August 2022 Feast Magazine by Feast Magazine

august 2022

a new kind of

NEIGHBORHOOD BAR learn to brew

AT SLU

s r e e h C

TO 2022'S FEAST 50 AWARD WINNERS

TXT WINE CLUB

A Taste of History in Every Glass AUGUSTA, AMERICA’S FIRST WINE REGION J U S T 4 5 M I N U T E S F R O M D O W N T O W N S T. L O U I S

Enjoy the charm, history, and wines while taking in breathtaking views of the rolling hills. Sit outside and enjoy the wine gardens, play games, and enjoy family time. Hop on/off the free trolleys to shop in town or enjoy a glass of wine at our vineyards. Augusta is WINE COUNTRY.

P A R T O F T H E H O F F M A N N FA M I LY O F C O M P A N I E S

www.VisitAugustaMO.com

NOW E L B A L I A V A Y A D O W T S T E TICK PURCHASE

TICKETS, RESERVE A TOUR, OR LEARN MORE AT:

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/ 11 /

HEALTHY APPETITE Cheladas with Fried Plantains and Marinated Shrimp

/ 12 / ONE ON ONE Chad Thompson of Iron Hops Brewing Co.

/ 13 / QUICK FIX Grilled Watermelon and Halloumi Skewers

/ 14 / ON TREND Charcuterie Boards

/ 17 / ONE ON ONE Brandon Eckardt of Naked Spirits

/ 18 / HOMETOWN HITS Missouri Wine Country

/ 20 / MYSTERY SHOPPER

A BETTER BAR

/ 22 / ONE ON ONE

Platypus in The Grove

Chanterelles

Randy Boyce of The Blue Duck

/23 / PRO PICKS Mark Grey of The Famous Bar

/ 24 / DINE & DRINK Honey Bee Tea, Cleaver & Cocktail and Menya Rui

/ 26 / ONE ON ONE Josh Miller of Narrow Gauge Brewing Co.

/ 28 / RESTAURANTS REVIEWED Highlights from Ian Froeb

/29 / FEAST 50 AWARDS Celebrating the winners of our readers’ choice awards

/ 51 /

THE BREW CREW SLU’s brewing science program

/ 63 / NO BOOZE, ALL BITE The rise of nonalcoholic wine 4

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2022-23

08/05 Feast at the Garden

7 OR 8-SHOW SEASON TICKET PACKAGES NOW ON SALE

Fri., August 5, 5 to 7pm, 9 Mile Garden, 9375 Gravois Road, Affton, Missouri Join Feast Magazine as we celebrate the release of the August issue and the best wine, beer and spirits that St. Louis has to offer! Enjoy live music, tasty bites from local food trucks and beverages from the Canteen – all while honoring the foodand-drink pros who are reimagining the local culinary scene!

BROADWAY SEASON

at the

GARDEN September 20 - October 2, 2022

October 11-23, 2022

November 2-13, 2022

January 24 - February 5, 2023

February 28 - March 12, 2023

March 21 - April 2, 2023

08/30 Schnucks Cooks: Grilled Watermelon and Halloumi Skewers Sat., August 20, 6 to 9pm; $55; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, 12332 Manchester Road, Des Peres, Missouri; nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/ cooking-school In this class, we will learn how to create a Greek feast. We’ll make watermelon and halloumi skewers, Greek-style fish with marinated tomatoes and spanakopita. For dessert, we’ll enjoy ergolavi, a traditional almond cookie.

Fire up the grill for friends and family! Go to feastmazagine.com and read more about the best summer grilling ideas.

8-SHOW PACKAGE INCLUDES

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Cooking with Joe Tender Baby Back Ribs Ingredients: • 1 teaspoon seasoned salt • 1 rack of baby back ribs from Kenrick’s. • 1 teaspoon black pepper (Ask the butcher to take skin off the back of the ribs.) • 1 teaspoon onion powder • 1/2 cup brown sugar • 1 tablespoon garlic powder • 2 tablespoons paprika • 1 tablespoon chili powder Directions: 1. Mix the dry ingredients together to form a rub. 2. Apply the rub to the ribs and let them stay overnight in the refrigerator. 3. Grill the ribs on indirect heat for about an hour or until the temperature reaches 155 degrees F. 4. Remove the ribs from the grill and drizzle your favorite barbecue sauce over the top of them. 5. Wrap the ribs individually in aluminum foil and put in oven at 225 to 250 degrees F for another 45 minutes until the meat tenderizes in the oven and comes right off of the bone. a

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VOLUME 12 / ISSUE 08

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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

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Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2022 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by Lee Enterprises..

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ON THE COVER Cocktail, photo by Judd Demaline TABLE OF CONTENTS Platypus cocktails, photo by Judd Demaline

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314-310-0099 Locally Owned and Operated Like us on 8

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and

editor’s letter Folks, I’d like to make a toast.

on recruiting fresh talent, promoting

Please join me in raising a glass to

a healthier workplace, and crafting

the winners of this year’s Feast 50

inventive menus on a regular basis.

awards. From food trucks to bake

On p. 18, discover three under-

shops to breweries and everything

the-radar wineries that are definitely

in between, we’re shining a light on

worth the trip. Interested in the

the people and businesses that have

wine scene but not the buzz? On

satisfied our cravings, brought us to

p. 63, score a status update on the

the table with family and friends, and

nonalcoholic wines you should be

made 2022 just a little brighter.

shopping locally – and the varietals

Turn to p. 29 to discover who our readers chose as the best of the best

that are most likely to win you over. For those inspired to elevate their

in the local food industry this year,

home bar after reading this issue, be

and save your copy of this issue as

sure to flag p. 23, where The Famous

your ultimate St. Louis food-and-

Bar owner Mark Gray shares his top

beverage bucket list.

recommendations for the essential

Speaking of toasts, this issue also marks our annual celebration of

tools every home mixologist needs. And whatever you do, don’t forget

local beer, wine and spirits, as well

the snacks. On p. 14, check out the

as the makers behind them. On p. 51,

locally crafted charcuterie boards

associate editor Charlotte Renner

you have to try the next time you’re

talks with the leaders of the Saint

entertaining guests.

Louis University program currently educating the next generation of

Congratulations to all of our Feast 50 winners – and cheers, everyone!

brewers. And flip to p. 56 for digital editor

Cheers,

Kasey Carlson’s interview with the owners of Platypus – a neighborhood spot in The Grove that is redefining what a career in the bar industry can look like. Carlson details the bar’s

Emily Adams

refreshing program, which focuses

emily.adams@feastmagazine.com

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PROMOTION

Opt in to Good For You or learn more at schnucks.com/ goodforyou

HAPPY, HEALTHY KIDS When you tell kids you’re having broccoli for dinner, what comes to mind? If it’s anything like my childhood experience, it’s a lightly steamed green floret on a plate.

BROCCOLI TOTS WITH LEMON YOGURT DIP SERVES 4

way to make healthy eating fun and exciting.

2 medium-size broccoli heads 2 large eggs 1 cup panko breadcrumbs ½ cup sharp Cheddar cheese

The recipe this month, takes an ordinary broccoli floret and transforms it into a

PREPARATION

Nothing against steamed broccoli, but that can be a hard sell for kids and adults alike. Sometimes, it takes a little bit of creativity and presenting a vegetable in a new

fun tot that can be dipped and eaten with fingers instead of utensils. The great news is we’ve crafted up a recipe with a kid-friendly dip packed with Good For You ingredients growing kids need. Maybe it’s just my girls, but every food seems to taste better with dip. It doesn’t seem to matter what is for dinner, there is always some sort of dip on their plates.

scan here

1 ½ tsp garlic powder, divided ½ cup Schnucks nonfat Greek yogurt 1 lemon, juiced and zested

Preheat oven to 375 degree. Cut florets off broccoli heads and break them into medium pieces; remove outer skin of broccoli stems with vegetable peeler and cut stems into medium pieces. In a medium pot, bring water to boil. Steam broccoli pieces for 2 minutes and immediately drain. Rinse with cold water. In a food processor, pulse

If dip isn’t the golden ticket to get your kids to try new foods, I encourage you to

cooked broccoli in short bursts, about 30 seconds to 1 minute total,

get them into the kitchen. Allowing kids to help with tasks like measuring, stirring

until broccoli is rice-size.

and scooping are great ways to help them develop their motor skills, create a sense of ownership for their food, try something new and most importantly help them

In a large mixing bowl combine broccoli, eggs, breadcrumbs,

develop a positive relationship with food. So grab your ingredients and get cooking

cheese and 1 teaspoon garlic powder. On a large baking sheet lined

with your kids in the kitchen. If you want more kid-friendly recipes, grab this

with parchment paper, scoop 1 Tablespoon of mixture and form

month’s Simply Schnucks magazine and let your kids pick out a new recipe to try.

into tot shape. Repeat until all mixture is gone. Bake for about 20

Your kitchen might get messy, but your bellies and hearts will be full!

minutes or until golden brown. In a small mixing bowl, combine remaining garlic powder, yogurt and lemon until thoroughly mixed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve tots warm with lemon

SPONSORED CONTENT BY

ALLISON PRIMO

SCHNUCKS REGISTERED DIETITIAN

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yogurt dip on the side.

H E A LT H Y A P P E T I T E / O N T R E N D / H O M E T O W N H I T S / M Y S T E R Y S H O P P E R / Q U I C K F I X

/ DINE & DRINK

SERVES | 6 |

Cheladas with Fried Plantain & Marinated Shrimp STORY AND RECIPE BY GABY WEIR VERA, CHEF / PHOTO BY BEN NICKELSON

FRIED PLANTAIN

T I Pe!recipe,

e le th Doub y eating th ins njo and e een planta gr fried chips for as the ing up scoop d shrimp. e t a marin

green plantain, peeled, sliced thinly (preferably with a mandoline)

cups vegetable oil coarse salt

MARINATED SHRIMP SKEWERS 2

Sitting by the beach while enjoying an icy cold Chelada with marinated shrimp on a hot summer day is a lovely memory of my last visit to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. A Chelada is a classic

¼ 1

blend of a light lager beer combined with salt and lime juice,

lbs medium shrimp, peeled, tail on, blanched cup red onion, finely chopped small jalapeño pepper, finely chopped

and it is a recipe I often make at home on the hottest of days.

cup cilantro, minced

After salting the rim of a glass for the Cheladas, I complete this

cup lime juice, freshly squeezed

treat with a garnish of crispy fried green plantains and cooling marinated shrimp skewers.

tsp coarse salt

CHELADAS 3

12 oz bottles of a light lager beer

limes, freshly juiced, squeezed wedges reserved coarse salt

/ fried plantain preparation / After peeling and thinly slicing the green plantain, place oil in a large heavy pot or deep cast iron skillet and heat until the oil reaches 350°F. Add a few plantain slices to the pan without crowding it and fry, turning occasionally, until golden brown all over, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack or paper-lined plate to drain and cool, and season with salt right away. / marinated shrimp preparation / Place all ingredients for the shrimp in a bowl, and toss to blend well. Keep marinated in the refrigerator for up to three days. Pierce 2 to 3 shrimps with small skewers to serve as garnish for the Cheladas. / chelada preparation / Place some salt on a small plate. Rub the rim of a glass with a lime wedge and immediately place the rim on the plate with the salt until the rim is fully covered. Fill the glass with ice, and add the juice of one lime. Top off with beer, and insert a couple of fried green plantains and a shrimp skewer to garnish.

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ONE ON ONE

ONE on

Chad Thompson / owner, Iron Hops Brewing Co. WRITTEN BY MABEL SUEN PHOTOS COURTESY OF IRON HOPS BREWING CO.

