s u n da e f u n day
m e e t m e at t h e fa i r
mudbug madness
central dairy
sutter’s taffy
delta crawfish
Inspired Local Food Culture | M i dw e st
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Take saltwater taffy for a spin on p. 56
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Inspired Local Food Culture
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A FEAST OF FAME, FORTUNE & FUN
99 Hops House hosts the ultimate Hollywood Casino Amphitheater pre and post-concert parties, with great food specials, drinks on the patio and more. Or, turn your concert night into a date night with an amazing dinner at Final Cut Steakhouse, where the finest steaks and succulent seafood meet unbelievable service.
RIDE OUR PARTY BUS TO THE HOLLYWOOD CASINO AMPHITHEATER AND BACK AND SKIP ALL THE PARKING LOT TRAFFIC. HOTEL PACKAGES ARE ALSO AVAILABLE ON OUR WEBSITE.
HOLLYWOODCASINOSTLOUIS.COM H 888-STL-GAME H 314-77O-81OO Must be 21. Gambling problem? In Missouri, call 1-888-BE TS-OFF or visit 888betsof f.org.
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Inspired Local Food Culture | M i dw e st
JULY 2016 from the staff |8|
FEATURES | 27 |
We head to Leinenkugel’s Kansas City for beer cocktails and Reuben hot dogs. In his monthly column, The Mix, Matt Seiter preps for summer party season with batch cocktails, and in On Trend, we combine coffee and tonic for a refreshing warm-weather pick-me-up.
froM the PUBLisher
Summer spectacular.
| 10 |
digitaL content
What’s online this month.
| 12 |
feast tv
A look at the artisan meat episode.
| 15 |
dine This month, we visit three restaurants, including a Southern-inspired spot in Missouri wine country, and get fresh with poké. In our monthly travel piece, Road Trip, writer Amy Lynch visits Nashville, Tennessee, and shares where to dine, drink and stay this month during the Music City Hot Chicken Festival.
drinK
| 43 |
cooK
| 44 | heaLthy aPPetite Classic summer potato salad gets a healthy upgrade with kale and pesto.
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| 48 | Mystery shoPPer buy it and try it: octopus.
| 50 | MenU oPtions Make the most of summer vegetables in this delicious seasonal pasta.
| 36 |
shoP
We visit the much-anticipated Kounter Kulture in St. Louis, talk to the sisters behind a gourmet cotton candy event service and stock up for barbecue season in Kansas City. We also find the perfect portable wine to take on your next float trip.
| 52 | sweet ideas Pastry chef Chrisy Augustin’s peach-balsamic swirl ice cream is sure to cool you off.
65
endless summer
The King family has ruled concessions at state and county fairs far and wide for the past 30 years – and now they’re on a quest to pull saltwater taffy back into local food culture.
Pinch, Peel, eat, rePeat
Crawfish, crayfish, crawdads, mudbugs: You can call them whatever you like at Delta Crawfish in Paragould, Arkansas, as long as you also call them delicious.
COvER PHOTO OF HERRINFESTA ITALIANA (P. 56) bY juDD DEMALINE TAbLE OF CONTENTS PHOTO OF CHRIS bOLYARD’S OMNIvuRgER WITH KIMCHI (P. 86) bY j. POLLACK PHOTOgRAPHY
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frozen in time
People flock to one of Missouri’s oldest ice cream parlors for scoops, sundaes and a taste of summer – but first, they have to get in line.
burgers + brews
Eight chefs share their favorite off-the-clock burger recipes.
Magazine Volume 7
| Issue 7 | July 2016
Vice President of Niche Publishing, Publisher of Feast Magazine Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com
If you’re looking for an all-inclusive vacation spot on the most amazing, sun-drenched beaches of Mexico, look no further than the oceanfront Crown Paradise Resorts in Cancun and Puerto Vallarta. You’ll find the highest standards of hospitality along with well furnished rooms, and a wide variety of activities including specialty restaurants, night time entertainment, water parks, discounts at select golf courses, spas and much more. Crown Paradise Resorts offer the best facilities for weddings, honeymoons and groups. The Crown Paradise Golden All Inclusive Resort is an exclusive paradise for adults on the spectacular shores of Banderas Bay in Puerto Vallarta, offering extraordinary service and cuisine in a privileged setting of natural beauty. Crown Paradise Cancun and Crown Paradise Club Puerto Vallarta are focused on fun for couples, families and friends. Kids will have the time of their lives at the water park, and the family room in Puerto Vallarta is ideal for families of five. Savor à la carte Mediterranean specialties at the Paradise in the Crown Paradise Golden All Inclusive Resort in Puerto Vallarta, renowned for its magnificent personalized service, exquisite gourmet cuisine & spectacular flambéed coffee show.
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SALES Director of Sales Angie Henshaw ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1298 Account Manager Jennifer Tilman jtilman@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1205 EDITORIAL Senior Editor Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Managing Editor Nancy Stiles, nstiles@feastmagazine.com Associate Editor Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com Digital Editor Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor Mabel Suen Editorial Intern Sarah Kloepple Proofreader Christine Wilmes
The Apple Advantage
Contributing Writers Christy Augustin, Sherrie Castellano, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pete Dulin, Hilary Hedges, Audra Jenkins, Valeria Turturro Klamm, Amy Lynch, Brandon and Ryan Nickelson, Daniel Puma, Matt Seiter, Matt Sorrell, Shannon Weber
Non-Stop Exclusive Vacation Flights from St. Louis #1 Vacation Company to Mexico Worldwide Airport/Hotel Transfers always included
ART Art Director Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com
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Production Designer Jacklyn Meyer, jmeyer@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers Zach Bauman, Sherrie Castellano, Judd Demaline, Travis Duncan, Jonathan Gayman, Natalie Hinds, Amy Long, Jacklyn Meyer, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Jonathan Pollack, Macy Salama, Starboard & Port Creative, Mabel Suen, Landon Vonderschmidt, Cheryl Waller FEAST TV
producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios
CONTACT US Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1244, feastmagazine.com DISTRIbUTION To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Jeff Moore for St. Louis, Jefferson City and Columbia at jmoore@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.
Contact your travel agent today!
Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2016 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC
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contributors
07.16 starboard & port creative Springfield, Missouri, Photographers Starboard & Port Creative was born on a sandy beach in New Jersey when George Ferris and Chase Heilman came together through their fondness of travel and photography. With a clink of two bourbon glasses, they headed back to the Midwest and planted roots in the Ozarks. Combining their two different photography backgrounds allowed for an expansive portfolio. When not on location, they can be found in their downtown Springfield studio listening to smooth jazz, sipping whiskey and handing out high-fives.
pete dulin Kansas City, Writer Kansas City-based writer, photographer and avid cook, Pete is the author of Last Bite: 100 Simple Recipes from Kansas City’s Best Chefs and Cooks and Kansas City Ale Trail, which explores regional craft breweries. He once night-fished for squid on a rollicking trawler in the Gulf of Thailand after a dinner of curry and Thai whiskey. It didn’t end well.
jonathan pollack St. Louis, Photographer Jonathan began his photography career in 2007 with a single subject – cupcakes. By taking hundreds of images of these tasty treats for his wife’s baking blog, Cupcake Project, he taught himself the art of food photography. Today, he photographs a wide range of food for both editorial and commercial clients, which happily gives him many more eating opportunities. Although a dripping burger can certainly stir up desire, Jonathan appreciates the opportunity to evoke a wider range of emotions through candid photography in his other lines of work: wedding and bar and bat mitzvah photography. Jonathan’s images have been featured in many national publications, and he loves working with his many local clients, as well. You can see more of his photos at jpollackphoto.com and on Instagram (@ jpollackphoto), where you can also meet his chickens.
CURTAIN CALL LOUNGE OUN O
open thursday - saturday all summer long with entertainment every night! Happy Hour 5 - 8pm
audra jenkins Columbia, Missouri, Writer Audra fell into food writing by accident when an innocent question – “How many restaurants can there be?” – sent her eating at each and every restaurant in Columbia, Missouri, after moving back to her home state from Denver. (Answer: There are more Chinese strip-mall locations than you might imagine.) Audra writes about food and family for Inside Columbia magazine and the Columbia Daily Tribune, where she’s tried to claim a few restaurant tables and bar stools as “the office.” She’s a big fan of learning, traveling, reading, writing and meeting interesting people – and doing all of these things with a glass of wine. You can connect with her on Twitter @audrajenkins.
CuLINary TrEaTS, DINNErS & BEVEraGE TaSTINGS July 7 Summer Still & Sparkling Wine Tasting w 7 - 8:30pm July 14 Jed Steele Wine Dinner w 7 - 8:30pm July 21 World Tour of Sparkling Wines Tasting Class w 7 - 8:30pm July 28 Big Night Movie & Wine Dinner w 7 - 10pm Aug 4 Rose Champagne Tasting Class w 7 - 8:30pm Aug 11 Pinckney Bend Craft Cocktail Class w 7 - 8:30pm Aug 18 Prosecco Tasting Class w 7 - 8:30pm Aug 25 Babette’s Feast Movie & Wine Dinner w 7 - 10pm See CurtainCallSTL.com for descriptions and ticket prices
STarS oF THE muNy CoNCErT SErIES
Talented Muny performers take a break from rehearsals for their upcoming Muny productions to present a variety of music. No cover charge.
July 9 July 16 July 23 July 30
Stars of The Muny’s Young Frankenstein w 8pm Stars of The Muny’s Mamma Mia! w 8pm Stars of The Muny’s Fiddler on the Roof w 8pm Stars of The Muny’s Elton John & Tim Rice’s Aida w 8pm
more local entertainment friday & saturday nights see curtaincallstl.com for full calendar
Inspired Local Food Culture
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publisher’s letter
FeAst eVeNts
senior editor liz miller dubbed this issue “summer spectacular” as a working title during
PHOTOGRAPHY BY LP CREATIVE STuDIO
our various brainstorm sessions. As the content was developed, though, it stuck. Our July edition is full to overflowing with summery eats and drinks, truly a spectacular ode to the season.
Nothing says summertime like a classic American cheeseburger and a cold beer. Beginning on p. 80, you’ll find a roundup of burger recipes from some of Missouri’s best chefs. These aren’t For this episode of Feast TV, focused on artisan meat, I stuffed a burgers they’re serving at their boneless pork loin with spicy ‘nduja from La Quercia, one of the spots restaurants – these are recipes we visited for the show. Check out feastmagazine.com for the recipe. for the burgers they make for themselves when they are off the clock, paired with their favorite brews. These unique recipes reflect the personality of each chef. Another quintessentially American summer tradition is state and county fairs, where the food is just as much a part of the experience as the rides. Funnel cakes, lemonade, corn dogs and saltwater taffy define fair flavor and the King family is continuing a multigeneration tradition, making everything on site, from scratch. Liz Miller met with the family at their home base in Herrin, Illinois, and brings you their sweet story on p. 56. Crawfish boils define summer flavor for folks up and down the Mississippi and along the many spring-fed rivers in our area. On p. 65, managing editor Nancy Stiles digs up the story behind Delta Crawfish in Paragould, Arkansas, and answers this burning question: Are they crawfish, crawdads, crayfish or mudbugs? And finally, what’s summer without ice cream? Central Dairy is a mid-Missouri stalwart that’s been scooping up creamy goodness for decades and digital editor Heather Riske had a chance to sit down with the general manager over a heaping sundae. Turn to p. 73 to learn the history behind the iconic brand. Finally, I am thrilled to announce that we are now offering hard-copy distribution in Springfield, Missouri, and towns along Interstate 44. We are constantly covering the Springfield and southern Missouri dining scene in our pages and at feastmagazine.com and I am very excited to make the magazine available in those areas.
stl
stl
Presented by Big Green Egg, Pig & Swig is St. Louis’ premier barbecue and whiskey event. It will feature food from local barbecue vendors such as Sugarfire Smoke House and Salt and Smoke, as well as a variety of fine whiskeys and craft beers. stl
Sat., July 9, 8:30am to 12pm; Ferguson Farmers’ Market; facebook.com/chefscookreal
Chef Wayne Judge of Bon Vivant Bakery battles chef Roxanne Bowers of Mr. B’s Salsa in the next cookoff of the series. Will the chef with the “hot stuff” or the one with the “baked goods” win the day? Watch the action to find out. Get a voting noodle, sample the dishes and choose your favorite. Winner goes to the grand finale in October. KC
Feast of Fountains: A Food truck Fest Thu., July 14, 5:30 to 7:30pm; Northland Fountain; feastmagazine.com/events
Join us for a food truck event each month from May to September in one of Kansas City’s beautiful parks. We’ll highlight prominent fountains throughout the city while guests enjoy food from some of Kansas City’s most popular food trucks. stl
Feast TV taste & see: bbQ & spirits Fri., July 15, 7pm; Public Media Commons; $15; ninenet.org
Watch Feast TV segments and enjoy presentations and samples from chefs and distilleries featured on the show. We’ll sample these American classics, meet the people behind the smokers and enjoy cocktails from our region’s best distilleries. stl stl
KC
Feast Your eyes Tue., July 19, 6:30pm; Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis; $50 for members, $75 for non-members; camstl.org
Featuring the culinary masterpieces of Matthew Daughaday, executive chef of Reeds American Table, CAM presents a museum tour followed by an intimate four-course, farm-to-table dinner inspired by the current exhibitions.
4 hands beer Dinner at Ollie’s local Wed., July 20, 7pm; Ollie’s Local; $40; bit.ly/1w1c0e2
Enjoy a multicourse dinner paired with 4 Hands Brewing Co. beers including Single Speed, Lemon Gose, Dakine and Cloud 9, an American pale ale with raspberries, vanilla and lime zest. stl
schnucks Cooks: Grilled summer Vegetable pasta Wed., July 27, 6 to 9pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School; $40; schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704
In this class you’ll learn how to perfectly grill or cook and caramelize a variety of vegetables. You’ll also learn how to expertly bake flaky and flavorful fish and use in-season blueberries to make a tart with fresh whipped cream.
st. louis Craft beer Week St. Louis has an unparalleled beer history. St. Louis Craft Beer Week is a celebration of that history. Each night of this event will provide an opportunity to talk to brewers, pair food and beer, advocate local beer and meet other beer enthusiasts. This is your chance to really see everything that the St. Louis beer scene has to offer.
Catherine Neville
july 2 0 1 6
Chefs Cook real Challenge
Fri., July 29 through Sat., Aug. 6; stlbeerweek.com
Until next time,
feastmagazine.com
pig & swig Fri., July 8 and Sat., July 9; Ballpark Village; stlballparkvillage.com/pigandswig
stl
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Fri., July 1 to Sun., July 31; participating St. Louis restaurants; operationfoodsearch.com
Throughout July, over 140 top local restaurants will donate a portion of the sales from a special tomato dish to help Operation Food Search connect kids to nutritious meals this summer.
There is so much to explore in our region and summer is the perfect season for a food-focused journey. I hope this issue gives you some ideas for spots to visit when you want to hit the road and recipes to try when you’re in the mood to grill at home.
publisher@feastmagazine.com
tomato explosion 2016
@cat_neville
@cat_neville
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DIGITAL CONTENT
hungry for more?
feastmagazine.com
connect with us daily:
fACEbook. Get a behind-the-scenes look at food-and-drink events (like our Schnucks Cooking Class in St. Louis) at facebook.com/feastmag.
PhoToGRaPhy By JaCKLyN MeyeR
thE fEEd: StL Chef Steve Cupp has brought a taste of New Orleans to University City, Missouri, with the opening of PerJax Americana Kitchen, which serves comfort-food favorites and fresh seafood including this jambalaya-inspired pasta.
tWIttEr. Follow @feastmag to see where we’re
dining and drinking across the region (like the 35th annual art Fair & Winefest in Washington, Missouri).
PhoToGRaPhy By SheRRie CaSTeLLaNo
PIntErESt. Cool off with refreshing summer cocktails (like Bloody Marys with fresh-squeezed heirloom tomato juice) on our Cocktails board at pinterest.com/feastmag.
PhoToGRaPhy CouRTeSy @WeeaTSTuFFSTL
PhoToGRaPhy By aNa PieRCe
thE fEEd: mId-mo Since opening in Springfield, Missouri, last fall, Black Sheep Burgers & Shakes has proved to beso popular that a second location opened this May. The burger joint a patio and a must-try fried chicken sandwich.
TasTe & see
morE on thE fEEd: Keep up with what’s happening in the region’s food-and-drink scene by visiting our daily updated news blog, The Feed, at feastmagazine.com/the-feed. We shared Gerard Craft’s plans to close Niche in the St. Louis area and reopen it as Sardella, and visited Crane Brewing Co.’s new taproom in Raytown, Missouri. SPECIAL GIVEAWAY: Win a pair of tickets to Feast TV Taste & See: BBQ & Spirits on Fri., July 15. Just head
to the Promotions section at feastmagazine.com for all the details.
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InStAGrAm. hashtag your local food-and-drink photos with #feastgram for a chance to see them in Feast! Details on p. 90. Follow us @feastmag.
Watch our videos and Feast TV.
youtube.com/FeastMagazine
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Saturday, August 13 - 10am-6pm Sunday, August 14 - 9am-4pm ARTS, CRAFTS, GIFTS & COLLECTIBLES! FOOD, DRINK , CAR SHOW AND ENTERTAINMENT!!
Limited free parking in Historic District. Shuttle Bus Service available for minimal fee. For more information, call the Welcome Center 800.373.7007 • www.saintegenevievejourdefete.
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Feast Your Eyes: Matthew Daughaday Matthew Daughaday, Executive Chef of Reed’s American Table, presents a four-course farm-to-table dinner inspired by CAM’s exhibitions.
Tuesday, July 19 Tour: 6:30 pm Dinner: 7:00 pm $75; $50 for members camstl.org/feast
Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis 3750 Washington Blvd 314.535.4660
JOIN US FOR SUNDAY BRUNCH OR DINNER! Enjoy Our Award Winning Breakfast Menu With Our Delicious Boozy Breakfast Cocktails & Chef Mehmet© s Whole Roasted Lamb. Lunch: Tues-Fri :: Dinner: Tues-Sun :: Sunday Brunch Wine Flights: Tues-Wed :: Happy Hour: Tues-Fri Available for Private Parties and Catering
Turkish Mediterranean Cuisine. Known for our Meze (Small Plates), Lamb Dishes, Fresh Fish and Excellent Wine Selection.
6671 Chippewa Street • St. Louis • 314.645.9919 • ayasofiacuisine.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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find out how some of the country’s best charcuterie is made at la quercia in norwalk, iowa. just salt, time, and varying temperature and humidity are used to cure pork and create silken prosciutto.
TV
small-scale meat production is making a comeback across the country, and in this episode, we visit newman farm and then head to bolyard’s meat & provisions, where a chef-turned-butcher brings a culinary approach to his neighborhood shop. we also visit la quercia, one of the country’s foremost charcuterie makers and stop by wenneman meat market, a full-service processor that has been taking cattle and hogs from slaughter to an in-house meat counter since 1927. in the kitchen, host cat neville will show you how to make an ‘nduja-stuffed pork roulade worthy of your next dinner party.
in st. libory, illinois, wenneman meat market has continued its tradition of on-site slaughter, processing and aging since 1927. tour this unique facility and see how it is keeping tradition alive while incorporating modern technology.
great-tasting meat starts with well-treated animals. at newman farm heritage berkshire pork in myrtle, missouri, heritage-breed hogs are treated with care, and the result is world-class quality and flavor.
feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors: Missouri Wines
WhoLe Foods Market
L’ écoLe cuLinaire
Missouri Wines supports the more than 125 wineries operating in the state and is focused on promoting the industry’s growth and vitality.
Feast TV is proud to feature Whole Foods Market’s 365 Everyday Value line of products. Pick up ingredients at the Whole Foods locations in the St. Louis area.
In St. Louis and Kansas City, L’École Culinaire offers high-quality culinary education from basic culinary skills to careers in management.
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the raphaeL hoteL
neW seasons spa and saLon
The Raphael Hotel is Feast’s official hotel, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.
New Seasons Spa and Salon in south St. Louis County offers a full range of spa services and is the official salon of Feast TV.
SEE THE LAKE FROM ANYWHERE!
In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Saturdays and Sundays at 6:30pm.
CONNECT WITH US! MYLAKETV.COM COMO 90 | CHARTER 197 FIDELITY | ROKU In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Sundays at 5:30pm.
You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Thursdays at 8pm and Saturdays at 4:30pm.
Feast TV will air in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) every Monday at 12:30pm.
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314-842-6500 #1 Ronnies Plaza St. Louis MO 63126 Inspired Local Food Culture
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Celebrate summer with a traditional Louisiana crawfish boil!
6:30 PM
7.13.16
Plus specials on Hurricanes, Milk Punch & Sazeracs!
Get your ticket now, they’re sure to go fast! Details: www.SanctuariaSTL.com/Crawfish www.SanctuariaSTL.com | /SanctuariaSTL | @SanctuariaTapas (314) 535-9700 | 4198 Manchester Avenue, St. Louis, MO 63110 14
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where we’re dining
catch southern-style seafood on p. 18 photography by natalie hinds
trending now: Poké
on trend
Written by bethany Christo PhotograPhy by aaron ottis
Poké is a Hawaiian dish that typically features raw, chilled ahi tuna, also known as yellowfin, tossed with sesame oil, soy sauce and toasted sesame seeds. Chefs are getting creative with poké this summer, adding pops of flavor and texture to this refreshing dish. stl
tartare
St. louiS. “i feel like we’re always rejecting tuna when it comes in,” says harry sexauer, executive chef at The Tavern Kitchen & Bar, with a laugh. the tavern’s two st. louis-area locations receive sushi-grade ahi tuna four days a week, which is often caught just the day before. the quality of fish is of the utmost importance, as its flavor is highlighted so heavily in sexauer’s poké appetizer. First, the tuna is cubed and mixed with sweet yellow onions, english cucumbers, roma tomatoes and “poké sauce” made with soy sauce, sesame oil and truffle oil. next, the tuna is spooned over a bed of medium-grain Calrose rice and garnished with housemade guacamole, sesame seeds and pink hawaiian salt. “a lot of the stuff we do is asian in concept, but we’re not afraid to fuse flavors with other cuisines to really fill them out,” he says. “the tuna is fresh; the raw vegetables are crispy and crunchy; the creaminess from the avocado, the saltiness from the soy and added complexity with the truffle oil – it works really well for us.”
The Tavern Kitchen & Bar, multiple locations, tavernstl.com
kc
nachos
kAnSAS CitY. the poké stack at Yard House, which has two Kansas City-area locations, has been on the menu for two decades. Cubed sushi-grade raw ahi tuna is mixed with wakame seaweed, sesame seeds, indonesian sambal oelek chile sauce, soy sauce and sea salt, and served between two crisp wonton chips. the stack also features a daikon radish-carrot-sesame slaw, avocado and wasabisoy sauce. “the way we used to eat it was poi, dried shrimp and poké – very simple,” says vice president and corporate executive chef Carlito Jocson, who has relatives in hawaii. “For the stack, i wanted different layers of flavor and textures. We have a cult following of people who come for that alone.” the fan favorite got an update June 23 in poké nachos, a sharable version of the stack. Pokéis seasoned similarly and served over a basket of wonton crisps with thinly sliced serrano chiles, nori seaweed sprinkles, toasted black and white sesame seeds, and fresh cilantro. three sauces are drizzled over top: soy-white truffle aïoli, lemon-sriracha and mirin-soy.
Yard House, multiple locations, yardhouse.com
como
napoleon
ColuMBiA, Mo. Poké is chef-owner Chris McDonnell’s favorite small plate and also the signature dish at his Columbia, Missouri, restaurant, Chris McD’s. his ahi Poké napoleon has been on the menu since 1994 and has been a hit for nearly as long. McDonnell dices fresh ahi tuna or a saku block of frozen no. 1 sushi-grade ahi tuna, mixes it in a sesame-soy vinaigrette and tops it with toasted sesame seeds, sesame oil and scallions. this mixture is then stacked, napoleon-style, between crisp wonton triangles and plated with wasabi mustard, a soy reduction and mango salsa. he first fell in love with poké during an interview for a resort chef job in hawaii; he ultimately took the job and was able to enjoy poké made with fresh-caught fish for breakfast, lunch or dinner. although he can’t get poké that fresh in Columbia, of his three fish purveyors, he can usually put an order in one day and it will arrive the next. “i’ve always thought [poké] was wonderful – just a little bit different style from sashimi,” McDonnell says.
