June 2022 Feast Magazine by Feast Magazine

22 Spins on STL Staples

Old Webster New Flavors

5 Recipes That Lean Local j u n e 2 02 2

Rediscover the

CLASSICS

PeersStore

feastmagazine.com / jun e 2 0 2 2

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Join Feast Magazine as

at the

Garden

we celebrate the release of the June issue highlighting St. Louis Remixes! Enjoy live music, tasty bites from local food trucks and beverages from the Canteen – all while honoring the foodand-drink pros who are reimagining the local culinary scene!

Friday, June 3 5-7pm

PRESENT

For more information, visit feastmagazine.com/garden 4

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ED BY

double the classics, double the fun. See two of the world’s most famous operas this spring!

carmen She was a force of nature. He got swept up. May 21 – June 25

the

magic flute

It’s open season for enchantment. May 28 – June 26

Tickets start at just $25! Scan me to learn more

ExperienceOpera.org | (314) 961-0644

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/ 11 / the dish Veggie Slinger at The Crow’s Nest

/ 12 / DINE & DRINK

Mad Mexica, Spoonful and The Westchester

/ 15 / SHOP HERE Grand Spirits Bottle Co.

/ 16 / hot blocks The Old Orchard District

/ 18 / healthy appetite Arepas Multicolor

/ 19 / one on one Kristin Liu and Mary Nguyen of The Kitchen

/ 20 /

mystery shopper Long Hots

/21 / one on one Matthew Fuller of STL Toasted

/ 22 / quick fix Summer Squash Tart / 23 / pro picks Travis Dillon of Ted Drewes Frozen Custard

/ 24 / SUGAR RUSH Espresso, Chocolate & Cacao Nib Shortbread

St. Louis classics remixed Dig into creative riffs on signature St. Louis dishes.

/ 34 / pump up your pantry Put locally made products to work in these five recipes.

/ 41 / restaurants, retooled These five iconic spots have been reimagined for the next generation. 6

feastmagazine.com / jun e 2 0 2 2

Kenrick’s is the best place to make any meal or occasion

DELICIOUS.

06/03 Feast at the Garden Fri., June 3, 5 to 7pm; 9 Mile Garden, 9375 Gravois Road, Affton, Missouri Join Feast as we celebrate the release of the June issue highlighting spins on St. Louis classics! Enjoy live music, taste bites from local food trucks and beverages from the Canteen – all while honoring the food-and-drink pros who are reimagining the local culinary scene!

at the

Garden Friday, June 3 5-7pm

06/25 Schnucks Cooks: Summer Squash Tart Sat., June 25, 3 to 6pm; $55; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, 12332 Manchester Road, Des Peres, Missouri; nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/ cooking-school In this class, we will explore ways to enjoy the bounties of your summer harvest and increase your vegetable cooking knowledge. We’ll learn how to make a summer squash tart, risottostuffed tomatoes, chilled red pepper soup with sour cream and cherry buttermilk clafoutis.

09/18 Feast & St. Louis Post-Dispatch Go! Magazine Par Tee Sun., Sept. 18, 1pm; $20; Family Golf and Learning Center, 3717 Tree Court Industrial Blvd., Kirkwood, Missouri; tixtoparty.com/e/feast-go-magazinepar-tee-2 Join Feast Magazine and St. Louis Post-Dispatch Go! Magazine for a Sunday afternoon of food and beverage sampling at Family Golf and Learning Center. Guests will enjoy samples and outdoor games while walking along the Family Golf and Learning Center's par-3 nine-hole golf course.

4324 Weber Road St. Louis, MO 63123

314-631-2440 kenricks.com

j u ne 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

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june

st. louis

2022

Volume 12 / Issue 06

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EDITORIAL

Editor in chief

managing editor

Emily Adams, eadams@laduenews.com

Mary Andino, mandino@feastmagazine.com

art director

digital editor

Dawn Deane, ddeane@laduenews.com

Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com

sales vice president of sales

Kevin Hart, khart@stlpostmedia.com media Strategist

Erin Wood, ewood@feastmagazine.com

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Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Rich Hudson at rhudson@post-dispatch.com.

editorial intern

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Alecia Humphreys Contributing Writers

Amanda Bretz, Aubrey Byron, Amy Feese, Teresa Floyd, Mary Mack, Nancy Stiles, Mabel Suen, Shannon Weber, Gaby Weir Vera

ART Contributing Photographers

Judd Demaline, Teresa Floyd, Christina Kling-Garrett, Sean Locke, Jacklyn Meyer, Paige McDonald, Ben Nickelson, J. Pollack Photography, Jennifer Silverberg, Mabel Suen

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Locally Owned and Operated Like us on

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and

on the cover Toasted ravioli from STL Toasted by Judd Demaline table of contents The Lou sandwich from Navin’s BBQ by Christina Kling-Garrett

editor’s letter St. Louis, you’re so classic.

Longtime favorites, such as The Parkmoor Drive-In, The Tenderloin

From the cheese that launched a

Room and more, are getting new life

thousand arguments to the frozen

thanks to the entrepreneurs behind

custard that rules every STL summer,

them. And on p. 16, explore the dining

the Gateway City is defined by its

renaissance occurring in Webster

beloved culinary traditions.

Groves’ Old Orchard district.

Luckily, our food scene is also

To bring that refreshed spirit into

constantly kept vibrant by the local

your own kitchen, turn to p. 34, where

makers and chefs who regularly

Shannon Weber reveals five creative

reimagine St. Louis’ signature staples.

ways to utilize locally made products this season. From hot honey fruit

This edition of Feast is dedicated to

salad to loaded mole polenta fries,

those who are making what’s old, new

these recipes let the local ingredients

again. Starting on p. 25, the Feast

you know and love shine.

staff sink their teeth into inspired interpretations of the metro area’s

Speaking of local classics, check out

most timeless dishes – from pork

p. 23, where Travis Dillon, co-owner of

steak nachos to St. Paul pizzas to

Ted Drewes Frozen Custard, shares

gooey butter kolache and more.

his favorite St. Louis summertime activities. I hope you’ll join us this

And if, like me, you consistently keep

month in celebrating the culinary

toasted ravs in your St. Louis dining

roots our city is known for – as well as

rotation, don’t miss p. 21, where

the innovative pros breaking the mold.

Amanda Bretz interviews one half of the duo changing the ravioli game

Cheers,

in the city. It’s not just the dishes that are getting a revamp in the area. Flip to p. 41 for our feature about five iconic restaurants that are being

Emily Adams

emily.adams@feastmagazine.com

renewed for the next generation. j u ne 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

PROMOTION

Opt in to Good For You or learn more at schnucks.com/ goodforyou

GET OUT AND GRILL Summertime means all things grilling. With the heat and humidity that comes in the Midwest summer months, grilling is the perfect way to enjoy delicious meals without heating up your kitchen. When we think of summer grilling all the usual suspects come to mind focusing on meat like chicken, pork steaks, burgers, brats and hot dogs. Just because these are top of mind, doesn’t mean they should limit what you can create on the grill. Think outside the box and use the grill in place of the stove or oven for your

scan here

GRILLED CLAMS WITH CORN PEPPER RELISH SERVES 4 4 whole corn cobs 1 red bell pepper, quartered and seeds removed 1 leek, washed and halved 15 oz can white beans, drained and rinsed ½ cup finely chopped celery 1 Tbsp fresh parsley, chopped

½ cup finely chopped shallots ½ cup white wine vinegar 2 Tbsp honey 4 pounds little neck clams, scrubbed 2 Tbsp butter ½ tsp red cayenne pepper

summer meals. Fresh seafood and veggies are two of my favorite things to grill. The char from the grill adds a depth of flavor that transforms vegetables and fish in ways that can’t be created inside. Plus it’s another great way to get more Good For You foods into your meals without getting stuck in the same-meal routine. Using grilling grates, wood planks or foil packs like we did in this month’s recipe can offer ways to explore more on the grill. If you are looking for new ideas to get out and grill, pick up the latest edition of Simply Schnucks, filled with more grilling recipes. So as the weather warms up, let your creativity run wild and enjoy all the grill can offer.

PREPARATION Preheat grill to high and oil grates. Grill corn cobs, red pepper and leek flipping occasionally until tender and charred lightly, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to cutting board and cool for 5 minutes. Cut kernels from the cobs with a sharp knife. Dice bell pepper and slice leeks. To a medium bowl transfer grilled vegetables, beans, celery and parsley. In a small pot bring shallots, vinegar and honey to a simmer, about 5-6 minutes. Pour half the mixture over the bowl of vegetables, toss to combine, season with salt and pepper to taste. Let stand at room temperature for 10 minutes. Take 2 - 12x8 inch sheets of heavy-duty aluminum foil and lay parallel on top of each other. Place cleaned clams in the center of foil and bring edges up over top to create a pouch, pour remaining liquid mixture in, add butter and cayenne pepper. Crimp

SPONSORED CONTENT BY

ALLISON PRIMO

SCHNUCKS REGISTERED DIETITIAN

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edges to create a tight seal. Place pouch on grill at high heat, cook until clams are just popping open; about 6-8 minutes. Serve clams immediately with charred corn pepper relish.

the dish / DINE & DRINK / SHOP HERE / hot blocks / healthy appetite / mystery shopper / QUICK FIX / SUGAR RUSH

Like your coffee and your metal black? The Crow’s Nest takes the best meal of the weekend and serves it with style.

