January 2017 Feast Magazine

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Inspired Local Food Culture | M i dw e st

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EXCITE YOUR TASTE BUDS A N D D I S C O V E R N E W F L AV O R S W I T H F R I E N D S AT T H E 1 5 T H A N N U A L S T. L O U I S F O O D A N D W I N E E X P E R I E N C E !

JANUARY 27 - 29 AT THE CHASE PARK PLAZA

PREMIER TASTING–TRULY A CELLAR MAKER'S DREAM! Enjoy an amazing selection of hard-to-find wines including library releases, magnums and vertical tastings, plus a Riedel wine stem, gourmet menu from Michael Brightman’s With Love Catering and more!

FRIDAY, JANUARY 27, 2017 | 7 TO 10 PM

JANUARY 28 & 29 | NOON – 5:00 P.M. GENERAL ADMISSION Discoveries abound on the bustling Main Floor with more than 700 wines to taste, samples from nearly 35 food booths plus craft beer selections. Includes a commemorative wine glass.

VIP RESERVE ROOM Take your tasting experience to the next level and expand your palate! The VIP Reserve Room boasts a delicious buffet created by Schnucks’ Culinary Arts Team, dessert by Bissinger’s Handmade Chocolatier and more than 240 of the highest caliber wines available in St. Louis. PLUS a Riedel stem, silent auction and access to the Main Floor.

www.foodandwinestl.org • The Rep Box Office [314] 968-4925 Participating Schnucks Locations Download our mobile app presented by Missouri Wines to preview wines and plan your day.

WITH MAJOR SUPPORT FROM

Inspired Local Food Culture

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You be the Judge

Hand Crafted Coffees Importing Fine Coffees from 20 Countries February 23, 2017

• QUALITY • EXPERIENCE • SERVICE Full Service Coffeehouse & Restaurant Supplier Fourth Generation Family Owned Coffee Roasters Since 1930

girlscoutsem.org/dessertfirst

Join Girl Scouts for Dessert First, where local chefs transform Girl Scout Cookies into delicious desserts.

Participating Restaurants 23 City Blocks Catering Bailey’s Chocolate Bar The Chase Park Plaza Clementine’s Creamery Kakao Chocolate

Piccione Pastry The Presentation Room at L’École Culinaire Southern Strange Donuts

WWW.CHAUVINCOFFEE.COM

314-772-0700

Ameren Missouri A-Mrazek

Daugherty Business Solutions Express Scripts

Macy’s Novus International

Instantly catapults CHRISTOPHER WHEELDON into the ranks of the top-tier director-choreographers, JEROME ROBBINS and BOB FOSSE.” –The Wall Street Journal

AN AMERICAN IN PARIS MUSIC AND LYRICS BY GEORGE GERSHWIN AND IRA GERSHWIN BOOK BY CRAIG LUCAS DIRECTED AND CHOREOGRAPHED BY CHRISTOPHER WHEELDON

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The Fabulous Fox • January 17-29 MetroTix.com or 314-534-1111

presented by


january 2017 68

tastemakers

fROM THE STAff

In our annual Tastemakers issue, we share stories about the men and women who cook, create and curate the region’s top dining experiences.

|6|

| 69 |

ST. LOUIS AREA

| 78 |

KANSAS CITY AREA

| 88 |

MID-MISSOURI AND SOUTHERN MISSOURI

fROM THE PUBLISHER

The Tastemakers issue

| 10 |

DIgITAL CONTENT

What’s online this month

| 12 |

fEAST Tv

A look at the pizza episode

DINE

| 18 |

ON TREND

Smoothie bowls

| 20 |

wHERE wE’RE DININg

Wicked Greenz, The Exotic Grill, Donutology

| 22 |

ONE ON ONE

Laura Comer of Kauffman Center for the Performing Arts

| 24 |

IN SEASON

Winter pears

DRINK

| 30 |

ON TREND

Fat-washed cocktails

| 32 |

wHERE wE’RE DRINKINg

Jackson Street Brewco, Taste, Gezellig Tap House & Bottleshop

| 34 |

THE MIx

Clarified juices

SHOP

| 38 |

gET THIS gADgET

A tea infusion set and reusable food huggers

| 40 |

ONE ON ONE

Jeff Hirleman and Mollie Lothman of McLain’s Market

| 42 |

ARTISAN PRODUCTS

Sneaky Greens and Collin Garrity Woodworking boards

COOK

| 46 |

HEALTHY APPETITE

Hearty grain bowl with root vegetables, beans and parsley oil

| 48 |

MYSTERY SHOPPER

Black lava salt

| 50 |

MENU OPTIONS

Baked spiced pears in cream

| 52 |

SwEET IDEAS

Brioche waffles TABLE OF CONTENTS PHOTO OF STOCK HiLL (P. 82) By ANNA PETROW


Volume 8

| Issue 1 | January 2017

Vice President of niche Publishing, Publisher of feast Magazine

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

sales

director of sales

Angie Henshaw, ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1298 PHOTO BY SCOTT LEWIS OF LP CREATIVE STUDIO

account Manager

Jennifer Tilman, jtilman@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1205 sPecial Projects editor

Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1244

eDITORIal senior editor

Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Managing editor

Nancy Stiles, nstiles@feastmagazine.com digital editor

Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas city contributing editor

Jenny Vergara st. louis contributing editor

Mabel Suen editorial intern

In the pizza-focused episode of Feast TV, I show you how easy it is to make calzones at home. These delicious pizza pockets are great straight from the oven (or even the grill), but they also freeze well so you can have a family-friendly weeknight dinner that’s healthy and homemade. For the recipe, visit feastmagazine.com.

Kaitlynn Martin fact checKer

Alex Ethridge Proofreader

Christine Wilmes contributing Writers

Christy Augustin, Ettie Berneking, Sherrie Castellano, Gabrielle DeMichele, April Fleming, Natalie Gallagher, Hilary Hedges, Audra Jenkins, Valeria Turturro Klamm, Sarah Kloepple, Brandon and Ryan Nickelson, Ana Pierce, Matt Seiter, Matt Sorrell, Shannon Weber

aRT

art director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Production designer

Jacklyn Meyer, jmeyer@feastmagazine.com contributing PhotograPhers

Zach Bauman, Angela C. Bond, Sherrie Castellano, Jonathan Gayman, Gregg Goldman, William Hess, Natalie Hinds, Kindra Kaempfe, Mark Neunschwander, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Ana Pierce, Danielle Rayoum, Elaine Rohde, Jennifer Silverberg, Mabel Suen, Starboard & Port Creative, Cheryl Waller

FeasT TV

producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios

COnTaCT Us Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1244, feastmagazine.com

DIsTRIbUTIOn To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Jeff Moore for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at jmoore@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2017 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

publisher’s letter I

f you still need to be convinced that this region is at the top of its culinary game, just turn to p. 68. In this, our annual Tastemakers issue, we introduce you to the area’s rising stars, reveal the top new restaurants from the past year as well as give you a taste of the 2017 openings we are anxiously awaiting. Seeing all of the creative, high-quality, bar-setting work that is being done by people here at home, I am more excited than ever about the future of our food and drink scene. Inventive experiences can be had in any number of restaurants, handed to you from food truck windows, served up while you’re seated on a bar stool and enjoyed during one-off pop-up dinners. If there is something you’re craving, you’re going to find it here. I’ve been covering the local food-and-drink scene for quite a while now, and I’ve never seen so much energy in the industry. We are in a true age of culinary renaissance – there’s never been a better time to live, eat and drink in the Midwest. This is the time of year that everyone makes resolutions, so I’ll share one of mine with you. Believe it or not, I am resolving to dine out more frequently in 2017. Over the past couple of years, my schedule has become really, really packed, and I have had less and less time to visit restaurants. This year, while I’m at home in St. Louis and on the road for Feast TV, I’m going to make it a point to check out new places and revisit established spots on a more regular basis. Not only do I want to actively support the industry, I don’t want to miss out on any of the deliciousness. I hope our Tastemakers issue encourages you to do the same. Until next time,

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC

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Catherine Neville


01.17 william hess Kansas City, Photographer “I was really excited to get the call from Feast to photograph these nine up-and-coming chefs. Living in Kansas City, I had heard a lot of buzz about all of the restaurants and chefs on the list. Getting to meet and work with these unique people was incredibly inspiring. All the chefs were so passionate and each one brought their own individuality and personality into their dishes. It was an honor to help share their stories.” (Kansas City rising star chefs, p. 78)

ettie berneking Springfield, Missouri, Writer “After reporting on Springfield’s thriving culinary scene for the past four years, I’ve had the pleasure of getting to know some incredibly talented chefs and restaurateurs. I have met endless sous chefs, pastry chefs, line cooks, butchers and bakers, and one thing is clear: Springfield is alive with creative and enthusiastic culinary minds who often work behind the scenes making the dishes we crave, praise and dream of. Working on this issue’s rising star chef stories gave me the chance to pry deeper into four such chefs, bakers and cooks who are helping put Springfield’s restaurant scene on the map. I learned how Britishtransplant Andy Hampshire is finding delicious ways to use all parts of the pig and how the inventive Katie Kring whips up delicious meals with little more than a jar of tahini. It was a delicious and inspiring journey.” (Southern Missouri rising star chefs, p. 85)

cheryl waller St. Louis, Photographer “I have the great pleasure of working with Christy Augustin of Pint Size Bakery every month on her Sweet Ideas column. I am always so excited to pick up the newest creation and bring it to the studio to photograph. I absolutely love the challenge of figuring out the best lighting, props and styling each month. When I picked up the brioche waffles, I didn’t know if I was more excited to photograph them or taste them. I really wanted to create an image that made you want to pull the food right off the page and eat it. As a food photographer, it’s always the best when you can make people hungry through your images. With an amazing baker, great lighting and that delicious chocolate drizzle, we did just that”. (Sweet Ideas, p. 52)

Saturday, March 4 presents Wall Ball, an exciting evening of live artistry and delicious treats. Engaging an eclectic mix of artists, collectors, and admirers, this annual event features amazing art at unreal prices through a unique silent auction. Sponsored by

7-11 pm•40 artists

$35 General Admission $60 VIP includes beer/wine and early admission at 6:30 pm

Majorette

7150 Manchester Rd. • Maplewood, MO 63143

For more info: 314-865-0060 Purchase tickets online www.artscopestl.org/wallball

Who said a Sports Bar can’t have Amazing Food?

natalie gallagher Kansas City, Writer “There are few things more delightful to me than a meal made with precision and heart. In this issue, I had the pleasure of speaking with some of the most thoughtful chefs in Kansas City, and learning about the process behind their dishes only increased my respect for them. Hearing Natasha Goellner confess her Disney cartoon inspiration made Cirque de Sucre all the more fanciful, and learning about Carlos Falcon’s connections to sustainable, independent fisheries around the globe led me to make a reservation at his restaurant mid-interview. If this is the up-and-coming culinary talent in Kansas City, I’d say we’ve got a lot of good food to look forward to.” (Kansas City rising star chefs, p. 78)

IN THE HEART OF SOULARD 2001 MENARD 314-833-6686 www.dukesinsoulard fb.me/dukesinsoulard Inspired Local Food Culture

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KC

Kansas City RestauRant WeeK Fri., Jan. 13 to Sun., Jan. 22; $15 or $33; participating restaurants; 800.767.7700; kcrestaurantweek.com

Dine out, do good! Kansas City Restaurant Week returns Jan. 13 to 22. Enjoy delicious multicourse lunches and dinners at fixed prices from more than 150 participating restaurants, all while benefiting local charities Boys Grow, Children’s Center for the Visually Impaired and Cultivate Kansas City.

01/13

01/22

STL

WolpeRtingeR Sun., Jan. 22, 1 to 5pm; $40; Urban Chestnut Brewery & Bierhall, 4465 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, Missouri; urbanchestnut.com

Celebrate Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s sixth-annual Wolpertinger at its location in The Grove, with beer samples from more than 35 breweries, live music and food for purchase. Tickets are $40 and can be purchased online or at either brewery tasting room.

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Join Tony La Russa’s Animal Rescue Foundation at

Wine & Whiskers

Specialty Wines ~ Hors d’Oeuvres ~ Silent Auction

01/25

Friday, January 13 5:30pm - 8:30pm Redbird Club, Busch Stadium St. Louis, Missouri

STL

$75 per person

schnucks cooks: BAked spiced peArs in creAm

THIS EVENT WILL SELL OUT

Wed., Jan. 25, 6 to 9pm; $45; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School; 314.909.1704;

This event supports ARF’s programs, promoting positive relationships between animals and people.

schnuckscooks.com

In this class, you’ll learn how to make a fresh take on chicken and dumplings that updates the classic dish with ricotta cheese. You’ll also learn how to make a corn soufflé and how to properly peel and core pears.

Reserve online at www.arflife.org

PHOTO BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

STL

Sponsorships • Kathleen Huls • (925) 296-3118

15th AnnuAl st. louis Food & wine experience,

OMMERCIAL ANK

C

B

presented By schnucks to BeneFit the repertory theAtre oF st. louis

Fri., Jan. 27, 7 to 10pm; Sat., Jan. 28, 12 to 5pm; and Sun., Jan. 29, 12 to 5pm; $40 to $300; The Chase Park Plaza, 212 Kingshighway Blvd.,

01/27

St. Louis, Missouri; 314.968.4925; foodandwinestl.org

The 15th Annual St. Louis Food and Wine Experience will have more than 900 domestic and international wines to taste, as well as specialty foods, gourmet cooking accessories and other culinary delights around every corner. VIP tickets available. The event is presented by Schnucks and benefits The Repertory Theatre of St. Louis.

01/28

MO

Frosty BrewFest & spirits Sat., Jan. 28, 2 to 6pm; $25 to $150; Crown Valley Brewing & Distilling, 13326 State Route F, Ste. Genevieve, Missouri; 573.756.9700; crownvalleybrewery.com

More than 25 breweries and distilleries join together on one frosty winter day at Crown Valley Brewing & Distilling in Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, for the fifth-annual Frosty Brewfest. General admission tickets are $25 and include a souvenir glass. VIP admission is $60 and includes early entrance at 1pm, a souvenir glass, a food ticket and a filled 32-ounce growler. An all-inclusive package is available for $150.

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this month on

feastmagazine.com

feastmag

@feastmag

feastmag

@feastmag

feastmagazine

the feed

PhotograPhy by MabEL SuEn

We’re giving away a pair of general admission tickets to the 15th annual St. Louis Food & Wine Experience on Sat., Jan. 28 and Sun., Jan. 29! Just head to the Promotions section at feastmagazine. com for all the details.

also on the feed...

St. CharleS

Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s U.R.B., or Urban Research Brewery, is now open in The Grove, serving up New York-style pizza by the slice. The small pilot brewery, which features a consumer research bar, will offer a taste of Urban Chestnut’s experimental small-batch brews.

Sweet ShopS

PhotograPhy by ana PiErcE

In St. Charles, Missouri, you’ll find St. Louis favorites like gooey butter cake alongside international goodies like French macarons and Italian biscotti. We rounded up seven of our favorite spots to sate your sweet tooth in St. Charles.

so-mo Springfield, Missouri, coffee shop Kingdom Coffee has launched a new weekend brunch menu focused on creative waffles. Look for options like the courgette and Cheddar, made with spiralized zucchini, or this ricotta and Sriracha waffle topped with pico de gallo and honey-Sriracha glaze.

PhotograPhy by JESSica Vaughn

PhotograPhy by amanda Wilens

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mid-mo In Jefferson City, Missouri, Three Story Coffee is sharing the stories behind its coffee. The shop is launching a new campaign to help coffee drinkers build relationships with farmers across the world. feastmagazine.com

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Wine Country

You Think

register to win a

$50 gift card to drunken fish Subscribe to Feast’s weekly e-newsletter and be entered to win! Delivered to your inbox every Wednesday.

Defiance • Augusta • New Melle

entry ne deadli 3 y2 j a n ua r

sign up at: www.feastmagazine.com/site/newsletter 2427

6. 00.36 S 8 : U E D T I AC SITORS GU I CONYT M OUR V ES.CO

HARL C T S C RI HISTO

FOR

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TV

In this episode we head to Il Lazzarone, an Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana-certified wood-fired pizza place. We’ll also get a taste of classic American pizza at Shakespeare’s and visit this iconic college hangout, plus we’ll check out how frozen pizza is made at Dogtown Pizza, a company that hand-makes St. Louis-style pizza you can bake at home. In the kitchen, host Cat Neville will show you how to make ooey-gooey calzones with three different savory fillings.

At Il Lazzarone in Kansas City and St. Joseph, Missouri, Neapolitan-style pizzas are cooked quickly at very high temperatures in a hand-built wood-fired oven.

Dogtown Pizza’s St. Louis-style pies feature a blend of Provel and mozzarella. Even those timid about the city’s signature cheese will enjoy this handmade pizza.

Host Cat Neville gets into the kitchen at Shakespeare’s in Columbia, Missouri, and learns how to make one of its famous hand-tossed pizzas.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:

Missouri Wines

Whole Foods Market

l’ école culinaire

Missouri Wines supports more than 125 wineries operating in the state and is focused on promoting the industry’s growth and vitality.

Feast TV is proud to feature Whole Foods Market’s 365 Everyday Value line of products. Pick up ingredients at Whole Foods locations in the St. Louis area.

In St. Louis and Kansas City, L’École Culinaire offers high-quality culinary education from basic culinary skills to careers in management.

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the raphael hotel The Raphael Hotel is Feast’s official hotel, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.


Schedule A conSultAtion Serving All MiSSouri regionS

In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Wednesdays at 7pm and Saturdays and Sundays at 6:30pm.

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19).

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Thursdays at 7pm and Saturdays at 4:30pm.

HAPPY HOLIDAYS FROM LAKE TV

Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8).

WATCH THE LAKE OF OZARKS LIFESTYLE

Check mylaketv.com to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

FCORMOOM90W| FHACEERBEOOVKE@RlaYkOetUv |LRIOVKEU

STREAMING 24/7 ON MYLAKETV.COM Inspired Local Food Culture

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Get your Tickets Today!

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ST L Au to S h ow.co m

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sweet science

Donutology gets delicious donuts down to a science in Kansas City on p. 21. photography by anna petrow


pitaya ST. LOUIS. smoothie bowls have been on the menu at PuraVegan in the

smoothie bowls Written by HeatHer riske

Debaliviere Place neighborhood of st. Louis for the past five years, but owner Monica stoutenborough believes their popularity has soared lately due to instagram and other social media outlets. “the bowls are absolutely beautiful – that’s part of the joy of eating them,” she says. “smoothie bowls are really great for helping you slow down and not just gulp down the drink quickly like you do with a straw.” the café’s light, easy-to-digest Hungry Healer Pitaya bowl is packed with powerful superfoods and antioxidants. Cucumber and moringa powder are blended, then topped with goji berries, sliced Granny smith apples and hemp seeds. the popular Hungry Warrior açai bowl is a better pre-fuel or re-fuel item for your workout – it features hemp protein, peanut butter, coconut and cacao nibs – and stoutenborough says some diners even describe it as healthy breakfast ice cream. 314.932.5144, puravegan.com PHoto by jaCkLyn Meyer

It’s time to swap your straw for a spoon: The smoothie just got a makeover. Compared to their liquid counterparts, smoothie bowls feature a slightly thicker base topped with an artful arrangement of everything from chia seeds, nuts and coconut flakes to slices of fresh fruit and crunchy granola. Now, chefs and home cooks are crafting camera-ready smoothie bowls for breakfast, lunch or eye-catching snacks. Need proof? Just jump on Instagram.

fresh açai KANSAS CITY. Chris Goode doesn’t mind if you linger an extra minute to snap a photo of your açai bowl at Ruby Jean’s Juicery in kansas City – in fact, he encourages it. “it’s very shareable – it looks great for snapping an instagram photo, and we take pride in that,” he says. “We’re in that social age where even if you like something, you like it more if it looks good.” Goode opened the health-minded eatery – which specializes in fresh-squeezed juices, performance shakes, smoothies and healthy snacks – in the bar-saturated Westport neighborhood in 2015. He named the restaurant for his grandmother, whose early death from diabetes, kidney disease and high blood pressure inspired him to educate others on healthy, clean eating. now, açai bowls are one of the most popular items on the menu at ruby jean’s. Fresh açai is blended with banana, strawberry, pineapple and a splash of agave until it reaches a consistency similar to sherbet, then layered with fresh blueberries, strawberries, banana and flaxseed. in early 2017 ruby jean’s will open a location in springfield, Missouri, serving the same menu of fresh and vibrant juices, bowls, smoothies and shakes.

816.399.2596, rubyjeansjuicery.com PHotos by anGeLa C. bonD


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chocolate-açai COLUMBIA, MO. Sometimes you just don’t want to drink your

breakfast, and Nourish CafĂŠ & Market co-owner Kalle LeMone says that’s where smoothie bowls come in. Along with co-owner and head chef Kimber Dean, LeMone opened the healthy fast-casual concept – which is entirely gluten-, soy-, corn- and refined sugar-free – in Columbia, Missouri, this June. In addition to a handful of drinkable smoothies and cold-pressed juices, Nourish offers two smoothie bowls. Choose from an açai-berry bowl with banana, fresh-squeezed orange juice and organic frozen berries, or a chocolate-açai bowl with raw cacao, banana and housemade raw cacao-cashew milk topped with cacao nibs. Each bowl is finished with a sprinkling of grain-free granola made in house with toasted coconut, almond meal, pepitas, coconut oil, cashews, maple syrup and chia seeds. “With the toppings, there’s more substance to a smoothie bowl – I feel like I’m actually eating something,â€? LeMone says with a laugh. “They’re very popular because açai has no sugar and is packed with antioxidants and nutrients.â€?

Â? Â? Â

573.818.2240, nourishcafemarket.com PhoTo by AAroN oTTIS

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where we’re dining From new restaurants to renewed menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining this month.

wicked greenz Written by Sarah KLoePPLe

CLAYTON, MO. there’s no shortage of lunch spots on

the busy streets of downtown clayton, Missouri, but for a quick and healthy meal, your options are more limited. enter Wicked Greenz. the fast-casual eatery opened its doors at the end of September in the former home of bocci Wine bar. it offers (and delivers) chef-made salads either “bowled” in the traditional style or “rolled” into a tortilla. each leafy combination is then paired with a recommended protein and housemade dressing. the concept comes from chris Sedlak and Matt ratz, both previously of Jimmy John’s management and franchising, and Justin haifley, co-owner and chef.

PhotograPhy by JacKLyn Meyer

Sedlak believes the concept is fitting for those with busy schedules that hinder workouts and healthy eating – something he experienced himself. “i’d wind up getting Mcdonald’s or pizza,” he says. “you get frustrated because you don't have a quick, healthy option that you know is going to taste good.” on your next visit, try the Mexicali, topped with black beans, red onion, sweet corn, cilantro, pico de gallo, pepper Jack cheese, crispy tortilla strips, avocado-lime crema and a charred tomato vinaigrette (blackened chicken is the recommended protein). Look out for a location in o’Fallon, Missouri, slated to open in late spring or early summer, as well as outposts in Maryland heights, Missouri, and West county coming soon. 314.727.2772, wickedgreenz.com

the exotic grill Story and PhotograPhy by ana Pierce

SPRINGFIELD, MO. the ramen craze has hit Springfield, Missouri, thanks to The Exotic Grill. co-owners Letty and dennis Soriano own the successful flagship location in Poplar bluff, Missouri, although the new Springfield outpost serves a different selection of dishes. here, the focus is on Filipino- and Japanese-inspired fare, including kakuni ramen, made with pork broth, noodles, braised pork and cabbage, and yaki niku ramen, with chicken broth, noodles, shredded beef, onion, cabbage and carrots. the exotic grill also offers traditional Filipino dishes, such as chicken adobo, pork sinigang and lumpia, as well as Japanese-style rice bowls – some with decidedly americanized flavors – and gyoza dumplings. a favorite at the Poplar bluff location is the bourbon chicken don bowl with sweet and savory fried chicken, steamed rice and house bourbon glaze.

