July 2020 Feast Magazine by Feast Magazine

midwest

july 2020

W I N O R

Inspired Local Food Culture

l ca

How regional farmers and producers are pivoting during the pandemic

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PROMOTI ON

BLOOD With their tropical scent and sweet-tart flavor, it’s no wonder that blood oranges have made their way into everything from perfume to cocktails. Blood oranges are named for their deep ruby color, indicative of a powerful antioxidant known as anthocyanin. Antioxidants help sweep away cellular waste, which in turn can lower the risk of some cancers. Blood oranges are juicy, so they’re a natural fit for jam, salad dressings and sauces.

How to Squeeze the Most from Oranges NAVEL

SPONSORED CONTENT BY KATHERINE LEWIS

“Oranges have so many nutrients,” says Dr. Yikyung

boosts vision. Dr. Park points out that oranges also

Park, an associate professor of surgery at Siteman

contain a good amount of thiamin, folate and other

Cancer Center. “Even though the saying is ‘An apple

vitamins that keep the body functioning at its best.

a day keeps the doctor away,’ I always feel like it could also be an orange!” Oranges are famously high

Navel oranges are named for their “innies,” the belly-buttonshape growth on the end opposite of their

As for the pulp-versus-no-

stem. Navels are not particularly juicy and can

in vitamin C, an important antioxidant that can help

pulp debate, Dr. Park says,

support the immune system and clean up damage

“Orange juice with pulp will

caused by free radicals, and it plays a key role in

add more fiber, but even

producing collagen. Collagen is the body’s most

without pulp, it’s still good. I

C. These are the kinds

abundant protein, described as the glue that holds

prefer to eat the full orange

most commonly found in

tendons, muscles, bones and ligaments together. (The

rather than just drink the

word collagen is even derived from “kólla,” the Greek

juice to get the fiber and all of

word for “glue.”) Serums made with vitamin C are

the other nutrients.” Not only

frequently used in cosmetics to help stimulate collagen

does fiber aid in digestion, it

production and make the skin appear brighter.

also keeps you feeling fuller for longer and helps lower

Although carrots receive most of the press for

overall calorie intake.

be a bit bitter, but they are still fine sources of fiber, folate and vitamin

grocery stores, so if you want to try something

Dr. Yikyung Park

a little different, seek out cara cara oranges:

Washington University

They’re a mix of navel and

ScD, associate professor of surgery at Siteman Cancer Center

blood oranges and have a more complex flavor.

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

improving eyesight, oranges deserve credit too. Carotenoids give both carrots and oranges their color — and both foods contain leutin, the pigment that

in good taste PRESENTED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

Orange Chicken Wraps YIELDS | 4 SERVINGS, ABOUT 3 TO 4 WRAPS EACH

CLEMENTINE Clementines are hybrids of mandarin oranges and sweet oranges, resulting in a fruit seemingly designed for snacking. Usually seedless, clementines are smooth skinned, and they’re easy to peel and divide into segments. Top all of that off with darling nicknames — they’re marketed as Cuties, Halos and Sweeties — and it’s no wonder these oranges are so popular in the U.S. Clementines are not as juicy as some other varieties, so they’re best when split into sections and tossed into salads — or even dipped in chocolate for dessert.

Chicken:

Sauce:

1 lb ground chicken

½ cup freshly squeezed orange juice

1 Tbsp olive oil

2 Tbsp sugar

½ white onion, diced

1 Tbsp rice (or white) vinegar

1 8-oz. can whole water chestnuts, drained and finely diced

1 Tbsp low-sodium soy sauce

2 green onions, thinly sliced ¾ tsp salt and ground black pepper, to taste 1 head butter or iceberg lettuce

TANGERINE Along with clementines, tangerines are members of the mandarin orange family, and the two share

¼ tsp ginger, grated

some characteristics. They are both on the

3 cloves garlic, minced

smaller side and easily

½ tsp red chile flakes (or to taste)

divide into segments,

orange zest from 1 orange 2 Tbsp cornstarch

but tangerines have a PHOTO PROVIDED BY GETTY IMAGES

black and white sesame seeds, to garnish

| Preparation | Combine sauce ingredients and whisk until dissolved. Set aside for later. Heat medium-size skillet or wok to medium-high heat and add olive oil. Cook chicken for 4 to 5 minutes until browned. Add onion, cook for 2 to 3 minutes until translucent. Add water chestnuts, cook for another 1 or 2 minutes. Add sauce, cook until thickened. Garnish with green onion and orange zest, and serve wrapped in lettuce leaves. Nutrition Information (3 to 4 wraps): 271 calories, 11g fat, 700mg sodium, 19g carbohydrate, 1g fiber, 22g protein

rougher exterior, thicker skin (so they’re a bit harder to peel) and are brighter in color. Packed with vitamins A and C, they’ve recently enjoyed a bump in popularity for their skin-brightening properties. Check online for simple face-mask recipes made from tangerines, yogurt and honey.

/ j u ly 2 02 0

Inspired Local Food Culture /

midwest

july

2020

Volume 10 / Issue 6 Vice President of Niche Publishing, Publisher of Feast Magazine

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

EDITORIAL

sales

Editor in chief

For advertising inquiries, please contact:

Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com managing editor

sales@feastmagazine.com 314.475.1298

Rachel Huffman, rhuffman@feastmagazine.com

Special projects coordinator

assistant editor

Aubrey Byron, abyron@feastmagazine.com

Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor

FEAST TV producer: Catherine Neville

Jenny Vergara

production partner: Tybee Studios

St. Louis Contributing Editor

Mabel Suen

fact checker

Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com

Karen Parkman Proofreader

Alecia Humphreys

Distribution

Contributing Writers

Julia Calleo, Gabrielle DeMichele, Amanda Elliott, Teresa Floyd, Hilary Hedges, Rogan Howitt, Liz Miller, JC Sandt, Jenn Tosatto, Emily Wasserman, Shannon Weber

ART

To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Eric Freeman for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at efreeman@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

Art Director

/ 11 / midwest made Honey

/ 12 / how to / 14 / the mix

Avant Gardener

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com

Features

Corn dogs

Contributing Photographers

/ 15 / one on one

Brandon Alms, Chris Bauer, Jordan Bauer, Zach Bauman, Keith Borgmeyer, Julia Calleo, Judd Demaline, Teresa Floyd, Anthony Jinson, Paige McDonald, Anna Petrow, Jennifer Silverberg, Starboard & Port Creative, Kim Wade

Jenn DeRose of Known & Grown

ahead of the pack

playing the market

/ 16 / hot blocks City Market Farmers’ Market

/ 18 / mystery shopper Fennel pollen

/ 20 / healthy appetite Whole branzino

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2020 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

/ 22 / one on one

Mary Densmore and James Meinert of Bee Simple City Farm

/ 24 / sugar rush Lemon beignets

/ 26 / quick fix

Cheesy allium quiche

/ 27 / one on one on the cover The Mark and Carol Stevenson Veterans Urban Farm in Columbia, Missouri by Keith Borgmeyer table of contents David Newman holds a heritage-breed piglet at Newman Farm in south-central Missouri by Judd Demaline

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 2 0

The Blatchford family of M&T Farms

/ 28 / crash course Pickling

The industrial meat supply chain is fragile – but that’s not the only option for bringing home the bacon.

See how local farmers’ markets have adapted operations in response to the COVID-19 pandemic.

build this town Columbia Center for Urban Agriculture continues to grow, supporting Columbia residents as well as the local food system.

Historic Soulard Farmer’s Market

Farm Fresh in the City Please enter on the 7th or 9th street sides only. Social Distancing and Capacity Limitations. MaSkS are reQUIreD at the Market

730 Carroll Street • St. Louis, Missouri 63104 Wednesday 8 am - 5 pm Thursday 8 am - 5 pm Friday 7 am - 5 pm

FOOD ADVENTURE COME UP FOR A

Covid-19 restrictions keeping you healthy and safe!

while social distancing at our farm store and cafe in Weston, MO. Plenty of outdoor seating available. ORDER ONLINE WITH COUPON CODE TO GET 10% OFF!

Saturday 7 am - 5:30 pm. The market is CLOSED Sunday - Tuesday.

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HTTPS://GREENDIRTFARMCREAMERY.SQUARE.SITE

STL / j u ly 2 02 0

Letter

t can be easy for us to take overflowing grocery store shelves for granted. Until the COVID-19 pandemic, many people never really stopped to consider the food supply chain, but that’s changing.

from the

Publisher

Every time we buy food, we are voting with our dollars for whatever system produced that item. The more informed consumers are about how food gets to their plate, the better There is a huge, complicated equipped they are to In 2017, I visited Columbia Center for Urban Agriculture in Columbia, Missouri, and met with executive director Billy Polansky. It's incredible how much the organization has grown and expanded since then. industrial food supply chain make decisions that that delivers meat, dairy, will help, rather than produce and processed foods to grocery stores. As COVID-19 began to hurt, local economies, the environment and the people who grow and process spread to the workers at large meat processing plants across the country, those products. With that in mind, we are focusing our July issue on how food the weakness in our industrialized system was writ large when stores in our region is grown and distributed. In these pages, we examine the way began limiting the number of packages of meat each shopper could buy. The farmers’ markets had to adapt during the pandemic (p. 37), the impact the vulnerability caused by our reliance on just a few massive meat suppliers crisis had on small meat farmers and processors (p. 32), and we also profile an became a topic of much discussion and debate. organization in Columbia that is working to dramatically expand its impact on mid-Missouri‘s understanding of – and access to – fresh, local food (p. 40). “Buy local” is not simply a feel-good slogan. Local and regional food systems are much more stable than the multinational industrialized web of companies Until next time, that bring most of the U.S.’s food to our collective plates. By buying from local producers, dollars stay in the community, jobs are created and the food that we eat is traceable. There is transparency and accountability in a localized food system that is just not possible with an industrial food supply chain. Understanding how vulnerable our food supply is when it’s concentrated in the hands of just a few companies has made people stop and take stock of Catherine Neville what systems their dollars are supporting. publisher@feastmagazine.com

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 2 0

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/ j u ly 2 02 0

PROMOTION

ONE OF THE THINGS I CHERISH MOST ABOUT SUMMER IS TIME SPENT IN MY GARDEN.

THAI SHRIMP ZUCCHINI BOWLS

Gardening is something I have grown up with. From tending to my momâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vegetable garden and using fresh picked herbs in the kitchen to helping my grandma pull weeds from her flower beds, gardening has always been a part of my summer routine. Tips have been passed from generations on how to grow and nurture a bountiful garden. This year, I am especially grateful for my garden as it has become a peaceful place I can go to recharge and nourish my mental health.

Â˝ inch slice of fresh ginger 3 cloves garlic

1/3 cup low-sodium soy sauce 1 Tbsp honey

2 Tbsp fresh basil 2 Tbsp cilantro

1 pinch red pepper flakes 1 pound 16/20 count raw shrimp, peeled and deveined

2 scallions 2 Tbsp avocado oil

2 large zucchini, spiralized 1 lime, cut into wedges

As a full-time working mom of two little girls, my garden has become a retreat. Taking time in my day to go outside and work in the garden, even for just a few minutes, is a way I boost my mood and overall wellbeing. However, the garden serves a dual purpose as it is also a place I get to connect with my girls and pass on the traditions my mom shared with me and her mom taught her. I love being able to have them help me plant seeds in the springtime and be amazed as the summer progresses and the garden grows. To see a pea plant grow towering over them, watch a zucchini blossom from a flower and pick cherry tomatoes straight from the vine and into their mouths is a humbling experience that brings an instant smile to my face.

