December 2021 Feast Magazine by Feast Magazine

Inspired Local Food Culture

29 LOCAL SPOTS THAT ARE SETTING The STandard

midwest

december 2021

A wonderland for gifts

FIND THE GREAT GIFTS Our wondrous selection and expert elves make it easy to find great gifts... and something special for yourself. TotalWine.com

Redefining the Dining Experience. With more than 9,400 square feet of space spread across multiple levels, including an open-aired rooftop bar and a large outdoor covered patio, Junction House offers all of the options you need to host a sophisticated yet casual dining and drinking experience. Both the rooftop and patio feature full-service bars, lounge areas, fire pits, water misters, and outdoor heaters so that guests feel comfortable all year long. Junction House’s interior private room holds 28 guests while all three areas together (interior, patio, & rooftop) can accommodate 427 guests. When attending a private event — whether it’s a reception, corporate gathering, reunion, banquet, or birthday party — guests will enjoy a wide variety of handcrafted food offerings from Junction House’s scratch kitchen, an extensive signature cocktail menu, and a large wine list. Private-event, wedding, and corporate catering is also available. For more information, email Contact@Junction-House.com. Junction House, 1311 Lodora Drive, Wentzville, 314-375-4855, junction-house.com

DELIGHT is Always on the Menu With award-winning, globally recognized Executive Chef Brian Hardy at the helm, delight is always on the menu at The Gatesworth, an exceptional independent senior living community in St. Louis. Using only the freshest seasonal ingredients, Chef Hardy not only sets the general menus for The Gatesworth’s three full-service, in-house restaurants, but he works with the individual residents to custom-create menus. To Chef Hardy, creating custom menus is about more than meeting dietary requirements; it’s about surprise and delight, engaging the senses and stimulating the palate of each unique resident. “A healthy, well-balanced, fully customized diet is something every resident of The Gatesworth has always enjoyed,” Hardy explains. “In many establishments, you’ll find processed food; that’s not our way at The Gatesworth,” he says. “We bring things in and do the work ourselves, bringing in fresh fruits and vegetables, and high-quality, local ingredients. We do all our baking, butchering and brining in-house. We peel, blanche and prepare vegetables by hand. Most everything is made from scratch. It’s not the easiest way, but it’s the best way to retain flavor and nutrients.” According to Hardy, the difference begins with the staff. The renowned kitchen staff members hold themselves to the highest standards, and nearly every individual who trains with The Gatesworth is a graduate of a culinary program or has gone through

an apprenticeship, with some having even competed worldwide. “My staff and I are like the personal chefs of each and every resident that lives here at The Gatesworth,” he explains. “Everyone is unique, so every diet we create is, too. From the moment I meet a new resident, I become a student of their tastes, likes, dislikes, health needs, dietary goals, etc. I want to know them completely, so I can provide them with the best nutrition, variety and taste possible.” These standards do not go unnoticed by the residents, many of whom have named the dining one of the first-class features of the community. “The food is always excellent here,” says resident Carol Max. “Chef Brian Hardy will cook to order for you if there is something special you would like, which he has done for me many times.” “Our residents provide the inspiration and sometimes even the recipes,” Hardy adds. “Our kitchen can prepare pretty much anything, and we love the challenge of trying to bring a resident’s beloved family recipe to life. It’s all about that personal touch.”

EXECUTIVE CHEF BRIAN HARDY The 2020 recipient of the Dr. L.J. Minor Chef Professionalism Award from St. Augustine, Florida’s distinguished American Culinary Federation, Hardy is passionate about providing the highest quality of food and service to The Gatesworth.

The Gatesworth is now welcoming new residents! For more information, or to experience The Gatesworth’s personal touch, please contact us. We’d love to meet you! 314-993-0111 | THEGATESWORTH.COM

The Gatesworth is committed to equal housing opportunity and does not discriminate in housing and services because of race, color, religion, sex, handicap, familial status or national origin. feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 1

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PROMOTION

RECIPES BY DARIAN BRYAN PHOTOS PROVIDED BY CAPTIVA MARKETING

PECAN AND HERB CRUSTED PRIME RIB YIELDS: 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

• • • • • • • • • • •

1 boneless Linz prime rib roast 8-10 pounds 10 garlic cloves ¼ cup Dijon mustard 6 Tbsp each fresh rosemary & thyme 2 cups fresh pecan pieces 1 cup panko breadcrumbs 1 tsp kosher salt Fresh black pepper 2 large carrots 2 large celery ribs 3 onions

SAUCE AU JUS: • 1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce • ½ cup red wine • 2 cups beef stock • 1 ½ Tbsp salted butter • 2 Tbsp flour | PREPARATION | Season the Linz prime rib with a generous amount of salt and pepper and allow to sit at room temperature for 1 hour. It’s important not to put a cold prime rib into a hot oven, otherwise it will cook unevenly. Pre-heat oven to 325°F.

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feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 1

Prepare the pecan topping by adding the pecans to a food processor (or chop by hand) along with the rosemary, thyme, panko breadcrumbs, garlic, salt, a few cracks of pepper; process until combined. Set aside.

Rub Dijon mustard over the top of the prime rib and apply the pecan topping, making sure to press in firmly so the rub sticks. Transfer the prime rib roast to the roasting pan with veggies. Cook for 2 ½ hours until the internal temperature reaches 120°F for medium-rare. Allow the roast to rest for 30 minutes so the juices can re-distribute. To make the au jus, remove prime rib roast from roasting pan, and put all the vegetables and drippings in a saucepan and add beef stock, red wine, Worcestershire sauce. Mix together the flour and butter and add in slowly to avoid clumping. Bring to a boil and taste for seasoning. Slice the roast and serve with strained au jus.

PROMOTION

CRÈME BRÛLÉE FRENCH TOAST YIELDS: 6 SERVINGS

• • • • • • •

1lb loaf brioche bread, thick-sliced 6 whole eggs 2 cups heavy cream 1 Tbsp cinnamon Pinch of nutmeg Pinch of salt 2 Tbsp vanilla extract (or substitute vanilla paste) • 1 Tbsp butter or cooking spray for greasing the pan • 1/2 cup granulated sugar • Additional sugar for caramelization | PREPARATION | Preheat oven to 375°F, bringing it to desired temperature before inserting the French toast. Combine eggs, heavy cream, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, sugar and vanilla in mixing bowl; whisk vigorously until all ingredients combine. Lay bread in a shallow baking dish; pour mixture over slices. Let sit for 10-20 minutes, flip over for another 15 minutes to coat both sides evenly. Most of the liquid should be absorbed. Grease pan with cooking spray or butter. Add soaked slices to pan and place in the oven for about 10 minutes, flipping only once until golden brown on each side. To add caramelized sugar layer, add thin layer of sugar to the top of each piece of cooked French toast and caramelize until golden brown in the broiler. You can also use a cooking torch if you have one. Then, add whatever toppings you like.

CURED MEATS CHARCUTERIE BOARD YIELDS: 8 SERVINGS

• Volpi cured meats - Prosciutto - mild trio of Sopressata, Coppa and Genoa salame - Roltini • Cheese - Manchego - orange cinnamon cranberry goat cheese - smoked apple cheddar • Fruit - blackberries - red grapes - blueberries - kiwi • Jams - Orange fig spread - Plum chutney • Crackers of various textures and flavors • Olives • Nuts | PREPARATION | Use any of the above ingredients or whatever your favorite store has on hand. Use sliced meats and fruits – and your imagination of course – to create a gorgeous charcuterie board.

IMAGINE YOUR HOME TOTALLY ORGANIZED 1-800-BYDESIGN

In the Spirit is brought to you by Closets by Design. For more recipes and cooking videos, visit feastandfield.net/partners. / d e c e mbe r 2 02 1

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/ 15 / midwest made

Fruitcake

/ 16 / the mix

Oaxacan Spiced Hot Chocolate

/ 18 / healthy appetite Vegan Hallacas

/ 20 /

mystery shopper

/ 22 /

quick fix

/ 24 /

sugar rush

/ 26 /

crash course

Kvass

Persimmon Latkes with Creamy Goat Cheese

Candied Walnut Fudge with Smoked Sea Salt

Miso

feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 1

best new restaurants You won’t want to miss what these local spots have to offer.

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Inspired Local Food Culture /

December

midwest

2021

Volume 11 / Issue 12 Do your holiday cocktails need a facelift? Head to feastmagazine.com for videos on how to make these new recipes that are perfect for the holiday season.

EDITORIAL

sales

Editor in chief

general manager

Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com

Susan Eckert, seckert@feastmagazine.com

managing editor

media Strategist

Rachel Huffman, rhuffman@feastmagazine.com

Erin Wood, ewood@feastmagazine.com

digital editor

Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com

APPLES AND ORANGES MADE WITH SUNTORY HAKU JAPANESE CRAFT VODKA

BREAKFAST ON THE HILL MADE WITH MAKER’S MARK 46

PEACHES AND HERBS MADE WITH BASIL HAYDEN KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON WHISKEY

Kansas City Contributing Editor

Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor

Mabel Suen

Distribution

Springfield Contributing Editor

To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Rich Hudson for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at rhudson@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

Tessa Cooper Columbia Contributing Editor

Jessica Vaughn Martin fact checker

Meghan Baker Proofreader

Alecia Humphreys Contributing Writers

Amy Feese, Teresa Floyd, Rogan Howitt, Liz Miller, Patrick Mulvihill, Brooke Spalding, Shannon Weber, Gaby Weir Vera

ART Art Director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers

Zach Bauman, Angela Bond, Tessa Cooper, Teresa Floyd, Shelby Hall, Drew Kimble, Sean Locke, Ben Nickelson, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, J. Pollack Photography, Matthew Seidel, Jennifer Silverberg, Alistair Tutton, Cheryl Vaughn Contributing illustrator

Kimberly Cho Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2021 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

on the cover Quesabirria tacos from Tacos La Jefa in St. Louis by Jennifer Silverberg table of contents Japanese-style tamago sando, Italian muffuletta and pastrami on rye from King G Bar & Deli in Kansas City by Zach Bauman

feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 1

editor’s letter

utting together our annual list of best new restaurants is always a challenge – and one we don’t take lightly – but this year, in particular, was no easy feat. As we all know, COVID-19 completely upended the restaurant industry, shuttering more than 100,000 establishments and eliminating millions of jobs across the country in 2020 alone. With those sobering statistics in mind, we chose to forgo last year’s list entirely, opting instead to highlight several individuals working to create change within the industry. While restaurants are still dealing with an additional set of challenges brought on by the pandemic, including social distancing measures, staffing shortages and supply chain issues, just to name a few, the climate feels decidedly more hopeful this year. Facing insurmountable odds, dozens of new restaurants took the plunge and opened their doors – and that, we feel, is worth celebrating. This year, we’re excited to once again share our picks for the best and most

exciting new restaurants across the region (p. 33). These are the spots that are pushing the envelope with interesting concepts, thoughtful hospitality and, of course, incredible food and drink – and they’re the ones we keep returning to again and again. But this year’s list also reflects a changing dining landscape, featuring everything from a ghost kitchen operating out of a neighborhood watering hole (p. 34) to a mobile trailer serving vegan comfort food (p. 38) to a fine-dining restaurant crushing the to-go game (p. 41). Whether they’re serving their food in Styrofoam containers or atop fine china, these restaurants remind us of the simple joy of dining out. And as we turn the page on another tumultuous year, all of us at Feast hope your holiday season is full of joy.