417.368.1394, theexoticgrill.com

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KANSAS CITY. When Daylight Donuts owners andrew and Meghan Cameron came

on

Written by jenny vergara

rob connoley chef-owner, bulrush

across a small but charming mid-century building in the Westport neighborhood on one of the most visible corners in Kansas City, they knew their seventh shop was going to need personality all its own. Donutology opened its colorful and playful new donut shop in october, offering guests a chance to create their own customizable mini cake donuts. you choose everything from the cake flavor to the icings, toppings and drizzles. the minis can be ordered in batches of three, six, 15 or 35, and are available every day for dine in, carry out or via a handy outside walk-up window. you’ll also find full-size favorites like cinnamon rolls, glazed donuts, bear claws, long johns and sausage rolls. baristas serve coffee drinks made with coffee from the roasterie and shatto Milk Co. products, as well as juices, tea, smoothies and milkshakes.

q&A

Written by bethany Christo

ST. LoUIS. although he doesn’t have a location yet, rob Connoley has the layout

for his upcoming restaurant, Bulrush, all mapped out. the kitchen will take center stage, where he and his sous chef will prepare a tasting menu consisting of “foraged, farmed and hunted” foods. the kitchen will be surrounded by two 12-person horseshoe-shaped tables, to which Connoley will hand-deliver courses. a backlit wall will house hundreds of jars full of fresh and fermented foraged goods that Connoley will spend three to four days a week collecting. the bridgeton, Missouri, native moved back to the st. louis area in june after 30 years away. eight of those years were spent in a tiny town in new Mexico heading up his foraging-focused restaurant, Curious Kumquat, which earned him a james beard semifinalist nomination for best Chef: southwest in 2014. bulrush is slated for a mid-2017 opening, and in the meantime, Connoley is hosting pop-up dinners, including on feb. 3 and 4 in Kansas City, as well as teaching a cooking class in the st. louis area at Kitchen Conservatory on hearty vegetable entrées on jan. 15 and promoting his foraging cookbook, Acorns & Cattails, published last fall.

photography by jennifer silverberg

816.298.5222, donutology.com

photography by anna petroW

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Donutology

What’s your vision for Bulrush? it will be impeccable food with impeccable service. it’s a tasting menu, but with none of the stuffiness often associated with them. i’m also playing with the idea of a prepaid ticketing system so that you don’t have to bring a penny with you. bulrush won’t have servers – my sous chef and i are going to cook your food in front of you, and we’re going to personally deliver it to you. We can chat while i cook – i can tell you where i got the ingredients, and here’s what i’m doing with it. at Curious Kumquat, every single table, every single night, saw me. i always brought out a minimum of the dessert course if not much more. What’s the point of food if you can’t see people enjoying it? How has St. Louis changed since you’ve been away? i moved back for family, so it was a very lucky coincidence that the food scene is exploding. i left when i was 18, and i remember that imo’s, or at least provel, was gourmet, and we didn’t make fun of it. so now i come back, and the farm-to-table aspect is unlike any i’ve ever seen. the chef community is so supportive: Chefs are offering me their kitchens left and right, letting me cook with them, sharing their sources. here, farm-to-table is easy because there are so many farmers that you can work with who can provide you year round. In New Mexico, you built a reputation for serving foraged foods at Curious Kumquat – how will that carry over to Bulrush? i left new Mexico thinking i was the king of my fiefdom. i knew the plants; i knew the land; i knew how it responded to seasons and moisture and animals. here, everything looks similar to me, so i’m connecting with local foragers to help me identify all the flora. i’m spending three to four days a week in the woods foraging with lexi, my blue heeler who i’ve trained to forage. at my first pop up in october, the eight courses were a representation of my future menu, and man, there were a lot of foraged ingredients – pawpaw curry with foraged mushrooms, sweet potato hash and chickweed; and venison tostadas on acorn tortillas with watercress and grass-seed porridge, for example. Are there recipes in Acorns & Cattails that you’ll serve at Bulrush? one is the thai-spiced acorn croquette, where i grind acorns and add them to a thai curry made with lots of foraged ingredients and then deep-fry them. it’s crunchy on the outside and gooey on the inside; most people eat them and think there’s meat in there. acorn is a hearty protein with amazing flavor. pawpaw is a brand-new ingredient to me that i’m excited to work with – it’s everywhere, so plentiful here. bulrushstl.com

Inspired Local Food Culture

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executive chef, kauffman center for the performing arts

q&A

Written By Sarah Kloepple

|

photography By zach Bauman

KAnSAS CITY. the Kauffman Center for the Performing Arts is well known as an arts destination in Kansas city, but its three-course, pre-show Dining experience might be its best-kept secret. laura comer took over as executive chef on oct. 6 after philippe lechevin’s departure. originally a music major at university of missouri-Kansas city, comer attended culinary school in los angeles before returning to her hometown for positions at trezo maré and Bluestem. most recently, she was a regional chef for treat america Food Services, and the Kauffman center happened to be one of her clients. “i got to be here for the Dining experience when they first started it, so it was a neat thing to see evolve,” comer says. She debuted her first winter menu for the Dining experience in December, which is open for service to non-ticket holders, as well.

What do you hope to add or change about the Dining Experience? i don’t really want to change a lot because, frankly, it’s a beautiful experience to come here and have dinner. What i’m excited about is putting some of myself in there and it being a little more my style. after a while, you want to do something new, so it’s fun to change the menus up; i’m really excited about seasonality. What can people expect from the winter menu? i have comfort foods, but very refined. We have a sarsaparilla-braised short rib, and a very elegant version of chicken and waffles with bourbon sweet potatoes. We [also] have a crispy black cod with a white bean and chorizo ragù. and then some fun, more wintery warm desserts like ginger cake with mulled wine pears and white chocolate gelato. Do the performances at Kauffman Center ever inspire your dishes? absolutely. We’re doing some fun things with the [Kansas city Symphony, which is performing music from Raiders of the Lost Ark]… We’ve got some things on the menu that are tiki, some gold-bar desserts and skulls… in the movie, he goes from nepal to cairo, so i have some dishes that are traditional in both those countries. it’s always fun to do a theme. otherwise, my inspiration really comes from seasonality. i think that’s, in general, the way our culture is trending, [but] i don’t think it’s a trend; i think it’s the way we’re going to eat from now on. people are trying to eat locally from what’s around them and know where their food comes from. i very much try to instill that in our menus. What do you hope to ultimately bring to the Kansas City food scene? i’m really excited because i think it’s such a neat experience to be able to have dinner right before your show. it takes the worry and the hurry and the “Where am i going to park?” out of it… i’m proud to work here. it’s one of the most beautiful spaces, and to be able to walk in here and enjoy the Dining experience is amazing, and then the way it all comes together. the Dining experience has been growing and growing over the years, and i just want to make sure that people in the Kansas city area know it’s available. 816.994.7222, kauffmancenter.org/the-center/dining

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in season: september through may

Winter Pears Written by nancy StileS

|

photography by nadezhda parizhSkaia /iStock

Soft and juicy Bartlett pears are the summer standard, but this time of year, winter pears, including d’Anjou, Bosc and Forelle, complement spices like cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. Chefs are taking advantage of the fruit in more than just dessert; it can be eaten raw, but is also well-suited for baking and poaching.

pizza st. Louis. Mangia Italiano has been serving fresh pasta

and italian espresso in south St. louis for 33 years, but seven months ago, chef-owner James bonsanti put pears on a pizza for the first time since taking over operations in 2011. the pyrus – latin for pear – features housemade dough topped with garlic oil, sliced bosc pears, prosciutto and goat cheese drizzled with honey. bosc pears have a denser flesh than other varieties and the texture holds up well to baking. “the slight sweetness of the pears and the saltiness of the prosciutto just go well together,” bonsanti says. “they counter each other in a really good way. you’re not getting [something] overly sweet.” you can also catch bosc pears in the pear and parmesan salad, featuring mixed greens, sliced pears, freshly shaved parmesan, dried cherries, crispy prosciutto and a white balsamic vinaigrette. 314.664.8585, dineatmangia.com

bread JeFFerson City, mo. at Capitol Cork & Provisions in Jefferson city, Missouri, chef-owner Jami Wade adds a touch of sweetness to her field green salads: pear-pomegranate bread served on the side. Wade likens it to banana bread, but instead of mashed-up bananas, she uses seasonal fruits – strawberry-lemon in the summer, persimmon in the fall and d’anjou pear and pomegranate in the winter. “[because] the bread is seasonal, the ingredients change with the availability of fresh fruit,” she says. “pears and pomegranates are available in the winter months when other fruits are out of season, and i love the tartness of pomegranate seeds.” Many customers remark that the bread could easily be a dessert, and she gets requests to buy loaves of the pear-pomegranate bread for the holidays. “i had an employee who brought this [recipe] to my kitchen, and we just started playing around with different fruits,” Wade says. “it’s just so versatile!”

573.632.2675, corkjcmo.com

tart LaWrenCe, Ks. pears show up three ways in the

. 50 Turn to p ct rte perfe for a win d r bake recipe fo ars d spice pe . m a re in c

chestnut-pear tart at Hank Charcuterie in lawrence, kansas: sliced, dried and in gel form. chef de cuisine and pastry chef Jamie everett uses Forelle pears from trails West Farms in eudora, kansas. “they have incredible pears,” everett says. “they’re super sweet; they have a really intense pear flavor and the texture’s great. they’re probably the best pears i’ve ever had.” everett starts with a basic pastry dough and a layer of chestnut pastry cream followed by sliced Forelle pears. after baking, the tart is topped with a mix of brown sugar, butter and vanilla to keep the pears from drying out, plus goat cheese-crème fraiche, pear-cider gel, pear chips and a roasted chestnut tuile. the gel is made by baking down the leftover pear cores and skins with water, sugar and mulling spices before straining it out and turning it into a gel using agar agar. “We kept the flavors really simple so the pears could shine through. that’s why we wanted to use the chestnuts and vanilla; it’s a nice background flavor for it.” 785.832.8688, hankmeats.com

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mo

q&A

scott jose manager, hychi

Written by Sarah Kloepple

CoLUMBIA, Mo. When it comes to

americanized Chinese food in Columbia, Missouri, it’s grocery store chain hyVee that – oddly enough – seems to reign supreme. a quick-service line in all three Columbia locations offers combinations of favorites like General tso’s chicken, fried rice and egg-drop soup. now, you can find hyVee Chinese food on the road, as well. the HyChi (shorthand for “hyVee Chinese”) food truck launched aug. 30; it’s the first hyVee food truck to debut in Missouri, although you can also find ones in nebraska and iowa. its menu includes a variety of street-friendly stir-fry bowls and best-sellers from the grocery store menu including crab rangoon, General tso’s and sesame chicken. truck manager Scott Jose, who’s been with hyVee for seven years, says the truck typically runs Wednesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner. Specific locations can be found on twitter at @hychi_columbia.

photoGraphy by aaron ottiS

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What made you want to come on board HyChi? Mostly because it was a new opportunity. We saw that Columbia didn’t have a Chinese food truck or anything mobile for Chinese food, for that matter. We saw an opportunity, and people already love hyVee Chinese food. the three hyVee Chinese departments in Columbia are always top 10 [in company sales] every quarter. Columbia really likes their hyChi! What’s the response been so far? it’s been a really warm reception already. not many people know that we have the truck, but everyone that comes across the truck – they’re just ecstatic about it. probably the weirdest response i had to the truck: We were working late at night downtown, and [these people] started chanting, “We are not worthy,” and bowing down to the truck. Tell me about the food truck menu. [our bestselling item] is definitely the sesame chicken. that’s always been a favorite, even in the store. We have mostly food truck-specific stir fry bowls. the Korean barbecue beef stir-fry bowl is probably the most popular. it’s got sautéed beef with broccoli, carrots, celery and cabbage, and it’s all tossed in this Korean barbecue sauce that we make. all the combos come with rice or lo mein. We also have the Mongolian chicken stir-fry bowl, which has mushrooms, celery, and red and green peppers, and it’s tossed into a sauce packed with flavor. We’re also working on making thai chile-chicken nachos – so kind of like an asian-Mexican fusion for the truck. We want to keep the sesame [chicken] and General tso’s on the truck, but everything else we want to be food truck-specific; you can’t get it in the store. Why do you think HyVee's Chinese food is so popular in Columbia? honestly, i think it’s the student population. there are three major high schools, and then we’ve got the University of Missouri, which has more than 30,000 students; Columbia College; Stephens College and a community college. i think the students like it, and they’re very loyal. What’s next for the food truck? We’re one of five food trucks in the entire company right now. i definitely think there’s more food trucks coming – it’s just a matter of where. right now, i would suspect Kansas City would probably be looking for a [hyChi] food truck.

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Regional RestauRant guide As proud supporters of Feast Magazine, we encourage you to visit any of these fine establishments. From fine dining to fast casual to local wineries, there is an array of experiences to choose from, so support and eat local!

26

4 Hands Brewing Co. 1220 S. Eighth St. St. Louis, MO 314.436.1559 4handsbrewery.com

Café Ventana 3919 W. Pine Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.531.7500 cafeventana.com

Diablitos Cantina 3761 Laclede Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.644.4430 diablitoscantina.com

Herbie’s 8100 Maryland Ave. Clayton, MO 314.769.9595 herbies.com

Aya Sofia 6671 Chippewa St. St. Louis, MO 314.645.9919 ayasofiacuisine.com

Castelli’s Restaurant at 255 3400 Fosterburg Road Alton, IL 618.462.4620 castellis255.com

Drunken Fish multiple locations drunkenfish.com

Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. multiple locations kaldiscoffee.com

BaiKu Sushi Lounge 3407 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.896.2500 baikustl.com

Cellar House Wine + Food 6039 Telegraph Road Oakville, MO 314.846.5100 bottlecellars.com

Duke’s 2001 Menard St. St. Louis, MO 314.833.6686 dukesinsoulard.com

Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria 9568 Manchester Road Rock Hill, MO 314.942.6555 katiespizzaandpasta.com

Baileys’ Chocolate Bar 1915 Park Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.8100 baileyschocolatebar.com

Cha Cha Chow 4916 Shaw Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.833.6655 chachachow.com

Eckert’s Country Restaurant 951 S. Green Mount Road Belleville, IL 618.233.0513 eckerts.com

La Cosecha Coffee Roasters 7360 Manchester Road Maplewood, MO 314.440.0337 lacosechacoffee.com

Baileys’ Range 920 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.241.8121 baileysrange.com

Chaz on the Plaza at the Raphael Hotel 325 Ward Parkway Kansas City, MO 816.802.2152 raphaelkc.com

Farmers Gastropub 2620 S. Glenstone Ave. Springfield, MO 417.864.6994 farmersgastropub.com

Mai Lee 8396 Musick Memorial Drive Brentwood, MO 314.645.2835 maileestl.com

Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas 325 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.3434 bellavinowinebarstl.com

Chez Marilyn 119 W. Third St. Alton, IL 618.465.8071

Fratelli’s Ristorante 2061 Zumbehl Road St. Charles, MO 636.949.9005 fratellisristorante.com

The Muddled Pig Gastropub 2733 Sutton Blvd. Maplewood, MO 314.781.4607 themuddledpig.com

Best Regards Bakery & Café 6759 W. 119th St. Overland Park, KS 913.912.7238 makethemsmile.com

Cielo Restaurant & Bar 999 N. Second St. St. Louis, MO 314.881.2105 cielostlouis.com

Gallagher’s Restaurant 114 W. Mill St. Waterloo, IL 618.939.9933 gallagherswaterloo.com

My Just Desserts 31 E. Broadway Alton, IL 618.462.5881 myjustdesserts.org

Bissell Mansion Restaurant & Dinner Theatre 4426 Randall Place St. Louis, MO 314.533.9830 bissellmansiontheatre.com

Cleveland-Heath 106 N. Main St. Edwardsville, IL 618.307.4830 clevelandheath.com

The Grille at the Mansion 1680 Mansion Way O’Fallon, IL 618.624.0629 mansionsteakhouse.com

Olympia Kebob House & Taverna 1543 McCausland Ave. Richmond Heights, MO 314.781.1299 olympiakebobandtavern.com

Bluff City Grill 424 E. Broadway Alton, IL 618.433.8288 bluffcitygrillalton.com

Corner Restaurant 4059 Broadway Kansas City, MO 816.931.4401 thecornerkc.com

Helen Fitzgerald’s 3650 S. Lindbergh Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.984.0026 helenfitzgeralds.com

Ramon’s El Dorado 1711 St. Louis Road Collinsville, IL 618.344.6435 ramonseldorado.net

Bridge Tap House & Wine Bar 1004 Locust St. St. Louis, MO 314.241.8141 thebridgestl.com

Crown Valley Brewing & Distilling 13326 State Highway F Ste. Genevieve, MO 573.756.9700 crownvalleybrewery.com

Hendricks BBQ 1200 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.8600 hendricksbbq.com

Range Free 110 Orr St. #101 Columbia, MO 573.777.9980 range-free.com

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Ravanelli’s Restaurant 3 American Village 26 Collinsport Drive Granite City, IL | Collinsville, IL 618.877.8000 | 618.343.9000 ravanellis.com

Start Bar 1000 Spruce St. 1W St. Louis, MO 314.376.4453 startbarstl.com

The Restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton 100 Carondelet Plaza St. Louis, MO 314.863.6300 ritzcarlton.com

Stone Hill Winery 1110 Stone Hill Highway Hermann, MO 573.486.2221 stonehillwinery.com

Rooster 1104 Locust St. 3150 S. Grand Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.241.8118 | 314.772.3447 roosterstl.com

Sugar Creek Winery 125 Boone Country Lane Defiance, MO 636.987.2400 sugarcreekwines.com

Sanctuaria 4198 Manchester Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.535.9700 sanctuariastl.com

Syberg’s multiple locations sybergs.com

Shift Test Kitchen & Take Out 313 N. 11th St. St. Louis, MO 314.932.7443 shifttestkitchen.com

Trattoria Giuseppe 5442 Old State Route 21 Imperial, MO 636.942.2405 trattoria-giuseppe.com

Shrine Restaurant 442 S. De Mazenod Drive Belleville, IL 618.394.6237 shrinerestaurant.org

Triumph Grill 3419 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.446.1801 triumphgrill.com

Small Batch 3001 Locust St. St. Louis, MO 314.380.2040 smallbatchstl.com

Twisted Tree Steakhouse 10701 Watson Road St. Louis, MO 314.394.3366 twistedtreesteakhouse.com

Southern 3108 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.531.4668 stlsouthern.com

Southtown Pub 3707 S. Kingshighway Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.832.9009 southtownpub.net

Square One Brewery and Distillery 1727 Park Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.231.2537 squareonebrewery.com

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Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. 3229 Washington Ave. 4465 Manchester Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.222.0143 urbanchestnut.com

JANUARY 13-22

The Wheelhouse 1000 Spruce St. St. Louis, MO 314.833.3653 wheelhousestl.com

Gather your group and indulge in Kansas @feastmag on Instagram City’s premier dining event, featuring multicourse menus at 175+ area restaurants. Make plans, and learn about this year’s featured charities, at KCRestaurantWeek.com.

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Ravanelli’s Restaurant 3 American Village 26 Collinsport Drive Granite City, IL | Collinsville, IL 618.877.8000 | 618.343.9000 ravanellis.com

Start Bar 1000 Spruce St. 1W St. Louis, MO 314.376.4453 startbarstl.com

The Restaurant Stone Hill Winery at The Ritz-Carlton 1110 Hillwith Highway Discover nirvana at Grand Velas LosStone Cabos, ocean100 Carondelet Plaza Hermann, MO view accommodations, gourmet dining, luxurious spas, St. Louis, MO 573.486.2221 championship golf, pristine beaches, and gorgeous scenery. 314.863.6300 The first to introduce true luxury stonehillwinery.com to the all-inclusive concept, ritzcarlton.com

Velas Resorts take children and grown-ups alike to a place full of fun and excitement with daily activities and entertainment. A Kid’s Club, Teen’s Club and even baby concierge allow Rooster Creek Winery alone-time while the familySugar is entertained. 1104parents Locust St.

125 Boone Country Lane 3150 S. Grand Blvd. Grand Velas Los Cabos’ four gourmet restaurants Defiance, MO allow guests St. Louis, MO 636.987.2400 to explore and savor a worldly fusion of flavors, comparable to 314.241.8118 | 314.772.3447 sugarcreekwines.com that of top restaurants in world capitals. International dining roosterstl.com

options include gourmet French specialties, fresh seafood and fine Mexican. All restaurants and bars offer stunning views and indoor and open-air seating.

Sanctuaria Vacations, 4198Apple Manchester Ave.the World’s #1 Vacation Syberg’sCompany to Mexico, makes getting there easy and affordable with non-stop St. Louis, MO multiple locations exclusive vacation flights from St. Louis to Los Cabos beginning 314.535.9700 sybergs.com this spring, along with scheduled air service on major carriers . sanctuariastl.com

Shift Test Kitchen & Take Out 313 N. 11th St. St. Louis, MO 314.932.7443 shifttestkitchen.com

Wine aficionados will enjoy wine pairings at dinner, ultraTrattoria Giuseppe premium wines from Ensenada, StateUnique Route 21 and5442 wineOld tastings. dining Imperial, MO events, a coffee bar, premium 636.942.2405 liquor brands, cigar room, and trattoria-giuseppe.com custom cocktails add up to an ideal experience for those who appreciate the finer things in life.

Shrine Restaurant Triumph Grill 442 S. De Mazenod Drive 3419 Olive St. Belleville, IL St. Louis, MO 618.394.6237n #1 Vacation Company to 314.446.1801 Mexico Worldwide shrinerestaurant.org triumphgrill.com n Apple Vacations Resort Representatives in Resort

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Small Batch 3001 Locust St. St. Louis, MO 314.380.2040 smallbatchstl.com

Twisted Tree Steakhouse 10701 Watson Road St. Louis, MO 314.394.3366 twistedtreesteakhouse.com

Southern 3108 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.531.4668 stlsouthern.com

Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. 3229 Washington Ave. 4465 Manchester Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.222.0143 urbanchestnut.com

Southtown Pub 3707 S. Kingshighway Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.832.9009 southtownpub.net

The Wheelhouse 1000 Spruce St. St. Louis, MO 314.833.3653 wheelhousestl.com

Square One Wood Cask Brewery and Distillery 10332 Manchester Road 1727 Park Ave. Kirkwood, MO Contact your travel agent today! St. Louis, MO 314.858.1085 314.231.2537 thewoodcask.com squareonebrewery.com 28

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whiskey business

Springfield, Missouri, favorite Scotch & Soda is now serving its staggering selection of Scottish and American whiskey in Bentonville, Arkansas, on p. 33. photography by ana pierce


Written by sarah kloepple

|

photography by zach bauman

The technique of fat washing might sound unappealing, but the goal is to pack cocktails with richer texture and flavor.

FAT-WASHING 101 Bartenders infuse their choice of fat – oil, milk, animal fat – with a spirit and freeze the concoction overnight. The fat solidifies on top of the liquid and is scraped off, leaving only the flavor and texture of the fat. Once the spirit is strained with a sieve or a similar filter, it’s smooth and ready to add to a tasty cocktail.


milk + whiskey KANSAS CITY. At The Rieger, bar manager Brock Schulte milk-washes many of his cocktails – but that doesn’t mean there’s a dairy flavor in your drink. “You don’t ever taste milk,” he says. Rather, you get its texture. For Schulte, milk washing is a technique to clarify and preserve. He’s been using it in drinks for the past two-and-a-half years, and the cocktails have been pretty popular. For his Lowland Jack, Schulte first macerates pears with whiskey. To clarify the spirit of any tannic flavors from the fruit, he milk washes the batch with whole milk and strains it through a coffee filter. “What I really enjoy about the technique is the texture I get,” Schulte says. “I still have casein [the protein found in milk] in there, but when I shake it in the drink, it acts like an egg white. I get this nice, frothy, full-bodied drink that’s very chug-able.” Schulte has also used browned butter fat washes with bourbon and rum. He thinks a fat-washed cocktail has a place on any drink menu. “We will always have one at any restaurant or bar I’m at,” he says. “It allows you to pack a lot of flavor into something and still make a cocktail really quickly.”

