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SUNS H INE Summer is in full swing and Missouri wine country calls to us. The warm temperatures and clear blue skies create the need for adventure. Make the most of your wanderlust at one of our more than 125 Missouri Wineries. Spend the afternoon sampling some of our crisp, refreshing varietals while soaking in those beautiful rays. Plan your escape at missouriwine.org.
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Inspired Local Food Culture | Midwest
AUGUST 2015 FroM the staFF | 10 |
FEATURES | 31 |
This month we’re sipping coffee and creative cocktails in Kansas City and Margaritas and Palomas in University City, Missouri. We also catch up with Kevin Lemp of 4 Hands Brewing Co. in St. Louis and the founders of Mass Street Soda in Lawrence, Kansas.
from the PUBLISher
It’s party time.
| 12 |
dIgItaL content
What’s online this month.
| 14 |
feaSt tv
A peek at the August episode.
| 17 |
DINe This month we visit four restaurants across the region, including a new hot chicken and sandwich spot in St. Louis and a restaurant in Kansas City focused on elevated pub fare. In our monthly travel piece, Road Trip, writer Pete Dulin travels to Fayetteville, Arkansas, and shares where to dine, drink and stay this month during three big food-and-drink festivals. We also talk to chefs across the region to learn how they’re cooking and baking with lavender this summer.
DrINK
| 43 |
shoP We visit two regional shops this month – a new ice cream scoop shop in St. Louis, and a bakery and café in Kansas City that’s quickly become a neighborhood favorite. We also catch up with Aron Fischer, owner of Facture Goods in Boonville, Missouri, who makes beautiful artisan kitchen tools and utensils with reclaimed materials.
| 53 |
CooK | 54 | Seed to taBLe Farmer Crystal Stevens shares three ways to cook with summer heirloom tomatoes.
| 56 | myStery ShoPPer Buy it and try it: nopales.
| 60 | menU oPtIonS Celebratory Champagne mousse with apricot gelée and almond tuile is a refreshing, summer-perfect indulgence.
| 62 | Sweet IdeaS Pastry chef Christy Augustin celebrates Feast’s anniversary with decorated sugar cookies.
COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY Jonathan Gayman TABLE OF COnTEnTS PHOTO OF LOnDOn CALLInG PASTY CO. (P. 79) BY Brad Zweerink
67 95 to
Feast 50: celebrating this year’s winners, the hottest in the midwest
FOOD scene
THANKS for voting us one of your FEAST 50 Favorites!
ST. LOuiS’ MOST unique Wine eXperience Lunch • Dinner • Sunday RoBrunch* Private Parties • Wine Tastings Specialty Catering • Wine & Gift Shoppe *RoBrunch only at The MX location
Webster Groves, MO | Downtown St. Louis at The MX 314-963-0033 | 314-287-6300 www.robustwinebar.com
Magazine Volume 6
| Issue 8 | August 2015
Publisher Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com Director of Sales Angie Henshaw ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1298 EDITORIAL Senior Editor Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Managing Editor Nancy Stiles, nstiles@feastmagazine.com Associate Editor Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com Assistant Digital Editor Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor Mabel Suen Editorial Interns Macy Salama, Alex Wilking Proofreader Christine Wilmes Contributing Writers Christy Augustin, Ettie Berneking, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pete Dulin, Kyle Harsha, Valeria Turturro Klamm, Laura Laiben, Jane McCormick, Brandon and Ryan Nickelson, Matt Seiter, Matt Sorrell, Crystal Stevens, Shannon Weber ART Art Director Alexandrea Doyle, adoyle@feastmagazine.com Production Designer Jacklyn Meyer, jmeyer@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers Zach Bauman, Judd Demaline, Teresa Floyd, Jonathan Gayman, Jill Heupel, Emily Suzanne McDonald, Chris Mullins, Aaron Ottis, Ben Pieper, Jennifer Silverberg, Jessica Spencer, Alistair Tutton, Landon Vonderschmidt, Cheryl Waller, Brad Zweerink FEAST TV
producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Judd Demaline of Graine Films
COnTACT US Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor, St. Louis, MO 63101 314.475.1244, feastmagazine.com DISTRIbUTIOn To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Bill Morlock for St. Louis at bmorlock@stldist.com, Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com and Dirk Dunkle for Jefferson City and Columbia at dadunkle@columbiatribune.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2015 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC 8
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www.maryannstearoom.com www.mary Inspired Local Food Culture
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publisher’s letter
FeAst eVeNts
you are holding in your hands 100 pages filled with inspiration: inspiration to eat, inspiration to drink and inspiration to revisit local spots you love. Inspiration to get on the road and experience something new, to check out a place you’ve heard of, but never before tried. This is our annual Feast 50 Awards issue. It’s the issue in which we celebrate the best of the best in our region’s food-and-drink scene and it’s Watch the August episode of Feast TV on PBS stations across the region to learn how to prepare coffee-goat cheese panna cotta with spiced pecans. also our anniversary issue. This is our fifth birthday, a milestone to be sure. Five years ago, Feast was just an idea, and over the years we have grown and expanded in ways I hoped for and also in ways I never envisioned. When I dreamed up our tag line, Inspired Local Food Culture, the use of the word “inspired” was very intentional. My hope has always been that when you pick up a copy of Feast, click around on feastmagazine.com, follow us on social media or tune in and watch Feast TV, you’ll be inspired. Whether you’re motivated to experiment in the kitchen or drive out of your way for a bite of something delicious, as long as you, our readers, are impacted in a positive way by our work, then we’ve accomplished what we set out to do.
stl
Feast in the Park Through October, 5 to 8pm; rotating St. Louis County Parks
This weekly festival gathers great mobile eats and popular local bands in parks across St. Louis County. Get the full schedule in the Events section at feastmagazine.com. stl
whole Foods Market’s st. Louis vegMaster Competition Thu., Aug. 6; Whole Foods Market Galleria
In this vegetarian cooking competition, chefs from several local restaurants – not necessarily vegetarian in nature – will be challenged to make a vegetarian dish to sample from Beyond Meat Chicken-Free strips. stl
Feast TV taste & see Fri., Aug. 21, 7pm; Public Media Commons; ninenet.org
Enjoy a preview screening of an upcoming episode of Feast TV, as well as presentations and demos from chefs and artisans featured on the show, including Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. and 4 Hands Brewing Co. Enjoy complimentary small bites and drinks from Strange Donuts, Pappy’s Smokehouse, Chaumette Winery and more. stl
st. Louis world’s Fare Sat., Aug. 22 and Sun., Aug. 23; Forest Park; stlworldsfare.com
Experience this unique celebration of St. Louis’ past, present and future as the energy of the 1904 World’s Fair is rekindled. Join us for 1904 historic exhibits, live music, local eats and more. stl
4 Hands Collaboration series Beer dinner with stellina Mon., Aug. 24; Stellina; 314.256.1600
4 Hands Brewing Co. and Stellina team up to host a multicourse dinner in which each course is paired with a 4 Hands beer. stl
schnucks Cooks: Champagne Mousse, apricot Gelée and almond tuile Wed., Aug. 26, 6 to 9pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School; $40; schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704
What inspires us here at Feast is the creativity and dedication of those who are at the top of their game in the culinary world. Each day, I look forward to working with the incredible editors, writers, designers, photographers and videographers who make up the Feast team to document the deliciousness happening in the Midwest. It’s a pleasure and a privilege to do this work. So, cheers to all who make Feast what it is and to you, our readers, who encourage us to continue the journey.
Join us in the kitchen and learn how to make champagne mousse, apricot gelée and almond tuile; candied beet salad; tandoori chicken with roasted broccoli and new potatoes with lemon and parsley. In this class you’ll learn about two other decadent desserts, sabayon and zabaglione, and the differences between them. MO
washington County Home Grown Farm tour and Field dinner Sat., Aug. 29, 10am; Washington County Courthouse Farmers’ Market; $55; homegrownfarmtour.com
Until next time,
Feast 50 awards event series Sat., Aug. 29 and Sun., Aug. 30
Catherine Neville
in celebration of our annual feast 50 awards, we’re hosting a series of events in kansas city and st. louis, including coffee cuppings, wine pairing dinners, butchery demos and food-focused events at two breweries. flip to p. 66 for all the details.
Explore farm country and celebrate the growing season in historic Washington County during a free, self-guided tour featuring 13 venues highlighting the diversity of local farms and nearly 250 years of history in Washington County. KC
Midwest Flavors Cooking series: the art of seasoning Fri., Sept. 4, 6:30 to 9pm; The Culinary Center of Kansas City; $75; cookingschoolsofamerica.com/kcculinary
Feast and the Culinary Center of Kansas City are teaming up for a new series highlighting Midwest culinary treasures. In this inaugural class, we’ll focus on the art and technique of seasoning food with Kansas City’s own Wood + Salt. The class includes information, recipes, fantastic tastings, wine and a gift. stl
Cat’s Picks Wednesdays, 8:35am The BIG 550 KTRS
Tune in as Feast publisher Catherine Neville chats with host McGraw Milhaven and gives her weekly picks for the best places to eat and drink in the St. Louis area.
publisher@feastmagazine.com
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@cat_neville
@cat_neville
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DIGITAL CONTENT
hungry for more?
feastmagazine.com
connect with us daily:
The Feed: sTL DALIE’S SMOKEHOUSE: In June, Mike Emerson of Pappy’s Smokehouse and Skip Steele of Bogart’s Smokehouse in St. Louis opened Dalie’s Smokehouse in Valley Park, Missouri, featuring a brand-new menu of fromscratch barbecue and sandwiches.
Facebook. Go behind the scenes at food-and-drink
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MABEL SuEn
events across the region (like the annual Missouri Wine Competition) at facebook.com/feastmag.
TWITTeR. Follow @feastmag to learn about local
events (like Feast Your Eyes at Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis) at twitter.com/feastmag.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEnniFER SiLvERBERG
The Feed: kc BRIGABON CANDY CO.: In Kansas City, Marcella Ibarguren has launched Brigabon Candy Co., combining her professional pastry background and Brazilian heritage to create authentic brigadeiros. PInTeResT. Find recipes for classic summer staples (like a Juicy Lucy with homemade chipotle ketchup) on our Burgers board at pinterest.com/feastmag.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TERESA FLOYD
PHOTOGRAPHY BY @SPvEnnE
moRe on The Feed: Keep up with what’s happening in the region’s food-and-drink scene by visiting our daily updated news blog, The Feed, at feastmagazine.com/the-feed. We recently got a taste of chef Matt Bessler’s all-new menu at The Libertine in Clayton, Missouri, and took a look at The W, a new speakeasy-style bar in Lee’s Summit, Missouri. sPecIaL gIVeaWaY: Win a pair of tickets to Feast TV Taste & See on Fri., Aug. 21, at nine network’s Public Media
Commons in St. Louis. Just head to the Promotions section at feastmagazine.com for all the details.
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InsTagRam. Hashtag your local food-and-drink photos with #feastgram for a chance to see them in Feast! Details on p. 98.
Watch our videos and Feast TV.
youtube.com/FeastMagazine
©2015 BLUE MOON BREWING COMPANY, GOLDEN, CO BELGIAN WHITE, BELGIAN-STYLE WHEAT ALE
Discover more at BlueMoonBrewingCo.com.
Thank you for making us your
FEAST READERS CHOICE for STEAKHOUSE in 2015
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FEAST TV
TV
Look for the Feast TV splat throughout the magazine. It tells you which articles are part of this month’s episode!
watch this month’s episode to:
Segment 1: Get in the kitchen with chef Ed Heath at Cleveland-Heath, the acclaimed Edwardsville, Illinois, restaurant he owns with his wife, Jenny Cleveland.
Segment 2: Meet Andy Rieger and Ryan Maybee, founders of J. Rieger & Co., who have resurrected the historic Kansas City distillery.
Segment 3: Head to Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. in St. Louis for a cupping at the regional company’s new roasting facility. PHoToGRAPHy By JENNIFER SILVERBERG
In Edwardsville, Illinois, Cleveland-Heath has earned acclaim for its elevated comfort food with a focus on regional ingredients. In this year’s Feast 50 Awards (p. 68), we catch up with executive chef and co-owner Ed Heath, voted Chef of the Year in St. Louis, on the heels of his first James Beard Award nomination for Best Chef: Great Lakes.
Segment 4: Visit with Kansas City chef Alex Pope at his butchery, Local Pig, and adjacent sandwich shop, Pigwich.
feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors: MissouRi Wines
Whole Foods MaRket
the Raphael hotel
In August, reach for a bottle of Stone Hill Winery’s late harvest Vignoles. Feast TV producer Catherine Neville pairs it with goat cheese-coffee panna cotta.
Get cooking at home! Pick up the recipes and ingredients from the August Feast TV demo at the Brentwood and Town and Country locations of Whole Foods Market in the St. Louis area.
The Raphael Hotel is the official Kansas City hotel of Feast Magazine, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Country Club Plaza in the heart of Kansas City.
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In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to see Feast TV on Sat., Aug. 1 at 2pm; Mon., Aug. 3 at 1:30pm; and Sun., Aug. 9 at 4:30pm. Feast TV will also air throughout the month on nineCREATE.
The food is Creole, St. Louis style cooking. It’s a little spicy, little different, highly seasoned, and highly desired!
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In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) on Sat., Aug. 29 at 2:30pm.
You can watch Feast TV throughout midMissouri on KMOS (Channel 6) on Thu., Aug. 27 at 8:30pm and on Sun., Aug. 30 at 6:30pm.
Feast TV will air in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) at 10am on Sat., Aug. 1.
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where we’re dining
bite into this stacked blt on p. 20 photography by landon vonderschmidt
trending now: boozy ice cream
on trend
WRitten By MAcy sALAMA photogRAphy By Judd deMALine
Whether cocktail-inspired or beer-infused, scoop shops across the region are having fun with creative boozy ice cream flavors. mo
european-inspired
SPringFieLd, mo. Artful truffles and rich, flaky croissants line the case at
Elle’s Patisserie in springfield, Missouri, but baked goods aren’t the only treats being dished out. owner elle Feldman also loves making ice cream in classic and unexpected flavors. “our flavors and ideas are inspired by our travels,” she says. in the past, the shop has served scoops infused with Kahlúa, and its most popular ice cream is the guinness-coffee flavor. “i always have customers asking for it,” she says. Feldman’s latest ice cream flavors, which she hopes to have available in the shop by the end of summer, will have a european flair: Alsace pear inspired by wine from northeastern France and italian Bellini. Elle’s Patisserie, 1454 E. Cherry St., Springfield, Missouri, 417.832.2171, ellespatisserie.com
kC
happiest hour
kanSaS city. if you ask christopher elbow, founder of Glacé Artisan Ice Cream and his eponymous chocolate company, why boozy frozen treats are so hot right now, he’ll tell you it’s likely related to the booming craft-cocktail and craft-distilling movements – or at least, that’s what inspires his work at glacé. elbow often makes ice cream flavors with specific cocktails in mind, as well as his favorite spirit, bourbon. “My love for cocktails and spirits is my inspiration,” he says. “And then what matters is how we execute it.” the ice cream base is made from milk, cream, eggs and sugar. A spirit is then heated to remove the alcohol content but preserve its flavor before being combined with the base. elbow always taste-tests ingredients to find the right flavor combinations; he says the shop’s best-selling boozy ice cream flavor is chocolate-cherry-bourbon: “[the bourbon ice cream] goes well with fruit, especially cherries, and it’s also a natural match for chocolate.”
Glacé Artisan Ice Cream, multiple locations, glaceicecream.com
Banana-Bourbon Ice Cream Sundae
Stl
ice cream sauces
Recipe couRtesy Joy gRdnic chRistensen
Yields | 2 cups 2 1 1 ¼ 1
|
St. LoUiS. When The Fountain on Locust first started making “adult” ice
cups brown sugar stick unsalted butter cup bourbon, divided cup granulated sugar small banana, sliced into ¼-inch pieces vanilla ice cream (to serve) fresh whipped cream (to serve)
| Preparation | in medium saucepan over low heat, combine brown sugar and butter and melt until soft. Add ¼ cup bourbon and cook on low until mixture begins to boil. Add remaining bourbon and cook until sugar is completely dissolved. set aside. in a small bowl, add sugar and dip one side of each banana slice in sugar. transfer banana slices to a heat-proof surface, sugar-side up, and heat using a handheld kitchen torch until sugar is melted and golden brown. distribute bananas over ice cream, pour bourbon sauce over top and garnish with fresh whipped cream. 18
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AUGUST 2015
cream back in 2008, owner Joy grdnic christensen says every employee was told the same thing: “Make it like you’re making it for yourself.” grdnic christensen says this approach is the best way to ensure customer satisfaction with every order. she quips: “After a meal, you want dessert, you want a drink or you want ice cream, so what’s better than putting it all together?” Known as the “home of the ice cream Martini,” the Fountain on Locust has expanded its selection of boozy treats to include adult floats (made with sparking wine or beer), a full list of ice cream cocktails and adult ice cream sauces for topping scoops and sundaes. the sauces include flavors such as rum-raisin, banana-bourbon, hot fudge-Kahlúa and italian caramelized orange made with orange liqueur. The Fountain on Locust, 3037 Locust St., Midtown, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.535.7800, fountainonlocust.com
oNe oN oNe
kc
nicolette noel foster
featuring daily specials
Monday - Friday | Lunch & Dinner Saturday - Sunday | Dinner Only
executive pastry chef, paris brothers, inc. Written by Pete Dulin
KANSAS CITY.
nicolette noel Foster has been working in restaurants since she was a teenager. Classically trained at the Culinary institute of America in Hyde Park, new york, Foster moved to upstate new york after graduation to work at an upscale bistro where she made everything from freshly baked bread to ice cream. Within 24 hours of moving to Kansas City in 2012, she was hired as pastry chef at Michael Smith restaurant and extra Virgin by chef Michael Smith himself, which she describes as a formative experience. “Working for Michael was integral to my career as a professional pastry chef,” she says. Since joining Paris Brothers, Inc. in 2014, Foster has retooled the pastries and baked goods that are delivered fresh seven days a week to Parisi’s two cafés in the Kansas City area.
Parisi Café; 30 W. Pershing Road, Union Station, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.569.2399; and 5245 W. 116th Place, Park Place, Leawood, Kansas, 913.696.9999; parisicoffee.com
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What drew you to Paris Brothers, Inc. and Parisi Café? i admire the Paris brothers and their success in the industry, and i enjoy my unique position within the company. it’s a different pace than the usual restaurant job. i feel that i get to reach more individuals with my work, and i have the opportunity to truly showcase my passion for pastries. How did you change the pastry program at Parisi? i changed the existing recipes to both streamline and improve quality. For example, i changed the croissant to yield a lighter, flakier crust with a delicate, buttery interior for a more authentic european [pastry]. i also developed more interesting takes on classics like making the pain au chocolat with a rich chocolate dough, or making rice Krispie treats with from-scratch marshmallows, brown butter and cocoa nibs. the peach-brown butter scone combines fresh peaches with nutty brown butter and easily transitions from summer to fall. What are some of the best-selling menu items? Croissants are, literally, the bread and butter of our business. With five varieties, there is something for everyone. My personal favorite is the uniquely shaped rosemary-hamGruyère croissant. Do you incorporate Parisi coffee into your pastries? i recently used freshly roasted espresso in my signature French macarons. How convenient that the coffee is roasted just three floors above me! What’s your favorite pastry and coffee combination to start the day with? the French macaron is the perfect dessert, from the crunchy shell to the chewy interior to the unctuous filling, [with] black coffee – freshly roasted from the Parisi Artisan roasters coffee plant, of course.
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Inspired Local Food Culture
august 2015
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where we’re dining From new restaurants to renewed menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining across the region this month. KC
blvd tavern
PHOtOgraPHy by betHany CHriStO
written by Jenny Vergara
KANSAS CITY. blvd tavern is a dream come true for chef-owner Derek nacey and his wife, Meghan. Derek, a graduate of the Culinary institute of america in Hyde Park, new york, worked at Fedora Cafe & bar, Zin and Café allegro in Kansas City before settling into a corporate job as culinary director for Houlihan’s for the past seven years. after looking at restaurant spaces for quite some time, the couple finally decided to take over the former nica’s Lagniappe spot. after renovating the space, the couple opened blvd tavern in March.
stl
southern
although most of the dishes on the menu appear to be as american as apple pie, a closer look reveals that each dish offers a subtle international influence – think kimchi on fried chicken wings and a plate of tempurafried Japanese shishito peppers. it’s these international riffs that set blvd apart from other gastropubs in Kansas City. try the fish and chips, crispy beer-battered cod served with fries, mushy peas and a side of malt vinegar, or the grilled rochester white Hot, mini housemade pork-veal sausages served on a pillowy bun topped with pickled onions, cucumber and mustard seed.
written by LiZ MiLLer
ST. LouIS. “if Hattie b’s and Cochon had a love child, it would be this restaurant,”
says chef rick Lewis of Southern, a new 55-seat hot chicken and sandwich spot, which opened in June. Lewis, a 2014 James beard rising Star semifinalist, is referring to Cochon, the new Orleans butchery and sandwich shop, and Hattie b’s Hot Chicken, the popular hot chicken joint in nashville, as influences for Southern. the restaurant, which is a partnership with the team at neighboring Pappy’s Smokehouse, serves four styles of chicken: original, mild, cluckin’ hot and general tso’s. you can get a two- or three-piece meal with white or dark meat, four pieces of tenders or wings, a half bird or a la carte pieces. each chicken plate come with bread, pickles and two sides (including mashed potatoes with pan gravy, mac ‘n’ cheese and vinegar slaw). “i’m putting a lot of attention on sides,” Lewis says. “i want people to come in and be like, ‘Damn, that’s good chicken, but these mashed potatoes are killer; these pickles are killer.’” Sandwiches at Southern include fried bologna with pimento cheese and a sunny-side-up egg and the Cubano with pulled pork, sugar-cured ham, gruyère, ale mustard and bread-and-butter pickles. Southern, 3108 olive St., midtown, St. louis, missouri, 314.531.4668, stlsouthern.com
blvd tavern, 320 Southwest blvd., crossroads arts District, Kansas city, missouri, 816.421.1023, blvdtavernkc.com PHOtOgraPHy by ben PiePer
the roost
Ks
written by Pete Dulin | PhotograPhy by lanDon vonDerchmiDt
LAWRENCE, KS. manda Jolly and her
husband, Sean, founded The Roost two years ago, naming the restaurant after their family farm in western Kansas. a successful $25,000-plus Kickstarter campaign enabled the couple to totally renovate the space, which is now a beloved spot in the community. the restaurant serves homestyle breakfast-and-lunch eats, including the blt made with pecan wood-smoked bacon, the mushroom-leek omelette oozing with goddard Farm goat cheese and mac ‘n’ cheese with trottole
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pasta and béchamel and optional toppings such as roasted portobello mushrooms, tomatoes and bacon. cherry-almond coffee cake and gooey cinnamon rolls are just two must-try sweets at the roost. Save room for cocktails, such as the lavendula latte with honey, lavender and sage tequila, or a smoked piña colada with mezcal, grapefruit juice, orange bitters and agave. The Roost, 920 Massachusetts St., Lawrence, Kansas, 785.843.1110, 920mass.com
creek side pub
ONE ON ONE
stl
matthew daughaday
written by ettie berneking
SPRINGFIELD, MO. there’s nothing swanky about Creek Side Pub in Springfield,
chef-owner, reeds american table
Missouri, and that’s part of its charm. the crowds don’t come for dazzling décor or service; they come for two reasons: to enjoy the laid-back atmosphere and to chow down on homemade chips and guacamole. Situated along the banks of galloway Creek, the tiny bar and bistro draws large crowds that often spill out of its doors. the spot is a popular summer hangout, as it’s tucked away in the woods with a bike path winding by out front and a creek bubbling in back.
WRITTEN By BETHANy CHRISTO
MAPLEWOOD, MO. Growing up in University
City, Missouri, Matthew Daughaday remembers visiting nowshuttered U City Quality Foods and ordering the same turkey sandwich from the butcher, Stan, five times a week. It was just turkey, iceberg lettuce and Miracle Whip, but the beauty was in its freshness: the turkey sliced right in front of you, lettuce pulled directly from the head. Daughaday, formerly executive chef of Taste, is trying to recreate that simplicity and attention to detail at his soon-to-open neighborhood dinner spot (lunch and brunch to follow in coming months), Reeds American Table, in Maplewood, Missouri. In addition to Daughaday, its beverage director is Andrey Ivanov, formerly of Elaia and Olio, and Summer Wright is heading up desserts and pastries. Savory dishes include a pastrami beef tongue Reuben and grilled pork steak with Brussels sprouts slaw, while sweets include a blackberry crisp with cardamom, barley and ginger ice cream. We caught up with Daughaday (and briefly with Ivanov) to learn more about the new venture.
Limited staff, not to mention limited seating, is why owner bear gannaway has kept the menu so small. there are just four items to choose from: the muchlauded chicken salad sandwich served on a flaky croissant, a ham and cheese croissant, the Anti-Vegan Delight (a combination of mushrooms, avocado, tomatoes and cucumbers packed between – you guessed it – a buttery croissant) and the chips with guac or salsa. Chips are made to order and are nothing more than flour tortillas that gannaway cuts up and fries. they’re simple and delicious, crispy but still chewy, and they serve as the perfect vehicle for dollops of fresh guacamole. with live music on the occasional thursday night and every Friday and Saturday night, the bistro quickly fills up, but the back patio is a big draw during the day (gannaway opens shop at 3pm). Snag a seat at one of the faded pink picnic tables or on mismatched patio furniture to enjoy the food and drink, and then try your luck tossing rocks from the bank into the metal Miller Lite bucket that hangs over the creek. it’s also common to find sunbathers lounging along the banks with their feet cooling off in the water. Creek Side Pub, 3830-C S. Lone Pine Ave., Springfield, Missouri, 417.893.8131, facebook.com/creeksidepub
mo
photogrAphy by eMiLy SuzAnne MCDonALD
photogrAphy by jeSSiCA SpenCer
What can people expect at Reeds? Hopefully it’s a comfortable, local neighborhood “haunt” that gives off the sense of being around a dinner table. Maplewood is a very self-contained community, old-school, with family-owned businesses; it reminds me of where I grew up in University City. My menu is simple, unpretentious and seasonal. Housemade breads, soups, salads, sandwiches, small plates, entrées and a couple of whole-roasted items, and then matching that with a great beverage program – not just wine, but also beer, cider, liqueurs, nonalcoholic beverages, etc. What motivated you to open your own place? I didn’t start cooking to open a restaurant; it was never something I thought possible for myself, honestly. Without the support of my friends and the customers at Taste telling me, “No, I think it’s definitely something you can and should do,” it would have just stayed as a fun dream forever. It’s definitely more than just my idea; it’s all of these people who’ve helped me and shared this vision. Can you share details about the menu? I’m excited to work with fish since a lot of people in the Midwest don’t know how available fresh fish is to us. For example, we’re doing a whole-roasted bronzino with roasted fennel, shaved raw carrots, marinated cherry tomatoes and lemon-brown butter. Our dishes all start with the vegetables and what’s seasonal – like local green beans with sweet basil dressing, pickled blueberries and almonds, or roasted summer squash lasagnette – and then the proteins follow suit – with pork sourced from Newman Farm, chicken from Double Star Farm, trout from Troutdale Farm. What can guests expect from the bar program? I don’t drink, so I knew I needed a beverage director who was as passionate about beverages as I am about food. Andrey, tell us about the bar program. The beverage program is about providing context and adding a personal, experienced touch. Our core wine list is made up of wineries that a member of the beverage staff has visited or has a personal relationship with the winemaker or importer. Our beer director, David Schroeder, is a certified cicerone who put together a small-buttargeted program with four beers on draft and a dozen by the bottle. On one tap we have Budweiser – but it’s the original Budweiser Budvar brewed in the Czech Republic that Budweiser is modeled after. We’re the only place in the history of St. Louis to pour that. Zach Althaus, previously of Sump Coffee, is specifically dedicated to coffee and nonalcoholic drinks, and he’s knowledgeable about where [coffee] beans come from, the different flavor profiles and how to emphasize those flavors in a drink. We have an ambitious offering of nonalcoholic drinks – things like nontraditional juice combinations and sodas. Reeds American Table, 7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood, Missouri Inspired Local Food Culture
AUGUST 2015
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DEsTINaTION: FayETTEVIllE, aRkaNsas
driven by byerly rv
road trip
WRITTEN By PETE DULIN
The sixth annual Fayetteville Roots Festival happening in Fayetteville, Arkansas, later this month celebrates local food and farmers such as Sweden Creek Farm, War Eagle Mill and White River Creamery. Food vendors use local farm-sourced organic produce, all-natural meats and eggs, flowers and food products to prepare and sell food at the festival. With two other food-and-drink events occurring in and around Fayetteville in August – the Tontitown Grape Festival and Frisco Festival – it’s an ideal time to visit The Natural State.
sleep
eat
Inn at the Mill The 46-room inn, housed in the refurbished historic Johnson Mill, offers eight specialty suites and an on-site restaurant, James at the Mill. The Frank Lloyd Wright suite features paneled walls and a ceiling made from cypress milled in the Arkansas Delta, as well as four pieces of original Wright designs. The inn is close to minor league Arvest Ballpark, Walton Arts Center, Fayetteville’s historic district and Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art. 3906 Johnson Mill Blvd., Springdale, Arkansas, 479.443.1800, innatthemill.com
The Dickson Street Inn Located in Fayetteville’s entertainment district, the remodeled boutique hotel is an easy walk to restaurants, shopping and nightlife in the Downtown square. The main house, a classic Victorian built in 1894, offers eight rooms. Two larger carriage-house suites are located in an adjacent building. Take in the sunset and city views on the upstairs patio deck. Indoors, antique furniture, crown molding and heartwood pine floors offer warmth and character.
