the art of the table
sip away the summer heat
shortcut to sophistication
DINE BY DESIGN
BOOZY BLENDS
PÂTÉ MADE EASY
/ Inspired Food Culture / Saint Louis /
AUGUST 2 010
CHE
CK
IT O
SINK YO U INTO TH R TEETH IS CULT CLASSIC
WHITE BARN BURGERS
UT!
)($'! #(%*&" We’ve partnered with local farms like
Eckert’s Farms and Thies Farms & Greenhouses because they grow some of summer’s finest and tastiest produce. Fabulous fresh peaches, tomatoes and squash are in your store within hours of harvest. Stop by your neighborhood Schnucks and get the pick of the homegrown crop!
©2010 Schnucks
Inspired Food Culture
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AUGUST 2010
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The taste of
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AUGUST 2010
COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY
Tuan Lee
/ Inspired Food Culture / Saint Louis /
White Barn Burgers
42
August 2010 FROM THE STAFF
| 10 |
FEASTSTL.COM
Check out this month’s online content!
| 12 |
FROM THE PUBLISHER
An invitation to Feast.
| 14 |
FEAST FAVES
This month’s inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis. COLUMNS
| 28 |
MY STUFF
From the home of Kevin Nashan.
| 31 |
I'M CRUSHED
64 TABLE SCAPE
51
GADGET A�GO�GO
We’ve put five grill baskets to the test!
| 32 |
ON THE SHELF
New and notable in wine, spirits and beer.
| 34 |
MYSTERY SHOPPER
Buy it and try it: black garlic.
| 36 |
THE CHEAT
A simple way to make pâté.
| 38 |
DECONSTRUCTED DISHES
Explore the ingredients of Bon Bon Chicken.
| 74 |
PULL UP A CHAIR
The Vegetal chair and five perfectly paired tables.
56
FLAMING FISH
Inspired Food Culture
Saint Louis
7
A fabulous party begins with a fabulous invitation
Giving profits to local charities Since 1930 / Inspired Food Culture / Saint Louis /
Volume 1 / Issue 1 / August 2010
Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville
Fine Stationery & Gifts
Managing Editor Brandi Wills
9773 CLAYTON ROAD • 314.991.1104
Art Director Lisa Triefenbach Advertising Sales Director Donna Bischoff Copy Editor Andrea Mongler Contributing Writers Shera Dalin, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pat Eby, Chad Michael George, Erik Jacobs, Jennifer Johnson, Angela Ortmann, Barbara E. Stefàno, Michael Sweeney, Cassandra Vires
85 LASHES RUM PRESENTS...
Contributing Photographers Geoff Cardin, Ashley Gieseking, Tuan Lee, Greg Rannells, Jennifer Silverberg, Carmen Trosser
Contact Us Feast Media 14522 S. Outer Forty Road Town and Country, MO 63107 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Donna Bischoff 314.340.8529 ads@feastSTL.com
STARRING
Editorial Comments editor@feastSTL.com
DONHO
STEVEMcGARRET
THOMASMAGNUM
SPECIALGUESTSTAR ARNOLDAS“DINNER”
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1821CHEROKEEST.,ST.LOUIS,MO63118 314-771-8500 www.thestablestl.com FINDUSONFACEBOOK:facebook.com/amalgamatedbrew&TWITTER:twitter.com/amalgamatedbrew ANOTHERGREATEVENTBROUGHTTOYOUBY85LASHESATTHESTABLE www.85lashes.com
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AUGUST 2010
Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. A publication of Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC A Lee Enterprises Company
Inspired Food Culture
Saint Louis
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ONLINE CONTENT
ST L .C O M ONLINE CONTENT
T H I S M O N T H ’ S F E A S T � M U LT I M E D I A � B LO G � R E C I P E S � TA S T E F U L C O M M E R C E
DINNER & A SHOW QUITE THE PAIR DAY IN THE LIFE SHOP GIRL TRAVELOGUE
Feast contributors travel the world to bring you food culture from all corners of the globe. First up: Jennifer Silverberg explores Haiti.
TRAVELOGUE.
ONLINE COLUMN SCHEDULE: MONDAY: Shop Girl TUESDAY: Day in the Life Join Pat Eby each week as she gets to know the food folks behind the scenes of St. Louis’ culinary world. WEDNESDAY: Quite the Pair Local wine expert Angie Ortmann visits a different restaurant each week, chooses a stellar dish and peruses the wine list for a perfect pair. THURSDAY: Dinner and a Show
FEAST MEDIA EXTRA! Check out the
FeastSTL.com video section for recipe how-tos and on-location footage.
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AUGUST 2010
SHOP GIRL. Columnist Heidi Dean takes you inside St. Louis’ hidden culinary gems.
FEAST ONLINE EXCLUSIVE! Follow
Wanderlust chef and creator Erik Jacobs as he builds his rolling restaurant.
In partnership with KDHX 88.1 FM, we bring you each weekend’s mustsee concert pick and suggest where to dine before the music begins.
FRIDAY: Travelogue
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www.hometown-hearing.com Inspired Food Culture
Saint Louis
11
FROM THE PUBLISHER
A
mericans have never been as obsessed with food as we are today. But we’ve also never been so far removed from it. We can rattle off the names of our favorite contestants on Top
Chef and talk about what the Barefoot Contessa made on her last show, but still, for many people, cooking is a spectator sport. Over the past decade, I’ve had the privilege of being a part of the culinary conversation in St. Louis. With this, the first issue of Feast Magazine, my hope is to expand the conversation even further. Feast is designed to bring our readers fresh inspiration about everything food-related in the St. Louis region. Restaurants, chefs, bars, bartenders – Feast will keep you abreast of who’s doing what in the industry. And beyond giving you ideas for where to go when you want to dine out, Feast brings you a wealth of ideas for how to enliven your culinary world at home. Turn to us for ideas on cooking, gadgets, innovative appliances, kitchen and dining room design … if it relates to food, you’ll find it in our pages and on our website. There is much more to the enjoyment of food
PS
FEAST EVENTS
JOIN ME! Each month, Feast Magazine hosts cooking classes, wine tastings and other events in conjunction with St. Louis’ food industry leaders. Don’t miss your chance to interact directly with these professionals and mingle with your fellow food lovers!
Cooking Class Fri., Aug. 13, 6��, L’Ecole Culinaire, 314.587.2433
Chef-instructor Matt Borchardt takes a cue from this month’s Flaming Fish feature and will show you how to make a grilled Missouri trout ceviche, chile-rubbed grilled shrimp, corianderfennel crusted scallops and a charcoal-
than what’s on your plate, and Feast is designed to
blackened bass.
make you eager to explore all aspects of St. Louis’
Wine Tasting
culinary culture. I invite you to join me at the table each month and look forward to enjoying our local food culture together.
Thu., Aug. 19, 6��, 1111 Mississippi, Lafayette Square
Feast columnist and STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann will lead you through a free happy hour wine tasting that focuses on 1111 Mississippi’s Italian and Californian wines.
Cooking Class
Catherine Neville
Wed., Aug. 25, 6��, Schnucks Cooking School, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704
Get to know Feast columnist and Schnucks Cooking School manager Gabrielle DeMichele as she leads a hands-on class at the Schnucks Cooking School in Des Peres. Learn how to make a full Japanese meal, including the Bon Bon Chicken featured on page 38. You’ll also feast on crispy tempura, pickled ginger, plum wine sorbet and Japanese Christmas cakes. FEEDBACK?
���������@��������.��� 12
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AUGUST 2010
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Tuan Lee
Hope you’re hungry,
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Inspired Food Culture
Saint Louis
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FEAST FAVES / W HERE WE’RE DINING
Pi On The Spot twitter.com/PiTruckSTL EVERYWHERE
PI ON THE SPOT
Pi is known for its innovative use of technology, and Pi On The Spot takes that innovation even further with the use of Square (squareup.com), a mobile credit card processing system developed by a St. Louisan and destined to revolutionize electronic payment technology.
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AUGUST 2010
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Geoff Cardin
Taking a cue from the national trend toward mobile eats, Pi (restaurantpi.com) debuted Pi On The Spot in late June, offering a slice of its beloved menu from a window in the side of what was once a taco truck. Chef Marc Baltes says the truck tweets its location, and the menu each day has two deep-dish pizza options – one meat and one veggie. Desserts from well-known pastry chef Matthew Rice are in the works.
FEAST FAVES / SECRET INGREDIENT
JAPANESE NACHOS
Sherrill Gonterman & Melissa Sinamon
Spiked Lemon Grilled Shrimp
SHISO LEAVES “They have a unique fresh floral flavor,” chef Eliott Harris says when describing shiso leaves. Shiso leaves taste like a cross between basil and mint and are rarely found in restaurant dishes, but at Miso on Meramec the herb graces wellexecuted sushi and also serves as the “chip” in Harris’ Japanese nacho. “You
314.647.5350 www.lachef.com
• 3 lbs. Lg. shrimp, peeled, deveined, tail-on • ½ tsp. paprika • ½ cup butter, melted • 1 tsp. salt • 3 Tbls. lemon juice
have to cook it to order,” Harris says of the tempura shiso leaves that he tops with spicy tuna, tobiko (flyingfish roe), cucumbers and avocado. If you want to work with shiso leaves in your own kitchen, Harris suggests heading to Olive Farmers’ Market (8041 Olive Blvd., University City), where they’re available for purchase.
• ½ tsp. pepper • ¼ cup olive oil • 2 tsp. worcestershire • ¼ cup fresh parsley, chopped • 1 ½ Tbls. garlic, minced • 1 shot tequila (optional)
Place 6 shrimp on a 6” skewer. Combine remaining ingredients and brush over shrimp. Marinate shrimp skewers at room temperature for 30 minutes or refrigerate 2-3 hours. Grill on high heat until just opaque, about 2 minutes on each side. Garnish with grilled lemon halves. Enjoy!
Miso on Meramec 16 N. Meramec Ave., Clayton 314.863.7888 misolounge.com
Great as an hors d’oeuvre, entrée or added to any pasta or salad.
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FEAST FAVES / AT HOME
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ITALIAN CHEFS BUY LOCALLY AND COOK ITALIAN.
PHOTOGRAPHY: JAPANESE NACHO BY Geoff Cardin; SHISO LEAF ©ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/KANTAPAT
AT ACERO, WE BUY LOCALLY AND COOK ITALIAN. |3|
CHOPSTICKS! | 1 | Clothespin Chopsticks, $3.95 each; CB2.com | 2 | Twiggy Chopsticks, $10; Anthropologie, St. Louis Galleria, Richmond Heights, anthropologie.com | 3 | Sweets Chopstick Rest Set, $28 for set of four; MoMAstore.org
LOCAL PRODUCE LOCAL FARMERS & RANCHERS ITALIAN WINES ACERO. ITALY IN MAPLEWOOD Acero 314-644-1790 The Terrace View 314-436-8855 Liluma 314-361-7771 The Crossing 314-721-7375 WWW.FIALAFOOD.COM Inspired Food Culture
Saint Louis
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Train to become a
FEAST FAVES / WHERE WE’RE DINING
Culinary Professional!
