ozark indulgence
sweets for the season
frosty & festive
LOCAL CAVIAR
GLOBAL GOODIES
ICE WINE
Inspired Local
joy to the swirl
feastmagazine.com | december 2015
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Inspired Local Food Culture
DECEMBER 2015
3
When there’s a chill in the air, a Missouri Chambourcin needs to be in your glass. It’s a red wine that delights at the dinner table, tantalizes at the tailgate, and perfectly pairs with all of your seasonal celebrations. Best of all, it has a variety of flavorful friends that do the “Show Me” State proud and are winning over the taste buds of Missouri wine nonbelievers. But don’t take our word for it. Take our wine.
MissouriWine .org | #MeetMoWines
4
feastmagazine.com
DECEMBER 2015
Inspired Local Food Culture | Midwest
DECEMBER 2015 froM the staff |8|
FEATURES | 27 |
from the PUBLISher
Cheers to 2015.
| 10 |
dIgItaL content
What’s online this month.
| 12 |
feaSt tv
A peek at the December episode.
| 15 |
drinK
| 37 |
cooK
This month we’re sipping cocktails at a new restaurant in Maplewood, Missouri, and creative hot cocoa in Springfield, Missouri. We also talk to the owners and bartenders of three speakeasies about why the Prohibition concept is making a comeback – and how to get in on it.
| 44 | Seed to taBLe
shoP
| 50 | Sweet IdeaS
dine This month we visit three restaurants, including a new bread bakery and café in St. Louis and a Kansas City restaurant serving hearty lunch fare. In our monthly travel piece, Road Trip, writer Bryan A. Hollerbach travels to Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, and shares where to dine, drink and stay this month during the city’s holiday events and festivities. We also talk to three chefs to learn what they’re cooking and baking with blood oranges.
| 43 |
We visit two regional shops this month – an artisan food shop and café in St. Louis, and a new grocery store concept in Kansas City. We also catch up with Fred Domke, founder of Bridge Bread and Bridge Bread Bakery in St. Louis, about how his organization is making a positive impact in the lives of homeless local residents.
Farmer Crystal Stevens shares a hearty side dish to make the most of winter root vegetables.
54
| 46 | myStery ShoPPer
living on the wedge\
In Greenville, Illinois, sisters Amy and Beth Marcoot have transformed their family’s dairy farm into an award-winning cheese-making business.
Buy it and try it: orange blossom water.
| 48 | menU oPtIonS Rich and festive, roasted duck with pineapple warms up chilly winter nights.
63
Pastry chef Christy Augustin rolls up cranberry rugelach for the holidays.
COVER PHOTO OF PEPPERMInT MERInGuE COOKIES (P. 78) By TERESA FLOyD
66
TABLE OF COnTEnTS PHOTO OF CLAMS AnD MuSSELS In TOMATO-SAFFROn BROTH (P. 87) By JEnnIFER SILVERBERG
74 82
ice aged
Regional winemakers risk a lot to produce ice wine, aging grapes on the vine months past harvest – but the payoff is intensely sweet, silky dessert wines.
caviar, close to hoMe
How a bait store near Lake of the Ozarks became a player in the international caviar industry.
... and everything nice Spice up your holiday baking routine with five easy treats inspired by sweet traditions from around the world.
feast of the seven fishes
Celebrate the holidays with a rich and festive fish and seafood feast inspired by a southern Italian tradition.
Magazine Volume 6
| Issue 12 | December 2015
Vice President of Niche Publishing, Publisher of Feast Magazine Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com
Hand Crafted Coffees Importing Fine Coffees from 20 Countries • QUALITY • EXPERIENCE • SERVICE
Director of Sales Angie Henshaw ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1298 EDITORIAL Senior Editor Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Managing Editor Nancy Stiles, nstiles@feastmagazine.com Associate Editor Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com
Full Service Coffeehouse & Restaurant Supplier Fourth Generation Family Owned Coffee Roasters Since 1930
WWW.CHAUVINCOFFEE.COM
314-772-0700
Digital Editor Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor Mabel Suen Editorial Intern Macy Salama Proofreader Christine Wilmes
St. Louis' Premier Winter Destination
Contributing Writers Christy Augustin, Ettie Berneking, Scott Drake, Pete Dulin, Mallory Gnaegy, Hilary Hedges, Bryan A. Hollerbach, Valeria Turturro Klamm, Laura Laiben, Brandon and Ryan Nickelson, Matt Seiter, Matt Sorrell, Crystal Stevens, Shannon Weber ART Art Director Alexandrea Doyle, adoyle@feastmagazine.com
Experience the Tradition!
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6
feastmagazine.com
december 2015
Production Designer Jacklyn Meyer, jmeyer@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers Judd Demaline, Teresa Floyd, Hannah Foldy, Jonathan Gayman, Natalie Hinds, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Jennifer Silverberg, Mabel Suen, Starboard & Port Creative, Alistair Tutton, Landon Vonderschmidt, Cheryl Waller FEAST TV
producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Judd Demaline of Graine Films
CONTACT US Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1244, feastmagazine.com DISTRIbUTION To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Jeff Moore for St. Louis at jmoore@stldist.com, Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com, and Dirk Dunkle for Jefferson City and Columbia at dadunkle@columbiatribune.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2015 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC
ContrIbutors
12.15 teresa floyd Kansas City, Photographer Teresa Floyd is a Kansas City-based freelance photographer and food writer. She received formal training in French patisserie from Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts and honed her skills as a pastry chef and chocolatier at The French Broad Chocolate Lounge, in Asheville, North Carolina, The Ritz-Carlton, Orlando Grande Lakes in Orlando, Florida; and Christopher Elbow Chocolates in Kansas City. Following a passion to combine her love of food and photography has led her to contribute to publications such as Feedfeed, Food52, TODAY Food, Driftless Magazine and Edible Kansas City. She is an editor for the online food publication Feedfeed and contributing photographer and writer for Food52. In addition, Teresa shares her current creations as the author of Now, Forager, a pastry blog featuring seasonal desserts. In her free time she is happily searching for local pastries, eating chocolate and enjoying the local farmers’ markets.
mallory gnaegy
NOVEMBER 21 – JANUARY 2
St. Louis, Writer Mallory recently returned to her native St. Louis after living on the Gulf Coast, where she was a food writer for a paper in Sarasota, Florida. After she wrestled an alligator to the ground with her bare hands and ate it, she decided she had seen it all and moved back to her hometown. Mallory attributes her honed palate to Kaldi’s, where she got her start as a 16-year-old barista, and to her mother and uncle Richard who taught her that food is an experience to enjoy with loved ones. She takes as many trips to California wine country as her liver allows and pretends to cook as well as the chefs she writes about.
SELECT EVENINGS 5 – 9:30 P.M. Toll Free 1-844-461-4655 • www.mobot.org/glow Presented by
jennifer silverberg St. Louis, Photographer Making photographs is something Jennifer has been doing since she was a young girl. Her passion for art, food, sustainability and responsible land use came much later. About five years ago she figured out how to bring those interests together in the world of food photography. Whether she’s in the finest restaurants, the corner butcher shop or the vast fields of the farm, Jennifer finds beautiful connections to food, the people who bring it to us and the animals that nourish us. Her food, portrait and lifestyle work can be seen in publications and advertisements around the world. You can follow her adventures and enjoy some general silliness on Instagram at @jennsilverberg.
hilary hedges Kansas City, Writer Hilary Hedges is a former newsie whose passion for wine led her out of the newsroom and into the cellar. She is currently the director of sales and marketing and assistant winemaker at Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City’s West Bottoms.
HOLIDAY PARTY RECIPE. 1. Start with a great guest list. 2. Add delicious food and drink. 3. Set the party aglow with help from Wilson Lighting in Clayton and Overland Park.
S I N C E 19 7 5 CLAYTON, MO 909 S. Brentwood Blvd 314-222-6300 OVERLAND PARK, KS 10530 Marty 913-642-1500
WILSONLIGHTING.COM
L I G H T I N G Inspired Local Food Culture
december 2015
7
publisher’s letter
another year has passed, and as we turn the page to a new year,
FeAst eVeNts stl
Tue., Dec. 1, 6pm; EdgeWild Bistro & Tap; $75; call 314.548.2222 for reservations
Join EdgeWild executive chef Aaron Baggett and Goose Island brewmaster Patrick Reisch, a
I want to pause and take a moment to express my gratitude for the experiences I’ve had via my work with Feast in 2015. Our mission at Feast is to uncover the culinary treasures in our region, and as I travel throughout Missouri, Illinois and Kansas, I am continually struck by Marcella Ibarguren (pictured left), owner of Brigabon Candy Co., the talent and dedication developed a gingerbread brigadeiro recipe (p. 79) for this issue. of our local farmers, chefs, brewers, vintners, distillers and culinary artisans. We have covered so many incredible people this past year, and we’ve only just scratched the surface of the stories that can – and should – be told. When I created Feast, I did so with a cross-platform approach specifically so we could leverage print, digital and video assets to paint the richest picture possible of the subjects we cover. As Feast has evolved, we’ve expanded our reach, and I, in particular, have had the pleasure of producing our half-hour television show, Feast TV, which allows me to go directly to the sources and capture what defines the flavor of the Midwest.
sixth-generation brewmaster, for a special beerpairing dining experience with Goose Island Beer Co. Enjoy a four-course dinner featuring Goose Island’s Belgian-style wild ales, Gillian, Halia, Juliet and Lolita, and paired against various ales and Bourbon County stout. MO
“say Cheese” on the hermann Wine trail Sat., Dec. 12, 10am to 5pm; Sun., Dec. 13, 11am to 5pm; Hermann, Missouri; $30; hermannwinetrail.com/ say-cheese-wine-trail
Sip and sample wine and cheese pairings from the classic to the creative. Annually held the second weekend of December, the event coincides with Hermann’s popular Kristkindl Markt, an old-world holiday market. stl
schnucks Cooks: roasted Duck Thu., Dec. 17, 6 to 9pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School; $40; 314.909.1704 or schnuckscooks.com
Join us in the kitchen and learn how to make roasted duck, green salad with pears and pomegranates, wild rice with snap peas and tomatoes, and cranberry ice cream with white chocolate chunks. In this class you’ll learn how to correctly sear duck breast and render the fat from under the skin. You’ll also learn how to make a roux to produce creamy sauces and gravies. stl stl
This month’s shoots were especially tasty, inspired by the confections in associate editor Bethany Christo’s feature, “… And Everything Nice” (p. 74). I whipped up a batch of marshmallows with Russell Ping, hung out with Anne Croy as she made orange-scented torrone, painted piping bags with Natasha Goellner to make peppermint meringue cookies, and buttered up my hands and rolled brigadeiro with Marcella Ibarguren. It’s always an adventure to put an issue of Feast together. From initial brainstorming to final layout, each Feast-er is focused on delivering the best content possible, and as we develop our 2016 editorial calendar, I’m already hungry for the delicious year to come.
Goose island sour sisters Dinner
New Year’s eve at sanctuaria Thu., Dec. 31; Sanctuaria Wild Tapas; sanctuariastl.com
Join Sanctuaria as the entire restaurant is transformed into a speakeasy from the times of Prohibition. Imbibe authentic cocktails and enjoy a four-course meal inspired by the era, all lit by candlelight only. KC
Midwest Flavors Cooking series: the New Gin revival Sat., Jan. 16, 6:30 to 9pm; Culinary Center of Kansas City; $75; cookingschoolsofamerica.com/kcculinary
Join 2015 Feast 50 winner Pinckney Bend Distillery of New Haven, Missouri, as they bring one of their amazing Gin Labs to the Culinary Center of Kansas City. Pinckney Bend Distillery specializes in handcrafted spirits and holds numerous international awards for its American
Until next time,
and cask-finished gin. stl
Cat’s picks Wednesdays, 8:35am; The BIG 550 KTRS
Tune in as Feast publisher Catherine Neville chats with host McGraw Milhaven and gives her weekly
Catherine Neville
picks for the best places to eat and drink in the St. Louis area.
publisher@feastmagazine.com
8
feastmagazine.com
DECEMBER 2015
@cat_neville
@cat_neville
coming soon
it’s more than music...
Dec 2-5 Sean Jones Dec 6 Big Band Christmas with the Dave Dickey Big Band Dec 9-10 The Service Dec 11-12 A Very Manley Christmas
Dec 16-19 Matt Wilson’s Christmas Tree-O
holiday cheer at jazz at the bistro
Dec 21-23 Ellington’s Nutcracker
concerts | dinner | drinks
Dec 26-27 Good 4 the Soul
full concert listing and info:
jazzstl.org jazzstl.org | 314.571.6000 314.571.6000
the harold & dorothy steward center for jazz 3536 washington ave. st.louis, mo 63103 Presenting Sponsor of the 2015-16 Jazz at the Bistro Season
fabulous holidays at Gift idEa - fox thEatrE tiCkEtS
Early Gift - SEE a Show
JANUArY 19-31
FEBrUArY 12-14
FEB. 23 - MArCH 6
MArCH 11-13
MArCH 15-27
April 5-17
fox theatre Gift Cards are also available DECEMBEr 4-6
April 26 - MAY 8
314-534-1111
MAY 18-22
fabulousfox.com
Metrotix.com Inspired Local Food Culture
DECEMBER 2015
9
DIGITAL CONTENT
hungry for more?
feastmagazine.com
connect with us daily:
fACEbook. Keep tabs on regional food-and-drink events, like the coffee exhibit at the Missouri History Museum) at facebook.com/feastmag.
PHOTOGRAPHy by MAbeL SueN
thE fEEd: StL Bootleggin BBQ, which formerly served its food out of the kitchen at the Pour House in Midtown St. Louis, has taken over the entire space, serving Kansas Citystyle barbecue like burnt ends, brisket, pulled pork and more.
tWIttEr. Follow @feastmag to learn about
must-try dishes, like Pastaria’s hot chicken pizza made in collaboration with Southern in St. Louis.
thE fEEd: mId-mo PHOTOGRAPHy by CORey WOODRuFF
Longtime Springfield restaurateur Mike Jalili opened the doors to Black Sheep Burgers & Shakes this month, serving indulgent burgers and boozy shakes made with Andy’s Frozen Custard.
PHOTOGRAPHy by WHiSKey AND SObA
PHOTOGRAPHy by eTTie beRNeKiNG
PIntErESt. Find crowd-pleasing appetizers (like sweet potato and rosemary blinis) on our Party Plates board at pinterest.com/feastmag.
morE on thE fEEd: Keep up with what’s happening in the region’s food-and-drink scene by visiting our daily updated news blog, The Feed, at feastmagazine.com/the-feed. We recently took a look at the new Lawrence location of Kansas City’s much-loved Port Fonda and explored how Good Life Growing is revitalizing a North St. Louis neighborhood. SPECIAL GIVEAWAY: Win a pair of tickets to Say Cheese on the Hermann Wine Trail. Just head to the Promotions section at
feastmagazine.com for all the details.
10
feastmagazine.com
D E C E M B E R 2015
InStAGrAm. Hashtag your local food and drink photos with #feastgram for a chance to see them in Feast! Details on p. 90. Follow us @feastmag.
Watch our videos and Feast TV.
youtube.com/FeastMagazine
UNWRAP the MAGIC of the SEASON Just in time for the Holidays, come see our new packaging & gifting collections at our new location in West County Center or other three locations
PLAZA FRONTENAC | 32 MARYLAND PLAZA Open for the Holidays at: WEST COUNTY CENTER | 1600 N. BROADWAY WWW.BISSINGERS.COM
Inspired Local Food Culture
DECEMBER 2015
11
FEAST TV
TV
Look for the Feast TV splat throughout the magazine. It tells you which articles are part of this month’s episode!
in this month’s episode: Sweet! This month, Feast TV explores the pleasures of handmade confections and gets into the kitchen with four outstanding pastry chefs to uncover the secrets of making perfect peppermint meringue cookies, orange-pistachio torrones, rich brigadeiros and chocolate-dipped marshmallows with toasted coconut.
In this month’s “… And Everything Nice” on p. 74, six Midwest pastry chefs and bakers share recipes for internationally inspired holiday sweets, including Italian torrone, almond toffee and authentic Brazilian brigadeiro.
feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:
12
Missouri Wines
WhoLe Foods Market
L’ écoLe cuLinaire
In December, reach for a bottle of Adam Puchta Winery’s port. Feast TV producer Catherine Neville pairs it with chocolate confections.
Get cooking at home! Pick up the recipes and ingredients from Catherine Neville’s December Feast TV demo at the Brentwood and Town and Country locations of Whole Foods Market in the St. Louis area.
In St. Louis and Kansas City, L’École Culinaire offers high-quality culinary education. From basic culinary skills to careers in management, it has a program to fit any aspiration.
feastmagazine.com
DECEMBER 2015
MAINSTAGE
WATCH FEAST
“Spectacle, wit and joy spill out of it like treasure.” -New York Magazine
WINNER OF FIVE TONY AWARDS
ON THESE NETWORKS BY RICK ELICE
December 2 – 27 | In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to see Feast TV on Sat., Dec. 5 at 2pm; Mon., Dec. 7 at 1pm; and Sun., Dec. 27 at 1:30pm. Feast TV will also air throughout the month on nineCREATE.
BASED ON THE NOVEL BY DAVE BARRY AND RIDLEY PEARSON
MUSIC BY WAYNE BARKER DIRECTED BY BLAKE ROBISON
MAINSTAGE
In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) on Sat., Dec. 19 at 2:30pm. BY JAMES GOLDMAN
January 6 – 31 | DIRECTED BY EDWARD STERN IMAGINARY THEATRE COMPANY
You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) on Thu., Dec. 24 and Sat., Dec. 26.
BOOK BY SARAH BRANDT
December 19 – 23 | MUSIC AND LYRICS BY NEAL RICHARDSON Performed at The Heagney Theatre, Nerinx Hall High School
SPECIAL EVENT
Excite your taste buds and discover new flavors at the largest international food and wine show in the Midwest.
January 29 – 31 THE CHASE PARK PLAZA
Feast TV will air in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) at 10am on Sat., Dec. 12.
foodandwinestl.org
314-968-4925| repstl.org 314-968-4925| repstl.org
GROUPS OF 10 OR MORE SAVE BY CALLING 314-968-9489 Inspired Local Food Culture
december 2015
13
YOUR SOURCE FOR THE FINEST
• Maine Lobsters • Jumbo Lump Crabmeat • Dry-Packed Scallops • Jumbo Shrimp • Smoked Salmon • Wide Selection of Oysters & Fish Gift Cards Available!
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FRESHEST SEAFOOD IN ST. LOUIS SINCE 1978! bobsseafoodstl.com
Conveniently located in Kirkwood Vietnamese & Chinese Restaurant A "FEAST" Favorite!
Thank You all Local Area Chefs for Making Us #1 Located in the Meridian Shopping Center at Hanley & Eager Roads behind the Best Buy.
FREE PARKING IN THE METRO LINK GARAGE Tu-Th: 11am-9pm • Fr-Su 11am-10pm 8396 Musick Memorial Dr. • 314.645.2835 www.MaiLeeSTL.com
Dinner Hours: Tues.-Sun. 5 p.m.
133 West Clinton Place St. Louis, MO 63122 314-965-9005 www.citizenkanes.com
BooK your party with LucKy’S toDay!
Great room for holiday parties, Birthday parties, rehearsal Dinners, Business Meetings and much more! • Banquet or customizable menu • Private event space, up to 60 seated for buffet dinner or 120 cocktail-style party • Fun and casual atmosphere • Sound system, audio visual and microphones available to book your event please contact amy Snook, General Manager amy@luckybrewgrille.com or 913-403-8571 5401 Johnson Drive, Mission, KS 66205 913-403-8571, www.luckybrewgrille.com 14
feastmagazine.com
DECEMBER 2015
one on one
snag some pot stickers on p. 17 photography by judd demaline
TRENDING NOw: MEATbALLS
on trend
WRiTTEn by bEThany chRiSTo phoTogRaphy by jonaThan gayman
It’s meatball madness out there: Chefs and diners alike can’t get enough of the versatile savory bites perfect for topping pasta, soaking up sauce or just serving solo as a snack. Mo
family affair
SPRINGFIELD, MO. it’s a family affair at Pappo’s Pizzeria
and Pub’s restaurants in Springfield, missouri, and Lake of the ozarks (with plans to soon open a St. Louis location, as well). at pappo’s, joan’s meatballs are named for chef-owner chris “pappo” galloway’s italian mother, and her fourth-generation recipe is used to make the restaurant’s meatballs, which are served as an appetizer, on pizza and in a sandwich. meatballs are made with 100-percent ground angus chuck, eggs, housemade breadcrumbs, fresh parsley, garlic, salt and red pepper in the traditional northern italian style, then soaked in housemade marinara for at least 24 hours. “Sometimes i’ll walk by a table and people are literally spooning the sauce into their mouths; it’s that good,” galloway says. The entire menu – including stone hearth-baked pizzas and fresh pastas – is inspired by his family’s approach to food and the love of cooking. Pappo’s Pizzeria and Pub, multiple locations, pappospizzeria.com
kc
spanish style
kANSAS cITy. in 2011, chef carmen cabia garcia, who
was born in Spain and has worked in kitchens in Kansas city and across the globe, decided to quit her executive chef job and pursue another passion. She launched an authentic Spanish food truck, El Tenedor, in a 1961 vintage trailer with longtime friend maria Zea, who hails from colombia. in addition to the truck’s bestselling paella and empanadas, its traditional Spanish meatballs are often sought out by fans. “We have many returning customers who come specifically to order the meatballs,” Zea says. The ½-ounce meatballs are made with a mixture of pork and beef, egg, panko and Spanish spices. They are then baked in the oven and cooked in one of two sauces: the truck’s creamy almond sauce, made with leeks, shallots, a white wine reduction, cream and roasted almonds, or its tomato-based jardinera sauce, with sautéed onions, peas and carrots. garcia sources produce from farmers’ markets and always selects ingredients herself. “She’s very picky,” Zea says. “presentation is one of her biggest concerns.” El Tenedor’s season runs from april to october, with its catering business picking up in the interim. check its facebook page for where you can snag the meatballs in the Kansas city area. El Tenedor, 913.219.1079, eltenedorkc.com ONLINE EXTRA Visit feastmagazine.com for two Spanish meatball and sauce recipes from El Tenedor.
stl
on mondays
ST. LOUIS. meatballs are special at Pastaria in
clayton, missouri. So special, in fact, that the hand-formed bites made with locally sourced pork and charcuterie are only served one day a week – mondays – even though customers ask for them every day. Executive chef ashley Shelton says meatball monday started as a way for the italian restaurant to use up scraps from its housemade charcuterie, such as lardo and prosciutto, and meatballs seemed like the most approachable way to do so. “Everyone has tweaks or additions to their own recipe, and there really is no right or wrong way to make a meatball,” she says. in addition to pork and charcuterie, pastaria’s meatballs are filled with pine nuts, garlic, bread, herbs, eggs and cheese – with slight changes each week – and are served with spicy pomodoro sauce and garlic toast. The meatballs are double-ground before being baked in pastaria’s wood-burning oven, and customers can add them to pasta dishes, like the best-selling cacio e pepe, or order them as an appetizer. Shelton says chefs and diners appreciate meatballs’ versatility and plus, she says, “Who doesn’t love a good meatball?” Pastaria, 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, Missouri, 314.862.6603, pastariastl.com
Pastaria Meatballs REcipE couRTESy paSTaRia (adapTEd fRom ThE RESTauRanT’S REcipE)
Serves | 6 | 1 1¼ 3 1 3 ¼ ¼ ½ ½ ¼
cup day-old bread, cut into 1-inch cubes water or buttermilk lbs ground pork eggs, beaten cup Parmesan, finely grated cloves garlic, minced cup parsley cup toasted, chopped pine nuts tsp sea salt tsp freshly ground black pepper cup oil
| Preparation | Soak bread in water or buttermilk for 20 minutes. drain excess moisture. in a large bowl, combine bread with remaining ingredients except oil. mix by hand until evenly incorporated. portion meat into 3-ounce balls, rolling them in the palm of your hand. in a large heavy-bottomed skillet over mediumhigh heat, heat oil. place meatballs in the pan in batches and turn them until brown on all sides, about 10 minutes per batch. Serve warm or at room temperature with your favorite sauce.
stl
cellar house
one on one
david dresner
founder, crispy edge Written by bethany christo
ST. LoUIS. David Dresner started making pot
photography by judd demaline
stickers with his grandfather when he was just 5 years old, and since then, he’s made tens of thousands more in his quest to master the asian-style dumpling for his st. Louis-based pot sticker company, Crispy Edge. he recently moved his wholesale operation to a 9,000-squarefoot space in the tower Grove south neighborhood, where customers will soon be able to browse more than two dozen rotating flavors of precooked dumplings, including the best-selling, Mexican-inspired aztec super sticker (black bean and seven-layer filling wrapped in chia seed dough), chorizo-date (made with paprika dough and served with chive crème fraîche) or pumpkin-bourbon with allspice dough. Plus, a “pot sticker-centric” restaurant is slated to open in the front of the facility in 2016 with a full bar; indoor and outdoor seating; and sides, salads and soups that complement the pot stickers. two st. Louis restaurants, Melt and Lilly’s Music & social house, currently serve crispy edge pot stickers, as well. What inspired Crispy Edge? the mission of crispy edge is to deliver gourmet, globally inspired pot stickers to people throughout the land. Pot stickers are the best vehicle to eat food – dough wrapped around meat or a sweet filling and then seared to create a crispy edge. i didn’t believe pot stickers had really been done right – either the filling didn’t have the quality i was looking for or the dough wasn’t cooked right. i wanted to control that experience, and because i wasn’t able to find anything like what i wanted, i decided to master it, which i’ve been doing for the past three years. We want the tower Grove south spot to be a trial run for what will hopefully be the first of many locations. Tell us about your culinary background. i’ve been involved in the food and beverage industry with my other companies, sleeve a Message and coast a Message [making customized coffee sleeves and coasters, respectively], so i’ve interacted on the retail level, but this is my first professional venture into food-making. Describe your ideal pot sticker. there’s the right thickness of dough – not too thick, not too thin – and then you need that golden shell with a crispy edge. i treat pot stickers as a pastry, handcrafted and far more sophisticated than the traditional dumpling. all of our doughs correspond with the fillings: For example, we do a buffalo chicken and add sesame seeds to the dough, or breakfast frittata stickers with scrambled eggs, green peppers, onion and Parmesan inside parsley dough. My personal favorite is the spicy orange beef because i want to eat the dressing served on it with everything, and we have a really creative process for infusing orange into the dough. What inspires your flavors? My mind is like a tornado, and i’m constantly like, “Let’s make this a pot sticker; let’s make that a pot sticker.” i’m inspired by all different [ethnic foods]. the other day i made an unbelievable schnitzel pot sticker, or my brisket pot sticker with a hash brown edge plays up my Jewish upbringing eating latkes. i’ve had things that haven’t worked, though, like my attempts to make a mac ‘n’ cheese sticker. carb-on-carb is tough – the texture doesn’t work as well. We have pot stickers for the seasons – for December i’m exploring one with duck. My day is never dull, and i don’t think i could have it any other way. Crispy Edge, 4158 Juniata St., Tower Grove South, St. Louis, Missouri, crispyedge.com
tue-thur. 4pm-12am fri. 4pm-1:30am sat. 2pm-1:30am
wine
+
beer
+
cocktails
+
small plates
6039 Telegraph Road Oakville, Missouri www.bottlecellars.com
+
desserts
314 - 846 - 5100
BISTRO & MUSIC HOUSE SIGNATURE STYLE ‘NEW’ NEW ORLEANS CUISINE
512 North Euclid Central West End — 314.367.3644 — evangelinesSTL.com
Friday, Dec. 11th, 2015 join us for a Happy ppy 100t 100th Birthday Tribute to
Frank Sinatra
Dinner & Dancing
perform ormed by St. Louis Favorite
Tony ony V Viviano & His Band
at Patricks, Dec. 31
Many Items from Our Regular Menu will be offered plus delicious specials
Live Music by Love Jones $10.00 Cover Charge for the Bar Area $20.00 Cover Charge for preferred seating!