Rolando’s three locations in the region speak to the popularity of its Latin Americaninspired cuisine. Regular lunch specials include fish tacos and a platter of chicken or pork enchiladas, a quesadilla with tomatillo sour cream sauce, a tamale or taquito, plus white rice and Rolando’s signature black beans. An order of Tencha’s taquitos serves corn tortillas filled with Mexican chorizo and drizzled with spicy sauce. Ecuadorian chicken soup, the Cuban platter and chicken tenderloins marinated in Cuban mojo sautéed in a lime-tequila sauce reflect the flavorful and spicy options available. 509 W. Spring St., 479.251.1650, rolandosrestaurante.com PHOTO COURTESY ROlANDO’S
PHOTO COURTESY iNN AT CARNAll HAll
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The Hive Executive chef Matthew McClure, 2014 James Beard Foundation Award semifinalist for Best Chef: South, prepares “high south” fare at The Hive. Former menus have used regional ingredients such as black walnuts, locally milled cornmeal, hickory-smoked ham and peaches. Pimento cheese tops The Hive Burger, while catfish served with grits and hazelnuts showcases McClure’s southern accent. Try the secret-spiced BMF Chicken on a Biscuit for brunch; for dinner, opt for the crispy pig tails with guajillo chile hot sauce and pecan pie for dessert. 200 NE A St., 21c Museum Hotel, Bentonville, Arkansas, 479.286.6575, thehivebentonville.com PHOTOS COURTESY THE HivE
Tusk & Trotter American Brasserie
Inn at Carnall Hall
465 N. Arkansas Ave., 479.582.0400, innatcarnallhall.com
Tontitown Grape Festival
Rolando’s Nuevo Latino Restaurante
301 W. Dickson St., 479.695.2100, dicksonstreetinn.com
Built in 1905 in the Colonial Revival style, the inn was originally an all-girls dormitory and sits on the northeast corner of the University of Arkansas campus. Dedicated preservation has restored the building to its original grandeur and charm, and modern-day amenities have also been added. The inn’s 50 guest rooms come in 13 different layouts with queen and king beds and hot tubs. Ella’s Restaurant on-site offers breakfast, lunch, dinner and brunch, and the Lambeth Lounge is a bar-meets-coffee shop.
big events
THE HIVE DINING ROOM
Tusk & Trotter’s award-winning chef-owner Rob Nelson highlights the flavors of the region in dishes such as housemade pork rinds, smoked catfish-trout chowder, High South Poutine and applewood-smoked baby back ribs. If inclined, try the peach whiskey Manhattan, vanilla-honey bourbon press or another house-infused cocktail.
Founded by Italian settlers in 1898 and located between Fayetteville and Rogers, Tontitown celebrates its Italian-American heritage Aug. 4 to 8 at the 117th annual Tontitown Grape Festival. Join in the grape stomp and the Run for the Grapes 5K, indulge in fine local wine and Italian fare, and dance to live music by country artist Chase Bryant, as well as local acts. tontitowngrapefestival.com
PHOTO COURTESY AliSHA PECkHAM
Fayetteville Roots Festival
From Aug. 27 to 30, the Roots Festival features live musical acts including Punch Brothers, Sarah Jarosz, JD McPherson, Shook Twins and St. Louis’ Pokey LaFarge among its nearly two dozen acts. Greenhouse Grille, Pure Joy Ice Cream and Ella’s Restaurant will prepare food for the festival using ingredients from more than a dozen regional farms. fayettevilleroots.com
PHOTO COURTESY JEREMY SCOTT
110 SE A St., Bentonville, Arkansas, 479.268.4494, tuskandtrotter.com
Theo’s Bar & Dining Room
Stone Mill Bread & Flour Co.
Fresh coastal cuisine meets southern comfort and hospitality at Theo’s. Hearty dishes include tempura avocado and tuna tacos, duck confit quesadilla, wild boar sausage ravioli and double-cut pork chop with bacon marmalade, bourbon reduction and Cheddar grits. Opt for a flight of red or white wine, tequila, bourbon or single malt scotch with dinner, or try a beer from local Ozark Beer Co. or Fossil Cove Brewing Co.
Visit Stone Mill for freshly baked bread and breakfast or lunch. The bakery mills stone-ground whole-wheat flour daily and bakes soft-crusted American hearth and crusty European-style breads. Inexpensive breakfast options include savory buttermilk biscuits with bacon gravy, kolache and French toast. For lunch, build your own sandwich, choosing between 10 bread choices, plus a daily special, or try the chicken salad on cranberry-pecan bread.
318 N. Campbell Ave., 479.527.0086, theosfayetteville.com
2600 N. Gregg Ave., 479.571.2295, stonemillbread.net
Frisco Festival
Frisco Festival, occurring Aug. 28 to 29 in nearby Rogers, features an annual “chili-salsa-peño” competition: Contestants have three chances to win by entering the fierce chili cook-off or salsa contest while competitive eaters can test their skills in the jalapeño-eating contest. The festival also includes live music, local food and drink, as well as arts and crafts, kids’ activities and a 5K walk and run. mainstreetrogers.com/friscofestival-aspx
After years of international travel, el,
Pastry Chef Michel Royer has decided to spend his ica retirement on the road. The wide open spaces of America called and, ever since he purchased a Tiffin Phaeton motorhome from Byerly RV, the countryside has become Michel’s backyard. As for dining in an RV? The food is delicious, always fresh, and usually prepared in the small but well ell equipped kitchen. “I like to travel the backroads, stopping at produce oduce stands, farmer’s markets and finding regional specialties,”” Michel explained. A recent trip to Kentucky resulted in a breakfast of country y ham, farm fresh eggs, Amish preserves and home baked Farmer’s Market. coffee cake – all from the Cadiz Far
Crust
Summer Tartes
-3 cups all-purpose flour - ¼ teaspoon salt - 3oz granulated sugar s of butter - 3 sticks and 2 tablespoon xing bowl Place dry ingredients in mi ces pie Cut butter into small a ball Mix until the dough forms erator for 30 minutes rig ref in ces pie 2 o Divide int in 2 9” tarte pans ce Roll ¼” thickness and pla
Tart) Tarte aux Pommes (Apple
icious apple - 2 large organic golden del - 1 table spoon butter sugar - 2 table spoons granulated Peel and slice apples Arrange on crust le with sugar Dot with butter and sprink minutes until golden brown 30 25Bake at 350 degrees for m mold, crust will be fragile Cool before removing fro
Tarte aux Citrons (Lemon
Tart)
- 6 organic lemons - 6 eggs, beaten - 10oz granulated sugar - Zest of 1 lemon Juice lemons t over medium in a 2qt sauce pan and hea Place Juice, zest and sugar il s to a boil, heat until it comes to a bo continuously until it return isk wh d an s egg ten Add bea ency should be custard consist t Remove from hea Pour into tarte crust tes until golden brown Bake at 350 for 25-30 minu m mold, crust will be fragile Cool before removing fro
Byerly RV
Hwy. 44 & 109, Exit 264 (636) 938-2000 • www.ByerlyRV.com
Inspired Local Food Culture
AUGUST 2015
23
june through september: lavender
IN SEASON
WRitten By Bethany chRiSto
Fresh and dried lavender flowers and leaves have been used in cooking for centuries to impart sweet floral and citrus notes. KC
crème brûlée
laWrenCe, Ks. “it’s only four ingredients, but in the nearly six years we’ve been around, i’ve maybe met 20 people who’ve made crème brûlée in their own home,” says Julia ireland, co-owner of Torched Goodness, a crème brûlée food truck and cart. after launching the business in arizona with her husband, eric, the couple moved to the kansas city area just over a year ago to serve crème brûlée in more than 30 flavors such as vanilla, sea salt-caramel and chocolate through their cart on mass avenue in lawrence, kansas, and their food truck at events around town. the lavender flavor is available year-round, sourced fresh from Washington creek lavender farm in lawrence. “the lavender crème brûlée definitely has a cult following,” ireland says. “if you like the flavor of thyme, you’ll probably like lavender. it’s floral, but the flavor is not overpowering.”
ColumbIa, mo. at The Wine Cellar & Bistro in columbia,
Torched Goodness, 785.766.2877, torchedgoodness.com
The Wine Cellar & Bistro, 505 Cherry St., Columbia, Missouri, 573.442.7281, winecellarbistro.com
Lavender Crème Brûlée “Be sure to get culinary lavender for making crème brûlée,” Julia Ireland says. “There’s a distinction between lavender you’d use to make a sachet and culinary lavender.” Recipe adapted fRom Julia iReland
Serves | 6 to 8 | 4 1 8 ¾
cups heavy cream Tbsp culinary lavender egg yolks cup granulated sugar, divided
| Preparation | in a saucepan over medium heat, heat cream until just simmering. add lavender and steep, never reaching a boil, for about 30 minutes to release flavor. preheat oven to 325°f. Beat yolks with ½ cup sugar. once cream is ready, strain through a fine-mesh strainer several times to remove flowers and stems. using a rubber spatula, combine cream into egg mixture off of heat, very slowly incorporating while stirring. Strain once more. transfer mixture to crème brûlée cups and bake in a water bath, filling hot water to same level as custard in cup, for 45 minutes. cool at room temperature for 30 minutes, then refrigerate. Before serving, sprinkle 2 tsp sugar on top of each and torch under broiler or using a handheld kitchen torch. Serve. 24
Como
lavenderinfused honey
feastmagazine.com
AUGUST 2015
missouri, the menu is often developed around what’s available from its farm and gardens (located just outside of columbia) and what pairs well with its featured wines. the warm, lightly breaded goat cheese-truffle appetizer, made with goatsbeard farm goat cheese, is topped with lavender-infused honey and an elderberry-balsamic reduction that’s served alongside figs and caramelized onion confit. co-owner and executive chef craig cyr simmers local honey and steeps lavender, either plucked from the garden or sourced from an organic co-op, in the honey to infuse it with fresh fragrant flavor. “it adds a nice floral quality to the dish,” he says. “the goat cheese has such a light, mild flavor, so we thought the lavenderhoney would be nice and delicate like the cheese. the balsamic and elderberry are the stronger, sweeter, concentrated flavors.” Sarah cyr, Wine cellar co-owner and sommelier, created a sparkling wine cocktail made with lavender tea and simple syrup, as well.
onlIne eXtra
Head to feastmagazine.com to find recipes for Craig and Sarah Cyr’s lavender-Champenoise cocktail and warm goat cheese truffles.
stL
lavenderinfused ricestuffed sole fillet
st. louIs. the summer menu at Element in St. louis
features contemporary comfort food made with the fresh flavors of the season. case in point: the sole fillet stuffed with jasmine-lavender rice, nectarines and preserved lemon served with naturally fermented asparagus, turmeric aïoli and squash. “flowers and fruit go together beautifully,” says executive chef Brian coltrain. “the lavender helps to bring out the sweetness and fragrance of the nectarine and to reduce the offensiveness of the fermented asparagus – which has a certain funk to it – on the palate.” coltrain says he often pairs lavender with citrus and foods that have subtle sweetness such as caramelized shallots, but also recommends ordering the sole dish with element’s Rye of the tiger cocktail, inspired by St. louis barbecue and backyard cookouts, made with rye whiskey, rosemary, lemon, hickory-smoked ice and lavender bitters. Element, 1419 Carroll St., Lafayette Square, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.241.1674, elementstl.com photogRaphy By ©iStock/nito100
CheF’s tIp “Use less lavender than you expect you need; flavors come out more as you cook. Also, many people don’t realize how involved your sense of smell is on the palate. It might not look like too much lavender on the plate, but as soon as you bring the fork to your mouth, you smell those aromatics, which can overpower other flavors.” –Brian Coltrain, executive chef, Element
one on one
mo
zach fortner
Mini Mia
co-owner, pineapple whip
WrITTEN by VAlErIA TurTurrO KlAMM
Wine Chocolate Gelato SPRINGFIELD, MO. More than 40 years ago, Dan Fortner came up with what
would become an iconic summertime tradition in Springfield, Missouri – pineapple whip, a dairy-free soft-serve made from natural juices. Fortner created the frozen treat as something to offer at the Ozark Empire Fair where he operated concession stands during the 1960s and ‘70s. When his sons joined the business, the family decided to construct Pineapple Whip trailers to serve the sweet treat in parking lots around town throughout the summer. Today, the yellow trailers can be found at three locations, complete with an iconic, hip-swiveling hula girl signaling summertime. “We’ve been around parking lots about 30 years now,” says Zach Fortner, Dan’s grandson and the third generation to run Pineapple Whip along with his mother, Diana, and uncle Chris.
Pineapple Whip, multiple locations, Springfield, Missouri, 417.207.3975, pineapplewhip.com
10 word poet & SPIN! aficionado
spinpizza.com
photography by jessica spencer
Other than the original pineapple recipe, what other flavors can be found at your three locations? We always serve a second flavor, which we rotate between our locations. Other flavors include mango-peach, strawberrykiwi, grape and orange, and just at the end of last year, we came out with Nana-Granate, which is a pomegranate-banana flavor. How has the business changed since your grandfather opened shop in the 1980s? We’re a very simple operation. We just serve during the summer. We literally just serve soft-serve, and that’s it. It’s been a slow, steady thing. We do the summertime parking-lot trailer routine with three trailers, a couple of events throughout the year and still go out to the [Ozark Empire] Fair every year. It’s kind of become a very Springfield thing. We open up around the beginning of April or the end of March if the weather is looking good. We open one location at a time and kind of stagger them. We’re up and running full operations at the beginning of May and start winding down in September. What’s it like being part of a three-generation family business? From my end, there’s no direct pressure, but I definitely apply a lot of pressure to myself. They’ve created this good, simple-operating little business, and now I’ve just got to not screw it up. I think we’re very fortunate that our family really gets along easily. Any plans for future growth? We have people asking about franchises all the time. We have a licensing agreement operating in Arkansas and North Carolina. We’ve turned over all future franchising and licensing operations to a guy in Florida who wants to grow it a little bit more both nationally and internationally. So we’ve pulled ourselves out of the national growth arena altogether; we just like our operations here. We’re satisfied.
-Sheryl K.
Open 7 days a week! happy hOur 11am – 10pm: Monday thru Friday Monday – Saturday 3pm – 6pm 9am – 9pm: Sunday reverse happy dailylunch specials hOur Starting at $6.95 Friday and Saturday served Monday thru 10pm to Midnight our Menu Friday (happy hour Only available) Made tO Order Brunch 11am – 2pm Saturday 9am – 2pm Sunday
5401 Johnson drive, Mission, ks 66205 913-403-8571, www.luckybrewgrille.com
Inspired Local Food Culture
august 2015
25
Regional RestauRant guide 1818 Chophouse
Café Ventana
210 S Buchanan St. Edwardsville, IL 618.307.9300
3919 W. Pine Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.531.7500 cafeventana.com
4 Hands Brewing Co.
Café Verona
Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard
J McArthur’s - An American Kitchen
10035 Edge Cliff Dr. Potosi, MO 573.438.4741 edg-clif.com
3500 Watson Road St. Louis, MO 314.353.9463 jmcarthurs.com
El Pico Mexican Restaurant
Jack Stack BBQ
1220 S. Eighth St. St. Louis, MO 314.436.1559 4handsbrewery.com
206 W. Lexington Ave. Independence, MO 816.833.0044 cafeveronarestaurant.com
Amigoni Urban Winery
Chaz on the Plaza at the Raphael Hotel
Evangeline’s Bistro
Cleveland-Heath
Fratelli’s Ristorante
1505 Genessee St. #100 Kansas City, MO 913.890.3289 winery.amigoni.com
Avenue Restaurant
325 Ward Pkwy Kansas City, MO 816.802.2152 raphaelkc.com
12 N. Meramec Ave. Clayton, MO 314.727.4141 avestl.com
106 N. Main St. Edwardsville, IL 618.307.4830 clevelandheath.com
Aya Sofia
Citizen Kane’s
6671 Chippewa St. St. Louis, MO 314.645.9919 ayasofiacuisine.com
Barcelona
133 W. Clinton Place Kirkwood, MO 314.965.9005 citizenkanes.com
Coastal Bistro
34 N. Central Ave. Clayton, MO 314.863.9909 barcelonawinebar.com
14 N. Central Ave. Clayton, MO 63105 314.932.7377 costalbistro.com
Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas
Corner Restaurant
Bishop’s Post
Courthouse Exchange
325 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.3434 bellavinowinebarstl.com
16125ChesterfieldPkwyW. Chesterfield, MO 636.536.9404 bishopspost.com
4059 Broadway Kansas City, MO 816.931.4401 thecornerkc.com
Café Sebastienne at Kemper Museum
4420 Warwick Blvd. Kansas City, MO 816.561.7740 26 kemperart.org feastmagazine.com A U G U S T 2 0 1 5
Multiple Locations jackstackbbq.com
facebook.com/elpicomexicanrestaurant
512 N. Euclid Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.367.3644 evangelinesstl.com
2061 Zumbehl Road St. Charles, MO 636.949.9005 fratellisristorante.com
Gallagher’s
114 W. Mill St. Waterloo, IL 618.939.9933 gallagherswaterloo.com
Joe Boccardi’s
8556 Watson Road St. Louis, MO 314.849.7976 joeboccardis.com
Kaldi’s Coffee
Multiple Locations kaldiscoffee.com
Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria
9568 Manchester Road St. Louis, MO 314.942.6555 katiespizzaandpasta.com
Grapevine Grill at Chaumette Winery
King & i
Grill at the Ritz-Carlton
Klondike Café at Montelle Vineyard
24345 State Route WW St.e Genevieve, MO 573.747.1000 chaumette.com
100 Carondelet Plaza Clayton, MO 314.863.6300 ritzcarlton.com
3157 S. Grand Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.771.1777 kingandistl.com
201Montelle Dr.atMOHwy 94 Augusta, MO 636.228.4464 montelle.com
Haveli indian Restaurant
lorenzo’s Trattoria
Hendricks BBQ
loRusso’s Cucina
Dewey’s Pizza
Multiple Locations deweyspizza.com
1200 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.8600 hendricksbbq.com
Diablito’s
ices Plain & Fancy
lucky Brewgrille
113 W. Lexington Ave. Independence, MO 816.252.0344 courthouseexchange.com
Bocci Bar
16 N. Central Ave. Clayton, MO 314.932.1040 boccibar.com
106 W. Maple Ave. Independence, MO 816.252.7426
3761 Laclede Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.644.4430 diablitoscantina.com
9720 Page Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.423.7300 havelistl.com
2256 S. 39th St. St. Louis, MO 314.601.3604 icesplainandfancy.com
1933 Edwards St. St. Louis, MO 314.773.2223 lorenzostrattoria.com
3121 Watson Road St. Louis, MO 314.647.6222 lorussos.com
5401 Johnson Dr. Mission, KS 913.403.8571 luckybrewgrille.com
Magpie Cafe
903 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.947.3883 magpiesonmain.com
Mai lee
8396 Musick Memorial Dr. Brentwood, MO 314.645.2835 maileestl.com
Mary Ann’s Tea Room
4732 Mcpherson Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.361.5303 maryannstearoom.com
Mathew’s Kitchen
5625 Hampton Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.351.1700 mathewskitchenstl.com
Merz On Main
210 S. Main St. Columbia, IL 618.281.9901 merzonmain.com
Noboleis Vineyards
100 Hemsath Road Augusta, MO 636.482.4500 noboleisvineyards.com
Oceano Bistro
44 N. Brentwood Blvd. Clayton, MO 314.721.9400 oceanobistro.com
Olympia Kebob House and Taverna
1543 McCausland Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.781.1299 olympiakebobandtaverna.com
Ophelia’s Restaurant & inn 201 N. Main St. Independence, MO 816.461.4525 opheliasind.com
Pappy’s Smokehouse
3106 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.535.4340 pappyssmokehouse.com
Square One Brewery & Distillery
Tiny’s Pub & Grill
Q39
Square Pizza
Tom + Chee
Reifschneider’s Grill & Grape
Stur Restaurant
Robust Wine Bar
Sugarfire Smoke House
Pat’s Bar & Grill
6400 Oakland Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.647.6553 patconnollytavern.com
1000 W. 39th St. Kansas City, MO 816.255.3753 q39kc.com
608 N. Main St. Columbia, IL 618.281.2020 grillandgrape.net
1727 Park Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.231.2537 squareonebrewery.com
208 W. Maple Ave. Independence, MO 816.461.2929 squarepizzasquared.com
4 Club Centre Court A Edwardsville, IL 618.307.9613 sturrestaurant.com
602 N. Main St. Columbia, IL 62236 618.281.9977
1280 Highway K O’Fallon, MO 636.294.9800 tomandchee.com
Tony’s
410 Market St. St. Louis, MO 314.231.7007
Trattoria Giuseppe
Multiple Locations sugarfiresmokehouse.com
5442 Old State Route 21 Imperial, MO 636.942.2405 trattoria-giuseppe.com
Ruth’s Chris Steak House
Summit Grill & Bar
Truffles and Butchery
Sanctuaria
Tazé Mediterranean Kitchen
Tucker’s Place
Multiple Locations robustwinebar.com
1N. Brentwood Blvd. #150 Clayton, MO 314.783.9900 ruthschris.com
4198 Manchester Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.535.9700 sanctuariastl.com
Schlafly Tap Room
4835 NE Lakewood Way Lees Summit, MO 816.795.7677 summitgrillandbar.com
626WashingtonAve. #103 St. Louis, MO 314.254.7953 tazestreetfood.com
2125 S. State Route 157 Edwardsville, IL 618.655.9595 teaspoonscafe.com
Seoul Taco
Tenacious Eats
Shrine Restaurant 442 S. Demazenod Dr. Belleville, IL 618.394.6237 snows.org
Spin! Neapolitan Pizza Multiple Locations spinpizza.com
3939 Union Road St. Louis, MO 314.845.2584 tuckersplacestl.com
Teaspoons Cafe
Multiple Locations schlafly.com
6665 Delmar Blvd. Suite A St Louis, MO 314.863.1148 seoultacostl.com
9202 Clayton Road St. Louis, MO 314.567.9100 todayattruffles.com
3117 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.605.3684 tenaciouseats.com
The Kitchen Sink
255 Union Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.454.1551 letseat.at/thekitchensink
The Vintage Restaurant at Stone Hill Winery
1110 Stone Hill Highway Hermann, MO 573.486.2221 stonehillwinery.com Inspired Local Food Culture
Zapata’s Mexican Restaurant
8 Eastport Plaza Dr. Collinsville, IL 618.343.1337 zapatasmexican.com
SPECiAlTiES:
Fiesta plate and pollo tampico
Must Try : The
jambalaya, a combination of grilled shrimp, chorizo and Spanish rice, stir-fried and mixed with a spicy red sauce topped with lettuce and pico de gallo and served with tortillas. AUGUST 2015
27
Showcasing the Culinary Talents of: Chef Roryy Banc Bancroft nccroft ft - Delaware North Sportservice a E w rd wa r Jones Dome att Ed Edward
Chefs
Signature
Auction on
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    � � � � �   ��
Chef Vu Hoang - Sub Zero Vodka Bar
Chef Ben Poremba - Elaia
Chef Dan Holtgrave - Old Warson Country Club
Chef Lou Rook III - Annie Gunn’s
Chaumette e Vi V neya neya ne yard rd ds & Wi W ne Vineyards Winery
a Chef Rich LoRusso - LoRusso’s Cucina
Clemen en entine’s en Cre eam ameryy Clementine’s Creamery
arryy Johnson - Delaw h Chef Larry Delaware North Sportservice at Busch Stadi Stadium
Ch hef ef JJenny ennyy C le eve vela la and da nd Ch hef Eric Chef Cleveland and Chef He eatth - Clevel e an ndd He eat ath h Heath Cleveland-Heath
Chef Melissa aL ee e-T he Ritz-C Lee The Ritz-Carlton St. Louis
Chef Gilbert Ch rto Es rt rto Espi pino p nosa sa - Gam mlin m Gilberto Espinosa Gamlin Whiskey House
Chef Joe Mue elll err - T he R acqu Club ub Mueller The Racquet Ladue
erican Chef Joe Everett - Scape American Bistro ’s Chef Dominic Galati - Dominic’s Chef Rex Hale - The Restaurant at the Cheshire
Chef Armando Salazar - Oceano Bistro Chef Jacques Tabarley - Boone Valley Golf Club Chef Chris Vomund - Herbie’s Vintage 72 Chef Patrick Viehmann - J. Buck’s Restaurant
Chef Kevin Willmann - Farmhaus Chef Kevin nN ashan - Si Sidn dney dn ey St Nashan Sidney Street Cafe, Restaurant The Peac cem e aker L ob bster err & Cra Peacemaker Lobster Crab Co. Chef W ililliliam am mO r ma rt mann - C arrdina William Ortmann Cardinals Na ati t on n Nation
 � Catherine Neville
C Ch eff JJohn ohn Perk rkkin rkin i s - Juni ipe per Chef Perkins Juniper
The Shrine reSTauranT Announcing our NEW
German Menu STARTERS Bratwurst Bruschetta | German Potato Pancakes ENTREES Pork Schnitzel Duet | Sauerbraten Cabbage Rolls | Wurst-Lasagna | Chicken Schnitzel DESSERTS German Chocolate Cake & Black Forest Cake Try a Hofbräu Mßnchen beerpure pleasure!
Call
for reservations
Belleville, IL
618-394-6237
SNOWS.ORG/REST
Flea Market Day at Oma’s
Saturday, August 29th / 8 am to 5pm Come Enjoy the Finest Flavors of India
Weekdays Lunch Buffet: Tuesday thru Friday 11:00 am to 2:30 pm Weekend Lunch Buffet: Saturday & Sunday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm
Outside under the tent’s Oma’s will have a great mix of items from our overstock and Oma’s “pickers� unique collections.
Dinner Buffet: Sundays & Tuesdays Only: 5:30pm to 8:30 pm
Ala Carte Menu: Tuesday thru Sunday: 5:00pm to 9:00 pm Menu Always Available Closed Monday all Day 10 minutes from Clayton Plenty of Parking
Call (314) 423— 7300 for Reservations | Or Stop By at 9720 Page Ave Overland, MO 63132
28
feastmagazine.com
august 2015
PROMOTION
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Dr. Bryan Deloney, Chesterfield, is bringing one of the newest advancements in natural health and healing to local residents. Deloney is helping patients reverse health challenges, such as excess weight, diabetes, sleep apnea, thyroid disorders fibromyalgia and autoimmune issues, using the NutriMost Resonant Frequency Technology (NRF).
Everyone Gains Weight Differently Due to Hormones
at
Chesterfield Physician DeliversA Recipe ForWeight Loss
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Wh
Inspired Local Food Culture | Midwest
ou
ed e N
t o K n ow!
Dr. Deloney offers Free Consultations Participants may purchase:
> Body Composition Analysis > NRF Body Scan $27 Value: $100
Contact NutriMost Missouri at 844-STL-MOST for more information or to schedule your free consultation with Dr. Deloney
www.nutrimostmissouri.com Simply Health | 126 Hilltown Village Center | Chesterfield MO 63017
Inspired Local Food Culture
AUGUST 2015
29
Three Sixty Rooftop Bar, St. Louis
TA K E S B A LC O N Y S E AT S TO A W H O L E N E W L E V E L .
Whether you’re looking for the hottest restaurants to raise a glass, or the coolest venues to let down your hair, the Show-Me State has your VIP ticket to a memorable night.
Enjoy the evening.
Plan your getaway at VisitMO.com 30
feastmagazine.com
AUGUST 2015
where we’re drinking
mezcal and mexican-inspired eats on p. 36 PHOTOGRAPHy by emily suzAnne mcdOnAld
trending now: nitro Coffee
on trend
Written by macy salama PhotograPhy by JUDD Demaline
Bubbly, creamy, ice-cold nitro coffee is made like traditional cold-brewed coffee, treated with nitrogen and, much like beer, chilled in kegs and served on draft. Cold-Brew Coffee Most people don’t have the ability to treat coffee with nitrogen at home, but the following recipe will yield a mighty fine cup of cold brew to cool down hot summer days. reciPe aDaPteD from Dale schotte, Park avenUe coffee
Serves | 1 | 12 7
oz coarsely ground coffee beans cups cold filtered water
| Preparation | Place coffee grounds in a pitcher, add water and stir to combine. cover with plastic wrap and let steep at room temperature for at least 12 hours or up to 1 day. line a fine-mesh strainer with a standard coffee filter and hold over a medium bowl. Working in batches, slowly pour coffee into filter until all liquid has passed through strainer. (the coffee will pass through in a slow stream; don’t force it through.) stop when you reach the solids at the bottom of the pitcher. Discard grounds and the contents of strainer. transfer strained coffee into a clean pitcher. cover and refrigerate coffee until completely chilled, at least 2 hours or up to 5 days.
mo
over ice
SPringfieLd, Mo. the folks at Brick & Mortar Coffee in springfield, missouri, have been experimenting with how they serve nitro cold-brewed coffee since opening in august 2014. owner Jonathan Putnam says the shop serves a 4-ounce version over ice to cut the rich flavor, using highly condensed cold-brewed coffee, which has three times the amount of caffeine. “our coffee has a full-bodied flavor; you can taste the coffee and our flavors right away,” Putnam says. brick & mortar also finds a way to experiment with cold brew, the base of its nitro coffee, by using a proprietary filtering technique and system. “it’s kind of our little secret of how we do it,” Putnam says. “it’s something that makes us and our coffee unique.”
Brick & Mortar Coffee, 1666 E. St. Louis St., Springfield, Missouri, 417.812.6539, brickandmortarcoffee.com
kC
beer-like
KAnSAS CitY. nathan anderson, owner of Second Best Coffee in kansas city, says the shop’s nitro coffee is attracting new customers thanks to the characteristics it shares with beer, especially foamy, rich guinness. “it’s really fun to have a product that’s very similar to beer but that’s [nonalcoholic]; it’s a great afternoon sipper,” anderson says. the shop’s nitro cold-brew, red ribbon, was named not only for the color’s association with winning second place (or second best), according to anderson, but also because “[the coffee] is very smooth, which you can correlate with the image of a ribbon.” second best is currently experimenting with new flavors for its nitro coffee, from a cold-brew with hops to a new chocolaty blend, and anderson says he hopes to have more options by the end of summer.