at The Crow’s Nest Written by Aubrey Byron / Photos by judd demaline

MAPLEWOOD, MO. At The Crow’s Nest, brunch takes a different form than the average restaurant. Diners who love day drinking and hearty breakfast meals but who don’t fit in with the sometimes stuffy brunch atmosphere can rejoice at Metal Brunch on Saturdays and Sundays. “We don’t like to take ourselves too seriously,” says chef RJ Marsh. The lengthy Metal Brunch menu includes Decappetizers, Mercyful Plates, Judas Feasts and A La Carnage. Yet despite references to carnage, The Crow’s Nest has plenty of options to cater to vegetarian and vegan diners. One of the bestselling dishes is the veggie slinger, a spin on the St. Louis diner classic. The dish starts with a housemade three-bean veggie patty created from a combination of kidney, black and garbanzo beans, which is then served on top of a bed of breakfast potatoes and covered with The Crow’s Nest’s meatless chili. The combo is first baked and then broiled to get a lightly crisped char on top. Once out of the oven, it’s topped with a rich and creamy jalapeño-Gouda cheese sauce made with 40 percent heavy cream and logs of aged, smoked Gouda that are shredded and melted into a pot with diced jalapeños and spices. The cheese sauce is easily the star of the dish and can also be found gracing many dishes across The Crow’s Nest’s menu. “The jalapeño-Gouda cheese sauce is the glue that holds The Crow’s Nest together,” Marsh says. Finally, the slinger is finished with a fried egg and a side of toasted bread from Maplewood neighbor The Blue Duck. In homage to the original late-night St. Louis diner invention, the slinger can also be ordered with a traditional hamburger patty. Just make sure to pair yours with a Staggerleemosa, which combines Champagne, orange juice and, fittingly, Stag beer. 7336 Manchester Road, Maplewood, Missouri, crowsneststl.com

j u ne 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

the dish / DINE & DRINK / SHOP HERE / hot blocks / healthy appetite / mystery shopper / QUICK FIX / SUGAR RUSH

Spoonful Story and photos by Mabel Suen

At Spoonful, St. Louis’ first Korean dessert café, visitors will find a vibrant array of sweet treats including bingsu, bubble tea, taiyaki and coffee. According to founder Monica Lee, eating the shop’s signature shaved ice is like stuffing your mouth full of freshly fallen snow that tastes like ice cream. The soft, fluffy bingsu comes with toppings such as strawberry, mango, Fruity Pebbles, matcha and injeolmi (roasted soybean powder), while bubble tea is available in a rainbow of flavors, such as taro milk tea and green apple with lychee. Housemade taiyaki, or Japanese-style fish-shaped cakes, come fresh from the griddle, taking on a crispy golden brown exterior with a chewy center filled with Nutella or sweet red bean paste. To pair with the confections, choose from Blueprint Coffee lattes with flavored syrups such as vanilla or lavender. 12943 Olive Blvd., St. Louis County, Missouri, facebook.com/spoonfuldessertcafe

Mad Mexica Story and photos by Mabel Suen

In the historic Soulard neighborhood, Mad Art Gallery owner Ron Buechele takes a deep dive into his own culinary heritage with a menu featuring Mexican street food. In 2015, the chef met his father – who had stage 4 cancer and wanted to connect with him – for the first time, and the two were able to spend two brief but meaningful years together. With Mad Mexica, which is named after the Indigenous Mexican tribe of which Buechele’s grandmother is a descendant, he explores his roots the best way he knows how: through his passion for food. A dominant feature of the menu is birria, which Buechele says is prepared in a Michoacán style rather than the popular Jalisco style that most people are familiar with – his version includes cascabel pepper and Mexican chocolate in the consommé. From week to week, Mad Mexica’s birria will feature various meats such as beef, lamb and goat, available in a taco, quesabirria, quesadilla or atop fries and ramen. 2727 S. 12th St., Soulard, St. Louis, Missouri, madmexstl.com 12

feastmagazine.com / jun e 2 0 2 2

The Westchester Written by Kasey Carlson / Photo by sean locke

Three friends have teamed up to bring farm-to-table cuisine to the residents of Chesterfield. Chef Matthew Glickert (BC’s Kitchen, Sugarfire Smoke House), bar manager Bryan Herr (Naked Vine) and proprietor John Cowling are the co-owners of The Westchester. While this strip-mall joint may look humble from the outside, the romantic interior is the setting for a menu of locally sourced dishes, ranging from duck fat truffle fries garnished with shaved Parmesan, chives and parsley to a dinner feature of pan-roasted salmon over creamy polenta with wild mushroom ragù, red wine sauce and green

RAINBOW

beans. Don’t miss out on the cocktail menu – it was constructed

10 pieces

by Ted Kilgore of Planter’s House fame.

100 mg thc

127 Chesterfield Towne Center, Chesterfield, Missouri, westchesterstl.com

Only at

ADE S WA St. Peters | Ellisville | Delmar The Grove | Cherokee

j u ne 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

PROMOTI ON

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

Steak and Corn Salad with Green Tahini Dressing

PRESENTED BY

SPRIG FORWARD: WHY H E R B S ARE MORE THAN GARNISHES S P O N S O R E D C O N T E N T BY B K AT H E R I N E L E W I S

SALAD INGREDIENTS 8 oz steak, cut of choice 2 ears of corn, shucked 1 shallot 1 cup grape or cherry tomatoes 1 large sweet potato 2 oz feta cheese

BASIL

CHIVES

MINT

ROSEMARY

Basil’s silky leaves bring a lightness to summertime favorites like caprese and bruschetta; they can even turn ho-hum tap water into a treat. From Thai basil to Genovese basil, the herb is filled with antioxidants, including beta carotene and lutein, which combat the free radicals that may lead to some cancers. Basil can also ease inflammation and lower blood sugar while improving mood and memory. It thrives in gardens and on windowsills alike, so get planting!

Along with garlic g lic and onions, onions chiv ves aree part of the allium family. amil Sometimes mistaken for scallions (which are, confusingly, also known as green onions), chives provide a subtle hint of onion and texture to dishes. Even though they’re more slender and delicate than other alliums, chives punch above their weight with health benefits: They’re an excellent source of vitamin K, which is crucial for bone health, and folate, which may help with cognitive function.

Known for its bright, fresh taste, mint is found in everything from soothing teas to rich sauces — and running rampant through gardens, if you’re not careful. This prolific plant comes in dozens of varieties, including chocolate mint and orange mint. Cooks usually reach for spearmint as peppermint can easily overwhelm dishes. There’s also evidence it does cleanup duty on a cellular level by sweeping away harmful bacteria that can damage major organs.

Rosemary is redolent of the woods, warm and earthy. Just taking in its beguiling aroma may help reduce stress and clear the mind. Even though rosemary needles are short and slender, they contain relatively large amounts of iron and calcium, as well as vitamins A and C. Rosemary oil is commonly found in shampoo and conditioner because it moisturizes the scalp and may encourage hair growth.

YOUR HEALTH TIPS We usually think of herbs and spices as a pair, but in fact they’re two distinct groups categorized according to which part of the plant they come from. “Seeds, roots, certain flowers and barks are consumable, and we refer to most of these as spices,” explains Yikyung Park, ScD, a Washington University researcher at Siteman Cancer Center. “The leaves, however, are known as herbs. We add these to meals to punch up the flavor, and most can be enjoyed fresh or dried.” Herbs have an incredible diversity of size, shape and taste — from aromatic lavender to subtle parsley to potent sage. Their nutritional profiles are just as broad. “You may also enjoy some of these health benefits by drinking herbal tea, made of the dried leaves of herbs. And there may be some benefits to aromatherapy, though there is no strong evidence of its effectiveness,” Park says.

Research has shown that herbs hold many of the same benefits as other leafy green vegetables when it comes to protection against diseases. “That’s because basil, oregano, mint, sage and others have phytochemicals, which are the compounds that give plants their color, aromas and flavors. These compounds may help prevent cell damage and slow the growth of cancer cells,” Park says. Many herbs are rich in antioxidants, another line of defense against heart disease and diabetes. Fresh herbs contain more antioxidants than dried herbs do, so reach for them whenever possible. Fresh herbs are also a terrific way to impart flavor without adding more sugar, fat or calories. It’s best to incorporate delicate herbs, such as basil and cilantro, near the end of cooking a dish; otherwise the leaves tend to

siteman.wustl.edu/YDR

feastmagazine.com / jun e 2 0 2 2

SERVES 2

YIKYUNG PARK, ScD

Washington University researcher at Siteman Cancer Center PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

wilt and char. Herbs continue their good work even after the meal is done: Turn to mint or ginger to help soothe the stomach and aid in digestion.

DRESSING INGREDIENTS 1 cup fresh parsley leaves ½ cup fresh cilantro leaves ½ cup fresh chives 3 garlic cloves ¼ cup lime juice ½ cup plus 2 Tbsp olive oil ½ cup water 2 Tbsp white wine vinegar 2 tsp Dijon mustard Salt, pepper to taste Red pepper flakes to taste SALAD PREPARATION Preheat oven to 350°F and preheat grill. Season each side of steak with salt and pepper. Place sweet potato in oven and bake for 45 minutes, then allow to cool. Grill steak to desired doneness. Grill corn, turning frequently, until tender. Set steak and corn aside to rest. Slice shallots into thin rings. Add 2 Tbsp olive oil to a medium skillet over medium heat. Add shallot rings to skillet and sauté for about 5 minutes until tender, then reduce heat to low and continue to cook until brown with crisp edges, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from oil and place on paper towel or napkin. DRESSING PREPARATION Combine herbs (parsley, cilantro, chives), garlic, lime juice and olive oil in food processor or blender and pulse until paste forms. Add water, vinegar and mustard and blend until smooth. (Add water as needed to thin out to desired consistency.) Season with salt, pepper and red pepper flakes to taste and blend into mixture. Slice sweet potato, then peel skin off and dice into ½ inch pieces. Cut corn from cob and add to bowl with tomatoes, sweet potato and feta. Add ¼ cup dressing to bowl and stir to coat. Spread corn mixture evenly onto two plates and top each with half of the crispy shallots. Slice steak into thin strips and add half to each plate. Drizzle with additional dressing and top with herbs if desired. Store extra dressing in airtight container for up to seven days. 650 kcal, 27g fat, 57g carb (9g fiber, 13g sugar), 54g protein

the dish / DINE & DRINK / SHOP HERE / hot blocks / healthy appetite / mystery shopper / QUICK FIX / SUGAR RUSH

Natural Wines Recommended by

Michael Fricker

Grand Spirits Bottle Co.

Poderi Cellario Langhe Favorita “It’s a fantastic bottle and is everything you’d want out of an easy-sipping, patiopounding summertime white. It’s going to have bright acidity with notes of green apple and lemon citrus in it.”