Dinner and Show $50 per person plus tip Call Now For Reservations One Night Only
314.878.6767
342 West Port Plaza www.patrickswestport.com
Hats & Noisemakers and FREE Champagne at Midnight Included Make Reservations Now! Call 314.878.6767
WINESMOKED MEATSBEER
SPIRITS CHEESECOFFEE GOURMET FOODS Locally Owned Since 1979
great prices. FRESH FISH FLOWN IN EVERY FRIDAY AND SATURDAY
starrs1.com 314.781.2345 Big Bend and 40 in Richmond Heights
Inspired Local Food Culture
december 2015
17
where we’re dining From new restaurants to renewed menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining this month.
union loafers ST. LOUIS. Union Loafers opened in late September in the botanical heights neighborhood of St. Louis, offering patrons plenty of delicious ways to break bread. the café and bakery uses old-world techniques to create its naturally leavened, hearth-baked loaves, which serve as building blocks for its lunchtime-only selection of specialty sandwiches.
on ciabatta, try smoked beets with sauerkraut, thousand island dressing, emmenthaler cheese and a hardboiled egg, or get the house favorite: roasted pork with country ham, gruyère, pickles, mustard and garlic mayonnaise. Simpler sandwiches include almond butter and raspberry jam on Union Loafers’ flagship bread, Light and Mild. the bread is
Story and PhotograPhy by MabeL SUen
made with a straightforward list of ingredients – organic whole wheat, sifted wheat, water and salt – and the ethereally soft, open crumb gives way to a beautifully crispy crust. other meal options include bowls of hearty soup served with slabs of bread as well as the Little gem salad topped with sourdough breadcrumbs. From the bakery, which stays open for retail into the early evening, visitors can choose from a variety of savory goodies including cheesy bread and beautifully browned pretzels served with grain mustard. Union Loafers, 1629 Tower Grove Ave., Botanical Heights, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.833.6111, unionloafers.com
touch restaurant written by ettie berneking PhotograPhy by Starboard & Port Creative
SPRINGFIELD, MO. For years, Touch Restaurant has
been a favorite in the Springfield, Missouri, dining scene thanks to its posh décor and creative menu. here, the classic Caesar salad is dressed up with crispy calamari and olive tapenade, and entrées range from Cajun ahi tuna to Persian lamb shank. this winter, a few seasonal favorites are returning, including the fried lobster, a meaty fried Maine lobster tail dipped in andy’s Frozen Custard and served with lobster risotto. new menu items include the bone-in smoked pork chop with potato purée and roasted garlicbrandy mushrooms, as well as roasted chicken brined in lemon and pickle juice served with barberries, rice, dill yogurt and fresh herbs. the main dining room is bright and packed with oversized booths where large parties can gather around a meal. the bar and lounge, which arguably has one of the best happy hours in town, has a moody and mysterious vibe that’s just plain fun. From one side of the restaurant to the other, the atmosphere swings from dark and romantic to lively, making it perfect for a romantic date or a cocktail-filled night on the town. Touch Restaurant, 1620 E. Republic Road, Springfield, Missouri, 417.823.8383, touch-restaurant.com 18
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d e c e m b e r 2015
mo
stl
BREAKFAST BRUNCH LUNCH COCKTAILS
4059 BROADWAY, KANSAS CITY, MO 64111 (816)931-4401 THECORNERKC.COM
VOTED BEST RIBS SINCE DAY ONE
PHotograPHy by anna Petrow
DINE IN OR CARRY OUT 3106 Olive Street St. Louis, MO 63103 pappyssmokehouse.com 314.535.4340
HOURS: Mon. – Sat. 11 am – 8 pm* Sun. 11 am – 4 pm* *May close earlier if we sell out of food.
�
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KC
howard’s grocery, cafe and catering written by Jenny Vergara
KANSAS CITY. by the time chef Craig Howard opened the lunch-only Howard’s Grocery, Cafe and Catering in September, his griddled patties were already causing full-tilt burger buzz in Kansas City. it’s not all burgers, though: the eatery serves seasonal vegetarian favorites like a take on eggplant Parmesan featuring roasted butternut squash sprinkled with Parmesan cheese, breaded and baked until crispy and topped with rich tomato sauce and ricotta, sandwiched between Farm to Market bread Co. bread. Howard’s pork sandwiches are another standout, including the pulled pork or Canadian bacon with house-cured pork loin. the menu changes weekly and offers a handful of creative sandwiches, fresh salads, soups and a few desserts for lunch tuesday through Friday. enjoy your meal at communal wooden tables surrounded by soft green walls. in the back, you’ll find groceries and prepared foods ready to take home and heat up. the commercial kitchen at Howard’s is busy most nights and on weekends, too, as the staff caters private events. Plans for a rooftop garden are underway for the spring 2016 growing season. Until then, Howard sources his produce, meat and cheese from local farms.
Howard’s Grocery, Cafe and Catering, 1708 Oak St., Crossroads Arts District, Kansas City, Missouri, howardskc.com Inspired Local Food Culture
december 2015
19
destination: ste. genevieve, mo.
road trip
WRITTEN BY BRYAN A. HOLLERBACH
Historic Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, bills itself as “The Mother City of the West” with pride. That nickname reflects its founding (the exact year is disputed, but believed to be in 1735), almost two centuries after the nation’s oldest existing European settlement but before any other municipalities in Missouri. Ste. Genevieve boasts numerous lodging options, a panoply of eateries both old-fashioned and newfangled and robust wine country – plus, in December, many notable ’tis-the-season celebrations.
sleep
eat
Main Street Inn Bed & Breakfast
local events
Cafe Rust
Main Street Ste. Genevieve looks a little different than it did when this bed-andbreakfast was built in 1882; expect 21st-century improvements such as geothermal heating and cooling, as well as seven rooms with triplesheeted queen beds. Several porches and parlors retain the inn’s 19th-century charm.
Rust boutique nurtures one of Downtown’s brightest new lights: Cafe Rust. Owner Shannon McBride, who calls herself “a science geek,” holds degrees in art, art history, kinesiology and sports psychology, and science – as well as barista certification. She caters to patrons craving quality pour-over coffee from St. Louis’ Blueprint Coffee, Italian soda, phosphates and teas, complemented by select housemade baked goods ranging from savory to sweet. 122 n. Main St., 573.608.5055, facebook.com/caferuststegen
Chaumette Vineyards & Winery
221 n. Main St., 800.918.9199, mainstreetinnbb.net
Ste. Genevieve County boasts a thriving wine country, albeit one largely separated from the city proper by several miles and Interstate 55. A regional favorite, Chaumette hired both a veteran executive chef and a new winemaker this summer: Robert Beasley and Henry Johnson, respectively. Beasley brings to the table – figuratively and literally – a passion for Cajun, Creole and Southwestern fare during Cajun Night Thursdays, including chicken gumbo and shrimp Creole.
Inn St. Gemme Beauvais This Downtown gem boasts three stories with eight elegant chambers and many amenities, including private baths; one, The Felix Rozier Room, pays tribute to the man who built the structure in 1848. The inn serves classic French dinners in its restaurant, observes tea time at 2pm and offers wine and hors d’oeuvres at 5pm. 78 n. Main St., 573.883.5744, stgem.com PHOTO COurTeSy THe inn ST. GeMMe BeauvaiS
24345 State route WW, 573.747.1000, chaumette.com
198 Merchant St., 573.883.7102, mostateparks.com
Audubon’s of Ste. Genevieve
PHOTO COurTeSy COurTeSy Of STe. Genevieve TOuriSM CenTer
Launched one year ago in an erstwhile Downtown hotel, Audubon’s of Ste. Genevieve takes its name from American ornithologist, naturalist and painter John James Audubon. Without alienating the area’s Buds-andburgers brigade, it has embraced using local ingredients in dishes like the bestselling Chicken Baetje, named for nearby Baetje Farms, and several drafts from Ste. Genevieve’s Charleville Vineyard, Winery & Microbrewery.
Vieux Noel Christmas Light Walk Vieux Noel Christmas Light Walk runs Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays through Dec. 31 at the Bolduc House Museum and showcases the history and tradition of New France in the 18thcentury U.S. using life-sized backyard stand-ups of multicultural children of the era. New this year are the Biblical Magi – as Native Americans. The gift shop also will offer treats from Mars, Inc.’s line of American Heritage Chocolate.
PHOTO COurTeSy auduBOn’S Of STe. Genevieve
Supposedly once the home of the first pool hall west of the Big Muddy, the Southern Hotel looms grandly just off the town square. Billing itself as the “oldest longest-operating hotel or lodging establishment in the U.S. west of the Mississippi,” it offers nine guest rooms with private baths, as well as spacious front parlors, an equally spacious dining room and a restored game room, to remind present-day visitors of the establishment’s storied past. 146 S. Third St., 573.883.3493, southernhotelbb.com PHOTO COurTeSy THe SOuTHern HOTel
20
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d e c e m b e r 2015
Le Réveillon takes place Dec. 13 and spotlights the delights of early 19th-century French Christmas in and around Ste. Genevieve, including decorations, customs and music from celebrated regional hammered-dulcimer player Rick Thum. Also spotlighted is a baker’s dozen of desserts, including lemon verbena cake made with herbs grown on-site and the annual bash’s lovely specialty, la Bûche de Noël (yule-log cake).
PHOTO COurTeSy CHauMeTTe vineyardS & Winery
9 n. Main St., 573.883.2479, audubonstegen.com
Southern Hotel
Le Réveillon
The Anvil The Anvil is about as old school as you can get. This town-square jewel fronts one of Ste. Genevieve’s few bona fide bartenders, Jerry Holliday, who slings gin, ribald jokes and sports talk with the best of ’em, and fields a sterling serving staff who plate comforting dishes such as pork tenderloin and especially seductive deep-fried beer-battered onion rings. And for dessert: coconut cream pie so good it can transform a humble octogenarian into a ravenous 8-year-old. 46 S. Third St., 573.883.7323
Old Brick House Restaurant Liver dumplings: Mention of the dish often repulses urbanites, but the house specialty has long found favor, especially on the Sunday lunch buffet, at the Old Brick House Restaurant. In addition to the local favorite, the town-square landmark plates exquisite fried chicken, kettle beef and pork chops and remains a favorite for family gatherings and special occasions. 90 S. Third St., 573.883.2724, theoldbrickhouse.com
125 S. Main St., 573.883.3105, bolduchouse.org
La Guignolée Watch Party Traditionally on New Year’s Eve in Ste. Genevieve, the singers and dancers of La Guignolée – mostly male, garbed characters from the 17th and 18th centuries – serenade many Downtown restaurants, various local care centers and other venues in an annual exercise in merriment that purportedly derives from an ancient Gallic custom of distributing mistletoe. Ste. Genevieve Welcome Center, 66 S. Main St., 573.883.7097, visitstegen.com
one on one como
anna meyer owner, range free Written by Valeria turturro Klamm
COLUMBIA, MO. in october, St. louis native anna meyer opened Range
brunch | dinner | happy hour | private events
photography by aaron ottis
Free, the first allergen-free bakery and café in Columbia, missouri. meyer knows firsthand the difficulties of cooking and eating out when living with food allergies. in 2009, after suffering from constant headaches for several years and experiencing no improvements from several doctors’ visits, meyer visited a food allergist who diagnosed her with 24 food allergies and nearly 40 inhalant allergies. “When the doctor handed me a piece of paper of the foods i could no longer eat, the way the allergenfree community describes it is like losing someone really close to you,” meyer says. “the loss and change of your lifestyle is really extreme.” after earning a master’s degree in art history from the university of missouri in 2008, meyer began working as a cake decorator and baker in local grocery stores. in 2012, she started fulfilling custom bakery orders for allergenfree and specialty diets out of her home. now, her café serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, but dinner rotates throughout the week – monday is pizza night, Wednesday is comfort foods, thursday is pasta and Friday is based on seasonal availability. range Free cookies, dessert loaves and muffins are also sold at bookmark Cafe and Wheatstone bistro on the university of missouri campus.
Why did you open Range Free? it started to form in my head in 2012 after having conversations with people with multiple dietary restrictions like myself, who were lacking any outlets. there’s nothing really in Columbia to cater to a grain-free or allergenfree lifestyle. i feel like my approach is slightly different in that i address multiple food allergies. What allergens does Range Free address? everything is free of five allergens: wheat, peanuts, tree nuts, fish and shellfish. the other three in what’s considered the “top eight” allergens – egg, dairy and soy – are present in the kitchen, but if a customer needs waffles without eggs, for example, i can make that for them. it’s very customizable. Is there a menu item that surprises people? the pasta i make is quinoa-based and, i think, better than wheat pasta when you have it cooked properly. the Caesar salad i’ve created is really exciting for me. it doesn’t have anchovies or eggs; the dressing uses an alternative mayonnaise base, oils and spices. i think it tastes better than a [regular] Caesar. but then again, i haven’t had a true Caesar salad in many, many years. When i share my grainfree and dairy-free cheesecake with people, they’re overwhelmed that cheesecake without those things could be so delicious. also, my pumpkin pie and pumpkin bread are top eight-free and have been wildly successful in the past. What do you hope to teach people about eating allergenfree? For the customers who have to eat allergen-free, i hope it teaches them more ways to incorporate food into their diets and gives them a renewed interest in food. it’s very easy to get saddened by food when it’s so restrictive. For the people who can eat whatever they want, i want to surprise them and help them rethink how they approach food.
call to book your holiday event 636 277 0202 | 1520 S. 5th Street, St. Charles, MO
prasinostcharles.com
featuring daily specials Monday - Friday | Lunch & Dinner Saturday - Sunday | Dinner Only 2061 Zumbehl Rd St. Charles, MO 636•949•9005
www.fratellisristorante.com @FratellisToGo
Range Free, 110 Orr St. #101, North Village Arts District, Columbia, Missouri, 573.777.9980, range-free.com
Inspired Local Food Culture
december 2015
21
December to April: blooD orAnges
IN SEASON
KC stl Written by bethany Christo
Bold in name, color and flavor, blood oranges are grown all over the world. In Sicily, where conditions are ideal for growing blood oranges, the fruit produces anthocyanin pigments that impart a deep red hue and astringent tartness. stl
stocking stuffers
st. loUis. growing up in austria, Wild Flower Restaurant & Catering executive chef matt
Dubois looked forward to finding blood oranges in his stocking on st. nicholas’ Day on Dec. 6. “i thought they were cool – they’re the hipsters of oranges because they’re different,” Dubois says. at Wild Flower, Dubois focuses on cooking with local and organic ingredients as much as possible, but that hasn’t stopped him from featuring his favorite fruit in a variety of dishes, including the “duet of duck” with confit and breast, plus a sherry-braised swiss chard and blood orange gastrique, or poached Dungeness crab salad with tarragon oil, micro beet greens and supremed blood and navel oranges. blood oranges will also help the restaurant ring in the new year, with a celebratory greek yogurt-based cheesecake with an almond crust and bourbon-chocolate ganache topped with brûléed supremed blood oranges. “blood oranges can totally stand up to a torch, making a wonderful burnt orange-chocolate flavor,” Dubois says. “blood oranges are a little more tart and astringent. there’s a nuance and specific flavor profile you’re going for.” Wild Flower Restaurant & Catering, 4590 Laclede Ave., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.367.9888, wildflowerstl.com
mo
taste of home
back-of-house treat
brAnson, mo. Whether with a rare farmers’ market find or a shipment of unusual
Level 2 Steakhouse, 200 E. Main St., Branson, Missouri, 417.243.3433, level2steakhouse.com
them in,” says Jasper’s restaurant chef-owner Jasper J. mirabile irabile Jr., of the blood oranges on the restaurant’s menu through the holidays. sometimes the fruit is used more subtly, like in a blood orange reduction bathing bone-in duck and wild rice or a drizzle of blood orange-infused olive oil over a salad of wild greens and shaved fennel. but in other menu items it takes the focus; the restaurant has a cocktail menu devoted entirely to blood oranges – think blood orangecello with prosecco and fresh blood orange juice or an adapted affogato with white chocolate gelato and a shot of blood orangecello. there’s also the popular blood orangecello cake made by soaking yellow cake in blood orange liqueur that’s then topped with powdered sugar and nuts. growing up, mirabile spent his summers in sicily icily and fondly remembers seeing pitchers of blood orange juice at hotel breakfast bars. “i was introduced to it at a young age, and my mom served it,” he says. “you see it on every breakfast bar in italy.” Jasper’s Restaurant, 1201 W. 103rd St., Watts Mill, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.941.6600, jasperskc.com
Blood orangecello Cake reCipe Courtesy Jasper J. mirabiLe Jr.
serves | 12 | blooD orAngecello
2 4 2
cups water cups sugar bottles vodka juice and rinsed peels of 20 blood oranges
cAKe
2 1½ 1 ½ ¾ 1 ½ 3
cups all-purpose flour cups sugar Tbsp baking powder cup nonfat dry milk cup blood orangecello (recipe below) tsp vanilla cup softened butter eggs
glAze
¾ ¾ ½ 4 4
cup brown sugar cup butter cup blood orangecello (recipe below) Tbsp blood orange juice Tbsp blood orange zest
| Preparation – Blood orangecello | inn a 2-quart pot, bring water and sugar to a boil. remove emove from heat and cool. Combine with vodka in a large container. add orange juice and peels. store tore in a cool, dry area for 2 weeks. remove peels and refrigerate until ready to make cake. | Preparation – Cake | preheat oven to 325°F. grease a bundt pan or 2 9-inch pans. in a large bowl, combine all ingredients and pour in prepared pan. bake for 55 minutes in bundt pan or 25 to 30 minutes in 9-inch pans. remove from oven and cool 15 minutes. | Preparation – Glaze | in a saucepan, add all ingredients and bring to a boil, stirring constantly, about 3 to 5 minutes. remove from heat and let glaze cool for 5 to 10 minutes. after cake has cooled, poke holes in cake and pour glaze over top. serve.
photography by skystorm /istoCk.Com
ingredients, Level 2 Steakhouse executive chef Jeff Luzius is not afraid to experiment in the kitchen. “as a chef, i believe the best way to motivate and inspire your culinary team is by allowing them to use items they don’t see every day,” says Luzius, who serves as the food and beverage director at both the hilton branson Convention Center hotel and hilton promenade at branson Landing, which includes executive chef duties at their restaurants. Luzius says blood oranges are always a crowd pleaser, especially paired with Champagne, and his blood orange mimosas were a huge hit on new year’s Day last year. hotel guests can also nosh on supremed blood oranges at breakfast in fresh fruit salads and yogurt parfaits. Luzius’ favorite blood orange dish is actually one he created for the back of the house after a long shift – fish tacos filled with a blood orange juice-ginger beer reduction and pickled onions, chiles, braised red cabbage, rare ahi tuna and lots of micro cilantro. “blood oranges add extreme eye appeal,” he says. “[they] have exceptional flavor depth.”
KAnsAs citY. “We go kind of crazy when we get
one on one
KC
david chouang co-owner, spices asian restaurant
WrITTen By PeTe DuLIn
NORTH KANSAS CITY, mO. David and Jessica Chouang opened their second
CAFE
photography by landon vonderschmidt
REET
Why did you choose to open a restaurant in North Kansas City? Jessica and I didn’t see any restaurants in this part of the city serving good Thai food. We thought it would be a good location. Do you only serve Thai food? We serve mostly Thai food, like pad thai and phat si-io noodles. We also serve the best dishes from Vietnam, Laos and China like fried spring rolls and pho, [but] we specialize in Thai. Tell us about the Laotian dishes on the menu. I was born in Laos but grew up in northern Thailand near the border. We do both a Thai-style and Laotian-style som tum papaya salad; the Thai version is more sweet and sour. In Laos, papaya salad has blue crab and more balanced, stronger flavors – spicy, sour and sweet. What are your signature dishes? Pad thai sells best, as well as chicken phad grapow and appetizers like crab rangoon and Thai sausage. We make our own sausage. For dessert, the mango and sticky rice cake drizzled with coconut milk is popular. How does Spices differ from your other restaurant, Bangkok Pavilion? We do more dishes at Bangkok Pavilion – the menu is bigger and has more variety. We have a lunch and weekend buffet that has more speciality dishes, especially on the weekend, like whole fried red snapper, tom kha gai (chicken soup with coconut milk and Thai ginger), ho mok pla (steamed fish in curry paste) and kanom jeen nam ya (noodles with fish curry). At Spices, we have the most popular Thai dishes. Tell us about the duck dishes at Spices. We have Thai-style duck noodle soup with roasted duck, thin egg noodles and green onion in broth, and -phad grapow with roasted duck, stir-fried fresh basil leaves, chiles and black pepper. How spicy is your food? We make milder food for American tastes. Ask us to make Thai-style for a more authentic, strong flavor.
T ND S GRA
restaurant, Spices Asian Restaurant, in June without much fanfare, instead concentrating on preparing good food and pleasing new customers. Word spread quickly, though, that Spices is serving up some of the best Thai food in the Kansas City area. As owners of Bangkok Pavilion in Overland Park, Kansas, for more than 20 years, the couple brings a wealth of experience to authentic dishes from the northeast region of Thailand, specifically Isan, which is known for its sticky rice, funky papaya salad, grilled fish and mild curry.
OIS AIX
More than 150 of the region’s top restaurants have come together for Kansas City’s premier dining event. Enjoy 10 days of multi-course menus at an extraordinary value. Visit KCRestaurantWeek.com for menus, reservations and a free mobile app.
Spices Asian Restaurant, 2417 Burlington St., North Kansas City, missouri, 816.221.0981, spicesasiannkc.com
Inspired Local Food Culture
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23
RegionaL RestauRant guide As proud supporters of Feast Magazine, we encourage you to visit any of these fine establishments. From fine dining to fast casual to local wineries, there are an array of experiences to choose from, so support and eat local!
