Inspired Local Food Culture | M i dw e st
feastmagazine.com |
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the year in beer Find out what’s on tap in the local brewing scene on p. 54.
P. 6 7
grain - to - glass
sp i rits ta k e r o ot
a t fa r m d i s t i l l e r i e s
Explore the science behind wine & spirits. PIR I TS W INE A ND S
Science Uncorked Saturday, November 3 7–10pm | 6–7pm VIP Early Access •
Over 80 Wines & Spirits for Sampling
• •
Small Plates Amazing Science Demonstrations & Presentations
•
Live Music: Miss Jubilee and the Humdingers
$45 Members $55 non-members $60 day of the event (Member discount does not apply day of event)
$100 VIP ticket includes first access to tastings and food, VIP lounge with additional food and beverages, exclusive vendor interactions, valet parking and more.
Call 314.289.4400 or visit slsc.org/uncorked to purchase tickets. This is a 21+ event.
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Glass is AMAZING!
THIRD DEGREE GL A SS FACTORY provides amazing experiences with glass for everyone! The gallery features hundreds of original works of glass art, each handmade in-house by dozens of local artists. VASES • BOWLS • PLATTERS • BARWARE • OBJETS D’ART • JEWELRY • GIFTS
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5200 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, MO 63108
Open Monday-Saturday 10:00a-5:00p & Sunday 11:00a-4:00p
314.367.4527
Inspired Local Food Culture
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ShawArtFair.org
FIND IT | LOVE IT | BUY IT
OCTOBER 6 & 7, 2018 9 am to 5 pm Saturday; 10 am to 5 pm Sunday
FINE ART
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26th
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Must be 21. Exclusions apply. Gambling Problem? Call 1.888.BETSOFF. ©2018 Pinnacle Entertainment, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
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Trees
are constantly “on the job,” working for us in incredibly important and surprising ways. They provide habitat for wildlife, cost-saving shade for our homes, and a host of wood products we rely on every day. Pecan and black walnut trees right here in Missouri provide the nuts we use in our favorite recipes. .
Learn how Trees Work for you at TreesWork.org.
Discover
Nature
T
hese not-so-sweet, nutritious muffins are wonderfully malleable and forgiving of just about anything you put in the batter. Add a few leftover nuts here, a handful of raisins or dried fruit there, or substitute rolled oats or wheat for part of the flour. You also can use whole wheat flour instead of white or varying proportions of each. I’ve even used part cornmeal. Sometimes I throw in flax, chia, or sesame seeds.
Bernadette© s catch-all muffins Makes about 20 muffins
1½ cups sugar 2¹∕³ cups flour 2½ teaspoons baking soda, sifted ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup oil 2 eggs 2 cups buttermilk 1 cup boiling water 3 cups wheat bran 1 cup golden raisins (or part dried cranberries, dates or figs) 1 cup pecans or hickory nuts (toasted lightly, preferably) Blend together first four ingredients (through salt) in one bowl and next three ingredients (oil through buttermilk) in another. Then, gently mix all seven together. Meanwhile, pour water over bran and fruit in a separate bowl; let stand a few minutes, then stir and gently combine with the batter. Stir in nuts. Pour into medium-sized muffin tins lined with paper cups. (Batter also will keep in refrigerator for at least a week.) Bake in a 400ºF oven for 15 to 20 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in muffin’s center comes out clean. Turn muffins onto a rack to cool.
Find more wild recipes in Cooking Wild in Missouri. Order yours at mdcnatureshop.com. Inspired Local Food Culture
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october 2018
from the staff
| 8|
from the PUBLIsher
Bottoms up
| 12 |
dIgItaL content
| 14 |
feast tv
What’s online this month Coffee and donuts
dIne
| 18 |
on trend
| 19 |
one on one
| 20 |
where we’re dInIng
| 21 |
shoP here
| 21 |
artIsan ProdUct
| 22 |
one on one
Matcha
Michael Felts of Taco Habitat Pearl Tavern, Le Bao, Bakers & Hale Olive Tree
Bijoux Chocolates
Nick Martinkovic of Noah’s Cupboard
drInk
50 54 67
Table of conTenTs phoTo of roberT berendzen charring an oak barrel aT barrel 53 cooperage in higbee, missouri (p. 67), by keiTh borgmeyer coVer phoTo of conan The blue-berrian cockTail and second lunch pale ale aT earThbound beer in sT. louis (p. 54) by madison sTringfellow
cider house rules st. Louis’ first cidery is using regional ingredients and innovative techniques to change the notion of what craft cider can be.
the year in beer our annual guide to the latest in local beer includes new breweries, big brewing news and the best new beers of the year.
raise a glass
two local farm distilleries prove that quality grain-toglass spirits start in the field.
| 26 |
on trend
| 27 |
one on one
| 28 |
where we’re drInkIng
| 29 |
shoP here
| 29 |
artIsan ProdUct
| 30 |
the mIx
| 31 |
on the sheLf
Non-alcoholic cocktails Jonathan Williamson of Sandhills Brewing Papa’s Cat Café, The Savoy at 21c, The Benevolent King The Bitters Club Made Right Tools Jigger Pumpkin Pie-Spiced White Russian What to drink this month
cook
| 38 | | 40 |
heaLthy aPPetIte
Pumpkin-tahini breakfast muffins mystery shoPPer
Phool makhana
| 42 |
qUIck fIx
| 44 |
sweet Ideas
Smoky beer and sharp Cheddar soup Golden rum cake with walnuts
Volume 8
| Issue 10 | October 2018
Vice President of niche Publishing, Publisher of feast Magazine
Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com
sales
director of sales
Angie Henshaw, ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1298 account Manager, st. louis region
Michele Russo, mrusso@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1297 account Manager, Kansas city region
Pete Nicklin, pnicklin@feastmagazine.com, 785.431.8025 account Manager, Kansas city region
Briana Craemer, bcraemer@feastmagazine.com, 913.708.1283 sPecial Projects editor
Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1244
eDITORIal senior editor
Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Managing editor
Nancy Stiles, nstiles@feastmagazine.com digital editor
Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas city contributing editor
Jenny Vergara st. louis contributing editor
Mabel Suen fact checKer
Rose Hansen Proofreader
Erica Hunzinger contributing Writers
Christy Augustin, Jordan Baranowski, Ettie Berneking, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pete Dulin, Amanda Elliott, Ana Elliott, Natalie Gallagher, Rose Hansen, Becky Hardin, Hilary Hedges, Katherine Herrick, Lauren Miers, Justin Phelps, Daniel Puma, Lillian Stone, Jenn Tosatto
aRT
art director
Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Production designer
Kelly Glueck, kglueck@feastmagazine.com contributing PhotograPhers
Brandon Alms, Zach Bauman, Keith Borgmeyer, Judd Demaline, Ana Elliott, Becky Hardin, Jacklyn Meyer, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Drew Piester, Kristen Piper, Jonathan Pollack, Elaine Rohde, Jennifer Silverberg , Bruce Stidham, Madison Stringfellow, Mabel Suen, Emily Teater, Brad Zweerink
FeasT TV
producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios
COnTaCT Us Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1244, feastmagazine.com
DIsTRIbUTIOn To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Eric Freeman for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at efreeman@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2018 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC
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This month, my new national series, tasteMAKERS, hits public television stations across the country. Join me as I explore the maker movement from coast to coast and introduce you to the people who are defining the flavor of American cuisine. This show has been in the works for two years, and I developed the pilot episode around the story of Gary Hinegardner and the spirits he crafts at Wood Hat Spirits in New Florence, Missouri (pictured above right). The pilot served as the springboard for creating the first season, and I am indebted to Gary and Katie for welcoming the tasteMAKERS crew to the distillery and their home on those hot summer days in 2016. Head to wearetastemakers.com to see the pilot as well as the season one lineup of makers, and be sure to check your local listings for air dates and times.
publisher’s letter
W
e are a thirsty bunch. If you’re seeking a sip of an artisanal libation, no matter your taste, you’ll find options in bars, on grocery shelves and in tasting rooms across Missouri, Illinois and Kansas. Here at Feast, we focus a great deal of our content on the beverage industry. There are always new places popping up, new bottles being proffered and fresh flavors to enjoy. Every May, we dedicate an entire issue to the storied local wine industry and every fall we focus on craft beers, spirits and now ciders as well. Our annual The Year in Beer feature rounds up what’s new and notable in the local and regional craft-beer industry. Over the past year alone, we’ve seen 15 new breweries pop up, a testament to your thirst for unique, handcrafted and personal beers. Beginning on p. 54, you’ll also find 16 must-try beers from our industry experts and some big brewery news to give you something to warm your beer-loving soul in the chilly months to come. Beer has dominated the craft-beverage discussion for more than a decade, but spirits are gaining ground. In fact, craft spirits are the fastest-growing segment of the beverage industry and our region has no shortage of innovative, high-quality pours. One of the most interesting trends to emerge is farm distilling, where the distiller cultivates, harvests and mills
the grain and corn that are fermented to form the base of whatever spirit is being made, from bourbon to gin (p. 67). What seems like a new trend is actually a throwback to the way things used to be (as are most of the good things we eat and drink), when farmers would have their own small stills to distill ferments made on-site. Watch for this grain-to-glass distilling trend to evolve and expand into eau de vie and other fruit-based brandies. Finally (and also in the “what’s old is new again” category), we’re seeing a rise in cider production that’s bringing dry, complex ciders to pint glasses in the Midwest. Using heirloom apples that offer wonderful flavor and aroma, breweries and wineries have been dabbling in cider for years, but now a few dedicated cideries have joined the fray. On p. 50, we introduce you to Brick River Cider, where funky farmhouse styles meet fruity offerings, further expanding the incredible array of options to choose from when you want to raise a glass to the magic of fermentation. Until next time,
Catherine Neville
10.18 madison stringfellow St. Louis, Photographer “When meeting the creative minds behind Earthbound Satellite, I learned that they are truly masters of their craft. The head bartender, Ryan, blew me away with his knowledge of creating out-of-this-world cocktails using unique liquors and vibrant flavors. Since I’m pretty indecisive, he just asked me a few questions and knew exactly what to mix up! It’s a simple venue, but it’s all about having a personalized experience. I found it so interesting that to maintain the authenticity of the craft, the ingredient ratios aren’t defined, making each drink exclusive to the bartender. Even the paintings on the wall show the pure talent and passion that this place runs on!” (The Year in Beer, p. 54)
jordan baranowski Kansas City, Writer “Watching the Kansas City beer scene blow up over the past few years has been incredible, and it was great to sit down with Jonathan Williamson of Sandhills Brewing and speak about the soon-to-open second location. Downtown Mission, Kansas, is right in my backyard, so it was excellent to see how passionate and knowledgeable Jonathan is, and to discover what makes Sandhills stand out as it moves into the crowded brew scene in the Kansas City area. I can’t wait to relax with a glass of Flanders Red in the new space this winter.” (One on One, p. 27)
kristen piper Hutchinson, Kansas, Photographer “Sandhills Brewing owners (and twin brothers) Jonathan and Pippin Williamson are passionate about beer, and if you love it as much as they do, this microbrewery is the place to go in Hutchinson, Kansas. For our photo session, they gave me free rein to shoot whatever and wherever I liked, which makes freelance photographers happy. I’m not a beer drinker, but trust me: The lines of people waiting to taste and carry out beer are steady ones. Hutch can’t wait for the taproom expansion, where conversation and beer tasting will add to an already great experience. If you’re looking for that next unique beer, Sandhills Brewing offers a laid-back atmosphere and a chance to learn a bit about how beer is made.” (One on One, p. 27)
ettie berneking Springfield, Missouri, Writer “It seems like there’s always something new popping up in Springfield, Missouri, and over the past few years, what’s really been popping up are craft breweries. Downtown is basically a sea of local beer. Whatever your preference, there’s a beer to quench that thirst. There are brews with butternut squash, fresh-picked apples, roasted coffee beans, spicy peppers, coconut – you name it! And while some styles and flavors overlap from brewery to brewery, each spot offers its own charm and atmosphere. Even Show-Me Brewing, which started as a one-stop-shop for avid home brewers, has gotten into the game and now brews and sells its own beer on-site. It’s an exciting and delicious time to be a beer enthusiast in the Queen City!” (The Year in Beer, p. 54)
GIVE ‘EM WHAT THEY REALLY WANT This holiday season, let Q39 take care of all your catering needs–from office holiday parties to family get-togethers. We offer drop-off or full-service catering options to make sure no one goes hungry. Visit Q39KC.com/catering. Contact the location of your choice. Midtown: Shannon@Q39KC.com | South: Lisa@Q39KC.com 3 Q39 MIDTOWN 1000 W 39TH ST, KCMO | 816.255.3753 M–TH 11A–10P | F–SAT 11A–11P | SUN 11A–9P
Q39 SOUTH 11051 ANTIOCH RD, OPKS | 913.951.4500 0 M–SAT 11A–10P | SUN 11A–9P Inspired Local Food Culture
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KC
10/13 F I V E
C AT E G O R I E S
T O M A T O + M U S T A R D + H O T + V I N E G A R + S P E C I A LT Y
G R A N D
TO E N T E R
STL
PRESENTED BY
10/27
~presented by~ This program is partially supported by a grant from the Illinois Arts Council, a state agency.
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Kansas City, Missouri; powerandlightdistrict.com
Leinenkugel’s Leinie Lodge and Beer Garden presents Oktoberfest Live!, featuring authentic Oktoberfest contests and games, wiener dog races, seasonal beers, great food, prizes, live entertainment and more. Entry for the 21-plus event is $5 per person, but you can upgrade your experience with a Beer Lovers or VIP ticket. The Beer Lovers ticket is $25 and includes entry beginning at 4pm, a souvenir plastic stein and five 16-ounce draft beers. VIP includes early entry at 3pm, a private VIP food spread, five 16-ounce draft beers and a special VIP beer-tasting event from 3 to 5pm.
schnucks cooks: smoky Beer and sharp cheddar soup Wed., Oct. 24, 6 to 9pm; $45; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, 12332 Manchester Road, St. Louis; 314.909.1704; nourish.schnucks.com/schnucks-cooking-school
In this class, you’ll learn how to brûlée oats to top a simple and seasonal raw apple cake. You’ll also learn how to perfectly cook crispy and tender spicy chicken wings in the oven, plus make a smoky, cheesy, beer-spiked soup.
