey, 101 Plaza Drive, Wildwood, Missouri, 636.579.0915, milkandhoneystore.com
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culinary library
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Afternoon teA At Home written by Daniel Puma
afternoon tea is not a tradition many follow in america. instead of taking a break in the middle of the day to relax, people are on the go, running from one errand to the next. in Afternoon Tea at Home, author will torrent aims to change preconceived notions about the practice. He admits the quintessentially british ritual is indulgent – and that’s what makes it great. in the book, he divides the feast into sandwiches, “savouries,” scones, cakes, jams, jellies and pâtisserie. From lime and yuzu curd to smoked-salmon sandwiches, Viennese whirls and crab-mayonnaise éclairs, torrent guides readers through the balance of decadence, indulgence and elegance to craft the perfect afternoon tea. by Will Torrent rylandpeters.com
Inspired Local Food Culture
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ShOP hERE
KC
willow spring mercantile WrITTEn By JEnny VErgara
The Mercantile also features daily tastings, a cellar where the Bowmans often host local wine and beer dinners, and live music on weekends. Don’t miss the on-site Basement Bistro, which serves lunch (except Mondays, when The Mercantile is closed) from a menu of sandwiches, flatbreads, wraps and more sold to-go or with a glass of local wine or beer.
PHoTograPHy By anna PETroW
EXCELSIOR SPRINGS, MO. Make the scenic 40-minute drive north on Interstate 35 from Kansas City to Excelsior Springs, Missouri, and you’ll discover one of the largest selections of Missouri wine in the state at Willow Spring Mercantile. Jim and Daphne Bowman opened the shop, lovingly known as The Mercantile, 10 years ago in the downtown district. It now carries more than 300 Missouri wines, plus selections from Missouri breweries and distilleries including Mother’s Brewing Co., 4 Hands Brewing Co., Union Horse Distillery and Defiance Whiskey.
Willow Spring Mercantile, 249 E. Broadway Ave., Excelsior Springs, Missouri, 816.630.7467, shopthemercantile.com
aRtISaN PROduCt
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bissinger’s blue cheese wine grapes WrittEn By DAniEl PuMA
st. louis. Bissinger’s Handcrafted Chocolatier makes a bevy of
chocolate-covered fruits at its production facility in Downtown St. louis, ouis, but perhaps none are as striking as its Blue Cheese Wine Grapes. Shiraz-infused California Muscat grapes are enrobed in a layer of Point reyes Farmstead Cheese Co.’s Original Blue cheese and encased in a shell of the confectioner’s signature 60 percent chocolate. the blue cheese is not overpowering, instead acting as a salty accent with a twinge of funk. the dark-chocolate shell is the most pronounced flavor, while the wine grapes deliver a slight tartness, perfect for pairing with a jammy norton. Bissinger’s Handcrafted Chocolatier, 314.615.2436, bissingers.com
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PHoTograPHy y By JaCKlyn MEyEr feastmagazine.com
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Inspired Local Food Culture
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WE ARE MORE THAN bRick & sTONE
come for the views, stay for the AwArd winning wines
Live music every weekend
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The Greater Kansas City Restaurant Association traces itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s origins to 1916 when three visionary restauranteurs began meeting to exchange ideas and discuss common issues. Their efforts lead to the establishment of the National Restaurant Association. One hundred years later, the Greater Kansas City Restaurant Association is still going strong. Learn more about this amazing story at: http://morestaurants.org/gkcra-centennial-anniversary/
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menu options
roast and toast on p. 56 photography by jonathan gayman
healthy appetite
´ Smoothie Strawberry-roSe
Green juice cocktails are trending and for good reason: They make us feel like we’re pumping our bodies with loads of chlorophyll to balance out the alcohol. We drink them to feel healthier – and they’re pretty tasty, too. If green juice cocktails exist, then wine smoothies should definitely be a thing. They’re packed with plant-based protein and healthy fats to sustain your energy and keep you full, which helps you avoid drinking on an empty
stomach. Loaded with antioxidants, vitamins and minerals, this smoothie helps ward off nasty hangovers, as well. Part wine slushy, part superfood smoothie and part protein-packed snack, this drink would make the perfect addition to a weekend brunch, garden party or girls’ night in. The recipe is quite versatile: substitute fresh raspberries or blueberries for strawberries, and Pinot Grigio, Riesling or local Vignoles for dry or sweet rosé.
Sherrie Castellano is a health coach, photographer and private chef based in St. Louis. She writes and photographs the seasonally inspired vegetarian and gluten-free food blog With Food + Love. She has contributed work to Driftless Magazine, Vegetarian Times, Go Gluten-Free Magazine, Food52 and Urban Outfitters, among others. You can find her hanging with her aviation-enthusiast husband sipping Earl Grey tea, green juice and/or bourbon.
sToRy, RecIPe anD PhoToGRaPhy by sheRRIe casTeLLano
Strawberry-Rosé Smoothie Serves | 2 | 2 1 1 3 1 1
cups fresh destemmed strawberries ripe banana cup dry or sweet rosé Tbsp chia or flax seeds Tbsp honey Tbsp fresh lemon juice handful ice sprig fresh mint (for garnish)
| Preparation | In a blender, combine all ingredients except mint and blend until smooth. Garnish with mint and serve cold.
First in Missouri Wine Country
Hotel Valentin Imperial Maya is the new definition of paradise, located just 25 minutes from Cancun International Airport in Riviera Maya. Set amid lavish gardens on a half-mile-long stretch of white sand beach, this magnificent award-winning all-inclusive resort boasts one of the largest swimming pools in México. Enjoy gastronomic experiences in a modern and trendy atmosphere with dishes crafted by internationally renowned chefs. Start your day with a tasty breakfast or lunch in the beachfront Mar & Tierra, or the main buffet restaurant serving abundant international specialties. Seven à la carte restaurants include Italian, French, Japanese, Indonesian, Mexican, Steak House, and Seafood Grill. Reservations are not required. Eleven bars including two swim-up bars serve unlimited tropical concoctions and top shelf liquor. Enjoy pool and beach wait service, as well 24-hour room service. More than a dinner–a unique dining experience! The Corner restaurant was created to offer you the most delectable culinary trends. Elegant and comfortable and combined with attentiveness in service, this restaurant offers the perfect setting for an unforgetable evening.
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Located just 30 minutes west of St. Louis in the heart of Missouri’s beloved Wine Country, Chandler Hill boasts award-winning wines, sophisticated fare, exemplary service, a stunning setting and picturesque views from its 4,500-square-foot terrace. Enjoy incredible wines and an unforgettable experience at the most exquisite winery in the region. egion.
AWARD-WINNING WINESS 42-ACRE 42-ACRE ESTATE E E HILL HIL HILLTOP TASTING ROOM UPSCALE AMERICANN CUISINE PRIVATE EVENTS SINE LIVE IVE MU MUSIC SIC PRIV
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636 636.798.CORK MAY 2016
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mystery shopper
Verjus
story and recipe by shannon Weber photography by jonathan gayman
ever eaten one of the tiny, underripe grapes in a bunch just for that sour zing? yeah… that. What Is It?
Verjus is a derivative of the wine-making process, made with young grapes plucked just as they begin to ripen to thin out the vines, that are then pressed. the result is a half-sweet, half-sour concoction with surprising depth. once a staple in medieval kitchens, verjus was also an essential ingredient in traditional dijon mustard, but it fell out of favor as lemons and flavored vinegars became widely available throughout europe. also known as verjuice, it’s made a comeback recently thanks to winemakers singing its (well-deserved) praises. simply put, it’s a high-acid, low-sugar ingredient that makes everything you use it in just a little bit magical, but you have to taste it to really understand it. comparing it to vinegar or wine is close, but there’s a nuance to verjus that nearly defies explanation. What Do I Do WIth It?
What can’t you do with it is the better question; verjus is one of those rare and precious ingredients that makes nearly everything better without stealing the spotlight from other
ingredients. it adds a brightness to the creamiest of soups and sauces, brings an unexpected crispness and flavor to vinaigrettes and is at home next to everything from beef to the most delicate seafood. Use a splash to deglaze a pan after roasting chicken or pork; verjus will add the same complexity wine does but with distinct flavor. reduced with a little sugar, its flavor concentrates. in syrup form it can add a pop of flavor to jams, jellies and herb sauces without watering down the finished product. For the adventurous, there are dessert applications: Use verjus in place of lemon juice in things like pound cake or citrus-curd bars. not ready for all of that? Keep it simple and throw it in a glass with a little club soda; you’ll get to know (and love) the flavor with a little “winemaker’s lemonade.” Verjus is either white (from white wine grapes, tart and light) or red (a blend of red or both red and white wine grapes, with less tartness and a more robust flavor). check with local wineries first before heading to the internet; some, such as chaumette Vineyards & Winery in ste. genevieve, missouri, make small batches seasonally, though they aren’t making any this year. in st. Louis, global Foods market stocks it; many international markets and artisan shops around the state stock it, as well.
Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as bon appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and in life.
Parsley-Macadamia Nut Gremolata with Verjus Reduction If you’re short on time (or knife skills), save yourself some hassle by pulsing the parsley, nuts and garlic in your food processor until they’re finely chopped but before they reach a paste. Pour into a bowl and stir in the other ingredients by hand. With gremolata, you’re basically done with a simple chop of nuts, herbs and garlic. Try this experiment: Make the recipe below, adding all ingredients but the reduced verjus; season and taste. Now add the verjus and take note of the changes in flavor and acidity and how your solidly delicious condiment just morphed into something stunning. Yields | 1 cup | ½ cup white verjus 1 Tbsp granulated sugar 1½ cups tightly packed and finely chopped fresh parsley leaves ½ cup finely chopped macadamia nuts 1 clove garlic, minced zest of 2 lemons sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
| Preparation | in a medium saucepan over medium heat, add verjus and sugar; stir until sugar dissolves. bring to a boil and reduce heat to medium low, simmering until reduced and syrupy; between 2 to 3 tablespoons liquid should remain. remove from heat and set aside to cool. in a medium bowl, combine parsley, macadamia nuts and garlic; stir to blend. add lemon zest and verjus reduction and stir to incorporate; season to taste with salt and pepper. serve with roasted vegetables, fish, chicken, turkey or pork.
Good Food Can Be Even Better
Food, Wine, Fun, Live Entertainment
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Galleria 1601 South Brentwood Boulevard Town and Country 1160 Town and Country Crossing Drive
Upcoming Events: Summer Music Festival Blue Grass Festival • Jazz Festival Live Music from 1:00pm-5:00pm
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April 30 Michael Schaerer Classic Rock May 1 Mr. Parker Band Greatest Hits May 7 Shakey Deal (Neil Young Tribute Band) May 8 The Dudes Rock/Country May 14 Everett Dean (Elvis Tribute) May 15 Matty Mo & The Rockets Blues/Rock
May 21 Mixed Emotions Top 40 hits May 22 Ron Sallee & The Convertibles Classic Rock May 28 The Hound May 29 Fire N’ Wine new Terrace grill
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MAY 2016
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menu options
Roasted Vegetables with Red wine Reduction We’re cooking with red wine this month in honor of Feast’s local wine issue. The flavor of the following red-wine reduction will be determined mostly by the style of wine you use. Choose a bottle of semisweet Zinfandel, Syrah or Catawba for a sweeter reduction, as opposed to popular drier red styles. If you want even more sweetness in your wine reduction, add a touch of honey, but keep in mind that vegetables will add natural sweetness, too.