Until next time,

Heather Riske

editor@feastmagazine.com / d e c e mbe r 2 02 1

PROMOTION

SLOWING DOWN TO CELEBRATE THE SMALL MOMENTS Stepping into December the days are a little shorter and I’m busy preparing for the holidays. As I try to keep up with the holiday hustle, I find myself surrounded by lists. Grocery lists for holiday meals, gift lists for family and friends, chore lists to clean and decorate the house for company and project lists to wrap up outstanding work items before the year closes. Although these lists are meant to keep me organized, sometimes they are more of a hindrance than helpful. I get consumed by the tasks and feel pressure to cross off all the items that I miss the moments that matter. In an effort to change course this holiday season I’m pushing my lists to the side. They will be there for reference, but I’m taking the approach to be more present and enjoy each moment along the way, even if that means not crossing everything off my lists. Instead I’m focusing on connecting with loved ones, sharing great food and drinks and creating memories that bring joy into my life. Reflecting on the past year, through all the ups and downs, I cherish all the times I stepped back from the daily to-do list and focused on these three things. So as we close out the year, I propose a toast and hope you will join me in raising a glass. Let’s celebrate the small everyday moments that brought a smile to our face in 2021 and look forward to many more in the year to come. Cheers!

SPICED FENNEL & WINTER CITRUS SPARKLER SPICED FENNEL SYRUP

INGREDIENTS 1½ oz Spiced Fennel Syrup

2 cardamom pods

4 oz grapefruit juice

1 cinnamon stick

Long strip of grapefruit peel

1 tsp fennel seed

Grapefruit sparkling water,

½ tsp black peppercorns

or Prosecco if desired

Peel of 1 grapefruit

Fennel and rosemary sprigs, to garnish

1 cup honey 1 fennel bulb 1 large rosemary sprig

PREPARATION In a medium saucepan combine cardamom pods, cinnamon stick, fennel seed and black peppercorns. Cook over medium heat, tossing occasionally, until toasted and aromatic, 2–3 minutes. Cut grapefruit peel into strips and add to pan along with 1 cup water and 1 cup honey. Bring mixture to a simmer and cook 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Add coarsely chopped fennel bulb and rosemary to mixture and remove from heat and cool. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight. Strain into an airtight container and refrigerate up to 2 weeks. In a cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine Spiced Fennel Syrup and grapefruit juice. Shake well and strain into an ice-filled glass. Squeeze grapefruit peel over drink and add it to the glass. Top with sparkling water or wine. Garnish with fennel and rosemary sprigs and serve.

SPONSORED CONTENT BY

ALLISON PRIMO

SCHNUCKS REGISTERED DIETITIAN

feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 1

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Making fruitcake is no easy feat. The process requires hours – sometimes months – of work and supervision. Instead of attempting the baking challenge at home, entrust these experienced local bakers with your holiday fruitcake. Written by Brooke Spalding photography by matthew seidel

Six fruitcakes in a home economics course sparked a large-scale operation that now sells and ships thousands of fruitcakes a year. Located on the College of the Ozarks campus in Point Lookout, Missouri, Fruitcake & Jelly Kitchen uses nuts and fruits in its fruitcakes. Instead of adding alcohol, the student bakers allow the natural juices from the fruit to meld together in the refrigerator for six months, creating a bright, sweet fruitcake for the whole family. store.cofo.edu/pages/fruitcake-and-jelly-history

The recipe for the fruitcake at André’s Confiserie Suisse in Kansas City comes from Swiss founder André Bollier. The fruit is soaked in a mixture of brandy, rum and simple syrup for up to a month before it’s baked in the cakes. André’s grandson René Bollier recently tweaked the original recipe, however, in order to showcase more of the spices, such as cinnamon. The fruitcakes are available in 8-ounce portions or 2-pound round cakes during the holidays. andreschocolates.com

After spending Christmases in the Middle East, Date Lady owner Colleen Sundlie was inspired to add a spiced fruitcake to her menu. The 1-pound rectangular fruitcake contains quintessential Date Lady ingredients, including dates, date sugar and date syrup. The fruit’s caramel notes pair perfectly with the aromatic spices in the cake, which Sundlie describes as dense but delectable. Have a fruitcake or two shipped to your door during the holiday season. ilovedatelady.com

The dark, rich fruitcakes from Assumption Abbey in Ava, Missouri, are world-famous – and we don’t use that word lightly. Crafted with care by monks who live at the monastery, the fruitcakes are sold across the globe. They’re known for their incredibly moist consistency, and they feature Burgundy wine-soaked cherries, currants, pineapple, raisins and lemon and orange peel. After baking, the cakes are injected with rum and aged for three months before they’re shipped. assumptionabbey.org

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Imagine entering a snowdusted house filled with the scent of simmering spices and then being handed this Oaxacan-inspired hot chocolate. Easy to whip up, the recipe calls for Abuelita, a brand of chocolate tablets available at most Latin markets, which is combined with oat milk, cinnamon and ancho chiles. For a completely dairy-free version of the drink, I top it with whipped coconut cream, and it’s just as delicious with or without the liquor. Story and recipe by Rogan Howitt, beverage director, Good Spirits & Co. in Springfield, Missouri Photography by cheryl vaughn

Serves 5 Whipped Coconut Cream 1 Tbsp granulated sugar 1 pinch salt 1 12-oz can full-fat coconut milk 1 tsp vanilla extract Oaxacan Spiced Hot Chocolate 32 oz oat milk 4 cinnamon sticks 2 ancho chiles 1 tablet Abuelita mezcal or tequila, optional whipped coconut cream (recipe follows) ground cinnamon, for garnish / preparation – whipped coconut cream / Add all ingredients to a mixing bowl; using a hand mixer, beat until liquid has stiffened to your preference. Store in refrigerator until ready to use. / preparation – oaxacan spiced hot chocolate / In a Crockpot, Dutch oven or large pot, add oat milk, cinnamon sticks, chiles and chocolate; set over medium-high heat and bring to a simmer. Stirring occasionally, cook until chocolate tablet has dissolved and mixture is warm. Decrease heat to low; simmer, at least 30 minutes, allowing ingredients to steep. Remove from heat once desired flavor is reached. Remove cinnamon sticks and chiles. Add 1½ ounces mezcal or tequila to each mug, if desired; top with hot chocolate and whipped coconut cream. Dust with ground cinnamon and serve.

feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 1

A Taste of History in Every Glass

good taste IS WORTH TRAVELING FOR

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midwest made

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vegan

Hallacas

YIELDS 15 to 18 hallacas Filling ½ cup olive oil 10 cloves garlic, minced 1 large yellow onion, small dice kosher salt 1 red bell pepper, small dice 1 green bell pepper, small dice 1 large carrot, small dice ½ lb shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced 1 cup cilantro, minced 1 14-oz can crushed tomatoes 2 16-oz cans garbanzo beans, drained 1 15-oz can black lentils, drained 6 Tbsp capers, drained and minced 4 Tbsp dried oregano 4 Tbsp ground cumin 4 Tbsp smoked paprika 1 cup sweet red wine

feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 1

Dough 2 cups olive oil 6 Tbsp ground achiote (annatto) 8 cups vegetable broth ½ cup brown sugar 2 Tbsp kosher salt, plus more to taste 1½ lbs precooked white cornmeal flour This is the Venezuelan-style of cornmeal flour, which differs from the nixtamalized Mexican style. Look for the P.A.N. brand. Assembly 4 lbs frozen banana leaves, thawed 1 cup raisins, soaked in sweet wine 20 whole pimento-stuffed green olives 4 stalks celery, sliced 1 leek, thoroughly cleaned and sliced

/ preparation – filling / In a Dutch oven or large pot set over medium heat, add oil, garlic, onion and a pinch of salt; cook until onion is translucent and soft, approximately 4 minutes. Add peppers, carrot, mushrooms, cilantro and a pinch of salt; stirring occasionally, cook until vegetables have softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in tomatoes; bring mixture to a simmer and cook, approximately 8 minutes. Add remaining ingredients; season with salt to taste. Continue to simmer, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to rest at room temperature, approximately 30 minutes. Once cool, transfer filling to an airtight container and refrigerate overnight. / preparation – dough / In a small saucepan set over low heat, warm oil and achiote. Set aside.