816.471.2177, theriegerkc.com

ONLINE EXTRA

Visit feastmagazine.com for a step-by-step guide to fat washing using the The Rieger’s Lowland Jack recipe.

duck fat + benedictine ST. LOUIS. Beverage director Ben Bauer has regularly featured a

fat-washed cocktail at The Libertine in Clayton, Missouri, for the past year and a half. Last fall he served the Preakness, featuring duck fat-washed Benedictine, rye whiskey, Italian vermouth and Angostura bitters. “Benedictine already [has] a fairly silky texture,” Bauer says. “This just amplifies that a lot and adds a ton of flavor to the cocktail.” In general, he says the process of fat washing is easier than it seems. Home mixologists can heat their chosen fat in a saucepan and infuse it with any other flavoring agent – such as an orange peel – and mix it with a spirit. Store the mixture in an airtight container for four hours until cool, and then leave it in the freezer overnight before straining it. Bauer uses cheesecloth for straining but says a coffee filter works well, too. He says the process makes the cocktail silky-smooth, yet still clean and not oily. “That’s a big part of it for me,” he says. “The texture in cocktails is something that can kind of fall by the wayside, but it’s super important.” 314.862.2999, libertinestl.com

duck fat + whiskey COLUMBIA, MO. There’s only about 50 seats inside Flyover in Columbia,

Missouri, but since the restaurant and bar debuted this summer, there’s usually a line out the door before it opens for service. Beverage director and co-owner Dan Dethrow leads the bar program, and depending on his mood that day you might find a fat-washed Sazerac on the menu. Dethrow – whose father, Jerry Dethrow, is the former owner of local favorite Booches – says the restaurant goes through a fair amount of duck breasts, so he has plenty of duck fat on hand for fat washing. He melts a tablespoon of duck fat into a pan and combines it with a liter or two of rye whiskey. After the mixture has cooled to room temperature, he sticks it in the freezer before he leaves for the night. Dethrow add that customers are either surprised or hesitant when they hear or see the words “fat washed.” “Overall, once people try it, they really like it – especially whiskey drinkers,” he says. “It adds a richness that’s unique; it almost adds more of the smoke flavor.” Dethrow says Flyover will continue to experiment with fat-washed cocktails because it connects the kitchen and bar operations and leads to less food waste. “It’s fun to see the blurring of the line between what’s culinary and what’s mixology,” he says. 573.825.6036, flyovercomo.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, restaurants, breweries, wineries and coffee shops. Jackson sTreeT Brewco WriTTen By SaraH Kloepple

photography by Kindra Kaempfe

PERRYVILLE, MO. Last April, Perry County, Missouri, got its first brewery in more than 100 years. Jackson Street BrewCo owner Carisa Stark is also behind Mary Jane Burgers & Brew, which is only a few doors down from the new brewery. Stark says she’s always wanted to brew her own beer; the original plan was to build a barrel system inside the restaurant. Because Mary Jane has been so successful, Stark decided to purchase a separate building for the brewery, which also houses a private event space. With head brewers Matthew Ruesler – who is also executive chef and co-owner – and John Sadler, Jackson Street now serves six house beers on tap. Standouts include its popular Villainous Stout, made with roasted espresso beans, and a kolsch made with local honey. In the 70-seat tasting room, patrons can munch on pizzas made in Jackson Street’s wood-fired pizza oven. Try the bestselling Salida topped with grilled chicken, roasted poblano peppers, mozzarella, cream cheese and Mary Jane’s smoked porter barbecue sauce. The brewery also hosts live music on two small stages. “We designed [the brewery] for someone to spend the afternoon here, sample the beer, tour the brewhouse and just enjoy the space,” Stark says.

719.671.8235, jstreetbrewco.com

GezelliG Tap House and BoTTlesHop Story and photography mabel Suen

ST. LOUIS. the beer selection at Gezellig Tap House and Bottleshop is a thing of brewed beauty. nearly 700 different bottled varieties occupy an enormous illuminated cooler, while 28 more draft options await behind the bar. the bar-meets-bottle shop debuted in the grove in december, providing a cozy new gathering place for beer-lovers. owner and certified cicerone brandon Cavanagh developed his concept around the dutch idea of conviviality – gezellig – to create a place for St. louis’ booming craft beer scene to convene.

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TasTe Written by Jenny Vergara

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photography by angela C. bond

KANSAS CITY. it has been a whirlwind year for Christian and andrea Joseph. a year

guests can create their own six packs to-go out of selections from across the globe or simply crack open a cold one at the bar. Choose from bottles sorted by geographic region as well as seasonal special releases on tap including stouts, wild ales, sour beers and imports. there’s also a selection of ciders, meads, wines, gluten-free beers, non-alcoholic options and cocktails; look for a small plates menu later this year.

after opening their popular modern italian restaurant, plate, in Kansas City’s brookside neighborhood in december 2015, they debuted a new wine-tasting room, Taste, underneath the restaurant (and next door to their third venture, Season + Square, an artisan food and spice shop). taste, which has the luxurious feel of a european wine cellar, will also serve as a private event room. it seats 12 to 30 people at two handsome, family-style tables and features a separate side entrance to access the space directly. taste features an impressive temperature-controlled wine cellar that also serves as a décor element behind glass walls. the cellar offers higher-end bottles of wine, with a list that focuses on grapes grown in italy, central europe and California, with bottles costing upwards of $100, but you can catch free pop-up wine tastings on facebook. taste also offers plate executive chef brian mehl a second prep kitchen, allowing him to cater private events downstairs while cooking for restaurant guests upstairs.

314.833.5532, gezelligstl.com

816.333.5551, platekc.com/taste.-1.html


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joshua widner

Café * Deli Grocery

co-owner, scotch & soda

q&A

Serving Lunch Daily, Breakfast on Sat & Sun

story and photography by ana pierce

BenTonVILLe, AR. cocktail hotspot Scotch & Soda has been a staple in

springfield, Missouri’s downtown scene since it opened in october 2012. co-owned by andrew heilman and Joshua Widner (pictured right), the bar transports guests back to the 1930s and 1940s, with prewar charm alongside its signature cocktails. there are scotch flights, rotating draft cocktails and bites ranging from house pâté to cuban sandwiches. after nearly five years, heilman and Widner are adding a second location in bentonville, arkansas, a town just south of the Missouri-arkansas border.

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What do you bring to the Bentonville community? scotch & soda is a classic cocktail bar that specializes in scottish and american whiskey. our bentonville location will focus on growing and curating a large spirit portfolio. We have hopes of being recognized as the largest whiskey portfolio in the state of arkansas. What’s your vision for the new location? the design, décor and atmosphere stay true to the original in springfield, Missouri. there are subtle differences in some building materials and the layout of the dining floor due to spatial restrictions, but we feel safe to say that any patron that has stepped foot in the springfield location will feel right at home in bentonville. What about the menu? one of the most exciting expansions with the bentonville location is the addition of a fully functional commercial kitchen. We’re very excited to expand our food offerings to a full dinner menu consisting of small plates, entrées and large, family-style boards that are able to feed anywhere from two to six people. We also serve a full bar menu all day consisting of traditional bar snacks like our house nuts and scotch jerky, along with an array of house-prepared charcuterie and cheese options. Fresh oysters will be added to the bar menu in the near future; they’ll be flown in daily and range in sizes and varietals based on freshness and availability. We are currently developing a lunch menu, as well, that we hope to launch in the coming months. in time, our scotch & soda bentonville location will be a full-fledged operating restaurant, serving three menus a day. What is your philosophy for Scotch & Soda? our philosophy is very simple: We strive to bring education and fun to all guests through exceptional customer service and a large portfolio of food and drink options. the quality of our product is something that we pride ourselves on. We make handcrafted cocktails with high-quality, fresh ingredients in hopes to ensure that anyone who walks through our doors will be able to find something they will enjoy. Whiskey is important to us. We strive daily to learn, taste and serve more of it. our whiskey portfolio is something that will always be changing and evolving. Why scotch? personally, scotch holds a special place in my heart because of the people i was raised by. there has always been a bottle of scotch in my family’s household for as long as i can remember; there always will be. also, when heilman and i opened our first location in 2012, springfield lacked a decent whiskey portfolio. We realized there was a void in the city, and it just happened to be something we really loved and were passionate about. it was an easy choice.

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Clarified JuiCe Story and recipe by Matt Seiter photography by Jonathan gayMan

Clarified JuiCe Yields | 1 quart |

1 kg fresh juice, strained of as much pulp as possible 200 g water 2.4 g agar agar powder

| preparation | line a fine-mesh strainer with a dampened cloth or cheesecloth and place it over a vessel large enough to hold 1 quart juice. in a large saucepot, add water and agar agar and whisk until incorporated. Turn to medium heat and whisk until boiling. Remove from heat and slowly add juice, whisking constantly. Once incorporated, let rest about 15 minutes. After it has set into a gel, use whisk to break it up. Pour mixture into prepared fine-mesh strainer and allow to strain; this may take anywhere from 1 hour to 3 hours, depending on how thick the dampened cloth is. Use immediately or refrigerate up to 2 days.

Clear Daiquiri SerVeS | 1 | 2 oz white rum ¾ oz clarified lime juice ½ oz simple syrup ice 1 thinly sliced lime wheel (for garnish)

| preparation | in a mixing glass, combine first three ingredients. add ice and stir for 30 seconds. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Float lime wheel in drink and serve.

Clear SCrewDriver SerVeS | 1 | ice 2 oz vodka 4 oz clarified orange juice 1 orange wheel (for garnish)

| preparation | in an ice-filled collins glass, combine vodka and orange juice. garnish with a half-moon orange wheel and serve.

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there’s been a growing trend over the past few years of crystal-clear drinks with unexpected flavor. imagine having a cocktail that looks like a standard Martini, but upon your first sip you realize it’s a daiquiri. this is the magic of clarified juices. the process of clarifying juice is extremely simple; if you’ve made Jell-o before, you can make clarified juice. the only special

equipment you need is a scale that measures in grams. that’s the key to this process because you’re dealing with liquid and powder in weight, not volume. you’ll also need a fine-mesh strainer and agar agar, a powdered plant protein you can find at specialty markets and health-food stores. try any juice you’d like – we recommend orange or lime.

Matt Seiter is co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild (USBG)’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program, author of the dive bar of cocktail bars, bar manager at BC’s Kitchen, and a bar and restaurant consultant.


WINE

josh edwards lanni edwards co-owner

cave vineyard’s 2010 cHamBourcin written by Hilary HedGeS

ProvenAnce: Ste. Genevieve, Missouri PAIrIngs: Pork • Goat cheese • Beef stew • Barbecue

this Chambourcin from Cave Vineyard is the perfect Missouri wine to enjoy curled up next to the fire. it’s dry and medium-bodied, with bold aromas and flavors of dried fruit and oak, followed by hints of tobacco, smoke and leather. it was produced from 100 percent estate-grown grapes and aged in Missouri oak barrels for four years, giving it a smooth and slightly spicy finish. this vintage earned a silver medal at the 2016 Finger lakes international wine Competition. you can find it at Cave’s tasting room in Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, where the winery also offers housemade biscotti pairings from april to november: this spring, try pairing the Chambourcin with almond biscotti. 573.543.5284, cavevineyard.com Hilary Hedges is a former newsie whose passion for wine led her out of the newsroom and into the cellar. She is currently director of sales and marketing and assistant winemaker at Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City.

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Prairie artisan ales’ ‘merica written by brandon niCkelSon

sTyle: Saison Farmhouse ale (7.5% abV) PAIrIngs: Light salads • Grilled chicken

Prairie Artisan Ales is one of our favorite breweries in the U.S. the tulsa, oklahoma-based brewery produces unbelievable stouts and puckering sours, while constantly keeping us looking to what’s coming next. However, ‘Merica takes a much more traditional approach: it’s a wonderfully simple belgian-style saison that delivers in a big way. blending old-world style with a touch of the new, ‘Merica has a light flavor with a robust, malty backend. the featured nelson-Sauvin hops add a surprising and delicious vinous element. 918.302.3003, prairieales.com Brothers Brandon and Ryan Nickelson are available to help with beer picks and pairing recommendations at their store, Craft Beer Cellar, a craft beer shop located at 8113 Maryland Ave. in Clayton, Missouri. To learn more, call 314.222.2444 or visit craftbeercellar.com/clayton.

SPIRIT

Pinckney Bend distillery’s HiBiscus Gin written by Matt Sorrell

ProvenAnce: new Haven, Missouri (46.6% abV) Try IT: in a play on the classic aviation cocktail

573.237.5559, pinckneybend.com When he’s not writing, Matt Sorrell can be found slinging drinks at Planter’s House in St. Louis’ Lafayette Square or bartending at events around town with his wife, Beth, for their company, Cocktails Are Go.

manager, smoke brewing co. written by SaraH kloePPle

lee’s sUMMIT, Mo. if Josh and lanni edwards have their way,

lee’s Summit, Missouri, will soon have a brewery to call its own. the husband-and-wife team, along with Josh’s father, Jeff, plan to open Smoke Brewing Co. this winter, complete with a 12-tap-handle taproom and gastropub, this winter. Josh and Jeff have been homebrewing for about 10 years; that experience mixed with Josh and lanni’s creative sides and passion for food ultimately inspired them to start serious plans for a brewery. “i’ve always wanted to do something other than construction, so it was a good outlet for that,” says Josh, who’s also a general contractor. lanni will run front-of-house operations; Josh and Jeff brought on bert lightle as brewmaster. Smoke brewing Co. plans to have six core beers and six other seasonal or collaborative varieties. the restaurant will focus on elevated barbecue – Josh and Jeff also own a competition barbecue team – and feature craft cocktails and an extensive wine list. Why bring a brewery to Lee’s Summit? i was raised in lee’s Summit; i’ve always been in love with downtown lee’s Summit. it’s a very quaint, neat little area that, as time progresses, is becoming more and more of an entertainment destination. there’s a few restaurants down here [that are] outside the norm… but we felt like we didn’t want to fight with people for customers – there’s no competition barbecue in lee’s Summit and there’s no brewery. –Josh Edwards on a Saturday evening, the streets are just flooded with people... it’s wonderful that there are cool, fun places. we originally looked at a more industrial type of space and were going to do just a tap house. but we have three little kids, so it’s important to us that, one, there’s good food and, two, it’s family friendly. –Lanni Edwards Tell us about the beers. we’ll do a wide spectrum. Personally, my taste tends toward malt-forward beers, but [i understand] that hop-heads make the craft beer market. we will definitely have hop-forward beers. the brewmaster we hired kind of comes from that school; i think we’ll have a good mix. where i drink mostly porters and stouts, he’s more of an iPa guy. i feel like that rounds us out. –J.E. What will the taproom and restaurant look like? we are going with a more modern design with warm elements… this building is about 100 years old. it was really dark, and we took out the front of the building and are putting on a glass garage door to brighten and lighten it up. we completely gutted it; we took every single piece out of there and started from scratch. –L.E. What will be on the menu? we’re going to do a smoked meatloaf sandwich and barbecue tacos… our pulled brisket tacos will have cilantro, Feta and a verde sauce. we’ll also have candied bacon as an appetizer. –J.E. we have a signature cocktail, Jameson and bacon [Jameson and ginger beer with a slice of bacon]. Strangely, when you eat the bacon, it kind of takes some of the whiskey flavor, and it’s incredible. –L.E.

PHotoGraPHy by zaCH baUMan

Hibiscus has been used as a flavoring agent in drinks the world over for centuries, and it turns out it’s a great match with gin. the folks at award-winning Pinckney Bend Distillery in new Haven, Missouri, realized this while creating the distillery’s popular rose-colored tonic syrup. the tart, cranberry notes of hibiscus pair quite nicely with Pinckney bend’s american Gin; the hibiscus subtly blends with the base gin’s botanical flavor. you can certainly sip the hibiscus gin solo, but it really shines when paired with citrus, some mild sweetness and an egg white in a cocktail.

q&A

facebook.com/smokebrew Inspired Local Food Culture

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Dining

You Think

: CT USITORS GUIDE A T N S CO UR VI

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by the books

Lemon Gem Kitchen Goods is your new one-stop kitchen shop in St. Louis on p. 42. photography by cheryl waller


Underdog Wine Co. WrITTeN BY JeNNY VerGArA

KANSAS CITY. ryan and Jenny sciara proudly

opened the second location of their popular crestwood neighborhood wine shop, Underdog Wine Co., in November in Kansas city’s union hill neighborhood. Located on the first floor of the McGee Building, ryan’s carefully selected stable of premium “underdog” wines from small producers and more exclusive wineries has earned him a loyal following. The shotgun space looks similar to the original, with wines organized by weight, body and price. The union hill shop is 965 square feet – 400 square feet larger than the flagship location – which leaves room for a larger selection of craft beer, spirits, mixers and sake, as well.

phoToGrAphY BY ANNA peTroW

816.581.5757, underdogwinekc.com

WrITTeN BY NANcY sTILes

zing anything tea zinger infusion set Warm up this month with freshly brewed infused tea at home. Zing Anything’s hot and cold tea infuser gift set includes a stainless steel bottle that keeps tea hot or cold for four to six hours; a steeper basket to brew loose-leaf tea; a grater for ingredients such as ginger, turmeric and orange peel; and a citrus press. The infusion set makes it easy to keep your New Year’s resolutions: Avoid sugary drinks in favor of metabolism-boosting tea on the go. For more information or to purchase the infusion set, visit zinganything.com. phoTo courTesY ZING ANYThING

farberware food huggers Don’t waste money on plastic wrap that you use once and throw away. Farberware’s food huggers are an environmentally friendly alternative to plastic wrap. seal lemons, cucumbers, zucchini, avocados, peppers, tomatoes and more. The BpA-free silicone food huggers are dishwasher safe for easy cleaning. For more information or to purchase the food huggers, visit farberware.com. phoTo courTesY FArBerWAre WAre re

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A Big Easy Murder Interactive Comedy Murder Mystery It' s Nawlins' ! The Big Easy! Bitsy Jones is getting her crew together to plan their float for the Mardi Gnis Parade! Carlos Violincello, the well known mobster and concert violinist, is paying for everything. What can go wrong? Plenty! No wonder Bitsy ends up DEAD! The pirates, John Lafeet and his wench, Anne Bonny, try to figure out “whodunit.” Play your part. Join us and with your help, we can fmd out who committed the Big Easy Murder. Make your reservations now by calling 314-533-9830

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Join Us For Valentine' s Day Chi Mangia Bene Vive Bene! "to eat Well is to live Well" Proudly serving authentic italian Food in a Family atmosphere. Party Pans to Go! MaKe yoUr Valentine' s reserVation early! need to feed a crowd? try our party pans for a delicious meal for any size group! Featuring Daily lunch & Dinner specials

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q&A

jeff hirleman and mollie lothman co-owners, mclain’s market Written By April Fleming

oVeRLAnD PARK, KS. Since purchasing the historic Waldo institution McLain’s Bakery two and a half years ago, brother-and-sister team Jeff Hirleman and Mollie Lothman have had a vision for a fresh and more modern counterpart to the traditional bakery. Yet for their new endeavor, rather than choosing a Kansas City neighborhood known for its concentration of local eateries, the two chose to open McLain’s Market in Overland Park, Kansas, at 106th and Roe, just blocks from where they grew up. Judging by how busy McLain’s Market is at all hours of the day, this is just what Overland Park diners wanted.

Why did you decide to open McLain’s Market? From the very beginning, in our dream world, we wanted to open a place in this part of town. We started looking for a spot about a year and a half ago... [The new location] was a gas station that had closed about five years ago. We wanted this spot because we grew up out here, and there’s so much opportunity here. Jeff really had the vision to create the market. –Mollie Lothman One thing we have encountered from the very beginning with the bakery is that all of the recipes were 70 years old, and peoples’ tastes have changed. We wanted the chance to modernize a little bit. –Jeff Hirleman How is the market different from the bakery? We want the market to be a place where you wouldn’t have to know anything about the bakery,

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photogrAphy By AngelA c. Bond

though it would [feel] familiar to those who did know. It has the same classics as McLain’s. –J.H. We’ve added options for all hours of the day. We also have lunch and dinner with wine and beer, and we have appetizers. Because of the location, we have more evening traffic around this place. We had to open and see where our customers went with it; we knew our pastries would be popular but what about the rest of it? But from the first day, our lunch took off, so we’ve focused in that direction. –M.L. Your focus on local foods and products is unique to this part of town, too. We use McGonigle’s Market and Local Pig meat. We also make our dressings and sauces in house. –J.H. We definitely try to use a lot of local products, [like] Thou Mayest and Post coffee, and we try to use local retailers for our little retail spot. We have local jams, local honey, Shatto milk. We are also working on an upcoming collaboration with [T-shirt maker] Charlie Hustle… We were excited to open a spot where we could keep the classics, but take a shot at trying some cool new stuff. –M.L. 913.242.8222, mclainskc.com

Power Vegetables! Written By heAther riske

people often make resolutions to eat more vegetables in the new year, but that doesn’t have to mean flavorless salads and steamed broccoli. in Lucky Peach’s newest cookbook, Power Vegetables!, author peter meehan promises to deliver “weeknight all-caps cooking for people looking to eat more vegetable-centered meals.” the dishes (like a vibrant fuchsia borscht or kabocha squash toasts) are packed with flavor and push the boundaries of working with vegetables – you won’t find any pasta recipes, grain bowls or dishes with an egg thrown on top. instead, look for starters, salads, soups, breads and entrées that range from globally inspired (tabbouleh, mushroom-mapo tofu and cauliflower chaat) to recipes from some of the country’s top chefs, including david chang of momofuku (who co-founded Lucky Peach with meehan) and ivan orkin of ivan ramen. you’ll learn how to dip your vegetables (with recipes for aïoli, bagna càuda and hummus), how to pickle them (into pickled napa cabbage or giardiniera) and discover how everyday kitchen tools – like a box grater – can transform vegetables into something you’ll actually crave. By Peter Meehan and the editors of Lucky Peach, luckypeach.com


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Gallagher's Restaurant Serving the best fried chicken, house-ground burgers and premium steaks for over a decade! • 2016 Voted #1 BEST BURGER - by St. Louis Magazine Readers • 2016 Ian Froeb's Selected STL Top 100 Restaurant in St. Louis • 2015 & 2016 Voted #1 BEST FRIED CHICKEN by St. Louis Post-Dispatch & RFT Readers 114 W. Mill St. • Waterloo, IL • 618.939.9933 • gallagherswaterloo.com

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Inspired Local Food Culture

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Lemon Gem Kitchen Goods written by sarah kloePPle

ST. LOUIS. beth styles was inspired to open Lemon Gem

PhotoGraPhy by Cheryl waller

Kitchen Goods in st. louis when her tart pan went missing. she was in her Compton heights house and in desperate need of a break from unpacking. but her new lemon tart recipe would have to wait – she had to drive more than 20 minutes to the nearest local store for a new pan. after wasting almost an hour of her day driving there and back, she recognized the need for a neighborhood kitchen store. “i was sitting on the idea and letting it percolate,” styles says. “i couldn’t get it out of my head, and then an opportunity came up.” that opportunity was rise Coffee house, located in the Grove neighborhood. lemon Gem co-owner Jessie Mueller, who owns the building where rise was formerly located, along with her husband, spoke to styles about how rise would be moving to a larger space next door – and styles knew exactly what could fill the space. lemon Gem opened in late november, offering a wide variety of kitchen supplies. you’ll find the essentials – pots, pans, spatulas, spoons – and other fun and functional items like aprons, rolling pins, short-stack edition cookbooklets, gifts and more. brands range from the big-name and well-known to locally made and small-batch artisan goods. one side of the upstairs area even features a cookbook library adorned with comfy reading chairs. “the Grove has done such a great job of creating this creative, open-minded, community-centered vibe,” styles says. the shop’s name, by the way, doesn’t refer to that initial lemon tart recipe or the missing pan. styles just came across it during her research. “lemon gem is a variety of marigold, which is a fairly common edible flower,” she says. “it made me smile when i said it.” 314.696.2744, lemongem.com

artisan products sneaky greens seasoning blends written by bethany Christo

collin garrity woodworking cutting boards written by sarah kloePPle

GREENFIELD, MO. working more fruits and veggies into your diet is now as simple

as turning a grinder or tipping a shaker. Greenfield, Missouri-based Sneaky Greens mixes locally grown kale and mustard greens into seasoning blends like mineral-rich himalayan pink salt crystals, whole black peppercorns and taco seasoning. try Pizza My heart, a blend of organic garlic, onion, fennel, himalayan pink salt, pepper, basil, oregano, parsley and thyme that’s hand-blended with kale and mustard greens. each 1.4-ounce shaker contains one full bunch of kale – but your family would be none the wiser based on flavor alone. sneaky Greens seasonings can be purchased online and at retailers in the springfield, Missouri, area, including MaMa Jean’s natural Market, harter house and Price Cutter. sneakygreensfood.com Photo Courtesy sneaky Greens

ST. LOUIS. woodworker Collin Garrity believes you shouldn’t have to sacrifice function for visual appeal. “i got this amazing cutting board [from an artist in Chicago] with this beautiful, thin handle,” he says. “but i haven’t used it in six months because i’m scared of damaging it.” Garrity, who’s been working with wood since college, will release a new line of cutting boards made from walnut, maple and cherry under his Collin Garrity Woodworking label in March. try a beefy, butcher block-style cutting board that doubles as a cheese board or table centerpiece. “People care about how things work, but they want something they can take good pictures of, too,” he says. or test his thinner, platelike cutting board perfect for chopping something small like an onion or head of garlic. Garrity’s products, including bowls, vases and rolling pins, can be found in the st. louis area at urban Matter, twigs & Moss and lemon Gem kitchen Goods.

collingarrity.com Photo Courtesy Collin Garrity woodworkinG

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Alton Restaurant Week Jan. 20 - 29, 2017 • AltonRestaurantWeek.com

Unleash your inner foodie and discover amazing new restaurants and menus throughout the Meeting of the Great Rivers, All Around Alton. Dine at any one of the locally owned restaurants and sample their exclusive restaurant week menus at fixed price lunch and dinner options. As an added bonus, receive a FREE Restaurant Week glass when you present a receipt from a participating restaurant at the Alton Visitor Center, 200 Piasa St., Alton, while supplies last.