Second Best Coffee, 328 W. 85th St., Waldo, Kansas City, Missouri, secondbestcoffee.com
stl
creamy
St. LoUiS. the nitro coffee at Park Avenue Coffee in st.
louis is an ideal option for customers who prefer a little cream in their coffee, according to owner Dale schotte. “i think we’re going to see lot of our cold-brew customers go to nitro because a lot of those customers add cream to their cold brew, and with the nitro, they don’t necessarily have to – they’ll like it better [without cream] because it has a creamier mouthfeel,” schotte says. although Park avenue has three locations across the st. louis area, the café in lafayette square is the only one currently serving nitro coffee on tap. schotte says Park avenue is always seeking out new products and drinks for its customers, and when nitro coffee was introduced this past spring, it was just part of that progression. “you have to keep things new and fresh, and this is [just a] different way to experience coffee,” he says. Park Avenue Coffee, 1919 Park Ave., Lafayette Square, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.621.4020, parkavenuecoffee.com
One On One
stl
kevin lemp
president, 4 hands brewing co.
Written by bethany christo
ST. LOUIS. a trip to 4 Hands
Why open Container Bar? We have the brewery, we have the tasting room but we didn’t really have a lot of outdoor space. We wanted to create a sort of beer garden, especially because the tasting room gets so busy on the weekend. it’s amazing what you can buy online. We Googled “used shipping containers” and were able to have two 20-foot models delivered and positioned two days later for $1,400 per container, which we couldn’t have done cheaper ourselves for something that size. one container is the actual bar with three taps – single speed, Divided sky rye iPa and contact high – and then send help by the can, and the other provides storage and serves as a barrier between the back end of the brewery. What’s the plan for your new draft vehicles? instead of getting a draft trailer, we bought a 1966 Ford Falcon van – kind of like a Scooby-Doo van – gave it a new paint job and logo treatment, and installed six taps off the side. When we go to events now, we can roll up in the ’66 Falcon and start pouring. We’re building a fleet of three vehicles – a Volkswagen bus and an old ‘60s mail Jeep, hopefully. Tell us about the brewery’s new think tank. there’s always a lot going on at the brewery, and it’s easy to get distracted, so we wanted to separate sales and marketing from production and create an environment where everyone’s in the same room and can collaborate on ideas, programming and events to build the brand. We designed the space to be business in the front and party in the back, with all the desks and printers right when you walk in, but then there’s a bunch of beanbag chairs, a pinball machine, projector and a canned-beer vending machine in the back. i’m trying to emulate a Google environment where you’re inspired, you’re having fun but you’re still working really hard. How are you expanding 4 Hands into new distribution markets? this year we’ll produce 14,000 barrels, and next year we’ll cap out our facility with 22,000. We don’t want to overextend ourselves and not be able to serve everyone what they like. in each new market, we’re really looking for 30 best friends – 30 accounts that we can coddle. as we grow, so can that footprint. outside of Missouri, we’re not there to sell beer; we’re in markets to build our brand: low volume, seasonal drivers and allocated brands like Madagascar or cuvee ange. Divided sky is our no. 1 seller year-round in Missouri, and it’s a beautiful iPa, but there are a lot of beautiful iPas in D.c. and Philadelphia. We’d rather bring chocolate Milk stout or contact high for the spring and summer and lead with that. PhotograPhy by landon vonderschmidt
PhotograPhy by judd demaline
Brewing Co.’s typically jam-packed tasting room on the weekend probably leads to a pint at the newly redesigned stainless steel back bar. or maybe it leads to a peek at the 264 barrels aging on the brewery’s second floor, including cuvee ange, an amber saison aged in rombauer red wine barrels with raspberries and blackberries, released this month. if you head to the brewery’s back parking lot, you’ll see two 20-foot shipping containers; picnic tables flanked by pear, plum and cherry trees; and food trucks and caterers at 4 hands’ new Container Bar, which opened at the end of May. other exciting news for the almost 4-year-old brewery, under the direction of its president, Kevin Lemp, includes distribution in the Washington, D.c. and baltimore markets, the opening of a “think tank” marketing-and-sales office off cherokee street and a soon-to-launch fleet of renovated draft vehicles hitting st. Louis streets.
4 Hands Brewing Co., 1220 S. Eighth St., LaSalle Park, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.436.1559, 4handsbrewery.com
Inspired Local Food Culture
august 2015
33
the mix
the tickle There’s cause for celebration this month, as August marks Feast Magazine’s fifth anniversary. Anniversary and birthday celebrations call for toasts and plenty of drinks (and more than a few rounds). In past years I’ve commemorated the magazine’s anniversary with festive cocktails – those having celebratory histories and those containing bubbles (or both). This year, I’m celebrating with a drink that has been institutionalized in the hallowed streets of the Dogtown neighborhood in St. Louis: the Tickle. It has a more recent history of revelry, but a history nonetheless. The birthplace of the Tickle is the Arena Bar & Grill located at 5760 W. Park Ave. Michael Kehm, the former owner of the bar, is said to have created it around the time he and his wife, Lisa, opened Arena in 2001. Unfortunately, Kehm passed away in 2011. Today, there’s a photo of him in the bar area, keeping a watchful eye over the place. First, I’m going to be straight with you: The Tickle isn’t a cocktail, but more an experience or ritual with one heck of a silly name. The ritual, if you will, began due to Kehm’s love of whiskey, particularly Tullamore Dew, an Irish whiskey.
Story and recipe by Matt Seiter Photography by Jonathan Gayman
Sometimes, Kehm didn’t want a full pour, though, so he came up with the term tickle, which he described thusly: “It’s just enough to give you a little taste for when you have a little tickle in the back of your throat, and you know the only cure is whiskey, but you don’t necessarily want a full shot.” Kehm was right, and to this day, I believe that only Tullamore Dew can be used to make a Tickle. Order one at Arena, and you’ll be speaking the language. Over the past five years, I’ve celebrated many occasions at Arena with a Tickle or two. On the way home from many St. Louis Blues’ wins, I celebrated with a Tickle. The day of my cocktail book-release party, my friend Jenn Tosatto, head bartender at The Rieger in Kansas City, and I celebrated with a few Tickles before the evening’s festivities began. I made sure the boys who hosted my bachelor party took me for a Tickle. It’s special to me and others in Dogtown because they were special to Kehm – and really, Irish whiskey should be special to everyone. Whether I’m marking a certain occasion or just trying to clear my throat, I’ll always take a second to pour a Tickle, share a toast and think of Kehm and the family he built at Arena. Cheers to him, and cheers to Feast!
Matt Seiter is co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program, author of The Dive Bar of Cocktails Bars, bartender at BC’s Kitchen and a bar and restaurant consultant.
The Tickle Serves | 1 |
¾ oz Tullamore Dew Irish whiskey small shot glass
| Preparation | Reverently open a bottle of Tullamore Dew Irish whiskey. Fill shot glass with ¾ oz whiskey and take the shot. Repeat as needed. Cheers to those around you, perhaps with one of my favorite toasts-meetsbar songs often heard at Arena: “Happy are we met, happy have we been, happy may we part, and happy meet again.”
on the shelf : august picks
WINE
leS BourgeoiS vineyardS’ Brut written by Jane MCCorMiCk
provenance: rocheport, Missouri pairings: Bloomy rind cheeses • Spicy Asian fare
Missouri-grown varietals are well-suited to sparkling wines, and dry, semisweet and rosé styles highlight the fruit-forward nature of our local grapes. Les Bourgeois Vineyards in rocheport, Missouri, makes a particularly enjoyable dry (indicated by the “brut” designation) sparkler from primarily Vidal blanc grapes using traditional methods. Méthode traditionnelle, or méthode Champenoise, produces effervescence through secondary fermentation in the bottle, rather than in bulk tanks or simply through injecting carbon dioxide into still wine. it may take more time and effort to make les bourgeois’ brut using this method, but the result is worth it, producing a crisp finish, tight bubbles and a fruity aroma.
O P E N D A I LY 1 2 P M T O 6 P M
Les Bourgeois Vineyards, 800.690.1830, missouriwine.com
BEER
root SellerS’ row Hard root Beer written by branDon niCkelSon
style: Spiced ale (6.7% abV) pairings: Vanilla ice cream
rarely in the history of humankind has an idea so simple and yet so brilliant presented itself in such a lovely package, yet here it is: root beer that is also beer. Root Sellers, a brewery based in weston, Missouri, and Columbia, has been producing Pedal Hard ginger beer since launching in early 2014, and more recently, it introduced row Hard root beer, which looks, smells and tastes just like root beer and is made with natural ingredients. and it gets sweeter: both products are packaged in 16-ounce cans, which make them appropriate float trip and camping fuel.
“The hardware store for cooks” A Kansas City Original since 1968
115 Westport Road | Kansas City, MO 64111 816-531-5588 | prydeskitchen.com
Innovative American regional specialties with a twist, using best ingredients available from our favorite local farms
Root Sellers, rootsellersinc.com Brothers Brandon and Ryan Nickelson are available to help with beer picks and pairing recommendations at their store, Craft Beer Cellar, the only all-craft beer shop in the St. Louis area. Craft Beer Cellar is located at 8113 Maryland Ave. in Clayton, Missouri. To learn more, call 314.222.2444 or visit craftbeercellar.com/clayton.
SPIRIT
Stilljoy SpiritS’ MovadoS written by Matt Sorrell provenance: St. louis (35% abV) try it: in a Jewel box, a combination of muddled fresh apple
slices, lemon and rosemary with Movados served over ice.
For something different to sip this summer, give Movados, from StillJoy Spirits in St. louis, a try. the rarefied spirit is made from a mash of fresh local apples, sugarcane and steelcut oats that’s then distilled in a custom copper Vendrome still. the spirit is finished with lemon, rosemary and a variety of spices and aged for eight months to a year before being bottled. along with its original flavor, Movados is available in ginger, Cinnfull (cinnamon), Vienna roast and Vanilla Sky flavors, each infused with all-natural ingredients. the line has taken home an armload of awards, including a silver medal at the 2015 american Distilling institute craft spirits competition. StillJoy Spirits, stilljoyspirits.com When he’s not writing, Matt Sorrell can be found slinging drinks at Planter’s House in St. Louis’ Lafayette Square or bartending at events around town with his wife, Beth, for their company, Cocktails Are Go.
NOW OPEN: TUESDAY- SATURDAY at 5:00p
3500 Watson Rd | St Louis | 314.353.9463 | jmcarthurs.com Inspired Local Food Culture
august 2015
35
where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, breweries, wineries and coffee shops across the region.
lindberg’s
stl Written by ettie berneking
SPRINGFIELD, MO. if it’s good music and good
drinks you’re after, head to Lindberg’s in springfield, missouri. every thursday, Friday and saturday night, the c-street bar doubles as a rocking music venue where everything from bluegrass and country to gypsy folk takes the stage. the bar is one of the oldest (if not the oldest) in springfield, dating back to the 1880s. For all the juicy details about the bar’s history, like the boxing legend who used to be a regular or the brothel (and its colorful owner) that used to operate upstairs from the bar, just ask co-owner eric Weiler. Weiler has done his research, and as a result, the bar still boasts that old-timey charm that made it a popular watering hole for decades. the original paintedtin ceiling is still there, as is the stunning wooden bar with its mirrored back, and smoothed-down pillars still shine in the bar’s ruddy light. an ancient piano, nearly as old as the bar, sulks near the front window.
in the past year, Weiler and co-owner ryan dock have introduced a new cocktail menu, including classics like the mai tai and the spicy michelada spiked with beer. the bar’s newest drink, the bell Wilson, is made with hendrick’s gin, muddled cucumber, lime juice, simple syrup and rose water garnished with sliced cucumber and served in a chilled coupe glass. a bit more history: the cocktail gets its name from the infamous brothel owner. as for beer, 14 out of the 15 taps are local or regional, so regulars can take their pick of brews from mother’s brewing co., White river brewing co., leaky roof meadery, piney river brewing co. and more. lindberg’s is also planning to introduce food service later this summer, including griddle burgers, housemade fries with beer-based ketchup and other fun bar fare. Lindberg’s, 318 W. Commercial St., Springfield, Missouri, 417.868.8900, lindbergsbar.com
mo
público
photography by jessica spencer
UNIVERSITY CITY, MO. One of the most anticipated restaurant openings of 2015 in St. Louis was Mike Randolph’s Latin American-inspired Público in the Delmar Loop. The bar’s friendly and knowledgeable staff serves well-crafted, balanced cocktails and an interesting wine list. Start off with a frozen Paloma made with blanco tequila and frozen housemade grapefruit soda; it’s sort of like a light and refreshing boozy slushy. From there, opt for something slightly more brooding like the Obstacle 2, a Manhattan-style cocktail made with Venezuelan rum, Creole shrub, Carpano Antica sweet vermouth and bitters. Finally, finish your evening with one of the eight small-batch mezcals available. Wines at Público all hail from Spain or Argentina (don’t pass up the La Cartuja, a killer Grenache blend from Priorat county in Catalonia, Spain). There are also several locally produced beers on its four rotating taps. Whatever you’re sipping, make sure to pair it with food – almost all of which is prepared over a roaring wood fire.
feastmagazine.com
Público, 6679 Delmar Blvd., Delmar Loop, University City, Missouri, 314.833.5780, facebook.com/publicostl AUGUST 2015
photography by emily suzanne mcdonald
36
WRiTTen by KyLe HARSHA
Gift Cards Available!
Try our 18oz.
Prime Ribeye
a little love in every crust
photography by alistair tutton
Stop by the shop, order online or visit our food truck to enjoy our handmade pies! 2719 Sutton Blvd Maplewood, MO 63143 (314) 704-4416 pieohmystl.com
enhanced by a delicious Mushroom Burgundy sauce, creamy garlic mashed potatoes and Rose Bud Salad. Conveniently located in Kirkwood Dinner Hours: Tues.-Sun. 5 p.m. 133 West Clinton Place St. Louis, MO 63122 314-965-9005
www.citizenkanes.com
kc
thou mayest coffee roasters
Written by Jenny vergara
kansas city. Delightfully quirky and intimately thoughtful, Thou Mayest Coffee Roasters combines two excellent things: coffee service and cocktails. the vision for thou Mayest came from friends and co-founders bo nelson and bill holzhueter, who first began roasting green coffee beans for fun. “like all good things, it started in the garage, as a hobby,” nelson says. they first launched their coffee-roasting company wholesale and online, and eventually decided to open shop in Kansas City’s Crossroads arts District. John anderson of local utilitarian Workshop created the rustic campsiteinspired interior of thou Mayest. he deftly adds his touch while leaving most of the original elements of the 104-year-old space to shine on their own. “We raided my grandpa’s fishing closet,” nelson says. “We let the space tell us what it wanted to be. it was an incredibly collaborative and interactive design process, form all parties.”
beer, cocktail and coffee menus rotate with the seasons; the blackberry Mojito, a recent summer cocktail, combines rum, fresh blackberry juice, fresh lime juice, simple syrup, mint and club soda. thou Mayest roasts coffee beans each day and sells them by the pound for you to enjoy at home. you can grab a pastry or baked good to complement your coffee, with each made fresh locally by heirloom bakery & hearth or the upper Crust. Finally, the shop also carries a nice selection of cigars for you to sit out on their patio or sky deck and enjoy. Thou Mayest Coffee Roasters, 419 E. 18th St., Crossroads Arts District, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.417.7333, thoumayest.com
A single mosAIc hopped ip ipa. now available Year Round! Inspired Local Food Culture
august 2015
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drink destination: manhattan, kansas
tallgrass tap house wrITTen By PeTe duLIn
tallgrass tap House, 320 Poyntz Ave., Downtown, Manhattan, Kansas, 785.320.2933, tallgrasstaphouse.com
one on one
PhoTogrAPhy courTesy eLLen schoeTTger
manhattan, ks. Tallgrass Brewing co. recently launched its new tallgrass tap House in manhattan, Kansas, to further foster local craft-beer culture. Brewery founder and chief executive officer Jeff gill envisions the 325-seat brewpub as a craft-beer destination, running 20 taps each in the main dining area and rooftop patio, plus 24 in The dirty Firkin, a quieter area for true beer geeks. dining options include poutine with rosemarydemi-glace gravy and white cheddar cheese curds, as well as midwest paella with Arborio rice cooked with smoked tomato saffron, fresh asparagus, prosciutto, shiitake mushrooms and onions topped with a blackened strip loin. The brewery’s Buffalo sweat oatmeal cream stout barbecue sauce tops the best-selling pork, lamb and veal meatloaf sandwich, or you can have the stout poured over vanilla bean ice cream in a float. Brewmaster Brandon gunn plans to develop rotating beers to complement the options on tap.
three must-try brews at tallgrass tap house | 1 | the konza has a well-balanced flavor with a slight bitterness and dry finish. Light-bodied and light copper-colored, the “extra” pale ale clocks in at 5 percent ABV.
| 2 | tomahawk, a double IPA, is robust
| 3 | farmhand starts with a soft malt
and intensely hoppy, with 8.5 percent ABV. The aroma and flavors are prominently and complexly hop-filled, with a reddishcopper coloring and medium body.
character that supports tart fruit flavors. At 5 percent ABV, this mediumbodied saison has a slightly peppery finish and an effervescent, goldenorange color.
Kc
luke thompson matt baysinger &
LAWRENCE, KS. luke thompson and Matt baysinger opened Mass Street Soda in 2014 to share their love of craft soda and to establish a destination for other fans. With 1,300 flavors sold in the store, which will ramp up to 1,500 by year’s end, Mass Street Soda is gaining plenty of buzz in the Kansas City area.
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around the country. they use higher-quality ingredients, including cane sugar instead of high-fructose corn syrup. they usually bottle in glass bottles, which improves the quality and extends shelf life. Some bottlers have made soda since the late 1800s. –L.T. What are your best-selling sodas? it depends on the day. there’s a Soviet-themed joke soda called leninade that people love because it has funny quips on the bottle and cap. butter beer (butterscotch-cream soda) looks like it is from Harry Potter. Ginger beer is trendy now. We go through a ton of it. Of course, root beer is our overall best seller. –L.T. As owners and managers, do you have an abundance of soda knowledge? We have tasted nearly every soda in the store. We research soda makers so we can let people know the history behind each brand. A few months ago, we took a soda field trip, visited a few bottlers and saw their machines from the ’30s and ’40s still kicking out soda. it helps connect the customer to his or her soda choice when we can talk about the brand’s owner[s] and how the
Written by Pete Dulin
soda is made. –L.T. Do you envision opening other locations? We opened KC Soda Co. at legends Outlets Kansas City, Kansas, in July. it will have the same retail offerings as Mass Street with less of a hangout vibe. We have a lot of dreams of expanding further, but for us it’s all about smart growth and not expanding just to get bigger. We are also in the process of starting our own nationwide soda line. it will be under the name of the Kansas City store, KC Soda Co., with a root beer and cream soda flavor, plus others, to start. We’ve got a lot going on right now, but we’ve been working on flavor formulation. We are going to do a Kickstarter to help us get the project off the ground. it’s a crazy venture, but we’re super excited for Kansas City to have its own homegrown soda by the end of 2015. –M.B. Mass Street Soda, 1103 Massachusetts St., Lawrence, Kansas, 785.409.1767, massstreetsoda.com; KC Soda Co., 1843 Village W. Parkway C-127, Kansas City, Kansas, 913.624.9767, kcsoda.com
PhoTogrAPhy By LAndon VonderschmIdT
What inspired you to team up and open a soda shop? We both grew up loving craft soda. Matt actually created a cream soda-review website where soda makers would ship him cream soda to rate and review. –Luke Thompson luke grew up in louisburg, Kansas, and constantly drank lost trail Soda. We had the crazy idea to turn it into a business about six years ago. it took a few years of raising capital and research to bring it to reality. –Matt Baysinger What feastmagazine.com JULY 2015 defines a craft or artisan-made soda? Craft soda makers have been popping up
co-owners, mass street soda and kc soda co.
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get this gadget
cole & mason’s derwent gourmet salt and pepper mill set written by Laura Laiben, “the Main Dish,” the CuLinary Center of Kansas City, KCCuLinary.CoM
for a quality set of salt and pepper grinders, look no further than Cole & Mason. the grinders are elegantly designed with a sleek mix of stainless steel and acrylic, and the mechanisms in each (made of carbon steel in the pepper grinder and ceramic in the salt grinder) are guaranteed for life. you can even choose your grinding-texture preference depending on taste. For more details or to purchase the grinder set, visit coleandmason.com. PhotograPhy Courtesy CoLe & Mason
one on one
mo
aron fischer
owner, facture goods
Written by bethany Christo
PhotograPhy Courtesy aron fisCher
BOONVILLE, MO. idle hands have never been an issue for aron Fischer. owner
of 1-year-old Facture Goods, a small-batch utensil and provisions business, he rarely feels the threat of stagnation as he engineers everything from coffee scoops to cake stands to pitcher spoons and berry bowls from his workshop in boonville, Missouri, a riverside town 30 minutes from Columbia. Fischer has a bachelor of Fine arts in Drawing from the University of Missouri-st. Louis and Master of Fine arts in sculpture from the University of Missouri in Columbia. Coming from a family of tinkerers and woodworkers, Fischer whittles his wood, metal, clay and ceramic goods by hand with his signature “rustic modern” aesthetic, available in 15 retail stores across the U.s. including Winslow’s home in st. Louis, shop Future in Kansas City and the Upper Crust in overland Park, Kansas, as well as for purchase online. What are some of your most popular products? i have a core line of items that are always on my website and offered to stockists, such as pitcher spoons, coffee scoops and cocktail muddlers, but then there are items where i’m being more creative and expanding my stretch such as herb strippers or itty-bitty brass-and-walnut salt spoons that are only available online. How many of each item do you make? i have about 50 different styles of things available across my outlets. i try to come out with at least one new item a month. For new products, i’ll make about five of that item. Usually the first one is playing
“i’m aware that my lower price points lead people to not covet the item and actually use it – which is what it’s designed for.”
and figuring out what this item is going to be. by the second one i’m trying to fix what i did wrong on the first, and so forth, that by the fifth iteration, i can see “me” in the piece instead of just being an object in this hypothetical space. How do you hope customers interact with your products? it’s really about the functionality more than the form. i’m aware that my lower price points lead people to not covet the item and actually use it – which is what it’s designed for. What’s the appeal of working with your hands? the great thing about working with wood is that it takes whatever you give it. because it’s such a hard material, if you carve away into it, your intention is there. there was a magical moment growing up when i watched my dad in his shop cut down a square piece of wood and turn it on a lathe to make it round. as an 11-year-old kid, it was a cool experience to learn that this hard material in your hands can be easily manipulated. Where do you source materials from? i have a great hardwood dealer out of Jefferson City called Cardwell hardwood. My dad grew up outside st. Louis on a farm with a huge family, and one of his brothers-in-law was milling down a lot of black walnut trees to redo his floor. For years, even when i was a kid, my parents had this enormous stack of lumber in their barn from that project, which i’ve been able to go and take wood from to use for Facture Goods. it’s one of my biggest sources for Missouri black walnut. the connection to my childhood makes the finished product even more special to me. Facture Goods, Boonville, Missouri, facturegoods.com
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ArtIsAn prOdUCt como
como gopo
written by bethany Christo
COLUMBIA, MO. Husband-and-wife team Nicholas and Brooke Bartlett make batches of gourmet popcorn, or “gopo” for short, by hand for their company, Como Gopo, based in Columbia, Missouri. The rotating flavors, available for purchase online or at various events and retailers in Columbia, frequently incorporate local ingredients: The queso gopo uses Columbia-based Boone Olive Oil Co.’s smoked chile pepper-infused Harissa olive oil plus a spice mix from local Lilly’s Cantina, and hellfire caramel uses Shotgun Pete’s habanero barbecue sauce. Infused flavors like the Logboat Mamooted Chocolate flavor, which blends the Columbia brewery’s Mamoot English mild ale with chocolate and sugar, and the Infused Chocolate Java, which combines chocolate from The Candy Factory, ground coffee beans from Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. and Schlafly Beer’s Coffee Stout, can be purchased at Craft Beer Cellar in Columbia.
Como Gopo, 573.767.0083, thegopo.com PhotograPhy by jaCklyn meyer
CULInAry LIBrAry
The ArT of MAking gelATo by morgan morano, racepointpub.com written by bethany Christo
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harold import co.’s world’s greatest flippin’ good burger turner written by laura laiben, “the main dish,” the Culinary Center of kansas City, kCCulinary.Com
burger flipping just became a sport with this expertly crafted heavy-duty spatula. made with stainless steel and a nonslip, heat-resistant handle, the spatula is completely dishwasher safe. it’s easy to clutter kitchen drawers with numerous spatulas, but this one is definitely worth adding to your collection – it’s the real deal for burger flipping. For more details or to purchase the burger turner, visit hickitchen.com.
PhotograPhy Courtesy harold imPort Co.
a scoop of dense, creamy gelato at an authentic italian gelateria is an occasional necessity, especially on a hot summer day. each of the 50 gelato and sorbet recipes in The Art of Making Gelato were tested by author morgan morano orano (which sounds like a truly tough job), and many have been served in her lauded new hampshire ampshire scoop shop, morano gelato. in the cookbook, morano orano outlines the specifications of making true artisanal gelato, as well as recommendations for gelato and ice cream machines, plus a step-by-step guide with accompanying photos of how to recreate treats at home. recipes ecipes range from the basics, such as sweet milk and italian espresso, to italian-inspired flavors like olive oil, ricottapear or tiramisu, to the more creative, including avocado and ciambella (donut). recipes are easy to follow, but even if you mess up, your mistakes are sure to be tasty.
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I WIsh I KneW...
kc
meat alternatives for summer grilling
eggplant Grilling eggplant intensifies the
vegetable’s flavors and adds a hint of smokiness, making it the ideal addition to a vegetable skewer destined for the grill. Sear eggplant for about five minutes on each side until soft and browned. Add a touch of olive oil, sea salt and freshly ground pepper after grilling and serve on the skewer or tossed into a warm summer salad.
endive Hearty greens and lettuce such as endive and romaine take on a crispy and tender profile after a few minutes on the grill. Simply brush greens with olive oil and grill for a smoky and charred flavor.
PHOtOgraPHy by tereSa FLOyd
tortilla pizza For a quick and easy alternative to pizza dough, build your next pizza with a grilled tortilla base. The tortilla will puff up and become thicker after a few minutes on the grill, resulting in a light and smoky flavor without any hassle. From there, smear on some sauce, add your favorite toppings and watch the magic unfold. cantaloupe Cantaloupe is often praised for its sweetness, but grilling the fruit gives
it an earthier flavor. It only takes a minute or so to grill most melons, but they’re also easy to char, so keep a close eye on the grill.
figs Grilling figs softens them and brings out their sweetness, creating a rich, jam-like flavor. The figs pair well with goat cheese, and can even be stuffed with cheese while on the grill. The smoky-sweet flavor of grilled figs makes them ideal as an appetizer or dessert.
heirloom bakery & hearth written by Jenny Vergara
KANSAS CITY. Scott and Kate Meinke are
definitely morning people. the couple are both bakers and now co-owners of newly opened Heirloom Bakery & Hearth in Kansas City’s brookside neighborhood. they arrive at the bakery around 3am each day to prepare and bake their delicious breads, cookies, biscuits, crackers, pies and famous Pop-tarts-inspired treats for the busy day ahead. Since opening the brick-and-mortar bakery and café in early May, the Meinkes have been very busy. Lines form around mid-morning for their breakfast and lunch menu, while a barista moves with lightning speed to prepare coffee made from locally roasted beans from thou Mayest Coffee roasters and Second best Coffee. as with all good bakeries, for the best selection, you should plan to get there early. the Meinkes’ cozy shop, designed by locally owned Utilitarian workshop, welcomes you with warm, light-colored wood and whimsical wallpaper, and darling
succulents dot the space. it has quickly become a neighborhood gathering spot, and with the aromas of fresh bread and hot coffee lingering in the air, it’s not hard to see why people gravitate here. while you wait to place your order, shop the shelves behind you, which are stocked with baked goods and gifts. Pick up a bag of coffee or a couple bags of the bakery’s cheese crackers or housemade granola. For breakfast, try the build-your-ownbiscuit sandwich with your choice of three fillings (including scrambled eggs, bacon, cheese, tomatoes, pesto and greens) on a delicious Cheddar-herb biscuit. For lunch, enjoy the bakery’s chicken salad sandwich served on, what else, freshly baked bread with roasted chicken, chopped dill, celery and bell peppers with fresh greek yogurt. Leave with a sweet treat such as a salted oatmeal or Key lime cookie. Heirloom Bakery & Hearth, 401 E. 63rd St., Brookside, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.492.7259, heirloomkc.com
peaches Delicate fruits like peaches become extremely juicy and sweet when grilled, and pair beautifully with savory components. As with other vegetables and fruits, it only takes a few minutes to perfectly singe peaches. To further enhance the fruit’s natural sweetness, add an oil or cinnamon glaze before grilling. jackfruit Jackfruit’s hearty texture and mellow flavor makes it a popular meat replacement base from which to build flavor on. Try shredding and seasoning the fruit to make a meat-free spin on pulled pork, chicken or pastrami for plant-based Rueben sandwiches. cheese Blocks of cheese may not seem a fit for the grill, but certain varieties can stand
up to a flame. Provolone and halloumi cheeses are especially well known for taking on chewy and crispy textures when popped onto the grill.
bread Toss Italian bread on the grill and watch it take on a toasty brown color and
develop a smoky flavor. This is a great option for making garlic bread at home, or grilled Italian bread can be chopped into croutons for summery panzanella salad.
pound cake Next time you’re craving dessert, try glazing some pre-baked cake with butter and warming it up on the grill. By doing so, the butter helps the cake to caramelize, and you’re just slightly melting the inside of the cake. The end result is a softer cake with a light charred flavor perfect for pairing with a heap of summer berries or fresh whipped cream. 9811 S. 40 Dr., St. Louis, MO 63124 310 Ward Parkway, Kansas City, MO 64112 St. Louis: 314-587-2433 KC: 816-627-0100 Check out our upcoming public cooking classes at lecole.edu
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ShOp here
stl
PhOTOgRAPhy By ChERyL WALLER
jeni’s splendid ice creams ST. LOUIS. There’s no shortage of places for St. Louisans to sate their sweet tooth, as a handful of ice cream shops have opened across the city in recent months. In the Central West End, Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams brings a creamy and dense buttercream option to the scene with the opening of its first Missouri location in June.