In a large pot set over medium heat, warm vegetable broth, sugar and salt. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the beater attachment, add flour; beat on low speed and slowly add broth. Add 1 cup achioteinfused oil; continue to mix until dough has formed (it should be moist yet firm, like cold mashed potatoes). If the dough is sticky, sprinkle in small amounts of flour as you mix. If it’s too dry, add more oil until you reach the correct consistency. Reserve remaining oil. Divide dough into 15 to 18 balls, approximately 3 ounces each. Set balls on a baking sheet and cover with plastic wrap to keep them from drying out. / assembly / Clear a large work space, such as a dining room table. Unpack thawed banana leaves; gently spread out, unfold and wipe off any excess

During the holiday season, many Latin American families spend days preparing and making tamales, which traditionally feature masa or corn dough stuffed with a hearty meat stew and wrapped in banana leaves or corn husks. Although flavor profiles vary from country to country, the masa or corn dough is the common denominator that connects the diverse cultures. The choice of filling highlights the cook’s background and creativity. Take this vegan version of hallacas (Venezuelan-style tamales), for example. As an immigrant from Venezuela, I’m intimately familiar with corn dough; it’s a generational gift and a piece of my memories. That said, I love to play with the recipe for hallacas in order to share my heritage while bringing a wide range of eaters together over a meal. After all, when cultures mesh, recipes – like people – adapt and evolve. Story and recipe by Gaby Weir Vera, private chef, Columbia, Missouri Photography by ben nickelson

water. Trim and discard center stems. Cut leaves into approximately 10-by-12-inch rectangles. Place raisins, olives, celery and leek in individual bowls.

fold-side down on another banana leaf; repeat wrapping process. Using kitchen twine, tie hallaca closed, making sure it’s compact. Repeat process with remaining dough balls.

Working with one leaf at a time, brush with reserved achiote-infused oil. Place one dough ball in the center and press into a circle, approximately ¼ inch thick. Add ½ cup cold filling to the center of the dough; top with 4 raisins, 1 olive, 4 celery slices and 1 leek slice. Bring the longer sides of the leaf together and make tight folds until meeting the filling, forming a cylinder. Fold the open ends of the leaf toward the center of the tamale, overlapping the ends to form a small pocket. Place pocket

Place hallacas in a large pot; cover with water. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat; simmer, 35 to 40 minutes. Remove from water; place on wire racks to drain and cool completely. Store in an airtight container in refrigerator for up to five days or in freezer for up to six months. / to serve / Reheat hallacas in a simmering pot of water. Once hot, remove from water. Cut twine and unfold banana leaves to expose the goodness inside. Serve hot.

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Sunday: 11:00am–5:00pm Monday: Closed Tuesday – Saturday: 11:00am – 10:00pm / d e c e mbe r 2 02 1

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What Is It?

The holidays are a marathon, not a sprint, so if you need a nonalcoholic drink to sip from time to time, try kvass. Bursting with cranberry flavor from kombucha and extra fizz from fermentation, it still feels festive.

Kvass is a fermented drink, old as time, from Slavic and Baltic countries. Similar to kombucha in effervescence and probiotic content, kvass diverges from mainstream kombucha in that it traditionally uses stale bread to start the fermentation process. In the 15th and 16th centuries, kvass was the rare equalizer: Everyone from farmers to royalty enjoyed it daily. In fact, the deeply funky drink has only experienced one notable dip in popularity during the early 1990s, when soft drinks infiltrated the region. The shift was short-lived; fastforward to today, and kvass is as popular as ever.

What Do I Do With It?

Enjoy it on the rocks. It’s crisp and refreshing, and the toasted bread starter gives kvass a deep groove all its own. In Russia, it’s often used as a base for cold soups such as okroshka with potato, egg and a cooked meat or botvinya with root greens and cream. For me, the joy of kvass is in the creation of it, which is fortunate considering how difficult it is to find in the Midwest. Typically, kvass is made with only bread and maybe berries for flavor, and sugar or honey works double duty for sweetness and successful fermentation.

Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer and Recipe Developer, aperiodictableblog.com Photography by jennifer silverberg

feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 1

Look fo r GT’s Synerg y Cosm ic Cranbe rry, or t ry othe flavors r of kom bucha such as apple, g inger and any other berry.

Spiced Cranberry Kvass yields 64 oz 8 cups cold water 6 slices dark or regular seedless rye bread, deeply toasted 10 oz fresh or frozen cranberries, divided 2 Tbsp granulated sugar ¼ tsp active dry yeast 1 stick Ceylon cinnamon, broken in half, divided zest of 1 medium orange, peeled in strips, divided 1 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled, thinly sliced, divided ²⁄₃ cup cranberry kombucha, divided

/ preparation / In a large pot, bring water to a boil and then remove from heat. Add toasted bread and 1 cup cranberries to water; cover and let sit on counter, at least 8 hours or overnight. Carefully transfer bread to a mesh strainer and press gently to squeeze any liquid back into the pot. Stir in sugar and yeast; cover and let sit on counter, 6 hours. Divide remaining cranberries, cinnamon stick, orange zest and ginger between two 32-ounce glass jars. Stir mixture in the pot and then pour into jars. Top each with ¹⁄₃ cup cranberry kombucha; seal and shake gently to incorporate. Set jars on counter to ferment, 2 to 3 days, unsealing lids occasionally to release pressure. When kvass is slightly bubbly, transfer to refrigerator. Use within one week (kvass will get less sweet as it sits.) / to serve / Give kvass a gentle swirl. Pour over ice and serve chilled.

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Persimmon Latkes with Creamy Goat Cheese Persimmon season is fleeting, so stock up while you can and freeze any that you don’t plan to use now. Look for Fuyu persimmons, in particular, which are distinguished by their flat bottoms, squat shape and firm texture that works better for these latkes. Deep, rich orange in color, Fuyu persimmons have a mild, sweet, honeyed flavor, and they’re at their best when just barely soft. Written by Amy Feese Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

For pops of color and bites of tartness, try garnishing the latkes and goat cheese with pomegranate seeds.

Get Hands-On Join Schnucks Cooking School chef Amy Feese on Zoom at 2pm on Sat., Dec. 18 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu. For more information on everything you’ll need for the virtual class, from cookware to ingredients, contact the cooking school directly. nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/cooking-school

or call 314.909.1704 22

feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 1

Yields approximately 24 latkes Persimmon Latkes 2 large Russet potatoes 2 Fuyu persimmons ½ small yellow onion 2 Tbsp all-purpose flour 2 Tbsp cornstarch 1 tsp cumin 1 tsp kosher salt ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper ¹⁄₈ tsp nutmeg 2 eggs canola, grapeseed or vegetable oil, for frying Creamy Goat Cheese 4 oz goat cheese 2 Tbsp water 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

/ preparation – persimmon latkes / Peel and grate potatoes using the side of a box grater with the largest holes. Add potatoes to a bowl of cold water, 2 minutes (this will keep them from browning and remove excess starch). After allotted time, remove from water; squeeze out excess water and allow to dry on paper towels. Meanwhile, grate persimmons using the side of a box grater with the largest holes. Peel and grate onion using the opposite side of the box grater. In a clean bowl, combine grated potato, persimmon and onion. Add flour, cornstarch, cumin, salt, pepper, nutmeg and eggs; mix until well combined. If the mixture looks soupy, add pinches of flour until it becomes more solid. (If your first few latkes still don’t stick together, add more flour.)

In a large, heavy-bottomed pan, heat ½ cup oil over medium high heat. Using ¼ cup mixture for each latke, add two or three latkes to pan; fry until browned, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Once browned, transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Repeat process with remaining mixture. / preparation – creamy goat cheese / Add all ingredients to a food processor; blend until smooth. / to serve / Top warm latkes with creamy goat cheese.

MAKE THE MEAL • Challah • Persimmon Latkes with Creamy Goat Cheese • Slow-Roasted Salmon • Halva

PROMOTI ON

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

PRESENTED BY

COCONUTS ARE WORTH CRACKING INTO S P O N S O R E D C O N T E N T BY K AT H E R I N E L E W I S

Shrimp Coconut Curry SERVES 4 RECIPE DEVELOPED BY MAGGIE ALGYA, REGISTERED DIETITIAN AT SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

2 Tbsp olive oil 3 cloves garlic, minced or pressed 1 Tbsp fresh ginger, chopped 1 yellow onion, diced 1 red bell pepper, diced

FIJI DWARF

KING

MACAPUNO

MALAYAN DWARF

Although coconuts might be one of the first fruits that come to mind when picturing Florida and the Caribbean, that image was nearly erased in the 1970s when a disease wiped out millions of palm trees. The hearty, smallersize Fiji Dwarf was cultivated in response, and it helped save a coconut industry on the brink. Today, homeowners plant them for landscape decoration, and because the fruits grow low to the ground.

When they’re growing, King coconuts have a vibrant orange color that dulls as they ripen. Despite the name, King coconut trees aren’t as tall as many other varietals, but coconut connoisseurs consider them tops in taste. They’re native to Sri Lanka, where they’re commonly sold on the street for their coconut water.

Crack open this kind of coconut and you’ll find neither water to drink nor flesh to eat. Instead, Macapunos are filled with a jelly-like substance, the (highly valued) result of selective breeding. Macapunos’ gooey texture and sweet taste make them natural picks for desserts, and they’re especially popular in Indonesian and Filipino cuisines. They also impart a decent helping of protein.

Found throughout Asia, South America, Oceania, the Caribbean and Florida, the Malayan Dwarf coconut is the most common variety in the world. They grow in apple-green bunches but turn light yellow when ripe. Malayan Dwarfs’ flesh is sweet and tender, excellent in baked goods, smoothies or even eating raw. Any preparation provides the body with antioxidants and other nutrients, including manganese, which plays a role in bone health.