1818 Chophouse
Café Ventana
Don Emiliano’s
Grünauer
210 S. Buchanan St. Edwardsville, IL 618.307.9300
3919 W. Pine Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.531.7500 cafeventana.com
8600 Veterans Memorial Parkway O’Fallon, MO 636.294.9255 donemilianos.com
4 Hands Brewing Co.
Chateau La Vin
EdgeWild Bistro & Tap
Hendricks BBQ
Chaz on the Plaza at the Raphael Hotel
EdgeWild Restaurant & Winery
Hodaks Restaurant & Bar
Citizen Kane’s Steak House
Evangeline’s Bistro
Cleveland-Heath
Fratelli’s Ristorante
1220 S. Eighth St. St. Louis, MO 314.436.1559 4handsbrewery.com
Augusta Winery
5601 High St. Augusta, MO 888.667.9463 augustawinery.com
Aunt Maggie’s
230 N. Main St. Columbia, IL 618.281.7894 auntmaggiesonmain.com
Aya Sofia
6671 Chippewa St. St. Louis, MO 314.645.9919 ayasofiacuisine.com
119 S. Main St. Columbia, IL 618.281.8117 chateaulavin.com
325 Ward Parkway Kansas City, MO 816.802.2152 raphaelkc.com
133 W. Clinton Place Kirkwood, MO 314.965.9005 citizenkanes.com
106 N. Main St. Edwardsville, IL 618.307.4830 clevelandheath.com
12316 Olive Blvd. Creve Coeur, MO 314.548.2222 edgewildbistro.com
550 Chesterfield Center Chesterfield, MO 636.532.0550 edgewildwinery.com
512 N. Euclid Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.367.3644 evangelinesstl.com
2061 Zumbehl Road St. Charles, MO 636.949.9005 fratellisristorante.com
101 W. 22nd St. Kansas City, MO 816.283.3234 grunauerkc.com
1200 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.8600 hendricksbbq.com
2100 Gravois Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.776.7292 hodaks.com
Huddle Bar & Grill
1101 Caseyville Road Caseyville, IL 618-855-8555
J McArthur’s - An American Kitchen 3500 Watson Road St. Louis, MO 314.353.9463 jmcarthurs.com
Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas
Corner Restaurant
Gallagher’s
Joe Boccardi’s
Café Sebastienne at Kemper Museum
Diablito’s
Garden Cafe Ala Fleur
King & I
325 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.3434 bellavinowinebarstl.com
4420 Warwick Blvd. Kansas City, MO 816.561.7740 kemperart.org
4059 Broadway Blvd. Kansas City, MO 816.931.4401 thecornerkc.com
3761 Laclede Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.644.4430 diablitoscantina.com
114 W. Mill St. Waterloo, IL 618.939.9933 gallagherswaterloo.com
524 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.493.6023 gardencafealafleur.com
Reach a hungRy audience of food LoveRs Promote your restaurant or winery in feast Magazine’s regional restaurant guide for $100/month.
117 S. Main St. Columbia, IL 618.281.6700 joeboccardis.com
3157 S. Grand Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.771.1777 kingandistl.com
feature d listing
$250
Klondike Café at Montelle Vineyard
201 Montelle Dr. at MO Hwy 94 Augusta, MO 636.228.4464 montelle.com
Patrick’s Westport Grill
342 Westport Plaza St. Louis, MO 314.878.6767 patrickswestport.com
Pizzabella
Schlafly Tap Room and Schlafly Bottleworks Multiple Locations schlafly.com
Seoul Taco
The Weingarten
1780 E. State Rte 15 Belleville, IL 618.257.9463 theweingarten.com
The Well
6665 Delmar Blvd. St. Louis, MO 1020 E. Broadway Columbia, MO seoultaco.com
Multiple locations llywelynspub.com
4000 Indian Creek Pkwy 914.341.7700 1810 Baltimore Ave 816.471.3300 pizzabellakc.com
LoRusso’s Cucina
Pizzino
Shrine Restaurant
Tiny’s Pub & Grill
Prasino
Summit Grill & Bar
1520 S. 5th St. St. Charles, MO 636.277.0202 prasinostcharles.com
4835 NE Lakewood Way Lees Summit, MO 816.795.7677 summitgrillandbar.com
Trattoria Giuseppe
Q39
Tannin Wine Bar
Truffles and Butchery
Reifschneider’s Grill & Grape
Tea Market
1543 McCausland Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.781.1299 olympiakebobandtaverna.com
329 E. 55th St. Kansas City, MO 816.822.9832 teamarketonline.com
Vin De Set
608 N. Main St. Columbia, IL 700 N. State St. Freeburg, IL grillandgrape.net
One More Cup
Righteous Pig Bar-B-Que
Teaspoons Café
Vintage Restaurant at Stone Hill Winery
Our Coffee House & Cafe
Ruth’s Chris Steak House
The Abbey
Webster House
315 Chestnut St. St. Louis, MO 314.259.3200
5801 W. Main St. Belleville, IL 618.277.8373 thebellevilleabbey.com
Pappy’s Smokehouse
Sanctuaria
The Jacobson
Wild Sun Winery
Llywelyn’s Pub
3121 Watson Road St. Louis, MO 314.647.6222 lorussos.com
7600 Wydown Blvd. Clayton, MO 314.240.5134 pizzinostl.com
Lucky Brewgrille
5401 Johnson Dr. Mission, KS 913.403.8571 luckybrewgrille.com
Mai Lee
8396 Musick Memorial Dr. Brentwood, MO 314.645.2835 maileestl.com
Olympia Kebob House and Taverna
7408 Wornall Road Kansas City, MO 816.994.3644 onemorecupkc.com
125 N. Rapp St. Columbia, IL 618.281.4554 ourcoffeehousecafe.com
3106 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.535.4340 pappyssmokehouse.com
key:
1000 W. 39th St. Kansas City, MO 816.255.3753 q39kc.com
124 E. Main St. Belleville, IL 618.520.8817 righteouspigbbq.com
4198 Manchester Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.535.9700 sanctuariastl.com
Winery
Illinois Missouri
7421 Broadway St. Kansas City, MO 816.361.1700 waldowell.com
602 N. Main St. Columbia, IL 618.281.9977 tinyscolumbia.com
442 S. De Mazenod Dr. Belleville, IL 618.394.6237 snows.org
5442 Old State Route 21 Imperial, MO 636.942.2405 trattoria-giuseppe.com
9202 Clayton Road St. Louis, MO 314.567.9100 todayattruffles.com
1526 Walnut St. Kansas City, KS 816.842.2660 tanninwinebar.com
2017 Chouteau Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.8989 vindeset.com
2125 S. State Rte 157 Edwardsville, IL 618.655.9595 teaspoonscafe.com
1110 Stone Hill Hwy Hermann, MO 573.486.3479 stonehillwinery.com
1644 Wyandotte St. Kansas City, MO 816.221.4713 websterhousekc.com
4830 Pioneer Road Hillsboro, MO 636.797.8686 wildsunwinery.com
2050 Central St. Kansas City, MO 816.423.2888 thejacobsonkc.com
St. Louis Kansas City
St. Charles County Columbia
140,000 copies are distributed across the region! Call Angie Henshaw @ 314.475.1298 to reserve your space today.
Discover Charles, Missouri Disc over | SSaint aint Char les, Mis souri
No November vember 27 ttoo DDecember ecember 24 24,, 2015
Where the Magic begins
Come watch the Santa Parade, Saturdays & Sundays at 1:30pm. Collect Character Cards from the Legends of Christmas and Santas from around the World. Enjoy Music by the Cobblestone Wassailiers and Sleigh Bell Singers. Visit the Chestnut Roasters on South Main.
FESTIVAL HOURS
Opening Day 11am to 9pm Wednesdays and Fridays 6:30 to 9pm Saturdays 11am to 9pm // Sundays Noon to 5pm Christmas Eve 11am to 2pm
For a complete listing of festival events visit StCharlesChristmas.com // 636-946-7776 // 800-366-2427
Celebrate New Years Eve Turkish Style Three delicious courses for $49.99. Wine pairings selected by our sommelier available for every course. New Year's Eve Dinner served from 5pm until midnight. Stay for dancing and cocktails until 1:30am. Please call 314-645-9919 or visit our website www.ayasofiacuisine.com to make reservations
6671 Chippewa Street • St. Louis • 314.645.9919 • ayasofiacuisine.com
we’re moving! you’re saving 40- 60% MOVING SALE BEGINS NOV. 20, 10 - 5 PM. CLOSED NOV.19 Dau Neu is MOVING! After hearing your feedback we have decided to move the Dau Neu Brand and Product to a more convenient location. The Wildwood location will be closing at the end of 2015. Beginning 2016, the Dau Neu brand will have a display inside of Dau Furniture in Ellisville. But first, we must sell all our present Dau Neu inventory! You will SAVE 40-60% on great products* just in time for the holidays. This moving sale is your chance to save!
The Next Generation of Style™
*Photos represent the types of furniture that will be at the moving sale. Some items may be in a different finish or fabric than shown.
Dau Neu 16966 Manchester Rd, Wildwood, MO 63040 636 405 2400 dauneu.com 26
feastmagazine.com
DECEMBER 2015
where we’re drinking
sip this sweet seasonal treat on p. 32 PHOTOGRAPHy by sTARbOARd & PORT cReATive
trending now: SpeakeaSieS
on trend
Written by nancy StileS PhotograPhy by judd demaline
If you wanted to get a drink between 1920 and 1933, you had to do it illegally – often in a speakeasy offering hot jazz and cool drinks with the help of passwords, back doors and hidden passages. You can get a taste of the Roaring ‘20s at modern speakeasies; social media makes it easy to track down a password and enjoy an intimate cocktail.
stl
art deco
ST. LOUIS. although it originally housed an eastman Kodak co. camera store, the thaxton building in downtown St. louis was built in 1928 in an art deco style practically begging to house a glamorous speakeasy. the historic building was restored 18 years ago and serves as a multilevel event space. “there is some mystery as to what they used that lower level for,” says co-owner Kim Pitliangas of the space where Thaxton Speakeasy now does business. come by on thursday nights for the full Prohibition experience, when 1920s costumes are encouraged and local musicians play a blend of hot jazz, swing, and rhythm and blues. thaxton Speakeasy is open thursday, Friday and Saturday nights (barring private events). come with the weekly password, found on its website, and head into the alley to ring the doorbell. once you descend the staircase, sip on moonshine infused in-house with seasonal flavors.
Thaxton Speakeasy, 1009 Olive St., Downtown, St. Louis, Missouri, thaxtonspeakeasy.com
como
midcentury mod
COLUMBIA, MO. unless you’ve been to The Social Room, it can be a little hard to find. there is no signage – just a ’50s-style beauty parlor, lips & curls. enter the foyer, pick up the pay phone and supply the password. the next step is finding the unmarked door that leads you down a hallway to either an intimate lounge or its music venue, the rockitorium. “We went with a ’50s and ’60s theme to go with the beauty parlor up front, which is midcentury modern,” says owner jesse garcia. garcia opened the Social room in april with his wife, heather, who runs lips & curls. She needed a small space for her salon, and with garcia’s bar experience – he also owns nearby roxy’s – a speakeasy seemed like a good fit. a list of featured cocktails comes out every thursday, or you can snag a local draft beer and a shot of whiskey for $5.
The Social Room, 220 N. Eighth St., Downtown, Columbia, Missouri, 573.397.6442, thesocialroomcomo.com
Kc
rustic chic
LEE’S SUMMIT, MO. to get into The W, the first thing you have to do is send a text message. the private second-story space in lee’s Summit, missouri, is almost always reservation-only, so your requested date and time is secured via text. When you arrive, the door is at an angle and can only be seen from one side. Spot the sign for dr. Woods and ring the bell; once your name is confirmed, you’ll be greeted at the top of the stairs. there are rules, though: you must refrain from cursing, hooting and hollering. dress for the occasion. Sit down, and general manager and head barman mike Strohm will help you pick your poison. “i try to make everything – i want to showcase what we make in-house with each drink,” Strohm says. “We do infused spirits with ingredients i grow myself or get from someone nearby.” the winter menu is coffee- and tea-focused, including the hopped crusta, made with hugo tea co.’s berry rooibos tea-infused cognac, wild hops-infused orange liqueur, maraschino liqueur, lemon juice and house orange bitters. When you’re ready to leave, head down a hallway in the back of the building and press the illuminated red button. When it turns green, you’re good to go.
The W, 6½ Third St., Downtown, Lee’s Summit, Missouri, 816.287.0000, thew.bar
oNe oN oNe
Kc
scott kalwei owner, ruins pub Written by Macy SalaMa
KANSAS CITY. Scott Kalwei, owner of
photography by alistair tutton
Ruins Pub, took a nontraditional approach to designing his bar. located in Kansas city’s crossroads arts District, ruins Pub features eccentric décor, a laidback atmosphere and a self-serve pouring system. you start a tab, pick and pour your beer and then pay by the ounce, making it easy to sample from the variety of craft beer options and setting ruins Pub apart from the rest of Kansas city’s bar scene. there are 40 craft brews available on tap, along with a full bar, creative cocktails and a food menu. How did the idea for Ruins Pub’s self-serve system come about? it started when i left the country after quitting my job [as an engineer at Ford]. i went to the czech republic and taught english there. On my birthday, we went to a place called the Pub, and they had self-pour beer. i posted on Facebook, “the best birthday present in the world would be if when i come back to the States, this would be legal and we could do it.” all my friends commented telling me i was an idiot because the self-pour system was in atlanta and chicago and all over – just not in Kansas city. So at that point, i knew that was what i wanted to do, with the theme of my bar being based off of budapest bars. i wanted to bring the two ideas together to Kansas city. i figured the arts District would be the perfect place for it. it took about three months of renovation, three months of shopping around and developing a menu, and then we opened. How do you choose the beers offered at Ruins? We have four local distributors, plus one out of St. louis. We don’t have an overall strategy when picking the beers – i just listen to my customers and distributors. We like to get the things not too many people have. We have a lot of local beers, but we don’t have enough local to fill 40 caps, so we have beers from all over. Does the Budapest theme carry over to the food menu? When i was originally looking for a bar, i wanted a super small kitchen with only four or five Hungarian dishes, but then i thought about it and realized i don’t know anybody who really knows these dishes – i didn’t know if people would order them. We ended up getting a bigger space with a full kitchen. We have lángos, deep-fried flatbreads available in sweet or savory options, and goulash soup with beef, bacon, paprika, caraway and egg noodles as our main Hungarian dishes. We carry some other, more familiar items, too. Any future plans? We’re meeting with local artists to figure out how to make this place weirder. We want to get more installations, and on the technology side i have big plans for the [beer] database. i want to make our customers feel more involved in the beer selection. Ruins Pub, 1715 Main St., Crossroads Arts District, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.599.6667, ruinspubkc.con
Inspired Local Food Culture
december 2015
29
the mix
The AlexAnder One of the most interesting things about The Alexander is that it was one of the first cocktails created as a marketing tool and set a precedent for future gimmicks like the Moscow Mule, the Twentieth Century and the Cosmopolitan. However, the drink wasn’t created to advertise a liquor brand or any consumable product; instead, it was popularized in conjunction with a fictional character, Phoebe Snow, to promote a railroad company around the turn of the 20th century. During those days, riding on a train was the mode of transportation. Unfortunately, convenience came at a cost. The smoke coming from engine stacks was notorious for leaving soot on people’s clothes – passenger cars usually sported open windows thanks to a lack of air conditioning. The solution was “clean coal,” otherwise known as anthracite, which didn’t produce the excess soot of everyday coal. Delaware, Lackawanna & Western Railroad Co. (DL&W), an East Coast line, had almost exclusive access to anthracite and marketed itself as such. Its mascot, Phoebe Snow, was an attractive woman who rode the train often in a white dress, which of course remained spotless. DL&W hosted a promotional dinner and wanted to serve a signature drink. The bartender that evening was Troy Matt Seiter is co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program, author of The Dive Bar of Cocktail Bars, bartender at BC’s Kitchen and a bar and restaurant consultant.
STORy AnD RECIPE By MATT SEITER PHOTOgRAPHy By JOnATHAn gAyMAn
Alexander, who was charged with the task of concocting said libation. He wanted to stick with the white-dress idea and made a cocktail that was “a frothy, cream-colored drink that left a sense of cool white fire in the throat.” His creation was equal-parts gin, crème de cacao and sweetened cream, shaken with ice, served in a cocktail glass and dusted with nutmeg. The cocktail bore its creator’s name, and the railroad promotion made the drink a classic, with bartenders recreating it in their own establishments across the country. Thanks to new technology, corporate restaurant bastardization and ever-changing tastes, we now associate the drink with ice cream, brandy and a blender. I do not condone that approach. Made in the fashion of yesteryear, the drink is not overly cloying or thick. There are fewer calories, too, and it doesn’t sit as heavy in the stomach. It’s the perfect way to end an evening. Even though I tend to lean toward aged spirits in my drinks, this one is better with gin. I like the way botanical notes from gin play with the sweetness of the chocolate liqueur and smooth cream – something aged spirits such as brandy can’t do. However, The Alexander made with brandy is quite pleasing – just don’t use ice cream.
The Alexander (made with half-and-half)
Serves | 1 |
1 oz gin 1 oz white crème de cacao 1 oz half-and-half ice nutmeg, freshly grated (for garnish)
| Preparation | Combine all ingredients except ice and nutmeg in a cocktail shaker. Add ice, shake and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Sprinkle nutmeg on top for garnish. Serve.
The Alexander (made with heavy cream)
Serves | 1 |
1¼ oz gin 1 oz white crème de cacao ½ oz heavy cream ice nutmeg, freshly grated (for garnish)
| Preparation | Combine all ingredients except ice and nutmeg in a cocktail shaker. Add ice, shake and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Sprinkle nutmeg on top for garnish. Serve. Gin. I’d lean toward a softer gin for this cocktail. Most London Dry gins will have too much juniper for the drink, which will overpower the other botanicals. I’d recommend Plymouth gin, Bombay Sapphire, north Shore Distiller’s gin no. 6, Aviation and Two Bird Artisan Spirits’ greyling Modern Dry gin. All have that soft touch of juniper that pairs best with the chocolate notes and cream. Crème de CaCao. Whichever brand you use, make sure it’s the white or clear style. The brown style will turn the drink a murky mud color. Marie Brizard is my go-to, but Bols and DeKuyper work just as well. Cream. Although the original recipes
call for sweetened cream, I think there’s enough sweetness in crème de cacao to suffice. Half-and-half makes a thinner drink and is more suitable to the equal-parts recipe. Heavy cream can be used but is a bit thicker, muting the gin and cacao a bit.
on the shelf : december picks
WINE
stonehaus FaRMs wineRy’s MissouRi PoRt written by Hilary HeDGeS provenance: lee’s Summit, Missouri pairings: Dark chocolate • Pecan pie • Ice cream
Made from estate-grown Cynthiana grapes (commonly known as norton) and aged in charred bourbon barrels, the Missouri port from Stonehaus Farms Winery is deep and dark in color. it has aromas and flavors of chocolate, black cherry, raspberry and spice. owner-winemaker brett euritt has used the Spanish aging process solera since 2007, which means that fractions of port from each of the previous years are blended with the newest vintage to achieve a rich, complex flavor that lingers on the palate. in 30 years, some of the 2007 vintage will still be in the port produced.
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book your selfie station in St. Louis ● Kansas City Springfield ● Branson ● Columbia
Stonehaus Farms Winery, 816.554.8800, stonehausfarms.com Hilary Hedges is a former newsie whose passion for wine led her out of the newsroom and into the cellar. She is currently the director of sales and marketing and assistant winemaker at Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City’s West Bottoms.
BEER
CRooked stave’s suRette written by branDon niCKelSon
O P E N D A I LY 1 2 P M T O 6 P M
style: Provision saison (6.2% ABV) pairings: Citrusy salads • Seafood dishes
Crooked Stave is a small craft brewery in Denver making some big waves among beer enthusiasts. Sought out for its delicate, rustic saisons and wild-fermented IPAs, Crooked Stave has become known as a preeminent sour producer in the region. one of the annually available favorites is Surette. the saison is wood-aged and fermented with wild yeast strains, resulting in a round tartness that is extremely easy to drink. light in color and in body, this brew is a must-try. Crooked Stave, 720.550.8860, crookedstave.com Brothers Brandon and Ryan Nickelson are available to help with beer picks and pairing recommendations at their store, Craft Beer Cellar, the only all-craft beer shop in the St. Louis area. Craft Beer Cellar is located at 8113 Maryland Ave. in Clayton, Missouri. To learn more, call 314.222.2444 or visit craftbeercellar.com/clayton.
SPIRIT
J. RiegeR & Co.’s MidwesteRn dRy gin written by Matt Sorrell
provenance: Kansas City (46.1% abV) try it: Sip it neat to appreciate the botanicals, then try it with
your favorite tonic and lime.
J. Rieger & Co. made quite an impression with the debut of its Kansas City whiskey last year. that spirit is a hard act to follow, but the distillery has come up with another winner with its Midwestern Dry Gin. this project is a collaboration with tom nichol, retired tanqueray master distiller, and his skilled hand is evident in the final product. there’s candied citrus peel on the nose that also hits the tongue but quickly dissipates, and some delicate floral notes along with the requisite juniper, which isn’t as omnipresent as expected in a dry gin. it’s available at restaurants, bars and retail establishments in Missouri and illinois. J. Rieger & Co., jriegerco.com When he’s not writing, Matt Sorrell can be found slinging drinks at Planter’s House in St. Louis’ Lafayette Square or bartending at events around town with his wife, Beth, for their company, Cocktails Are Go. Inspired Local Food Culture
december 2015
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where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, restaurants, breweries, wineries and coffee shops.
gram & dun
mo
WritteN by jeNNy vergara photography by LaNdoN voNderschMidt
KANSAS CITY. once lights are lit in Kansas city’s
country club plaza, there is no better place to go for a cup of good holiday cheer than bread & butter concepts’ sophisticated gram & Dun. With a bar scene that can go from cozy to raucous depending on the night of the week, gram & dun caters to a mature but fun crowd. Located on one of the most desirable corners of the plaza, the interior is covered in luxe golds, creams and dark brown. on warmer nights or when the heat lamps are running, head outside to enjoy the fireplaces glittering on the patio. behind the bar, in addition to a solid beer and wine list, there is a real dedication to delicious and seasonal cocktails without the pretension that too often comes with them. seasonal drinks from bread & butter concepts beverage director scott tipton include a
creamy new coffee cocktail, strange brew, featuring cold-brew coffee with bourbon, green chartreuse, averna amaro and an airy bananaflavored foam, served over ice with a side of sweetened condensed milk that guests can add to taste – perfect for a post-dinner pickme-up or enjoyed in place of dessert. highly recommended is gram & dun’s most popular cocktail, its seasonal Moscow Mule, now featuring dark horse distillery’s vanilla-infused rider vodka, pear liqueur, ginger beer and lime. Finally, seasonally rotating cocktails on tap are also being served – right now, get the tillerman, a take on the classic pimm’s cup with pimm’s No. 1, dry curaçao, ginger tea syrup and lemon. gram & Dun, 600 ward Parkway, Country Club Plaza, kansas City, Missouri, 816.389.2900, gramanddun.com
kc
elle’s patisserie written by ettie berneking
Elle’s Patisserie, 1454 E. Cherry St., Springfield, Missouri, 417.832.2171, ellespatisserie.com 32
feastmagazine.com
d e c e m b e r 2015
photography by starboard & port creative
SPRINGFIELD, MO. Forget about sugary candy canes and marshmallow-filled chocolate Santas for just a moment – there are more delicious treats to savor at Elle’s Patisserie in Springfield, Missouri. Specifically, we’re talking about the salted hot cocoa: sinfully rich melted chocolate is mixed with pops of sea salt and a pinch of hazelnut to create one of the best from-scratch hot cocoas you’ll ever have. to top it off, the holiday treat is crowned with owner elle Feldman’s housemade marshmallows. the pillowy treats melt slowly into the drink, adding a lovely, creamy layer. if you’re not into salty-sweet, don’t fret – elle’s serves several other delicious and equally popular hot cocoas. warm up with white chocolate-lavender, spicy cayenne, chocolate-peppermint with crushed candy canes or spiced chai hot chocolates. Settle in on one of the barstools by the front window and enjoy the snow-covered wonderland outside as the aroma of freshly baked macarons and chocolate-drizzled croissants wafts past.
photography by hannah foldy
stl
SHARE THE #ARTOFYOU
reeds american table
2938 State Highway K, O’Fallon (Behind Steak & Shake)
636-978-7870
www.krekeler.com
Written by Mabel Suen
MAPLEWOOD, MO. at Reeds American Table, which opened in September, chefowner Matthew daughaday offers a family-style atmosphere executed with the refinement of a fine-dining restaurant. to translate the comforting new american concept behind the bar, he’s rounded out his team with a set of talented beverage experts. enter andrey ivanov, formerly of elaia and olio, an award-winning certified sommelier who leads a staff of seasoned, specialized drink experts. reeds’ extensive beverage list does more than simply quench thirst; it aims to provide context for each and every selection with personal, experiential touches. the menu begins with aperitifs and house cocktails, including the puddle Jumper made with el dorado dark rum, hamilton Jamaican rum, Campari, the big o ginger liqueur and lime juice. featured draft and bottled beers come complete with detailed tasting and origin notes, followed by a separate list of ciders and canned beers. a lengthy, well-informed wine guide features varieties from all over the world, available over dinner or to go. presented in a similarly informative fashion, spirits are broken down by category. a nonalcoholic menu features high-quality coffee from thou Mayest Coffee roasters in Kansas City and tea options curated with help from St. louis-based retrailer in addition to a few housemade refreshments – all familiar, stimulating choices that will make visitors feel right at home.