A new custom-built craft brewery was recently revealed at 29

Must-Try Beers From Iron Hops Brewing Co.

Produce Row in north St. Louis. Iron Hops Brewing Co. debuted its manufacturing facilities this summer with a range of different styles and a welldeveloped barrel-aging program. The 5,000-square-foot facility chocolate oatmeal

features a 15-barrel brewhouse owned and operated by head brewer Chad Thompson, who spent 25 years in the St. Louis food and beverage industry before

imperial stout

With a flavor profile uniquely achieved completely by grain alone, this fullbodied beer features rich notes of chocolate and coffee with a complex sweet and bitter finish.

earning an International Diploma in Brewing Technology from the U.S. Siebel Institute of Chicago and Domens Academy in Munich, Germany – both of which are part of The World Brewing Academy. The certified beer server and sommelier also spent a decade as part of the management team with Robust Wine Bar before pursuing his passion for beer full-time.

Where does the brewery get its name from? I’ve always been a fan of the visual aspects of steam punk – industrial meets Victorian – because it’s a style you can have a lot of fun with. To me, it kind of speaks a lot for what I'm looking to do. I want to make high-quality craft beer, but at the same time, I’m not one of those people that takes themselves too seriously. Some people into craft beer say you can’t drink this or that, but that’s not my philosophy. I have stouts, and I drink IPAs. There’s a place for everything here, and I like to experiment and have fun with it. My goal is to make something delicious for everyone. How did COVID-19 affect your plans, and how did you adapt? We were looking for a brick-and-mortar

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in the beginning. Through a few different hiccups and with things opening and closing, we thought the best option would be to scale back with just a production facility to keep that overhead low through industry connections. St. Louis is so fantastic for supporting its local food and beer scene, so we decided we can start smaller this way, get the product out there and push forward from that. What kind of beer will you serve? Starting out I’ll be serving six styles – an IPA, double-hopped APA, amber, weizenbach, chocolate oatmeal imperial stout and pale ale – in six barrels, and then we’ll move into canning. We’ll be focusing on seasonals, one-offs and things on the lager side also. I’m using the chocolate oatmeal imperial stout as

weizenbach

Meaning dark wheat, this German beer features an aromatic flavor profile of coriander, banana and raisin to round out the back end and is great for drinking year-round.

the base of my barrel-aging project. My wife is amazing and patient. She’s the one who got me my first homebrew kit 10 years ago, and now, there’s always a barrel of beer aging somewhere. What is the philosophy behind your barrelaging program? I tend to be a bigger fan of the rye whiskey barrel versus bourbon whiskey. That particular beer is an all-grain; I achieve my chocolate flavor through grain – no chocolate nibs – using the spiciness of the rye as a balancing aspect. I tip my hat to my wine background here, since wine barrels are not used to their full potential. Iron Hops Brewing Co., 29 Produce Row, St. Louis, Missouri, ironhops.com

pale ale

Notes of caramel with a touch of nuttiness and fruit combine for a balanced hop finish that’s refreshing on its own and also great after being aged in red wine oak.

H E A LT H Y A P P E T I T E / O N T R E N D / H O M E T O W N H I T S / M Y S T E R Y S H O P P E R / Q U I C K F I X

/ DINE & DRINK

GRILLED WATERMELON AND HALLOUMI SKEWERS The texture of watermelon changes when grilled. Its normal crisp grittiness disappears into a silky, almost meaty texture. Halloumi is a cheese made from a combination of sheep, goat and/or cow’s milk that does not melt, which makes it perfect for the grill. To keep the halloumi from becoming rubbery, try not to overcook it, and eat it right away. WRITTEN BY AMY FEESE PHOTO BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

In this class, we will learn how to use fresh vegetables to prepare a Greek feast.

G et Hands-On Join Schnucks Cooking School chef amy feese at 3PM on SAT., August 20 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu. For more information on this class, contact the cooking school directly.

for more information and to buy tickets, visit nourish.schnucks.com/schnucks-cooking-school or call 314.909.1704.

SERVES 4 2 8 2

cups watermelon, cut into 1-inch cubes oz halloumi, cut into 1-inch cubes Tbsp olive oil salt and pepper

HONEY LEMON DRESSING 1 tsp lemon zest 2 Tbsp lemon juice 2 Tbsp honey salt

/ preparation / Preheat grill to around 400oF. To make honey lemon dressing, whisk zest, juice and honey together, and season with a little salt. Pat watermelon cubes with a paper towel to remove excess moisture. On skewers, alternate watermelon and halloumi, with two pieces of watermelon between each piece of halloumi. Brush with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Place on grill. Grill on each side for approximately 2 minutes. Remove from grill and drizzle with honey lemon dressing to serve.

MAKE THE MEAL ○ Grilled Watermelon and Halloumi Skewers

○ Spanakopita

○ Greek-Style Fish with Marinated Tomatoes

○ Ergolavi (almond cookies)

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r i e e t u B c o r a a r h

H E A LT H Y A P P E T I T E / O N T R E N D / H O M E T O W N H I T S / M Y S T E R Y S H O P P E R / Q U I C K F I X

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s d

/ DINE & DRINK

WRITTEN BY AUBREY BYRON | PHOTO BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT CHARCUTERIE BOARD DESIGN MY KIM POTSOS OF SOCIAL GRAZE

HAVE YOUR ART AND EAT IT, TOO! In recent years, a humble snack of meat and cheese has transformed into an Instagram-worthy craze, and boards full of delicate salame bouquets, edible flower arrangements and rich cheeses topped with fruit and honey are trending now more than ever. The rise in popularity of charcuterie boards, for many, was born out of a longing for connectivity after a pandemic era of isolation. Now, they continue to be celebratory ways to share something special at social events. Craft the perfect board at home with these tips from local experts.

THE MEATS When it comes to locally produced, artisan-cured meats, St. Louis is home to the best. Charcu in the Lou uses Volpi On the Hill for its salame roses and prosciutto petals. Charcu in the Lou was started by two friends, Cori Bickford and Caitlin Browne, who wanted an outlet for their creative side. Now, the duo stays busy by hosting office workshops on making boards, in addition to delivering special orders. Allison Schilling at St. Louis Cheese Boards loves using the salame chubs from Volpi, as well, in flavors like peppered and Genoa. For Carley Sanders at The Lou Charcuterie, Volpi’s artisan-cured meats add color and local flavor to her brand’s boards. Kim Potsos, owner of Social Graze, meanwhile enjoys using Salume Beddu products. “I like a kind of rustic look,” Potsos says. She especially loves the company’s Soppressata Siciliano, which is made with toasted fennel.

THE CHEESES “I’m a salty cheese kind of gal,” Schilling says. Schilling started making boards while still employed as an essential healthcare worker. After a year of juggling her full-time job, making boards on the side and spending time with her family, she made the leap in 2021 to make cheese her full-time focus. She now can cater large events with offerings from single-serve options to large grazing tables. Potsos prefers Marcoot Creamery products for Social Graze’s boards and is especially fond of the cave-aged Gouda cheese. Social Graze also offers towering, layered Brie cakes, which are topped with honeycomb, dried citrus, figs and edible flowers that make for a unique and stunning party pleaser. Sanders, of The Lou Charcuterie, says she tries to use local ingredients where she can but notes that her favorite cheese right now is a blueberry vanilla goat cheese from Trader Joe’s.

THE ACCOMPANIMENTS For jam, Charcu in the Lou utilizes the award-winning, small-batch preserves of Larder and Cupboard. “The Strawberry Lemon Verbena – year-round – is my absolute favorite,” Browne says. The brand’s dessert boards center on a cake from Made. by Lia, surrounded by funfetti-themed desserts and truffles from Chocolate Chocolate Chocolate Company. At The Lou Charcuterie, Sanders tries to switch it up by featuring small businesses from around the country, like the Austin Jam Co. Locally grown edible flowers give the boards at Social Graze a pop of color. Potsos also loves using honeycomb for its texture. And on boards from St. Louis Cheese Boards, you can find Millis Meadows Honey, which is based in Des Peres, Missouri.

BEST of Weddings 2021 & 2022

“Charcuterie is my love language,” Schilling says.

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PROMOTI ON

PRESENTED BY

MAKE THE MOST OF THE SUMMER’S BERRY BOUNTY S P O N S O R E D C O N T E N T BY K AT H E R I N E L E W I S

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

ACAI BERRIES

STRAWBERRIES

BLUEBERRIES

BLACKBERRIES

Plucked from palm trees in South American rainforests then blended into seemingly every smoothie under the sun, acai berries gained popularity in just a few short years. But are they worth the hype? While these berries aren’t a quick fix for any ailment, they are terrific sources of antioxidants, and they’re full of fiber. Nutritionally speaking, they’re similar to every other berry.

At home atop toast, tossed into salads or even muddled into cocktails, strawberries are the most popular berry in the world. Better still, they’re as versatile as they are delicious, and the heart is the biggest benefactor: Strawberries have been shown to increase good cholesterol, lower bad cholesterol and protect against cardiovascular disease.

If the goal is to eat a rainbow of colors, blue and purple foods are the gold standard. Blueberries are a textbook example: Their inky hue comes from pigments called anthocyanins, a powerful compound that helps prevent cell damage that can lead to some cancers and diseases. Besides antioxidants, they’re packed with fiber and vitamin A, which is crucial for bone and heart health. Enjoy them whole for the most benefits.

It’s true that blackberries have a short shelf life and that they’re not as popular as some other berries. Even so, they are worth a spot in your fridge: These diminutive drupes are excellent sources of fiber and vitamins E, C and K. And because they aren’t as in demand as many other fruits, they haven’t been as highly cultivated, meaning that store-bought blackberries are more closely related to their wild-grown kin.

Mixed Berry Oatmeal Bars INGREDIENTS 1 cup granola ½3 cup packed brown sugar ½ tsp salt 1 tsp cinnamon ¾ cup flour ½ cup unsalted butter, melted 1 ¼ cup mixed berries (fresh or frozen — we used blueberries, blackberries and raspberries)

YOUR HEALTH TIPS

1 ½ tsp flour Berries just might be the perfect late-summer fruit. They ripen and sweeten as the season progresses, lending a burst of color and infusion of flavor to everything from yogurt at the breakfast table to drinks by the pool. Even more important, they are among the body’s greatest allies. “Berries are low in calories but full of nutrients, including powerful antioxidants, fiber, potassium, magnesium and various important vitamins,” says Yin Cao, ScD, MPH, an associate professor of surgery and medicine at Washington University School of Medicine. Berries’ brilliant colors indicate high levels of anthocyanin, a crucial compound that helps the body defend against diabetes, cardiovascular disease and some cancers. The darker a fruit or vegetable is, Cao says, the more nutrients it has, so vibrant berries of all kinds are winners. They are brimming with antioxidants, too. “The antioxidants in berries help keep you healthy in a variety of ways by

Some berries — looking at you, goji and acai — have gone from obscure to rock star. While incorporating a range of fruits and vegetables into your diet is always a good idea, even the most common berries can bring major benefits. “Berries are a great source of vitamin C, which helps keep your immune system functioning well and can help fight infection,” Cao says. “All berries are a good source of this, but strawberries might be the best — just one cup of strawberries contains 150% of your recommended daily intake.” Blackberries and raspberries are high in fiber. However, for all their cachet, trendy berries alone won’t lead to weight loss. Cao points out, “The fiber in all berries help keep you feeling fuller longer. This helps you consume

siteman.wustl.edu/YDR

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1 Tbsp lemon juice (about ½ a lemon)

helping to prevent cell damage,” Cao says. “For example, they can help fight the inflammation in your body that can contribute to conditions like heart disease and obesity.”