Jeni’s slow-to-melt buttercream ice cream is made with all-natural ingredients such as pasture-raised dairy and doesn’t include flavorings, dyes or off-the-shelf mixes, and is served in cups, sugar cones or fresh waffle cones, baked daily. “Our process is to start with the flavor and texture we want to achieve and work backward to build the
ArTISAN prODUcT
recipe around that,” Britton Bauer says. “My ideal ice cream universe is where each ice cream we have has a slightly different texture, body and flavor.” Flavors at the shop, which is headquartered in Columbus, Ohio, also include its best-selling salty caramel, seasonal sun-popped corn and brown butter-almond brittle. “Salty caramel is the flavor that really put us on the map,” says founder and chief creative officer Jeni Britton Bauer. “We melt the sugar over an open flame – it’s really hard to do. There are only like three people in the company who can do it.” Besides seasonal and rotating scoops, the 2,000-square-foot shop serves a handful of frozen yogurt flavors (made
WRITTEn By BEThAny ChRISTO
with biodynamic yogurt, fresh fruit and cream in flavors such as black currant and passion fruit), sorbet, sundaes (like The Charleston with sweet cream ice cream, salted-caramel sauce, blackstrap molasses and Virginia peanuts) and floats – try the Reverse Root Beer Float with root beer ice cream and Boylan Bottling Co. cream soda, which will soon roll out at the St. Louis shop. The gooey butter cake ice cream flavor was one of the first Britton Bauer made when she got started in 2002 – she grew up eating it in her hometown of Peoria, Illinois (plus, her husband is from St. Louis). Jeni’s has also worked with Springfield, Missouri-based bean-
to-bar Askinosie Chocolate in the past, using its cocoa powder for an Askinosie Dark Milk Chocolate ice cream flavor and to make a toasted-hazelnut brittle topping for a sundae that will show up in the shop later this year. There are also Askinosie bars available for purchase, including the malted milky dark chocolate CollaBARation bar made with Jeni’s. “The first time I had Askinosie Chocolate, it stopped me in my tracks,” she says. “Since then, the bean-to-bar chocolate revolution has happened, and still nothing compares, in my mind, to what Askinosie is doing.” Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams, 389 N. Euclid Ave., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.367.1700, jenis.com
kc
sweet kiss brigadeiro WRITTEn By JEnny VERgARA
OVerLAND pArK, KS. Sweet Kiss Brigadeiro owner Jessica Antunes grew
Sweet Kiss Brigadeiro, 913.424.2186, sweetkissbrigadeiro.com
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PhOTOgRAPhy By LAuRA nOLL
up making and enjoying brigadeiro, addictive bite-sized Brazilian chocolate candies, but she had no idea how quickly Kansas City would also embrace her favorite childhood treat. Antunes’ from-scratch chocolate candies come in a variety of flavors, including lemon, pistachio and coconut, and she can make small gift boxes or large party trays to suit any need. Email Antunes at contact@sweetkissbrigadeiro.com to ask for pricing lists, current flavors and to place your order.
a
ned and Operated Since y Ow 19 7 l i m
1
F
DiGregorio’s Italian Market “On The Hill” Saint Louis, Missouri
Full Line of Italian Foods • Italian Novelties Imported Cheeses • Choice Meats • Specialty Gift Baskets Homemade Italian Sausages • Gift Cards Imported Wines Monday-Saturday 8am-5:30pm
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5200 Daggett (at Marconi) • St. Louis, MO 63110 314-776-1062 • Shop online at www.digregoriofoods.com
The St. Louis World’s Fare Heritage Festival is an annual event whose mission is to bring together people of the region, showcasing the finest elements of art, music, business, and food while we rediscover the rich heritage of St. Louis.
FESTIVAL LINE UP OF EVENTS
History Tours @ the History Museum • Food Trucks @ the Fare Live Music & DJ© s • Beer Garden • Backyard Games Competitions Family Fun & Games on Kid© s Island • Community Yoga Breakdance Competitions • Live Art & Community Graffiti Wall World Business Expo highlighting STL businesses Youth Performances on Main Stage • Skate Ramp Music Mash-ups on the Main Stage with The Schwag & St. Boogie Brass Band • And much more! www.StlWorldsFare.com | @stlworldsfare | FB-stlworldsfare | #stlwf
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Kitchen
kitch路en / pronunciation [kich-uh n] -noun / more than a room or place equipped for preparing and cooking food /a culinary center
Life happens here!
design | cabinetry | lifestyle 215 W. Pershing Rd. | Kansas City | Missouri | 64108 | 816 363-5300 | www.portfolio-home.com
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YOUR CHOICE “Dine in & channel your “Dine out inner culinary & let us genius at do it all” home”
R e stau R a n t
ONE DESTINATION Truffles & Butchery
9202 Clayton Road Saint Louis, MO 63124 E: info@todayattruffles.com • T: 314.567.9100 & 7258 @Trufflesstl @Butcherystl www.todayattruffles.com
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seed to table
dive into roasted heirloom tomato sauce on p. 54 photography by jennifer silverberg
seed to table
heirloom TomaToes Three Ways
story and recipe by crystal stevens photography by Jennifer silverberg
nothing says summer like slices of juicy, sun-kissed heirloom tomatoes. biting into a ripe tomato on a hot august day stirs childhood memories of eating fresh tomatoes, sprinkled with a pinch of garlic salt, in my best friend’s backyard. her father was the king of tomatoes; he grew several varieties of heirlooms and had mastered growing them. each bite exploded with natural sweetness and tang. heirloom tomato varieties are preserved generation after generation through small-scale agricultural practices. they have not been genetically altered except by conscious selection and generally have maintained their distinct characteristics through open pollination. through the years, small family farmers have preserved heirloom varieties by saving the seeds of their best crops each season – and their flavor is well worth the extra effort. our favorite varieties of heirloom tomatoes to grow on the farm are green Zebra, cherokee purple, paul robeson, hillbilly, striped german and orange blossom. We purchase most of our tomato seeds from Mansfield, Missouri-based baker creek heirloom seed co.
tomato season begins in the Midwest in mid-July and usually lasts until the first frost hits in mid-october. innovative growing techniques such as high tunnels and hot houses, as well as hydroponic and aquaponic operations allow tomatoes to grow year-round, but in my experience, tomatoes are at their peak flavor when they are field-grown and vine-ripened. plants require weekly maintenance to ensure a good harvest. at our farm, seeds are planted in seed trays around valentine’s day. compost and fish emulsion are applied to the seedlings a few weeks after they sprout. they are then transplanted into the field into single rows with compost, mulch and straw used to blanket the base of each plant. harvesting is a challenge. it’s best for the health of the tomato plant to harvest after dew has lifted. tomatoes are carefully placed in trays, as they bruise easily. generally, heirloom tomatoes are best eaten within a few days of harvest. We make use of the blemished fruit, too, by canning and freezing them. My favorite way to preserve heirlooms is in a sweetand-savory roasted tomato marinara.
Crystal Stevens is a farmer at La Vista CSA Farm on the bluffs of the Mississippi River in Godfrey, Illinois, where she farms with her husband, Eric. They have two children. Crystal is an advocate of integrating creativity into sustainability through writing, art, photojournalism and seed-to-table cooking. Find more of her work at growingcreatinginspiring.blogspot.com, which she created to launch her forthcoming book, grow create inspire.
Roasted Tomato Sauce serves | 6 | 8 4 4
1 1 6 2 6 ¼
heirloom tomatoes, destemmed, cored and quartered Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, divided Tbsp fresh oregano, divided sea salt and freshly ground black pepper red bell pepper, thinly sliced onion, thinly sliced cloves garlic, minced Tbsp fresh thyme dates, minced cup red wine
| Preparation | preheat oven to 400ºf. in a large bowl, combine tomatoes, 1 tbsp oil, 1 tbsp oregano and salt and pepper. transfer to a lipped baking sheet and roast in oven for 20 minutes. in a large saucepan over medium heat, sauté bell pepper and onion for 3 minutes. add garlic, thyme, remaining oregano, salt and pepper and stir. chop roasted tomatoes and add to pan, plus dates, wine and remaining oil. simmer on low for 1 hour. serve with your favorite pasta or use as pizza sauce.
Tomato-Peach Salsa serves | 6 | 6 1 1 4 1 1 1 1 1 1
heirloom tomatoes, diced peach, peeled and diced onion, minced cloves garlic, minced cup minced red bell pepper bunch cilantro, minced jalapeño, minced juice of 1 lime tsp sea salt tsp freshly ground black pepper tsp honey
| Preparation | in a large serving bowl, add all ingredients and stir thoroughly to combine. serve with tortilla chips.
Layered Tomatoes serves | 8 | 8 24 1 2 12 2
medium heirloom tomatoes, thinly sliced leaves fresh basil, julienned package fresh mozzarella golden zucchini, julienned leaves purple basil, julienned cucumbers, thinly sliced balsamic glaze (to serve)
| Preparation | divide each ingredient, minus the balsamic glaze into 8 equal parts. carefully layer vegetables and herbs in a bowl, beginning with tomatoes on bottom, followed by basil, mozzarella, zucchini, purple basil and cucumber. continue for 8 layers until finished. drizzle with balsamic glaze to taste and serve.
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AUGUST 2015
55
mystery shopper
Meet: Nopales
SToRy And RECIPE By SHAnnon WEBER PHoToGRAPHy By JEnnIFER SIlvERBERG
Get past the prickles, and you’re in for a treat.
prepare as a side dish to accompany beef, chicken or fish.
What Is It?
The key to enjoying nopales is careful preparation: Although most of the spines are removed before hitting grocery store shelves, some will remain. Handle with caution; grab a pair of gloves if needed, and use a vegetable peeler to strip away the sides of the pads first, which are where the spines are most prominent and where your hands are likely to touch them. Work inward and strip off bumps and spines, preserving as much skin as you can. Finish with a good rinse, and you’re ready to go.
Nopales – also called cactus pads or paddles – are the leaves of the opuntia, the very same plant that produces prickly pears (visit feastmagazine.com to learn more about those in the September 2014 Mystery Shopper column). An edible obstacle course of slime and spines, the pads don’t make it easy, but get past their protective gear, and you’ll find a crunchy-crisp texture with a flavor reminiscent of green beans, snap peas and asparagus. What Do I Do WIth It?
Raw nopales can be folded into salads, but be forewarned: The pads have a gelatinous, sticky interior that can make them off-putting to many. Cook them long enough, and their inner slime releases and cooks away, leaving behind a perfect (and popular) vegetarian taco filling. Add them to egg dishes or
I suggest serving the following nopales frittata with an arugula salad; in a large bowl, combine 3 ounces arugula with 1½ ounces sliced red onion. Add a few spoonfuls of toasted cumin vinaigrette (recipe also to right) and toss to coat. Pile arugula salad in the center of the frittata, sprinkle 2 ounces crumbled queso fresco over top and drizzle with more vinaigrette. Slice frittata into wedges and serve immediately.
Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as Bon Appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and in life.
Nopales Frittata with Toasted Cumin Vinaigrette Serves | 6 | toasteD CumIn VInaIgrette
¼ 2 1 1 ½ 6 to 8 2
cup lime juice Tbsp white wine vinegar Tbsp whole cumin seeds, toasted and ground Tbsp honey cup grapeseed oil drops Tabasco sauce Tbsp chopped cilantro leaves sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
nopales FrIttata
2 1
6 3 1 1 6 ½ ½ ¼ 5
Tbsp grapeseed oil, divided lb nopales, spines and thicker stem area removed, sliced into ½-inch pieces large eggs tsp heavy cream clove garlic, minced medium Fresno chile, deseeded, very small dice oz cherry or grape tomatoes, halved lengthwise cup roughly chopped fresh cilantro leaves tsp kosher salt tsp freshly ground black pepper oz crumbled queso fresco
| Preparation – Toasted Cumin Vinaigrette| In a medium bowl, whisk lime juice, vinegar, cumin seeds and honey. Stream in oil, whisking as you go, until mixture has emulsified; stir in Tabasco and cilantro and season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside.
| Preparation – Nopales Frittata | In a heavy 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, heat 1 Tbsp oil. Add nopales; cook, stirring occasionally, until skin is lightly browned and liquid has released and cooked off, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from skillet. Preheat broiler and set rack 6 to 7 inches from top. In a medium bowl, whisk eggs and heavy cream; set aside. In the same skillet nopales were cooked in, heat remaining 1 Tbsp oil over medium-high heat. Add garlic and chile; cook until fragrant, stirring frequently, 30 seconds. Reduce heat to medium, add tomatoes and cook until warmed, 1 minute; add cooked nopales and stir to distribute evenly. Whisk cilantro into egg mixture, season with salt and pepper and pour into baking skillet with nopales. Sprinkle queso fresco over top, reduce heat to medium low and cook until eggs are almost set. Transfer skillet to broiler and broil 3 to 5 minutes; remove from oven and let rest 5 minutes. Serve with vinaigrette. 56
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aUGUst 2015
FALL ARTS YOU ARE CORDIALLY INVITED TO OUR EXCLUSIVE
PREVIEW HOSTED BY
PREVIEW THE BEST IN ST. LOUIS ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Get a sneak peek into the fall arts season with work of local, emerging artists. Guests of the Fall Arts Preview can expect live art in the form of live painting, dance performances, live music and more. Tickets include tastings from local restaurants (partnered by Feast), drink samples and a free photo booth. SPONSORED BY
WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 26 THE LUMINARY 2701 CHEROKEE ST 6:00 PM • MUST BE 21+ TO ENTER • $10 TICKETS TO PURCHASE TICKETS AND FOR MORE INFORMATION:
STLtoday.com/fallartspreview om/fallartspreview Inspired Local Food Culture
AUGUST 2015
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TASTE OF ST. LOUIS
SEPT 18 - 20 • CHESTERFIELD AMPHITHEATER
School of Cooking Stage
powered by
Culinary Stage & Chef Battle Royale The Ultimate Food Experience
Restaurant Row Concert Stage
TasteSTL.com
Kids’ Kitchen Cooking with STEAM, OF
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The Marketplace
F IE
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presented by SCOPE
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Riu Palace St. Martin, situated at the beachfront on the Caribbean island of St. Martin, is the perfect place for a dream vacation and it’s ready for you to enjoy all the amenities and services RIU offers to its guests. Rooms, restaurants, bars, pools and spa are at your complete disposal as part of the exclusive hotel facilities. The hotel restaurants will delight you with a wide variety of flavors from the rich and colorful Caribbean cuisine to the international dishes prepared daily by chefs. There are three restaurants at Riu Palace St. Martin: "Krystal" Fusion restaurant, "La Mer" French restaurant & "L'Île" Grill and steakhouse
A perfect destination for travelers who want a few days of relax, beach and sun, offering tranquility and fun alike.
Welcoming Visitors for Over w200 Years!
The Businesses of Historic St. Charles, Missouri Come See What’s Happening This Summer
Main Street Books
Your St. Charles Independent Bookseller 1st Annual Writer’s Workshop
Winter 2015 non-stop vacation flights from St. Louis to Cancun, Vallarta, Huatulco, Punta Cana & Jamaica
Visit us online or call 1-800-517-2000
3 Local Authors Invaluable Writing Advice Your Questions Answered! Participating Details: Place: Main Street Books Authors: Date: September 24th Ann Hazelwood Time: 7:00 pm Brad R. Cook Cost: $20 at the door Bring your questions! Stephanie Bearce Space is limited- sign up EARLY!
Visit our website for more information: : www.mainstreetbooks.net Contact us: Phone: 636.949.0105 Email: info@mainstreetbooks.net 307 S. Main St. :: St. Charles, MO 63301 01
- Specializing In Scottish, Irish, and Welsh Gifts and Heraldry items. Kilt sales and rentals. Sport, Poly Viscous, and Wool Kilts for sale. Casual and Formal Kilt Rentals for all occasions. Come in and sample the Shortbread!
Inspired Local Food Culture
AUGUST 2015
59
menu options
Champagne mouSSe, apriCoT gelée and almond Tuile STORy AnD ReCIPe By GABRIeLLe DeMICheLe PhOTOGRAPhy By JennIFeR SILveRBeRG
Feast Magazine is celebrating its fifth anniversary this month, and to mark the milestone, we’re celebrating with a decadent dessert that’s as easy to make as it is beautiful. The best part: This chilled treat will cool down hot summer days and is easy enough to assemble for outdoor soirées.
to get the tuiles right. Form tuiles on cooled pans only, until all baked dough has been used. The final tuiles should be crisp and buttery. The size of the tuiles will determine the yield. This recipe yields about 10 to 12 tuiles; if you have extra, you can store them in a sealed container once they’ve cooled.
Before you begin making the almond tuiles, draw an outline of the size of tuile you desire using a bowl of the same size on parchment paper, putting only two or three cookie outlines on a baking sheet. Make two or three templates. From there, start by baking only one or two tuiles at a time until you get a feel for the timing and the thickness – they firm up quickly and can only be shaped while they’re soft. It might take some practice
apricot gelée recipe. Combine 2 cups fresh apricot purée, 4
Tbsp fine granulated sugar and 2 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice in a small saucepot over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring often, until sugar dissolves. In a small bowl, add ½ cup cold water and slowly sprinkle in 4 tsp powdered gelatin and stir to combine. Set aside for 6 minutes. When gelatin has dissolved, whisk into sauce pot with warm purée. Set aside to cool.
Chef’s TiPs Flip siDe. Offset spatulas make quick and easy work of
Mat Matters. Baking mats make baking easy; I recommend
spreading tuile batter evenly. They are also great tools for spreading cream and frosting on cakes and desserts, as they effortlessly create a professional look.
Silpat products. Made with a glass weave embedded with silicone, they are used for cake pans and lining baking sheets. It can replace parchment paper and also be used as a rolling mat.
The Menu • Candied Beet Salad • Tandoori Chicken with Roasted Broccoli • New Potatoes with Lemon and Parsley • Champagne Mousse, Apricot Gelée and Almond Tuile
learn More. In this class you’ll learn about two other decadent
desserts, sabayon and zabaglione, and the differences between them. you’ll also learn how to use powdered gelatin in cooking and baking, including how to use it to stabilize fresh whipped cream.
get hands-on: Join Feast Magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on Wed., aug. 26, at 6pm at the des Peres, Missouri, location, to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $40 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com or call 314.909.1704.
Champagne Mousse and Almond Tuile Serves | 6 to 8 | Mousse
1 1½ 1 4 2
cup extra dry Champagne, divided Tbsp powdered gelatin cup sugar eggs, yolks and whites separated cups heavy cream
tuile
¾ 3 ½ 2 ½ ½
cup fine granulated sugar large egg whites, separated cup butter, melted, cooled to room temperature Tbsp finely ground blanched almonds cup all-purpose flour tsp pure almond extract
| Preparation – Mousse | In a small bowl, add ½ cup Champagne, slowly sprinkle in gelatin and stir to combine. Set aside for 6 minutes. In a double boiler, combine sugar, remaining Champagne and egg yolks and cook, whisking constantly, until thick, about 10 minutes. Whisk in gelatin mix until fully incorporated. Set aside to cool. In a medium bowl, beat cream until stiff. In another bowl, beat egg whites to firm peaks. Fold cream and egg whites into Champagne mixture. Divide mousse among serving glasses, filling about 2/3 full. Refrigerate at least 1 hour. When mousse is set, pour a ½-inch of gelée (see recipe to left) to fully cover. Refrigerate 4 to 8 hours.
| Preparation – Tuile | Preheat oven to 350ºF. In a medium bowl, whisk sugar and egg whites until well combined. Whisk in butter. Add almonds, flour and extract and whisk until smooth. Refrigerate 2 hours. On parchment paper, draw an outline of the tuile size desired. Line a cookie sheet with a clear nonstick baking mat, and place parchment paper template under it. Spoon 1 to 1¼ tsp batter onto mat per your template. Using an offset spatula, spread batter evenly and thinly. Transfer to oven and bake 6 to 8 minutes. Prepare second batch. When edges of tuiles turn golden, remove from oven and wait 1 minute before forming. Using the handle of a wooden spoon, transfer 1 tuile to parchment paper on a cool surface; laying the handle over tuile, wrap tuile around handle, rolling as you go. Press to seal edge and remove tuile from handle. Serve tuiles with chilled Champagne mousse and apricot gelée.
Vietnamese & Chinese Restaurant A "FEAST" Favorite!
Thank You all Local Area Chefs for Making Us #1 Located in the Meridian Shopping Center at Hanley & Eager Roads behind the Best Buy.
FREE PARKING IN THE METRO LINK GARAGE Tu-Th: 11am-9pm • Fr-Su 11am-10pm 8396 Musick Memorial Dr. • 314.645.2835 www.MaiLeeSTL.com
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9200 Oliv Olive St., Ste. 108 | St. Louis, MO 63132 | sugarfirepie.com | 314-736-6300
Inspired Local Food Culture
august 2015
61
sweet ideas
royal icing DecorateD Sugar cookieS Something we’ve tested many times at my bakeshop over the years: How many ways can we use sprinkles? We love them so very much that we even have T-shirts emblazoned with #sprankles on the back. (Not a misspelling, just our own colloquialism!) Each cupcake made at the shop gets a healthy dose, whether for weddings or birthdays, and is always color coordinated to match the theme – we even have a tea cookie coated entirely in rainbow sprinkles that kids adore.
Besides providing a fun pop of color, sprinkles are the ideal adornment to top sugar cookies for novice decorators. I love the following basic sugar cookie recipe because it stays tender after baking and can be flavored with any citrus zest or spice you desire. Often referred to as decorator’s icing because of its versatility, royal icing can be used to coat cakes and cookies, and I think its best quality is that it dries hard, helping you to create any design you can dream up.
Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. Learn more at pintsizebakery.com.
STOry aNd rEcIpE By cHrISTy auguSTIN pHOTOgrapHy By cHEryl WallEr
Royal Icing Decorated Sugar Cookies Serves | 3½ to 4 dozen 3-inch cookies | Cookies
1 cup unsalted butter 1 cup plus 1 tbsp granulated sugar ¼ tsp kosher salt zest of ½ orange 1 whole egg ½ tsp vanilla extract 4 cups all-purpose flour, divided, plus more 3 tbsp whole milk iCing
3 egg whites 1 lb powdered sugar ¼ tsp cream of tartar pinch kosher salt ¼ tsp vanilla extract
| Preparation – Cookies | using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream butter, sugar, salt and zest on medium speed. Take care to not incorporate too much air or cookies will spread. add egg and vanilla and mix until smooth. add half of flour, mixing thoroughly, then milk, and then remaining flour. Finished dough should be chilled until firm, several hours or overnight, by flattening into a disc and wrapping in plastic wrap. preheat oven to 375ºF and line 2 cookie sheets with parchment paper. lightly flour work surface, roll dough to just under ¼ inch, cut into shapes and transfer to baking sheets. Bake cookies 8 to 10 minutes. cool at room temperature for 1 hour or overnight prior to decorating.
| Preparation – Icing | using a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, combine all ingredients and whip on low until just moistened, then whip on high speed until icing is very thick, bright white and no longer shiny. color icing as desired, preferably with gel or paste coloring. place a damp paper towel on top of icing bowl until ready to use. royal icing can be used right away, left at room temperature for 1 day if tightly wrapped or refrigerated for 1 week.
| Decorating | Specialized tips and piping bags are required for cookie decorating, as is patience and an artist’s eye, but flat-iced cookies can be done with the back of a teaspoon. Finish your design with sprinkles, sparkles or tiny candies while icing is still wet or leave them plain to write an inscription with edible “doodle” markers. leave finished cookies at room temperature, uncovered, for 1 to 2 days to dry thoroughly.
Join us Every Sunday for Brunch on our Beautiful Patio
Family Fun Day - SunDay auguSt 16th newly ReleaSeD wine all month live muSic eveRy weekenD
Happy Hour Mondays - Fridays 4- 7 | Live Music Every Thursday www.bishopspost.com 16125 Chesterfield Pkwy W, Chesterfield, MO 63017 636. 536.9404
100 HEMSATH RD. AUGUSTMA MO
Open Daily Sun-Fri 11am - 5pm anD Sat 11am - 6pm NOBOLEISVINEYARDS.COM
636.482.4500
� S U N D AY S � 10–2
SEPTEMBER 13—20, 2015
BRUNCH WITH US
OcEano Bistro
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Mimosas, Bellinis & Bloody Marys Offering a variety of Omelets, Benedicts & Oceano Features 44 N. Brentwood Blvd Clayton, MO 63105 P: 314.721.9400
Kicking off with the 4th Annual Classic Cocktail Party, on 9/13 from 6-9pm at the Lafayette Square Concert in the Park with Miss Jubilee & the Humdingers, we will celebrate area distilleries and the craft of the cocktail. Throughout the week, there will be tastings, spirited dinners and cocktail specials at area bars & restaurants. The St. Louis Bartenders Guild is hosting a barbecue called Punch in the Park in Lafayette Square Park and area Mixologists will create cocktails showcasing local spirits. For more information on all the events going on, please visit the St. Louis Classic Cocktail Party page at www.facebook.com/StLouisCraftSpiritsCocktailWeek Inspired Local Food Culture
AUGUST 2015
63
restaurants.
United. Join todaY
Providing
expert advice, education, and discounts for our members
Promoting and Protecting
Showing
the economic interests of the Missouri restaurant industry
strength in numbers by coming together with a united voice
morestaurants.org | 877-413-7029
Mayhem in Mayberry Welcome to the annual “Miss Mayberry” contest. YOU decide who will walk away with the crown as the contestants are chosen from the audience. They will be judged on beauty, poise, cookin’ skills and a new category this year - hog callin.’ Join Sheriff Andy, Deputy Blarney and Aint Bee for a night of merriment and murder in this interactive comedy mystery served with a 4-course meal to DIE for! Call for reservations today at 314-533-9830 Bring this in for $10 off per person Coupon valid through August 2015. Not valid for groups.
4426 Randall Place • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com
Educating Tomorrow’s Leaders Today EnroLLing now Class of 2015 $5.1 million in scholarship monies AAA Varsity Cheer Champions MSHSAA All region, District 5 - 8 goal Keeper of the year one of the top 50 Christian High Schools in the United States By bestschools.com
1145 Tom Ginnever Ave • O’Fallon • 636.978.1680 • www.lwcs.us 64
feastmagazine.com
AUGUST 2015
ating r b e Cel
Farm Tour & Field Dinner August 29, 2015
Over 75 Years
ss in Busine
Columbia Center for Urban Agriculture presents
6th Annual Harvest Hootenanny Saturday, September 12th, 2015 3-8pm, Urban Farm, 1209 Smith Street Missouri-raised meal, music, games, and more! For more information visit ColumbiaUrbanAg.org
Over 300 Craft Beers Large Wine Shop Huge Whiskey, Bourbon & Scotch Selection
www.homegrownfarmtour.com
Dean’s Liquor 210 West Main St. | Collinsville, IL 618-344-4930 | deansliquor.com
At Skypark, your first day is free. SkyPark is already the best parking value at Lambert. We offer the newest fleet of shuttles and the most courteous staff. If you like our basic service, you’ll love our valet service – with available car wash and oil change – so you’re ready to roll as soon as you touch down.
Use this coupon to get your first day free and pay just $6 a day for the rest of your stay.* Name
The Field Dinner at Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard
Enjoy hand-crafted wine & beer and a variety of seasonal ingredients from local food artisans, farms and meat producers.
*Coupon valid for Self-Park only. Requires minimum three-day stay (first day free; following days at $6). Expires August 31, 2015. Not valid with any other SkyPark offer. Name and email information required in order to use coupon.
For more info or to RSVP www.edg-clif.com
4500 Crestshire Lane • St. Ann • 314.423.3800 • skyparkstl.com
27th Midwest Salute to the Arts
The Midwest’s Premier Art Festival August 28, 29, 30, 2015
Moody Park on Longacre Drive In the HEART of Fairview Heights, ILLINOIS
Just 12 miles from the Arch Friday 6-10 • Saturday 10-8 Sunday 11-5
Daybed
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AUGUST 2015
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2015
taste & see in partnership with
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Coffee + Donuts. Sat., Aug. 29 from 10am to noon
Tour of Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co.’s roasting facility followed by a cupping and samples paired with donuts from Strange Donuts.
Beer + seafooD Boil + iCe Cream. Sat., Aug. 29 from 1 to 4pm
Seafood boil with Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. at 4 Hands Brewing Co. featuring ice cream from Ices Plain and Fancy.
meat + Whiskey. Sun., Aug. 30 from 1 to 3pm
Butchery demo at Bolyard’s Meat and Provisions with food samples and a whiskey tasting to follow with Square One Brewery and Distillery/Spirits of St. Louis.
Wine Pairing Dinner. Sun., Aug. 30 from 6:30 to 9pm
Four-course dinner at Cleveland-Heath with wine pairings from Chaumette Vineyards & Winery and products from Baetje Farms and Salume Beddu.
Coffee + Pastries. Sat., Aug. 29 from 10am to noon
Tour of Thou Mayest Coffee Roasters roasting facility followed by coffee samples paired with baked goods from Heirloom Bakery & Hearth and Dolce Bakery.
Beer + fooD truCk eats + iCe Cream. Sat., Aug. 29 from 1 to 4pm
Pie Hole food truck at KC Bier Co. and ice cream from Glacé Artisan Ice Cream.
meat + Whiskey. Sun., Aug. 30 from 1 to 3pm
Butchery demo at Local Pig with food samples and then a whiskey tasting to follow across the street at J. Rieger & Co.
Wine Pairing Dinner. Sun., Aug. 30 from 6:30 to 9pm
Four-course dinner at The Rieger with wine pairings from Les Bourgeois Vineyards and products from Green Dirt Farm and Local Pig. august 2015
Fri., Aug. 21, 7 to 10pm The Public Media Commons 3653 Olive St., Midtown St. Louis, Missouri Meet the St. Louis chefs and food-and-drink producers who took home Feast 50 wins this year as the Nine Network Public Media Commons lights up with Feast TV segments featuring behind-the-scenes footage and live music. Enjoy food and drink from winners including Pappy’s Smokehouse, Strange Donuts, Mission Taco Joint, 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Chaumette Vineyards & Winery. For tickets, visit feastmagazine.com
2015
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chef of the year
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runner up: gErard Craft, niCHE food group
Congrats to Gerard Craft for winning Best Chef: Midwest at this year’s James Beard awards!