Reeds American Table, 7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood, Missouri, 314.899.9821, reedsamericantable.com
SOLE SURVIVOR Now In
Makers of Fine Leather Goods
Wallets $58-$78
MAPLEWOOD 7312 Manchester Rd
the “Sarah” $95
Maplewood, MO
314-932-1475
Belts $56 and up
Weekdays 10-6 & Saturday 10-5 Authorized Dealer
Inspired Local Food Culture
december 2015
33
drink destination: liberty, Mo.
belvoir winery written by Pete Dulin
liberty, Mo. Belvoir Winery, located on the
Jesse leimkuehler, whose family owns the nearly 5-year-old winery in liberty, Missouri, manages operations for the winery, event space and forthcoming nine-bedroom inn. belvoir’s tasting room is open seven days a week; leimkuehler hosts free tastings and shares notes about the winery’s on-site production, bottling at les bourgeois Vineyards and wines like boo’s, a portstyle dessert wine with chocolate, cherry and blackberry flavors made with norton grapes and Missouri brandy. Belvoir Winery, 1325 Odd Fellows Road, Liberty, Missouri, 816.200.1811, belvoirwinery.com
one on one
PHOtOgraPHy by Jana Marie PHOtOgraPHy
grounds of the former Odd Fellows Home District, has a lively history tied to “spirits” as much as wine. the property encompasses several buildings including a former hospital and care facility for the elderly and children, widows and orphans of members of the Order of Odd Fellows. belvoir has a long reputation as one of the most haunted sites in the state. this was bolstered by a visit from a paranormal investigation team featured on SyFy’s Ghost Hunters in June 2013; travel Channel’s Ghost Adventures team also filmed an episode that aired in October.
three must-try wines at belvoir winery | 1 | belvoir’s full-bodied norton is a fine example of the native Missouri grape’s potential for wine. Violet and spicy earth aromas are complemented by peppery notes and rich berry flavors. this dark purple wine is dry with a light tannin finish.
| 2 | light in color, the casanova red blend delivers juicy berry flavor, a medium body and a soft finish. it’s a crowd-pleaser that will appeal to a moderate palate, made from Missouri Chambourcin, California Syrah and sweet Missouri St. Vincent grapes.
stl
kateri meyer owner, traveling tea WRitten By Bethany ChRistO
MAPLEWOOD, MO. Kateri Meyer is a vocal
advocate for good tea. in the st. Louis area, you can find her sharing her passion and knowledge at her shop, Traveling Tea, in Maplewood, Missouri, and at local farmers’ markets. this month you can purchase her teas and tea gifts at her storefront, the schlafly Winter Market, the tower Grove Winter Market, Kakao Chocolate, Local harvest Grocery and through her website. she also hosts periodic sunday direct-trade tea tastings at traveling tea and private tastings for up to six people at the shop or in your home.
feastmagazine.com
d e c e m b e r 2015
easily translate to tea. Plus, it pairs just as well with food, which is also a great idea when planning holiday parties for those who want more nonalcoholic options. What do you recommend to first-time tea drinkers and, conversely, to tea fanatics? For brand-new tea drinkers, we always ask them what they’re drinking now or what they’re hoping to replace with tea. We ask them what flavors they like. they often think they don’t have specific interests, but as you ask more questions, preferences come out – i like fruity, or i don’t like spicy. For the experienced tea drinkers, they know what they like, so it’s a matter of finding something similar to that or broadening their horizons. a really exciting thing we’ve been able to do in the last six months is direct-trade tea. the company we work with, tealet, travels to the tea-growing regions and brings back these handcrafted teas, very similar to the coffee movement. the farmers get around 60
percent of the cut versus [the usual] 10 percent. they come in ½-ounce tins and make great gifts – you pay twice as much, but you’ll get three times more tea out of one bag since you can steep it again and again. We stock this fabulous pu-erh direct-trade fermented tea that has a special Chinese herb to make it taste just like sticky rice. With hundreds of tea varieties available at the shop, how do customers find the one for them? We sell as little as a 2 teaspoon trial size, to make a 16-ounce mug of tea, or a 1-ounce option (making eight to 23 cups), which is really unheard of in the tea world with its standard 2-ounce minimum. it’s important to me to have a variety of tea in
my cabinet at home, and i find that’s what most of my customers want, too. a pound of coffee makes 40 cups, but a pound of tea makes 200 cups, so people tend to accumulate tea if you’re buying it in normal portions. Do you have a personal favorite? there’s a turmeric blend that took us a year to develop, where we added coriander and fennel and other spices to balance the spice with sweet. it makes a really nice cream tea – adding milk to tea – that’s used in Kakao Chocolate’s molded truffle with a gorgeous semisweet white chocolate ganache filling. i also love our pumpkin tea, which went on sale mid-October and goes until i get tired of making it, which is usually in December. i roast and dehydrate local pumpkins; it’s the only pumpkin tea in the country that i’m aware of that uses actual pumpkins rather than pumpkin flavoring. What’s the best way to enjoy tea from Traveling Tea? there’s nothing better in my mind than waking up sunday morning to a hearty cup of my ancient Forest or Golden halo black teas. Life’s too short to drink bad tea. if you have bad tea, use it as a fridge deodorizer or in potpourri – the good stuff just makes such a big difference in your life. Traveling Tea, 2707 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, Missouri, 314.647.8832, traveling-tea.com
PHOtOgraPHy by natalie HinDS
Tell us about the St. Louis tea scene. My customers are such a broad mix, but people who moved here from the coasts or other countries often come in with the most knowledge. Usually they’re in culture shock because of the lack of tea options available locally. a lot of people first come in who are trying to switch off of coffee or soda – and that’s usually for a health reason. something that i’d like to change in st. Louis is incorporating more restaurants and bars that serve really good tea – not just bags sitting next to an urn of hot water. Often there are crafted coffee drinks on a menu, and this can
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| 3 | naked pink is a luscious, semisweet rosé made with Catawba grapes, which are native to Missouri. the wine has bold fruit flavor and a sweet finish that pairs well with roasted chicken, pork chops or sweet barbecue.
Let Us Cater Your Holiday Party! Chi Mangia Bene Vive Bene! "To Eat Well is To Live Well" Proudly Serving Authentic Italian Food in a Family Atmosphere. Party Pans To Go! Make Your Holiday Party and New Year’s Eve Reservations Early! Need to feed a crowd? Try our party pans for a delicious meal for any size group! Featuring Daily Lunch & Dinner Specials
Giuseppe and the Prezzavento Family
Reservations Recommended, Hours of Operation: Tuesday - Saturday 11am-10pm • Sunday Noon-9pm • Closed Monday
5442 Old Hwy 21• Imperial • 636.942.2405 • trattoria-giuseppe.com
Open New Year’s Eve Interactive Comedy Murder Mystery
A Christmas Sleigh-ing” Come celebrate your holiday with us as we try to unravel the truth behind the song, “Grandma got Run Over by a Reindeer.” Was it reindeer? Or did someone want the old lady DEAD and just make it look like a reindeer accident? In all our years of doing murder mystery shows, we have found, it’s never the reindeer! Help Fred Scrooge and Granny track down the killer while you enjoy a 4-course meal to DIE for! Who knows? The killer might even be YOU! Call for reservations today at 314-533-9830
4426 Randall Place • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com
King & I Holiday Gifts for our Customers Between 12/1/15 & 1/3/16 Purchase a $50 Gift Card and Receive a $5 Gift Card for yourself! Purchase a $100 Gift Card and Receive a $20 Gift Card for yourself!
Between 12/22/15 & 1/3/16 FREE BOTTLE OF CHAMPAGNE when you spend $100. (Dine In Only. Must be 21) (Champagne can not be taken to go)
Customer Appreciation is on December 31, 2015 Dine in and receive a $5 Gift Card FREE for every table. One $5 Gift Card per table. Not valid on date gift card is issued. Expires three months from date issued. Dine in Only for lunch and dinner.
3155 South Grand • St. Louis • 314.771.1777 • kingandistl.com
Furniture Repaired, Furniture Refinished 5 Year Workmanship Guarantee Quality Craftsmanship • Refinishing • Reupholstery Antique Restoration Repair • Custom Made Draperies Custom Made Furniture • New Furniture • Antiques Monday - Friday 8am - 4:30pm Appointments & Service Available
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4821 Fairview Ave., St. Louis • 314.832.1555 • zollingerfurniture.com Inspired Local Food Culture
DECEMBER 2015
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DECEMBER 2015
shop here
pick up artisan pottery on p. 40 PhotograPhy by cheryl waller
sHop HErE
KC
zoomin market
WRiTTen BY JennY VeRgARA | PhOTOgRAPhY BY WilliAM heSS
oLatHE, Ks. Zoomin Market is a locally owned and operated digital grocery store,
where you can order and pay for all of your groceries online and then pick them up on-site. The concept was launched by chief executive officer John Yerkes and president Matt Rider, two friends and grocery-industry veterans, who knew that there had to be a better way for busy families to shop for the items they need. Since opening last year, Zoomin Market has slowly been converting customers to this new model of grocery shopping. After you order and pay online, you can pick up groceries between 8am and 8pm at the Olathe, Kansas, location within 48
hours. There are approximately 10,000 products to shop from on Zoomin Market’s website, including Kansas City favorites Shatto Milk Co. milk and Fiorella’s Jack Stack Barbecue ribs. Most items are priced the same as traditional grocery stores, and there aren’t any hidden fees associated with tipping or pickup. When you arrive, a drive-thru kiosk will tell you which parking spot to pull into, and within minutes, employees will load your grocery order directly into your car. Zoomin Market, 12203 S. Strang Line Road, Olathe, Kansas, 913.210.1495, zoominmarket.com
artisan product
stl
WRiTTen BY BeThAnY ChRiSTO
HartsBurG, Mo. When Terry Durham began farming in 1978, he
wanted to grow healthy, nutritious food on his land in Hartsburg, Missouri. He eventually landed on elderberries due to their high levels of iron and many vitamins and antioxidants. His subsequent River Hills Harvest brand of elderberry products are made with sustainably grown, certified organic elderberries. In addition to its elderberry jelly and Throat Coat with honey, cinnamon and cloves, the 100 percent pure elderberry juice is River Hills Harvest’s top-selling product. Made with only elderberry juice and citric acid, try adding 2 tablespoons to flavor hot or cold beverages – juice, tea, water – or add a splash to holiday cocktails for sweetness and a deep purple color. Plus, the juice provides an immune system boost for fighting pesky flu and cold symptoms as the weather gets colder this month. River Hills Harvest, Hartsburg, Missouri, 573.326.9454, riverhillsharvest.com
PhOTOgRAPhY BY JACKlY JACKlYn l n MeYeR lY
river hills harvest ‘s elderberry juice
culinary liBrary
Food giFT Love written by nancy stiles
PhotograPhy by heidi murPhy
maggie battista is a habitual gifter of homemade, small-batch food. she launched her blog, eat boutique, in 2007 and was soon shipping her creations around the country. her new book on the topic, Food Gift Love, features more than 100 recipes to make, wrap and share in that same spirit. Partly inspired by her mother, an immigrant who was determined to become an exemplary american housewife, battista illustrates the importance of hospitality in a digital world. Food Gift Love lays out not just recipes, but also what to keep in your pantry in case you need to whip up a last-minute gift, instructions for diy gift wrap and flow-chart suggestions for different occasions and recipients. chapters are organized by recipe type – fresh gifts, baked gifts, preserved gifts – and then from there range from basic to more difficult. learn to make raspberry vinegar, jam-swirled marshmallows, minty pickles and more in Pinterest-perfect packaging that your friends and family are sure to love. By Maggie Battista hmhco.com
one on one
stl
fred domke founder, bridge bread
Written by nancy stiles
ST. LOUIS. social justice work can be delicious –
PhotograPhy by mabel suen
just ask Fred Domke, founder of Bridge Bread and its new st. louis storefront, Bridge Bread Bakery. although the goodies are actually made in bridge bread’s commercial kitchen in the carondelet neighborhood, you can pop into its first retail shop, a 300-square-foot storefront on cherokee street that opened in July, and choose from 15 different products including cinnamon rolls, bread bowls, sourdough loaves, brioche rolls and more. bridge bread has been helping those without safe and stable housing learn work skills since 2011 and currently employs six part-time bakers; Domke, his wife, sharon, and volunteers also help bakers find housing through HomeFirst stl, take care of outstanding warrants, procure bus passes and more. bridge bread products are served in about 25 area churches every weekend; you can also find it at lucky’s Market in rock Hill and on the menus at nearby elaine’s and lilly’s Music & social House. Where did the idea for Bridge Bread come from? i go to lafayette Park United Methodist church, which is very social-justice oriented, and the pastor held an eight-week discussion series on the ethical issues of poverty in 2011. it was a great discussion, but when it was over, sharon and i said, “now what?” i’m a business guy, so i wanted to do something with jobs, but we couldn’t figure out what. My wife went away for a weekend, and i decided to make bread. that night i had a dream i was at the homeless center making bread with the homeless and thought, “OK, i got instructions, lord; thank you.” Where do you find your bakers? We take referrals from social-service agencies [like the bridge Outreach and Kingdom House]. We ask for someone who otherwise could not obtain employment but has the potential of being successful. We are perfectly OK if somebody has a criminal record, as long as it’s not a violent
crime. if they have substance addiction, we want it to be under treatment. People think folks are homeless because they’re drunks and addicts or because they’re mentally ill, but about 80 percent are economically homeless. they’re no different than you and me. they’ve had some bad breaks and maybe made some bad choices. it can happen to just about anybody. What’s your signature product? the XXXX chocolate roll [named for the four types of chocolate used in it]. We use Hershey’s cocoa powder to make a chocolate dough, put Hershey’s chocolate chips in it and when we roll it out, we use brown sugar and more Hershey’s cocoa powder for the streusel. then we ice it with cocoa-flavored chocolate frosting, so it’s XXXX cocoa. it’s strongly chocolatey – you need a glass of milk with it. What’s next for the organization? the church thing is going to grow by word of mouth. lucky’s is definitely expecting us to go into its ellisville store, as well. the shop’s business is overwhelmingly from the neighborhood, which means there’s no reason we couldn’t have a shop in every other neighborhood. i’d love to have a retail shop in the south Grand area. i think we could even support 20 or more [bakers]. What do you hope people take away from the bakery? the bakers love their jobs even though it’s hot, they’re on their feet and they usually work more than eight hours. they’re very proud of the art of what they’re doing. they motivate one another for quality control and good work habits – we really have a positive culture going on. it’s really important that people understand that our bakers are not pathetic – not anymore – they’re proud. this isn’t some “make work” job. they’re earning it and doing a good job and making good bread. Bridge Bread Bakery, 2604 Cherokee St., Cherokee Business District, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.296.3077, bridgebread.org
“This isn’T some ‘make work’ job. They’re earning iT and doing a good job and making good bread.” 39 Inspired Local Food Culture
DECEMBER 2015
Shop here
stl
edibles & essentials St. louiS. The name of chef Matthew Borchardt’s new artisan shop and café gets right to the point. Edibles & Essentials, which opened in October in the St. Louis Hills neighborhood, offers a range of “essential” artisan products and “edibles” – namely small plates, larger entrées and charcuterie boards.
The walls of the shop are lined with artisan food and drink products including seasonings, rubs, jams, jelly, sauces, pasta, spirits, wine and more. An assortment of international flavors are represented, from Aura Chilean olive oil and Japanese yuzu mayonnaise to regional favorites such as Excel Bottling Co. sodas; preserves from Quince & Apple in Madison, Wisconsin; and lime juice cocktail mixers from Barsmith. “It’s a mix of gourmet provisions that I feel any good foodie or home cook should have in [his or her] pantry,” Borchardt says. “The whole place represents all parts of the
Three MusT-Trys aT edibles & essenTials WrITTEN By HEATHEr rISKE pHOTOgrApHy By CHEryL WALLEr
globe in both the café side and menu side.” Chalkboard menus hanging above an open kitchen list small and large plates, as well as mix-and-match charcuterie boards featuring a selection of salumi, cheese, nuts, pickles, olives, chutneys, fruit and bread. Monthly changing small plates include beef chili, beet salad with oranges and fried cherry-smoked pork ribs, while entrées include a seasonal pork sandwich and meatloaf sandwich with Moroccan tomato sauce and smoked provolone on ciabatta from a New Jersey bakery. “We’re an artisan shop, and we want to reflect that in what we sell,” Borchardt says. “It’s all about good food and making people happy.” Edibles & Essentials, 5815 Hampton Ave., St. Louis Hills, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.328.2300, ediblesandessentials.com
get thiS gadget
mrs. gingerbread brown sugar keeper WrITTEN By LAUrA LAIBEN, “THE MAIN DISH,” THE CULINAry CENTEr Of KANSAS CITy, KCCULINAry.COM
Here’s a simple solution to all the brown sugar that’s become hard as a rock in your cabinet: Simply soak this festive clay figure in water for about 20 minutes and stick it in with your brown sugar, and it will stay moist for more than three months. It also works well with cookies, marshmallows and even dried fruit, and can be rinsed and reused again and again. For more information or to purchase the sugar keeper, visit hickitchen.com.
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feastmagazine.com
DECEMBER 2015
| 1 | Sweet and tangy, the Alabama-style ivory barbecue sauce from Lillie’s Q in Chicago adds a hint of Cajun spice to a blend of mayonnaise, apple cider vinegar and lime juice. Use it as a dressing for homemade coleslaw, or try it with the shop’s fried cherry-smoked pork ribs. | 2 | The shop sells rustic stoneware made by Borchardt’s brother Anthony, including cups, bowls, serving platters and olive oil decanters. | 3 | A popular large plate, banh mi tacos feature pork belly rubbed in salt, sugar and Chinese five-spice powder atop napa cabbage slaw with pickled vegetables tossed in a vinaigrette with a subtle kick from KimKim Korean hot sauce. A drizzle of housemade hoisin mayonnaise finishes off the tacos.
Helping the families of those who
MADE THE ULTIMATE SACRIFICE
for our safety.
photo courtesy that! inVentions
geT ThIS gAdgeT
spreadthat! butter knife written by laura laiben, “the Main Dish,” the culinary center of Kansas city, Kcculinary.coM
a literal cutting-edge design, the spreadthat! butter knife is made from an alloy of copper wrapped in a layer of titanium that transmits heat from your hand to the blade of the knife, making spreading cold butter straight from the refrigerator a breeze. For more information or to purchase the butter knife, visit thatinventions.com.
ArTISAN produCT
KC
frosted fig cookies at labruzzo’s sweet oven written by Jenny Vergara
KANSAS CITY. Vicki and Carol LaBruzzo, sisters and co-owners of LaBruzzo’s
Sweet Oven, are busy baking their famous from-scratch frosted fig cookies this month in their charming Italian bakery in the River Market neighborhood in Kansas City. Made with soft, buttery shortbread on the outside and a lightly spiced vanilla-and-fig filling, it’s impossible to eat just one of the frosted bite-sized squares. LaBruzzo’s Sweet Oven, 520 Walnut St., River Market, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.859.5556, facebook.com/LaBruzzos
A Safety Net with No Strings Attached
Started in 1959, The BackStoppers provides needed financial assistance and support to the spouses and dependent children of all police officers, firefighters and volunteer firefighters, and publicly-funded paramedics and EMTs in our coverage area who have lost their lives performing their duty. Donations are tax deductible. Send your check, payable to The BackStoppers to: The BackStoppers P.O. Box 795168, St. Louis, MO 63179-0700 OR Visit our website: www.backstoppers.org for more information and to make an online donation. Serving the following counties: In Missouri Franklin, Jefferson, Lincoln, Perry, Pike, St. Charles, St. Francois, St. Louis City, St. Louis County, Ste. Genevieve, Warren, Washington and Cape Girardeau
photography courtesy labruzzo’s
In Illinois Bond, Clinton, Madison, Monroe and St. Clair
Make a Difference. Become A BackStopper!
Join us at www.backstoppers.org Inspired Local Food Culture
december 2015
41
Restaurant
Quality Cookware for
Home Chefs • 5 Ply Clad Stainless Steel with an Aluminum Core
A great gift idea for the foodie in your life
V
ita Craft is a home-grown cookware manufacturer with deep roots in the Kansas City area. Each piece of their cookware is handcrafted in Kansas City by a manufacturing team, some of whom have been with the company for 30 years. Since 1939, Vita Craft has offered high quality cookware to chefs and private label lines. Today, the Commercial Cookware line is designed to appeal to professional chefs as well as serious home cooks who want to take their kitchen skills to the next level. Riveted handles, stainless steel construction, beautiful design and a lifetime warranty make this stovetop-to-oven line a wise investment as well as a culinary indulgence. If you have a foodie in your life, it’s the perfect holiday gift. Vita Craft offers the world’s finest cookware, made right here at home. Buy Local. Buy Vita Craft.
Features cook steadily and brown evenly Pans are manufactured with multiple
layers of metal to distribute heat more evenly in cooking and provide the consistent cooking temperature professional and home chefs require.
comfort grip and heat resistant handles A stainless steel heat guard helps dissipate heat before it reaches the handle where it is grasped and a longer handle design with special grip allow it to fit comfortably in your hand and easy to hold.
Buy Local This Holiday Season Available online at www.vitacraftcommercialcookware.com and from these local, gourmet retailers
The Culinary CenTer – 7920 Santa Fe Dr., Overland Park, KS The PoT raCk – 626 Cherokee St., Leavenworth, KS The Sundry – 1706 Baltimore Ave., Kansas City, MO ViTa CrafT – 11100 W. 58th St., Shawnee, KS 913-631-6265 | vitacraftcommercialcookware.com
42
feastmagazine.com
DECEMBER 2015
• Energy-Efficient - Does not require High Heat • Provides Even Heat Distribution • Ergonomic Grip for Comfort and Safety • Cast Stainless Steel Handles and Rivets for Strength • Drip-less pouring rims • Durable 400 Series Exterior • Sunray Interior – Easy to Clean • Oven and Broiler safe • Reverse Paneled bottom prevents rocking • Three-Year Commercial Warranty for Industrial/Restaurants
induction- compatible, waterless commercial cookware “Vapor seal” lids are designed to prevent heat and moisture from escaping when the lid is secured, which results in “waterless” cooking, which requires less heat and less pressure, while more vitamins and minerals are retained in the food.
• Gas, Electric, Halogen, Ceramic and Induction stovetops
e Lifetim y nt Warras for Applie se Home u
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sweet ideas
get rolling on p. 50 photography by cheryl waller
seed to table
Honey-Rosemary Glazed Roasted Vegetables
story and recipe by crystal stevens Photography by Jennifer Silverberg
As the chill of winter sets in, I find myself seeking out the last remaining fresh flavors of fall. Like farmers before us, my husband, Eric, and I have canned, preserved and pickled the season’s bounty and have stockpiled food for winter – the time when our gardens are barren. This time of year, fall roots and tubers make wonderful late-storage crops that can be enjoyed well into the spring. Before the first frost in October, we harvested greens, dug up tubers and cut cabbage and broccoli from the soil. Root crops were the last to be removed from the fields. Carrots, parsnips and turnips become sweeter after the frost, so we leave them in the ground just a little longer, anticipating the delicate sweetness the cold brings. Pitchfork to earth, we loosen the soil around the roots. And then, like magic, we
pull the frost-covered green tops out of the ground and the vibrant roots appear. Another late-fall favorite is burdock root, which is highly nutritious. Historically, such late-fall crops were harvested and stored in cool, dark root cellars. They also can be stored in sand, muslin, paper bags or even boxes. We don’t have a root cellar, so we wrap them in damp cloths and store them in our vegetable crisper. If you haven’t already stocked up for winter, don’t fret; you can find a plethora of locally grown late-storage crops at winter farmers’ markets. My favorite way to prepare roots and tubers is roasting them with a sweet and earthy honey-rosemary glaze. It’s healthy and highlights the flavors of the season, plus it makes a rustic and satisfying side dish for your holiday table.
Crystal Stevens is a farmer at La Vista CSA Farm on the bluffs of the Mississippi River in Godfrey, Illinois, where she farms with her husband, Eric. They have two children. Crystal is an advocate of integrating creativity into sustainability through writing, art, photojournalism and seed-to-table cooking. Find more of her work at growingcreatinginspiring.blogspot.com, which she created to launch her forthcoming book, Grow Create Inspire.