The vegetable stock you use to make the reduction sauce is just as crucial as the red wine you choose. I recommend making your own stock from scratch, as homemade stock will bring out additional flavor from the vegetables and the red wine reduction sauce much more than shelf-stable varieties. Head to feastmagazine.com for my recipe for homemade vegetable stock, packed with leeks, parsnips, carrots, celery, butternut squash, cauliflower and more.
chef’s tips ZIPPED UP. The vegetable stock can be poured in Ziploc bags or Tupperware, dated and stored in the freezer until needed.
the menu • Golden Beet Salad • Cheesy Cauliflower Grits • Roasted Vegetables with Red Wine Reduction • Roasted Beef Tenderloin • Strawberry-Rhubarb Pie
LeaRn MoRe. In this class you’ll learn how to perfectly roast
beef tenderloin and vegetables. you’ll also learn how to make cheesy grits using cauliflower and make the most of seasonal produce including golden beets, strawberries and rhubarb.
get hands-on: Join Feast Magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on Wed., May 25, at 6pm at the des Peres, Missouri, location, to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $40 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com or call 314.909.1704.
STory and reCIpe by GabrIelle deMICHele pHoToGrapHy by JonaTHan GayMan
Roasted Vegetables with Red Wine Reduction Serves | 4 to 6 | Roasted VegetabLes
1 2 6 3 3 8 4 8 5 1
red onion, peeled and quartered red or yellow peppers, cleaned, seeded and cut into eighths cloves garlic small zucchinis, cleaned, cut into 1-inch pieces summer squash, cleaned, cut into 1-inch pieces petite Yukon Gold potatoes, halved small shallots, peeled and halved lengthwise small plum tomatoes, quartered lengthwise Tbsp grapeseed oil sprig rosemary sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Red Wine Reduction
1 1 1 1
tsp plus 3 Tbsp cubed unsalted butter, divided shallot, minced cup red wine cup vegetable stock
| preparation – Roasted Vegetables | adjust oven racks to the highest and lowest slots. preheat oven to 425°F. place all vegetables in a large bowl. drizzle with oil, add rosemary, salt and pepper to taste and toss. Spread vegetables onto 2 or 3 large baking sheets; do not crowd. roast for 10 minutes, toss and rotate pans low to high and front to back. roast for another 10 minutes until vegetables are tender and begin to caramelize. remove from oven and discard rosemary. Keep warm and set aside.
| preparation – Red Wine Reduction | While vegetables are roasting, heat a small saucepan over medium heat. add 1 teaspoon butter and once melted, add shallots. Sauté shallots for a few minutes until translucent, then add wine and stock. bring pan to a boil and reduce by half. Continue to cook until mixture starts to get syrupy, then add 3 tablespoons butter, 1 cube at a time, while constantly whisking.
| to serve| place hot roasted vegetables in a bowl, drizzle with wine reduction sauce and toss. adjust seasoning to taste and serve.
TV
WATCH IT ON THESE NETWORKS
In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Saturdays and Sundays at 6:30pm.
In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Sundays at 5:30pm.
You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Thursdays at 8pm and Saturdays at 4:30pm.
Feast TV will air in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) every Monday at 12:30pm.
Experience our region’s storied wine industry with visits to some of the area’s best wineries including a look at the Grape & Wine Institute at University of Missouri-Columbia, where the next vintage of winemakers is learning how to produce world-class American wines. Plus, we visit one of the region’s newest coopers, Hoffmeister Barrelworks, where the founder is hand-making white-oak barrels in Ste. Genevieve County. Visits to Stone Hill Winery, Les Bourgeois and Röbller Vineyard and Winery round out this episode and we also get in the kitchen with host Cat Neville to make risotto, a dish that spotlights wine’s versatility.
Feast TV is presented by Missouri Wines with additional support from Whole Foods Market.
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sweet ideas
eArL Grey PAnnA coTTA wiTh Lemon-ALmond BiScoTTi
sTory ANd rECIpE by ChrIsTy AuGusTIN phoToGrAphy by ChEryl WAllEr
Most people want cake for their birthdays, but not me. I almost always ask for custard. Any liquid thickened by some sort of protein is the most basic definition of a custard. Although that description doesn’t sound glamorous, I assure you that the luxurious mouthfeel achieved from a properly set panna cotta is a thing of beauty. Custards are usually thickened by cooked eggs in everything from crème anglaise to crème brûlée and flan. Italian for cooked cream, panna cotta is special in that gelatin is used instead of eggs.
Many recipes call for enough gelatin so that you can unmold the dessert onto a plate, but I love the soft texture of a lighter gel, requiring a pretty serving vessel like small teacups, wine glasses or small Mason jars. This simple dessert is quick to make, will keep in the refrigerator for several days and can be flavored any way you like. I’ve combined Earl Grey tea with milk and a twice-baked Italian cookie. Not your cup of tea? Try vanilla bean, fresh herbs, citrus or toasted nuts to infuse the cream.
Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. Learn more at pintsizebakery.com.
Earl Grey Panna Cotta with Lemon-Almond Biscotti Serves | 6 | Earl GrEy Panna Cotta
1 envelope powdered, unflavored gelatin (2¼ tsp per envelope) ¼ cup cold water ¾ cup granulated sugar 2 cups heavy cream 2 cups half-and-half 3 bags Earl Grey tea ½ tsp vanilla extract orange marmalade (to serve) lEmon-almond BisCotti
1 ½ 1⁄8 ½
cup unbleached all-purpose flour cup plus 1 Tbsp granulated sugar tsp baking soda tsp baking powder pinch kosher salt zest of 1 lemon 1 egg ¼ cup almonds (whole, slivered or sliced)
| Preparation – Earl Grey Panna Cotta | In a small, microwaveable bowl, sprinkle gelatin over cold water and stir. set aside to bloom, at least 5 minutes. In a medium pot over medium-low heat, combine sugar and dairy. heat while stirring to melt sugar, being careful not to boil. Empty tea leaves from bags into dairy mixture and let steep, off heat, for 10 minutes. strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. set aside. In the microwave in 30-second intervals, gently warm bloomed gelatin, stirring in between, until completely melted. Whisk gelatin into dairy mix and add vanilla. pour into 6 small vessels and refrigerate overnight or up to 4 days.
| Preparation – Lemon-Almond Biscotti | preheat oven to 300°F. In a medium bowl, combine dry ingredients and lemon zest. Make a well in the center, add egg and stir until evenly moistened. Mixture should be crumbly but hold together when squeezed. Add almonds and gently mix. Turn dough out onto parchment paper or a silicone baking mat. Form into a log, 2 inches wide, 12 inches long and ¾-inch thick. bake 25 to 30 minutes, until puffed and golden. Turn oven down to 250°F. remove biscotti and, once cooled, make ½-inch-thick slices with a serrated knife. Toast for 20 minutes (flipping at 10 minutes). store in an airtight container up to 1 month.
| To Serve | Top panna cotta with orange marmalade and serve with biscotti and a petite glass of white dessert wine.
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| 64 |
barreling ahead
| 72 |
making the grape
A Missouri cooper sketches the art and the science of his trade. Students at the University of Missouri’s Grape and Wine Institute are learning how to produce world-class American wines and sharing that knowledge with local winemakers.
| 83 |
the french connection
| 90 |
crossing the vine
| 95 |
rise and dine (and wine!)
Missouri vintners are taking traditional and modern approaches to make wine with decidedly French character. Two new hybrid grape varietals take root in the Midwest. Upgrade brunch with a six-course feast paired with local wine.
RöblleR VIneyARd’S AnnIVeRSARy noRTon beInG boTTled phoToGRAphy by GReGG GoldMAn
Written by bryan a. HollerbacH
ne late-winter afternoon, beneath charcoal skies, Joe Hoffmeister bounds from the office of Hoffmeister Barrelworks with a spring in his step. He does so despite having just driven to and from a trade show in Pennsylvania – a transit of 1,800 miles, give or take. His small but growing artisanal cooperage is located in northern Ste. Genevieve County, an hour’s drive south of St. Louis. The barrelworks’ white metal structure boasts a red roof and, incongruously, shutters and lies 5 miles south of Lawrenceton, Missouri, a municipal name undoubtedly familiar to metro summer-picnicgoers. At the moment, Hoffmeister estimates his cooperage makes fewer than 500 barrels annually, compared to Missouri competitors who make hundreds and even thousands daily. “I have about 100 customers across the U.S. and have sold to a big chunk of the wineries in Missouri,” he says, adding that the cooperage’s artisanal quality has earned business from wineries in more than 20 other states, among them California, Texas, Virginia and Washington. Although most of his barrels go to winemakers, a number of 64
feastmagazine.com
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PHotograPHy by Judd demaline
distilleries use them, as well. A lanky 50-year-old chap whose voice lilts with a chuckle and who sports a faded Cardinals T-shirt on the day of my visit, Hoffmeister hails from perhaps the longest-tenured dynasty in Ste. Genevieve’s burgeoning wine country. More specifically, his father and late mother, Linus and Hope Hoffmeister, opened the Sainte Genevieve Winery tasting room a block northeast of the historic municipality’s town square in 1983. (Toward the end of my visit to the cooperage, Hoffmeister’s father also visited, in the process of overseeing the delivery of gravel for the driveway leading to the vineyard, which is next door.) After earning a degree in enology from California State University, Fresno, Hoffmeister’s sister, Elaine Hoffmeister Mooney, joined their father in shepherding the winery as its winemaker. “The bulk of the winemaking for Sainte Genevieve Winery occurs about 100 yards from my shop in the adjacent building,”
Hoffmeister says. “That said, we are completely separate entities – different addresses, different leadership and so forth. They make wine; I make barrels. It’s fun to be located so close to family, but they’re busy and I’m busy, so the times we spend together are generally at the beginning of the day or the end of the day.” As a cooper, not a vintner, he has chosen to celebrate and elevate wine in a way different from that of his parents and sister, but with no less integrity and enthusiasm. Dating as far back as the 1920s, Hoffmeister estimates, the cooperage’s hulking equipment looks like B-movie sci-fi set schlock from two decades later, before everything turned plastic. “It’s definitely what I refer to as ‘vintage equipment,’” he says. “It’s old. It’s not high-speed. But it’s reliable. It’s super-heavy, and once you’ve got it set up to do what you need it to do, it will run over and over and over again.” Noting that the cooperage’s equipment came “from a number of different sources,” Hoffmeister cites as “one of the harder parts of getting into the business” the difficulty of finding such equipment in the absence of a handy Cooperages “R” Us. “So you seek it out,” he says. “A couple pieces I’ve had to build because I couldn’t find an existing one. But most of it was originally manufactured strictly for the barrel industry – it doesn’t have a dual purpose.”