Chris McD’s, 1400 Forum Blvd., Columbia, Missouri, 573.446.6237, chrismcds.com
CHris MCD’s Poké reCiPe by Chris MCDonnell, CheF-oWner, Chris MCD’s
Serves | 2 | 8 ¼ 2 ½ 1 1 2 1 ½ ½
oz diced fresh No. 1 sushi-grade ahi tuna cup soy sauce Tbsp sesame oil Tbsp roughly chopped cilantro Tbsp thinly sliced red onion pinch crushed red pepper Tbsp dried seaweed (optional) Tbsp mirin oz rice wine vinegar tsp toasted black sesame seeds tsp toasted white sesame seeds
| Preparation | in a medium dish with a cover, combine all ingredients except sesame seeds and mix. Make sure tuna is completely submerged in liquid, cover dish and chill for up to 3 hours in refrigerator. When ready to serve, sprinkle both sesame seeds over top.
“The flavor with the sesame oil glazed over it, the toasted sesame seeds and a little bit of spice from the crushed red pepper – it really does pop in your mouth.” –Chris McDonnell, chef-owner, Chris McD’s
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david friesen owner, betty rae’s ice cream
q&A
WrIttEn by VaLErIa turturro KLamm
Homemade Greek Food
KANSAS CITY. at Betty Rae’s Ice Cream in Kansas city, owner David Friesen treats ice cream-making like running a bakery. “there’s something lovely about the bakery model,” he says. “Everything is fresh and ready to go in the morning, you’re trying to hit every flavor palate and there are things only made one week and never made again.” Friesen was the manager of Sparky’s homemade Ice cream in columbia, missouri, before moving to ohio and working at Jeni’s Splendid Ice creams. he got additional experience at Sasha’s baking co. and heirloom bakery & hearth in Kansas city before opening betty rae’s with his wife, mary, in the Waldo neighborhood in march.
Betty Rae’s Ice Cream, 7140 Wornall Road, Waldo, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.237.1168, bettyraes.com
oLYmPIa keBoB HoUSe aNd TaVerNa Patio Now open 7 days a week from 11am 1543 McCausland • 314-781-1299
VIDAL BLANC to beat the summer heat WWW.EDG-CLIF.COM
photography by zach bauman
What did you learn at Sparky’s and Jeni’s about making ice cream? at Sparky’s, the owner would give us free rein to make up flavors on the fly. Lavender-honey was one mary and I created there. other kitchens might have used lavender oil, but we used the flower and steeped it instead. If you have the ingredient, use the thing itself – it’s a deeper flavor. If Sparky’s was high school, then Jeni’s was like college. they had so much more equipment; they’re working on a whole different level. I got into baking bread and pastries, and it lead me to think I can apply the bakery model to ice cream. How are you doing that at Betty Rae’s? In bakeries, you have to know how to produce a large volume and assemble it in parts. I have a big mixer, an oven and a cooler for all the fresh fruit and ice cream bases prepared in advance, and we can do all the baking ourselves. We’ve been making sheet cake and mixing it into ice cream, like lemon-poppy seed cake. We make brownies for sundaes, cookies for ice cream sandwiches and from-scratch waffle-cone batter, and we’re developing croissants and puff pastry. all of our sauces are made in house – strawberry, fudge, caramel, peanut butter and marshmallow fluff – and we brew espresso for coffee ice cream, drinks and affogato. Tell us about your ice cream flavors. We have a gelato-style display case for 24 flavors. It’s hard to stop at 24; I’ve had so many ideas. We have the basics – vanilla bean, coffee, chocolate. Some of our heavy hitters include lavender-honey, brown butter-toasted pecan, plum, lemon-poppy seed and mint-chocolate cookie. We introduced a root beer flavor in april: you could always take root beer and reduce it, but instead we got all the spices and roots together – sassafras, burdock, cloves, coriander, a bunch of other things. If you take everything at the right proportions, it tastes just like root beer. In may, I did a cardamom-fudge swirl in avocado ice cream, which I’ll bring back when I can. We’re also planning on offering adult shakes once our liquor license is approved. Who is Betty Rae? my grandmother. She loved cooking for people. She would always be trying new things, pushing herself and doing it so people could have fun. What has been the most rewarding part of owning your own shop? Seeing people enjoy it. the age range – I looked out at the dining room the other day and there was a baby eating ice cream, and I saw a guy who must have been in his 90s having a scoop of butter-pecan.
Carry out • Catering Private Parties Gyros • Kebobs • Baklava
Inspired Local Food Culture
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where we’re dining From new restaurants to renewed menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining this month.
silly goose
stl
written by nancy StileS photography by natalie hindS
AUGUSTA, MO. Silly Goose opened in augusta,
KC
sweet caroline’s ice box
written by Jenny Vergara photography by anna petrow
KANSAS CITY. a mutual love for a favorite childhood treat was the inspiration behind Sweet Caroline’s Ice Box, the shaved-ice truck from cosmetologists ellen purvis and Maureen blount. they make their signature dessert by shaving ice light as air, and then they generously drizzle up to three flavors on top. expect traditional fruit flavors like orange, grape and raspberry, as well as some more playful ones like bubblegum and tiger’s blood – a combination of coconut and strawberry – or the truck’s signature strawberry-lemonade. but Sweet caroline’s is more than just shaved ice: be sure to try the soft and chewy ice cream sandwiches occasionally on offer, made with cookies, brownies or even belgian waffles stuffed with ice cream and rolled in everything from chocolate chips to pistachios, pretzels or cornflakes. Find the truck at upcoming events including the Strawberry Swing’s summer fair July 23 or the Vintage whites Market aug. 26 and 27, or parked around town at various parks and green spaces. Sweet caroline’s ice box is also available to rent for private parties, weddings and festivals; purvis and blount have recently purchased and rehabbed a second truck to keep up with their busy summer schedule.
Sweet Caroline’s Ice Box, Kansas City, Missouri, sweetcarolinesicebox.com 18
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Missouri, in december 2014, but its family recipes go back generations. the Southern-inspired restaurant emphasizes ingredients sourced from nearby farms, including produce from centennial Farms and Sunflower hill Farm, and executive chef anastasia adelman’s seasonally rotating menu is small but focused. a customer favorite is the pig wings appetizer tossed with carolina mustard sauce served with pickled vegetables. large plates include fried soft-shell crab, orange-chipotle ribs and a gumbo-smothered pork chop with saffron rice. Silly goose oose is located in the heart of Missouri wine country and offers local wine tastings on a rotating basis. in the next month or so, Silly goose will be opening the cookie doe two doors down, offering seasonal baked goods from chef adelman delman including fresh breads, scones, tarts, pies, donuts, cookies, cupcakes and more. both spots are just steps from several augusta bed-and-breakfasts and blocks from augusta winery, Mount pleasant estates and augusta brewing co. Silly Goose, 5501 Locust St., Augusta, Missouri, 636.482.4667, sillygoosemo.com
mo
scarlett’s wine bar Story And photoGrAphy By MABeL Suen
ST. LOUIS. there is now another reason to
visit St. Louis’ vibrant Central West end: Scarlett’s Wine Bar. the younger sibling of Sasha’s, Sasha’s on Shaw and deMun oyster Bar features wine, cocktails, pizza, charcuterie and cheese plates, and more. unlike its sister concepts, however, Scarlett’s boasts an exciting new component: a wood-fired oven. housemade dough gets baked with a variety of toppings, such as the prosciutto and pear with thinly sliced prosciutto, Bartlett pears, extra-virgin olive oil, scallions and fresh mozzarella. the neapolitan-style pizzas replace Sasha’s flatbread versions, in classic preparations like Margherita and less-traditional concoctions like a breakfast pie topped with Italian sausage, bacon, mozzarella and a sunny-side-up egg. From the bar, choose from 17 white and 17 red wines available by the glass as well as around 10 rosés. Several beers are available in addition to a selection of house cocktails including a summer-ready watermelon hard lemonade. enjoy it all among a space that, fittingly, pays tribute to its namesake color palette: deep red walls commingle with bronze décor and a white marble bar in the dining room, while a cozy patio provides plenty of space for sipping and snacking. Scarlett’s Wine Bar, 4253 Laclede Ave., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.797.8223, facebook.com/scarlettswinebar
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david sandusky
cellar house
co-owner, beast craft bbq co.
q&A
Written by Daniel puma
BeLLeVILLe, IL. David and meggan Sandusky opened Beast Craft BBQ Co. a year
photography by j. pollack photography
and a half ago in belleville, illinois. Since then, recognition has poured in for the restaurant’s killer barbecue, and even those reluctant to cross the river were won over by David’s meticulous standard for ribs, brisket and more. With a passionate staff and a second-to-none attitude, beast craft is raising the bar for delicious ‘cue in the greater St. louis area.
wine
+
beer
+
cocktails
+
small plates
6039 Telegraph Road Oakville, Missouri www.bottlecellars.com
+
desserts
314 - 846 - 5100
SmOkIn’ GoOd TiMe (314) 621-3107 #1 RATED BAR B QUE RESTAURANT ZAGAT, 2013 & 2014 1627 S. 9th Street St. Louis, MO 63104 bogartssmokehouse.com
Q
How did you get into barbecue? i was in fine dining for about 12 years. that was really fun, but at some point i realized i kind of fell out of love with that style of food – i needed to cook food with more of a cultural connection that people really care about. any chef will tell you cooking is really about what’s in your soul; it’s a way to express what you have inside. [at beast craft] we’re trying to evoke memories of good times, and i think that’s what barbecue should be. i got into the business because i needed to do something that fulfilled me, and that’s feeding people’s souls, in a sense. i had about seven years of training under a couple of mentors. i took little bits from this guy, little bits from that guy and turned it into my own thing. What sets Beast Craft apart? barbecue’s religious. When you’re at a bonfire with the boys drinking beer, you don’t talk religion, you don’t talk politics and you don’t talk barbecue, because everyone has [his or her] own style and own beliefs. it’s not that we’re serving things that are off-the-wall or different from what everyone else is doing; [it’s that] we’re ruthless about what we serve, and we’re extremely passionate about it. We use the phrase “all killer no filler” because this menu is written in a way where i do whatever i want, whenever i want. if it’s not great, it’s not going on the menu that day. How do you develop your daily menu? a lot of the stuff is static, but that doesn’t mean we don’t test everything every single day. i’d rather have someone be pissed because something’s not on the menu that day than serve something mediocre. We’re going to have pig, brisket [and] ribs every day. We change the specials [and] the sides all the time – it depends on what’s in season. everything we put on the menu is the best we can put out, or it gets cut. What menu items are you particularly excited about? if you want to come in here and understand who we are, you get the pork steak. however, i personally believe that you can’t walk into a barbecue restaurant for the first time without ordering the pulled pork, at least in the midwest and on the east coast. our pulled pork is something i pay close attention to, and i would put it up against anybody’s. i’m happy to say even the pulled pork will blow you away. What’s next? We hope to open another restaurant late next year, [but] we do not intend to carbon copy. i need an outlet – i need to be able to do things that i want to do here and can’t.
tue-thur. 4pm-12am fri. 4pm-1:30am sat. 2pm-1:30am
smoking up this joint since February 18, 2011
FOR ALL YOUR CATERING NEEDS
Beast Craft BBQ Co., 20 S. Belt W, Belleville, Illinois, 618.257.9000, beastcraftbbq.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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destination: nashville, tennessee
road trip
WRiTTEN BY AMY LYNCH
Since 2007, the Music City Hot Chicken Festival has been spicing up the Fourth of July in Nashville, Tennessee, with a parade followed by hot chicken, cold beer and live music. If you can’t stand the heat, food trucks offer cooler options, and The Pied Piper Creamery is on hand to put out the fire with ice cream. You might pick up a tip or two at the amateur cooking competition; afterward, stroll downtown to catch the annual fireworks display. For more information, visit hot-chicken.com/festival.
sleep
eat
Urban Cowboy is a recent East Nashville addition near the eclectic Five Points district. Following in the footsteps of its Brooklyn flagship, the new Urban Cowboy lets you hunker down in a historic Queen Anne mansion, modernizing the bed-and-breakfast concept with eight contemporary suites and common spaces dressed in an art deco-Southwestern mashup. Each room boasts its own unique design, and all offer plush Wright-mattressed beds and clawfoot bathtubs.
The recipient of a James Beard Foundation America’s Classics award in 2009, this friendly cafeteria-style eatery is the place to go for outstanding “meat and threes” – hearty plates heaped with your choice of meat and three sides. Menu items change daily and feature a revolving selection of comfort-food favorites like chicken and dumplings, country-fried steak, roast beef and meatloaf accompanied by turnip greens, mashed potatoes, black-eyed peas or fried-green tomatoes. Just make sure you save room for a slice of chocolate chess pie.
Urban Cowboy
Arnold’s Country Kitchen
1603 Woodland St., East Nashville, 347.840.0525, urbancowboybnb.com
The Hermitage Hotel
Multiple locations, arnoldscountrykitchen.com PHOTO by rON MANvillE
This luxurious downtown hotel is Southern hospitality personified. For more than a century, the beaux-arts beauty has welcomed a well-heeled clientele (including celebrities, musical legends, athletes and a number of U.S. Presidents) with a refined sense of style and timeless elegance. The swank Capitol Grille offers an exemplary fine-dining experience; for more casual eats and a curated cockatil selection, grab a seat at the Oak Bar. And don’t forget to treat yourself to a pampering massage or facial at the full-service spa. 231 Sixth Ave. N, Downtown, 888.888.9414, thehermitagehotel.com PHOTO COurTESy NASHvillE CONvENTiON & viSiTOrS COrPOrATiON
The forward-thinking Hutton Hotel cuts a stylish figure with modern rooms and suites furnished with tech-savvy features, plus cushy amenities like custom bedding and granite-filled bathrooms. The eco-conscious hotel takes conservation seriously with sustainable products, earth-friendly practices and even electric car-charging stations. The downtown location makes it easy to walk to plenty of restaurants, shops and cultural attractions. 1808 West End Ave., Midtown/vanderbilt, 615.340.9333, huttonhotel.com feastmagazine.com
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Goo Goo Shop Dessert Bar
Goo Goo Clusters are a Southern tradition: The original features delectable chocolate-covered patties of peanuts, caramel and marshmallow nougat. Goo Goo Shop Dessert Bar offers some creative interpretations including Cumberland Ridge Pecan Pie, Clark Street Original Cheesecake and The Honky Tonk Blonde sundae.
Hattie B’s Nashville’s grand dame of hot chicken, Hattie B’s is required eating for fans of all things spicy. Get it on a sandwich, by the wing, tender or plate, then crank up the heat level as high as you dare, from the “no heat” Southern option all the way to the incendiary “Shut the Cluck Up!!!” Pints of beer and traditional sides like greens, coleslaw, pimento mac ‘n’ cheese and banana pudding help keep the burn in check. Expect to wait in line. Multiple locations, hattieb.com PHOTO by JOSEPH WOODlEy
Biscuit Love
The Birdhouse Hot-chicken purists may cluck, but this new East Nashville spot puts a delicious Korean spin on fried chicken. A twice-fried preparation gives the bird a thin and crispy crust; it arrives with a choice of house sauces like Korean barbecue, gochugaru, sweet soy-garlic and spicy Phoenix. Brisket, salads, ssam lettuce wraps and bibimbap bowls round out the short but thoughtful menu. 726 McFerrin Ave., East Nashville, 615.928.8118, birdhousenashville.com
Hutton Hotel
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local gems
Mas Tacos Por Favor You won’t find any alcohol served at this beloved cash-only former food truck in East Nashville. What you will find is some of the tastiest, made-from-scratch Mexican food this side of the Rio Grande. Authentic street tacos come filled with tilapia, fried avocado, quinoa, chicken or pulled pork. Meanwhile, chilaquiles, elote, pozole verde and fried plantains sweeten the deal even more. 732 McFerrin Ave. Suite b, East Nashville, 615.543.6271, facebook.com/mastacos
This hotspot in the Gulch neighborhood takes the classic Southern biscuit one step further by serving biscuit-based dishes laden with hot chicken, country ham, burgers, and peanut butter and jelly. You can also get them fried with creamy lemon mascarpone and berry compote, drenched in sausage gravy or simply plain alongside a plate of steak and eggs.
116 Third Ave. S, Downtown, 615.490.6685, googoo.com PHOTO COurTESy NASHvillE CONvENTiON & viSiTOrS COrPOrATiON
Walk Eat Nashville Nosh and nibble your way through the flavors of the city’s most vibrant culinary destinations and meet some of the personalities behind them, too. Three-hour tours of East Nashville, Midtown/Vanderbilt and SoBro/Downtown include six tastings and a 1.5-mile walk to keep the calories from creeping on. 615.587.6138, walkeatnashville.com
316 11th Ave. S, Gulch, 615.490.9584, biscuitlove.com PHOTO COurTESy NASHvillE CONvENTiON & viSiTOrS COrPOrATiON
Nelson’s Green Brier Distillery Back in the 1800s, Nelson’s Green Brier Distillery was the country’s largest producer and supplier of Tennessee whiskey. These days, brothers Andy and Charlie Nelson are keeping things in the family by bringing the business back to life. The Nelsons sell white whiskey and bourbon, which you can sample on a tour at the Marathon Village distillery. 1414 Clinton St., Marathon village, 615.913.8800, greenbrierdistillery.com PHOTO COurTESy NASHvillE CONvENTiON & viSiTOrS COrPOrATiON
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JULY TO OCTOber: bLACKberrIeS
IN SEASON
KC WrITTEN By NANCy STILES
Blackberries are a quintessential summer fruit. The dark, juicy berries are high in antioxidants, and the tart sweetness makes them a popular ingredient for pie – but this season, chefs are using them in a range of sweets, from panna cotta to macarons.
compote
KANSAS CITY. There are endless possibilities for blackberries at Café
Sebastienne at the Kemper Museum of Contemporary Art in Kansas City, says executive chef Jennifer Maloney. She buys an abundance of the summer fruit from Fred and Helen Messner of Nature’s Choice Biodynamic Farm in St. Joseph, Missouri, as well as the farm’s frozen blackberries to use in cocktails when they’re not in season. On Maloney’s brunch menu, she tops a waffle with Honey Bee Goat, a honey-flavored goat’s milk cheese; blackberry compote (she’s used it on brioche French toast, too); and crispy prosciutto. For dinner, a blackberry-thyme reduction highlights pan-roasted Buttonwood Farm chicken, and sometimes quail. “If I’m at home, and say I’m making some roasted fish, I just take some fresh blackberries, put them in a pan with a little fresh tarragon and let it cook down with a little bit of cold butter,” Maloney says. “It’s a really easy sauce.” She also suggests a simple blackberry crisp with blackberries, sugar, brandy, butter and flour. “Get the produce locally when it’s in season, and you can’t go wrong with a good dish,” she says. “That’s it. It’s so simple – there’s no fuss.” Café Sebastienne at the Kemper Museum of Contemporary Art, 4420 Warwick Blvd., Southmoreland, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.561.7740, kemperart.org/café
macarons QUINCY, IL. Executive chef and co-owner Cory Shupe of Thyme Square
Cafe in Quincy, Illinois, was introduced to farm-to-table dining while working in St. Louis under Anthony Devoti at Five Bistro. He took that passion for local and seasonal ingredients back to his hometown and opened the breakfast-and-lunch spot with his wife, Erica, in 2010. Shupe is making blackberry macarons this month, with blackberry buttercream and dollops of his blackberry jam, plus classic cobblers and crisps, the occasional blackberry sorbet (“It’s got a really good color.”), blackberry ice cream and a house blackberry syrup for iced tea and lemonade. Shupe gets his blackberries from Boone’s Knob Berry Farm in Barry, Illinois. The Shupes recently acquired a new building, so Thyme Square will be moving and expanding later this year. “The food’s not out of the ordinary, but it’s all homemade,” he says of the menu in general. “We do all of our own charcuterie, make all of our own breads. If you can make it, we do it.” Thyme Square Cafe, 500 Hampshire Ave., Quincy, Illinois, 217.224.3515, thymesquarecafe.net
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panna cotta
ST. LOUIS. Ben McArthur grew up eating fresh berries grown on his family’s
J McArthur’s, An American Kitchen, 3500 Watson Road, Lindenwood Park, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.353.9463, jmcarthurs.com 22
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PHOTOGrAPHy By DIANA TALIuN/ISTOCK
“They’ve got a great flavor, and in the summertime they become less crazy acidic, where you can actually eat them whole without puckering up real bad.” –Cory Shupe, chef and co-owner, Thyme Square Cafe
farm – and that’s just part of the reason he loves using blackberries in the summer at his Lindenwood Park restaurant, J McArthur’s, An American Kitchen. At the restaurant, his blackberries come from Three Spring Farms in Perryville, Missouri. McArthur is using Three Spring’s blackberries in scones and local maple syrup at brunch, and as a gastrique atop a bone-in, smoked pork chop with whipped potatoes, fava beans, country ham and fresh herbs at dinner. For dessert, blackberries appear in a corn panna cotta, which is topped with stewed blackberry preserves and bacon-basil biscotti. “As you can tell, [blackberries] kind of go with everything,” McArthur says. “Not only that, but anything [farmers] pick the day before – you can’t really get better than that.” Look for McArthur’s weekly collaboration with Three Spring at its Tower Grove Farmers’ Market booth starting this month, where he’ll be using its produce and protein to cook fresh dishes to order.
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ted habiger
co-owner and chef, brewery emperial
q&A
Written by Pete Dulin
KANSAS CITY. Chef ted Habiger, co-owner of room 39 and Sasha’s baking Co. in
Kansas City, is set to expand his culinary reach with Brewery Emperial, along with co-owners Keith and Julie thompson and rich Kasyjanski. the restaurant’s name is a nod to the still-standing imperial brewing Co., which brewed just south of the Crossroads Arts District from 1902 to 1919. Habiger plans to complement brewmaster Keith’s beers with a focus on wood-fired dishes.
Brewery Emperial, 1829 Oak St., Crossroads Arts District, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.529.8008, breweryemperial.com
TASTING PRESENTATION & DISCUSSION
PHOtOGrAPHy by zACH bAuMAn
What inspired the brewery’s wood-fired food? Cooking on wood is intensely Kansas City, beyond barbecue. Grilling is my strong suit, and i really love cooking on wood. i studied cookbooks by [chef] Francis Mallmann, who’s known for cooking with wood. i learned about Camino, the Oakland, California, restaurant under chef russell Moore doing similar food. Also, i began eating at el Pollo rey [in Kansas City, Kansas,] every few weeks. Seeing its food and how it produces smoked chicken was also an inspiration. Tell us more about the grill. Mason eddie rice built the grill’s brick base in the kitchen. it’s a huge, 8-foot grill that’s visible from the dining room, which will seat about 60. i can build multiple fires in multiple locations within it or clear everything out for a rotisserie-style slow roast. it’s definitely a risk to cook this way versus a flat-top grill – wood isn’t easy to control. it’s temperamental. We’re using grates from the [former] Golden Ox restaurant, and we’ll use a portable roll-top stand. it resembles a large bottomless breadbox. you put the stand and grate on the grill over coals. When you close the roll-top lid, you get convection [heat] going that cooks both the bottom and top of the meat. What will the menu look like? We’ll have burgers, charcuterie, pub food and appetizers to share. Coals will be used to slow-roast butternut squash, and i plan to grill jalapeños and tomatoes for salsas and vegetables such as zucchini and eggplant for [other] dishes. the grill is also large enough to do rotisserie slow-roasting of a whole pig, legs of lamb, whole ducks or a whole chicken that serves two to four people – an ode to el Pollo rey. We’ll do special nights for cooking those. How will the food and beer complement each other? it’s a two-way street. Keith and i have had many discussions. Obviously, we’ll beer-braise meat like short ribs and use beer in soups and stews. We talked about roasting and smoking malt before it goes into a Scotch ale; we’ll use spent grain from brewing in the bread here and at Sasha’s. Goses and sour beers are a natural pairing with charcuterie and pasta. How do you juggle your roles at Room 39, Sasha’s and Brewery Emperial? i have good people in place to help me manage, but i’m also a hands-on repair guy. i’ll go fix things, and it’s time-consuming. little things add up. At this point, it feels good. i’ve transferred some of my administrative roles of bookkeeping and payroll to a professional firm. i love to cook and manage people, so i have more time to do that now. i still watch the numbers – a bad week of ordering supplies can throw off the budget, but we work it out. you do this work for love, not for profit.
@KALDIS_COFFEE #FOLLOWTHEGOAT Inspired Local Food Culture
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Gift Cards Available!