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Sat., Oct. 13, 4 to 8pm; $5 to $45; KC Live! Block, 1330 Grand Blvd., Power & Light District,
P R I Z E
10/24
10
okToBerfesT Live!
The GanG Brews a Bock Sat., Oct. 27, 12 to 10pm; free; White Rooster Farmhouse Brewery, 113 W. Jackson St., Sparta, Illinois; 618.449.2077; whiteroosterfarmhousebrewery.com
White Rooster Farmhouse Brewery is releasing its recently brewed Eisbock beer with a costumed Halloween celebration. The party will feature entertainment by DJ Masta Blasta and food from Spice of Life.
KC
11/2
Sticky Jar open Entries due Fri., Nov. 2; $20 per entry KCBS members, $30 per entry non-KCBS members; mailed to Kansas City Barbeque Society, 2519 Madison Ave., Kansas City, Missouri; 816.765.5891; spicinfoods.com/stickyjaropen
Spicin Foods and Kansas City Barbeque Society (KCBS) are teaming up for the second-annual Sticky Jar Open barbecue sauce competition. Got a handcrafted sauce you’re proud of? You could win the grand prize of a professionally produced batch of your sauce by Spicin Foods. Application forms, rules, registration and more info can be found at spicinfoods.com/stickyjaropen.
RECLAIM YOUR WEEKEND AT WESTPORT PLAZA BACKSTREET JAZZ & BLUES DINO’S DELI DRUNKEN FISH FUNNY BONE COMEDY CLUB FUZZY’S TACO SHOP GATEWAY NEWSTANDS
KC
11/3
annUal Wicked Wine Walk Sat., Nov. 3, 3pm; $35 to $55; The Kansas City Power & Light District, 1330 Grand Blvd., Kansas City, Missouri; 816.842.1045; powerandlightdistrict.com
Gather your witches and warlocks for the Annual Wicked Wine Walk at The Kansas City Power & Light District this fall. Sip, taste and explore along 14th Street, with live music, wine tastings and small plates at each of the participating venues, which include Bar Louie, Bristol Seafood Grill, The Chesterfield, County Road Ice House, Drunken Fish, The Garment District Boutique and more. Proceeds for this 21-plus event will benefit a local charity. VIP ticket holders gain early entry at 2pm.
HATS-N-STUFF IMOS PIZZA KOBE JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE MCDONALD’S PAUL MINEO’S TRATTORIA PLAYHOUSE @ WESTPORT PLAZA ROBATA WESTPORT - COMING SOON! SHERATON AT WESTPORT SMOOTHIE KING SAINT LOUIS BREAD COMPANY STARBUCKS TRAINWRECK SALOON WESTPORT SOCIAL
STL
11/3
Science Uncorked Sat., Nov. 3, 7 to 10pm; $45 to $100; Saint Louis Science Center, 5050 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, Missouri; 314.289.4400; slsc.org/uncorked
Explore the science behind wine and spirits. The Saint Louis Science Center’s annual Science Uncorked event for adults ages 21 and up features 80-plus wine and spirit samplings, small plates, science demonstrations, live music and more. VIP experience available.
Westport plaza presents
PARTIES ON THE PLAZA THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18 Sponsored by Bud Select LIVE MUSIC FROM PLATINUM ROCK LEGENDS
Intersection of I-270 and Page Avenue St. Louis, MO 314-576-7100 { westportstl.com }
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this month on
feastmagazine.com the feed
SPECIAL GIVEAWAY
PhotograPhy by ana Elliott
We’re giving away a pair of tickets for the ViP experience (valued at $100) at science uncorked on sat., nov. 3 at the saint louis science center! Just head to the Promotions section at feastmagazine.com for all the details.
PhotograPhy courtEsy shakE shack
Now open in Springfield, Missouri, Black Market Smokehouse specializes in classic Southern ’cue. In addition to staples like brisket and ribs, you’ll find creative options like Memphis-style barbecue spaghetti.
KC Shake Shack has hit Kansas City, serving the brand’s beloved smashed burgers alongside a few items specific to the KC location, including a concrete blended with an entire slice of pie from Ashleigh’s Bake Shop in Westport.
Josh Rein has been with Logboat Brewing Co. since the beginning. We caught up with the head brewer to chat about Stag, chili-cheese dogs at Mugs Up Drive-In and experimenting with wine yeast.
PhotograPhy by amanda WilEns
Photo by aaron ottis
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Logan Ely has debuted a new tasting menu experience in St. Louis. The chef, formerly of Square1 Project supper club, has opened Savage in Fox Park, serving dishes like this fermented potato tart with Penicillium and ants.
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Peruvian Dining
in SpringField MO
NEW
Fun Food, Happy People, Great Drinks!
Weekday Brunch
DUTCH FUSION 106 N. Main St. • Edwardsville 618.307.4830 • clevelandheath.com 11:00-close, Sat Mon–ThuMon-Fri 11am–10pm, Fri10:00-close 11am–11pm, Offering Saturday brunch • First Come - First Serve (No reservations) Sat 10am–11pm, Sun 10am-8pm We Do Not Take Reservations
First Come - First Serve (No reservations)
334 E Commercial St.,Springfield, MO 417.344.0085 | vangoghseeterie.com
234 East Commercial St, Springfield, MO 417.868.8088 | www.cafecusco.com
816-474-8333 thehomesteadercafe.com Tuesday – Friday | 10am -2pm | Weekends 8am-2pm
Serving Brunch Saturday & Sundays 10am-1pm
distinCtive hand-Crafted Beer and wine
Charleville Brewing CoMPanY
2101 Chouteau Ave, St. Louis, MO 63103 314.241.4677 charlevillebeer.com
Charleville vineYard & MiCroBrew
16937 Boyd Rd., Ste. Genevieve, MO 63670 573.756.4537 charlevillevineyard.com
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episode: coffee & donuts
ON THESE NETWORKS
In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Mondays at 8:30pm.
In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Saturdays at 5:30pm and Sundays at 7:30am.
You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Saturdays at 10am.
Peanut butter and jelly. Mac ‘n’ cheese. Chips and salsa. Some things were made for each other, and in this episode, we explore the all-American partnership of coffee and donuts. Host Cat Neville’s first stop is at Fretboard Coffee in Columbia, Missouri, where coffee is roasted on-site and brewed in a range of fun and forward ways. We have to pair this coffee with a donut, right? In St. Louis, Vincent Van Doughnut is making artisan donuts and pastries that are almost too good to dunk. Rounding out the episode is a visit to Thou Mayest Coffee Roasters in Kansas City, where coffee and cocktails encourage conversation, and a stop in Cat’s kitchen to make potato donuts with a coffee glaze.
Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) Mondays at 12:30pm.
feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:
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Missouri Wines supports the more than 125 wineries operating in the state and is focused on promoting the industry’s growth and vitality.
Kaldi’s Coffee is dedicated to creating a memorable coffee experience for customers and guests via sustainable practices and education.
Ole Tyme Produce provides some of the finest produce in the St. Louis region, serving restaurants, hotels, food service and catering companies.
The Raphael Hotel is Feast’s official hotel, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.
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Feast TV’s new season will airs in the Springfield region on Ozarks Public Television. Check your local listings for airdates.
Check mylaketv.com to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.
Have BBQ. Will Travel. CATERING SERVICES FOR ANY OCCASION Corporate Lunches Corporate Events Seminars Weddings Birthdays Graduations
CELEBRATING KANSAS CIT Y AND GOOD OLD FASHIONED MIDWEST COOKING
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*Visit our original location Rye Leawood at 10551 Mission Rd. Leawood, KS 66206 (913) 642-5800
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You’ll Find Our Patio Seating Above the Rest One S. Broadway | St. Louis, Missouri | 314.241.8439 | 360-stl.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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mix and matcha
Get your matcha fix in more than lattes on p. 18. photography by emily teater
matcha Green tea is packed with antioxidants and nutrients. Matcha, made of ground, tender green-tea leaves, is used in lattes and smoothies, but chefs are also using it in eats to add a mint color and earthy flavor. Written by natalie GallaGher PhotoGraPhy by emily teater
Beignet bao stuffed with matcha ice cream
Bao
Novel KanSaS City. Jessica Armstrong, pastry chef and co-owner
at Kansas City’s Novel, has been working with matcha in her desserts for years. She’s found myriad ways to introduce the ingredient, from green tea cookies to matcha tiramisu. “Right now, I think it's popular partly because of the color – it makes a really pretty picture for the ‘gram,” she says with a laugh. “Also, if you read about it, it's also really good for you. Since you're eating the entire leaf, you’re getting a ton of amino acids. You can feel better about eating a matcha dessert, basically.” To bring out the earthy, slightly sweet flavor of the matcha, Armstrong wanted to introduce some rich dark chocolate to the menu. Her chocolate-matcha dessert starts with a decadent flourless cake, which Armstrong tops with a matcha-lime mousse made with matcha powder, lime juice, Valrhona white chocolate and whipping cream, topped with candied pistachio to bring out the mint color. 1927 McGee St., Kansas City, Missouri, novelkc.com
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Clayton, mo. At Bao in Clayton, Missouri, matcha helps reinvent a classic dessert. On the breakfast menu, you’ll find the beignet bao: A traditional Chinese steamed bun (the same kind used in all the savory bao at the restaurant) is flash-fried and quickly tossed in matcha powder and powdered sugar, then served hot, just like a beignet in New Orleans. If you’re looking to elevate the experience, go ahead and get the ice cream bao: a beignet bao stuffed with matcha ice cream. “I love matcha because it adds an umami and creamy flavor to something without adding dairy,” says Ocean Alexander, floor manager at Bao. “The dishes here are pretty well-balanced. There's no dish that's extremely spicy or sweet, and matcha lends itself to that same ideation. For anyone looking to try something new and a little unique, matcha is a good start. It's got a subtle flavor; despite the color, it’s not spooky. It's fun.”
14 N. Central, Clayton, Missouri, thebaostl.com
europeaN Café SPrinGFielD, mo. At European Café in Springfield, Missouri,
owner Uliana Komodi fills her cases with dainty French macarons – with a major exception. The jumbo matcha macaron is more like a mini-layer cake: Two 4-inch delicate pink raspberry shells are filled with a whipped matcha-white chocolate ganache, then finished with raspberries around the outside rim. “As an ingredient, matcha’s not that difficult to work with,” Komodi says. “The trick is just to not overheat it, otherwise it gets a very bitter aftertaste.” To make the brilliant lime-colored powder, shade-grown green tea leaves are collected whole and finely milled rather than dried out. Chlorophyll in the tea leaves results in a grassy flavor that Komodi describes as an acquired taste. “We also serve matcha lattes and teas, and we recommend getting acquainted with the flavor that way,” she adds. 207 Park Central East, Springfield, Missouri, 417europeancafe.com
on
ne
n eo o
mo
COCKTAIL SERIES
q&a
GIN & TONIC
AVAILABLE NOW pinckneybend.com
michael felts owner, taco habitat
Written By Katherine herricK
|
PhotograPhy By Bruce Stidham
branson, Mo. Sustainability is a concern for any farm-to-table restaurateur.
michael Felts has embraced this movement in food and taken it even further with Taco Habitat. the upcoming restaurant will use not only organic and local ingredients, but the actual building itself is constructed out of recycled shipping containers and the interior features recycled and repurposed materials. Felts wants the restaurant model to be repeatable with other types of cuisine – think donut habitat or Burger habitat – and in addition to the flagship location in Branson, missouri, he’s planning to open several locations in Springfield, missouri, later this year, as well as San antonio and austin, texas. What makes Taco Habitat environmentally friendly?
Pretty much everything we’re using in our facility is made from, or still is, a material or product used before or recycled. our building is made from shipping containers, and then our floor coverings and wall coverings are all made from recycled glass, car tires, furniture or reclaimed wood.
not as much reclaimed wood as we originally had anticipated, because a lot of it actually has adverse effects as far as the chemicals [for treating the wood]. there are a lot of byproducts on that that are actually dangerous to the environment. So we do have some reclaimed wood, but it’s not stuff that has to be treated. other countries have parking lots made of various recycled materials that actually last longer, hold up better and look more appealing than what we have here in the u.S., and we’ve been researching that, but the materials and the processes aren’t readily available to us yet. Do you apply your sustainability practices to the food as well? yes, we’re trying to use as many locally sourced products as possible. We want to use as much organic, certified humane, non-gmo – pretty much all the catchphrases, for lack of a better term, that are out there. Tell us about the menu. We’ll have tacos, tortas, quesadillas, burritos, burrito bowls, taco bowls, nachos, fajitas and some other things that will change in and out, such as arepas, some mango and watermelon salsas, different fish tacos, stuff like that. What’s your favorite dish? my favorite thing on the menu is the corn tortilla street tacos. We’re going to have quite a selection of those with different salsas to go on them. Tell us about your future expansion plans. i created business plans for about seven different habitat concepts, so we’re not sure which one we’re going to launch next. taco habitat is obviously the first; the others range from a hibachi grill to burgers, to one that’s like a Starbucks meets andy’s Frozen custard meets a hurts donuts all rolled into one. i’ve got it narrowed down to two for the next one, and it’ll be the same thing: cargo containers, recycled stuff, repurposed stuff, fresh ingredients, never frozen – well, unless it’s custard. then it’ll be frozen! 600 W. Main St., Branson, Missouri, facebook.com/habitatrestaurants
“Premium quality produce and specialty products from around the world and around the corner” Sunfarm Food Service • Saint Louis, MO • 314.241.1288 • sunfarmfs.com Download our app by searching ‘sunfarm’ in your app store
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where we’re dining From new restaurants to renewed menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining this month.