There’s more to coconuts than their flesh. In addition to coconut milk and coconut oil, there's also coconut water. It’s easy to find in stores, and if you like its sweet, nutty taste, go for it — in moderation. “It has a good amount of natural electrolytes, particularly potassium,” Dart says. “Though it’s called ‘water,’ even unsweetened coconut water has a number of calories, which come mostly from its natural sugars. It can vary

When possible, it’s best to opt for unsweetened, low-fat coconut products.

siteman.wustl.edu/YDR

3 Tbsp red curry paste 1 Tbsp fish sauce 2 Tbsp brown sugar 1 1/2 Tbsp cornstarch dissolved in 1 1/2 Tbsp cold water 1 lb raw shrimp, thawed and cleaned (or any desired protein, such as chicken, beef, tofu, fish)

2 Tbsp chopped Thai basil for topping Lime wedges for serving

a bit, but about 12 ounces of coconut water can have around 60 to 70 calories.” Many coconut products are high in unhealthy saturated fat, coconut oil in particular. “While it’s often touted as a healthy oil, good evidence is lacking on its health benefits,” Dart says. “So it’s best to limit how much you use, just like you would with butter or other oils high in saturated fat. Research has shown that compared to healthy oils high in mono- and polyunsaturated fats — like olive oil — coconut oil can raise levels of unhealthy LDL (low-density lipoprotein) cholesterol.” Dart points to a 2017 report from the American Heart Association that concluded: “Because coconut oil increases LDL cholesterol, a cause of CVD (cardiovascular disease), and has no known offsetting favorable effects, we advise against the use of coconut oil.”

13 oz can unsweetened coconut milk

Jasmine or basmati rice, prepared according to package instructions

YOUR HEALTH TIPS Coconuts are the rare fruit that’s equally at home in the summer (refreshing coconut water) as it is in the winter (warming curries), and there are many ways to work them into a healthy, balanced diet all year long. “Coconut flesh has a number of vitamins and minerals and is a good source of fiber,” says Hank Dart, a Washington University public health communications expert at Siteman Cancer Center. “It can be eaten fresh, shredded or shaved, added to dishes like rice, soups and curries, and used as a topping on snacks like low-fat plain yogurt,” he says.

1 jalapeño (optional), minced or sliced (remove seeds for milder flavor)

PREPARATION 1. Heat oil over medium-high heat in large pan with garlic and ginger. Add veggies and cook for about 5 minutes. Remove from pan and set aside.

HANK DART

Washington University public health communications expert at Siteman Cancer Center PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

“Coconuts can add a unique and fun blast of flavor to many different types of foods and drinks,” Dart says. “But because they can have a complex health profile, it’s important to consider that when adding coconut to your meals and snacks, and to make any adjustments so you keep what you’re eating healthy overall.”

2. Reduce heat to medium. Add coconut milk, curry paste, fish sauce and brown sugar and whisk until well-blended. Bring to a slow boil. Dissolve cornstarch in cold water and add to sauce. Simmer until thickened for about 4 to 5 minutes. 3. Add shrimp and cooked veggies to sauce. Simmer and stir occasionally until shrimp are cooked. Serve over jasmine or basmati rice and top with Thai basil. Squeeze lime wedge over top. 485 calories, 16g fat, 56g carbohydrate, 29g protein / d e c e mbe r 2 02 1

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The key to a silky texture is

Candied Walnut Fudge with Smoked Sea Salt In my home, the holidays aren’t complete without decadent chocolate fudge. Perfect for gifting, the salty-sweet delight can be dressed up in different ways. Here, it’s studded with buttery, caramelized walnuts, but feel free to use any of your favorite nuts or leave them out altogether. Story, recipe and photography by Teresa Floyd, food writer and recipe developer, now-forager.com

feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 1

to not overheat the chocolate or milk mixtures. Keep the temperatures low, especially when they’re combined, and the fudge will come together beautifully.

P R O M OT I O N

Yields 48 1-inch squares Candied Walnuts 3 Tbsp sugar ¹⁄₈ tsp fine sea salt 2 Tbsp water ¾ cup walnuts Fudge 12 oz 60 percent bittersweet chocolate, chopped 2 oz unsweetened chocolate 1 14-oz can sweetened condensed milk 10 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes 1 Tbsp light corn syrup ¼ tsp fine sea salt 1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped ¼ tsp Maldon Smoked Sea Salt Flakes, for garnish / preparation – candied walnuts / Line a baking sheet with a nonstick silicone baking mat or parchment paper. In a small saucepan, combine sugar, salt and water; set over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until sugar has dissolved and mixture has thickened into a syrup, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in walnuts. Continue to stir until nuts are coated and sugar begins to crystallize, 1 to 2 minutes. (The nuts and the bottom of the pan will develop a coarse, powdery white coating.) Place saucepan back over medium-high heat; stir continuously until the crystallized sugar coating on the nuts melts and caramelizes into a deep golden amber color, 3 to 4 minutes. The saucepan will begin to smoke lightly as the sugar caramelizes. Immediately, scrape candied walnuts onto the prepared baking sheet. With the back of a spoon, spread them into an even layer; set on wire rack to cool completely. Once cool, place candied walnuts on a cutting board and chop into small pieces. Pass chopped walnuts through a fine-mesh strainer to sift out any dust; discard dust. Transfer candied walnuts to a small bowl; set aside. / preparation – fudge / Lightly coat an 8-by-8-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking oil spray and then line with parchment paper on both the bottom and sides. Set aside. In a small heat-resistant bowl, melt chocolates by heating in microwave in 30-second intervals, stirring well between each interval until the chocolate is just melted. It should be warm to the touch, but not hot. Set aside. In a small heat-resistant bowl, combine condensed milk, butter, corn syrup, salt and vanilla bean seeds. Heat in microwave in 30-second intervals, stirring well between each interval until the butter is just melted. The mixture should be warm to the touch, but not hot. Using a rubber spatula, stir condensed milk mixture into melted chocolate in four equal parts. The mixture will appear broken (greasy and separated) at first, but it will eventually come together. Stir mixture vigorously until smooth and shiny, approximately 3 minutes. Add half of the candied walnuts; continue to stir, 1 minute. Transfer fudge to the prepared baking pan and smooth the top into an even layer. Sprinkle with remaining candied walnuts and smoked sea salt flakes. Allow to cool and then transfer to refrigerator to chill, 2 hours. Using the sides of the parchment paper, lift fudge from baking pan and set on a cutting board. Run a chef’s knife under hot water and then trim off all four edges (heating the blade will create clean, crisp cuts in the chocolate). Continuing to wipe, heat and dry blade between cuts, cut fudge into 1-inch squares.

5 MOST POPULAR TYPES OF cannabis edibles SPONSORED CONTENT BY AMY LYNCH, BRAND AVE. STUDIOS CONTRIBUTING WRITER

Edibles, ingestible food products that have been infused with cannabinoids, can take many different forms. “Edibles can contain either THC, CBD or both,” says Bethanie White, director of marketing for Clovr Cannabis. “The CBD on its own doesn’t have psychoactive effects, but when mixed with THC, it creates a more well-rounded experience.” These are five of the most commonly enjoyed varieties.

GUMMIES

BAKED GOODS

Like the candy, chewy cannabisinfused gummies are available in a wide range of shapes, colors and fruity flavors — even sour variations.

Marijuana brownies are often what leaps to mind when people think of ingestible cannabis, although it can also make appearances in cookies, muffins, cupcakes and any other baked good.

CHOCOLATES

HARD CANDY

BEVERAGES

Cannabis-infused chocolate is another tasty treat. Clovr Cannabis has teamed up with chocolatier Christopher Elbow to elevate cannabis chocolate bars and bonbons to gourmet levels.

Low- to medium-level in potency, cannabis hard candies, suckers, lollipops and lozenges are considered a dual-absorption product.

Cannabis “drinkables” and drink mixes like sodas, teas and coffees present another option. There are also tinctures, or liquid extracts, that can be added to beverages or dropped directly under the tongue for quick absorption.

Consumers should be aware that the cannabis content can vary by product, and effects may differ by individual. To learn more, go to clovrcannabis.com.

Information provided is for educational and informational purposes only and does not supersede any medical advice given by a physician. Cannabis is still considered a schedule 1 controlled substance and is illegal under federal law. Adults who consume cannabis must keep cannabis products away from animals and out of reach of children. Note that the intoxicating effects of cannabis can sometimes be delayed, so do not operate a vehicle or machinery after consumption. Use of cannabis during pregnancy or while breastfeeding may be harmful. By purchasing cannabis from a dispensary, you are assuming the risk of any damage or loss that occurs during its use.

PHOTO PROVIDED BY CLOVR CANNABIS

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Know Your Miso Different types of miso are defined by three main factors: ingredients, color and flavor.

Shiro Miso (White) Often referred to as “sweet” miso, shiro, or white, miso gets its light color and mellow flavor from a shorter fermentation time and lower salt content. The milder miso can be used in everything from sauces to sweets and soups to marinades.

Shinshu Miso (Yellow) Slightly darker in color than shiro, shinshu miso is fermented a little longer and named for the region of Japan where it originated. Shinshu miso is yellowish in color and a bit funkier than shiro yet still complements many of the same dishes.

Aka Miso (Red) A longer fermentation time, higher salt content and higher concentration of soybeans to koji gives aka miso its dark red or brown color and a more concentrated, tangy flavor. Red miso adds deep umami flavor to any dish, particularly heartier braises, marinades, glazes and stews.

Miso shines in more than soup. The Japanese superfood dates back centuries, when the thick, funky paste was used to help preserve fresh fish. Made by fermenting soybeans with salt, water and koji, miso varies in flavor depending on the ingredients and the fermentation time, but it’s typically deliciously salty and earthy. Written by Liz Miller / photography by sean locke / illustrations by kimberly cho

“How you store miso is very important. If you store it in a hot place, it will keep fermenting, making the color darker and the flavor more sour. Make sure to store it at room temperature or in a cool place – I refrigerate it to [maintain the ideal] flavor.” –Stephanie Liu, Omo Japanese Soul Food in Springfield, Missouri

feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 1

How It's Made

Packed with probiotics, folic acid, B vitamins and vitamins E and K, miso is good for gut health; plus, it’s easy to make at home – it just takes time. .

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Soak soybeans overnight. Drain using a fine-mesh strainer. Transfer to a Dutch oven or stockpot and add enough water to cover soybeans. Cook over medium heat for 2 to 3 hours. Remove from heat and let beans cool to room temperature. Drain and reserve cooking water.