Story and photos by Mabel Suen

TOWER GROVE EAST. South City’s newest bottle shop specializes in natural wines and spirits. Grand Spirits Bottle Co., from chef Michael Fricker, features about 1,400 bottles of natural wine curated with a focus on clean farming and agricultural practices, and includes around 140 varietals. Bottles sit primarily in the $15 to $25 range, and while 15 rotating wine options are available by the glass, any retail bottle

Rezabal Txakoli Rose “From northern Spain and fermented in concrete in caves, this has Warheadlevel acidity. It is fun and bright, but still has this rose petal floral quality to it.”

can be enjoyed on-site with a $10 corkage fee. Around 120 different spirits are also available, including whiskey, mezcal, tequila, vermouth, amaro, gin and rum selections – many of which can be sampled before purchasing. Italianinspired small plates, charcuterie and cheese boards, tinned fish and sandwiches round out the

Sfera “This is a great red blend from Italy that comes in liter form. It has tart cherry, red stone fruit and hibiscus notes.”

offerings. Choose from options such as artichokes with pita and Calabrian chile ricotta, as well as a prosciutto sandwich with olive tapenade, fig jam, arugula and drunken goat cheese. 3194 S. Grand Blvd., Tower Grove East, St. Louis, Missouri, grandspiritsco.com j u ne 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

the dish / DINE & DRINK / SHOP HERE / hot blocks / healthy appetite / mystery shopper / QUICK FIX / SUGAR RUSH

THE old orchard district Written by Mary Mack

Located at the intersection of I-44 and Murdoch Avenue in Webster Groves, Missouri, the Old Orchard District has been a culinary hotspot for more than 150 years, with ice cream shops, confectionaries and institutions like Hess Grocery and Old Orchard Pharmacy as popular draws. Now, a new class of restaurants, cafés and artisan shops along Big Bend Boulevard continues to draw foodloving locals and visitors alike to the neighborhood.

The Annex Coffee and Foods Situated squarely between owners John Barr and Kelley Hall-Barr’s other Old Orchard establishments, Frisco Barroom and Civil Alchemy, The Annex combines elements of both while still offering up something uniquely its own. The upscale coffee bar is perfect for remote working or catching up with friends; settle in inside or on the covered and heated patio with a cup of locally roasted coffee or a cocktail and order a savory quiche or an artisanal sandwich from the breakfast and lunch menu. Take some time to peruse the grocery shelves stocked high with local and specialty foodand-drink items before grabbing a freshly baked croissant on your way out. 8122 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, Missouri, theannexstl.com

feastmagazine.com / jun e 2 0 2 2

photos by J. POLLACK photography

Civil Alchemy

Balkan Treat Box

While at first Civil Alchemy might appear more hip boutique than modern general store, spend a minute the blufftop or two in the shop and its friendly staff, charm and at rocheport curated selection of ethically sourced, quality items – from clothing to cookware – will make you feel at home. Opened in 2017 by Kelley Hall-Barr and son Ian VanDam, it’s a one-stop shop for knocking out your whole gift list. Shop for minimalist linen aprons and gold serving sets from Civil Alchemy’s own line as well as a selection of crafted spirits, including Truly Floral Gin, founded by Hall-Barr and VanDam and made in Defiance, Missouri. Speaking of florals, don’t forget to treat yourself to a bundle of fresh blooms from the in-house floral bar.

photo by JACKLYN MEYER

By now, most St. Louis diners have heard of Loryn and Edo Nalic’s Bosnian-inspired comfort food concept – and for good reason. What started in 2016 as the buzziest food truck in the area put down roots in Webster Groves in 2019 and has consistently earned national accolades from The New York Times to Food & Wine, plus a James Beard Award semifinalist nomination for Loryn. Don’t be dissuaded by the line snaking around the corner before opening. The Nalics make St. Louis’ Bosnian population proud with woodfired wonders stuffed with traditional flavors and ingredients. Our suggestion? The patlidžan, an eggplant-and-egg sandwich that Loryn found inspiration for while traveling and replicated with her own creative spin. 8103 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, Missouri, balkantreatbox.com

8154 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, Missouri, civilalchemy.com photo by MABEL SUEN

Frisco Barroom Looking for a year-round spot for good food and good vibes? Frisco Barroom is a neighborhood meeting place with an ambiance that is timeless and elevated but never stuffy. The menu features rustic American fare with Midwest-inspired dishes and fromscratch offerings including housemade bread and roasted meats. Grab a cocktail and share small bites like the crispy cauliflower or poutine, or come hungry and indulge in the hearty yet photo by MABEL SUEN fresh sandwiches, pasta and entrées. If you need more convincing, Frisco Barroom also features live music Thursday through Saturday, has a charming patio complete with fire pits for chillier nights and is friendly to both large groups and kids. 8110 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, Missouri, thefriscostl.com

Weber’s Front Row photo by J. POLLACK photography

Chiang Mai Chiang Mai infuses the Old Orchard district with traditional Thai flavors. Chef and owner Su Hill purchased the space, previously home to Tei Too, from her sister, restaurateur Ann Bognar. In doing so, she hyper-focused the menu on traditional dishes of northern Thailand, where she was born and raised. Fans of Thai food will recognize many dishes, such as drunken noodles and pad Thai, on the menu, which is split into small and shared plates. But Hill also leans on her mother’s recipes and fresh ingredients to offer dishes unique to northern Thailand that are not often found locally. Don’t miss the Nam Ngiaw, a noodle soup with minced pork, bite-size ribs, tomato curry broth and rice vermicelli. 8158 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, Missouri, chiangmaistl.com

For a great spot to catch the game – especially if you’re a Kansas City Chiefs fan – with satisfying bites and activities to keep the whole family busy, Weber’s Front Row should make your short list. This classic sports bar lives up to its inviting hometown vibe with a menu that features local favorites like thin-crust pizza and photo by J. POLLACK photography various takes on toasted ravioli, as well as a long list of pub-friendly food options. As the self-proclaimed St. Louis home of the Chiefs, TVs, trophies and sports memorabilia abound along with arcade games to keep everyone occupied until the game ends. 8169 Big Bend Blvd, Webster Groves, Missouri, webersfrontrow.com j u ne 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

the dish / DINE & DRINK / SHOP HERE / hot blocks / healthy appetite / mystery shopper / QUICK FIX / SUGAR RUSH

Arepas Multicolor Arepas are the iconic food and daily staple of Venezuelans. For my daughter Erika, making and eating them is a spiritual practice that connects her to our heritage. She’s learned to make them intuitively by feeling the masa between her fingers to determine when it has the perfect texture. For her, there is no recipe – just a measure of her pride and identity. These sliceable griddle cakes are intended to be filled with various types of savory foods. I love mixing different farm-fresh veggies into the dough to create a multicolored arepa experience. Story and recipe by Gaby Weir Vera, private chef, Columbia, Missouri / Photos by ben nickelson

Toppings are wildly optional; my daughter’s favorite is a bit of shredded queso fresco and a variety of sliced in-season heirloom tomatoes, sprinkled with flaky salt and extra-virgin olive oil.

Arepas Multicolor with Queso Fresco and Tomato Yields | 12 arepas | Plain Arepa Dough 2 cups P.A.N. pre-cooked white cornmeal 2½ cups water 2 tsp salt 2 Tbsp olive oil

feastmagazine.com / jun e 2 0 2 2

Multicolor Add-ons 1½ cups beets, cooked and puréed 1½ cups spinach, blanched and puréed 1½ cups orange carrots, cooked and puréed

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 325°F. In a medium bowl, combine cornmeal, water and salt; knead by hand until a smooth dough is formed. Divide dough into 4 equal portions. Place three dough balls into separate bowls and add one veggie purée to each, leaving one bowl plain. Resume kneading each dough ball to combine colors evenly. Roll each dough ball into three small balls and flatten between your palms to a disk, about ½-inch thick. Add olive oil to a cast-iron or non-stick skillet over medium-low heat. Place as many arepas as you can fit in skillet and cook, about 2 to 3 minutes on each side, until crispy and golden brown. Transfer arepas to baking sheet and bake in preheated oven for 15 minutes. Remove from oven, let rest a few minutes and gently slice in half horizontally. Top with queso fresco, tomatoes, salt and olive oil to taste. Serve and enjoy.

ONE ON ONE

ONE on

Kristin Liu and Mary Nguyen / owners, the kitchen Must-Try Combos at The Kitchen

General Tso’s Chicken with Crab Rangoon Each signature dish comes from Tram Nguyen’s secret recipes, including this lightly breaded crispy chicken cooked in a spicy, tangy sauce made of more than 20 different ingredients.

story and photos by mabel suen

Sisters Kristin Liu and Mary Nguyen grew up together in the restaurant industry, and followed in the footsteps of their parents – immigrants from Vietnam – who owned and operated Florissant mainstay Chinese Gourmet Restaurant for 33 years. When their mother, Tram Nguyen, passed away two years ago, the siblings decided to honor their family’s legacy by opening The Kitchen in the same historic building that once housed Chinese Gourmet. The fast-casual pan-Asian concept features a modernized approach to Vietnamese, Thai and classic Chinese-American fare – all inspired by their mother and her recipes and techniques perfected and passed down over the years. What inspired you to open The Kitchen? Throughout the pandemic, we were always trying to figure out what to eat, what to make for dinner. We would order takeout and cook meals at home, but we would always crave our family restaurant’s food. It was our comfort food. So we decided to reopen the restaurant and recreate a menu with all our favorite dishes. The space has been revitalized to adapt to the current economy, but maintains the original recipes our mother passed down to us. –Mary Nguyen and Kristin Liu What does it mean to you to carry on your family’s legacy? Coming back to a space that already has so much history for us really feels like we have come full circle. While keeping our mother’s recipes has its importance, it is also a time for us to pave

a new path with a simple and modern refresh and new traditions of our own. I hope people will have the chance to dine in, come and try new dishes, and feel the warmth and care that has been put into our space and every meal. –K.L. How did you go about designing the bright and casual feel for the space? The interior design is a tribute to our mother. The walls are yellow because it was her favorite color – it’s what she was wearing when she first came to America. Orchids were our mom’s favorite flower; the ones in the space once belonged to her. We designed the space to look like a home because we knew when opening a restaurant we would be spending long hours there, just like we did when we were kids. –M.N. and K.L.