4059 Broadway | Kansas City, Missouri 64111 | 816-931-4401 thecornerkc.com
Conveniently located in Kirkwood Dinner Hours: Tues.-Sun. 5 p.m. BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2012 CITY’S BEST AWARD WINNER 2013 13 KC’S BEST PATIOS 2014 KC’S BEST RESTAURANTS 2014 OPEN TABLE DINERS CHOICE AWARD 20 2015
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feastmagazine.com
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133 West Clinton Place St. Louis, MO 63122 314-965-9005 www.citizenkanes.com
Regional RestauRant guide As proud supporters of Feast Magazine, we encourage you to visit any of these fine establishments. From fine dining to fast casual to local wineries, there are an array of experiences to choose from, so support and eat local!
2nd Shift Brewing 1401 Olive Road New Haven, MO 573.237.3421 2ndshiftbrewing.com
Chaz on the Plaza at the Raphael Hotel 325 Ward Parkway Kansas City, MO 816.802.2152 raphaelkc.com
Kaldi’s Coffee multiple locations kaldiscoffee.com
Shrine Restaurant 442 S. Demazenod Drive Belleville, IL 618.394.6237 snows.org
4 Hands Brewing Co. 1220 S. Eighth St. St. Louis, MO 314.436.1559 4handsbrewery.com
Citizen Kane’s Steak House 133 W. Clinton Place Kirkwood, MO 314.965.9005 citizenkanes.com
King & I 3157 S. Grand Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.771.1777 kingandistl.com
Stone Hill Winery 1110 Stone Hill Highway Hermann, MO 573.486.2221 stonehillwinery.com
400 Olive 400 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.436.0002 400olive.com
Cleveland-Heath 106 N. Main St. Edwardsville, IL 618.307.4830 clevelandheath.com
LaChance Vineyards 12237 Peter Moore Lane De Soto, MO 636.586.2777 lachancevineyards.com
Sugar Creek Winery 125 Boone County Lane Defiance, MO 636.987.2400 sugarcreekwines.com
Aerie’s Winery 600 Timber Ridge Drive Grafton, IL 618.786.7477 aerieswinery.com
Corner Restaurant 4059 Broadway Blvd. Kansas City, MO 816.931.4401 thecornerkc.com
La Cosecha Coffee Roasters 7360 Manchester Road Maplewood, MO 314.440.0337 lacosechacoffee.com
The Jacobson 2050 Central St. Kansas City, MO 816.423.2888 thejacobsonkc.com
Aya Sofia 6671 Chippewa St. St. Louis, MO 314.645.9919 ayasofiacuisine.com
Diablito’s 3761 Laclede Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.644.4430 diablitoscantina.com
Mai Lee 8396 Musick Memorial Drive Brentwood, MO 314.645.2835 maileestl.com
The Muddled Pig Gastropub 2733 Sutton Blvd. Maplewood, MO 314.781.4607 themuddledpig.com
Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas 325 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.3434 bellavinowinebarstl.com
Drunken Fish multiple locations drunkenfish.com
Olympia Kebob House and Taverna 1543 McCausland Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.781.1299 olympiakebobandtaverna.com
Trattoria Giuseppe 5442 Old State Route 21 Imperial, MO 636.942.2405 trattoria-giuseppe.com
Best Regards Bakery & Café 6759 W. 119th St. Overland Park, KS 913.912.7238 makethemsmile.com
Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard 10035 Edg-Clif Drive Potosi, MO 573.438.4741 edg-clif.com
Pappy’s Smokehouse 3106 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.535.4340 pappyssmokehouse.com
Truffles and Butchery 9202 Clayton Road St. Louis, MO 314.567.9100 todayattruffles.com
Bissell Mansion Restaurant & Dinner Theatre 4426 Randall Place St. Louis, MO 314.533.9830 bissellmansiontheatre.com
Fratelli’s Ristorante 2061 Zumbehl Road St. Charles, MO 636.949.9005 fratellisristorante.com
Ravanelli’s Restaurant 3 American Village 26 Collinsport Drive Granite City, IL | Collinsville, IL 618.877.8000 | 618.343.9000 ravanellis.com
Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. 3229 Washington Ave. | 4465 Manchester Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.222.0143 urbanchestnut.com
Café Ventana 3919 W. Pine Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.531.7500 cafeventana.com
Gallagher’s Restaurant 114 W. Mill St. Waterloo, IL 618.939.9933 gallagherswaterloo.com
Retreat Gastropub 6 N. Sarah St. St. Louis, MO 314.261.4497 retreatgastropub.com
Vox Vineyards 19310 NW Farley Hampton Road #3 Kansas City, MO 816.354.4903 voxvineyards.com
Castelli’s Restaurant at 255 3400 Fosterburg Road Alton, IL 618.462.4620 castellis255.com
Grimm’s Tree Brewing 1029 Thiebes Road Labadie, MO 314.566.9346 grimmstreebrewing.com
Sanctuaria 4198 Manchester Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.535.9700 sanctuariastl.com
Wild Sun Winery 4830 Pioneer Road Hillsboro, MO 636.797.8686 wildsunwinery.com
Cellar House Wine + Food 6039 Telegraph Road Oakville, MO 314.846.5100 bottlecellars.com
Hendricks BBQ 1200 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.8600 hendricksbbq.com
Seoul Taco 6665 Delmar Blvd. 1020 E. Broadway St. Louis, MO | Columbia, MO 314.863.1148 | 573.441.8226 seoultaco.com
Wood Cask 10332 Manchester Road Kirkwood, MO 314.858.1085 thewoodcask.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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VODKA
Pride Distilled. @TILLVODKA | TILLVODKA.COM | #PRIDEDISTILLED
Till Vodka is proudly crafted from famous Kansas wheat. The result is a uniquely smooth, premium vodka
brought to life by some of the hardest working people around – but that part comes naturally to us. Because here
in the heartland, you don’t just get handed people’s respect or their loyalty. You earn it every day.
Be proud of your legacy. Enjoy responsibly. American Wheat Vodka • 40% ALC by VOL • Till Distilling Company, Atchison, Kansas
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where we’re drinking
kick back with kombucha on p. 30 PHOTOGRAPHy by jOnATHAn GAymAn
trending now: Caffé toniC
on trend
Written by bethany Christo PhotograPhy by jonathan gayman
The combination of coffee and tonic water – referred to as caffé tonic, espresso tonic, black tonic, spronic and more – is a crisp, bubbly and summer-perfect pick-me-up. Lemon Caffé ToniC reCiPe CoUrtesy matt Farmer, Co-oWner, Vintage Paris
Serves | 1 |
2 1
ice shots hot freshly brewed espresso 200-mL bottle Fever-tree Bitter lemon tonic water
| Preparation | Fill a 16-ounce Pilsner glass to the brim with ice. add brewed espresso and immediately top with tonic water. serve.
mo
bitter lemon
HoLLiSter, Mo. Last fall, Vintage Paris co-owner matt Farmer
offered regulars at his coffee shop in hollister, missouri, the chance to test out something new – a caffé tonic. Using their feedback, he debuted the drink in may. the Lemon Caffé tonic is a double shot of fruity, house-roasted Laotian espresso that’s poured over ice in a Pilsner glass and quickly topped with Fever-tree bitter Lemon tonic water. “the lemon is a reference to the traditional espresso drink espresso Romano, which is a double shot of espresso with a squirt of lemon juice,” Farmer says. “the bitter Lemon tonic is more approachable version, and you have an edgy flavor from the quinine. the lemon also really complements our espresso that has notes of red grapefruit and fresh citrus acidity mellowed out by earthiness.” the key to the drink is hustling to combine the freshly brewed espresso with the tonic: “it creates a bunch of carbon dioxide, which creates this really thick, foamy tonic crema for those fresh and refreshing first sips,” he says. Vintage Paris, 260 Birdcage Walk, Hollister, Missouri, 417.593.7952, vintagepariscoffeeshop.com
stl
cold brew
St. LouiS. Last june, The Mud House’s cold-brew tonic garnered
a mention in Bon Appetit: “think: coffee with notes of wood and barrel-aged accents. so, a good bourbon meets citrus-y bubbles.” ryan renwick, general manager of the Cherokee street café and coffee shop, agrees. it’s made with Kyoto-style cold brew using Worko natural ethiopian coffee beans from local roaster goshen Coffee Co.; this is then infused with Fever-tree mediterranean tonic water, plus cocktail cubes and an orange peel garnish. “We went with cold brew because espresso can be inconsistent, tastewise,” he says. “the citrus on the rim and the light citrus notes in the coffee pair well, and then the bubbles from the tonic pull it all together.” make sure to also try the seasonal Dank and stormy mocktail, made with the same cold brew plus ginger beer and a lime wedge. The Mud House, 2101 Cherokee St., Benton Park, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.776.6599, themudhousestl.com
coriander-lime LawrenCe, KS. the espresso tonic at 1900 Barker, Bakery & Café
is one of the first drinks brothers reagan and taylor Petrehn pitch to new customers at their café in Lawrence, Kansas. “honestly, it’s been a huge hit with people who don’t even like coffee,” says reagan, who heads up the coffee program. he says those who enjoy brightness in beverages or who enjoy a crisp cider will be drawn to the drink. two shots of george howell Coffee Co.’s ethiopian espresso are combined with boylan heritage tonic, topped with housemade lime bitters, a mist of housemade coriander essence and garnished with a lime peel over ice. introduced “secretly” last fall and officially on the menu this spring, reagan plans to make the espresso tonic a permanent fixture on the menu with flavors changing seasonally; look for a summer version made with local herbs and fruits. 1900 Barker, Bakery & Café, 1900 Barker Ave., Barker, Lawrence, Kansas, 785.424.7609, 1900barker.com %PG
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stl q&A
kirk morrison associate brand manager, vess soda WrITTEN By BETHANy CHrISTO
MARYLAND HEIGHTS, MO. For exactly a century, Vess Soda has made, canned and sold soft drinks in the St. Louis area. For many, cracking open a can of its iconic Whistle Orange – or any of the nearly 20 other flavors like fruit punch, strawberry and cream soda – is an experience that evokes happy childhood memories as well as St. Louis pride. To mark its 100th anniversary, the historic brand got a fresh digital and creative reboot in March, highlighting the longstanding impact Vess has had on the city. Vess is now owned by Tampa, Florida-based Cott Corporation, but production is based in Maryland Heights, Missouri, with 16-ounce cans produced at a facility in Sikeston, Missouri. Available in area grocery and retail stores (and select Kansas City spots), Vess Soda has seen a surge of interest from restaurants, including St. Louis’ Byrd & Barrel and upcoming fast-casual Asian-inspired restaurant Good Fortune.
Vess Soda, 813.313.1800, facebook.com/officialvesssoda
PHOTOGrAPHy COUrTESy VESS SODA
How do you balance being an old-school, storied brand with modern trends? We’ve been engrained in the fabric of the Midwest for so long that it’s a simple task to extract that authenticity and convey it in a way that’s new and exciting for those people who weren’t fortunate enough to have experienced the brand as a kid. It’s really crazy how much love St. Louis has for the Vess brand, and we knew we had to let the city know that the feeling is mutual – but in a way that would invite new fans as well as re-engage our core fans. Have you seen a general resurgence in interest in old-school soda? Everyone knows that nowadays, old things have a way of becoming cool again. We’ve seen brands that have that glass-bottle look and old-time feel doing well, and even though we aren’t in glass yet, we have real heritage and well-established roots on our side. What’s the appeal of Vess Soda for consumers? People in St. Louis know that this brand has been made by the hands of its own citizens for 100 years now, and that makes us very authentic and gives us an elevated level of trust. Do you think nostalgia plays a role in the brand’s popularity? Trust and loyalty have to be built, and Vess has put in that work for the right number of years and in the right area. The Midwest is a place where folks remember the actions of others, and that applies to brands, as well. I can’t tell you how many people I’ve talked to who’ve said, “Oh, my mother only bought Vess when we were growing up because she wanted to support St. Louis,” or, “I grew up on this stuff; I can’t believe it’s still being produced.” Nostalgia is key, but it rides the coattails of great service and quality. How have you built up your presence in St. Louis? This year marks the start of a new beginning for us, and we’re really excited about it. We’ve hired a dynamite creative agency, and it’s really cool because our creative lead is from St. Louis, so he knows exactly what Vess is all about. We never left St. Louis, but we’ve been operating quietly. Now that we’re promoting more actively, we expect the people of St. Louis to welcome us back with open arms. We are still here. It’s been really great what [chef-owner] Bob Brazell of Byrd & Barrel has done for the brand by serving only 12-ounce Vess cans at the restaurant. We hope that more restaurants will adopt his “keep it St. Louis” mentality and decide to support a local brand.
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where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, restaurants, breweries, wineries and coffee shops.
mo
stl
les bourgeois vineyards
confluence
tasting room & gift shop
kombucha
Written by AudrA Jenkins photogrAphy by AAron ottis
ROCHEPORT, MO. in 31 years, Les Bourgeois Vineyards Tasting Room & Gift Shop has never stopped trying new things. the family-owned winery recently expanded its tasting room, which is situated just off of interstate 70 in rocheport, Missouri. the expansion enhances Les bourgeois’ other facilities, including its popular blufftop bistro, outdoor A-frame and adjacent production center.
Les bourgeois recently partnered with broadway brewery and rocheport distilling Co., which brew and distill, respectively, in the space. Visitors to the tasting room will be able to purchase 30
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bottles and cases of their favorite wines, but with the addition of the bar, there’s no need to rush. enjoy a drink inside at the sleek wooden bar or outside on the patio underneath the large timber-frame pavilion. Classic cocktails like Mojitos, Mai tais and daiquiris are expertly crafted with scratch-made ingredients and served with rocheport distilling Co. rum. there’s a rotating selection of broadway brewery offerings on tap. A variety of popular Les bourgeois wines are also on tap at the tasting room, plus a carbonated wine spritzer. Les Bourgeois Vineyards Tasting Room & Gift Shop, 12847 W. Highway BB, Rocheport, Missouri, 573.698.2716, missouriwine.com
Written by dAnieL puMA photogrAphy by JonAthAn gAyMAn
sT. lOuis. William pauley opened a
brewery, tasting room and café in st. Louis’ Forest park southeast neighborhood in June, but he doesn’t plan to compete with nearby urban Chestnut brewing Co. pauley is brewing kombucha, not beer, at Confluence Kombucha. A fermented and fizzy tea, kombucha is popular for its purported health benefits. because kombucha is made from tea, the flavor possibilities are just as endless: Confluence’s flagship varieties, pineapple-turmeric and hibiscus-jasmine flower-juniper berry, and more specialty offerings such as saffron and angelica root fill its six or so taps. For first-timers, pauley suggests the rose, honeysuckle
and vanilla kombucha, which he likens to a cream soda, only more sour. the house-brewed kombucha won’t be ready until next month, along with its kombucha-based cocktail offerings, so until then, pauley offers tea cocktails, chaga mushroom tea, shrub sodas, smoked waters and other fermented beverages like aluá, a lightly fermented brazilian drink made from pineapple or other citrus. Additionally, the café serves small plates and snacks; pauley is particularly excited about the miso-cured cucumbers with sweet-pickled mushrooms, coconut yogurt and toasted sesame oil. Another one of his favorites is lime-marinated jackfruit, crispy shallots, local organic tomatoes, red onion, cilantro and spiced shallot oil, with the option to add lop chong, seasoned Chinese sausage. Confluence Kombucha, 4507 Manchester Ave., Forest Park Southeast, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.625.2655, facebook.com/confluencekombucha
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leinenkugel’s
N eo o
tim sady
co-founder, kc nanobrew festival
kansas city
q&A
Written by jenny vergara photography by landon vonderschmidt
KANSAS CITY. in march, Wisconsin-based jacob leinenkugel brewing co.
opened a restaurant and bar in the former tengo sed cantina space in the Kansas city power & light district. Leinenkugel’s Kansas City’s spacious outdoor patio connects the inside of the restaurant and bar to the Kansas city live block through a large garage door. general manager eric Flanagan, a certified cicerone, heads up leinenkugel’s beer program, which features 16 different beers on tap, seven of which are leinenkugel brews, including the popular summer shandy, as well as 30 bottled beer options and a beer-focused drink menu including beer cocktails, beer blends, non-beer featured cocktails and specialty wines. a favorite beer cocktail is the grapefruit league, with smirnoff ruby red grapefruit vodka, ginger beer, fresh lime juice and leinenkugel’s grapefruit shandy. beer blends combine two or more beers to create a unique signature drink – try the pink lemonade with equal parts summer shandy and berry Weiss. the food menu comes from executive chef matt livers, who collaborated with the leinenkugel family on dishes inspired by the their Wisconsin heritage. try the reuben bratwurst – three mini grilled bratwursts on tiny, soft hoagie buns with thousand island dressing, melted swiss cheese and caraway sauerkraut – paired with leinenkugel’s creamy dark beer. Leinenkugel’s Kansas City, 1323 Walnut St., Kansas City Power & Light District, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.541.2800, leinenkugelskc.com
kc
Written by pete dulin
KANSAS CITY. Kc nanobrews is an american homebrewers association social club that aims to promote and educate homebrewers about the production of craft beer. it’s hosting the annual KC Nanobrew Festival on sat., july 30 from 2 to 6pm at berkley riverfront park. the festival is a dedicated showcase for local homebrewers to share their inventive creations with the public. beers on tap include beagle brewing co.’s Wild berry cream dream, a wild strawberry-cream ale; burrows brewing co.’s pre pickle pale ale made with 4 pounds of cucumber; and sunflower prairie brewing co.’s america’s drive-in, a cherry-limeade berliner Weisse inspired by sonic’s summertime sip. the outdoor event, which was founded in 2010 and was expanded and renamed in 2012 by tim sady, Frank rydzewski, robert rys, chad moats and chad cummings, includes food vendors, local breweries and other beer-related vendors for the $35 ticket price.
photography by zach bauman
How did the KC Nanobrew Festival get started? in 2010 and 2011, the nanobrew Festival was put on by chad cummings and our friend micah trotti, who held it in his backyard. it was a much smaller gathering of 100 friends and family, and catered by jet bar-b-Q out of Wichita, Kansas. When micah left Kansas city to pursue a job in tennessee, the current group joined together in order to keep it going. Why move the festival to Berkley Riverfront Park this year? For the previous four years, the festival has been held in brewery parking lots – the big rip brewing co., rock & run brewery, stockyards brewing co. due to our growth and the fact that much of stockyards’ lot is being torn up to make way for a condominium development, we had to expand our search this year. We finally landed on berkley riverfront park, primarily due to the enormous amount of space. We hope that the grass, trees, picnic tables and other amenities of the park will be a welcome change to attendees, versus a hot parking lot at the end of july. How many homebrewers will pour beers at the festival? last year, we had more than 50 homebrewers and 150 beers on tap. this year, we’ve had around 100 homebrewers sign up with 200 kegs, plus two local breweries so far, red crow brewing co. and crane brewing, which both got their starts in homebrewing. What do people need to know about the event? admission includes a full-size, 16-ounce souvenir glass, a $5 food voucher and entertainment. usually, tickets are sold out in the last week. it has sold out every year, but often there will be a huge wave in the last one or two weeks. our festival is outdoors and will go on rain or shine, and we’ll have large tents to shelter us from the elements. KC Nanobrew Festival, Berkley Riverfront Park, Grand Boulevard, River Market, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.533.5242, kcnanobrews.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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the mix
Royale Hawaiian CooleR in the bar world, i tend to focus on the history of classic drinks. although that’s a continually fun endeavor, i like taking breaks and just doing drinks that remind me of being a kid – like hawaiian punch. you know, the red beverage with the wacky cartoon character (“punchy”) who always knocked out his sidekick? yeah, that hawaiian punch.
Story and recipeS by Matt Seiter photography by Jonathan gayMan
i enjoy that flavor because it just tastes good, with a heavy dose of nostalgia. this recipe includes a homemade fruit punch mix, using fresh strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, pineapple, tangerines and, of course, a heaping cup of sugar. Mix one up solo or use the pitcher portion that’s perfect for a pool party.
Matt Seiter is co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild (USBG)’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program, author of the dive bar of cocktail bars, bartender at BC’s Kitchen, and a bar and restaurant consultant.
Royale Hawaiian Cooler Serves | 1 | Fruit Punch Mix (yields 28 to 32 ounces)
1 1 1 1 3 1 16
pint fresh strawberries, hulled and halved pint fresh raspberries pint fresh blackberries cup ½-inch diced pineapple tangerines, peeled and roughly chopped heaping cup granulated sugar oz water
royale hawaiian cooler
2 3 3
oz white rum oz fruit punch mix (recipe below) crushed ice oz sparkling wine
| Preparation – Fruit Punch Mix | in a large bowl, combine all ingredients except water and mix until fruit is thoroughly coated with sugar. cover and refrigerate, 3 to 5 hours or overnight. remove. in a blender, add refrigerated mixture and water; blend until smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer and use immediately. Mix can be stored for up to 3 days, but it is best when used fresh. | Preparation – Royale Hawaiian Cooler | in a collins glass, combine rum and fruit punch mix. add crushed ice until the glass is ¾ full and stir briefly. add sparkling wine, stir again and top off with more ice. garnish with various fruit pieces or an orchid.
Pitcher Serving Serves | 4 to 6 | 10 15 3 5 5 5 2 15
oz white rum oz fruit punch mix (recipe above) strawberries, hulled and halved raspberries blackberries ½-inch chunks pineapple cups ice oz sparkling wine
| Preparation | in a 60-ounce pitcher, combine rum, fruit punch mix and fruit pieces. add ice and stir until well chilled. add sparkling wine and stir again; top with more ice if needed. portion into 10-ounce old Fashioned glasses filled with ice and serve.
on the shelf : july picks
WINE
sugar Creek Winery’s 2015 ViDal BlanC written by Hilary HeDgeS
provenance: Defiance, Missouri pairings: Crab cakes • Scallops • Spinach and Feta salad
Sugar Creek Winery’s Vidal blanc is a favorite among customers who frequent its tasting room. Made from estate-grown grapes picked from 17-year-old vines, this wine is bursting with flavor. winemaker Christopher lorch ferments his Vidal blanc at a low temperature and ages it in stainless steel to capture its fruit-forward character. it’s crisp and dry with notes of lemon peel on the nose and a nice natural acidity that is bright on the palate. Flavors of green apple greet you, while notes of pear midpalate provide a nice balance to the acidity on the front. the Vidal blanc is available at Sugar Creek’s tasting room in Defiance, Missouri, and at select Missouri retailers.
W I N E R Y
Sugar Creek Winery, 636.987.2400, sugarcreekwines.com Hilary Hedges is a former newsie whose passion for wine led her out of the newsroom and into the cellar. She is currently the director of sales and marketing and assistant winemaker at Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City’s West Bottoms.
BEER
lOgBOat BreWing CO.’s snapper written by branDon niCkelSon
style: american iPa (7.2% abV) pairings: Hamburger and fries
there’s an influx of new regional breweries, from kansas City to alton, illinois, and Columbia, Missouri-based Logboat Brewing Co. is one the new favorites. its flavors range from light and crisp hops to massive coffee stouts. Snapper is the former: a light-bodied and light-colored iPa with a great hop punch. it’s got a beautifully citrusy character that makes it an ideal partner for hot weather. Logboat Brewing Co., 573.397.6786, logboatbrewing.com Brothers Brandon and Ryan Nickelson are available to help with beer picks and pairing recommendations at their store, Craft Beer Cellar, the only all-craft beer shop in the St. Louis area. Craft Beer Cellar is located at 8113 Maryland Ave. in Clayton, Missouri. To learn more, call 314.222.2444 or visit craftbeercellar.com/clayton.
Come for the Wine. Experience the Ambiance. Return for the Friendships. Wild Sun Winery¼ where the outside world ends and serenity begins. 4830 Pioneer Road, Hillsboro, MO 63050 636-797-8686 | www.wildsunwinery.com
WE ARE MORE THAN
bRick & sTONE
SPIRIT
Ozark Distillery’s COrn Whiskey MOOnshine written by Matt Sorrell
provenance: osage beach, Missouri (50% abV) try it: add fresh lemon juice and sugar and top it with club
soda for a refreshing summer fizz.
the first and only (legal) distillery in Camden County, Missouri, Ozark Distillery has several spirits in its portfolio, including an array of flavored moonshines, a vodka and a bourbon. the distillery’s flagship is its Corn whiskey Moonshine, crafted with hand-ground Missouri corn and distilled in small batches in a column still for a light, smooth texture. although the techniques used to make this ‘shine are traditional, the end result is mild and slightly sweet – hardly the white lightning of years gone by. the spirit has received national acclaim, as well, taking home a silver medal at the 2015 american Distilling institute’s annual spirit competition. Ozark Distillery, 573.348.2449, ozarkdistillery.com When he’s not writing, Matt Sorrell can be found slinging drinks at Planter’s House in St. Louis’ Lafayette Square or bartending at events around town with his wife, Beth, for their company, Cocktails Are Go.
new firebowls now available
Columbia | Jefferson City | St. Louis | Kansas City midwestblock.com | firebowls.midwestblock.com
Inspired Local Food Culture
www.midwestblock.com
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Let us help you elevate
4
th
of July
one of a kind food and wine boutique full butcher service fresh seafood Himalayan pink sea salt case butcher classes gift baskets fresh soups
AT YOUR ONE-STOP-BUTCHER-SHOP
Celebration!
fresh soups & sandwiches, artisan salumi & cheese homemade breads & pastries ice creams & sorbets unique accoutrements, daily prepared meals and much more...