And create your future. Le Cordon Bleu programs offer:
• • • • •
Hands-on training Experienced chef instructors Externship opportunities Day and evening classes Financial aid for those who qualify
Erato Wine Bar and Restaurant 618.307.3203 EDWARDSVILLE
Text STLCOOK2 to 78573 or call
StLouisLCB52.com 7898 Veterans Memorial Parkway | St. Peters, MO 63376 Le Cordon Bleu ® and the Le Cordon Bleu logo are registered trademarks of Career Education Corporation. Le Cordon Bleu does not guarantee employment or salary. CEC2349407 06/10
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feastSTL.com
AUGUST 2010
ERATO
WI NE BAR AND RESTAURANT
Late summer is high season for lovers of local produce, and at Erato Wine Bar and Restaurant chef Jon Olson is turning out a well-edited (and frequently updated) menu of ingredient-inspired dishes. Olson cranks out all of his pastas in-house, including the rich short-rib-and-ricotta ravioli. Each dish is accompanied by local, seasonal accents,
such as the sweet creamed corn and spicy pepper relish that enhance rather than overwhelm the delicate flavor of striped bass. And for dessert? Try the rich, tangy lemon curd with mint foam. 126 N. Main St., Edwardsville eratoonmain.com
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Geoff Cardin
1.877.451.5222
FEAST FAVES / FOOD STUFF
SPICE UP GRILLED DISHES Pour on these singular sauces to bring notable flavor to your late-summer barbecue.
BEST ON: BEEF & LAMB
BEST ON: ALL WHITE MEATS
ONE YEAR ONE SEATING ONE CHEF
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| 1 | Andria’s Brush-On Steak Sauce, $4; Andria’s Steak House, andrias.com | 2 | A L’Olivier Poivron Au Piment Vinaigre (TomatoRed Pepper Vinegar), $14.95; Extra Virgin, an Olive Ovation, 143 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, extravirginoo.com | 3 | Werewolf Everything Sauce, $4.50; Devil’s Breath Chile Co., chilestuff.com
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Saint Louis
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AUGUST 2010
FEAST FAVES / W HERE WE’RE DRIN KING
The Terrace View ���.���.���� DOWNTOWN
VIOLETTE VOYAGE It’s August and we’re in the thick of another hot, muggy summer. Right, right, it’s the humidity. But really, it’s the heat too. So when you’re ready to call it a day and cool off with a cocktail, head to The Terrace View in Downtown’s beautifully designed Citygarden. Take a seat at the bar in this modern, spare space and order the Violette Voyage. Sweet and cold with a citrus edge, this colorful cocktail will help you melt into a soft summer evening. The Terrace View 808 Chestnut St., Downtown fialafood.com
Violette Voyage Serves | 1 | 2 oz 1½ oz
Crème de Violette Stoli Ohranj vodka zest of ¼ orange soda water Sprite
| Preparation | In a cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine the Crème de Violette, vodka and orange zest. Shake thoroughly and pour into a highball glass. Top the cocktail with a splash of soda and a splash of Sprite.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Geoff Cardin
Z E ST E R S | 1 | Microplane Ultimate Citrus Tool, $12.99; Macy’s, multiple locations, macys.com | 2 | Chef’n PalmZester, $7.99; Provisions Gourmet Market, 11615 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, provisionsmarket.com | 3 | Zyliss Zester, $8.95; Chef’s Shoppe, 2320 Troy Road, Edwardsville, chefsshoppe.com
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Inspired Food Culture
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FEAST FAVES / DESIGN TRENDS WE LOVE
ON TREND Are some of your plates so beautiful you hesitate to use them at dinnertime? Good news for you: Displaying decorative plates is making a comeback! You may remember this design trend from visits to Grandma’s back in the day, but wall-worthy contemporary designs are cropping up left and right in a variety of looks and price points. (We recommend that you mix and match with your favorite retro patterns.) And if you need help arranging your display, you can always call on Gram for design advice.
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| 1 | Lennox Simply Fine “Chirp” bread and butter plate, $12; Dillard’s, Chesterfield Mall, Chesterfield, dillards.com | 2 | De Vincennes dinner plate in “Owl,” $24; Anthropologie, St. Louis Galleria, Richmond Heights, anthropologie.com | 3 | Graphite salad plate, $4.95; CB2.com | 4 | John Derian rectangular plate, $55; Twigs & MOSS, 7715 Clayton Road, Clayton, 314.454.0447 | 5 | Rosina Antique Trio plate, $20; English Living, 1520 Washington Ave., Downtown, englishliving.com | 6 | Champignons plate, $24; Anthropologie | 7 | Petal green salad plate, $3.95; CB2.com | 8 | Burleigh cake plate, $64; English Living | 9 | Wilma yellow dessert plate, $2.95; CB2.com | 10 | Lotus dinner plate, $10; Anthropologie | 11 | From The Deep salad plate in “Octopus,” $14; Anthropologie | 12 | John Derian rectangular plate, $55; Twigs & MOSS | 13 | Francophile dinner plate in “Eiffel Tower,” $24; Anthropologie | 14 | Kate Spade “Dogwood Point” dessert plate, $17; Dillard’s, Chesterfield Mall 20
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AUGUST 2010
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Inspired Food Culture
Saint Louis
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YOU wouldn’t wear the SAME dress
FEAST FAVES / THE DISH
For 5, 10, 15 years or more..... At 15–75% OFF our outlet prices, your WINDOWS won’t have to either. THE SUMMER SELL-DOWN EVENT EVERYTHING ON SALE GOING ON NOW
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feastSTL.com
AUGUST 2010
636-227-4543 www.lukasliquorstl.com
Grown-ups love ice cream just as much as kids, and at The BitterSweet Bakery in Benton Park, sophisticated flavors satisfy adult cravings. Starting with highquality ingredients – never a commercial ice cream base – pastry chef Leanna Russo crafts frozen treats ranging from tart lemon curd to salty caramel, in which sea salt plays off sweet caramel ice cream and roasted cashews. Chocolate lovers will head straight to the Valrhona Guanaja, which is made with 70 percent Guanaja chocolate, and if you’re a fan of coffee ice cream, don’t miss the espresso bean and toffee flavor, which features espresso ice cream blended with salty, chocolate-covered toffee. 2200 Gravois Ave., Benton Park thebittersweetbakery.com
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Geoff Cardin
Beefeater
Estancia
Chardonny 2 for $16
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Ashley Gieseking
FEAST FAVES / SHOP�O�MATIC
Grand Petite Market
GRAND PETITE MARKET Owned and operated by Paul and Wendy Hamilton (of Vin de Set and 1111 Mississippi fame), this culinary specialty store is targeted to gourmands of every degree. Grand Petite Market carries a unique selection of kitchenware, gourmet prepared foods and imported ingredients for the home cook as well as tasteful tabletop décor for the haute host. Stop by to experiment with inventive gadgets and exotic spices, shop a selection of J.A. Henckels International knives and cookware, and find endless inspiration from a number of wine guides and cookbooks.
314.241.7799 LAFAYETTE SQUARE
Drawing on the Hamiltons’ travels to Northern California, Italy and Southern France, the shop also offers a diverse selection of wines and hand-selected specialty food items. A number of tasty treats such as smoked seafood, imported olives, and delicious dips and cheeses can be made into gift baskets for special occasions or picnic packs to enjoy anywhere you want to savor a delectable snack. 2017 Chouteau Ave., Lafayette Square grandpetitemarket.com
FEAST FAVES / WHAT WE’RE DRINKING
SPANISH WHITES
WRITTEN BY
Jennifer Johnson
Consider white wines of Spain as alternatives to mainstream pinot gris or unoaked chardonnay. Verdejo and albariño are terrific options, and in recent years Spain’s new generation of winemakers has refined its tendency to produce clean, fresh and somewhat simple whites, instead crafting far more compelling, complex versions that balance freshness with aromatics and flavor. The verdejo grape from central Spain is medium-bodied, aromatic and slightly herbaceous, while the albariño grape from the cool northwest Rias Baixas region exhibits stone fruit, mineral and floral characteristics with occasional tropical fruit flavors.
2009 NESSA ALBARIÑO
2008 PASO A PASO VERDEJO
Rias Baixes, Galicia
La Mancha
This wine bursts with white peaches, offering hints of honeysuckle and minerality, and finishes long with citrus notes of oranges and lemon zest. Pair with broiled fish or poultry seasoned with fresh herbs and fruit-based desserts such as cobbler.
This wine has aromas of pineapple, kiwi and orange blossoms with soft, honeyed flavors of guava and pink grapefruit. Pair with light to medium-fatty fish such as trout or halibut, lightly dressed salads, and barbecued vegetables.
$17; The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com
$10; Devine Wines & Spirits, 2961 Dougherty Ferry Road, Kirkwood, 636.825.9647 Inspired Food Culture
Saint Louis
23
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FEAST FAVES / W HAT WE’RE BUYING
OUTDOOR LIGHTING It’s the time of year for late-night libations and dinners at dusk. Dress up your outdoor entertaining with these enlightened designs.
|1|
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|5| | 1 | Pod Lens System, $144; ylighting.com | 2 | SuperArchimoon Outdoor, $17,595; flos.com | 3 | The Sundborn by Elk, $178.20; Metro Lighting, multiple locations, metrolightingcenters.com | 4 | Vintage Light String, $142.99; Restoration Hardware, St. Louis Galleria, Richmond Heights, restorationhardware.com | 5 | Louver by Craftmade, $95; Metro Lighting, multiple locations, metrolightingcenters.com
Inspired Food Culture
Saint Louis
25
Each meal is an occasion to celebrate at The Gatesworth, where award-winning Executive Chef Brian Hardy and his talented staff create sumptuous dishes that tempt and delight. Experience our exquisite retirement lifestyle for yourself by calling (314) 372-2288.
at
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feastSTL.com
AUGUST 2010
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Where attitude is everything. *Our attitude towards our workmanship. *Our attitude in choosing our materials. and most importantly, *Our attitude towards our customers.
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Inspired Food Culture
Saint Louis
27
MY STUFF
KEVIN NASHAN OF SIDNEY STREET CAFÉ
First cookbook you ever purchased? The Inn at Little Washington Cookbook: A
Consuming Passion by Patrick O’Connell / Favorite cookbook? Cooking by Hand by Paul Bertolli / Favorite beer? O’Fallon Brewery’s Goat’s Breath Bock Ale / Dream dinner? Michel Bras in Laguiole, France, with Mina / Who’s in your iPod? Eminem, Rage Against the Machine, Tim McGraw / Max’s favorite food? Avocado / Ideal Sunday morning? Hanging with the fam / Secret ingredient? Salt / Typical after-work meal? Leftovers from whatever Max ate for dinner / Personal choice for pots and pans? Lodge Cast Iron Cookware or Staub en France / Personal choice for knives? Michel Bras knives / Favorite chocolate? Bissinger’s / Favorite bacon? Burgers’ Smokehouse (their jowl bacon is amazing) / Necessary indulgence? Traveling … and did I mention cookbooks?