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winners of this yea e h t r’s all o feas t s n t o i t la
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first place: Ed HEatH, ClEvEland-HEatH
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first place: alEx popE, loCal pig, pigwiCH and ClEavEr & Cork runner up: Howard Hanna, tHE riEgEr and Ça va
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first place: liz Huff, Catalpa (arrow roCk, Missouri) runner up: wEs JoHnson, MEtropolitan farMEr (springfiEld, Missouri)
restaurant of the year
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It’s party time at Feast headquarters. This month marks the magazine’s fifth anniversary, and to celebrate we have dedicated this issue to our annual Feast 50 Awards, celebrating the best of the best in food and drink. The awards are made up of 50 categories and divided into three geographic areas: St. Louis, Kansas City and mid-Missouri/southern Illinois. This past spring, Feast readers voted for their favorites in the online Feast 50 Awards poll (more than 100,000 votes were cast!), and the winners are featured in the following pages. Throughout the issue you’ll meet chefs, restaurant owners, brewers, winemakers, farmers and food-and-drink producers whose work is impacting our growing Midwest food culture. What’s clear is that no matter where you live in the region, there are chefs and artisans dedicated to making, growing and cooking high-quality food and drink. For extended profiles and Q&As with all the winners, visit
feastmagazine.com/feast50
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first place: ClEvEland-HEatH runner up: sidnEy strEEt CafE Venerated Sidney Street Cafe and its James Beard nominated chef Kevin Nashan have been featured in national media such as Food & Wine, Bon Appétit and USA Today.
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first place: Catalpa
runner up: story
runner up: MEtropolitan farMEr
Chef of the Year and restaurant of the Year: st. Louis
first PLaCe: ed heath, exeCutive Chef and Co-owner, CLeveLand-heath In 2011, Ed Heath and Jenny Cleveland didn’t know they’d started a successful restaurant. They didn’t even know how long the place would last. “Everything was like shooting from the hip; we were almost certain we’d be closed in six months,” Heath says, now with four years of critical acclaim and a James Beard nomination in the rearview mirror. Heath and Cleveland opened their eponymous elevated comfort-food restaurant Cleveland-Heath in Edwardsville, Illinois, in the midst of the town’s revival, and it’s now an anchor in the community. The restaurant has earned a welldeserved reputation outside of Edwardsville, too, for its focus on regional ingredients and simple, hearty recipes. “I’m a three-, four-, five-ingredient person,” Heath says. “I like to pick things that people know and are going to want to cook in their own home. We like to cook things that are fun, simple and have a little bit of a wow factor behind them.” Heath says that mission extends to how Cleveland-Heath sources its ingredients; the simpler they are, the more likely he is to find them within a 50- to 150-mile radius. It also helps keep the restaurant’s carbon footprint relatively low, which has been a goal from the beginning, as well. “Another thing is it supports regionalism – if I carry 68
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something that’s in season in Mexico, South America or California, I think it homogenizes the food,” he says. “If you source things locally, it gives that regional flair.” Heath first became interested in food around age 14 or 15 when his mom gave him a cookbook, the last in a long line of things she hoped would keep his attention – and it worked. He was a self-described nuisance in school, and sports kept him busy, but cooking soon captured his imagination. “She struck gold with that one,” Heath says. “I wasn’t always nose-in-book, but I was always talking about food; I think she helped define my direction. Once she got the cookbook in front of me, I realized how much stuff was out there.” As he got older, Heath pursued a degree in natural-resource management (he grew up in Utah, after all), but everything changed when he met Cleveland, his future wife. They left Salt Lake City for California and studied at The Culinary Institute of America in St. Helena. The couple wanted to open a restaurant; they just weren’t sure where. When Cleveland’s sister called about a space in Edwardsville, they returned to her family’s native southern Illinois. If Heath and Cleveland are surprised that four years later their restaurant is not only still open, but also critically acclaimed, they definitely didn't see the James Beard
WrITTEn By nAnCy STILES PHOTOGrAPHy By JEnnIfEr SILvErBErG
nomination coming. Heath was named a semifinalist in this year’s Best Chef: Great Lakes category. “I said to myself early on, our being a James Beard nominee is as good of a chance as us getting a Michelin star,” Heath says. "We thought there was no chance. I’m grateful it happened, but every day we go into work, it’s for our staff and our guests. Jenny and I just love cooking.” Heath says the nomination has motivated him to raise the bar at Cleveland-Heath. He won’t be taking pulled pork, deviled eggs or burgers off the menu – they wouldn’t be there if he didn’t love them – but he's refining menu items without changing the restaurant's mission. As for the future, Heath and Cleveland own a small space adjacent to the restaurant where they’ve been planning to open an upscale bar and lounge since 2014. Heath says a few bumps in the road have prevented the opening, but for the past two years, he and Cleveland have been hoping to expand in Edwardsville – they say likely with a completely new concept. “I just want to keep doing things that push us forward and help contribute to the scene here,” Heath says. “I really learn every day.” Cleveland-Heath, 106 N. Main St., Edwardsville, Illinois, 618.307.4830, clevelandheath.com
Chef of the Year: Kansas CitY first PlaCe: alex PoPe, owner, loCal Pig; CulinarY direCtor and founding Partner, Cleaver & CorK
Chef of the Year and restaurant of the Year: Mid-Missouri/southern illinois first PlaCe: liz huff, Chef-owner, CatalPa Written by alex WilKing photography by jenniFer Silverberg
theater season sparks a surge of activity in quiet arrow rock, missouri, as the storied lyceum theatre quickly becomes the focal point of the small town. just down the road, chef liz huff’s cozy restaurant, Catalpa, starts a season of its own to accommodate the influx of visitors. “[the lyceum has] 408 seats, and i have 30,” huff says. “it makes people feel like they’re coming to somebody’s house for dinner, not just a restaurant.” huff opened catalpa in a small house near her own home, and the limited seating allows the kitchen to prepare nearly everything from scratch, from crackers to ice cream. huff will spend the entire day preparing the evening’s meal with her staff of more-or-less three people, traveling to local farms whenever possible to gather ingredients. it’s a system that makes it difficult to hold a steady lunch service but results in creative meals inspired by what's in season. huff’s hard work has
not gone unnoticed; catalpa was named Rural Missouri magazine’s best restaurant consecutively from 2012 to 2014 and was runner-up in 2015. huff’s passion for food and teaching people how to cook was first sparked at the new england culinary institute in vermont. When catalpa isn’t booked, she teaches private cooking classes in arrow rock and in cities across the country. She hopes the future brings more of the same – more opportunities to travel, to teach and to share her love of food with everyone she meets along the way. “if somebody 10 years from now says on his or her birthday, ‘remember that time we went to catalpa and had the best time?’” huff says. “that makes it all worth it.” Catalpa, 503 High St., Arrow Rock, Missouri, 660.837.3324, catalparestaurant.com
Written by pete dulin | photography by zach bauman
alex pope’s career traces a path from fine-dining kitchens to pop-up restaurants, from butcher shop owner to gastropub chef. and with each step, he has honed new skills. born in peoria, illinois, and raised in eau claire, Wisconsin, pope’s family founded the now-shuttered antoinette pope School of Fancy cookery in chicago, which first piqued his interest in food. professionally trained at the institute of culinary education in new york city, pope worked as sous chef at the american restaurant in Kansas city early in his career and as executive chef at r bar. While still at r bar, he was nominated for people’s best new chef 2011: midwest by Food & Wine. around the same time, pope developed Local Pig, a whole-animal butcher shop, an idea that grew out of the charcuterie and sausage he made at the american. Staking a claim in the industrial east bottoms neighborhood, pope opened local pig in 2012 and later opened Pigwich next door, a sandwich shop serving menu items such as pastrami reubens and cubans made with ingredients from the butcher shop. “i had never run a butcher shop or even worked in one when we opened,” pope says. “Sustainable, whole-animal butchery on the scale we do it is a huge amount of work. organization and consistency are so important; so is staff. listening to our customers has been crucial.” in 2014, pope transformed preservation market in Westport into the second local pig location. the shop includes a charcuterie counter, full-service restaurant, craft beer and cocktail bar, and bottle shop. and, in February, pope’s latest project, Cleaver & Cork, a gastropub in the Kansas city power & light district, opened. in just a few years, pope has increased appreciation for the craft of butchery in Kansas city and played an integral role in elevating and growing the local culinary scene to where it is today. Local Pig, multiple locations, thelocalpig.com; Pigwich, 2618 Guinotte Ave., East Bottoms, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.200.1639, facebook.com/pigwich; Cleaver & Cork, 1333 Walnut St., Kansas City Power & Light District, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.541.3484, cleaverandcork.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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RestauRaNt oF the YeaR: kaNsas citY FiRst PLace: the RiegeR Written by Pete dUlin PhotograPhy by ben PiePer
since opening in december 2010, The Rieger has slowly and steadily found its stride. Chef howard hanna and business partner ryan Maybee, joined by general manager tony glamcevski nearly three years ago, have established a solid business in a tumultuous industry. despite launching during the economic downturn, the restaurant and its bar program (along with its lower-level, 48-seat speakeasy cocktail bar, Manifesto) have experienced growth each year and earned critical acclaim at every step along the way. “it takes time to develop a personal style,” hanna says. “i tried to let the cuisine develop in a way that made sense with the way the restaurant looked, felt and operated. i wanted to make sure we cooked food that resonated with our staff, guests and community.” the process of nurturing the restaurant’s identity and voice continues today. “at first, there were ideas we couldn’t execute due to limitations of time, space, equipment, the ability of my cooks, etc.,” hanna says. “as we continually improved and got on our feet financially, we invested in better equipment and a larger staff. We have been able to spend more time on education, training and management.” regional, seasonal ingredients are the focus of the menu, but hanna isn’t a rigid purist about the scope of his food sources. ingredients on the menu range from local pork, nettles and ramps to more exotic fare such as wild boar and octopus. defining “rieger food,” as fans of the restaurant call its menu, was a process for hanna. he exercised patience and allowed time for his food to find its audience so that now dishes such as goat ragù and rabbit pot pie are the rule, not the exception. hanna’s hard work and creative vision for the rieger paid off in 2015 with a best Chef: Midwest semifinalist nomination from the james beard foundation. The Rieger, 1924 Main St., Crossroads Arts District, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.471.2177, theriegerkc.com
New RestauRaNt: Past YeaR: st. Louis FiRst PLace: PeacemakeR LobsteR & cRab co.
Written by heather riske PhotograPhy by jennifer silverberg
in late september 2014, all flights in and out of Chicago o’hare international airport were stopped when a fire broke out at the air traffic control center. in st. louis, the fire caused a bit of a hiccup for Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co., chef-owner kevin nashan’s then 1-month-old benton Park seafood joint, which was expecting its almost daily delivery of fresh oysters, crabs, shrimp and lobster from the east Coast. While the planes – including one bound for st. louis with some truly precious cargo – hung in limbo at o’hare, nashan made the two-plus-hours drive to pick up the haul halfway. “there are always those growing pains,” nashan says. “it’s like you get punched in the face, and you’re like, ‘We didn’t even think of this.’” from the blue gingham napkins and wooden crab mallets to the lobster rolls and peel-andeat shrimp, Peacemaker draws inspiration from the oceanside seafood shacks that dot the east and gulf coasts. long before the restaurant opened for business, it had already become the talk of the town due to nashan’s work at his acclaimed sidney street Cafe just down the street and thanks to Eater, which named Peacemaker one of the summer’s most anticipated openings in a nationwide list.
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Unsurprisingly, then, the restaurant hasn’t had a problem attracting diners eager for fresh shrimp po’boys, hush puppies and crab boils. the raw bar, fashioned from an old farm trough, is a particular favorite, with the day’s featured oysters listed on a gleaming metal sign – Wellfleet, Malpeque or blue yonder, perhaps. sourcing that fresh product became a challenge this winter, though, when boston and the rest of the east Coast were hit by massive snowstorms. “that’s your source – your bloodline,” nashan says. “there’s no faking it. there definitely were short fingernails all through the winter and lots of wheeling and dealing. it was an interesting learning experience; it was almost like a cooking technique on how to order the seafood with all those variables.” for nashan, though, those challenges have been outweighed by interactions with diners – the ones who declare they’ve just had the best lobster roll of their lives or the ones who say the fresh oysters stirred treasured memories of dining somewhere beachside. “We got to open up a restaurant, and people came,” nashan says. “how cool is that?” Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co., 1831 Sidney St., Benton Park, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.772.8858, peacemakerstl.com
LegaCY RestauRaNt: Mid-MissouRi/ southeRN iLLiNois FiRst PLaCe: shaKesPeaRe’s Pizza WRITTEN By HEATHER RISKE
on April Fools’ Day, Shakespeare’s Pizza announced that the legendary Columbia, Missouri, pizza joint would be closing its original Downtown location.
FiRst PLaCe: Q39
WRITTEN By JENNy VERGARA PHoToGRAPHy By AlISTAIR TUTToN
Kansas City is purported to have the greatest concentration of barbecue joints in the U.S. Experts estimate that there are more than 100 in and around the city’s metro area alone. Ask anyone who lives in Kansas City where to find the best barbecue, and you will get a different answer from every person. With so much great ‘cue to try, what is the secret sauce that chef Rob Magee, owner of Q39, used to create his award-winning competition barbecue concept? First, you have to start with great barbecue. “When you go into a project and sink everything you have into it, you hope and pray that success will follow,” he says. “I can tell you that we’ve been three times more successful than I ever thought, and I’m proud of that.” At Q39, Magee serves his two-time national championship, award-winning barbecue from recipes learned during more than a decade of leading the celebrated Munchin’ Hogs competitive barbecue team as pitmaster. Q39 also features wood-fired grilling. There is a big difference between grilling (quick-fire searing) and barbecuing (low and slow), and Magee’s decision to combine the two methods in one restaurant is a truly brilliant extension of the Q39 brand. Menu items such as spare ribs, beef brisket, housemade chipotle sausage and the “best wings on the planet,” are proof positive. The restaurant’s location and décor are also part of its charm. Working with Realm Architecture + Design, Magee gutted the more than 5,000-squarefoot space, giving the interior a casual-yet-stylish “urban rustic” feel with exposed brick, stained concrete floors, dark wooden furniture, industrial accents and an open kitchen. He also added a separate to-go area called Q2Go. A welcoming outdoor patio is located in front with a giant garage door that is opened when the weather is nice. Service also sets Q39 apart from almost all of the other barbecue restaurants in Kansas City, as it’s a full-service, sit-down restaurant. There is no standing in line to order or paying for your food before you snag your seat. There is also a large bar area serving fresh, seasonal cocktails and a selection of local craft beer. To add to the arms-length list of awards Magee won leading Munchin’ Hogs, Q39 has been featured on Eater’s Kansas City Heatmap: Where to Eat Right Now as one of the hottest openings of 2014, and The Huffington Post included it on its list of Five of the Hottest Barbecue Trends for 2015. Due to Q39’s success, Magee has announced plans to possibly open a second location. “It was always in my plans to expand the concept,” Magee says. “Every time I think I know what I need in my next location, the original restaurant hits another milestone, and we grow again.” Q39, 1000 W. 39th St., Westport, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.255.3753, q39kc.com
Kurt Mirtsching has assured diners that the Shakespeare’s they know and love will be returning. After all, he’s pretty familiar with the restaurant – he started at Shakespeare’s in 1978 as a delivery driver, working his way up to dishwasher, pizza maker and finally, general manager.
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“We measured all this stuff before we left and took 360-degree photographs,” Mirtsching says. “The dining room tables are coming back, the counter where you order your pizza – that same piece of furniture is coming back.” Although the Downtown spot, originally a small takeout and delivery pizzeria bought by Jay and Nancy lewis in 1976, is the most famous, its beloved pizza has supported the opening of two other locations in the city: Shakespeare’s West opened in 2003, and a third location, Shakespeare’s South, followed in 2012. When asked how Shakespeare’s became so iconic, Mirtsching quotes its tag line: “It’s the pizza, stupid.” Shakespeare’s Pizza, multiple locations, shakespeares.com
FiRst PLaCe: PEACEMAKER loBSTER & CRAB Co. RuNNeR uP: olD STANDARD FRIED CHICKEN
scenes at Old Standard Fried Chicken in the December 2014 episode of Feast TV.
FiRst PLaCe: Q39
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FiRst PLaCe: CITy BUTCHER AND BARBECUE (SPRINGFIElD, MISSoURI)
When the new location opens, Mirtsching says it will mirror the original. Although the kitchen will be redesigned for better functionality, the new floor plan will mimic that of the old space. When diners enter the restaurant, they’ll still see Shakespeare’s employees tossing dough in the air and layering pizzas with toppings like pepperoni, mushrooms, pineapple and Italian sausage. Even the wall hangings – from the giant yellow “lIQUoR GUNS & AMMo” sign to the hundreds of photos of patrons donning Shakespeare’s T-shirts across the world – will return to their old homes.
(oPeNed iN Past YeaR)
Head to feastmagazine.com to go behind the
RuNNeR uP: PIzzA TREE (ColUMBIA, MISSoURI)
Check out our Q&A with Pizza Tree owner John Gilbreth about his quest to open the quintessential pizza experience in Columbia at feastmagazine.com.
LegaCY RestauRaNt
New RestauRaNt: Past YeaR: KaNsas CitY
For a little more than a year, Shakespeare’s will be relocating just around the corner to a space on Eighth Street while the Ninth Street building is demolished and rebuilt as a retail, office and apartment complex. In August 2016, the restaurant will return to its historic address, albeit in a new structure.
New RestauRaNt
The first reaction was disbelief, as many hoped that the news was a prank. The second was a wave of nostalgia, evoking memories of cheap slices grabbed for a quick weekday lunch, or cheesy, gooey 16-inch pizzas split by families visiting a new college student for the weekend.
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FiRst PLaCe: ANNIE GUNN’S RuNNeR uP: ToNy’S
Visit feastmagazine.com to go behind the scenes at Tony’s in the February 2014 episode of Feast TV.
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FiRst PLaCe: BlUESTEM
Hear from the architect behind the 2014 renovation of the 103-year-old building housing Bluestem at feastmagazine.com.
RuNNeR uP: JJ’S RESTAURANT
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FiRst PLaCe: SHAKESPEARE’S PIzzA (ColUMBIA, MISSoURI) RuNNeR uP: MURRy’S (ColUMBIA, MISSoURI)
PROMOTION
FEATURED WINNERS Kaldi’s Coffee
amigoni winery
St. Louis’ most well known coffee roaster takes home not one, but two, Feast 50 Awards -- one for the best coffee shop and the other for coffee roaster. With locations now open across the state of Missouri, Kaldi’s is growing way beyond its’ first store opening in 1994, in St. Louis’ DeMun neighborhood. Since then, they’ve been dedicated to creating memorable coffee experiences wherever their coffee is served.
Voted best winery destination in Kansas City, located in KC’s West Bottoms, Amigoni Urban Winery is the only in Missouri to exclusively grow Vitis Vinifera grapes. The vineyard in Centerview, Mo., produces nine different varietals, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Chardonnay. Visitors can enjoy Amigoni wines in a tasting, by the glass or by the bottle. They also offer beer flights featuring local brews.
Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. 3983 Gratiot St. Louis, MO 63110
1505 Genessee St., Kansas City, MO 64102 913-890-3289 winery.amigoni.com
kaldiscoffee.com
The arT of enTerTaining
Farmers Gastropub A regular pub is sought more for its liquid fare than its fine cuisine. However, at Farmers Gastropub, they up the ante on the food side of things. They’re a friendly, unpretentious neighborhood pub that serves really good food. It’s proper pub grub and worth a visit.
The Art of Entertaining is recognized among the best caterers in the Feast 50 by offering gourmet home cooking and comfort food since 1994. Their store is filled with homemade soups, appetizers, salads, side dishes, casseroles, entrees and mouthwatering desserts—with both fresh and frozen options. They recently introduced a line of gluten-free, low sodium and light dinners, with all of their offerings available for pickup or delivery. Corporate menus are also available.
Farm to Table since 2009 2620 S. Glenstone Ave. Springfield, MO 65804 417.864.6994 www.farmersgastropub.com
sarah’s cake stop Sarah’s Cake Stop launched in 2010, as one of St. Louis’ most popular food trucks offering cupcakes and other specialty desserts. Working their way through the greater St Louis area, they offer the business community and event goers sweet treats through curbside service. If you are looking for something unique for your event, party or corporate function, you can book their truck online. 636-728-1140 www.sarahscakestop.com
8796 Big Bend Blvd, Webster Groves, MO 63119 314-963-9899 theaofe.com
pryde’s westport Pryde’s, a Kansas City Original since 1968, located in the heart of Westport, features kitchen, home and gourmet items & the LARGEST selection of Fiesta in the Midwest. Fondly know as “The hardware store for cooks!” Enjoy a complimentary cup of coffee or tea while you shop. Wedding & Gift Registry available 115 Westport Road, Kansas City, MO 64111 816-531-5588 www.prydeskitchen.com
robust
Tucker’s Place
The latest introduction from Robust, the Feast 50 award winner for wine selection, is a new private label wine “Luscious”. It’s a Sonoma County, Chardonnay produced by Chandler Hill Vineyards and hand-selected by Robust Owner/Certified Sommelier Stanley Browne. Pair it with foods like scallops, lobster tails, pastas with cream sauces, pork roast and chicken.
Tucker’s Place has been delivering quality steaks at a fair price for more than 30 years and Feast readers are taking notice, awarding them Feast Magazine’s top honor for steakhouse in the Feast 50 poll. You’ll enjoy American cuisine and steaks cut fresh daily. With delicious food, a relaxed, cozy environment, terrific service and reasonable prices, you’ll want to spend an evening at Tucker’s Place.
A dollar from each bottle sold benefits College Bound St. Louis, an organization that helps promising students from under-resourced backgrounds in our community, get into and graduate from college.
tuckersplacestl.com 3 Locations to serve you
Webster Groves, MO | Downtown St. Louis at The MX 314-963-0033 | 314-287-6300 www.robustwinebar.com
cellar rat wine merchants
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Montelle Winery
We may not have the largest selection, but each and every choice we make leads us to a well balanced, eclectic beer selection. We are excited that Kansas City recognizes us for something other than our amazing wine and spirits selections, and we’ll continue to grow, thanks to you, our fans!
Producer of red, white, blush, and fruit wines in the Augusta district. Our philosophy is to farm our vineyards with a respect for the land and the environment. As a result, our wines are fresh, fragrant, focused, and well balanced, but most of all, express the uniqueness of our vineyards. It is this attention to detail that has enabled us to produce wines that are continuously recognized for their uniqueness and superior quality.
1701 Baltimore, Kansas City, MO 64108 816-221-9463, www.cellarratwine.com
201 Montelle Dr, Augusta, MO 63332 (888) 595-9463 Montelle.com
AUGUST 2015
Written by bethany christo PhotograPhy by chris mullins
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if you were to summarize ryan maybee’s career in one word, you might have trouble choosing a term. Perhaps “bartender” – he did win Imbibe magazine’s 2013 inaugural crowning of bartender of the year, but he’s also a certified specialist of Wine and is the only person in the world to hold a masters certificate from beverage alcohol resource in new york city. you could maybe try “business owner,” as he co-owns The Rieger and its lower-level speakeasy Manifesto with chefpartner howard hanna. or you might go with “entrepreneur,” as he co-founded the annual Paris of the Plains cocktail Festival, which occurs each september; he consults on local wine and cocktail lists through his roundtable marketing and consulting business; and in 2014, he resurrected the 1880s-era Kansas city distillery J. Rieger & Co. with andy rieger, who is the great-great-great-grandson of the distillery’s founder, Jacob rieger.
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and the rieger] in the completely underdeveloped crossroads arts District,” maybee says. “and i think that mentality inspires other people.” When maybee learned the history behind the rieger family and the impact Prohibition had on Kansas city’s cultural and political landscape, he incorporated it all into manifesto. nostalgia and nods to the city’s history run through all of maybee’s ventures. “i’m more inspired locally than by places outside of Kansas city,” he says. During Prohibition, Kansas city was nicknamed Paris of the Plains for sidestepping rules against distributing and selling alcohol. and the first spirit J. rieger & co. bottled was Kansas city Whiskey, a pre-Prohibition style that uses 15-year-old oloroso sherry as a prominent ingredient. “Just in my history, Downtown [Kansas city] is two different worlds,” he says. “things change, but if you’re true to your identity, there’s longevity.”
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Aviary Patisserie, 2144 E. Republic Road E120, Springfield, Missouri, 417.881.9736, aviarycafe.com
runner uP: Dylan Fox, barley, Wheat anD rye (sPringFielD, missouri)
First PlaCe: sarah osborn, niche
First PlaCe: megan garrelts, bluestem anD rye runner uP: nicolette noel Foster, Paris brothers, inc./Parisi caFé
Turn to p.19 to learn more about Nicolette Foster’s work at Paris Brothers, Inc.
First PlaCe: bruno marchanDise, aviary Patisserie (sPringFielD, missouri) runner uP: Jill rostine, sycamore (columbia, missouri)
First PlaCe: bruno MarChandise, exeCutive Pastry CheF, aviary Patisserie Written by ettie berneKing
to keep up with growing customer demand, marchandise moved down the road to a much larger production kitchen and banquet space in July to make pastries and breads, which are delivered to businesses, catering events and, of course, to the bakery.
First PlaCe: aaron rostaD, sycamore (columbia, missouri)
runner uP: simone Faure, la Patisserie chouquette Par simone Faure
Pastry CheF: Mid-Missouri/southern illinois
marchandise has long since shuttered the nixa shop, but two years ago, the French expat was approached to head the patisserie program – pastries, breads and more – for aviary cafe and creperie and Aviary Patisserie in springfield, missouri, as executive pastry chef. each morning at 2am, the small kitchen hums to life as buttery, warm croissants emerge from the oven and eclairs are piped full of chocolate or coffee-cream filling. the hazelnut ring is his go-to indulgence with its ring of praline cream layered between airy choux. as the morning unfolds, the display case fills with croissants, cakes and bread. “more people are interested in trying pastries,” marchandise says, explaining how business has
runner uP: Jenn tosatto, the rieger
regionally produced ingredients.
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baKe shoP
When aviary Patisserie opened, its mix of traditional european sweets and vibrant décor made it an instant hit. like its kitchen, the patisserie is practically standingroom only, and it gets crowded quickly as customers bustle in to buy fruit tarts and napoleon puff pastries, which can take an hour to make due to the sheer amount of butter involved. at night, regulars snag the remaining baguettes to take home for dinner.
First PlaCe: ryan maybee, maniFesto
Sarah Osborn’s innovative desserts made with
Manifesto, 1924 Main St., Crossroads Arts District, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.536.1325, theriegerkc.com/manifesto
grown. “People travel more. they watch more cooking shows and are eager to try new things.”
runner uP: Kyle mathis, taste
Visit feastmagazine.com to learn more about
Perhaps the history books will one day recount maybee’s impact on Kansas city. but first, they’ll have to figure out how to file him.
When bruno marchandise opened a French bakery in nixa, missouri, 15 years ago, customers weren’t clamoring for eclairs and chocolate croissants. “People would ask how i could be a bakery and not have donuts,” marchandise says with a laugh. “i bake. i don’t fry.” luckily for marchandise, tastes are changing in southwest missouri.
First PlaCe: teD Kilgore, Planter’s house
Pastry CheF
maybee made his way up the local restaurant-industry totem pole before landing his first big break as a bartender at Pierpont’s at union station. he says he was far from qualified at the time but was quickly humbled and learned the ropes from expert bartenders. around the same time, the revitalization of Downtown was underway, which he says solidified his commitment to the city. “i always took risks when starting things of my own, like opening [manifesto
Mixologist
Mixologist: Kansas City First PlaCe: ryan Maybee, Co-owner, ManiFesto and the rieger
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First PlaCe: Pint size baKery & coFFee runner uP: la Patisserie chouquette Par simone Faure First PlaCe: Dolce baKery runner uP: muD Pie vegan baKery & coFFee First PlaCe: uPrise baKery (columbia, missouri) runner uP: amycaKes baKery (sPringFielD, missouri)
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strange donuts
Tony’s
They’re strange, they’re popular and they’re the most beloved donut shop in St. Louis according to the readers of Feast magazine. Strange Donuts makes fresh, made-from-scratch dones (Classics, Creations, and Stranger collaborations with chefs and friends inside and out of St. Louis) seven days a week in Maplewood, Kirkwood, and Columbia, Missouri. They also founded Strange Cares, a donut-driven nonprofit helping empower kids with community partners Big Brothers Big Sisters, Girls on the Run, and The Children’s Heart Foundation.
Established in 1946, Tony’s is recognized as a legacy among Feast readers. This award-winning restaurant is a landmark in the community and is an obvious choice for celebrating the milestones in life or simply enjoying a night out on the town. From a distinctive wine list to dishes finished tableside, you’ll experience why Tony’s continues to be on top of St. Louisan’s restaurant list.
@strangedonuts strangedonuts.com
Pie oh my “Oh my!” is exactly what comes to mind when you swing open the door to this Maplewood shop and are greeted with happy aromas of butter, sugar and a little cinnamon from their freshly baked pies. This quaint shop offers plump fruit pies, decadent cream pies and you can also choose from daily flavors in an individual slice, a tart or a mini-pie. Fullsized pies are also available but must be ordered in advance.