Honey-Rosemary Glazed Roasted Vegetables Serves | 6 to 8 | ½ stick butter ½ cup honey 4 sprigs fresh rosemary 12 small carrots, scrubbed 6 turnips, thinly sliced 6 parsnips, scrubbed 1 burdock root, peeled and boiled for 15 minutes, thinly sliced 1 large sweet potato, thinly sliced
| Preparation | Preheat oven to 450°F. In a small saucepan over low heat, heat butter, honey and rosemary. Simmer on low for 10 minutes or until butter has melted and slightly caramelized with honey. In a large mixing bowl, add remaining ingredients. Gently pour honey-rosemary glaze evenly over vegetables, reserving just a little bit. Lightly toss until vegetables are coated with glaze. In a large baking dish, pick out and layer sweet potatoes, burdock root and turnips in a spiral. Add carrots and parsnips on top and drizzle with remaining glaze. Transfer to oven and bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until tender and golden. Serve.
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Inspired Local Food Culture
DECEMBER 2015
45
mystery shopper
Meet: Orange blOssOM water open a bottle of orange blossom water, close your eyes and take a deep breath; before you know it, you’re strolling through the streets of seville. What Is It?
orange blossom water is just that: water distilled with the petals of bitter orange blossoms. although not as popular as rosewater in the U.s., it perfumes traditional Mediterranean, north african and european cakes and pastries such as baklava, basbousa and pompe a l’huile, a sweet french christmas bread. don’t mistake orange blossom water for orange extract: the latter is derived from orange peels and carries a heavier, more assertive flavor while the former is as airy and romantic as a springtime walk through a lush european garden.
What Do I Do WIth It?
the heady fragrance of orange blossom water works best when allowed to steam; start by adding a small amount (we’re talking a teaspoon or so) to your favorite cakes and pastries. the blank vanilla slate of a pavlova or meringue works well against the fragrant water, and the same holds true for dairybased sweets like whipped cream or ice cream. if you’ve had a ramos gin fizz, that hint of orange is from this magical ingredient: experiment with other cocktails, sodas, coffee or even water. Use it to scent still or sparkling water or dilute it to use as a refreshing hand wash. shortbread is another ideal use for orange blossom water: its long cook time gives the aroma time to build slowly and permeate the dessert. both the semolina flour and the pistachio in this recipe pair nicely with orange blossom water and add pleasing crumble and crunch.
Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as bon appétit, serious eats and america’s test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and in life.
story and recipe by shannon Weber photography by jennifer silverberg
Pistachio-Orange Blossom Shortbread serves | 12 | 1¼ ½ ¼ ¾ ½ 1 1¼ 2⁄3
cups unbleached all-purpose flour cup semolina flour tsp kosher salt cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature cup granulated sugar tbsp orange blossom water tsp pure vanilla extract cup roughly chopped pistachios
| Preparation | preheat oven to 300°f. in a medium bowl, add both flours and salt; whisk to blend. in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment, add butter and sugar and beat on high until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. scrape down bowl, add orange blossom water and vanilla extract and beat again until everything is incorporated. add flour mixture and stir on low until batter is just combined, scraping down sides of bowl, and add pistachios while continuing to stir on low until nuts are evenly distributed. transfer dough into center of a 9½inch metal tart pan with removable bottom. Using your hands or a spatula, press mixture evenly out to sides, smoothing top of dough when finished. poke holes all over top using tines of a fork; use a sharp knife to cut shallow lines in shortbread, making 12 triangles like pie pieces. bake for 55 minutes until shortbread is golden brown; remove and transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. slice shortbread in wedges using guidelines made prior to baking. serve with coffee or tea.
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the best homemade gift ideas
Written by Macy Salama
chocolate bark Melt and then spread
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chocolate on a cookie sheet to create bark. While chocolate is still melty, top it with ingredients like raisins, cranberries, almonds and pecans, crushed peppermint candy and more.
candy cane snack mix For a quick and delectable holiday gift, mix kettle corn, pretzels and small bits of peppermint into a Mason jar. Then wrap a bow around the jar, particularly one that coordinates with the colors of peppermint, for a festive touch. chile pecans Coated with salty or sweet seasoning, turn toasted pecans into a seasonal holiday gift. After toasting, pecans can be saved and stored in an airtight-container at room temperature for up to two weeks.
JOIN Catherine Neville and L’École Culinaire Program Director, Nicole Shuman in Feast Magazine’s Newest Production
white chocolate-cherry-almond fudge Fudge is a common treat during the holiday season; this holiday season, elevate the dessert with dried cherries and almonds for added texture and flavor.
chocolate covered pretzels
A classic sweet and salty flavor combination, chocolate covered pretzels are also easy to make. Simply dip pretzels into melted chocolate, and then roll them in sprinkles, crushed peppermint candy or nuts for added holiday flavor.
cranberry-fig shrub with balsamic vinegar and brown sugar Shrubs are oh-so on trend right now and are quick and easy to make at home.
Learn cooking techniques from two culinary experts.
Simply combine a sweetener like brown sugar, honey or granulated sugar with water and allow to simmer until sugar dissolves, then add the cranberry and figs and cook until fruit has reduced. Then just remove from heat, add balsamic vinegar and allow to cool. Package in colorful Mason jars and gift to friends for mixing into cocktails or stirred with cold water for a refreshing nonalcoholic treat.
hazelnut hot cocoa Layer all the ingredients of this classic holiday drink in a clear Mason jar for a fun and festive presentation. The layering of the cocoa, marshmallows and crushed peppermint on top will make the gift look as good as it tastes.
Airing now on feastmagazine.com
9811 S. 40 Drive, St. Louis, MO 63124 310 Ward Parkway, Kansas City, MO 64112 St. Louis: 314-587-2433 KC: 816-627-0100 Check out our upcoming public cooking classes at lecole.edu
Inspired Local Food Culture
DECEMBER 2015
47
menu options
Duck l’Own Duck is a rich, succulent centerpiece to serve friends and family for special occasions or just for Sunday dinner – and it’s really not difficult to roast. The name of this dish is an obvious play on the classic French dish, duck à l’orange, first coined while I was working at a catering company. Two words say it all: a chef’s recipe for duck, in all its tender and juicy glory.
STory anD recIpe by ScoTT Drake phoTography by JennIFer SIlverberg
Traditional duck à l’orange is topped with a sauce made of oranges and duck stock; in my recipe, the sauce is flavored with dry mustard, Worcestershire, hot sauce, ginger and more. Instead of using orange sections for garnish, I substitute grilled pineapple rings. I recommend serving the dish with a green salad with pears and pomegranates and a side of wild rice with snap peas and tomatoes.
chef’s tips BETTER THAN BUTTER. Duck fat has a silky mouthfeel, a
higher smoke point and will turn whatever you’re roasting to a golden brown. It’s a healthier fat than butter, as it’s rich with monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats.
ROUX 101. If you won’t be using your roux right away, remove it from heat, allow it to cool and then store it in the refrigerator, covered, until needed.
the menu • Green Salad with Pears and Pomegranates • Wild Rice with Snap Peas and Tomatoes • Duck l’Own • Cranberry Ice Cream with White Chocolate Chunks
LEARN MORE. In this class you’ll learn how to correctly sear duck breast and render the fat from under the skin. you’ll also learn how to make a roux to produce creamy sauces and gravies.
get hands-on: Join Feast Magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on thu., dec. 17, at 6pm at the des Peres, Missouri, location, to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $40 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com or call 314.909.1704.
Duck l’Own Serves | 4 | 2 2 2 ¼ 1 ½ ½ ¼ 2 2 ½ ¼ ¼ ½ ½ 1 8 ¼ ¼ 8
medium onions, chopped carrots, chopped ribs celery, chopped bunch parsley, washed duck, giblets removed and reserved tsp kosher salt tsp black pepper, divided tsp granulated garlic cups white wine sticks butter cup all-purpose flour tsp dry mustard tsp dried thyme tsp Worcestershire sauce tsp hot sauce tsp freshly grated ginger oz fresh bean sprouts cup soy sauce cup green onions ½-inch rings pineapple, grilled
| preparation | preheat oven to 375ºF. In a roasting pan, place onions, carrots and celery. Top with parsley and duck giblets. place duck, skin-side up, on top and season with salt, pepper and garlic. place pan in middle of oven and roast until breast skin separates from meat, about 1½ hours. remove from oven and drain liquid from duck cavity into roasting pan. When duck has cooled, remove breast skin and reserve. Slice breast meat in half with diagonal cuts to yield 4 pieces. reserve remaining duck meat for another use. Set aside. place roasting pan over direct heat and deglaze with wine, using a whisk to loosen fond from bottom. Strain pan drippings and reserve liquid. In a saucepan over medium heat, melt butter. add flour and whisk until consistency of wet sand forms. remove from heat and allow mixture to cool. Meanwhile, in a saucepan over medium-high heat, add strained pan liquid and bring to a simmer. add cooled roux, pepper, mustard, thyme, Worcestershire, hot sauce and ginger. cook until thick. adjust oven temperature to 350ºF. cut breast skin in half width-wise to yield 4 pieces. Transfer to a sheet pan, scraped-side down, and crisp in oven for 5 to 10 minutes. cool skin on a rack. Marinate sprouts, soy sauce and onions in a bowl for 15 minutes. Drain. on a sheet pan, cut 1 pineapple ring in half; arrange 1 inside other to form an “S” shape. add spoonful sprout mixture, then 1 quartered piece breast meat. repeat 3 times. cover with foil and roast in oven for 25 minutes. plate, top with sauce and skin. Serve.
TV
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In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to see Feast TV on Sat., Dec. 5 at 2pm; Mon., Dec. 7 at 1pm and Sun., Dec. 27 at 1:30pm. Feast TV will also air throughout the month on nineCREATE.
In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) on Sat., Dec. 19 at 2:30pm.
You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) on Thu., Dec. 24 and Sat., Dec. 26.
Feast TV will air in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) at 10am on Sat., Dec. 12.
Sweet! This month, Feast explores the pleasures of handmade confections and gets into the kitchen with four outstanding pastry chefs to uncover the secrets of making perfect peppermint meringue cookies, orange-pistachio torrone, rich brigadeiro and chocolate-dipped marshmallows with toasted coconut.
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Feast TV is presented by Missouri Wines with additional support from Whole Foods Market.
good cheer Inspired Local Food Culture
december 2015
49
sweet ideas
Cranberry rugelaCh Rugelach is a flaky, versatile and surprisingly easy-tomake treat. Traditionally of Eastern European origin, these crescent-shaped pastries have become a staple of Hanukkah celebrations worldwide. I find that their universal appeal makes them a festive dessert for holiday parties and an even better host or hostess gift when someone else is doing the cooking. Despite being considered a sweet pastry, at my bakeshop, Pint Size Bakery, we roll the dough in Parmesan cheese to
STory anD rEcIPE By cHrISTy auguSTIn PHoTograPHy By cHEryl WallEr
make our savory egg-and-cheese hand pies. Branch out and fill the tiny croissantlike wonders with Dijon mustard, Swiss and prosciutto or go traditional with apricot preserves, raisins and walnuts. For the rugelach dough, cream cheese creates crisp layers after baking – similar to French pastry viennoiserie – but with a minimum of effort, unlike puff or Danish pastries. The following cranberry jam cooks in just 15 minutes, but feel free to substitute your favorite jam or marmalade in the recipe.
Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. Learn more at pintsizebakery.com.
Cranberry Rugelach yields | 5 dozen |
Cream Cheese Dough
1
8-oz package cream cheese, room temperature 1 cup unsalted butter, room temperature ½ tsp kosher salt 1¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling Cranberry Jam
1 ½
12-oz package fresh cranberries cup sugar zest and juice of 1 orange
assembly
½ ½
cup gingersnap cookie crumbs (or crumbs of your choice) cup granulated sugar
| Preparation – Cream Cheese Dough | In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment on medium speed, beat cream cheese, butter and salt until combined. add flour and mix just until smooth. Divide dough into 4 even portions, form into flat rounds, wrap in plastic and chill for 8 hours.
| Preparation – Cranberry Jam | In a food processor, process cranberries until minced. In a heavy-bottomed saucepot over medium heat, heat minced cranberries, sugar and orange zest and juice until thick, about 15 minutes. Transfer mixture to refrigerator to chill before using. | Assembly | roll 1 chilled dough round into a 10-inch circle, approximately 1⁄8-inch thick. Spread top with ¼ cup jam, leaving outside ½-inch edge clean. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons cookie crumbs over jam. repeat with remaining dough rounds. If filled rounds get too soft or warm, transfer them on a plate to refrigerator to set before forming finished pastries. using a pastry or pizza cutter, portion dough into 16 pizzalike slices. roll each slice from outside edge into center tip, forming tiny croissant shapes, making sure to place tip of triangle facedown to prevent them opening in oven. refrigerate until firm, about 20 to 30 minutes. When ready to bake, preheat oven to 350°F. Place rugelachs on a parchment paper-lined cookie sheet, about 1-inch apart, and sprinkle with sugar. Transfer to oven and bake, 20 to 25 minutes until golden brown. Serve immediately or store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to a week. I recommend wrapping them in cellophane bags tied with ribbon and gifting to friends and family.
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| 54 |
living on the wedge
| 63 |
ice aged
| 66 |
caviar, close to home
| 74 |
| 82 |
In Greenville, Illinois, sisters Amy and Beth Marcoot have transformed their family’s dairy farm into an award-winning cheese-making business. Regional winemakers risk a lot to produce ice wine, aging grapes on the vine months past harvest – but the payoff is intensely sweet, silky dessert wines. How a bait store near Lake of the Ozarks became a player in the international caviar industry. ... and everything nice
Spice up your holiday baking routine with five easy treats influenced by sweet traditions from around the world. feast of the seven fishes
Celebrate the holidays with a rich and festive fish and seafood feast inspired by a southern Italian tradition.
pHOtOGRApHy Of GInGeRBReAd BRIGAdeIRO By teReSA fLOyd.
Written by Mallory GnaeGy
|
PhotoGraPhy by Jennifer SilverberG
l
inda Marcoot says her husband, John, smiles a lot more these days. In 2007, he was ready to kick the milking stool and retire from the Greenville, Illinois, dairy farm he had been running since he was 17 years old. But, now that Amy and Beth, two of the 63-year-old’s four daughters, have returned home to take over the farm and open an artisan cheese company, John Marcoot decided otherwise. He happily manages the mostly-grass-fed, 120-cattle herd for his daughters’ growing business, Marcoot Jersey Creamery. “Amy told him one day, ‘We have help today; why don’t you go rest?,’” Beth Marcoot says. “He got a little angry, pointed his finger and said, ‘If I’m gonna die, I’m gonna die milking cows – not watching TV.’” It’s the same work ethic his daughters have and is one of the qualities to which they can likely attribute their business’ growing success since launching in June 2010. The Marcoot sisters’ cheese is sold across Missouri and Illinois in more than 170 restaurants, grocery stores and markets. In the St. Louis area, they supply cheese to restaurants such as Pastaria and Farmhaus, as well as both locations of Whole Foods Market, and Hy-Vee and Lucky’s Market in Columbia, Missouri. Plus, the creamery traffics 35,000 visitors in tours each year. “Last year, I thought, ‘We’ll plateau,’” Amy Marcoot says, shaking her head. “But now our tour director keeps saying, ‘Find me help!’”
{ Jersey Girls } Marcoot Jersey Creamery has become a tourist destination in its quiet farming
community about an hour east of St. Louis. Across the one-lane country road from the family’s home, where Amy and Beth grew up, sits a one-story, 3,200-square-foot red building. The sisters designed the building, complete with a cheese cave and public viewing windows, as an outgrowth of the barns and milking parlor their dad used for more than 30 years. For many of those years, the sisters were on the farm helping their dad manage and milk cattle. When they were teenagers, their father used to wake them up at 6am to milk the cows. Dairy farming was already in their blood; they just needed to learn how to make milk into cheese. Amy and Beth sit in the fluorescent-lit office as one of their employees helps a stream of visitors in the front room. Amy has classic oldest sister characteristics – she’s a laid back leader, humble and earnest. She handles the financial and business-related aspects. Amy also does most of the talking, and Beth elaborates on details. Beth oversees the agritourism, human resources, marketing and social media arms of the business. Their father is out in the fields; he manages and cares for the herd. And their mother, Linda, handles food safety, runs the on-site store and often is in charge of the childcare. She holds her sleeping 6-month-old grandson, Beth’s son, Ben, in a comfy navy rocking recliner in the corner. Linda proudly listens and occasionally chimes in. The sisters explain that the idea for the creamery started in 2008 when Linda called her four daughters to tell them they were going to sell the Jersey cows, and possibly the dairy farm. At that time, Amy, who had graduated with a master’s in counseling, was living in Turkey working for a startup. Beth was a camp program director living in southern Illinois.
PICTURED abovE: Linda; Beth and her son, Ben; their nephew Matthew; Amy; and John Marcoot.
Inspired Local Food Culture
DECEMBER 2015
55
“When this idea came along, it was a little left field,” Amy says. “We hadn’t really considered it.” Their dad had always told them how hard of a life dairy farming could be – he knew it personally. He was a three-sport athlete turned dairy farmer and responsible for transitioning the herd to a grass-fed diet. He’d been operating the farm with his brother, who opted to leave the business in 1999. To manage the herd and its demands by himself, he had to find something at a lower input. His research about New Zealand pasturemanagement programs led him to transition his corn and soybean fields into grass and create a rotational grazing program. It proved a lucky move – it’s exactly what many consumers would demand in the coming decade. Regardless, it was still very difficult for him to oversee by himself. “I remember my dad saying, ‘This is no way of life,’” Amy says, “or, ‘I don’t want you girls to take over the farm. I want you to have a better, more financially secure and consistent life.’”
Like six generations of Marcoots before them, Amy and Beth were given the choice to stay with the family business or follow their own paths. Although the sisters were interested in experiencing the world outside of Greenville, they couldn’t bear to see the farm close. “We grew up being proud of what we do, and we have that as a family,” Amy says, “but, to take that away and not have it any more just didn’t sit right. We had to try. We had to keep it going and wouldn’t go down without a fight.” Linda was surprised her daughters came back – she’s not surprised, however, that they’ve succeeded in business. “They’ve both been girls that don’t stop if they set a goal,” she says. Amy and Beth were likely the type to never come back home for good. It wasn’t that they didn’t love or respect where they came from, but they were both excited to experience and learn about new cultures. Before moving to Turkey, Amy had been working with disadvantaged children in high-risk settings in a job she felt was really
important, and it was a difficult transition. “It was a transition to realize that now, what I’m doing is for my family – not that it’s better or worse,” she says. Beth says returning to the farm wasn’t a hard decision for her, but more a rearrangement of her thinking about where she’d end up. And now, she says, “I don’t want to be anywhere else in the world other than making cheese with my sister and [cheesemaker and friend] Audie [Wall], and on the farm with my mom and dad.” When Amy and Beth told their father they wanted to return home, he offered his opinion: “You can’t expect to keep a small family farm and stay in business.” The sisters had to add value somehow. They sat with their parents – around the same kitchen table where they used to snack on cheese after school as kids – to decide what to do with the milk. They took turns laying out their dreams on the table. They wanted to continue producing an
PICTURED ToP lEfT: Jersey cows grazing in the fields at Marcoot Jersey Creamery. PICTURED boTTom lEfT: Cheese
is processed by Amy Marcoot and childhood friend and creamery employee Audie Wall.
56
feastmagazine.com
DECEMBER 2015
Puerto Vallarta and Riviera Nayarit are among the country’s most beautiful and scenic resorts on Mexico’s Pacific coast, where the beauty of the mountains frames the magnificent coastline. Culture and history are rich and alive in the towns and markets. Stroll along the charming seaside Malecón in downtown Puerto Vallarta. You’ll be tempted by a variety of fabulous eateries, and local vendors offering authentic Mexican snacks such as tacos and esquites (creamy corn cups with various toppings). Across the country on the Yucatan peninsula, home of the Mayans, travelers will enjoy a style of food all of its own. The dining options in Cancun, Riviera Maya and Cozumel are endless. The culinary delights of a typical Yucatecan kitchen come from a mouth-watering mixture of European and Mexican flavors, in addition to char-grilled meats and a variety of sauces.
“we grew up being proud of what we do, and we have that as a family.”
Ceviche is a tropical Mexican specialty featuring fish or seafood such as shrimp, octopus or shellfish, with finely chopped onion, cilantro and tomato. All the ingredients are bathed in fresh lemon juice, resulting in an incomparable explosion of flavors.
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Inspired Local Food Culture
december 2015
57
excellent product, to run a business to help the local economy become sustainable, to build something where people could visit and learn about agriculture and see their farm. They would begin to achieve these goals and stay in business by way of cheese.
{ Milk in Their Blood } The Marcoots have had the same breed of cow in their family since 1842, when their ancestors sailed from Switzerland to the Midwest and brought a Jersey calf with them on the boat. They know this from their family bible, a book to which each generation has contributed. “Heritage is really important to us,” Amy says. “We took my grandmother with us to Switzerland when she was 80 and found our old family farmstead – they had just put new siding on it.” They have a framed bill of sale with an old Marcoot Jersey Farm letterhead that proclaims “Jersey cattle and Berkshire hogs” – the same two types of livestock they raise today. The creamery purchased three hogs last spring and recently started selling pork, too, including tender brats filled with Marcoot cheese curds. “We’ve gone back to our roots,” Amy says. The farm has up to 120 registered Jersey cattle, a particular breed of brown dairy cows that are short with big brown eyes. Jersey cows produce high-butterfat and high-protein milk, which makes for richer and creamier cheese. Compared to the more common Holstein cow, which can average 8 to 11 gallons of milk per day, the Marcoots’ cattle produce 4 to 5 gallons. This is a little less than average Jersey cows and is a result of how they’re fed. “Our cows are about 90 percent grass-fed, and the grain we feed them is from a local feed elevator… farmers don’t usually strictly grass feed because grass doesn’t give them enough minerals to produce milk,” Beth says. As Beth confidently and clearly explains details about the herd, one can sense the educational influence she’s had on the farm. It’s no wonder the creamery is a popular destination for school field trips. Although dairy farming is in their blood, the sisters had to learn the art of cheesemaking. It was a trial-and-error, research-laden process that they say “fed a lot of pigs” the first couple of years.
{ Behind The wheels } To help the sisters learn how to make cheese, they flew in an expert, Peter Dixon, a world-renowned cheesemaker from Vermont, and together they made four
vats of cheese in two days. Since opening, they’ve continued learning and recently spent more than a week under his tutelage. “Even though we already make mozzarella one day a week, we really did learn to make it better and eliminate waste,” Amy says. They’ve also had to fine-tune recipes for their cheese depending on the seasons and weather patterns. The color of the cheese changes depending on the time of year and the nutrients the cows are consuming. “We rotationally graze, so it all goes back to what the cows are eating,” Beth says. “For instance, we learned that it’s best to make aged cheese in the winter when the cows are eating hay.” Her sister chimes in, “But nothing works well in a drought.” Dixon also influenced the design of the man-made, 20-by-40-foot cheese cave they built on the property. In a book he authored on cheesemaking, he includes a drawing of a cave with 8 feet of dirt on top of it, held up by concrete pillars, which they took to a contractor. Because the cave is made of concrete, if it’s really hot or dry, the sisters wet the floors, or if the humidity is too high, they have to squeegee water from the floor’s surface. There’s a lot that goes into the science of their work. To help them make cheese, the sisters hired their childhood best friend and college roommate, Audie Wall. They’d gladly claim her as a sister. “People always ask us if she’s related,” Amy says. “But she’s 8 inches taller than all of us.” Regardless of who is making which variety of cheese, the process is generally the same. When making mozzarella, Amy’s day starts at 3am to pasteurize milk (otherwise, Beth and Amy get in around 5:30am, with the nine other creamery staffers arriving around 10am). After milk is pasteurized for mozzarella, it’s heated to a certain temperature and the culture (dried milk) is added. They allow it to rest and ripen, and then add vegetable-based rennet, which acts as a coagulant. Rennet is typically an animal byproduct, an enzyme produced in the mucous membranes of a calf’s stomach, but the Marcoots use a vegetarianfriendly version. The mixture is then left to rest and settle into one large mass. They cut the curds, stir and let them settle again before draining the whey and shaping, forming or cutting the cheese depending on the variety. Some varieties are painted with a Paracoat wax. The only preservative used is high-quality salt. If it’s an aged variety, it goes into the cave.