Sidney Street Café 2000 Sidney St., Benton Park 314.771.5777 sidneystreetcafe.com 28
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AUGUST 2010
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Greg Rannells
Co-owners of Sidney Street Café, Mina Nashan oversees the front of the house while Kevin makes magic in the back. Local foodies are well aware of the quality of their professional pursuits, but what about when they’re off the clock and relaxing with their son, Max? Feast sat down with Kevin at his home, surrounded by his extensive cookbook collection. When the Nashans moved into their DeMun home, the first thing they did was have a custom-made bookcase installed. Kevin’s passion for cookbooks runs so deep that once, many years ago, when Mina was out of town, he spent all of their rent money at the local bookstore … and he’s turned his paycheck over to Mina ever since.
WRITTEN BY Catherine Neville
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Inspired Food Culture
Saint Louis
29
Oohs and Ahhs are just a phone call away.
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AUGUST 2010
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BASKETS written by Pat Eby
World Market herb grill grid Master Forge Non-Stick grilling Basket Pros
this less substantial, slightly smaller basket adjusts to three settings. At just 2.35 pounds, with smaller-gauge wire and more open construction, the full basket is easy to lift. Cons
Fish fillets worked great, but when i roasted chunks of peppers, onions and mushrooms, the pieces wanted to slip out the corners and immolate themselves. the square-edged wooden handle grip was a little wide for my hand, and the clamp closing the basket was balky.
Pros
the herb grill grid rolls a little differently. two flat screens, hinged, open to hold fresh herbs. Food cooks on top of the screen, as opposed to inside the basket. i used indirect heat and closed the grill to best flavor the food. Cons
the basket holds only herbs, leaves or grill papers, restricting your flavoring options. the handles are a little skimpy. i had to pull the screen to the edge of the grill with tongs and then used thin silicone pot holders to lift it. $14.99; World Market, multiple locations, worldmarket.com
$7.99; Lowe’s, multiple locations, lowes.com
deals Nonstick rib/Vegetable Basket Pros
Marked for ribs and vegetables, but it grills fish fillets under three-quarters of an inch just fine. throw this grill basket in the car next time you fish or camp. it’s not a high-quality item, but if you want to try a grill basket and don’t want to invest the bucks, this is the one for you. Cons
the metal’s flimsy, and an insubstantial O-ring holds the two halves. the nonstick finish is none too easy to clean.
Bed Bath and Beyond Non-Stick oil rubbed Bronze Barbecue kabob Basket Pros
the shrimp won’t twist, the peaches won’t slip and the berries won’t budge in these tiny baskets. the soft grip is a plus too. you get four baskets. One for surf, one for turf, one for veggies and the last for fruit. Full-sized grill baskets at bed bath and beyond feature the same soft grip and quality make as the kabob style. Cons
there are no cons, only one caveat. the handles are shorter, so make sure the grip isn’t over the hot coals. $9.99; Bed Bath and Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com
$3; Deals, multiple locations, deals-stores.com
kitchenaid Nonstick grill Basket Pros
Holds up to six medium fillets easily. Four depth settings, from five-eighths of an inch to nearly 2 inches deep, allow the basket to hold both thicker and thinner foods. even when the basket heats up, the clamp action stays smooth. Cleaning is easy with the nonstick coating. the design is sleek, with closed corners to keep small pieces in, and a frame around the top of the basket adds stability. Cons
the weight – at 2 pounds, 12 ounces when empty. $19.99; Target, multiple locations, target.com
Chec
k out
56!
W hat to L oo k For : Size: Grill baskets can take up some serious space. Match the available grill surface to the basket size. grips and Balance: Flipping a long-handled basket full of food over glowing coals requires a comfortable grip that fits the hand. Heft and turn the basket in the store to find the best grip and balance.
design: these hinged baskets snug food in, allowing the cook to flip in one fluid movement on a hot grill. Adjustable baskets make grilling thick steaks or delicate fillets easy. Nonstick Coatings: Look for baskets with a nonstick finish for quick food release and faster cleanup. Most recipes still advise brushing the basket and the fish with oil before grilling, even with a nonstick surface.
page
put your grill basket to use with our quick and easy grilled fish recipes Inspired Food Culture
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ON THE SHELF
BEER WRITTEN BY Michael Sweeney
When not using his spare time to make fun of people who write blogs, Michael Sweeney writes the beer blog STLHops.com. The irony is lost on him.
Bières de Chimay – Chimay Triple
Big Sky Brewing Co. – Montana Trout Slayer Ale
Boulevard Brewing Co. – Amber Ale
STYLE: Tripel (8 percent abv)
STYLE: American Wheat Ale (4.7 percent abv)
STYLE: Amber American Ale (5.1 percent abv)
AVAILABLE AT: Randall’s Wines and Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $10.99 (750-ml bottle)
AVAILABLE AT: The Wine and Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $8.99 (six-pack cans or bottles)
AVAILABLE AT: Friar Tuck, multiple locations, friartuckonline.com; $13.99 (currently available only in 12-pack samplers)
When you’ve been brewing beer for almost 150 years, you’re probably doing something right. The monks at Scourmont Abbey in Belgium brewed this beer to be very dry and crisp. The slight funkiness provided by the Belgian yeast strain completely envelops your olfactory system, leaving you wanting more. Just be careful: At 8 percent abv, this beer packs a punch.
As they are easy-drinking and refreshing, it’s so easy to see why American wheat beers have proved to be popular in the U.S. Trout Slayer is completely unpretentious. The aroma has a lot of wheat character, including a hint of citrus. The beer is clean, and the carbonation is spritzy. Drinking this beer is the perfect way to beat the August heat.
Amber beers tend to be maltier beers, and Boulevard’s newest release is no exception. The first whiff of the beer reveals a big caramel malt aroma with some subtle spicy, hoppy tones. The malt carries through to the flavor, but the beer never gets too sweet; it remains extremely drinkable.
PAIRINGS: Mussels / Cassoulet / Stilton cheese
PAIRINGS: Salad (especially with citrus dressing / Orange roughy or tilapia / Goat cheese omelets
PAIRINGS: Blue cheese / Grilled beef or pork / Mushrooms
WHAT’S ON THE SHELF AUGUST WINE WRITTEN BY Angela Ortmann
STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann gained a passion for all things epicurean by working in the luxury restaurants and hotels of St. Louis and San Francisco. Through her event and consultation business, she is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.
2009 Point Concepción Celestina Pinot Grigio
2008 Vin Ver’ray Syrah
NV Castella Cava Brut
PROVENANCE: Napa Valley, Calif.
PROVENANCE: Spain
PROVENANCE: Santa Barbara County, Calif.
AVAILABLE AT: Grapevine Wines, 309 S. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, grapevinewinesstl.com; $18.49
AVAILABLE AT: Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine, 1722 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield, veritasgateway.com; $11.99
This single-vineyard wine lives up to its name, Vin Ver’ray, meaning “true to the source,” with its dark fruit and spiciness. The fragrant blackberry, plum and pepper characteristics are a nice complement to any barbecue. It is a rich, firm and earthy wine that showcases what a Californian Syrah can be.
Bubbles are a fitting choice any time, any day, any occasion. This refreshing sparkler showcases the unmistakable qualities that we love about cava – it can be both delectable and reasonably priced. It is crisp with prominent aromas of green apple.
AVAILABLE AT: The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com; $16.99
Pink pinot grigio? A rare find indeed. Though not a traditional rosé, this copper-hued rendition breathes new life into a common wine. It smells like summer in a glass with aromas of strawberry and nectarine. Its crisp, refreshing and fuller mouthfeel makes it a perfect outdoor sipping wine.
JOIN ANGELA ORTMANN AND FEAST PUBLISHER CATHERINE NEVILLE FOR A HAPPY HOUR WINE TASTING ON TUE.,AUG. 19,AT 6PM AT 1111 MISSISSIPPI! 32
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AUGUST 2010
FOOD PAIRINGS: Effortless – Mild cheeses such as fontina / Dine Out & Delivery – Antipasto or charcuterie platter / Special Occasion – Bacon-wrapped scallops
FOOD PAIRINGS: Effortless –Sharp Cheddar / Dine Out & Delivery – Mushroom pizza / Special Occasion – Grilled rib eye steak
FOOD PAIRINGS: Effortless – Eggs / Dine Out & Delivery – Fried appetizers / Special Occasion – Sushi
SPIRITS WRITTEN BY Chad Michael George
GET CHAD’S RECIPES Chad Michael George is an award-winning sommelier ON THE WEB and mixologist, born and raised in St. Louis. He is the founder of the Proof Academy, which covers FEASTSTL.COM all things wine-and-spirits related, from wine and cocktail list consulting to detailed spirits and mixology education for the hospitality industry and the general public.
Death’s Door Gin (47.3 percent abv) PROVENANCE: Washington Island, Wis. AVAILABLE AT: Wine Chateau, 90 Clarkson Wilson Center, Chesterfield, 636.532.6069; $32
Distilled from organic hard red winter wheat with juniper, coriander and fennel, this award-winning gin is the perfect base for any gin cocktail. The finish is bright and vibrant, with no bitterness, and the juniper balance is just right. Try it in classics such as the Negroni or Pegu Club cocktail or in your favorite martini.
Thatcher’s Organic Artisan Liqueurs – Blood Orange Liqueur (15 percent abv) PROVENANCE: Temperance, Mich. AVAILABLE AT: Lukas Liquor, 15921 Manchester, Ellisville, lukasliquor.com; $20
Made from sustainably farmed, certified organic ingredients, the entire Thatcher’s line has something to offer your taste buds. Organic blood oranges from Sicily contribute to the intensely red color of this liqueur, but the taste is purely orange with a hint of raspberry and cherry on the palate. Try it as a margarita addition or simply on the rocks over club soda.
North Shore Distillery – Aquavit Private Reserve (45 percent abv)
PROVENANCE: Lake Bluff, Ill. AVAILABLE AT: Provisions Gourmet Market, 11615 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, provisionsmarket.com; $28
This tasty spirit, which originated in Scandinavia, is rarely produced in America. Caraway, cumin and coriander are the main botanicals used in the distillation of this bottling. North Shore then ages its aquavit in new American oak, adding subtle notes of vanilla and toast. Think of peppercorns and lemongrass, with a good dose of spice. Try it neat or on the rocks or as a vodka replacement in a Bloody Mary. Inspired Food Culture
Saint Louis
33
MYSTERY SHOPPER
Tuna Tartare BY KEVIN WILLMANN, FARMHAUS RESTAURANT
Serves | 1 | 3 oz bigeye or other very fresh tuna, diced 1 tsp black garlic, minced 1 to 2 tsp hemp seed oil sea salt to taste 1 oz raw hearts of palm, sliced into rounds pea shoots (optional) quail egg yolk (optional) lavash crackers
| Preparation | Mix tuna, garlic and oil. Season to taste with sea salt. Add hearts of palm and mix gently. Top with pea shoots and quail egg yolk, if desired. Serve with a lavash cracker.