Pearl Tavern WrItten by Jenny VerGara photoGraphy by anna petroW
lee’S SUMMiT, Mo. restaurateurs andy lock
and domhnall molloy have managed to open six restaurants in six years: now, with help from culinary director and chef po Wang and executive chef Ken long, they’ve opened their seventh and perhaps most personal restaurant, Pearl Tavern. (lock and molloy met working at mcCormick and schmick’s, after all.) the seafood spot in lee’s summit, missouri, features a menu full of coastal fare. start with blue-crab dip, calamari, ahi tuna poke tacos, ceviche or fresh oysters on the half shell. order the day’s incredibly fresh fish grilled or blackened with mashed potatoes and asparagus; other standouts include scallops atop creamed-corn grits with bacon jam and chayote squash, and cioppino. to drink, try a “crush,” colorful cocktails made with fresh-squeezed fruit juice and liquor in flavors like strawberry-basil or cherry limeade. 1672 NW Chipman Road, Lee’s Summit, Missouri, pearltavernkc.com
le bao WrItten by KatherIne herrICK
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photoGraphy by aaron ottIs
ColUMBiA, Mo. It’s all about simple snacks for Jina yoo at her
newest restaurant, Le Bao, in Columbia, missouri. after the success of Jina yoo’s asian bistro, she’s marrying american comfort food with the traditional asian street foods she loved as a kid – whether that’s Japanese, Vietnamese or thai – in the north Village arts district. le bao serves a variety of savory and sweet bao buns, which yoo likens to Korean-style sliders. yoo’s steamed buns are far from traditional, though: think chicken pot pie, philly cheesesteak, bánh mì, meatball marinara, fried shrimp and her personal favorite, fried chicken. try sweet buns with flavors such as bananas Foster or the seasonal apple pie. yoo says le bao brings a new style of snack fare to Columbia, and she describes the fast-casual model as "user-friendly." Grab a bun to-go, or stay a while to snack. 1009 Park Ave., Columbia, Missouri, lebaoasianeatery.com
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bakers & hale story and photos by mabel suen
godfrey, il. a veteran of the st. louis restaurant
scene recently put down roots in Godfrey, Illinois. Chef-owner rex hale – who previously ran four restaurants including boundary and 360 st. louis under lodging hospitality management – recently debuted Bakers & Hale, a fresh, farm-to-table concept with longtime employee, friend and Illinois resident Kelsi baker Walden. at the casual family eatery, guests can expect to find rustic american comfort food highlighted by hale’s signature
devotion to locally procured ingredients. In addition to produce grown in the on-site garden, hale and Walden work with a variety of area purveyors to inspire their ever-evolving offerings. highlights from the inaugural menu include small plates such as heirloom tomatoes with marcoot Jersey Creamery mozzarella, herbs and white-wine vinaigrette, and entrées like smoked beef brisket with a pickled beet and goat cheese salad. this fall, look forward to a harvest-driven menu that changes with the seasons. 7120 Montclair Ave., Godfrey, Illinois, bakershale.com
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Fresh Brews on Tap
Vineyard Tours • Wine Tasting • Craft Beers • AirBnB
Olive Tree Written by Jenny Vergara
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photography by anna petroW
OVERLAND PARK, KS. When Mindy riley opened Olive Tree in overland park, Kansas, in 2011, she thought her business would center around talking to people about the benefits of olive oil and flavorful balsamic vinegars, which can elevate everything from cocktails to condiments. however, today her business has evolved into hosting cooking classes and developing recipes to showcase her products. this spring, she relocated her shop to add a full demo kitchen and student classroom space; olive tree hosts several cooking classes a month featuring both well-known local chefs and up-and-coming amateur cooks. regular instructors include chef Jasper Mirabile of Jasper’s italian restaurant, celebrity baker and pastry chef JC gregg and chef Jim tinkham. in addition to classes, the new location includes an even larger selection of extra virgin, infused and flavored olive oils from around the world, plus aged balsamic vinegars from Modena, italy. Customers can also shop for complementary products like sea salts, flavored pastas, sauces, tapenades, jarred olives and beautiful kitchen accessories.
7044 W. 105th St., Overland Park, Kansas, olivetreekc.com
n a rt i sa ct produ
bijoux chocolates Written by Daniel puMa
BALLWIN, MO. Chocolatier Meggie ladendecker launched Bijoux Chocolates in april in ballwin, Missouri, featuring a selection of treats mostly made with 66-percent single-origin Caribbean cocoa beans. ladendecker crafts painted and molded bonbons with flavors such as raspberry and salted caramel; keep an eye out for more unique options inspired by fun cocktails like a tequila Sunrise or gin and tonic. Chocolates can be ordered through bijoux's website, including custom flavors for special occasions. look for bijoux Chocolates to show up in St. louis-area stores and markets later this year.
bijouxchocolates.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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q&a
nick martinkovic chef-owner, noah’s cupboard Written By natalie GallaGher
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PhotoGraPhy By anna PetroW
WESTON, MO. Chef Nick Martinkovic named his debut restaurant, Noah’s Cupboard, for
his 21-month-old son – well, mostly. The 500-square-foot space in downtown Weston, Missouri, is also “cupboard-sized,” Martinkovic jokes, and used to be home to both a soap store and a smoothie shop. Martinkovic, who arrived in the Kansas City area earlier this year after runs at St. Louis restaurants like Central Table Food Hall and Blood & Sand, opened Noah’s Cupboard in June, with a globally influenced, seasonal and locally sourced menu available Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. Tell us about the menu. I’d say the menu is global. It’s American, in theory, but it’s a blend of things that I grew up with and things that I was blessed to be exposed to throughout my own culinary journey. There’s a pierogi on the menu because my grandmother was Slavic, and I can remember the dining room being covered with dough; I learned to make pierogis from watching her. I learned how to make fresh pasta at Roberta’s in New York, which is still the best place to get pasta, in my opinion. The menu is also peppered with Asian-inspired dishes, because I love cooking with those flavors. Where do you source your ingredients? Ingredients are as local as possible. The beef is wagyu from KC Cattle Co., located four and a half miles from Noah’s Cupboard, and owned by a guy named Patrick Montgomery. We went up to see the farm, and the cows might as well be pets. We use David’s Pasture in Concordia, Missouri, for a lot of other proteins and dairy. Our greens are from Missing Ingredient, an urban hydroponic garden in Kansas City; we get our tomatoes from Nature’s Choice, just half an hour away. We try sourcing the best ingredients, and lucky for me, some of the best ingredients happen to be coming an
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hour or two away from the restaurant. Noah’s Cupboard seats 20 – why did you want such a small space? I’ve spent my whole career working in larger places. Roberta’s was 500 or 600 covers a night, plating food with tweezers. Central Table was 10,000 square feet, and it was a great learning experience, but it’s a beast to run on a daily basis. At Noah’s Cupboard, my wife does everything in [the] front of house, I do all the cooking, and we have one or two other employees. I prep everything and make everything. I know every piece of parsley that I have on hand. I’m the person who cooks everything, from start to finish. It feels very honest, the way people eat here. What’s the most difficult part of running a restaurant this size? Right now, it’s managing reservations. We strongly recommend making reservations, because we don’t want anyone to get in the car and make that drive to Weston, only to be told they’re not going to be able eat here. We have a chef’s counter and a few smaller tables, so depending on the size of the group, it feels like a game of Tetris. We don’t really have a waiting area, so it’s not like you can go sit at our bar and have a drink. We absolutely take walk-ins if we can fit them, though. Do you have plans to expand? Lots of people who come in and eat here say things like, “You won’t be here for long, you’ll move into something bigger.” As far as the longevity of this, it’s really about how long I want to do it, and I’m having a blast right now. Eventually, I won’t want to be the only person cooking, and whole the idea of Noah’s Cupboard is me there cooking, so I feel like for me to move or become bigger, the concept will change. Right now, I’m just happy doing what we’re doing. 521 Main St., Weston, Missouri, eatnoahscupboard.com
[
Get hip to parSnipS
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ParsniPs helP balance the body and the brain With dr. adetunji toriola Washington University assistant professor of surgery and researcher at Siteman Cancer Center
Writing off parsnips simply as white carrots isn’t just scientifically incorrect. It greatly undersells this versatile root vegetable. Parsnips are related to carrots and parsley, but their nutritional benefits are arguably better than either one of them. Their taste is earthy, sweet and nutty, and they work just as beautifully in heavier dishes like stews and pot pies as they do roasted with a simple drizzle of olive oil for an elegant side dish. Parsnips are good sources of vitamin C, and they contain high levels of magnesium, folate and potassium — vitamins and minerals that do crucially important work when it comes to keeping the body and the brain efficiently communicating and operating at its very best. “Magnesium helps regulate muscle and nerve function, regulate blood pressure and control blood glucose,” says Dr. Adetunji Toriola, an assistant professor of surgery at Washington University School of Medicine in St. Louis. Just one cup of parsnips can account for up to 10 percent of the recommended daily intake of folate. “Folate is very necessary for normal cellular function,” Toriola says. “A deficiency in folate can lead to anemia, which affects red blood cells in the body, and some studies have suggested that folate deficiency may lead to cancer. It is essential to maintaining the normal balance of brain and body functions.”
As we start our slide into the colder months, parsnips are getting ready to shine. That’s because they contain a relatively high amount of sugar for a vegetable. But that sweetness doesn’t kick in until after the season’s first frost, when the starches inside parsnips turn into sugar. Their sweetness only deepens with each successive frost — a silver lining to remember as temperatures begin to plunge. Parsnips’ sugar content also means they’re excellent natural sources of energy. They are low in calories but high in fiber, two important qualities for keeping weight in check. “With parsnips, you get the benefit of feeling full without the body taking in things it doesn’t need, like unhealthy snacks in between meals. Maintaining a healthy weight and adding vegetables and fruits into your diet is a great way to reduce cancer and chronic disease risk,” Toriola says. When picking out parsnips, look for ones that are smaller in size — these will be the sweetest. They should be ivory in color with few spots, cuts or dents. Parsnips lend a sweet, creamy quality to soups and stews, and they can also be mashed like potatoes. Thanks to their sweetness and hints of spice and even banana, parsnips work surprisingly well in desserts: Think carrot cake with character.
Sweet & Spicy potato parSnip Bake Yields | 8 ServIngS |
2 2 ¼ ¼ 1½ 2 2 2 2 ¼
cups Yukon gold potatoes, diced cups parsnips, peeled and diced cup unsalted butter cup white whole wheat flour cup 2% milk Tbsp stone ground mustard Tbsp honey Tbsp white wine vinegar slices whole grain bread, processed to crumbs cup Parmesan cheese, shredded
| preparation | Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bring about 8 cups of water to a boil in a large pot. Put the potatoes and parsnips into the boiling water, then bring to a simmer for 5 minutes. Drain, then place the potatoes and parsnips into an 8 x 11.5 greased baking dish. Melt the butter in a small saucepan, then add flour and cook for 2 minutes. Gradually, add milk and stir constantly, until it has thickened — about 5 minutes. Add more flour if needed. Add mustard, honey and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper as desired. Pour sauce over potatoes and parsnips. Process slices of bread to crumbs, then mix with cheese. Sprinkle the crumb and cheese mixture over the potatoes and parsnips. Bake in oven for 35 to 40 minutes, or until top is crisp and lightly browned. nutrition Information| Per half cup: 202 calories, 8g fat, 98mg sodium, 27g carbohydrate, 2g fiber, 5g protein
This tough-as-nails parsnip is a great choice for home gardeners who are short on space or have rocky soil: While many kinds of parsnips grow deep roots, Avonresisters’ are relatively shallow. The “resister” part of their name is on point. Avonresisters combat parsnip canker, a common disease caused by fungus that shows up as dark patches on the root. The shorter the root, the less risk of canker and the greater chance of an easy growing experience — perfect for novices.
all-american “As American as parsnips” doesn’t quite have the same ring as “apple pie” — particularly because this vegetable is more commonly found on tables in the United Kingdom than it is in the United States. But the kind of parsnip known as All-American is so mild and creamy, it just might inspire enthusiastic flag waving and fireworks. The All-American has a sweet flavor even if it’s harvested in the fall — most other parsnips don’t reach their peak until winter. Add it to soups and salads for an earthy, nutty flavor.
cobham imProved marroW Cobham Improved Marrow parsnips stand out from the rest because of their high sugar content. Though most parsnips impart an earthy taste, these are quite sweet and carry hints of coconut. Double down on that sweetness by using Cobham Improved Marrow in desserts or glazing them with brown sugar. Their flavor only gets better with each hard frost — patience will be rewarded with a creamy, melt-in-your-mouth texture.
harris model Tender and sweet with a long, slim shape, the Harris Model is considered the top parsnip by many gardeners. The flesh is smooth, white and not as coarse as other varieties, so Harris Models work particularly well as mashed parsnips — an unexpected twist on everyday mashed potatoes (and just as easy to prepare). Though they can be harvested in the fall, Harris Model parsnips reach their full potential after freezing temperatures convert the vegetables’ stored starch into sugar.