In a large mixing bowl, mash soybeans using a handheld potato masher or process them in a food processor until a paste forms (rough or smooth, based on your preference). Add some reserved cooking water, salt and koji; stir to combine. Using your hands, continue mixing, massaging mixture for approximately 10 minutes or until thick and well combined.

Sprinkle a little salt into the bottom of a fermenting crock or nonreactive container. Form miso mixture into small round balls and transfer to the container one at a time, gently pressing them together as you go to remove air and create a well-packed mixture. Sprinkle a little salt over top and cover with a cheesecloth or plastic wrap. Weigh miso down using anything heavy – a bag of salt, pickling weight or ball bearings all work. Cover with another piece of cheesecloth or plastic wrap and tie off with kitchen twine.

Store in a cool, dark place to ferment for at least six months. Stir once a month or so; if mold forms on top, scrape it off (unless it’s black or neon-colored, in which case, discard miso). The total fermentation time depends on the type of miso you’re making – one-year miso is lighter in color and mellower in flavor, while two-year miso develops a dark red hue and deeper, earthier flavor. Once you’re ready to use it, transfer miso to a sealed container and refrigerate.

/ d e c e mbe r 2 02 1

midwest made

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Use It

When it comes to cooking

in Ballwin, Missouri. Made with

with miso at home, chef Frances

white miso, mirin, egg, oil, garlic and

Harvey suggests keeping it simple.

ginger, the tangy dressing tops a mix of leafy lettuce, cucumber, carrot,

“I think simplicity is always

red pepper and crispy lotus root.

best when it comes to utilizing ingredients like that, because you

Meaghan Coltrain loves to put a

want the flavors to really come

sweet spin on miso, as well. Earlier

through,” she says. “You could make

this year, Coltrain, executive pastry

a really quick marinade for grilling –

chef of Bellerive Country Club in

get some nice scallops or fresh fish

Town and Country, Missouri, made a

and make a great glaze with miso,

white miso caramel for her bakery

sake and a little water to thin it out.”

pop-up, Nutmegs. She then used the caramel and Chinese five spice in

It’s common for both professional

her sticky and spicy sweet rolls at a

chefs and home cooks to lean

spring bake sale.

Nasu Dengaku Frances Harvey occasionally serves nasu dengaku at her Columbia pop-up, Fujiko Izakaya. The traditional Japanese dish features sliced and scored eggplant roasted and basted in a thick, glossy miso glaze.

into white miso. “It goes very well with seafood, and I think it has a

“I really like to take savory

deep flavor, but it isn’t as salty,”

ingredients and flip them into

Stephanie Liu says. “Red miso has

something sweet, so miso in caramel

a much stronger flavor. Yellow miso

just made sense to me,” Coltrain

is good for ramen broths, but I

says. “I make my [classic] caramel

personally prefer white miso.”

sauce, and when I’m deglazing the pan with butter, I add the miso. It

Miso also makes a great base for

comes out super fragrant, and you

salad dressing, such as Ann Bognar’s

don’t have to use a lot – a little bit

signature miso-ginger salad

goes a long way – but it adds a lot

dressing served at Nippon Tei

of depth.”

feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 1

“For Fujiko Izakaya, we really focus on Japanese pub fare, so stuff you’d find in a typical Japanese restaurant that serves a lot of small, tasty bites,” Harvey says. “Not only is [nasu dengaku] delicious, but it’s a fairly simple dish. A lot of Japanese cuisine has kind of a play on sweet and salty together, so that’s where miso really helps this recipe out.”

Recipe by Frances Harvey, chef-owner, Fujiko Izakaya

crash course

NOW OPEN!!!

Serves 4 4 4 2 2 2

Japanese eggplants Tbsp white miso Tbsp brown sugar Tbsp sake Tbsp mirin neutral oil sesame seeds

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 400°F. Cut eggplants in half lengthwise; score the insides by making small incisions in a cross-hatch pattern. Soak eggplant in a large bowl of water to reduce bitterness and avoid oxidization. Set aside.

We know you’ll love our full grocery selection, meat and deli counters, extensive natural and organic options, and our in-store cafe, home to Iron Drop Cafe and Ace Sushi! Located at City Foundry STL 3701 Foundry Way (Suite 201) Saint Louis, MO, 63110

In a saucepan set over medium heat, add miso, brown sugar, sake and mirin; stir to combine. Cook, 2 minutes or until miso has thickened. Remove from heat. Remove eggplant from water and pat dry using a clean kitchen towel. Brush with oil and transfer to a rimmed baking sheet, skin-side down. Bake, 30 minutes or until tender. Remove from oven and spoon miso glaze over top. Meanwhile, preheat broiler. Once broiler is hot, broil miso-glazed eggplant, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from oven and garnish with sesame seeds. Serve immediately.

@freshthymefndry / d e c e mbe r 2 02 1

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Dining out feels different today. COVID-19 shuttered thousands of restaurants across the country, and the ones that have fought tooth and nail to stay open are still reeling from its effects. Paper menus have been replaced by QR codes, plexiglass barriers have been installed in between booths and many restaurants have adjusted their hours or closed altogether as they struggle to find help. Despite the odds, new restaurants still opened their doors. Opening a restaurant is never easy, but in a pandemic, it sounds downright crazy. Yet these spots – which range from taco joints and sandwich shops to the first U.S. outpost of a Michelinstarred Italian restaurant – did just that, weathering the odds to bring something new and needed to our local dining scenes. These establishments are doing more than just serving great food – they’re rethinking hospitality, creating equitable kitchen environments and challenging our perceptions of what it means to be a great restaurant in 2021. Dining out feels different today, but it still feels special – and these restaurants show us why.

KC pg. 34 SGF pg. 36 COMO pg. 38 STL pg. 40 Written by Kasey Carlson, Tessa Cooper, Rachel Huffman, Patrick Mulvihill, Heather Riske, Jessica Vaughn Martin and jenny vergara

Editor’s Note: This year’s list was limited to restaurants that opened between September 2020 and September 2021. / d e c e mbe r 2 02 1

Taco Naco KC Market & Taqueria This summer, chef Penny Mufuka opened the doors to Bamboo Penny’s, bringing the unique tropical flavors of her native Thailand to Park Place in Leawood, Kansas. The upscale concept is the perfect spot to grab your favorite Thai comfort foods – the pad Thai, spring rolls and sticky rice are all worthy of a visit on their own – but Penny’s reimagining of traditional rice, noodle, curry and stir-fry dishes blends bold and inspiring flavors with unexpected seasonal ingredients, including bok choy, bamboo shoots, Chinese broccoli and makrut lime leaves. With 25 years of culinary experience, Penny is no newcomer to the local food scene; she and her husband, Doug Mufuka, have owned and operated Kansas City’s Thai House and Overland Park’s KC Thai for years. But with Bamboo Penny’s, the duo is pushing the envelope on what local diners have come to expect from the cuisine, combining Thai flavors and ingredients with contemporary cooking methods to create memorable small plates, entrées and specialties that all pair beautifully with the ever-evolving menu of house-infused, Polynesian-inspired cocktails. –P.M. 5270 W. 116th Place, Leawood, Kansas, bamboopennys.com | photo by angela bond

Bamboo Penny’s

Keely Edgington and Beau Williams are flying high with their second concept. Canary offers a full restaurant and cocktail lounge on the ground floor of The Netherland building, plus a spacious bar on top, complete with sweeping views of Midtown Kansas City. While Julep, their original cocktail concept in Westport, highlights whiskey, the 10 specialty cocktails on the menu at Canary don’t favor a single spirit, but they’re made with the same expertise we have come to expect from this team. Mood lighting brings the historic lobby of the building to life, and the mirrored walls in the lounge and restaurant, which are open only in the evening, give the illusion of space and add a touch of glamour. Executive chef Mark Dandurand has finally found the right home for his style of comforting cuisine made with local ingredients – think chicken and sweet potato gnocchi with creamed leeks, pearl onions and scape butter or pork pappardelle made with Sunny Meadow sausage, egg noodles, ‘nduja cream and cured egg yolk. Simultaneously simple and complex, these are elegant dishes to look at – it’s the type of food that always leaves you wanting more. –J.V. 3835 Main St., Kansas City, Missouri, canarykc.com | photo by zach bauman

Canary

One of the many ghost kitchens born out of COVID-19 restrictions, Cosmo Burger serves what has quickly become one of the most revered burgers in all of Kansas City. Since late 2020, chef Jacob Kruger has been slinging burgers out of Dodson’s Bar and Commons in the Waldo neighborhood, but unlike many pop-up concepts, Cosmo feels like a permanent staple in the local food scene at this point. The concept is simultaneously old-school and new wave: It serves time-tested smashed burgers yet only takes online orders. And the menu is as uncomplicated as they come. Start with a crispy, juicy burger, which has been smashed nearly paper-thin on a piping hot griddle. Top it with cheese so melty that it becomes fused with the patty. Adorn it with grilled onions. Dress it with a dollop of burger sauce. Throw on some housemade pickles for good measure. Then serve it on a soft, buttered potato bun. Wrap it and bag it, or serve it in a basket for Dodson’s in-house guests. The hardest decision you’ll have to make is whether to go for a single, a double or a triple (with Beyond Meat burger alternatives for our vegan friends). And don’t forget a side of tots – with extra burger sauce for dipping, of course. –P.M. 7438 Wornall Road, Kansas City, Missouri, cosmoburgerkc.com | photo by alistair tutton

Cosmo Burger

In August 2021, Manila Bay Express began serving its first customers in Grandview, Missouri, attracting diners from near and far. Owner, operator and head chef Norma Thayer has been serving her native cuisine to Kansas Citians since 2014, but Manila Bay is her first restaurant solely focused on classic Filipino food. While Thayer’s fromscratch family recipes might be what get people in the door, her mouthwatering broasted chicken is what keeps them coming back. Broasting is a patented method of cooking – think of a deep-fryer/pressurecooker hybrid that uses less oil – which results in a crispy, juicy, flaky chicken that’ll make you want to order seconds. It’s best to hold off, though – you’ll need to save some room for Thayer’s prized menu item, pork sisig (a traditional minced pork dish served with veggies, mango and rice). Manila Bay’s sisig is simultaneously sweet and savory, spicy and sour, borrowing from Spanish, Malaysian and Chinese cuisines. Truthfully, Manila Bay Express diners can’t go wrong. Much like Thayer herself, seemingly every menu item is one-of-a-kind. –P.M. 6305 Main St., Grandview, Missouri, manilabaykc.com | photo by anna petrow