When garlic turns black in the refrigerator, it’s a problem. But when these little spice bullets are fermented, they turn into a whole other world of flavor, texture and possibilities. In the kitchen, chefs and home cooks are playing
WRITTEN BY Shera Dalin
WHAT IS IT?
HOW DO I USE IT?
Black garlic is made by heating and fermenting raw garlic to produce ebony cloves that are tamer and sweeter, with licorice and fennel undertones. The sugar and amino acids in the garlic produce melanoidin, which gives black garlic its dark color. It also amps up the antioxidant levels, turning a great food into a superfood.
Black garlic doesn’t pack the wallop of raw garlic, so forget about making it the star of pasta or shrimp scampi. Instead, use its sweet, mellow tone to bring out the more dominant flavor of a central ingredient. Peel it just as you would regular garlic (the papery skin removes quite easily). It has the texture of a Gummi Bear, so putting a little oil on your knife can help with slicing. Its flavor mellows a bit more with cooking, making it a nice complement to chicken and seafood dishes or a nice paste over roasted meats. Its lovely sweetness is stunning when it is mashed and mixed into your regular hummus recipe. Maybe even try it with a dessert such as coconut custard, cardamom bread or carrot cake. Just mash and incorporate into your wet ingredients. Then let the dulcet notes flow.
WHERE CAN I GET IT?
Chefs have been experimenting with black garlic, so look for it on menus around St. Louis. It is also available at local grocery stores as well as from Black Garlic Inc. of Hayward, Calif., at blackgarlic.com. It comes in whole bulbs, in peeled cloves or as a purée (two bulbs, about $4.99; 5.5 ounces peeled, $10.99).
with this darker, sweeter but still-garlic ingredient. 34
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CHECK IT OUT!
FEAST EXTRA
STOP BY STRAUB’S TO PICK UP MORE EXCLUSIVE RECIPES FEATURING BLACK GARLIC. VISIT STRAUBS.COM FOR INFORMATION ON THEIR FOUR LOCATIONS.
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY Black Garlic Inc.
MEET : BLACK GARLIC
EVERY CURVE SEDUCES.
Suntrup Buick • GMC
4200 N. Service Rd. • I-70 and Cave Springs • 877.262.8426 • www.suntrupbpg.com Inspired Food Culture
Saint Louis
35
THE CHEAT
PÂTÉ! STORY AND RECIPE BY Cassandra Vires
Most people think making pâté at home takes hours of time, specialty equipment and superlative culinary knowledge. However, you can do it in your own kitchen with the equipment you already have and with ingredients you can find at any grocery store. There are a wide variety of pâtés, ranging from the rustic pâté de campagne to the incredibly difficult pâté en croûte. The recipe I’m giving you here is for pâté de campagne, or country pâté, which is traditionally made with a variety of pork, beef and chicken livers. But instead of using various cuts and varieties of meat, instead of using a meat grinder and then a special drum sieve and all the other chaos that goes into classic pâté, I give you the cheat: ground pork! You heard me right. Regular, straightfrom-the-butcher’s-counter ground pork. By eliminating the flour found in traditional recipes and increasing the amount of heavy cream, you can achieve the creamy texture of traditional pâtés.
The fact that you can cheat on the ingredients, however, doesn’t mean you can cheat on
Watch our step-by-step online video FEASTST L.CO M
everything else. Some basic rules of charcuterie making still must be followed. Temperature is one of the most important elements in making a pâté. You must keep everything cold – the ingredients, the bowls and the spoons. If the ingredients or instruments get too warm, the fat in the meat will separate and won’t properly emulsify. Seasoning is just as important. Because pâtés are served cold, the seasoning must be that much more aggressive. In order to make sure you have achieved the ideal flavor, do a test before baking the entire pâté. Just take a small spoonful of the mixture, wrap in plastic wrap and poach in water. This will most closely resemble how the finished product will taste. The last and most important rule I want to impress on you involves creativity. The interior garnish is where you can make your pâté unique. The interior garnish is not puréed or processed and generally runs through the center of the pâté. The common choices are ham, pistachios and herbs, but be creative and choose garnishes that not only taste good but also make for a stunning presentation. Cassandra Vires is the executive chef and manager of Ernesto’s Winebar in Benton Park. She received her culinary training in Houston, Texas, and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.
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Country Pâté
is one of the simplest and most humble of all pâtés. It originated with peasants, who used various scraps of meat to produce something hearty yet affordable.
Serves | 8 to 10 | ³⁄� cup 3 Tbsp 1 cup 2¹⁄� lbs ³⁄� lb 3 cloves 2¹⁄� tsp 2¹⁄� tsp 1¹⁄� tsp 1 tsp 2 ¹⁄� cup 14 slices
cognac unsalted butter minced onion ground pork bacon, finely chopped garlic, minced salt dried thyme allspice freshly ground black pepper large eggs heavy cream bacon, for lining pan grain mustard and cornichons for garnish
| Preparation | Set rack at lowest position in oven and preheat to 350°F. Boil cognac until reduced to ½ cup, about 1½ minutes. Cool. Melt butter in heavy medium skillet over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until soft and translucent but not brown, about 8 minutes. Combine reduced cognac, sautéed onion, ground pork, chopped bacon, garlic, salt, thyme, allspice, pepper, eggs and cream.
| 1 | With a wooden spoon, mix together until well-blended. | 2 | Line a metal loaf pan with bacon, arranging across width and length of pan, making sure to overlap. Lightly and evenly press
meat mixture onto bottom of pan atop bacon slices. Fold bacon slices over, covering pâté. Cover pan tightly with foil. Bake pâté in a water bath until a thermometer inserted through foil into center registers 155°F, about 2 hours, 15 minutes. Remove loaf pan from baking pan and transfer to rimmed baking sheet. Place heavy skillet or other heavy object on top of pâté to weigh down. Chill overnight.
| To Serve | Invert pâté onto a platter. Using a paper towel, wipe away the excess fat from pâté and platter. | 3 | Slice the pâté into ½-inch slices and serve with mustard and cornichons.
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|3| Inspired Food Culture
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DECONSTRUCTED DISHES
BON BON CHICKEN
STORY AND RECIPE BY Gabrielle DeMichele
This recipe has roots in the Japanese banbanji dish, which is a cold chicken and cucumber salad. Variations on the original include the addition of tomatoes, leeks or even boiled cabbage. Feel free to play with this main-dish version in a similar way. It is the perfect summer entrée: It’s easily assembled, creates little heat in the kitchen and can be served cold or at room temperature.
Bean Thread Noodles Bean thread noodles, also called cellophane or glass noodles and Chinese vermicelli, are made from ground mung beans, instead of wheat, and are a wise choice for those who have gluten intolerance. Also, because bean thread noodles themselves are flavorless, they take on the flavors of other ingredients, particularly broths and sauces. You can substitute rice noodles or vermicelli pasta or even penne rigate.
Gabrielle DeMichele has owned a catering company, taught cooking classes and developed professional culinary schools. She is currently the manager of Schnucks Cooks Cooking School.
Bon Bon Chicken | Preparation | To poach the
Serves | 6 to 8 | CHICKEN
4 4 oz 2
Chile-Garlic Sauce
boneless, skinless chicken breasts bean threads cucumbers, seeded
SEASONING SAUCE
¹⁄� cup
peanut, safflower or corn oil ¹⁄� cup peanut butter or sesame paste 4 Tbsp sugar 6 Tbsp soy sauce 6 Tbsp rice vinegar 2 Tbsp sesame oil 2 Tbsp chile oil 4 cloves garlic, minced 6 to 8 green onions, minced 3 tsp chile-garlic sauce
chicken, cover with cold water in a large pot. Bring water to a boil, turn off heat, cover pot with lid and allow chicken to steep until water is cool enough to handle. Remove chicken and tear into large shreds. Pour extremely hot, but not boiling, water over bean threads and soak for 10 minutes or until noodles are soft. Drain and cut into 3-inch lengths. Peel cucumbers and cut in half lengthwise. Cut cucumbers on a diagonal into thin strips.
Thoroughly combine the seasoning sauce ingredients in a small bowl.
Chile paste is widely used in Chinese cooking and is made of fermented fava beans, flour, red chiles and sometimes garlic, as needed in this recipe. Varieties of chile paste include Szechuan chile paste (Chinese), tuong ot toi (Vietnamese), sambal oelek (Southeast Asian) and nam prik (Thai). They vary in degrees of heat and flavor and will influence your dish accordingly.
Cover bottom of a serving platter with the cucumber strips. Place the bean threads on top, allowing the edges of the cucumber to show. Mound chicken shreds in the center. Just before serving, restir the seasoning sauce and pour on top of chicken. The ingredients will separate if you pour on the sauce too early. Garnish as you like (shown here with tomato, scallions and nasturtiums).
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Soy Sauce Soy sauce is an important ingredient in Asian cooking and is made from fermented soybeans and roasted wheat or barley. Choices range from thick to thin and light to dark, with lighter, thinner soy sauce being much saltier than darker, thicker versions. Japanese tamari is similar to soy sauce, and it is thick, rich and extremely dark. Soy sauce is the “salt” of Asian cuisine, which is why there is no traditional salt added to this dish.
Sesame Paste Sesame paste is made of roasted unhulled sesame seeds and is a good substitute for peanut butter here. But beware: It is not tahini, which is made from roasted hulled sesame seeds and yields a different taste experience. Sesame paste is found in most Asian markets.
Cucumbers Cucumbers, part of the squash family, are often found in Indian and other Asian dishes to balance the heat from peppers and curry. Why? Their high water content keeps them cool. PHOTOGRAPHY BY Geoff Cardin
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Saint Louis
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BURGERS ARE MADE TO ORDER AND
AS THE RESTAURANT’S SLOGAN STATES
he quaint brick structure on Chambers Road has had few modifications over the years, aside from the removal of a walk-in freezer and window awnings, and the presence of Debbie and Ed Mueller, who bought the business from Rich Robson, the original owner, in 2003. The kitchen is not much larger than a respectable walk-in closet: Aaron Jones jots orders – mostly for hamburgers – on scrap paper, practically rubbing shoulders with Rich, who still mans the steel griddle. Paces away, Debbie takes cash, bags food and hands out orders with no-nonsense urgency. Made to order – and “worth the weight,” as the restaurant’s slogan states – the imposing beef bundles take up to 15
minutes to cook through. The resultant crumbly meat mass has a salty-crusty exterior with an explosion of juices awaiting escape with the first bite. Dill slices, a light sprinkling of chopped white onion and squirts of ketchup and mustard come standard, and for just 15 or 30 cents more, customers can add American cheese to a single or double burger, respectively. Frequent diners know to request a dollop of the Barn’s signature garlic mayo, a tangy addition that mingles symbiotically with the cheese. The burgers are packaged matter-offactly in bulging brown bags lightly stained with warm grease. Most devotees hunker down happily to a single patty, but a brave few tackle the double. Served
on a three-piece white bun that includes a stabilizing bread buffer between the patties, the 1-pound burger challenges the jaw and stomach capacities of most mere mortals. The triple? Fuggetaboutit! Few attempt it and fewer succeed. At 75, Robson, an Army veteran, has been serving hot food, cold drinks and warm smiles in the St. Louis area since he first fired up his lunch truck in 1956. In those days he sold mainly to employees of General Motors, Carter Carburetor and about eight other area businesses in a harried lunchtime selling spree. Robson could fit only 20 burgers on the gas grill mounted in the back of his box truck, but if he timed his cooking and his stops wisely, no one went hungry. Inspired Food Culture
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good! We wouldn’t do that anywhere else. … We came here for lunch one day, and they were already running out [of beef].” With a long-standing reputation for using local vendors, the White Barn was locavore long before it was a trend. Bill’s Riverview Market & Meats on Bellefontaine Road grinds and provides fresh beef daily. Piekutowski’s European Style Sausage on North Florissant supplies hot links and Polish sausage; Vess furnishes soft drinks; and Tocco Foods Co. on East Prairie provides some meats, condiments and sundry other food items.