student The Student parsnip was actually developed by a professor of agriculture back in the mid-1800s. He spent years selecting and crossbreeding parsnips that had desirable traits, such as strong roots and leaves. A decade later the professor was finally satisfied with his result, the heirloom variety now known as the Student. even today it is prized for its consistently good yield, smooth skin, and the fortitude to stand up to disease and Inspired the elements. Local Food Culture o c to be r 2 018 23
Introducing our new red blend
OZARK HELLBENDER A portion of proceeds from each bottle of Stone Hill Winery’s Ozark Hellbender sold will be donated back to the Saint Louis Zoo and hellbender conservation
Purchase at local retailers or online Hermann, MO • 800-909-9463 • stonehillwinery.com 24
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all hail the king
A progressive bar menu complements Moroccan-inspired fare at The Benevolent King in Maplewood, Missouri, on p. 28. photography by mabel suen
Bon Bon LAWRENCE, KS. At bon bon in Lawrence, Kansas, you
can pair steamed buns or cheesy tots with one of the restaurant’s “Potions,” which can be served with or without alcohol. The drinks are designed to appeal to those who want a booze-free option that’s still unique and sophisticated, and general manager Ryan Bowersox says they help make the restaurant accessible to all. The best-selling Unicorn Soda is a bright-pink number with prickly pear syrup, cream and club soda, garnished with sprinkles; another favorite is the Chai Soda with chai tea concentrate syrup, cinnamon, orange juice, coconut milk and club soda. “All people deserve wonderful experiences when they go out to eat,” she says. “That’s why we do it – to feel pampered, to have a different experience.”
non-alcoholic
cocktails Move over, mocktails: There’s nothing to scoff at when it comes to non-alcoholic cocktails. In an effort to elevate the dining and drinking experience for those who choose not to imbibe, bartenders are using housemade shrubs, tinctures, syrups and more to shake up creative drinks that are just as thoughtful – and delicious – as their boozy cousins. Written by heather riske
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804 Pennsylvania st., Lawrence, kansas, bonbonlawrence.com
PhotograPhy by zach bauman
Gram & Dun KANSAS CITY. gram & Dun launched its non-alcoholic
cocktail program about two years ago; bar manager Jacob Bowyer says the restaurant plays host to a lot of celebrations, and he wanted everyone to be able to join in on the fun. The Strawberry Blonde is the star of the program, featuring a housemade strawberry-ginger shrub, rhubarb, lemon juice and ginger beer, while The Garden Party mimics agua fresca flavors with cucumber, basil syrup, mint, lemon and a splash of Topo Chico. “You’re trying to craft something that has that same balance and on-point flavors without alcohol,” he says. Look for three new booze-free seasonal cocktails to drop next month. 600 Ward Pkwy., kansas city, missouri, gramanddun.com
Planter’s House ST. LOUIS. Since opening in Lafayette Square in 2013, Planter’s house has solidified its reputation as one of the best spots for craft cocktails in St. Louis. But the bar team’s creative approach extends to non-drinkers, too: In addition to house cocktails, classics, new classics and bottled cocktails, you’ll find a short but sweet list of non-alcoholic offerings. These range from the Berry Temple, a twist on the classic made with berry shrub, housemade grenadine and lemon-lime soda, to the playfully named 24 Carrot Magic with carrot-turmeric juice, lemon, Coco Rico coconut soda and ginger cordial.
1000 mississippi ave., st. Louis, missouri, plantershousestl.com
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Chai Soda
Unicorn Soda
ON
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YOUR FAVORITE SPORTS BAR & FAMILY RESTAURANT
q&A
mo for
re than 38 yea
W I N E R Y
rs
NEWEST LOCATION
jonathan williamson co-owner, sandhills brewing Written by Jordan baranoWski
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PhotograPhy by kristin PiPer
COMING TO ST. PETERS TO ST. PETERS
MISSOURI NOVEMBER 2018
HUTCHINSON, KS. While experimenting with homebrewing, Jonathan Williamson was inspired to open a brewery. after two years of planning with his brother Pippin, he combined their brewing know-how with business experience to take their operation to the next level. Sandhills Brewing debuted in hutchinson, kansas, in april with a focus on oak-fermented and specialty beers; the name refers to the windblown sand hills that form the nearby hutchinson dune tract. Currently, sandhills is only able to sell 16-ounce cans and growler fills to go, but the Williamson brothers are set to open a satellite location by the end of the year in downtown Mission, kansas, which will include a taproom.
Why did you want to open a brewery in Hutchinson? We actually grew up near hutchinson, and Pippin owned the building already for his business. We spent two years building it out and were finally able to open in april. We hope to have a hutchinson taproom open by the end of the year. it should open right around the same time as the Mission location. What drew the two of you to Mission? downtown Mission feels like an up-and-coming small town. the city itself is putting a ton of work into the area, and it feels very friendly and walkable. We like the sense of community in the area and think we can add to it. Tell us about your beers.
Our specialty is mixed-culture fermentation in oak barrels. It’s a slow, artisanal process that helps us create and develop new flavors in our beers.
initially, we showcase the character of the barrel in the beer, whether it’s whiskey, Port or something else; we use a variety of wine and spirit barrels. With each batch, the beer takes on less and less barrel flavor, and the barrels soon become a vehicle for the culture. this means each of our beers’ flavors develop over time, and each individual barrel can produce a dramatically different flavor experience. What are your favorite Sandhills beers? Chickadee berliner Weisse is a good choice. it’s light but full-flavored, tart and very complex. For a bit more approachable experience, barred owl scottish export. it’s our lightest, easy-to-drink beer. it looks a lot darker than it tastes. My go-to is our Junco new england iPa – soft and fruity [with] low bitterness. My favorite specialty beer is our Flanders red, a barrel-aged sour red ale. Any plans for distribution? initially, we probably won’t have the production volume to regularly distribute, so you’ll need to come by one of our taprooms to get a taste of our beer. We’re looking forward to joining the kansas City craft-brewing community, and we’re very excited to working with other breweries in the area to continue the growth of the kansas City brewing culture.
2018
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BEST WINERY St. Louis region For information regarding Weddings/Private Events, email us at info@wildsunwinery.com
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new drink season Our
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111 W. Second Ave., Ste. D., Hutchinson, Kansas, sandhillsbrewing.com
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where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, restaurants, breweries, wineries and coffee shops. Lark a’Fare Written by Jenny Vergara
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photography by zach bauman
LAWRENCE, KS. craft cocktails are firmly the focus at Lark a’Fare, the
midwestern-inspired casual-dining spot that opened in the former port Fonda space in Lawrence, Kansas, this summer. general manager Kyle bennett is responsible for the refreshing cocktail menu, which runs the gamut from classics to inventive seasonal sippers. the menu shows the breadth of bennett’s versatility, bolstered by time behind the bars at bluestem and the monarch in Kansas city. the cocktail list is organized into punches and sours; highballs; old Fashioneds and cocktails; and classics. try From ashes to immortality, with house-blended rye whiskey, Spanish dry vermouth, italian amaro, demerara, housemade orange bitters and citrus ash. Four housemade spirit-free cocktails are also available, including the refreshing pinky promise, with raspberry, orange blossom, lemon, aquafaba and sparkling water. Sip your drink alongside a few small plates like bierocks, smoked wings, flavorful flatbreads and sunflower-pistachio hummus. 900 New Hampshire St., Lawrence, Kansas, larkafare.com
PaPa’s CaT CaFé Written by Lauren mierS
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photography by aaron ottiS
COLUMBIA, MO. inspired by the eccentric cat cafés of Japan, Papa’s Cat Café serves a selection of drinks and treats with a side of feline fun. guests can eat, drink and play in a café full of cats, all of which are available for adoption. the layout includes a cat-free area where menu items are prepared, and guests with allergies can observe the cats through a viewing window. (two separate hVac systems keep cat-free zones free of dander.) Lengua de gatos, the café’s signature Spanish-inspired snack, pairs butter cookies with a warm chocolate-churro dipping sauce. try papa’s tasty treats alongside a warm cup of tea or hot chocolate; papa’s also serves a full espresso menu using local roaster Fretboard coffee as well as cold brew and other chilled beverages, like juice and lemonade. While papa’s isn’t byoc (bring your own cat), it is byob: For a small corking fee, guests can bring their own wine, beer or other libations.
14 S. Second St., Columbia, Missouri, papascatcafe.com
The BenevoLenT king Story and photography by mabeL Suen
MAPLEWOOD, MO. at The Benevolent King in maplewood, missouri, “drink czar” tony Saputo presents a progressive beverage program to complement chef-owner ben poremba’s unique moroccan-inspired fare; the resulting set of refreshing offerings is fit for a king,. to create drinks to match the dining room’s eccentric yet elegant environs, Saputo draws creative inspiration from the concept’s namesake, King mohammed Vi of morocco, a ruler known for his outgoing personality and over-the-top wardrobe. each regally named concoction is engineered as an interactive experience that shifts continuously from the first sip to the last, revealing a veritable bouquet of flavors. the amir, for instance, is one such dynamic mix, made with ransom dry gin, montanaro rouge Vermouth, crème de cassis, limoncello, Fernet-Vallet, black-lemon bitters and cucumber.
7268 Manchester Road, Maplewood, Missouri, thebenevolentking.com
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Gerard’s Restaurant
Rich in Culinary Tradition Proudly Serving St. Louis for 23 Years
Made To oRdeR Steaks Pasta Oysters Fresh Fish Colonnade Center 1153 Colonnade Center | Des Peres 314-821-7977 | stlgerards.net
The BiTTers CluB Written by Liz MiLLer er
photo by kat wooten StudioS
photo by keLLy gLueck ueck
NEW FRANKLIN, MO. Marcel van eeden is hoping to mix things up with his new business, The Bitters Club. Although not a bartender by trade, van eeden is a cocktail enthusiast who enjoys experimenting with drinks at home. based out of a commercial kitchen in new Franklin, Missouri, just outside of columbia, the bitters club sells aromatic and floral bitters, cocktail syrups and mixers and spice blends for making your own bitters at home. the aromatic bitters are made with a blend of 26 herbs, spices and fruits, plus bourbon, brandy, gin and vodka. Sold in five-ounce bottles, the bitters start sweet on the palate and finish with a spicy kick. to make bitters at home, spice blends currently come in orange, aromatic, lime and chile flavors, as well as efflorescent, which van eeden describes as having a floral character. the blends come with simple recipes: For example, the lime bitters can be mixed with vodka, rum and fresh lime zest. the bitters club’s newest offerings are its lavender-amaro syrup, smoked orange cocktail mixer, classic Margarita cocktail mixer, smoked old Fashioned mixer and hibiscus-whiskey sour, each sold in eight-ounce bottles. products are currently available online, at the columbia Farmers Market and at barred owl butcher & table in columbia, and served in cocktails at barred owl, Flyover and Drinkraft.
Knowledge Good
Apple Brandy BATCH 1
bittersclub.com
n a rt i sa t c produ
Weddings, Wines & Vines 13875 S. Gardner road | 913.484.6251 | kcwineco.com
RELEASE
made right tools jigger Written by Jenny VergArA
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photo by zAch bAuMAn
LEE’S SUMMIT, MO. every bartender counts on having the right tools for the right job. Mike Strohm, lead bartender, general manager and partner at the W in Lee’s Summit, Missouri, has designed what he calls a “lifetime jigger,” perfect for use by professional bartenders and home cocktail-lovers alike. each Made Right Tools jigger is machined from a solid piece of food-grade stainless steel and weighted for excellent balance. the interior features lines for standard measurements; the jiggers are available in polished stainless, brass plated, copper plated and black chrome. each comes with a lifetime warranty protecting against deformity and breakage. Find the jiggers at the W or Libations & co. in Lee's Summit, as well as online through the latter’s website.
facebook.com/maderighttools
Oct 5th, 6:30pm at The fi rs t Ex per imental Spir it to come to fr uition!
10 0 0 S 4 t h St • 314 .513 .22 75 • s t il l 630 .c om Inspired Local Food Culture
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Story, recipe and photography by becky hardin
PumPkin Pie-SPiced White RuSSian It's easy to find premade pumpkin spice creamer this time of year. However, you can make your own in just a few minutes to kick your cocktail up a notch.
pumpkin spice creamer
heavy cream Tbsp maple syrup Tbsp pumpkin purée tsp pumpkin pie spice
rim 1 tsp pumpkin pie spice 1 tsp granulated sugar 3 Tbsp crushed graham crackers White russian 3 oz vodka 3 oz pumpkin spice creamer (recipe below) 1½ oz Kahlúa whipped cream, for garnish pumpkin pie spice, for garnish
| preparation – pumpkin spice creamer | in a medium saucepot, whisk together all ingredients and bring to a boil. boil for 1 minute; remove from heat at let cool at least 5 minutes.
| preparation – rim | on a shallow plate, combine all ingredients. dip the edge of two rocks glasses in water and then dip into the graham cracker mixture. press to coat; set glasses aside. | preparation – white russian | in a cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine vodka, creamer and kahlúa. Shake lightly until combined and cold. Strain into glasses with ice, top with whipped cream and a sprinkle of pumpkin pie spice and serve.
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Fall is my favorite time of year for many reasons, including the arrival of pumpkin season! These days, pumpkin spice products have become ubiquitous; I like to embrace the moment by coming up with fun and different ways to infuse pumpkin into my cooking and cocktails, and this pumpkin pie-spiced White Russian is my new go-to autumn sip. Our friends and family love this festive drink because it’s creamy, super simple and pretty for fall. It’s a great drink to serve at holiday parties or just at home on a crisp evening. I plan to have a pumpkin pie-spiced White Russian in my hand as we take our son, Henry, trick or treating for the first time this year. Crunchy leaves underfoot, a chill in the air and a pumpkin pie-spiced White Russian by your side – doesn’t that sound like the perfect fall evening?