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Hoffmeister then proceeds to give me a quick tour of the shop – which employs a small, seasonally variable staff – and a brief, informal lecture on the cooper’s art. Although symmetrical, the shape of a given barrel is not a cylinder, with curvature tapering each end. Thus, the inch-wide six to eight steel hoops that collectively hold the barrel together differ in diameter. The steel unspools from the end of a monolithic machine at the front of Hoffmeister’s shop into a carriage that advances it a set length. The machine then cuts the steel and punches it twice at each end. After being rolled together end to end, the piece then gets two rivets applied through the pairs of holes, and another machine compresses the rivets to form a barrel hoop. At the center of his shop, Hoffmeister stops before another pair of machines. He groups 10 or so shorter pieces of planed oak intended for a barrel end, or “head,” and uses a makeshift round template to ensure the group covers enough area. The first machine drills each of the pieces on its two sides, and Hoffmeister then hammers dowel pins into the holes. “There are a number of ways to make heads,” Hoffmeister notes regarding his use of such pins. “The big cooperages employ tongue-and-groove, steel pins or glue to hold the boards together. I use dowels because it is a very traditional methodology. It is a very strong and durable method to make heads, and my barrels should last decades, given the construction techniques I use.” Once a head has been compressed into a single (mostly square) unit, it’s locked into position on another machine. It then rotates 360 degrees around a blade that cuts the head into a perfect circle, with a “double-beveled” edge around the circumference. This ensures a perfectly tight seal when it’s fit onto the barrel. At the back of the shop, Hoffmeister uses yet another specialized machine involving two heavy black steel rings; one is roughly 2 feet in diameter, and the other is slightly larger and set higher. He places staves – the oak boards used for the body of a barrel – vertically around the inside circumference of the rings, the whole of which is then squeezed together, yielding a roughly conical shape.
Inspired Local Food Culture
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This construct is then placed over one of two fire pits. A small but steady fire heats the barrel for an extended time while intermittently being sprayed with water. This allows the staves to become pliable and they are then pulled and bent into a barrel shape by a cable-and-winch system. The proto-barrel then returns to the fire pit for toasting over gradually increasing heat, which drives the natural sugars and vanillins to the surface. Toasting times vary widely according to a client’s wishes. “Every winemaker has a different toast specification,” he says. “Some of them may want the inside of the barrel toasted at medium, and then the heads toasted at medium-plus and heavy. So there are a lot of different combinations. The majority of the barrels will be a light, a medium, a medium-plus or a heavy toast on the inside of the barrels as well as the heads.” His distillery customers often ask for charred, which is way past a heavy toast – not in the same category, even. “To char, I build a fire so hot the inside of the barrel literally catches on fire,” Hoffmeister says. Toasting also involves other factors like humidity, the staves’ moisture content and the duration of Hoffmeister’s fires, which are impossible to govern down to a set degree. Variability (albeit carefully overseen variability) very much defines the craftsmanship here. Après toasting, another monolithic-machine visit ensues. The barrel goes horizontally
into said machine, which rotates it 360 degrees, cutting deep grooves into each end to receive the heads. From there, Hoffmeister admits the heads in the grooves, and then pressure testing and sanding – using both a 5-inch-wide belt sander and hand-sanding – follow, before placement and tightening of the final hoops. At some point during these steps, Hoffmeister brands the logo and the toast level onto the barrel. The assembled barrel then visits one final station in the shop for stretch-wrapping to keep the moisture content of the wood approximately the same as it is at the time of the barrel’s manufacture, preventing or lessening subsequent drying and shrinking. Hoffmeister notes that his cooperage deals in barrels made both from American oak and French oak, the distinctions between which he succinctly defines for beginners. “The French oak, it bends a little differently, and the aromas that you get off of the wood when you toast it are different,” Hoffmeister says. “And from a density perspective, it’s a lighter barrel. When you move it around the shop, you can definitely tell the difference – it weighs 10 to 15 pounds less than an American oak barrel. And the way they cut and process the wood are different.” Hoffmeister enjoys wine, noting a preference for barrel-aged dry reds. He also has enjoyed the fruit of the vine from the fruits of his own labors. “I have tried wine from my barrels,” Hoffmeister says. “The
wine has been extremely good – which in my opinion means the winemaker knew what [he or she was] doing and my barrels complemented [his or her] expertise,” he says. “Barrels are but a piece, an important piece, but still just a piece of the puzzle when crafting great wine.” “It’s a good business – I like it,” Hoffmeister says of being an artisanal cooper, referring offhand to his prior stint behind a desk. More specifically, after earning an engineering degree from the University of Missouri-Rolla (now Missouri University of Science and Technology) in 1989 and an MBA from Washington University in St. Louis a decade later, he served a five-year stint with a consulting engineering firm in Kansas City and then worked for Anheuser-Busch in St. Louis for 17 years, first in the engineering department, then in logistics and business development. An intensive apprenticeship in cooperage changed all of that and led to the launch of Hoffmeister Barrelworks. “I like everything about it,” he says of the cooperage. “I like who the customer is, I like being able to employ people and give them jobs, and I like the engineering aspect of it – I like the woodworking.” In an almost wistful understatement, Hoffmeister concludes, “It’s really nice.” Hoffmeister Barrelworks, 6255 State Highway C, Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, 573.483.2215, hoffmeisterbarrelworks.com
Reflecting its nature, the contemporary cooperage trade involves comparatively few artisans. “To my knowledge, no Missouri-specific cooperage association exists,” Joe Hoffmeister says. “But I’ve met and talked with all the other Missouri cooperage owners, which has been helpful. The best feedback I get, however, is from those who use my barrels and what I observe in my shop.” Obtaining brief but expert insights into how his or any other artisanal barrels might influence the flavor of wine involves only contacting his sister, Elaine Hoffmeister Mooney, who earned a degree in enology from California State University, Fresno and now serves as winemaker at Sainte Genevieve Winery. “French and American oak barrels impart very different flavors and aromas,” Hoffmeister Mooney says of the two types of wood her brother uses in his barrels (exclusive of, say, Hungarian or Portuguese oak). “Typically, French barrels give a more subtle oak component, but more spicy, too, maybe even a pepper bacon-type smokiness. American oak barrels have a more robust flavor and aroma, but also more vanilla, or creaminess.” The origin of the oak might matter less to a vintner than another factor, Hoffmeister Mooney adds. “A lot of winemakers [now] choose barrels by cooper and not by country because someone like Joe can make a French and American oak barrel,” she says. “The difference comes in the staves and then the toasting of the barrel, and these are both decided by the cooper.” Hoffmeister Mooney concludes her insights with familial warmth. “I love smelling the barrels when Joe is toasting them over the open fire,” she says. “I get aromas of toasted marshmallow and even some pipe tobacco, almond, molasses. There’s a lot of complexity in these barrels. I can picture the wines in his barrels, and my mouth starts to water. I can visualize the soft, oaky nuances in a white wine or the more intense flavors in a dark red wine.”
Go behind the scenes at Hoffmeister Barrelworks in the local wine episode of Feast TV. Turn to p. 15 for information on PBS affiliates airing Feast TV, or visit feastmagazine.com. Inspired Local Food Culture
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In late sprInG, mIdwest GrapevInes typICally develop Green Clusters at theIr shoots, whICh Flower and then yIeld Grapes. several years aGo, thouGh, sarah sChmIdt, owner and wInemaker at BaltImore Bend vIneyard In waverly, mIssourI, notICed a deClIne In her Chardonel Grapes. the onCe-thrIvInG vInes were yellowInG, and the leaves were wItherInG and FallInG oFF. she trIed to solve the proBlem By prunInG the vInes and FeedInG the soIl dIFFerent nutrIents and FertIlIzers, to no avaIl, and her Chardonel harvest steadIly dwIndled. out oF optIons on her own, she deCIded to Consult the experts at the unIversIty oF mIssourI (mu)’s Grape and wIne InstItute (GwI). After a quick phone call, the GWI sent scientists out to her 7-acre vineyard, located approximately halfway between Columbia, Missouri, and Kansas City, to take pictures and collect soil samples. Soon, Schmidt had her answer: A soil insect, the American dagger nematode, was the culprit. The next spring, under the GWI’s recommendation, Schmidt uprooted 2 acres of the all-but-dead Chardonel vines (an experience she describes as “heart-wrenching”), and applied an insecticide that had to lie dormant for two years before the vines could be replaced. Today, Schmidt says she’s just now seeing her Chardonel vines mature once more and considers the outcome a success. Although grape-growers and winemakers might not have issues like this every season, when they do have problems, the GWI is armed to help. The institute conducts research in both winemaking and grape-growing to positively impact the health and growth of the wine industry in the region. And although it’s based in Columbia, the GWI has satellite research centers and vineyards across the state. The Missouri Wine and Grape Board funds the research and extension of the viticulture and enology (the scientific study of wines) programs – between $850,000 and $925,000 annually, depending on the year – through a statewide tax on wine sales. As part of the GWI’s extension network of more than 120 regional wineries, Schmidt has called on the institute a few times and has been pleased with its help and responsiveness. “I try to recommend the Grape and Wine Institute to a lot of growers,” Schmidt says, “especially new growers.” She is just one example of how the institute can immediately impact the local wine industry and its winemakers, as opposed to the long-term and ongoing research that it also conducts each day. Without the thriving wine industry across Missouri, the institute couldn’t exist, says Misha Kwasniewski, Ph.D., assistant research professor and enology-program leader at the GWI. The support goes both ways, though, as many winemakers share their knowledge about what’s going on at their vineyards with the institute, contribute rows in their vineyards for senior thesis research and give lectures to students on new grape varieties. “It’s very much a symbiotic relationship between us doing our research and extension activities, with wineries working with us and working with one another,” Kwasniewski says.
From Grape to Class The institute is part of the College of Agriculture, Food & Natural Resources at MU, with faculty spanning both the Food Science and Nutrition and Plant Sciences departments. The official track a student can take is by earning a food science degree focused on enology or a minor in enology or viticulture. The GWI offers these classes to undergrads and graduate students and will soon introduce a four-year program at the university. Students from other programs and majors, like hospitality management or journalism, can also take courses like the popular introductory Grapes and Wines of the World, which teaches wine science, history and about various wine regions. (Who would have thought that a class focused on alcohol would be so popular among college students!) “You get people who show up who think it’s going to be a semester of tasting wine, and then one day, they see a bunch of chemical structures and have to figure out the kinetics of fermentation,” Kwasniewski says with a chuckle. “There will be those who are really excited about it and others who quickly realize this is a real science.” But students do get to do some tasting – it’s an important part of the learning process, particularly for seniorlevel enology classes. (Students spit after every taste to comply with university and state regulations.) The program’s work with barrel aging allows students to taste, smell and feel what happens when the same wine goes into different types of barrels. “Once you get to smaller barrels, everything sort of speeds up, so in the course of a semester, they can start to taste the extraction and the differences that are going on,” Kwasniewski says. Students sample what happens when wine is aged in large or small barrels made of different types of oak (Hungarian, French or American) or with various types of oak additives (chips, segments). They learn about how American oak has coconut aromas or French oak provides more mouthfeel and tannin. These demonstrations teach students to fully understand what steps they’d need to take to get particular flavor characteristics or qualities when making wine – and, by extension, what information to share with winemakers to help them produce high-quality aged wines. “You can talk about how it’s more tannic and smells like coconut, but until you sip that glass of wine, it’s a little bit hard to imagine,” Kwasniewski says.
Meet the GWI team in the local wine episode of Feast TV. Turn to p. 15 for information on PBS affiliates airing Feast TV, or visit feastmagazine.com.