“I’d just ride along with the [back] doors open; I don’t know if I was supposed to do that,” he says. “When I came to a stoplight, I would run around and flip the burgers.” Robson kept up the mobile diner until 1988, several years after he opened the White Barn in a former Velvet Freeze building in 1981. “I’ve enjoyed every minute of it,” Robson says. “I love the people, and I love to work – and I like to flirt with the ladies.”
White Barn Was
The customers, like the White Barn building, have changed little. Robson still gets visits from those die-hard original clients from the GM/Carter era. They come to the window asking for “Dick the Diner,” his nickname back then, but Robson has other ways to identify them. “The GM guys come up and yell really loud because they’re deaf from working in the plant,” he says. Debbie warmly greets a young woman as she considers her order. “How you doing, Shay?” Employees know many customers by name, and Robson estimates he shakes hands with 20 or more every day, even on his part-time schedule.
long Before it Was a trend
For Kim and Mike Zorich of Spanish Lake, dinner at the Barn has been a tradition for the last 25 years or so, even before their marriage and kids came along. Kim now treks to the diner twice a week or more with Mike and their children, Katie and Kyle, in tow. On this sunny evening in early May, though, they’re tailgating on the lot of the new Florissant store, which debuted April 9, 2010. Kim digs into a burger slathered with garlic mayo; beside her, Katie enjoys catfish and fries. “Opening day, we waited in line for an hour,” Kim says. “It’s that
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Rich says he briefly switched to another meat supplier after a dispute with Riverview over prices and immediately regretted the decision. “It was not the same. If [the Muellers] ever get rid of Riverview for their meat, it’s over because it’s fresh. It makes all the difference.” Robson shapes the 10-pound bags of beef into 20 uniform balls and pats them into thick patties as needed. After slapping around raw meat for roughly a half-century, he knows 8 ounces of ground beef by feel. “If I ever catch on fire, I’ll burn for a week I’ve got so much grease in me.” They’ve GoT a New Grill Now
If the Moline Acres Barn is the sugar cube on an anthill, the Florissant location could be described as the mother of all picnics. The new store has turned the Muellers’ schedules topsy-turvy. “It took off like a rocket ship without anything but opening the doors,” says Ed, who leads the crew at the new restaurant, along with general manager Brandon Wildman. “People have gone to one location and saw a line and drove [about 10 miles] to the other place. That’s loyalty.” Early on a Tuesday evening, there is scarcely time to scratch an itch as the walk-up traffic bottlenecks and the drive-thru line grows longer. A dozen or so cars snake around the structure under the waning sun. Just past 7 o’clock, the crew has already run out of hot dogs. Cook Joseph Wallace turns his attention to an order of cheese fries, using a Barn trick to accelerate the melting process. After a quick dunk in hot oil, a glistening slice of American drapes languidly over the golden potatoes. But clearly, beef is king at the Barn. While Debbie and Rich
“I’VE ENJOYED EVERY MINUTE OF IT,” ROBSON SAYS. “I LOVE THE PEOPLE, AND I LOVE TO WORK – AND I LIKE TO FLIRT WITH THE LADIES.”
serve 90 pounds of it daily in Moline Acres, the Florissant customers are devouring about 300 pounds, and Ed says that amount might be even higher after hours are extended to 2am for the summer. When they’re not gorging on ground beef, faithful Barnies are chowing down on the two runnersup: fried catfish and – in a shocking victory over American faves chicken strips and brats – liver and onions. Kim Zorich never doubted that the essence of the White Barn would “translate” to Florissant. “I was confident it would be just as good.” VISIT WHITE BARN
2457 CHAMBERS ROAD MON. - SAT.
11 AM - 8 PM
2182 N. LINDBERGH BLVD. MON. - SAT.
11 AM - 2 AM
That includes superior service. Kim recalls a time when she got to the window only to discover she’d left her money at home – a cardinal sin in a cash-only enterprise. Ed took her order and her word that she’d pay later. “He cares about his customers. Who else would do that?” Ed said his and Debbie’s vision is to keep the atmosphere warm and welcoming. “She wanted it to be like Thanksgiving with family all the time.” However, the Muellers credit Robson for the White Barn’s personality, even at the new location. “Rich is one of the
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most generous, sweetest, nicest people you’ll ever meet,” Debbie says, adding: “If he passes, we’re going to tell people he’s on vacation for a while – so they keep coming.” Full and happy, Kim peeks through the drive-up window to say goodbye to her favorite cook, Ed, who smiles and shouts a hearty greeting. “It’s the White Barn family,” he says. “It is kind of like Thanksgiving.” Although the Muellers have replicated much of the original Barn’s appeal at the new digs, Robson good-naturedly claims superiority at the grill. “Not to brag, but I can out-fry them all.” So what’s the real appeal? Is it the fat, half-pound slabs of salty-savory meat or the crispy catfish? Is it the finger-sized fries with just the right crunch or that heavenly smell of piping-hot beef that draws people the way catnip attracts kitties? Perhaps none of these. The retro building and even more old-fashioned customer service recall an era many St. Louisans desperately miss. A taste of nostalgia is quite a powerful ingredient.
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| OPENING PAGE | from top: silver hors d’oeuvres pick, $6.95 for set of six; Essential white dinnerware, $2.95-$4.95; Whim plates shown in green, yellow and teal, $2.95 each; Rectangular platter, $11.95. All from Crate & Barrel, The Boulevard St. Louis, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com | THIS PAGE | left to right: Two for Two sake carafe from Marla Dawn, $50 (for set, including two matching cups); UMA, 1100 Locust, Downtown, iloveuma.com. Oil and vinegar carafe from Bodum, $45; Winslow’s Home, 7213 Delmar Blvd., University City, winslowshome.com. Orange Picnic plate, $5.95; Crate & Barrel, The Boulevard St. Louis, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com. Stainless steel salt shaker, $20 (for salt and pepper 52
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AUGUST 2010
set); Winslow’s Home. Square salad plate, $3.99; Target, multiple locations, target.com. Square dinner plate, $4.99; Target. Crème Brulee square, $3.50; Winslow’s Home. Fiesta dinner plate in Turquoise, $7.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, kitchencopia.com. Wreath dessert plate, $5; Winslow’s Home. French Bistro plate, $9.50; Winslow’s Home. LeCreuset large serving dish in kiwi, $34.95; Cornucopia. Riedel martini glass, $39.99 (for set of four); Target. Champagne flute, $5.95; Cornucopia. Stainless steel serving tray, $14.99; Target. Quiche rectangle, $10; Winslow’s Home. Porcelain salt cellar with serving spoon, $7; Winslow’s Home. Black cutting board (shown as street), $9.54; Target Inspired Food Culture
Saint Louis
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Tilt bowl, $14.95; Crate & Barrel, The Boulevard St. Louis, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com. Spun Grass place mat from Chilewich, $12; Phoenix Rising, 6331 Delmar Blvd., The Loop, shopphoenixrising.com 54
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Please join us at...
PREVIEW NIGHT ...to learn more about what University College has to offer. Talk to faculty, staff, advisors and current students. AUGUST 12th, 2010 7:00 PM IN HOLMES LOUNGE
Doors open at 6:00pm Refreshments will be served.
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MANCHESTER ............... Manchester Rd. E/141 across from Starbucks ... 636-391-8600 SUNSET HILLS .............. Lindbergh & Watson near Home Depot .............. 314-821-5066 LADUE.......................... Ladue Rd. & 1-170 next to Maggie Moos ........... 314-726-5505 ST. PETERS................... 94 & Mid Rivers Mall Dr./94 Crossing ................ 636-928-9474 CHESTERFIELD VALLEY ..... Chesterfield Commons Near Lowe's .................. 636-519-8400 FENTON........................ Gravois Bluffs/behind Walgreens ...................... 636-326-9972 SWANSEA..................... Rte.159/1 Blk. S. of Outback Steak House ......... 618-235-1969 Inspired Food Culture
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55
FLAMING
| WRITTEN BY | Erik Jacobs | PHOTOGRAPHY BY | Jennifer Silverberg
It’s the 10th consecutive day above 95 degrees.
You are worn down, turned out and soaked through and have absolutely no desire to disrupt the harmony of your perfectly air-conditioned kitchen with a blazing-hot oven. Instead, fire up the patio barbecue, grill some amazing seafood and pair it with a raw salsa, slaw or relish that requires no cooking. It’s the ultimate summer compromise – a satisfying dinner packed with nutrition and flavor, plus no indoor cooking and precious little cleanup. Grilling seafood is easy, despite your fears to the contrary.
Ultimately, your success boils down to choosing an appropriate species to grill, making sure you prepare your equipment well and for Pete’s sake not overcooking it. GILLS TO THE GRILL
Ever try to throw a flounder fillet on the Weber? How’d that work out for you? On the grill you will have the most success cooking seafood that is fairly meaty. Choose salmon, swordfish, mahi mahi or halibut – all great varieties with the muscle structure to stand up to the intense heat and handling of live-fire cooking. In addition, fresh diver sea scallops, shrimp, oysters, clams and lobster are all insanely good when cooked over a live fire.