Participating Restaurants: State Street Market Rib City Alton Johnson’s Corner Grafton Oyster Bar Castelli’s at 255 Grafton Winery & Brewhaus My Just Desserts Great Rivers Tap & Grill Chez Marilyn

6th Annual Restaurant Week!

Bluff City Grill Old Bakery Beer Tony’s Restaurant Journey Restaurant at Argosy Alton Carver’s Morrison’s Irish Pub Gentelin’s Roper’s Reagle Beagle

My Just Desserts My Just Desserts –famous for our homemade pies, ½ pound chicken salad sandwiches and our tollhouse brownies...just to name a few! We also serve a variety of soups, salads and sandwiches. Our menu changes daily based upon what the kitchen is craving so you’ll never have the same thing two days in a row. Stop by any day of the week between 11am and 4pm. We’re located downtown in historic Alton. 31 E. Broadway | Alton, IL 62002 618.462.5881 | myjustdesserts.org

Chez marilyn

journey Journey features mouthwatering steaks, burgers, handcrafted appetizers, and homemade desserts. Don’t forget the extensive wine & craft beer list. All with the best views of the river and landmark Alton bridge. 1 Piasa Street | Alton, IL 62002 618.474.7647 argosyalton.com/Dining/Journey Thursday-Sunday 4pm-9pm Monday-Wednesday Closed

Lunch Special: Choose from select list; soup, a salad and half a sandwich for $10 Reuben, Turkey Club Panini, Chicken Salad or Roast Beef Panini 2 Dinners for $25: Choose 2 salads, 2 pastas and 2 glasses of wine Hair w/ Shrimp & Asparagus, Angel Hair w/grilled Italian Sausage, Tortellini or Fettuccine Carbonara Dinner for $25: Choose one appetizer, one entree, one dessert and a glass of wine Angel Hair w/ Shrimp & Asparagus, Tortellini Chicken Florentine or Tenderloin Kabob w/choice of Baked Spinach or Potato

119 W 3rd St. | Alton, IL 62002 618.465.8071 | facebook.com/Chez-Marilyn

bluff city grill

Castelli’s@255

Restaurant Week Specials $10 - Bison Burger: 6-ounce Char grilled bison burger topped with white cheddar and cabernet onions served with crisp lettuce and tomatoes on a split top gourmet bun served with our house made chips $25 - Vegetable Spring Rolls: marinated mixed vegetable spring rolls wrapped in a won ton & fried golden served with a Szechwan dipping sauce Basil & Parmesan Crusted CodTail: Basil pesto, parmesan & panko crusted cod tail flat grilled and served over Yukon gold sage whipped potatoes & a pan roasted vegetable medley

Restaurant Week Specials (no substitutions, dine in only): $10 lunch – 3 Pc. Chicken (breast, leg & thigh); choice of potato or veg, dinner salad, coffee or tea and carrot cake. $25 Dinner for 1 – Moonlight Delight with 4 Breaded Shrimp, choice of potato or veg, dinner salad, coffee or tea and carrot cake. $25 Dinner for 2 – Pasta and Salad for for 2; choice of Spaghetti, Mostaccioli, Tortellini or Fettuccine, with coffee or tea and carrot cake. 3400 Fosterburg Rd. | Alton, IL 62002 618.462.4620 | castellis255.com

OPen 7 daYS a Week dining Room: Sunday-Thursday 11-9 Friday & Saturday 11-10 | Bar: 11-1am everyday

Chocolate Peanut Butter Bars 424 East Broadway | Alton, IL 62002 618.433.8288 | bluffcitygrillalton.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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We know you’ve been waiting...

Not much longer...

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quite the pear

Warm up chilly winter nights with spiced pears baked in rich cream on p. 50. photography by jennifer silverberg


healthy appetite

Hearty Grain Bowl story, recipe AND photogrAphy by sherrie cAstellANo

Hearty Grain Bowl witH root veGetaBles, Beans and parsley oil serves | 2 |

parsley Oil (Yields ¼ cup) ¼ cup fresh parsley, finely chopped ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 1 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar 1 clove garlic, grated ¼ tsp sea salt ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper Grain BOwl 1 cup carrots, scrubbed and peeled, medium dice 1 cup Brussels sprouts, halved 1 cup cauliflower florets 2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, divided sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 cup cooked white beans 2 cups cooked sorghum parsley oil (recipe below)

| preparation – parsley oil | in a small bowl or jar, combine all ingredients and whisk to combine. set aside.

| preparation – grain bowl | preheat oven to 425°F. line a baking sheet with parchment paper. in a large bowl, toss carrots, brussels sprouts and cauliflower in 1 tablespoon oil. spread evenly onto prepared baking sheet, season with salt and pepper and roast in oven for 25 minutes or until tender and golden. in a large bowl, combine cooked beans with remaining oil and a pinch of salt and pepper. set aside. Divide cooked sorghum into two bowls and top with roasted vegetables. Add beans and drizzle with parsley oil. serve warm.

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with Root Vegetables, beans and PaRsley oil the new year is a time for rebirth and renewal. in January, we seek to refresh our lives with the usual resolutions of healthy eating and more exercise. when i was a health coach, one of the most-asked questions was, “how do i eat healthy without spending a ton of time in the kitchen?” My answer: grain bowls. Grain bowls are an easy way to pack many nutrient-dense foods into one meal. they’re also versatile and vibrant, and because flavor combinations are so easy to mix and match, you could eat one every day for lunch or dinner and never tire of them. the best part of grain bowls is that they don’t

require you to follow a strict recipe – you really only need to cook grains, roast vegetables and whip up a vibrant sauce or dressing to drizzle over top. this hearty bowl is made with sorghum, one of my favorite gluten-free grains. if you’ve never made sorghum before, it cooks similar to rice. you can find it at most grocery stores and in bulk sections at specialty food stores; brown rice or farro also work beautifully in this recipe. roasted root vegetables and marinated beans, for a touch of plant-based protein, make up the toppings, and from-scratch parsley oil is drizzled on top for a boost of flavor.

Sherrie Castellano is a health coach, photographer and private chef based in St. Louis. She writes and photographs the seasonally inspired vegetarian and gluten-free blog With Food + Love. She has contributed work to Driftless Magazine, Vegetarian Times, Go Gluten-Free Magazine, Food52 and Urban Outfitters, among others. You can find her hanging with her aviation-enthusiast husband, sipping Earl Grey tea, green juice and/or bourbon.


Eclectic Japanese cuisine | Serving the freshest fish in STL more than just sushi |#BaikuSushi

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Pork Belly fried green tomato tomato jam chipotle aĂŻoli

8100 Maryland Ave in Clayton | herbies.com

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myStery Shopper

Meet: Black lava Salt story and recipe by shannon weber photography by jennifer silverberg

Black lava Salt-and-PePPer chicken WingS With SPicy PineaPPle-Mango diPPing Sauce You can find sambal oelek at specialty or international grocery stores. serves | 4 |

Dipping Sauce 1½ cups pineapple juice 1 cup fresh or frozen mango chunks 2 tsp sambal oelek chicken WingS 3 Tbsp plus 2 tsp olive oil, divided 3 lbs chicken wings 1½ tsp kosher salt, divided 1½ tsp black lava salt, lightly crushed, divided, plus more for serving 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper, divided 1½ Tbsp sesame oil 2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced 10 scallions, white and light green parts sliced into thin rings, dark green parts reserved, plus more for garnish 1 fresh serrano chile, seeds removed, finely diced 4 limes, divided (to serve)

| preparation – dipping sauce | add juice and mango to blender; purée until smooth. pour into medium saucepan, add sambal oelek, and set over medium heat. once mixture boils, reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until reduced to 1 cup, about 35 minutes. set aside to cool slightly.

| preparation – chicken wings | preheat oven to 400°f and line a lipped sheet pan with aluminum foil; brush 2 teaspoons oil on pan. in a large bowl, toss wings with 1 tbsp oil until coated. spread in a single layer on pan, sprinkle with half of kosher salt, black lava salt and pepper; flip and sprinkle other side with remaining salts and pepper. bake until golden, 50 to 60 minutes. heat remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and sesame oil in a skillet over medium heat. add garlic, scallions and chile and cook 3 minutes, stirring frequently. reduce heat to low and cook another 5 minutes. remove from heat.

| to serve | transfer chicken wings to a large, heatproof bowl. add hot oil-garlic-scallion-chile mixture and toss to coat; transfer to serving platter. squeeze 1 to 2 limes over wings and sprinkle with uncrushed black lava salt; slice 2 more limes and place on platter. slice a few dark green scallion tips into long, thin ribbons and scatter over top. serve with warm dipping sauce.

this year, lava salt is the new black. What iS it? black lava salt is harvested from the coasts of hawaii and cyprus. the salt is infused with activated charcoal from lava found in those regions, which gives the salt its deep obsidian hue. black lava salt's beauty isn’t just skin deep, either; the charcoal acts as a powerful detoxifier that cleanses the body of impurities, provides essential minerals and improves digestion. if “lava” doesn’t seem like a flavor you’d want to explore, think again. the pyramid-shaped crystals add a subtle earthiness to dishes, with hints of smoke you’d normally associate with charcoal grilling.

What Do i Do With it? in short, everything: it’s just salt with some interesting flavor notes, after all. Most often used as a finishing salt, try it sprinkled over meaty fish like halibut or tuna to add depth without overpowering the dish. try a little over crisp roasted potatoes, roasted root vegetables or brussels sprouts, or toss a little over egg-based dishes and you won’t be disappointed. the same goes for heartier salads and soups which beg for a little smoky depth, especially in colder months. breaking down the crystals also gives them a flexibility they don’t have as a decorative salt. look for black lava salt at local health food stores and specialty grocery stores.

Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as bon appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes that the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and life.


Inspired Local Food Culture | Midwest

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menu options

Baked Spiced pearS in Cream

story and recipe by Gabrielle deMichele photoGraphy by jennifer silverberG

Baked Spiced pearS in cream serves | 4 to 6 |

3

Tbsp room-temperature unsalted butter, divided 4 Tbsp granulated sugar, divided ¼ tsp ground cinnamon 3 ripe pears, peeled, cored and halved ¾ cup heavy cream

| preparation | preheat oven to 375°f. in a round heatproof dish about 10-inch in diameter, spread 1½ tablespoons butter over bottom of dish and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons sugar. in a small bowl, mix together remaining sugar and cinnamon. in the heatproof dish, lay halved pears in a circular pattern, stems pointing inward. Melt remaining 1½ tablespoons butter, and using a silicone brush, cover pears with butter. sprinkle cinnamon-sugar mixture evenly over pears. carefully pour cream over pears and transfer heatproof dish to oven; bake until pears are tender and cream has thickened, about 25 to 30 minutes. remove pears from oven and let cool until just warm or at room temperature; serve immediately.

Winter citrus such as clementines, kumquats and blood oranges get all the glory this time of year, but pears also deserve a spotlight. Members of the rose family, most pears grown in the U.S. are in season through January, while English and Asian pears can be found throughout winter.

France and have a sweet flavor. This month also marks the return of Taylor’s Gold, New Zealand pears that are sweet and juicy and best for eating raw or baking into galettes, crisps or cakes. Bosc or Taylor’s Gold both work well in the following recipe, which adds a touch of spice with cinnamon.

This month, keep your eyes peeled for delicious Bosc and Comice pears at grocery stores. Bosc are all-purpose winter pears with dark gold skin and a sweet, buttery flavor; greenishyellow or red-blushed yellow Comice pears originally hail from

If you can’t find ripe pears at the grocery store, buy the best available and place them in a paper bag for a few days. On day three, press your thumb near the stem – if the skin gives slightly, the pears are ready to use.

chef’s tip pRo potteRY. Proper equipment is an important element of efficient cooking and baking. For this recipe, the heatproof dish you use can impact how the heavy cream dehydrates and thickens the sauce, and how evenly the pears cook to a perfect tender bite. I prefer ceramic or earthenware dishes because they hold heat well and help ingredients do what they’re supposed to do (plus they are lovely-looking pieces perfect for serving).

spice up. Cinnamon comes in many varieties, each with its own flavor. The most common is cassia, which is what’s typically found in home spice racks. This recipe calls for that variety, which comes from China and Indonesia, but most any type of cinnamon will work in this recipe. Ceylon cinnamon comes from Sri Lanka and Madagascar and is much more flavorful (and more expensive) than cassia. Vietnamese cinnamon has an amazing aroma and a strong, spicy flavor.

the menu • Chicken and Ricotta Cheese Dumplings • Salad of Mâche, Goat Cheese and Blood Orange Vinaigrette • Corn Soufflé • Baked Spiced Pears in Cream

LeaRn moRe. In this class, you’ll learn how to make a fresh take

on chicken and dumplings that updates the classic dish with ricotta cheese. You’ll also learn how to make a corn soufflé and how to properly peel and core pears.

get hands-on: Join Feast Magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on Wed., Jan. 25 at 6pm at the des Peres, Missouri, location, to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com or call 314.909.1704. . 24 Turn to p ow to learn h fs are local che g pears preparin th. this mon


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sweet ideas

Brioche Waffles story and recipe by christy augustin photography by cheryl Waller

Brioche Waffles If you can’t find pearl sugar at a specialty grocery store, crushed sugar cubes make a great substitute; just be sure to sift out the granulated sugar, keeping only the chunks. Omit the pearl sugar and this recipe makes one loaf of brioche baked in a 9-inch rectangular loaf pan. Be sure to research baking yeast breads and use an egg wash on top of the loaf. yields | 12 waffles |

½ 4 4 1 3 1¾ 1 1

cup whole milk large eggs cups unbleached all-purpose flour tsp kosher salt Tbsp granulated sugar tsp instant or rapid rise yeast cup room-temperature unsalted butter cup pearl sugar or crushed sugar cubes vegetable oil chocolate sauce (to serve)

| preparation | in a small saucepot, heat milk to scalding, or 180°F, using a candy thermometer to gauge temperature. pour milk into a heatproof bowl and set aside, with candy thermometer, to cool to 110°F. in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, add warm milk and then eggs, flour, salt, sugar and yeast. Mix on medium speed until dough is fully moistened and cleans the sides of the bowl, about 8 minutes. scrape dough off hook, press together into bottom of bowl, cover and let rest for 10 minutes. then add bowl back to stand mixer and begin adding butter on medium speed, increasing speed one setting at a time, until fully incorporated and dough is glossy and smooth, about 8 minutes. add pearl sugar and mix just until incorporated. place dough in an oiled bowl, making sure to coat dough in a little oil, as well, and tightly wrap with plastic wrap; refrigerate dough overnight. turn dough out onto a floured work surface and press into a rectangle 5 inches by 8 inches. using a sharp knife, cut dough into quarters, then each quarter into 3 equal pieces for a total of 12 pieces. round each portion into a ball and set aside to warm to room temperature for 45 minutes; lightly cover bowl with a tea towel. preheat waffle iron on medium-high heat. after dough balls have rested and waffle iron is hot, bake each waffle in iron until a deep golden brown. drizzle with chocolate sauce and serve.

there’s a scene in one of my favorite movies, Blue in the Face, where lily tomlin’s character waxes about where to find a true belgian waffle. she carries a picture torn from a magazine with a giant, fluffy waffle topped with too much fresh whipped cream and fruit. the character’s consensus is that you can’t find that type of “belgian” waffle anymore, but i would argue that you never could – that style of waffle is an american invention and far from the original, so much so that it’s a different dish altogether.

liege waffles, or gaufre de liège, are made from a rich bread dough called brioche studded with pearl sugar. they are rich, chewy and i absolutely love them; the sugar bits liquefy and caramelize in the waffle iron as they bake. brioche waffles are certainly much more complicated to make than american waffles; you’ll need a stand mixer and a bit of patience as the dough needs to rest overnight in the refrigerator. the finished waffles can also be frozen for up to a month and warmed in your toaster for a quick yet indulgent breakfast or snack.

Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. See more at pintsizebakery.com.


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wedding guide A feast-forward guide to the big day

Inspired Local Food Culture

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Feast Magazine’s

First-Annual Wedding Guide

Bachelor & Bachelorette Parties Start Bar

Start Bar in Downtown St. Louis is a tribute to great arcades and a fun throwback option for both bachelor and bachelorette parties. Listen to ’90s music, play iconic arcade and cabinet games from the ‘70s to the ‘00s, and sip on crafted cocktails and boozy slushies and milkshakes.

We picked the brains of local wedding experts to create a wedding guide all about food. From flavor-driven food trucks to food bars and trendy cake alternatives, couples are shying away from the traditional sit-down dinner and getting creative with personal and lighthearted nuptial fare. This section is sure to inspire, and satisfy, all of the brides- and grooms-to-be for their big day.

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Featured Content: • Bachelor & Bachelorette Parties • Rehearsal Dinners • Bridal Showers • Venues • Catering Tips • Food Bars

• • • • • •

Local Delicacies Champagne Guide Cocktails Wedding Cakes Alternative Desserts After-Party Ideas

photography courtesy start bar

Rehearsal Dinners

EdgeWild Restaurant & Winery

EdgeWild Restaurant & Winery in Chesterfield, Missouri, hosts hundreds of wedding-themed events each year in its three distinct private dining spaces, which can fit a range of party sizes and styles based on your needs and wishes. The Barrel Room is ideal for Champagne and dessert receptions, while the fire pit and enclosed patio can fit rehearsal dinner guests and smaller receptions. The Belmont Room, lit up with large windows, is a popular choice for rehearsal dinners and cocktail receptions. Plus, an experienced culinary team, led by executive chef Aaron Baggett, can personalize everything from the menu to the cocktails for any event. 636.532.0550, edgewildwinery.com

photography

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/hreni and sp

ringofrom

edited by bethany christo photography on cover: photography by ©istock.com/ruthblack, amoklv, eugenelucky, cospv, dariazu, maria_lapina, andriikobryn, marketmox, maximshebeko, romanno, alexsfoto photography courtesy ces & judy’s, the cakery bakery, range free, untamed heart photography, clementine’s creamery, spencer pernikoff/ whiskey and soba, butler’s pantry 56

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photography courtesy edgewild restaurant & winery


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Bridal Shower Eats & Treats

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Hummus Plate

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Wedding sets as unique as your Love

Waffle Bar

Celebrate the bride with an elegant (and easy) brunch. Make the waffles ahead of time and keep them warm in the oven, and let guests choose from toppings like fresh berries, chocolate chips, sprinkles, pecans and whipped cream.

photography by ©istock.com/shersor and warrengoldswain

Limeade Punch

Punch allows a shower host to enjoy time with guests rather than playing bartender. Fill a decorative punch bowl with festive fruit slices and boozy (or nonalcoholic) limeade made with fresh lime juice for a refreshing sipper.

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Venues & Reception

Deciding where and when your wedding will take place is one of the earliest, and biggest, choices the bride and groom will make. Factors to consider are the number of guests and how willing they are to travel and the scope

of services you’ll be requesting, but another important facet is the type of venue. Locally, choose from an elegant formal option, a more casual setting or wineries and vineyards in Missouri’s picturesque wine country.

Winery Wedding A customized wedding ceremony at Sugar Creek Winery offers breathtaking views of the Missouri River Valley. The vineyard and hilltop pavilion accommodate up to 250 guests, plus indoor and outdoor options for showers and bachelorette parties of any size. The winery’s personable, in-house wedding coordinator can help with all of the details. 636.987.2400, sugarcreekwineryweddings@gmail.com

photography courtesy sugar creek winery

Formal Setting Willow, a new private venue from Baileys’ Restaurants in St. Louis, is an elegant space for weddings, receptions and rehearsal dinners. Willow has options including an in-house bakery, signature cocktails and vegan, gluten-free and seasonal menus. 314.899.0430, events@baileysrestaurants.com, weddingsinwillow.com

photography by jessica lauren and courtesy baileys’ restaurants

Casual Ambiance photography by ©istock.com/erstudiostok, strike0 and joshuaraineyphotography

Although open to interpretation, a casual setting lends itself to styles like vintage- or rustic-chic, restored-industrial or a backyard bash.

Choose the Right Food to Fit Your Style Your reception is a reflection of you as a couple, and food is a way to share details of your relationship with those around you. Get creative with your menu, and choose a style of service that reflects your personalities: For example, if you two are sociable and into the local food scene, consider having dynamic food stations at your reception – this lets you mingle with guests, try a variety of dishes and offer a more relaxed environment. Ces & Judy’s, a St. Louis catering company, suggests getting started by thinking about likes and dislikes, any dishes significant to your relationship and the time of year you are hosting your wedding. 314.991.6700, cesandjudys.com

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photography courtesy ces & judy’s


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Top 5 Catering Tips

1.

2.

Do your research If you’re set on a caterer like Butler’s Pantry, make sure it’s included on your venue’s list of preferred vendors before booking. Also, look into your venue’s electrical capabilities and share that with your caterer to avoid last-minute disasters.

3.

314.664.7680, butlerspantry.com

Conduct a tasting Depending on your caterer, your tasting may or may not reflect the exact menu items that will be served at the wedding. Make sure the quality and presentation are up to par, and be sure to clarify portion size, seasonal changes and plating options.

4.

Choosing a caterer for your wedding requires advance preparation and careful consideration. Catering options can range from plated dinners to buffets, food stations to family style, to more modern options like food trucks or fondue. We asked some top local catering companies for their advice.

Create a budget and be honest about it If great food is at the top of your list of importance for your big day, be sure to prioritize catering when budgeting. If it isn’t your primary focus, be upfront with your caterer about this. Good caterers can offer creative packaging for any budget. 314.664.7680, butlerspantry.com

Be aware of food allergies

5.