FOR GLAZE ½ cup powdered sugar

YIN CAO, ScD, MPH Washington University School of Medicine associate professor of surgery and medicine PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

fewer calories to keep weight in check while regulating your digestive system.” Cao recommends stocking up on berries now, while they’re in season and affordable, even if you can’t use them right away. “The good news is that you get the same nutritional benefits from frozen berries, so you can enjoy them year round,” she says. “Add a handful to a smoothie or stir into a bowl of oatmeal for even more healthy benefits!”

3 Tbsp heavy cream

PREPARATION Preheat oven to 375°F. Grease an 8-inch square pan. In a large bowl, mix granola, brown sugar, salt, cinnamon, ¾ cup flour and melted butter. Set aside ½ cup of mixture. Pour remaining granola mixture into bottom of pan. Pat down so it is even and tightly packed. Spread berries over oatmeal mixture and sprinkle with 1 ½ tsp flour and lemon juice. Spread reserved granola mixture over berries to create topping. Bake for 40–45 minutes. While cooling, mix powdered sugar with heavy cream and drizzle over bars. Once cooled, cut and serve.

ONE ON ONE

ONE on

with Brandon Eckardt / cO-owner, Naked spirits

Must-Try Rums from Naked Spirits st. louis private reserve

"It has a fantastic caramel nose [and] little bit of a chocolate finish to it."

toasted nuts

WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO

How did you get into distilling? It’s been about

it’s a misunderstood spirit. Everybody thinks

PHOTOS COURTESY OF NAKED SPIRITS

seven years ago now. I started making rum in my

rum, you think beaches, party drinks, umbrellas,

garage. Made some good recipes, bad recipes,

but there are actually very nice, high-quality

[and] kind of everything in between, but it was a

rums that would compare to any bourbon you

hobby until about three years ago. My business

can find out there. So it’s such a versatile spirit.

Brandon Eckardt is the co-owner of Naked Spirits, a rum distillery that has been operating out of

"We infuse fresh toasted coconut into it. It’s 70 proof. It has an incredible toasted coconut flavor and mouthfeel, but it’s still high enough proof that it’s great in a cocktail."

partner is actually the general manager for a custom car shop. They had a show on TV, and

How does Naked Spirits differentiate itself

Brentwood since January 2020. In

right before the show hit the air, I labeled him

from other distillers? First things first, we

mocha

addition to classic aged rum and

a special bottle to commemorate his show

are the only rum-only distillery in Missouri. We

royale

starting. He walked around the party all night

are the only one that will only make rum. We

and he gave everybody samples. By the end of

bring all of our sugars in from a single source

the night the guys that own the car shop pulled

in Louisiana – it’s a farm that has their own

us off to the side and asked what we thought

refinery. We know the product and the quality

about starting a business. Now, it’s five good

of our sugar that we bring in every single time.

cinnamon-apple pie and bananas

friends that all came together to make rum, and

Rum can actually use secondary barrels, so

Foster. The distillery has developed

that’s all we do, is rum.

we’re allowed to use barrels that come from

spiced rum, the business offers a variety of creatively flavored rums, including watermelon lemonade,

other distilleries. We’ve got Blanton’s barrels,

a unique way to rapidly age its rum,

Why did you choose rum? That’s what he and I,

we’ve got Tawny port wine barrels from Mt.

so a rum that has been aged only

the two original partners, Charles [Crews] and

Pleasant Winery, and we’ve done collaborations

two weeks holds its own against

myself, that’s what we drink. That’s what we

with local breweries. We can do a whole lot

enjoy. Rum has a crazy history that most people

more in crafting a high-quality product without

don’t even realize exists. It was the first spirit

limitations in terms of how we experiment.

a rum that has been aged three to five years. “We figured out a way to make a very good product while we wait on a great product,” he says.

ever invented. Our country was basically built on it. For 200 years, we only had rum, so it was

Naked Spirits, 1002 Hanley Industrial Ct.,

before whiskey and bourbon and everything else

Brentwood, Missouri, 314.858.6722,

in this country. So the history is really deep, but

nakedspirits.com

"We use freshly roasted coffee from Dubuque Coffee here in town. And then we cold brew using rum instead of water, so our base product is actually a coffee made with rum, not coffee-flavored rum. Then we add some chocolate and some sweeteners to give it a mocha kick."

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H E A LT H Y A P P E T I T E / O N T R E N D / H O M E T O W N H I T S / M Y S T E R Y S H O P P E R / Q U I C K F I X

/ DINE & DRINK

McKelvey Vineyards

Hidden

GEMS of Missouri Wine Country WRITTEN BY AMANDA BRETZ | PHOTOS SUPPLIED

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Located in the picturesque Missouri River Valley, McKelvey Vineyards was founded by Patricia McKelvey in 2016. Although the property boasts a storied production history, operations were shuttered during Prohibition. McKelvey has since restored the grounds and farmhouse to its former glory, and groups can now stay at Steeple View Manor – a four-bed, four-bath farmhouse that accommodates up to eight guests. In addition to McKelvey’s Missouri and California wines, guests can enjoy bites like charcuterie boards, pizzas and pretzels. 8901 State Highway YY, Leslie, Missouri, mckelveyvineyards.com

Persimmon Ridge Family-owned and -operated for 13 years, Persimmon Ridge Winery is located atop a ridge in a peaceful country setting outside of Barnhart, Missouri. It grows Norton and Chardonel grapes onsite, and the wine list feature reds, whites, a blush wine and a dessert wine made from organic persimmons. Sangria and mulled wine are also available seasonally. The food menu includes wood-fired pizzas and a sausage and cheese plate, and guests may also bring their own food. 7272 Sheppard Drive, Barnhart, Missouri, persimmonridgewinery.com

Seven Springs Winery Located on 160 acres in the heart of Lake of the Ozarks, Seven Springs Winery has grown Norton and Vignoles grapes for more than a decade. The wine list includes Syrah, Chardonel and dessert wines. Guests can take in stunning views of the valley and the vineyards in the covered outdoor seating area, which includes a water feature. Explore two miles of hiking trails on the property, or hold your next event in the banquet room. In addition to wine, guests can enjoy a microbrew selection, and food options include burgers, wraps and Mediterranean-style pizzas. 846 Winery Hills Estate, Linn Creek, Missouri, sevenspringswinery.com

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H E A LT H Y A P P E T I T E / O N T R E N D / H O M E T O W N H I T S / M Y S T E R Y S H O P P E R / Q U I C K F I X

/ DINE & DRINK

Chanterelles STORY AND RECIPE BY SHANNON WEBER, WRITER AND RECIPE DEVELOPER, APERIODICTABLEBLOG.COM | PHOTOS BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

WHAT IS IT? The name “chanterelle” is actually an umbrella term for several species of wild mushrooms found in and around Missouri from mid-June through mid-August. You’ll know them by their distinctive hue, ranging from buttery yellow to deep peach, and funneled, flower-like shape. Chanterelles are at once fruity and peppery; sniff them, and you’ll swear you smell apricots. If you find them, use them fast: They’ll keep for up to 10 days refrigerated in a paper bag. WHAT DO I DO WITH THEM? Mushrooms don’t need a lot done to them, and chanterelles are no exception. Lightly sauté them with butter, oil and herbs and serve alongside grilled meats, in pasta, rice or grain dishes, in salads or folded into an omelet. Their eye-catching shape makes them an ideal topping for a tartine or garnish for wild mushroom soup. It’s the perfect time of year to get out there and see what you can find. Do your research before you go, however, do note that edible mushrooms almost always have imposters – “false chanterelles” – just waiting to make you sick. Talk to a forager or farmer who knows their way around mushroom species so you know what to look for and what to avoid. If you like the great indoors more, visit your farmers market, keep checking wellstocked market shelves for chanterelles all summer, or ask the produce manager to find out if they plan to stock them.

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CHANTERELLE CONSERVA YIELDS | 2 16-OZ JARS | The mushrooms will release their liquid into the oil as they cook and let you keep all that flavor intact. You’ll have more than enough liquid to cover; discard any extra. If you can’t get your hands on chanterelles for this, give oyster mushrooms a go: Their shape and flavor work well with the spices here. 2 ¼ 1 1

cups olive oil cup shallot, finely diced dried bay leaf tsp whole fennel seeds, dry-toasted until fragrant 3 - 4 sprigs fresh thyme 3 juniper berries, crushed fat pinch chile flakes, to taste 1 lb fresh chanterelle mushrooms, cleaned of debris, trimmed and torn into pieces ½ 2½

cup white wine vinegar tsp kosher salt

/ preparation / In a large saucepan over medium heat, heat oil, shallot, bay leaf, fennel seeds, thyme sprigs, juniper berries and chile flakes; use a thermometer to heat until temperature reaches 170˚F. Add mushrooms and set back over medium heat; gently toss mushrooms in oil mixture as you bring temperature back to around 170˚F. Once there, cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally; mushrooms will wilt into oil as you cook. Remove from heat and stir in vinegar and salt; let stand for 1 hour to cool. Remove and discard bay leaf. Divide mushrooms evenly into jars and pour oil mixture over top to cover; seal and refrigerate until ready to use. Keep in fridge for up to 1 month or freeze for up to 6 months. / to serve / Serve over grilled steak or chicken or alongside fried eggs; chop and whip into butter or goat cheese; or use as a crostini topper.

ONE ON ONE

ONE on

Randy Boyce / bar manager, the blue duck

Must-Try Cocktails at The Blue Duck

parking lot push-ups

This boozeless cocktail is one of Boyce’s favorites. Sip on BARE zero-proof whiskey, aperitif syrup, coffee, maple, lemon and cardamom bitters.

WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO / PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE BLUE DUCK

Randy Boyce has been in the restaurant industry since he was 15. He worked at the original The Blue Duck in Washington, Missouri, and Square One Brewery & Distillery in St. Louis before moving to Chicago to train and gain more bartending experience. After stints in Chicago and Washington D.C., Boyce moved back to St. Louis. “At that time, I was trying to get out of the scene because I had been battling some issues with alcoholism. I’m actually five years sober now,” he says. He was serving part-time at The Blue Duck in Maplewood when he noticed that the bar program was underdeveloped. Boyce convinced the owners to allow him to manage the bar, and four years later, he’s still keeping the beverage menu at The Blue Duck fresh and exciting.