ARTICLES OF COMBUSTION
Gas or charcoal? Your choice. Gas grills provide a more manageable cooking environment, but hardwood lump charcoal offers more flavor. With either method, it is critical that you begin with clean grill grates. Buy a grill brush and use it! Cooking your $22-per-pound sashimi-grade tuna on top of last week’s barbecued chicken will end badly for you and the fish. Next, put a light coating of oil on the fillet itself before seasoning, and also lightly oil the hot grates just before you put the fish on. A long pair of tongs and some paper towels dipped in oil will do the trick. Notice that I recommend a “light” coating. Soaking the grates with oil may cause unwanted flare-ups. KNOW WHEN TO SAY WHEN
Full disclosure: Cooking (especially seafood) is a craft. You have to learn through experience. In this capacity, chefs depend mostly on their sense of touch rather than on rigid timelines and temperatures – and the same should go for you. That being said, a few tips can help guide you along the way. Make sure to pat your seafood dry before you oil and cook it. → Grill your seafood over medium-high heat (wait five to eight minutes after the fire seems hottest); don’t steam it on the grill. → In judging when to flip, look for the color changes that occur at the edges of the fish. With salmon and tuna especially, this can be a wonderful gauge. An instant-read thermometer can help confirm your culinary intuition. Generally speaking, a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the fillet should read at least 125°F for mediumcooked fish and 140°F for completely cooked-through fish. →
Last, if you’ve purchased really fresh seafood from a reputable source, worry less about undercooking than overcooking. Most seafood is quite lean. Overcooking will cause it to become dry and tough. If in doubt, take it off! You can always put it back on if it is still underdone, but once it’s sawdust, sawdust it remains. →
IN THE RAW
There is no better accompaniment to grilled fish than a raw salsa or relish. When making salsas and relishes at home, strive to balance some key aspects: sweetness, acidity, salinity, texture and color. Summer fruits provide an excellent starting point, as they often combine two of the dominant flavor aspects you seek in a balanced salsa or relish. A good balance of acidity (citrus juices, vinegars, wines) and natural sweetness (honey, palm sugar, agave nectar) heightens the taste of the main ingredients. If either of these is dominant, you can lose flavor elements you are trying to retain. Add a fresh herb (cilantro, basil, marjoram, chives) or spice (cumin, coriander, curry, smoked paprika) with chiles (jalapeño, serrano, habanero) and seeds (sesame, celery, cardamom), and you will be amazed by the taste contrasts you can achieve. Texture and color play dominant roles in building a great relish as well. Crunchy vegetables such as corn, jicama, bell peppers, snow peas and cucumbers provide an al dente counterpoint to soft-textured seafood. One of the advantages of raw relishes is that the colors are still vibrant and rich, so mix and match with abandon. Finally, a word about salt. Very little is needed in a fresh salsa or relish because the other flavors are so dominant. A pinch or two goes a long way.
Erik Jacobs has been known to weep over perfectly executed duck confit. As the chef/owner of Wanderlust, he can be seen meandering around St. Louis in a shiny aluminum trailer where he serves darn good vittles.
S U ST A I N A B L E S E A F O O D Given the huge variety of seafood available in the marketplace today, there are often more choices than we know what to do with. Being a savvy and sustainable seafood consumer, you already know that the search begins at the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s website (montereybayaquarium.org), which provides an extensive list of sustainable species for your enjoyment. Check out the handy smart phone app while you’re there.
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AS SEEN IN
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The raw and the cooked These salsas, slaws and relishes are intended to accompany simply grilled seafood. Of course, they can also be used over chicken, pork, etc.
Grilled Swordfish with Thai Chile and Grapefruit Relish
Grilled Alaskan Salmon with MangoCucumber Relish
Serves | 4 |
Serves | 4 |
FISH
FISH
4
6-oz steaks domestic wild-caught swordfish oil for coating salt and pepper for seasoning
4
1 Tbsp
RELISH
2 1 ½ tsp 1 Tbsp
Ruby Red grapefruits, peeled and segmented Thai red chile, minced fine (more or less depending on tolerance) honey (try a darker honey, such as chestnut or buckwheat) chopped fresh mint zest of ½ lime
| Preparation | Bring the swordfish fillets to room temperature. Lightly coat with oil. Season with salt and pepper. When fire is medium-hot, place swordfish on well-cleaned and lightly oiled grill grate. Depending on thickness of fillet and heat of fire, grill for 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Allow to rest for 5 minutes (covered) before serving.
JOIN CHEF-INSTRUCTOR MATT BORCHARDT AND FEAST PUBLISHER CATHERINE NEVILLE FOR A FISH-CENTRIC COOKING CLASS ON FRI.,AUG. 13 AT 6PM. CALL 314.587.2433 TO RESERVE YOUR SPACE TODAY!
Slice the ends from the grapefruits and remove rind and pith. With a sharp paring knife cut the fruit from the membrane, avoiding seeds. Place in a small bowl and add minced chile, honey, chopped mint and lime zest. Toss well and serve as a bed for the swordfish.
6-oz fillets wild-caught Alaskan salmon (or U.S. tank-farmed), skin off oil for coating Madras curry powder salt and pepper for seasoning
RELISH
1 cup 1 cup 1 Tbsp 1 tsp 1 tsp
seeded, diced cucumber diced mango finely minced shallot toasted sesame oil black sesame seeds salt and pepper to taste
| Preparation | Combine relish ingredients in a mixing bowl and allow flavors to blend for at least 30 minutes. Bring salmon fillets to room temperature. Lightly coat with oil. Season on both sides with curry powder, salt and pepper. When fire is medium-hot, place salmon on well-cleaned and lightly oiled grill grate. Depending on thickness of fillet and heat of fire, grill for 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Allow to rest for 5 minutes (covered) before serving. Spoon relish over fish and serve.
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Grilled Pacific Halibut with Pineapple-Avocado Salsa
Grilled Diver Scallops on Gingery Peach-and-Plum Salsa
Grilled Mahi Mahi with Spicy Jicama Slaw
Add the avocado to this salsa right before serving. This prevents the pineapple’s acidity from breaking down the delicate avocado.
Choose dry pack scallops. They aren’t kept in that milky white liquid that can give scallops a bitter, off flavor.
Serves | 4 |
Serves | 4 |
1½ lbs 4
6-oz fillets (or steaks) Pacific halibut oil for coating salt and pepper for seasoning marjoram sprig for garnish (optional)
1 1 ¾ tsp 1 tsp
fresh pineapple, diced into ½-inch cubes lemon, juiced ground coriander minced fresh marjoram avocado, diced into ½-inch cubes
| Preparation | Combine all salsa ingredients except for the avocado in a mixing bowl and set aside.
1 tsp
dry pack diver scallops oil for coating salt and pepper for seasoning chives, parsley or thyme for garnish (optional)
SALSA
SALSA
1 cup 1 1 tsp 1 Tbsp 1
4
SCALLOPS
FISH
FISH
Serves | 4 |
ripe peach, finely diced ripe plum, finely diced freshly grated ginger chopped fresh thyme juice of ½ orange zest of ½ orange salt and pepper to taste
| Preparation | Place all salsa ingredients in a medium mixing bowl at least 30 minutes before grilling scallops.
Bring the halibut to room temperature. Lightly coat with oil. Season with salt and pepper. When fire is mediumhot, place halibut on well-cleaned and lightly oiled grill grate. Depending on thickness of fillet and heat of fire, grill for 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Allow to rest for 5 minutes (covered) before serving.
Bring scallops to room temperature. Lightly oil and season scallops. Lightly oil a medium-hot, very clean grill. Place scallops on hottest part and grill no more than 2 minutes per side (1 minute for medium-rare). Remove from grill and keep covered and warm.
Add the avocado to the pineapple mix. Spoon salsa over fish and garnish with a fresh sprig of marjoram.
Place a tablespoon of salsa on a plate and top with grilled scallops. Garnish with crossed chives, finely minced parsley or thyme sprigs.
6-oz mahi mahi fillets oil for coating ground cumin salt and pepper for seasoning
SLAW
2 ½ tsp ½ tsp ¼ cup 3 ½ cup ½ 1 1
limes, juiced zest of 1 lime honey ground chipotle extra virgin olive oil green onions, chopped chopped cilantro medium jicama, julienned red bell pepper, julienned cucumber, seeded and julienned
| Preparation | In a small bowl whisk lime juice, zest, honey and chipotle powder. Slowly add olive oil in a thin, steady stream until fully incorporated. Add green onions and cilantro. Combine jicama, peppers and cucumber and toss with vinaigrette. Bring fillets to room temperature. Lightly coat with oil and season both sides. When fire is medium-hot, place mahi mahi on well-cleaned and lightly oiled grill grate. Depending on thickness of fillet and heat of fire, grill for 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Allow to rest for 5 minutes (covered) before serving with slaw on the side.
Joe the butcher says...
Welcome to my backyard grill.
Ask Joe: HOW DO I CHOOSE THE BEST STEAK? Everyone has their own taste preferences when it comes to the different cuts of steaks. The basic difference between the cuts of meat has to do with the marbling of the steak and how the steak is graded. A steak can be graded Prime, Choice, or Select by the United States Department of Agriculture. The determining factors for grading is the fat content better known as “marbling” and the age of the animal. Prime meat is the superior grade of meat but is more expensive and often exported. IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN A LEAN PIECE OF MEAT I suggest that you choose a Fillet Mignon steak. If you are interested in something with a little more marbling flavor, I suggest the Rib Eye Steak or a New York Strip Steak. If you are interested in a steak that is still on the bone you could go with a Porterhourse, T-Bone, or Bone-In Rib Eye. A Porterhouse steak has the filet on one side and the strip on the other side, so you get two steaks for the price of one. Steaks that are on the bone get a nice juicy flavor while cooking. In today’s economy, you can find some more economically friendly steaks with the Skirt Steak, Flank Steak, Sirloin Steak, Chuck Steak and the London Broil. These steaks are great marinated and good for the family when you are looking for a tasty steak at an affordable price.
WHAT SHOULD I USE TO SEASON MY STEAK? At Kenrick’s we gladly season any steak you purchase with our large selection of seasonings and marinades. My favorite recipe for seasoning a steak is: 2-Garlic Cloves Minced 1-Teaspoon of Salt 1-Teaspoon of Coarse Pepper 6-oz. - Olive Oil 1/2 Lemon Squeeze Marinate steak for two hours in your refrigerator.
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KENRICK’S HAS BUTCHERS ON STAFF THAT WILL WAIT ON YOU AND GIVE ADVICE ON THE BEST WAYS TO PREPARE THE DIFFERENT CUTS OF MEAT AVAILABLE. We also have a large variety of specialty products that can only be found in our state of the art butcher shop for the consumer that is looking for something different to cook without the hassle of buying all the ingredients and making it yourself. It is easy when you come to Kenrick’s. We provide the knowledge and the service it takes to make all your meals taste superb.
JOE’S BEST FLAVOR TIP:
Remember, slow cooking is the key for the meat to absorb the most flavor.
Inspired Food Culture
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61
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Get excited every morning by a new deal! It doesn’t matter if you are a busy working mother of three like me or a hip college student who haunts Washington Avenue by night – we all love shopping, eating out and don’t want to pay full price. Plus, most of us don’t have time to search the web for the best deal! That’s why Today’s Deal is a part of my morning and should be part of yours. Each day I receive one, deeply discounted offer in an e-mail from STLtoday or access the deal at stltoday.com/todaysdeal. To start receiving your offers, sign up today in two easy steps: ❖ go to stltoday.com/todaysdeal ❖ enter your e-mail address and wake up each morning to a new deal – Today’s Deal!