What makes your family’s food unique? My mom was a refugee in Hong Kong for 11 months and learned a lot in her time there and stateside. Before Chinese Gourmet opened up, our parents had some help from Chinese-Vietnamese families who had chop suey restaurants in the area. She learned the basis of how to cook Chinese food and from then on was a self-taught chef, changing and tweaking recipes. Other restaurants were later coming to her for advice. Before opening, we were nervous about whether or not we could live up to our mother’s standards. I’d say she would be proud. –M.N. 14065 New Halls Ferry Road, Florissant, Missouri, 314.831.9292

Bourbon Chicken with Egg Roll Marinated, grilled chicken coated in a sweet bourbon sauce is another staple of the family restaurant and pairs perfectly with Vietnamese crispy fried spring rolls filled with vermicelli noodles, shredded carrot, jicama, mung bean, onion, taro and ground pork.

Pho with Spring Rolls This aromatic noodle soup features broth simmered for 24 hours with spices including cinnamon, cloves and star anise. Each bowl is topped with sliced rare beef and beef meatballs and is served with a plate of fresh Thai basil, bean sprouts, cilantro, lime and jalapeño.

j u ne 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

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yet.

The prettiest peppers you’re not using – What are they? Italian long hot peppers – also called Philly long hots because of their specific popularity in the city – are a hot-sweet pepper with a fruity brightness. They’re visually striking with slender bodies that twist and turn like corkscrews and colors that slide from lime green to a vibrant red, which make each one unique. Despite their relatively low Scoville heat index, they pack a decent punch that hits you front and center but dissipates quickly, leaving behind a complex, floral, summer-fresh flavor you’ll want to keep eating.

What Do I Do With them? Italian long hots are versatile and ready for just about anything: pickle them, roast them or chop them up and add them to sandwiches, pizza or salads for a green-pepper-meets-jalapeño kick. Add them to things like heavier stews or thicker sauces to add acidity. Their spice level ranges from pepper to pepper; like shishitos, you never know if you have the hot one, so don’t be surprised if one bites back – it’s part of their appeal. Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer

Stuffed Long Hots Serves 4

Because of their slender shape, stuffing long hots may seem difficult, but it’s not. Italian long hots have thin walls and flexible bodies, making them a fun (and dramatic) option for stuffing, and a slow roast brings their flavor to its height and infuses the filling with it as well. Here, marinara makes a huge difference, tempering the initial flash-bang of heat.

2 Tbsp olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced 3 Tbsp shallot, minced 2 cups cooked quinoa kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper 2 cups Monterey Jack, shredded 2 oz soppressata (or other thin-sliced Italian meat), thinly sliced in ribbons 2 cups marinara sauce, plus more for serving (optional) 1 lb fresh long hot peppers, tops removed, sliced open on one side tip to tail, seeded 2/3 cup Parmesan, shredded

and Recipe Developer, aperiodictableblog.com Photos by jennifer silverberg

| preparation | Preheat oven to 400˚F. Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat; add garlic and shallot and cook until fragrant and tender, 1 minute. Add quinoa and stir to incorporate and crisp, 3 to 4 minutes; season to taste with salt and pepper. Add in Monterey Jack and soppressata and remove from heat, folding to distribute everything evenly and slightly melt the cheese. Pour marinara into bottom of large casserole dish. Carefully hold each pepper open as you stuff the mixture into each one; peppers should be held open by mixture and exposed. Arrange peppers over marinara and sprinkle Parmesan over each. Cover tightly with foil and bake for 25 minutes; uncover and continue to bake another 25 to 30 minutes until filling is golden and slightly crisp on top and peppers are tender.

| to serve | Serve hot alongside more marinara.

feastmagazine.com / jun e 2 0 2 2

ONE ON ONE

ONE on

with Matthew Fuller / cO-owner, stl TOASTED How did you get started in the food business? I worked in some restaurants early in my career, but I’ve been a musician for most of my life. Cooking has always been my passion, and I’ve always found that it’s kind of therapeutic. When COVID hit, I was making music and had all of 2020 booked with music shows across the U.S. When that didn’t work out, I started thinking of business ideas around food. Back in 2014, I thought it would be interesting

Must-Try Toasted Ravioli at STL Toasted

to have a food truck around toasted ravioli. I circled back to the idea in April 2020, and the business has taken off through multiple collaborations with others in the industry. What made you want to open an entire business centered on toasted ravioli in the first place? T-ravs are a quintessential St. Louis food, but I found that if someone from out of town asks 10 different people, ‘Where should I try toasted ravioli?,’ they’ll get a lot of different answers because everyone has their favorite place. With STL Toasted, I wanted to explore them as the main

gooey butter ravioli features

lemon zest- and honey-infused dough stuffed with a thin layer of gooey butter cake and blackberry syrup, then topped with powdered sugar and blackberry syrup.

course – not just an appetizer. What was appealing about City Foundry STL and the food hall model? When we started doing popups, I imagined that we would eventually partner with a brewery or maybe with a bar or other restaurant. We really love the idea of the Foundry and the diversity of vendors that are there. With 19 different vendors, it’s also a great opportunity for us to collaborate with other people. And it’s my dream goal to get to a point where, as much as possible, most of our ingredients are sourced from St. Louis-area businesses. How do you see the dish as a vehicle to explore Written by amanda bretz / photos by judd demaline

different flavors, including both savory and sweet

three-cheese ravioli consists of Parmigiano-Reggiano, mozzarella and ricotta cheese blended with herbs and served with marinara.

options? It’s the perfect vehicle for anything you

When it comes to the St. Louis food scene, there are a few

want to do. I love the process of coming up with the different types of filling, and I know that virtually

dishes that are considered a “can’t-miss” to anyone visiting from

anything stuffed inside a ravioli will be delicious.

out of town – and toasted ravioli ranks high on that list. With

How do you differentiate the dishes beyond just

STL Toasted, a local husband-and-wife duo are reimagining one

the filling? Each ravioli starts with fresh-made

of the city’s most iconic foods with creative fillings, doughs and

dough and each has its own twist. The Buffalo

breadings. For more than a year, owners Matthew Fuller and

in the dough, and the gooey butter cake ravioli

chicken ravioli gets some Frank’s Red Hot sauce

Brittany Abernathy have hosted pop-up events around town and

includes lemon zest in the dough. We also use

collaborated with other St. Louis food businesses like Graffiti

ravioli is sprinkled with a graham cracker breading.

Grub food truck and Bella’s Frozen Yogurt to share their creative T-ravs with diners. They’ve gained a significant following along

different breadings – for instance, the s’mores Each ravioli comes with a unique dipping sauce that complements the flavors inside the pasta.

the way, which led STL Toasted to recently put down roots with

3700 Forest Park Ave. (inside City Foundry STL

its own stall at City Foundry STL Food Hall in Midtown.

Food Hall), St. Louis, Missouri, facebook.com/ stltoasted

andouille sausage ravioli

was born from a collaboration with Cajun-inspired food truck Graffiti Grub. It’s filled with andouille sausage and creamy grits, topped with Cajunspiced breadcrumbs and served with remoulade sauce.

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Summer Squash Tart

In this class, we will explore ways to enjoy the bounties of your summer harvest and increase your vegetable cooking knowledge.

Finding a baby zucchini or squash hidden among the leaves in my garden fills my heart with excitement. As I work my way through the rest of the garden, picking this and that, I can hardly wait to get into my kitchen to enjoy our bounty. This tart is a beautiful way to savor the tender and mild squash. Written by Amy Feese Photo by Jennifer Silverberg

Get Hands-On Join Schnucks Cooking School chef amy feese at 3PM on SAT., june 25 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu. For more information on this class, contact the cooking school directly.

for more information and to buy tickets, visit nourish.schnucks.com/schnucks-cooking-school or call 314.909.1704.

serves 6 to 8 1 ¼ 4 2 2 1 8 2

lemon, zested and juiced cup olive oil sprigs fresh thyme, destemmed salt and pepper, to taste small zucchini, sliced into thin strips small yellow squash, sliced into thin strips 10-inch pie crust, thawed oz whole-milk ricotta oz Parmesan, grated

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 425°F. In a medium bowl, combine lemon zest, juice, olive oil, thyme, salt and pepper. Add sliced zucchini and squash and stir to combine. Meanwhile, prepare the rest of the tart. Press dough into a 10-inch tart pan with a removable

feastmagazine.com / jun e 2 0 2 2

MAKE THE MEAL ○ Summer Squash Tart ○ Risotto-Stuffed Tomatoes ○ Chilled Red Pepper Soup with Sour Cream ○ Cherry Buttermilk Clafoutis bottom, or lay out on a parchment-lined baking sheet for a more rustic appearance. Using a fork, poke holes in the bottom of the crust to prevent bubbles. In a small bowl, combine ricotta and most of the Parmesan; spread evenly over base of tart. Arrange sliced zucchini and squash over cheese. (If making a rustic tart, roll up edges and press down to hold in filling). Sprinkle with remaining Parmesan. Bake for 30 minutes, until golden on edges and top.

pro

pro picks

Travis Dillon

St. Louis Cardinals Games. “Our family has

co-owner, ted drewes frozen custard

out with Ted Drewes Jr. and [his wife,]

story and photo by Charlotte renner

them over. It’s hard to give up things that

Did you know that before Ted Drewes Sr. was a frozen custard connoisseur, he was famous around town for being a champion tennis player on the Forest Park tennis courts? Drewes Sr. took his family to Florida every winter to practice his tennis skills. After randomly being asked to sell frozen custard for a traveling circus by a friend in Florida, he put his own spin on a recipe and got to work. The business stuck, and Ted Drewes Frozen Custard was born: Drewes Sr. opened up a St. Petersburg, Florida, location in 1929, and then returned to St. Louis to open several Ted Drewes locations between 1930 and 1941. Today, the only remaining locations are on Chippewa Street and South Grand Boulevard. Ted Drewes has stayed in the family for three generations and is now owned by Drewes Sr.’s granddaughter, Christy Dillon, and her husband, Travis. “It’s a great feeling to be able to be part of St. Louis as much as we are,” Travis says. “It’s a big honor to continue the legacy.” Here, he shares three of the couple’s favorite summertime activities.

had season tickets since 1996. It started Dottie, getting them, and now we’ve taken are so enjoyable for the family, and it’s all supportive of St. Louis. That’s our main goal: to do things that support St. Louis.” Saint Louis Zoo. “We’re very fortunate that the zoo is free. We love to see the animals and to ride the train with the grandkids – they’re at the age where they really enjoy riding the train.” The Muny. “We enjoy going to The Muny inside Forest Park; they’re great performances. In St. Louis, we’re lucky to have one of the largest outdoor performance [venues] in the United States.”