1 MILE WEST OF GALLERIA
9202 clayton rd. saint louis, mo 63124
TUE - SAT 10am-7Pm / SUN 11am-4Pm • 314.567.7258 @butcheryStL www.todayattruffles.com 34
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culinary library
pop it like it’s hot on p. 38
kounter kulture
shop here
stl
written by HeatHer riske
sT. LoUIs. Fans of kitchen kulture’s locally sourced,
made-from-scratch fare can now get their fix five days a week at Kounter Kulture. in June, co-owners Christine Meyer and Michael Miller, who also operate a stall with prepared foods and freshly cooked dishes at the tower Grove Farmers’ Market and host pop-up lunches and dinners, opened a brick-and-mortar location for their cooked-to-order carryout. Located in the original home of Pint size bakery (which relocated to a larger space down the road in april), kounter kulture stays true to the duo’s commitment to sourcing fresh, seasonal ingredients from local farms. serving carryout only, the new shop focuses on asian cuisine – current items include a cold ramen salad with MOFU tofu; spring rolls with seasonal greens; and yam-cabbage okonomiyaki, a pizzalike savory Japanese pancake topped with ingredients such as kimchi, house-cured Chinese bacon, mushrooms or shrimp. “there’s a certain element of preservation and fermentation already in place in asian cuisine, and that lends itself to sourcing locally year-round,” Meyer says. “with asian cuisine, the protein tends to be an aspect of the dish rather than the center of attention, which allows for more complexity with the overall flavors instead of putting the focus on the meat. we can also source quality protein and still sell it at a reasonable price point.”
PHOtOGraPHy by JaCkLyn Meyer
Diners might recognize a few items from kitchen kulture’s pop-up meals at sump and Local Harvest Cafe, including noodle dishes and steamed buns. the shop will also serve a rotating selection of local audhumbla premium ice cream made from scratch by husband-and-wife anne Lehman and Derrick Crass. available in 8-ounce containers, the ice cream comes in seasonally rotating flavors – including ghost pepper, lemon verbena, strawberry, Mojito-mint and kaffir lime leaf – with local herbs from Lehman’s Dirty Girl Farms. Kounter Kulture, 3825 Watson Road, Lindenwood Park, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.781.4344, kitchenkulture.com
grillbot
cuisinart 3-in-1 burger press
written by MaCy saLaMa
written by MaCy saLaMa
Grilling is a classic summer tradition, but scrubbing the grill post-meal doesn’t have to be. Grillbot is a fast and effective cleaning tool – all you have to do is set it on the grill, turn it on and let its built-in sensors take over. the Grillbot works on both gas and charcoal grills, including those made with stainless steel, porcelain, cast iron and expanded steel.
Cuisinart’s stuffed-burger press infuses up to ¾-pound burger patties with extra flavor in just a few easy steps. simply place patties into the press, stuff with ingredients such as peppers, cheese, bacon or even mac ‘n’ cheese, and burgers are ready for the grill. you can also use the press to make sliders.
For more information or to purchase the Grillbot, visit grillbots.com. PHOtO COUrtesy GriLLbOt
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For more information or to purchase the burger press, visit cuisinartwebstore.com. PHOtO COUrtesy CUisinart
This is kate ! a cross-body bag
$125
SOLE SURVIVOR
Available in
Makers of Fine Leather Goods
Mahogany Cognac White Red Tan Brown Soft Blue Blackberry
7312 Manchester Rd. Maplewood, MO Monday-Friday 10-6 Saturday 10-5 314-932-1475 july2016 YOUR SOURCE FOR THE FINEST
Vietnamese & Chinese Restaurant
• Maine Lobsters • Jumbo Lump Crabmeat • Dry-Packed Scallops • Jumbo Shrimp • Smoked Salmon • Wide Selection of Oysters & Fish
A "FEAST" Favorite!
presented by
ST L B E E R .O R G
Thank You all Local Area Chefs for Making Us #1 Located in the Meridian Shopping Center at Hanley & Eager Roads behind the Best Buy.
314.993.4844
FREE PARKING IN THE METRO LINK GARAGE Tu-Th: 11am-9pm • Fr-Su 11am-10pm 8396 Musick Memorial Dr. • 314.645.2835 www.MaiLeeSTL.com
ST.Louis craft beer week
8660 OLIVE IN U CITY
FRESHEST SEAFOOD IN ST. LOUIS SINCE 1978!
celebrate st. Louis
Craft Beer Week
bobsseafoodstl.com
Friday, July 29th thru Saturday, August 6th June 7 - August 13
ALWAYS LEGENDARY
GIVE YOUR FAMILY SOME LEGENDARY “ABE-SPIRATION” WITH A TRIP TO SPRINGFIELD.
Like no other destination, Springfield offers the best of Lincoln, the nostalgia of Route 66 and more for everyone to enjoy. Visit this summer when History Comes Alive! Enjoy live period music and interactions with nineteenth century characters. You might even get to meet Mr. Lincoln himself!
START PLANNING YOUR TRIP TODAY!
St. Louis has an unparalleled history of beer in the United States. St. Louis Craft Beer Week is a celebration of that history. This year St. Louis Craft Beer Week is a group of breweries, distributors, restaurants, bars, retail outlets, and beer fans all working together to promote and enjoy craft beer. The official guide to Craft Beer Week is inserted into this month’s issue of Feast. The 32-page booklet highlights each night of the event, with the evening’s activities, food/beer pairings and everything the St. Louis beer scene has to offer. Visit www.stlbeerweek.com for more information.
VISITSPRINGFIELDILLINOIS.COM 800-545-7300 Springfield Convention & Visitors Bureau
Inspired Local Food Culture
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on
ne
n eo o
stl
julia and diana crump
culinary library
founders, cloud nine stl
q&a
written by bethany chriSto
ST. louiS. the thought that runs through your head as you take a bite of fluffy, sugary-sweet cotton
candy is probably the same one that sparked the founding of Cloud Nine STL: isn’t this fun? last year, Julia crump was chaperoning (a term she uses loosely) her younger sister, Diana, during Diana’s senior spring-break trip. the tactile experience of eating the gossamer goodie in the sunshine, combined with their memories of family vacations filled with cotton candy enjoyed on the boardwalks of Santa cruz, california, led to the founding of their cotton candy event service in December. with two carts to bring to weddings, showers, outdoor festivals and birthday parties, plus an endless array of creative flavors and toppings such as lavender-vanilla or Key lime pie sprinkled with graham crackers, the in-demand duo is taking St. louis for a spin. Why start Cloud Nine in St. Louis? we’re both from St. louis and lived here our whole lives. i graduated from Saint louis University a couple years ago, and Diana just finished her freshman year in business school [there]. Gourmet cotton candy is really trending on the coasts; there’s [also] a guy in australia doing it, someone in canada. but there’s nothing else like it in St. louis, besides actually renting your own cotton candy machine – which is kind of a mess, we’ve learned. then we found out that cotton candy allegedly debuted at the 1904 world’s Fair, which really made the connection to St. louis that much stronger. –Julia Crump What makes the cotton candy gourmet? Julia and i hand-mix all of our own flavors, and it’s all organic sugar. we have all different kinds of extracts – a lot of them natural – that we use to mix the flavors. –Diana Crump the organic sugar makes this really pretty, fine texture, and while it’s sweet, the taste is more similar to cane sugar. it really separates it from the normal cotton candy, too, because it tastes like you’re eating something fancy. –J.C. Tell us about the flavors. we have the original flavors – vanilla, strawberry, orange – but then we’ll see what we can do to mix it up. Salted caramel is one of our most popular ones. the caramel extract is pretty simple to blend, but then we let it sit for a while and add sea salt on top to add texture and crunch. –J.C. People really like Dreamsicle and mint-chocolate chip with chocolate shavings. –D.C. Any unexpected favorites? Mango-chile, for sure – it’s mango cotton candy with chile powder sprinkled on top. For summer, we added lemon and [have] been testing out a Margarita flavor. For toppings, we have sprinkles, disco dust, edible glitter, sanding sugar – we have it all. My favorite are the little kissy-lips sprinkles for our cinnamon flavor. –J.C. What are people’s reactions? it’s been really popular – everyone has some type of memory attached to cotton candy. with young adults, the big things are activities and foods that play on childhood – adult coloring books, artisan Pop-tarts, #adulting – so they love it, too. we think cotton candy can make any event more fun. it’s a fun prop – people love taking selfies with it. we booked our first job off of our instagram account. i think cotton candy is just a starting point for us, and in the future, we’re going to try to branch out to other industries and creative outlets. –J.C.
Sweeter Off the Vine written by nancy StileS
cooking with fresh fruit is especially delicious come spring and summer: flavorful strawberries and cherries give way to blueberries, melon, blackberries, figs and more. in Sweeter Off the Vine, award-winning food blogger yossy arefi of apt. 2b baking co. walks us through the best fruits for all four seasons. take advantage of July produce with her cantaloupe and mint yogurt pops, wine-soaked peaches with lemon verbena or plum pie with hazelnut crumb. arefi’s photography of citrus recipes will have you wishing for winter, too, so you can make blood orange old-fashioned donuts and tangerine cream pie. She also includes year-round essentials like all-butter pie crust and from-scratch vanilla extract, plus seasonal larder selections including a spiced rhubarb compote and preserved lemons.
Cloud Nine STL, 314.540.4406, facebook.com/cloudninestl
by yossy arefi penguinrandomhouse.com
PhotoGraPhy by JorDyn Gehret
%PG
feastmagazine.com
jun e 2 0 1 6
Welcoming Visitors for Over 200 Years! The Businesses of Historic St. Charles, Missouri Come See What’s Happening This Summer
Best summer
• Specialty Foods •
Soups, Cheesecake and Cheeseball Mixes. Sauces, Mustards, Jams & Jellies, Butters, Dip Mixes, Cocoa Mixes, Coffees, Teas, Spices & Seasonings
• Accessories •
Candles, Trees, Baskets, Ornaments, Spreaders, Seasonal Decorative Accessories, Kitchen Gadgets
MAIN STREET BOOKS
Your St. Charles Independent Bookseller
FIND WALDO LOCAL
Join us in July for a month-long search!
708 South Main Street
www.mainstreetmarketplace.com
Facebook: Main Street Marketplace in Historic Saint Charles Missouri
636-940-8626
25 LOCAL BUSINESSES! 25 PLACES TO FIND WALDO! THE SEARCH BEGINS JULY 1ST!
tapas at
bella Vino
307 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 63301 636.949.0105 www.mainstreetbooks.net info@mainstreetbooks.net
Now available:
Polish Pottery at Siostra Polish Pottery and Gifts From Boleslawiec Poland • Hand painted and colorful • Detailed patterns • Dishwasher, Microwave, Freezer & Oven safe to 400 F 330 South Main Street St. Charles, MO 63301 Like us on Facebook!
636 925 1480
www.siostrapolishpottery.com
325 S Main St, Saint CharleS, MO 63301 www.bellavinOwinebarStl.COM (636) 724-3434
Come to: Di Olivas at West County or St. Charles & Brow Spa at the Galleria or St. Clair Square to purchase your raffle tickets for Paul Mc Cartney. Each ticket is $20 for the chance at a PAIR of ALL INCLUSIVE (food, drinks, private restrooms) tickets in the UMB Championship Club. These tickets have a face value of $600 for the pair. 2nd Place Prize: 1 Year Supply of Di Oliva Oil & Vinegar (1 375 ml bottle of each month) 3rd Place Prize: (200 ml bottle of each month) All sales benefit Central India Christian Mission. I have personally vetted this organization (Central India Christian Mission) by traveling to India this past March to see if they are doing the work they say they are doing. I saw happy, well adjusted kids who have great expectations for their futures!
West County Center • 314.909.1171 • 617 South Main Street • St. Charles • 636.724.8282 • diolivas.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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shop here
Ks
photoGraphy by anna petrow
the kansas city bbq store oLAThe, Ks. whether you’re a backyard
beginner or a Kansas city competitive barbecue champ, you want to learn from the people who know their stuff. enter The Kansas City BBQ Store in olathe, Kansas. the shop was founded in 2006 by Jeff and Joy Stehney, owners of Joe’s Kansas city bar-b-Que restaurants and founding members of
the championship competition barbecue team Slaughterhouse Five. the Stehneys’ passion for great barbecue has garnered them an impressive roster of awards. the Kansas city bbQ Store is a one-stop shop for your barbecue needs, with a vast selection of grills, smokers, sauces, wood chips and more. browse the staggering selection of sauces, rubs and
written by Jenny VerGara
seasonings from traditional barbecue regions across the u.S., including texas, Memphis, alabama, the carolinas and, of course, Kansas city. experiment with a new barbecue sauce or try a favorite rub from a local competition team. the store’s impressive inventory of tools features smokers and grills from weber, horizon Smokers, big Green egg, traeger pellet
Grills and american barbeque Systems, which is made locally in olathe. cutlery, cookware, utensils, thermometers, barbecue tech gadgets and grates are also available. The Kansas City BBQ Store, 11922 S. Strang Line Road, Olathe, Kansas, 913.782.5171, thekansascitybbqstore.com
artisan products 7cs winery wine pouches
blues hog barbecue sauce
written by nancy StileS
WAshINGToN, Mo. with numerous first-place awards from the american royal world Series of barbecue Sauce contest, Blues Hog‘s barbecue sauce is renowned in both the competitive barbecue circuit and backyards across the country. pitmaster bill arnold started blues hog in his hometown outside Memphis but eventually moved to Missouri, where it really took off. blues hog’s original bbQ Sauce is an all-natural “sweet with the right amount of heat” sauce with a thick consistency; other flavors include honey mustard and Smokey Mountain. tim and terri Scheer, owners of Gateway Drum Smokers and Shake ‘n bake bbQ competition team and longtime friends of arnold, recently purchased blues hog and plan to preserve its legacy as the “choice of champions” sauce.
WALNUT GroVe, Mo. in the past few years, local breweries have fulfilled our float-trip dreams by offering craft beer in cans; glass is not allowed on or near any Missouri waterway. but what if you prefer wine? 7Cs Winery in walnut Grove, Missouri, has your solution, offering eco- and river-friendly pouches of nearly all its wines. Grab one to go in 375ml or 750ml sizes of Stagecoach Vidal blanc lanc or elderberry wine – or try any of 7cs’ 13 meads, all available in pouches, including best-selling clover, wildflower or jalapeño flavors. Just ou can call the winery throw it in the cooler and sip all day. you to order the pouches or purchase them at its tasting room in walnut Grove, as well as select area retail stores soon.
7Cs Winery, 417.788.2263, 7cswinery.com photo courteSy 7cS winery
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feastmagazine.com
written by Daniel puMa
Blues Hog, 844.239.9898, blueshog.com photo courteSy blueS hoG
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FAIRVIEW HEIGHTS HAZELWOOD 100 COMMERCE LN 8780 PERSHALL RD 618-394-0833 314-522-8886 ST. LOUIS SOUTH COUNTY 3205 South Kingshighway Blvd. PLAZA 3839 lemay ferry rd
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A HOME DECOR LIQUIDATORS COMPANY • NO CREDIT CHECK FINANCING• w w w . h d o u t l e t s . c o m
New menu to debut July 13 Chef Leventhal’s first Chaz menu will showcase his modern American cooking style infused with gastro techniques and emphasis on freshness (locally sourced ingredients whenever possible). Guests sampling his nightly specials through June will have their say on the final menu as well.
Kansas City Jazz, dining specials and getaways Summer entertainment includes Strings on the Green Fridays & Saturdays, live music nightly and at Weekend Jazz Brunch, Happy Hour specials, Wine of the Month, and a portfolio of valueloaded getaway packages. Visit raphaelkc.com.
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325 Ward Parkway I Country Club Plaza I 816.756.3800 I raphaelkc.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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French country charm
with a
Tuscan Feel Family-owned vineyard
Nestled amidst the picturesque, rolling hills of De Soto, Missouri Tasting Room Outdoor courtyard patio with deck A charming, intimate winery experience with first-class amenities Restaurant now open serving lunch and by reservation only Thursday night dinner
a PerFect Wedding Venue Booking For 2016 and 2017 like us on FaceBook
Located just 45 minutes south of St. Louis 12237 Peter Moore Ln | De Soto,MO, 63020 lachancevineyards.com
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L I G H T I N G 42
feastmagazine.com
july 2 0 1 6
mystery shopper
twist some arms on p. 48 photography by jonathan gayman
healthy appetite
Pesto Potato salad with Kale
sTorY, recIPe AnD PhoToGrAPhY BY sherrIe cAsTellAno
Although I’m fairly certain that most people like potatoes in general, I think there are a lot of opinions out there about potato salad. There are supporters of the creamy mayo-based variety, the tangy vinegar-based kind and fans of everything in between. Personally, I love indulgent, creamy, classic American potato salad – you know, the type that’s preprepared in the deli section, the kind your grandmother makes, loaded with mayonnaise, mustard, celery and sometimes dill. I could eat gallons of it. Yes, this is a confession, a deep, dark secret really. But I can’t possibly be the only person who feels this way. There’s something really nostalgic and comforting about the
potato salad we were served growing up. Whether you hail from the creamy or the tangy camp, I know we can all agree that potato salad makes us feel happy and thankful for the long summer days still ahead. For all of its tasty qualities, potato salad is rarely good for you. This pesto potato salad with kale, however, packs a nutritionally dense punch, filled with leafy greens, healthy plant-based fats and even some vitamin B from the nutritional yeast. It’s also packed with herbs and has a rich depth and texture. This potato salad recipe borders on healthy, but you wouldn’t necessarily know it – and that’s a good thing. You can feel proud serving this side at all of your cookouts, parties and picnics this summer.
Sherrie Castellano is a health coach, photographer and private chef based in St. Louis. She writes and photographs the seasonally inspired vegetarian and gluten-free food blog With Food + Love. She has contributed work to Driftless Magazine, Vegetarian Times, Go Gluten-Free Magazine, Food52 and Urban Outfitters, among others. You can find her hanging with her aviation-enthusiast husband, sipping Earl Grey tea, green juice and/or bourbon.
Pesto Potato Salad with Kale serves | 4 | pesto
¼ cup olive oil 1 tbsp lemon juice sea salt, to taste 1 cup tightly packed fresh basil ¼ cup walnuts 1 clove garlic 1 tbsp nutritional yeast (optional) freshly ground black pepper, to taste potato salad
2 cups finely shredded kale 1 tbsp olive oil ½ tbsp lemon juice pinch salt 1 lb fingerling potatoes, diced into bite-sized pieces ¼ cup diced green onions (to serve)
| Preparation – Pesto | In a food processor, pulse all ingredients until smooth. set aside.
| Preparation – Potato Salad | In a small bowl, massage shredded kale, olive oil, lemon juice and salt with your hands until kale is bright green and wilted slightly, 3 to 5 minutes. set aside. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Boil potatoes until tender. Drain and set aside. In a large bowl, mix together cooked potatoes, kale mixture, green onions and pesto to taste. serve at room temperature or make ahead of time and serve chilled.
Take your appliances for a visual test-drive. See every Sub-Zero and Wolf product in its natural environment at The Living Kitchen. Jump-start your plans for a new kitchen. Get hands-on with the complete line of Sub-Zero and Wolf products as you move from one full-scale kitchen vignette to the next. Once you’ve been inspired by all that your new kitchen can be, our specialists will help you turn your dreams into a reality.
11610 Page Service Drive St. Louis, MO 63146 314-373-2000
1694 Larkin Williams Road Fenton, MO 63026 636-349-4946
Additional Location: 1660 Bryan Road | O’Fallon, MO 63368 | 636-244-3844
Inspired Local Food Culture
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feastmagazine.com
july 2 0 1 6
Lou Fusz Subaru
is the key to exceptional service. • Exceptional Customer Service • Huge Selection and Savings • Proud Supporter of the Humane Society of Missouri
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10329 Old Olive Street St. Louis, MO 63141 Subaru.Fusz.com 314-994-1500
Visit our new & expanded location to best serve our customers! Inspired Local Food Culture
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mystery shopper
Meet: OctOpus What has eight arms, three hearts and is older than a dinosaur? come on; you know this one. What Is It?
octopuses (the correct plural, whereas the oft-used “octopi” is not) are exactly what you think they are: vastly intelligent, prehistoric sea creatures with big brains and more arms than you or i would know what to do with. Unlike humans, two-thirds of their neurons are located in their tentacles, which means these mysterious creatures can be opening a jar while their brains work on something entirely different, like strategizing their next meal. they really can open jars, too: cephalopods are highly intelligent, can accomplish problemsolving tasks and retain information for later use. physically they’re masterful and can squeeze their invertebrate bodies through any space larger than their chickenlike beaks. this skill, combined with a complex camouflaging system and toxic ink, keeps them safe in the water. What Do I Do WIth It?
octopus is relatively common on tables in east asia, greece, spain, portugal, and north and West africa, where
story and recipe by shannon Weber photography by jonanthan gayman
there’s easy access to the cephalopods. stateside, they’re largely treated (and should be) as more of a delicacy. it’s difficult to find them fresh, which in fact can be beneficial because the freezing process helps tenderize the meat. octopuses are large and can be daunting to thaw due to their size and, quite honestly, drama – something i like to call “the sci-fi film effect.” as an octopus unfurls slowly in your sink, it mimics the creature’s sea movements, and you’ll swear it’s alive even though you know that’s impossible. once you get past that terror, it’s mostly smooth sailing. no matter what you do with it, octopus usually benefits from a nice braise for about an hour or so to tenderize the meat. do this with water, broth or wine, and add aromatics as you see fit. after that, octopus can be grilled, sauced, spiced or glazed; it handles spice rather well, so don’t be shy about adding heat. charring the arms post-braise is a nice way to introduce a little smokiness and caramelization to the party and only takes minutes to accomplish. octopus is delectable warm or cool and can be served solo with a side of vegetables or atop a salad like this recipe.
Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as bon appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and in life.
Charred Octopus Salad This salad is all about showcasing the beauty and flavor of octopus. Serves | 4 | OctOpus
1 medium white onion, peeled and quartered 2 stalks celery, chopped into large pieces 4 cloves garlic, smashed 2 bay leaves 1 bunch fresh parsley ½ tsp black peppercorns 1 5- to 6-lb octopus, thawed and rinsed, head and beak removed Balsamic Vinaigrette
1⁄3 cup balsamic vinegar 1 clove garlic, minced 2 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley leaves 1 Tbsp honey 2 tsp Dijon mustard ¾ cup olive oil sea salt and freshly ground black pepper salad
3 Tbsp vegetable or grapeseed oil cooked octopus (recipe below) sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 oz baby arugula 2 to 3 green onions, white and light green parts only, sliced very thinly 6 oz bacon, crisped and crumbled 1 cup fresh blackberries 16 to 20 leaves fresh basil, torn
| Preparation – Octopus | in a large stockpot, combine first 6 ingredients. settle octopus arms in vegetables and fill pot with water; set over high heat and bring to a boil. reduce heat to simmer, cover and allow to cook for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until octopus is tender. remove octopus to a colander and allow to cool to room temperature. remove any gelatinous membranes from octopus arms with your hands and set octopus aside.
| Preparation – Balsamic Vinaigrette | in a small bowl, combine first 5 ingredients; whisk to combine. stream in oil slowly as you whisk to emulsify. season to taste with salt and pepper. place in jar, seal and refrigerate at least 1 hour.
| Preparation – Salad | heat a cast-iron skillet over high heat; add oil. season octopus with salt and pepper and add to pan; cook on all sides until nicely charred, 4 to 5 minutes. remove to plate to cool slightly. in a large bowl, toss arugula and green onions; divide onto 4 plates. divide octopus, bacon and blackberries over each. garnish with basil, season with salt and pepper and serve.