Unless your reception is extremely intimate, chances are there will be someone with a food allergy or dietary restriction in attendance. Plan

3108 Olive st. saint Louis, MO / 314.531.4668 / stlsouthern.com

6 flavors of heat Original | Mild | Medium Hot | Cluck’ Hot | general tso

ahead with your caterer for family members or friends who you know will need alternatives or substitutions. Offer multiple hors d’oeuvres and entrée options, and make sure servers are informed about which guests might require extra attention.

Meet on-site Schedule a meeting with your catering manager before committing. You want a team that works within your budget and incorporates your recommendations so they can deliver the specifics you’re seeking for your big day. This conversation can give you a better idea of the experience you’ll receive. 314.991.6700, cesandjudys.com

1000 SPRUCE ST

BOOK YOUR PARTY TODAY! (314) 338-1065 PARTIES@STARTBARSTL.COM STARTBARSTL.COM

Catering inquiries: elisa@stlsouthern.com or 314.295.8220 Inspired Local Food Culture

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Food Bars

promotion Retire the standard wedding buffet with a do-it-yourself bar. No matter what type of cuisine you choose – and nearly anything can be made into a bar – attendees can customize bites to their tastes. Get creative with displays like using varying height levels and different

shapes and sizes for serveware, and be sure to clearly label all options available. Sweeten the deal with a personal touch like your first-date food or a family recipe. Here, we outline a few food bars that will have guests nibbling all night (which is the point!).

Barbecue Bar As tasty as barbecue is, it can sometimes get messy – especially on a white dress! Keep it clean by serving three-bite pulled pork or brisket sliders and organizing barbecue sauces by style in bottles for easy squeezing.

Photography courtesy milou + olin photography and kristen gardner photography

Potato Bar A spud bar can start with baked potatoes, mashed potatoes, french fries or any other preparation that leads to easy finger food. Display a range of toppings and condiments like chives, bacon, roasted red peppers, avocado and sour cream.

photography courtesy laura gordon photography and natalie franke photography

Popcorn Bar

Flatbread Bar

The perennially popular snack is an inexpensive and whimsical treat at ceremonies and receptions. Give guests the choice between salty and sweet, and set up shakers for sprinkling white Cheddar, ranch, cinnamon and more.

Spice up the traditional cheese and crackers spread: Suspend flatbread on hooks and create a topping station with offerings like fresh mozzarella, charcuterie, seasonal relishes and salsas, and flavored olive oil for drizzling.

photography courtesy pen + paper flowers and tandem tree photography

314.664.7680, butlerspantry.com

photography courtesy butler’s pantry

Slider Bar Sliders are easy for guests to munch on during cocktail hour, grab off a food station at the reception or fuel up when the 10pm hunger hits. Besides burger and salmon patties, customize options with vegetarian versions like a fried green tomato or smoked portobello.

photography courtesy ces & judy’s

S’mores Bar Throwback to your childhood days with a s’mores and hot cocoa bar. Guests can roast their own marshmallows over a candle flame and then assemble the layers. Set up a cocoa station with toppings like mint chips, marshmallows and whipped cream.

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314.991.6700, cesandjudys.com


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Hot Chicken

Local Delicacies

Midwest cuisine is hard to define – although we can pick out food from specific cities like Kansas City-style burnt ends, St. Louis-approved gooey butter cake and Cincinnati chili, the region overall is varied and eclectic, with a few common threads throughout. Whether your guests are from out of town or local, sharing hometown specialties adds a personal touch and makes a buffet, plated dinner or food station more meaningful.

Based in St. Louis, Southern’s hot chicken is marinated, rubbed with secret spices, fried and dipped in habanero-cayenne chile oil. Choose from six heat levels, as well as a variety of traditional Southern sides for your reception. 314.295.8220, stlsouthern.com or elisa@stlsouthern.com

photography by spencer pernikoff/whiskey and soba

Gooey Butter Cake Ice Cream

Cashew Chicken

photography by jessica spencer

Springfield-style cashew chicken is bite-sized morsels of breaded, juicy chicken that’s fried and then smothered in a rich brown gravy, topped with chopped green onions and crushed cashews.

Clementine’s Naughty and Nice Creamery offers a selection of over 80 “naughty” and “nice” flavors like maple-bourbon with salted candied pecans or gooey butter cake, St. Louis’ signature dessert. From the unforgettable ice cream bike and custom flavor creations to its one-ofa-kind vintage ice cream truck, Clementine’s can design a range of experiences tailored to your dream celebration.

Burnt Ends Originating in Kansas City, burnt ends are the crispy, thinner end pieces trimmed off brisket after many hours in the smoker, resulting in a heavily caramelized and intensely smoky crust and a tender, juicy inside.

photography by ©istock.com/zkruger

your special event Cel e brat e at Square One

314.858.6100, clementinescreamery.com

photography courtesy clementine’s creamery

OPEN ALL YEAR

Beautiful scenery, two cozy, indoor fireplaces and wonderful wine!

Exciting Events - Mark Your Calendar Private event sPace seated event up to 48 guests cocktail event up to 60 guests dinner Packages appetizer Buffet / special Limited Menu Prix-Fixe Beer or spirit Paired Menu For inquiries: 314.231.2537 / catering@squareonebrewery.com 1727 Park Ave, St. Louis, MO / www.squareonebrewery.com

Sat., January 21st “Meet the Winemaker and Distiller”

Sat., February 11th “Wine and Pie Pairing”

Learn about Sugar Creek Wines and Delicious Sugar Creek wine paired Judgment Tree Spirit production with pies by Sugar Momma’s. A perfect with food pairings by way to celebrate Valentine’s Day with The Silly Goose restaurant. your special someone.

Reservations Required. Please contact the winery for more information. 636-987-2400. sugarcreekwines.com • For more info: nicole@sugarcreekwines.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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promotion

Champagne Guide

What’s a celebration without a proper toast? Before you choose your bubbly, read on to learn how to discern between different styles and about two options other than Champagne. Cheers!

Styles Champagne refers to sparkling wine made in the Champagne region of France, but many countries produce sparkling wine in a range of styles.

NoNViNtage Nonvintage uses grapes from a blend of harvests, rather than just one year’s. This style typically tastes similar from year to year and is most common.

photography by ©istock.com/gemenacom and poike ViNtage Vintage sparkling wine must be made from grapes from only one year’s harvest. It’s often pricier because winemakers only choose to do this if a harvest measures up in quality.

photography by ©istock.com/ilovemayorova and edwardolive Prestige cuVée This refers to the best of the best, made from the top-rated vineyards in the Champagne region. Two popular versions are Dom Pérignon and Cristal.

photography by ©istock.com/kzenon

photography by ©istock.com/minerva studio and marijakerekes

Know Your Bubbles

CAVA Production-wise, cava is more similar to Champagne, with both sparklers undergoing secondary fermentation within the bottles, rather than a steel tank. However, the Spaniards – where cava is made – have mechanized the process, so cava often has a lower price point. Cava is drier than prosecco, a bit lighter than Champagne, and has a pleasing acidity and notes of citrus and melon.

PROSECCO Prosecco is made in the Veneto region of Italy and is the country’s most recognizable sparkling wine. It’s produced a bit differently than Champagne, resulting a slightly sweeter, less yeasty wine. It’s lighter in body, as well, with larger, looser bubbles. Prosecco is refreshing on its own but also complements cocktails with notes of apple, pear, floral and lemon rind.

Helpful Hints

Although Champagne comes to mind first, prosecco and cava are both excellent and affordable sparkling wine options, as well.

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rosé Sparkling rosé has a bigger body than sparkling white wine and pairs well with a wide variety of food.

 Brut refers to the driest end of the bubbly spectrum, followed by extra-dry, sec (or dry), demi-sec and doux.  Sparkling wine is primarily made from three grape varieties: Chardonnay (white), Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier (both red).

photography by ©istock.com/maximkabb and warrengoldswain


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Handcrafted,

Locally-Sourced

French Macarons Shower your guests with a deliciously sweet, melt-in-your mouth confection! Customized to fit your flavor and color palettes. emily@tipsygoatstl.com | mallory@tipsygoatstl.com www.tipsygoatstl.com

Try a Mimosa Bar Mimosa Bar A build-your-own mimosa bar from Ces & Judy’s in St. Louis comes with Champagne flutes, assorted fresh fruit and fruit juices, and chilled bottles of sparkling wine and club soda. 314.991.6700, cesandjudys.com

photography courtesy ces & judy’s

Evoke a festive party atmosphere at bachelorette parties or daytime weddings with a mimosa bar: Guests can customize and assemble their own fruity and refreshing cocktail. Not a fan of sparkling wine? Try a Bloody Mary, sangria or whiskey-tasting bar.

Signature Cocktail Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is back, and with Spirits of St. Louis, there’s always a twist. Try it with JJ Neukomm Whiskey, Urban Bourbon, Neukomm Rye or even Vermont Night Maple Whiskey. Square One’s banquet space is the perfect size for showers and rehearsal dinners and offers a signature cocktail option like an Old Fashioned to make your day memorable. 314.231.2537, spiritsofstlouisdistillery.com

photography courtesy square one brewery & distillery

Inspired Local Food Culture

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Wedding Cakes There’s a reason the phrase to describe something impressive says it “takes the cake.” A wedding cake is often the focal point at receptions and prominently displayed, and the options for style, shape, colors and garnishes are endless, depending on your cake designer or bakery. These three styles can serve as a jumping-off point for choosing a cake, and any route you go is sure to impress, no matter how you slice it.

Gluten-Free Keeping dietary restrictions in mind ensures everyone has a wonderful time. Try allergen-free cupcakes, or go for a whole cake from Range Free in Columbia, Missouri, that everyone will enjoy. 573.777.9980, anna@range-free.com

photography by meredith green and love story weddings hawaii 1420 Tamm Avenue, St. Louis, Missouri 63139 314.647.6000 • info@thecakerybakery.net thecakerybakery.net

Classic or Custom The Cakery specializes in cakes, cupcakes and cookies expertly designed to your specifications. Cakes are frosted with its signature from-scratch buttercream. 314.647.6000, thecakerybakery.net

Photo credit: Wildflower Photography

Specializing in Wedding Cakes, Cupcakes, Cookies, and More!

photography courtesy the cakery Columbia, MO • range-free.com • anna@range-free.com • 573.777.9980

Trendy Full Service Catering Latin Inspired Menu Full Bar

Although traditional tiered cake is timeless, get creative with individual cakes, a multilevel pie display, meringue cake or croquembouche.

testimonial

“We hired Cha Cha Chow to bring their food truck to our wedding for late night snacks. Cha Cha Chow was the highlight of everyone’s evening. “ heychacha@chachachow.com | 314-833-6655 | www.chachachow.com

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photography by ©istock.com/michaelpuche and azurita


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Alternative Desserts Let’s face it, traditional wedding cakes are a little tired, and towering tiers might not fit with a more modern venue and aesthetic. Or, maybe you prefer to let guests indulge in a wider selection of sweets. Seasonality plays a factor, as well, with grab-and-go ice cream stands or a fruity ice-pop bar for summer weddings or mini pies or a macaron tower in the winter. Plus, handheld or one-bite options like cake pops or donuts keep guests on the dance floor.

Donuts Pile up donuts in a tower, or arrange bite-sized donut holes in jars – either way, the cakelike treat is a fun and trendy option.

JEN & DAYTON PHOTOGRAPHY

YOUR LOVE + OUR FOOD =

One Unforgettable Day

Pie in a Jar

ELISA PETERSEN PHOTOGRAPHY

photography by ©istock.com/haveseen and aaron ottis

DAZZLINGS VENUES

BLACKBURN PHOTOGRAPHY

CREATIVE CUISINE

Customizable and oh-so-cute, jelly jar pies allow for wider sampling of your favorite flavors, and they’re easy to transport, too.

EXTRAORDINARY EVENTS

SWITZERFILM

photography by ©istock.com/jessypesce and courtesy butler’s pantry

Cupcakes Cake’s mini cousin – cupcakes – can be just as much of a focal point and allow for more cake and icing variety.

CES & JUDY’S at LE CHATEAU | THE CITY MUSEUM | MAJORETTE

CABANNE HOUSE | WORLD’S FAIR PAVILION | THE JEWEL BOX THE MAGIC HOUSE | SILVER OAKS CHATEAU | NEO on LOCUST KETC PUBLIC MEDIA COMMONS | �UMEIER SCULPTURE PARK THE THAXTON | THE MUNY | THIRD DEGREE G�SS FACTORY

to name a few.. VISIT OUR WEBSITE FOR MORE VENUES & MENUS WWW.CESANDJUDYS.COM | 314-991-6700 CES & JUDY’S CATERING at LE CHATEAU | 10405 CLAYTON RD. ST. LOUIS, MO 63131

photography by ©istock.com/marzena_cytacka and ruthblack Inspired Local Food Culture

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After-Party

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The combination of an early dinner, all-night dancing and a fair share of alcoholic beverages means partygoers are hungry again around midnight – right when the party is wrapping up. Some hosts serve a light, catered snack on-site, while others park a food truck near the venue or keep the party going at a different bar. It’s important to change up some element of the reception, be it the location, the entertainment or the food and drink offered.

Food Trucks

ity C s a s Kan f o t Bes e h ce t n e i r e p x E Winter Blues Package raphaelkc.com/FeaturedSpecials

Cha Cha Chow Cha Cha Chow is a flavor-driven food truck in St. Louis that offers full-service catering, for a wedding or after-party filled with awardwinning Margaritas, tacos and more.

Historic Landmark Hotel & Iconic Country Club Plaza

314.833.6655, chachachow.com

Chef Joe Cizek Evolves Menu chazontheplaza.com/CulinaryTeam photography courtesy cha cha chow

Slide Piece Slide Piece by Tommy Lee provides St. Louis with gourmet sliders that meet all tastes, as well as a flexible location, time and party size. 314.517.1324, tommy.slidepiece@gmail.com

Romantic Getaway & Celebration Packages Classic Kansas City Restaurant & Lounge Live KC Jazz Nightly & Weekend Jazz Brunch

photography courtesy slide piece

Late-Night Snacks

Cool Cocktails & Hot Jazz Nightly chazontheplaza.com/AboutUs

Snacks like sliders and fries, freshly baked pretzels or popcorn are crowd pleasers, as are childhood favorites like mini tacos, pizza, chicken fingers and hot dogs. On the sweet side, popular options include ice pops, ice cream cones, donut holes, cheesecake shooters, snow cones or cookies and milk. Pick your favorites and prep your guests for the after-party.

photography by ©istock.com/karelnoppe 66

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325 Ward Parkway I Country Club Plaza I 816.756.3800 I raphaelkc.com


early bird offer

buy one, get one free visit feastmagazine.com/events for more details sponsored by Inspired Local Food Culture

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ithout the skill and vision of talented chefs, fresh ingredients would never reach their full potential. Seeing the names of local farmers, cheesemakers, bread bakers or coffee roasters on restaurant menus today is common, and how chefs interpret those ingredients sparks our curiosity and excitement. Each chef’s style and inspiration is reflected on his or her menu, which translates to wildly different options for diners. In our annual Tastemakers issue, we share stories about the men and women who cook, create and curate the region's top dining experiences. Turn the page to meet rising star chefs who are doing extraordinary work at every station in the kitchen, from executive chefs who are poised to make lasting impacts on their local dining scene to the line cooks who will soon be doing the same. We also name the year's best new restaurants that opened between January 2016 to January 2017 and the most anticipated restaurants of 2017. Each of these vibrant and diverse spots is pushing boundaries and expanding the local food community, and collectively helping drive the industry forward.

WrITTEn by ETTIE bErnEkIng, AprIl FlEmIng, nATAlIE gAllAghEr, AudrA JEnkInS, VAlErIA TurTurro klAmm, SArAh kloEpplE, lIz mIllEr, AnA pIErcE, hEAThEr rISkE, nAncy STIlES And JEnny VErgArA

Seared scallop, local chèvre-creamed corn with braised pork cheek, smoked tomato sauce and balsamic-fig reduction garnished with parsley and chive microgreens by executive chef Zach White of The Order in Springfield, Missouri. photo by starboard & port creative

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saMantha Mitchell farMtruk

The Preston best new The Chase Park Plaza Hotel revamped its bar and restaurant offerings in early 2016: The Preston, named after the historic hotel’s original 1922 architect, Preston J. Bradshaw, replaced Eau Bistro. The restaurant's design isn’t all that’s changed: Executive chef Collin Smelser along with chef de cuisine Theron Pajares have put together a menu of “modern-American cuisine to share.” Standouts include the eye-catching charred octopus plate with brown butter gnocchi, sunchoke purée and a smoked paprika vinaigrette, and pan-roasted monkfish with cauliflower purée, caponata and pomegranate. Sasha Alms and Joshua “Doc” Johnson whip up sophisticated and fun cocktails like the Scarlett O’Hara, made with J. Rieger & Co. Distillery gin infused with strawberry and basil, plus elderflower liqueur, fresh lime juice and cava. The marble-topped bar is the perfect place to meet someone for a nightcap, but you might want to grab an intimate table and linger over a dish of port-braised short ribs with smoked blue cheese-potato purée and Brussels sprouts. –N.S.

314.633.7800, theprestonstl.com PHOTO By MABEl SuEn

Most anticipated who: Vicia what: Vegetable-forward, seasonal and locally sourced fare

developed by chef Michael Gallina alongside co-owner and general manager Tara Gallina

where: Cortex Innovation Community in the Central West End when: Winter 2017 Must try:

Winter fruit and vegetable grain salad with vegetable-top pesto and yogurt

rising star Samantha Mitchell wants to change

the way people think about food trucks. last spring, the longtime Annie Gunn’s sous chef launched Farmtruk in St. louis, taking the farm-to-table concept – now considered the norm in most brick-and-mortar restaurants – on the road. signature dish While many diners associate the b.l.e. sandwich with food trucks with inexpensive thick-cut Geisert Farms food on the fly, Farmtruk’s bacon, two sunny-side-up menu centers on snooteggs, tomato, mixed greens to-tail butchery and local, and basil aïoli seasonal sourcing; around 85 percent of the truck’s ingredients are sourced within 100 miles. In a reversal from her days working in a traditional restaurant kitchen, Mitchell now has the opportunity to engage with customers face to face. She’ll explain why their burger might cost more (everything on Farmtruk’s menu is non-GMO and grass-fed) or why a particular item isn’t available during one month. In December, she took the concept one step further with the launch of Farmbox, a boxed lunch program featuring soups, salads and sandwiches that can be delivered to office buildings. Mitchell also competed on Guy’s Grocery Games: Impossible on Food network last month and took home $10,000. Eventually, Mitchell says she’ll park Farmtruk more permanently – she hopes to open a breakfast and brunch concept in St. louis in the next few years. –H.R. 636.373.1115, farmtrukstl.com PHOTOS By GREGG GOlDMAn Inspired Local Food Culture

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local chef kitchen

josh charles element

best new Local Chef Kitchen serves farm-to-table fare in Ballwin, Missouri, but you won’t see that designation on the menu. Chef-owner Rob Uyemura simply cooks locally sourced seasonal dishes with a farm-to-table focus because he believes that’s the way a restaurant should be run. He’s a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and was a Rising Star Chef nominee at the James Beard Foundation awards in 1998. Since 2010 Uyemura has partnered with Benne’s Best Meat in St. Charles, Missouri, to grow his own produce; he harvested cucumbers, peppers, carrots, kale and tomatoes this past summer. The 30-seat fast-casual space, which opened in March, serves flavorful and creative dishes such as housemade Wagyu-beef pastrami, chanterelle-leek chicken soup and bourbon pie with Missouri pecans. Indulge and add a fried duck egg to the grilled cheese on housemade bread (or anything on the menu), or pair a corned beef-potato cake and horseradish mustard and sausage with a side of housemade applesauce. Uyemura always offers choices of beef, pork, chicken or turkey, fish and vegetables, plus rotating sides and soups. Food scraps and plates are composted, and Uyemura also sells produce and other goodies in a small market in the space. –N.S.

636.220.3212, facebook.com/localchefstl PHOTO BY MABEL SUEn

rising star Josh Charles has spent a few years quietly making a name for himself, most notably as chef de cuisine at Ben Poremba’s acclaimed sister restaurants, Elaia and Olio. He left in August 2015, and shortly thereafter snagged the executive chef position at Element in Lafayette Square. He’s put the 3-year-old restaurant back in the spotlight with a menu that highlights a commitment to fresh, local ingredients, global inspiration and beautiful presentation. A simple Instagram post from Charles (@chefjoshcharles) of a colorful, artfully plated dish is enough to draw diners in to try roasted chanterelles signature dish with celery root and herbs, or crispy squash blossoms stuffed with corn celery root ravioli and cream cheese topped with harissa with pancetta, egg yolk vinaigrette and ramp oil. You can also and Parmesan find Charles hosting pop-up dinners around town with friends like sommelier Andrey Ivanov of Reeds American Table or Gabe Keeven of Side Lot Farms, consulting for area restaurants including McArthur’s Bakery Cafe, or posting stunning recipes on his food and recipe blog, Honey and Thyme. –N.S.

314.241.1674, elementstl.com honeyandthymeus.com PHOTOS BY GREGG GOLdMAn

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Ashley shelton

rising star During a busy shift at pastaria in Clayton, Missouri, Ashley Shelton doesn’t bark orders at her fellow chefs – she sings. on a given night, the executive chef might belt out a cacio e pepe jingle to the tune of the Tootsie Roll song. She believes it’s important to have a little fun while cooking during rushes – and the candy and Kool-Aid she keeps close by certainly don’t hurt. Shelton started cooking early as a way to stay connected to her mother, a talented home cook who passed away when Shelton was 14. While in high school, she scored a job working under lou Rook at the venerable Annie Gunn’s in Chesterfield, Missouri – she credits the restaurant with teaching her just about everything she knows – before moving on to the Culinary Institute of America in new York. There, she fell in love with Italian cuisine – and, more specifically, a dish called bucatini signature dish all’ amatriciana. During a year abroad in bucatini all’amatriciana Italy, Shelton met with Gerard Craft, who with tomato, red onion, was on a research trip for pastaria, his guanciale, chile then-upcoming Italian restaurant. (She and Pecorino previously met Craft at his restaurant, niche, and they kept in touch.) After a job interview in Florence, Shelton landed the position of pasta chef before working her way up to sous chef and, eventually, executive chef. In June, Shelton was named one of eater’s Young Guns of 2016, becoming the first St. louis chef to receive the award. It’s safe to say locals aren’t the only ones singing her praises. –H.R.

A ke

314.862.6603, pastariastl.com pHoToS BY GReGG GolDMAn

Most AnticipAted who: Good Fortune what: A “Chinese-Americanese” restaurant from Corey Smale,

owner (former co-owner of Strange Donuts); Ryan McDonald, head chef; Hana Chung, chef (also of Byrd & Barrel); and Bob Brazell, chef consultant (chef-owner of Byrd & Barrel)

where: TBA when: Spring 2017 Must try:

Mapo tofu with fermented black beans, red chile, scallions and white rice, and kung pao chicken with scallions, Szechuan peppercorns, bean sprouts, red chile, garlic, ginger and fried rice

who: Billie-Jean what: Named for owner Zoe Robinson’s parents, Billie-Jean

will serve contemporary American dishes by chef Ny Vongsaly, who also developed menus for Robinson’s other restaurants, I Fratellini and Bar Les Frères in Clayton, Missouri. Robinson describes Billie-Jean as “very New York – I want to create a casual elegance.”

where: 7610 Wydown Blvd. in Clayton, a few doors down from

I Fratellini and Bar Les Frères, in an intimate space just under 1,000 square feet

when: Winter 2017 Must try:

Robinson says guests can expect nods to Zoe’s Pan-Asian Café, the restaurant she operated for many years in the Central West End, including contemporary American fare with Asian accents

Vista Ramen best new You don’t usually find roasted cauliflower with tamarind chutney or pumpkin-miso agnolotti on the menu at a traditional ramen shop, but – despite the name – Vista Ramen is not a traditional ramen shop. Chef Chris Bork, who opened the Cherokee Street restaurant with The Mud House owners Casey and Jeremy Miller in May, is upfront about this. At Vista, he reimagines the classic Japanese noodle soup with inventive takes like a short rib ramen with egg, pumpkin, kimchi and pepitas; and the smoky pozole ramen with pulled chicken, ancho-chile paste, hominy, a creamy sous-vide egg, scallions and cilantro. Rather than relying on traditional styles like shoyu or tonkotsu, Bork creates his own broths, like the signature Vista ramen broth made with chicken, pork, ginger, Granny smith apples and ham hocks. The ramen is some of the best in the city, to be sure, but it would be a mistake to overlook the small plates, each of which deliver big flavor. The seasonally inspired dishes represent a mix of Asian influences, including kimchi pancakes with coleslaw, hoisin sauce and scallions; pork ribs with crab-caramel paste, herbs and peanuts; and Korean fried-chicken sliders doused in gochujang. Vista is a casual spot, but Bork’s background in fine-dining is evident in each dish’s complex flavor profiles and artful plating. –H.R.