SerVeS | 2 |
1½ 2 2 1
PumPkin Pie-SPiced White RuSSian
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Becky Hardin is the recipe developer, photographer and writer behind thecookierookie.com. Her work has been featured on sites such as The Huffington Post, The New York Times and Better Homes and Gardens. Her recipes and photography have been featured in print in publications such as Women's World Magazine, Redbook and Family Circle. She is a self-taught cook who loves to create recipes anyone can make and everyone will love.
on The shelf : ocTober PIcks
WINE
Belmont VineyaRDs’ Bella Rosso written by Hilary HeDGes
Provenance: leasburg, Missouri PaIrIngs: Blackened swordfish • Prime rib • Lasagna
it's rare to find a local red blend made with both norton and traditional european grape varietals. Belmont Vineyards’ bella rosso is about 50 percent norton blended with tempranillo, syrah and Merlot. norton’s high acidity can present challenges in the cellar; blending it brings balance, enhanced flavors and a spicy finish, especially from the tempranillo. this wine packs a lot of flavor and is perfect for fall. it has smoky aromas with notes of dark fruit, spice and oak. this limited-production wine is available at the tasting room in leasburg, Missouri, near Cuba. belmontvineyards.com Hilary Hedges worked at Amigoni Urban Winery for more than five years as the director of sales and marketing and assistant winemaker. She's currently a freelance wine writer, and marketing manager for a local nonprofit.
BEER
Lunch
DInnER
BouleVaRD BRewing Co.'s DaRk tRuth
Wednesday through Sunday from 11am-4pm
Friday and Saturday evenings from 5pm-8pm
written By Justin PheLPs
WInERY hOuRS:
sTyle: imperial stout (9.7% abV) PaIrIngs: Bacon-wrapped dates • Beer-ice cream float
Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday – 11am-6pm Friday – 11am-10pm | Saturday – 11am-8pm
12237 Peter Moore Lane | DeSoto, MO 63020 636-586-2777 | info@lachancevineyards.com
when the weather turns cold, beers turn dark. october marks the unofficial start of stout season, and Boulevard Brewing Co.'s Dark truth out of Kansas City is a perfect example. this high-abV stout is made with belgian yeast, which is a slight twist on the typical version of the style. when poured, the beer emits aromas of plums, dark chocolate and coffee. once you take your first drink, the hops make their presence known, and the beer's bitterness shows up in a big way, competing with those dark fruit and roasted flavors. the next time you're around a bonfire, this is one beer you'll want to savor.
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boulevard.com Justin Phelps is a Certified Cicerone® and the founder of saintbrewis.com, a website dedicated to covering current events and trends happening in the St. Louis craft-beer scene.
SPIRIT
Restless spiRits Distilling Co.’s stone BReakeR written by Jenn tosatto
Provenance: Kansas City (46% abV) Try IT: neat, or with a single ice cube
inspired by their own heritage, Mike and benay shannon of Restless Spirits Distilling Co. in Kansas City wanted to bridge the flavor profiles of irish and american whiskeys. this led to the creation of stone breaker, a blend of whisky from Great northern Distillery in ireland and restless spirits Distilling Co.’s own american malt whiskey made in Kansas City. this blending creates a distinct spirit, combining the best of both products. the nose is earthy; slightly heavy on the palate, there are subtle notes of citrus and more noticeable notes of cream and butter. the finish lingers, with the earthiness dominating the overall impression. there’s a lot of subtlety here, which is why i recommend drinking it neat or with a single ice cube, to really experience the nuance that makes this whiskey so special.
restlessspiritsdistilling.com You can find Jenn Tosatto running the bar at Mission Taco Joint's Kansas City location. She also loves donating her skills to many charity events around the city, as well as working private events.
OISHI
SUSHI AND STEAKHOUSE
721 N NEW BALLAS RD. • CREVE COEUR, MO • 314-567-4478 SUSHI ONLY
100 PUBLIC WORKS DR. • CHESTERFIELD, MO • 636-530-1198 OISHISTL . COM
/ OISHISUSHISTEAKHOUSE Inspired Local Food Culture
@ OISHISTL o c to be r 2 018
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Whiskey for the Winter
More than 300 Whiskeys in Stock 10 Minutes from Special Order Available downtown St. Louis Serving St. Louis & Southern Illinois for 78 years
tasting events every friday
210 W. Main Street | Collinsville, IL 62234 | 618-344-4930 | deansliquor.com
MissOuri’s neWest Winery
fine Wine
special events
vineyarD tO table cuisine
Discover Defiance Ridge
Open 7 Days a Week • 2711 South Hwy 94, Defiance, MO 63341 636-798-2288 • www.defianceridge.com
DANCE TO LIVE MUSIC EVERY WEEKEND, SAVE YOUR OUR BEST MOVES FOR THE PATIO. P saint louis, missouri
9 1 0 w e s t p o r t P L A Z A d r i v e • S T . L O U I S , M I S S O U R I • 3 1 4 .5 4 8 . 2 8 7 6 • W E S T P O R T S O C I A L - S T L . C O M 32
feastmagazine.com
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PROMOTION
1 2
the Missouri Craft Distillers Guild was created to bring together our state’s craft distilleries and speak with a unified voice to spread the message that quality and local can go hand in hand. from the northern border to the bootheel, there are incredible craft distilleries to be found and explored, each with its own unique character and flavors.
1220 ArtisAn spirits
s t. lo ui s
BlAck shire Distillery
h ermann
3
copper run Distillery
4
DogmAster Distillers
5
JuDgment tree
6
missouri riDge Distillery
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st. louis Distillery
walnut s h ade co lumbi a defi ance brans o n
s t. ch arles
8
spirits of st. louis
9
tom’s town Distilling co.
s t. lo ui s
k ansas ci ty
10 11
15 19 18 9
wooD hAt spirits new flo rence
wooDsmen Distilling
h i gbee
12
Bone hill View Distillery
13
crown VAlley Distilling co.
buck ner
s te. genevi eve
11
12 4
fernweh Distilling co.
15
of the eArth fArm Distillery
h ermann
ri ch mo nd
10 14
14
7
2 17
5
8
1 20
16
ozArk Distillery
17
pinckney BenD Distillery
18
restless spirits Distilling co.
19
s.D. strong Distilling
20
still 630
o sage beach new h aven
k ansas ci ty
16
13
3 6
park vi lle s t. lo ui s
PROMOTION
1 1220 Arti san Spirits
2 Black Shire Distillery
Inspired by secret societies and speakeasies, the new 1220 Artisan Spirits brand complements its sister company, 4 Hands Brewing Co., and celebrates the relationship between brewery and distillery. Its first spirit, Origin, is a botanically driven gin made in the New Western style. 1220 plans to continue to expand its portfolio with more spirits such as seasonal gins, amaro and canned cocktails.
Opened in May, Black Shire Distillery's Hermann Farm tasting room and distillery is located on the restored cellar of its 1840s homestead, as well as an additional tasting room in downtown Hermann, Missouri. At the farm, sample spirits – whiskey, gin, vodka and more using its own fruits and Missouri-grown corn and rye – and tour the still cellar, mash room and aging barn.
1220spirits.com
111 Gutenberg St. and 2206 Highway 100 E, Hermann, Missouri, blackshiredistillery.com
5 Judgment Tree
6 Missouri Ridge Distillery
Defiance, Missouri, is where American legend Daniel Boone held court at the tree they called Judgment Tree and where the eponymous distillery draws inspiration for its extraordinary spirits, including a vodka made with local grapes and grains. Judge the superiority for yourself by picking up a bottle or trying it out in a signature cocktail at more than a dozen St. Louis-area retailers, restaurants and bars.
Missouri Ridge Distillery is one of Missouri’s most award-winning – and Branson’s only – grain-to-bottle distillery. It offers corn, bourbon and single-malt whiskeys, as well as several Howlin' Hounds Moonshines. Master distiller Greg Pope, aka "MR Whiskey," invites you to share in his passion while sampling its products in the tasting room and restaurant.
125 Boone Country Lane, Defiance, Missouri, 636.987.2400, judgmenttree.com
7000 State Highway 248, Branson, Missouri, 417.699.4095, missouriridgedistillery.com
9 Tom's Town Distilling Co.
10 Wood Hat Spirits
Controlled by political boss Tom Pendergast, money, jazz, and spirits flowed freely through Kansas City, aka Tom’s Town. When asked how he justified ignoring Prohibition, Tom answered, “The people are thirsty.” The premium craft spirits from Tom’s Town Distilling Co. satisfy that same thirst today. Taste the high standards in every sip of gin, vodka and bourbon made in the heart of Tom’s Town.
Next time you’re driving west along Interstate 70 between St. Louis and Columbia, take a pit stop at Wood Hat Spirits seed-to-glass distillery and tasting room. Nationally and internationally awarded and recognized, including the best craft-distilled whiskey by the American Distilling Institute in 2018, Wood Hat grows four heritage, non-GMO corns to make its four bourbons, four corn whiskeys and four cordials.
1701 Main St., Kansas City, Missouri, 816.541.2400, toms-town.com
489 Booneslick Road, New Florence, Missouri, 573.216.3572, woodhatspirits.com
12 Bone Hill View Distillery
14 Fernweh Distilling Co.
Bone Hill View Distillery pulls from the adventurous spirit of the town’s pioneers in handcrafted products including sweet sorghum-based spirits. 321 S. Hudson St., Buckner, Missouri, 816.650.0655, facebook.com/bonehillviewdistillery
Fernweh Distilling Co. tasting room and distillery showcase small-batch spirits including a rye whiskey, bourbon whiskey and wheat whiskey in historic riverfront Hermann. 4 Schiller St., Hermann, Missouri, 573.486.2970, fernwehdistilling.com
13 Crown Valley Distilling Co.
15 Of the Earth Farm Distillery
Crown Valley Brewing & Distilling Co. has a state-of-the-art facility for its portfolio of beers and spirits, plus a scenic tasting room in Ste. Genevieve, Missouri. 13326 State Highway F, Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, 573.756.9700, crownvalleybrewery.com
Of The Earth Farm Distillery creates apple brandy, rye whiskey, grappa, gin and a variety of liqueurs. Spent mash from the still is fed to pastured hogs to produce delicious pork. 17190 Highway 13, Richmond, Missouri, 660.232.1096, oftheearthfarm.com
PROMOTION
3 Copper Run Distillery
4 DogMaster Distillers
With a philosophy of quality over quantity, Copper Run Distillery produces small batches of handcrafted moonshine, whiskey and rum in Walnut Shade, Missouri. From its historic landmark of being the first legal distillery in the Ozark Mountains since Prohibition ended, Copper Run continues to break the mold by using local resources and time-tested distillation techniques.
DogMaster Distillers is the first craft distillery located in the heart of Missouri in Columbia. DogMaster utilizes as many locally sourced raw materials as possible in the production of its products, which include vodka, whiskey, bourbon, rum and gin. This family-owned establishment is open to the public for tours, tastings and cocktails Tuesday through Thursday from 4 to 10pm and Friday and Saturday from 4 to 11pm.
1901 Day Road, Walnut Shade, Missouri, 417.587.3456, copperrundistillery.com
210 St. James St., Suite D, Columbia, Missouri, 573.777.6768, dogmasterdistillery.com
7 St. Louis Distillery
8 Spirts of St. Louis
Vodka-lovers can get their hands on some of the best in the country at St. Louis Distillery’s tasting room. The extremely smooth Cardinal Sin vodka features a mash bill of two-row roasted barley delicately balanced with corn for a smooth, slightly sweet and full-bodied vodka. Cardinal Sin Starka is an amber spirit aged for 12 months in charred Missouri white-oak bourbon barrels and is the first barrel-aged vodka in the U.S.
As with sister brewery and restaurant, Square One Brewery and Distillery, Spirits of St. Louis’ flavorful, handcrafted offerings are created using local bounty and natural ingredients. Flagship whiskeys include JJ Neukomm Malt Whiskey, Vermont Night Maple Whiskey and Hopskey, a hop-infused whiskey. The restaurant showcases the full line of spirits with a signature cocktail menu, which includes regular and infused spirits highlighted with housemade syrups and mixers.
755 Friedens Road, St. Charles, Missouri, 636.925.1577, stldistillery.com
1727 Park Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, 314.231.2537, spiritsofstlouisdistillery.com
11 Woodsmen Distilling An hour north of Columbia, Missouri, Woodsmen Distilling takes the long road to produce its bourbons, whiskeys, flavored rums and more: from growing its own grains and rye to making and charring its own barrels to age the spirits on-site. See the entire grain-to-glass operation at the tasting room, which offers free tours and tastings on Saturdays.
18 Restless Spirits Distilling Co.
7239 Highway A, Higbee, Missouri, 660.456.7610, facebook.com/ woodsmendistilling
Missouri’s Distillery of the Year – Restless Spirits Distilling Co. – distills American spirits in the Irish tradition, including single-malt whiskey, poitín, gin and vodka. 109 E. 18th Ave., Kansas City, Missouri, 816.492.6868, restlessspiritsdistilling.com
16 Ozark Distillery
19 S.D. Strong Distilling
Along with its flagship corn whiskey and bourbon, the Osage Beach, Missouri, distillery produces infused moonshine in butterscotch, apple pie, blackberry and more. 1684 Highway KK, Osage Beach, Missouri, 573.348.2449, ozarkdistillery.com
Located in caves 65 feet underground, SD Strong Distilling produces vodka, straight rye whiskey, barrel-rested and original Pillar 136 Gin, and Big Boom Bourbon. 8500 NW River Park Drive #136A, Parkville, Missouri, sdstrongdistilling.com
17 Pinckney Bend Distillery
20 Still 630
Celebrating the legend of a lost town, Pinckney Bend Distillery creates award-winning premium spirits, including gins, whiskeys and vodka, by focusing on heritage and local ingredients. 1101 Miller St., New Haven, Missouri, 573.237.5559, pinckneybend.com
With a mission to create “indomitable spirits,” StilL 630’s premium, small-batch best-sellers include RallyPoint rye whiskey, Expedition rum and Volstead’s Folly gin. 1000 S. Fourth St., St. Louis, Missouri, 314.513.2275, still630.com
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ChesterďŹ eld 633 Spirit of St. Louis Blvd. 636.519.1611 Maryland Heights 11585 Lackland Rd. 314.677.6713 beckallencabinetry.com
spiked soup
Lager-style beer gives this smoky sharp Cheddar soup extra kick on p. 42. photography by jennifer silverberg
healthy appetite
Story and recipe by amanda elliott photography by drew pieSter
PumPkin-Tahini BreakfasT muffins Muffins will keep for about two days after baking if stored in an airtight container at room temperature. ServeS | 12 |
1¹⁄₃ ¹⁄₃ 1 ¼ ¼ ½ 1 ½ ½ 2 1 2 ¼ 1 ½ ¼
nonstick cooking oil spray cups all-purpose flour cup rolled oats tsp baking soda tsp ground cinnamon tsp ground cloves tsp salt cup granulated sugar cup maple syrup cup olive oil eggs cup pumpkin purée Tbsp sour cream cup tahini tsp vanilla extract cup chopped dates cup chopped pistachios
| preparation | preheat oven to 350°F. Spray 2 6-cup muffin tins with cooking oil spray and set aside. in a large mixing bowl, combine next 6 ingredients and set aside. in the bowl of a stand mixer, combine next 8 ingredients and beat on medium speed until combined. Slowly add flour mixture to wet ingredients; blend until combined. Fold in dates. Spoon batter into prepared muffin tins, filling each ¾ full, and sprinkle pistachios on top. bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center of a muffin comes out clean. transfer muffins to a wire rack to cool to room temperature before serving.