M O R E I N F O & E V E N TS

j u ne 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

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espresso, Chocolate & Cacao nib Perk up shortbread with the addition of espresso and chocolatey cacao nibs. These crispy and buttery cookies, dipped in melted chocolate, make for a delicious pick-me-up any time of day. I highly

Shortbread

Yields 2 dozen 1

Tbsp instant espresso

Tbsp boiling water

2 sticks unsalted butter, room temperature ₂⁄₃ cup powdered sugar ¼

tsp fine sea salt

/ preparation / Line a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan

even surface. Cover and transfer to refrigerator

with plastic wrap or parchment paper. Set aside.

to chill until firm, at least 2 hours.

Place instant espresso in a glass and pour

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line large baking

boiling water over; stir until dissolved. Set aside

sheet with parchment paper.

to cool to room temperature.

Remove dough from baking pan and transfer to

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the

cutting board. Using a large chef’s knife, slice

paddle attachment, cream together butter,

dough into ¼-inch thick slices and place on

tsp vanilla extract

powdered sugar and salt on medium speed for

baking sheet, spacing about 1 inch apart. Bake

cups all-purpose flour

3 minutes, stopping to scrape down bowl as

cookies for 18 to 20 minutes or until firm to

oz semi-sweet chocolate,

needed. Add vanilla extract and espresso and

touch. Remove from oven and set on a wire rack

mix to incorporate. Add flour and mix, on low,

to cool completely.

Tbsp cacao nibs, finely chopped

just until combined. Stop to scrape down sides

Dip each piece of shortbread cookie halfway

oz semi-sweet chocolate,

and bottom of bowl; add in chopped chocolate

into melted chocolate. Set back on lined baking

and cacao nibs. Mix just until combined. Transfer

sheet until chocolate has set. Store shortbread

Story, recipe and photo by Teresa Floyd,

dough into prepared loaf pan. Gently press

in an airtight container, at room temperature,

food writer and recipe developer, now-forager.com

dough into pan until it fills entire pan with an

for up to three days.

recommend using a high-quality chocolate bar, such as Valrhona, for this recipe. If desired, you can temper the chocolate before dipping for a perfect set to your chocolate, but it’s not necessary.

feastmagazine.com / jun e 2 0 2 2

finely chopped 2 10

melted, for dipping

ST. LOUIS CLASSICS

From pork steak nachos to St. Paul pizzas, dig into creative riffs on signature St. Louis dishes.

x d

Written by feast staff

Photo COURTESY OF KATIE'S PIZZA & PASTA OSTERIA, by GREGG GOLDMAN PHOTOGRAPHY

We may not all harbor the same feelings about Provel cheese or agree on the origin story of toasted ravioli, but when it comes to St. Louis food, one thing is certain: the city is home to plenty of delicious and distinct signature dishes. And while these dishes are easily found at bars and restaurants throughout all corners of the metro area, plenty of spots are breaking the mold with their own unique spins – artichoke toasted ravioli, anyone? Here, we’re spotlighting five iconic St. Louis foods – toasted ravioli, gooey butter cake, St. Louisstyle pizza, pork steaks and St. Paul sandwiches – and the restaurants offering their own takes.

TOASTED RAVIOLI

Loaded: Elevated Nachos Ever wonder what deconstructed T-ravs would look like? The toasted ravioli nachos at Loaded: Elevated Nachos in St. Charles, Missouri, are a good guess. Housemade breaded pasta chips are topped with hearty pork Bolognese, shaved fresh Parmesan and parsley and then garnished with a dollop of

Although many restaurants claim to have created St. Louis’ most pervasive appetizer, we all seem to agree that the conception of

herb-whipped ricotta. The dish has been especially popular at Loaded since it was featured on an episode of Travel Channel’s “Food Paradise” earlier this year. loadednachos.com

toasted ravioli was a happy mistake. Sometime in the 1950s, a cook accidentally dropped some ravioli into a fryer – the rest, as they say, is history.

O+O Pizza The toasted ravioli at O+O Pizza may look like your average sports bar appetizer, but the Webster Groves restaurant’s focus on handmade pasta takes them to the next level. They’re stuffed with fontina, beef, pancetta tesa and tomato ragù for an elevated version of the ubiquitous appetizer. oandopizza.oohosp.com Photo COURTESY OF O+ O by sam priestly

Photo BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT

Salt + Smoke Now with five locations in the St. Louis area, Salt + Smoke is known for its creative approach to classic barbecue dishes. The team brings that same mindset to the city’s best-loved appetizer, offering toasted ravioli stuffed with either burnt ends or creamy pimento cheese. saltandsmokebbq.com Photo COURTESY OF SALT + SMOKE

Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria A menu mainstay, the artichoke toasted ravioli at Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria are stuffed with artichoke hearts and housemade basil-pine nut pesto and garnished with a healthy sprinkle of freshly shaved Parmigiano Reggiano. katiespizzaandpasta.com

Photo COURTESY OF KATIE'S PIZZA & PASTA OSTERIA, by GREGG GOLDMAN PHOTOGRAPHY

e Jammin’ the Vineyard once agai We’reatJammin’ at the Join us Saturday, June 11th for a day of oovin’ Reggae and authentic Jamaican cuisine.

Vineyard once again.

Join Saturday, June for afor daythe Sunse arts at us 1pm, but plan on11th staying

of Groovin’ Reggae and authentic Jamaican cuisine. Bring your lawn gear, island attitude and 10 bucks for the gate.

e’ll have plenty of Red Red wine, Jamaican food and Cool Jammin’ V More details to come.

Music starts at 1pm, but plan on staying for the Sunset. Visit our website or Facebook for more info.

Bring your gear, MISSOURI island attitude ÖBLLER VINEYARD ROAD •lawn NEW HAVEN, Robllerwines

We want to be unique and have a

different take on nachos and think

a little bit outside the box. We see something and we’re like, ‘Can that be turned into a nacho?’ Being St. Louisans and knowing how popular and important toasted ravioli is to the food scene, that was always something that we had early on as a concept idea. We felt that it could be seen a little differently and done as nachos, so we ran with it. – Brad Merten, co-owner, Loaded: Elevated Nachos

and 10 bucks for the gate. We’ll have plenty of Red Red wine, Jamaican food and Cool Jammin’ Vibes. More details to come. Visit our website or Facebook for more info.

275 RÖBLLER VINEYARD ROAD NEW HAVEN, MISSOURI Robllerwines.com j u ne 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

Photo COURTESY OF st. louis kolache

GOOEY BUTTER CAKE

True to its name, gooey butter cake features a gooey, buttery center flanked by crisp edges. Said to have been created by mistake when a baker messed up the proportions for coffeecake, it’s been a St. Louis tradition since the 1930s, and today’s chefs are paying homage to the classic dessert with all kinds of treats.

Clementine’s Naughty & Nice Creamery Clementine’s Naughty & Nice Creamery is known for plenty of creative, sometimes booze-infused flavors, but only one has earned the title of bestseller. The gooey butter ice cream features tangy cream cheese ice cream swirled with large pieces of housemade gooey butter cake, and we’re not the only fans – Oprah named it to her coveted “O List” in 2019. clementinescreamery.com

St. Louis Kolache St. Louis Kolache loves collaborating with other local restaurants, and the shop’s gooey butter kolache was developed in partnership with Ann & Allen Baking Co. Owner Russ Clark says he knew he wanted to spotlight classic comfort

“Regions of the U.S. are defined by their fervent affinity for certain

foods on his menu – and what says comforting more than St. Louis gooey butter cake? stlkolache.com

desserts. In fact, a state’s border can clearly be defined not by a map, but by what confection locals are reared on and will defend. St. Louis’ borders are defined by our undying love and affection for gooey butter P h ot

N o BY C H R I ST I NA K L I

AR G-G

cake. A local baker’s accident of not adding leavening created such an amazingly dense, sweet, buttery and gooey treat that can only be compared to the most luscious and decadent cheese Danish you’ve ever had. Our salute to this divine accident is a tangy cream cheese ice cream seeded with large sinful chunks of our housemade gooey butter cake. – Tamara Keefe, owner Clementine’s Naughty & Nice Creamery

Photo BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT

Perfectly Pastry Perfectly Pastry first began making its original gooey butter cake for The Repertory Theatre of St. Louis’ holiday show in 2020, and it was such a hit that it earned a permanent spot on the menu. Chef Chris Phillips takes the dessert to the next level by adding chocolate, coconut and pecans. perfectlypastry.com

PhotO COURTESY OF STRANGE DONUTS

Strange Donuts A staple since the shop’s early days, the gooey butter cake donut at Strange Donuts features a scratch-made donut topped with gooey butter crumbles, vanilla icing and plenty of powdered sugar. Whether enjoyed in the morning with a cup of coffee or as a late-night treat, this donut offers a new take on the classic. strangedonuts.com

LaJoy’s Coffee Café The signature gooey butter Danish at LaJoy’s Coffee Café is made from scratch, featuring a pastry pinwheel topped with a sweet filling and a strawberry drizzle. Manager Tia Bonnett says she wanted customers to have something unique to pair with a great cup of coffee, and this treat certainly fits the bill. lajoyscoffeecafe.com Photo BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT

ST. PAUL SANDWICH

Sure, there’s a different city right there in the name, but St. Paul sandwiches are a St. Louis dish through and through. Served at ChineseAmerican restaurants throughout the city, the sandwich features a crispy fried egg foo young patty slathered with mayonnaise and topped with lettuce, tomatoes and pickles between slices of Wonder Bread. The Rice House In Florissant, Missouri, The Rice House offers plenty of classic St. Paul styles, but the jerk chicken St. Paul mixes up the classic egg foo young filling with a little flair from the Caribbean islands. If spice isn’t your thing, try opting for the Baconator Photo BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT

version instead. ricehousestl.com

Gooseberries The St. Paul pizza from Gooseberries in South City combines two beloved St. Louis classics in one. A large egg foo young patty is baked on top of the restaurant’s pizza crust before being topped with lettuce, red onion and pickles. gooseberriesstl.com Photo BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT

The St. Paul is a delicious sandwich. It’s a St. Louis staple, and they’re very easy to make. So, it was a go-to for me, because I knew I could execute it with ease, and I know that people in St. Louis are familiar with it. But they’re not familiar with a vegan St. Paul. So when they hear that, they’re like, ‘What?!’ So I wanted some wow factor. It’s not heavy, and it’s not greasy like some places are – like, the paper is soaked with grease. Mine isn’t like that. It’s light, it’s delicious, and it’s love. –Jason Lamont, chef and co-owner, Love at First Bite Love at First Bite For a vegan take on the St. Paul, head to Love at First Bite in St. Ann, Missouri. Chef Jason Lamont uses Just Egg, Vegenaise and vegan bread to eliminate animal products from the dish and supplements it all in an egg foo young patty loaded with bell pepper, onions and cauliflower and topped with the traditional lettuce, tomato, onion and pickle. loveatfirstbitestl.com Photo COURTESY OF LOVE AT FIRST BITE

j u ne 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

PORK STEAK

Cut from the shoulder of the pig, pork steaks are a sure sign of summer in St. Louis. Found more often on backyard grills than on restaurant menus, they’re a local favorite for a reason – whether smoked, grilled or braised, they’re sure to be succulent and juicy.