What has been your approach to the bar program at The Blue Duck? We knew that we wanted the bar to be just as much of a star in the restaurant as the food. So we decided that we wanted to take a more craft cocktail approach with more of a focus on whiskey. What’s your favorite craft cocktail on the menu at the moment? I think the Harold’s Nightcap is probably my favorite. I’m a big fan of Koval – that barrel-aged gin that’s in there. I’m a big fan of Bigallet China China – that spiced orange liqueur that’s in there. [When I first made it, it was because] I needed to figure out one more cocktail; I needed a gin cocktail. I just kind of threw something together real quick, and we all decided, “Yeah, this is phenomenal.” Somebody

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described it to me one time as, “It tastes like the feeling of a hug.” What would you highlight about the beverage menu at The Blue Duck? Everything that we do in the kitchen here is completely from scratch, so I tried to take that same approach at the bar. Everything is fresh; our lime and lemon juice is always squeezed fresh. We make all of our own syrups. Many of our liqueurs that we use in a good amount of our cocktails are made from scratch too. What’s your most controversial drink opinion? Vodka is absolutely pointless. There is no cocktail on Earth that is made with vodka that is not made better with gin. Vodka by definition has to be colorless, odorless [and] flavorless. Obviously,

there’s flavored vodka, and that’s a whole other thing unto itself. Gin, though – gin’s got this ability to pair well with everything. I always tell people who tell me that they don’t like gin that it’s like saying you don’t like soup. It’s not that you don’t like soup; it’s just you haven’t had the right soup. I think that’s the same way with gin. There are gins that I’ve got here that are super floral. I’ve got gins back here that taste like you’re biting into a cedar tree. So, if you’re making a Cosmo or something like that, and you’re using vodka, if you use a citrusy gin instead of that vodka, it’s going to be leagues better. The only purpose of vodka is to just add booze to something, but it does nothing for flavor. The Blue Duck, 2661 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, Missouri, 314.769.9940, blueduckstl.com

isle of capri pants

For a refreshing, bubbly drink, order the Isle of Capri Pants. It includes 1220 Encrypted Vodka, grapefruit, Contratto bitter, housemade hibiscus liqueur, lime, honey and Prosecco.

harold’s nightcap

One of the bar’s most popular drinks, Harold’s Nightcap elevates the classic gin cocktail with Koval Barreled gin, Calvados, Bigallet China China, house sweet vermouth blend, house bitters and cinnamon.

PRO PICKS

pro Shaker Tin with Pint Glass “A lot of shaker tins come with a tiny stainless steel lid; those are prone to leak, so I would not suggest those. You'll see mixologists and bartenders use our shaker tin with a pint glass. You tap the glass into the shaker tin, and it has an air-tight seal. It’s a much more effective way, and it also holds more volume. You can make three or four cocktails at a time instead of just two.”

Mark Gray owner, the famous bar

Muddler

STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHARLOTTE RENNER

The Famous Bar on Chippewa Street is known around South City for its award-winning Martinis and Bloody Marys, as well as its timeless, inviting atmosphere – complete with Art Deco features dating back to the 1930s. The person behind the

Double Cocktail Jigger “This will give you accuracy in your pours and your cocktails. You want them all to taste the same and to have the right ratios.”

bar – both literally and figuratively – is Mark Gray, a seasoned bartending pro with 40 years of experience who opened The Famous Bar in 1997. Creating inventive drinks for the bar is Gray’s favorite part about the business, and it’s a hobby you can explore in your own home – with the right tools. Gray recommends the following five essentials for your own at-home bar.

Bar Spoon “The bevel helps you stir when you’re just stirring the drinks instead of shaking it. They’re also used to layer your layering ingredients. For our famous Lip Licker shot at The Famous Bar, we use the upside-down spoon to create a layer for each ingredient.”

“These are just used for pulverizing or extracting oils out of the rinds of fruit and things like basil or mint.”

Strainer “The strainer that comes with a standard mixing tin will get most of the bits but will still let some things pass through. But if you’re muddling fresh fruit, limes, sage and basil, [for instance], after you shake it, you’ll want to use a final screen to get out the little bits.”

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H E A LT H Y A P P E T I T E / O N T R E N D / H O M E T O W N H I T S / M Y S T E R Y S H O P P E R / Q U I C K F I X

Honey Bee Tea WRITTEN BY KASEY CARLSON | PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

With more than 30 drinks available and more than 15 toppings to choose from, you might have a hard time picking your preferred boba tea at Honey Bee Tea, but you’re bound to end up with something delicious. This cafe uses teas sourced from Taiwan, organic milk and fresh, organic fruit, purée and jam in its beverages. Need to pair your selection with a bite? This shop also specializes in delicately layered crepe cakes and Hong Kong-style egg waffles perfectly crafted to pair with the tea of your choice. Honey Bee Tea, 429 Lafayette Ctr. Drive, Manchester, Missouri, 636.220.8316, honeybt.com

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/ DINE & DRINK

Cleaver and Cocktail WRITTEN BY KASEY CARLSON | PHOTOS BY SEAN LOCKE

From the team behind The Block in Webster Groves comes Cleaver and Cocktail – your new go-to spot to find high-quality steak in West County. The secret to this restaurant’s steaks is actually no secret at all; you can get a peek at this joint’s dry-aging chamber through a window right in the main dining room. Just looking to stop in for a drink? As implied by its name, the restaurant offers a variety of classic cocktails, ranging from sippers, such as a Vesper Martini or an Old Fashioned, to more refreshing choices, such as a Mojito or French 75. Cleaver & Cocktail, 13360 Clayton Road, Suite 104, Town & Country, Missouri, 314.530.9700, cleaverandcocktail.com

Menya Rui WRITTEN BY KASEY CARLSON | PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

Steven Pursley spent three years honing his ramen-making skills at noodle shops in his mother’s home prefecture of Okinawa, Japan, and now, you can find the fruits of his labor at his very own brick-and-mortar spot on Hampton. While you can expect steaming bowls of pork or chicken broth loaded with traditional toppings, Pursley also brings some less well-known ramen options to the table. The tsukemen (dipped) ramen, for example, is a cold-rinsed thick noodle dish served aside concentrated scallop aroma dipping broth and topped with pork shoulder chasyu, menma, scallions and nori. Menya Rui, 3454 Hampton Ave., South Hampton, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.601.3524

a u gu s t 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

ONE ON ONE

ONE on

with Josh Miller / Brewer, Narrow Gauge Brewing Co.

Must-Try Beers from Narrow Gauge Brewing Co.

ddh sparkle motion

This pale ale is double dry-hopped with Galaxy and Citra hops.

WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO / PHOTOS COURTESY OF NARROW GAUGE BREWING CO.

Josh Miller got his start in beer in 2014 when he started homebrewing with a coworker. He always enjoyed drinking craft beers and IPAs and decided to try his hand at making his own. Miller eventually co-founded Good News Brewing Co. and served as head brewer there. In 2020, he transitioned to working as a brewer for Narrow Gauge Brewing Co. The brewery offers a variety of beers, from pilsners to stouts to IPAs, all handcrafted by Miller and the brewing team. What about beer and brewing appealed to you?

Jeff [Hardesty] and I did when I was still at Good

pale ales. Our Sparkle Motion Pale Ale is even on

I was really into drinking craft beer before I was

News was called Time Turn Fragile. We’ve brewed

the lower bitterness side and very drinkable for

brewing it. Just the differences from your typical

that a second time now that I’m here [at Narrow

someone who is just getting into craft beer.

macro-loggers. Craft ale is what really drew me

Gauge Brewing Co.]. FloMO Pils is another

in, like IPAs. The hoppiness, the bitterness and

Pilsner and a favorite that we brew.

then just the vast difference between hops really inspired me to start homebrewing.

Narrow Gauge? Jeff and Jake [Senn], my two coworkers, are probably the best part of the job

they like beer and don’t know how to get into it?

– just being able to work with them, and come up

What are some of your favorite beers Narrow

Start with lager. What we do from the craft side

with a product from start to finish and being able

Gauge makes? DDH Sparkle Motion was one

is use more premium ingredients, so you have

to see it go from just an idea in your head to a

of my all-time favorites even before I was

a much more flavorful product, and it doesn’t

finished product in the glass.

onboarded here, and we started doing a little

have to be bitter like an IPA. A lot of people think

bit more in-house collaboration. We’ve brewed

all craft beers are super dark, heavy stouts,

Narrow Gauge Brewing, 1595 US-67 Florissant,

some craft lagers that I’ve really loved. The craft

[but] there’s definitely some in-between when

Missouri, 314.501.6108, narrowgaugestl.shop

lager collaboration that [Narrow Gauge founder]

it comes to craft light lager or even pilsners and

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If you enjoy traditional pilsners, try this Czech-style brew that is aged for nearly three months and fermented in a Missouri Oak foeder.

What do you enjoy most about working at

What would you say to people who aren’t sure if

foeder flomo pils

climbing stairs

No brewery’s lineup is complete without a stout. Climbing Stairs is a collaboration with 3 Sons Brewing that is aged on toasted coconut and vanillin.

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RESTAURANTS

R E S TA U R A N T S R E V I E W E D

REVIEWED

From St. Louis Post-Dispatch Restaurant Critic Ian Froeb

A brisket platter at Shorty's Smokehouse

Blackened swordfish at 801 Local

Pie Hard Pizzeria

Shorty’s Smokehouse

801 Local

Michael Pastor’s cooking made the food truck he and his wife, Megan, started in 2017 a serious contender among both the region’s mobile kitchens and pizzerias. His pizza is wood-fired but not Neapolitan. The brick-and-mortar Pie Hard opened in late May 2020. The space, a former Subway, is cozy, with the wood-fired oven occupying the center of the dining room.

Anthony Hassler and Brandon Bauza opened Shorty’s Smokehouse in February 2019. Hassler calls Shorty’s barbecue “Monroe County style,” and the restaurant moves with a swagger you notice only in its wake. Hickory is the wood used with all of the meats here. It imbues the beef with a smokiness ever so slightly more intense than central Texans’ preferred post-oak would, and the brisket is no less compelling for the adaptation.

801 Local, which opened at the end of February just south of Plaza Frontenac, is the latest restaurant from the Des Moines, Iowa-based group behind 801 Chophouse and 801 Fish in Clayton. The new venture aims to fill the generic role of a “neighborhood establishment,” to quote its website – albeit a “classy” and “upscale” one. In other words, 801 Local is neither as formal nor as breathtakingly expensive as its steakhouse and seafood siblings.

Where Pie Hard Pizzeria, 122 W. Mill Street, Waterloo, Illinois More info 618-939-4273; piehardpizza.com • Menu Pizza, sandwiches and Sunday brunch • Hours Lunch and dinner Wednesday-Saturday, brunch Sunday (closed MondayTuesday)

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Where Shorty’s Smokehouse, 121 S. Main Street, Waterloo, Illinois • More info 618-939-7665; shortyssmokehouse.com Menu Barbecue, including brisket, pulled pork and ribs • Hours Lunch and dinner Wednesday-Sunday, smash-burger lunch Monday (closed Tuesday)

Where 801 Local, 2021 S. Lindbergh Blvd., Frontenac, Missouri More info 314-860-4400; 801local.com Menu Upscale contemporary fare • Hours Lunch and dinner daily

PHOTOS BY HILLARY LEVIN, ST. LOUIS POST-DISPATCH

The McClane pizza at Pie Hard Pizzeria

ARD

2 022 EA E D E R C H OI C S

FEAST IS PROUD TO CELEBRATE THE LOCAL CHEFS, RESTAURANTS AND BUSINESSES THAT ARE HELPING MAKE ST. LOUIS A NATIONALLY RECOGNIZED CULINARY DESTINATION. Our annual readers’ choice awards honor both classic St. Louis institutions and new spots that are changing the local food scene. All of our winners are experts who have truly honed their craft. We hope you’ll join us in raising a glass to the area’s amazing chefs, restaurants, makers, entrepreneurs, distillers, brewers and producers. a u gu s t 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com

best Chef

ARD

CRAIG RIVARD

E A 2022 C E D E R C H OI S

WRITTEN BY KASEY CARLSON | PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

hen Little Fox was preparing to open in 2019, owners Craig and Mowgli Rivard were aiming for the restaurant to feature an American menu with Italian and Spanish accents. But more than that, they hoped the spot would be a modern neighborhood restaurant that could serve either as a spot for drinks with friends or a date night spot with an extravagant meal. A couple of years and a whole pandemic shut-down later, Craig Rivard has been able to

maintain that vibe with the seasonal fare that he creates in his kitchen. “I work with some brokers for farmers near St. Louis like Eat Here and Farmstead Foods, so I usually start seeing what is becoming available from the farmers, and I start making menu changes from there.” With that ethos, the menu is constantly changing based on what is fresh. That evolving rotation might include anything from a spring vegetable ragù with tilefish to a pan-roasted cod with carrot purée and farro – and it has been exciting enough to not only catch attention in town but also nationally with a nod from The New York Times late last year. “It’s been incredibly flattering and so exciting to have people recognize us for what we’re doing, and we’re really proud of what we’re doing,” he says. Little Fox, 2800 Shenandoah Ave., Fox Park, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.553.9456, littlefoxstl.com