Written by Mallory GnaeGy
|
photoGraphy by anGelique hunter
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The senior-level enology and viticulture courses see between 25 and 30 students enrolled each semester, which Kwasniewski says are great numbers for the amount of winemakers and grape-growers needed in Missouri and other Midwestern states. After graduation, students who have enrolled in the program go on to pursue roles such as winemaking, vineyard management, equipment sales and other fermentation-related jobs, as well as at breweries or distilleries. Some students are even working toward opening their own wineries independently or with their families. Pouring over Lab Work In addition to teaching, Kwasniewski performs a variety of tasks in his day-to-day work in enology. He orchestrates enology-research initiatives and facilitates any outside research within the program’s on-campus analytical lab. The lab is not just for students; it’s for anyone who wants to conduct grape and wine research through the university. And parallel to Kwasniewski’s position, there’s a viticulture program leader, Arianna
Bozzolo, who does the same type of work on the grape-growing side of research. Kwasniewski focuses on everything from grape development to exploring quality parameters and the underlying biochemistry of fruit development. A good example of the work he and his team conduct is the optimization of a new grape variety, which can take years. The GWI does everything but the actual breeding; however, Kwasniewski works with the only grape breeder in Missouri (out of Missouri State University). Before a new grape selection is named, there’s a limited release of vines to commercial producers, who try growing it and share feedback. It takes five years for the vines to produce wine-worthy grapes, so their feedback loop might not close for a decade. If the cross proves successful in making desirable wine and is named, there’s still a lot of work that must happen to optimize its growth: assessing nutrient needs, growth habits, the best way to trellis and manage the canopy, the amount of yield, fruit quality and how to make the best wine out if it.
Take Noiret, one of the more recent grapes to be introduced in Missouri over the past decade. It was originally known as NY73.0136.17 when it was developed at New York State Agricultural Experiment Station, Geneva, a division of the New York State College of Agriculture and Life Sciences at Cornell University (Kwasniewski’s alma mater) from a cross made in 1973. It wasn’t officially released until 2006, more than 30 years later.
wine to determine, on behalf of the growers, what is suitable to grow in the Midwest’s temperamental climate: very hot summers, humidity, disease (like different types of mildew, mold or rot), and unpredictably low and high winter temperatures. Where many wine-growing regions might deal with just one of these elements or not have to intervene at all, oftentimes our region is up against nearly all of Mother Nature’s obstacles.
Although crosses are created often, no named crosses have come out of Missouri in any official capacity to date (although Traminette was developed at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign). There are more established breeding programs in New York, Arkansas, Minnesota and California, and even with all of these combined, a cross gets named just once every few years.
“Everything [in Missouri] transpires to be a little harder,” Kwasniewski says.
Through The graPevine The institute plants not-yet-named, experimental grapes in controlled blocks at the Horticulture and Agroforestry Research Center (HARC) vineyard in New Franklin, Missouri, which is operated by the GWI. Teachers and students make
Kwasniewski says that students who finish the program are not only prepared to grow grapes in Missouri, but can also use that knowledge to successfully grow grapes across the country and the world, especially in places where intervention is much less frequent.
The research helps determine how a variety thrives in the region, how it should be grown here and what is needed for the actual propagation and supply to vineyards – essentially, it tells vineyards which grapes are worth growing and which might not be suitable.
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HARC is one of three research vineyards the GWI manages. Each vineyard has its own purpose, and, altogether, totals around 6 to 7 acres throughout the state. The HARC vineyard deals primarily in unnamed experimental cultivars where new breed-releases in the state or across the globe can be tested. The GWI has participated in the release of several named crosses in the past decade, such as Valvin Muscat, and within the past two years, Aromella, a cross between Traminette and Ravat 34. Right now, there are 30 unnamed varieties being tested at HARC, and although Kwasniewski isn’t contractually able to confirm which, “There are seven or eight that are very promising,” he says. The newest of the GWI’s vineyards, South Farm Research Center, is close to MU’s main campus in Columbia and acts as a demonstration vineyard for students to get hands-on experience. Here, researchers plant vines that have been successful in previous cultivar trials to look at how they can best grow in Missouri. The institute recently received a couple of varieties from Germany after a quarantine in the U.S. The quarantine process dates back to one of the most devastating
“i hope other wineries start using the institute because i think if everyone in the state can make good-quality wine, then the competition will get harder, and we’ll keep making better and better wines. knowledge is the only way we’re going to get there.” larrylost creekfrichtel,vineyards events in the wine industry: In the late 19th century, France’s production was almost completely wiped out by grape phylloxera, a root-feeding aphid that was brought over on American vines. Because of this, any vines from overseas must be quarantined in the U.S. before they can be tested to see how they survive in Missouri. Researchers like Kwasniewski test how viable these varieties will be, including if they can withstand sweltering summers and how they hold up against disease.
from the grapes to share with wineries. The Southwest Center vineyard is filled with Chambourcin vines to study factors like establishment of rootstock varieties (rootstock is a healthy part of the root used in grafting hybrids) and how rootstock and irrigation interact.
Arianna Bozzolo has been doing a lot of work with rootstock, including finding ways to mitigate the amount of water used to hydrate grapevines. In layman’s terms, that means it can limit the amount In addition to researching new grape varieties, the GWI also focuses a lot of its of water used on crops, leading to more research at South Farm on grape varietals sustainable operations. Bozzolo’s methods include measuring everything from the that are already popular in Missouri, like carbon dioxide released by the vines to the Chambourcin, Traminette, Norton and Vidal Blanc as well as at its third vineyard, chlorophyll inside of one leaf. Southwest Center, in Mount Vernon, The GWI is also studying how to limit Missouri. The GWI is developing better pesticide use, and its work has allowed methods of processing and making wine
growers to do less manual work in the fields, as well. Its research does what growers don’t have the time or money to do themselves and has led the way in finding economically and environmentally sustainable practices for local vintners. Under a Positive inflUence One of the advances Kwasniewski is proudest to have spearheaded since joining the program in 2013 is testing malolactic fermentation, which occurs when bacteria converts malic acid in the grapes and provides what Kwasniewski calls the “sumptuous feeling [of] red wine that [we’ve] come to expect.” The testing process to identify if that conversion has actually taken place is complicated and can require hazardous chemicals. The GWI not only uses this testing and equipment for samples in-house but also for the industry – for a modest fee of around $30, versus the $100-plus cost it might be elsewhere. Kwasniewski hopes the testing will act as a gateway for wineries the institute hasn’t worked with yet to enter its extension program. That was exactly the case for Larry Frichtel, the vineyard and winery manager of Lost Creek Vineyard near Hermann, Missouri. Frichtel’s father and uncle, Steve and Tom Frichtel, respectively, opened Inspired Local Food Culture
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Lost Creek first as a vineyard in 1997, growing grapes to sell to other wineries and winemakers. By 2011, along with Larry, they got into commercial winemaking. In 2014 and 2015, Larry needed lab work on his wine, and the GWI could give him an analysis of how much sugar, acid and organic matter was in the juice quickly and at a lower cost than anywhere else. Larry, who studied soil science in college and has grown 40 tons of grapes annually for nearly two decades, is confident in his grape-growing abilities – he still supplies many Missouri wineries with grapes. The institute recognizes his expertise and even invited him to lecture at a conference on the topic of Noiret grapes. Every few years, though, Larry needs a little guidance when it comes to winemaking. Aside from the lab work for which he regularly calls on the GWI, Larry taps researchers’ brains for recommendations and to bounce ideas around – like what yeast will work best with a late-harvest Chardonel, a cross between Chardonnay and Seyval Blanc, for example. The grapes have a much higher sugar content later in the season, which demands a particular type of yeast (yeast feeds on sugar to create alcohol). “I hope other wineries start using the
institute because I think if everyone in the state can make good-quality wine, then the competition will get harder, and we’ll keep making better and better wines,” Larry says. “Knowledge is the only way we’re going to get there.” not Crying oVer spilled Wine The biggest difference Kwasniewski feels he has made is helping winemakers solve problems that could have otherwise resulted in dumping thousands of gallons of wine down the drain. The work he and his colleagues are doing at the GWI has made the difference between someone having a profitable year or not. “There’s that level of helping get them started and continue going, and then as they run into problems, [we] have a dedicated team that tries to understand it,” Kwasniewski says. “There are new instances of disease, so having your own statewide team aware and in contact with the rest of the country is important.” And even if the institute “fails” – by seeing a cultivar it’s tried to grow die or by discovering a treatment it’s applied to certain wine isn’t working after all – it has still succeeded by identifying these failures. But on the other hand, if a grower planted a couple acres and they died, or if a winemaker used a couple thousand
gallons of wine with a bad treatment – they don’t get to try it again, or they have a limited number of times to do so. That might be it for that winery or winemaker. Two years ago the GWI had excess Chambourcin grapes, so they made wine in eight different ways, including using the grapes to make dry rosé and freezing grapes to make ice wine.
rising to the top of the BArrel Tony Kooyumjian, owner of Augusta Winery and Montelle Winery, both in Augusta, Missouri, and chair of the research committee on the Missouri Wine and Grape Board, says that a lot of the important work the GWI is doing is helping interested people enter the industry in Missouri.
“We want these people to get off to a good start and produce good-quality wine from “[The ice wine] was a bit of a failure; I would the beginning, and we want to make sure that they’re educated properly,” he says. not recommend it,” Kwasniewski says with a laugh. “It took on a crazy color that wasn’t particularly appetizing, but it was a Since Kooyumjian entered the business more than three decades ago, he’s seen great experience for everyone.” the effect it’s had on the region’s wine, in both the short and long term. For instance, Although Kwasniewski considered some Kooyumjian says that in 1980 when he of the methods failures, the experiments started, he noticed many local wineries and results illustrate how the institute made wine from juice grapes like Concord can afford to fail in ways that local or Niagara. Now, local winemakers mostly winemakers can’t, better serving the work with French-American hybrids and Missouri wine industry. other grapes developed by viticulturists. “If we have a loss, if we fail, it’s on us,” Kwasniewski says. “As a winemaker, you’re “I’ve seen a change much to the positive in the past 15 years – progress has really really trying to keep your business going, accelerated,” Kooyumjian says. support your family and have everything [be] successful. We can push things a And continual progress is not only great for little bit to the edge – sometimes in his wineries, it’s also great for the region. the teaching element, sometimes with “If it’s recognized that the state is research – [and] it’s still a scientific producing good wines, then it bolsters our success [for the GWI]. We can move brand,” he says. forward and learn from that.” Inspired Local Food Culture
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local vintners experiment with french-style winemaking techniques Written by Jessica Vaughn | Photo courtesy röbller Vineyard
to produce dry-style, food-friendly wines.
resembles the French approach.
“People are trying to make more classically styled wines, which means they have fewer new oak barrels utilized, and they’re going to be higher in acid,” Frost says.
“You have to work with what nature gives you,” Frost says. “The silliest thing in the world is when somebody tries to impose a style upon grapes that is not natural to the flavors and the structural characteristics of those grapes. So, in many ways, it’s proverbial; we’re trying to make lemonade out of lemons.”
narrow gravel road winds alongside the Meramec River, revealing at its end Claverach Farm, a vineyard and farm nestled in a lush green valley just outside Eureka, Missouri.
they are nicknamed, are rarely made in the Midwest. “In France there’s this group of mostly young winemakers who are sort of irreverent to traditions,” Hilmer says of cloudy wine.
Here, Sam Hilmer, co-owner, farm manager and winemaker, experiments with the oldest-known method of producing sparkling wine. The French winemaking tradition, known as méthode ancestrale, produces pétillant naturel (pét-nat for short), a naturally sparkling wine. The natural bubbles are achieved by bottling before primary fermentation has finished, resulting in a wine similar to Champagne but without the added sugar.