PumPkin-Tahini BreakfasT muffins nothing defines the flavor of fall quite like pumpkin. Start crisp october mornings off right with these savory pumpkin-tahini muffins paired with a piping-hot cup of coffee. these muffins are perfectly moist and have a nice, round nutty flavor, including balanced sweetness and spice courtesy of the tahini. tahini, which is made with hulled and toasted sesame seeds, is a staple in middle eastern and north african cuisines; if you haven’t worked with it much, these easy-to-make muffins are an ideal introduction. Amanda Elliott is the chef at Peachtree Catering (peachtreebanquet.com) in Columbia, Missouri, and authors the website Rustic Supper (rusticsupper.com), where she shares recipes centered on the idea of the communal table and embracing the heritage of food through travel. She also hosts a series of pop-up dinners in Columbia called Sunday Suppers.
Inspired Local Food Culture
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story and recipes by shannon weber photography by jennifer silverberg
Roasted GaRam masala Phool makhana yields
| 8 cups |
1 2 1 1 ½
Tbsp plus 1 tsp garam masala tsp granulated sugar tsp chile powder tsp kosher salt tsp ground cumin fat pinch cayenne pepper 8 cups phool makhana 4 Tbsp ghee or unsalted butter, melted and hot
| preparation | preheat oven to 350°f. in a small bowl, mix together first 6 ingredients; set aside.
nursing an oktoberfest-induced hangover? chowing down on this powerhouse snack may help get you through the day.
spread phool makhana in a single layer on a lipped sheet pan and roast in oven for 12 to 13 minutes until hot and crisp. remove and transfer to a mixing bowl; working quickly, drizzle hot ghee or butter over puffs and toss; sprinkle spice mix over top and continue to toss until puffs are evenly coated. serve warm or at room temperature; puffs will keep for up to 2 days.
Roasted eveRythinG BaGel Phool makhana yields | 8 cups |
2 1½ 1 1½ 1 1 8 4
tsp poppy seeds tsp sesame seeds tsp black sesame seeds tsp garlic powder tsp onion powder tsp kosher salt cups phool makhana Tbsp ghee or unsalted butter, melted and hot
| preparation | preheat oven to 350°f. in a saucepan over medium heat, add first 3 ingredients and toast until fragrant and seeds darken slightly; remove from heat, add garlic and onion powders and salt and toss together in warm pan. when cooled slightly, remove from heat and transfer to a spice grinder; pulse until powdered. set aside. spread phool makhana in a single layer on a lipped sheet pan and roast in oven for 12 to 13 minutes until hot and crisp. remove and transfer to a mixing bowl; working quickly, drizzle hot ghee or butter over puffs and toss; sprinkle spice mix over top and continue to toss until puffs are evenly coated. serve warm or at room temperature; puffs will keep for up to 2 days.
meet: Phool makhana What Is It? Phool makhana – sometimes called euryale ferox or gorgon nuts – are the puffed seeds of the lotus flower, a water plant grown primarily in asian countries. seeds are harvested, cleaned and popped to make a snack that falls somewhere between popcorn and a larger version of those 1980s-era puffed rice cereals. phool makhana is ultra-healthy, rich in antioxidants, magnesium and complex carbohydrates, as well as low in calories, sodium and fat. when you think about it, it’s a pretty perfect way to recover after, say, an “overindulgent” night out. phool makhana can be easily found at most international grocery stores and indian markets in particular.
What do I do WIth It? simply roasting phool makhana in the oven or a skillet and tossing it in olive oil or butter and salt will land you a brilliant go-to snack. if you’re interested in taking it beyond snack territory, think of it like tofu: a blank canvas for flavor that adds welcome texture to dishes. roast and add to curries and soups; the puffs will morph from crisp to pleasantly chewy and hold their own, even in liquid. it’s often used in versions of kheer, an asian rice pudding. instead of granola, try it crisped over yogurt with honey, nuts and fruit for breakfast or an afternoon snack. get to know (and love) phool makhana: roast and toss it in either of the spice mixes featured here.
Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as bon appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes that the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and life.
PROMOTION
STL HAnDCrAFT &
COCKTAILS BECk/ALLEn CABinETRY has recently taken up residence in an impressive new showroom in Maryland Heights, Missouri – complete with a bar display recalling the craftsmanship, quality and detail of years past. This beacon for lovers of design and drinking alike sets out to inspire customers with a brilliant mix of old and new. It boasts handcrafted soaring arches that frame custom-made antiqued mirrors and intricate carvings finished with five layers of crown molding. The rich, leathery finish of its dark Jatoba Brown quartzite countertop is a must-see (and -feel). beckallencabinetry.com
The
GourmeT
KiTchen
Living & Cooking
Trendy touches, dramatic details, and creative color choices can turn your kitchen into a haven at home.
COunTErpOInT CO The countertop is arguably the most essential component of a kitchen, and visually, countertops often set the tone and feel of a space. Although quartz is an up-and-comer on the scene, granite is still an incredibly popular choice, and for good reason. It’s durable, strong and good-looking. At kC gRAniTE & CABinETRY, you can choose from 80 colors in stock, with more than 200 colors available locally. From there, you can add character through veining and patterns, textured finishes and even integrating the sink by using the same material as the countertop for a sleek look. kcgraniteusa.com
MIXED
MODErn
MESSAGE The team at
WiLSon LigHTing always
written by bethany christo
FArMHOuSE
STL KC
says “lighting is the jewel of the home” and that it can instantly update and personalize your design. In both the home in general and kitchen in particular, Wilson noticed mixed-metal finishes making a splash at the latest market events and expos. This flexible, transitional style works well in kitchen fixtures, especially black or bronze with brass or gold: Black or bronze provides depth of color, while brass or gold offers lavish warmth. For a more neutral or cooler feel, Wilson recommends mixing black or bronze with silver or brushed nickel. wilsonlighting.com
One of the top kitchen-design trends BUiLT BY BRETT, a custom homebuilder in Springfield, Missouri, is seeing is the farmhouse style. Along with rustic hardware and plank-style cabinetry, the timeless, lived-in charm of this vibe is best achieved by a farmhouse sink. Also known as an apron-front sink, farmhouse-style sinks are much deeper and wider than a traditional sink basin, with an exposed, protruding front edge. These sinks come in materials ranging from porcelain to copper to enameled cast iron and are especially ideal for large families or homes without a dishwasher. builtbybrett.com
SGF
EnTErTAInInG FOr THE HOLIDAY
STL
With fall upon us, many are thinking of remodeling or updating our kitchens in preparation for entertaining family and friends inside. MoSBY BUiLDing ARTS and RigHT kiTCHEn & BATH in St. Louis know a few purposeful updates can add a ton of warmth and open space for entertaining. Modernize outdated appliances and add efficiency with flush inset appliances, and save space with the latest tech like a flat-screen TV and Sub-Zero refrigeration behind retractable pocket doors. An island creates a functional gathering space, which can be customized with design elements such as a waterfall edge, decorative panels and complementary finish. mosbybuildingarts.com
quick fix
story and recipe by Gabrielle deMichele photoGraphy by jennifer silverberG
Smoky Beer and Sharp Cheddar Soup serves | 6 |
4 Tbsp unsalted butter 1 shallot, minced 2 leeks, white to light green parts only, cleaned, small dice 2 carrots, small dice 2 ribs celery, small dice 1 jalapeño, seeded and minced kosher salt 4 cloves garlic, minced ¼ cup all-purpose flour ½ tsp ground mustard powder ½ tsp smoked paprika 3 cups unsalted chicken stock ¼ tsp Worcestershire sauce 1 cup whole milk 4 oz room-temperature cream cheese 2 cups grated sharp yellow Cheddar 2 cups grated sharp white Cheddar 6 oz lager-style beer ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper toasted baguette, sliced into 6 pieces (to serve)
Smoky Beer and Sharp Cheddar Soup this month, kick off soup season with an oktoberfest essential: beer. added at the very end of your cooking time, lager-style beer adds a crisp, clean flavor to the soup. the smoked paprika, meanwhile, adds a touch of smoke and depth of flavor, while the jalapeño lends a hint of spice. two freshly grated sharp cheddars – yellow and white – give this soup its bold and cheesy flavor, but don’t skimp on the cream cheese, as it ensures a rich and creamy texture.
chef’s tip
In this class, you’ll learn how to brûlée oats to top a simple and seasonal raw apple cake. You’ll also learn how to perfectly cook crispy and tender spicy chicken wings in the oven.
taste test. after adding beer and freshly ground black pepper to soup, be sure to taste it
before adding additional salt, as the cheese will contribute saltiness as well. depending on the capsaicin level of your jalapeño, you might get a little heat on the back end; if you don’t care for heat, simply omit it.
the Menu • smoky Beer and sharp cheddar soup • Midwest Pork Tenderloin Sandwich • Oven-Fried Spicy Chicken Wings • From-Scratch Applesauce • Garlic-Rubbed Toasted Baguettes • Raw Apple Cake With Brûléed Oat Topping
| preparation | in a large stockpot over medium heat, melt butter; when butter begins to foam, add shallot, leeks, carrot, celery and jalapeño. season with salt and cook until translucent but not browned. add garlic and cook 1 minute more, or until garlic releases its fragrance. stir in flour, mustard powder and smoked paprika. let flour mixture cook for 1 to 2 minutes or until completely absorbed. increase heat to medium-high and slowly add chicken stock, stirring continuously until a smooth roux has formed. add Worcestershire sauce; slowly add milk, stirring constantly to ensure no lumps form. reduce heat to medium-low and add cream cheese and both cheddar cheeses; stir occasionally, until cheeses melt and soup develops a smooth consistency. add beer and pepper; taste soup and adjust seasoning as desired. divide warm soup between 6 serving bowls and serve with slices of toasted baguette.
get hands-on: Join Feast Magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school at 6pm on Wed., oct. 24, at the des Peres, Missouri, location to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at nourish.schnucks.com/ schnucks-cooking-school or call 314.909.1704.
WATCH IT ON THESE NETWORKS
In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Mondays at 8:30pm.
In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Saturdays at 5:30pm and Sundays at 7:30am.
You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Saturdays at 10am.
Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) Mondays at 12:30pm.
Feast TV’s new season will air in the Springfield region on Ozarks Public Television. Check your local listings for airdates..
Check mylaketv.com to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.
feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:
BEER & BRAT ON A BUN! Whether you’re at a tailgate or Halloween party, Schnucks Signature Brats made with Schlafly Oktoberfest are the perfect savory treat. Our butchers grind meat fresh in store, then hand mix it with spices using our own signature recipe and Schlafly’s authentic Oktoberfest beer. Prost!
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story and recipe by christy augustin photography by jacklyn meyer
Golden Rum Cake with walnuts yields
| 1 large Bundt cake |
rum glaze
½ ¹⁄₃ 1 ½
cup unsalted butter cup water cup granulated sugar cup aged gold rum
Bundt cake
nonstick cooking oil spray 2½ cups cake flour, plus more for flouring Bundt pan 1 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped 1 Tbsp baking powder 1½ tsp kosher salt 2 cups granulated sugar ½ cup unsalted butter, softened ½ cup canola oil 4 eggs 2 egg yolks ½ cup whole milk ½ cup aged gold rum 2 tsp vanilla extract
| preparation – rum glaze | in a small saucepan over medium heat, melt butter with water and sugar. bring to a boil for 5 minutes until a thick, foamy syrup forms. add rum off heat and stir to combine. keep hot until ready to glaze cake. | preparation – bundt cake | preheat oven to 350°F. grease a 10-cup bundt pan with cooking oil spray and flour. sprinkle chopped walnuts evenly over bottom of pan. set aside. in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, hand whisk cake flour, baking powder, salt and sugar. add butter and oil and mix on medium speed until a thick, sandy paste forms. add eggs, then egg yolks, slowly, scraping sides of bowl between additions. slowly add milk, rum and vanilla extract while still mixing at medium speed to create a smooth, liquid batter. pour batter into prepared pan and bake for about 60 minutes until golden brown. Finished cake will spring back when pressed lightly.
| assembly | using a toothpick or skewer, poke numerous holes in the bottom of cake. baste ¼ of glaze over bottom of cake, wait 2 minutes and baste with another ¼ glaze. let cool for 10 minutes in pan. invert cake onto a serving platter and baste with remaining glaze until all sides and top are soaked. let cool completely before serving; to let flavors meld further, rest cake overnight at room temperature before serving.