2719 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, MO 314.704.4416 pieohmystl.com
420 Market Street St. Louis, MO 63102 314-231-7007
Culinary Center of Kansas City The Culinary Center of Kansas City is a unique venue in the Midwest dedicated to the education, cultivation and appreciation of food, wine and culinary tradition through cooking classes, interactive cooking parties, private events and caterings that are brilliantly conceived, precisely and joyously executed, and that consistently exceed client expectation. Stop by to learn more about our classes, interactive cooking parties, All Hands for Hunger community service cooking event, Junior Chefs Academy, Midwest BBQ Institute, Dinners on Demand, CookWell!, Tuesday Lunch, The Kitchen Shop and more! 7920 Santa Fe Drive, Overland park, KS 66204 913-341-4455, kcculinary.com
Ices plaIn and fancy Ices Plain and Fancy gives you a scoop of science with your ice cream. The shop’s specialty is liquid nitrogen ice cream, which involves blending an ice cream base with the icy cold chemical and then heating the outside of the bowl with a blowtorch. Customers can watch the process unfold from behind the glass-lined counter – which, due to the nitrogen, bubbles over with pale smoke – and it only takes a minute or two to prepare each order. Their most recent addition is “boozy ices”, adding beer and liquor to the mix. 2256 S 39th St., St. Louis, MO 63110 (314) 601-3604 www.icesplainandfancy.com
Digregorio’s italian Market Digregorio’s Italian Market has been Family owned and operated since 1971 located on “The Hill”. We offer a full line of Italian Foods, Italian Novelties, Imported Cheeses, Choice Meats, Specialty Gift Baskets, Homemade Italian Sausages, and Imported Wines.
5200 Dagget (at Marconi), St. Louis, Mo 63110 314-776-1062, www.digregoriofoods.com
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Four Hands Brewery Voted as Feast Magazine’s best microbrewery, you’ll want to visit 4 Hands Brewing Company, located in the Lasalle Park neighborhood of St. Louis, MO. With a focus on providing a well-rounded portfolio, 4 Hands offers four yearround beers along with a slew of seasonal beers. It boasts a 20,000 square foot brewing facility with 3,000 of those square feet dedicated to barrel aging. The barrels used range from whiskey to wine, allowing for a complex, yet drinkable line of beers. In addition, a designated sour program is being added to the line.
1220 S 8th St, St. Louis, MO 63104 (314) 436-1559 4handsbrewery.com
Green Dirt Farms Set in the bluffs above the Missouri River Valley about 40 miles northwest of Kansas City, Green Dirt Farm has earned quite a reputation for its high-quality cheese and dairy products made from sheep’s milk. Feast readers are among their fans, naming them best cheese maker on Kansas City’s first Feast 50 list. Co-owners Sarah Hoffman and Jacqueline Smith share a commitment to bring the best farmstead sheep’s milk cheeses, yogurt and 100% grass-fed lamb to market.
20363 Mt Bethel Rd, Weston, MO 64098 (816) 386-2156 greendirtfarm.com
Winemaker: kansas City and mid-missouri/southern illinois First PlaCe: les Bourgeois Vineyards Written By Liz miLLer photoGraphy By Jonathan Gayman
Winemaker
Winery: destination hermann, missouri
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Written By Liz miLLer
today, the natural beauty of Hermann, Missouri, is one of the historic town’s greatest strengths, but when German settlers arrived from pennsylvania in the 1830s, they were less captivated by the rugged land. their initial plan had been to build a German colony, but their vision of flat farmland was quickly upended in hilly hermann. the path of least resistance proved to be growing wine grapes, as the soil and conditions were similar to those in southern and eastern Germany. “they saw this wooded, rocky terrain and had to do what they could,” says eli mcdonald, director of tourism for the hermann area Chamber of Commerce. for almost a century, hermann was a thriving wine-producing region, eventually growing into the third largest in the world. the town was forever changed in 1919, though, when prohibition wiped out the wine industry. more than 45 years later, in 1965, Jim and Betty held bought Stone Hill Winery (first established in 1847), restored its original arched underground cellars and put grapes back in the ground. today, there are 11 wineries in and around hermann. many of these wineries grow french-american hybrid wine grapes such as Vignoles, Chardonel and traminette, as well as norton, missouri’s state grape. in June, the missouri Wine and Grape Board released its latest economic impact report, which reflects an increase in the number of wineries and cases of wine produced across the state since the previous study in 2009. the report credits the majority of this growth with increased tourism at wineries and consumer demand. in the past 10 years, a trolley-meets-bus hit the city’s 165-year-old streets to transport visitors from winery to winery, and in 2014, an amtrak station opened in hermann, connecting the city to stops across missouri. “Without the wineries in hermann, the city wouldn’t be where it is today,” mcdonald says. “the role they play is crucial.” Hermann Area Chamber of Commerce, 312 Market St., Hermann, Missouri, 573.486.2744, visithermann.com
Bomgaars arrived at Les Bourgeois in 1992 and helped expand the work of dr. Curtis Bourgeois, his wife, martha, and sons, who had been making wine on their land in central missouri for 15 years. Bomgaars got his start serving at the winery’s a-frame outdoor restaurant, while Les Bourgeois head winemaker Jacob holman cut his teeth serving in the tasting room. Bomgaars describes the early days at Les Bourgeois as “making wine in dr. Bourgeois’ garage” and only serving and selling wine at the tasting room. Les Bourgeois is now the third-largest winery in missouri. “to take it from that to an operation employing 70 people with multistate distribution is pretty exciting,” Bomgaars says. the winery’s success in the past three decades – Les Bourgeois has won many prestigious winemaking awards, including five medals of excellence at the Jefferson Cup in 2014 – has supported its expansion into other industries, such as rocheport distilling Co., a partnership with distiller Jonny Ver planck. When the distillery’s first product, a white rum called rocheport rum, was released in may 2014, the first batch of 60 cases sold out in five days. the rum is currently sold in more than 60 locations throughout missouri. Bomgaars says the distillery is making final tweaks to a light rum and a dark rum, with plans to also develop a spiced rum. once the line of rum is fully up and running, Bomgaars says the distillery may explore making missouri grape-based liqueurs or potentially collaborating with their friends at Broadway Brewery to distill beer to make single-batch whiskeys. “here’s a whiskey made out of apa; here’s a whiskey made out of brown ale,” he says. Bomgaars says winery operations are still going strong, too. in 2014, Les Bourgeois began distributing wine on tap to restaurants in central missouri and st. Louis. “Wine on tap is giving our wines placement in locations we wouldn’t normally have,” he says. “that’s exciting for us and for the missouri wine industry.”
scenes during harvest season at Stone Hill Winery in the May 2014 episode of Feast TV.
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First PlaCe: Les BourGeois Vineyards (roCheport, missouri)
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First PlaCe: Les BourGeois Vineyards
runner uP: stone hiLL Winery
runner uP: st. James Winery (st. James, missouri)
Winery: destination
“We want to provide education, a spot for small and large groups, and a place to experience multiple aspects of what missouri can offer in the alcohol world,” says Cory Bomgaars, vice president of winery operations at Les Bourgeois.
runner uP: stone hiLL Winery
Head to feastmagazine.com to go behind the
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First PlaCe: hermannhof Vineyards (hermann, missouri) runner uP: monteLLe Winery (auGusta, missouri)
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First PlaCe: amiGoni urBan Winery
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First PlaCe: Les BourGeois Vineyards (roCheport, missouri)
runner uP: Les BourGeois Vineyards
runner uP: stone hiLL Winery
distillery
photo Courtesy the missouri department of tourism
Les Bourgeois Vineyards in rocheport, missouri is having a banner year. the winery celebrated its 30th anniversary in June, rebranded its young distilling company and moved distilling operations to a new on-site facility. Within the next six months, the winery will open a remodeled tasting room to showcase its wines and spirits, as well as the beers being produced on-site by Columbia-based Broadway Brewery, which brews beer in rented facility space at the winery.
First PlaCe: Chaumette Vineyards & Winery (ste. GeneVieVe, missouri)
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Learn about the growth of local craft distilling at feastmagazine.com.
First PlaCe: square one BreWery & distiLLery (spirits of st. Louis) runner uP: pinCkney Bend distiLLery (neW haVen, missouri)
Les Bourgeois Vineyards, 12847 W. Hwy BB, Rocheport, Missouri, 1.800.690.1830, missouriwine.com
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First PlaCe: J. rieGer & Co.
Available across Missouri, J. Rieger & Co.’s first product, Kansas City Whiskey, is named for a pre-Prohibition style of whiskey popular in Kansas City that uses sherry as a prominent ingredient for flavor and coloring.
runner uP: dark horse distiLLery (Lenexa, kansas)
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First PlaCe: Copper run distiLLery (WaLnut shade, missouri) runner uP: missouri spirits (sprinGfieLd, missouri)
Microbrewery (less than 15,000 barrels annually): st. louis runner up: urban chestnut brewing co. Written by nancy StileS PhotograPhy by judd demaline
Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. has had one hell of a year. it opened a 450-seat bierhall and brewery in the grove, expanded distribution across Kansas city and missouri in columbia, jefferson city and cape girardeau as well as in chicago, indianapolis and even bought a brewery in bavaria, germany, which officially began production this summer. it was also cited as one of the reasons Esquire magazine named St. louis its 2015 bar city of the year. at some point this year, urban chestnut will exceed the 15,000 barrel-a-year production needed to upgrade it from a microbrewery to a regional brewery. reflecting on so many recent milestones, cofounder and brewmaster Florian Kuplent just chuckles. “We hired more people to focus
on sales and get the beer in front of more people,” he says, “but it really comes down to people buying the beer and liking the beer.” looking back, 2011 was a landmark year for brewing in St. louis, and Kuplent and cofounder david Wolfe were an integral part of the craft beer-industry boom. Formerly anheuser-busch employees, Kuplent and Wolfe opened the flagship midtown brewery that year, and just three years later, urban chestnut was producing about 12,000 barrels annually. the grove brewery was built out of necessity to grow brewing operations. the bierhall also has a full kitchen, expanding on the limited food menu served at the midtown location, and has become a dining destination in its own right. “the midtown brewery represents the old World side, and the grove brewery
represents the new World side,” Kuplent says, referring to the brewery’s reverence and revolution beer series, which focus on classic german-style beers and modern american craft styles, respectively.
location is right in the center of hallertau [in bavaria], the largest hop-growing region in the world, close to munich, close to where i grew up. it all came together perfectly and made the decision fairly easy.”
expansion was always part of the business plan, Kuplent says, but of course he and Wolfe had no idea the kind of sales they’d see in just a few years, nor did they realize a foray into Kuplent’s home country was on the horizon.
the german brewery, called urban chestnut hallertauer brauerei, rolled out urban chestnut’s trademark Zwickel and two new beers in june; the beer will eventually be flowing in St. louis, as well. in the meantime, there are more plans to expand urban chestnut’s distribution footprint.
“Well, i can’t say that it was the most planned-out decision we’ve made in the past few years,” Kuplent says. “craft beer or specialty beers are getting more interest, and there’s some excitement around that [in germany], so we had talked about possibly doing something. the opportunity came up, and i guess we just took advantage of it. the
“obviously, we’ll be working on plenty of new beer styles and beer recipes,” Kuplent says. “We’re definitely going to try to keep it fun and keep life interesting as much as we can.” Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., multiple locations, 314.222.0143, urbanchestnut.com
Microbrewery (less than 15,000 barrels annually): Mid-Missouri/southern illinois runner up: Flat branch pub & brewing Written by bethany chriSto over the course of its 21 years in business in columbia, missouri, it’s likely that pints at Flat Branch Pub & Brewing were the first sips of craft beer for many who sidled up to the brewpub’s circular, 12-tap bar.
and aging programs. much of the original lineup is still being served today, including honey wheat, Katy trail Pale ale, oil change oatmeal stout, brown ale and green chile ale brewed with fresh anaheim and serrano peppers.
the beer scene in columbia was pretty sparse in 1994, with most local bars only serving light american lagers. Flat branch founder tom Smith, an avid home brewer, was inspired to open the brewpub after visiting one in colorado during a ski trip. its launch marked columbia’s first brewery since 1841 (and remained the only one on the scene until grindstone brewing co. opened in 2005, which then closed just six months later).
“although it might not be our top seller, the beer we cannot run out of is our green chile,” Wood says. “We have fanatics who get mad – they don’t want anything else.”
“i was more scared when [grindstone] closed than when it opened,” says Flat branch general manager lance Wood, who has been with the brewpub since day one, starting as a bartender after attending college at the university of missouri. Flat branch’s 10-hectoliter brew system is the same one it’s used since 1994 – though additional tanks have been added in the cellar – to produce the ales as well as more than 100 other styles, with around 30 of those regularly served at the brewpub. the 22 serving and conditioning tanks and 12 taps mean brewmaster larry goodwin, who is only Flat branch’s third head brewer in the past two decades, has the chance to play around with different styles 76
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ninety-eight percent of the food served at the brewpub is made in-house, and ingredients used to make beer and food offerings often overlap – spent grain leftover from the brewing process is used to make beer bread, and beer is used in condiments like beer mustard. early on, Flat branch dabbled in wholesale kegs but quickly determined it wasn’t the focus – Wood says he would much rather sell beer at the brewpub than package it for sale elsewhere. “our beer travels about 60 feet from brewery to patron,” Wood says. “no warehouses, no temperature shifts – just tasty beer.” Flat Branch Pub & Brewing, 115 S. Fifth St., Downtown, Columbia, Missouri, 573.499.0400, flatbranch.com
Bar Program: Beer first PlaCe: The Side ProjecT cellar
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runner uP: inTernaTional TaP houSe
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first PlaCe: bier STaTion runner uP: grinderS first PlaCe: 44 STone Public houSe (coluMbia, MiSSouri) runner uP: The PaTTon alley Pub (SPringfield, MiSSouri)
Bar Program: Wine
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first PlaCe: robuST Wine bar runner uP: olio
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first PlaCe: Tannin Wine bar & KiTchen runner uP: jj’S reSTauranT
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first PlaCe: The Wine cellar & biSTro (coluMbia, MiSSouri) runner uP: VinTage PariS (holliSTer, MiSSouri)
Bar Program: CoCktails first PlaCe: PlanTer’S houSe runner uP: TaSTe
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first PlaCe: ManifeSTo runner uP: juleP cocKTail club first PlaCe (tie): ScoTch & Soda (SPringfield, MiSSouri) SycaMore (coluMbia, MiSSouri)
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miCroBreWery
first PlaCe: 4 handS breWing co. runner uP: urban cheSTnuT breWing co.
(less than 15,000 Barrels annually)
first PlaCe: free STaTe breWing co. runner uP: KanSaS ciTy bier co. first PlaCe: MoTher’S breWing co. (SPringfield, MiSSouri) runner uP: flaT branch Pub & breWing (coluMbia, MiSSouri)
Inspired Local Food Culture
august 2015
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Regional BReweRy fiRst place: The SainT LouiS Brewery (SchLafLy Beer)
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RunneR up: BouLevard Brewing co.
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fiRst place: BouLevard Brewing co. RunneR up: TaLLgraSS Brewing co. (ManhaTTan, KanSaS)
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fiRst place: BouLevard Brewing co. RunneR up: The SainT LouiS Brewery (SchLafLy Beer)
stoRe: BeeR selection fiRst place: randaLL’S wineS & SpiriTS
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RunneR up: friar TucK
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fiRst place: goMer’S MidTown
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fiRst place: Brown derBy inTernaTionaL wine cenTer (SpringfieLd, MiSSouri)
RunneR up: Bier STaTion
RunneR up: MacadoodLeS
pho: st. louis fiRst place: mai lee
wriTTen By Liz MiLLer
when Mai Lee opened in St. Louis three decades ago, it was the first vietnamese restaurant in the city. after emigrating from vietnam to the u.S. in 1980, Lee Tran and her family settled in St. Louis. Lee clocked countless shifts in the kitchens of chinese restaurants across the city before opening her own restaurant in 1985. in the early days, Mai Lee served a full menu of chinese dishes but also incorporated the foods that Lee grew up cooking. in January 1987, the late, great St. Louis PostDispatch restaurant critic Joe pollack helped put Mai Lee on the city’s radar with a rave review of its vietnamese fare.
– but each starts with the same beef bone broth foundation, prepared with an aromatic spice blend that includes chinese five-spice, ginger, onions, star anise, cloves, allspice, fennel seeds, coriander seeds and cinnamon slow-cooked with beef bones for anywhere from seven to 12 hours. “The longer you cook it, the more layers of richness come out,” Qui says. “it all depends on how the bones react and how it tastes; it’s never a formula.”
from day one, the Trans’ oldest child, Qui, was involved in the business; he was 8 years old when Mai Lee opened and vividly recalls washing dishes in the kitchen and entertaining customers in the dining room. as a teen, he first learned how to properly use a knife and cut the many vegetables and herbs that dot the restaurant’s menu.
“not to toot our horn, but i think my mother deserves a lot of credit because she’s made it easier for other vietnamese restaurants to open here; she familiarized the great citizens of St. Louis with this food 30 years ago,” he says. “we don’t dumb anything down – this is our pho; this is how it’s made; either you like it or you don’t like it.”
you’ll still find Qui at Mai Lee today – though the restaurant relocated from its original university city location to much larger and updated digs in Brentwood, Missouri, in 2010. he’ll either be in the front of the house busing tables, talking to guests or packing up to-go orders at the bar, or in the kitchen, manning the wok station or stirring vats of fragrant, spice-driven beef bone broth destined for bowls of pho, the vietnamese rice noodle soup made with broth; meat, seafood or tofu; and fresh herbs and vegetables. Qui says the pho, in particular, is the restaurant’s best-selling dish.
and of course, Qui credits the restaurant’s loyal customers – including the many chefs and industry heavy hitters who belly up to the bar for lunch each week – with allowing him and his family to do the work they love.
Mai Lee serves six versions of pho – there’s pho ga, made with chicken, and pho tom, made with shrimp
Mai Lee, 8396 Musick Memorial Drive, Brentwood, Missouri, 314.645.2835, maileestl.com
reflecting back on 30 years of business, Qui praises his mother’s talent and hard work in the kitchen with helping change food culture in St. Louis.
“The beauty of it is that over the years we’ve seen two generations – older folks who bring their children who are now grown up, and then they’re bringing in their children,” Qui says. “i get 10-year-old kids who try pho for the first time and they love it – that’s really cool.”
stoRe: wine selection fiRst place: The wine & cheeSe pLace
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RunneR up: The wine MerchanT
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fiRst place: ceLLar raT
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fiRst place: Brown derBy inTernaTionaL wine cenTer (SpringfieLd, MiSSouri)
when Lesley and Barry Million decided to move to a farm in fordland, Missouri, they figured it was finally time to have kids – or at least, time to get some baby goats. “when we bought the farm, we started thinking of ways the land could pay for itself,” Barry says. “Lesley always wanted goats ever since she was a little girl, so we got two dairy goats.”
RunneR up: goMer’S MidTown
once the goats were old enough, Lesley and Barry started making goat-milk cheeses, and Lesley attended one of Merryl winstein’s cheesemaking classes in St. Louis. over the years, the two initial goats had baby goats of their own, and now the Million’s herd numbers 75, which supplies the milk needed to make the couple’s chèvre, blue cheese, crottin de ozarks and finley feta. in 2012, the Millions opened Terrell Creek Farm and began selling their goat cheeses. “for the first three years we couldn’t make enough product to meet the demand,” Lesley says.
RunneR up: MacadoodLeS
Kitchen stoRe
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fiRst place: KiTchen conServaTory RunneR up: BerTareLLi cuTLery fiRst place: pryde’S KiTchen & neceSSiTieS RunneR up: The cuLinary cenTer of KanSaS ciTy fiRst place: TaLLuLahS (coLuMBia, MiSSouri) RunneR up: everyThing KiTchenS (SpringfieLd, MiSSouri)
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cheesemaKeR: mid-missouRi/southeRn illinois fiRst place: teRRell cReeK faRm wriTTen By eTTie BerneKing
Lesley and Barry vend at the farmers Market of the ozarks and webb city farmers Market where they have a constant stream of customers stopping to sample fresh, creamy chèvre – in flavors such as chocolate chip, pumpkin-walnut and bacon-chive – and to pet the young goats the couple usually brings with them. The farm’s best-selling cheese is its italian herbed garlic chèvre, but Lesley and Barry have been working on several new products they’re eager to debut, including The dude, a firmer and milder cousin to Brie that takes three weeks to age, and tomme made with smoked paprika or reishi mushroom powder. “There’s been so much growth since we started,” Lesley says. “The past three years, we’ve had chefs contact us to make them special cheeses, and i think that’s customer-driven.” one of those specialty cheeses is the crottin de ozarks – a bloomy rind that’s white-mold ripened. “it’s similar to Brie but has a stronger flavor and is a bit runnier,” Lesley says. Thanks to booming business and her curious palate, Lesley, along with 11 other cheesemakers, was awarded this year’s scholarship to attend the american cheese Society annual conference in July where she learned more about refining her cheesemaking craft. Terrell Creek Farm, 508 Fordland Hills Dr., Fordland, Missouri, 417.209.0021, terrellcreekfarm.com
pho
Food Truck: SweeT: Mid-MiSSouri/SouThern illinoiS FirST place: hurTS donuT whaM-bulance
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tim Clegg, co-owner of Hurts Donut in Springfield, missouri, spent three years dreaming up the most bizarre and indulgent donuts he could imagine. When hurts opened Downtown in 2013, Clegg began living his dream, slinging fried treats 24 hours a day, seven days a week. “We had no idea what we were getting into,” he says. “the day we opened, we did more than $2,000 in sales, and it was up 10 percent each day after that.” to keep up with demand, Clegg took his donuts on the road and started delivering orders in a tricked-out ambulance dubbed the Hurts Donut Wham-bulance. today, Clegg commands a fleet of three Wham-bulances in Springfield and one in Wichita, kansas. inside each Wham-bulance, racks of hot donuts are topped with crushed-up oreos, salted pretzels, sliced strawberries and even pepperoni. aside from specialties like the Fire in the hole, a donut hole filled with jalapeño cream cheese slathered in Sriracha glaze, the star of the show is the maple-bacon long john; Clegg sold more than 100,000 last
year alone. even Buzzfeed has a sweet spot for hurts – in February, the site listed hurts’ nutella-filled donut second on its list of “33 Doughnuts you have to try before you Die.” in the same spirit of fun that bore the Wham-bulance, hurts recently rolled out seasonal “character deliveries,” where a particularly hilarious and theatrical costumed employee dances his or her way into workplaces with donut orders in tow. Videos of the service went viral, and special deliveries are now booked weeks in advance. even the selection of characters has grown: you can now have donuts delivered by a singing cowboy, a karate-chopping ninja or a dancing cupid. in just two years, the shop opened a second location in norman, oklahoma. in late June, the flagship in Springfield moved to a new location down the street that’s double the size, with plans to convert the former space into a specialty hot dog spot. hurts also opened its first franchise in Wichita in July so folks in kansas can call upon the Wham-bulance.
runner up: pho granD FirST place: Vietnam CaFe runner up: iphotoWer FirST place: bambu VietnameSe CuiSine (SpringFielD, miSSouri) runner up: Saigon biStro (Columbia, miSSouri)
cheeSeMaker
Written by ettie berneking photography by braD zWeerink
FirST place: mai lee
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FirST place: baetJe FarmS (bloomSDale, miSSouri) runner up: marCoot JerSey Creamery (greenVille, illinoiS)
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FirST place: green Dirt Farm (WeSton, miSSouri) runner up: JaSon Wiebe Dairy (Durham, kanSaS)
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FirST place: terrell Creek Farm (ForDlanD, miSSouri) runner up: green Dirt Farm (WeSton, miSSouri)
Hurts Donut, 320 Park Central W., Springfield, Missouri, 417.300.6106, facebook.com/HurtsDonutCompany
Written by ettie berneking photography by braD zWeerink
Springfield, missouri, is experiencing a british invasions, but it’s not yorkshire pudding or fish and chips that have diners praising the queen – it’s pasties. popular across the pond, pasties are baked hand-pies stuffed with meat, potatoes and vegetables that are now served in Springfield at the London Calling Pasty Co. food truck. parked inside the Springfield mobile Food park along glenstone avenue, london Calling is hard to miss. there’s the decked-out food truck with its display case filled with pasties, and then there’s the fenced-in eating area with picnic tables, bright red umbrellas and a replica of the iconic red telephone booths that line british streets. to complete the english vibe, a red double-decker bus offers indoor seating where customers can enjoy their pasties. it’s easy to fill up on the truck’s Stilton coleslaw, sausage rolls and shepherd’s pie, but no visit is complete without a pasty. Flavors include steak and Cheddar, bangers and mash and the bombay with roasted cauliflower, chickpeas, potatoes and spicy tomatoes bathed in a blend of coriander, turmeric, garam masala and cayenne. neil gomme (who hails from england) and his sister-in-law Carrie mitchell own the truck. During the first two days of business in 2013, gomme and mitchell sold out of the 800 pasties they’d prepared for the week. as the business has grown, so have operations; gomme and mitchell now have a smaller food truck for events, and they plan to open a brickand-mortar restaurant in Springfield in early 2016. London Calling Pasty Co., 836 N. Glenstone Ave., Springfield, Missouri, 417.380.7943, londoncallingpastycompany.com
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FirST place: Sarah’S Cake Stop runner up: holy Crepe! FirST place: the Funnel Cake truCk runner up: CoFFee Cake kC FirST place: hurtS Donut Wham-bulanCe (SpringFielD, miSSouri) runner up: pineapple Whip (SpringFielD, miSSouri)
Food Truck: Savory
Food Truck: Savory: Mid-MiSSouri/SouThern illinoiS FirST place: london calling paSTy co.
Food Truck: SweeT
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FirST place: Seoul taCo runner up: guerrilla Street FooD FirST place: pie hole runner up: el teneDor FirST place: lonDon Calling paSty Co. (SpringFielD, miSSouri) runner up: ozark mountain biSCuit Co. (Columbia, miSSouri)
PROMOTION
FEATURED WINNERS Historic soulard Farmers market
Sugarfire Pie
We are the oldest Farmer’s Market West of the Mississippi and we are thrilled to be voted the best by FEAST readers! Spanning more than two city blocks, we offer a wide variety of fresh offerings and fun surprises from over 80 vendors. Come browse our aisles bursting with produce, meats, cheeses, spices, gourmet kettle corn, flowers, baked goods and unique gifts and craft! We are open year round, Wednesday thru Saturday, so please come explore!
Sugarfire Pie is the sister restaurant of Sugarfire Smoke House located just two doors down in Olivette. They offer a variety of seasonal baked goods in a vintage inspired atmosphere. In addition to chef Carolyn Downs’ creations, Sugarfire Pie also serves locally made Ronnie’s ice cream and self serve frozen custard. 9200 Olive St., Ste. 108, St. Louis, MO 63132 sugarfirepie.com 314-736-6300
730 Carroll Street, St. Louis Missouri 63104 314-622-4180 www.soulardmarket.com
Seoul Taco
Spin! pizza SPIN! Neapolitan Pizza serves hand-spun, made-from-scratch pizzas and is known for its unique, signature flavors and delicious combinations of pizza and classic salads with homemade dressings. SPIN! is a go-to place for eating, drinking and hanging, and it’s also a favorite for those with gluten-free diets. SPIN! serves sandwiches, wine, craft beer and gelato.
The original St. Louis Food Truck. A great fun food experience inspired us to our first fixed location on the delmar loop. Now having opened our second location in the heart of Columbia MO. Please join us for food & fun.
Delmar Loop Downtown Columbia 6665 Delmar Blvd, 63130 1020 E. Broadway, 65201 314-863-1148 573.441.TACO seoultaco.com
www.spinpizza.com for locations
Cleveland HeatH Fun Food. Happy People. Great Drinks. Come in for one of the best dinning experiences you will have, in a great environment, surrounded by happy people , awesome drink, and fun food. We hope everyone will share in our imagination and desire for creative cooking. Let’s Eat! 618.307.4830 106 North Main St., Edwardsville, IL www.clevelandheath.com
Ted drewes Please stop by either one of the Ted Drewes Frozen Custard locations to get your favorite treat. We have over 30 toppings that you can mix with Ted’s delicious vanilla frozen custard. Ted Drewes Frozen Custard “It Really is Good Guys and Gals”.
6726 Chippewa St, Saint Louis, MO 63109 314-481-2652
Salume Beddu SALUME BEDDU is an artisan company dedicated to the craft of Italian cured meats and fresh sausages. We pride ourselves on using the highest quality Midwestern heritage pork and the freshest spices in our products. Each salume is hand tied and perfectly cured to produce traditional style salumi with a New-World twist. 3467 Hampton Ave, St. Louis MO 63139 314-353-3100, SalumeBeddu.com
Chaumette Vineyards & Winery Chaumette Vineyards & Winery is the premier Midwest winery destination, located about an hour’s drive from St. Louis. Expect an extraordinary culinary experience inspired by Missouri’s finest wine portfolio, with gracious service, elegant accommodations and resort amenities. Located in the rolling hills of Ste. Genevieve, Missouri.
Chaumette Vineyards & Winery 24345 State Route WW, Ste. Genevieve, MO 63670 573-747-1000 chaumette.com
4224 S. Grand Blvd., Saint Louis, MO 63111 314-352-7376 teddrewes.com
Square One Brewery Great beer, spirits, food and a destination for all things craft in St. Louis. The restaurant serves great pub food. 13 house brewed beers on tap. The first craft distillery in Missouri serving 17 house made spirits and a great cocktail menu. The setting is a historic building with beautiful outdoor dining. This is a truly unique dining and drinking experience.