Claverach field manager Rachel Shulman In contrast to the styles of wines typically says Hilmer is cut from the same cloth as those French winemakers: “Sam is nothing made in California, Frost says modern French-style dry wines have more acidity if not irreverent,” she says with a smile. and less tannin structure. “Everybody around the world is talking this game, The winery’s pét-nat is just one example – albeit an extremely unique one – of how but not everyone’s doing it,” Frost says. more local vintners are making wines with “But what’s cool about grapes here in the Midwest is that they sort of force you to decidedly French character. make wine that way.” Although French-style wines are made Missouri’s grapes have a great deal of all over the world, Kansas City-based tartness, but low to no tannin, which Master of Wine and Master Sommelier is often the structuring element for Doug Frost says they’re particularly red wines on the West Coast. Instead, well-suited to Missouri, where popular Missouri winemakers use acidity as French-American hybrid grapes like Chardonel and Chambourcin are often used their structuring element, which
Each bottle of Claverach’s pét-nat has noticeable sediment resting at the bottom, something Hilmer says is more common in European wines. Although popular in Europe, such “cloudy wines,” as
And he’s not speaking metaphorically. “In the past, Missouri winemakers made wine the same way you make lemonade – you dumped a bunch of sugar in there,” Frost says. “The question now has become, ‘Can we make dry-style wines that are respectful of the grapes and are fun to drink, even though we’re dealing with this tartness that we’re stuck with?’ “It’s a challenge for winemakers, and I think it’s one that they’re answering.” Inspired Local Food Culture
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FRENCH-STYLE viNiFiCaTioN Since opening in the late 1980s, Röbller Vineyard in New Haven, Missouri, has embraced the knowledge of accomplished domestic and European grape growers and winemakers to produce European-style wines. “How do you create an outcome in a wine that takes advantage of both sides of the pond?” asks Jerry Mueller, winemaker at Röbller. “It’s really all about old-world and new-world [approaches].” Mueller’s philosophy stems from his father, Robert Mueller, who planted his first grapevines almost three decades ago. Father and son have always approached their work with the belief that good wine starts in the vineyard. “I learned early, on the French side of things, that complexity comes from varieties, complexity comes [from] the land and complexity comes from what you do in the winery,” Jerry says. “But it starts out there, [where] you’re growing.” Soil heavily influences the grapes grown at any vineyard, as well as the wine made with that fruit. The French have a term for this, terroir, derived from the words for land and soil. It refers to the impact of the entire grape-growing environment, from soil to climate, on wine’s aroma, flavor and complexity. Terroir has always been foundational for the grapes grown at Röbller. One of the reasons Robert purchased the land was due to its south-facing slopes, giving the vines an east-west exposure all day, and for its deep soil and location within a mile of a river. The roots of Röbller’s grapevines push 6- to 18-feet deep into the soil before reaching limestone. The slope of the sedimentary rock allows for quick moisture retention in dry weather, allowing the vineyards to be completely dry farmed. Dry farming has been a tradition in Asian and European countries for centuries. Irrigation is forbidden in many parts of the world, as water supplementation changes the terroir. Water is only added when a vine is planted, after which it relies solely on natural precipitation. “It gives those little plants the help they need,” Jerry says. “But after that, the rest is Mother Nature.” Since its first vintage, Röbller has used dry farming to capture more intense flavors from its grapes. “We’re seeing, more than anything, a well-structured fruit and really interesting fruit characteristics,” Jerry says. “We capture those aromas and flavors in the process of making wine, but we also capture the structure that leads to longer mouthfeel length on the palate and more complexity in the wine.” %PG
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The 2012 drought left its mark on the Norton wine in a big way, Jerry says, imparting tremendous tannin structure and making it one of the most interesting wines Röbller has ever produced. Jerry observed, for example, a greater expression of cinnamon in the Norton, and a change from apple to citrus notes in his Vidal Blanc. “It’s the land,” Jerry says. “There’s something protective about this land.” He acts as a shepherd to make sure his land will foster great wine for years to come. “We have to be good stewards of the land because this is such a generational business,” he says. “Those who will come after my father, after me, we want to make sure that the foundation in the land is maintained, preserved and protected for them.” The grapes growing in Röbller’s vineyards are a mix of French-American hybrids including Chambourcin, St. Vincent and Vidal Blanc, as well as Norton and some Vitis vinifera, grapevines of European origin. Jerry buys yeast directly from France and Spain, and contrary to what’s predominately done in the industry, he matches the yeast with different grape varietals to create wines with complexity and nuanced character. “I could use five different yeast selections and create five different outcomes in wine,” Jerry says.
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He likens the approach to how a chef seasons food: “If you just use salt, it’s not the same outcome as using salt, pepper and garlic.” And just as chefs build menus that incorporate many influences and flavors, Jerry describes his wines as embodying a similar diversity. “Rather than having a similar flavor or quality, I think everything here has a different profile,” he says. “And they should, because they are all very different grapes to work with and wines to create.” But Jerry says his primary focus when making wine is to first bring out the natural flavors of the grape itself and balance them to create a pleasing finish. “Having a balanced wine is the main thing,” he says. “The flavors are dictated by the fruit. Each year the vineyard is going to produce something different; each vintage has a different flavor. It’s about extracting from the fruit what that vintage has produced.” PIctured left: Röbller Vineyard before a storm. Photo by tyann Marcink PIctured rIght: After pruning, the natural water signals healthy activity in the vine. Photo by gregg goldMan
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PIctured: Robert Mueller bottling
Röbller’s anniversary Norton . Photo by gregg goldman
Emulation of parent grape flavors is one way to extract these nuances, Jerry says. Vignoles, for example, is a hybrid of a hybrid (Seibel 6905) and a clone of Pinot Noir, Pinot de Corton. “All of those wines are light-acid profiles and have a slight touch of sweetness that balances out that acidity,” he says. “Really, the idea here is to emulate the outcome of what its parent grape has been. That’s where yeast selection comes in; that’s where method and technique comes in. It brings interesting qualities out of the grape.” Another wine, Le Trompier Noir, first produced at Röbller in 1993, is a field blend of Chambourcin, St. Vincent and Villard Noir, all French-hybrid grapes that grow alongside one another in the winery’s vineyard. This lighter-bodied wine expresses a character reminiscent of Burgundian Pinot Noir, with dark fruit notes and a hint of oak-barrel flavor. Jerry says it’s a prime example of how the whole is more than the sum of its parts. “When you sit down and hear the orchestra, you don’t hear anything but the whole,” he says. “This wine is about being able to enjoy the sum, which is all of these components brought together.”
Through his former wine-distribution business, Jerry honed his knowledge of wines from all around the world – not just by tasting, but also by talking with winemakers themselves. Some weeks they tried 300 wines, including well-known and obscure varietals. He now uses that knowledge and experience to determine what varietals will thrive in his vineyard. “My interest is making sure what we produce here fits,” he says. “Good-quality wine wins. [My father’s] idea of good-quality wine is wine with balance. I’m taking what I learned from him and adding an extra layer of complexity to that wine with extra techniques and methods. Those are things I learned from really amazing winemakers. “It’s really about paying tribute in the cellar to what the heck we do in the vineyard,” he says. “You spend all year growing these darn things in the vineyard, might as well do something with them in the cellar. Let their lives become something compelling.” Another facet of Jerry’s winemaking is bâtonage, or lees aging and stirring, a French technique that originated in a few small provinces in Burgundy. The term lees refers to the dead yeast cells or sediment that falls to the bottom of the barrel, cask
or vat where wine is fermented. Usually they don’t impart flavor, but Jerry makes them work to his advantage. “Instead of letting them just take a nap at the bottom, we stir them up,” he says. Over time, the yeast begins to absorb the oak barrel’s flavor. The process allows wine to retain more of the yeast’s natural flavor while also adding complexity from the compounds released from the lees, like fatty acids and amino acids, as they break down in the wine. Jerry says it helps build a complex profile and impacts the mouthfeel more than imparting its own flavors. He uses his Vidal Blanc as an example. “After about 16 months, all this creamy body will come to the front along with the fruit, and at 18 months fruit becomes the main player, with just a hint of oak,” he says. White wine aged in oak barrels and stainless steel can also benefit from lees stirring. Jerry uses bâtonage to make his Vignoles, Vidal Blanc and Seyval Blanc wines. Jerry also employs cold-soaking, a pre-fermentation cold-maceration process, to extract the most nuanced and desirable characteristics from his grapes.
Cold-soaking is an aqueous extraction, rather than an alcoholic extraction, of compounds from grape flesh, skins and seeds. The result is a more fruit-forward base wine with strong aromatics and more intense color in the finished product. “The idea is to try to capture characteristics from fruit before you create alcohol,” Jerry says. “The amount of fruit characteristics being imparted declines with alcohol, so the longer you can cold-soak, the better the outcome in wine.” With Norton, for example, Jerry says cold-soaking creates a softer profile in young wine, even before it’s aged in barrels, eliminating the hard-acid profile and bite that’s sometimes associated with Missouri’s state grape. By growing grapes in rich soil and drawing inspiration from French winemaking techniques, both old and new, Jerry hopes to create wines that people will enjoy in much the same way that they were produced: slowly, carefully and with intention. “This is about finesse and elegance,” Jerry explains. “It’s about creating that kind of an outcome.”
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Giving you the Wine Country experience…
Inventive American Cuisine & Fine Wines Cellar List | Glass & Bottle List Wine Club | Tastings & Classes EDGE WILD EdgeWild Restaurant & Winery
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WINEMAKING TECHNIQUES Back at Claverach, Sam Hilmer has been making wine for almost 20 years. He first became interested in grape growing while raising vegetables on his family’s farm, where Claverach now operates. It wasn’t long before wine grapes were added to the list of crops. Claverach’s first wine, made with Norton and Chambourcin grapes, was bottled in 2002. The vineyard has expanded over the years to include European and French-American hybrid grapes such as Cabernet Franc, Petit Manseng, Marsanne, Viogner and a tiny planting of Pinot Noir, along with Chambourcin. European varietals now account for about 60 percent of its yield.
wine, whereas in beer it’s accepted these days. But I think as we go forward, we’ll see more wines that are cloudy.” Another traditional quality of Claverach’s pét-nats is the absence of added yeast. “After a period of time in a winery or in a cellar, yeast become indigenous, so you don’t necessarily have to add anything,” Hilmer says. “It’s sort of a leap of faith, initially, when you don’t know what you’re going to get.” The inherent risk involved in producing pét-nats and their unknowable quality is what makes them exciting to Hilmer – and other contemporary winemakers.
Shulman says the vineyard’s soil is particularly suited to these varietals. “We have very high limestone in the soil, which is common in France,” she says. “That’s one of the things that keeps us growing French wine grapes.” The limestone in the soil allows for quick drainage, even after heavy flooding from the nearby Meramec River.
The movement first began to emerge in France in the ’90s when several young winemakers left their jobs in vineyards and at wine cellars to experiment with making small batches of unique wines in garages and other small spaces. They were dubbed garagistes, and their wines were called vins de garage, or “garage wines.”
Hilmer plants his vineyards in a European fashion, as well. Unlike other Missouri wineries, where the average vine density is 500 an acre, the European varietals in Claverach’s vineyard have up to 2,500 vines an acre. Hilmer plants the rows extremely close together, and harvesting and pruning must be done by hand. “It’s more difficult to farm, but the ultimate reward is a more interesting flavor,” Hilmer says.
Like Hilmer, these winemakers were exploring techniques and approaches outside of the mainstream wine industry. Their yields were extremely low, and the vines were heavily pruned by hand. Everything was hand-picked and de-stemmed, and often crushed by foot, in an effort to master every step of the winemaking process. They plucked individual leaves off grapevines to expose grapes to specific windows of sunlight for targeted growth and let grapes hang on the vine long past normal harvest to yield fruit with more concentrated flavor.