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Meat & Catering
Home of Real Live Butchers,with Old Fashion Butcher Service For over 75 years, The Mateker Family has supplied the St. Louis Area with the Finest in meat, deli and Seafood. In 1995 Mateker’s began to expand their business into the Catering Industry. Each catered Job is a unique exp experience, p which transforms your special event into a delicately delicious savor, which hich is unp unparalleled in the industry today. Mention this ad and receive ceive 5% OFF of a full service catering job!
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I’M CRUSHED | WRITTEN BY | Shera Dalin | PHOTOGRAPHY BY | Carmen Troesser
The standard frozen cocktail, long disdained by trained mixologists, is undergoing a transformation to a smart, sophisticated libation of layered flavors.
The Green Goddess Daiquiri BY P.J. DOYLE OF RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE
This summer-fresh drink requires juicing a cucumber, but if you don’t have a juicer you could use a food processor and strain the juices. To float the Chartreuse, pour gently over the back of a spoon held over the glass. Serves | 1 | 2 oz 1 oz ¾ oz 1½ oz 1 oz 1 tsp 1 cup ½ oz 1 slice
Hendrick’s Gin freshly squeezed lime juice simple syrup fresh cucumber juice (strained) St-Germain Elderflower Liqueur honey ice yellow Chartreuse cucumber sea salt
BLENDED ICE DRINK
| Preparation | Add all ingredients except yellow Chartreuse, cucumber and salt to blender and blend until smooth. Pour into goblet and float Chartreuse on top. Garnish with a fresh cucumber slice, lightly dusted with sea salt.
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How to Chill A little savvy mixology will help you blend up stellar summer cocktails. Here are a few techniques to try.
CRACKED ICE COCKTAILS
For cracked ice drinks (versus those whipped up in a blender), use the crushed ice setting on your refrigerator’s ice maker or your blender. If your fridge doesn’t have an ice maker, place ice cubes in a dish towel and crack the ice using a meat mallet or a heavy wooden muddler. Use the towel funnel-style to channel the ice
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to a glass. Ideally you’ll have fairly uniform small pieces of ice rather than a variety of sizes. Mix all your other ingredients in a shaker before you crush the ice so there’s less melt time in the glass. Pour the mixture over the ice and serve pronto. BLENDED ICE DRINKS
For frozen drinks mixed in a blender, it’s best to use a model with a glass carafe. Plastic is more likely to break, can have residual odors from previous blends and can be stained by acidic, brightly hued liquids. Load the blender with all your drink ingredients first, and then add the ice. Pulse all ingredients on the ice crush setting (rather than just leaving the blender on) to avoid ice jams. Once the ice is broken down, blend on medium until you get a smooth texture. Adjust the drink to taste, but remember: Adding more ice dilutes the flavors. A great starting point for home bartenders eager to experiment is the basic sour recipe: ¾ of a lemon, juiced; 1 oz simple syrup; 1½ to 2 oz liquor. Then add some of your favorite summertime flavors. FROZEN FRUIT CONCOCTIONS
Instead of adding ice to your cocktail recipe, try using frozen fruits. Just freeze fruit picked fresh from the garden or purchased at the farmers’ market. Store-bought frozen fruits work well as long as they have no sugar, preservatives or other processed ingredients added. For original blends, experiment with nontraditional bases such as rice, almond or coconut milk or juices like passion fruit, guava, mango, guanabana or pomegranate.
Discover the New Lifestyle Series! 7 COMMUNITIES TO CHOOSE FROM! WE ARE ALWAYS OPEN AT:
PayneFamilyHomes.com | 314.477.1218 Inspired Food Culture
Saint Louis
65
COMING IN AUGUST: • Get hands-on in our Japanese cooking class with columnist Gabrielle DeMichele at the beautiful Schnucks Cooking School. • Indulge in a free happy hour wine tasting at 1111 Mississippi with our On The Shelf columnist, Angela Ortmann. • Watch a live cooking demonstration and sample the goods at L'Ecole Culinaire's class inspired from this month's Flaming Fish feature.
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Voted AOL cityguide Best Italian, Best Toasted Ravioli. Proud to be the Oldest Restaurant on the Hill!
CRACKED ICE COCKTAIL Al Amanecer BY HEATHER DODDERER OF HERBIE’S VINTAGE ‘�� AND MONARCH RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR
This drink has a luminous sunrise color and a little kick from the pepper jelly. Serves | 1 | 2 oz ¾
El Tesoro Añejo Tequila lime, juiced
¾ oz
passion fruit concentrate
½ oz 1 tsp
grenadine pepper jelly cracked ice lime twist for garnish
| Preparation | Combine tequila through pepper jelly in a mixing glass and shake for 30 to 45 seconds. Crack ice and fill a cocktail glass. Strain mixture into cocktail glass. Garnish with a spiral lime twist.
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Fresh = Fantastic P.J. Doyle, beverage director for the Ruth’s Chris Steak House franchise in St. Louis, likes to experiment with whatever fruits and vegetables are in season. For a cracked ice cocktail in the spring, he tosses in a handful of arugula; in the summer he might use the juice of a fresh cucumber; in the fall he might whip up drinks with pumpkin seeds or nutmeg. For a flavorful late-summer sipper, try the following: →
Grab some fresh basil or mint from your garden to
create a strawberry-basil or chocolate-mint concoction. →
Juice or strain fresh vegetables such as cucumbers,
tomatoes, arugula or carrots. →
Purée raspberries, strawberries, blackberries, açaí or
any other fruit you adore. For a bit of added sweetness, branch out from sugar or simple syrup and look to natural sweeteners such as fresh fruit juices and agave nectar. Heather Dodderer, the bar manager for Herbie’s Vintage ‘72 and Monarch Restaurant and Wine Bar, also likes to mix in honey, applesauce, jams or jellies.
FROZEN FRUIT CONCOCTION
THREE MORE ICY LIBATIONS
Fresa Flor
Summer in The Loop
Frozen Bellini
West End Mojito
BY HEATHER DODDERER OF HERBIE’S VINTAGE ‘�� AND MONARCH RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR
BY LUCAS RAMSEY OF ECLIPSE RESTAURANT
BY JEFFRY HAKENWERTH OF WILD FLOWER RESTAURANT
BY JEFFRY HAKENWERTH OF WILD FLOWER
This is a great way to wake up on a hot Sunday morning.
Serves | 1 |
Serves | 1 | ½ cup
sliced frozen strawberries
½ cup
sliced frozen banana
¼ cup
frozen blueberries
1 cup 2 oz 1
milk Flor de Caña extra-dry white rum banana for garnish
| Preparation | In a blender, mix all ingredients except the garnish on medium speed for 60 seconds or until smooth. Serve in a pub glass. Slice banana into ½-inch rounds and slide 3 to 4 rounds onto an extra-long toothpick. Place across top of glass for garnish.
This old-school take on lemonade has a hint of ginger. The blended version of the cocktail isn’t available in the restaurant, but you can try it at home. Serves | 1 | 1½ oz
209 Gin
¾ oz
blackberry liqueur
½ oz
Domaine de Canton
½ cup
BLENDED ICE DRINK
ice squeeze of lemon juice blackberry for garnish lemon slice for garnish
| Preparation | In a blender, mix all ingredients except the garnish until smooth. Pour into a Collins glass. Garnish with a fresh blackberry and lemon slice.
Serves | 1 | 1 oz
Absolut vodka
1 oz
peach schnapps
3 oz
peach purée
1 cup 1½ oz 1
BLENDED ICE DRINK
ice Verdi Spumante peach slice or strawberry for garnish
| Preparation | In a blender, mix all ingredients except Verdi Spumante and peach slice/strawberry until smooth. In last few seconds of blending, add the Verdi Spumante. Pour into a wine goblet. Garnish with peach slice or fresh strawberry.
RESTAURANT
2
strawberries, stemmed and sliced
3
large basil leaves
4
small ice cubes
¾ oz
simple syrup
1½ oz
10 Cane Rum
1 cup 1 splash 1 1 sprig
CRACKED ICE COCKTAIL
crushed ice club soda strawberry for garnish basil for garnish
| Preparation | Place first three ingredients in shaker and muddle until the basil and berries have a soft, consistent texture. Add simple syrup, rum, ice and club soda. Shake until well-mixed. Pour into goblet. Garnish rim with strawberry and basil sprig. Inspired Food Culture
Saint Louis
69
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UNIQUE TO ST. LOUIS UNIQUELY YOU
BLENDERS
Athletic team collectibles and apparel
Historical table top books spanning decades – also available in local book stores
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Diane Katzman “only in St. Louis” line of jewelry and ornaments
| 1 | VitaMix Professional Series 500 (1,500 watts). You see this machine in restaurant
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bars. It’s a workhorse meant for professional use. Also juices and dry chops. $599.95, Williams-Sonoma, multiple locations, williams-sonoma.com | 2 | KitchenAid 5-Speed Blender (650 watts). Five speeds for chopping, puréeing and crushing ice. The polycarbonate carafe is shatter-resistant and won’t stain. $99.99, J.C. Penney, multiple locations, jcpenney.com | 3 | Waring Pro Electric Ice Crusher (150 watts). Great for cocktail parties; simply load ice cubes in the top and this professionalgrade ice crusher produces up to 12 cups of crushed ice at once. $79.95, Kitchen
The ST. LOUIS POST-DISPATCH has been covering St. Louis news since 1878. The P-D Store brings those historical events, style, and local flavors to life through retail items available only at thepost-dispatchstore.com.
70
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Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, kitchenconservatory. com | 4 | Cuisinart PowerEdge Blender (1,000 watts). A pre-set pulse function alternates timed pauses with bursts of power for smooth blending. $199.95, Williams-Sonoma | 5 | Margaritaville Frozen Concoction Maker 2000 (550 watts). Makes blended drinks a breeze with a four-step frozen drink process. Comes with settings for margaritas, mudslides, daiquiris and smoothies. $349.95, Sur La Table, Plaza Frontenac, surlatable.com
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Inspired Food Culture
Saint Louis
71
ST L .COM ONLINE COLUMN SCHEDULE: Shop Girl Columnist Heidi Dean takes you inside St. Louis’ hidden culinary gems.
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MONDAY:
TUESDAY: Day in the Life
Each week Pat Eby gets to know the food folks behind the scenes of St. Louis’ culinary world. WEDNESDAY: Quite the Pair Local wine expert Angie Ortmann visits a different restaurant each week, chooses a stellar dish and peruses the wine list for perfect pairs by the glass and by the bottle.
Dinner and a Show In partnership with KDHX 88.1 FM, we bring you each weekend’s must-see concert pick and suggest where to dine before the music begins.
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FRIDAY : Travelogue Feast contributors travel the world to bring you food culture from all corners of the globe.