Step-by-step production varies from cheese to cheese – Marcoot makes curds, mozzarella, quark, a handful of caveaged cheeses and a variety of farmstead cheeses. For instance, curds are not put into a form – it’s just unfinished Cheddar. Scamorza, or dried mozzarella shaped like a gourd, hangs by a rope to age for two to four weeks. Beth likes scamorza on pizza or used to make French cheesy bread. Linda likes to stuff dates with scamorza and wrap them in bacon. Tomme, a French cheese made with cow’s, goat’s or sheep’s milk, is another popular variety produced by Marcoot, similar to a Cheddar-Parmesan blend, that works as a grating cheese. It comes in small wheels and is cave-aged for 18 months. “Our 7-year-old nephew eats it straight off the block like a candy bar,” Beth says. The sisters also work with other local businesses to produce collaboration cheeses. Marcoot created a coffeeCheddar with Blueprint Coffee in St. Louis and a Tipsy Cheddar made with pale ale from St. Louis-based Schlafly Beer. “That’s the beautiful thing about being small,” Amy says. “We always want to be small enough that we can still do things like [making specific cheeses] for people.” No matter what they’re making, the cows have to be milked twice a day. So while other families are celebrating the holidays with their own traditions, the Marcoots celebrate by milking their cows. It’s always been that way. The holiday season is especially busy, when they sell logo-printed, upscale cheese assortments. For the company’s annual staff Christmas party, the sisters take employees out to dinner. They always go to a restaurant that buys their cheese, such as Three Sixty and Farmhaus in St. Louis. “One of the neatest things is watching my dad see our name on the menu,” Beth says, beginning to tear up. “He is so excited that he, a small dairy farmer in small Greenville, Illinois, is doing something people really love and appreciate.” Amy echoes her sentiment. “If success is more vacation time, money in the bank…” “Or sleep,” Beth interrupts with a smile. “Then maybe we aren’t successful,” Amy finishes the thought. “For us, success is getting to be together and making the family farm sustainable.” Marcoot Jersey Creamery, 526 Dudleyville Road, Greenville, Illinois, 618.664.1110, marcootjerseycreamery.com
To find reTail sTores where you can buy MarcooT Jersey creaMery producTs, visiT MarcooTJerseycreaMery.coM. you can order cheese or Join MarcooT’s cheese of The MonTh club on iTs websiTe.
“for us, success is getting to be together and making the family farm sustainable.�
Inspired Local Food Culture
DECEMBER 2015
59
reciPes Recipes couRtesy MaRcoot JeRsey cReaMeRy, adapted fRoM peteR dixon
Fresh mozzarella Yields | 1 pound | 1 8 ¼ ½ 3
gallon pasteurized milk (88°F to 90°F) Tbsp white vinegar tsp rennet gallon water oz salt
| Preparation | In a large stockpot, heat milk to 88°F to 90°F using a candy thermometer and remove from heat once temperature is reached. While gently stirring the milk continuously, add white vinegar. Immediately after vinegar has been stirred in, add rennet.
}
holiday cheese board recommendations
cheese
descriPtion
}
Pairing
Tipsy Cheddar
A well-balanced white Cheddar made with Schlafly Pale Ale
A sweet chile sauce, jam or figs
Habanero Monterey Jack
An American cheese with a kick
Summer sausage
Redbird Cheddar
A white Cheddar made with red Hawaiian salt
Apricots
Cave Aged Tomme
A spin on an ancient mountain cheese that’s similar to a Cheddar-Parmesan blend
Honey
Cave Aged Heritage
A semihard version of a Gruyère with a distinctive fruity and sharp flavor
Figs or blackberry jam
Cave Aged Alpine
A cheese that tastes like Asiago meets Swiss
Figs
Serves | 4 |
Creamy Havarti
Raspberry or blackberry jam
4 1 1 1 1 1 8 4
A mild, creamy cheese with a buttery taste and hazelnut finish
Smoked Gouda
A creamy Gouda with a burst of applewood-smoke flavor
Red grapes, prosciutto, coffee stout or caramel rum
Curd will form in 1 to 2 minutes and will be ready to cut in 3 to 5 minutes. Check the curd firmness to determine the optimum time to cut – curd should be a Jell-O consistency and should almost pull away from the stockpot. Cut mixture into ¼-inch pieces, reserving whey, the watery liquid that remains. Stir the curds briefly and let rest in whey for 10 minutes. Drain off whey and cut pack of curds into 4-inch squares. Keep covered to retain warmth and scoop the whey out with a cup. Slice curds into thin strips or break into small pieces. Place ½-pound curds in a bowl. In a separate pot, heat water and salt to 150°F to 160°F. Stretch curds in hot water so they stick together into a mass. Knead into a smooth dough. Pull dough into a rope and mold into balls, braids or desired shape. Place finished cheese into cold water until firm. Wrap in film and refrigerate or serve immediately.
creamy havarti chicken bake boneless, skinless chicken breasts bottle Italian salad dressing Tbsp butter Tbsp white cooking wine Tbsp Worcestershire sauce tsp garlic salt oz fresh, sliced mushrooms oz Marcoot Jersey Creamery Creamy Havarti
| Preparation | Preheat oven to 400°F. In a large bowl, combine chicken and Italian dressing and allow to marinate for at least 30 minutes. Transfer chicken to a 9-by-13-inch baking dish and bake in oven for 20 minutes. While chicken is baking, melt butter in a skillet. Add wine, Worcestershire sauce and garlic salt and bring to a boil. Add mushrooms. Reduce to a simmer and cook until mushrooms are tender. Keep warm. Remove chicken from oven. Top each chicken breast with a slice of havarti and mushroom sauce. Serve.
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Winemakers risk a lot to produce ice wine, aging grapes on the vine months past harvest – but the payoff is sweet. WrITTen By HIlAry HeDGeS
y late fall, the craze of harvest season has passed for most regional winemakers, but there are a select few who dare to wait longer than the rest for just the right moment. It’s a moment that leads to rich and luscious, intensely sweet and silky late-harvest wines and ice wines. Both are made by leaving grapes on the vine beyond regular harvest so they’re extremely ripe and have built up more natural sugar. By doing so, fruit is exposed to risks such as rot, mildew and damage from birds and insects, but the reward of a successful late harvest is rich wine bursting with fruit flavor. Usually made in relatively small batches, ice wines and late-harvest wines are rare and limited, and represent the patience and delicate care that go into each bottle.
late-harvest wines Grapes used to make late-harvest wines hang on the vine about a month past the typical harvest season – which usually begins in late August and runs through mid-October in Missouri and southern Illinois – but do not freeze. Grape growers rely on the accumulation of sugar through natural dehydration. In 2013, the winemaking and vineyard teams at Stone Hill Winery in Hermann, Missouri, decided Oct. 11 was the right day to pick Vignoles grapes for its lateharvest wine. In some cases, though it’s not common in all states in the Midwest, the presence of Botrytis cinerea bunch rot also plays
a role in producing late-harvest wine. This is a species of fungal infection that – under the right conditions – can be a good thing. If you get the infection and the weather stays dry, the grapes get what’s called noble rot. This aids dehydration and concentrates the sugars and flavors of the juice. If the infection happens under rainy conditions, the fruit is lost. “In the case of our late-harvest, that is not the primary driving force behind the increased concentration of sugar because our climate is not as conducive to classic noble rot as it might be in some areas,” says Stone Hill senior winemaker Dave Johnson. “But, it often plays a secondary role.” According to Johnson, noble rot plays a large role in producing the greatest and most well-known late-harvest wines: French Sauternes. The team at Stone Hill uses Vignoles grapes because of their natural tendency in Missouri to dehydrate and have higher sugar content. The winery depends on the warm climate and long growing season to achieve the sugar levels needed for late-harvest wine. “We have picked it when it looked like we were harvesting raisins,” Johnson says. “It made a spectacular late-harvest wine.”
When harvesting grapes in the vineyard, pickers must sort the clusters much more carefully to remove bad fruit, as some are destroyed by birds and insects, and loss is common. “One thing that always happens is you might leave 10 tons of grapes, but then there are 4 tons that you could use,” Johnson says.
almost like nectar. Winemakers at Stone Hill ferment it in cool conditions to retain as much of its distinct, ripe fruit character as possible. “It’s not as easy for the yeast to ferment,” Johnson says. “It’s not as friendly of an environment. It’s a more difficult fermentation and is much slower.”
After grapes are harvested at Stone Hill, they’re sent through a machine that removes stems and pops open the skins before they go into the press. Pressing grapes for late-harvest wine takes much longer than when making the winery’s regular Vignoles. “Think about how much harder it would be to press the juice out of a raisin than a grape,” Johnson says.
The winery’s regular Vignoles can take about a week or two to go through fermentation, whereas late-harvest Vignoles can take twice as long. The end result has a light golden color with a floral bouquet that hits the palate with tropical fruit, peach and apricot and finishes with caramelized sugar and honey. It pairs especially well with figs, goat cheese or desserts made with apples. In the 2014 Missouri Wine
The pressed juice is extremely sweet,
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“It’s like handling a bunch of marbles”. -Dave Johnson,Stone Hill Winery Competition, the 2013 vintage won Best of Class in the late harvest/ice wine category, and the 2012 vintage won gold at this year’s competition.
he’s waited until November – compared to when he harvests regular Chambourcin grapes in late September or early October.
With all of the early rain this year, Stone Hill won’t be producing a 2015 late-harvest wine. Johnson says grapes become vulnerable once they’re ripe, so if you have the wrong weather, you end up with rotten fruit.
He says the biggest difference when using a red varietal for late-harvest wine is beginning fermentation before grapes are pressed. After they’re crushed and destemmed, Held pitches the yeast with the skins still on. The resulting juice is very thick, like syrup, from the natural sugar, and the skin contact adds tannin and gives the wine its deep red color. Held stops fermentation early to maintain the residual sugar and then puts everything into the press.
Late-harvest wines can be enjoyed immediately while they are young and fruity or aged to achieve some caramelized flavors; Johnson says it’s all up to personal preference.
Held lets his Chambourcin hang on the vine past the first frost, although his 2010 vintage endured about four frosts before harvest. Sometimes this happens in October; other years, 64
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The finished product is a sweet, complex take on Chambourcin, a varietal typically fermented to be a dry-style wine. “It’s a nice grape to work with,” Held says. “It has a really nice port-like taste to it, but it’s not fortified.” Held doesn’t plan to make a late-harvest wine in 2015 due to all the rain. His 2010 vintage is currently available, and he’s preparing to release the 2011. Wine isn’t distributed outside of the tasting room, so you’ll have to visit Grapes of Held to try it, or you can call the winery to have a bottle shipped almost anywhere in the U.S. Although Held doesn’t produce a high volume of late-harvest wine, he says it’s been a great seller.
The tradition of making ice wine is deeply rooted in Germany and applies a different approach than late-harvest wine to concentrate sugar. Instead of depending on natural dehydration, grapes are left on the vine to freeze for an extended period of time. By doing so, the water inside freezes – while sugar and other solids do not – leaving behind an extremely sweet juice. “Freezing is the way of concentrating the goodies,” Johnson says. The varietal is just as important as the process. At Stone Hill, Vidal Blanc grapes are used to make its awardwinning ice wine, as the varietal is more resistant to rot and its thick skin is less likely to crack. Again, it’s all about harvesting grapes at the right moment. “This ice wine is quite an adventure because the question becomes when to pick the grapes and when not to pick them,” Johnson says. “We’re all on the phone with each other trying to figure out if it’s going to be cold enough.” On Dec. 9, 2013, nearly three months after harvest season, the winery made the call. It had been around 16°F for several days, and winemakers knew they could get the grapes picked and
to the press without thawing. While late-harvest grapes take a long time to press, it’s an even slower process when they are frozen. Winemakers are trying to retrieve little bits of unfrozen juice among ice. “It’s like handling a bunch of marbles,” Johnson says. The cycle takes around 24 hours of continuous pressing. Eventually, Johnson and his team will see a little bit of thawing, which means the sugar content could decrease. “That’s when you go, ‘OK, we’re done pressing,’” he says. And with ice wine, wineries lose even more during production. Johnson says his team would normally get about 180 gallons of juice per ton. With ice wine, they only get around 100 gallons. So why make it? “Because it’s fun and it makes a fabulous product when you can do it,” Johnson says. Stone Hill’s 2013 Vidal Blanc ice wine was the winery’s first ever, and Johnson is quick to acknowledge winemaker Shaun Turnbull’s role in producing it. At the time, Turnbull had started to take on a larger role at the winery and was a key player in producing the vintage. “We all collaborated, but this was his baby,” Johnson says.
photography by igorr1 and Mattia Marenco/istock.coM
At Grapes of Held Winery & Vineyard in Fairdealing, Missouri, just southwest of Poplar Bluff, owner-winemaker J. Fred Held is using a nontraditional grape to make late-harvest wine: the red FrenchAmerican hybrid Chambourcin. Held has always used the varietal to produce late-harvest wine, as opposed to more popular white grapes such as Vignoles and Vidal Blanc. “I decided I wanted to try something a little different and see how it worked,” he says.
naturally produced ice wines
The ice wine is sweet, with a bouquet of tropical fruit and a bit of citrus. It has rich flavors of pineapple and apricot with a touch of vanilla midpalate. The mouthfeel is full and well-rounded with a long, creamy finish. A slice of pecan pie or strawberry shortcake would pair nicely with the wine, which won Best of Class at the 2015 Missouri Wine Competition and gold in 2014. Johnson says this year’s Vidal Blanc looked promising when it was picked in late September, despite all the rain that prevented the winery from making its late-harvest wine. The vineyard crew netted a block of grapes and is hoping to produce ice wine in 2015. “It’s a gamble,” Johnson says.
frozen post-harvest Winemaker Tony Kooyumjian, owner of Augusta and Montelle wineries in Augusta, Missouri, is a third-generation vineyard owner and grape grower. He takes a different approach to producing wines with highly concentrated sugars and flavors.
He says ice wines age better than most white wines, but he enjoys drinking them within two to three years.
Kooyumjian lets grapes hang on the vine past regular harvest season and looks for the concentrated sugars that accumulate through natural dehydration, much like winemakers usually do to produce late-harvest wine. At both wineries, teams monitor the grapes daily, waiting for just the right moment (the wineries primarily use Vidal Blanc, as well as some Chardonel and Muscat grapes). From there, Kooyumjian veers onto a different path by freezing grapes after they’re picked, once he thinks they’ve ripened as much as they can. After grapes are frozen, they’re left alone to chill for at least a week.
often thought of as being higher in alcohol content than other styles of wine, but Kooyumjian says that’s not always the case.
This usually happens in November, before Thanksgiving, but every year is different. Kooyumjian says the advantage to producing wine this way is that he doesn’t have as much loss as he would if the grapes froze on the vine, keeping the bottle price lower. “We’re able to do that because we aren’t exposing ourselves to the risks and restrictions,” he says.
The 100 percent Vidal Blanc from Montelle is crisp and floral, with flavors of apricot, peach, mango, pineapple and honeysuckle, and a long and rich finish. Augusta’s blend has a sweet and rich flavor with aromas of pear, pineapple and honey.
“You don’t want a lot of alcohol in ice wine because it doesn’t balance well with the sugar,” Kooyumjian says. “We usually aim for 10 percent.” Montelle Winery’s bottling is made with 100 percent Vidal Blanc, while Augusta’s is about 75 percent Vidal Blanc blended with Chardonel and Muscat. Both wines earned gold medals at the 2014 MidAmerican Wine Competition.
Late-harvest wines and ice wines are
Both wines are darker in color than most white wines, with deep golden hues, which Kooyumjian says is due to the skins’ prolonged exposure to the sun.
augusta winery
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5601 High St., P.O. Box 8, Augusta, Missouri, 636.228.4301, augustawinery.com
201 Montelle Drive, P.O. Box 147, Augusta, Missouri, 636.228.4464, montelle.com
1110 Stone Hill Highway, Hermann, Missouri, 573.486.2221, stonehillwinery.com
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Winemakers like Johnson, Held and Kooyumjian risk a lot to produce late-harvest wines and ice wines. They could pick and press grapes during the regular harvest season instead of putting in the extra effort, instead of waiting for the precise, fleeting day and time when grapes are exceedingly ripe for the picking. For keeping grapes on the vine a little longer and undertaking an extremely time-consuming production process, they are rewarded with sweet wines full of complex fruit character. Each vintage lends itself to different food pairings, but in general, these wines complement equally sweet or rich dishes, such as foie gras, cheese, honey-glazed pork and chicken, or most any after-dinner treat. With just one sip, you’ll understand why winemakers put so much time and delicate care into making limited batches of these intensely sweet and special wines.
grapes of held winery & vineyard HC 1 Box 239, Fairdealing, Missouri, 573.857.2039, grapesofheldwinery.com
and
Grapes of Held isn’t the only Missouri winery making a late-harvest Chambourcin. Vance Vineyards & Winery in Fredericktown, Missouri, makes one, as well as one made from Chardonel grapes. Sand Creek Vineyard & Winery in Farmington, Missouri, also produces a late-harvest Chambourcin. The winery makes a late-harvest wine made from Chardonel grapes, as well.
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he strong scent of fish permeates a small whitewashed hatchery in Osage Beach, Missouri, but the pungent aroma doesn’t bother Steve Kahrs. “People used to complain about the smell when they walked in,” he says, “but Dad used to say it smells like money.” Sixty-two years after Steve’s dad, Jim, opened Osage Catfisheries, the scent of money is stronger than ever, thanks, in part, to paddlefish caviar. For years, the caviar market was dominated by one fish – the beluga sturgeon from the Caspian Sea, a massive freshwater lake, in Eastern Europe – but when an import ban on the fish was implemented in 2005 to halt overfishing, the market flooded with new varieties of fish roe. Salmon and whitefish caviar surged in popularity due to their lower price points, but the larger roe couldn’t compete with the quality or flavor of smaller and darker beluga caviar. To match the rich, buttery flavor of the beluga sturgeon, Jim turned to one of its relatives – the paddlefish, or spoonbill as it’s often called, which dates back before the first dinosaurs. Fifteen years after releasing the first batch of farm-raised paddlefish caviar in 2000, Osage Catfisheries has expanded its acreage tenfold and also its client base, with international orders shipped across the globe, from Germany to Russia to Japan.
“It’s a long and colorful story,” Steve says. Seated at his desk inside the fishery, he is surrounded by evidence of the family’s 60-plus years in business. Black and white photos of his mom and dad cover the walls, and framed aerial shots depict the fishery’s colorful and expansive patchwork of ponds and lakes. On the shelves behind him sits a dusty collection of cleaned catfish skulls, autographs and a few preserved baby paddlefish that float motionless in test tubes. Before making a splash in the international caviar market, Jim moved his young family to Osage Beach in 1953 and opened Osage Catfisheries, a small
hatchery where Jim sold minnows. “There really was no such thing as ‘Osage Beach’ when my parents moved here,” Steve says. Today, Osage Beach is a high-end resort community, and Osage Catfisheries, with its whitewashed office and stitching of lakes, has gone global. “Dad was a visionary in the aquaculture business,” Steve says. “He was always looking to expand. If we were still just selling fish for people to stock their ponds, we would have been out of business a long time ago.” Growing up, Steve and his three siblings worked summers at the fishery. The three children watched as the business grew and their dad ventured into new revenue streams. But when Jim decided to dive into the booming caviar market with the help of the giant paddlefish, some questioned the decision. “Dad thought they were fascinating fish,” Steve says, “but the other fish farmers thought we were crazy, that there was no monetary value in paddlefish.” The other fish farmers were wrong. By the early 1980s, the coveted beluga caviar had skyrocketed in price and overfishing was rampant. In 1979 – 26 years before the import ban – Jim and other fish farmers began breeding paddlefish for its roe. Paddlefish caviar had been on the market for some time from commercial fishermen, but in 2000, 21 years after he started the breeding process, Jim harvested his first farm-raised roe (the mass of eggs found in the ovaries of female fish) under the name L’Osage Caviar Co. Although the price was right – today at $35 dollars per ounce compared to beluga caviar, which can cost up to $281 per ounce – L’Osage Caviar and Osage Catfisheries were unknown in the market. “That was the biggest challenge,” Steve says. “Dad had to establish L’Osage as a premier caviar brand.”
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To distinguish itself, L’Osage Caviar focused on flavor and quality mouthfeel. To make its caviar, roe is screened from the ovaries and then submerged in a salty brine. Steve looks for bright flavor when he tastes the caviar. High-quality caviar has a buttery and rich flavor with some salinity, but shouldn’t be overly salty. Too wet, and the caviar loses its consistency and pop. It should be dry and stand up on its own when spooned onto a dish.
paddlefish caviar really took off, but his legacy lives on as Steve and his brother, Pete, continue to run the family business. In the past few years, Steve says a new challenge has surfaced in the industry – paddlefish are being poached from local waters. In 2013, more than 100 suspects from Missouri and eight other states were issued citations or arrest warrants for paddlefish poaching.
“I love good caviar,” Steve says. “It’s great plain, on melba toast or on top of scrambled eggs.”
“There was a lot of caviar being sold on the black market, and you wanted to know who you were doing business with,” Steve says.
Eventually, L’Osage Caviar was picked up by Rick Moonen’s RM Seafood restaurant, then in New York, and Fortune Small Business magazine ran a story on L’Osage Caviar in October 2006 that reported the company’s product had found its way into gift bags at the Academy Awards. Suddenly, the small-production business couldn’t keep up with demand for its caviar. Sadly, Jim passed away in 2006, before his prized
A cartilaginous fish, paddlefish have no bones and can weigh as much as 160 pounds and be as long as 7 feet. Their enormous size makes them valuable as a sporting fish for both their mass and their meat, but paddlefish are also targets for poachers who want to harvest their roe. The Missouri Department of Conservation estimates that a female paddlefish carrying 20 pounds of roe can be worth $4,000 on the black market.
Outside Steve and Pete’s office, galvanized tanks of all sizes hold schools of fish. There are bluegill, gar, catfish, largemouth bass and common carp. In total, Osage Catfisheries breeds 32 varieties of fish from the Missouri and Mississippi river valleys. Only one of those, the paddlefish, is bred for consumption. The rest are shipped across the country and the world for research and further breeding. The back of the fishery is a maze of larger tanks. Flashes of metallic silvers and blues catch the sunlight when the large metal garage door is opened. One tank filled with largemouth bass is headed to Bass Pro Shops for display in the stores’ aquariums. Another, filled with Asian carp – one of the most invasive species in the region due to its ability to outcompete native fish – is contracted to the federal government. “We raise them so government agencies can rid waterways of them,” Steve says.
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Next to the Asian carp is a large tank filled with what appear to be tiny spoon-billed platypuses no more than 4 inches long. These are baby paddlefish. Babies are trained on food pellets for their first three months of life before they’re transitioned onto a natural diet. Young, slippery bottom-feeders flap onto their sides when Steve tosses a handful of pellets into the water. At the moment, the dark blue fish are small enough to hold in the palm of your hand, but they won’t stay that way for long. This past March, one angler hooked a 140-pound paddlefish on Table Rock Lake outside of Branson, Missouri – the largest fish ever caught on record in the state. If that sounds big, hold your breath, because the paddlefish is nothing compared to the beluga sturgeon, which can live to be more than 100 years old. The largest beluga sturgeon ever recorded weighed more than 3,000 pounds, and belugas are the largest freshwater fish in the world. Although the paddlefish is drastically smaller, they’re still quite a sight to see, and the prehistoric fish are surprisingly agile. “Bump into them in the water and they’ll rocket the other way, if you can even get that close,” Steve says. The Kahrs family keeps several adult paddlefish in the lakes along the golf course they own, just a stone’s throw away from the hatchery. “If a golf ball lands in the water or a cart startles the fish, they’ll actually breach the water like a whale and come splashing down,” Steve says. “It’s really amazing to see a 60-pound fish come straight out of the water like that.” Once the paddlefish reach 5 to 7 centimeters, they are transferred to the nursery before eventually being transported to the ranching program’s numerous lakes, which are at least 5 acres each in order to sustain the mammoth fish. About 12 years later, when paddlefish have reached their ideal weight, they are gathered into large gill nets and hauled to the processing facility. Because good caviar requires cold temperatures to ensure quality eggs, Osage harvests its paddlefish from January through April, as long as temperatures are cool enough. Male fish are processed into large bullets, which means the head, guts and tail are removed, while the ovaries of female paddlefish are removed and the roe is screened off before the meat is processed into bullets. The paddlefish’s tender white meat makes it popular on the seafood market, especially smoked paddlefish, and ensures Osage’s processing is nearly waste-free. But the real breadwinner is the caviar, which is packaged for sale in the U.S. and overseas.
In the ’70s and ’80s, at the height of the beluga caviar craze in America, a teaspoon of the tiny black pearls was considered a true indulgence given the price tag. There was – and still is – proper etiquette for serving it: Caviar should be spooned off utensils made of mother of pearl, tortoiseshell or bone, and never metal, as it can ruin the fresh, untouched flavor of the roe. In 2014, Osage Catfisheries sold roughly 1,300 pounds of caviar under the L’Osage brand, nearly all of it wholesale. Of that, 1,000 pounds were devoured by the international market. Steve says he’s seen a shift in domestic consumers in recent years – fewer young people are buying caviar in America, but the same isn’t true elsewhere in the world, where caviar is more embedded in cultural traditions. “Young people just don’t want caviar anymore,” Steve says. “But in places where caviar is built into the culture, like Russia, China and the other Eastern European countries, caviar is still in high demand.” Today, L’Osage’s domestic caviar sales have slowed since its boom in 2006. Still, a handful of Midwest chefs feature L’Osage’s paddlefish caviar on their menus. Chef Craig von Foerster – a California transplant who served as executive chef at Sierra Mar restaurant in Big Sur – has spooned out L’Osage caviar in multicourse dinners hosted in the Ozarks for the past few years. Recently, Foerster opened his own restaurant, Harvest, in Rogersville, Missouri. “I first tried the caviar years ago right before Valentine’s Day,” Foerster says. “I loved it. No one had any idea that someone in Missouri was making great caviar.” Foerster has been serving it ever since. “It’s hard to describe the flavor, but the main description is clean and crisp. It’s probably the best domestic [paddlefish] caviar I’ve ever had.” Chef Wes Johnson of Metropolitan Farmer in Springfield, Missouri, sampled the caviar more recently and is now looking for ways to incorporate it onto the restaurant’s menu. “I would love to serve it at the bar as an appetizer with Champagne,” he says. “It has a great mild flavor that’s not overpowering.” When Jim Kahrs founded Osage Catfisheries 62 years ago, he couldn’t possibly have predicted the far-flung (or far-out) direction his business would take, all thanks to the oddly shaped paddlefish. Today, his sons are carrying on his work, running the family fishery and ensuring the scent of money continues to hang in the air. “My dad loved this business,” Steve says. “He had his kids around him, and none of us left. Every day was a wonderful day for my dad – even in the bad times. Every day was a good day.”