PREPARATION

Transforming these foods from the garden into meals really brings the experience full circle. Our garden inspires many of our meals in the summer, including the zucchini bowls featured this month. Using the barbeque pit to grill the shrimp and zucchini encapsulates the flavors of summer into this dish. The magic the garden has brought to our house is a constant reminder for me to stop and enjoy all the small moments in my life. So, whether you have a large vegetable garden or just a few small pots of herbs and flowers, I encourage you to go outside this summer and reconnect in your garden. Take time for yourself and let your garden be a reminder of the beauty and simple joys in life.

SERVES 4

3 Tbsp sesame oil, divided

In a food processor, combine fresh ginger, garlic, basil, cilantro and scallions. Pulse a few times until ingredients are minced. Scoop into a medium bowl and add 2 tablespoons sesame oil, avocado oil, soy sauce, honey and red pepper flakes. Stir until combined. Split marinade into two medium bowls adding the shrimp to one bowl and the spiralized zucchini to the other, mixing well to combine. Allow mixtures to marinade for about 30 minutes. Meanwhile prepare BBQ pit. Once heated, lightly oil a large grilling tray with remaining 1 tablespoon sesame oil. Place grilling tray over moderate heat and add marinated shrimp. Cook 1-2 minutes per side or until shrimp turns opaque in color. Remove from the grill tray and set aside. Add spiralized zucchini to the tray. Using tongs, toss zucchini allowing it to cook evenly, about 2-3 minutes. Remove from grill tray and mix with grilled shrimp. Garnish with a fresh lime wedge and cilantro.

SPONSORED CONTENT BY ALLISON PRIMO, REGISTERED DIETITIAN

%PG

feastmagazine.com j a n u a ry 2 0 1 9 feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 2 0

MIDWEST MADE / how to / THE MIX / HOT BLOCKS / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / SUGAR RUSH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Oh, Honey You can buy bottles of honey, honey sticks and honey dippers from Sunny Day Beekeeping in Richmond, Missouri, and what’s more, it sells all the supplies you need to start beekeeping at home, from tools and protective clothing to hive kits and queen bees. The hive boxes and all their trappings are built to industry standards, designed for durability and manufactured at a local shop. Sunny Day Beekeeping also provides resources and posts about classes online at sunnydaybeekeeping.com.

Farmed all over the world, honey is sold in almost every market and grocery store in the state, but if you aren’t paying attention, you might wind up buying an ultra-filtered variety riddled with artificial dyes and preservatives. One way to avoid that – aside from reading the ingredients list – is to support local beekeepers. Missouri-based beekeepers can guarantee raw, unfiltered honey and not only tell you but show you where it’s made. Whether you’re looking for a natural sweetener or a remedy for allergies, these regional producers sell honey and honey-infused products that come straight from the hive.

KC Raw Honey bees are all “rescues.” Owner Jeffrey Hoover professionally relocates honey bee swarms and hives from unwanted locations to his suburban backyard in Overland Park, which borders a 43-plus-acre conservation trust along Indian Creek where the bees can forage in an abundance of Kansas wildflowers. Pick up wildflower honey, bee pollen and, if available, honeycomb at Hoover’s house or have it shipped to your door. kcrawhoney.com

Matt Hawkins

co-owner

Como Smoke and Fire

Written by kasey carlson / photography by chris bauer

In 2009, Domenic and Nancy Giofre bought two hives from a local beekeeper – though they had little beekeeping experience and no proper attire. After four years, they had learned the necessary skills, and when their friends, Art and Vera Gelder from WalkAbout Acres, retired and stopped making their beloved honey ice cream, they decided to take on the task. Now, you can find Giofre Apiaries honey ice cream in a variety of flavors, from vanilla to salted caramel and elderberry to peanut butter-chocolate chip. thehoneyicecreampeople.com

Giofre Apiaries

“How do you know it’s pure honey if you don’t know the beekeepers?” This question is posed on the label of some products from P&D Honey Farm. The answer is, you don’t. So head to its honey shop in Fair Grove, Missouri, to pick up pure raw honey or honeycomb and meet the worker bees producing it. (Although suspended for the summer, tours of the farm will resume in the future.) Keep an eye out for the dark honey: Available in all sizes from a half-pint to a gallon jug, it has an intense honey flavor and is generally better with oatmeal and bread rather than tea. facebook.com/pdhoneyfarm

“[My wife, Christy, and I] love supporting local businesses, and what Nancy and Domenic have sells itself. The flavors [of ice cream] that they create work perfectly with that subtle hint of honey and go well with great barbecue. … Our customers rave over the variety.” / j u ly 2 02 0

MIDWEST MADE / how to / THE MIX / HOT BLOCKS / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / SUGAR RUSH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Corn dogs make me nostalgic for my childhood. Seeing the Ferris wheel go up for the annual town carnival always marked the start of summer and everything that comes with it: hours of sunshine, cotton candy, swings, raffle tickets, games and my absolute favorite treat, corn dogs. I didn’t realize it’s possible to make them at home until I grew up and learned that, really, anything is possible in the kitchen if you set your mind to it. I like to pack these corn dogs for family picnics, as they travel well, and by the time we get to our destination, they’ve cooled off enough to eat.

story, Recipe and photography by Julia Calleo, writer and recipe developer, mylavenderblues.com

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 2 0

This recipe yields 6 corn dogs.

a heavy bottom, add vegetable oil untilIn apotpotiswith ¾ of the way full. Heat oil to 365°F.

Fold wet mixture into dry mixture;  mix until just combined. (Don’t overmix; it’s OK if the mixture is a little clumpy.)

 Dip 1 floured hot dog in batter.

In a bowl, mix 1 cup yellow cornmeal, 1 cup all-purpose  flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, ¾ teaspoon baking

a separate bowl, whisk together 1 cup whole milkInand 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice; let sit,

soda, 3 tablespoons sugar, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Set aside.

10 minutes, and then whisk in 2 eggs.



Transfer batter to a tall vessel (a glass or even a vase can work) that is 2 inches taller than the hot dogs you plan to use.

hot dog directly in hot oil and fry  Placeuntilbattered golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes.

¹⁄₃ cup all-purpose flour to a shallow dish.  AddSkewer 6 hot dogs; roll each in flour and shake off any excess.

Remove corn dog from oil and lay on a paper towel  or wire rack. Repeat with remaining floured hot dogs. Serve cooled corn dogs with your favorite condiment. (Ketchup, mustard, anything goes!) / j u ly 2 02 0

MIDWEST MADE / how to / THE MIX / HOT BLOCKS / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / SUGAR RUSH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

With the heat of summer upon us, nothing says cool down like a well-made Daiquiri. A strawberry shrub adds sweet acidity to this garden-fresh cocktail, and the fruit’s tops plus cucumber contribute green vegetal notes. Boasting a blend of funky rums, it’s easy to see why this poolside sipper has been deemed a staycation in a glass. Story and recipe by Rogan Howitt, beverage director, Good Spirits & Co. in Springfield, Missouri Photography by Starboard & Port Creative

Serves 1 Strawberry Top Shrub (Yields approximately 16 oz) 1 lb strawberries with tops, washed and chopped For a different drinking experience, 1 cup sugar switch up the brands 12 oz water of white rum you use. 4 oz white wine vinegar Avant Gardener 1 oz Banks 5 Island Rum ¾ oz Duckett Blue Rum ¾ oz strawberry top shrub (recipe follows) 1 oz freshly squeezed lime juice 2 slices cucumber, cut ¼-inch thick 1 pinch salt / preparation – strawberry top shrub / In a small saucepan over medium high heat, add all ingredients; stirring constantly, bring to a simmer. Continue to simmer, stirring constantly, 10 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Once cooled, strain and bottle. Store in refrigerator for up to two weeks. / preparation – avant gardener / In a shaker tin, add all ingredients; shake until combined. Double strain liquid into a 12-ounce rocks glass with crushed or pebble ice. Garnish with cucumber peel and pickled strawberry, if desired.

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 2 0

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

with Jenn DeRose

st. louis

/ manager, Known & Grown

Stuart Farm in Gerald, Missouri, consists of pastures, native grasslands, bottomlands and woods, which are managed with the soil’s and livestock’s health in mind. The farm uses sustainable practices to humanely raise its cattle, hogs and chickens, and its products are sold at farmers’ markets in the St. Louis area. stuartfarm.com

Written by Emily Wasserman photography by jordan bauer

Jenn DeRose is passionate about local food. She has a degree in sustainability from Washington University in St. Louis, and as program manager of The Green Dining Alliance, she helped area restaurants lower their environmental impact and diverted several hundred tons of waste from landfills, among other achievements. Now the manager of Known & Grown, DeRose leads the organization's efforts to support and promote environmentally responsible farmers within 150 miles of St. Louis. In collaboration with Chris Wimmer, a farmer specialist at Known & Grown, DeRose connects with farmers to discuss and highlight their principles, practices and products.

Founded in June 2019, Known & Grown is still a new brand. What inspired its creation? It’s a program of the Missouri Coalition for the Environment – a 50-year-old advocacy organization – and the St. Louis Food Policy Coalition. The two organizations realized that there are lots of farmers in the St. Louis area going above and beyond, whether it’s avoiding synthetic chemicals or not confining their animals, and they weren’t getting the attention they deserved. [Known & Grown provides brand marketing for the farmers.] It’s a twofold approach: We promote the efforts of sustainable farmers and talk to the public about why these things are important. What is the “St. Louis foodshed,” and how does Known & Grown impact it? The foodshed is [everyone in the region who] plays a role in getting food to our plates, from growers to distributors

Located in Eolia, Missouri, HartBeet Farm grows a wide range of vegetables and herbs – from beets, carrots and kale to dill, lemongrass and marjoram – without pesticides, herbicides or synthetic fertilizers. Its wild harvests include mushrooms and berries, and it produces its own maple syrup. The family farm is also committed to growing wild flowers to enrich pollinator habitats. hartbeetfarm.com Rosy Buck Farm owners Holly Evans and Randy Buck volunteered on farms around the world before settling down in Leasburg, Missouri, to start their own. The couple grows fruits and vegetables using rigorous conservation practices such as soil testing, crop rotation and no-till farming as well as heavy mulches to encourage biodiversity in the soil and to keep weeds at bay. rosybuckfarm.com

and restaurants to eaters. We focus on farmers that are using sustainable practices within the foodshed. We acknowledge that there are farmers caught in industrial agriculture trying to find a way out – we don’t want to exclude them from the conversation. Although these industrial farms aren’t involved in the program, we provide advice and guidance for farmers looking to transition. What does “local food” mean to you? We decided to put a strict definition on what “local” means. People often use it to describe food that traveled 300 miles – sometimes more – to get to someone’s plate. We thought that was unacceptable and misleading, so we defined local food as [food] produced within 150 miles of where it’s sold. Good stewardship of the land means building up soil health and caring for animals. We’re especially concerned about the number of

factory farms cropping up. Unfortunately, that’s what a lot of farmers are being pushed to do. They say bigger is better, and it’s causing a lot of problems for the environment and public health. We want to celebrate farmers doing things that are environmentally and socially responsible. How does Known & Grown support farmers? [Chris Wimmer], our farmer specialist, has decades of experience, so he has great ideas on how to help farmers transition to sustainable practices, which can improve yields. We provide opportunities for farmers to connect with each other and share tips and best practices, and, with the help of Rae Miller, a local food coordinator, we connect farmers with restaurants and chefs to try to get [them] to source more locally. It’s been really successful. We also share policy updates at the local and federal level, [especially] during a crisis such as the