Golden Rum Cake With Walnuts
a ubiquitous caribbean dessert sold in tourist shops throughout jamaica and the cayman islands, golden rum cake is a sweet, boozy treat that keeps for days at room temperature thanks to a generous amount of liquor. With a flavor reminiscent of sunny days on sandy beaches, this cake is especially delicious made with barrel-aged rum (or even 15-year aged whiskey). nearly every other popular golden rum cake recipe i’ve found calls for yellow cake mix and instant vanilla pudding; here, we’re making the cake entirely from scratch and adding walnuts for crunch and a nutty flavor to complement the sweetness of the rum. Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. Learn more at pintsizebakery.com.
Rockfair Tavern A Classic for More than 30 Years
Restaurant and Lounge 3 Blocks South of Route 66 506 S. Franklin St., Cuba, MO 65453 573-885-7518
WINE& CHEESE ADVENTURE! cheese and charcuterie boards wine and cheese pairings gourmet sandwiches
~ ~ ~ homemade ice cream ~ local small batch delectables
Bold Flavor Country Ham — have you tried it? — Our cOuntry ham is hand rubbed with a simple cure mix, befOre it’s paper wrapped and aged fOr three tO nine mOnths tO allOw a bOld flavOr tO develOp. KicK yOur sandwiches, charcuterie bOards and appetizers up a nOtch with this favOrite.
1099 Welt Street, Weston, MO 64098
GREENDIRTFARM.COM/CREAMERY
®
sMokehouse.CoM 32819 highway 87, California, Mo 65018 | 800-624-5426 find us at your loCal retailers or restaurants, order online or Call to purChase for your restaurant! Inspired Local Food Culture
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PROMOTION
Perfect
Wine + Cheese
martin brothers winery
Balducci Vineyards
+
+
green dirt farm
Edgewood Creamery
Norton Limited
lucerne blossom mead
Prairie tomme Prairie Tomme is a 100-percent sheep’s milk hard cheese. The nutty and caramel notes in the cheese complement Lucerne Blossom Mead’s spice-forward characteristics of clove, cinnamon and vanilla. The lower-moisture cheese paired with the full-bodied mead is a seasonal favorite. martinbrotherswinery.com greendirtfarm.com 46
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Ozark Mountain Blue Fruit-forward with flavors of blackberry and plum, Balducci Vineyards’ new 2017 Norton Limited is made with 100 percent Norton grapes. The silky texture coats your mouth, and the rich flavor stands up to blue cheese, like the nutty Ozark Mountain Blue from Edgewood Creamery. balduccivineyards.com edgewoodcreamery.com
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Edg-Clif Farms & vineyard
When drinking a glass of wine from some of the best vineyards in Missouri, upgrade your pairing with a cheese made in the same region. We asked the winemakers for pairing recommendations with their favorite offerings.
TerraVox
KC Wine Co.
Saignée Rosé
Chardonnay
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+
+
Marcoot Jersey Creamery
green dirt farm
Jason Wiebe Dairy
ROSé chambourcin
Creamy Havarti
Marcoot Jersey Creamery’s Creamy Havarti is brightened by the fruity, dry wine and complemented by its light acidity. Rosé Chambourcin is made from premium Chambourcin grapes grown and hand-tended in the heart of the Ozark Mountains. edg-clif.com marcootjerseycreamery.com
Dirt Lover
Dirt Lover’s buttery and earthy profile pairs excellently with the fruit notes of strawberry and watermelon found in the 2017 TerraVox Saignée Rosé. As Dirt Lover ages, it can express a savory, beeflike flavor, which enhances the pairing and melds perfectly with Saignée’s aromas of spice and sandalwood. voxvineyards.com greendirtfarm.com
Cottonwood River Cheddar Reserve Crafted with Midwest pride, KC Wine Co.’s Chardonnay has a rich, citrus-forward nose, a fruity body and a smooth-as-butter finish. Pair with Kansas creamery Jason Wiebe Dairy’s Cottonwood River Cheddar Reserve and good friends. kcwineco.com jasonwiebedairy.com
P
airings PWine
written by Bethany Christo
+ Chocolate
Wild Sun Winery
Cabernet Sauvignon
+ Bissinger’s Handcrafted Chocolatier
Royal Raspberry Crèmes
Wild Sun Winery’s 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon’s velvety flavors pair with the soft richness of your favorite dark chocolate. The addition of raspberries enhances the wine’s fruit notes; we recommend Bissinger’s Royal Raspberry Crèmes. wildsun.com bissingers.com
Defiance ridge Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignon
+
Panache Chocolatier
Sea Salt Almond Bar Defiance Ridge Vineyards’ dry Cabernet Sauvignon evokes intense black-fruit flavors and toasted, smoky oak on the palate. Pair with a sea salt-almond dark chocolate bar from Panache to further express the bold notes, as well as the aromas of muddled blackberry, black currants, coffee, vanilla and clove. defianceridgevineyards.com chocolatekc.com
Treat yourself to a sweet accompaniment to these local wines, as suggested by the winemakers themselves.
LaChance Vineyards
Montelle Winery
stone hill winery
+
+
+
Crimson Cabernet
chocolate chocolate chocolate Co.
Vidal Blanc Icewine
ozark hellbender
Christopher Elbow CHocolates
Sea Salt Caramel
Blood Orange Truffles
70% Artisan Dark Chocolate Bar
Oak-aged Crimson Cabernet uses unique grapes grown at LaChance’s vineyard to produce concentrated flavors of black cherry and black fruit and background hints of earth. Pair with Chocolate Chocolate Chocolate Co.’s No. 1-selling sea salt caramels, made fresh in St. Louis every day. lachancevineyards.com chocolatechocolate.com
Kakao Chocolate’s blood orange truffles are an atypical recommendation with Montelle Winery’s Vidal Blanc Icewine, but the rich citrus flavors of blood orange marry the silkiness of the dark chocolate and the apricot, peach and mango flavors of the Icewine into a lingering, decadent finish. montelle.com kakaochocolate.com
Stone Hill Winery’s brand-new 2016 Ozark Hellbender is a dry red wine blend with bold aromas of cherry, blueberry pie and cinnamon. The wine’s fruit-forward notes of red fruit and tart cherry are enhanced with Christopher Elbow Chocolates’ fruity and complex 70 percent gourmet dark chocolate bar. stonehillwinery.com elbowchocolates.com
Kakao CHocolate
Inspired Local Food Culture
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Limited Edition Limited Edition
Camo Cans Camo Cans
Continuing the Busch Family’s Continuing the Busch Family’s longstanding commitment to longstanding to conservation, commitment William K. Busch Brewing conservation, William K. Busch Brewing Company and Realtree have joined Company and joined together in anRealtree effort to have preserve together in natural an effort to preserve Missouri’s resources. Through Missouri’s naturalwe resources. Through this partnership, will donate a this partnership, we willfrom donate portion of the proceeds thisa portion of the proceeds from this limited-edition packaging to the limited-edition packaging to the Missouri Conservation Heritage Missouri Conservation Foundation. Our goal isHeritage to ensure that Foundation. Our goal is to ensure that current and future generations current and the future generations throughout Midwest have the throughout Midwest opportunity the to enjoy the have great the outdoors. opportunity to enjoy the great outdoors. We invite you to help by enjoying our We you to help by enjoying our Realinvite American Lager. Real American Lager.
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Wm. K. Busch Brewing Co. St. Louis MO
kräftig.com/conservation
Wm. K. Busch Brewing Co. St. Louis MO
kräftig.com/conservation
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cider house rules
St. Louis’ first cidery is using regional ingredients and innovative techniques to change the notion of what craft cider can be.
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the year in beer
Our annual guide to the latest in local beer includes new breweries, big brewing news and the best new beers of the year.
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raise a glass
Two local farm distilleries prove that quality grain-to-glass spirits start in the field. phOTO Of YeLLOw and whiTe COrn aT STumpY’S SpiriTS in COLumbia, iLLinOiS (p. 67), bY judd demaLine
Written by HeatHer riske
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PHotograPHy by J. Pollack PHotograPHy
St. Louis' first cidery is using regional ingredients and innovative techniques to change the notion of what craft cider can be.
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That’s not to say it wouldn’t sell; owner Russ John knows that it probably would. But he’d rather pour you a glass of the cidery’s take on a dry rosé wine – with a tart kick thanks to some Michigan Montmorency sour cherries – or the flagship Homestead, a cloudy, unfiltered farmhouse style reminiscent of the non-alcoholic fresh-pressed ciders you’d sip at the orchard as a kid. Unlike many large-scale cider companies that rely on rehydrated juice concentrate, Brick River exclusively uses fresh-pressed fruit, sourced from within 400 miles of St. Louis. But by limiting itself, Brick River has been forced to get creative and, in doing so, created a product that is a true taste of the region. Inspired Local Food Culture
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n a city famed for its longstanding beer-brewing tradition, John seems poised to introduce St. Louis to a new cidermaking tradition. Although several local and regional breweries and wineries have released their own hard ciders over the years, Brick River is the city’s first dedicated cidery. Through a portfolio of innovative ciders, John aims to give consumers a nuanced taste of craft cider. “We’re looking to help the whole region understand craft cidermaking, how it’s different and why the products you’re drinking from us are maybe different than anything you’ve ever seen [produced] around here before,” John says. “Because I think they are a little different than what people have seen here.” John’s family has a long history with cider. In 1869, his great-grandfather Theodore Jahn, a former Union soldier who purchased a 160-acre homestead farm in southeast Nebraska. (He later changed his last name to John.) The family has continued to make fruit wines and ciders from those apple and pear orchards ever since – while searching through the barn around 15 years ago, John even found a few bottles of cider made by his grandfather during Prohibition. When John inherited the family farm about a decade ago, he considered a few possibilities, but kept being pulled back to cider. In February, he opened Brick River Cider Co. in St. Louis, featuring a 12,000-square-foot production facility and 180-seat tasting room and restaurant serving refined pub fare, in a former firehouse in Downtown St. Louis. The name is meant to honor the River City’s industrial history – St. Louis was once the biggest brick manufacturer in the country – but the cidery itself celebrates John’s long family traditions of farming and cidermaking. “Cider went through a 75- to 100-year decline in America and is now rebuilding,” John says. “I’d seen it building on the coasts for a while again, and thought it was a matter of time, like many things, before it came to the Midwest. We had the skills, background and knowledge to be the first guys to really bring craft cider back to this region.” Brick River uses apples from John’s family farm rarely grown in the U.S. – including a few English varieties, such as Dabinett, Ashmead’s Kernel, Kingston Black and Harrison – but these make up just a fraction of overall cider production. “We grow a very small bit of the apples, but it gave us the history, heritage and predisposition to work with farmers and orchardists around the region,” John says.
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The rest of the apples – and all of the supplementary fruit and herbs used as flavorings in Brick River ciders – are sourced from presses and growers within 400 miles of St. Louis, including in southern Illinois, mid-Missouri, southeast Nebraska and southwest Michigan. It’s part of an effort to create a product that’s distinctly Midwestern – and why you won’t see any pineapple cider from Brick River. “We thought those kinds of limitations of working with whole fruit and working with regional growers were important enough to stay true to,” John says.
Brick River also uses a range of everyday table apples, including Fuji, Gala, McIntosh and Granny Smith – with one exception. “I highly discourage Red Delicious apples [for cidermaking],” John says. “It’s not really sweet, it’s not really tart. It’s just kind of a big watery thing and that’s what cider tastes like when you make it from a Red Delicious.”
> From LeFt to right: Cornerstone, homestead, Firehouse rosé, Brewer's Choice
Although the mix of fresh-pressed apple juice is never exactly the same from year to year, any of Brick River’s ciders can be made from the same batch. It’s what happens in the cidermaking process, overseen by cidermaker Tom Johnson, that makes each cider unique. Of its four core offerings, Brick River’s two flagship – and best-selling – ciders are also its most traditional. Cornerstore is a classic, crystal-clear, off-dry and apple-forward style, while Homestead is a cloudy, unfiltered, semi-sweet farmhouse style. “It’s a nod to the way we did it out on the homestead, out on the plains, where you didn’t have a lot of technology and you drank it young,” John says of the latter. In general, American cidermakers don’t have access to the same unique “cider apples,” or bittersweet apples, used in the U.K. and France, which typically feature high levels of acid, tannin or sugar. These aren’t everyday table apples – if you bit into one, you’d probably spit it out – but they offer more complexity and richness when used to make cider. American cidermakers, on the other hand, have to get a little more creative in the cidermaking process by using different ingredients, fermentations and techniques. Enter Brick River’s two limited-edition ciders. In a nod to St. Louis’ longstanding brewing history, Brewer’s Choice is dry-hopped with Alsatian hops; the cider features herbal, grassy and earthy aromatics and drinks totally dry. Named for the former Engine House No. 32 that Brick River now calls home, Firehouse Rosé combines Michigan Montmorency sour cherries and a hibiscus tea blend for a tart take on a dry rosé. And last month, Brick River released its newest addition to the portfolio: a blueberrylavender cider. The sweetest of Brick River’s ciders, it features a fresh lavender aroma and a bright blue-purple hue. As consumers begin to recognize that not all ciders are cloyingly sweet, John says there’s still a big misconception that the cidermaking process is similar to brewing; in fact, it more closely resembles winemaking. “You don’t cook anything [in cidermaking]; if you cooked apple juice, the pectins would solidify and you’d get apple jelly,” John says.