Manila Bay Express

feastmagazine.com / dec em ber 2 0 2 1

In early 2020, after a year of catering events and organizing pop-ups, chef Fernanda Reyes set up her first Taco Naco booth at the Overland Park Farmers’ Market, serving both traditional and contemporary street tacos hot off the grill and selling handcrafted salsas, dips, taco meal kits and even Margarita mix to take home. A native of Durango, Mexico, and a graduate of the Instituto Culinario de México, Reyes was ultimately convinced to open her own brick-and-mortar location by her entrepreneurial husband and business partner, Brian Goldman, along with her loyal and growing customer base. In early 2021, Taco Naco KC Market & Taqueria opened its doors just one block from her first farmers’ market booth, selling fresh produce, local sundries and imported Mexican hot sauces, juices, sodas, candies and other durable goods. The brightly colored and aromatic space, which combines bar, restaurant and shop, provides Reyes with a larger prep kitchen to support her catering business while bringing in a reliable and eager stream of taco-lovers from across Kansas City. –P.M. 8220 Metcalf Ave., Overland Park, Kansas, taconacokc.com | photo by anna petrow

Taste Island Grill Ten years after opening Mesob Restaurant & Rhum Bar, a French-inspired Caribbean and Ethiopian restaurant, chef Cherven Desauguste debuted Taste Island Grill right next door, giving Midtown a more convenient, affordable and inviting option for a quick yet unforgettable bite. The fast-casual operation, which mimics Mesob’s tropical flavors and spices, employs Jamaican, Haitian and Cuban cooking techniques while simplifying the menu to feature five buildyour-own Caribbean rice bowls. Desauguste and partner Mehret Tesfamariam have created a delicious, uncomplicated “pick-your-protein” menu, turning simple, fresh ingredients into memorably named bowls such as the Beach Party and Reggae Vibes. Diners can choose from blackened fish, pork shoulder, grilled steak, jerk chicken or vegetarian options, plus island-inspired toppings and sides, including guacamole, sweet plantains, curried brown rice, fries and corn salsa. The concept also delivers bold flavors with jumbo guava chicken wings, tacos and classic Jamaican patties. While Taste Island Grill offers takeout and delivery, the restaurant’s physical space is as warm and inviting as the food Desauguste cooks up, warranting repeat visits for Kansas Citians looking for fine-dining flavor in a fast-casual setting. –P.M. 3605 Broadway Blvd., Kansas City, Missouri, tasteislandgrill.com | photo by zach bauman

Written by Patrick Mulvihill and Jenny Vergara

Magic Noodle

King G Bar & Deli

Located on the corner of 18th and Locust streets, right on Art Alley, King G is two concepts in one: a bar and a deli. The bar is bursting with personality, taking its inspiration from the neighborhood in both its décor and drinks, including craft beer, natural wines and quality cocktails served against the colorful backdrop of a graffiti-inspired wall mural of King Gambrinus (a folklore icon of beer, brewing and joy) painted by Sebastian Coolidge. On one side of the room, owner Eric Flanagan has built a handsome U-shaped bar, and on the other, guests can gaze down on a private basement bar that seats approximately 25 people. Next door at the delicatessen, a selection of nine regional deli sandwiches – plus salads and sides – awaits, developed by chef and consultant Howard Hanna. Some sandwiches such as the pastrami on rye, turkey and Swiss or corned beef are more familiar, while others might be a pleasant surprise for Kansas City diners. Try the tamago sando, a Japanese-style egg salad sandwich with Kewpie mayo served on traditional milk bread, or the eggplant and artichoke topped with Bibb lettuce, red onion and toum (Lebanese garlic sauce). As impressive as the rest of the menu is, the Italian muffuletta continues to get rave reviews. –J.V. 500 E. 18th St., Kansas City, Missouri, kinggkc.com photo by zach bauman

In April 2021, Magic Noodle opened in Overland Park, Kansas, and filled a void for quality hand-pulled Chinese noodles in the Kansas City area. Here, Elvin Liu, who owns the restaurant with his wife, Sandy Lin Liu, personally hand-pulls six different types of noodles: string, classic, mid-round, mid-flat, flat and shaved, all served in either steaming hot soup or stir-fried with protein and vegetables. Performing a mesmerizing culinary dance in front of a packed dining room seven days a week, Liu rolls the dough into a thin log, picks up each end and, bringing his arms together over his head again and again, lets gravity pull the dough down toward the counter each time, stretching it for longer, thinner noodles. For flat noodles, he rolls and flattens the dough on the counter; then, taking both ends in one hand, stretches the dough at waist height over and over until it’s turned into thin, flat ribbons that he cuts and drops immediately into boiling water to cook. Order the Triple B bowl of soup and get your choice of hand-pulled noodles in beef stock with braised beef brisket, pickled radish, cilantro and scallions. –J.V. 8013 W. 159th St., Overland Park, Kansas, magicnoodlekc.com | photo by angela bond

The

Town Company

In some ways, it feels like The Town Company has always operated inside Hotel Kansas City. With its low ceilings, original tile floors and a room divider made from the doors of the telephone booths that once lined the lobby of the building, there is an undeniable coziness found when seated in the small dining room, watching the live fire in the open-hearth kitchen. Executive chef Johnny Leach and executive pastry chef Helen Jo Leach moved to Kansas City to lead the culinary charge here and immediately developed a reputation for taking simple seasonal ingredients and using live fire to make magic happen on the plate. From the Clara Bow rolls with roasted carrot dip to the lamb skewers with cauliflower and smoky eggplant – even a dessert like the hearth-roasted apple pie with pink peppercorn pie crust, Cheddar cheese and parsnip ice cream – the pair show the possibilities of applying live-fire cooking in a fine-dining setting. The flavor profiles of their dishes, while familiar, demonstrate a level of finesse that speaks to their time spent cooking for lauded restaurants in New York City. With help from an intriguing wine list and a selection of fine teas to enjoy with dessert, the collective talents of this restaurant are already impacting the city’s food scene, and we expect they’ll leave a lasting impression on you, as well. –J.V. 1228 Baltimore Ave., Kansas City, Missouri, hotelkc.com/ dine/the-town-company photo by zach bauman

Tailleur

Is it possible to build two completely different restaurant concepts on the same side of the same street and find an audience for both? That’s what culinary entrepreneur Heather White and chef Amante Domingo are betting on with the opening of their stylish new European-style bistro, Tailleur (pronounced tailor), which sits just one mile away from their successful brunch, lunch and catering concept, The Russell. In their favor, both are located on Main Street and the expanding Kansas City streetcar line, and both highlight White’s impeccable design and décor skills along with the serious culinary talents of Domingo and his team. The new bistro is built to highlight an expanding selection of cookies, cupcakes, tarts, cakes and other pastries that they simply did not have the room for at The Russell. But it is the savory menu that will truly tempt, offering traditional bistro dishes, including steamed mussels and frites, quiche, niçoise salad and steak tartare, alongside heartier fare such as a rack of lamb, scallops, lobster risotto and pork shank that can be enjoyed with a bottle of wine or beer from their curated drink list. It’s safe to say that Tailleur is going to be a good bet for these two. –J.V. 3933 Main St., Kansas City, Missouri, tailleuronmain.com photo by angela bond

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sandwich scene the

Corner 21 Chinese Cuisine

There’s nary a cashew chicken special or crab rangoon served at Corner 21 Chinese Cuisine. Instead, co-owners Jiapeng Lu and Yuming Han, who is also the head chef with more than 30 years of experience, have narrowed the options to bestow Springfield, Missouri, with a uniquely traditional Chinese food experience. Rather than sweet and sour fried chicken, for instance, Corner 21 serves a crispy sweet and sour pork dish. The menu primarily highlights flavors from the northeast region of China, with simple and light offerings such as Yangzhou-style fried rice; however, spicy central and southwestern Chinese cuisines also have an influence on the menu in the form of Sichuan shrimp and chicken entrées. In each dish, there are multiple textures at play – think crispy fried pumpkin paired with silky egg sauce. Fried calamari is also a big draw, and dishes such as the cumin lamb with cilantro – inspired by the Xinjiang region, where the food is predominantly halal – challenge the stereotypical view of Chinese takeout. First-time customers come to Corner 21 with a bit of curiosity, and repeat customers return with a go-to order. 1369 E. Sunshine St., Springfield, Missouri, corner21us.com photo by drew kimble

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Formerly known as Secret Sandwich Shop, The Sandwich Scene is a chef-inspired sandwich shop with humble beginnings. Owner Mack Musgrave opened the stand in the back of Sweet Boy’s Neighborhood Bar in Springfield, but the business outgrew the 400-square-foot kitchen after less than a year. Now, in a more visible location with walk-up access from the street, Musgrave continues to serve cold and hot-pressed sandwiches made with juicy, tender meats cooked sous vide – just under a new moniker. It’s not uncommon to see a line trail down McDaniel Street from the stand, but don’t let that deter you – The Sandwich Scene is able to quickly dole out sammies without sacrificing quality. Although the menu changes frequently, a few tried-and-true staples withstand the test of time; the bestseller to date is the Prosciutto Happiness, Musgrave’s play on a chicken, bacon and ranch sandwich. Another hit, the West Palm Beach, is an ode to where he grew up, featuring crispy prosciutto, turkey and ham paired with Swiss, shredded lettuce, tomato, Dijon mustard and housemade mojo mayonnaise. 208 W. McDaniel St., Springfield, Missouri, secretsandwichsgf.com | photo by shelby hall