COVID-19 pandemic. On our website, you can learn about the farmers [with whom we work], how to buy their products and how to visit their land. Consumers can help build a more resilient food system one bunch of kale at a time. What does the future look like for Known & Grown? We already have 43 farms in the program … We want to expand to 80 farms in the next year. Beyond that, I think it would be amazing to have this program in every city across the country. We’ve been systematically disconnected from food to the point where we have no idea what we’re eating. There should be the equivalent [of Known & Grown] everywhere so people can know their farmers. 3115 S. Grand Blvd., Suite 650, St. Louis, Missouri, knownandgrownstl.org

To see what Known & Grown farmers offer for pickup and delivery or where to buy their products locally during the COVID-19 pandemic, visit knownandgrownstl.org. / j u ly 2 02 0

MIDWEST MADE / how to / THE MIX / HOT BLOCKS / MYSTERY SHOPPER / HEALTHY APPETITE / SUGAR RUSH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

city Market Farmers' Market kansas city

Since 1857, City Market has been a bustling hub for commerce and trade in Kansas City. Blooming into the region’s largest farmers’ market every weekend, all year, it attracts families and friends on the hunt for fresh produce, warm baked goods, brilliant flowers and more from local growers and producers. –Jenny Vergara

Sarah Darby

owner

Bloom Baking Co. 16

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 2 0

City Market

photography by anna petrow

1. Living Dirt Ranch

2. Ra Mat Dar Farm

3. Sweet Delights Bakery

Stock up for the grilling season at this stall. Debby and Ganesh Gupta, owners of Living Dirt Ranch in Smithville, Missouri, raise grass-finished beef, which means their herd – bred from Red Angus, Barzona, Hereford and South Poll – forage for their entire lives, eating nothing but grass. When they’re ready to be processed, they’re taken on a 10-minute ride to Paradise Locker Meats. At the City Market farmers’ market – on Sundays only – Living Dirt Ranch sells individual cuts as well as bulk orders of beef, from a quarter to a whole butchered cow.

Burmese couple Swa Dit and Mee Nge, owners of Ra Mat Dar Farm, learned to farm at Cultivate KC’s Juniper Gardens Training Farm; now they use leased urban lots in Northeast Kansas City as well as their own backyard to grow everything from tomatoes to alliums and radishes to arugula, which they sell at City Market. They also grow ingredients from their home country, including long beans and water spinach, which show up in dishes at their new restaurant, Sone Ze Ya.

Growing up in Czechoslovakia, Galina Sheremeta, owner of Sweet Delights Bakery, got the baking bug from her mom, who always seemed to be making bread or sweet rolls stuffed with apples or cheese. Sheremeta emigrated to the U.S. in 1988 and eventually settled in Missouri. Today, she sells her scrumptious sweets, including strawberry tartlets, walnut sandies, cream rolls, almond cake and New York-style cheesecake with raspberries, at City Market. Her selection varies, as do the smiling faces in her stall – with seven kids, four of which still live at home, Sheremeta has her own small army of happy helpers.

Pavilion 1, Stall 5, Sundays only, livingdirtranch.com

Pavilion 1, Stalls 41 & 42 and Pavilion 2, Stalls 92 & 93, Saturdays; Pavilion 2, Stalls 63 & 64, Sundays

Pavilion 3, Stall 128, Saturdays; Pavilion 3, Stall 138, Sundays

4. River’s Edge Produce

5. Great River Maple

Gary and Shelley Oberdiek started River’s Edge Produce in 2000. Alongside their children, Tarra and Zach, they run a produce farm located in the Missouri River Bottoms outside of Farley, Missouri, which was originally established in 1886. On Saturdays and Sundays, the family sells heirloom tomatoes, strawberries, watermelon, sweet corn, hot peppers and tuberoses at City Market.

On their century-old farm located in Garnavillo, Iowa, Dan and Dorinda Potter produce certified-organic maple syrup and maple cream. Pick up a bottle of the timeless pancake topping, the cinnamoninfused version or the brand’s most popular product, bourbon-aged maple syrup – which makes for an irresistible glaze on ham, fish and Brussels sprouts – at City Market.

Pavilion 2, Stalls 78-80, Saturdays; Pavilion 1, Stalls 27-28, Sundays

Pavilion 3, Stall 126, Saturday only, greatrivermaple.com

“Baking [at] City Market gives us direct access to the freshest seasonal produce around. On Saturdays, Marlin Frye of Frye Farms and his grandson, Charlie, work the produce stall right in front of our store. We make BLTs on fresh sourdough with their heirloom tomatoes and peach Bellini macarons with their perfect peaches.”

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Fennel Pollen

What Is It? Fennel pollen is made from the tiny flowers that adorn wild fennel, which grows predominately in Italy. It burst onto the U.S. cooking scene in the early 1990s courtesy of a few Italian immigrants willing to share their culinary secrets, and today wild fennel grows all over the California coast, where it’s harvested by hand. So why choose fennel pollen over the more accessible and more affordable fennel seed? If you’re asking, you’ve never experienced the pollen. Fennel seed is anise-forward, with licorice flavor dominating the profile. Fennel pollen rearranges things, bringing floral honey and citrus notes to the forefront, resulting in a sweeter, warmer profile that’s familiar yet exotic.

What Do I Do With It? Nicknamed “spice of the angels,” it’s no surprise that some people treat fennel pollen like a precious commodity. Although it’s more expensive per ounce than fennel seed or ground fennel, a little goes a (very) long way. Between that and an ultra-long shelf life, you’re free to use it anytime you want – and in a wide variety of dishes. Like the fennel you’re used to, the pollen pairs well with pork, fish, lamb, chicken, shrimp and potatoes; use it as a rub ingredient or in a marinade or glaze. It blooms beautifully in sauces, pesto and dressings, where the honey and citrus

Suitable for allergy-sufferers.

notes can dazzle without overpowering. And a pinch added to a lemon or orange cake, quick bread or batch of muffins can scoot them over to the savory side. Feeling extra? Dust the golden yellow spice over your bacon and eggs tomorrow morning to breakfast like royalty.

Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer and Recipe Developer, aperiodictableblog.com Photography by jennifer silverberg

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 2 0

Cherry-Fennel Pollen Barbecue Sauce yields 2½ cups

With all the grilling going on this month, you’ll need a lot of barbecue sauce. Store-bought sauces can be great, but it’s fun and easy to make your own custom blend, keeping your cookouts interesting. This barbecue sauce has a bold, tangy flavor, and you can try your hand at using fennel pollen without fear of ruining an entire meal. Remember: The flavor of the fennel pollen will bloom once it’s in the sauce, so taste, and taste again.

2 1 4 2 1 ¹⁄₃ 1 1½ 1 1 ½

Tbsp neutral cooking oil (grapeseed or vegetable) medium yellow onion, small dice (approximately 1 cup) cloves garlic, minced cups fresh sweet cherries, pitted cup ketchup cup apple cider vinegar Tbsp Worcestershire sauce tsp ground mustard tsp fennel pollen tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste tsp freshly ground black pepper

/ preparation / Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and garlic; cook, stirring frequently, until softened, approximately 5 minutes. Add cherries, ketchup, vinegar and Worcestershire sauce; bring to a bubble, stirring occasionally. Transfer to a blender; purée on high until smooth, approximately 30 seconds. Return to saucepan and stir in all remaining ingredients. Bring to a simmer and then reduce heat to medium low; cook until sauce has thickened, approximately 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool, 30 minutes. Transfer to glass canning jars to store.

pair with: Blue Corn Whiskey

PA I R IT!

In my opinion, you can’t have barbecue without whiskey. This particular barbecue sauce is tangy from the cherry, with floral and citrus notes from the fennel pollen – a flavor profile that calls for a sweeter corn whiskey. I recommend Wood Hat Blue Corn Whiskey. For centuries, blue corn has been lauded for its unique characteristics, and here, it provides a distinctly sweet and nutty flavor to the whiskey, which boosts the nuances of the sauce. Serve neat or on the rocks, as desired. –Jenn Tosatto woodhatspirits.com

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Branzino – also known as sea bass – is a flaky, white Mediterranean fish that pairs beautifully with flatbread, rice or a simple salad. I’m currently obsessed with this dish because it’s hearty yet light – perfect for any summertime meal. I first fell in love with this particular preparation in the Astoria neighborhood of Queens where it’s a staple of Greek restaurants, and although branzino is not always readily available in the Midwest, I have found that Fulton Fish Market (fultonfishmarket.com) is a reliable source for fish and seafood,

Whole Branzino

which you can order online for overnight delivery. It’s also easy to swap out the branzino for trout, red snapper or another similar whole fish in this recipe. Story and recipe by Amanda Elliott, chef-owner, Beet Box in Columbia, Missouri Photography by kim wade

serves 2 to 4 Charred Onions 2 Tbsp olive oil, divided 2 bunches scallions, whites trimmed off ¾ tsp salt, divided 4 cloves garlic, grated juice and zest of 1 lemon Whole Branzino 2 Tbsp canola oil 5 cloves garlic, grated ¼ tsp salt, plus more for seasoning zest of 1 lemon 2 whole branzino (approximately 1 lb each) freshly ground black pepper, to taste / preparation – charred onions / Set a large cast-iron pan over medium-high heat. Add 1 tablespoon oil and scallions; season with ¼ teaspoon salt. Char scallions on each side, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Remove from heat and let cool. In a small bowl, combine all remaining ingredients. Once scallions have cooled, roughly chop them and add to bowl; toss to combine. Reserve as topping for fish. / preparation – whole branzino / Heat oil in a cast-iron pan over medium high heat. In a small bowl, mix garlic, salt and lemon zest together until a paste forms. Rub the inside cavity of the fish with paste; season outside with salt and pepper to taste. Add fish to pan; sear each side, 8 to 10 minutes, or until fish is cooked through (165°F). Remove fish from pan and plate. Dress with charred onions and serve immediately.