Benton Park Sidney Street Cafe Central West End Atlas Restaurant Brasserie by Niche Dressel’s Public House Drunken Fish Herbie’s Vintage ‘72 Kingside Diner Pi Pizzeria Retreat Gastropub The Scottish Arms Taste The Block The Tavern Kitchen and Bar Wildflower Restaurant Chesterfield Babbo’s Spaghetteria Pi Pizzeria YaYa’s Euro Bistro Clayton Avenue Restaurant Bar Les Freres CJ Muggs Five Star Burgers I Fratellini Kakao Chocolate Oceano Bistro Pastaria Remy’s Kitchen & Wine Bar Wheelhouse Columbia, MO Babbo’s Spaghetteria Creve Coeur Five Star Burgers La Salsa Fresh Mexican Grill Pickleman’s Gourmet Café
Downtown Bridge Tap House and Wine Bar Copia Urban Winery Drunken Fish Hiro Asian Kitchen Mango Peruvian Cuisine Pi Pizzeria Rooster 360 Rooftop Bar Frontenac Sugo’s Spaghetteria Via VIno Kirkwood Dewey’s Pizza – Kirkwood Five Star Burgers Pi Pizzeria Strange Donuts Lafayette Square Eleven Eleven Mississippi PW Pizza Square One Brewery & Distillery SqWires Restaurant Vin de Set Rooftop Bar & Bistro Maplewood Kakao Chocolate Strange Donuts Midtown The Fountain on Locust Pickleman’s Gourmet Café Small Batch
Soulard Frazer’s Restaurant & Lounge Joanie’s Pizzeria Joanie’s To-Go South City Quincy Street Bistro Rooster Sassafras Café at Missouri Botanical Gardens South City Diner The Shaved Duck South Hampton Grapeseed Onesto Pizza & Trattoria St. Charles/O’Fallon Bike Stop Café Dewey’s Pizza Rendezvous Café & Wine Bar The Hill Anthonino’s Taverna Guido’s Pizzeria and Tapas Lorenzo’s Trattoria LoRusso’s Cucina Modesto Tapas Bar & Restaurant
University City Bobo Noodle House Dewey’s Pizza Eclipse Restaurant The Melting Pot Pi Pizzeria Salt + Smoke Tavolo V Three Kings Public House Webster Groves Big Sky Café CJ Muggs Dewey’s Pizza Milagro Modern Mexican The Block West County Dewey’s Pizza Drunken Fish The Tavern Kitchen and Bar The Wolf Edwardsville, IL Dewey’s Pizza Sugo’s Spaghetteria
Visit OperationFoodSearch.org for a list of participating restaurants and their Tomato Explosion dishes!
Richmond Heights Boundary at the Cheshire Riverbend Whittemore House Rock Hill Katie’s Pizza and Pasta
GET THE TOMATO EXPLOSION EXPERIENCE & ENTER TO WIN A $100 GIFT CARD! 1. Download Blippar App. 2. Fill screen with Tomato Explosion logo. 3 Take a quiz, enter to win $100 gift card & share your selfie. Inspired Local Food Culture
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menu options
grilled summer VegeTable PasTa During the height of summer, our backyard gardens are bursting with tomatoes, zucchini, peppers and more heat-loving fruits and vegetables ripe for the picking. Don’t let one single piece of fresh produce go to waste this season, whether enjoyed raw, pickled, preserved or even grilled and tossed with pasta for Fourth of July cookouts or picnics. If you’re grilling outside, I recommend using a vegetable basket
Story anD recIpe by GabrIelle DeMIcHele pHotoGrapHy by JonatHan GayMan
to easily cook all of the many vegetables in this recipe at once – and, this way, you’ll save time by not having to flip each one individually. If you want to cook vegetables in your kitchen, use a grill pan over your stovetop and take care not to overload the pan by cooking in batches. However you choose to prepare the vegetables, this dish is sure to satisfy as either a hearty side dish or main course.
chef’s tips SHAPE UP. For this recipe, it’s important to choose a pasta with the ability to hold onto the flavors of the sauce. penne rigate looks like mostaccioli but has smaller lines on the outside and tosses well with sauce. cavatappi is the Italian word for corkscrew, and the pasta has valleys and curls to hold onto sauce. conchiglie means shell in Italian, and the pasta’s shape allows it to soak up sauce. FRESHEN UP. When adding fresh herbs to a dish, wait to
cut them until just before you need to add them, as tender
Serves | 4 to 6 | 2 2 2
herbs such as basil and marjoram will turn black if left out too long after cutting. VEG OUT. the vegetables in this recipe require very hot heat
in order to color quickly since the cooking time is so short. For this reason, cut the vegetables into different sizes and within ranges that will allow them to cook to the correct tenderness at the same time. a certain amount of charring is desired on the vegetables, as caramelization adds a deeper, nuttier flavor.
the menu • Summer Caprese Salad • Grilled Summer Vegetable Pasta • Baked Fish and Potatoes with Thyme and Garlic • Blueberry Tart with Whipped Cream
Grilled summer Vegetable pasta
LEARN MORE. In this class you’ll learn how to perfectly grill or cook and caramelize a variety of vegetables chopped at various sizes all at once. you’ll also learn how to expertly bake flaky and flavorful fish and use in-season blueberries to make a tart with fresh whipped cream.
get hands-on: Join Feast Magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on Wed., July 27, at 6pm at the des Peres, Missouri, location, to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $40 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com or call 314.909.1704.
8 2 4 to 6 3 ½ 2 2 24 2 1 6 1 1 ½
red peppers, seeded and cut into 1-inch dice yellow or orange peppers, seeded and cut into 1-inch dice red onions, peeled and cut into 8 wedges medium-sized cloves garlic, peeled bulbs fennel, cored and sliced Tbsp grapeseed oil, divided tsp sea salt, divided, plus more for seasoning tsp freshly ground black pepper, divided, plus more for seasoning small zucchini, cut into 1-inch dice small yellow squash, cut into 1-inch dice cherry tomatoes tsp balsamic glaze, divided lb pasta leaves basil, chiffonade tsp minced fresh marjoram tsp minced fresh parsley drizzle olive oil cup finely grated parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
| preparation | prepare coals for charcoal grill if using. In a large bowl, combine peppers, onion, garlic and fennel and toss with 2 to 3 tablespoons grapeseed oil, ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. In a separate bowl, combine zucchini, squash and tomatoes and toss with 2 to 3 tablespoons grapeseed oil, ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. If using a charcoal grill, transfer peppers and onions onto a vegetable rack and place on grill. cook for 7 to 10 minutes or until tender, depending on heat. If using a grill pan, preheat pan until smoking hot, add vegetables in batches and cook until tender. remove to a large bowl and set aside. repeat with second bowl of vegetables, but cook for less time over high heat, about 5 to 8 minutes, depending on heat of grill or grill pan. add to large bowl of vegetables, drizzle with 1 teaspoon balsamic glaze, toss, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water (at least 6 quarts) to a rolling boil. add 2 teaspoons salt to water and cook pasta according to package directions. When pasta is al dente, drain into a colander. combine cooked pasta with grilled vegetables; drizzle with remaining balsamic glaze; add basil, marjoram, parsley, olive oil and grated cheese; and toss until well combined. add salt and pepper to taste. Serve at room temperature.
TV
WATCH IT ON THESE NETWORKS
In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Saturdays and Sundays at 6:30pm.
In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Sundays at 5:30pm.
You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Thursdays at 8pm and Saturdays at 4:30pm.
Feast TV will air in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) every Monday at 12:30pm.
Small-scale meat production is making a comeback across the country and in this episode, we visit Newman Farm and then head to Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions, where a chef-turned-butcher brings a culinary approach to his neighborhood shop. We also visit La Quercia, one of the country’s foremost charcuterie makers and stop by Wenneman Meat Market, a full-service processor that has been taking cattle and hogs from slaughter to an in-house meat counter since 1927. In the kitchen, host Cat Neville will show you how to make an ‘nduja-stuffed pork roulade worthy of your next dinner party.
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sweet ideas
Peach-BalSamic Swirl ice cream I’m an ice cream purist. I believe ice cream should always be made with egg yolks and heavy cream. The following peach-balsamic swirl ice cream is a custard-based frozen dessert based on the French-style of ice cream and starts with a crème anglaise. Most American ice cream is Philadelphia-style and made without the extra effort of a stirred custard. Although the fresh taste of the cream stands out, Philadelphia-style ice cream tends to be icy and not nearly as rich as its French counterpart. An ultravelvety texture and flavor is achieved by simply allowing the ice cream base to
sTory ANd recIPe by chrIsTy AugusTIN PhoTogrAPhy by cheryl WAller
mature in the refrigerator overnight. This crucial step allows the egg and dairy proteins to unwind and wiggle themselves together into a silky custard. I use this trick with baked custard bases, too, like crème brûlée and flan. Not interested in a peach-balsamic flavor? The following ice cream base recipe is delicious on its own or can be flavored to your preference – try steeping fresh herbs into the dairy, swirling in jam at the end or topping with tiny chocolate shavings and cookie crumbles.
Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. Learn more at pintsizebakery.com.
Peach-Balsamic Swirl Ice Cream Yields | 1 quart | Peach-Balsamic swirl
¼ cup honey 2 fresh peaches, peeled and chopped into large dice 3 Tbsp balsamic vinegar ice cream Base
1½ 1½ ¾ ¼ 6
cups heavy cream cups whole milk, divided cup granulated sugar, divided tsp kosher salt egg yolks ice bath 1 tsp vanilla extract
| Preparation – Peach-Balsamic Swirl | In a saucepot over low heat, simmer honey and peaches just until juices are released. Macerate overnight in refrigerator. The next day, strain peaches from juice, reserving both. In a saucepot over medium heat, cook juices with balsamic vinegar until a thick syrup consistency. remove from heat, cool to room temperature and stir back into macerated peaches.
| Preparation – Ice Cream Base | In a heavy-bottomed saucepan over low heat, combine cream, ¾ cup milk, ½ cup sugar and salt and bring to a simmer. Meanwhile, whisk egg yolks with remaining sugar until pale. Whisk warmed cream mixture into yolks by pouring in a thin stream. Add mixture back into pan and cook on low heat, never simmering, stirring constantly with a heatproof rubber spatula. It’s fully cooked when a finger run down a spoon leaves a trail through thickened custard. strain mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into remaining milk. chill in a bowl over an ice bath and refrigerate overnight. The next day, after preparing and cooling peach-balsamic swirl, freeze according to ice cream maker’s instructions. When nearly done churning, drizzle peach-balsamic swirl into machine. Freeze at least 3 hours or overnight.
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The King family has ruled concessions at state and county fairs far and wide for the past 30 years – and now they’re on a quest to pull saltwater taffy back into local food culture. Crawfish, crayfish, crawdads, mudbugs: You can call them whatever you like at Delta Crawfish in Paragould, Arkansas, as long as you also call them delicious. People flock to one of Missouri’s oldest ice cream parlors for scoops, sundaes and a taste of summer – but first, they have to get in line. Eight chefs share their favorite off-the-clock burger recipes. CrAwfish AT DElTA CrAwfish in PArAgoulD, ArKAnsAs (P. 65) PhoTogrAPhY bY AMY long
Written by Liz MiLLer
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PhotograPhy by judd deMaLine MaLine
he sights and sounds at HerrinFesta Italiana, an annual town fair held in Herrin, Illinois, are familiar and exhilarating: the skid and wallop of bumper cars colliding, the blue and yellow neon lights of the Tilt-A-Whirl illuminating neighboring carnival games, Ferris wheel cars climbing upward and glittering against the softly setting sun. The air is perfumed with deep-fried dough and freshly spun sugar, and the aroma of buttery popcorn is so thick you can almost taste it. Walking through the fairgrounds, it’s hard not to feel nostalgic for your childhood, when the days and weeks of summer vacation seemed to stretch out endlessly. Memories, one after another, float to the surface: hot and sticky July afternoons spent playing games of ringtoss with your kid sister, pockets stuffed with carnival tickets and candy, or timidly sharing a funnel cake with your first crush. On patches of grass or asphalt just like these, your parents and grandparents and great-grandparents and millions of other Americans have felt the same joy and wonder at the fair. You know that even if you don’t win a round of balloon darts tonight, you’ll leave with a greater prize. For the past 30 years, from behind the windows of hand-dipped corn-dog stands or saltwater taffy booths, the King family has watched these memories take shape for generations of Midwesterners – and you can bet they’ve prized every moment of it.
If it weren’t for the success of one hot-dog vendor, Frank and Vickie King probably wouldn’t have gotten into the concessions business. Frank, a fan of hot rods, took Vickie to a car show in Springfield, Illinois, in the mid-1980s. While briefly stopping to rest at a picnic table, the couple spotted a line crowding around a small hot-dog stand. “We were watching this guy and how busy they were, and we decided, ‘Hey, we can do this,’” Vickie says. “We scraped together everything we could and borrowed $3,500 from [Frank’s parents] to buy our first itty-bitty trailer.” The Kings netted just $14 in their first week of business. While Frank was driving home from their last event that week, Vickie, who was nine months pregnant with the couple’s second child, went into labor.
“The best part about the business is if you go somewhere and your product doesn’t go well, you don’t have to go back – you control your own destiny,” Vickie says. “Most of the places we go, we’ve been there for many years, and we have connections there and a great following. Our same customers will come back and see us year after year after year.” Herrin has always been their home base; during the school year the kids usually stayed home with Vickie. “When we were little, we’d work at all the state fairs and come home, do the Du Quoin [State] Fair [in Du Quoin, Illinois], close on Sunday, drive straight home and go to school [Monday],” says Tabatha, whose upcoming 30th birthday will also mark the company’s 30th anniversary.
“I was thinking, ‘What have we done?’” Vickie says, laughing “It’s all we’ve ever known,” says Tony, 32. as she recalls the chaos of those early days. “We just kept going – the one thing we did know how to do was work hard.” In the early ’90s, just before the couple’s third child, Taylor, was born, Frank set his sights on adding saltwater taffy to King’s selection of fair fare. Over the years, Frank’s parents and sisters and brothers got involved in the business, called King’s Food Service, “We started researching and calling places, and every as well, serving corn dogs, funnel cakes, fresh sweet time we called somewhere, we ended up being sent back tea, lemon and orange shake-ups, and King’s Taters, the to this man in Ohio,” Vickie says. well-known spiralized potato ribbon fries that King’s has been serving since 1987. That man was Dennis Motter, the husband of Sharon Motter, heir to Sutter’s Taffy company, which had been “We don’t use sugar water for our lemonade shake-ups; a stalwart in her hometown of Hayesville, Ohio, since we squeeze real lemons with sugar, water and ice, and you shake it until it has foam on it, or a head, like a beer,” Vickie 1919. Founded by Sharon’s parents, Ed and Flo Sutter, the taffy company gained national attention at the 1939 says. “We still do everything the way it started out – the World’s Fair in Queens, New York, where it sold more than way it’s supposed to be. You have to work a little harder, a million boxes of taffy. (According to the Kings’ research, but in the long run, it’s worth it.” two flavors were offered at the time: vanilla and black walnut.) The Sutters took their taffy-pulling show on the Frank and Vickie slowly forged their own route across the road, becoming a fair favorite from Ohio to Illinois to Midwest, mostly vending at state and county fairs with Missouri and beyond. their three children, Tony, Tabatha and Taylor, in tow.
With concessions and near-constant travel in common, Frank King and Dennis Motter became fast friends. By the late ’90s, the Motters agreed to sell the Kings their family’s taffy business, but tragedy sunk the deal. Dennis passed away unexpectedly in 1997, and Sharon and her daughter, Cameo Yeater, decided to keep Sutter’s in the family. Sharon passed away in 2006, and two years later, the Kings got a call from Yeater. “She was ready to sell and wanted us to have the business,” Vickie says. “I guess it was our family values – they knew we would treat it like they treated it, and that was important to them.”
There are a few myths surrounding the origin of saltwater taffy, and each involves a different who, when and where. Mostly, though, all of the stories have the “how” in common: In the late 1800s, an Atlantic City confectioner’s seaside shop was flooded with saltwater after a bad storm. As a joke, the shop owner told customers that the only thing left in stock was saltwater taffy – taffy also used to be a catchall term for candy – and the name stuck. In Fast Food and Junk Food, food historian Andrew F. Smith offers a more practical account: The candy’s coastal name was nothing but “a marketing ploy – and a very successful one, at that,” devised by a clever candymaker. The real story might forever be lost at sea, but according to Smith, more than 450 companies were making saltwater taffy by the 1920s, from Massachusetts to Florida. For Sutter’s, business exploded across the Midwest.
Today, Sutter’s is a King family affair. Frank and Vickie operate the businesses with two of their three adult children, Tony and Tabatha; Tony’s wife, Krista; and several other family members and friends. Sutter’s has 10 dedicated mobile concession trailers for making and selling taffy on-site at fairs and festivals. All of the trailers feature pulling and wrapping machines so fairgoers can watch the entire taffy-making process from start to finish behind the glass. Long before the Kings bought Sutter’s, Tabatha recalls being out on the road with her family, seeking out the taffy trailer on fairgrounds across the Midwest. As kids, she and Tony helped their parents run the concessions stands, including a memorable unsupervised afternoon spent scrambling to serve customers. “I remember my dad was like, ‘OK, you and Tony are in this lemon shake-up stand; I’ll be back in a little bit,’ and we had lines for days,” Tabatha says. “I was maybe 8 years old.” Vickie remembers the events of that hot summer day unfolding a little differently. “That was an accident; we thought we were giving them something to do, to let them have fun… and [Frank] walks in and there’s sugar everywhere, and these two little guys are shaking lemonade like there’s no tomorrow.” Tony and Tabatha both attended Southern Illinois University in Carbondale, Illinois, and after graduation, they both chose to move back to Herrin to join the family business. Both sister and brother now have children of their own, and they love being able to travel as one big family.
“Back in the [early 1900s] you didn’t go to the grocery store and get candy, you went to the grocery store and you got taffy,” Frank says. “There were only a handful of products out there at that time, and taffy was kind of the new candy, so [Sutter’s Taffy] became really successful really fast.” Ed Sutter got his first taste of saltwater taffy in the early 1900s while working at Cedar Point, North America’s second-oldest continuously operated amusement park, in Sandusky, Ohio. After his success at the World’s Fair in 1939, Ed introduced new packaging for his taffy: goldenrod-yellow boxes featuring illustrations of farm animals, vegetables, a big-top circus tent and a large wave crashing into the ocean, each hand-sketched by Ed himself. The Kings use the same brightly colored boxes today, which hold 14 ounces of taffy. “As cheesy as some of the stuff is on [the box], it works and it’s what people know us by,” Tony says. “I think we’ll always keep a version of our original yellow box.”
“The reason we like it and do it is because it’s a way that our children can always be with us,” Vickie says. “The work isn’t for everybody; not everybody likes to work with [his or her] spouse and be open 24/7, but we do. We work together, and we play together. We like having [our kids] around and being able to see them every day. And now our grandchildren are out with us, too.” Tony and Krista’s oldest child, Mason, 8, is particularly eager to join the business. “If you ask him what he wants to do when he
grows up, he’ll say he wants to sell taffy,” Krista says. Tony, who majored in marketing, knew he could help his parents grow King’s and Sutter’s through refreshed branding, new websites and social media. Sutter’s joined Instagram in 2013, and Tony has since created a Facebook page for the taffy company. Just a few months ago, Tony says, Ed and Flo Sutter’s great-granddaughter started following Sutter’s Taffy on Instagram. Tony also sees a connection between his family’s business and the food-truck trend that’s spiked in popularity in the past decade. Long before food trucks hit streets in cities across America, the Kings and concessionaires like them have served from-scratch fare on the go. From a customer’s perspective, he doesn’t see a difference between ordering cookies-and-cream shaved snow from a popular food truck versus a cookies-and-cream funnel cake from one of King’s trailers. “Our funnel cakes have always been made to order,” Tony says. “We’re making them right there in front of [the customer], mixing the batter, making our icings… everything is done in our stand’s kitchen. We’ve been doing this for 30 years.”
When the King family purchased Sutter’s, the company sold nine flavors of taffy, including chocolate, banana and cinnamon. Ten standard flavors are offered today, including the original nine plus peanut butter, which has quickly become one of Sutter’s most popular flavors. Vanilla is the top seller, with black walnut and strawberry as two favorites year after year. According to Tony, and best-sellers vary from region to region. “Up north they like more of the spices, the cinnamon and peppermint,” he says. “Strawberry and banana are still strong pretty much across the board. It’s interesting – everywhere we go, they all have their own flavors they’ve grown accustomed to.” Some flavors are strictly regional – for the Ohio State Fair, Sutter’s makes a peanut butter-chocolate “Buckeye” taffy and a
And there’s a reason the boxes are so recognizable and iconic to customers: Sutter’s wild ride at the World’s Fair catapulted its visibility and profits. During the company’s busiest year in 1957, its mobile taffy trailers visited 29 different state fairs and 64 county fairs. In a July 1969 article about the Sutter’s “busy season” published in the Mansfield News Journal out of Mansfield, Ohio – a small town next to Hayesville – Ed is described as “… pretty generally recognized as the nation’s leading salt water [sic] taffy concessionaire.” In Ed Sutter’s 1971 obituary, printed in the same newspaper, he is remembered as the “taffy king.” 58
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FROM LEFT TO RIGHT:
Taylor; Tabatha; Frank holding Tabatha’s son, Ezra; Vickie, standing with Tony and Krista’s daughter, Matilda; Tony, standing with his and Krista’s eldest son, Mason; and Krista, holding her and Tony’s youngest child, Merritt.
blue-colored hot cinnamon “Superman” flavor. Jalapeño has been a favorite at the State Fair of Texas for years, and it’s only getting hotter. “Every year people say [the jalapeño is] good, but that it’s not hot enough, so we started buying habaneros and doing a mixture,” Tony says. For the past few years, Tony has also been experimenting with new flavors, including sour options like lemon, lime and orange sherbet, as well as some inspired by food-and-drink trends. He usually conducts new flavor R&D when he’s home, at King’s climate-controlled kitchen in Herrin. Last season, though, two of Tony’s on-the-spot creations at fairs included pumpkin spice and an Old Fashioned made with orange zest, cherries and bourbon. “The younger generation, it seems like they like the sour flavors and some of the out-there things,” Vickie says. “Tony is really good – when he’s on-site somewhere, he will throw together some crazy combinations that work, and he’ll sell out of them all the time.” Although they’re always testing new flavors, the Kings haven’t changed the base recipe for Sutter’s saltwater taffy, which has been the same for almost a century. Granulated sugar, corn syrup, butter and salt are cooked over medium-low heat until caramelized, and then the mixture is poured onto a cooling tray. Contrary to its name, saltwater taffy isn’t always made with salt, but Sutter’s has included it in its taffy since the very beginning. “Temperature is everything,” Vickie says of the cooking process. At the kitchen in Herrin, temperature and humidity are easier to gauge and control, but when the Kings are out on the road, pulling taffy inside trailers, it can fluctuate. On cool spring days, candy will be cooked to around 246°F, but on hot and humid summer days, it might need to be cooked to 250°F. A 4-degree difference might not seem significant, but every degree counts when you’re making candy. Once the candy has cooled, it resembles caramel; it’s then transferred to a pulling machine, where it becomes taffy. Essential oils and flavorings are added to the candy during the pulling process, including vanilla, peppermint and cinnamon. Exceptions include the black walnut and pecan flavors, which are made with both flavorings and chunks of real nuts (the black walnuts are sourced from Hammons Products Co. in Stockton, Missouri), and peanut butter, where vanilla taffy is pulled and then rolled around pieces of peanut butter. The taffy-pulling machines have two large spinning arms that stretch the candy over and over again. The process aerates the taffy, producing tiny air bubbles that result in a light and fluffy final product. The motion and rhythm of the machines pull you in, as well. There seems to be no end or beginning, as its arms climb and dive, folding and unfolding shimmering waves of taffy in an infinite loop, undulating like whitecapped coastal swells. The rise and fall is comforting and mesmerizing. Finally, the silky, pliable candy is carefully fed through a wrapping machine that cuts it into 60
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a round shape called a “kiss.” Vickie estimates that some of the company’s oldest taffy-pulling and candy-wrapping machines have been in operation for 60 or 70 years. The machines were originally made to wrap pieces of bubblegum, and when saltwater taffy became all the rage at the turn of the 20th century, it was either cut into a kiss shape or a long and cylindrical “log.” Sutter’s vintage machines loudly hum and vibrate and make a clickity-click noise as they cut kisses and then wrap them in bow tie-shaped pieces of wax paper. “If you were to ask our customers what they remember about our taffy – besides getting a box and eating it – it’s the sound that the machines make,” Tony says. “And when we’re running the machine, it’s just a clickity-clickity noise, making 160 pieces of taffy a minute, and you can hear it really far away.” On a busy day at some of the larger state fairs, Frank estimates that Sutter’s makes around 100,000 taffy kisses. Customers swarm the Sutter’s stand to watch the entire process unfold, often asking to try a warm piece of taffy fresh off the line. “Taffy is one of those lost, dying breeds,” Vickie says. “To do it the right way, the old-fashioned way, [customers] have to see you make it.”