314.797.8250, vistaramen.com pHoTo BY MABel Suen Inspired Local Food Culture

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signature dish rising star At 28, Ari Jo Ellis has quite the résumé.

biscuits and gravy

She worked with James Beard Rising Star nominee Rick topped with fried eggs, Lewis at Quincy Street Bistro in St. Louis and as his which Ellis says is the dish executive sous chef at Southern, and then with Chris she makes most frequently Bolyard at Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions. In addition for herself to Bolyard’s, she’s now working the line at critically acclaimed Kounter Kulture in the Lindenwood Park neighborhood. The pint-sized, carry-out only restaurant started as a prepared-foods company and pop-up series called Kitchen Kulture, and opened its brick-and-mortar spot last summer. Ellis’ cooking is deeply rooted in Southern tradition, but she hopes to evolve her style with Kounter Kulture’s Asian-inspired menu items. Look for dishes that reflect Ellis’ approach – and her passion for each spot’s culinary focus – such as the Piggy Piggy sandwich at Bolyard’s, with pulled pig face, arugula, apple mostarda and smoked Gouda, or Kounter Kulture menu items like shrimp and grits with coconut milk Missouri grits, seared lemongrass shrimp, chile-roasted squash and a peanut-pepper relish. –N.S. 314.781.4344, kounterkulturestl.com PhoToS By JACKLyn MEyER

yolklore Best neW yolklore debuted in Crestwood, Missouri, in July with the tagline “legendary breakfast” – a lofty claim that its creative breakfast and brunch fare more than lives up to. Crowds of people turned out for the restaurant’s grand opening; a line snaked out the door of the 1,600-square-foot space for much of the morning, and food sold so quickly that service had to be cut short by two hours. opened by chefs Mary and John Bogacki and business partner Billy oziransky, each owner brings years of experience and skill to the restaurant; Mary was corporate chef for Strange Donuts and the pastry chef at Four Seasons hotel St. Louis and John worked as a butcher at Bolyard's Meat & Provisions in Maplewood, Missouri, for the past year. oziransky previously worked in hospitality at four-diamond hotels in Las Vegas and Vail, Colorado. Each co-owner also has a signature sandwich on the menu at yolklore: Billy the Kid is a slinger in sandwich form, with a breakfast-sausage patty, chili, a fried egg and Cheddar; the Mary B.E.A.R. is made with apple butter, brie, pickled red onion, arugula and a soft-boiled egg; and the Johnny ham hands, with ham steak, cheesy gougeres and garden greens, is slathered in a spicy “devil sauce.” This fall, yolklore began hosting cooking and baking classes during off hours, including a holiday pie class with Mary (she also creates custom cakes out of the restaurant). –L.M.

314.270.8538, yolklore.com PhoTo By MABEL SuEn

Most anticipated Who: Shake Shack What: An internationally renowned burger chain that founder

Danny Meyer says was inspired by his childhood spent in St. Louis

ari Jo ellis Kounter Kulture and Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions

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Where: Central West End When: Late 2017 Must try:

The ShackBurger and Shack Attack chocolate frozen custard; Meyer says the pairing is an homage to Carl’s Drive In, Crown Candy Kitchen, Steak ‘n’ Shake and Ted Drewes, among others


Kore Wilbert

signature dish

the garden on grand

salmon croquettes

rising star

Nixta best new Ben poremba’s newest restaurant serves Mexican fare, but it’s hardly your average taco stand. In november, nixta opened in the former home of Old Standard Fried Chicken in St. Louis’ Botanical Heights neighborhood, and the space is barely recognizable from its days as an old school-style chicken shack. A playful coral, seafoam green and electric blue color scheme brightens up the interior, with potted succulents and cacti and bright, colorful woven textiles scattered throughout. If the space itself doesn’t transport you to Mexico, the menu – inspired by Mexican street foods and executive chef Tello Carreon’s abuelita – certainly will. dishes at nixta are rooted in the traditions of Guanajuato, Mexico, where Carreon hails from, but also weave in seasonal ingredients and contemporary techniques. Carreon celebrates his heritage through dishes like the beef cheeks, which are served with pickled vegetables and an herb salad and braised in his grandmother’s mole negro. The al pastor is a riff on the classic taco with pork belly, caramelized pineapple pico de gallo, charred onion salsa and cilantro served atop a corn tortilla, while smoked augachile with cucumber, bergamot and serrano chiles is poured tableside over a freshly shucked sea scallop. On weekend nights, the space is transformed into Bar Limon, with a bar program focused on tequila, mezcal, rum, pisco and cachaça, plus a late-night menu of fried potatoes, ceviche, quesadillas and tacos. –H.R.

314.899.9000, nixtastl.com pHOTO By jACKLyn MEyER

September was a big month for Kore Wilbert. Within a week, he won the Stella Artois Chef Battle Royale at Taste of St. Louis and celebrated the opening of The Garden on Grand, where he is executive chef, with owner Cevin Lee. The menu at The Garden on Grand is built around flavorful, vegetable-driven dishes made with organic and non-GMO ingredients and Asian, Italian and Southern influences. The menu reflects Wilbert’s range of culinary experiences: He learned how to make Southern comfort-food dishes from his mother and grandmother, and says they both sparked his love of food and cooking. He gained pasta-making experience at Mad Tomato, the now-shuttered Italian restaurant in Clayton, Missouri, before accepting a position at Villa Romana Hotel on the Amalfi Coast in Southern Italy, where he prepared fresh seafood and pasta dishes. After returning to St. Louis, he briefly worked at Hong Kong Express in the South Grand dining district while developing the menu for The Garden on Grand; Wilbert says the gig taught him proper wok skills and inspired flavors for the restaurant's menu. These far-flung influences shine in dishes at The Garden on Grand, including the coconut fried rice and the roasted pistachio-encrusted king salmon with whipped Feta-lemonherb-truffle risotto, asparagus and microgreens. Wilbert’s mother’s and grandmother’s recipe for salmon croquettes recently inspired him to make his own take on the dish for a private party at the restaurant. He says the croquettes represent where he comes from and how he approaches making food – something comforting that calls back to his childhood, but with his own signature flavor. –L.M. 314.898.3788, thegardenongrand.com pHOTO By GREGG GOLdMAn

Most anticipated who: Nudo House what: Authentic Japanese-style ramen shop from Qui Tran

of Mai Lee and chef Marie-Anne Velasco

where: 11423 Olive Blvd. in Creve Coeur, Missouri when: Winter 2017 Must try:

Chicken schmaltz ramen Inspired Local Food Culture

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Hana cHung Byrd & Barrel and good Fortune

rising star On an average day at Byrd & Barrel, you’ll likely spot Hana Chung through the restaurant’s small expo window, approving dishes coming off the line. Or maybe you’ll see her assembling a dish like the cold-noodle salad she developed for the summer menu, with ramen noodles, lettuce, pickled carrots and onions, cilantro, cucumbers, cashews and an Asian-style pepper-jelly vinaigrette. Prior to joining chef-owner Bob Brazell’s Byrd & Barrel in fall 2015, Chung worked at Bambu signature dish Vietnamese Cuisine in Springfield, Missouri, and Juniper in St. Louis. kimbap with housemade Later this year she will help open Good Fortune alongside her friend Ryan Spam, egg, carrots, McDonald, who is leading the kitchen as head chef. With a focus on pickled daikon and “Chinese-Americanese” fare, Chung says the restaurant will serve a special sautéed spinach blend of food inspired by authentic Chinese dishes and St. Louis standards, including a St. Paul sandwich with milk bread and egg foo young made from scratch. Chung is also working on a pop-up series to debut this summer or fall with her husband, Taylor Hamilton, who is a cook and pizzaiolo at Randolfi’s in the Delmar Loop. Dubbed Side Dish Korean Diner, the pop up will draw from Chung's Korean heritage in dishes like savory and sweet Korean pancakes and Korean-style tamales stuffed with beef bulgogi or braised kimchi, plus a St. Louis slinger made with traditional Korean flavors. She also hopes to offer kimbap, a popular street food in Seoul, South Korea; she'd like to experiment with frying kimbap rolls in a light tempura batter, as she wants “to bring it to St. Louis, but fried, for a Midwest touch.” –L.M.

314.875.9998, facebook.com/byrdandbarrel, goodfortunestl.com PHOTOS By GReGG GOLDMAn

Most anticipated Who: The Blue Duck What: A second location of the hugely popular Washington, Missouri,

restaurant of the same name from owners Chris and Karmen Rayburn, serving elevated from-scratch comfort food

Where: 2611 Sutton Blvd. in Maplewood, Missouri When: January 2017 Must try:

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signature dish gnocchi

with braised beef cheek, pine nuts and preserved lemon gremolata

rising star Tommy Andrew has worked every station in the kitchen. He got his start in the industry bussing tables at LoRusso’s Cucina in St. Louis when he was just 15 years old, and was quickly promoted to dishwasher, and then line cook – a testament to his strong work ethic and drive to learn – and continued to work his way up the ladder for the next nine years. Born into a big Italian family (friends have nicknamed him Tommy Salami), Andrew was already familiar with many of the dishes served at LoRusso’s. When he joined chef Josh Galliano’s crew at Monarch in Maplewood, Missouri, though, he says he was exposed to a new world of flavor and cooking techniques. He describes Galliano as not only an inspiring chef, but a leader who pushed Andrew to put out his best work. After Monarch closed in 2012, Andrew worked at a few local eateries, including The Libertine in Clayton, Missouri, where Galliano was executive chef at the time. Last January, Andrew was approached by James Beard-nominated chef Mike Randolph about a job at Randolfi's, in University City, Missouri, focused around Italian dishes made with modern technique and flavor. After staging at the restaurant for about a month, Andrew knew Randolfi's was the right fit – and Randolph knew it, too. Soon after hiring Andrew, Randolph promoted him to executive chef. In the past year, Andrew says he’s been given a lot of creative freedom with the restaurant’s seasonally inspired menu, and says Randolph’s support and vision have pushed him to develop some of his best dishes yet. This winter, Randolfi's is offering a dish that captures Andrew's family’s style of Italian cooking translated through his own perspective as a chef: gnocchi with braised beef cheek, pine nuts and preserved lemon gremolata. –L.M.

314.899.9221, randolfis.com pHoToS By GReGG GoLdMAn

mosT AnTicipATed who: louie what: A reincarnation of long-shuttered St. Louis institution King

Louie’s from Matt McGuire, formerly director of service for Gerard Craft’s Niche Food Group

where: 706-B DeMun Avenue (located within a portion of the former

Jimmy’s on the Park space) in the DeMun neighborhood

when: Spring or Summer 2017 Must try:

No menu items have been finalized as of press time, but Louie will serve French- and Italian-inspired American fare

Olive + Oak best new olive + oak, which opened in Webster Groves, Missouri, in January, might

have the most compelling restaurant story you’ve ever heard. Co-owners Mark Hinkle and Greg ortyl both had sons born with congenital heart defects who died as infants; the restaurant’s name is a tribute to two types of trees that live to a very old age as well as the two boys, oliver and oakes, who never had the chance. Like Hinkle, executive chef and co-owner Jesse Mendica spent years at the Chesterfield, Missouri, staple Annie Gunn’s, where she was known both for her classic style of cooking and as the “fish girl.” That reputation lives on at olive + oak in dishes like oysters Rockefeller and a blue crab gratin with Calabrian chile, celery and crusty pretzel bread. The restaurant was designed to bring people together; framed black-and-white family photos line the walls and a neon red heart illuminates the bar. It’s the perfect backdrop for Mendica’s menu, which reinvents comfort-food classics through dishes like beer-battered cheese curds with scallion aïoli, prime strip with blue cheese fonduta and ale-braised onions, and even a spin on biscuits and gravy featuring rabbit, ham hock gravy and a buttermilk drop biscuit. It’s hardly a surprise, then, that olive + oak is one of the hardest places at which to snag a table in town – proving that those two boys’ memories won’t soon be forgotten. –H.R. 314.736.1370, oliveandoakstl.com pHoToS By JUdd deMALIne

Inspired Local Food Culture

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native and James Beard semifinalist Rob Connoley

ben welch

Where: TBA When: Mid-2017

big baby q

Must try:

Thai-spiced acorn croquette, which is also featured in his cookbook, Acorns & Cattails

ben welch big baby q

sardella best neW This summer, gerard Craft made a surprising announcement: He would be closing his critically acclaimed fine-dining restaurant Niche on June 11 (after he won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Midwest in 2015, no less). Craft was ready for a fresh concept, and that’s what he’s found in Sardella, which opened Nov. 2 in Niche’s former home in Clayton, Missouri. The new eatery serves breakfast, lunch and dinner “with a wink to Italy” from Niche’s former team, including executive chef Nick Blue and executive pastry chef Sarah Osborn. Try a hearty grain bowl with farro or fresh coconut yogurt for breakfast. A variety of small and large plates and pasta dishes dot the dinner menu, from fluke crudo with yuzu, Thai chile, quinoa and celery, to miso-ricotta ravioli with orange, pepitas, brown butter and tarragon, to black drum with mussels, sorrel butter and greens.

Sardella also features an ambiance all its own, courtesy of a sweeping interior redesign. The bright, white space – reimagined by Sasha Malinich of S. Aleksandr Malinich design – is decorated with patterned blue Italian tiles and colorful sardine cans that fill display cases above the open kitchen. A rounded banquette envelopes an entire wall, while an expansive bar takes over the right side of the space. From its shareable fare to its cheerful décor, Craft designed Sardella to be a lively successor to Niche where diners can come together no matter the occasion. –S.K. 314.773.7755, sardellastl.com rising star Ben Welch began his

culinary career as a dishwasher, but eventually graduated from Johnson & Wales in North Carolina, and cooked at Emeril Lagasse’s NOLA Restaurant in New Orleans. In St. Louis, Welch was hired to revamp the menu at now-shuttered The Precinct, and critics were impressed by his brisket. Lucky for us, Welch now has his own spot: Big Baby Q. Located in Maryland Heights, Missouri, the restaurant, which he owns with his father, Chicago industrial designer Bennie Welch, already has lines out the door thanks to St. Louis-style ribs, succulent pulled pork, impossibly tender smoked turkey, and of course, Welch’s famous brisket. Southern sides include barbecue baked beans, pork ‘n’ collards, mac ‘n’ cheese, creamy coleslaw, mustard potato salad, housemade dill pickles and pasta salad. He also makes sauces, rubs and pickles in house and coats wings in a top-secret signature dish spice rub. Even in a barbecue-rich city, Welch is the big baby sandwich proving he’s got the chops to with brisket, turkey breast, stand out. –N.S. housemade dill pickles and creamy coleslaw topped with horseradish-based Alabama white and house barbecue sauces

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314.801.8888, bigbabyq.com PHOTOS By gREgg gOLdMAN

PHOTOS By JACkLyN MEyER


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Kounter Kulture best neW There are no seats inside Kounter Kulture, and dishes, which are only available for carry out, come served in simple cardboard containers. But unlike most takeout joints, everything is cooked to order, so you’ll have to wait a few minutes for your food – and enjoy an amuse-bouche (like baby potato with Chinese sausage and fermented black beans) while you’re at it. Over the years, Christine Meyer and Michael Miller of Kitchen Kulture have earned a reputation for their prepared foods and pop-up meals, which highlight fresh, seasonal ingredients from local farms in new and unexpected ways. Kounter Kulture, the brick-and-mortar incarnation that opened in the Lindenwood Park neighborhood in July, continues that mission with vibrant Asian-inspired dishes. The menu changes seasonally, of course, but highlights include oversized steamed buns stuffed with slow-roasted pork, MOFU tofu or togarashi-spiced catfish; gyudon with soy-dashi braised Missouri beef; and fiery khao soi. Kounter Kulture also offers playful takes on takeout staples like build-your-own okonomiyaki, a dish that appeared on its opening menu. Often compared to pizza, the savory Japanese pancake features a yam-cabbage base topped with ingredients such as kimchi, house-cured Chinese bacon, mushrooms or shrimp, and, fittingly, arrives in a cardboard pizza box. The dish embodies the restaurant – despite its modest appearance, Kounter Kulture serves some of the city’s boldest flavors. –H.R.

314.781.4344, kounterkulturestl.com PhOTO By JACKLyn Meyer

Most anticipated Who: Ao&Co What: Ben Poremba’s modern spin on a classic Jewish deli

rising star When Ben Poremba announced he was bringing Ben Grupe on as executive

chef at elaia and Olio in Botanical heights last summer, he described him as “the most talented and accomplished chef in St. Louis without a kitchen to call his own.” That’s a pretty bold statement, but Grupe has the chops to back it up. As captain of the 2016 American Culinary Federation Culinary Team USA, he led the team to place fourth overall in the international Culinary Olympics in erfurt, Germany, in October. Team USA took home three gold medals, including first place in the world in culinary art. Grupe says his days of competing are behind him, but he’s bringing that same attention to detail – honed over years of preparation – and team-spirit mentality back to the kitchen at elaia. he takes a straightforward approach to food, but with nuanced technique and artful plating. Flavor is first and foremost in Grupe’s dishes; his focus is on making every bite the most delicious you’ve ever had. And after just one bite of his butternut tortellini with brown butter purée, popped sorghum, hen of the woods mushrooms and toasted hazelnuts, you’ll see why his cooking earned him the title of Culinary Olympian. –H.R. 314.932.1088, elaiastl.com

signature dish

PhOTOS By GreGG GOLdMAn

butternut tortellini

with brown butter purée, popped sorghum, hen of the woods mushrooms and toasted hazelnuts

Where: St. Louis; leading up to the opening, get an early

taste at AO&CO pop ups at Parigi in Clayton, Missouri When: 2017 Must try:

House-baked bagels and schmear

Who: Hi-Pointe Drive-in What: A burger joint from Mike Johnson, chef-owner of

Sugarfire Smoke House

Where: Hi-Pointe neighborhood When: Winter 2017 Must try:

The Taco Burger, a taco-seasoned patty made with crushed Cool Ranch Doritos and Chili Cheese Fritos topped with lettuce, tomato, American cheese and a sauce made in collaboration with Mission Taco Joint Inspired Local Food Culture

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The Antler Room best neW Chef Nick and Leslie Goellner spent most of 2016 hosting

pop-up dinners in Kansas City – plus one in St. Louis – before opening their brick-and mortar-restaurant, The Antler Room, in the Longfellow neighborhood in October. The restaurant was one of the most hotly anticipated and discussed of the year and reflects a new approach to fine dining, one that delivers upscale menu items served in a more casual environment. Grab a seat in the restaurant’s bar area to order a craft cocktail or a glass of wine from the expertly curated list, featuring offerings from across the globe. The cozy and rustic décor in the dining room, which is accented with midcentury pieces, proves a welcoming backdrop for the dinner-only restaurant (brunch service will be added this spring). The menu is composed of mostly small plates – with one large shareable dish to feed two to four – including farro with koji, mushrooms, sumac and bonito flakes, a favorite from the fall menu. –J.V. 816.605.1967, theantlerroomkc.com phOTO by ANNA peTROw

most anticipated Who: Sura EatS What: A Korean pop-up and catering company; owners

Keeyoung Kim and David Son hope to eventually open a brick-and-mortar location

Where: Pop ups are hosted in Kansas City’s City Market and

other locations around the city

When: 2017 (Next pop-up dinner will be hosted this month) Must try:

Korean barbecue and street food specialties such as ddeokbokki, a rice cake with spicy gochujang sauce

rising star If you dine at hank Charcuterie in Lawrence, Kansas, it’s virtually guaranteed that chef-owner Vaughn Good will be on site. Open two and a half years, the restaurant is very much Good’s baby: he writes the menus, develops most of the specials, and oversees the kitchen production as the expediter most evenings. yet while he's the ultimate decision-maker in his restaurant, he regularly seeks feedback from his team and acts as a mentor to his cooks, helping them to refine ideas, balance flavors and elevate their dish presentations.

Good, who was raised in Kansas, is deeply connected to Midwestern farmers, and the region serves as a continued source of inspiration for the restaurant. After attending the French Culinary Institute in New york, Good moved back to the Midwest to open hank Charcuterie and build relationships with local farmers. by purchasing locally grown produce and heritage-breed meat, Good says he’s not only supporting small farmers – and in turn creating more demand for their products – but also serving his guests the highest-quality fare, such as his signature cassoulet with lamb sausage, duck confit and smoked ham hocks. Good doesn’t anticipate taking a less active role in his kitchen anytime soon, although he does look forward to the day when he can take a vacation. Most of all, he hopes his restaurant will continue to improve and evolve – he says he would like it to become a cornerstone in the community and a destination for Midwest diners. –A.F. 785.832.8688, hankmeats.com phOTOS by wILLIAM heSS

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signature dish cassoulet with lamb sausage, duck confit and smoked ham hocks


Most anticipated who: Black Dirt what: A modern American bistro from chef Jonathan Justus and his wife,

Camille Eklof where: 5050 Main Street in Kansas City’s South Plaza neighborhood when: September 2017 Must try:

The “chicken salad” with confit chicken gizzards fried like croquettes served atop a salad of baby greens, shaved radish, celery and chopped green onions, drizzled with buttermilk dressing

Jessica arMstrong novel

The Rockhill Grille best new Zach Marten and Bret Springs, owners of The Rockhill Grille in

the Crossroads Arts District, pulled off a jaw-dropping interior remodel before opening for business last August. They saw the potential in the bones of the building, which once housed The Cashew restaurant and bar, and transformed the space into one of the most luxe New American spots in town. Veteran bartender Mark Church and general manager Erica Schulte are lending their talents to the bar program and the front-of-house, respectively (while Marten and Springs also operate Back of the Napkin Restaurant Group). The Rockhill Grille was named in part for William Rockhill Nelson, co-founder of The Kansas City Star, and flaunts three floors of impeccably designed dining rooms, private event spaces and a bar area, each with breathtaking views of downtown Kansas City. Make a meal out of starters like calamari steaks, fresh oysters, and beef carpaccio, or opt for entrées including duck confit with Brussels sprouts, hash browns and lardons in a mustard vinaigrette, or crab cakes with a tomato gratin, ginger, baby kale and lemon butter. And save room for dessert: The banana-cream pie is a must-try dish. –J.V. 816.389.5800, therockhillgrille.com phoTo By ANNA pETRoW

rising star Until April of this year, Jessica Armstrong was perhaps best known as the pastry chef at Bluestem – the woman whose sweet, painstaking creations clearly deserved to be showcased at one of Kansas City’s most beloved fine-dining institutions. Armstrong’s dessert game is still sharp as ever, but these days, you’ll find her at Novel, the three-and-a-half-year-old Westside restaurant owned by her husband, chef Ryan Brazeal.

signature dish fried apple pie

with miso-butterscotch glaze, Vietnamese cinnamon ice cream and candied Missouri black walnuts

In May, the couple welcomed a daughter, Iris, into the family. The new addition hasn’t slowed down Brazeal or Armstrong, though. She’s taken over the event coordinator duties at Novel in addition to running the pastry program, and while she says she’s never been busier, she’s also never felt more at home. Although not always the case for couples-turned-business partners, she says she and Brazeal make a good team, adding that their work is separated between sweet and savory.