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Celebrating our

Celebrating Our... ARD

E A 2 02 2 C E D E R C H OI S'

Winners

BURGER

FRIED CHICKEN

PIZZA

TOASTED RAVIOLI

HI-POINTE DRIVE-IN

GRACE MEAT + THREE

IMO’S PIZZA

ANTHONINO’S TAVERNA

Runner-Up: Mac’s Local Eats

Runner-Up: Hodak’s

Runner-Up: Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria

Runner-Up: Charlie Gitto’s On the Hill

Year of the

CRAIG RIVARD LITTLE FOX

Runner-Up: Evan Buchholz, Cleveland-Heath

SANDWICH SHOP

BUTCHER SHOP

FOOD TRUCK

INDIAN

NEW RESTAURANT

BLUES CITY DELI

BOLYARD’S MEAT & PROVISIONS

BALKAN TREAT BOX

HIMALAYAN YETI

LATTE LOUNGE + HG EATERY

Runner-Up: Gioia’s Deli

Runner-Up: Kenrick’s Meat & Catering

Runner-Up: Seoul Taco

Runner-Up: Everest Café & Bar

Runner-Up: LaJoy’s Coffee Cafe

CONFECTIONER

BAKE SHOP

ICE CREAM & CUSTARD

DONUT SHOP

PASTRY CHEF

CROWN CANDY KITCHEN

NATHANIEL REID BAKERY

TED DREWES

DONUT DRIVE-IN

LIA HOLTER, MADE. BY LIA

Runner-Up: Nathaniel Reid Bakery

Runner-Up: Made. By Lia

Runner-Up: Clementine’s Naughty & Nice Creamery

Runner-Up: Old Town Donuts

Runner-Up: Russell Ping, Russell’s

SERVICE

BAR PROGRAM: WINE

BAR PROGRAM: COCKTAILS

BAR PROGRAM: BEER

COFFEE ROASTER

LITTLE FOX AND OLIVE + OAK

SASHA’S WINE BAR

PLANTER’S HOUSE

CHILLAX TAP AND CO.

KALDI’S COFFEE ROASTING CO.

Runner-Up: Annie Gunn’s

Runner-Up: Little Fox

Runner-Up: Frazer’s and Olive + Oak

Runner-Up: Side Project Cellar

Runner-Up: Sump Coffee

WINERY

DISTILLERY

BREWERY

BARTENDER

COFFEE SHOP

LACHANCE VINEYARDS

PINCKNEY BEND DISTILLERY

4 HANDS BREWING CO.

BRIDGER DALE, LITTLE FOX

KALDI’S COFFEE ROASTING CO.

Runner-Up: Chandler Hill

Runner-Up: StilL 630

Runner-Up:

Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.

Ted Kilgore, Planter’s House and Jordan Goodman, Salt + Smoke

Runner-Up: Latte Lounge

CATERER

ARTISAN FOOD SHOP

KITCHEN/BAR STORE

STORE: WINE SELECTION

STORE: BEER SELECTION

BUTLER’S PANTRY

DIGREGORIO’S MARKET

BERTARELLI CUTLERY

TOTAL WINE & MORE

Runner-Up: Hollyberry Catering

Runner-Up: Parker’s Table

Runner-Up: Intoxicology

Runner-Up: The Wine & Cheese Place

Runner-Up: Randall’s Wine & Spirits

BARBECUE

VEGETARIAN-ONLY

SEAFOOD

STEAKHOUSE

DINER

SUGARFIRE SMOKE HOUSE

LULU’S LOCAL EATERY

PEACEMAKER LOBSTER & CRAB CO.

TUCKER’S PLACE

SOUTHWEST DINER

Runner-Up: Salt + Smoke

Runner-Up: SweetArt

Runner-Up: Broadway Oyster Bar

Runner-Up: Annie Gunn’s and Twisted Tree Steakhouse

Runner-Up: Courtesy Diner

FAST-CASUAL

HAPPY HOUR

BRUNCH

OUTDOOR DINING

FINE/CONTEMPORARY DINING

BALKAN TREAT BOX

THREE KINGS PUBLIC HOUSE

THE SHACK

JOHN D. MCGURK’S

SIDNEY STREET CAFE

Runner-Up: Hi-Pointe Drive-In

Runner-Up: Rosalita’s Cantina

Runner-Up: Russell’s Café

Runner-Up: The Boathouse in Forest Park

Runner-Up: Annie Gunn’s

CHINESE

VIETNAMESE

JAPANESE

KOREAN

THAI

CORNER 17

MAI LEE

INDO

SEOUL TACO

THE KING AND I RESTAURANT

Runner-Up: Drunken Fish

Runner-Up: Tiny Chef

Runner-Up: Chao Baan

CHEESEMAKER

BREAD BAKER

CHARCUTERIE MAKER

BAETJE FARMS

UNION LOAFERS

VOLPI FOODS

Runner-Up: Marcoot Jersey Creamery

Runner-Up: Vitale’s Bakery

Runner-Up: Salume Beddu

Runner-Up: Lu Lu Seafood & Dim Sum

MEXICAN

PUEBLO SOLIS Runner-Up: Mission Taco Joint

Runner-Up: DD Mau and Lemongrass

Honorary mention: Pho Grand was chosen to be honored by readers, but sadly shuttered before press. Congratulations to its former staff and ownership!

ITALIAN

CUNETTO HOUSE OF PASTA AND TRATTORIA MARCELLA Runner-Up: Zia’s

best New Restaurant

ARD

ST. LOUIS. LATTE LOUNGE + HG EATERY

E A 2022 C E D E R C H OI S

WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO | PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

yshaun Harvey and her father, Larry Green, have created a new hotspot in downtown St. Louis. Latte Lounge + HG Eatery has quickly become a must-try spot for brunch and coffee enthusiasts alike. “It’s been absolutely phenomenal,” Harvey says. “We can’t even put into words how good everything has been. The community has been super supportive.” The spot has found a devoted following for its latte flights, a sampler offering that includes five different flavors; it was one of

the first places in St. Louis to offer the unique experience. Hungry diners come for dishes such as the Cajun shrimp and grits and chicken and waffles. One of the most popular dishes – lamb and eggs – is all thanks to Green. “He really loves lamb – and lamb that’s marinated and seasoned well – and that was one thing that he had to have on the menu,” Harvey says. “It’s, again adding that spice and going that nontraditional route to provide St. Louis with something that we don’t really have here.” In addition to managing the Florissant and St. Louis locations, Harvey also aims to keep expanding to other cities or even other states. However, she and her father are also making sure to take the time to enjoy and appreciate their current success. “We are kind of basking in all of that we have been blessed with these last six months,” she says. Latte Lounge + HG Eatery, 2617 Washington Ave., Suite A, Downtown, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.833.3087, llhgstl.com

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best Mixologist

ARD

BRIDGER DALE

E A 2022 C E D E R C H OI S

WRITTEN BY KASEY CARLSON | PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

ittle Fox is well-known for its selection of natural wines, but if you take a seat at the bar, you’ll be impressed by its cocktail menu as well. The program is led by Bridger Dale, who was previously bar supervisor at Cinder House before making the jump to the Fox Park restaurant. When it comes to the cocktail program at Little Fox, Dale tries to find the balance between choice and simplicity. “We try to give a wide variety of drinks, but in general, I try not to overcomplicate anything,”

he says. The drinks tend to lean on the dry side and avoid anything too cloyingly sweet, but each concoction also tends to have a single focus. “Usually, with any drink on the menu, I try to build it around a certain ingredient or an idea and just kind of go from there and see where I end up,” he explains. For example, his Pink Negroni gets a beautiful pink hue from the combination of grapefruit gin, rose vermouth and Salers. A big part of what makes the bar program at Little Fox strong is not only the drinks, but also making sure folks make the right choices for themselves. “We definitely try to guide everybody and make sure they have the best experience they can.” Little Fox, 2800 Shenandoah Ave., Fox Park, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.553.9456, littlefoxstl.com

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PROMOTIONAL

HONOREE ARD

E A 2022 C E D E R C H OI S'

DiGregorio’s Italian Market DiGregorio’s Italian Market is your store for authentic Italian specialty foods in St. Louis. Proudly family-owned and operated, located in “The Hill” neighborhood since 1971. Offering a large variety of imported wine, cheese and olive oil, stuffed pastas, olives, homemade sauces, sausages, and everything you need for your charcuterie board. 5200 Daggett Ave., 314-776-1062, digregoriofoods.com

DRUNKEN FISH Drunken Fish has been one of St. Louis’ favorite dining experiences for almost 20 years. They offer a large selection of sensational sushi and wide variety of Japanese cuisine, while the drink menu boasts cocktails, wine, sakes, and local beers. Drunken Fish is also opening their newest location in Edwardsville, Illinois in early 2023! 1 Maryland Plaza, 314-367-4222; 639 W. Port Plaza, 314-275-8300; drunkenfish.com

LaChance Vineyards In 2015, Harold Hamby opened LaChance Vineyards in DeSoto, Missouri, with a unique vision. The 13 acres of vines are dedicated to three grape varietals created from a Norton-Cabernet Sauvignon cross: Crimson Cabernet, Cabernet Dore’, and White Norton (a grape grown only in DeSoto). Share a bottle of Hamby’s high quality wines at LaChance’s DeSoto or Kimmswick location. 12237 Peter Moore Lane, 636-586-2777; 6035 2nd Street, 636-223-0453; lachancevineyards.com

Wood Hat Spirits Producing quality spirits by making wise grain choices, distilling with knowledge and pride and eco-friendly methods is what Wood Hat Spirits is all about. “As an American and a citizen of the world, I try to tread lightly on the earth. It matters that we don’t affect our environment or our fellow beings in a negative way,” states Gary Hinegardner, owner. Wood Hat Spirits genuinely appreciates readers’ support in the FEAST50 contest.