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 2 0

PA I R IT!

pair with: Seyval

The Seyval from Röbller Vineyard in New Haven, Missouri, is bright and dry and won’t overpower the delicate flavor of this flaky fish. The winery’s flagship white is full of citrus notes and balanced acidity that complement the dish, and the fruit-forward flavors and crisp, refreshing finish will surely quench your thirst. –Hilary Hedges robllerwines.com

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ONE ON ONE

ONE on

st. louis

with Mary Densmore and James Meinert / co-owners, Bee Simple City Farm Why did you decide to focus on microgreens? I started looking into ways that, given my limited amount of available space, especially being in the city, I could grow for a living. The microgreens took off really quickly because, at the time, there weren’t very many people growing them, so I was able to carve out a niche for myself; at the farmers’ market, there were a lot of people that were already bringing tomatoes or lettuce or radishes. The thing about microgreens is they taste exactly like whatever the seed is, so the sunflower microgreens, for instance, are really nutty and kind of sweet like a sunflower seed. I started growing sunflower, arugula, basil and broccoli – I started with just a handful of microgreens my first year. Every year, I’ve added a few more; now I do about 30 different kinds. –Mary Densmore Why did you want to have a presence at the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market? The farmers’ market is one of the joys of this business. Mary and I love community, and we love building community and connecting with people. Some people who do farming and microgreens sell direct to distributors or direct to restaurants, and they never actually get to interact with the people who eat the food that they grow. For us, that’s really important – getting to see the people that are eating the food that we grew with our own hands. –James Meinert How do you recommend cooking with microgreens? It’s kind of a cop-out, but I always tell people, “Put them on everything!” Tacos, salads, sandwiches, spring rolls, eggs, pizza, avocado toast. They just have really great flavor; it’s a more complex flavor than adding lettuce. –M.D. Written by Heather Riske / photography by jordan bauer

On a third of an acre just a mile from downtown St. Louis, a group of farmers are working to create a more sustainable local food system. New Roots Urban Farm, a collective project, brings together local farmers who hope to make fresh food more accessible to the community by teaching people how to grow their own. On the same piece of land lies Bee Simple City Farm, where New Roots member Mary Densmore and her partner James Meinert raise bees and chickens and grow dozens of different varieties of microgreens in a small greenhouse. Although the couple, who met while volunteering for Jesuit Volunteers Corps in Nicaragua, initially planned to focus on honey, their microgreens quickly took off and are now the bread and butter of their business. The edible plants are harvested young from a range of vegetable and herb seeds, including cilantro, dill, red Russian kale and wasabi; in addition to offering a boost of flavor, each variety is rich in nutrients. Bee Simple microgreens are available at the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market, Local Harvest Grocery, Fields Foods and Fair Shares CCSA, as well as online at beesimplecityfarm.com. 22

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 2 0

How do you make such a small plot of land work for your needs? We plant really densely; in the greenhouse, we plant in horizontal racks which we then stack vertically. And just the short life span of microgreens – we can harvest them after 10 days or 2 weeks; we don’t have to wait 100 days to get a tomato. –M.D. Something that we take pride in and that we try to maintain is our ability to grow ecologically, to know that the tiny piece of land that we tend is better when we’re finished growing on it and not worse – that we’re not just extracting everything we can from it just to make money. We want it to be a mutual relationship with the land, and we’ve figured out how to do that with microgreens. –J.M.

3 microgreens for beginners

broccoli

With a milder flavor and a striking green color, broccoli microgreens are a great starting place for beginners. As an added bonus, they’re one of the most nutrientdense microgreens, chock-full of betacarotene, vitamins B and C and amino acids.

pea shoots

Not to be confused with pea sprouts, pea shoots have a delicate crunch and a sweet, earthy flavor; they’re also a great source of folic acid, vitamins A and C and protein.

sunflower

Similar to the sunflower seeds from which they’re grown, sunflower microgreens are nutrient-dense with a sweet, nutty flavor and a crunchy texture – throw a handful in a salad for an added dose of protein.

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Lemon Beignets with

Lemon Cream & Blackberry Compote Crisp and light, these beignets are the perfect pairing for summer’s sweet blackberries. Rolled in a cinnamon- and cardamomspiced sugar, they’re best served warm with an ethereal lemon cream and blackberry compote. Don’t be fooled by the bite-size portions: This dessert delivers an enormous amount of flavor. Story, recipe and photography by Teresa Floyd, Food writer and recipe developer, now-forager.com

PA I R IT! Forage for wild blackberries or gather a bushel at one of many u-pick berry farms across the state to make this recipe extra special.

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 2 0

pair with: Radler The low-ABV Big Shark Lemon Radler from Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. in St. Louis is a confection-like treat on par with these crispy beignets. The light beer blended with lemon soda rides smoothly into the fluffy pastry while its citrus nose calls out for more sweet cream. Each sip cleanses your palate of the juicy, syrupy blackberry compote, allowing aromatic cardamom to fill your senses. –JC Sandt urbanchestnut.com

yields 14 beignets Lemon Cream zest of 1 lemon, finely grated 3 Tbsp fresh lemon juice 3 Tbsp sugar 1 large egg 1 large egg yolk ¹⁄₈ tsp kosher salt 3 Tbsp unsalted butter, room temperature ½ cup heavy cream Blackberry Compote 1 cup fresh blackberries, divided 1 Tbsp sugar 1 tsp fresh lemon juice Lemon Beignets 1 cup cake flour ¾ cup sugar, divided ½ tsp baking powder ¹⁄₈ tsp baking soda ¼ tsp kosher salt zest of 1 lemon, finely grated 3 Tbsp buttermilk 1 large egg 1 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted 1 tsp fresh lemon juice ½ tsp ground cinnamon ¹⁄₈ tsp ground cardamom vegetable or canola oil, for frying / preparation – lemon cream / Set out an airtight container with a fine-mesh sieve placed on top. In a medium saucepan, bring 1 inch of water to a simmer. Meanwhile, in a small heatproof bowl, whisk together lemon zest, lemon juice, sugar, egg, yolk and salt. Set bowl in the saucepan of simmering water; whisking constantly, cook until mixture is thick enough to leave a trail across the surface without sinking, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove bowl from heat and strain lemon curd through the sieve into the container. Let cool for a few minutes and then whisk in butter until combined and smooth. Cover curd with plastic wrap, pressing it onto the surface to prevent a skin from forming, and close container. Chill in refrigerator until firmly set. Once lemon curd is set, remove from refrigerator. In a bowl, whip cream into soft peaks; fold in lemon curd. Store lemon cream in an airtight container until ready to use. / preparation – blackberry compote / In a saucepan over medium-high heat, combine ½ cup blackberries, ¼ cup water, sugar and lemon juice; cook, stirring occasionally, until blackberries begin to break down, approximately 5 minutes. Remove from heat and smash softened blackberries to release their juices. Stir in remaining blackberries. / preparation – lemon beignets / In a bowl, whisk together flour, ¼ cup sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt and lemon zest. In a separate bowl, whisk together buttermilk, egg and butter. Add buttermilk mixture to flour mixture; using a rubber spatula, mix together until just combined. Stir in lemon juice. The dough will be very soft and sticky. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and set in the freezer to chill, 1 hour. In a bowl, combine remaining sugar, cinnamon, cardamom and a pinch of salt. Set aside until ready to use. Prepare a heavy saucepan or fryer with 2½ inches of oil and heat over medium high heat to 350°F. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper and set a wire rack on top of one. Remove beignet dough from freezer. Using a tablespoon-sized cookie scoop, portion dough out onto a well-floured work surface. With floured hands, roll each piece into a ball and set on parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Place baking sheet in freezer to keep uncooked beignet dough balls chilled during frying. Fry beignets in batches of four, turning them over as they golden, 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer fried beignets to wire rack to drain, 1 minute; roll in sugar mixture. Serve while still warm with lemon cream and blackberry compote. / j u ly 2 02 0

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Cheesy Allium Quiche Inspired by Ruth Reichl’s grilled cheese sandwich, this quiche is so flavorful, you’ll want a second – or third – slice. Not just for cheese-lovers, the recipe also calls for myriad alliums, from leeks and shallots to red onion and scallions, which are still farm-fresh this time of year. Written by Gabrielle DeMichele Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

In this class, you’ll learn how to use a mandoline to slice alliums super thin – and why that’s so important for this recipe. Also, try different cheeses and taste how they come together to turn this quiche into a luscious dinner entrée.

Get Hands-On Join Schnucks Cooking School director Gay DeMichele on Zoom at 6pm on Wed., July 22 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu. For more information on everything you’ll need for the virtual class – from cookware to ingredients – contact the cooking school directly.

nourish.schnucks.com/ web-ext/cooking-school

or call 314.909.1704

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 2 0

serves 4 to 6 1 3 1 4 ¾ 4 6 4 ½ 12 1 1 6 1 1½ ½

store-bought pastry crust Tbsp softened butter, divided small red onion, thinly sliced leeks, white parts only, thoroughly washed and thinly sliced tsp kosher salt, divided medium shallots, peeled and thinly sliced scallions, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced cloves garlic, minced lb sharp white Cheddar, sliced slices bacon, fried crisp and crumbled cup grated extra-sharp Cheddar, divided cup grated Gruyère, divided eggs tsp Dijon mustard cups cream tsp freshly ground black pepper, divided

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 350°F. Fill a tart pan or pie plate with 2-inch sides with crust. Dock

crust by pricking it with a fork; fold over the top with a high crimp to help hold in filling. Brush 1 tablespoon butter over entire crust. Set in refrigerator while you make the filling. In a large skillet over medium heat, add remaining butter. When it starts to bubble, add onion, leeks and a pinch of salt; cook, approximately 2 minutes, stirring to break up leeks. Add shallots and another pinch of salt; cook, 2 to 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add scallions and garlic; cook, 1 to 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Remove crust from refrigerator. Fill with white Cheddar slices and then bacon and half the grated cheeses. Add sautéed alliums; top with remaining cheese.

In a bowl, whisk eggs, mustard and cream together with remaining salt and pepper. Place tart pan on a rimmed baking sheet. Carefully pour egg mixture over contents of crust. Gently slide baking sheet into oven; bake, 1 hour, turning after 30 minutes. The quiche is done when a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Remove from oven and set tart pan on wire rack to cool, 20 minutes. Serve with greens.

MAKE THE MEAL • Spring Greens Salad • Cheesy Allium Quiche • Marinated Tomato Salad • Candied Bacon • Pineapple Upside-Down Cake

ONE ON ONE /

Owensville, Mo

with Tom, Martha & Ben Blatchford

ONE on

What inspired you to buy the farm? We moved onto the farm in 2011 and opened the bed-andbreakfast in 2013, but I’m still a nurse anesthetist. –Martha Blatchford I’m also a nurse, but [before we moved here], I was running a business of physician practices out of New York. –Tom Blatchford He always wanted to be a farmer, however, and he always wanted Jersey cows. His first cow was named Miss Glory. –M.B. [Martha] just gave her to me because she thought it would ruin me and I’d never want a cow again – it just made it worse. Glory was funny; she’s the cow that has probably been the most connected to me. When other people would try to milk her, they had to wear my coat because she didn’t like to be milked by anybody other than me. When our son was born, Martha got sick, and I still had to milk cows twice a day, so Ben was in a backpack – two days old, three days old – and we were handmilking cows together. He never had a chance; he was bound to be a farmer. –T.B. What can guests expect from a stay at the farm? Milking the cows and feeding the calves is part of the experience. –M.B. It’s free labor. –T.B. Yeah, sometimes we call them our victims. The walk down to the creek is also nice, and the kids love to chase the cats. A big part of it is just getting out and being a kid – they don’t always get to roam free like that where they’re from. –M.B. My favorite review is our worst review. The guy wrote something like “too far away” – um, that’s the point.