Over the past 14 years, Hilmer has made many European-style wines, but this is the first year Claverach has released its pét-nats, those “cloudy wines” inspired by the oldestknown method for making sparkling wine that has made a resurgence in Europe. Claverach produced about 1,000 bottles of red and rosé pét-nat this year, which will be sold at the farm and might make it into a few retail stores in the St. Louis area. The rosé is made with 100 percent Chambourcin grapes, and the red is a blend of Chambourcin and Cabernet Franc. Hilmer has also experimented with a blend of white European grapes grown at the winery (Bianca, Petit Manseng, Viognier and Marsanne) but he’s still perfecting the wine. And then there’s the sediment resting at the bottom of each bottle of Claverach’s pét-nat, giving it that signature cloudy quality. Usually such sediment is dispelled by disgorgement, a process in which the lees are frozen and removed from the wine. Hilmer decided to skip the step to achieve a more authentic French-style pét-nat. Some revere the cloudiness as superior – a sign that wine hasn’t been manipulated. Others see it as form of rebellion in the industry, or pushing the limits of new-world winemaking. “That’s an old-world thing; the resurgence of cloudy wines is America looking to Europe,” Hilmer says. “Most wines in the commercial market are disgorged because it’s not common to have cloudy
Inspired by the garagistes, Hilmer says Claverach’s pét-nats offer something unique in the local wine industry. “It’s not that I dislike traditions; it’s just that I think we have to question why we do things in certain ways,” Hilmer says. By combining European grape-growing methods with traditional and modern French winemaking techniques, Hilmer and Jerry Mueller have produced wines made with grapes that thrive in Missouri’s climate – and yet are truly French-inspired in structure and character. “I’m looking to do something different,” Hilmer says. “I think there is a place for people making Norton and Chardonel and the standard varieties here, but I think there’s also room for people who want to grow European grapes. As consumers become more educated and open to different things, you’re going to see more experimentation with producers.” Jerry also sees an opportunity for the local wine industry to grow through European approaches. “[Missouri wines have] been categorized and boxed into this idea that if it’s from here, it’s sweet or it’s uninteresting,” he says. “But if we apply these techniques, then the industry has an ability to compete at a high level.”
RöblleR VineyaRd 275 Robller Vineyard Road, new Haven, Missouri, 573.237.3986, robllerwines.com ClaVeRaCH FaRM 570 S. lewis Road, eureka, Missouri, 636.938.7353, claverachfarm.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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two new hybrid grape varietals take root in the midwest WrITTEN BY JESSICA VAUGHN
|
PHOTOGrAPHY BY SArAH CONArD
n Missouri, native grapes like Norton, Concord and Catawba are most commonly grown for wine production, but they are more the exception than the rule. An overwhelming 60 percent of the wine grapes grown in the state are hybrids, according to the Missouri Wine and Grape Board. Hybrids combine the hardiness of native grapes with the character of popular Vitis vinifera, varietals like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that hail from Europe. Chardonel, a popular grape varietal in the Midwest, is a prime example: A hybrid of Chardonnay and Seyval Blanc, Chardonel thrives in hot Midwestern summers but retains the desirable characteristics of its French parent. Twenty-four years ago, when Lucian Dressel sold Mount Pleasant Winery in Augusta, Missouri, and moved to Davis, California, he set off on a journey to create new hybrid grapes that would thrive in Missouri’s climate while capturing the flavor of European wines. In Davis, Dressel lived on the same road as Dr. Harold Olmo, considered one of the most famous grape breeders of the 20th century. A professor emeritus at University of California, Davis, one of few universities worldwide with a grape-growing and winemaking program, Dr. Olmo helped Dressel research and breed his desired crosses. Ten years after moving to the West Coast, Dressel had seedlings to plant in California, but he knew the true test would be summers in Missouri. In 2002, he moved back to the Midwest and put his seedlings in the ground. The result was two successful vines from a Norton-Cabernet Sauvignon cross: a red, which he called Crimson Cabernet, and a white, called Cabernet Doré. The second grape expressed a recessive white gene, likely from Sauvignon Blanc, a parent of Cabernet Sauvignon. “These are grape varietals that really don’t like to breed with any others,” he says. “They’ve used these grapes in breeding programs, and it’s been a tremendous flop. Maybe the two of them, because they didn’t like anyone else, liked each other.” The cross created two grapes that each make high-quality, balanced wine. The Crimson Cabernet has a medium body and flavors of cherry and blackberry that linger on the palate. The Cabernet Doré, an iridescent white wine, is refreshing, smooth and slightly creamy, with a strong floral nose. Today, Dressel’s crosses can be found in vineyards in 26 states, including at several wineries in Missouri. “You can drive from Connecticut to California and never leave a state where they’re growing Crimson Cabernet,” Dressel says with pride. Brandon Dixon, winemaker and general manager at Noboleis Vineyards in Augusta, Missouri, got his start working closely with the Dressel family at Mount Pleasant. However, it was a newcomer to Missouri’s wine industry, Harold Hamby, who first gave Dixon the chance to make Dressel’s crosses three or four years prior. Hamby, who owns a shipping company in St. Louis, opened LaChance Vineyards in De Soto, Missouri, last year. The vineyard has 8 acres of grapes, 6 of which are Crimson Cabernet and Cabernet Doré. Hamby says he became infatuated with French wine after his first glass of Châteauneuf-duPape. Throughout the next 35 years his adoration of the earthy, full-bodied red wine blossomed into a love of both European and domestic bottlings, which he has grown into a collection of around 600 bottles. When Hamby decided to invest in his own vineyard, he searched for a grape that would thrive in Missouri and produce wine similar to his favorite French styles. After a meeting and tasting with Dressel, Hamby was set on Crimson Cabernet and bought enough to plant 2 acres (which has now expanded to 3). “And then I tried the [Cabernet Doré], and I’m not necessarily a white wine fan, but I fell in love with the white wine, too.” Hamby says. Hamby bought 1 acre of Cabernet Doré, and LaChance became one of the only vineyards in the state to grow it (he's since added 2 additional acres). The idea was to make just enough wine for
himself, but he quickly realized that the minimum number of grapevines he had to order would produce vastly more wine that he alone could drink. “So, I decided to grow a little bit more and start a small winery,” Hamby says. “Then I got carried away, and now we’re planting every year.” LaChance’s first Crimson Cabernet was bottled in September, less than six months after the winery opened for business. Thus far it has been well received by customers, Hamby says. In addition to Dixon’s work at Noboleis, he also makes wine for LaChance, where the connection to the crosses was made. At Noboleis, Dixon says his limited work with Crimson Cabernet has so far yielded good results. “It grows more like Norton, from what we’ve seen in the past two years,” he says. “It’s very disease-resistant and seems to be pretty cold-hardy. But when I harvest it, it tastes more like vinifera; it’s more like the Cabernet Sauvignon parent. It’s a smaller grape, and it’s got some nice tannin structure, which is really hard to find in hybrids. The flavors are rock solid – I really like the body and the structure that we’re getting out of that wine.” Unfortunately, the 2015 vintage was ravaged by birds, and much of it was lost. “We ended up having to [harvest] it early, or we would have lost it all,” Dixon says. Because of this year’s small crop and the early harvest, Noboleis’ plan is to wait another year to release its first run of Crimson Cabernet. A small amount is aging in barrels and will be blended with other reds. Dixon is hopeful that next year’s vintage, with the protection of bird netting, will find the wine’s stand-alone potential and full character. Using a long, elegant wine thief, Mark Blumenberg coaxes his Crimson Cabernet 2015 vintage out of a barrel and empties it into glasses for Lucian Dressel and his son, Joseph. They swirl the wine in the glass, deeply inhale and let it linger on the nose before Dressel announces his contentment. It’s a proud moment for Blumenberg, owner of Blumenhof Winery in Dutzow, Missouri, who first met Dressel in the ’70s, a few years after Dressel bought Mount Pleasant Winery. “Lucian was making wine that was more along the lines of European wines at that time,” Blumenberg says. “I developed my palate on French wines. The first really great bottle of wine I had was a ’67 Château Léoville-Las Cases, and it was just astonishing. From then, I was hooked.” When Dressel introduced Crimson Cabernet, Blumenberg was eager to add it to a portion of the winery’s 25 acres. In 2013, Blumenberg bottled Missouri’s first vintage of Crimson Cabernet. Although the wine was good, the volume of grapes harvested wasn’t up to par with what he had expected, likely because of vine immaturity. Despite the lackluster crop, Blumenberg didn’t give up on the new grape. For the winery’s second vintage, 2015, volume was comparable to Blumenhof’s other Cabernet varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, Blumenberg says. “The encouraging thing about that is we got great numbers on Crimson Cabernet despite all the rain,” he says. “It had high sugars, moderate acid levels and what I consider to be manageable pHs. Those are the three key parameters for harvesting.” Because he’s only worked with Crimson Cabernet for two vintages, Blumenberg says he hasn’t gotten to know the grape well enough to predict its success over time: “It’s still early, and because every year is so different, every vintage has its own unique characteristic.” Crimson Cabernet and Cabernet Doré were created to enhance the very best characteristics from their parent grapes to produce wines that would thrive in Missouri. In the coming years, winemakers will put these grapes to the test in the state’s harsh climate, remaining hopeful that a bit of French character will find its home in local soil – and, of course, wine glasses. Noboleis Vineyards, 100 Hemsath Road, Augusta, Missouri, 636.482.4500, noboleisvineyards.com LaChance Vineyards, 12237 Peter Moore Lane, De Soto, Missouri, 636.586.2777, lachancevineyards.com Blumenhof Winery, 13699 S. Missouri Highway 94, Dutzow, Missouri, 636.433.2245, blumenhof.com
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I WIsh I KneW...
7 fresh and fun ideas for mother’s day brunch
Written by Daniel Puma
1300 n lindbergh Blvd | st. louis, Mo 63132 (314) 938-5656 | www.stlkolache.com
spring salad. Mother’s Day lands
smack in the middle of spring. A light and refreshing salad is the perfect palate cleanser between courses or as a starter for a celebratory brunch spread. An abundance of vegetables are in season in May: Try tender butter lettuce with crisped bacon lardons, shaved multicolored asparagus – green, purple and white – roasted morel mushrooms, apricot wedges and crumbled goat cheese. A charred ramp vinaigrette will bring it all together.
quiche. A quintessential brunch item, quiche can be a showstopper if executed with a
touch of creativity. Avoid overloading your quiche with too many ingredients. Excluding the seasoned base custard and crust, quiches generally comprise a cheese, meat and vegetable. Get creative with your trios – taleggio, crisped pancetta and arugula; manchego, chorizo and fresh corn; Emmental, crisped speck and mushrooms; Gruyère, country ham and leeks.
salmon lox. A bagel with lox is about as good – and simple – as it gets for breakfast. Switch up and make it a salad by slicing thick rounds of heirloom tomatoes, seasoned with salt and pepper, and topping with a heap of shaved cured salmon. Garnish with capers, chopped red onion, everything-bagel croutons and a drizzle of dill crème fraîche. eggs benedict. Channel your south-of-the-border side with eggs Benedict inspired by the flavors of Mexico. Layer homemade arepas, roasted poblano peppers and soft-poached eggs, topped off with a smoky mezcal-spiked hollandaise. A delicate garnish of queso fresco and fresh cilantro will round out the dish beautifully.
tropical bellini. Traditionally, a Bellini is a mixture of one part peach purée and two parts sparkling wine. Give your Mother’s Day brunch a tropical flair by making your own guava, papaya, mango or purple dragon fruit purée. Be sure to strain the purée mixture before creating the cocktail to remove any unwanted pulp or seeds. scones. These breakfast morsels are simple to make and easy to customize. Try adding chopped fresh rosemary and grated lemon zest to the dough to brighten things up. After baking, coat each scone with a lavender-infused pastry glaze. Want something less herbaceous? Bake the scones with diced apple and sharp Cheddar, then serve with a side of orange marmalade. oatmeal brÛlÉe. A personal favorite for brunch, plate up some brown sugar and cinnamon oatmeal. Sprinkle with an even coating of granulated sugar and then torch it to melt the sugar and emulate the crust that makes crème brûlée so tasty. Garnish with some chopped walnuts, dried apricots and dried cranberries. Finish with a drizzle of vanilla crème anglaise.