Navin’s BBQ At Navin’s BBQ in Tower Grove East, pork steaks are brined in Busch beer overnight before they’re covered in house rub and hit the smoker. Try them on The Lou, featuring pork steak, sweet barbecue sauce, Provel and Red Hot Riplets all topped with a

Photo BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT

single toasted ravioli for an ode to St. Louis cuisine in sandwich form. navinsbbq.com Photo BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT

The Fattened Caf Using pork steak is key to The Fattened Caf’s spin on tocino, a traditional Filipino breakfast food consisting of pork cured in spices, garlic and pineapple juice. Grilling the pork gives the dish a rich, charred flavor, and the meat is served on the bone with garlic rice, tomato salad, pickled cabbage and spiced vinegar dipping sauce. thefattenedcaf.com

Tocino is basically Filipino bacon, but it has to have a good balance of lean and fat. Filipinos actually really love meat with the bone and tocino does not traditionally come with that, so using a pork steak just really elevates it. – Charlene Young, co-owner The Fattened Caf

feastmagazine.com / jun e 2 0 2 2

BEAST Craft BBQ BEAST Craft BBQ’s pork steak sandwich features fried onions and 10 ounces of grilled pork steak, basted with St. Louis-style barbecue sauce. According to chef-owner David Sandusky, the grilling is “where the magic happens.” Through the basting process, the sauce absorbs into the meat and becomes part of it, imparting deep flavor and a dark cherry hue. beastbbqstl.com Photo courtesy of beast craft bbq

Sister Cities Cajun Sourced from local farms, the pork steak at Sister Cities Cajun gets rubbed with freshly-ground espresso and Montreal seasoning. It’s then smoked for two hours and cooked sous vide for 24, resulting in a tender but still firm texture. Served with a pan sauce and fried potato salad with Dijondill dressing, the dish is the restaurant’s tribute to the classic backyard cookout. sistercitiescajun.com

Photo courtesy of sister cities cajun

Circa Pub & Grill Circa Pub & Grill’s BBQ Nachos are fit to feed your whole crew and feature housemade tortilla chips, sour cream, cheese

and shredded, barbecued pork steak. The crunchiness of the chips is the perfect accompaniment to the soft,

tender pork. circa-stl.com Photo BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT

j u ne 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

ST. LOUISSTYLE PIZZA

Characterized by a cracker-thin, unleavened crust; gooey Provel (a divisive processed blend of Cheddar, Swiss and Provolone cheeses); and square-cut slices, St. Louis’ eponymous style is rarely found outside the area. As for the taste? As St. Louis native Jon Hamm once told Jimmy Kimmel, “You can taste the Gateway Arch. It tastes like 11 World Series victories.”

Now available

Gioia’s Deli This venerable sandwich

at your favorite

shop puts its awardwinning hot salami on four different pies, available frozen instore or at Schnucks and Dierbergs. Choose from the Original, Garlic Cheese Crust, Big Italian with pepperoni and the Spicy Daggett, which adds capicolla and giardiniera. gioiasdeli.com Photo courtesy of gioia's deli

The Sliced Pint At The Sliced Pint, you can order any pizza with thin St. Louis-style crust, thick crust, gluten-free crust or as a calzone, but the most exciting option just might be the “T-rav pie.” Hand-stretched dough is stuffed with a toasted ravioli filling and covered in thin-crust dough, then loaded with your toppings of choice, ranging from pesto Alfredo sauce and bacon to Impossible meat and pineapple. theslicedpint.com Photo courtesy of the sliced pint

St. Peters | Ellisville | Delmar The Grove | Cherokee swadecannabis.com

feastmagazine.com / jun e 2 0 2 2

Bootleggin’ Bobs

2022-23

Available both fresh to order and frozen to take home, Bootleggin’ Bobs in South City offers cheesy St. Louis-

BROADWAY SEASON

7 OR 8-SHOW SEASON TICKET PACKAGES ON SALE JUNE 6

style pizzas topped with smoked Kansas City-style barbecue. Opt for the Buffalo Wang with smoked chicken, the Bootlegger with ground brisket or the Porky’s Party with pulled pork. bootlegginbobs.com Photo BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT

Sauce on the Side Sauce on the Side stuffs all of what makes a great pizza into one calzone: The Meat Me in St. Louie. The chain’s bestseller

September 20 - October 2, 2022

October 11-23, 2022

November 2-13, 2022

January 24 - February 5, 2023

February 28 - March 12, 2023

March 21 - April 2, 2023

features pepperoni, Italian sausage, Provel, a mascarpone-ricotta blend and olive oil served with a meat sauce for dipping. sauceontheside.com

Photo courtesy of sauce on the side

Crispy Edge For this collaboration, Crispy Edge adds Dogtown Pizza’s proprietary Parmesan and Romano cheese blend right into potsticker dough before filling it with the frozen pizza company’s sausage, pizza sauce and, of course, more cheese. These local delights are available both fresh from the restaurant and frozen at area Dierbergs and Schnucks locations – just make sure you have a side of marinara sauce for dipping. Photo BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT

crispyedge.com

When we’re creating a new potsticker,

8-SHOW PACKAGE INCLUDES

we start with just the core ingredients with some rough ideas from our base recipes, as far as our fillings and doughs, to make sure that the dough is gonna be consistent and we can actually make the product. We just do a handrolled [potsticker] test. I think we did a few rounds of that internally before I brought some samples over to the Dogtown Pizza crew. I pulled up to their factory, put down my tailgate on my truck, had a little butane burner and a skillet, and I seared up the first batch

May 9-21, 2023

April 12 - May 7, 2023

• SPECIALS FOR SWAP ONE AND PRIORITY PURCHASE • A CHRISTMAS CAROL • CIRQUE DREAMS HOLIDAZE

ELF The Musical • RUDOLPH The Red-Nosed Reindeer • LES MISERABLES BLUE MAN GROUP • BEAUTIFUL - The Carole King Musical

of them. And it was like a home run.” – Jesse Stuart, director of operations, Crispy Edge

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pumP your PANTRY written by Shannon Weber / Photos by jennifer silverberg

From hot honey to granola, put locally made products to work with these five recipes.

feastmagazine.com / jun e 2 0 2 2

One of the things you hear over and over again is what a standout city St. Louis is for makers. It’s an embarrassment of riches, really; local products abound at farmers’ markets and retailers all around the city, from the smallest boutique shops to the biggest nationwide grocery chains. Seek them out, and you’ll never go back: not only are they far superior to other offerings, but you’re helping support your friends and neighbors so they can keep doing what they’re doing. What’s more? Most of our local products are no one-trick ponies: You can use them as intended, or get creative and find new ways to feature them in your own cooking. Here, we’re sharing five recipes that spotlight the best of our local maker scene.

Smoked Trout and Crispy CapOcolLa Salad with Lemon-Balsamic Vinaigrette and Herbed Goat Cheese Medallions Serves | 4 |

You can crisp the capocolla two ways for this recipe: in a preheated 400˚F oven for 10 to 12 minutes or in a skillet over medium-high heat for 2 to 3 minutes per side. Lemon-Balsamic Vinaigrette 2 Tbsp white balsamic vinegar juice of 2 to 3 lemons 2 Tbsp honey ¼ cup olive oil sea salt and fresh ground black pepper Herbed Goat Cheese Medallions 8 oz fresh goat cheese, at room temperature ¼ cup fresh parsley leaves, finely chopped 1½ tsp lemon zest, finely chopped fat pinch kosher salt fat pinch freshly ground black pepper 2/3 cup pecans, toasted and finely chopped Smoked Trout and Crispy CapOcolLa Salad 6 oz mixed tender greens such as arugula, spinach or baby kale lemon-balsamic vinaigrette (recipe follows) 8 oz smoked trout fillets, skin removed, flaked with fork 8 oz Volpi capocolla, crisped in oven or pan (see notes for directions) 12 herbed goat cheese medallions (recipe follows) 2 Tbsp plus 2 tsp capers, rinsed and drained sea salt and fresh ground black pepper

/ preparation - lemon-balsamic vinaigrette / In a small bowl, combine vinegar, lemon juice and honey; stream in olive oil slowly and whisk until emulsified. Season with salt and pepper to taste and refrigerate until ready to use. / preparation - herbed goat cheese medallions / In a small mixing bowl, combine softened goat cheese, parsley and lemon zest; using a fork, combine until ingredients are evenly distributed. Season to taste with salt and pepper; refrigerate one hour. Once chilled, scoop level tablespoons of goat cheese mixture and use your hands to pat into 12 balls. Roll in chopped pecans until coated; flatten slightly into medallions and refrigerate until ready to use. / preparation - salad / In a serving bowl, toss greens with 3 to 4 tablespoons of vinaigrette and divide onto 4 plates; divide flaked trout over top and place crisped capocolla down the center. Set 3 medallions around each plate. Sprinkle each with 2 teaspoons capers and season with salt and pepper. / to serve / Dress with more fresh lemon vinaigrette over top and serve immediately.