AND MAKE SURE YOU VISIT US FOR ONLINE EXCLUSIVES SUCH AS THE UPCOMING PHOTO ESSAY ON
WANDERLUST
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The Gianino Family Restaurants
35 th
Anniversary !#$% " &!&
.(F9( 5(K(=9?6 <$ 6"( J<6 9( C;<6" ;& 84$476
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Follow chef and creator Erik Jacobs as he builds out his Airstream eatery.
72
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LAWN & GARDEN
REAL ESTATE FOR RENT
Time for Some
Hard Work Yard Work
ANNOUNCEMENTS
CLEANING SERVICES
BRIGHT
CLEANING SPECIALISTS Come in for Friendship & Fun, New finishing methods, New finishing ideas for old canvases, or to sit and stitch with us, anytime. We have time for you to find Gift ideas Or try your "First National Teacher Class" September 22 or 23 Learn threads and stitches in a relaxed atmosphere. We welcome you. Judy, Linda, Judy, Linda, Angela, Nancy and Pam theneedlepointclubhouse.com 314-432-2555
Drapery & Upholstery Cleaning Lighting & Chandeliers Power Washing Awnings, Decks & Siding All Services Performed On-Site
Tom Novak, Owner 314.484.0128
Fully Insured • Free Estimates www.brightclean.net
SCRUB IT UP For A Perfectly Clean House Detailed, Smart, Efficient Insured, Bonded & Licensed
LEGOS WANTED!!
We Buy Used, Loose, Boxed, Tubs, Collections and Anything Lego. Call Tom at 314.398.0174
BEAUTY
THYMES PRODUCTS NOW AVAILABLE AT CREVE COUER TAILOR
314-997-2882 CLEANING SERVICES
Residential • Offices • Construction Weekly, Bi-Weekly, Monthly, Last Minute, One Time, Fill In, Parties, Detail Cleaning & Rental Properties Weekends & Evenings Available
KATHERINE
314-556-9506 See
www.oliviacleaners.com For weekly specials
DISCOUNTS ON SUMMER DETAIL CLEANING & ORGANIZATIONAL SERVICES Including Garage, Basement, Move In/Out Cleaning, Attic, Oven, Pantries, Closets, Fridge & Much More • Insured & Bonded
ï RESTAURANT CLEANING ï ïGerm Control ï Green Cleaning ï ï Office Cleaning ï Deep Cleaning ï ï Basement & Garage Cleaning ï ï Windows ï Move-In/Move-Out ï ï High Cleaning ï Light Hauling ï
314-727-3355 ï Locally Owned & Operated ï www.cleanatron.com
HEALTH & FITNESS BEST OF BOTH WORLDS! Massage Therapist and Personal Trainer. Gift Certificates Available. Treat Your Self, You Deserve It. Call Ken 314.575.1212 or email at masseur2001@hotmail.com
HEALTHCARE SERVICES NEW ERA SERVICE FOR SENIORS (NESS) Get the Personalized Care You Desire In Your Home! MET-LIFE Certified. ïAssist with daily bathing & dressing. ïEscort and assist with outdoor and daily activities. ïHome cleaning and meal prepping. ïALS, Parkinson's, Alzheimer's, Etc. ïOne-on-one personal caregiving ïLive-in companion available. License and Bonded Call Today for a Professional Assessment 314-323-3277 nes4s@yahoo.com HOME HEALTH HELP 13 Years Experience, Flexible Hours, and Reasonable Rates. Professional, Compassionate Reliable Care. 314-495-0423
SUMMER LANDSCAPING Landscape Design Summer Clean-Up & Re-Vitalization Brush clearing • Bed preparation Tilling • Weeding & mulching • Planting • Tree/Shrub fertilization, trimming and removal • Lawn fertilization, weed control, de-thatching, sodding and seeding • Gutter cleaning • Power washing • Stone walls, patios, and borders Drainage solutions
The Hard Work Yard Work Co. LLC For Free Estimates call Keith at 314-422-0241 or e-mail at
hwyardwork@aol.com since 2001
PAINTING
DECK STAINING BY BRUSH ONLY
No Spraying ï No Rolling ï No Mess Specializing in Hardwood Decks Work Guaranteed ï Insured ï Ref's 10% OFF ALL SERVICES
Cedar Beautiful
314-852-5467 ï 314-846-6499 www.cedarbeautiful.com BBB Member•Credit Cards Accepted
Linda 314-409-4699 â Owner www.scrubitup.vpweb.com
ALL ABOUT CLEANING, INC.
FREE 1 HOUR CLEANING! (with purchase of 3 hour cleaning) Residential-Office-Construction windows, power washing, lg mirrors, 314-822-3851 allaboutcleaninginc.com Since 1975 â Insured & Bonded
GUTTERS/ROOFING CLAYTON HEIGHT'S GUTTER & HOME EXTERIORS Specializing in Copper & Aluminum Guttering Soffit & Fascia Covering Insured & Small Jobs O.K. Paul Steinbrook 7568 Wise Avenue St. Louis, MO 63117 Tel: 314-971-2074 www.clayton-heights.com
HANDYMAN SERVICES HOUSE DOCTOR Powerwashing, Painting, Wallpaper Removal, Patio Design, Landscaping, Housecleaning, Organization, Etc. The Sure Cure, Finally A Doctor That Makes House Calls! Joe 314-416-4645 MASTER ELECTRICIAN with 30 Years Experience. No Job Too Small or Big. Guaranteed Low Estimate. 314-609-1015 Larry
"A Reflection of Excellence" When you want your stone to show its true beauty choose the best.
Call: 636-561-3055 Email: stnwrksinc@aol.com Web site: stonemastersinc.org
WOOD FLOOR REFINISHING 25-yr. Old Fully Insured Company. Sanding, Refinishing, Repairs, New Installation. Free Estimates. PROFESSIONAL FLOORS OF ST. LOUIS 314-843-4348 www.profloorstl.com COMPLETE HOME REMODELING Decks, Kitchens, Baths, Basements 25 years experience FREE estimates! TOM RYAN 314-952-9707 Thomasryancontracting.com
LAWN & GARDEN "Get your BBQ Grill cleaned for summer cookouts!" Celebrate the holiday in style with a clean, healthy grill. Our steam bath process helps remove greasy buildup and harmful carcinogens. Grill healthier, better tasting food. Call Steve 314-452-7192 or visit www.bbqgrillco.com CERTIFIED Master Gardner Seeking all types of gardening work. Weeding, Containers, Beds, Boarders, Etc. Good References. Call Teresa 314-306-1197
REAL ESTATE FOR SALE GENTLEMAN'S FARM 4 BR, 3 BA, 1.5 Acre Stocked Lake 75 MI. West Of St. Louis Metal Building with Horse Stalls. Exclusive Properties, Inc. Owensville, MO 65066 $258,500 toll free 877-437-8633
SERVICES
Eva Marie’s Transportation Serving Seniors, Medical Patients and Corporate Travelers
Prompt & Courteous from Door to Door
PET SERVICES
Since 1997
314-484-2373
HOME IMPROVEMENT
STONE MASTERS
10404 FRONTENAC WOODS LN Frontenac 63131 4BR, 3.5BA, 5000 sq. ft., Finished Basement with Kitchen. Inground Pool. 3 Car Garage. 1+Acre. 314-222-9016 leave message
The Well Behaved Pet ...is training for all YOUR
pets needs. Specialize in New Puppy, Puppy Mill Rescue Dogs or behavorial problems. I do home training to fit into YOUR lifestyle!
Gutter Clean Out, Stone Floor Restoration • Window Cleaning • Power Washing Decks & Walkways • Roof Cleaning • Interior Auto Detailing
Call me, I can help! Call LAURA 636-456-9993
We do tough stuff for homeowners who care.
Pick up & Delivery Available
CREATURE COMFORTS GREAT & SMALL offers pet sitting, grooming, training, pet photography as well as concierge services. Creature Comforts sets itself apart from the rest by providing the entire Metropolitan St. Louis area with highly professional services tailored to your needs. CCGS is wellpositioned to care for a wide range of pets, both exotic and domestic alike. CreatureComfortsGreatnSmall.com ALL CRITTER CARE Grooming, Boarding, House Sitting, Home Visits & Day Care for Your Pet. Free Pickup and Delivery Insured & Bonded. Angie's List Winner & PSI Member 314-631-6738 info@allcrittercarestl.com ADORABLE POODLE PUPPIES!! AKC, Standards & Miniatures. Home Raised By Registered Breeder. 5th Generation Labradoodles (636)937-6171 www.ssspoodles.com
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puLL up a chair
ThE VEGETaL chair written by brandi Wills
Designed for Vitra by Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec in 2008, the Vegetal chair was inspired by shapes organic to the world of vegetation. This stackable polyamide chair is suitable for indoor or outdoor use and is available in six nature-inspired colors. $555; Centro Modern Furnishings, 4727 McPherson Ave., Central West End, centro-inc.com
And here are the chair’s perfect pairs:
petalo table
“Shaped like an individual petal, the Petalo table from Zanotta follows the organic design philosophy of the Vegetal chair. Plus, it comes in a wood or marble top to accommodate different uses and design styles. you won’t find another table in this shape anywhere on the market, making it a truly unique combination.”
harveSt table
“Pairing the Harvest table with the Vegetal chair creates a beautiful visual juxtaposition; the chair is rounded and brightly colored, and the table has hard edges and an earthy walnut construction. taking a new product with a very modern design and teaming it with this traditional, handsome table makes for a great combination.”
Todd Lannom, co-owner, Centro Modern Furnishings $2,452-$4,667 depending on size and finish; Centro Modern Furnishings, 4727 McPherson Ave., Central West End, centro-inc.com
Ben Swofford, studio proprietor, Design Within Reach $2,900; Design Within Reach, 44 Maryland Plaza, Central West End, dwr.com
black walnut accent table
“After considering several options, i selected this table from Arteriors Home for its clean, simple, sensuous lines that are a nice juxtaposition to the curves of the Vegetal chair. the table has a nice weight to balance the airiness of the chair without being heavy or cumbersome. i also thought it was a nice scale to the chair and kept the organic nature of the chair in focus.”
Gigi Lombrano, senior designer, Frank Patton Interiors $389; Frank Patton Interiors, 13133 Manchester Road, Des Peres, frankpatton.com
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feastSTL.com
AUGUST 2010
aStro Dining table
Santorini teak Dining table
“the clean, modern look of our teak table showcases the interesting lines of the Vegetal chair. this pairing is wonderful for outdoor entertaining the whole season.”
“i love that you can create an endless amount of pairings with the cool white finish of the Astro table from italModern. Aesthetically, it brings to mind a crisp white china plate waiting to be adorned with a beautiful arrangement of colorful fruit! the rounded back of the Vegetal chair complements the soft curves of the Astro table, which is suitable for eat-in kitchens or small dining rooms.”
Theresa Hunt, design consultant, Williams-Sonoma Home
Carla Hunigan, proprietor, St. Louis Loft Style
$999; Williams-Sonoma Home, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, wshome.com
$1,155; St. Louis Loft Style, stlloftstyle.com
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