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Upgrade brUnch with a s i x - c o U r s e m e a l p a i r e d w i t h l o ca l w i n e
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STOry And reCiPeS By SHAnnOn WeBer Wine PAiringS By HilAry HedgeS FOOd PHOTOgrAPHy By JOnATHAn gAymAn
Sure signs of spring and early summer: flowers in bloom, a freshness in the air and brunch invitations abounding. Celebrate the delightful turning of the seasons with a midday gathering built around spring’s bounty. A crown of lamb set against an herbed wild rice stuffing and bright arugula pesto seems quintessentially of the season; surround it with bright-red radishes, a rainbow of roasted carrots and greens galore, and you have yourself a spread ideal for elevating any Saturday or Sunday morning into something spectacular. Brunch should be as relaxed for the host as it is for the guests: This menu is designed to let that happen. Take the stress out of things by toasting nuts and
making sauces, dressings, fruit compotes, even entire dishes ahead of time – the rice stuffing holds well overnight, and Pavlovas are still perfect the second day. Assemble everything the next morning and throw a few things in the oven, and you’ll have a gorgeous table with virtually no mess in the kitchen. And because brunch isn’t complete without refreshing drinks, each of the following courses includes local wine pairings. The wines were selected by Feast’s resident On the Shelf wine columnist, Hilary Hedges, who is the director of sales and marketing and assistant winemaker at Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City’s West Bottoms. (Turn to p. 37 to see what else she’s recommending this month.)
This appetizer offers a simple and elegant way to start brunch. Don’t limit yourself to the standard red bunches at your grocery; radishes should be all over right now, so head to your local farmers’ market and you’re bound to find beautiful options. Serves | 8 to 10 | herbed Anchovy butter
1 4 ¼ 3 1
cup (2 sticks) room temperature unsalted butter oil-packed anchovy fillets, drained and mashed with a fork to form a paste cup finely chopped fresh parsley leaves Tbsp finely chopped fresh chives zest of 2 lemons, finely grated tsp kosher salt
to Serve
1 3 to 4
cup kosher salt bunches radishes, greens attached, washed and patted dry
| Preparation – Herbed Anchovy Butter | In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients with a spatula until homogenous. Cover tightly and chill 2 hours. | To Serve | Bring herbed anchovy butter to room temperature. Pour salt into a low bowl large enough to fit radishes. set radishes on top of salt and serve alongside butter.
NV It’s easy to see why this dry rosé from Adam Puchta Winery is the owner’s favorite. It’s a full-bodied wine, made from 100-percent Chambourcin grapes aged in stainless steel. It has a beautiful color and vibrant aromas of melon and berries. The dry rosé is fruit-forward, with bright flavors of strawberry and raspberry. Its soft, light finish complements the spiciness and saltiness of the radishes and earthiness from the herbed anchovy butter, and it’s best served slightly chilled. The rosé is a 2015 Jefferson Cup winner; it also won silver medals at the 2015 Missouri Wine Competition and the Mid-American Wine Competition. AdAm PuchtA Winery 1947 Frene Creek roAd, HerMAnn, MIssourI, 573.486.5596, AdAMPuCHTAWIne.CoM 96
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c aper-dill mi ni scones with smoked salmon and whipped goat cheese Smoked salmon not your cup of tea? Make these scones with cherry tomato halves in place of salmon, or mix it up and make both. Yields | 24 pieces | Caper-Dill Mini SConeS
1½ 1½ 1 ¼ ¼ 5 2⁄3 1⁄3 2 2
cups all-purpose flour, plus more for flouring surface tsp granulated sugar tsp baking powder tsp baking soda tsp kosher salt Tbsp chilled unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes cup heavy cream, plus more as needed cup tightly packed, finely chopped fresh dill fronds Tbsp chopped capers tsp poppy seeds
WhippeD Goat CheeSe
4 7 to 8
oz softened goat cheese Tbsp heavy cream
to Serve
8 2 to 3
oz thinly sliced smoked salmon, divided Tbsp fresh dill fronds, divided (for garnish)
| Preparation – Caper-Dill Mini Scones | Preheat oven to 375°F. Line a rimless baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder and soda, and salt. Toss butter cubes with flour mixture; use fingers or a pastry cutter to work butter into flour until only pea-size pieces remain and mixture resembles damp sand. Make a well in center; add cream and mix with fork to gently incorporate dry ingredients until a shaggy dough forms. Add dill, capers and poppy seeds and use hands to incorporate until evenly distributed. If mixture is dry, add more cream, 1 tablespoon at a time, until mixture just comes together when kneaded. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and pat into a 1-inch-thick square. Cut into 1-inch-wide squares and transfer to prepared baking sheet. Bake scones until lightly golden brown on top and puffed, 18 to 20 minutes. Remove and allow to cool completely.
| Preparation – Whipped Goat Cheese | In a medium bowl, add goat cheese. Whisk in 6 tablespoons cream until smooth and creamy. Add remaining cream until mixture has reached desired consistency. | To Serve | Using a sharp, nonserrated knife, slice scones in half through center horizontally; trim as needed so halves have a flat surface. Top each half with a dollop of goat cheese and smoked salmon and garnish each with dill frond. Serve.
Hermannhof Vineyards’ dry 2012 Vidal Blanc is made from 35-year-old estate-grown vines, giving it bright and intense flavors. It’s crisp and clean with aromas of peach, pineapple and a touch of citrus. This wine is bursting with tropical fruit, and notes of lemon zest linger on the finish. The citrus flavors pair nicely with the smoked salmon, as if you squeezed a slice of lemon over the dish. It’s well-balanced with a nice, midpalate mouthfeel. herMannhof vineyarDS 330 E. FIRST ST., HERMAnn, MISSoURI, 573.486.5959, HERMAnnHoF.CoM
Pea Shoot, Feta and toaSted almond SPring Salad with lemon-rhubarb Vinaigrette Pea shoots are a sweet addition to a spring salad, and they also look beautiful on the plate. Serves | 8 | lemon-rhubarb Vinaigrette
5 to 6 1⁄3 ½ 1⁄3
Tbsp rhubarb syrup (see roasted rhubarb in Pavolva bar recipe on p. 102) cup fresh lemon juice cup grapeseed oil cup olive oil sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Spring Salad
8
4 to 5 6 4 2⁄3
oz dandelion greens, thick stems discarded, leaves chopped into bite-size pieces oz baby arugula oz pea shoots oz crumbled Feta cheese cup toasted almond slivers
| Preparation – Lemon-Rhubarb Vinaigrette | In a medium bowl, whisk rhubarb syrup, lemon juice and both oils together until emulsified. season to taste with salt and pepper and chill, covered, for 1 hour.
| Preparation – Spring Salad | In a large bowl, toss dandelion greens, arugula and pea shoots. divide onto plates and top with Feta and almond slivers. Jowler Creek’s 2014 Vignoles, made from 100-percent estate-grown grapes, is vibrantly fruit-forward with flavors of stone fruit, such as peach and apricot, and aromas of candied fruit. It has just a slight amount of sweetness to it, making it a nice complement to the Feta in this dish. The saltiness of the cheese heightens the sense of sweetness, so it’s a good idea to go with a semisweet wine like this one. Light-bodied and crisp, this wine’s bright flavors linger on the palate. Jowler Creek Vineyard & winery 16905 JowLer Creek road, PLaTTe CITy, MIssourI, 816.858.5528, JowLerCreek.CoM 98
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drizzle lemon-rhubarb vinaigrette over each plate and serve.
Shirred eggs are easy… once you get the hang of it, that is. Practice a few times with your oven to nail exactly the timing you’ll need to keep your yolks runny and your whites set. Always begin with room-temperature eggs and vegetables to keep things cooking evenly. Serves | 8 |
1 ½ 8 8 2 to 3
unsalted butter (for greasing ramekins) bunch pencil-thin asparagus, thicker stems removed, cut into 2-inch lengths cup finely grated English Cheddar, divided sea salt and freshly ground black pepper large eggs, at room temperature Tbsp heavy cream, divided sweet paprika, to taste Tbsp finely chopped fresh parsley leaves (to serve)
| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F and set rack in middle. Butter bottom and sides of 8 4-ounce ramekins. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil; as water is heating, fill sink with ice water. When water reaches a boil, add asparagus and blanch for 1 minute; remove with a mesh strainer and transfer to ice bath to stop cooking. When cool, transfer to a plate and pat dry. Add asparagus to each ramekin, just enough to form a single layer on bottom. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon Cheddar over asparagus and season with salt and pepper. Carefully crack 1 egg into each ramekin, centering yolk and spreading white out toward sides. Pour 1 tablespoon cream over top of each egg, spreading it out evenly. Dust with a little paprika and season again with salt and pepper. Place individual ramekins directly on middle oven rack and cook until whites are just set and yolk is still runny, 15 to 17 minutes. Remove and let cool slightly.
| To Serve | Sprinkle eggs with a little chopped parsley and serve individual ramekins on plates alongside toast and herbed anchovy butter (recipe on p. 96) if desired.