Hot Honey Fruit Salad Serves | 8 to 10 |

This is not your grandma’s fruit salad! Featuring chile-infused hot honey from Hawthorne Honey, this recipe pulls from the best of summer and adds a twist with some savory elements. Tossed with a hot honey dressing and drizzled with chile crisp, this cantaloupe and cucumber salad offers the perfect combination of heat, sweet, sour and salty. ¼ 2 ½ 1 2-3 1 3-4 1/3

cup Hawthorne hot honey Tbsp fresh lemon juice fat pinch kosher salt medium cantaloupe, seeded, chopped in 1-inch pieces medium English cucumber, peeled and seeded, diced Tbsp fresh basil leaves, in thin ribbons, plus more for garnish cup walnuts, pan-toasted and roughly chopped oz Feta, crumbled cup chile crisp, for serving

/ preparation / In a small bowl, whisk together hot honey, lemon juice and salt to combine; refrigerate until ready to use. In a large mixing bowl, toss together cantaloupe, cucumber, basil and walnuts; add honey mixture and toss to coat. / to serve / Transfer mixture to shallow serving bowl or divide onto plates; scatter with Feta and season with another pinch of salt, if desired. Serve with chile crisp alongside to drizzle over top.

Pineapple-AllspiceMarinated Pork Chops with Slaw Serves | 6 |

For the thinnest, best slaw around with next to no effort, get a mandoline: It’ll do all the work for you and the results will always be better than the prepackaged alternative. Make the slaw dressing a day ahead along with the marinade, and then throw it all together when it’s time to eat. Pineapple-AllspiceMarinated Pork Chops ¼ cup Heirloom Bottling Co. Pineapple-Allspice shrub 3-4 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled 1 serrano pepper, seeded and halved ½ cup olive oil 1 Tbsp plus 1 tsp kosher salt 1 tsp fresh ground black pepper 6 thick-cut, bone-in pork chops Slaw ¼ cup sour cream ¼ cup mayonnaise 3 Tbsp Heirloom Bottling Co. Pineapple-Allspice shrub 1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar juice of 1 to 2 medium limes 1 tsp kosher salt ½ tsp fresh ground black pepper 4 cups green or red cabbage, or a mix, finely shredded 1 cup carrots, finely shredded 1 small red onion, in paper thin slices kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper, to taste / preparation - pork chops / In a small bowl, whisk together shrub, garlic, serrano pepper, olive oil, salt and black pepper. Add pork chops to plastic ziptop bag or shallow wide dish; pour marinade in and over to coat pork chops. Marinate at least 6 hours or overnight. About 30 minutes prior to cooking, prepare a grill for medium-high heat; move lit coals to one side of a charcoal grill and leave other side empty. Remove chops from marinade and pat dry; season both sides generously with salt and pepper. Add chops to coal-filled side of grill and cook until marks form, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to cooler side of grill and let cook, covered, flipping occasionally until center of pork registers 145˚F, about 5 to 6 minutes more. Remove to a platter, tent with foil and let rest for 10 minutes. / preparation - slaw / In a small bowl, whisk together sour cream, mayonnaise, shrub, apple cider vinegar, lime juice, kosher salt and pepper until combined; refrigerate until ready to use. In a large bowl, combine cabbage, carrots and red onion and pour half of dressing over; toss to coat. Check seasoning and add more dressing as needed; serve alongside rested pork chops.

j u ne 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

Loaded Mole Polenta Fries Serves | 4 to 5 |

Polenta fries are so versatile: Served this way, they make a perfect vegetarian main, but they can also be served on the side or even as a bite-sized appetizer. Polenta Fries 5½ cups chicken or vegetable stock 1½ tsp kosher salt 1½ cup coarse-grind polenta 3 oz Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 5 Tbsp unsalted butter

/ preparation / In a large saucepan over high heat, bring stock and salt to a boil; whisk rapidly as you slowly stream in polenta. Continue to whisk until polenta begins to thicken. Allow to simmer over medium-low heat until very thick, 25 to 30 minutes, whisking occasionally. Add cheese and butter; stir to melt and incorporate. Line a lipped 9-by-13-inch sheet pan with parchment paper, leaving a slight overhang on the sides of the pan. Pour in polenta and smooth top with spatula. Allow to cool to room temperature, then place in refrigerator for at least 2 hours until firm.

To Serve 1 8-oz jar Clean Plate Pantry mole paste 1½ cups chicken or vegetable stock (or water) ¼ cup fresh lime juice 1 medium red onion, finely diced 1 large ear sweet corn, shaved ¹⁄₃ cup cilantro leaves, finely chopped, plus more for garnish 2 small (or 1 large) avocado 3 oz Cotija cheese, crumbled 2 medium limes, in wedges, for serving

When ready to bake and serve, preheat oven to 425°F. Using parchment paper as a handle, lift out polenta slab; use a large, thin knife to slice in half lengthwise, then into 20 narrow rectangles. Brush lipped sheet pan with 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, place fries on pan; brush with remaining oil and sprinkle with salt; bake for 30 to 35 minutes until crispy.

20 to 25 minutes, scraping sides and bottom of pot as you stir to avoid burning.

While polenta fries are baking, whisk mole and stock or water

| to serve | Pour ¼ cup mole onto each lipped plate; top each with 4 to 5 polenta fries. Top with corn mixture down the center, followed by Cotija, and garnish with more cilantro leaves, if desired. Serve with lime wedges.

together in a medium saucepan over medium heat, breaking up mole until smooth. Heat to a boil, then reduce to medium-low and simmer until sauce reduces and thickens, stirring occasionally,

As fries are baking, add lime juice to a medium bowl and stir in red onion; let sit for at least 5 minutes to pickle. Add corn, cilantro and avocado and toss lightly to combine just before serving.

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feastmagazine.com / jun e 2 0 2 2

Garam Masala-Chocolate Bundino with TurmericSweet Potato-Cashew Granola and Whipped Cream Serves | 6 to 8 |

The fastest way to mess up an egg-based dish is to heat the eggs too quickly, which always results in a lumpy mess. Take your time while pouring the liquid into the eggs; keep whisking, and you’ll have the silkiest dessert ever. Garam Masala Bundino 5 large egg yolks ²⁄₃ cup granulated sugar 2¼ cups heavy cream 8 oz 60 percent to 70 percent dark chocolate, finely chopped fat pinch kosher salt 1 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into cubes 2½ tsp garam masala 1 tsp vanilla extract To Serve 6-8 4-oz ramekins or serving cups fresh whipped cream 1 cup Banner Road Midnight Snack granola

/ preparation / In a medium heatproof bowl, whisk egg yolks and sugar together until smooth; set aside. Add cream to a medium saucepan and set over medium heat. Cook, whisking frequently, until mixture is just bubbling. Slowly pour hot cream into egg mixture, whisking constantly as you pour to temper eggs; continue to whisk until completely smooth. Working quickly, pour mixture back into saucepan and heat over medium, whisking constantly until thickened slightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour mixture over chopped chocolate and let sit for 2 minutes. Begin slowly whisking to incorporate chocolate, increasing speed and whisking until no streaks remain. Whisk in salt, butter and vanilla until completely smooth and glossy. Pour into ramekins and cover; place in refrigerator to set, at least 2 hours.

/ to serve / Remove from refrigerator and dollop with fresh whipped cream. Sprinkle with granola and garam masala, if desired. Serve chilled.

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Retooled

Restaurants,

W RITTEN BY NANCY STiLES

As any restaurant owner will tell you, it’s extremely difficult to keep the business afloat. Even successful restaurants run on razor-thin margins, and an unforeseen issue – like a global pandemic – may mean the end. Yet against all odds, St. Louis is home to several spots that have lasted upward of 80 years, like The Tenderloin Room, with a reputation to match. In the same spirit, local entrepreneurs are also reimagining their favorite longtime spots, such as The Parkmoor Drive-In, for a new generation of diners. Here, learn how local restaurateurs are ensuring these five beloved spots stay relevant for years to come.

Tony’s

World’s Fair Donuts

Photo by Ryan Weitz

Photo by Mabel Suen

The hospitality at Tony’s starts with a phone call. When you call to make a reservation at the legendary St. Louis-area restaurant, you can already feel it. This is by design, says owner James Bommarito, who ensures that this thread connects everyone you meet: the valet, the maitre’d, the waiter and then Bommarito himself.

Perhaps at the other end of the spectrum lies World’s Fair Donuts, a contemporary of Tony’s. World’s Fair opened in 1944 as Northside Donuts but changed its name when it moved to 1904 S. Vandeventer Avenue, just down the street from the Missouri Botanical Garden.

“We try to satisfy all the senses, as many as we can, and if we do that, we can be very successful,” he says.

“The older woman with the beehive who didn’t take any shit off anybody. She was who she was – like a loving, abrasive grandma,” he says with a laugh. “I think that’s the real reason.”

Tony’s, which relocated to Clayton, Missouri, last year after spending the better part of a century downtown, is one of several iconic St. Louis restaurants being ushered into the future by a new generation – a generation that wants to both adapt and preserve city institutions.

Clanton and her husband, Terry, were longtime owners of World’s Fair and planned to pass it to their son until he died of a heart attack at 54. When Bockman expressed interest in buyingthe business in 2019, he made it clear he did not plan to change a thing.

Bommarito’s grandfather, the titular Anthony, opened Tony’s as a “Produce Row spaghetti house” in 1946, but when he unexpectedly passed away two years later, his son Vince, still in high school, took it over and began the transition from what Bommarito has called “more of a billiards room and cigar shop” into one of the swankiest restaurants in town in a matter of years. When Tony’s closed during the pandemic, there was talk that it would never reopen, or perhaps relocate. Bommarito says the downtown lease was coming to an end anyway, and most of the core Tony’s customers live west of Skinker Boulevard, so he felt it made sense to protect the legacy of the venerable spot. What Bommarito didn’t do was hire a hot young chef or revamp the menu. “We’ve had the same chef, Gerard Germain, since the 1970s, and he does a terrific job,” he says. “We don’t make knee-jerk reactions at Tony’s when new styles and new fads come out. Almost all of our captains have been here 20 years.

Strange Donuts owner Jason Bockman grew up waiting in line at World’s Fair for a $1 donut. He feels there’s a pretty simple reason World’s Fair has become a city institution: Peggy Clanton.