Written by Rachel Huffman / photography by anthony jinson

M&T Farms in Owensville, Missouri, is home to Cool Cow Cheese and The Brinkmann Farmstead Bed and Breakfast. As owners of the working farm and five-room B&B, Tom and Martha Blatchford take pride in giving guests a true taste of country life, while their son, Ben, makes sure everyone who visits gets their fill of cheese produced from the farm’s herd of 40 pure-bred Jersey cows. Each of the “working girls,” as Tom calls them, is named based on her personality and individual character traits; there’s Queenie, Dawdle, Kickin’ Kate – “she likes to shake your hand,” says Tom with a laugh – and Elizabeth, whose lineage can be traced to Queen Elizabeth II’s royal herd that’s bred in the Channel Islands, to name a few. They produce some of the richest milk in the world, which gives Cool Cow Cheese an irresistibly buttery note.

must-try cheeses

from

cool cow cheese

And then, there wasn’t anything for his son to do, except his son was happy playing in the dirt and messing with the cats. There was a rooster that woke him up – yep, it’s a farm. The cow had a bell on it – you go look for the cows in the dark without a cowbell. It goes back to the fact that we’re not the Disney version of a farm; we’re a real working farm, and we want people to see, smell and feel everything that goes along with that. To me, that’s what agrotourism is all about: This is what [farmers and ranchers] do and this is how it gets done. Especially now, people really want to know where their food comes from. –T.B. Tell us about Cool Cow Cheese. We brine all of our cheeses, so we don’t add salt to them. Because the cheese is made with such rich milk, the fat content changes that salt requirement, so we let

owners, M&T Farms

the fat and the brine talk and decide how much salt goes in – that way we avoid any arguments between Mrs. I want no salt and me, I want tons of salt. The varieties in the cheese cave get aged differently, from high moisture on the bottom to low moisture on the top and warm on one end to colder on the other. –T.B. The guests aren’t allowed in the cheese cave, but they can peek through the windows and ask us any questions they have about the cheese-making process. –M.B. There are eight steps, and if you vary some portions of those eight steps, you come up with 3,000 different kinds of cheese. As a cheesemaker, you have to follow your own taste buds. Now, Ben and I have different taste buds; I’m on the funky cheese side, and he’s not. I went to artisan school [in Vermont], and Ben went to Penn State University. –T.B. My school focused a lot more on manufacturing and perfecting the process while his was all about “the art.” –Ben Blatchford My final was figuring out the pH of glasses of milk; his final was getting the cheese made. But that’s why it’s fun to have both of us here. Together, we do things with standard cheese that a lot of cheesemakers don’t do. Missouri is the Wild West of cheesemaking because there are no definitions, as opposed to Wisconsin, which has a definition [of each style of cheese]. We get to make it up as we go. –T.B. It’s really nice because we get to make cheeses that don’t have certain things like preservatives; I can leave out ingredients just because I want to or because I don’t like them, but in a different state, we’d have to put them in to call it that type of cheese. –B.B. How are you distributing your cheeses during the COVID-19 pandemic? All of our cheese is available online. –M.B. And the B&B is still open. I think people still want to escape the city. You don’t have to get on an airplane, but getting in the car with your family is a whole different conversation. I think this is gonna be the year of staycations, the year to stay local and try to do something in your state that you haven’t done before. I’m willing to bet a lot of people haven’t gone to a cheese shop at a farm and milked cows. … Now, more than ever, you should feel comfortable about where you’re spending your money. Coming here, you can see who you’re supporting. –T.B. coolcowcheese.com

Only produced in spring – when it tastes good, says Tom –

Made to stand up to a bratwurst and beer, the Jersey Jack

The Gouda – famous for its creamy, full

and available until it sells out, Havarti is the farm’s most

won Best in Class at the Missouri State Fair in 2019. While

flavor – is Tom’s favorite, especially if it’s

popular cheese. The native grass overseeded with clover

most people are familiar with Monterey Jack-style cheese,

smoked. It comes in different varieties,

that the cows graze on in the spring gives their milk (and

it’s usually fat-controlled cheese, but this one isn’t – at

including young, aged and smoked red

the cheese) a sweeter flavor. “It just doesn’t taste right on

M&T Farms, they work with what the cows give them. They

pepper, and even though they keep playing

hay,” explains Ben. The artist in Tom likes the natural rind,

also produce red pepper Jersey Jack and garlic Jersey Jack.

with the flavor, Tom says he never wants to

but Ben’s experimenting with an all-soft Havarti as well.

“Garlic is a food group in our family,” says Martha.

lose the essence of that basic Gouda flavor. / j u ly 2 02 0

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Pickled to

Perfection

Possibilities There’s a whole world of vegetables, fruits and other ingredients waiting to surprise you with their pickled flavor, texture and applications.

Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer and Recipe Developer,

Vegetables

Asparagus Beets Cabbage Carrots Cauliflower Celery Chile peppers

Corn Cucumbers Fennel bulbs Mushrooms Pumpkin Red onion Squash

Winning Combinations Singular pickles are great, but a pickle mélange is also a welcome addition to the table. Consider giardiniera, for instance: The Italian relish of pickled vegetables is packed with cauliflower, bell peppers, celery, carrots, onion and garlic. You can also combine berries and cherries, or mix up your corn and

aperiodictableblog.com Photography by jennifer silverberg

Pickles date as far back as 2030 B.C., when cucumbers from their native India were pickled in the Tigris Valley, and throughout history, pickling became necessary in order to preserve fresh food for a long period of time. Don’t get stuck on the cucumber variety, though; pickling everything from fruits and vegetables to eggs and walnuts at home is easier now than ever before.

Fruits

beans. If the flavor profiles align in

Grapes Apricots Lemons Avocados Limes Blueberries Plums Cranberries Strawberries Oranges Watermelon rind Cherry tomatoes

your head, you’re on the right track.

Miscellaneous

Eggs Garlic Ginger Mustard seed

Pigs feet Sausage Shrimp Walnuts

peaches cherries bell peppers

Prep 28

Pickling is a time-tested technique that invites endless experimentation with flavor combinations. It’s easy to overthink it, but all you really need to know is:

vinegar + water + sugar + salt = magic. Since guidelines bolster confidence, commit these to memory:

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 2 0

Vinegar. Always use the “plain Janes” – white vinegar, rice vinegar, white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar. Concentrated balsamic vinegars are a big no here; save them for dressing and drizzling.

Water. In order to balance the astringency of the mixture, water is a must. A standard 1:1 ratio of vinegar to water works, as does a 2:1 ratio of vinegar to water.

Pickled Corn Yields 2 12-oz canning jars 1½ ¾ 3 1 4 1 6 to 8

cups white vinegar cup cold water Tbsp granulated sugar Tbsp kosher salt ears fresh sweet corn, stripped from cob with sharp knife large (or 2 small) jalapeño peppers, seeded and sliced in thin rings sprigs fresh thyme

green beans

3. Protection Quick pickling (a.k.a. refrigerator pickles, a.k.a. quickles) has become a favorite method of pickling in recent years because it’s fast, easy and far less intimidating than going through the entire canning process. Refrigerator pickles are ready to eat in a few hours, chilled and crisp, and they tend to keep their snap more than canned pickles because there’s less heat applied (only one dousing of hot vinegar brine versus a prolonged boil to properly seal canning jars during the traditional process).

/ preparation / In a medium saucepan, whisk together vinegar, water, sugar and salt until solids have dissolved. Over medium high heat, bring mixture to a boil. Meanwhile, evenly divide corn, jalapeño rings and thyme sprigs between two 12-ounce canning jars, layering to distribute. When liquid has come to a boil, remove from heat and carefully pour over vegetables into jars (liquid should just cover the top of the vegetables); discard leftover liquid. Gently roll jars between your hands to settle ingredients and then seal with lids. Let cool to room temperature; store in refrigerator.

I’m telling you, pickled corn is going to be your new favorite summer snack. Eat it right out of the jar or throw it in anything from salads to ramen to quesadillas for added zing.

With quick pickling, there’s no special equipment required, no huge batches, no risk of sending anyone to the hospital because your sealing skills weren’t on point. The best thing? The pickles last for a tidy amount of time in the refrigerator.

red onion Sugar. A few tablespoons of white sugar or cane sugar balance the pucker of the vinegar and assist in preserving your bounty. For every cup of liquid, 1 to 2 tablespoons of sugar should do the trick; consider what you’re pickling to help determine the exact quantity.

Salt. Kosher salt is perfect for pickling. For savory pickles, aim for 2 to 3 teaspoons per cup of liquid. For sweet pickles such as berries and other fruit, use a little less. It’s all about the flavor: Think about what you’re going for and how you want to get there.

Flavor boosts. Fresh dill, sprigs of thyme, rosemary or oregano, cilantro leaves, allspice berries, whole cloves, cinnamon sticks, chile flakes, garlic cloves, peppercorns and mustard, cumin or fennel seeds are all solid additions to your pickles. Fresh herbs are always better than dried, and whole spices are a must – never use ground.

Always store your pickles in canning jars; vinegar is acid, and acid won’t react with glass like it will with metal or plastic. Keep the brine just above the soonto-be pickles and a good ¾ inch below the top of the jar; seal the jars tightly with canning lids and store your pickles in the refrigerator. They will last for at least 1 to 2 months in the refrigerator, depending on the pickle. If they start to taste “off,” however, trust your instincts and show those pickles the door. / j u ly 2 02 0

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Ready to grill, homemade deli meats, specialty steaks, prepared food, gift packages, wholesale meats & fundraisers. Head to our website to plan your next shopping trip to Kenrick’s Meats.

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feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 2 0

Cooking with Joe Tender Baby Back Ribs Ingredients: • 1 rack of baby back ribs from Kenrick’s. Ask the butcher to take skin off the back of the ribs. • 1/2 cup brown sugar • 2 tablespoons Hungarian paprika • 1 tablespoon chili powder • 1 teaspoon seasoned salt • 1 teaspoon black pepper • 1 teaspoon onion powder • 1 tablespoon garlic powder Directions: 1. Mix the dry ingredients together to form a rub. 2. Apply the rub to the ribs and let them stay overnight in the refrigerator. 3. Grill the ribs on indirect heat for about an hour or until the temperature reaches 155 degrees F. 4. Remove the ribs from the grill and drizzle your favorite barbecue sauce over the top of them. 5. Wrap the ribs individually in aluminum foil and put in oven at 225 to 250 degrees F for another 45 minutes until the meat tenderizes in the oven and comes right off of the bone.

/ j u ly 2 02 0

The COVID-19 pandemic has upended the industrial meat-processing industry – but that’s not the only option for bringing home the bacon. Written by Liz Miller / Photography by Judd Demaline

After standing in line for two hours, Dave Blum was growing concerned.

of farmers in limbo. Unable to sell their livestock to industrial meat processors such as Smithfield Foods and Cargill Meat Solutions, some industrial farmers scrambled

Earlier that day, he’d made the hour-and-a-half

to book dates with small- and medium-sized

drive from his farm, Such and Such, in De Soto,

processing plants, including Wenneman.

Missouri, to Wenneman Meat Co. in St. Libory, Illinois, to have two of his hogs slaughtered.

Just as Blum and Sij were pondering the

As usual, Blum arrived early to snag a spot in

possible ripple effect of COVID-19 on their

line, where he expected to wait briefly before

livelihood, so were Brad Schmitz and Paul

bringing in the two Iowa Swabian-Hall swine,

Otten, co-owners of Wenneman. Spring is

a breed famous for its dark, juicy meat. Yet

typically a slower season at the facility,

when Blum pulled up, he was surprised to see

with business peaking in the summer and

the number of farmers already in line – some

then again during the winter holidays. As

of them, he’d soon learn, with as many as 14

Wenneman struggled to keep up with phone

pigs in their trailers. Blum called his partner,

calls in mid-March, it was clear to the pair

Autumn Sij, to say he wasn’t sure if the facility

that business was anything but usual.

would be able to process their hogs that day. “Before we knew it, wham, we just got hit It was early May, more than eight weeks since

in the face, and it’s never let up since,” says

the first case of COVID-19 was confirmed in

Schmitz. “It was just a sucker punch, and there

the St. Louis area, and Blum and Sij were still

is no end in sight. Every slaughter plant around

trying to fully grasp what effect it would have

here is in the same situation.”

on their business. In the eight years since opening Such and Such Farm, they’d never

This, in turn, created a bottleneck for small

experienced anything quite like this.

farmers who rely on regional plants to process their meat. In the end, Schmitz and his team

In fact, Wenneman – and other small- and

ensured that Blum’s hogs made it into the

medium-sized regional processors like it – had

facility that day, and in the weeks since, Blum

been overwhelmed with similar scenes for

says Schmitz and Otten have gone to great

weeks. In March and April, as news broke that

lengths to keep processing Such and Such hogs.

large industrial meat-processing facilities across the U.S. were becoming hotspots for

Schmitz says it’s been a challenge to balance

COVID-19 outbreaks among workers, many of

the rush of new business with the plant’s

those plants announced temporary closures

already steady schedule, but for farmers like

or output reductions. By the end of April,

Blum and Sij, striking that balance is critical.