In just a few years, Sutter’s Taffy will celebrate its 100th anniversary. When Ed Sutter took his first taffy trailer out on the road, state and county fairs were largely focused around agriculture and livestock competitions and exhibitions, with concessions and games and amusements fortifying that foundation. These industries still drive many state and county fairs, but the King family has seen a sea change in the past three decades, with more fairs – in particular, the heralded Minnesota State Fair, where they have vended for five years now – spotlighting artisan foodand-drink producers. (Back in the ’50s and ’60s, Sutter’s vended at the Minnesota State Fair, too.) “Today, the best fairs in the country are based around food,” Frank says. “You go to Minnesota, and it’s a food fair. The numbers that they produce there… some of them are staggering. That fair is so successful because when you go there, everything is at the same level.” Candy options have also dramatically changed and increased in America in the past century. Candy companies like Nestle and Brach’s opened around the turn of the 20th century, and early on, each produced taffy or some sort of soft candy similar to Sutter’s. “My opinion of Ed [Sutter] is that he got stuck – he was in the fair world, and he just stayed right in it; he was making a good living,” Frank says. “And then another fair guy decided he was going to make Tootsie Rolls and stay at home.” Tony is determined to make sure Sutter’s doesn’t get stuck a second time. He believes the taffy company can expand to encompass the best of both worlds: 14-ounce boxes sold at fairs across the country, as well as smaller, more retail-friendly boxes made with a slightly updated design to sell in artisan food shops.
“Saltwater taffy is such an old product, and we’re trying to make it relevant again,” Tony says. “If my kids didn’t know better, Airheads would be their soft candy of choice. In the chocolate world that’s a big thing: artisanal, bean-to-bar chocolate, and that’s what I want us to be in the taffy world.” Tony also wants to expand the number of taffy flavors sold online to include some of the specialties like salted caramel and lemon-lime, as well as a line of organic and all-natural taffy. “One of the top questions we get is, “Is there salt in the taffy?’” Tony says. “And now, also, ‘Is it gluten-free?’ And the answer to both is yes.” Sutter’s currently buys its corn syrup from Gateway Food Products Co. based in Dupo, Illinois. Gateway recently introduced an organic corn syrup, and Tony has already placed an order. The King family believes that new and all-natural flavors have the potential to reach a wider audience – likely a slightly younger one, as well – but they also know where the heart of the business beats strongest. “Most of our customers are out on the road,” Tony says. “Those are the people we know.” The Kings are currently in the thick of their busy season, driving from town to town and fair to fair. They’ll be closest to home at the Du Quoin State Fair in August and the Semo District Fair in Cape Girardeau, Missouri, in September. The family looks forward to seeing familiar faces, as they do every year, and catching up with generations of people who still cherish Sutter’s saltwater taffy. “I can’t tell you how many teenagers come up to our stand and say, ‘I promised my mom and my grandma that I’d bring this home for them,’” Vickie says. “It’s kind of instilling in the younger generation that this was really something special when the fair came to town – the taffy was there, and it was something you could only get at the fair.” King’s Food Service, kingsfoodservice.com Sutter’s Taffy, sutterstaffy.com
Find Sutter’s Taffy at the following summer fairs and festivals: OhiO State Fair, COlumbuS, OhiO from July 27 to Aug. 7 indiana State Fair, indianapOliS from Aug. 5 to 21 illinOiS State Fair, SpringField, illinOiS, from Aug. 11 to 21 minneSOta State Fair, St. paul, minneSOta, from Aug. 25 to Sept. 5 du QuOin State Fair, du QuOin, illinOiS from Aug. 26 to Sept. 5 SemO diStriCt Fair, Cape girardeau, miSSOuri, from Sept. 10 to 17 State Fair OF texaS, dallaS from Sept. 30 to Oct. 23
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tiny, reddish-brown crawfish wiggles its pinchers in the bottom of what looks like a giant fast-food fry basket on a pleasant but overcast morning in Paragould, arkansas, about 15 miles west of the missouri bootheel border. it’s all the little mudbug can muster. there are a few more of its compatriots scattered throughout 12 baskets in a halved fuel tank, but most of these leftovers are no longer moving; the rest are in coolers waiting to be sold or cooked. “it’s it’s nothing fancy,” shrugs Devalyn Duke, co-owner of Delta crawfish in Paragould. ““it’s a dirty job, but the end result on the plate is awesome.” the repurposed fuel tank is a crawfish vat that Delta’s founder, ron Pigue, specially made for cleaning and purging the crustaceans. the other half of the fuel tank is at another crawfish company in Parkin, arkansas. Duke and his wife, Jashena turner Duke, also own Duke’s hot shot Delivery Ja in their hometown of Jonesboro, arkansas, about 30 minutes southwest of Paragould and the home of arkansas state University. Duke was cooking crawfish sourced from Pigue in the parking lot of a liquor store (“What goes hand in hand? beer and crawfish.”) when an unexpected opportunity arose. Pigue’s father-in-law, who delivered the crawfish, told Duke that they weren’t necessarily looking to sell the business but would if the right buyer came along.
Written by nancy stiles PhotograPhy by amy long
“What did i think? i thought he was crazy,” Jashena says as her husband laughs. “Well, first off, he said we wouldn’t have to work. but you can see i’m up here working!” the office phone interrupts her. “the phone rings off the wall – you can’t get anything else done because of the phone,” she says, picking up. “Delta crawfish?”
CrAwfish, CrAyfish, CrAwdAds, mudbugs: you CAn CAll them whAtever you like At deltA CrAwfish, As long As you Also CAll them deliCious. crawfish can be harvested in their natural habitat – it’s as simple as putting out traps in a pond, lake, marsh or swamp – but in the 1950s, research was conducted on reflooding rice fields after grain harvest to yield crawfish. today, more than 50 percent of the crawfish aquaculture in louisiana, the largest crawfish producer in the nation, is practiced in conjunction with rice production. rice is planted in about 2 inches of water in march and april; “seed” crawfish are added when the rice has grown tall enough to shade the water and keep it cool. as it gets hotter, though, the crawfish burrow into the ground to lay eggs; when the rice fields have drained, usually between august and october, the crawfish are underground as rice is harvested. the fields are then reflooded to create a crawfish pond, and female crawfish will start coming out of their burrows with babies – about 400 to 900 – in tow. as the crawfish mature, harvest can begin as early as november and continues throughout the winter until it’s time to drain the pond again and plant more rice. Pigue, a commercial farmer who started Delta in 2001 after cooking out of a “shack” to high demand, once farmed his own crawfish in the rice fields just behind the building, and Duke hopes Pigue will do it again next season. Pigue’s boat, complete with a mechanism to push it through the flooded fields, sits expectantly at the edge of the parking lot. “they’ll set traps every 8 feet or so – i think he’s got 26 acres he’s planning on farming,” Duke explains. “he could probably get about 16,000 pounds out of that, which isn’t a lot, but it’ll help.” since Delta doesn’t currently farm crawfish, Duke gets about 10 deliveries of crawfish tuesday through Friday from eunice, louisiana, and each insulated truck carries anywhere from 2,000 to 9,000 pounds. Duke has his crew unload the tiny crustaceans onto pallets in the hangarlike area behind the main building and hose them off while the vat fills with water. two 35-pound sacks fit in each basket; the vat features aerators that clean the crawfish over the course of a few hours; they can stay in the water up to 24 hours for purging, which clears the digestive tract for customers squeamish about that little brown line you find in crawfish (and shrimp). after they’ve been cleaned, the crawfish are dumped out onto a few tables and divided into two groups before they can be sold: dead and alive. there are nearly 60 species of crawfish native to arkansas, according to the arkansas game and Fish commission. louisiana has 39, while missouri has at least 35 (there are about 350 known nationwide), but only a handful are used for human consumption; the rest are too small. crawfish are also known by many names: crayfish, crawdads, mudbugs or even yabbies (in australia). it’s mostly a regional preference: the term crawfish is used most often in the Deep south, specifically Inspired Local Food Culture
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New Orleans, as well as in the Northeast, while crawdad is preferred throughout much of Kentucky, Illinois, Missouri and Arkansas. Crayfish appears in northern Midwestern states like Michigan, Minnesota and Wisconsin, as well as the Northeast. The different names don’t denote different species or sizes – just your hometown.
either going to add on to [the main building] or add another building on the other side of the parking lot, just for boil items only, to take some of the pressure off this kitchen. On a Friday or Saturday night, there’s usually a two-hour wait.”
“Those of us who work on crayfish professionally have a saying: Crayfish eat everything and everything eats crayfish,” laughs Bob DiStefano, a resource scientist and stream ecologist at the Missouri Department of Conservation (MDC).
New Orleans native Sam Kogos often finds himself trying to reassure people who have had bad crawfish experiences to give them another shot at Riverbend Restaurant & Bar, his Cajun restaurant in Richmond Heights, Missouri.
More than 200 animals have been documented as preying on crawfish in North America, including humans, and crawfish themselves prey on species in nearly every level of the food chain, from microorganisms in the water to fish.
“If you’re trying them for the first time, a boil would be the best way so you could really see what they’re like,” Kogos says. “The problem is, depending on who’s doing the boil, sometimes they just don’t do it right.”
“They inhabit pretty much any aquatic environment that we have in [Missouri]: surface streams, lakes, ponds, reservoirs, wetlands, underground streams,” DiStefano says. One of the largest species in North America is native to the White River basin (DiStefano points out that crawfish don’t observe state boundaries, so many species are native to water systems in both Missouri and Arkansas, or Arkansas and Louisiana), which includes northern Arkansas and Table Rock Lake, a man-made lake and reservoir near Branson.
Kogos says a good boil starts with just the right amount of salt – for 70 pounds of crawfish, he’ll use five or six 26-ounce canisters. He’ll add other seasonings, citrus, garlic, celery and more to the water until it hits a rolling boil, and then add the crawfish and let them cook 10 to 15 minutes, until they start to float. After five to six minutes floating, Kogos says to “douse ‘em with a bunch of ice” to stop the boiling and let the water become lukewarm, about 20 minutes. “If you don’t, the shell gets mushy, and it’s just a big ol’ mess,” he says.
This longpincered crawfish can grow up to 6 or 7 inches in length – Louisiana’s most popular, the red swamp crawfish, is usually around 2¼ to 4¾ inches long – and in Missouri, anyone with a valid fishing license can harvest up to 150 of them a day at Table Rock. The MDC says the most productive months for catching longpincered crawfish are May, June and July, and again in September and October.
“It’s not rocket science,” he continues. “You do the seasoning right, soak them and don’t overcook them, and they should come out fine.” On Riverbend’s menu, Kogos and his cousin, executive chef Steve Daney, use crawfish tails in Creole étouffée, crawfish Creole, crawfish and corn bisque, and specials of crawfish bread and crawfish enchiladas topped with the bisque.
For Delta Crawfish, the season only lasts from January to July, and its roadside restaurant, The Cajun Café, is closed the other six months of the year. This made it a bit difficult for Duke to find employees, until he connected with Agape House of Paragould, which helps women transition from rehab with life skills and employment. (Delta also works with Shepherd’s Fold ministry, a similar program for men.)
They host classic seafood boils once a month during the early part of the year, through May, with all the fixins’ – traditionally corn, potatoes, onions, garlic and sausage – and offer their expertise for private parties, as well. Kogos thinks crawfish are gaining in popularity in the Midwest because so many people have personal connections to Louisiana, whether they went to Tulane University in New Orleans or have family who live there. St. Louis’ ties to New Orleans go back to the pre-Revolutionary War era, thanks to trading routes along the Mississippi River; New Orleans was founded by the French in 1718, St. Louis in 1764, and both had significant Spanish influence, as well.
“I’ve been down that road myself, and I think it’s a good thing for [people] to get back into society and feel like they’re a part of something bigger than themselves,” Duke says. “It’s like a small family. This is not a career job for any of them, but it is a stepping stone to better things.” The Cajun Café serves up everything from frogs’ legs, oysters and crawfish to steak, alligator po’boys and catfish. One of the most popular menu items is the chicken and sausage gumbo, which he credits to longtime employee and general manager Jahmi Stevens. “That would probably be her least favorite [dish] because so much goes into it,” Duke laughs. “But she’s very proud of it at the same time. All the recipes and everything on the menu – it’s Jahmi and Ron [Pigue]. People keep coming back because there’s no other place around here that’s gonna do it like we do.” When Pigue sold Duke the restaurant and wholesale operation, part of the deal was that Duke would grow Delta Crawfish’s legacy, a promise he plans to keep. So far, he’s added beer and wine to The Cajun Café’s in-house menu and greatly expanded distribution routes – right now, Delta supplies crawfish to Missouri restaurants and wholesalers in St. Louis, Springfield, Branson, Cape Girardeau, Festus, Dexter, Sikeston and Perryville. In Illinois, you can find its crawfish in Carbondale, Edwardsville, Troy, Vandalia and Collinsville, among other cities, as well as in Tennessee, Kentucky, Mississippi and across Arkansas. “I see a Delta Crawfish in Jonesboro [in the next five years] for sure, maybe a full-fledged restaurant by that point,” Duke says. “This place will probably be a lot bigger – I’m
The Kansas City metropolitan area, on the other hand, doesn’t have as many historical ties to the Big Easy, but Carlos Falcon, chef-owner of Jarocho in Kansas City, Kansas, still gets his hands on the little critters. Fresh fish and seafood is flown in every other day, and sometimes daily, to supply the Mexican seafood restaurant, where Falcon serves dishes like fire-grilled seasonal fish and octopus in its ink, as well as daily specials. This past April, Falcon featured a soft-shell crawfish special with chipotle sauce. Like crabs, crawfish molt, casting off their hard shells as they grow. In the South, this happens in April and June. “First I tried soft-shell crab, and then somebody introduced me to soft-shell crawfish – and, oh man, is that just delicious,” Falcon says. “Just crawfish by itself – regular crawfish – it takes a lot of work to get those little tails out, but they’re very, very tasty. But when you are presented soft-shell [crawfish] and you can eat the whole thing, it changes the way you see crawfish.” This spring, Falcon sourced soft-shell crawfish from Louisiana for the special at Jarocho, first battering them in a rice flour mixture and then flash-frying them for just four or five seconds. “The best way to cook them is to flash-fry them,” Falcon Inspired Local Food Culture
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At Eventbrite http://bit.ly/1w1c0e2 or Ollie’s Local | 3044 Gillham, KCMO | 816.541.3961
says. “It’s so simple. When you fry it, it just becomes this bright red beautiful color, so [for presentation] you don’t need much garnish – and it’s tasty by itself. It has that umami flavor that you cannot find in shrimp, lobster or crabs. It’s a very special flavor.” Falcon served the soft-shell crawfish with a spicy and smoky sauce made with puréed chipotles, jalapeños and housemade mayonnaise – sort of a Mexican take on remoulade, popular in the south of Mexico. The daily special was a smash hit, selling out before end of business. “A lot of people have had crawfish in general, but when they discover soft-shell crawfish, they’re just amazed by it,” Falcon says. “Every time we bring it in, it just lasts the day we get it.” Chef Scott Munsterman also extolls the virtues of crawfish at Shorty Pants Lounge in Osage Beach, Missouri – at Lake of the Ozarks mile marker 21.2 for those of you on a boat. At Shorty Pants, Munsterman features crawfish étouffée, plus a Creole quesadilla with peppers, onions, shrimp, andouille sausage, crawfish tail meat and pepper Jack cheese, seasoned with house blackening spice on a sun-dried tomato tortilla. Over the summer, he puts on weekly boils on Tuesdays and offers crawfish boils for private parties or birthdays. “Crawfish is always light, it’s good for you – it’s good protein – [and] it’s not offered at a lot of restaurants,” Munsterman says. “It goes well with Creole-Cajun cuisine. Most of the people from the Ozarks know what a crawfish is – they’re in our streams and rivers, so it’s pretty popular around here.”
Back in Paragould, The Cajun Café’s modest dining room is decorated with rustic wood, deer and fish taxidermy – trophies caught by Pigue and his friends – and light fixtures adorned with fishing nets. Unlike city restaurants, The Cajun Café is usually busiest when it’s raining because bad weather means days off for the surrounding farming community. Big chemical companies and farms in the area will put on boils for employees and customers when they know it’s going to rain, too. “When we set up a boil, we can take our cooking trailer or make it more personal: take a little canopy and a couple of pots and burners, just depending on how much we need to cook,” Duke says. “A lot of people like to gather ‘round and watch everything get cooked and sit around having a few cold ones, you know? Enjoying life.” For your own boil, Duke says to bring water to a boil and cook one sack of crawfish – 35 pounds – for just about 10 minutes, then drain it, dump the crawfish in a cooler and add “2 pounds of seasoning on there and shake it up real good,” he says. “That way it steams in there. Open it up in 10 minutes, shut it [again] and you’re ready to go.” During a lunch rush at The Cajun Café, a middle-aged couple excitedly tells their server that they’re originally from Louisiana but drove over from Paris, Arkansas, northwest of Little Rock. “I forget who told us about you – I went to Missouri one time, and they put coleslaw on my pulled pork!” the man says, exasperated. The server says not to worry; she hopes Delta will live up to their expectations. When their food arrives, they seem pleasantly surprised by how much they like the fried shrimp, though it could use some butter for dipping, they say. Meanwhile, men in work clothes constantly stream in and out of the dining room, many washing their hands in a metal washbasin attached to the wall before sitting down to order. “It’s just fun [work] because people will come in and tell you they’re so excited to pick up their crawfish and take ’em home, have a big boil once a year, have a big family reunion,” Duke says amid the buzz. “It brings people together – that’s what I like. People don’t come together enough anymore, I don’t think. Especially families. To me, it’s kinda like Thanksgiving dinner.” Delta Crawfish and The Cajun Café, 4460 Highway 412 E, Paragould, Arkansas, 870.335.2555, deltacrawfish.com Jarocho, 719 Kansas Ave., Kansas City, Kansas, 913.281.7757, jarochokc.com Riverbend Restaurant & Bar, 1059 S. Big Bend Blvd., Richmond Heights, Missouri, 314.664.8443, riverbendbar.com Shorty Pants Lounge, 1680 Autumn Lane, Osage Beach, Missouri, 573.302.1745, shortypantslounge.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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Join us July 15th for the third event of the season Enjoy screenings of Feast TV, as well as presentations and demonstrations from chefs and artisans featured on the show. DAte:
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what to make for the fourth of july
Written by Sarah Kloepple
chili dogs. Hot dogs are synonymous
September 13-25, 2016
November 15-27, 2016
with summer cookouts. There are endless possibilities when it comes to creating perfectly tasty hot dogs for the Fourth of July, but we suggest spicing things up – literally. To make a handful of chili dogs, you only need a package of hot dogs plus a pound of lean ground beef, chopped onions, ketchup and chili powder for that spicy kick.
red, white and blue quinoa salad. For a low-carb summer side dish, we recommend a colorful quinoa salad. Quinoa – a seed that can be prepared similarly to whole grains like rice or barley – is a healthy substitute that’s not only high in protein but also takes less time to cook than other whole grains. To make the dish festive for Fourth of July, simply throw in diced blueberries and strawberries and toss everything together in a light vinaigrette. red, white and blue chocolate-covered strawberries. Chocolate-covered
strawberries are a fun and easy hand-held dessert. Dip your strawberries in melted white chocolate instead of milk or dark, and then lightly dip the bottom third in blue sprinkles. Place them on parchment paper and transfer to the refrigerator to cool for a few hours.
December 6-18, 2016
January 17-29, 2017
grilled chicken. When it comes to the Fourth of July, there’s nothing wrong with keeping it simple. In between the day at the pool and a night of glittering fireworks, load the grill with a couple of boneless chicken breasts for a reliable entrée. If you want to add some fun flavor, glaze your chicken with brown sugar or marinate it in a mix of lime, beer and cilantro for a light and crisp summery zing. Cook each side for about nine minutes until the juices turn clear. parmesan-roasted corn. There are a million and one ways to serve corn in the summertime, whether it’s grilled and charred or mixed into a creamy salad. We suggest roasting your corn-on-the-cob with Parmesan cheese. For each ear of corn, brush on a thin layer of mayonnaise before sprinkling on a generous helping of Parmesan. Add a dash of salt and pepper, wrap it in aluminum foil for the grill, and you’ll soon be enjoying some cheesy-corn goodness.
February 7-19, 2017
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strawberry mojito. Give this refreshing summer drink a holiday twist by muddling together a simple syrup, mint leaves, chopped strawberries and sliced lime wedges. Pour white rum over the mixture and stir it well. To complete the Fourth of July theme, top off each cocktail with a handful of blueberries – not only will it look extra festive, it’ll also taste extra fruity and cool.
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PeoPle flock to one of Missouri’s oldest ice creaM Parlors for scooPs, sundaes and a taste of suMMer – but first, they have to get in line WRITTEn by HEATHER RISkE
|
PHoTogRAPHy by TRAvIS DunCAn
t 1:30pm, yellow school buses roll up like clockwork. For a brief moment, a red-and-white-striped awning peeks out before another school bus pulls up to the curb and blocks it from sight. A line of chattering kids in neon T-shirts already stretches from the front door of Central Dairy down the block and around the corner. Inside the old-fashioned ice cream parlor, creaky wooden booths are filled with families devouring waffle cones stuffed with Rocky Road, plastic pint containers packed to the brim with black walnut ice cream and banana splits large enough to easily feed four. The line moves quickly and efficiently past the counter and outside through the door at the other end, where tiny hands
are already sticky with bright green mint-chocolate chip ice cream. “Well, this is bus season,” says general manager Chris Hackman with a laugh, surveying the crowds outside the historic dairy in Jefferson City, Missouri. Each year, Central Dairy braces itself for “bus season” – the weeks from mid-April to the end of May when students from around the state pile into the ice cream parlor during annual field trips to the Missouri State Capitol. These days, the line of bright-eyed kids stretching outside the door has become a familiar sight at the iconic ice cream parlor, which continues to draw visitors from around the country each year. Inspired Local Food Culture
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The original Central Dairy Co. was founded by Dot Sappington and Clyde Shepard in 1920 about a half hour away, in the heart of Columbia, Missouri. Initially, items were produced in Columbia and sold there and in Jefferson City, but in 1932, Sappington sold his share of the Columbia business to his son and moved to Jefferson City to start a new Central Dairy at 610 Madison St. in 1933. The now-famous ice cream parlor was installed in the front of the building, with the production facility in the rear. Although both outposts used the same, now-iconic red-and-white logo and had many other similarities, they operated as separate companies. Phone-book records even indicate a third branch for a “home-owned” Central Dairy in Fulton, Missouri, throughout the 1940s, which might have been started by another Sappington. Central Dairy was one of the most prominent dairies in the area in the first half of the 20th century, even throughout the Depression. The Columbia facility continued to house Central Dairy’s sales and processing operations until 1959, when the business was sold to the Meadow Gold Dairy Co. Now home to an appliance store, a restaurant and lofts, the Columbia building remains on the National Register of Historic Places. In 1927, Central Dairy moved its dairy operations into the building at 1104 E. Broadway, and the words “Central Dairy” still appear in the terra cotta band above the main entranceway. In the early 1950s, longtime employees Leo and Tulah Hackman bought the Jefferson City branch of Central Dairy from Sappington. Tulah had started working in the dairy’s office in 1936, with Leo joining shortly after as a route driver. The Hackman family has been involved with the business ever since – Leo and Tulah’s son Gale ran the company for several years before passing it down to his son Chris. Gale says it was rewarding to work with his parents – Tulah even continued working at Central Dairy until a few months before she passed away at age 91. “Her dedication to her work – and to the company – was an inspiration to me, as well as all the employees,” Gale says. “Many employees started working here straight out of high school and stayed till they retired. When jobs opened up, many times there would be a line of prospective employees out the door and down the block.” Gale continued to work with his son at Central Dairy until 2010, when he retired, and he says he’s proud of the way Chris has moved the company forward. “When Christopher was in about the fourth grade, he had to write a report on what he wanted to be when he grew up,” Gale says. “He reported that he wanted to work with his dad at Central Dairy and be the president of the company ‘when his dad said he could.’” Central Dairy was acquired by Prairie Farms Dairy, based in Carlinville, Illinois, in 2007, but Chris stayed on as general manager (a title he also holds for the mid-Missouri division of Prairie Farms). He insists that not much changed after the takeover. “Instead of being a small, regional player, now we’re part of a multibillion-dollar company,” Chris says. “It’s allowed us to expand distribution and add more jobs while still maintaining the same formula and the same process that we’ve always had.”