Teamwork is integral to the success of any restaurant – as is talent. Armstrong’s desserts walk the line between comfort food and experimental, and her work is often inspired by childhood memories. Get a taste of that balance with her coconut semifreddo with passion fruit curd and espresso shortbread, or fried apple pie. –N.G. 816.221.0785, novelkc.com phoToS By WIllIAM hESS Inspired Local Food Culture

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1889 Pizza Napoletana best new Diners in Kansas City, Kansas, welcomed 1889 Pizza Napoletana in June, and from the very beginning, the neighborhood pizza joint has sparkled – much like the pair of matching copper Acunto wood-fired pizza ovens in its kitchen, imported from Naples, italy. Owners Kelli and Jason Kolich met and fell in love in college – they were sharing a pizza over dinner, no less – while studying in italy. Today, the married couple and first-time restaurant owners have channeled that love into 1889 Pizza Napoletana. The chic pizzeria serves wood-fired pizzas with beautiful blistered crusts, as well as salads and starters like a giant meatball with tomato sauce and a charcuterie board. The menu features 10 signature pies, including the simple-yet-satisfying margherita; The Butcher, loaded with Kansas City, missouri-based Scimeca’s italian sausage, meatballs and pepperoni; and The Green Eggs and Ham, topped with 600-day-aged prosciutto di Parma, arugula and a fried egg. Enjoy your pizza with a glass of wine – house options regularly rotate and higher-end wines are also available – or a local draft beer. –J.V.

913.608.5889, 1889pizza.com PHOTO BY APRil flEmiNG

most anticipated who: Corvino Supper Club & TaSTing room what: From chef Michael Corvino and his wife and business

partner, Christina Corvino. Supper Club occupies 5,320-square-feet with a 90-seat main dining room and bar, and will feature “modern shared plates for social dining.” The Tasting Room is located in a separate 18-seat private room and will focus on “seasonal, contemporary American fine dining.” Both will be open for dinner only.

where: 1830 Walnut Street in the redeveloped Corrigan Station

Building in the Crossroads Arts District

when: Late winter 2017 Must try:

At Supper Club: Slow-poached salmon, sunchokes, black-trumpet mushrooms and chicharrons; at Tasting Room: Japanese beef with kombu broth and smoked matsutake mushrooms

ColuMbus Park raMen shoP

rising star As head chef of Columbus Park Ramen Shop since its grand opening, Jonathan Ponzer has been working the line for every milestone, from the 20-seat restaurant’s hype-filled first days of business to its continued status as a Kansas City hot spot. Ponzer describes the ramen shop’s early days as being full of “heavy lifting,” but in the past year he’s oriented himself as a team leader who's focused on motivating his staff to put out their best work every day.

And delivering great food motivates Ponzer, as well, whether it be serving bowls of the shop’s soul-satisfying noodle soups or creating fun and innovative specials. Seafood and fresh vegetables are particularly inspiring to Ponzer: One of his recent specials plated a fluke crudo with sea urchin, garnished with a green tomato gelée, daikon, red radish, jalapeño, cilantro and nasturtiums with a drizzle of shiso-infused oil and ponzu sauce. Ponzer hopes to open his own restaurant in the next five years; he says he wants to take his time and make sure he approaches it the right way, and on his own terms. –A.F. 816.492.5549, columbusparkramenshop.com PHOTOS BY WilliAm HESS

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signature dish fluke crudo with sea urchin garnished with a green tomato gelée, daikon, red radish, jalapeño, cilantro and nasturtiums with a drizzle of shiso-infused oil and ponzu sauce


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reimagined and reopened by chef Wes Gartner and Jill Myers, owners of Voltaire and Moxie Catering in Kansas City Where: 1600 Genessee Street in the West Bottoms

neighborhood, reopening in its original location in the historic Stockyards District

When: Spring 2017 Must-try: Premium steaks cooked on a wood-fired open grill.

Steaks can be topped with a variety of sauces, including béarnaise, bordelaise, chimichurri, brandied green peppercorn and the house steak sauce

signature dish poppyseed cake

with grapefruit ice cream, rose-baked meringue, blood orange sauce, orange curd and fennel panna cotta topped with fennel fronds

natasha Goellner natasha’s Mulberry & Mott, Cirque du suCre and the antler rooM

rising star Natasha Goellner is a hustler. She might not

come out and say it, but in the best ways, that’s exactly how this pastry chef manages her myriad projects. When she lost the Country Club Plaza lease for her celebrated Kansas City bakery Natasha’s Mulberry & Mott in the fall of 2015, she decided to go mobile. Mulberry & Mott exists – along with Goellner’s ice cream company, Splits and Scoops, and her chocolate company, Bokkie Sjokolade – inside a food truck business called Cirque du Sucre (French for “circus of sugar”). She didn’t want to get stuck in another lease, and so the flexibility and mobility of a food truck made the most sense. In addition to running her companies (alongside her mother, Vicki, who is the co-owner of Mulberry & Mott), Goellner was tapped to run the pastry program at newly opened Longfellow restaurant, The Antler Room. She was a natural choice for the job: chef-owner Nick Goellner is her brother. And while you’ll rarely catch her at The Antler Room during service – she does have her own businesses to take care of, plus a young daughter – rest assured that she develops every dessert featured on the menu. She favors desserts made with florals and herbs instead of sugary-sweet dishes, sometimes even incorporating vegetables. (The menu changes frequently, but if you’re fortunate enough to try Goellner’s chocolate panna cotta with popcorn ice cream, you won’t regret it.) It takes a powerful imagination to keep so many different irons in the fire, and Goellner’s primary inspiration is kind of surprising: She draws most of her influences for desserts from cartoons, specifically Disney cartoons, which she watches with her daughter. In the next five years, Goellner hopes Cirque du Sucre will become successful enough to support a small staff so she can focus on other goals – among them, she says, is winning a James Beard award. Considering the breadth and quality of her creations, that dream might soon be a reality for this cartoon-loving hustler. –N.G. 913.216.4093, natashasmulberryandmott.com PHOTOS BY WILLIAM HESS Inspired Local Food Culture

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Patrick curtis shio ramen

signature dish rising star Despite a number of new entrants into

shio ramen with chicken-dashi the Kansas City ramen scene in the past year (with more to shio broth, chicken, pork belly, a come in 2017), chef Patrick Curtis remains the only chef in slow-cooked egg, scallions, bamboo town whose restaurant makes its own noodles fresh, shoots, a black garlic oil and nori on site, every day. Prior to opening Shio Ramen, Curtis traveled to Los Angeles to attend a weekend workshop at the Yamato Noodle School as part of his quest to make consistently flawless noodles. He also made a large investment in his own Yamato noodle machine, a highly coveted piece of equipment dedicated to the manufacture of his springy ramen noodles.

Inspired by Asian fare he first experienced at restaurants on the West Coast – including the renowned Lincoln in Portland, Oregon, where he worked – Curtis continues to find inspiration from Japanese cooking techniques. This reverence is reflected in his simple preparation of shio (salt) and shoyu (soy sauce) broths; the house Shio ramen, for example, is made with a chicken-dashi-sea salt broth and filled with chicken, pork belly, a slow-cooked egg, scallions, bamboo shoots, a black garlic oil and nori. A vegan miso ramen is also offered, made with mushroom-dashi broth, acorn squash, enoki mushrooms, scallions, bean sprouts, nori and a mushroom-scallion oil. While Curtis is the leader of his kitchen, he describes his team at Shio as a “wolf pack,” that, out of necessity, operates as a near-perfect unit to ensure successful service in the Midtown restaurant’s cozy kitchen. Curtis aims to continue refining his recipes at Shio, as well as periodically introducing new flavors to complement the restaurant’s ramen. –A.F. 816.541.3215, shioramenshop.com PHOTOS bY WILLIAM HeSS

stock hill best new Stock Hill, the sixth restaurant concept from Kansas City, Missouri-based

bread & butter Concepts, opened for business in December under executive chef Joe West. The restaurant features a modern take on traditional steakhouse fare, featuring meat sourced from ranchers in Missouri, Kansas, Illinois, Nebraska and Iowa, all cooked to order on a wood-burning grill and finished in a broiler. For dinner, West serves entrées such as braised pork shank osso buco with mascarpone polenta, pot au feu vegetables and “excessively roasted” shallots, as well as pork, veal, chicken and seafood entrées. The focal point of the 14,000-square-foot, two-story restaurant is its bar and lounge area; the space features an upstairs balcony that overlooks the main dining room below, plus two outdoor patios. Located near Country Club Plaza, Stock Hill is reverent to the city’s history as a steak-loving cow town, yet with a fresh flavor all its own. –J.V. 816.895.8400, stockhillkc.com PHOTO bY ANNA PeTROW

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West Bottoms Kitchen best new In June, West Bottoms Kitchen opened for lunch service in the historic Stockyards District in Kansas City, serving American bistro-style dishes made with down-home Southern soul. The restaurant is small, with seating for only about 35, but what it lacks in square feet it makes up for in personality; the interior features handsome reclaimed wood on the walls, turquoise bar stools and a dramatic bull painting. Open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11am to 2:30pm – and for private parties in the evenings and on weekends – West Bottoms Kitchen is a collaboration from retired physician-turned-chef Jim Hamilton and his daughter and general manager, Hannah Murray. Must-try menu items include the signature blackened meatloaf, fried green tomato BLT and breaded and fried catfish served over corn maque choux with remoulade drizzle. The cocktail list leans more toward bourbon and whiskey to complement the Southern fare, including a variety of Mint Juleps. –J.V.

816.878.9694, westbottomskitchen.com pHOTO By AnnA peTrOW

rising star There’s a lot of love for Carlos Falcon and his two-year-old restaurant, Jarocho, in the Kansas City area. Located in Kansas City, Kansas, Jarocho pescados y Mariscos, with its bright, cantaloupe-colored walls and diner-style black booths, doesn’t resemble a traditional fine-dining restaurant, yet serves some of the most artful, progressive seafood dishes in town.

Falcon’s dishes are gorgeous, intricate love letters to his native Veracruz, Mexico. Think lobster ceviche with octopus squid-ink jelly, grilled skate, Veracruz-style whole pompano, oysters baked with shrimp, octopus, blue crab and cheese – there is nothing Falcon considers off-limits. His reputation for sourcing rare seafood from coastal cities is part of the reason his restaurant was an instant hit. In January, there will be even more of Jarocho to love as Falcon opens his second location, Jarocho South, across the state line at 13145 State Line road in Kansas City. When the new spot opens, Falcon says he’ll be splitting his time more or less evenly – cooking three days a week at each restaurant. The other part of Falcon’s success might be his disposition. The executive chef and entrepreneur is clearly ambitious – within the next few years, he hopes to open a third Mexican restaurant with a traditional fine-dining focus – but those who know Falcon are more likely to speak of his humility. To him, it’s all about the food: He just wants people to eat and be happy. –N.G. 913.281.7757, jarochokc.com pHOTOS By WILLIAM HeSS

signature dish ceviche jarocho

with fish (tuna, salmon, California white bass or snapper), onions, cilantro, chipotle and housemade ketchup

most antiCipated who: Mission Taco JoinT what: A colorful Mexicali-inspired restaurant with three

locations in the St. Louis area from brothers and St. Louis restaurateurs Adam and Jason Tilford where: 409 E. 18th Street in Kansas City’s Crossroads

Arts District when: Spring 2017 Must try:

Mix-and-match tacos such as chicken al pastor, barbecued duck, spicy chorizo and beef brisket birria Inspired Local Food Culture

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pulled-pork tacos with a jalapeño-cilantro slaw and chipotle mayonnaise

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Javier Carrillo Q39

rising star Kansas City has always been a barbecue town, but the way Q39 does it, you’d think pigs and cows were invented in the restaurant’s own hickory wood-fired smokers. And as owner rob Magee transitions from executive chef to chef-owner and entrepreneur with his forthcoming second location – set to open in Overland Park, Kansas, this summer – it’s only natural that he should share a little of the spotlight.

enter sous chef Javier Carrillo, who has worked with Magee for nearly three years and who has steadily moved up the ranks in his kitchen. he’s also managed to add another award to Q39’s ribbon-filled wall: In October, he was named Sous Chef of the year at the 2016 Greater Kansas City restaurant Association awards. Carrillo started as a line cook at Q39 and knows every station. It’s his responsibility to ensure that Magee’s award-winning barbecue plates stay up to standards – a responsibility he takes very seriously. Carrillo says Magee has taught him everything he knows about making high-quality ’cue, as he had no previous experience with barbecue. Magee entrusts Carrillo not only with executing his food, but with overseeing the kitchen, from the dishwashers and line cooks to the prep cooks and pitmaster. Carrillo has also added his own influence to the menu, including a special of pulled-pork tacos with a jalapeño-cilantro slaw and chipotle mayonnaise. At the new location, Carrillo hopes to learn even more; he and Magee have talked management, something Carrillo is keen on, given how much responsibility he’s already successfully taken on. his future plans, he says, might include running one of Magee’s restaurants. Whatever happens, Carrillo is ready to smoke the competition. –N.G.

Speak Sandwiches best new Todd Schulte and Tracy Zinn opened Speak Sandwiches in October inside Uncommon Stock, their from-scratch soup, stock and bone broth company in the Westside neighborhood of Kansas City. Speak serves classic deli sandwiches made with high-quality ingredients, including the popular housemade pastrami with thick slices of tender meat smeared with brown deli mustard topped with pickled mustard seeds, fresh dill and housemade pickles on rye. Another favorite is the Autostrada, a take on a classic Italian cold-cut sandwich with assorted salamis, sharp Provolone and cauliflower giardiniera on ciabatta. Other menu items are similarly classic (and delicious): egg salad, chicken salad and the cure-what-ails-you matzo ball soup. –J.V.

816.255.3753, q39kc.com

816.888.9474, speakkcmo.com

PhOTOS by WIllIAM heSS

PhOTO COUrTeSy SPeAK SAndWICheS

Most antiCipated who: Novel what: Chef Ryan Brazeal’s new location for his flagship fine-dining

restaurant, Novel, which he operates with his wife and the restaurant’s pastry chef, Jessica Armstrong

where: Brazeal is relocating his Westside restaurant to a chic new

East Crossroads address in Kansas City

when: Summer or Fall 2017 Must try:

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Same menu and seasonal farm-to-table philosophy as the current restaurant, with plans to add lunch service

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Kelly Conwell stock Hill

signature dish the banana and butterscotch,

a spin on banana bread made with vanilla honeybush tea and black tea served with a butterscotch semifreddo

Krokstrom Klubb & Market best new When chef Katee Mclean opened Krokstrom Klubb & Market in February, she aimed to demonstrate her own creative take on Scandinavian fare. it quickly became a hot spot for Kansas City diners. Co-owner and general manager Josh Rogers takes the same approach with Krokstrom’s bar program, serving meads and housemade aquavit, plus wine, beer and craft cocktails. in the kitchen, Mclean prepares menu items like smørrebrød, an open-faced sandwich topped with gravlax; or a pickled-shrimp salad with lemon and dill; and fika, which literally means “to take a coffee break.” At Krokstrom, fika takes the form of a dessert sampler plate meant to pair with the restaurant’s French-press coffee. –J.V.

rising star Two months after she graduated from the culinary program at Johnson County Community College in Overland Park, Kansas, Kelly Conwell distinguished herself by winning the American Culinary Foundation’s 2009 Student Chef of the Year Award. After graduation, her hard work didn’t cease: She spent a year in Europe before returning to the Kansas City area to work in the kitchen at The Raphael Hotel. She then put in three years as pastry chef at Bluestem and next worked as head pastry chef for all five of the Jax Fish & Oyster House restaurants in the Midwest. (The regional seafood restaurant chain is based in Denver, Colorado.)

Conwell, who grew up in Concordia, Kansas, now leads a team of three pastry chefs at newly opened Stock Hill, located near Country Club Plaza. She runs the restaurant’s dessert and bread programs alongside executive chef Joe West and chef de cuisine Spencer Knipper, both of whom she has strong rapports with due to their time working together at Bluestem. Conwell’s pastries are often inspired by her background in savory cooking, her library of cookbooks and her childhood memories. She cites how the nostalgia of making dessert at her grandfather’s fish-fry parties inspired the well-known s’mores dessert she developed for Jax: a soft chocolate ganache with smoked walnuts, salty butterscotch sauce and toasted marshmallow. –A.F. 816.895.8400, stockhillkc.com

816.599.7531, klubbkrokstrom.com

PHOTOS BY WilliAM HESS

PHOTO BY APRil FlEMing

Most antiCipated wHo:

Tavernonna ITalIan KITchen

wHat: Italian restaurant by Arbor Lodging Partners and

Chicago-based DMK Restaurants led by restaurateur David Morton and five-time James Beard nominee chef Michael Kornick (a yet-to-be-hired executive chef will oversee day-to-day operations)

wHere: 106 West 12th Street inside the historic Hotel Phillips in

downtown Kansas City

wHen: Early 2017 Must try:

On the dinner menu, look for housemade ravioli with goat cheese, tomato fonduta and mint pesto Inspired Local Food Culture

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In October, Andrew longres, who joined the fine-dining restaurant in the fall of 2013 as chef de cuisine, was promoted to executive chef. he oversees all culinary operations at Bluestem, and as much as Garrelts is his boss, he is also a mentor who trusts longres to instill his vision into the menu.

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rising star Bluestem is nearly a Kansas City dining institution, and in its 12-year history, there has been no executive chef other than owner Colby Garrelts – until now.

Andrew Longres bluestem

For his part, longres – whose résumé includes a three-year stint at the venerated Napa Valley restaurant The French laundry – has used his position at Bluestem to usher in a new era of collaboration in the kitchen. longres finds creative inspiration, he says, in his crew. he wants everyone on his team to have a voice, from his sous chef to line cooks, and the menu to be signature dish a reflection of their housemade ricotta cappelletti pasta shared effort under with braised rabbit his leadership. As executive chef at one of Kansas City’s legacy restaurants, longres is bound to feel the pressure. But he says he’s more than up for the challenge, and his perpetual striving-forexcellence mentality extends to the greater local culinary scene, too. under his tutelage, he says sous chefs are becoming chefs and chefs are becoming entrepreneurs and furthering the growth of the local food scene – something he’s very proud to play a part in. –N.G. 816.561.1101, bluestemkc.com PhOTOS By wIllIAM heSS

Manila Bay Ihaw-Ihaw best new In October, husband-and-wife team Phillip and Norma Thayer opened Fillipino-focused Manila Bay Ihaw-Ihaw in the Sechrest neighborhood of Kansas City. The restaurant offers an interesting blend of the couple's broasted chicken (pressure-cooked and deep-fried chicken) and Southern sides as well as Norma’s native Filipino fare. And all of those Filipino dishes are must-trys, including large sharable platters such as sisig triangle bites and lumpia and entrées like kare-kare, a peanut sauce-based stew with oxtail, bok choy, eggplant and green beans and lechon kawali, poached pork belly broasted until crispy. The interior is decorated to resemble a casual beach shack, and the service is friendly, staffed mostly by members of the Thayer family. Be sure to call ahead to place your order, or you might find yourself waiting 30 minutes or more for your food, as each dish is made from scratch. –J.V.

Journeyman Cafée best new A new combination restaurant, bar and coffee shop sprang up in Kansas City’s west Plaza neighborhood in May: Journeyman Café. Owners and father-son duo George and Kit Boje opened Journeyman, their first joint venture, in the hopes of creating a neighborhood social hub within walking distance of Country Club Plaza. The coffee shop has its own entrance for quick caffeine pit stops, and the restaurant’s dining room serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus brunch on Saturdays, and happy hour specials are offered in the bar area from 4 to 6pm Monday through Saturday. executive chef Chance hurst has put together an impressive menu built around seasonal ingredients and artful plating. Try the housemade cavatelli pasta with Gouda, oyster mushrooms and spring peas garnished with pea shoots and served in mini cast-iron pots (pictured above). –J.V.

816.379.8754, facebook.com/manilabayihawihaw

816.844.9177, journeymankc.com

PhOTO COurTeSy MANIlA BAy IhAw-IhAw

PhOTO By JeNNy VerGArA


Most anticipated Who: IbIs bakery What: A partnership space between Messenger Coffee Co. and

Kate and Chris Matsch, owners of Ibis Bakery and Fervere, the second location will house pastry-production, coffeeroasting, flour-milling, butter-making and bread-baking facilities as well as a coffee shop and café

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best neW Focused around New American cuisine, Brown & Loe opened in August

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anastasia adelman the silly goose, augusta

Flyover in Columbia, missouri best new Since opening in July, Flyover has quickly become

a favorite in Columbia, Missouri, for its constantly changing menu and playful cocktail program. The restaurant makes a variety of specialty pizzas in its custom-built wood oven, like a recent special, the Cubano, with braised pork shoulder, smoked ham, a blend of Swiss, asiago and mozzarella cheeses, pickled cucumbers, shallots and mustard seeds on top of a sweet mustard sauce. Co-owner and executive chef Adam Wells-Morgan uses woods including hickory, oak, pecan and apple to add smoky flavor to dishes such as beef and lamb meatballs and mac ‘n’ cheese made with Tillamook Cheddar sauce and pecan-smoked bacon. Wells-Morgan, a Columbia native who trained at the Culinary Institute of America in New York City, oversees a menu heavy in upscale comfort food made with seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. Servers at Flyover are as friendly and knowledgeable as they are busy, and are eager to provide dish descriptions and recommendations from the rotating menu of shareable items. The bar, which features a gorgeous copper-tin backsplash, is managed by co-owner and beverage director Dan Dethrow, who serves a well-curated selection of local spirits and craft cocktails. –A.J. 573.825.6036, flyovercomo.com phoTo bY LAureN MIerS

rising star Long before Anastasia Adelman and her mother opened The Silly Goose in Augusta, Missouri, she was learning to cook in her grandmother’s kitchen. After her parents, both in the military, were deployed during the Gulf War, Adelman stayed with her grandmother for more than a year, using fresh ingredients to whip up classic Southern fare like grits and chicken and waffles. She went on to study culinary signature dish arts in St. Louis and gained fried chicken and waffles experience at beloved local spots with bourbon-vanilla syrup like pint Size bakery in the city’s and sorghum butter Lindenwood park neighborhood. This past December marked the two-year anniversary of The Silly Goose’s opening. The small, family-focused serves high-quality dishes very near the area’s many wineries. At The Silly Goose, you’ll find traditional Southern dishes such as okra and corn fritters, country fried steak and fried green tomatoes. From December to March, the restaurant hosts theme nights on Fridays and Saturdays, featuring menus inspired by different countries, from Morocco to Italy. The Silly Goose team will also soon open a neighboring bakery offering bagels, donuts, scones, pies, tarts and coffee and hot chocolate. Adelman says The Silly Goose will soon expand its catering business and the family will turn a nearby building into a smokehouse and distillery. –S.K.

636.482.4667, sillygoosemo.com phoToS bY NATALIe hINDS

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Jamie Davis Cafe Berlin, ColumBia

rising star Although Jamie Davis, chef and kitchen manager at Cafe Berlin in Columbia, Missouri, most recently spent time in Spain and Switzerland, his culinary roots were formed closer to home. He's worked at local institutions Uprise Bakery, Sycamore and The Wine Cellar & Bistro, as well as renowned St. Louis fine-dining restaurant Sidney Street Cafe. While working with chef-owner Kevin Nashan at Sidney Street, Davis says he first saw his ideas come to life on a menu and gained the confidence to run with what inspires him in the kitchen.