115 processing facilities in 19 states across the U.S. had reported COVID-19 outbreaks,

Blum and Sij also work with Trenton

totaling approximately 4,913 infected workers

Processing Center in Trenton, Illinois, to

and 20 deaths, according to the Centers for

process their hogs. Blum says the company

Disease Control and Prevention.

has been helping him and Sij trade processing dates with other farmers when the

This caused an immediate domino effect in

opportunities arise. “Now we’ll be able to

the supply chain, leaving an untold number

have some retail cuts this summer,” he adds.

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 2 0

PICTURED: Paradise Locker Meats; Newman Farm heritage-breed hogs; the meat locker at Bolyard's Meat & Provisions; dry-aged center-cut pork chops from Paradise Locker Meats

The clamor for processing dates at small- and medium-

Kansas City and Chicago saw tremendous growth in industrial

sized plants has yet to subside and has forced two largely

meat processing, and as more ice-cooled railroad cars traveled

separate food supply chains – the multinational, industrial

across the country, the industry slowly saw more consolidation.

food system and the local food system – to intersect in new and unprecedented ways. It’s also created concerns across

“Because today’s system is so concentrated – and slaughter

the U.S. about possible meat shortages in grocery stores,

and processing is done in fewer, larger plants – the pandemic

which typically purchase those products from meat-packing

we’re facing has overwhelmed this supply chain,” wrote

companies that rely on industrial-scale farms.

Grandin in a story published by Forbes in early May. “There is an old saying, ‘Do not put all of your eggs in one basket.’ When

As beef, pork and chicken slowly became harder to procure

a supply chain becomes more concentrated, there is greater

from industrial processors, U.S. multinational chains such

loss of supply when a single plant is closed.”

as Costco and Walmart faced the same dilemma as regional grocery chains. In April and May, stores big and small began

In the piece, Grandin acknowledged that the industrial

limiting the sales of certain meat products, with bacon and

processing industry has long measured its success against

ground beef two early examples.

cost efficiency – for the companies that operate plants as well as the customers who buy meat – but that this push for

Bill Head, the vice president of meat and seafood for

efficiency has also embedded fragility into the system. “The

St. Louis-based supermarket chain Schnucks, says his

downside is the fragility of the supply chains, as COVID-19

procurement team has been working tirelessly to ensure that

proves,” wrote Grandin. “This pandemic is going to be a wake-

Schnucks customers have consistent access to quality meat

up call and I expect many to become a lot more interested in

and seafood, but the impact that COVID-19 has had on the

more distributed local supply chains.”

industrial meat-processing industry has changed everything. Schmitz says Wenneman is certainly feeling that increased “I have been in the industry for 35 years – I’m a third-

interest – and revenue. That wasn’t the case at the very

generation butcher, and meat and seafood is all I’ve ever done

beginning of the pandemic, when many restaurants were

in my career,” says Head. “The reason I tell you that is, there

forced to temporarily close or reduce service, but what

has not been anything in my career that would have prepared

business Wenneman lost from those wholesale commercial

me or the industry for anything like this.”

clients has been more than recouped in wholesale retail clients, says Schmitz. In addition to a wave of new processing business, Wenneman’s on-site retail shop has seen a 400 percent increase in sales

“Big is not bad, it is fragile.”

compared to this time last year. Almost all of the meat sold in the shop is processed and butchered in the plant in

In just seven words, livestock advocate and industry consultant

St. Libory, a common feature of small- and medium-sized

Temple Grandin captures the fulcrum of the crisis within the

meat processors. Cured meat such as pork bacon is smoked

industrial meat-processing industry. Over decades, industrial

in-house – and, yes, it’s still in stock at Wenneman despite

meat processing has evolved in tandem with the industrial

shortages in grocery stores.

farming industry – and both are bigger than ever, in the U.S. and across the globe. In the 1970s, early in Grandin’s career,

Pork bacon is still in stock at the Paradise Locker Meats retail

she recalls how smaller plants would process 500 to 1,000

store in Trimble, Missouri, too. Located approximately 30

cattle per day. Today, industrial plants can slaughter up to

minutes north of Kansas City, Paradise Locker is also a family-

6,000 cattle in one day, while a large industrial pork-processing

run operation. Purchased by Mario and Teresa Fantasma in 1995,

facility can slaughter as many as 20,000 pigs per day. By

the processing plant has always practiced humane slaughter and

comparison, during a normal month, Wenneman processes 55

works with small farms across the region, many of them raising

cows a day, two-and-a-half days a week.

heritage-breed animals, to provide high-quality meat locally.

Located in a town of approximately 600 people, Wenneman

Plant manager Louis Fantasma, one of Mario and Teresa’s sons,

is among the last of a dying breed. The company has been

says that as a small-sized meat-processing facility, Paradise

operated by three generations of the same family for 93

Locker can prioritize its product offerings to adjust to shifting

years: Schmitz’s great-grandfather, John Wenneman, bought

consumer demand. “We’ve been making a lot of bacon around

the business from George Wessel in 1927. Small processing

here,” says Fantasma with a laugh. “Different companies are

facilities and butcher shops such as Wenneman, which served

going to prioritize [production] based on what sells. In our

their immediate communities, were still common back then,

minds, bacon is a staple, so we’ve made sure we’ve kept stock

although that had been changing for decades.

of it – in fact, we’ve taken on new customers with lots and lots of bacon.”

The roots of the modern meat-processing industry stretch back to the American Civil War and Reconstruction era, when U.S.

Like Wenneman, Paradise Locker has experienced a dip in

Army contracts allowed for larger, more centralized

its restaurant and wholesale accounts yet a surge in revenue

meat-packing facilities to open. Cattle stockyard towns such as

through its online retail sales and increased processing / j u ly 2 02 0

business from farmers. Fantasma is proud that Paradise Locker has been able to supply so

Back at Such and Such, Blum and Sij are prepared to continue rotating their hogs from

many customers with fresh meat throughout the pandemic, which in turn, helps local farmers.

pasture to pasture, if necessary. “We can just move them to another pasture because

“Where we come in – and I just don’t know that there’s somebody else who’s supporting these

they grow a lot slower,” says Blum. “I always joke with people that regular pork is like a

farms on a level that we are – is with the distribution that we have,” he explains. “We’re also

Honda Civic. There’s nothing wrong with a Honda Civic – it’s a great utility car – but we

helping stop the spread of this thing, and I really believe that we were called to do that. For

don’t raise Honda Civics; we raise Cadillacs, and they’re slower and bigger and more

every package that’s sold over the internet, that’s one less thing that somebody has to go out

expensive. It’s a different type of thing … we have a lot more cushion than someone

and get. And I really feel like us in our smaller [food] system can help with that.”

who sells 2,000 pigs a week.” Such and Such is a diversified farm, which means in addition to raising hogs, it has other

The types, or breeds, of livestock being raised on farms has also shaped some of the recent national conversation about meat shortages in the U.S.

revenue streams: In this case, Blum and Sij also grow vegetables and raise egglaying ducks and chickens as well as goats used to produce milk. With usually no more than two hogs processed per week, pork is only one portion of the overall business. “We’re not totally invested in meat,” says

Heritage breeds of livestock

Blum. “It’s a sizable chunk of

are those that were common

our income, but if we weren’t

before the rise of industrialized

able to sell any more pigs this

agriculture; heritage-breed

year, for whatever reason, that

hogs, for example, include

wouldn’t tank our business.”

Red Wattle, Berkshire and the Iowa Swabian-Hall swine that

For some small farmers,

Blum raises at Such and Such.

though, selling pigs is their

These animals are typically

entire business, and the impact

raised on pasture on small- and

of COVID-19 on the meat

medium-sized farms – they

industry has stretched them to

are not the hogs processed in

their limits. Faced with these

industrial facilities.

new challenges, some farmers have completely refocused

In the years after World War

their business models in order

II, as industrial farming slowly

to survive – and so far, it seems

expanded across the U.S. (and

to be working.

then the world), livestock was selectively bred to focus on feed conversion rate rather than flavor and quality of life. “That’s led to breeds of pork and poultry, specifically, that dominate the entire food system, that have very low immune systems, that grow

PICTURED CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: David Newman raises heritage-breed hogs in south-central Missouri; the hogs are processed locally at Paradise Locker; the meat is sold at St. Louis butchery Bolyard's Meat & Provisions; Chris Bolyard

During the second week of March, the bottom dropped out. David Newman was floored.

really quickly, and if you had to, for example, shut a plant down for two weeks, those animals can’t survive for that

In just 48 hours, his family farm in south-central Missouri lost 100 percent of its restaurant

time period,” explained Matthew Wadiak, one of the founders of Blue Apron who now

business. Newman had worked with some of the same restaurant owners for 15 years and

runs the vertically integrated chicken company Cooks Venture, in the May 8 episode

was shell-shocked by how thoroughly and immediately COVID-19 had devastated the entire

of the Eater podcast.

restaurant industry. “If you would’ve told me 60 or 70 days ago, ‘Hey, 30 days from now, every restaurant in America will be closed, every student in America will be home, no schools will

These industrial farming practices are some of the very reasons that farmers panicked

be open, no businesses will be open and you will be confined by state order,’ I would have said,

when COVID-19 outbreaks temporarily closed processing plants. In the days and weeks

‘Sure, and unicorns are real.’ But here we were: In 48 hours, we lost all of our accounts.”

after industrial processing plants announced temporary closures, millions of pigs, chickens

and cattle were euthanized across the country. “Whereas if it was a healthier breed of

Newman, who also serves as president of the National Pork Board and as an associate

livestock, you could close the plant, the animals would be just fine [and] you wouldn’t

professor in animal science at Arkansas State University, didn’t have time to let the gravity

have to euthanize them,” continued Wadiak. “You could ramp the plant back up and slow

of the situation sink in. If he didn’t act quickly, he worried that his family farm, forged by the

down production a little bit.”

work of two generations, wouldn’t survive.

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 2 0

“

With the large-scale factory farms, there are so many parts to the whole equation ... The benefit for us is there are three sets of hands: the farmer, the processor and us. -Chris Bolyard, Bolyard's Meat & Provisions

”

“One thing about being a farmer is you learn how to be dynamic,” says Newman. “It’s part of

Just as Schmitz, Fantasma and Newman have seen

farming. It’s, ‘How can I make this work with the tools I have available to me?’ So we started

retail sales spike, so have the local butcher shops

switching gears immediately. We started changing everything into boosting our online sales,

and meat markets that buy meat from regional farms.

focusing on contacting customers using social media and digital advertising. We started

At Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions in Maplewood, Missouri, business has been so intense in

these grab-and-go boxes and meat bundles that change weekly.” Instead of shipping the

recent months that owner Chris Bolyard had to install a second phone line and introduce

meat bundles, the Newmans and their team have been delivering the packs themselves.

online ordering to keep up with customer demand.