1727 Park Ave., St. Louis, Mo. 63104 1.314.231.2537 www.squareonebrewery.com
PaPPy’s smokehouse They say if you’re looking for the best restaurants in St. Louis just look where the locals eat. At Pappy’s Smokehouse, we serve the best Memphis Style BBQ right here in our midtown St. Louis restaurant, convenient to most city and county customers! 3106 Olive Street St. Louis, MO 63103 314.535.4340
www.pappyssmokehouse.com
ConfeCtioner first plaCe: KaKao ChoColate
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written by alex wilKing | PhotograPhy by teresa floyd
Christopher elbow’s career as a confectioner started when he took the reins as pastry chef at the american restaurant in Kansas City. “we would make chocolates to send out at the end of the meal as a thank you, and it became a part of my job that i really loved,” elbow says. “Customers started asking if they could buy them, and that put the idea in my head to start my own company.”
runner up: bissinger’s handCrafted ChoColatier
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first plaCe: ChristoPher elbow artisanal ChoColates runner up: andré’s Confiserie sUisse
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elbow launched Christopher Elbow Artisanal Chocolates in 2003 and quickly received national attention for his gorgeous, intricate confections – the store was even listed in Food & Wine’s round-up of best chocolate in the U.s. “we started in a 400-square-foot room above a restaurant, and i still drive by that place every day,” elbow says. “we’ve had trouble keeping up with demand from day one, and it still boggles my mind that that’s the case.”
first plaCe: asKinosie ChoColate (sPringfield, MissoUri)
Head to feastmagazine.com to learn how chocolate is made at Askinosie in the December 2014 episode of Feast TV.
runner up: the Candy faCtory (ColUMbia, MissoUri)
bread baKer
elbow’s shop offers 24 rotating varieties of chocolates in flavors that change with the seasons. in the summer months, fresh fruits are used in chocolates to make flavors like bananas foster, while in the winter, spices and herbs are used to make flavors such as rosemary-caramel. in addition to its selection of chocolates, the shop sells drinking chocolate, specialty bars and confections such as chocolate coated almonds and pecan-caramel turtles. elbow teamed up with boulevard brewing Co. to make its popular seasonal Chocolate ale, and in 2015, the company released spiced pecan turtle ice cream with häagen-dazs in grocery stores across the U.s. through it all, elbow says he’s proud that his business is rooted in Kansas City. “we owe a lot of our success to being based here,” he says.
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ConfeCtioner: Kansas City first plaCe: Christopher elbow artisanal ChoColates
first plaCe: CoMPanion
Head to feastmagazine.com to learn more about Companion’s new baking facility and
Christopher Elbow Artisanal Chocolates, 1819 McGee St., Crossroads Arts District, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.842.1300, elbowchocolates.com
bakery-café, set to open in September.
runner up: great harVest bread Co.
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pie: Kansas City first plaCe: the upper Crust
first plaCe: farM to MarKet bread Co. runner up: ferVere
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written by ettie berneKing PhotograPhy by teresa floyd
first plaCe: UPrise baKery (ColUMbia, MissoUri) runner up: sisters in thyMe (sPringfield, MissoUri)
pie first plaCe: Pie oh My! runner up: sUgarfire Pie
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first plaCe: the UPPer CrUst runner up: yoU say toMato first plaCe: Peggy Jean’s Pies (ColUMbia, MissoUri)
Head to feastmagazine.com to go behind the scenes at Peggy Jean’s Pies in the November 2014 episode of Feast TV.
runner up: rUle of Pie (MUrPhysboro, illinois)
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More than 10 years ago, a new vendor tent popped up at the overland Park farmers’ Market. it marked the public debut of The Upper Crust, a small-batch company started by sisters Jan Knobel and elaine Vanbuskirk. neither woman had culinary experience prior to launching the business, but pie baking was a tradition in their family. so with the help of their mother and family, the sisters made their hobbies into their livelihoods. “My mom and grandma are, to me, the best pie makers in the world,” Knobel says. “we knew we had the right teachers in place to get elaine and me up to speed on what it takes to make good pie.” Many of the pies are made with family recipes – the only major change is that they use butter instead of lard in the pie dough. Pie flavors range from french apple and lemon meringue to bumbleberry, a mixed-berry pie. three years ago, the sisters opened a full-service brickand-mortar store in overland Park, Kansas, just steps away from the farmers’ market where the Upper Crust first served its pie. Vanbuskirk says the bakery has been approached about launching a franchise, but the sisters take great pride in making their pies from scratch, which they fear could prove challenging with a larger operation. “we always want to keep it where it’s not mass-produced – it’s still a handmade product that’s made with good ingredients and done the way my mother would be proud of,” Knobel says. The Upper Crust, 7943 Santa Fe Dr., Overland Park, Kansas, 913.642.2999, uppercrustpiebakery.com Inspired Local Food Culture
AUGUST 2015
81
Thank you for
voting us
best BBQ
DINE IN OR CARRY OUT 3106 Olive Street St. Louis, MO 63103 pappyssmokehouse.com 314.535.4340
HOURS: Mon. – Sat. 11 am – 8 pm* Sun. 11 am – 4 pm* *May close earlier if we sell out of food.
VOTED BEST RIBS SINCE DAY ONE
Fun Food, Happy People, Great Drinks! #1Restaurant! #1 Chef! Find out why we are the Top Restaurant with the Top Chef in Feast Magazine’s Feast 50. 106 N. Main St. • Edwardsville 618.307.4830 • clevelandheath.com Mon-Fri 11:00-close, Sat 10:00-close Offering Saturday brunch • First Come - First Serve (No reservations) Open Mon - Fri starting at 11 am and Sat starting at 10 am
BREAKFAST BRUNCH LUNCH COCKTAILS
4059 BROADWAY, KANSAS CITY, MO 64111 (816)931-4401 THECORNERKC.COM
6665 Delmar BlvD | St. louiS, mo. | 314.863.1148 hours: 11am - 10pm everyday 1020 e. Broadway | columBia mo. | 573.441.taco HourS: Sun - weD 11am - 10pm tHurS - Sat 11am - 2am
6665 Delmar BlvD | St. louiS, mo. 314.925.8452 HourS: Sun, mon. weD. & tHurS. 5pm - 11pm fri. & sat. 5pm -midnight • closed tuesday
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winner of feast 50 readers choice food truck savory fast casual Best taco runner up
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feastmagazine.com
AUGUST 2015
Ice cream & custard FIrst pLace: Ted drewes runner up: ices plain & Fancy
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served at Glacé Artisan Ice Cream.
runner up: murray’s ice cream & cookies Last year, Murray’s Ice Cream & Cookies celebrated three decades of serving scoops of chocolate flake-fromage, pecan-praline and
Ice cream & custard: st. LouIs runner up: Ices pLaIn & Fancy
blueberry-cheesecake ice cream.
FIrst pLace: andy’s Frozen cusTard (springField, missouri)
wriTTen by alex wilking pHoTograpHy by JenniFer silVerberg
runner up: sparky’s Homemade ice cream (columbia, missouri)
donut shop FIrst pLace: sTrange donuTs
crask, along with ices co-owners Troika brodsky, matthew deutschmann and crask’s sister, darla crask, opened shop in st. louis’ shaw neighborhood last July. “we’re a neighborhood ice cream shop,” brodsky says. “we love that we’re seeing the same faces day-in and day-out, and we’re getting to know all of our neighbors.”
Head to feastmagazine.com to read a feature about Strange Donuts’ impressive impact on the regional culinary scene.
The shop’s name comes from a book of the same title by agnes marshall, a late 19th- and early 20th-century english culinary writer who was nicknamed “the Queen of ices.” she suggested preparing ice cream using liquid nitrogen, which is the shop’s specialty, made by blending it with an ice cream base in a stand mixer. From classic butter-pecan to vegan-friendly, soybased cherry cordial, everything is frozen-to-order right in front of the customer; clouds of smoke billow out of stand-mixer bowls as frozen treats take shape.
runner up: VincenT Van dougHnuT
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FIrst pLace: lamar’s donuTs runner up: JoHn’s space age donuTs FIrst pLace: HurTs donuT (springField, missouri)
“we’re not just making ice cream; we’re making ice cream with liquid nitrogen and blowtorches,” brodsky says. “The process itself, in addition to looking really cool, gives a unique consistency, mouthfeel and flavor.”
runner up: Harold’s dougHnuTs (columbia, missouri)
caterer
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FIrst pLace: buTler’s panTry runner up: THe arT oF enTerTaining FIrst pLace: moxie caTering runner up: lon lane’s inspired occasions FIrst pLace: THe TraVeling cHeF (springField, missouri) runner up: sara Fougere caTering (columbia, missouri)
brodsky is also executive director of the st. louis brewers guild, which has led to collaborations with local breweries 4 Hands brewing co. and schlafly beer. ices also collaborated with sump coffee in st. louis to create The back up, which pairs the shop’s nitro ice cream with sump’s coffee, plus coffee whipped cream and a dusting of coffee grounds.
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“i’ve been [making nitro ice cream] in restaurants for a long time,” says max crask, co-owner of Ices Plain & Fancy in st. louis. “a lot of restaurants do it this way because they don’t have the proper freezers, but it’s really just the best process to make it.”
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wriTTen by HeaTHer riske pHoTograpHy by cHeryl waller
after a trip to berlin in 2010, Vincent brian marsden, a self-taught baker who’s worked in a handful of restaurants in st. louis, was inspired to start an artisanal, made-from-scratch donut business. marsden quickly got to work upon his return, using a tiny stand mixer and 2.7-liter fryer in his home kitchen. He spent several years perfecting his donuts before settling on a traditional amish recipe for potato-based, yeastraised dough.
FIrst pLace: glacé arTisan ice cream
Turn to p. 18 to learn about the boozy ice cream
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donut shop: st. LouIs runner up: VIncent Van doughnut
This summer, the team at ices celebrated its first anniversary and announced plans to debut a refurbished 1964 divco milk truck (affectionately dubbed “agnes”). with agnes, brodsky hopes ices can park at events and expand its catering services. “we feel really lucky to be doing what we’re doing in st. louis,” brodsky says. “There’s so much potential, and people are really open to trying new stuff.” Ices Plain & Fancy, 2256 S. 39th St., Shaw, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.601.3604, icesplainandfancy.com
in late 2013, Vincent Van Doughnut first rolled onto the st. louis scene in the form of clyde, the iconic 1960 Ford grumman olson step van. customers soon began tracking down the food truck to get their hands on the pillowy, square-cut donuts in decadent flavors like lemon-lavender, vanilla-mascarpone with raspberry, French toast and maple-bacon. From the dough to the fillings, glazes and toppings, everything is made fresh. The quick success of Vincent Van doughnut’s mobile operation helped marsden land a spot on cooking channel’s Donut Showdown the following summer. when he received the call to compete, though, he did something a little risky – he began working on an entirely new dough. The trick paid off as it helped him win the competition, along with $10,000. bolstered by the first-place win, Vincent Van doughnut opened its first brick-and-mortar location in clayton, missouri, in march. perhaps unsurprisingly, the shop’s first few months in business were marked by nearconstant sellouts – sometimes as early as 10am. on a typical evening in clayton, it’s not uncommon to see passersby press their faces up against the window of the shop. Vincent Van doughnut might be closed for business for the night, but inside, marsden is hard at work kneading dough. “bag mix would be a lot quicker,” he says. “it isn’t horribly slow, but it takes more time to do everything from scratch.” Vincent Van Doughnut, 40 N. Central Ave., Clayton, Missouri, 314.899.9500, vincentvandoughnut.com
Coffee RoasteR: laRGe fiRst plaCe: Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co.
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Goshen Coffee Co. has used fully organic coffee beans since its founding in 2001 in edwardsville, illinois. today, the small-batch roaster’s blend, single-origin and terroir-driven secret stash lines, all sourced from global certified organic farms, can be found in 60-plus outlets in the st. louis metro area.
“We have absolute crowd-pleasers – smooth coffees you can drink any time of day, just a wonderful caramel-chocolaty cup,” says head roaster and green coffee buyer argus Keppel, referring to its blends. “But for secret stash, we’ll give you the farm name, elevation, soil, processing method – everything i use when i’m buying coffee. you get a true representation of that exact farm it came from.”
Visit feastmagazine.com to learn more about Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. in the August 2015 episode of Feast TV.
Keppel receives samples of green coffee beans from his importer, Royal Coffee, to perform blind cuppings with goshen’s three-person team. “of course we’re looking to help out organic farms, but the bottom line is that it will always be a delicious-tasting coffee,” he says. “i’m really looking for memorable coffees – where you take a sip, and it stays in your mind.”
RunneR up: Chauvin Coffee
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Coffee RoasteR: small: st. louis WRitten By Bethany ChRisto RunneR up: Goshen Coffee Co. photogRaphy By jill heupel
fiRst plaCe: the RoasteRie RunneR up: paRisi aRtisan Coffee
Roasting is done with a fluid-bed air roaster (only used by 5 percent of u.s. roasters) custom-built by goshen’s founder Matt herren. Convection heat suspends 40 pounds of beans midair and produces an extremely even roast – the green coffee beans don’t touch metal until they shoot into the cooling tray. Keppel roasts between 1,500 to 2,500 pounds of coffee per week, totaling 76,000 pounds last year.
fiRst plaCe: Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co.
“the farmers do all the hard work,” he says. “they do such a good job picking out the coffee cherries and meticulously processing them, and it’s an excellent coffee by the time it gets to the roaster. it’s literally my job to not screw that up.”
RunneR up: the RoasteRie
goshen won’t boast about its own hard work – like when the company placed third in the nation at america’s Best espresso competition last year. their team is driven by always serving good coffee to the masses and educating as many people as they can.
Coffee shop fiRst plaCe: Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co.
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Goshen Coffee Co., 110 First Ave., Edwardsville, Illinois, 618.659.0571, goshencoffee.com
RunneR up: suMp Coffee
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fiRst plaCe: thou Mayest Coffee RoasteRs
Learn how Thou Mayest co-founders are using coffee to spark conversations about connection and community at feastmagazine.com.
RunneR up: filling station
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fiRst plaCe: Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. RunneR up: the Coffee ethiC (spRingfield, MissouRi)
Coffee RoasteR: small fiRst plaCe: suMp Coffee RunneR up: goshen Coffee Co.
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fiRst plaCe: oddly CoRReCt Coffee RoasteRs RunneR up: thou Mayest Coffee RoasteRs fiRst plaCe: BRiCK & MoRtaR Coffee (spRingfield, MissouRi) RunneR up: laKota Coffee Co. (ColuMBia, MissouRi)
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Coffee RoasteR: LaRge: Kansas City fiRst PLaCe: the RoasteRie Written by Jenny Vergara | photography by Jill heupel
When Danny o’neill launched Kansas City’s The Roasterie in his brookside basement in 1993, he founded the company on three simple principles: buy the best quality coffee beans at a fair price, air-roast them with flavor in mind and get them to customers as quickly as possible. “in the early days, the biggest hurdles were simply sleep and money,” o’neill says. “i started the company with $17,000, which was gone very quickly, and there we were, working seven days a week for the first 18 months and sleeping very little.” o’neill’s ideas were ahead of the coffee curve, and he continues to make it his mission to buy the highest quality coffee beans from 31 countries around the world, directly from the farmers in the country of origin at fair prices. he and his team then carefully roast beans using an air-roasting technique, instead of traditional drumroasting. air roasting uses convection heat creating superior consistency and a smoother, more flavorful cup of coffee. Coffee-industry experts clearly agree, as nine of the roasterie’s coffees have received a ranking of 90 or higher on Coffee review, an online international coffeebuying guide.
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in the past 22 years, the roasterie has been the first Kansas City coffee company to hit many local milestones. o’neill and crew were the first to sell direct-sourced organic beans in local supermarkets. the company was the first to host classes and cuppings to educate customers. the roasterie was the first to offer its wholesale clients the opportunity to taste and create their own custom coffee blend. in 2005, the roasterie opened its first retail coffee shop and café in the brookside neighborhood, with a second location opening in leawood, Kansas, in 2010. a third café opened in the company’s existing roasting facility in october 2012, where the roasterie’s iconic DC-3 airplane symbolically took to the skies, tethered to the roof of the brand new combination roasting facility-event space-café. “We will have several big announcements in the next couple of months regarding our next endeavors,” o’neill says. “there will be a very large remodel, a huge new, fun product launch and a spectacular new business launch on the café side of our business – it’s going to be big, a real game-changer.” The Roasterie, multiple locations, 816.931.4000, theroasterie.com
Inspired Local Food Culture
august 2015
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Butcher Shop FirSt place: Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions
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when sharon fennewald was a young girl, she and her three sisters spent saturdays helping out at the family business, Swiss Meat & Sausage Co., in swiss, Missouri, wrapping livers, hearts and tongues, and wrapping and slicing a lot of bacon. the business was still young itself, and fennewald’s parents, Bill and Margie sloan, had their hands full.
in 1965, the sloans purchased a small country store from Margie’s parents and added a processing facility to the property and walk-in cooler to the store. “farmers would slaughter their beef and hogs on the farm, bring the carcasses up here and hang them in the cooler, and then dad would cut while mom would wrap,” fennewald says. four years later, business was so strong that the sloans expanded, partnering with one of those local farmers to open swiss Processing Plant and further build up the country store, selling smoked sausages and ham, bacon, deli meats, link bratwurst, jerky and more. Bill’s original Blue ribbon Brat – now labeled swiss style Bratwurst – quickly became one of the store’s best-selling products. the processing plant was state-inspected until the federal government took control of the meatinspection program, allowing swiss to sell and ship its product across the country.
Head to feastmagazine.com to learn about Chris Bolyard’s transition from full-time chef to butcher.
runner up: KenricK’s Meats & catering
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FirSt place: local Pig
today, fennewald and her sisters deana Mundwiller, Janice thomas and vicki slater manage the business, which has grown to include producing more than 65 flavors of beef, pork, bison and chicken bratwurst (flavors like chicken-lemonpepper, bacon-cheddar-potato and barbecued chicken) and about 10 flavors of cured bacon (applewood-smoked cinnamon, honey-cured and award-winning hickory-smoked, to name a few). this summer, the company celebrated another milestone with the opening of a new shipping, warehouse and freezing facility that will increase its output. “People keep coming back because it’s good, locally produced stuff like your grandma made,” fennewald says. “it’s not so mass-produced that we make 10,000 pounds a day. we still make it the old-fashioned way, but we’ve upgraded our equipment so we can make it a little faster than before to keep up with demand.”
runner up: Mcgonigle’s MarKet FirSt place: city Butcher and BarBecue (sPringfield, Missouri) runner up: swiss Meat & sausage co. (swiss, Missouri)
charcuterie Maker FirSt place: saluMe Beddu
inside the retail store, swiss also runs a small sandwich shop with a few vinyl booths and tables and chairs. what started as a couple of cold sandwiches offered to showcase its deli meats and cheeses has now grown into a full menu of customer favorites such as pit-smoked barbecued pulled pork and beef brisket sandwiches. a plate lunch is offered most days of the week – think pork chops with baked beans and german potato salad made with their mom’s recipe. sadly, Margie passed away in 1998, but Bill is still actively involved in the business. fennewald says her dad loves interacting with customers and takes great pride in carrying on the company’s tradition of warm hospitality and service – including offering customers brat samples of more than 15 varieties of slice-and-eat sausage. when groups visit the retail shop (large tour buses are common, fennewald says), Bill brings out the 30-pound, hand-crank sausage stuffer to demonstrate how the business got its start five decades ago. “dad’s motto the past several years has been ‘P.P.s.,’” fennewald says. “People, not only customers, but good people to run your company; product, because you need a good product for people to come back; and service, you need quality service to bring people back year after year.”
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Butcher Shop: Mid-MiSSouri/Southern illinoiS FirSt place: SwiSS Meat and SauSage co. written By liz Miller
Head to feastmagazine.com to learn more about the award-winning artisan cured meat products made at Salume Beddu.
Swiss Meat & Sausage Co., 2056 S. Highway 19, Swiss, Missouri, 573.486.2086, swissmeats.com
runner up: volPi foods
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charcuterie Maker: St. louiS runner up: Volpi FoodS written By Bethany christo
FirSt place: local Pig runner up: hanK charcuterie (lawrence, Kansas)
at Volpi Foods, time is relative. whether it’s the 12 months, minimum, it takes to age its prosciutto (made with the company’s 112-year-old recipe) or transporting customers back in time with a visit to its storefront on the hill, unchanged since it was built in 1902, the third-generation, family-owned st. louis business is in no rush.
FirSt place: city Butcher and BarBecue (sPringfield, Missouri) runner up: local Pig
FarMerS’ Market FirSt place: soulard farMers MarKet runner up: tower grove farMers’ MarKet
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FirSt place: city MarKet
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FirSt place: farMers MarKet of the ozarKs (sPringfield, Missouri)
runner up: overland ParK farMers’ MarKet
runner up: coluMBia farMers MarKet (coluMBia, Missouri)
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“not to fault modern technology and cooking, but our product has been around for well over 3,000 years,” says tim urban, volpi’s chief commercial officer. “these are ancient food processes we’re using.” the dried, cured meats made at the salumeria, founded by John volpi and run now by his great-niece, lorenza Pasetti, are sold in 15,000 retail outlets nationwide and have been lauded in publications including The New York Times and Cook’s Illustrated and featured on an episode of food network’s Road Tasted. Plus, in april, 16,000 starbucks locations began serving volpi pepperoni and tomato fold-overs, the first time the multibillion-dollar corporation listed a brand’s name on its menu – and starbucks came to them. volpi uses time-honored italian recipes and processes for making its salumi – the same recipes and processes John brought over from Milan, italy, in 1900, barring the addition of electricity and plumbing about 20 years into the company’s history. the low
temperatures volpi uses during fermentation and drying differentiates the company from the industry standard, and it won’t release a product until it’s 100 percent ready – sometimes genova salami takes 90 days to produce, sometimes 120 days. volpi still produces in the same three macrocategories as it has since 1902: salami, dominated by genova, cacciatore and sopressata; mixed muscle such as capicola and its cooked version, coppa; and whole muscle, including its world-famous, bone-in prosciutto (made with fresh, breedspecific pork sourced within 200 miles of the plant, just like the rest of its products), with just sea salt and thyme added before it’s aged for a year. the company has increased its product line from 30 to more than 400 products, including newer options such as guanciale, or pig cheek; culatello, the extremely difficult to produce “king of prosciutto;” as well as incorporating cheeses and other accoutrements. “the climate in st. louis is very similar to the MilanMalpensa area where John was from and where great salumi [is made],” urban says. “Plus, there was a local community to treasure the food who appreciated true artisan craftsmanship and hard work. you’ve got the terroir, the culture and community, compounded with a city that really loves food. volpi would never have succeeded anywhere else. st. louis and volpi were meant for each other.” Volpi Foods, 5250 Daggett Ave., The Hill, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.446.7950, volpifoods.com
Farmers’ market: mid-missouri/southern illinois First Place: Farmers market oF the ozarks Written by ettie berneking | Photos courtesy the missouri dePartment of tourism
since opening in 2012, the buzz around Farmers Market of the Ozarks (fmo) in springfield, missouri, has been unstoppable. even before the market opened, there was a waiting list for vendors who wanted to participate, and on opening day, there wasn’t a single parking space available in the farmers Park shopping center, the four-season pavilion in springfield where the market is housed, after more than 5,000 people showed up. three years later, thousands of produce-toting shoppers flock to the market every thursday and saturday from april to october.
It’s our favorite treat! IT REALLY IS GOOD, GUYS ...AND GALS!®
maybe it’s the lineup of live music, festivals, cooking competitions and demos that draw such huge crowds. maybe it’s the array of vendors and food trucks, or maybe it’s the sense of community and connection to food-and-drink producers. Whatever it is, the market continues to thrive. in its first year, fmo quickly realized it would have to increase the 40 vendor cap it had established; today, the market features more than 100 local producers, growers and craftsmen selling everything from ripe peaches and fresh-squeezed lemonade to new england-style lobster rolls, artisan pottery and a variety of asian produce. the selection is impressive, and shoppers can’t get enough. “We had close to 11,000 customers one day,” says Lane mcconnell, executive director of fmo. customer demand has also had an impact on the local dining scene, as shoppers are introduced to the network of farmers and producers who pepper restaurant menus in the ozarks. “We reach out to chefs to see what they want and need,” mcconnell says. “then we go back to our vendors and tell them what the restaurants and grocery stores want. We can grow all of this in the ozarks – squash blossoms, sugar snap peas, heirloom tomatoes, pink oyster mushrooms and so on.” each year, the market has grown in attendance and sales. that success helped put it in the national spotlight – it has been ranked in the top 101 farmers’ markets in the country two years in a row by The Daily Meal, which consisted of heavyweights from seattle, new york and fayetteville, arkansas. three years after fmo welcomed its first throng of vendors, the buzz has now reached a fever pitch, and it doesn’t appear to be quieting down. Farmers Market of the Ozarks, 2144 E. Republic Road, Springfield, Missouri, 417.766.8711, loveyourfarmer.com
e Ted Dr wes
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Saturday 7 am - 5:30 pm. The market is CLOSED Sunday - Tuesday.
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L I G H T I N G
Sandwich Shop
diner: KanSaS city FirSt place: town topic
written By pete Dulin
written By heather riSKe
photoGraphy By lanDon vonDerSchMiDt
when claude Sparks first opened the doors of Town Topic in 1937, hamburgers cost just 5 cents each. the original location of the tiny white diner has since shuttered, and some 13 locations have opened and closed over the years. three town topic diners survive today, including the one at 2021 Broadway in the crossroads arts District in Kansas city, which opened in 1939.
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Sandwich Shop: KanSaS city FirSt place: d’Bronx
FirSt place: BlueS city Deli
inside D’Bronx flagship shop, located at 39th and Bell streets in the westport neighborhood of Kansas city, the lower front counter is plastered with local band and event flyers. handwritten graffiti covers the worn brick walls. faded wood floors have endured the footsteps of countless customers in the past quarter-century. lines form regularly during the delicatessen and pizzeria’s lunch and dinner rushes while no-nonsense-but-friendly employees take orders and fulfill them quickly and consistently.
Head to feastmagazine.com for a profile of Blues City Deli and to learn more about owner Vince Valenza’s newest spot in St. Louis, Melo’s Pizza.
runner up: aDriana’S on the hill
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FirSt place: D’Bronx
robert and Janet Bloom opened the flagship 25 years ago. today, Don foringer owns the original D’Bronx deli as well as its sister locations in crown center, overland park, Kansas and Mission, Kansas.
runner up: cupini’S FirSt place: SuB Shop (coluMBia, MiSSouri)
“D’Bronx is authentic both in its food and in its desire to create lasting relationships with our respective Kansas city communities,” foringer says. “D’Bronx is one of the few combinations of new york-style deli and pizzeria cultures.”
runner up: SiSterS in thyMe (SprinGfielD, MiSSouri)
diner FirSt place: SouthweSt Diner
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Head to feastmagazine.com to learn about
“we use family recipes and high-quality ingredients that i hand-pick,” foringer says. “Service is all about caring for our customers in a way that recognizes everyone has a unique view of good service.”
Southwest Diner’s take on the St. Louis slinger in the September 2014 episode of Feast TV.
runner up: city Diner
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D’Bronx also specializes in new york city-style pizzas made with from-scratch marinara available by the slice or in 16- or 30-inch pies. cooks toss dough in the air to shape the crust before topping each with specialty sliced meatballs or artichokes and baking them. the popular D’Bronx Special is topped with pepperoni, italian sausage, canadian bacon, meatballs, mushrooms, black olives, onion and green bell peppers – and one huge slice, maybe two, will satisfy most appetites.
FirSt place: town topic runner up: fric & frac FirSt place: GraD School (SprinGfielD, MiSSouri) runner up: BroaDway Diner (coluMBia, MiSSouri)
artiSan Food Shop FirSt place: DiGreGorio’S MarKet runner up: larDer & cupBoarD
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FirSt place: the Better cheDDar
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the shop is best known for its popular specialty sandwiches, with more than a dozen options to choose from. fan favorites include hot pastrami on rye and the reuben, made with corned beef from Boyle’s famous corned Beef co. in Kansas city, Swiss cheese, housemade sauerkraut and russian dressing.
other must-try dishes at D’Bronx include housemade chicken noodle soup (served with or without a giant matzo ball, though you’ll want to add it) potato latkes and submarine sandwiches. Save room for a hefty wedge of cheesecake, carrot cake or a giant blackand-white cookie for dessert. D’Bronx, multiple locations, dbronxkc.com
over the past 78 years, menu prices have changed a bit – a single hamburger will run you $2.75 today – but the recipes remain the same. town topic’s burgers are classic sliders, named not for their minuscule size but rather the manner in which they’re cooked. a thin, 2-ounce patty is smashed on a flattop griddle and pressed into a bed of shredded raw onions, then served atop a steamed bun. “Dad and Grandpa really set the standard for these stores, which i try to follow to a t,” says Scott Sparks, claude’s grandson and current owner of all three town topic locations. “if i do anything right, it’s that i don’t change a thing.” lunchtime or late-night, it’s not uncommon to see a regular stop in to grab a sack of sliders, but town topic’s menu boasts all the hallmarks of a traditional greasy spoon. Breakfast is served all day, including biscuits and gravy, the “truckstop omelet,” hot cakes and more, making the 24-hour diner a classic haunt for the after-bar crowd and night-shift workers alike. the textbook definition of old-school diner, the Broadway location is a cultural relic from a bygone era. if you’re lucky enough to grab a stool – the diner seats just 11 – sidle up to the formica counter to watch as a waitress pours a thick, hand-dipped malt and the short-order cook smashes hamburgers on the battle-tested griddle. “the cool thing is having maybe a 90-year-old person sitting there with his or her son or daughter and his or her grandkids, and they’re all remembering coming in, and it keeps the whole thing going,” Sparks says. “we’ve all kind of grown up together.” unpretentious and unassuming, town topic has earned its share of recognition over the years, from Eater’s “21 essential hamburgers of america” to a visit from anthony Bourdain on his No Reservations tv show and Travel + Leisure’s america’s Best Diners. “the other day, a few veterans came in and said they hadn’t been in for 30 years, but nothing had changed,” Sparks says. “when you walk in, you really do feel like you’re stepping back to an earlier time.” Town Topic, multiple locations, towntopic.com
runner up: the SunDry Head to feastmagazine.com to learn more about the local artisan products and freshly made sandwiches, soups and hot dishes available at The Sundry.