Katie’s Pizza and Pasta Katie’s Pizza and Pasta is a family-owned and operated artisan Italian restaurant and bar, focused on the modern interpretation of regional Italian cuisine using local, seasonal ingredients. Katie’s has received numerous awards including St. Louis Mag A-List awards for Best Chef, Best Pizza, Best To Go, and runner-up in Best Happy Hour and Feast 50’s Best Pizza. Kate’s also has a frozen line that is available for purchase in 160 stores and is expanding to include more frozen pizza and pasta items. Katie’s Pizza will add its third location in Downtown St. Louis in Ballpark Village in early 2023! 9568 Manchester Road, 314-942-6555; 14171 Clayton Road, 636-220-3238; katiespizzaandpasta.com

489 Booneslick Road, 573-835-1000, woodhatspirits.com a u gu s t 2 02 2 / feastmagazine.com feastmagazine.com / a u gu s t 2 02 2

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best Pastry Chef

ARD

LIA HOLTER

E A 2022 C E D E R C H OI S

WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO | PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

ia Holter of Made. by Lia is proud of the support and following her business has garnered since opening its doors in Florissant in 2020. The bakery is known for its coffee, scratch-made and Instagram-worthy pastries and customizable wedding cakes. For Holter, the focus has always been on quality ingredients that are prepared well. “We make all of our fillings, all of our caramels, everything from scratch, which I think is unique to some places,” Holter says. “People can

really tell when they taste one of our items that it is made fresh.” Signature items include macarons, gluten-free lemon blueberry scones, vegan cinnamon sugar donuts, cherry strudel and chocolate espresso donuts. Each wedding cake has Holter’s signature creative spin, whether it’s flowers created with a special icing tool or hand-painted feathered decoration. When it comes to the future, for Holter, the sky’s the limit. “My brain is always thinking and dreaming of what’s next,” she says. “I’d love to have my own cookbooks. I’d like to expand and work with more local vendors and find a local farmer to work with.” For now, Holter says she will make sure that every baked good her customers enjoy is flavorful, beautiful and creative. Made. by Lia, 610 Rue St. Francois, Florissant, Missouri, 314.551.2383, madebylia.com

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best Service

ARD

LITTLE FOX and OLIVE + OAK [ TIED ]

E A 2022 C E D E R C H OI S

WRITTEN BY KASEY CARLSON | PHOTO BY MABEL SUEN

ittle Fox opened in St. Louis’ Fox Park neighborhood in December 2019 – just three months before the restaurant industry was turned on its head. So, when the restaurant was able to reopen its indoor dining services to guests in April

2021, it felt almost as though it was the first time the Little Fox team was presenting their full concept to the people of St. Louis. They did so to much acclaim and even received a nod as one of the 50 best restaurants in the country from The New York Times. Being able to achieve and maintain a high level of service amid constantly changing circumstances surrounding COVID-19, co-owner Mowgli Rivard says, has been a team effort of the staff, herself, general manager Casey Dinkelaker and wine and front-of-house manager Beckie Lambson. Their consistent goal is simply to make sure that guests have the best time possible. “You want it to be the experience you didn’t know you needed,” Rivard says. “You just walk out like, ‘I don’t know exactly what just happened, but I just feel good and satisfied and taken care of,’ but nothing is overbearing, and it’s all very genuine. And I hope that the guests can see how much this whole staff enjoys being there and enjoys each other.” Little Fox, 2800 Shenandoah Ave., Fox Park, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.553.9456, littlefoxstl.com

WRITTEN BY KASEY CARLSON | PHOTOS BY JACKLYN MEYER

n and around the St. Louis area, Olive + Oak has become a restaurant name synonymous with service. Even with the complications caused by the pandemic and additional considerations due to the fact that the restaurant is now

a flagship for its own restaurant group, the team still takes special care of every diner who comes through its doors in Webster Groves. Sometimes that means making sacrifices, such as being unable to open up a seating section or the patio because of staffing shortages. But in the end, it all comes down to creating the best experience for guests – and this is definitely the type of place where the staff enjoys taking care of people. “It’s more than the food,” co-owner Mark Hinkle says. “We know Jesse [Mendica] and her team’s putting out great food, and it’s our job in the front-of-house to do things that elevate that through service and hospitality – all of those premises that we were founded on as far as service goes. We’re just taking care of guests and treating people kindly. Really, really living hospitality inside the restaurant every day is critical to what we do and is as important to that guest experience as the food is.” Olive + Oak, 216 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, Missouri, 314.736.1370, oliveandoak.oohosp.com

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One resource to create all your #NothingOrdinary

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kitchen & bath design • construction • interiors Schedule your free design consultation today at 314.645.6545 or karrbick.com feastmagazine.com / a u gu s t 2 02 2

BEST BREWERY ARD

E A 2022 C E D E R C H OI S'

4 HANDS BREWING CO. WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO PHOTO COURTESY OF 4 HANDS BREWING CO.

This year marks the third year in a row that our reader’s poll has crowned 4 Hands Brewing Co. the best brewery in St. Louis. One of its signature beers, City Wide, is more than just an American pale ale – $1 from every case sold benefits a different local community nonprofit each quarter. The Imperial Chocolate Milk Stout, brewed annually since 2012, is arguably the brewery’s most popular seasonal beer. From IPAs to pilsners to hard seltzers, 4 Hands carefully crafts each of its products to ensure they always deliver on flavor. WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO | PHOTO COURTESY OF LACHANCE VINEYARDS

4 Hands Brewing Co., 1220 S. 8th St., St. Louis, Missouri, 314.436.1559, 4handsbrewery.com

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noboleis vineyards Family Owned, Family Grown. 100 hemsath road, augusta, mo, 63332 noboleisvineyards.com

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BEST WINERY

L ACHANCE VINEYARDS

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E A 2022 C E D E R C H OI S'

LaChance Vineyards focuses on giving guests their ideal experience. “You can come and be right next to the music and be on the dance floor, or you can be underneath the shaded trees by the Greek statue fountain or over by the koi pond,” says Mark Russell, LaChance’s marketing director. “There’s just different kinds of moods that you can enjoy while you’re there.” In addition to the scenic location and atmosphere, LaChance also prides itself on producing 32 high-quality wines. Some of Russell’s favorites include the Crimson Caberenet, a dry red, and the Carbernet Dore, a dry white. With options that range from super sweet to deliciously dry, you’re bound to find a new favorite wine at LaChance. LaChance Vineyards, 12237 Peter Moore Lane, De Soto, Missouri, 636.586.2777, lachancevineyards.com

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BEST FOOD TRUCK ARD

E A 2022 C E D E R C H OI S'

BALK AN TREAT BOX WRITTEN BY CHARLOTTE RENNER PHOTO COURTESY OF BALKAN TREAT BOX

Although they’ve expanded to a brick-and-mortar location in Webster Groves, this booming Bosnian restaurant hasn’t left behind what made it so popular to begin with: the Balkan Treat Box food truck. You can find the food truck at various events around town (follow its Instagram for updates), or you can hire the Balkan Treat Box food truck for a private event. The food truck’s menu includes three restaurant staples – ćevapi, pide and döner. All of these dishes include handmade bread and meats baked in a custom wood-fired stove inside the food truck. “[The food truck] is kind of how people get to know us a little bit, and that’s why they come into the restaurant,” co-owner Erna Nalic says. Balkan Treat Box, 314.733.5700, balkantreatbox.com

Micah Feliciano and Romy Feliciano-Nalic, Loryn, Edo, Erna and Emir Nalic.

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Come For The Experience, Stay For The Wine 275 Röbller Vineyard Road | New Haven, MO 63068 Phone: 573-237-3986 | Robllerwines.com

BEST HAPPY HOUR ARD

E A 2022 C E D E R C H OI S'

THREE KINGS PUBLIC HOUSE

WRITTEN BY CHARLOTTE RENNER

At Three Kings Public House, from 4 to 6pm Monday through Friday, you’ll find the deals that made it the readers’ choice for this year’s Best Happy Hour category. Score $2 off wine by the glass, 50% off most drafts, $4.99 well drinks and $6.99 select appetizers. “The key to our happy hour that I think everyone loves is we do half off all our draft beers,” managing partner Derek Deaver says. “We have between 20 and 30 different beers on tap at all locations. We’re always removing different beers and trying new things.” Another big plus? There are numerous locations where you can enjoy these bargains: the Delmar Loop, South County, Des Peres and Terminal 2 at Lambert International Airport. Three Kings Public House, multiple locations, threekingspub.com

Congratulations to the 2022 Feast 50 Winners & Nominees!

31 YEARS SERVING OUR COMMUNITY From silverware to walk in coolers and everything in between. Call for Personal Service (636)-244-2378

St. Charles Restaurant Equipment is excited and proud to introduce Skip Strode as an independent consultant for any of your restaurant needs. Skip has been in the hospitality industry for over 46 years, and is available to help with anything from new concepts, to existing restaurant ideas. Let us provide your Kitchen Solution – We LIVE for this ! 4024 N Service Rd, St Peters, MO 63376

www.stcharlesrestaurantequipment.com feastmagazine.com / a u gu s t 2 02 2

BEST DISTILLERY ARD

E A 2022 C E D E R C H OI S'

PINCKNEY BEND DISTILLERY

WRITTEN BY KASEY CARLSON | PHOTO BY AARON OTTIS

Nestled near the Missouri River in New Haven, Missouri, Pinckney Bend Distillery launched in 2011 with its own gin, but its footprint has grown significantly in the decade since. Along with its signature gin – available in a classic American style, hibiscus, navy-strength or cask-finished – it also produces vodka, whiskey and even its own tonic syrup to craft the perfect drink. Looking for something on the go? Pinckney Bend also offers a canned gin and tonic and the Hibhound – its spin on a classic Greyhound. You can find the distillery’s products across Missouri, but you can also stop by its gift shop and patio to pick up the products directly from the source. Pinckney Bend Distillery, 1101 Miller St., New Haven, Missouri, 573.237.5559, pinckneybend.com

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Always A Great Choice! 4830 PIONEER RD • HILLSBORO, MO • 636.797.8686 • WILDSUN.COM

BEST CONTEMPORARY DINING ARD

E A 2022 C E D E R C H OI S'

SIDNEY STREET CAFE WRITTEN BY KASEY CARLSON PHOTO COURTESY OF SIDNEY STREET CAFE

Some readers may be surprised that a restaurant that has been around for nearly two decades would still be top-of-mind enough to take home the title of best contemporary dining, but anyone who has enjoyed a meal at the acclaimed Sidney Street Cafe knows that the restaurant’s ability to continually keep itself fresh even in tumultuous times is nothing short of extraordinary. Even if you’ve been before, you’re always likely to find something new on the menu – like fun pastas that were added for the first time just before the pandemic or a steak tartar dish that is a play on a Philly cheesesteak. “I think, at the end of the day, you surround yourself hopefully with like-minded people, and everyone’s goal is to make things better,” chef-owner Kevin Nashan says. “I think if you’re constantly doing that, you’re always pretty much gonna head in a direction that’s positive.” Sidney Street Cafe, 2000 Sidney St., St. Louis, Missouri, 314.771.5777, sidneystreetcafestl.com

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BEST BAKERY ARD

E A 2022 C E D E R C H OI S'

NATHANIEL REID BAKERY WRITTEN BY CHARLOTTE RENNER PHOTO BY ERIK KELLAR

After graduating with a Grand Diploma in Culinary and Pastry Arts from Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, France, Nathaniel Reid made a name for himself directing pastry kitchens that were of the highest regard and achieved numerous accolades along the way. In 2016, St. Louis was blessed with Reid’s return to his home state of Missouri, where he opened Nathaniel Reid Bakery. There, you’ll find exquisitely made pastries, baked goods, macarons and other sweet treats. Reid’s current favorite is the Margo macaron, which features strawberry Chantilly cream and raspberry-lemon verbena confit. “If you just need a pick-me-up one day, or you got a promotion and you’re celebrating, or you’re having some friends over for a Friday night party, that’s a great way to enjoy it,” Reid says. Nathaniel Reid Bakery, 11243 Manchester Road, Kirkwood, Missouri, 314.858.1019, nrbakery.com

Come visit us for some of the best burgers, beer, and atmosphere in town!