Queen City Soul Kitchen

Queen City Soul Kitchen opened in the aftermath of a wild 2020, satisfying cravings for hearty comfort food. Through their new shared venture, partners Francine Pratt and Lyle Foster honor Black heritage and communicate the origins of soul food. Pratt formerly worked as an upscale catering chef in Sacramento, California, where she served high-profile clients such as Kenny G and Patti LaBelle, while Foster brings business expertise to the table as a longstanding owner of Big Momma’s Coffee and Espresso Bar. Pratt debuts a fresh menu each month, featuring dishes such as smothered pork chops, mac ‘n’ cheese and fried chicken wings, but a few staples, including meltin-your-mouth meatloaf and candied yams, have a more permanent place. Pratt wants to do more than just feed customers, though; she’s also carrying on a family tradition of sharing the stories behind the dishes and ingredients that encompass soul food, from collard greens to sweet potatoes. More than simply a restaurant, Queen City Soul Kitchen is a vehicle to keep these stories alive. 2006 N. Broadway Ave., Springfield, Missouri, facebook.com/QueenCitySoulKitchen photo by drew kimble

Rise

From fluffy challah to creamy lavender-coconut yogurt to puréed red pepper romesco sauce atop pan-seared salmon, everything at Rise is meticulously made from scratch. Sisters Uliana Komodi and Christina Sava, who also own European Café, opened Rise in Springfield in early 2021 as a much-welcomed addition to the downtown square. The menu presents an option to please almost every type of diner: Adventurous veggie aficionados often go for the grain bowl topped with beet hummus, while breakfast traditionalists find solace in the classic biscuits and gravy. Rise’s menu carries diners from the early morning hours to the late afternoon, starting with lighter fare, such as parfaits and toasts, and stretching on to heartier breakfast and lunch dishes, including shakshuka, a Croque Madame and chicken schnitzel with French toast. The lively interior with pops of pastel pink and yellow, along with the pristine plating, practically beg to be Instagrammed, which is why the owners relied mostly on word-of-mouth marketing to draw in customers. Weekend or weekday, Rise provides a comfortable space for couples starting their day, old friends catching up or families gathering for a birthday celebration, all over bacon, eggs and coffee by the pitcher. 105 Park Central Square, Springfield, Missouri, 417rise.com | photo by tessa cooper

Written by Tessa Cooper

The Ozark Mill at Finley Farms

The Ozark Mill at Finley Farms in Ozark, Missouri, is more than a restaurant – it’s an attraction. That’s fitting, given Johnny Morris, who also owns Bass Pro Shops, Wonders of Wildlife and Big Cedar Lodge, opened the riverfront restaurant with help from his daughter, Megan Stack. Located inside a historic grist mill that was painstakingly restored, The Ozark Mill is just one part of Finley Farms, which also features an educational urban farm, a wedding venue and The Workshop, a coffee shop and makers’ space. Drawing inspiration from the mill itself, executive chef Kevin Korman’s menu features subtle nods to its original purpose – think fire-baked pizzas made with freshly ground hard red wheat flour or chicken and dumplings featuring cornmeal gnocchi. Other dishes highlight the seasonal produce grown on the property’s own urban farm, including shiitake mushrooms cultivated on site, and incorporate classic Ozarks ingredients, such as okra, corn and sweet sorghum. Whether you’re dining inside the mill or on the patio overlooking the rolling waters of the Finley River, a visit to The Ozark Mill will offer a fresh perspective on Ozarks cuisine. 802 Finley Farms Lane, Ozark, Missouri, finleyfarmsmo.com/the-ozark-mill photo by drew kimble

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Casa Maria’s Mexican Cantina From the pozole to the poblano fajitas, almost everything served at Casa Maria’s Mexican Cantina can be traced back to the home kitchen of chef Jesus Mendoza’s mother, Maria, from whom the restaurant has earned its moniker. After immigrating to the U.S. from Mexico, Mendoza himself cooked in myriad restaurants before running his own with co-owner Crystal Umfress. Mendoza developed the menu using his mother’s own recipes, creating meals so popular that the restaurant expanded with a new catering arm in late autumn. Beyond the food, customers flock here for the craft Margaritas, which are available in almost two dozen varieties. The origin story of Casa Maria’s is enough to spur a dinner plan, but its upscale vibe makes it an easy choice for celebratory occasions, as well. Mendoza and Umfress hired local artist Cindy Scott to design and paint murals on the interior, drawing from inspirations such as Columbia’s beloved Bur Oak tree, and floral art across the tabletops. To continue to feed its steadily growing fan base, Casa Maria’s plans to add brunch service this winter. 1305 Grindstone Parkway, Columbia, Missouri, casamariamexican.com | photo by aaron ottis

Gina’s Vegan A Go Go

Bud’s BBQ Named after owner Jason Paetzold’s grandfather, Bud’s BBQ is rich with history and tradition yet features its own modern flair. Born and raised in the Lone Star State, Paetzold then spent years in Kansas City’s restaurant industry before moving to Columbia, Missouri, and calling forth his Texas roots for his next venture. In preparing to open Bud’s, he spent a year working with leaders of the Texas-style barbecue circuit to season his knowledge of their craft, committing to practices such as feeding the smoker in the wee hours of the morning. Housed in the former storefronts of Ingredient True Eatery and Pickleman’s on Ninth Street, Bud’s serves draft cocktails, brunch, classic barbecue and what Paetzold calls Mexique: a medley of American and Mexican barbecue, featuring favorites such as barbacoa beef or pulled pork on a tortilla. The menu is powered by two custom-built live-fire smokers, which, Paetzold says, become more of an ingredient than a fuel source, producing a distinct flavor that Columbia diners have already embraced. From the menu to the space itself – featuring a handcrafted bar made with salvaged wood from a northern Missouri barn, custom neon signs made in Tennessee and panoramic windows that slide fully open to let the sweet smell of barbecue roll out onto the sidewalk – it’s the attention to detail in all aspects that makes Bud’s a standout. 304 S. Ninth St., Columbia, Missouri, facebook.com/budsclassicbbq | photo by aaron ottis

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With the debut of Gina’s Vegan A Go Go this summer, Columbia welcomed its only vegan food truck to the scene. Chef-owner Gina Overshiner purchased the food trailer during the first months of the pandemic, and she’s since made the trailer her own in looks and in flavor with the hopes of challenging Missourians’ perceptions of vegan food. Inspired and mentored by Main Squeeze owner Leigh Lockhart, Overshiner also draws on her own vegan lifestyle to create what she refers to as “vegan comfort food – like your mom would make if she was really cool and knew what vegan food is.” With this mindset, her goal is to make vegan food more approachable and craveable, offering plant-based riffs on classics such as a beet burger, barbecue seitan sandwich and “tuna” salad made with chickpeas, hearts of palm and seaweed. Overshiner makes almost everything from scratch, and both vegans and non-vegans alike have become repeat customers. In 2022, Overshiner plans to expand service hours and locations, aiming to roll even more vegan comfort food around the mid-Missouri area. facebook.com/Ginas-Vegan-A-Go-Go-102333925379678 | photo by aaron ottis

Written by Jessica Vaughn Martin

Ozark Mountain Biscuit and Bar

For years, diners have tracked the bright yellow Ozark Mountain Biscuit Co. food truck across Columbia, hoping to snag one of its beloved biscuit sandwiches or fried apple pies. With the opening of its new brick-and-mortar location across from Logboat Brewing Co., those fans now know exactly where to find the flaky, buttery biscuits. Upon entering the space, you’ll notice a well-lit monochrome portrait of chef-owner Bryan Maness’ great-grandmother, who passed down the biscuit recipe that started everything. Maness further draws from his family’s Arkansas roots to inform the menu, serving up Southern specialties with unique twists – think fried pickled okra or coffee sweetened with molasses. The permanent location also allows for a new focus on spirits – the creative bar program is already flourishing under the direction of Maness’ partner, Maria Seiffert – and family-style meals with shared plates, such as the creamy Cheddar mac ‘n’ cheese topped with cornbread crumble or the beef short ribs, slowly braised with a bourbon-peach glaze. 1204 Hinkson Ave., Columbia, Missouri, ozarkbiscuits.com | photo by aaron ottis

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Chiang Mai

At the new location of Bolyard’s Meat and Provisions, you can enjoy dinner and a show – as long as you’re fascinated by a good cut of meat and aren’t too squeamish. In the butcher shop’s expanded digs, you’ll find all of the local, pasture-raised meats that customers have come to expect from the whole-animal shop. But thanks to the larger space, co-owner Chris Bolyard and chef Remi Didry can also flex their chops in the kitchen with a full selection of thoughtfully crafted sandwiches, salads and breakfast fare. The Tom Tom takes classic sliced turkey breast and adds Colby Jack, pickled red onion, fresh greens and ‘njuda mayo, while the Pig Pen piles char siu pulled pork with sweet and sour cabbage and a drizzle of gochujang mayo. Throughout the menu, the team offers subtle nods to the shop’s commitment to high-quality, humanely raised and meticulously butchered meats, from a seasonal salad garnished with paper-thin housemade bresaola to the famous tallow fries. Cozy up to a counter seat to see all the action up close; thanks to a bank of windows, guests can now enjoy their meal while getting to see some of the butchering process for themselves. –K.C. 2733 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, Missouri, bolyardsmeat.com