Newman Farm, which typically processes approximately 200 hogs a week, works with

Bolyard has been buying meat from Newman Farm since opening the shop in 2014. He first

two medium-sized processors – Swiss Meats in Hermann, Missouri, which handles

formed a friendship with Newman years earlier, while working at James Beard award-winning

processing for the farm’s central Missouri and St. Louis markets, and Paradise Locker,

chef Kevin Nashan’s Sidney Street Cafe. “I’ve been out to his farm, and the wealth of knowledge

which processes meat for all its online sales. “Lou Fantasma and I are very close; we’re

that guy has is incredible,” says Bolyard. “He’s super passionate about his operation and the

like brothers. [We] talk 50 times a week,” says Newman. “As our business grew, business

animal husbandry side of things. The guy just eats, sleeps and breathes meat.”

for Lou and the Fantasma family grew. We grew together. We’re all part of this really cool family that ties this whole food system together. ”

Bolyard is also quick to praise Newman for the quality of his pork – a heritage breed called Berkshire prized for its rich flavor – and his humane and sustainable farming practices. The hogs

At first, faced with nose-diving commercial sales, Newman thought he should cancel

foraging in the grass at Newman Farm don’t resemble the pale pink pigs we see on barbecue joint

his upcoming processing dates. But after speaking with Fantasma and sleeping on it,

signs or sauce bottles. Newman’s hogs are jet black with shocks of white hair on their feet and

he thought better of it. “And thank goodness – now everybody is just crammed full,” says

the tips of their tails, and their faces feature a white wedge-shaped marking known as a blaze.

Newman. “It makes me sick to think about if we had given up any of our slots; we’d be in a tight spot because you just can’t get them.”

“I can’t say enough about my farmers,” says Bolyard. “We’re proud of the product that we get and we try to treat it as respectfully as possible.”

Although Newman, his family and their employees were initially rocked by falling commercial sales, he says the meat packs and other online retail sales have buoyed the

Amid the pandemic, Bolyard has seen new customers beginning to understand how the local

bottom line. Right now, no one can predict where the industry will be in a month, let alone

food supply chain is shorter and more accountable than the industrial. “With the large-scale

a year, but Newman expects direct-to-consumer sales to continue to grow and remain a

factory farms, there are so many parts to the whole equation, and that’s the downside to getting

vital portion of revenue for his family’s farm. “I think that the coronavirus will change the

that big,” he says. “When something like this happens, it just ruins everything. The benefit for us

way we do business forever,” he says.

is there are three sets of hands: the farmer, the processor and us.” / j u ly 2 02 0

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As COVID-19 disrupted the food supply chain across the country, these local farmers’ markets got creative with delivery boxes, drive-thru systems and curbside pickup.

or many, the first farmers’ market of the season heralds the start of summer. Shoppers gather to meet up with friends over a cup of coffee and a gooey breakfast sandwich, listen to live music, practice yoga and, most importantly, stock up on fresh, seasonal goodies such as asparagus, rhubarb and ramps. But as stay-at-home orders went into effect across Missouri and Kansas in mid-March, local farmers’ markets began to rethink their operations in the interest of both shoppers and vendors alike. Deemed an essential service, these markets provided critical produce, meat and pantry staples to consumers during a time of scarcity – and found creative ways to do so. / j u ly 2 02 0

Overland Park Farmers’ Market

Columbia Farmers Market A

s the COVID-19 crisis unfolded, restaurants across the state – and the country – began offering curbside pickup; so did the Columbia Farmers Market.

rive-thrus typically call to mind greasy burgers and french fries, but for a few weeks this spring, getting fresh, locally sourced produce in Overland Park, Kansas, was as easy as

rolling down your driver’s seat window. The farmers’ market executive director, Corrina Smith, is also president of the Missouri Farmers Market Association, which has helped her develop a multitude of connections

The Overland Park Farmers’ Market had originally planned to open for the season on April 7,

with farmers’ markets around the country. When COVID-19 infections started to ramp up in

but after COVID-19 hit, the Parks & Recreation Department decided to delay the opening to

Missouri, and Smith began seeking ways to adjust and adapt operations, she was able to look

comply with local stay-at-home orders. As the team weighed their options for keeping both

to other markets for inspiration. “Very quickly, it was like, ‘OK, this is coming here. We have to

vendors and shoppers safe, they decided to relocate to the Overland Park Convention Center

figure out how to still stay open and be flexible,’” she says.

to accommodate a drive-thru market, which debuted on April 25.

The market put a series of safety protocols in place: All vendors are encouraged to wear

The drive-thru followed a one-way path throughout the parking lot with vendors split into

masks and gloves, shoppers are required to stand six feet apart and vendors are encouraged

different rows by category, such as produce and cut flowers, prepackaged dry goods and

to take credit cards as opposed to cash. Even with precautions in place, the first market

grab-and-go foodstuffs. “To our surprise, people loved the convenience of it,” says recreation

day following Columbia’s stay-at-home order saw a drastic decrease in foot traffic – 2,000

supervisor Kristina Stanley. “Many people found themselves buying a whole lot more than they

customers every Saturday dropped to approximately 500. A curbside pickup program became

normally would and discovered so many new vendors and new products – maybe they were

an urgent necessity to keep vendors consistently selling their produce and other products.

waiting in line in front of a vendor they had never seen before.” The final drive-thru market of the season featured approximately 50 vendors and 800 cars.

How does it work? Customers order and pay vendors directly through an online ordering system. Available goods include a number of fan favorites from Pasta La Fata, Hemme

When the state of Kansas eased restrictions in early May, the Overland Park Farmers’ Market

Brothers Creamery and Uprise Bakery, to name a few. At a designated time on Saturday,

transitioned back into a walk-up market, with several measures in place to promote social

customers can pull up to the market and have a market staff member place their groceries

distancing. But Stanley says the drive-thru market taught them several key lessons they’ll

right into their vehicle for a contactless drop-off.

continue to incorporate into their future operations, especially since they’re in the process of building a new market.

Each week, the market received hundreds of curbside orders, proving to be the life blood for those who depend on the market for their livelihoods. “For me, the most important thing, and

“COVID-19 has highlighted that while a lot of markets provide entertainment, our fundamental

the most rewarding thing, is to see my vendors be successful,” says Smith. “This is helping

offering is as a food provider,” she says. “We are here to offer fresh produce and local goods to

them continue to make a living.”

customers. Going back 10 years, there was this big ‘buy local’ movement that encouraged people to get to know your farmer, and a lot of people kept wondering if it was a fad. Here we are now,

To stay up to date about the curbside pickup program, safety protocols and more, visit the

[living through] a pandemic, and it hones in on how important local, sustainable food is to the

market’s website. –K.C. columbiafarmersmarket.org PHOTO BY keith borgmeyer

community.” –H.R. opkansas.org/recreation-fun/farmers-market PHOTO BY zach bauman

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 2 0

Tower Grove Farmers’ Market T

hanks to the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market, St. Louisans can now get fresh, local vegetables, sustainably raised meat and even handmade pasta delivered straight

Farmers Market of the Ozarks T

he Farmers Market of the Ozarks can see as many as 10,000 people on any given Saturday in spring and summer, which made it impossible to continue business as usual

to their doorsteps. After suspending the winter farmers’ market in mid-March as COVID-19

when the COVID-19 crisis began. Executive director Karissa Kary and market manager Jesse

began to spread throughout the area, co-founder Patrick Horine wanted to find a way to allow

Stone needed to act quickly to keep the market running; to comply with new health rules for

the market’s many vendors to continue selling their products but also to provide a resource

public gatherings, they either had to overhaul the market’s model or shut down completely.

for shoppers as some items became scarce on grocery store shelves.

Not wanting to lose momentum for the season – the first market day of spring was just days away – they decided to implement a drive-thru model beginning March 21.

In partnership with Eat Here St. Louis, a farm-to-restaurant purveyor, Tower Grove Farmers’ Market soon launched delivery of curated boxes featuring products from Bee Simple City

Now, approximately 40 vendors line up each Saturday to serve customers, who wait in their cars

Farm, Ivan’s Organic Fig Farm, Marshall Family Farms, Ozark Forest Mushrooms and many

for the opportunity to drive up to each vendor. While it’s impossible to conduct the same volume

more. In addition to a produce box, a local meat box and a grill box perfect for backyard

of business that the market would have done before COVID-19, the new model has given vendors

barbecues, the market offers themed boxes such as the “Clean Living” box with Confluence

the chance to thrive, thanks to the Springfield, Missouri, community. “Our patrons really came

Kombucha tempeh and kimchi and juices from Beets & Bones. Customers can also order

through,” says Kary.

individual items such as Baetje Farms goat cheese, Heirloom Bottling Co. shrubs, Larder & Cupboard jams, STL Barkeep cocktails and Vicini Pastaria pastas and sauces. To call the

The entire shopping experience takes a little longer – customers have to wait in line in their car

delivery boxes popular would be a bit of an understatement – by May, the market was selling

to reach vendors and then it’s stop-and-go at each vendor through the line – but Stone, as well

500 boxes a week, which often sold out in a matter of hours.

as vendors, try to make it fun. You might find Stone walking up and down the line of cars dressed as a carrot or a tomato, or maybe the market is hosting a drive-thru selfie contest through

Both the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market and its sister market, The Boulevard Farmers’ Market

its Facebook page that day. While it’s not a replacement for the events (or the revenue from

in Richmond Heights, Missouri, reopened to the public in May with several safety measures

those events) and other community-building activities that the market usually puts on in the

in place – including chalked lines to promote social distancing and a mask requirement for

warm-weather months, it helps boost morale. “I see grumpy faces because they’re getting tired

both vendors and shoppers – but a reduced number of delivery boxes will still be available

of sitting in their car, and they just break out into smiles,” says Stone. “They remember, ‘That’s

throughout the rest of the year.

why I’m supporting this market,’ and that changes it all.”

Overall, Horine says that the pandemic hasn’t slowed down local farmers, and he hopes that

Customers who have certain vendors in mind can hop out of line after hitting their market stands

more consumers are encouraged to continue buying local. “Right now, it seems like the national

of choice. For those who have just one favorite, there’s a list of ways to contact vendors for

food [supply] chain is recovering, but for a while we were seeing how healthy our local system is,”

Saturday pickup outside of the usual line. But for many, getting to peruse each vendor's offerings –

he says. “My hope is that moving forward we can bring more farmers in the region on board just

whether it’s duck eggs from Blue Heron Farm, Grandma Lena’s Honey or elderberry-ginger

for security’s sake – having a strong local food system is important. I’ve been saying that for a

kombucha from Spring Branch Kombucha – even from their car, helps recreate some of the

long time, and now we’re seeing why.” –H.R. tgfarmersmarket.com PHOTO BY paige mcdonald

allure of shopping at a farmers’ market. –K.C. loveyourfarmer.com PHOTO BY brandon alms / j u ly 2 02 0

olumbia Center for Urban Agriculture

columbia center for urban agriculture

Since then, CCUA has worked tirelessly to

(CCUA) is making Columbia, Missouri,

continues to grow, connecting Columbia residents to healthy, sustainable living and supporting the local food system.

feed at-risk members of the community,

a healthier place one garden at a time.

What began as a composting project run by

support the local food system and make home gardening, agriculture and food production more visible to all.

Sustain Mizzou, a student club at the University of Missouri, which composted food scraps from some of the dining halls on campus, quickly morphed into something much bigger –

Written by Rachel Huffman

Photography by Keith Borgmeyer

Today, the nonprofit is also working on an impressive new project: Columbia’s Agriculture Park. “We’ve been at the urban farm for more than 10 years now – and it’s a great site – but

with a greater chance of making an impact. “Once you have piles and piles of compost, it only makes sense

greenhouse, a chicken coop and raised garden beds; every

we needed more space for our headquarters,” says Polansky.

to start gardening,” says Billy Polansky, executive director of

square inch of that little lot was flourishing.”

“We have a 30-year lease with the city, so we have some really nice land security at the new [10-acre] site.”