P H oT
To this day, Central Dairy continues to use the same ingredients and formulas as it has for the past 80 years. This January, Central Dairy ceased operations on its longtime home-delivery service, but its range of products – milk, ice cream, sherbet, orange juice, Chip ‘n’ Dip, cottage cheese and sour cream – are still available in grocery stores throughout mid-Missouri.
oS C o u RT E Sy CENT RAL
Central Dairy mainly sources from the Dairy Farmers of America cooperative, which supplies the business with fresh milk from local dairy farms within a 60-mile radius of the Jefferson City plant. Milk is Central Dairy’s highest-volume product, and the company produces five varieties: 1 percent,
DA I R y
2 percent, skim, Vitamin D and chocolate. The leftover cream skimmed off of 1 percent, 2 percent and skim milks is used to make ice cream mixes, which are pasteurized the night before production to give the mix a fuller body. The next morning, the ice cream crew will freeze the mix in whatever flavor and size is needed – Central produces everything from a 4-ounce cup up to a 3-gallon tub. The team might run vanilla in the morning or butter-pecan in the afternoon, depending on what flavors are running low.
ice cream loaded with chocolate-coated cookies, chocolate truffles and stripes of rich fudge that Chris created in 1996. Gale says his father’s optimistic nature helped set an early foundation for Central Dairy’s expansive lineup of flavors.
In all, Central Dairy produces 50 flavors of ice cream, including 27 traditional – black walnut, cookies-and-cream and strawberry, to name a few – and 14 premium flavors, including Muddy River (brownie batter ice cream with fudge ribbons and white chocolate flakes) and Bear Claw (dark chocolate ice cream with chocolate-covered cashews and caramel ribbons). Among University of Missouri alums, Central Dairy might be best known for Tiger Tracks, vanilla
Central Dairy also makes four frozen yogurts (white chocolate-almond, vanilla, strawberry-cheesecake and banana-peach), six sherbets (raspberry, lime, orange, pineapple, lemon and rainbow) and four low-fat ice cream flavors. Despite that wide range of flavors, vanilla is by far the company’s most popular – it accounts for as much as 45 percent of the ice cream Central Dairy produces. Hackman says its popularity is largely due to its versatility: Vanilla is
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“We had a meeting with a restaurant owner who requested a new ice cream flavor,” he says. “My dad said, ‘Sure, we can make that!’ When we got back to the car, Dad turned to me and said, ‘We can do that, can’t we?’ And, of course, we did.”
used as the base for sundaes, banana splits and floats at the ice cream parlor. Inside the parlor, a line of customers snakes past freezer tubs of a few dozen flavors, each listed on a simple, large red menu behind the counter. Central’s ice creams and sherbets are available in a cone, dish, malt, shake, sundae or old-fashioned ice cream soda. A few sundae specials and splits are also on offer, including the banana split, a longtime favorite. It starts with a whole banana sliced down the middle and loaded with three large scoops each of chocolate, vanilla and strawberry ice cream. It’s finished with a drizzle of marshmallow, chocolate sauce and nuts; not for the faint of heart, it comes served in a disposable plastic boat with two full sheets of wax paper underneath to soak up every last drop. Although still one of the best deals in town, prices have
changed a bit over the years; a single-flavor cone will run you $2, compared to a nickel back in the day. Small scoops are served in simple plastic cups and large scoops and sundaes in red-and-white pint containers – Central Dairy hasn’t won fans for being ostentatious.
can be spotted everywhere from the menu and ice cream cups to the sign hanging over the glass window into Central’s parlor. (In 1971, the dairy scaled up and moved its production facility – originally located in a 6,000-square-foot building connected to the ice cream parlor – across the street.)
In fact, inside the parlor itself, not much has changed during the past 80 years. Framed photos of Leo and Tulah Hackman greet diners upon entering the building, and the walls are lined with the building’s original white tile, with a strip of seafoam green tile lining the floor. A few lucky guests can grab a seat at an old-fashioned wooden booth or 1950s diner-style Formica-and-chrome table. A silver air-conditioning duct runs the length of the ceiling (though Chris says several outspoken regulars have politely suggested he paint it red to match Central’s classic cursive logo). That logo, which once graced the company’s delivery cars – and still does for a few – as well as the Columbia facility,
Chris has good reason for not changing anything. A few years ago, he replaced the wooden cabinets behind the ice cream counter. Immediately, he was flooded with complaints from longtime customers.
hours. The parlor opens at 8am every day but Sunday (when it opens at 10am), and closes by 6pm each day. Its menu consists of just two savory offerings – a “hot dog sandwich” and Polish sausage sandwich – but it’s not unusual to find the ice cream parlor buzzing early in the morning.
“We’ll have people who will be waiting when we open at 8am because every year they come to get their ice cream before they go to state track,” Chris says. “We have regular customers who come in almost on a daily basis to get fountain sodas, and we have customers who come in for a certain flavor once a week or once a month. It’s a happy “The doors were actually falling off of the old cabinets, place; it’s where you go to enjoy a good product and have so we needed to replace them,” he says, shaking his head. “[Customers] were like, ‘Well, we like the old ones.’ I try not to fun with friends. It’s somewhere you want to return to over and over.” change very much because people really don’t like it.” Tradition has long been the cornerstone of Central Dairy, which still keeps its original – and somewhat unusual –
Central Dairy, 610 Madison St., Jefferson City, Missouri, 573.635.6148, centraldairy.biz Inspired Local Food Culture
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Feast Magazine is hosting a food truck event of each month in one of Kansas City’s beautiful parks. We’ll highlight prominent fountains throughout the city, while guests enjoy food from some of the city’s most popular food trucks.
p.m. - 7:30 p.m. 0 :3 5 4 1 ly ju y, a d s r thu rMaN Park O G IN IN ta N U O F D N NOrthla PartICIPatING FOOD trUCkS ON JUly 14 Bochi Cheeesy Pops
Plantain District Fungal Fusion
Boo-Yah Ohana’s Shaved Ice
 Â? Â?Â
Feast oF Fountains schedule - 5:30 p.m. - 7:30 p.m. thursday, august 11: Spirit of Freedom Fountain thursday, september 8: The Concourse Fountain in Kessler Park
receive a free mist twst with every food purchase
O
ur winery is surrounded by acres of vineyards overlooking the
Missouri river valley, thus making our location a step above the rest. We have unique venues for Wedding Ceremonies, Receptions, Corporate Events, Reunions, Birthday and Bachelorette Parties, etc‌nothing is too small or too large. Just give us a call. We look forward to helping host your next special event. 636-987-2400
ting Benefit y of it C the ins founta n. io t founda
FOOD
UN • MUSIC • F
Open July 4th!
10:30 - 5:30 Free Live Music Featuring Guitarist, Dennis Schilligo Food Truck Available or bring your picnic
Contagious Concert!! Saturday, July 16th • 6:00 - 9:00 p.m. Call for reservations and details! www.sugarcreekwines.com | info: bmiller@sugarcreekwines.com
125 Boone Country Lane Defiance, MO 63341 Open Every Day 10:30am – 5:30pm
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Live Music Every Weekend Afternoon Fabulous Evening Concerts in our New Hilltop Pavilion
THE MAJORITY OF ST. LOUIS’ TOP CHEFS
crownlinen.com
HAVE ONE THING IN COMMON …
Tim Williams, CEO, Crown Linen with Kevin Nashan, Chef/Owner, Sidney Street Café, Peacemaker
They share the goal of providing their customers with a memorable dining experience. Whether it’s an anniversary, special occasion or a simple evening out, you want the perfect table, in the perfect setting, to achieve a memorable experience. For those in the restaurant and hospitality industry, this is exactly what they strive to deliver every day – the perfect experience.
industries with a wide array of products from fine dining and kitchen linens, full service hotel linens, to customized branded apparel.
For Tim Williams, President of locally owned Crown Linen Service, he gets a sense of pride watching a chef and his or her staff successfully execute a busy dinner service. “Knowing St. Louis’ most well-known chefs present their incredibly unique, award-winning creations on our linens
“We take a vital part of our customers’ operations and try to make it worry-free,” says Williams, whose greatgrandmother steered the company through the Great Depression. “Our goal is to help our customers make the best possible impression with their customers.”
OUR GOAL IS TO HELP OUR CUSTOMERS MAKE THE BEST POSSIBLE IMPRESSION WITH THEIR CUSTOMERS. is very gratifying” said Williams. “The restaurant and hospitality industry is extremely demanding; everyone must bring their ‘A’ game every day and we are no different” Williams continued. In 1891, nine years before the St. Louis Cardinals were known as the Cardinals, a small shirt-starching business in Mexico, Missouri, opened its doors. Today, five generations later and still family owned, Crown Linen Service turns 125 years old. No longer starching shirts, Crown Linen is now a complete linen rental service, providing the restaurant and hospitality
Rarely will a person acknowledge a crisp table cloth, bright linens or a plush, soft towel. However, if they are not right, they easily standout and may not allow a business to make the right impression. Crown Linen Service has a “Proven Process” to ensure that each piece of linen, totaling more than half a million pounds processed weekly, meets the quality standards their customers demand. Williams, who started in the family business at the age of 14, continued, “the responsibility of providing our customers with the best possible service falls on each and every Crown Linen employee. It is all about attention to detail and placing our customers’ customers first.” Crown Linen places an emphasis on relationships and working closely with clients to ensure their needs are not just met, but exceeded. The face of the company is the Customer Service Reps who are knowledgeable, helpful and know the staff inside their accounts by name. These team members are more than just drivers or delivery people because they work with customers to build on, and reinforce the trust placed in Crown.
DID YOU KNOW: A SADDLE: Oddest thing found in incoming soiled linens. 500,000: Number of pounds of linen processed per week. 60+ YEARS: Longest tenured employee. NEW YORK CITY: Largest customer base outside of Missouri during the 1920’s.
With a staff that includes members with 15, 20 and even 30 years with the company, the team is in place to make sure the next 125 years are just as successful. For Tim and for the rest of the Crown Linen team, there is great pride in creating and continuing superior relationships with the customers they serve, who have built their businesses by serving the people of Missouri and Illinois, just like Crown did 125 years ago, and continues to do so today. Give Crown Linen a call today to find out what they can do for your business. CONTACT US: 800.733.8090 — St. Louis/Southern Ill. Area 322 East Industrial Drive, Columbia, Illinois 62236 — Central Missouri 215 S. Jefferson, Mexico, Missouri, 65265
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The following eight chefs aren’t well-known for burgers – they don’t own burger joints and, in some cases, don’t even serve burgers in their restaurants. Of course, that doesn’t mean they don’t have go-to burger recipes for off-the-clock cookouts with friends and family. We asked these chefs to share their favorite burger recipes, plus what they recommend sipping them with this summer. Written by bethany Christo and Liz MiLLer
Find the recipe for The Sweaty Texan Burger from City Butcher in Springfield, Missouri, on p. 87. photo by starboard & port Creative
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If you don’t have a nearby international or specialty market, substitute chipotle peppers for morita chiles. Concha buns can be found at most Mexican grocery stores or bakeries, as well as at many international markets. Serves | 4 | SPeciaL Sauce (yields 4 cups)
24 2 2 1
pickled morita chiles cups mayonnaise cups ketchup tsp Mexican oregano
burgeSaS
20 10 2 2 2 2 to 4
oz ground beef oz ground bacon tsp salt tsp sugar tsp chile flakes tsp Manteca lard (or another fat, like vegetable shortening) oil (optional, for cooking on stovetop) 8 slices American cheese
to Serve
4 concha buns 4 pickled jalapeños, sliced 4 large leaves bibb or butter lettuce
| Preparation – Special Sauce | In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients. Refrigerate until ready to use.
| Preparation – Burgesas | In a bowl, combine ground beef and ground bacon. Form into 8-ounce patties. In a separate bowl, make dry brine of salt, sugar and chile flakes, in a 1-1-1 ratio. Season patties to taste, about ½ teaspoon per side. In a sauté pan, add lard and patties. Place in a wood-fired oven and cook for 4 minutes per side. If cooking on stovetop, heat oil in a sauté pan over high heat. Once oil is hot, add patties and cook until brown crust forms, about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and cook 2 more minutes. Flip, then cook another 4 minutes. Near end of cooking the second sides, melt cheese on burgers.
by Patrick ryan Burgers don’t have to be complicated – just ask Port Fonda chef-owner Patrick Ryan. “Don’t overthink it,” Ryan recommends. “So many people mess around with different cuts and different ratios pursuing perfection. Some of the best burgers I’ve had in my life have been store-bought ground beef seasoned really well with salt and black pepper and grilled on a Weber Grill outside.” That honest and straightforward approach to food is what draws crowds to Port Fonda’s Kansas City and Lawrence, Kansas, locations, where Ryan serves Mexicaninspired fare made with Missouri accents. Ryan says he likes the simplicity of the classic burger. “No fancy bun, no fancy cheese, no fancy ketchup, etc.” When asked to elaborate, he lists classic backyard burger elements: grilled ground beef patty, white bread burger bun, American cheese, Heinz ketchup, yellow mustard, iceberg lettuce, onion, tomato, pickles and sometimes mayo. However, he does like to spice things up on occasion with his Burgesa Port Fonda, which is served during brunch at both locations and at lunch in Lawrence. It’s not overly complicated – the patty is an 80-20 mix of two parts ground beef and one part ground bacon, topped with American cheese, a pickled-chile based “special sauce” and pickled jalapeños. Along with its “perfect combination of greasy, spicy, salty, sweet,” the burger gives you a sense of Port Fonda’s menu, especially in the bun. Concha are traditional Mexican sweet rolls topped with flour and sugar and baked in a spiraling pattern resembling a shell, or concha in Spanish. They’re often eaten on their own for breakfast, but at Port Fonda they bookend the Burgesa. “I really wanted to have a burger on our menu, but I knew we needed to do a something a little different with it,” Ryan says. “We were getting conchas from Farm to Market Bread Co. [in Kansas City] for occasional brunch specials, and I figured the sweet(ish) roll would be great.” Ryan slices a concha roll into halves and sandwiches the grilled and wood oven-finished bacon-beef patty between them. Burgers might not have to be complicated, but at Port Fonda, they definitely have to have a bit of Mexican flavor. –B.C. Port Fonda; 4141 Pennsylvania Ave., Westport, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.216.6462; 900 New Hampshire St., Lawrence, Kansas, 785.856.2535; portfonda.com
| To Serve | Toast concha buns and spread about 1 tablespoon special sauce on both halves. Add patties to buns and top each with about 5 jalapeño slices and 1 leaf lettuce. Photo by Landon vonderSchMidt
michelada “it’s not exactly a beer pairing, but the burger goes really well with a Michelada,” ryan says. “We use Free State brewing co.’s golden ale, out of Lawrence, kansas, [with] our hot sauce mix, lime and ice, served in a chilled glass with a salted rim.”
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by brian Hardesty A burger will soon grace the menu at Filipino-inspired Guerrilla Street Food, and chef-owner Brian Hardesty says the reason is simple: “Burgers are my favorite food.”
it to be more readily available in St. Louis, but it’s not [right now]. You can find it at a couple of different local farmers’ markets and in a bunch of Asian grocery stores.”
Hardesty, who co-owns Guerrilla with chef Joel Crespo, says the burger will be called the All City Burger. Its 3-ounce patty will be made with a blend of local ground brisket and chuck, seared smashburger-style and topped with housemade Thai chile-Jack cheese, pickled mustard seeds, mustard greens, pickled cucumbers and a black sesame seedpotato bun. At home, Hardesty prefers a different protein for burgers.
His favorite burger patty is made with ground goat shoulder seasoned with salt, black pepper, chile flakes and coriander and cooked on a charcoal grill. He adds a few hickory chips to the coals for an extra-smoky flavor and then quickly sears the burgers for a mid-rare to medium temp. “The crust that instantly forms picks up some of that hickory smoke,” Hardesty says. “It’s sweet and smoky.”
“I’ve been really into goat meat lately,” Hardesty says. “It’s [one of] the most popular farmed [animals] in the world. I want
While the ½-pound patties are resting but still warm, he piles on from-scratch romesco sauce, crispy bacon, pickled red onions and
goat cheese. “I think it’s cool to use goat meat and cheese together, just like using chicken and eggs like we do at Guerrilla,” he says. “What grows together goes together.” Once the toppings have melted together, he finishes the burger with fresh salad greens. For the bun, Hardesty dips store-bought potato buns in rendered bacon fat and then dunks them in a bowl of black sesame seeds before toasting them on the grill. “It’s a potato bun, so it’s already going to absorb a lot, so we toast the bun on the grill for texture and added crunch,” Hardesty says. “It holds up well against all of these different flavors, and it’s not going to fall apart.” This burger, which he calls A Long Time a Goat, In a Galaxy Far, Far Away, is his
favorite at the moment, but what he really loves about burgers is the versatility, calling them a “blank canvas.” Simple or complex, he says they personify summer. “When you have a barbecue in your backyard, it’s that idea – it’s that feeling that it gives you,” Hardesty says. “The flavors are great, but it’s also nostalgic. It’s comfort food that makes me think of my childhood, of going to a pool party and somebody’s grilling burgers. [You] might burn the crap out of them, but you still love them because you’re outside and having a good time.” –L.M. Guerrilla Street Food, 3559 Arsenal St., Tower Grove East, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.529.1328, guerrillastreetfood.com
the civil life brewing co.’s german wheat “it’s light and crisp and has a good amount of flavor to it, and it’s really refreshing and keeps your palate clean as you’re drinking it with the burger,” Hardesty says. you can order the Civil Life brewing Co.’s German Wheat on draft at bars and restaurants around the st. Louis area, including the brewery’s tasting room in tower Grove south, where you can also pick up a growler to take home.
Serves | 6 | Pickled Red OniOns
1 1 1 ½ 1 1
red onion, julienned cup rice wine vinegar Tbsp kosher salt Tbsp sugar tsp chile flakes bay leaf
ROmescO
4 ¼ 1 4 2 1 1
roasted red peppers cup ground almonds tomato dried apricots cloves garlic tsp paprika Tbsp olive oil splash rice wine vinegar sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Patties
3 2 1 2 2
lbs ground goat shoulder Tbsp salt Tbsp freshly ground black pepper tsp ground coriander tsp chile flakes
assembly
12 pieces cooked peppered bacon and rendered bacon fat, divided 1 2.3-oz jar black sesame seeds (will cover more than 12 buns) 6 potato buns 12 Tbsp fresh goat cheese, seasoned with freshly ground black pepper 18 leaves fresh salad greens
| Preparation – Pickled Red Onions | Reserve red onion in a large mixing bowl.
by debbie GOld About three years ago, chef Debbie Gold helped develop the menu for Red Door Woodfired Grill in Leawood, Kansas, including researching how to make the very best hamburger patties possible. That research, combined with Gold’s 30 years of cooking experience, led the James Beard award-winning chef to create what she considers the ideal hamburger. Gold’s burger recipe is no-frills, simply combining a 70-30 protein-to-fat ratio of nearly equal parts beef sirloin, short rib and brisket in the patty. “The luxury cuts of meat aren’t necessarily what you’re looking for – like a filet mignon or a rib eye – you’re looking for a different mouthfeel when you’re eating a burger,” Gold says. For burger patties, Gold looks for cuts like sirloin or brisket. “Brisket adds a ton of that beefy flavor you’re looking for because it’s a muscle the cow uses every day,” she says. “The short rib is adding a lot of that flavor, as well, but it’s providing a lot of the fat, which you’re not getting from the sirloin or brisket.” Gold believes a burger should be perfectly juicy, so she cautions against overworking the meat. She employs a well-known chef cheat to ensure this doesn’t happen: taking full advantage of the freezer. “I take the grinder attachment, the blade, the [plate] – everything goes in the freezer, and the meat, too, you want it to be extremely chilled,” she says. “When the grinder is working, heat is created. When the meat gets warm, it starts getting pushed through the die rather than cut, which gives you a mushy texture .” Gold is straightforward with preparation (cast-iron pan, no added oil) and toppings – she’s content with a slice of cheese, some raw onion, Dijon mustard and a grocery store bun. “I’m a purist when it comes to a burger,” she says. –B.C. Serves | 4 | buRGeRs
8 oz beef sirloin, cut into 1-inch cubes 8 oz short rib, cut into 1-inch cubes 6 oz beef brisket, cut into 1-inch cubes sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
In a saucepot over medium-high heat, combine all remaining ingredients and bring to a boil, then take off heat. Allow mixture to cool for a couple of minutes, then pour over red onion. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.
tO seRve
| Preparation – Romesco | In the bowl
| Preparation – Burgers | Freeze entire grinder
of a food processor or blender, combine all ingredients except salt and pepper and purée; sauce should be a spreadable consistency. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
| Preparation – Patties | Heat a charcoal grill with hickory chips. In a large mixing bowl, mix all ingredients until combined. Form mixture into 6 8-ounce patties. Transfer patties to hot grill; cook to medium, 6 to 8 minutes total. Remove patties from grill and allow to rest for 3 to 4 minutes. | Assembly | While patties are resting, in a medium mixing bowl, add rendered bacon fat. In a separate mixing bowl, add black sesame seeds. Individually dip the tops of each bun into fat, then into sesame seeds. Toast on grill until golden. Lay out bottoms of sesame seed buns and place patties on top, then romesco sauce and pickled red onions. Stack peppered bacon strips, seasoned goat cheese and salad greens on top and serve.
4 brioche or egg buns 4 slices American cheese red onion, sliced into rings 4 slices tomato Dijon mustard, to taste
attachment, including blade and ¼-inch plate, for 10 minutes.
cinder block brewing’s block ipa “to me there is nothing better than a good iPa with a burger and fries,” Gold says. “i’m a simple eater, so adding too many condiments to my burger is an exception. block iPa has the right carbonation to cut through the richness of the meat and has a good balance between the malt, citrus and bitterness to clean your palate between each bite.”
On a sheet tray lined with parchment paper, lay out all cubed beef. Place in freezer for 10 minutes. Meat should be firm but not frozen through. Remove grinder and meat from freezer. Grind all meat together and mix gently to combine. Form into 6-ounce patties, making sure not to overwork meat. Heat a cast-iron pan over medium-high heat. Season patties with salt and pepper. Place in heated pan with no added oil. Let burgers cook until golden brown on 1 side, about 3 to 4 minutes. Flip and cook other sides for 3 to 4 minutes until golden brown.
| To Serve | Place burger on the bun and add remaining ingredients or garnishes of your choice. Serve. PHOTO By LAnDOn vOnDeRSCHMIDT
pHoTo by j. poLLACk pHoTogRApHy
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Serves | 4 | Pimento CheeSe (yields 1 quart)
3 1½ 1 1
by RobeRt SillS After the dinner rush, an exhausted Robert Sills perches on an overturned bucket in the kitchen of High Cotton in Charleston, South Carolina, hunched over so patrons in the dining room can’t see him. The New York-bred chef becomes less concerned with catching a diner’s gaze, though, as he greedily chows down on a quintessentially Southern burger – one the restaurant’s line cooks and chefs devoured each shift. “It was the spice from the pickled jalapeños mixed with the creamy pimento cheese mellowing that just a touch, then the smoked meat flavor over a good spongy bun, sopping up any of the juices that come out,” describes Sills, who has since moved to the Midwest to become executive chef at Savannah Grille in Lake Ozark, Missouri. “For me, in that kitchen, all these flavors were just so foreign and eyeopening. Eating that burger after a shift was just like, ‘I’ve never tasted spice, pickled peppers and cheese in this way; what have I been missing?’ It was humbling.” Not only did High Cotton introduce Sills to the best burger he’s ever eaten, but its legendary chef, Frank Lee, also inspired his cooking philosophy: to cherish the history of local food.