Strange Donuts, which has several locations across the St. Louis area, is known for its fanciful donuts in flavors that run the gamut from gooey butter to Green Hawaiian Punch. Yet fans of World’s Fair need not worry, as Strange creations will not be showing up in the pint-sized shop on Vandeventer. “I’m probably losing money every time I sell a donut there for a dollar. But I kind of don’t care. Some things need to not be turned into Boost Mobiles or urgent cares,” Bockman says. “It’s special to me, and I know it’s special to the city, and we need to hold on to our heritage, to those little things that are untouched.” Bockman has made a mere handful of changes that should please even regulars: There’s now a mural of Peggy Clanton on the wall, and he serves Strange Donuts roast coffee – “I’m not alone in saying the coffee [before] was real bad. It was horrible,” he laughs – and anything jelly-filled uses Strange’s housemade jelly. “A few years ago, Alton Brown came to St. Louis to speak, and he came to World’s Fair with a camera crew and everything,” Bockman recalls. “And [Peggy] was like, ‘Get out of here! I don’t want this. I don’t need this.’ That’s just comforting to me. So we’ll try to keep it that way.” 1904 S. Vandeventer Ave., Southwest Garden, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.776.9975

“I think our guys are really the best in St. Louis. They can tell what kind of service these folks anticipate, and that’s really important. It takes a long time to become a Tony’s captain, because these things are hard to learn and take years of experience to learn – but our guys are the best at doing it.” 105 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, Missouri, tonysstlouis.com

may 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

The Parkmoor Drive-In Photo by PAIGE MCDONALD

The Parkmoor Drive-In debuted even before Tony’s and World’s Fair Donuts and for decades was a favorite spot of teens experiencing their first taste of freedom across St. Louis. The drive-in was opened in 1930 by William Louis McGinley, who needed an outlet for his new invention: a curb-service food tray that attached to a car window. At one point, McGinley had six Parkmoors in St. Louis that served classic hamburgers, malts and the famous onion rings. By the 1980s, though, just one was left in Clayton – a 1968 California-style building known as “googly architecture.” Despite protestations to the contrary, McGinley’s daughter closed The Parkmoor in 1999, but promised it would rise again for a new millennium. It may have taken two decades, but her prediction came true. A new imagining of the Parkmoor (though, sadly, without car service) opened in the former Half & Half space in Webster Groves, Missouri, in July 2020, helmed by husband-and-wife team Frank Romano and Laura Burns, along with a group of local investors. “When it closed in 1999, I figured, okay, they’ll move it,” Romano says. “It was a big part of St. Louis and a big part of my life in particular. Year after year, I’m like, ‘Oh, somebody’s gonna do it.’ People [eventually] lost hope. It’s 20 years later, and I thought, ‘Is no one else gonna do this?’ So we decided, we’ll do it ourselves.” Chef Eric Tirone makes many dishes based on original Parkmoor recipes, though they are not reproduced exactly. Perhaps the drivein’s most famous dish was the giant Kingburger, which is served now with two steak burger patties, American cheese, shredded lettuce, tomato, pickles, caramelized onions and Parkmoor sauce on a toasted, buttered bun. A customer recently came in and ordered the Kingburger and told Romano that it’s a little bigger than the original. He should know, he reckoned, because at age 17, he won a Kingburger eating contest by keeping down six and a half of them. He admitted that would be impossible with the new version. Romano has been touched by the outpouring of people dropping off nostalgic items from their time at the Parkmoor – there was, for decades, an annual Parkmoor carhop reunion and car show – and telling him stories of how families wouldn’t be here today if it wasn’t for the drive-in. “We’re seeing that generation bring their grandchildren; we’re very family-friendly, and the prices are not outrageous,” Romano says. “I think by doing good service and putting out a top-notch product, that will ensure the success of the Parkmoor.” 220 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, Missouri, theparkmoor.com

feastmagazine.com / jun e 2 0 2 2

y a tgageewtaway E TIM

FOR

PROMOTI ON greatest civic treasures of St. Louis. Home to the Saint Louis Art Museum, St. Louis Science Center, the Missouri History Museum, The Muny, the always-free Saint Louis Zoo and much more.

Sports fan? Hop off the train at the Metro Stadium stop for Cardinals baseball at iconic Busch Stadium. No game, no problem; Ballpark Village across the street brings gameday atmosphere and ballpark vibes seven days a week.

PHOTO OP PROVIDED BY METRO TRANSIT

SPON NSORED CONTENT BY MARY Y MCHU MCHUGH, BRAND AVE. STUDIOS CONTRIBUTING WRITER

Vacation acation season is upon us. Yet tight budgets, busy schedules and travel restrictions can make getting away challenging. Fortunately, St. Louis has a wealth of treasures to enjoy right here in town.

Some lovingly call this a “staycation” or “being a tourist at home.” We call it a Gateway Getaway!

perspective. It begins with a $5 unlimited Metro Day Pass — and ends almost anywhere you want to be.

A Gateway Getaway is any time you get out and experience the St. Louis region from a fresh

Just steps from Metro’s Forest Park/DeBaliviere stop sits Forest Park, one of the

set amidst historic homes and tree-lined boulevards. For a unique blend of college town and big city vibes, take in the Delmar Loop — located right alongside (you guessed it) Metro’s Delmar Loop stop. It’s home to legendary hangout Blueberry Hill, record stores, vintage clothing shops, must-see music venues The Pageant and Delmar Hall, the “unique boutique” Moonrise Hotel and more.

Hungry? Take a culinary journey through the South Grand Dining District on one of Metro’s clean and quiet new electric MetroBuses — just catch the #70 bus at Metro’s Grand stop so you can keep your eyes (and stomach) trained on the most diverse strip of restaurants in St. Louis.

Adrenaline junkies take note: Metro’s Union Station stop looms in the shadow of the 200-foot-high St. Louis Wheel! Or set your sights even higher: Metro’s Laclede’s Landing stop takes you right to the base of the iconic Gateway Arch. Take in the view at 630 feet and then unwind with a riverboat cruise on the Mighty Mississippi.

Step off the train at Metro’s Central West End stop for boutique shopping and a wide variety of bars and restaurants

Download the Transit app and start exploring today. Visit metrostlouis.org for more information.

feastmagazine.com / j u ne 2 02 2

The Tenderloin Room The Tenderloin Room might just be the most storied dining room in St. Louis. The swanky restaurant at The Chase Park Plaza seemed in jeopardy when Royal Sonesta bought the now-century-old hotel in 2019. Luckily, the hospitality group was intent on preserving and restoring The Chase’s glamour. That, of course, included The Tenderloin Room. Royal Sonesta tapped St. Louis restaurateur Bob Brazell to run the new incarnation, taking over from longtime owners Dino and Jules Karagiannis. It might have seemed an odd choice at first, as Brazell is best-known today as the chef behind fried-chicken joint Byrd & Barrel, until you remember that he cut his teeth in the kitchens at (the now-shuttered) Monarch and Niche. “I do come from a fine-dining background,” he says. “[The Tenderloin Room] was one of my first nice meals out as a kid. We got to know the Karagiannis family. I literally would hang out with Dino, go get coffee and chat. We took our time to get to know each other, because his family owned it for so long, and they wanted to make sure it went to somebody that was going to carry on the legacy of it and not turn it into a TGI Friday’s or something.” Although the magic can never be completely recreated – it will never be the same without legendary maitre’d Henry “Hack” Ulrich, who started as a busboy in 1936 and passed away in 2002 – Brazell intentionally walked a fine line of keeping The Tenderloin Room a classic steakhouse

Photo by ED ALLER

while modernizing it. For example, he kept the wood beams that were originally salvaged from a mansion across Lindell Boulevard and had grain hand-painted on because they were so fragile. He kept the stained-glass ceiling and the bar woodwork, while installing more modern chandeliers and wrapping the fireplace in mosaic jade tiles. He brought in new flatware, reupholstered everything and restored the original Tenderloin Room logo, featuring it in mother-of-pearl hand-laid gold leaf on the windows. It’s probably the only place in town you can still get some tableside dishes, a throwback to the Tenderloin Room’s heyday serving The Chase’s celebrity guests, like the Rat Pack and the Rolling Stones. Brazell acknowledges that he could be doing ambitious tasting menus and “putting 13 things on a plate,” but at the end of the day, people come to the Tenderloin Room because they want the best cut of steak possible. “There’s certain places in every city that are just iconic. Generations of people have gone to The Tenderloin Room, and athletes, famous actors and presidents have eaten there,” Brazell says. “It’s important for us to save that stuff. I want generations in the future to still be able to experience something classic.” 232 Kingshighway Blvd. (inside The Chase Park Plaza), Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, tenderloinroom.com

The Fountain on Locust Photo by JACKLYN MEYER

Not all icons are pushing 80. Joy Grdnic opened The Fountain on Locust in 2008, and the famous and fanciful Midtown spot quickly became known for its fountain ice cream, colorful Art Deco murals and dill pickle soup.

ethos of the restaurant was the ambiance, the décor, the menu – those are all incredibly strong, and things we don’t want to change,” Eickenhorst says. “There’s not much to change; there are only things to add.”

Grdnic was thinking about retiring before the pandemic hit, but she put it on hold to make sure The Fountain on Locust survived, giving her time to find the right people to take over the iconic spot.

The Eickenhorsts were careful to listen to what The Fountain’s customers were asking for, namely, dietary diversity. The menu was already gluten free-friendly, but for those with issues with dairy, it could be tricky. Eickenhorst says they were careful to make the restaurant a place where diners can be gluten-free, dairyfree or vegetarian and “not even give it a second thought.” It now offers dairy-free, vegan ice cream in its signature Martinis, for example.

“Joy was very clear that she envisioned us as being the people,” says Danni Eickenhorst, who, along with her husband, Marcus, bought The Fountain last year. “She had the foresight to pick us out because she knew she needed to step away. I don’t know if she’ll ever [really] retire – she’s got so much energy and creativity, but she wanted the restaurant to be able to carry on.” Eickenhorst was serving as COO for Keller Williams Company at the time, but Grdnic had seen what the couple had done as co-owners of Steve’s Hot Dogs, which recently moved to a larger location on South Grand. “We knew we would be the right people for it, because the

“This place, for me, is magic,” Eickenhorst says. “I believe strongly in preserving the things that make this city great. Instead of somebody coming in for a one-time visit, we’re trying to build that community so they stay a part of the Fountain family and keep coming again and again and again.” 3037 Locust St., Midtown, St. Louis, Missouri, fountainonlocust.com

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