To learn more about L’Osage Caviar Co. or to purchase a 1½-ounce jar ($67.50) or 4-ounce jar ($180), based on seasonal availability, visit osagecaviar.com. Inspired Local Food Culture
APRIL 2015
XX
Celebrating
history, tradition and progress
The abbey Tis the season! Twinkling lights, a warm fire, an invitation to cozy up with friends, co-workers, and of course, your favorite libation - The Abbey at Christmas time! From Hot Cocoa to Hot Totty’s. Enjoy Spiced Chai, Spiced Rum, Espresso or Egg Nog - pick your pleasure - whatever suits your taste for yuletide merriment. We offer a full menu all day, open for dinner on Thursday and Friday evenings. Come enjoy the Abbey’s uniquely warm and welcoming space. The Abbey at Christmas- Relax! 5801 W Main St, Belleville, IL 62226 | 618.277.8373 | thebellevilleabbey.com
Nov. 22 - JaN. 1 from 5 – 9 p.m. Outdoor Light Display, Animal Rides, Indoor Activities, Laser Shows, Music Performances, Delicious Evening Buffet, Special Discount Nights FREE ADMISSION | WayofLights.org 442 South De Mazenod Dr., Belleville, IL 62223 618.397.6700 | snows.org
Righteous pig bbq With the Holidays drawing near let us help you spread your cheer.... Free up your time and kitchen by letting us do the cookin’.... We sell all of our awesome smoked meats, and our creative sides in bulk, we also can do finger sandwiches or a 2 foot long sub, or let our creative minds customize your food for you and your special occasion. Check out our full catering menu and party paks on our web sight www.righteouspigbbq.com. Call us at 618-520-8817 for any questions, and bring the party in a pan with Righteous Pig BBQ to your next gathering. 124 E. Main St., Belleville, IL 62220 | 618.520.8817 | rigthteouspigbbq.com
The WeingarTen Conveniently located less than 20 minutes outside of St. Louis, our winery feels like it’s miles away, and is the perfect relaxation destination during the holiday rush! The Weingarten pays tribute to the German heritage of the area by keeping with the rustic nature of an old farmstead. Open Wednesday - Sunday, serving up a generous “You-Pick-2” lunch menu, dinner options and wine & beer tastings. Try our chef’s seasonal creations paired with a glass of the signature Apple Streusel Sangria! There’s always something going on, so like us on Facebook for upcoming events! Now open year-round, The Weingarten’s Tasting Room is the perfect spot to gather your loved ones this holiday season for a sip of something delicious to warm you up as you watch the snow fall.
HeartHside Grill Come to Hearthside Grill & Fireplace for the most comprehensive selection of Big Green Eggs and Eggcessories in the St. Louis Area. From appetizers to entrees to desserts, the Big Green Egg will exceed all of your expectations for culinary perfection … and with seven convenient sizes to choose from, there is a Big Green Egg to fit any lifestyle! 418 South Belt East, Belleville, IL 62220 618.257.0700 | hearthsidegrill.com
1780 E. State Route 15, Belleville, IL 62221 | 618.257.9463 | theweingarten.com
Grimm & Gorly You are cordially invited to downtown Belleville this holiday season where we offer a unique menu of house-made treats, fresh grinds, ready-made-florals and seasonal decor. We welcome you into our home to become a part of your family’s tradition. Let us help to inspire with quintessential gift lines and fresh products sure to fit anyone on your gift list.We welcome you, the readers of FEAST, to our “table-of-plenty” for inspirational fulfillment this holiday season. 322 and 324 E Main Street, Belleville, IL 62220 618.234.4455 and 618.234.4466 | grimmandgorly.com
Happy Hop Homebrew & Gourmet Happy Hop Homebrew & Gourmet is more than just a brew shop. In addition to offering the Metro East’s beer brewers and wine makers an extensive inventory of supplies and ingredients to practice their craft, they’ve included a wide selection of gifts, foodie items, natural products, and locally crafted wares. Have one of their knowledgeable staff help you craft your very own delicious beer or wine recipe, check out their full line of essential oils, or simply enjoy the inviting aroma of hand crafted soaps and aromatherapy products. Located in the heart of historic downtown Belleville, Happy Hop is the place for that person on your gift list you thought had everything. 122 E. Main Street, Belleville, IL 62220 | 618-277-2550 | happyhophomebrew.com 103 E. Vandalia, Edwardsville, IL 62025
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The Shrine reSTauranT If you are looking for a casual dining experience, the Shrine Restaurant is the perfect place. Serving lunch and dinner and an excellent Sunday Brunch. For something unique, try our new German menu which is sure to please. Browse the website for hours and lunch and dinner menus. 442 South De Mazenod Dr., Belleville, IL 62223 618.394.6237 | snows.org/rest
Make This Holiday Easy! HOLIDAY APPETIZER MENU 2015 WARMED BRIE WITH APRICOT GLAZE AND SPICY WALNUTS GRILLED vEGETABLE PLATTER MARINATED LEMON-LIME SHRIMP MINI GROvE STEAk SANDWICHES
New Year’s Eve
CHICkEN SPEDINI SkEWERES
Speakeasy Dinner you are invited to ring in the New Year, with 20’s s er era style and glamour. --four courses of 20’s era Fare --special cocktails by candlelight --12.31.2015 from m 5pm - 1a 1am details: www.SanctuariaSTL.com/NYE
ASIAGO AND BOURSIN STUFFED POTATO SLIPPERS
oliday Full h menu party able avail
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ONLY $395.00 Serves 15-20 people
Also available: Holiday Brunch Menu (serves 10-15, $150), Holiday Dinner Menu ($27.95/person), New Years Eve Dinner Package ($60/couple). Visit theaofe.com to see full menus and descriptions. All menus available this holiday season. Please call ahead to place your order.
21 Years & Still Cooking!
Sanctuaria Wild Tapas 4198 M Manchester Avenue Saint Louis, Missouri phone: 314.535.9700
8796 Big Bend Blvd. Webster Groves, MO 63119
314-963-9899
Monday-Friday: 9am to 7pm Saturday: 10:30am to 4pm
theaofe.com
Gallagher's Holiday gift certificates available Order online or by phone
114 W. Mill St. • Waterloo, IL • 618.939.9933 • gallagherswaterloo.com
Merry Christmas! Living Word Christian School prays you have a blessed holiday season. Open Enrollment begins March 1, 2016 One of the Top 50 Christian High Schools in the U.S. (by www.bestschools.org) Educating Tomorrow’s Leaders Today
1145 Tom Ginnever Ave • O’Fallon • 636.978.1680 • lwcs.us Inspired Local Food Culture
DECEMBER 2015
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this season, spice up
your regular holiday baking routine and create new family traditions by exploring a wider world of sweets and confections. The following recipes were developed by pastry chefs and bakers, and each is inspired by holiday celebrations from across the globe. These treats are easy to make in your own kitchen and are meant to be shared as gifts or with guests during holiday get-togethers. Torrone, a nougat made of honey and nuts, is traditionally served as part of the Italian Christmas tradition as dessert or as a wedding favor and is typically enjoyed after dinner with amaro or a digestif. Anne Croy, executive pastry chef at Pastaria in Clayton, Missouri – an Italian eatery known for its housemade pastas, pizza, bomboloni and gelato – created an orange-pistachio version of the chewy and soft treat. “The wildflower honey plays off of the orange zest, and the pistachios give it an earthy, rich textural component,” Croy says. “More than anything, I like the visual appeal of the sliced candy, as it reminds me of the stone and tile mosaic floors throughout Italy.” Toffee shares a flavor profile with peanut brittle and caramel. All three of the holiday confections are popular in England, where toffee is believed to have been invented. Tallgrass Toffee Co. owner Beth Dowell’s milk chocolate-almond toffee is the top seller at her shop in Lenexa, Kansas. “My toffee tastes sweet and buttery and has that caramelized-sugar taste that’s hard to describe except by saying it melts in your mouth,” Dowell says. “It’s very common to give as a gift in England, and family recipes are held secret and dear.” In Kansas City, Natasha’s Mulberry & Mott bakery owner Natasha Goellner says meringue plays a huge role in French pastry – whether used in cakes, as a leavener, buttercream base, in macarons, mousse or as cake frosting. In a cookie, meringue is light, airy and crisp, and Goellner’s will melt in your mouth and are well worth the careful attention the recipe requires. “Unless you flavor them with a specific extract, they just taste like sugar and vanilla,” Goellner says. “The meringue cookies in my recipe are flavored with peppermint extract and dipped in chocolate so they taste like a chocolate-dipped candy cane.”
SpiCE up youR holiDay Baking RoutinE with fivE EaSy tREatS inSpiRED By SwEEt tRaDitionS fRoM aRounD thE woRlD. INTrODUCTION By BETHANy CHrISTO rECIPES By ANNE CrOy, BETH DOWELL, NATASHA GOELLNEr, MArCELLA IBArGUrEN AND BrIAN PELLETIEr
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“Many people compare pâtes de fruits to fruit jellies or even sugared orange slices,” says Brian Pelletier, owner and chief chocolatier at Kakao Chocolate, with three locations in the St. Louis area. “At Kakao, we say that our pâtes de fruits are what those orange slices dream about.” Especially popular in Provence and the south of France, where they’re given as holiday gifts or served as a dessert or snack alongside cheese, pâtes de fruits are made with nearly the same ingredients as jelly, but produce a much different result, according to Pelletier. His recipe maximizes the flavor of seasonal fruit, with not too much sugar and just a touch of lemon juice to accentuate the treat. Finally, for pastry chef Marcella Ibarguren of Brigabon Candy Co. in Kansas City, brigadeiro holds many memories – from indulging in the Brazilian sweet at casual meals to lavish celebrations, to eating it straight off a spoon at home before it cooled. Brazilians don’t traditionally make confections for the holidays, though. “Brigadeiros are pretty unique; they’re comfort food for us,” Ibarguren says. “They are a cross between several ‘American’ holiday treats: They look like truffles; however, they are not typically enrobed in chocolate. Its consistency can be more closely compared to a soft caramel, and I have been told the taste reminds people of brownie batter and grandma’s homemade chocolate pudding.” Although chocolate is commonly used to make brigadeiro in Brazil, Ibarguren shared a gingerbread flavor that’s rolled in sugar to add sparkle to your holiday sweets spread. When deciding what treats to make this holiday season, Ibarguren sums it up well: “Why not try something different?” Our thoughts exactly.
Orange-PistachiO tOrrOne
Photo by CheRyL WALLeR
| Preparation | Prepare a half sheet tray pan by lining with wafer paper.
Recipe by Anne cRoy, executive pAstRy chef, pAstARiA pastariastl.com
“My recipe makes 125 small pieces, which are great for little Christmas gifts. Don’t hesitate to dip a few in dark chocolate. Artisan torrone is still made in Sicily in quaint little shops, and you know you’re getting something special when the pieces are not cut perfectly. Sawing will get you in trouble: Just make a deliberate cut in the chilled nougat, and you’re good.” –Anne Croy Yields | 125 pieces |
3 1 3 ½ 2
wafer paper cups evaporated cane juice cup wildflower honey large egg whites cup powdered sugar cups whole pistachios zest of 2 oranges
In a saucepan, heat cane juice and honey to 315°F using a candy thermometer. Remove from heat. Stir until temperature drops to 300°F. Meanwhile, in the bowl of stand mixer on high, beat egg whites and sugar until shiny and stiff peaks form. With mixer on low, slowly pour 300°F honey mixture in a steady stream into egg whites. Mixture will double in volume, so be careful. When fully incorporated, turn mixer off and let stand for 1 minute. Volume will reduce. Continue beating on medium until mixture thickens and sticks to beater. Remove from stand and add pistachios and orange zest. While still warm, pour out onto prepared sheet tray. Let cool completely, then place pan in freezer for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove and turn torrone out onto cutting board. Using a chef’s knife in a straight-down motion, cut into small rectangles, approximately ¾-by-1½-inch. Serve.
Milk ChoColate-alMond toffee Recipe by beth Dowell, owneR, tallgRass toffee co. tallgrasstoffee.com
“This recipe is the most popular among my clients. It’s easy to make; extra stirring is the only difficult bit. Watch the temperature closely, especially near the end, to prevent burning. The candy thermometer will be a lifesaver!” –Beth Dowell Yields | 1 large sheet pan | 91⁄3 ⅓ ½ 7 2 3
sticks salted butter cup water, plus more as needed cups sugar lbs whole almonds lbs milk chocolate, melted chopped almonds (optional)
Photo By teresA FloyD
| Preparation | In a heavy-bottomed saucepan over low heat, add butter and water. When butter is mostly melted, add sugar and stir until all sugar is wet. Allow mixture to heat until bubbling across top. At this point, begin slowly stirring. When a candy thermometer reads 290°F, add almonds. Keep stirring and heat until mixture reaches 300°F. If mixture is not staying together before then, add water and continue stirring. Careful; mixture will burn quickly if temperature goes past 300°F. At 300°F, pour onto a full sheet pan and smooth into an even layer with spatula. Allow to cool for 15 minutes while melting chocolate. Pour melted chocolate over top and spread evenly. If desired, add chopped almonds on top while chocolate is still hot. Allow to cool completely at room temperature. Break up into desired-sized pieces and serve.
P â tes de Fruits Recipe by bRian pelletieR, owneR and chief chocolatieR, KaKao chocolate Modified fRoM ChoColates and ConfeCtions by peteR GRewelinG kakaochocolate.com
“The best fruits to use for the purée are fresh fruits… fresh strawberries, raspberries, peaches, apples, cherries or blueberries are all great options. For the holidays, you can use fun tropical fruits, like passionfruit or pineapple. You can buy premade purée, but I recommend making your own for a fresher, more vibrant flavor.” –Brian Pelletier Yields | 81 1-by-1-inch candies | fRuit puRée
oil 2 cups fruit, cleaned and chopped (such as pineapple, passionfruit, raspberries, cherries or blueberries), more as needed lemon juice, to taste pâtes de fRuits
6 oz liquid fruit pectin (2 3-oz envelopes) 2 cups fruit purée (see recipe below) 3 cups sugar, plus more for sprinkling and coating juice of ½ a lemon
| Preparation – Fruit Purée | Line a tray with plastic wrap that’s been lightly coated with oil on both sides, ensuring it’s tight into all corners and eliminating as many bubbles and wrinkles as
PhOTO By CheRyL WALLeR
possible. Tray should be at least 9-by-9 inches – a bigger pan will yield thinner pieces. In a blender or food processor, combine fruit, adding lemon juice to taste, to make at least 2 cups. Purée until smooth.
| Preparation – Pâtes de Fruits | Add pectin to a bowl and set near stove.
In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan (4 quarts or larger) over medium heat, combine purée and sugar and stir continuously with a silicone spatula until temperature reaches 238°F on a candy thermometer. Constant stirring keeps purée from scorching bottom of pan. When the mixture reaches 238°F, add pectin, stirring continuously, and return to boil. Boil for 1 minute longer. Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice. Pour purée into prepared tray, scraping as much as possible from pan. Shake tray to distribute evenly. Sprinkle sugar over entire top while mixture is still hot. Set aside to cool completely. Once cool, invert on a cutting board and remove plastic wrap. Using a lightly oiled knife, slice into squares and roll pieces in sugar. Candy will keep for weeks at room temperature and will become firmer over time as the pectin continues to cure. Store in a sealed container when desired consistency is reached.
Authentic German Style Open-air Christmas Market Featuring:
November 27-December 23
Over 30 National & International Vendors Horse-drawn Trolley Rides • Food Heated Tent • Santa House Gingerbread Displays A Limited Supply ly Live Reindeer of World-famous us Entertainment Steinbach Nutcrackers FREE ADMISSION from Germany Will Be Available le
Downtown Square • Belleville, IL (30 Public Square)
bellevillechristkindlmarkt.com • 618-233-6769 • 800-677-9255
Reserve Online. Pick Up in Store. shop.wfm.com
Inspired Local Food Culture
december 2015
77
ChoColaTe-DippeD pepperminT meringue Cookies Recipe by Natasha GoellNeR, owNeR, Natasha’s MulbeRRy & Mott natashasmulberryandmott.com
“These are easy to make, and you can color them, add extracts or dip them in chocolate to add some variation and make them a bit more special for your family. When a meringue recipe says stiff peaks, you’re looking for smooth meringue that holds its shape and resembles the peak on a Dairy Queen ice cream cone.” –Natasha Goellner Yields | 18 to 24 cookies | ½ 1 4 1⁄8 1 3 ½ 1
cup water cup plus 1 Tbsp granulated sugar large egg whites pinch salt tsp cream of tartar tsp peppermint extract green and red food coloring cups dark chocolate tsp vegetable oil cup crushed candy canes
| Preparation | Preheat oven to 215°F and prepare a parchment-lined sheet pan. In a saucepan over high heat, combine water and sugar and bring to a boil. While sugar syrup is cooking, in a stand mixer with whisk attachment on high, start whipping egg whites. Once egg whites have a little bit of white foam forming, add salt and cream of tartar. Continue whipping on high speed. When sugar syrup reaches 238°F on a candy thermometer, remove from heat and slowly pour into whipping egg whites. Continue whipping on high until stiff peaks form. Remove from mixer and fold in peppermint extract. Fit a pastry bag with a medium-sized star tip. Using a small paintbrush, draw lines of either red or green food coloring on inside of bag, from tip all the way to top of bag. Scoop meringue into bag and pipe out circles of meringue approximately 3 inches in diameter onto prepared sheet pan. Once all meringue has been piped out, bake for about 1 hour. When finished, cookies will feel soft but dried out; they will harden up and dry out more after removing from oven. While cookies are cooling, melt chocolate over a double boiler and add vegetable oil. Stir until completely incorporated. Dip half of each cookie into chocolate and place on parchment. Sprinkle crushed candy canes on top of chocolate before it sets. Do not refrigerate. Serve.
Get into the kitchen with four of the pastry chefs and bakers featured here in the December episode of Feast TV.
photo by teresa floyd
GinGerbread briGadeiro
phOtO by teReSA flOyd
Recipe by MaRcella ibaRguRen, owneR and pastRy chef, bRigabon candy co. facebook.coM/bRigabon
“Browning the butter adds a nice flavor, but skipping that step also works. Cook brigadeiro only until it starts pulling away from the pan. If you overcook, it will be too hard to shape when it cools – it should melt in your mouth when you bite into it. Along with sparkling sugar, you can also roll balls in gingerbread cookie crumbs to accentuate the cookie’s flavor.” –Marcella Ibarguren
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Yields | 24 balls | 1 2 ½ ¼ 1⁄8 1⁄8 1½
can condensed milk tsp molasses tsp ground cinnamon tsp ground ginger tsp ground clove tsp salt Tbsp butter rinds from 1⁄3 lemon white sparkling sugar (for garnish)
| Preparation | In a medium bowl, add condensed milk and molasses. Stir to combine. Add spices and salt; stir until there are no clumps and set aside. In a medium saucepan over low heat, melt butter. As it starts to bubble, make sure to swirl pan occasionally until butter is browned and dark golden flecks appear at bottom. In saucepan, combine browned butter with milk mixture. Add lemon rinds – making sure bitter white pith isn’t included – and cook over low to medium heat, stirring constantly until mixture thickens and starts pulling away from sides of pan. Remove rinds, remove from heat and allow to cool, 1 to 2 hours. Once completely cool, grease hands with a bit of butter and shape into bite-sized balls, roughly ½ ounce each. Roll in sugar and place in small candy cup. Serve.
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Visit feastmagazine.com for an extra recipe for chocolate-dipped marshmallows with toasted coconut by Russell Ping, chef-owner of Russell’s on Macklind in St. Louis.
feastmagazine.com or call bethany christo aat 314.475.1244
Kakao Chocolate
Cellar Rat Wine
Corporate gifts, big bottles, gift cards, or 1701 Baltimore Ave, Kansas City, MO 64108 even secret santa... Cellar Rat is the place! 816.221.6463 cellarratwine.com
Kakao Chocolate uses only the finest all-natural ingredients, with no artificial flavors, colors, preservatives or sweeteners. They’re handdipped confections will make the perfect gift this holiday season.
STL
Multiple locations; kakaochocolate.com
Bissingers This 17” hand-painted showstopper Santa is crafted with premium European chocolate. Find this and other holiday ideas at the newest Bissinger’s location in West County Center.
KC
Multiple locations; bissingers.com
STL
Holiday Gift Guide T
STL
hird Degree Glass Factory
This blown and etched glass snowflake bowl by Jes Kopitske is just one of hundreds of handmade 5200 Delmar Blvd. St. Louis, MO 63108 gifts in the gift shop and gallery at Third Degree Glass Factory. 314.367.4527 www.stlglass.com
T
he Culinary Center of KC
KC
The Culinary Center of Kansas City offers professional cookware for the home cook. It’s hand-crafted and personalized with inspirational quotes making it the perfect gift for the foodies on your gift list.
7920 Santa Fe Drive, Overland Park, KS 66204 913.341.4455 kcculinary.com
Starrs
NHB Knifeworks
For the wine lover on your list, choose one of the wooden gift box sets at Starrs, a wine and specialty grocer. The gift set is filled with artisan cheese, wine and other gourmet foods, starting at $50. 1135 S Big Bend Blvd Richmond Heights, MO 63117 314.781.2345 starrs1.com
STL T
all GrassToffee
Tall Grass Toffee specializes in corporate gifts. Send them your client list and they'll do all the rest. You can email orders to tallgrasstoffee@gmail.com.
KC
14406 W 100th St Lenexa, KS 66215 913.599.2158 tallgrasstoffee.com
STL
Beautiful, yet functional custom made Knifeworks. Choose this Ocean Blue, stainless steel design made with a hand-cast, hand-crafted handle. 4155 Beck Avenue, St. Louis, MO 63116 314.776.3800 www.nhbknifeworks.com
Larder & Cupboard
Add a deep, smoky flavor to your dishes with the Smokehouse Collection of all-natural wood fired sea salts from Larder & Cupboard. They’ve packaged three varieties in a unique gift set complete with a glass serving tray and salt spoons. 7310 Manchester Road, Maplewood, MO 63143 314.300.8995 larderandcupboard.com
STL
PRESENTS: PRESENTS:
12 days of holiday giveaways
Best of
St. Charles County
For more holiday gift ideas, you can also view featured items in our online
Holiday Giveaway! We will be posting one new item every day to Facebook and Twitter, starting on Wednesday, Dec. 9. The same item will be posted to both social-media outlets. All you have to do to enter is like the daily Facebook posts or retweet the daily tweets on the items to have your name entered in the drawing for them. There will be 48 hours to share each daily item. You can view all of the giveaway items in a slideshow on feastmagazine.com.