At Savannah Grille, Sills serves carefully crafted seafood and house-butchered meats alongside heirloom local produce. He applies that same attention to detail to the burger he eats off the clock, as well, using trimmings from rib eyes, filet mignons and strip steaks. He blends that into an 80-20 ratio and grinds it twice to break down the fat content and create a texture that holds all the juices and flavor within an 8-ounce patty. And, for Sills, it’s charbroil or bust: “If you’re going to source really good meat and take the time to double-grind it, charbroiling really enhances the perfect medium-temperature bite.” Sills tops the burger with melted pimento cheese and pickled jalapeños – both added while the burger cooks – and serves it on a brioche bun. You can’t order the burger at Savannah Grille, but if you’re at the bar at the right time, Sills might cook you a simpler version with house-smoked bacon, dill-horseradish pickles, cheese and housemade ketchup and mustard. –B.C. Savannah Grille, 1622 Horseshoe Bend Parkway, Lake Ozark, Missouri, 573.365.1777, savannahgrillerestaurant.com
logboat brewing co.’s bobber lager “i think the floral and spicy hops notes in this Vienna lager, released in early June, blend well with the roasted peppers and pickled and sweet flavors of the jalapeños and the cheese,” Sills says. “the malty finish will help cleanse the palate and ready it for the next bite.”
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online eXtRA
Visit feastmagazine.com for Sills’ recipe for from-scratch pickled jalapeños.
cups shredded aged Cheddar lbs cream cheese, softened roasted red pepper, peeled and diced roasted jalapeño, peeled, seeded and diced 2 Tbsp mayonnaise 1½ tsp Worcestershire sauce 10 dashes hot sauce sea salt and white pepper, to taste pinch cayenne or chile powder buRgeRS
2½ lbs beef trimmings from rib eye, strip and filet mignon cuts sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 jar sliced pickled jalapeños 4 brioche buns (to serve)
| Preparation – Pimento Cheese | In a mixing bowl, combine all ingredients and mix until incorporated. Refrigerate until ready to grill burgers. | Preparation – Burgers | Double-grind beef, starting with plate with larger holes and then smaller holes, and form into 8-ounce patties. Set oven on broil and place heavy sheet tray on rack while oven heats. Just before grilling, season patties with salt and pepper. Place patties on hot tray and cook 3 minutes on 1 side, or until good char develops. Flip over and cook another 3 minutes. During last minute of cooking, add 2 heaping spoonfuls pimento cheese and stud 5 to 7 pickled jalapeños into cheese for each burger. If cooking on a grill, add pimento cheese and jalapeño slices immediately after flipping. Let burgers rest on a resting rack for 5 to 10 minutes before placing on buns. Serve. PHOTO bY TRAvIS DuNCAN
logboat brewing co.’s bear hair
Serves | 6 | Ginger Juice
12 oz ginger root, cut into 2-inch pieces
“Bear Hair is a light and refreshing beer and has definite citrus notes, which I think really complement the fresh ginger and lime zest in the burger,” Huff-Kennon says. “It also has a little bit of a spicy finish, and that helps cut the sweetness of the dates and apricots.”
Lime-Cumin Vinaigrette
½ ½ ½ 8 1 1 1 1
cup olive oil cup apple cider vinegar cup granulated sugar juice of 2 limes cloves garlic tsp kosher salt tsp freshly ground black pepper tsp ground cumin tsp ground turmeric
Slaw
You can find Logboat Brewing Co.’s Bear Hair, a Belgian-style blonde ale, in Columbia, Missouri, in 22-ounce bottles and on tap at the brewery’s taproom or in retail stores in Columbia, St. Louis and around mid-Missouri.
24 dried apricots, sliced lengthwise 30 dates, sliced lengthwise 1 Pink Lady apple, julienned into about ¼-inch matchsticks ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro 1 batch lime-cumin vinaigrette (recipe below) Burger
2 lbs ground chicken 3 Tbsp chopped garlic zest of 4 limes 1 Tbsp kosher salt, plus more for grilled bread 1 tsp ground cardamom 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground allspice ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro 1 cup panko bread crumbs ½ cup ginger juice (recipe below) 1 loaf sourdough bread olive oil fresh arugula (to serve)
| Preparation – Ginger Juice | In a food processor using the grating blade, process sliced ginger root. Remove ginger. Insert chopping blade into food processor and add ginger back to processor; process for 2 minutes. Place a sieve over a medium bowl and, using your hands, squeeze ginger pulp over sieve to extract juices. Set aside. | Preparation – Lime-Cumin Vinaigrette | In a large bowl, combine all ingredients and blend using an immersion blender until completely incorporated. Set aside to use in slaw.
| Preparation – Slaw | In a large bowl, combine all ingredients and mix together. Refrigerate for 1 hour prior to use. | Preparation – Burgers | In a large bowl, combine all ingredients except bread, oil and arugula and mix well with hands. Refrigerate for 1 hour prior to use. Heat grill. After meat has chilled in refrigerator for 1 hour, form chicken mixture into 6 patties and place on hot grill. Cover grill after flipping burgers to finish cooking until both sides are golden brown. Remove burgers from grill and allow to rest for a few minutes. While burgers are resting, drizzle 6 slices sourdough with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Grill bread until crispy. Place burger patties on top of grilled bread and top each with arugula. Divide slaw on top of each burger and serve. photo by aaron ottis
by Liz Huff-kennon Liz Huff-Kennon eats burgers at least three times a week. She works long hours at her restaurant, Catalpa, in Arrow Rock, Missouri, and rarely finds time to cook for herself. When she does have a few minutes to spare, she swings through the drive-thru to order off-menu cheeseburgers and onion rings at Sonic. Despite her love of burgers, Huff-Kennon doesn’t serve them at her restaurant, where the menu is focused around fresh and seasonal comfort food accented with globally inspired flavors. “I want to make interesting food approachable,” Huff-Kennon says. “I can take something that everybody knows – in this case, something uniquely
American, like a burger – and make it into something more.” When tasked with preparing a burger for herself, Huff-Kennon developed an open-faced Moroccan chicken burger on grilled sourdough topped with a slaw of apples, dates, apricots and cilantro tossed in a lime-cumin vinaigrette. “I want there to be texture differences,” she says of the toppings. “I like the chewiness of the apricots, the crispness of the apple, the peppery flavor of the arugula and the sweetness of the dates.” To make the patties, she mixes ground chicken with freshly chopped garlic, cilantro, coriander, cardamom, allspice,
lime zest, bread crumbs and fresh ginger juice “to add a bit of juiciness and pure ginger flavor.” She then lets the mixture rest in the refrigerator for an hour to allow the flavors to develop. “The ingredients are my favorite flavors: Moroccan, Ethiopian and Indian,” she says. “And it’s a chicken burger because if I’m going to do something for myself, I might as well make it healthy and fresh.” Huff-Kennon grills the sourdough bread to give the open-faced burgers crunch and to soak up all the juiciness. –L.M. Catalpa, 503 High St., Arrow Rock, Missouri, 660.837.3324, catalparestaurant.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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Kimchi will take four weeks to ferment, so plan accordingly. You can also purchase this kimchi at Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions or find similar kimchi at most international or specialty markets. Serves | 13 |
kombucha “I don’t drink alcohol, but I like to make kombucha at my house, and that’s always really refreshing to go with the Omnivurger,” Bolyard says. “Anything carbonated works, like a Fitz’s root beer.”
Kimchi (yields 5 to 6 quarts)
1 large head napa cabbage, quartered 1½ quarts plus 2 cups distilled water, divided 6½ Tbsp salt, divided 1 large daikon radish, peeled and julienned 3 Tbsp rice flour 1 bunch watercress 12 cloves garlic, microplaned 4 green onions, julienned 4 oz peeled and microplaned ginger ½ cup fermented baby shrimp ½ cup fish sauce ½ cup Korean red chile powder 4 Tbsp Korean red chile flakes Omnivurger (yields 5 pounds or 13 6-ounce patties)
1 lb local mushrooms (shiitake, oyster), stems removed ¼ lb plus 1 Tbsp beef fat (or beef tallow, bacon fat or butter), divided ½ cup red onion 1 Tbsp roasted garlic purée or fresh garlic 4 tsp salt 3¼ lbs beef trim (chuck, round, neck, navel) ½ tsp smoked paprika To Serve
13 brioche buns 2 to 3 oz pea shoots 2 cups miso mayonnaise (or regular mayonnaise)
| Preparation – Kimchi | In a container with a lid, combine cabbage, 1½ quarts distilled water and 4½ tablespoons salt. Brine overnight in refrigerator or 4 to 6 hours at room temperature. Toss daikon in 2 tablespoons salt and drain. In a pot, whisk 2 cups distilled water, rice flour, watercress and daikon and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and cool. Stir in remaining ingredients. Smear paste over brined cabbage, inside and outside of each leaf. Place in fermenting crock, container or jar for at least 4 weeks, checking weekly. Keep water in rim of crock where the lid meets crock to keep oxygen out. Once kimchi has fermented, roughly chop and set aside.
| Preparation – Omnivurger | Preheat oven to 400°F. In a medium bowl, toss mushrooms in ¼ pound beef fat. Transfer to a lipped baking sheet and roast in oven until golden brown; allow to cool. In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, sweat onions in 1 tablespoon beef fat until tender, about 5 minutes, and cool. If using fresh garlic, add to saucepan and sweat with onions, about 5 minutes; let cool. In a large bowl, combine remaining ingredients. In a grinder, grind once through a large plate (¼-inch holes) and a second time through a finer plate (³⁄₁₆ -inch holes). Form mixture into burger patties, 6 ounces each, and chill 6 hours or overnight. In a cast-iron pan over high heat, cook burgers 3 to 4 minutes on each side to develop crust. Top each bun with burger patty, 1 ounce kimchi, 12 to 15 pea shoots and 1½ tablespoons miso mayonnaise. photo by j. pollack photography
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by Chris Bolyard The James Beard Foundation’s Blended Burger Project ran from May 25 to July 31 last summer, and Chris Bolyard of Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions in Maplewood, Missouri, originally developed the Omnivurger for the two-month project. The contest challenged chefs nationwide to create a more sustainable burger using a mushroom-beef blend – something exactly within Bolyard’s wheelhouse: his 2-year-old butcher-and-sandwich shop focuses on humane, nose-to-tail meat sourced from local farmers. Bolyard sold countless Omnivurgers during the contest’s run, and the burger’s popularity prompted patrons to demand that it stay around for the long haul. The raw burger patties are now available each week, made fresh with a mixture of Missouri-cultivated oyster mushrooms that are oven-roasted with beef fat and then combined with an 80-20 blend of beef trimmings and seasonings. Mushrooms account for roughly 20 percent of the final burger patties. “A lot of people have their different ideas about what cuts make the best burger,” says Bolyard, who himself prefers a fattier 75-25 ratio for more flavor. “I had a guy come to the shop and basically ask for steak, just
ground up into a hamburger patty. Personally, I think the tougher cuts make better burgers – all the connective tissue and collagens in the muscles from the neck or the navel translate to flavor. When we double-grind beef [at the shop], it’s a combination of chuck, neck, brisket [and] trimmings off steaks.” While at the shop, pick up a container of housemade garlic-ginger-chile flake kimchi, which Bolyard recommends to top the earthy mushroom-blend burger along with miso mayonnaise and pea shoots. “I’m a big fan of fermenting in general, and when I eat a burger, I like to top it with something pickled or fermented to counterbalance the fattiness,” he says. Adding mushrooms to the patty has a huge impact on flavor and, just as importantly to Bolyard, on our food system. “I take Omnivurgers home to my family at least once a week,” he says. “It promotes sustainability, from an animal welfare standpoint and a health standpoint.” –B.C. Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions, 2810 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, Missouri, 314.647.2567, bolyardsmeat.com
Cody Smith says that good-quality American cheese should be used on this burger – in his words, “not [Kraft] Singles.”
by Cody SMITH and JereMy SMITH Order a plate of brisket, pork spare ribs and sausage in Texas, and you’ll likely get a piece of white bread and some sliced onions, pickles and jalapeños served on the side. The acid and heat cut through the richness of smoked meat, and the pickle brine offers a palate cleanser between bites. Texas-style barbecue first hooked cody Smith while attending culinary school in Austin, and eventually led him to open city butcher in Springfield, Missouri, with Jeremy Smith. (Although they share a last name, they’re not related.) Whether you’re ordering pulled pork in city’s dining room or housemade jalapeño-cheddar sausages in its on-site butcher shop, the focus is decidedly Texan. cody applies this same approach to The Sweaty Texan burger, which is inspired by – and named after – a brisket and hot link sandwich served at the restaurant. “The Texas-style hot links have enough heat to get a bead of sweat running down your forehead,” cody says. The 6-ounce burger patty is made with a 3-1 ratio of ground beef and smoked brisket, topped with American cheese, spicy barbecue sauce, hot links and, in honor of Texas ‘cue,
white river brewing co.’s butcher block pils “It’s a very straightforward pilsner that has a superclean finish,” Jeremy says. “It’s not too hoppy – it’s just a really great food beer. It’s awesome with barbecue, especially Texas barbecue, which is why it’s also a great pair with The Sweaty Texan.” you can find White river brewing Co.’s butcher block pils (made in collaboration with City) in Springfield at the brewery’s taproom, on draft at City butcher and on sale at select retailers around Springfield.
onions, kosher dill pickles and jalapeño-garlic mayo. “Personally, we always put mayonnaise on our burgers,” cody says. “I always put it on the bottom bun because when the burger starts losing its juices, that mayo acts as a barrier so your bottom bun doesn’t get soaked and soggy.” cody says the key to making a juicy burger is simple: Put it on the grill and leave it alone for 4 minutes, flip it and repeat. The hearty burger doesn’t skimp on fat or flavor, oozing with tangy, sweet barbecue sauce; melty, savory cheese; and spicy mayo. It’s a tower of toppings, but just like the barbecue it’s inspired by, heat and brine balance the fat – and after all, everything’s bigger in Texas. “To me, what makes a burger is fat,” cody says. “When you eat a burger that’s dry or made with lean beef and no butter, that doesn’t hit the mark for me. A good burger should drip; the juices should run down your arms as you eat.” –L.M. City Butcher, 3650 S. Campbell Ave., Springfield, Missouri, 417.720.1113, citybutchersgf.com
Serves | 4 | Jalapeño-GarlIC MayonnaISe (yields about 2 cups)
2 cups mayonnaise 2⁄3 cup finely minced pickled jalapeños 4 Tbsp finely minced garlic burGerS
4 4 to 8 4 4 8 ½ 2⁄3 20 4
hot links, thinly sliced lengthwise Tbsp clarified butter, divided brioche buns 6-oz brisket burger patties slices American cheese cup jalapeño-garlic mayo (recipe below) cup finely minced onion slices kosher dill pickles oz spicy barbecue sauce
| Preparation – Jalapeño-Garlic Mayonnaise | In a medium mixing bowl, combine all ingredients and refrigerate overnight.
| Preparation – Burgers | In a cast-iron skillet over medium heat, cook hot links for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and reserve. In the same skillet, add 2 to 4 tablespoons clarified butter and toast buns until golden brown. Remove from heat and reserve. Turn heat up to medium high. Add remaining 2 to 4 tablespoons clarified butter and brisket burgers to skillet and let cook. (Do not smash burgers with your spatula!) Once burgers begin to gray on top and juices star pooling out, about 4 minutes, flip and place 2 slices cheese on cooked side. When burgers have reached medium temperature and cheese is melted, remove from heat and allow to rest for 3 or 4 minutes. While burgers are resting, spread 2 tablespoons jalapeño-garlic mayo on bottom of each bun. Top each bun with ¼ of minced onion and 5 pickle slices. Place burgers on pickles, add hot links, spicy barbecue sauce to taste and top buns. Serve. PhOTO by STARbOARD & PORT cReATIve
4 hands brewing co.’s contact high
By DaviD Choi a few months ago, the owners of the Downtown St. Louis Wheelhouse location asked David choi to develop a burger inspired by the korean-meets-Mexican fare at his popular restaurant, Seoul Taco. The result was a ground beef burger patty marinated in Seoul Taco’s signature bulgogi marinade and topped with Seoul Sauce, cheese and kimchi. When choi is grilling for friends and family, though, he takes a completely different approach. He rarely has a day off for backyard cookouts, as he operates Seoul Taco locations in University city, Missouri; columbia, Missouri; champaign, Illinois; and the brand-new location in chicago, plus the Seoul Taco food truck. “I like grilling; it’s sort of what got me into [cooking],” choi says. “When I cook burgers, it’s with friends, just hanging out and getting out of my element, which is usually work, work, work. It’s relaxing for me. and who doesn’t enjoy barbecuing outside when the weather is nice?” Given the chance to kick back and cook at home, he’ll put together a simple shopping list: an 80-20 chuck blend, uncured pork belly, pepper jack or sharp cheddar cheese, garlic, yellow onion, fresh jalapeños and whatever burger buns look fresh that day. at home, he’ll chop up the vegetables and add them to a large mixing bowl with the beef and some sesame oil, vinegar and soy sauce, and then form burger patties. “Then they’re stuffed with pepper jack or cheddar cheese,” choi says. “It’s fun how the cheese melts inside of it.” He adds a little bit of salt and a lot of freshly ground black pepper to the prepped patties – “I like black pepper, so I’m a bit heavy handed with it,” he says – and then grills them for about 3½ to 4 minutes on each side for a medium cook. choi tops the burger with crispy, grilled uncured pork belly, lettuce, tomato, mayo and gochujang, a spicy korean fermented pepper paste, to add an additional kick of heat to the jalapeño-studded burger. once the burgers are assembled, choi says there’s only one crucial last step: “Eat your face off and dive in a pool! repeat.” –L.M. Seoul Taco, multiple locations, seoultaco.com
Gochujang can be found in international and Asian markets and select large supermarkets. Serves | 5 | Burgers
1 2 2 ½ 1 1 1 20
lb ground beef cloves garlic, chopped jalapeños, chopped yellow onion, diced tsp sesame oil tsp vinegar tsp soy sauce cubes pepper Jack or sharp Cheddar cheese (or a combination) salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ lb uncured pork belly, sliced ½-inch to ¾-inch thick To serve
5 5 5 5 5
burger buns pieces lettuce slices tomato tsp mayonnaise tsp gochujang
| Preparation – Burgers | Heat grill. In a large mixing bowl, combine first 7 ingredients and mix until thoroughly combined. Use mixture to form patties, stuffing center of each with 3 to 4 cubes cheese. Make sure cheese is fully covered and encased by patties. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Grill sliced pork belly until golden brown on both sides. If you time it right and prefer more crispiness, you can grill patties and pork belly at the same time. Grill patties for about 3½ to 4 minutes on each side. Toast buns.
| To Serve | Lay out bottoms of toasted buns and place patties on top. Stack grilled pork belly, lettuce and tomato on each patty. Spread 1 teaspoon mayo and 1 teaspoon gochujang inside bun tops and place on patty. Serve. pHoTo by j. poLLack pHoToGrapHy
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“Contact high igh is released when the weather is nicer, and the citrus notes in it help brighten the heat and richness of the beef and balance the whole burger,” Choi says. you can find 4 hands ands Brewing Co.’s Contact high in its st. t. Louis tasting room and grocery stores and specialty liquor stores across Missouri and illinois.
As our chefs note, if you’re going to be grinding your own meat, the trick is to make sure all of your instruments are cold for the best texture and juiciness. Place everything – the tray (holds the meat to be ground), blade (what cuts the meat) and all different-sized plates (discs covered in various-sized holes) – in the freezer 10 minutes or so before starting. The meat itself – best chopped into 1- to 2-inch pieces with a sharp knife – should also go in the freezer for best results. Place cubed meat on a sheet tray lined with parchment paper and place in freezer for 10 minutes – you want the meat cold and firm, not frozen. To emulsify the fat into the meat and create a juicier, fuller texture, employ a double-grind. When choosing which plates to use, start with a larger plate (¼-inch holes) and a second time through a finer plate (³⁄₁⁶-inch holes). Use a relatively high speed so that meat grinds quickly without heating up. Near the end of the process, when almost all the meat has been ground, use a plastic “stomper” to push remaining meat toward the blade to prevent slicing your fingers.
Forming Patties. “Do not overwork meat as you make patties, otherwise you tend to get more of a meatloaf-type burger. The muscle binds together tighter, but what I want is little tiny minuscule gaps so the fat has somewhere to stay inside the patty, which makes it juicy.” –Chef Debbie Gold seasoning. “I season my burgers right away and always let
them sit out for 20 minutes or so before I cook, while the grill or cast-iron pan is heating, so that it cooks more evenly.” –Chris Bolyard, owner, Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions smashburger style. “If you want a smashburger, like a steakburger-style, you smash it onto the grill, but you don’t keep smashing it. That’s something I see a lot of people do when they grill burgers – they’re constantly smashing it with their spatulas, just squeezing out all of the fat and the liquid that’s inside the burger. If you want a dry burger, just keep smashing it.” –Cody Smith, chef-co-owner, City Butcher Crust. “To cook my burger, I like anything that’s going to put a
lot of char or caramelization on it, like a smoking-hot cast-iron skillet or really hot grill. I think it’s important to get that crust and get that texture contrast – crispy on the outside and medium-rare on the inside.” –Chris Bolyard,
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owner, Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions oil. “In the cast-iron pan, there should be enough fat in the
burger that it brings that out when you’re cooking so you don’t need oil in the pan. The natural fat and flavor coming out will taste much better.” –Chef Debbie Gold resting. “A good burger made from filet mignon and strip
trimmings needs that rest time after you cook it, just like pulling a steak off the grill. The carryover cooking isn’t as long as a two-finger-thick Kansas City strip, but letting it settle five or 10 minutes before you serve it makes a huge difference. Make sure it’s on a resting rack – if you rest it on a sheet tray, the internal temperature is going to be raised from the bottom up.” –Robert Sills, executive chef, Savannah Grille
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TOP BUN. Whether you’re manning the backyard grill or indulging at a local restaurant, summertime is burger time. This month, we invited our Instagram followers to share photos of burgers – from diner-style smashed burgers to custom-blend patties loaded with creative toppings – by using the hashtag #feastgram. Turn to p. 80 for eight local chefs’ go-to burger recipes for their off-the-clock cookouts, including a pimento cheese-pickled jalapeño burger, a ground goat burger with pickled red onions and an open-faced Moroccan chicken burger. Then, flip to p. 36 to learn how to infuse your own burger patties at home in just a few easy steps.
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY INSTAGRAM USERS
#feastgram |1|
| 1 | amanda wilens @feedme_withamanda It happened. You’re welcome! The recipe is up on the site for this spicy turkey burger. | 2 | urban chestnut @urbanchestnut Burger Sunday at #UCBCGrove brings you a beef and pork patty topped with Korean barbecue sauce, housemade kimchi and green onion.
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| 3 | michael friedman @mrefried #Sloppy #Love #Burger with #PulledPork #AmericanCheese #Coleslaw and #PickledOnion. Happy #MemorialDay.
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| 4 | food in the lou @foodinthelou Fast Eddie’s is so underrated. The food is dirt cheap and absolutely delicious. What are your favorite cheap eats? | 5 | taylor hickman @brothathundah Also in the world of burgers. @HankCharcuterie lamb burger with dijonaise and Dirt Lover cheese. | 6 | we eat stuff @weeatstuffstl “Time Bomb” Burger. Locally produced beef burger, beef bacon, Monterey Jack, housemade barbecue sauce, sumac onions, candied serrano chiles, lemon-garlic mayo, brioche bun. Not as spicy as it sounds, but it packs some serious flavor. Dang good burger! (At Layla)
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| 7 | brgr kitchen + bar @brgrkitchen Beef up your Wednesday with a steakhouse burger at lunch. #KCFoodies #BRGRKitchen | 8 | rnd corner grille @rndcornergrille Doors open at 11am for lunch! Come enjoy our classic #RND cheeseburger. It’s a burger kind of Friday.
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| 9 | julia calleo
@mylavenderblues Leftovers are the bestovers.
| 10 | j. pollack photography @jpollackphoto Homemade lamb burger with chocolate.
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Want to see your photos in the August issue of Feast?
Next month, we want to see the frozen treats you’re keeping cool with this summer, from old-school Popsicles to homemade paletas to gourmet gelato pops. To submit your photos for consideration, simply include the hashtag #feastgram and tag @feastmag on your Instagram photos beginning Fri., July 1.
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FOOD. IDEAS. MUSIC.
PENN VALLEY PARK, KANSAS CITY | JULY 23RD, 11AM—7PM
Musicians
BR O O D S
ATLAS GENIUS•THEMOWGLI’S JR JR • THE CKS TH E KN K N OOCKS HEMBREE
Chefs
ANDREW ZIMMERN • CARLA HALL COLBY GARRELTS • GERARD CRAFT M I C H A E L C O R V I NNO O
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We’re proud to partner with local growers like Thies Farm & Greenhouses and Eckert’s Farms for the best locally grown produce. It’s picked fresh in the field and shipped to us for that just-picked flavor.
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