St. Louis has recently seen a surge of restaurants determined to showcase the distinct flavor profiles of Thailand’s four regions, as dishes including khao soi and tom yum slowly become as familiar to Midwest diners as more ubiquitous takeout staples such as pad Thai. For a crash course in the intricacies of Northern Thai food, one need only head to Chiang Mai – the restaurant in Webster Groves, Missouri, that is. Chef Su Hill, who also owns Bistro Saffron in Cape Girardeau, opened the restaurant in October 2020 in tribute to the flavors of her hometown in northern Thailand. Hill learned to cook from her mother and grandmother, who both trained in the Grand Palace, the longtime official residence of the kings of Siam in Bangkok. Chiang Mai serves as a vehicle for her to preserve her family’s culinary traditions – including the handwritten recipes her mother shared with her before she passed – and share a true taste of northern Thailand with her community. To experience the cuisine’s signature flavors, characterized by sour, salty and bitter notes, opt for dishes such as the housemade sai oua (a snappy grilled pork sausage with lemongrass and chiles), gaeng hung lay (tender braised curry pork with garlic and ginger) or fragrant khao soi with red coconut curry, egg noodles and tender slow-braised chicken drumsticks. –H.R. 8158 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, Missouri, chiangmaistl.com

photo by jennifer silverberg

photo by j. pollack photography

Bolyard’s Meat and Provisions

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Casa Don Alfonso

Did St. Louis really need another Italian restaurant? With the opening of Casa Don Alfonso at The Ritz-Carlton, St. Louis in Clayton, Missouri, we’re inclined to say yes. The first U.S. outpost of the Iaccarino family’s venerable Don Alfonso 1890 – a two-star Michelin restaurant in Sant’Agata, Italy – aims to bring a taste of the Sorrento Coast to the Midwest, specializing in the culinary traditions found throughout the Campania region. And you’ll feel transported from the moment you step inside what is easily one of the most gorgeous restaurant spaces in town, featuring a massive open kitchen flanked by a copper ceiling and hand-painted tile backsplash made in Sorrento and a striking display of 600 hand-blown glass wisteria leaves suspended over the main dining room. That same level of attention to detail is also evident in the restaurant’s sourcing of ingredients – olive oil comes from a small farm in Sicily, Calabrian ‘nduja tops one of the wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas and the lemons used in the signature limoncello are grown on the family’s own farm. The menu also draws on family recipes stretching back generations, including the aptly named Grandma’s Ziti and the decadent Maccheroni Gratin, featuring housemade noodles served in a small copper pot bubbling with rich béchamel and slivers of ham. If the goal was to make dining at Casa Don Alfonso a transportive experience, the restaurant has done so in spades. –H.R. 100 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, Missouri, casadonalfonsostlouis.com | photo by sean locke

O+O Pizza

O+O Pizza is a bit of a misnomer. The pizzas – a crispy thin-crust style informed by both Roman and New Haven styles that executive chef Mikey Risk spent almost 10 months developing – are a worthy attraction in their own right, but the fresh pastas are just as deserving of top billing. Housemade noodles – whether the casarecce in the simple yet stunning cacio e pepe or the tubular occhi di lupo served with butternut squash, crab, apple, tarragon and brown butter – help make O+O Pizza’s pastas some of the best in town. The corzetti, in particular, is a showstopper: For this thin, disc-shaped stamped pasta traditional to the Liguria region of northwest Italy, Risk had a custom octopus stamp made in Italy to nod to the crispy octopus sitting atop the pasta with bone marrow, tomato, thyme, red wine and leeks. Thoughtful touches like

these elevate dishes throughout the menu – toasted ravioli features handmade noodles stuffed with beef, pancetta tesa and gooey fontina, for instance, while a drizzle of housemade Calabrian chile-infused hot honey takes a classic pepperoni pie to the next level. With O+O Pizza, Risk has done more than just fill the shoes of its much-loved sister restaurant, Olive + Oak, which relocated down the street; he’s upped the game for Italian fare in St. Louis. –H.R. 102 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, Missouri, oandopizza.lh-stl.com | photo by jennifer silverberg

Written by Kasey Carlson, Rachel Huffman and Heather Riske

Songbird owners Chris Meyer and Mike Miller are the brains behind what’s arguably become St. Louis’ most popular breakfast sandwich. The pair, who also own Kounter Kulture and prepared foods brand Field to Fire, have become fixtures at the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market selling The Combo, which features aged white Cheddar, crispy bacon, a fried egg, sea salt and a drizzle of honey. A study in simplicity and the importance of sourcing local, high-quality ingredients, the sandwich soon had hungry shoppers lining up in droves for it each Saturday. The Combo now has a permanent place on the menu at Songbird, but diners can also find equally thoughtful – and delicious – takes on classic breakfast fare such as a housemade sprouted grain English muffin topped with a turkey sausage patty, omelet-style egg, microgreens and brown butter aïoli or a housemade bialy with thinly sliced house-cured Scottish salmon and cream cheese. With Songbird, Meyer and Miller are building on a years-long dedication to celebrating local ingredients, from Bee Simple microgreens and Newman Farm bacon to the heirloom flours baker Bryan Russo uses to craft his flawless breads, bialys and biscuits. They might just be serving St. Louis’ best breakfast while they’re at it. –H.R. 4476 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, songbirdstl.com

Above all, Logan Ely wants you to have fun. The chef made his name in St. Louis with the elevated tasting menus at SHIFT, which is temporarily closed aside from occasional pop-ups, but his new venture, The Lucky Accomplice, is a more relaxed, comfortable experience with an approachable à la carte menu. Ely and his team have carried the same ethos across concepts: to find clever ways to cook what the farm has. The menu revolves around vegetables, and almost 100 percent of the restaurant’s produce comes from Eat Here St. Louis and Double Star Farms in Benton, Illinois. “The menu changes so often because we want to keep pushing the envelope, but also because everything on the menu comes from the farm,” Ely says. “So, if our carrot farmer doesn’t have any carrots, we have to alter our carrot dish.” Components of the cocktail menu, which is driven by bar manager Corey Moszer, are also influenced by local farmers – think sage syrup, beet-peppercorn shrubs and cherry-ginger bitters. With everything The Lucky Accomplice has to offer, we dare you not to have a good time. –R.H. 2501 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, theluckyaccomplice.com

photo by jennifer silverberg

photo by rolf ringwald

Songbird

The

Lucky Accomplice

Quesabirria has no doubt been one of the year’s breakout food trends across the country, and it’s easy to understand why from the first bite. Tender, slow-cooked goat – or sometimes beef – is layered with cheese on corn tortillas, which are cooked to crispy perfection atop a griddle and then served with a bowl of consommé to dip it all in. To experience a true taste of the Jalisco specialty in St. Louis, you need only head to Tacos La Jefa. Primarily open on Saturdays inside the Urban Eats incubator in Dutchtown, the pop-up taco stand serves quesabirria and both chicken and beef birria – available in tacos or as a plate – from a recipe that’s been passed down for generations. It all started with Heriberta Amescua, a Guadalajara native who started making traditional birria at area Mexican festivals and at regular gatherings in her own backyard nearly 20 years ago – long before TikTok found it – before fulfilling a longtime dream to open her own brick-and-mortar restaurant. Sadly, Amescua passed away in April, but her family continues to honor her legacy by keeping the spirit of Tacos La Jefa alive, one birria taco at a time. –K.C. 3301 Meramec St., St. Louis, Missouri, facebook.com/tacoslajefaSTL

Horror meets heavy metal at the newest vegan restaurant on South Grand Boulevard. The first restaurant from brothers Bradley Roach and Brian Roash, who spell their last names differently, Terror Tacos provides a completely different experience than other plant-based restaurants, which usually champion love, happiness and bright colors. As you wait in line to order, take notice of the setting, where heavy metal plays loudly over the speakers and décor items, such as room number 237 on the basement door, reference some of the owners’ favorite films. Whether you appreciate the theme or not, the tacos – such as birria tacos with housemade seitan marinated in vegan "consommé" – are indisputably delicious. Packed with meaty, textured plant-based proteins, the Citrus Mistress (spicy “chorizo” topped with pineapple-mango salsa) and the Carnage Asada (peppered “carne asada” with diced onion, guacamole and cilantro) also appeal to all eaters. Having only scratched the surface of what’s possible at Terror Tacos, the brothers hope to expand with more locations as well as realize other equally distinctive concept ideas. –R.H. 3191 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, Missouri, terrortacos.com

photo by jennifer silverberg

photo by rolf ringwald

Tacos

Jefa

Terror Tacos

A product of its time, Tempus opened for takeout only in The Grove in October 2020. Here, proper, straightforward execution translates into purposeful, genuine hospitality and craveable, comforting food. Through careful consideration of the most efficient, effective and appealing ways to box and bag each dish for carryout, Tempus was still able to delight diners without the dine-in experience. James Beard semifinalist and Culinary Olympian Ben Grupe says that operating his own place has been extremely gratifying, but it’s more than that: This is his opportunity to pursue his goals for the restaurant industry while allowing his team to present their own ideas in a collaborative and inclusive kitchen. The teamwork – and the fact that Tempus hasn’t pigeonholed itself with one style of food – is apparent in the range of sensational seasonal dishes such as beets with whipped fennel, salted strawberry and granola; maitake mushrooms with caramelized onion, horseradish and whey soubise; and the beef rib with au gratin potatoes, pot roast carrots and cipollini onion. The dining room at Tempus is now open Wednesday through Saturday by reservation only, but no matter where you enjoy your meal, the standards of food and service never falter. –R.H. 4370 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, tempusstl.com

Driving down Olive Boulevard in St. Louis County, all the plazas and chains start to blend together, but Timothy’s The Restaurant stands out. The brainchild of industry veterans Steven Manns, Tim Metz and Sean Olson, Timothy’s provides an upscale dining experience that’s unparalleled in Creve Coeur, Missouri. Upon entering the space, a genuine greeting makes guests feel at home, and the thoughtful décor and elegant tablescapes hint at the impeccable meal to come. Metz refers to the cuisine as elevated American, and familiar ingredients, expert execution and a pinch of magic come together for dishes such as the decadent lobster pot pie, truffle mac ‘n’ cheese and carrot cake fritters poised on top of cream cheese frosting. Since the restaurant opened in August, the wine list has grown; there are approximately 220 quality bottles on the menu right now, giving guests plenty of pairing options. Despite a general lack of floor personnel and a struggling standard of service across the dining industry, Manns ensures that the staff at Timothy’s is attentive and accommodating, providing top-notch service that feels natural and effortless. –R.H. 12710 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, Missouri, timothysstl.com

photo by jennifer silverberg

photo by j. pollack photography

Tempus

Timothy’s The Restaurant

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