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FirSt place: cloverS natural MarKet (coluMBia, MiSSouri) runner up: Boone olive oil co. (coluMBia, MiSSouri) Inspired Local Food Culture
AUGUST 2015
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the ritz-cArlton st. louis
Talentedmixologistscirculateamidst polishedmahoganyyettheambienceis festive,serviceattentiveandthefood delicious.TheLobbyLoungecomesalivewith JazzonProhibition-themedThursdays,Tango Sundaysandlocalmusicweekends.TheGrill offersartfulculinaryexpeditionsandsharing plateswhileTheRestaurantoffersClayton’s bestbreakfastandexpertlypreparedlunches. 100 Carondelet Plaza, St. Louis, MO 63105 314-863-6300 ritzcarlton.com/stlouis
wine dine
&
Bocci BAr
Welcome to Avenue where we are open all day - every day. We’ve taken what was best about Pomme Restaurant and Pomme Cafe & Wine Bar and have combined them in one space. Avenue offers The Apple Room for private events for 45 guests seated or 60 standing. 12 N. Meramac Ave., Clayton, MO 63105 314-727-4141 avestl.com
Our menu features small plates from Farm, Land and Sea, specially created to compliment the many wines we have to offer. Please let us help you with pairings, as we love the conversations and interactions with our customers. We pride ourselves on serving wines at the appropriate temperatures, our reds are chilled to 55 degrees and our white wines are at 35 degrees. 16 N. Central • Clayton, MO 63105 boccibar.com • 314-932-1040
the Wine MerchAnt
The Wine Merchant has offered excellent value, selection, and service to the St. Louis wine and spirits community since 1992. Now in a new location! Join us for open house tastings Fridays from 5-7 and Saturdays from 12-4. Subscribe to our emails for info on sales, tastings, and events! 7817 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton, MO 63105 314-863-6282 winemerchantltd.com
Mouth-watering steaks, sizzling crab cakes, handcrafted cocktails and velvety wine selections—do we have you hooked yet? At Ruth’s Chris, everything is prepared extraordinary because every experience is special. Give Ruth’s in Clayton the opportunity to show you how it’s done. Find Ruth’s in Clayton at Brentwood and Forsyth. 1 N Brentwood Blvd Ste 150, Clayton, MO 63105 314-783-9900 RuthsChrisStLouis.com
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We pride ourselves in creating a traditional authentic Tapas Bar atmosphere. This includes our warm decor and the traditional hanging of Serrano hams and dried bacalaos. Our service reflects a traditional tapas experience as you might find in Madrid, Barcelona or Sevilla. Tapas in Spain are almost always accompanied by wine. We offer a variety of Spanish wines by the glass or bottle, as well as our red or white sangria. Come join us soon! 34 N. Central • Clayton, MO 63105 barcelonatapas.com • 314-863-9909
in clayton
Avenue
ruth’s chris
BArcelonA
coAstAl Bistro The menu at Coastal Bistro is an exciting combination of coastal influences from low country and creole inspired items, to New England favorites, andWest Coast specialties. Escape to the Coast in Clayton – Come to Coastal and enjoy items from the raw bar, small plates, or dinner menu, Coastal is the perfect place for date night or meeting with friends. 14 N. Central • Clayton, MO 63105 coastalbistro.com • 314-932-7377
written by HeatHer riske PHotograPHy by aaron ottis
Until Cafe Berlin opened in Columbia, Missouri, in 2006, breakfastand brunch-goers in the small college town were mainly limited to greasy spoons. at its original location on the corner of Providence road and walnut street, Cafe berlin still dished out the usual breakfast suspects such as omelets, French toast and biscuits and gravy, but from the start, it made a commitment to source local, organic ingredients for its from-scratch fare. “i think the heart of what we do is still diner food, but we’re using real ingredients,” says owner eli gay.
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Cafe berlin’s eclectic vibe – local art dots the walls while mismatched mugs are filled with piping hot berlin blend coffee from Lakota Coffee Co. down the street – extends to the food menu itself. in addition to breakfast staples, you’ll find the café’s take on chilaquiles, a massive pancake burrito and its apples and sausage dish with apples, andouille sausage, garlic, red onion, cinnamon and a hint of chile powder cooked in a maple syrupbrown sugar mixture, and then served on a pancake or piece of French toast.
First place: gLobaL FooDs Market runner up: Jay’s internationaL FooD Co. First place: 888 internationaL Market runner up: HabasHi HoUse First place: seoUL orientaL Market (sPringFieLD, MissoUri) runner up: sPring’s Market (sPringFieLD, MissoUri)
Brunch
in 2009, Cafe berlin relocated to a former gas station on north 10th street about a half-mile away from its initial location, but its commitment to local and organic food wasn’t left behind. Pork and sausage come from Patchwork Family Farms, and beef is sourced from show Me Farms, both based in Columbia. ozark Mountain Creamery in Mountain grove, Missouri, provides the milk, and rice and grits come from Mckaskle Family Farm in braggadocio, Missouri. “we try to stick to our mission,” gay says. “we have a responsibility to use local ingredients whenever we can. it’s something we’ve always strived to do.”
international Market
Brunch: Mid-Missouri/southern illinois runner up: caFe Berlin
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First place: rooster runner up: brasserie First place: HaPPy giLLis CaFe & HangoUt
After a successful Kickstarter campaign, Happy
the restaurant remodeled two years ago to include a bar and a stage for live music, but it’s Cafe berlin’s whimsical, locally sourced fare that keeps college students and locals coming back each morning – no matter how long the line might be.
Gillis owners Josh and Abbey-Jo Eans will open Columbus Park Ramen Shop in the 450-squarefoot garage space behind their breakfast-andlunch restaurant in the coming months.
Cafe Berlin, 220 N. 10th St., Columbia, Missouri, 573.441.0400, cafeberlincomo.com
runner up: sUCCotasH
Fast casual: st. louis runner up: sauce on the side
mo
written by betHany CHristo
“when calzones were decided, with the budget we had and the size of space we were looking for, it all lent itself to fast casual,” says brendon Maciariello, who co-owns sauce on the side along with Dan Porzel and ryan Mangialardo, longtime friends and veterans of the bar and restaurant industries. “we found ourselves discussing a fast-casual layout before we even explicitly decided on it; it was like, ‘oh, ok, i guess this is what we’re doing.’” the success of the first location led to a second, which opened in Clayton, Missouri, last summer. in June, the flagship restaurant moved a few blocks away to a larger, 1,000-square-foot space, with more indoor and outdoor seating, a bigger kitchen and the addition of ice cream paired with its dessert calzones. the menu offers 14 mammoth, from-scratch, fresh-from-theoven calzones filled with ingredients such as figs, eggplant,
pancetta and smoked Cheddar cheese, or the option for diners to build their own. the menu has remained the same since opening, but monthly specials rotate with the seasons, such as the strike zone, filled with slices of apple bratwurst, bacon, mozzarella, green peppers, onions, Havarti cheese, giardiniera and a side of queso. “i think it has to do with quickness, and considering that each calzone is hand-made from scratch, we can usually get it done in 12 to 15 minutes,” Maciariello says. “it’s personalized; it has the familiarity of pizza but with a new twist. even three years later, we still get people who are like, ‘i’ve never had a calzone; i’ve never even heard of a calzone.’ we’re like, ‘that’s fantastic; you’re going to love what we do.’” sauce on the side makes all of its sauces in-house – pesto, barbecue ranch, salsa verde and more served, as is traditional for a calzone, on the side – plus all the dough is made the day before and prepared to order. “People definitely want the convenience, and they want it fast, but they’re really looking for quality in the end,” Maciariello says. “sauce on the side falls right on that line.” Sauce on the Side, multiple locations, sauceonthesidestl.com
runner up: CaFe berLin (CoLUMbia, MissoUri)
Fast casual
Calzones often play second fiddle to pizza, but Sauce on the Side proved that they deserve equal attention in the spotlight with the opening of its first location in 2012 in Downtown st. Louis. the lunch-and-dinner joint was ahead of its time on a couple of fronts – not only were specialty calzones not being done in st. Louis, but fast-casual concepts were just beginning to catch fire with smallbusiness owners across the country.
First place: FarMers gastroPUb (sPringFieLD, MissoUri)
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First place: seoUL taCo Head to feastmagazine.com to go behind the scenes at Seoul Taco’s new location in Columbia, Missouri, in the May 2015 episode of Feast TV.
runner up: saUCe on tHe siDe
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First place: sPin! neaPoLitan Pizza runner up: PigwiCH First place: City bUtCHer anD barbeCUe (sPringFieLD, MissoUri) runner up: Main sqUeeze (CoLUMbia, MissoUri)
Cleveland heath Fun Food. Happy People. Great Drinks. Come in for one of the best dinning experiences you will have, in a great environment, surounded by happy people , awesome drink, and fun food. We hope everyone will share in our imagination and desire for creative cooking. Let’s Eat! 106 north Main St., edwardsville, Il 62025 618-307-4830 www.clevelandheath.com
Stur
Stur is about People. People who love what they do and take their enjoyment personally. The lounge offers a sophisticated and relaxed atmosphere. It is an appealing gathering place for friends or a spontaneous get together after work. On weekends and for special events you will find live music featured in the lounge. Stur specializes in American cuisine with an emphasis on fresh ingredients, made from scratch techniques and seasonal menu changes. 4 Club Centre Ct, Edwardsville, IL 62025 618-307-9613 www.sturrestaurant.com
Dewey’s Pizza
Located in historic downtown Edwardsville, Dewey’s Pizza is an upscale pizzeria which offers unique craft beers, boutique wines, and gourmet pizzas and salads. Top-notch service and value makes Dewey’s a great spot for your next lunch outing. Stop in for dinner when you are going to the Wildey Theater, or to the “Arts in the Park”. Whether you want to dine-in or carry-out, Dewey’s Pizza in Edwardsville, is the perfect place for your next dining experience! Edwardsville has earned a spot on Family Circle’s “Best Cities for Families”, and Dewey’s carries the charm of the community with its family oriented atmosphere. 112 e Vandalia st, edwardsville, iL 618-656-2200 www.deweyspizza.com
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Teaspoons cafe
Come in and enjoy a fresh variety of nearly 50 loose leaf teas by-the-cup or by the pot, brewed just for you. Or, order one of our fine coffee, cappuccino or espresso selections. Join us for breakfast or lunch and choose from our completely made-from-scratch menu of gourmet pastries, sandwiches, wraps, soups, salads and more. 2125 state 157, edwardsville, IL 62025 618-655-9595 www.teaspoonscafe.com
GinGham Buffalo
A Home Decor Retail Store which specializes in Home Furnishings, Furniture, Lighting, Annie Sloan Chalk Paint, Lotions, Jewelry & Handbags. In addition to the products in our store we offer outside design services as the Gingham Buffalo Home Outfitters. Our services offer clients several options of Interior Design of their homes such as Home Staging, Home Re-Styling, Furniture Research, Interior Painting and Full Remodel Projects. Whether you just want advice or your whole home remodeled, we have got you covered. We have recently expanded our store to our website to offer select items via our E-commerce Store. The Gingham Buffalo is hoping to have our NEW Location open by Christmas 2015 on Main Street in Edwardsville.
6620 Center Grove Road, Edwardsville, il 62025 618-656-8700 www.ginghambuffalo.com
1818 Chophouse Extraordinary dining experience with progressively innovative cuisine. Located in Downtown Edwardsville. This Casual Yet Elegant Steakhouse Has it All! Finest House Butchered Steaks, The Freshest Seafood Around and AWESOME Happy Hour Specials Tuesday-Friday from 4:30-6:30! 210 south Buchanan street, edwardsville IL 62025 618-973-6973 www.1818Chophouse.com
Burger: Mid-Missouri/ southern illinois First Place: Booches
Burger
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Written by nancy StileS PhotograPhy by aaron ottiS
Since 1884, Booches has been a mainstay in columbia, Missouri. its current incarnation began in 2004, when longtime patrons rick robertson and charlie Kurre took over, but the famous booches burger hasn’t changed with the ownership. it also hasn’t changed since robertson himself first had one back in the 1970s. if you get it with everything, it comes with a quarter-pound beef patty, a combination of american and Swiss cheeses, mustard, ketchup, onion and pickles, served to you on wax paper. there are no crazy sauces or additions, like Sriracha aïoli or bacon jam, at booches. “We don’t have it, so you can’t really add anything,” robertson says.
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was featured on Food Network’s Meat & Potatoes.
runner uP: blanc
mo
First Place: boocheS (coluMbia, MiSSouri) runner uP: bair’S SPortS grill (MultiPle locationS)
steaKhouse
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Pizza: Kansas city First Place: sPin! neaPolitan Pizza
Written by Pete Dulin
nebraska, texas and california, with additional Kansas locations planned for topeka, Manhattan and Wichita. Popular pies at Spin include the traditional red sauce Pizza rossa and roasted garlic and olive oil-based Pizza bianca with thin-and-bubbly crusts (rustic whole-wheat and glutenfree crusts are also available). other favorites include the spinach and garlic pizza with fresh mozzarella and toasted pine nuts, as well as the tre carni pizza with a trio of roasted meatballs, italian sausage and pepperoni. Pizza toppings such as mushrooms, caramelized onions, capers, pancetta and more are coated in herbed olive oil and roasted daily in stone-hearth ovens. last year, after months of research and development, Spin added new shrimp dishes to the menu, including a calabrian shrimp formaggi appetizer and shrimp scampi pizza. “i think our appeal is that Spin’s food is special and artisan without being intimidating,” lozoff says. “our restaurants feel inviting to different kinds of people.” Spin! Neapolitan Pizza, multiple locations, 816.621.7746, spinpizza.com
First Place: tucKer’S Place runner uP: citiZen Kane’S SteaK houSe First Place: anton’S runner uP: the MaJeStic reStaurant First Place: FlaMe SteaKhouSe (SPringFielD, MiSSouri) runner uP: JiMM’S SteaKhouSe & Pub (SPringFielD, MiSSouri)
Pizza
Booches, 110 S. Ninth St., Columbia, Missouri, 573.874.9519
Since first launching, Spin has experienced incredible growth in the Kansas city area and throughout the country. it now operates 20 locations, both open and in development, in Kansas city and throughout Kansas,
First Place: WeStPort Flea MarKet bar & grill
Burger gained national acclaim in 2010 when it
“it’s very historic – it’s like a piece of americana,” robertson says. “you’re just not going to find that too many places. you just try and put out a quality product, so you get the best meat you can for the best price you can and go from there. and put a lot of love in it.”
“We’re known for our exceptional artisan food without the gourmet price, affordable premium wines and inviting atmosphere, where people of all ages feel comfortable hanging out and enjoying our hospitality,” says gail lozoff, partner at Spin.
runner uP: carl’S DriVe in
Westport Flea Market’s 10-ounce Flea Market
robertson and Kurre bought the restaurant in 2004, which attracts longtime regulars, Mizzou students and just about everyone else from near and far. the only thing robertson says has changed during his tenure is switching hamburger buns (from hostess to Sara lee) in 2012, when a nearby hostess plant shut down. robertson also hung a few flat-screen tVs near billiard and snooker tables, but for the most part, he’s happy to have preserved booches and its familiar eats and drinks.
When the first location of Spin! Neapolitan Pizza opened in overland Park, Kansas, in 2005, it introduced a different style of pizza to the Kansas city area. the restaurant earned early recognition for its modern look, feel and menu with a no. 1 ranking from Zagat in 2013 for pizza in Kansas city and an architecture award for best of Show at the Mid-america Design awards in 2009. but the restaurant’s true achievement is its pizza and other fast-casual fare, which was developed in part with Kansas city-based, James beard award-winning chef Michael Smith. today, Smith and the owners of Spin continue to collaborate on new menu items.
First Place: 5 Star burgerS
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First Place: Pi PiZZeria runner uP: Katie’S PiZZa & PaSta oSteria First Place: SPin! neaPolitan PiZZa runner uP: WalDo PiZZa First Place: ShaKeSPeare’S PiZZa (coluMbia, MiSSouri) runner uP: the big Slice (SPringFielD, MiSSouri)
Vegetarian Only First Place: LULU’S LOCAL EATERY
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Leigh Lockhart has been vegetarian for 30 years, and for the past 18, she’s been serving all-natural juices and smoothies in Columbia, Missouri, at Main Squeeze. The café got its start as a juice bar pop-up inside local Lakota Coffee Co. in 1997 and quickly gained a loyal following. Within a year, Lockhart was able to rent space two doors down from Lakota and open Main Squeeze.
runner uP: TREE HOUSE RESTAURANT
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First Place: EDEN ALLEY CAFé runner uP: CAFé GRATITUDE
runner uP: LONGBRANCH CAFé & BAKERY (CARBONDALE, ILLINOIS)
BarBecue
First Place: PAPPY’S SMOKEHOUSE
Today, menu items include the Buddha bowl filled with rice, tofu, cabbage, broccoli, carrots, scallions, sesame seeds and sprouts drizzled in sesame-ginger sauce, and the Ruby sandwich with tempeh, Swiss cheese, onion, sauerkraut, tomato, lettuce and Russian dressing on grilled rye. Juices include the Ginger Tonic (apple, celery, lemon and ginger) and Elvis Parsley (carrot, celery, spinach, parsley and beet). Lockhart sources 80 percent of Main Squeeze’s ingredients from certified organic producers and sources locally as much as possible, including fruit, vegetables and herbs from her own ½-acre garden.
Visit feastmagazine.com to go behind the scenes at Pappy’s Smokehouse in the August 2013 episode of Feast TV.
Main Squeeze, 28 S. Ninth St., Downtown, Columbia,Missouri, 573.817.5616, main-squeeze.com
runner uP: SUGARFIRE SMOKE HOUSE
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First Place: JOE’S KANSAS CITY BAR-B-qUE
Fresh Pasta: st. lOuis First Place: Pastaria
runner uP: JACK STACK BARBECUE
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First Place: CITY BUTCHER AND BBq (SPRINGFIELD, MISSOURI)
Fresh Pasta
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runner uP: KATIE’S PIzzA & PASTA OSTERIA First Place: LIDIA’S KANSAS CITY runner uP: GAROzzO’S ITALIAN RISTORANTE First Place: GILARDI’S (SPRINGFIELD, MISSOURI)
Head to feastmagazine.com to go behind the scenes at Gilardi’s in the June 2015 episode of Feast TV.
runner uP: UMBRIA RUSTIC ITALIAN (COLUMBIA, MISSOURI)
Pastaria opened in Centene Plaza in 2012 next to Niche, Craft’s acclaimed fine-dining restaurant for which he won the 2015 James Beard Award for Best Chef: Midwest. Within just a few months, menu items like Italian ramen and bucatini all’amatriciana were must-trys. Three years later, Pastaria often garners buzz for its excellent Neapolitanstyle pizza, but fresh pasta is still the real draw.
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First Place: PASTARIA
WRITTEN BY NANCY STILES PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNIFER SILvERBERG
“We’re trying to make people happy,” says Gerard Craft, chef-owner of Pastaria in Clayton, Missouri. “That’s it. That’s our goal.” The Italian restaurant is focused on fresh, handmade (and now organic) pasta. It’s been so popular that Craft is planning to open a fast-casual spin on Pastaria this fall called Porano Pasta in the Mercantile Exchange building in Downtown St. Louis. Craft first fell in love with fresh pasta in Orvieto, Italy, but he admits that as a super-picky kid, his favorite meals were rice and beans or buttered noodles with Parmigiano-Reggiano. “Still to this day, I love just perfectly cooked, salted spaghetti with just a little bit of butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano,” Craft says. “I still think that’s an amazing way to eat pasta.”
runner uP: BUCKINGHAM SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-q (COLUMBIA, MISSOURI)
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“I was super nervous; I thought people wouldn’t embrace food with tofu, especially back then,” she says. “The menu was carb-heavy in the beginning, and then as I became more educated about better food, it improved.”
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From the beginning, Lockhart wanted to add vegetarian food to the café’s lineup of drinks. She partially drew inspiration for the initial food menu from Sunshine Inn in St. Louis, a natural-foods restaurant where she landed a kitchen job in 1989. In the early days, Lockhart says food at Main Squeeze was made up of heavier fare that she describes as “vegetarian versions of things.”
First Place: MAIN SqUEEzE (COLUMBIA, MISSOURI)
Barbecue has had a big year. Visit feastmagazine.com to learn why.
Vegetarian Only: Mid-Miss Mid-MissOuri/sOuthern illinOis WRITTEN BY LIz MILLER First Place: Main squeeze PHOTOGRAPHY BY AARON OTTIS
“[Usually] you have either the restaurant that does small plates of fresh pasta, maybe creative combinations, and those cost as much as Pastaria’s dishes,” Craft says. “Or you have the big-bowl spaghetti houses, like Maggiano’s [Little Italy] or something, where it’s not fresh pasta. I think people love Pastaria because it kind of pulls from both. It takes a little from the creative small-plate restaurants and the big spaghetti houses by doing a lot of classic dishes really well and doing fresh pasta cooked to order.” You can also purchase Pastaria’s pasta at retail shops around the St. Louis area to cook at home – Craft gets that you don’t always want to go out to eat but believes that “honest food” should be readily available. “It’s not even just fresh pasta, although I love being able to give [that] in a fast-food type setting,” he says, especially regarding Porano. “It’s about honest food, and it’s really hard to find fast, honest food – fast food [where] the guys cooking it have your best interest at heart. That’s rare.” Pastaria, 7734 Forsyth Blvd, Clayton, Missouri, 314.862.6603, pastariastl.com
FrieD chicken
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Fried chicken is having a moment. Find out why at feastmagazine.com.
FirSt PLace: oLD STANDArD FrIED CHICKEN runner uP: HoDAK’S rESTAUrANT & BAr
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FirSt PLace: STroUD’S
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FirSt PLace: MASo KITCHEN BAr (SPrINGFIELD, MISSoUrI)
runner uP: ryE
runner uP: DorEEN’S rESTAUrANT (SPArTA, ILLINoIS)
Learn about how tacos are trending at feastmagazine.com.
tacoS
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Lu Lu serves more than 100 rotating dishes, including fried dumplings, steamed buns and Chinese pastries, in styles representing five Chinese provinces. In fact, the five chefs working in the restaurant’s kitchen each hail from a different province. The most popular style is from Hong Kong, but authentic dishes from Shanghai, Sichuan, Beijing and all over China are offered – something you won’t find at most dim sum restaurants in St. Louis, or anywhere else, for that matter. “It’s not your average P.F. Chang’s,” Li laughs. “It’s part of the experience to try different things. We have people who know exactly what they want, and we have people coming for the first time and trying this whole new dining experience.” Dishes are prepared in the kitchen and then brought out on steam carts and frying carts, where chefs grill and steam them in front of you. Li advises diners to start with a few of the 15 cold menu items, such as seaweed salad or chilled tofu – it’s
WrITTEN By NANCy STILES PHoToGrAPHy By EMILy SUzANNE MCDoNALD
Chinese tradition to eat these first, she says. Then you move on to the second and third courses, then perhaps dessert. The more extensive list of hot dishes includes shrimp dumplings, beef ribs and Shanghai pork dumplings, a favorite of Li’s that she calls the street-food version of Lu Lu’s juicy pork dumplings.
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“For foodies, it’s glorious, mostly because you never know what to expect,” Li says. “There are so many flavors – authentic Chinese food is very savory, but also spicy, hot and cold.” In 2015, Lu Lu began selling gluten-, dairy- and MSG-free healthy, authentic Chinese grab-and-go meals at 18 Dierbergs locations across the St. Louis area. Later this year the restaurant plans to debut a food truck and open a fast-causal version of the restaurant called Lu Lu Fresh Express. According to Li, the new spot will likely be located in Clayton, Missouri. The restaurant also plans to offer monthly guided dim sum tours in the near future for those who are interested but unfamiliar with the shared style of dining. The first pairing event was a beer brunch with Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. in July. “It’s a cool dining experience,” Li says. “Nobody comes in knowing what to expect and everyone leaves extremely full.” Lu Lu Seafood & Dim Sum, 8224 Olive Blvd., University City, Missouri, 314.997.3108, luluseafoodrestaurant.com
For extended profiles and Q&As with all the winners, visit
feastmagazine.com/feast50
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runner uP: TACo rEPUBLIC FirSt PLace: TorTILLErIA PErCHES (SPrINGFIELD, MISSoUrI) runner uP: SEoUL TACo (CoLUMBIA, MISSoUrI)
FirSt PLace: WASABI SUSHI BAr runner uP: NoBU’S JAPANESE rESTAUrANT FirSt PLace: JUN’S runner uP: FrIENDS SUSHI & BENTo PLACE FirSt PLace: HArUNo SUSHI BAr & GrILL (SPrINGFIELD, MISSoUrI) runner uP: SAKE JAPANESE BISTro AND BAr (CoLUMBIA, MISSoUrI)
Dim Sum
In Cantonese, dim sum roughly translates to “the point of the heart,” which is an apt description of the variety of shared plates and snacks you’ll find at Lu Lu Seafood & Dim Sum in University City, Missouri. Co-owner Julia Li says the term also relates to teatime, as you share and enjoy both dim sum and tea with family and friends. “Like tapas, but Chinese,” she says.
FirSt PLace: PorT FoNDA
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Dim Sum: St. LouiS FirSt PLace: Lu Lu SeaFooD & Dim Sum
FirSt PLace: MISSIoN TACo JoINT runner uP: SEoUL TACo
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FirSt PLace: LU LU SEAFooD & DIM SUM runner uP: MANDArIN HoUSE FirSt PLace: Bo LINGS runner uP: ABC CAFé
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Free $10 Gift Card With Your To-Go Order King & I is now offering a Customer Rewards program. Collect ten stamps and get a $10 gift card good for your next visit to King & I . (One stamp per Togo order) Ask for details when calling in your next To-go order. Customer rewards card also available for dine-in lunch customers. Ask your server for details. Happy Hour starts everyday at 4p.m. Come in for drink and appetizer specials. 3155 South Grand | St. Louis, MO. 63118 | 314.771.1777 | www.kingandistl.com
LET US CATER YOUR BUSINESS LUNCH! Chi Mangia Bene Vive Bene! "To Eat Well is To Live Well" Proudly Serving Authentic Italian Food in a Family Atmosphere. Lunch Pans To Go! Need to feed a crowd! Try our party pans for delicious meal for any size group! Featuring Daily Lunch & Dinner Specials. Watch For Our Healthy Lunch Specials
Giuseppe and the Pressavento Family
Reservations Recommended, Hours of Operation: Tuesday - Saturday 11am-10pm • Sunday Noon-9pm • Closed Monday
5442 Old Hwy 21• Imperial • 636.942.2405 • trattoria-giuseppe.com
SUNDAY BRUNCH AND DINNER! Sunday Brunch & Dinner: Enjoy an amazing breakfast menu with our delicious boozy breakfast cocktails & Chef Mehmet's Whole Roasted Lamb. Lunch: Tues-Fri - Dinner: Tues-Sun - Sunday Brunch Happy Hour: Tues-Fri Available for private parties and catering. Turkish Mediterranean Cuisine. Known for our Meze (small plates), Lamb Dishes, Fresh Fish and Excellent Wine Selection.
6671 Chippewa Street • St. Louis • 314.645.9919 • ayasofiacuisine.com 96
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NEWS-TALK 1150, 97.5 & 104.9 WILL BROADCAST
WATCH Co-Mo Connect TV
Broadcasting Live
August 29 & 30
from 9am to 5pm Each Day
AND
WATCH BOATS REACH 200 MPH
ON 1150 AM, 97.5 FM & 104.9 FM
This Year will Showcase More Boats From All Over the World Racing For the Title
LISTEN
ENJOY THE BIGGEST SHOOTOUT EVER! Inspired Local Food Culture
AUGUST 2015
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KEEP ON TRUCKIN’. From hearty burgers and tacos to creative cupcakes and donuts, food trucks serve up deliciously decadent summer eats on the go. This month, we invited our Instagram followers to share photos of sweet and savory bites from local food trucks by using the hashtag #feastgram. For a taste of the bizarre and indulgent donuts served from the hurts Donut Wham-bulance in Springfield, Missouri, turn to p. 79. On the same page you’ll also learn about the authentic British pasties at Springfield’s London Calling Pasty Co. truck. Then, turn to p. 83 to learn how Vincent Van Doughnut in Clayton, Missouri, transitioned from food truck to brick-and-mortar shop.
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| 1 | Drew koch @drewjkoch If these are nacho next food truck buy in Columbia, you’re missing out. #PorkNachos #Guacamole #FoodPuns #PulledPork (at Lilly’s Cantina) | 2 | J. Pollack PhotograPhy @jpollackphoto Taconstruction. #FoodTruck #STL #STLFood #FoodPhotography #Taco (at Locoz Tacoz)
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| 3 | lanmou chocolates @lanmouchocolates VIP Firey Stick. Thank you @EatTacoRepublic for the bangin’ tacos! #KansasCity #KCEats #FireyStick #Summer | 4 | aPril B. s. @ambstrange1 Chicken club and The Schnit from @WienerWagonKC. Delicious! #SausageSaturday | 5 | anna newell @urban.apron Spotted @TheSweetDivine food truck! #PeanutButterCookie #Soulard #StLouis | 6 | austin cyr @austin_cyr Logo... done! #Ahumado #KansasCity #ComingVerySoon #FoodTruck
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| 7 | organic stl @organicstl We love seeing this food truck, and the strawberry colada is one of our favorites! #OrganicSTL #Smoothie #FoodTruck #EatLocal
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| 8 | mother’s Brewing co. @mothersbrewing Thanks to @LondonCallingPastyCompany for keeping us full and happy during last week’s #FridayFlix! #FoodTrucks | 9 | giaciaoBella @giaciaobella Best dish of the night by @SouthernerSTL #ChickenAndWaffles #OnAStick #FoodTruckFrolic #STL #VisitMo #Foodie
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| 10 | Playing with fire
@pwfpizza Coppa.
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Want to see your photos in the September issue of Feast? Next month, our focus turns to grilling and barbecuing. We want to see the backyard cookouts you’re hosting and the excellent barbecue and sides you’re eating at restaurants across the region. To submit your photos for consideration, simply include the hashtag #feastgram and tag @feastmag on your Instagram photos beginning Sat., Aug. 1.
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PhOTOGRAPhy COuRTESy INSTAGRAM uSERS
#feastgram
Yep. Bet you didn’t see that one coming. Throughout our 22 years, we’ve only added one new item to our menu: tofu. Well meat lovers, now it’s your turn. Allow us to introduce you to our new chorizo: a spicy chicken and pork sausage boldly seasoned with paprika, cumin, and garlic, and perfectly charred on the grill.
Inspired Local Food Culture
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Shop Schnucks for the best locally grown produce! During peak season, we get deliveries from local farmers every day.
Š2015 Schnucks
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