At Cafe Berlin, Davis is freshening up the menu while drawing inspiration from Missouri farmers – including sourcing local eggs, chicken, beef, pork and produce – and showcasing flavors using simple yet classic cooking techniques. Preparing one ingredient multiple ways in one dish, for instance, is an approach he learned while cooking at Sidney Street.

signature dish corned beef hash

with brisket brined and rubbed with mustard, cinnamon, coriander and freshly ground black pepper, and roasted until tender

When he made the move from St. Louis back to Columbia, Davis sought a creative outlet and developed his pop-up restaurant, BirdHouse Fried Chicken, serving fried chicken sandwiches with collard greens, potato salad and peach cobbler. He makes most of the ingredients himself, from pickles and sauces to buns and biscuits, and has also experimented with fromscratch drinks like watermelon-basil soda and celery soda. The series caught on, and now Davis is considering how to adapt it into Cafe Berlin’s lineup – perhaps as a dinner menu during the restaurant’s frequent small concerts and events. Long-term, Davis hopes to find time to create a cooking program for area kids and families apart from his work at the restaurant. –V.K. 573.441.0400, cafeberlincomo.com PHoToS By AAroN oTTiS

Nourish Cafe & Market in ColumBia, missouri Best new Kimber Dean and Kalle LeMone have a passion for clean eating, and they’ve turned their shared philosophy into a business at Nourish Café & Market in Columbia, Missouri. Dean is head chef and LeMone oversees the business side of the fast-casual eatery, which opened in June. Nourish serves non-GMo, mostly organic fare free of gluten, soy, corn, hydrogenated oils and refined sugars. inside Nourish’s welcoming-yet-minimalist dining room, customers can order Nourish Bowls, which are packed with nutrient-dense superfoods such as kale, sweet potatoes and quinoa. The café also serves salads, sandwiches and wraps made with the same high-quality ingredients (including organic chicken, sustainable tuna and grass-fed steak). Cold-pressed juices, smoothies and sweets are also on offer: Try the gluten-free bread pudding with cashew icing. –A.J.

573.818.2240, nourishcafemarket.com PHoTo By Love Tree STUDioS

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audubon’s by Chaumette, ste. genevieve

rising star A year ago, Hank and Jackie Johnson, owners of Chaumette Vineyards & Winery in Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, announced the purchase of Audubon’s of Ste. Genevieve, a popular local restaurant about 40 minutes from the winery. Rob Beasley, executive chef at the winery’s Grapevine Grill, retooled the menu for signature dish the newly reopened Audubon’s, preserving the restaurant’s beloved German fare while adding Cajun influences from his grilled pork tenderloin native Louisiana. In September, chef de cuisine Nate Molnar with a cherry-black joined Audubon’s, and in late August, he took over daily pepper sauce, spätzle operations at the restaurant. Born in nearby Chester, Illinois, and braised fennel Molnar has been working in the culinary industry for 15 years, including notable stints as sous chef at Wally’s Originals in Chester, where he learned how to make from-scratch pastas, and sous chef at Opera House Bistro in Redbud, Illinois, where he helped hone the restaurant’s New American cuisine. At Audubon’s, he’s maintained the Cajun-inspired flavor of Beasley’s menu in dishes like crawfish thermidor, with crawfish cooked in lobster sauce served in a hollowed out tomato with smoked tomato coulis. He's also focused on developing seasonally driven dishes that nod to the restaurant’s German influences, including recent specials like grilled pork tenderloin with a cherry-black pepper sauce, spätzle and braised fennel. Molnar has added his own signature touch to the rotating specials, as well, like a pulled pork poutine appetizer with crispy housemade french fries, caramelized onions, roasted red

peppers, smoked Gouda and a Dijon-cream sauce. –L.M. 573.883.2479, audubonstegen.info pHOtOS By DANIeLLe RAyOuM

Brasserie French Steakhouse in Columbia, missouri best new Brasserie French Steakhouse in Columbia, Missouri, the newest restaurant from Adam Guy, the owner of umbria Rustic Italian and upper Crust Bakery, serves French-inspired fare. Open since March, Brasserie offers a range of menu items on its dinner-only menu, each influenced by traditional French cooking. Start your meal in the parisianthemed dining room with country pâté made with duck and pork livers garnished with cornichon relish and a Stilton-fig compote. Another popular starter is the

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bar à la mer, featuring a range of dishes with different combinations of fresh oysters, shrimp, clams, lobster tails, crab and smoked salmon. In addition to classic French entrées such as bouillabaisse and sole meunière, an entire section of the menu is dedicated to pomme frites, the perfect complement to the Bourgeois Burger, with veal, bacon and a poached egg served with apple-potato mash. Brasserie recently added dry-aged steaks to its menu, as well. the restaurant also benefits from sharing a kitchen with upper Crust – now outfitted with a brick oven for its from-scratch breads – and serves a variety of desserts including a flourless chocolate torte. –A.J. 573.874.3033, brasserieuc.com pHOtO COuRteSy BRASSeRIe FReNCH SteAkHOuSe


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AnnA DAvis eurasia Coffee & tea, springfield

Barred Owl Butcher & Table in Columbia, missouri best new Barred Owl Butcher & Table in Columbia, Missouri, takes a local and seasonal approach to its menu – with a focus on having its whole-animal butchery done in house. The restaurant, which opened for dinner service in October, seeks to minimize its food waste as much as possible, which means the constantly evolving menu features familiar steaks and chops as well as more unusual items such as rabbit-liver paté. There are vegetarian options, as well, including arugula salad with local Goatsbeard Farm goat cheese and pimento cheese grits. Barred Owl is co-owned by chef Ben Parks, Brandy Hughes, who manages front-of-house operations, and Joshua Smith, who oversees the butchery and retail offerings. An adjacent butcher shop is in the works, as well, as is a full-service lunch menu.

Barred Owl also offers an excellent drink selection, including cocktails with housemade mixers and shrubs, an extensive wine list, eight beer taps serving local brews and 88 – no, that’s not a typo – whiskeys. –A.J. 573.442.9323, barredowlbutcher.com PHOTO By AArOn OTTiS

rising star Brace yourself: Anna Davis’ go-to meal is not what you’d expect from the kitchen manager at Eurasia Coffee & Tea in Springfield, Missouri. instead of the refreshing carrot and spice salads and hummus platters you’ll find at Eurasia, Davis’ dinner is often a sampling of everything and anything she has in her fridge. Spoonfuls of sunflower butter followed by chips and salsa – why not? This scavenger hunt of ingredients is part of what has propelled Davis into the culinary scene in Springfield and beyond. in 2016, she won the Chopped At Home challenge, in part, thanks to her ability to combine any manner of ingredients to make a cohesive signature dish and creative dish. On Chopped At Home, Davis turned a basket of bacon, roasted sweet potato tart with red peppers, Sargento cheese and fresh spinach into tender crêpes filled with melted brie and a topping caramelized bacon and creamy roasted red pepper sauce topped with a spinach pesto of caramelized onion, and balsamic-date reduction. Davis left with the $10,000 prize and a year’s worth of dates and walnuts Sargento cheese (plus a trip to new york for a cooking lesson with Food network executive chef rob Bleifer). Her ability to create recipes on the fly has evolved over the years; she has been cooking since she was 7 years old, when she helped her mom make dinner once a week. Today, she’s busy experimenting with egg dishes and replacements for butter and sugar for menu items at Eurasia. Out of butter? She suggests you try mayonnaise. And as for that $10,000 prize money, Davis has plans for how to spend it, including growing her catering company, which she promises won’t serve spoonfuls of nut butter anytime soon. –E.B.

417.720.1949, eurasiacoffeeandtea.com PHOTOS By STArBOArD & POrT CrEATivE Inspired Local Food Culture

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signature dish rising star Surrounded by loaves of pumpkin brioche,

filled with sharp Cheddar and prosciutto dipped in garlic butter

bunko bread

sprouted corn and Cheddar muffins, loaves of caraway rye bread and trays of cookies, cream puffs and eclairs, Katie Kring, owner and baker at B+B Boulangerie, is always searching for her next big innovation. Kring’s pursuit to serve creative pastries and baked goods and willingness to say yes to new opportunities landed her a bakery and storefront in Springfield, Missouri, in the tree-lined Rountree neighborhood. When Kring first started selling her hand-iced cookies, marshmallows and bread, it was just a way to make extra dough – no pun intended – but when her business took off at local farmers’ markets, she started looking for a larger commercial kitchen. For several years Kring had a deal with Bambino’s, a neighborhood Italian restaurant: She used the kitchen overnight to make her pastries and sweets, and in return, she made hundreds of loaves of bread for the restaurant to serve with its savory sauces. the fact that Kring had never made bread before didn’t stop her – instead, she ran with the opportunity and thrived. today, any baked good or loaf of bread you try from B+B has gone through countless recipe revisions, and even when it seems like she’s nailed it, Kring is quietly brainstorming another revision. When asked what’s next for her, this baker and pastry chef says your guess is as good as hers – but you can bet it will be even better than where she is today. –E.B. 417.315.8602, facebook.com/butcherplusbaker PHotoS By StARBoARD & PoRt CReAtIve

CB Social House in springfield, Missouri best new Low lights, high energy and Southern-inspired meals are

what you’ll find at CB Social House in downtown Springfield, Missouri. CB Social House is the sister restaurant of barbecue joint City Butcher, a local favorite, owned by Cody Smith and Jeremy Smith (although the partners share a last name, they aren’t related). CB Social House serves hearty fare including fried catfish and Frito pies with just the right amount of kick. If you’re looking for something extra special, try the 42-ounce tomahawk rib eye, which is meant to be shared, as are side dishes like hand-cut fries, mashed potatoes and mac ‘n’ cheese. Patrons can either eat in the upstairs dining room or the second-floor bar area, which features a fully stocked selection of spirits with a focus on American whiskeys. And behind CB’s first-floor bar, bartender Doug Riddle serves craft cocktails with a pre-Prohibition-era influence. –A.P. 417.368.0778, facebook.com/cbsocialhouse PHoto By StARBoARD & PoRt CReAtIve

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Katie Kring b+b boulangerie, springfield


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Andy HAmpsHire farMers gastropub, springfield signature dish rising star Aside from his British roots – and accent – and love of fresh ingredients, Andy Hampshire is arguably best known in Springfield, Missouri, for his love of pork. As he always says, you can eat the whole thing from the tail to the hoof to the head. Pork makes a regular appearances on the menu at Farmers Gastropub in Springfield, from pig-ear tacos and hot-and-sticky pork spare ribs to a pork-encased Scotch egg and slow-cooked pork shank served with tender spätzle and a mushroom-sage sauce. Since taking over as owner and executive chef of Farmers Gastropub in November 2015, Hampshire has slowly shed the menu of classic British pub food in favor of more contemporary fare. Gone are the bangers and mash – in its place, Hampshire serves thick curry laced with juicy tomatoes, cilantro, smoked trout and housemade naan. Always eager to pop out of the kitchen to chat with guests and share a pint at the bar, Hampshire is at home at Farmers, and yet eager to push himself

chicken livers with housemade onion gravy and grilled sourdough baguette

outside of his comfort zone in the kitchen. –E.B. 417.864.6994, farmersgastropub.com PHotoS By StArBoArd & Port creAtive

B+B Boulangerie in springfield, Missouri best new When B+B Boulangerie opened in

February 2016 it was under the name Butcher + Baker. customers quickly queued up for the shop’s impressive selection of house-cured meats, freshly baked breads, housemade cakes, marshmallows and pies. Nearly hidden behind Homegrown Food in the quiet rountree neighborhood, Butcher + Baker could barely fit more than five customers inside at a time, and the kitchen wasn’t much larger. in November, Butcher + Baker dropped the butcher portion of its business to focus on baked goods and sweets, and changed its name to B+B Boulangerie. the name

might have changed, but the selection of breads and sweets is just as unusual as it ever was. With owner and baker Katie Kring at the helm, the traditional baguettes and loaves of plain whole-wheat bread have been traded for rustic baguettes and giant pretzels. chocolate cakes feature black currant fondant and 24-karat gold leaf. Loaves of maple-granola bread, wild rice-onion bread and cheesy sprouted cornbread are all proof of Kring’s innovative style, which she also shares with customers through baking classes at the shop. Not surprisingly, classes sell out well in advance, so be sure to follow B+B on Facebook for news of upcoming class themes and dates. –E.B. 417.315.8602, facebook.com/butcherplusbaker PHoto By ettie BerNeKiNG

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Zach White the order, springfield

signature dish rising star Skimming the dinner menu at The Order seared scallop with local inside Hotel Vandivort in Springfield, Missouri, diners chèvre-creamed corn, braised pork are tempted with hearty dishes like pillowy rosemary cheek, smoked tomato sauce and gnocchi, tender duck breast, pork belly sliders and plump balsamic-fig reduction garnished diver scallops. But look a little closer and you’ll also spot with parsley and chive microgreens dishes like mushroom farro, a vegetarian special this past fall, or the rotating wild game special of the week. This balance of familiar and unexpected defines the cooking style of executive chef Zach White, whose work has been influenced by several chefs and family members. White grew up on his mom’s pot roast, mashed potatoes and fried chicken (always made in a cast-iron skillet with plenty of Crisco). He learned knife skills at Clary’s Restaurant in Springfield, where he sliced his way through boxes of mushrooms and learned to make soufflés, peel tomatoes, break down chickens. The executive chef at Clary's was eager to teach him about flavor and technique – something White, in turn, strives to share with his cooks today. When White was offered a sous chef position in the Caribbean, those pot roasts and mushrooms were traded for fresh fish and seafood; the impact of that experience is apparent on White’s menu at The Order, where red snapper, halibut and scallops top the list of best-selling entrées. As for White’s Missouri roots and rib-sticking, home-style cooking, he uses his mom’s recipes

for ham glaze: brown sugar, lemon juice and horseradish. –E.B. 417.832.1515, theordersgf.com pHOTOS By STARBOARd & pORT CReATiVe

Druff’s in springfield, Missouri best new druff’s doesn’t serve grilled cheese like your mama makes – unless your mama makes one crazy

grilled cheese. The restaurant’s range of cheese options is impressive (Cheddar, cream cheese, goat cheese, housemade pimento, provolone, mozzarella, Gouda and Gruyère), and gives each sandwich a distinct and memorable flavor. The Good doctor, for example, is made with Cheddar, cream cheese, bacon and jalapeños on sourdough; if you’re not ready for some serious heat, a good doctor might be what you need. if you like some sweet with your savory, try the Uncle Tatey, with goat cheese, slightly spicy pork, fresh strawberries, a balsamic-strawberry reduction spread and red pepper flakes on wheat. The restaurant has a modern diner feel with a light, marble-topped bar and oversized photography by Springfield-based photographer Julie Blackmon. And if you stop in at the right time, you might find one or both of druff’s co-owners, Vance Hall and Andrew Heilman, available to recommend a drink to pair with your sandwich order. –A.P. 417.719.1719, yumdruffs.com pHOTO By AnA pieRCe

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DeWayne Schaaf Celebrations restaurant, Cape girardeau

Walnut Street Tap + Kitchen in Columbia, missouri

rising star DeWayne Schaaf has quietly become something of a mainstay in the culinary scene in Cape Girardeau, Missouri. He’s been with the fine-dining destination Celebrations Restaurant since 1998, working his way up from pantry chef. Schaaf originally studied film in school, but he has been cooking all his life with his family, who are of German heritage; he says Celebrations guests can find many of those influences and flavors on the menu. As the restaurant’s executive chef, Schaaf is currently serving a winter lineup featuring classic root vegetables, winter squash, a rich and hearty duck breast and grilled pork belly. (Schaaf’s longest-running item on the Celebrations menu is the bacon-wrapped pork loin, a house favorite.) Other standouts include sticky toffee-carrot cake and escargot with white wine and shallots. Schaaf praises the new energy pulsing through Cape Girardeau’s dining scene – from new specialty food shops, food trucks and breweries – and describes it as the most vibrant he’s seen in recent memory. When asked where he sees himself in the next few years, Schaaf says he plans to keep making great food for the city he loves. –S.K.

573.334.8330, celebrations-restaurant.com pHOtOS by ElAinE ROHDE

best new When Mike tregnago and Dustin Del Grosso began envisioning a new eatery for Columbia, Missouri, they asked themselves where they would like to eat. the outcome was Walnut Street tap + Kitchen, tregnago’s downtown pub with a new Mexican twist, which opened in August. Chef Del Grosso, who honed his cooking skills at restaurants in new Mexico, sources fresh red and green chiles to put a Southwest spin on burgers, sandwiches and starters. the Rio Rancho burger is topped with green chiles, bacon and Cheddar, while the new Mexican fries offer a choice of red or green chile sauce smothered in beer cheese. popular sandwiches include the pressed Cubano, piled high with citrus-marinated pork shoulder, ham, Swiss, mustard and housemade pickles. in addition to the pickles, Del Grosso makes fresh sauerkraut and salsa from scratch. A different specialty taco is advertised on the restaurant’s Facebook page each tuesday, often paired with a drink special. Walnut Street features a full bar with 10 taps, most of them dedicated to Missouri or Midwest breweries. –A.J.

573.397.6396 facebook.com/walnutstreettap pHOtO COuRtESy WAlnut StREEt tAp + KitCHEn

signature dish bacon-wrapped pork loin

with smoked mashed sweet potatoes and a blue cheese-apple-arugula salad with a honey glaze

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Damien Tiregol Crabby’s seafood bar & grill, Joplin

rising star One of Damien Tiregol’s greatest strengths is his consistency. Tiregol, the chef-owner of Crabby’s Seafood Bar & Grill in Joplin, Missouri, approaches the creation of each dish with a thoughtful meticulousness, whether for the dinner menu at Crabby’s or the special five-course Chef’s Table dinners he hosts at the restaurant. Past Chef’s Table dinners have included tastings of foie gras, monkfish, Wagyu rib eye, crispy plantains and braised pork belly, while regular menu items available during dinner service include an aged signature dish rib eye with white truffle mashed potatoes and pan-seared Chilean pan-seared scallops sea bass. Tiregol’s eye for artful basted in sherry and butter served plating and attention to detail makes with roasted Yukon gold potatoes, his dishes almost too pretty to eat bacon confit, asparagus purée and – almost – and he’s as decisive and a lemon buerre blanc garnished self-assured in the kitchen as he is with microgreens approachable in the dining room. Tiregol is passionate about educating consumers about his craft, as well, which has inspired an idea for a second restaurant: Eventually, he hopes to open a place that seats 40 or 50 and features an open kitchen with low counters so guests can watch

their meals being prepared. –A.P. 417.206.3474, crabbysjoplin.com PhOTOS By Mark NEuENSChWaNDEr

La Burguesa in Columbia, missouri best new During a show at rose Music hall in Columbia, Missouri, belly up to the La Burguesa counter for a loaded hot dog or burger to pair with your beer. The burger concept debuted inside the club in October, replacing Pepe’s of Columbia, a food truck that formerly served tacos in the space. Burgers have playful themes, like the El Jefe, topped with avocado, black beans, tortilla strips, tomato, lettuce, pepper Jack cheese and La Burguesa sauce, and The Big Pig, with barbecue sauce, pickles, ham, smoked pork and bacon. The all-beef hot dogs – or “dogs of doom,” as

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they’re called at La Burguesa – are similarly themed, including the Lower East Side, with stone-ground mustard, sauerkraut and grilled onions, and the Chili Con Carne, a messy pile of house chili, Cheddar, onions, jalapeños and onion “crunchies.” Burgers are served on rustic cornmeal-dusted rolls while dogs come on freshly baked buns. La Burguesa also serves a selection of chicken sandwiches and sides, including seasoned fries and Low Down Dirty Fries topped with chili and cheese or cheese sauce, ham and bacon. Be sure to check La Burguesa’s Facebook page for business hours, as it only serves food during shows at the rose. –L.M. 573.289.4127, facebook.com/laburguesacomo PhOTO COurTESy La BurGuESa


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Daniel ernce progress, springfield

Zayka in springfield, Missouri best new Downtown Springfield, Missouri, has a lot to offer, and finally, Indian food is on the menu. Zayka co-owners Davinder and Gurpreet Gill prepare regional favorites from their native Punjab, India, including samosas, chole bhature and pakoras. Zayka is located on South Jefferson Ave., less than a block from Missouri State University (MSU) and next door to MSU’s off-campus International Services Center. For lunch, customers can either order off the menu or choose dishes from a 20-item buffet – one of Zayka’s greatest assets, as guests can sample a variety of dishes inspired by different regions of Punjab. On weekends, Zayka offers Indian street food-specials, such as golgappa – also known as panipuri – a fried crisp with sweet or savory fillings; fruit chaat, fresh fruit with chaat masala; and dahi bhalla, a savory fried snack served with a thick yogurt sauce. –A.P.

417.351.4400, zaykaspringfield.com PhOtO by AnA PIerCe

rising star Chef Daniel ernce’s work is driven by a love of constantly learning and improving, and by bringing people joy through food. raised in Springfield, Missouri, he fell into cooking somewhat by fate: ernce attended college with the dream of authoring cookbooks, longing to give voice to the creations of chefs he admired. After landing a job at food-innovation and marketing firm Food IQ in Springfield, ernce learned that while he had a way with words, he had a “why” with preparing food. today, alongside Cassidy rollins and Michael “Jersey” Schmitz, he’s introduced Progress, a monthly pop-up dining series, in Springfield. ernce considers four essentials to every menu he develops: flavor, texture, aroma signature dish and the meal's dynamic. Past Progress the onion course menus include the high-end Low Country, Whole-roasted onions, quartered, which featured a course of oxtail dumplings with a smoked onion-olive oil with caramelized soubise and chives, and emulsion, scallion ash and bacon the time and Place dinner, with a course of whole-roasted onions, quartered, with a smoked onion-olive oil emulsion, scallion ash and bacon. ernce hopes to continue to travel to restaurants across the globe to learn more about food from esteemed chefs, as well as experiment with new techniques and flavors. this spring, he plans to spend three months at venerated chef rené redzepi’s new 108 restaurant in Copenhagen. Ultimately, ernce hopes to bring the experiences he gains working in world-renowned kitchens back to Springfield to enrich the local dining scene. –A.P.

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#feastgram smoothie bowl goals

This month, we’re kicking off the new year on a healthy note. We asked for the smoothies you’re devouring – whether sipped through a straw or arranged into an artful smoothie bowl – by using the hashtag #feastgram.

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| 1 | caroline been @carolineebeen (At Main Squeeze) | 2 | anna beck @urban.apron Hello #NationalChocolateDay! Celebrating with this cocoa smoothie bowl... there’s kale hidden in there! [banana, nut milk, kale, cocoa powder, chia seeds, almond butter and a date] #TGIF #PlantBased

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| 3 | ruby jean’s juicery @rubyjeansjuicery Made with açai, banana, strawberries, pineapple and agave, then coated with granola and topped with more strawberries, blueberries, coconut flakes and agave. #HealthyKC

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| 4 | source juicery @sourcejuicery Our all-natural açai bowl is simply the best, plus it’s the perfect way to fuel your busy day the happy, healthy and whole way. | 5 | christy prust @christyprust Sundays call for açai berry bowls, avocado toast and good company (at Nourish Cafe & Market)

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| 6 | sherrie castellano @withfoodandlove Beet and berry smoothie bowls with lemon thyme from my garden on the blog now! | 7 | katy @kdbalancedfit A little festive @perfectfit smoothie bowl this morning! I made the kiwi crush smoothie topped with a little unsweetened coconut, pomegranate seeds and @so_delicious unsweetened yogurt!

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| 8 | rebecca corman @rebecca.corman Sometimes my breakfast looks like a pile of bird food and that’s life.

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| 9 | kelsey @whatkelseyeats Supercharge with a delightful morning parfait: sweet potato, Greek yogurt from Windcrest Dairy, pomegranate seeds and homemade toasted maple oats. | 10 | main squeeze @mainsqueezecolumbiamo It’s brunch time. Come get an açai bowl!

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Want to see your photos in the February issue of Feast?

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Next month, we’re celebrating the sweets issue with what else? Cake! We want to see the cakes you’re making and buying, from delicate patisserie creations to those homemade with love. To submit your photos for consideration, simply include the hashtag #feastgram and tag @feastmag on your Instagram photos beginning Sun., Jan. 1.


FEAST 50 BEST PIZZA WINNER F E A S T 5 0 B E S T PA S TA R U N N E R U P B R U N C H • S AT + S U N • 1 0 - 2 POWER LUNCH • M-F

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WINTER

CHEER! Mix or Match any 6 or more 750ml bottles of wine!

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s e d u l Inc ne g a p Cham kling r a p S & ! Wine


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