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BEST OUTDOOR DINING ARD

E A 2022 C E D E R C H OI S'

JOHN D. MCGURK'S IRISH PUB

STORY AND PHOTO BY CHARLOTTE RENNER

McGurk’s in Soulard is a lively Irish pub with an incredible 15,000- square-foot outdoor patio complete with a lush garden, sparkling fountains and three outdoor bars to boot. With a menu full of traditional Irish grub and free live Irish music Tuesday through Sunday, you might just forget that the expansive, tranquil outdoor patio at which you’re sitting is in St. Louis – and that’s part of the magic. National Geographic even named McGurk’s one of America’s Most Authentic Irish Pubs. You can try traditional Irish meals such as bangers and mash, corned beef and cabbage or Guinness stew, and of course, Irish drinks such as Tullamore D.E.W. whiskey or an Irish Red beer. It’s a great place to hang out with friends or bring your family for dinner and a show. John D. McGurk’s, 1200 Russell Blvd., Soulard, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.776.8309, mcgurks.com

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Tell us what you think!

Give us your thoughts about Feast Magazine and be entered to win a $250 Visa Gift Card. Take the survey: feastmagazine.com/Survey See complete rules at: www.feastmagazine.com/SurveyRules

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THE

CREW WRITTEN BY CHARLOTTE RENNER

Class photos courtesy of Saint Louis University’s Brewing Science and Operations

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BEER ENTHUSIASTS LEARN THE INS AND OUTS OF THE BREWING BIZ THROUGH SAINT LOUIS UNIVERSITY’S BREWING SCIENCE AND OPERATIONS PROGRAM. Thirty years ago, there were only a few hundred breweries in the United States, according to the Brewers Association. Today, there are more than 9,000 throughout the country – 75 of which are based in the St. Louis area alone. Saint Louis University’s Brewing Science and Operations online program is tapping into this exploding industry and giving beer enthusiasts around St. Louis – and the globe – a chance to get involved in the professional brewing world. In the program, students learn about the ins and outs of the brewing industry – from brewing techniques to business plans to biochemistry. The six courses last eight weeks each, and the program can be completed in about 18 months. The program’s instructors are all well-established St. Louis brewers, such as Stephen Hale, who is one of the founding brewers of Schlafly Beer. Hale teaches BREW 1500, which covers all-grain brewing and beer styles. By the end of the eight-week course, students should have a good idea of how to design a beer recipe. Another integral part of the class is meeting with other beer professionals via Zoom to ask questions and network. These guest speakers include brewers from Civil Life Brewing Co., Second Shift Brewing, Rockwell Beer Co. and Schlafly. “The feedback I generally get is that the students absolutely adore it because they learn that brewing is familial,” Hale says. “It’s all about community.” One of the program’s recent graduates, Carl Bundy, found great value in learning from professionals in the field. Hale holds weekly Zoom happy hours with his students, and one week, he started telling the students about how he had created Schlafly’s Pale Ale. At the time, Bundy had a couple cans of this same beer down in his own fridge. “I’m like, this is kind of amazing,” Bundy says. “This is the guy that created the product that I’m drinking in my own house.” This strong sense of community was also one of the highlights for Nicole Estes, another recent graduate. Estes found a mentor in instructor Abbey Spencer, head brewer for Third Wheel Brewing in St. Charles, Missouri. Recently, Spencer – who teaches BREW 2500, also known as Flavor, Quality Control and Evaluation – invited Estes to brew her own 10-gallon batch of beer at Third Wheel. Estes’ beer is a Belgian-style ale with notes of orange peel, honey, oak and tequila. “I call her my big sister because she is so great at helping you figure out beer, ” Estes says. “She’s great at helping and empowering you to figure it out. Her guidance and support is always geared toward you becoming the subject matter expert.” One of the most important components of Spencer’s course is learning how to describe the sensory side of beer. This includes aroma, appearance, flavor, mouthfeel and overall impression. Vocabulary comes into play here; beer can be woody, tropical, leathery and a multitude of other descriptors. The importance of these sensory descriptions helps students get a deeper understanding of the beer recipe itself. “I need to know how to change the beer based on sensory,” Spencer says. “Does it need more or less of a certain type of hop? Does it need more or less of sweetness or dryness, any of these characteristics? I need to be able to hone it in real close so that I can adjust my recipes based on my sensory experience.” Estes says she is grateful that SLU’s program is spotlighting influential women in the industry. According to her, just seeing more women involved in the brewing world – especially women of color – is important to growing diversity in the beer industry.

The feedback I generally get is that the students absolutely adore it because they learn that brewing is familial. It’s all about community. – STEPHEN HALE Photo by Charlotte Renner

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My hope is to link arms with individuals in the beer industry to continue knocking down walls and create an inclusive space for all. There are so many opportunities in the industry beyond just brewing beer. – NICOLE ESTES

“Throughout the time I was enrolled in the SLU program, I noticed I was the only Black person in each class,” Estes says. “My hope is to link arms with individuals in the beer industry to continue knocking down walls and create an inclusive space for all. There are so many opportunities in the industry beyond just brewing beer.” Overall, the program teaches students the essentials they need to know before entering any aspect of the industry. Estes says the knowledge she gained in the program helped her land a job at Anheuser-Busch as a talent acquisition specialist. Also, after finishing the program, Bundy left the Walgreens warehouse where he had worked for 25 years to start a job as an assistant brewer at St. Nicholas Brewing Company in Du Quoin, Illinois. “I was ecstatic,” Bundy says. “I didn’t know anything about craft beer when I first started at the warehouse, and this course really helped me transition to a career change. I was sad to leave the people in the warehouse, but I knew that I was kind of destined for bigger things and wanted to be a part of this brewing community.” SLU’s Brewing Science and Operations program is online, so students anywhere can partake – previous students have lived in California, Louisiana and even as far as Japan. However, Hale says that the St. Louis brewing community is the heart of this program.

Photo by Charlotte Renner

“I can’t think of a better place [to have this program],” Hale says. “St. Louis has a deep history of breweries [that stretches] 100 years, and [it has] the talent to support it. There are so many brewing-knowledgeable people in this city. I think it’s the perfect place.” For more information on the program, visit slu.edu/professional-studies/programs/brewing-science-operations-cert.php.

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20 at 20 Twenty years of 20 Minutes to Fitness When Paul and Laura Miller of St. Louis first read in Newsweek about a 20-minute, once-a-week fitness regimen, they were skeptical. The 2001 article, which described a safe way to lift weight in super-slow motion, seemed too good to be true. But University of Florida Medical School research found the regimen improved strength, bone density and overall functionality in people of all ages and fitness levels. Lesley Stahl of 60 Minutes was a fan. So was Barbara Walters. Both trained at a New York City studio founded by fitness guru Adam Zickerman. Intrigued, the Millers traveled to New York to experience the workout firsthand. Soon they were hooked. Later that year, they opened 20 Minutes to Fitness in Clayton, the first studio of its kind in our region. Staffed by physical therapists and other professionals, it offered St. Louisans a safe, efficient way to build muscle. Because the once-a-week workout takes just 20 minutes, it also freed participants to spend the remaining 10,060 minutes in their week with family and friends, furthering their careers or doing anything OTHER than think about exercise.

20 years of 20 Minutes to Fitness

BETTY CUNIBERTI, a former Post-Dispatch columnist and breast cancer-survivor, was an early convert. Writing about her experience, she effused over the workout’s many benefits, concluding, “I never dreamed at age 55, I’d hit a golf ball so far or wear a skirt so short.”

20 Minutes to Fitness today has locations in Chesterfield and Clayton, along with Tampa and Sarasota, Florida, where DICK SMOTHERS of Smothers Brothers-fame trained, claiming the workout helped him get in “THE BEST SHAPE OF (HIS) LIFE.”

KMOX radio’s CHARLIE BRENNAN has trained at 20 Minutes to Fitness since 2006 because “20 minutes, once a week is something I can stick with,” he says. “Plus, it has the added benefit of working great.” Pro golfer JAY DELSING credits 20 Minutes to Fitness with helping him build the strength needed to rejoin the PGA Champions tour after back surgery.

Since its founding, 20 Minutes to Fitness has trained countless doctors, a former Olympic ice dancer, high school football players, grandmothers seeking to build bone density, busy corporate executives, avid cyclists, father-daughter duos and thousands of health-minded people just trying to live their fittest and best lives. All say they appreciate the one-on-one, by-appointment-only training. They like that 20 Minutes to Fitness requires no memberships or long-term commitments. Most importantly, they love the results.

As 20 Minutes to Fitness celebrates its 20th year, the Millers, general manager CASEY BRESLIN, PT, and their staff still meet people who are skeptical of a 20-minute, once-a-week workout. They understand. They suggest you do the same thing they did: just try it.

Your first workout, along with a health screening and consultation, is free.

For more information on 20 Minutes to Fitness, call its local studios in Clayton (314-863-7836), Chesterfield (636-536-1504), Sarasota or Tampa, or visit 20MinutesToFitness.com. feastmagazine.com / a u gu s t 2 02 2

r Ba A Better

WRITTEN BY KASEY CARLSON PHOTOS BY JUDD DEMALINE

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THIS NEIGHBORHOOD SPOT KNOWN FOR INVENTIVE COCKTAILS IN THE GROVE IS RECRUITING ST. LOUIS’ NEXT GENERATION OF BARTENDERS. If there are two people in St. Louis who know how a bar runs, it’s Meredith Barry and Tony Saputo. Both are bar-industry veterans in St. Louis and beyond. You might recognize Barry from her stint as beverage director at the Angad Arts Hotel’s former Grand Tavern and The ART Bar rooftop, and Saputo was most recently the beverage director for Wheelhouse, Start Bar and The Midwestern Meat + Drink. The two now work together as the co-owners of Platypus – a neighborhood cocktail joint at the end of Manchester Avenue’s main stretch in The Grove – and are building an industry workplace that is happier and healthier than what is common in the bar scene. Platypus opened in November in the former home of The U.R.B. – the experimental kitchen for the neighboring Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. The shotgun-style space features three rooms side by side, each with a slightly different feel: You’ll find the main bar when you walk in, followed by a room outfitted with pinball machines and booths before you reach the last room, which holds a stage for live music, that features predominantly metal, hard rock and DJs. And although you might find your own favorite spot in the space, the centerpiece is the large chalkboard hanging on the wall beside the bar that features a list of approximately five rotating cocktails available to order. This chalkboard serves many purposes. Not only does it support sustainability behind the bar by encouraging the staff to use what they already have, but it also boosts the creativity necessary to have a rotating cast of characters. However, its arguably most essential function is making sure that bartenders are always learning something new. This is especially important at Platypus, as the business aims to be a learning experience for those who have perhaps never stepped foot behind a bar. Together, Barry and Saputo, plus a team of trusted managers, help their trainees to become full-fledged bartenders in no time. “It’s been like a cool group project,” Saputo says. “The ones that have been here a little bit longer and really acclimated – you see them pulling the newer ones up. The funny thing is that the cocktail part – the stuff that, I think, a lot of people romanticize – that’s been the easier part. The bigger challenge is what it means to be a bartender.” The full scope of that challenge includes a focus on hospitality and serving guests. But, of course, you have to have something to serve them. On any given night, the chalkboard might offer something like the Jesus Christ, St. George, made with Skeptic Gin, St. George dry rye gin, basil brandy, spiced pear, lemon, tea and black lemon, or the Morning Glory, a clarified chocolate milk punch with