Purchase Purchase tickets tickets today, today, enjoy enjoy what’s what’s best in in St. St. Charles Charles and and be be the the first first to to best at our our inaugural inaugural know the winners at Best of St. Charles County Event. WHEN: DECEMBER 15 FROM 6:00 - 9:00 PM WHERE: THE FOUNDRY ARTS CENTRE HOW MUCH: $10.00 IN ADVANCE ($15.00 AT THE DOOR) MUST BE 21+ TO ENTER
TICKETS INCLUDE complimentary Tastings from: • Rocky Mountain Chocolate • With A TwisT • Cupcake Amore • Flinkles Sprinkles • Cardinal Sin Vodka • Standard Brewing • Top Tier Cheesecake
• Design to Brew • Brass Rail • Noboleis Vineyards • Sweetology • Se7en Cupcakes • Gettemeier’s Bar & Grill
You need to be a Feast Magazine Facebook or Twitter follower to participate, so follow us today! TTOO PPURCHASE URCHASE TTICKETS ICKETS OORR M MORE ORE IN INFORMATION, FORMATION, VVISIT VISIT: ISIT:
STLtoday.com/BestofStCharles /BestofStCharles
Inspired Local Food Culture
december 2015
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Celebrate the holiday season with a riCh and festive fish and seafood feast inspired by a southern italian tradition. story and recipes by shannon Weber
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photoGraphy by Jennifer silverberG
Feast of the Seven Fishes is, in a word, mysterious. Revered by some and unknown to many, even the origins of the traditional Christmas Eve celebration are murky at best. Most point to a tradition called La Vigilia, which translates to the vigil that began in southern Italy and recalls the wait for the birth of Jesus as the foundation for the Feast. This is a “fast" of sorts; meat was (and is) reserved for Christmas Day, with a select few omitting dairy from the evening, as well. Mention the Feast of the Seven Fishes in Italy, however, and you’ll be met with perplexed faces and blank stares; the Feast – as ItalianAmericans know it, at least – isn’t known by the same name in Italy. Traditions always have their roots, no matter how they translate across time or geography: These roots run deep, even though the sacred tradition bears a new name and rules that vary from family to family. Some hold to the seven fish-centric dishes the name suggests – perhaps originating in the Catholic Church’s seven sacraments or God’s seventh day of rest as described in the Old Testament – while others claim nine, for the Holy Trinity of three times three, or 10 for the Stations of the Cross. Many people number their dishes based on apostolic head counts: 12 dishes for the whole group, 11 to recognize the apostles excluding Judas or 13, which forgives Judas and adds Jesus to the tally. Whatever the number of dishes or the individual family tradition, the feeling is steadfastly the same. It’s a coming together, a moment in time celebrated annually with people you love, and that specific brand of joy is mirrored in the meal. Each course is vibrant, full of life, a spectacle. Individually perfect on their own, these recipes are at their best together, much like the people who will partake in their goodness. But this isn’t all show and no substance: Indeed, substance abounds in the care taken during preparation, in the mindfulness of tradition and in the bounty you bring to the table. This holiday season, feast. Feast with family and friends. Mark time, make note, take a moment with those around you to recognize and celebrate the year as it draws to a close. Editor’s notE: When prepared as a
whole, the following feast serves six to eight guests, averaging smaller portions of each dish per person. The serving sizes listed with each dish refer to individual preparations of each dish.
Polenta Squares with Kale Pesto and Spiced Shrimp Make the polenta squares and kale pesto the day before and cook the shrimp just before guests arrive; your starter will be perfect, and you’ll save valuable time in the kitchen. Yields | 24 to 30 squares | KalE PEsto
1 1 1 ¼ ½ ½
water ice water bunch Tuscan kale, thick stems removed clove garlic oz Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese cup fennel fronds, plus more for garnish cup blanched almonds juice of 1 lemon cup olive oil, more to taste sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
PolEnta squarEs
1 2½ 1 2 3 1 ½
cup chicken stock cups water cup polenta oz Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese Tbsp unsalted butter tsp kosher salt tsp freshly ground black pepper
sPicEd shrimP
3 2 ½ ¼ 1
Tbsp olive oil cloves garlic tsp ground fennel seeds tsp smoked paprika lb raw shrimp (26/30 count), peeled and deveined (leave tails on if you wish) small handful fennel fronds (for garnish)
| Preparation – Kale Pesto | In a large pot over high heat, heat enough water to cover kale until boiling. In a large bowl near the stove, prepare ice water bath. Add kale to boiling water and blanch for 1 minute, then transfer quickly
to ice water bath to stop cooking. When cool, wring kale out between towels until excess water has been removed. In the bowl of a food processor, add kale, garlic, cheese, fennel fronds, almonds and lemon juice; pulse to combine. With motor running, stream in olive oil until mixture reaches desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper and refrigerate, tightly covered, until ready to use.
| Preparation – Polenta Squares | In a large saucepan over high heat, bring stock and water to a boil; whisk rapidly as you slowly stream in polenta. Continue to whisk until polenta begins to thicken. Allow to simmer over mediumlow heat until very thick, 25 to 30 minutes. Add cheese and butter; stir to melt and incorporate. Add salt and pepper. Line a lipped quarter sheet pan with nonstick aluminum foil, pressing tightly to edges so foil goes up and over sides. Pour in polenta and smooth top with spatula. Allow to cool to room temperature, then place in refrigerator for at least 2 hours until firm. When ready to bake and serve, preheat oven to 350°F. Lift out polenta slab using foil as a handle; use a large, thin knife to slice into 24 to 30 squares. Place on a half sheet pan and bake for 10 to 12 minutes, just until warmed through.
| Preparation –Spiced Shrimp | In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat oil. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, 30 seconds. Add spices and continue to cook 30 seconds more. Add shrimp and cook until pink and cooked through, shaking pan or stirring frequently, 4 minutes. Transfer to plate. | To Serve| Lay warmed polenta squares on a large platter. Spoon 1 teaspoon kale pesto over each square and spread as desired. Top each with 1 spiced shrimp and garnish with fennel frond. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Fried Smelt Salad with Sorrel and Buttermilk-Herb Dressing Smelt are easy to find frozen and already prepped for cooking in most well-stocked international and seafood markets. The way the fish’s saltiness plays off crisp, sweet greens and cooling buttermilk dressing will make you want to cook with smelt more often. Serves | 4 | Buttermilk-HerB Dressing
1 ¼ 2 ½ 2 ½
cup sour cream cup red wine vinegar cloves garlic, smashed cup fresh parsley leaves Tbsp finely diced chives, plus more to finish cup fresh buttermilk sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
FrieD smelt
2⁄3 1⁄3 1½ ¾ ¼ 1½ 3
cup finely ground cornmeal cup unbleached all-purpose flour tsp garlic powder tsp kosher salt tsp cayenne pepper lbs smelt, cleaned, heads removed Tbsp olive oil
AssemBly
8 2 ½ 1
oz red and green butter lettuce, washed, leaves separated oz sorrel leaves small red onion, sliced into thin crescents small fennel bulb, very thinly sliced sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
| Preparation – Buttermilk-Herb Dressing | In the bowl of a food processor, add sour cream, vinegar, garlic, parsley and chives; pulse to blend. Transfer to jar and add buttermilk, 1 tablespoon at a time, until mixture reaches desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper and chill in refrigerator at least 1 hour to blend flavors. | Preparation – Fried Smelt | In a large zippered freezer bag, combine cornmeal, flour, garlic powder, salt and cayenne pepper; seal and shake to combine. Add smelt and toss again to coat outsides of fish. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat and add oil. Prepare a paper towel-lined plate. When skillet is hot, add coated smelt to pan – working in batches as needed – and fry until golden all over, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to plate to drain.
| Assembly | Arrange butter lettuce leaves on a large platter and throw sorrel leaves over top. Scatter onion and fennel slices over and top with smelt. Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately with buttermilk-herb dressing.
Cold Calamari-Sweet Pea Salad with Watercress Don’t be a hero and attempt to break down a whole squid here; you don’t need the mess. Instead, seek out flash-frozen whole tubes and tentacles you can quickly clean and cook. Serves | 4 to 6 | 3 2 2 1 2 2 ¼ 1 1 to 2 ¾
2
Tbsp olive oil, divided Tbsp finely diced shallot cloves garlic, minced Fresno chile, seeds removed, finely diced tsp red wine vinegar Tbsp chopped fresh mint leaves cup chopped fresh parsley leaves juice of 2 lemons lb calamari tubes and tentacles, cleaned, tubes cut into ¼-inch rings bunches watercress leaves (to serve) cup frozen sweet green peas, thawed, cooked and chilled (to serve) sea salt and freshly ground black pepper lemons, sliced into wedges or thin rings (to serve)
| Preparation | In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add shallot and cook until tender, 1 minute. Add garlic and chile; stir and cook until fragrant, 30 seconds. Add vinegar and herbs; remove from heat and add lemon juice. Transfer mixture to a bowl or jar and set aside. Wipe down pan and add remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil; heat to medium high. Add calamari and cook until curled and opaque, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl; add lemon-herb mixture and toss to coat. Cover tightly and transfer to refrigerator for 1 hour to chill and allow flavors to blend.
| To Serve | Arrange watercress leaves on a large platter. Add peas to calamari, toss again to coat and season with salt and pepper. Pour cold calamari-sweet pea salad over top of watercress leaves and serve cold with lemon.
Capellini with Scallops, Spinach and Pine Nuts Bay scallops are inexpensive and can be just as gorgeous as their larger counterparts; they just need the right dish. Here, they float atop a spinachswirled pasta like jewels in the ocean. Serves | 6 to 8 | 2 2 ¼ 2 2⁄3 3
Preparing this much fresh fish is an impressive feat and might seem overwhelming, but therein lies the secret: These dishes are built for maximum enjoyment by guests and hosts alike. When preparing a menu such as this, strategy is everything. Three days ahead: Buy frozen fish and baccalà. Branzino, prepared smelt, calamari, and even shrimp and bay scallops might be easier to obtain frozen than fresh, depending on where you’re shopping. Baccalà needs to leach out salt in a water bath for around 48 hours, so begin the process this evening. One TO TwO days ahead: Gather remaining ingredients (save any fresh fish or fragile greens and vegetables). Transfer frozen fish to refrigerator to thaw, according to size and time needed for each. One day ahead: Begin your prep. Make pestos, sauces, dressings and broth; cook quinoa and toast nuts. If it will hold up well, make it. Anything you can do ahead, you should do ahead. MOrning Of: Purchase fresh fish and remaining produce and continue prep on things that can hold through the day. Chill wine, ready platters, gather fresh flowers and plan your table arrangement. Bring sauces back up to temperature, portion herbs, grate cheese and chop what can be chopped. The resT is up TO yOu: Organize your dishes based on the space, setup and size of your kitchen. Determine which pots, pans and cookware will be used for which recipes and in what order things will come to your table (or if they’ll arrive all at once). Guests love to help, so set them to work washing greens, chopping herbs and rolling struffoli balls for later; they’ll enjoy the time spent in the kitchen with you, and it makes the time together all the more special.
16 8 1½ 2 to 3
Tbsp olive oil, divided cloves garlic, minced cup dry white wine cups heavy cream oz finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese sea salt and freshly ground black pepper salted water oz capellini or thin spaghetti oz washed baby spinach leaves lbs bay scallops Tbsp roughly chopped fresh parsley leaves (for garnish) fat pinch chile flakes (for garnish)
| Preparation | In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil; stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, 30 seconds. Add wine and let bubble; reduce heat to medium low and cook, 1 minute. Add cream and heat until sauce begins to reduce and thicken. Add cheese, whisking to melt and incorporate. Season generously with salt and pepper. Keep sauce warm until ready to serve. In a large pot, bring salted water to a boil; add pasta and cook according to package directions; drain. While pasta cooks, add spinach to cream sauce and cook over medium-low heat until just wilted. Add cooked pasta; toss to combine. In a large skillet, add remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and heat over medium high. Add scallops and cook, stirring frequently, until opaque and cooked through, 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Pile pasta into a large, shallow bowl; pour scallops over top. Scatter parsley leaves and chile flakes over top; serve immediately.
Baccalà alla Puttanesca with Grilled Bread We’ve all heard of baccalà, or salted cod; here’s your chance to cook it. The days-ahead soak is critical to remove the salt that preserves the gorgeous codfish: Take your time, and you’ll be rewarded with perfectly plump fillets ready to swim inside a briny tomato sauce. This recipe calls for 1 pound baccalà as the fish is sold in plastic bags, salted, in the refrigerated section of any meat or seafood department, equaling 1 pound. Otherwise, ask your fishmonger for two baccalà. Serves | 4 | Baccalà
1
lb baccalà water
Puttanesca sauce
2 3 1 2 1 2 ¾ 2⁄3
Tbsp olive oil cloves garlic, minced 2-oz tin oil-packed anchovies, drained, finely chopped Tbsp tomato paste 28-oz can San Marzano whole peeled tomatoes, plus juice Tbsp drained capers cup pitted and roughly chopped large green olives cup pitted and roughly chopped large black olives sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Grilled Bread
1
large Tuscan boule or other rustic Italian bread, halved and sliced olive oil
| Preparation – Baccalà | Place baccalà in a glass baking dish large enough to comfortably contain them. Fill dish with water to cover fish, then seal with plastic wrap and transfer carefully to refrigerator. Change water out every 12 hours until fish has plumped and salt has been removed.
| Preparation – Puttanesca Sauce | In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat, heat olive oil. Add garlic and anchovies; stir and cook until fragrant, 30 seconds. Stir in tomato paste and continue to cook until slightly darkened, 2 minutes. Add tomatoes with juice and stir to incorporate. Using a potato masher or back of large fork, crush tomatoes down until chunky sauce forms. Stir and add capers and green and black olives. Bring to a bubble, reduce heat and let simmer for 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. While sauce simmers, preheat oven to 350°F. Remove baccalà from water bath and drain; pat dry with paper towels. Cut into 3-inch pieces. Add to shallow baking dish (preferably one with a lid) in a single layer. Once sauce has simmered and thickened, pour over fish and bake for 30 minutes until hot and bubbling.
| Preparation – Grilled Bread | Toward end of bake time, heat a grill pan to medium-high heat; brush bread slices with oil on both sides. Grill in batches until grill marks form and bread is toasted; set aside. | To Serve | Remove fish from oven and serve directly from dish using a large spoon to ladle out fish and sauce. Serve with grilled bread.
Roasted Rapini with Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto and Parmigiano-Reggiano Rapini – also known as broccoli rabe – is bitter, dramatic and quintessentially Italian. Blanching takes the edge off, roasting gets the sugar going and dousing it with tomato pesto gives it sweet-and-sour flair. Serves | 6 to 8 | 1⁄3 2 1 3 3
cup plus 2 Tbsp olive oil, divided, plus more for oiling pan ice water bunches rapini (about 2 lbs), thicker stems removed 8½-oz jar oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained cloves garlic, smashed oz freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, divided sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
| Preparation | Preheat oven to 400°F. Brush lipped sheet pan lightly with olive oil.
In a large stockpot over high heat, bring enough water to cover rapini to a boil; meanwhile, fill a large bowl with ice water. When water boils, plunge rapini into water – working in batches if needed – and blanch for 2 minutes. Remove with tongs and transfer to ice bath; repeat with remaining rapini. When cool, remove rapini from ice water and wring out gently in towels to dry. Set aside. In the bowl of a food processor, add tomatoes, garlic, ₁⁄₃ cup olive oil, and 1 ounce (₁⁄8 cup) cheese; run motor for 30 seconds until blended; season with salt and pepper. Add rapini to a large bowl; toss with 2 tablespoons olive oil to coat. Add tomato pesto and use tongs to toss until evenly distributed. Pour out onto prepared pan and top with any remaining pesto. Roast for 20 minutes. In last few minutes of roasting, sprinkle remaining cheese over top. Slide onto large serving platter and season with salt and pepper. Serve.
Clams and Mussels in Tomato-Saffron Broth
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Bivalves are always impressive, but the key to getting them right is in the details. Your fishmonger will typically check for dead clams and mussels when he or she portions them out, but double-check as you clean and prep them for steaming. Serves | 4 to 6 | 3 ¼ 4 ½ 1
Tbsp olive oil cup finely diced shallot cloves garlic, minced cup dry white wine 28-oz can San Marzano whole peeled tomatoes, drained with ½ cup juice reserved 1 cup fish or chicken stock ¼ tsp chile flake ½ tsp saffron threads ¼ cup roughly chopped fresh parsley leaves, plus more for serving sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 lb littleneck clams 1½ lbs mussels grilled bread (to serve)
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| Preparation | In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat, heat olive oil. Add shallot; cook until softened, 1 to 2 minutes. Add garlic and cook for 30 seconds until fragrant, stirring often. Add wine and allow to bubble, 1 minute; add tomatoes and use a potato masher to gently crush until chunky sauce forms. Add reserved tomato juice, stock, chile flakes, saffron and parsley; stir to combine and bring to a bubble. Reduce heat and allow mixture to simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Scrub clams and mussels with a stiff brush to remove sand; rinse in cold water. Transfer tomato broth to a large, heavy stockpot; cover and bring to a boil over medium heat. Tip clams and mussels into broth, cover tightly and increase heat to high. Steam for 5 minutes, shake to distribute, and lower heat to medium high; continue to steam for 2 to 4 minutes longer, until all shells have opened.
| To Serve | Transfer clams and mussels to a large, shallow bowl; pour broth over top. Scatter fresh parsley leaves over and serve familystyle with grilled bread.
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First Fridays
december 4th
Mark your Calendar! On the First Friday of every month, thousands of residents and visitors fill the sidewalks of the Crossroads in Kansas City, enjoying what has become the city’s liveliest and most popular event. Arts organizations, galleries, studios, and a wide variety of local businesses feature regional and national artists as well as live entertainment starting at 5 p.m.
Inspired Local Food Culture
december 2015
87
Citrus-Herb Stuffed Branzino with Red Quinoa Whole fish are showstoppers, especially when laid out on a bed of red and green sides and garnishes for the holidays. Save yourself some time and effort by asking your fishmonger to clean the fish for you. You’ll want your branzino descaled, gutted and butterflied, with the bones left in so the fish holds together when cooking. If you’re feeling adventurous and want to try your hand at preparing the fish, grab a few practice branzino, untouched, fire up the Internet and head to YouTube – a fabulous source for how to break down fish, step by step. If I can learn this way, so can you. When portioning out the fish, take extra care to remove all pin bones. Serves | 4 | Citrus-Herb stuffed branzino
1to 2 Tbsp olive oil 2 whole branzino, 2 to 2½ lbs total, cleaned, scaled and gutted, bones left intact kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 sprigs fresh rosemary small bunch fresh parsley small bunch fresh thyme 2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced 3 lemons (2 sliced in ¼-inch rings; 1 halved and cut in ¼-inch half-circle slices) red Quinoa
1 1¾ 1 ½ 1½ 2
cup thoroughly rinsed red quinoa cups water clove garlic, minced cup loosely packed, chopped fresh parsley leaves tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves tsp fresh thyme leaves pinch chile flakes juice of 2 lemons zest of 1 lemon 1⁄3 cup dry-toasted pine nuts kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 to 3 oz baby arugula (to serve)
| Preparation – Citrus-Herb Stuffed Branzino | Preheat oven to 425°F. Line a lipped sheet pan with aluminum foil, up and over sides; brush oil lightly over foil. Generously season branzino with salt and pepper inside cavity and out. Stuff branzino with herbs, garlic and lemon slices from top to bottom, evenly distributing ingredients throughout. Place on prepared pan leaving a little space between fish, and place lemon rings around fish. Transfer pan to oven to roast until fish is cooked through, 22 to 25 minutes. Discard lemon slices and herbs stuffed in fish after roasting; keep lemon rings for garnish.
| Preparation – Red Quinoa | In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add quinoa and water; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, add garlic, cover and allow to just simmer for 13 to 15 minutes until quinoa is cooked and no water remains. Uncover and add herbs, chile flakes, lemon juice and zest, and pine nuts; toss to incorporate and season with salt and pepper. | To Serve | Lay arugula around perimeter of a large platter. Add quinoa, filling in toward center and making a bed for fish. Lay both fish in center, garnish with lemon rings and serve immediately.
Honey-Glazed Struffoli Struffoli is a classic Italian dessert of miniature, honey-soaked donut holes you form into a wreath or tree, a sweet last bite after your feast has ended. Serves | 8 to 10 | Dough
6 2 ½ ¼ 3 3 to 3½ ½ 1 to 2 3
large eggs Tbsp granulated sugar zest of 2 oranges tsp almond extract tsp orange extract Tbsp melted and cooled unsalted butter cups unbleached all-purpose flour, divided, more for work surface tsp baking powder Tbsp finely ground cornmeal quarts vegetable oil
honey Syrup
1¼ ¼ ¼ 1 to 2
cups local honey juice of 1 orange cup granulated sugar cup finely chopped blanched almonds (for garnish) Tbsp white or multicolor nonpareils (for garnish)
| Preparation – Dough | In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment on medium speed, beat eggs, sugar, zest and extracts until frothy. Stream in butter; stir until incorporated. Replace paddle attachment with dough hook and add 2 cups flour, then baking powder; mix on low until dough begins to form. Continue adding remaining flour, ¼ cup at a time, until dough comes together in a smooth, soft ball. Flatten into a disc, wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Lay parchment paper on a lipped sheet pan; sprinkle with cornmeal. Using a large, thin knife on a lightly floured work surface, cut a ¼-inch strip off unwrapped dough. Cut off marble-sized pieces and roll between palms, placing on prepared pan; repeat process. In a large, heavy skillet at least 6 inches deep, heat oil to 375°F using a deep-frying thermometer. Line 2 plates with paper towels. Add 15 to 20 balls to a large metal spider strainer and lower and tip gently in to release. Fry for 2 minutes, turning them in oil; lift and transfer to plates to dry. Repeat process, piling donuts on top of one another.
| Preparation – Honey Syrup | In a small saucepan over medium heat, add honey, orange
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juice and sugar and stir until sugar has dissolved and honey is bubbling. Allow to bubble for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring constantly; remove from heat and set aside. Add donuts to a large stockpot; pour hot honey over top and gently toss syrup with donuts until coated; continue stirring for 5 minutes.
| To Serve | For a wreath shape, lightly oil outside of a straight-sided glass and place in
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NAME ______________________________________________________________________________________________________
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Inspired Local Food Culture
december 2015
89
THE WHEEL DEAL. From holiday cheese plates and mac ‘n’ cheese to grilled cheese sandwiches and
cheesecake, we love cheese in all its various forms. This month, we invited our Instagram followers to share photos of cheesy starters, sides and sweets by using the hashtag #feastgram. To learn how two sisters have transformed their family’s dairy farm into an award-winning cheesemaking business, flip to p. 54 for a profile of Marcoot Jersey Creamery in Greenville, Illinois. For a taste of other rich and indulgent eats to enjoy this holiday season, turn to p. 66 for a profile on L’Osage Caviar in Osage Beach, Missouri, or learn how regional wineries are producing ice wine on p. 63.
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| 1 | kate gilliam @kateheartscake My neighbor @MegnMach told the cheese specialist that she was having three people over, but it’s just the two of us. | 2 | Baetje Farms @baetjefarms Making wheels of Miette today #GoatCheese #STLEats #StraightFromTheFarm #CheeseAddict
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| 3 | Best restaurants in stl @bestrestaurantsinstl Hand-spun prosciutto cotto pizza: spinach, Gruyère cheese and roasted garlic crema #EatLocalSTL #Pizza #Lunchtime (At Marcella’s Mia Sorella) | 4 | katie lee Collier @katiespizzaandpasta Figs + burrata + prosciutto #EatTheLou #STLFoodie | 5 | Ça Va @cavakc New cheese plate today features @GreenDirtFarm Bossa, Dirt Lover and their experimental #Gouda #KansasCity | 6 | teresa Floyd @now_forager Cinnamon-sheep’s milk yogurt panna cotta with spiced poached pears and hazelnut-oat streusel are on Now, Forager today. Made with @GreenDirtFarm Only Ewe sheep’s milk yogurt and local, freshly picked pears.
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| 7 | spenCer pernikoFF @whiskeyandsoba Got them late night burger cravings... #STL #STLEats #StLouis (At Brasserie) | 8 | gus gus Fun Bus @gusgusfunbus Cheesecake at Small Batch, St. Louis, Missouri @SmallBatchSTL #Dessert #Blueberries #Cake #STL #StLouis | 9 | rex Hale @rexhale_57 More from Baetje Farms #CheshireMenu #Cheeses #ChefLife #STLEats
|6|
| 10 | strange donuts @strangedonuts Ain’t nuthing ta cluck wit. (At Byrd & Barrel)
|7|
Want to see your photos in the January issue of Feast?
Next month, our focus turns to pasta. From classic and comforting spaghetti and lasagna to housemade pappardelle and bucatini, we want to see the noodle dishes you’re making at home and ordering at local restaurants. To submit your photos for consideration, simply include the hashtag #feastgram and tag @feastmag on your Instagram photos beginning Tue., Dec. 1. 90
feastmagazine.com
DECEMBER 2015
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PHOTOGrAPHy COurTESy INSTAGrAM uSErS
#feastgram
New Year’s Eve Speakeasy Dinner you are invited to ring in the New Year, in 20’s era style and glamour.
Four Courses of Gourmet 20’s Era Fare with Champagne Toast --Special Vintage Cocktails --Dining by Candlelight --12.31.2015 from 5pm - 1am
VISIT: www.SanctuariaSTL.com/NYE Sanctuaria Wild Tapas, 4198 Manchester Avenue, Saint Louis, Missouri phone: 314.535.9700
ROCKIN’ NEW YEAR’S EVE Featuring: Delta Sol Revival
DRINK & APPETIZER SPECIALS! CHAMPAGNE TOAST AT MIDNIGHT! PARTY FAVORS FOR ALL! $15 COVER AT THE DOOR, OPENS AT 7:30PM, SHOW AT 8:00PM 636.724.8600 | 1200 South Main Street, St. Charles, MO 63301 Inspired Local Food Culture
DECEMBER 2015
91
HELP SUPPORT PEOPLE IN NEED THIS HOLIDAY SEASON. Look for the sign in-store with details on how to donate to The Salvation Army or Operation Food Search.
THANK YOU!
Š2015 Schnucks
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DECEMBER 2015