NV Pairing wine with egg dishes can sometimes be a challenge, but a refreshing sparkling wine is often a good match. Les Bourgeois Vineyards’ NV Brut, primarily made from Vidal Blanc grapes, is crisp and dry with a hint of citrus. Light notes of tropical fruit stay with you until the next sip. This sparkling wine, which is made using méthode champenoise, won silver at the 2015 Missouri Wine Competition and earned a medal of excellence at the 2015 Jefferson Cup. Les Bourgeois Vineyards 12847 W. HigHWAy BB, RoCHePoRT, MiSSouRi, 800.690.1830, MiSSouRiWiNe.CoM Inspired Local Food Culture
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Westphalia Vineyardsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; 2012 Norton Reserve is an ideal match for this rich dish; it could even be used as a marinade for the lamb. This full-bodied, sulfite-free dry wine has aromas of dark fruits, spice and oak, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s made from estate-grown grapes. It has a burst of fruit on the front, like biting into a black cherry. Flavors of rhubarb and raspberry and a slight earthiness give it a nice, full mouthfeel. Aged in Missouri oak barrels for one year, this wine has a medium tannin structure and oak notes on the finish. Westphalia Vineyards 106 E. MAIN ST., WESTphAlIA, MISSouRI, 573.455.2000, WESTphAlIAVINEyARdS.coM
Crown of Lamb with aruguLa Pesto, Cardamom-ChamomiLe gLazed Carrots and herbed wiLd riCe stuffing
Ask your butcher to trim your lamb racks for you to save time, especially if you’ve never done it before. There’s a trick to the twine, too: Separate it into thin sections of three strands each to better fit this relatively small cut of meat. The twine will hold steady but not make too much of a mark in the sides. Look for organic carrots with their greens intact; they’re smaller and thinner, and a quick scrub beats having to get the vegetable peeler out. The greens will factor into the weight, so ask your grocer to cut them off (or tear them off yourself) so you get an accurate measurement. You can also add vibrancy to your table with rainbow carrots. Make the stuffing a day ahead if you need to – just like the bread stuffing you make on Thanksgiving. Simply warm it, covered, in the oven, stirring occasionally until heated through. Wait to add fresh herbs until just before stuffing the lamb. Serves | 8 | ArugulA Pesto
1 1 ¼ 1 ½ 2⁄3
cup loosely packed baby arugula cup loosely packed fresh parsley leaves cup loosely packed fresh mint leaves clove garlic, chopped cup pine nuts cup olive oil sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Herbed Wild rice stuffing
1¼ 5 1 1 ½ ¾ 2 ¾ 2⁄3
cups long-grain wild rice (not quick-cooking) cups unsalted chicken broth tsp kosher salt cup long-grain white rice cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus more for greasing baking dish cup small-diced shallots cups finely chopped fresh parsley leaves, divided cup plus 3 Tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves, divided cup toasted pine nuts, divided
cArdAmom-cHAmomile glAzed cArrots
2 4 2 4 1 1 2 3
Tbsp olive oil, plus more for oiling pan Tbsp unsalted butter Tbsp granulated sugar pods cardamom cup fresh orange juice (from 2 to 3 large oranges) cup strong chamomile tea (brewed with 3 bags or equivalent amount of loose tea) Tbsp honey lbs (4 bunches) organic carrots, scrubbed, greens trimmed to ½ inch kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
croWn of lAmb
¼ 2 1 1 ½ 2 2 2
cup Dijon mustard Tbsp fresh thyme leaves clove garlic, minced tsp kosher salt tsp freshly ground black pepper pinch chile flakes Tbsp olive oil, divided 6-foot sections cotton kitchen twine, separated into 3 strands each 8-bone-racks lamb (about 1 to 1½ lbs each), frenched
| Preparation – Arugula Pesto | In the bowl of a food processor,
Once rice is cooked, in a large skillet over medium heat, heat butter; add shallots and cook until softened and fragrant, stirring frequently, 5 minutes. Add cooked rice to shallot mixture and toss to coat; add 1½ cups parsley, ¾ cup mint and ½ cup pine nuts, stirring until evenly distributed. Transfer to baking dish, cover tightly with foil and cook for 40 minutes. Uncover and cook for another 20 minutes until crispy on top. Keep warm and reserve remaining parsley, mint and pine nuts for serving.
| Preparation – Cardamom-Chamomile Glazed Carrots | Preheat oven to 400°F and brush a lipped sheet pan with a little oil. In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat, melt butter. Add sugar and stir to dissolve, then add cardamom pods and heat, stirring frequently, 2 minutes. Add orange juice and chamomile tea, stir to incorporate and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until reduced and syrupy, 35 minutes, stirring occasionally. Watch carefully and stir constantly in final minutes to avoid burning. While glaze is simmering, whisk reserved olive oil and honey together; toss with carrots to coat. Lay carrots in a single layer on prepared pan lengthwise, tips facing inward and thick stems at the edge for even cooking. Season generously with salt and pepper. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes until tender. Remove carrots from oven and transfer into a large baker or lipped platter. Pour glaze over roasted carrots and season with salt and pepper. Keep warm until ready to serve.
| Preparation – Crown of Lamb | Once carrots are finished roasting, reduce oven heat to 375°F. In a small bowl, whisk together Dijon mustard, thyme leaves, garlic, salt, pepper, chile flakes and 1 tablespoon olive oil until blended. Set aside. Brush inside of a Bundt pan all over with remaining olive oil. Cut a 6-foot length of twine into 3 equal sections. Lay lamb racks next to each other, fat-side up, and use 1 section of twine to tie the racks together in the middle of endbones. Stand racks up, bend into a circle, and secure other side in the same manner, fat-side facing inward. Use the third section to tie a “tightrope” between the 2 tied sections to pull lamb racks securely into a circle. Circle base of lamb crown 3 times around with remaining 6-foot length of twine to face both ends inward toward each other, then transfer crown to prepared Bundt pan.
add arugula, parsley, mint and garlic; pulse until finely chopped and blended, 5 to 6 times. Add pine nuts and continue to pulse until blended. With motor on, slowly stream in olive oil, scraping sides of bowl down as needed until everything is smooth and Use a basting brush to brush outside all over with mustard combined. Season to taste with salt and pepper, place in a mixture. Place in oven on middle rack and cook until lidded container and refrigerate until ready to use. thermometer registers an internal temperature of 130°F, about 9 to 12 minutes per pound. Remove from oven and tent with foil | Preparation – Herbed Wild Rice Stuffing | In a large saucepan or cover with another large metal bowl to trap heat. Allow to over high heat, combine wild rice, broth and salt and bring to a rest, 15 to 20 minutes. boil. Cover, reduce heat and simmer, 30 minutes. Stir in white rice, cover again and increase heat to high until mixture returns | To Serve | Just before serving, stir in remaining parsley and to a boil; decrease heat to a simmer once again and cook until mint in stuffing, reserving 1 tablespoon each for garnish. done, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from heat, covered, 5 minutes, Spread a third of stuffing on platter as a foundation for crown then fluff with fork. of lamb, then place roast in center. Pile remaining stuffing in While rice is cooking, preheat oven to 350°F. Butter bottom and sides of a 13-by-9-inch glass baking dish.
center of crown. Garnish with remaining pine nuts, parsley and mint leaves. Serve lamb and stuffing with roasted carrots and arugula pesto.
To make vanilla sugar, simply add superfine sugar to a large Mason jar, add two vanilla beans, shake and let sit for a few days until the vanilla has infused the sugar. yields | 24 pieces | Mixed-Berry CoMpote
24 6 2
oz mixed fresh or frozen berries Tbsp granulated sugar juice of 2 lemons Tbsp unsalted butter
Mini pavlovas
6 1¾ 1 1½
large egg whites, room temperature cups superfine vanilla sugar Tbsp cornstarch tsp white wine vinegar
roasted rhuBarB
1½ 1
lbs rhubarb, in 1-inch pieces cup plus 2 Tbsp granulated sugar
vanilla Whipped CreaM
2 2 1 1
cups heavy cream Tbsp granulated sugar tsp pure vanilla extract 11-oz jar lemon curd, room temperature (to serve)
| Preparation – Mixed-Berry Compote | In a large saucepan over medium heat, add all ingredients; stir to combine. Heat until sugar has dissolved and berries are warm and have released their juices but still hold their shape. Set aside.
Made from part of the 2015 Missouri Wine Competition’s C.V. Riley Award-winning 2013 Savage Norton, Chandler Hill Vineyards’ 2013 Crimson Arrow Port is intense and jammy. It has aromas of cherry with light chocolate notes. This sweet dessert wine evokes flavors of plum and fig, and chocolate notes linger on the palate. It was aged for 13 months in 3-year-old Hungarian oak barrels. At 20 percent ABV, this dark and deeply flavorful wine will complement the slight tartness of the mixed-berry compote. Chandler hill vineyards 596 DeFIANCe RoAD, DeFIANCe, MISSouRI, 636.798.2675, CHANDLeRHILLVINeyARDS.CoM 102
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| Preparation – Mini Pavlovas | Preheat oven to 300°F and set racks at lower and middle positions. Cut 2 lengths of parchment paper the size of baking sheets. Draw 6 3½-inch circles (use a pint glass as a guide) on each length, for a total of 12 circles. Line 2 rimless baking sheets with prepared parchment paper, pencil-marks down. In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat egg whites until they form soft peaks. Add sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, to allow sugar to dissolve between additions, being careful not to overbeat. Sprinkle cornstarch and vinegar
over glossy meringue and fold to combine. Dollop meringue into center of each drawn circle using a large spoon; use back of spoon to smooth around edges, then work from center to spread Pavlova to marked outline, leaving an indentation in center. Place in oven, reduce heat to 250°F and bake for 45 minutes. Turn oven off and let sit in oven for another 45 minutes, then remove pans and allow to cool to room temperature on cooling racks.
| Preparation – Roasted Rhubarb | Preheat oven to 400°F. In a large bowl, toss rhubarb and sugar and let sit for 10 minutes. Pour mixture evenly into a 13-by-9-inch glass baking dish. Cover tightly with foil and roast for 30 minutes until very tender. uncover and cook for 5 minutes more, being careful not to let juices burn. Remove and allow to cool to room temperature.
| Preparation – Vanilla Whipped Cream | When ready to serve, add cream, sugar and vanilla to a bowl and beat until whipped, taking care not to overwhip. Place in chilled serving bowl.
| To Serve | Top Pavlovas with a dollop of whipped cream. Guests can swirl lemon curd into whipped cream or simply top with berries, rhubarb or a combination.
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UNWINE-D. In honor of our annual Local Wine Issue, we invited our Instagram followers to share photos of regional wineries this month – shots of your favorite bottles, glasses and unforgettable vineyard views – by using the hashtag #feastgram. Learn about how local wine is evolving thanks to the work of the university of Missouri’s Grape and Wine Institute on p. 72. Then, flip to p. 83 to learn how vintners are making French-style wines. On p. 64 you’ll meet a cooper turning out old-fashioned barrels in Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, and to wrap up the issue, we share how to plan a spectacular spring brunch with local wine pairings on p. 95.
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| 1 | amanda @akittynamemandy Cheers to great friends. #ChandlerHill #Rosé (at Chandler Hill Vineyards) | 2 | elizabeth fleitz @ejfleitz My Friday morning > your #Friday morning @Noboleis_Vineyards. #Wine #Weekend | 3 | Pizzeoli @pizzeoli Hanging with James @33wine. (at 33 Wine Shop & Bar)
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| 4 | Gus Gus fun bus @gusgusfunbus Chaumette Winery, Ste. Genevieve, MO. #MOWines #SteGenevieve | 5 | cheyenne bure @cheyennebure Wine, beer and cheese sampler. Perfect winery day. (at Les Bourgeois Vineyards) | 6 | Galen @gayren Abiding today. (at Röbller Vineyard & Winery) | 7 | James @jsarino Enjoying the great spring weather today at @littlehillswinery.
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| 8 | bryan hadley @rebirth_n_renaissance_st_louis #STL #WineCountry #CaptureTheMoment (at Augusta Winery)
|5|
| 9 | effie kessler thayer @stleffie Montelle for a two-wheeled adventure! #Sportster #HarleyDavidson (at Montelle Winery) | 10 | katlyn moncada @katlynmoncada Chocolate and wine pairings on the patio make for a lovely day. (at Holy Grail Winery)
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Want to see your photos in the June issue of Feast?
In honor of new spring and summer menus, our focus next month turns to seasonal cocktails. We want to see the local spirits, fresh fruit, housemade bitters and shrub cocktails you’re sipping. To submit your photos for consideration, simply include the hashtag #feastgram and tag @feastmag on your Instagram photos beginning Sun., May 1.
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PHOTOGRAPHy COuRTESy INSTAGRAM uSERS
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dw
ia
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