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uto Sap Tony

uto

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bourbon, gin, cacao, nixta, citrus, cacao nibs and espresso mocha. There is always a cocktail on the backburner for when an ingredient inevitably runs dry, and the option has to be wiped from the chalkboard and then replaced with the next in line. “Everyone is constantly working on ideas,” Saputo says. Before a drink officially hits the menu, chances are that Saputo or Barry have put their own touches on it to make sure it’s balanced by the time it makes its way to the customer. However, the freedom to be creative is something that gives the staff room to flourish. “The creativity and research is encouraged,” says Platypus bartender Laura McFarland, who started at the bar about a month after it opened. “Some of the other places, they just want you to make what they’ve already made, and there’s no time to really try anything else.” For McFarland, who has even gotten in trouble at previous establishments for trying to think out of the box, it’s been a very welcome change. “I think it’s gotten me into a really good headspace,” she says. “It was something I wanted for so long, but it was kind of being pushed back or taken away from me.” Even the bar’s owners recognize that the learning process is a two-way street. “I think the biggest thing is that we’re learning, too, along this process, and pushing our own personal boundaries,” Barry says. “I think Meredith and I are finding that these people with fresh eyes and everything are thinking of things that we’ve never really thought before,” Saputo agrees. Obviously, with a bar staff that has many still in training, some things are bound to go wrong, such as someone using the wrong ratios to make a basil simple syrup, but both owners embrace that you have to make some mistakes to grow. “You learn a lot from messing up,” Barry says. “I have also done enough dumb shit that I remind myself not to get too upset about shit,” Saputo adds. Because Platypus’ owners have witnessed plenty of bar environments throughout their careers where drug and alcohol abuse were rampant and often glamorized, they agree they want to ensure they are offering support and that everyone on the team is truly healthy. “I think it’s just been [about] transparency,” Saputo says. “I’m pretty available to everyone [and] so is Meredith – probably almost to a fault sometimes. I try to be the best at manifesting and maintaining where people are, where they’re standing, what’s expected of them next, things like that, you know. So there’s a lot of sidebar conversations and things like that that I wouldn’t have gotten at other places.” And from what Barry and Saputo have seen so far, it’s all paying off. “There’s this moment that I had. I was bartending on a Sunday night. It was just one night where I really was aware, and I was looking around at the space, and I was watching [two bartenders] dance behind that bar together. And then everyone on the floor is dancing together as well,” Barry says. “I had to pinch myself because I was like, ‘Is this our bar, Tony? Look at this. Look at how happy everybody is. Look how much everybody’s having a good time.’ That energy was so positive. It was such a great mix of industry and neighborhood and people who had just walked in, different age groups. I don’t even know how to describe it. It’s something that I’ve dreamed about for my entire life.” Platypus, 4501 Manchester Ave., The Grove, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.448.1622, drinkplatypus.com

Save the Date for Epworth’s 20th Annual

Wine Dinner & Auction The Ritz-Carlton Grand Ballroom 100 Carondelet Plaza St. Louis, MO 63105

Saturday November 12, 2022 Reception at 6:00 PM Dinner at 7:00 PM

For more information, please visit our website at www.epworth.org/wine or contact Laura at wilsonl@epworth.org

We are thrilled that LaChance Vineyards was chosen as the BEST WINERY in the STL Region!!

“

The creativity and research is encouraged. – LAURA MCFARLAND

Short 30 minute drive from South County area Lunch Wednesday through Sunday Live music Friday evenings and Saturday/Sunday afternoons Open all year 12237 Peter Moore Lane, DeSoto, MO 63020 636-586-2777

Visit Our Other Location In Historic Kimmswick 10 minute drive from South County Open Tuesday through Sunday featuring lunch daily and dinner Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings Live music Friday evenings and Saturday/Sunday afternoons Open all year 6035 2nd Street, Kimmswick, MO 63053 636-223-0453

info@lachancevineyards.com ards.com

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at the

GARDEN

JOIN FEAST MAGAZINE as we celebrate the release of the August issue! Enjoy live music, tasty bites from local food trucks and beverages from the Canteen while learning more about the best in local beer, wine and spirits.

FRIDAY, AUGUST 5 6-8PM

PRESENT

For more information, visit feastmagazine.com/garden 62

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ED BY

NO BOOZE.

ALL BITE. WRITTEN BY HEATHER RISKE

PHOTO COURTESY OF GIESEN

As demand and interest for nonalcoholic beverages continue to grow, high-quality zeroproof wines are popping up on local restaurant menus and bottle shop shelves.

ver the past few years, nonalcoholic (NA) craft breweries, such as St. Louis’ Wellbeing Brewing Co., and zero-proof spirit brands, such as bartender-favorite Seedlip, have emerged onto the scene with high-quality options for those looking to skip the booze. One sector of the nonalcoholic beverage industry, however, has seemingly lagged behind: wine. However, some local experts say that’s starting to change. According to Nielsen, sales of nonalcoholic wine rose 43 percent in the first half of 2021 to become the second fastestgrowing category of wine that year.

The Wine & Cheese Place’s general manager Paul Hayden says he’s amazed by the volume of nonalcoholic products the shop sells across its multiple locations. Although he admits that beer is still the leader in the NA beverage category, he says there’s “no doubt” that the vast improvement in quality has spurred the growing interest in nonalcoholic wines. “There were few choices five years ago,” he says, citing brands such as ARIEL Vineyards and Fre Wines, an offshoot of Sutter Home, both of which hit the market in the 1980s. “Now, there are many more and many more coming. It seems wine is poised to be the next big mover, as nicer wines are starting to come on board. We are starting to see some ‘fit wines’ with lower alcohol, and then established wineries like Giesen and Leitz are coming out with NA wines. You have Luminara Chardonnay and Cabernet made using expensive Napa Valley grapes from the prized wine region. So, you are starting to see every category covered in NA wines now.” In particular, the sparkling category is proving to be especially popular within the nonalcoholic wine sector. Just ask Kara Flaherty, the beverage and retail director for Take Root Hospitality, whose restaurants include Vicia, Winslow’s Table, Taqueria Morita and Bistro la Floraison. When she added Leitz’s Eins Zwei Zero Riesling and sparkling rosé to the retail selection at Winslow’s Table a few

months ago, they flew off the shelf. Flaherty says the characteristic bubbles of a sparkling wine add needed texture to help what is missing in a nonalcoholic wine. “With alcohol, especially in wine, that’s kind of where you get all of your flavor components,” she says. “When you’re taking that out, it makes it a little bit more difficult to have a good, quality product. It makes it a bit more difficult to have a beverage that tastes like more than just grape juice.” Eric Voss, the beverage manager of Pastaria and Pastaria Deli & Wine, agrees and adds that sparkling wines can make for a great introduction to the nonalcoholic category. “Every time there’s a chance for bubbles, I think people are more open to trying something, as opposed to if someone said, ‘Let’s open a bunch of NA Pinot Noirs,'" he says. “Bubbles tend to be the majority, but I’m also starting to see Pinot Noir and some of these lighter-style wines. I think there’s more ability to manipulate the grape in those than if you were going to try to dealcoholize a Cabernet or a Syrah or something like that.” No matter which style of nonalcoholic wine he’s sipping, Voss says he and the Pastaria team are committed to finding the same level of quality they’d seek in its boozy counterpart, from the nose to the flavor to the mouthfeel. “If you’re drinking bubbles, can you still find that little bit of yeastiness or breadiness off there?” he says. “Am I still going to get a similar nose that I’m used to if I’m drinking a Pinot Noir from Oregon? I worry about what the [dealcoholizing] process does, but I think we’re finally moving far enough, and it’s been around long enough, that people are able to correctly manipulate those. I’m just excited to see this trend turn into more than just a trend.” Here, we’re sharing five standout nonalcoholic wines available to purchase locally.

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Popular Nonalcoholic Wines to Try

Grüvi Secco Non-Alcoholic With a mission of making people “feel comfortable, regardless of what’s in their cup,” Denver-based Grüvi offers a full lineup of nonalcoholic wines and beers in familiar styles. Gluten-free, low-sugar and made from all-natural ingredients, styles include a sparkling sangria with notes of blood orange, red currant and blueberry; a bold, full-bodied dry red blend; a dry “Secco” perfect for making NA mimosas and a fruity sparkling rosé. Shop the full lineup at getgruvi.com, or find select styles at The Wine & Cheese Place. PHOTO COURTESY OF GRÜVI

Giesen 0% New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand’s Marlborough region is world-famous for its unique Sauvignon Blanc wines, and thanks to local, family-owned and -operated producer Giesen, those who don’t drink don’t have to skip out on the experience. The winery’s 0% New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc delivers the same “fresh aromatics and crisp, clean flavors” without the alcohol, featuring citrus flavors, notes of blackcurrant and passionfruit and a crisp, dry finish. The winery’s 0% line also features a Pinot Grigio, rosé and Premium Red. Order online through Amazon or Drizly, or find it at The Wine & Cheese Place’s multiple locations around town. giesenwines.com PHOTO COURTESY OF GIESEN

Leitz Eins Zwei Zero Alcohol-Free Sparkling Riesling

PHOTO COURTESY OF LEITZ

Rheingau, Germany-based grower and producer Leitz was an early leader in the nonalcoholic wine sector, launching its Eins Zwei Zero line in 2007. The winery uses vacuum distillation to remove the alcohol from the wines, thereby allowing them to maintain their unique flavors. The Eins Zwei Zero line includes a blanc de blancs, chardonnay, sparkling rosé, pinot noir and riesling, with notes of lime and citrus and a slightly off-dry finish. Pick up a 250-ml can of the riesling or rosé at several shops around town, including Pastaria Deli & Wine, The Wine & Cheese Place, Winslow’s Table and select Schnucks Markets. leitz-wein.de/en

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE WINE PROXIES

Acid League Wine Proxies The Wine Proxies from Canadian vinegar brand Acid League aren’t made to replicate traditional wines exactly, but the artful bottles and unique flavors make for an exciting booze-free drinking experience nonetheless. Made with fruits, teas, spices and bitters, the nonalcoholic beverages are available in flavors such as Pastiche (a take on Gewurztraminer with notes of lychee, pineapple and peach) and the Tuscan-inspired Nightshade, which gets a “savory, minerally depth” from the addition of kombu. The brand has also teamed up with the likes of chef Sean Brock and sommelier André Mack on exclusive collaborations. Order online at acidleague.com/collections/wine-proxies, or find select styles locally at AO&Co.

Luminara Luminara is the first alcohol-removed wine to bear the appellation of the renowned Napa Valley region. With that in mind, the brand strives to deliver “a true fine wine experience – without the alcohol.” Choose from a chardonnay with rich tropical fruit notes and a refreshing, crisp finish, or a red blend with bold black cherry aromas and subtle notes of spice and smoke, both of which are made with prized grapes grown in the Napa Valley. Find Luminara wines on the menu at Almonds in Clayton and Bella Vino in St. Charles, or snag a bottle to take home at Ellisville Liquors or The Wine & Cheese Place. luminarawines.com PHOTO COURTESY OF LUMINARA WINES

A FOODIE’S

PARADISE ARADISE We’ll Show You Around Springfield!

Whether it’s fresh, farm-to-table foods served at locally-owned restaurants or a hand-crafted beverage on the Ozarks Tap and Pour Craft Beverage Tour, Springfield’s foodie scene will please your palate. We love our city and know the best places to eat, drink and play. See you in Springfield, Missouri!

Point your smartphone camera at this QR code to find out more about things to do in Springfield. feastmagazine.com / a u gu s t 2 02 2

JULY / AUG 2022

SMOOTHIES

WI WILL L VE

happy FUN!

FARM SH FRE

You’ll find easy eats for breakfast and lunch, Good For You picks, super-simple smoothies and farm-fresh recipes featuring local produce. Plus, earn 2X Points on over 150 Happy Healthy Kids items Wednesday, 8/3 thru Tuesday, 8/30.

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