CCUA. Polansky jokes that he wasn’t part of the operation from day one – that was Adam Saunders, Dan Soetaert and Bobby

In 2009, CCUA received nonprofit status, and in 2010,

Johnson; “I was there for, like, day three,” he says.

Stevenson offered the organization a 1.3-acre site just north of

Like a big onion, Columbia’s Agriculture Park has a lot of layers.

downtown Columbia, which became its permanent urban farm.

The newly constructed MU Health Care Pavilion, where the

The organization’s first garden site was on the corner of

In the early days, everyone worked on a volunteer basis. “We

Columbia Farmers Market is now held year-round, anchors the

East Ash and St. Joseph streets. “It was an empty lot owned

had volunteer work days, and people would just show up,” says

park. Phase one of the large, linear pavilion’s construction is

by Mark Stevenson, who’s been a really generous landlord,”

Polansky. And thank goodness they did. “There’s so much work

complete, accommodating 38 covered vendor spaces, parking

says Polansky. “We got access to it in 2008 and built a small

to do, especially when you’re establishing a new garden site.”

for each vendor and a 30-foot-wide shopping aisle for market

feastmagazine.com / july 2 0 2 0

customers, along with public restrooms and drinking fountains. Additional vendors set up tents on either side of the pavilion on market days, but when phase two of construction is completed, the roof of the pavilion will allow for 98 vendors to comfortably sell their wares, come rain or shine. PICTURED top to bottom: Progress at Columbia's Agriculture

Increased parking, sidewalks and walking trails will make

Park, including a 1-acre patch of

the farmers’ market and the park more accessible to the

farmland and the new MU Health

community. As you meander along the walkways today, you

Care Pavilion where the Columbia

can already see other areas of the park coming to life. A 1-acre patch of farmland is being planted – the CCUA team

Farmers Market is held year-round;

has been conditioning the soil for approximately two and a

the Mark and Carol Stevenson

half years, and it’s finally ready to start growing food – while

Veterans Urban Farm;

demonstration gardens and orchards will form the backbone

Navy veteran Sam Sutton

of the park’s educational programming, further supported by the outdoor classroom and one-room schoolhouse, which is

"It’s a job in which you get a

already under construction.

palpable feeling of accomplishment Beside the brightly colored farm-themed playground, there

every day - you can see the outcome

will be a demonstration backyard featuring everything you

of your work with your own two eyes;

need and want in your home garden: raised beds, fruit trees, a

it’s not something on a spreadsheet.

chicken coop, a place to compost and still enough lawn space

It gives you a purpose.”

to kick a ball around with the kids or stretch out in a hammock.

-Sam Sutton,

For better or worse, the COVID-19 pandemic has coincided with

assistant manager, Veterans Urban Farm

the start of the growing season. At a time when many people are stuck at home with concerns about food security, there’s no better time to start gardening. “[The demonstration backyard] will be to scale so that people looking at it will think, ‘Oh, I could do that in my backyard,” says Polansky.

There were no benches, no bathrooms, no drinking fountains.” Now people come from all around to ride bikes and play soccer

No matter where you wander, you’ll find things growing, from

but also to immerse themselves in the edible wonderland that

native trees such as pawpaws to bushes of berries. Whether

CCUA has created.

you’re alone on your lunch break or out enjoying the sunshine with your friends or family, Polansky suggests taking a moment

CCUA has worked closely with Columbia Parks & Recreation to

to consider your surroundings. Can you guess what some of the

make the Agriculture Park happen. “We’re helping Parks & Rec

trees are growing? Are those chestnuts? Could you have ever

push the envelope,” says Polansky. “[Initially], they were kinda

guessed that such a lush oasis would soon exist in this busy

like, ‘We just want to mow it.’ And they’re helping us with safety –

part of town?

like what are people going to trip on, what are people going to vandalize, what are kids going to put in their mouth?”

Once fundraising is completed, there are also plans to build a combination kitchen, event and resource center across from

“Four, five years ago, this was just a dream,” he continues.

life,” explains Polansky. “We feel good that the urban farm has

the MU Health Care Pavilion. The commercial kitchen will be

“Then we raised more than $4.5 million, we started building, and

taken on a new identity; it’s serving a new target demographic.”

used for cooking classes and nutritional education and will offer

now it’s a reality.” At the end of the day, Polansky believes that

rentable space for culinary entrepreneurs. The flexible event

Columbia’s Agriculture Park will be part of the infrastructure

The Veterans Urban Farm is part of the VA’s transitional work

space will host up to 175 people, and the resource center will

that strengthens the local food system.

program. The job-training program previously operated solely

provide office space for park staff and practical information

out of the hospital, where veterans push patients in wheelchairs,

8L`

about growing and preparing healthy foods for the public. Each section of the park, every idea that has been fleshed out, adds value to the space and betters the Columbia

change bedding and clean, among other things. The goal of the program is to give them the soft skills they need to get a job outside of the hospital. “Through the program, veterans can

ven with all of the excitement surrounding Columbia’s

now get paid to work at the urban farm – it’s a way different

Agriculture Park, no one has forgotten about CCUA’s

experience,” says Polansky. “We’re excited to offer something

urban farm on Smith Street. On Veterans Day 2019, the

outdoors, outside of the clinical setting, where people can do

organization announced its partnership with the Harry S. Truman

some of their healing in a more pleasant environment. … It could

(ARC), a 73,000-square-foot state-of-the-art facility featuring

Memorial Veterans’ Hospital and renamed the urban farm the

have huge implications for VAs across the country.”

an indoor track, an indoor leisure pool, strength training and

Mark and Carol Stevenson Veterans Urban Farm. This year, as

cardio equipment, a gymnasium with basketball, volleyball

CCUA moved its base of operations to the Agriculture Park,

Sam Sutton, a Navy veteran, is the assistant manager at the

and pickleball and more; West Middle School and countless

it launched a program to use the urban farm as a therapeutic

Veterans Urban Farm. “I absolutely love this,” he says. “I haven’t

businesses and homes – it’s hard to believe the park was so

site for VA patients as well as the wider veteran community. “At

cared about anything to this degree for a long time. It’s a job

underutilized. “It was just a plot of grass,” says Polansky.

this point, a lot of the therapy that takes place is recreational

in which you get a palpable feeling of accomplishment every

“There was no sign that said this is a park. There was no shade.

therapy, which aims to reintegrate veterans back into civilian

day – you can see the outcome of your work with your own two

community as a whole. Considering what borders the park – the headquarters of Shelter Insurance and its 5-acre botanical garden, Shelter Gardens; the Activity & Recreation Center

/ j u ly 2 02 0

“Gardening’s not for everyone, and that’s fine, but if people want to learn, we want to make sure there’s an opportunity for them to learn these skills and to grow their own food.” -BILLY POLANSKY, executive director, CCUA

CUA serves a wide range of people through other

programs as well. The Opportunity Gardens program, for example, which launched in 2011, is open to all

low-income residents of Columbia, and CCUA trains the families who join to be successful home gardeners. It provides guidance and gardening supplies – from seeds and plant starters to hoses and shovels – and addresses some of the challenges that firsttime gardeners face, such as “spring fever,” as Polansky calls it. “I always tell people to start small,” he says, “because you can build a big plot and put in a bunch of plants, but then you have a lot of weeds to weed, and in August, it gets really hot and it’s not

eyes; it’s not something on a spreadsheet. It gives you a purpose.”

as fun to be outside. If you’re just starting out, do something like

Besides learning the tools of the trade, Sutton says it means a

a 4-by-10-foot raised bed or plant tomatoes in containers on

lot to veterans to be able to work with other veterans. “You get

your patio. A small success is better than a big failure.”

to maintain that camaraderie. … A lot of veterans find it hard to relate to people outside of the veteran community [when it

“Gardening’s not for everyone – and that’s fine – but if people

comes to] certain struggles, certain trials and tribulations, and

want to learn, we want to make sure there’s an opportunity for

transitioning back to being a civilian. [The urban farm is] an outlet

them to learn these skills and to grow their own food,” he adds.

to gripe or tell stories or rally your sense of humor, especially now that everyone is so isolated.”

When a family applies to the program, CCUA team members speak with them about why they want to start a garden: What

On the urban farm, veterans do everything that needs to be

do they want to accomplish with the garden? They scope out

done to grow the food: They start seeds in soil blocks in the

the family’s available space to make sure it’s suitable for a

greenhouse, prepare the beds to be planted, plant crops, weed,

garden, and together, they make a garden plan and build a

water and more. These are additional hard skills that they can

garden to fit the family’s individual needs and lifestyle. “Over

use forever.

a three-year period, we check in with them at least once in spring, summer and fall to make sure they’re OK and to answer

The urban farm grows everything from carrots, beets, radishes

any questions,” explains Polansky. “Each year, we dial back how

and rainbow chard to blackberries, strawberries and summer

much support they get from us, with the goal being that at the

squash. There’s even a Japanese plum tree on the farm and

end of those three years, they’ve made enough mistakes – with

In early April, as schools across Missouri closed amid the

a huge mulberry tree that drops its fruit when shaken. This

us as backup – to develop their skills, gained confidence in their

pandemic and students were ordered to stay at home,

year, it harvested approximately a fourth of an acre of lettuce

abilities and become independent gardeners.”

CCUA launched virtual garden-site chats for the whole family and VEG OUT, a virtual educational gardening video

crops, and it annually produces approximately 15,000 pounds of total produce, which is all donated to local food pantries

In collaboration with Columbia Public Schools, CCUA also

series, to ensure kids didn’t just, well, veg out during their

and organizations serving veterans such as Welcome Home,

operates gardens at eight Title I schools, and it hosts between

endless hours of free time. The kid-focused programming

a nonprofit that provides transitional and emergency shelter,

1,600 and 2,000 school students a year, who take field trips

encourages young viewers to explore the wild nature of their

employment assistance and supportive services to at-risk and

to the Veterans Urban Farm in order to learn about food and

own backyard, perform science experiments, eat plants and

homeless veterans. The main food pantry that CCUA works

connect with the land – “to get their hands dirty,” says Polansky.

make crafts, among other activities – anything to get them outside, discovering more and more about food, agriculture

with is Central Pantry, which serves approximately 10,000 families a month.

“So many kids don’t know where food comes from,” he

and the environment.

continues. “When you pull a carrot out of the ground, they Veterans Program Manager Dustin Cook, who spent a decade in

just freak out; when you tell them where an egg comes from,

Above all, Columbia Center for Urban Agriculture focuses on

the United States Army, says that the community has actually

they freak out. It’s these little introductions, these little aha

its role in affecting positive change in the local food system.

inspired some of the crops. “We started growing kohlrabi

moments, which are so important for them.”

“Food is something we all have in common,” says Polansky. “People are interested in where their food comes from and in

because it’s a staple in the cuisine of a certain immigrant population that the food pantry serves, and people were asking

One of Cook’s favorite lessons is “Parts of the Plant,” in which

their health. … We want to empower [them] with skills to grow

for it,” he says. “And we grow a lot of sweet potatoes because in

he teaches students about the edible parts of different plants.

gardens, knowledge to make healthy choices and opportunities

the fall, they’re all anyone wants.”

Vegetables in the Brassica family make for especially good

to get involved. All of our programs are designed to get people

subjects, he says, because we eat different parts of each: the

actively involved. It gives them ownership: When you’re growing

flower of broccoli and cauliflower, the leaves of cabbage and

a garden, you have some investment in that, and it gives you

kale and the bulb of kohlrabi, to name a few.

pride when it succeeds.”

acP 42

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July 2020 Feast Magazine

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