Much like wine, cider is fermented from crushed and pressed fruit; at Brick River, it’s done so in stainless steel tanks. And unlike the beer-brewing process, there’s no boil, as cidermaking is done at cold temperatures. Many of Brick River’s ciders start their lives out the same way: The Cornerstone and Homestead, for instance, start with the same juice before being fermented across three different fermentations with three different ratios of yeast. Each fermentation imparts different characters to the cider: One might be more apple-forward, another might impart a little earthiness and yet another adds roundness and mouthfeel. The Cornerstone is also filtered and aged a little longer. The fermentations are blended in different ratios to create the two distinct ciders, and the Homestead is then back-sweetened with fresh apple juice at the end of the process to give it that straight-from-the-orchard flavor.
owner Russ John
Brick River uses wine yeast, which is inherently gluten-free, in all of its ciders. John and his team started by evaluating around 20 different yeasts before narrowing those down to three or four that the cidery works with predominantly. From apple to apple, the use of different yeasts can alter everything from the sweetness, astringency and viscosity to color, aroma and alcohol content. Each yeast gives off different attributes; some might be floral or herbal while others bring a citrus quality. “We had one we decided against because when you fermented apple juice with it, it tasted exactly like a sour apple Jolly Rancher,” John says.
cidermaker Tom Johnson
Johnson, an alum of Schlafly Beer and the now-shuttered Six Row Brewing Co., both in the St. Louis area, joined the Brick River team in late July after the departure of cidermaker
Evan Hiatt. With seven years of industry experience under his belt, albeit a limited familiarity with cider, Johnson says he felt ready for a change. The opportunity to help grow St. Louis’ first cidery was just too good to pass up. “What I like about our cider is that we take such meticulous care of it throughout the entire process,” he says. “We’re using juice from just within the Midwest, so everything that we’re doing has the purpose of highlighting homegrown fruit. And we don’t back-sweeten as much as some other cider producers, which lends us to more of a yeast-driven profile and apple-forward character.” Consumers clearly have a taste for Brick River’s unique ciders; in July, the company expanded distribution across eastern Missouri, including Columbia, St. Charles and Cape Girardeau, as well as in southern Illinois. Up until that point, its ciders were only sold in the St. Louis area, yet Brick River was still the fifth best-selling cider brand in the state behind national and international players like Angry Orchard, Strongbow and Crispin. In another year, John hopes Brick River sales will surpass some of those major brands. “We’re working to build craft-cider knowledge in the region,” John says. “St. Louis has now had 20-plus years of understanding craft beer and how the craft-beer business is different than the Budweiser business, but we’re just starting that understanding as it relates to cider. Almost all the cider anyone drank in St. Louis before we came to town was rehydrated apple juice concentrate. But people don’t know the difference in taste between that and a whole-fruit cider because they’ve never actually had one.” Now, thanks to St. Louis' first dedicated cidery, that's easier than ever. 2000 Washington Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, brickrivercider.com
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when we published our inaugural The Year in Beer feature three years ago ago, our region's craft-beer industry was booming, with an influx of new breweries opening every month and new and expanded production from longtime favorites. In this, our now third-annual salute to the ever-evolving local craft-beer scene, we’re proud to report that we’ve only seen further growth in the industry in those few years. In the following pages, you’ll read about 15 new breweries that opened between October 2017 and October 2018, 16 must-try beers from established breweries released during the same time frame and big industry news from producers from Waterloo, Illinois, to St. Louis and Kansas City to Springfield, Missouri, and Shawnee, Kansas, and many others in between. More than a roundup of what’s new and notable in the community, we hope this feature acts as an overview of the expansion and innovation in the regional craft-beer community.
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Please join us in raising a pint to all of the brewers who are driving the craft-beer industry forward – both here in the Midwest and across the country – and making our region a destination for beer-lovers everywhere.
St. Louis
. Rockwell Beer Co.
Andy Hille worked for several years to open Rockwell Beer Co., which plans to celebrate its grand opening in The Grove this month. The massive 12,000-square-foot brewery and tasting room was developed in partnership with Green Street St. Louis and architecture and design firm JEMA and features a 15-barrel, three-vessel brewhouse. Hille, formerly a brewer at Perennial Artisan Ales in St. Louis, working alongside Rockwell head brewer and fellow Perennial alum Jonathan Moxey, aims to produce 1,500 barrels in the next year. Look for fan favorites at the tasting room like Fabricius, a saison brewed with Mandarin oranges, and Major Key, an East CoastWest Coast hybrid double IPA. Soon, Rockwell will also introduce food service by James Beard award-winning chef Gerard Craft. –Liz Miller rockwellbeer.com PHOTO COuRTESy ROCKWELL BEER CO.
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Kansas City
Springfield, MO
Shawnee, KS
.Casual Animal Brewing Co.
Tie & Timber Beer Co.
Transport Brewery
The latest brewery to debut in the Crossroads Arts District may also be the wildest: Kyle and Lara Gray opened critter-themed Casual Animal Brewing Co. earlier this year. Housed in a former tobacco warehouse, Casual Animal encourages guests to take a walk on the wild side with various beer styles, including Branch Out Stout, NoMo Rhino IPA, Treat Yourself Honey Wheat, Slacktivist Saison and the crisp Hop the Fence IPL, a light beer with a lemon-lime finish. The new brewery is also eager to give back to the community: Casual Animal’s Local Motive beer program helps the community by donating $2 from the sale of a rotating beer to a nonprofit partner; this month, it’s the Kansas City Pet Project. –Pete Dulin
The newest member of the rapidly growing beer community in Springfield, Missouri, is Tie & Timber Beer Co. The brewery opened last spring in Springfield’s picturesque Rountree neighborhood, offering a casual atmosphere with lawn games, live music and, of course, creative beers. Owners Jennifer Leonard and Curtis Marshall moved from Denver to the Springfield area, where Marshall grew up, just prior to opening Tie & Timber. The brewery offers a diverse beer list including the ever-popular Juicy Brewski, a heavily hopped New England IPA with juicy citrus flavors and just enough lactose to create a soft, smooth finish, as well as a basil saison and the Bob Ross American Brown Ale. –Lillian Stone
This month, homebrewers and friends Jason Leib, Mike McVey, Tim Squires and Jonathan Williamson joined forces to open the first brewery in Shawnee, Kansas: Transport Brewery. Located in a building constructed in the early 1900s, the six-barrel brewery and taproom neighbors the historic Aztec Theater, which is currently being renovated; as such, the brewery is part of a larger revival in downtown Shawnee. At Transport, approachable beer styles include an amber lager, fruit-infused Berliner weisse, New England IPA and brown ale. Beers from Sandhills Brewing in Hutchinson and Mission, Kansas, which Williamson owns with his brother, are also on tap at Transport. –P.D.
816.214.5388, casualanimalbrewing.com
417.429.9131, tieandtimberbeerco.com
transportbrewery.com
PHOTO BY CHRIS SMITH
St. Louis
Blue Springs, MO
Kansas City
.Wellspent Brewing Co.
East Forty Brewing
Yeast-driven beer is the focus at Wellspent Brewing Co., which opened in Midtown St. Louis in March. Husband-and-wife team Kyle and Angela Kohlmorgen opened the brewery inside an early 20th-century theater. Kyle heads up brewing operations while Angela manages the taproom and events. Look for beers like Dad Jorts, a farmhouse IPA; Rex Kwon Do, a Belgian-style Tripel; and On the Bright Side: Boysenberry, a fruited sour ale. Be sure to peek inside the barrel room next door, too, where Kyle is currently aging sour beers in wine casks. If the weather is nice, sip your beer on the outdoor patio, complete with a grassy area perfect for yard games. –L.M.
At East Forty Brewing, owners David Mann and Matt Bryan have made suburban Blue Springs, Missouri, a destination for excellent craft beer. The seven-barrel brewery and 154-seat taproom – plus 84 additional seats on the patio – debuted this summer. The taproom was a labor of love for Mann and Bryan, who outfitted it with reclaimed barn wood and walnut slabs to create a rustic feel. Try the Dog Days wheat, Second Breakfast oatmeal porter and Sunrise Saison, a French-style farmhouse ale made with ginger and lime. Housemade ginger beer, draft cocktails, kombucha and wines from local Amigoni Urban Winery are also available on tap. –P.D.
>Callsign Brewing
314.328.0505, wellspentbeer.com
816.988.8217, eastfortybrewing.com
With Callsign Brewing, owners Steve Sirois; his son, Steve Sirois Jr.; and Morris Loncon have created a brewery that honors active, veteran and fallen members of the U.S. military. Even Callsign’s name is an homage, inspired by the nicknames given to military aircrafts while flying a mission. Sirois Sr. and Loncon, both veterans, enlisted help from numerous friends and fellow veterans to launch the brewery in a former North Kansas City, Missouri, tire-patch factory, which resembles an aircraft hangar. Behind the bar, which mirrors the look of a runway, beers include Fighter Pale Ale, Hercules Amber Ale, Bombshell Blonde and Chinook IPA. –P.D. 816.255.3351, callsignbrewing.com
PHOTO BY J. POLLACK PHOTOGRAPHY
Springfield, MO
Kansas City
.4 By 4 Brewing Co.
Colony Handcrafted Ales
Since opening in December 2017, 4 By 4 Brewing Co. has established itself as a destination for craft-beer fans in Springfield, Missouri. Located in the outdoorsy Galloway neighborhood, the brewery offers a “community- and family-minded taproom” complete with free popcorn and a towering pile of board games, cornhole, life-sized Jenga and more. 4 By 4 was founded by four friends and their spouses – hence the name – who developed the concept after spending several years traveling to microbreweries across the country. Today, the brewery offers a rapidly growing selection of approachable beers, including the O.G. Hefe, a light hefeweizen with a pleasant banana finish, and Toates M’Goats, a farmhouse ale. –L.S.
Zach Henderson and Drew Cobb originally opened Colony KC in May 2016 as a coffeehouse and craft-beer bar. Last fall, they debuted a nanobrewery in the space and hired talented homebrewer Rodney Beagle to brew beers on-site. Under the brand Colony Handcrafted Ales, Beagle has released at least one beer per week since opening, with plans to release his 60th beer this month. Beagle’s wildly inventive beers run the gamut, from his Rainbow Road series of brews made with fruit and lactose to his Samsquanch dark sour ale and the popular Cinco wheat ale capturing the flavor of guacamole. –P.D.
417.861.6400, 4by4brewingcompany.com
816.800.4699, colonykc.com
PHOTO BY ANA ELLIOTT
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Belleville, IL
>Hofbräuhaus St. Louis-belleville
Set against a backdrop of flat farmland, Hofbräuhaus St. Louis-Belleville cuts a memorable figure in Belleville, Illinois. The brewery and beer hall opened in March and is a stateside satellite of historic Hofbräuhaus in Munich, Germany, which has operated since the 16th century; the local outpost was developed by father-and-son team Chuck and Chane Keller. Step inside the massive 30,000-square-foot space to sip classic Bavarian pours, including a hefewiezen, dunkel and house lager, complemented seasonally by beers like the Märzen and Oktoberfest. Beers are brewed on-site and offered alongside food items like jumbo pretzels and potato pancakes. –L.M. hofbrauhausstlouis.com PHOTO COURTESY HOfBRäUHaUS
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Lee Summit, MO
Cape Girardeau, MO
.Ebb and Flow Fermentations Grains & Taps In January, DeWayne Schaaf, longtime executive chef at Celebrations Restaurant in Cape Girardeau, Missouri, bought the restaurant from James and Pat Allen. Not long after, Schaaf, an avid homebrewer, announced plans to open a brewery and tasting room of his own, Ebb and Flow Fermentations. With plans to eventually focus on sour and wild/ mixed-fermentation beers, Ebb and Flow opened this summer, first functioning only as a craft-beer bar; this month, the brewery plans to introduce its first lineup of house beers. Ebb and Flow doesn’t have a core lineup, favoring a rotating selection: We recommend the Kornøl, made with Norwegian yeast and juniper branches, or the cranberry bière de garde. In addition to Ebb and Flow’s beers, Schaaf serves a small food menu in the tasting room and courtyard garden. –L.M.
Brad Boehm and Brian Bixby originally opened Grains & Taps in downtown Lee’s Summit, Missouri, in 2013 as a homebrew supply store and taproom. The pair planned to eventually add a brewery, but it remained on the backburner until 2018. Grains & Taps relocated to a new space in 2016, and earlier this year, suffered extensive damage following a serious fire. During the renovation, Boehm and Bixby installed a nanobrewery that could be used for homebrewing classes and small-batch production. So far, Grains & Taps has released a wide variety of beers, from IPAs and stouts to hazy New England IPAs and red ales. In May, Grains & Taps released a collaboration with Crane Brewing Co.: Oude Bruin Old Brown Ale, aged 18 months in spent J. Rieger & Co. whiskey barrels and Amigoni urban Winery wine barrels. –P.D.
facebook.com/ebbandflowfermentations
816.866.5827, grainsandtaps.com
PHOTO BY ELAINE ROHDE
St. Louis
>Brew Hub
Red Bud, IL
.Lieferbräu Brewery
Neosho, MO
Indian Springs Brewing Co. Early this month, brewer Todd Ebbinghaus and his wife, Tammy, will celebrate the one-year anniversary of their brewery, Indian Springs Brewing Co. Located in downtown Neosho, Missouri, the taproom building dates back to the 1890s. The brewery name honors local history, too: It’s named for the once-thriving settlement of nearby Indian Springs, a medical resort town of the same era whose healing waters were said to rival Eureka Springs, Arkansas. These days, the town of Indian Springs is long gone, but patrons can still find good medicine from the brewery’s 10 taps. This fall, try the South Brown & Down, a chocolatey English malt ale with a toffee-nut finish. –Rose Hansen
Family-owned Lieferbräu Brewery opened in the heart of Red Bud, Illinois, in late June, realizing a dream for longtime homebrewer Kris Liefer and his wife, Danielle, alongside Kirk and Stephanie Liefer, Kent and Karen Liefer, and Ray and Kara (née Liefer) Wagner. As head brewer, Kris is responsible for the range of German-style beers on offer at the taproom, including Double Crop Cream Ale; DaniBerry Wheat, a raspberry wheat; Midnight Wheat Dunkelweizen, Zwölf Kölsch and Lieferbräu Pilsner. Located in a building that dates back to 1888 and originally housed a millinery, the brewery and tasting room was lovingly renovated by the family to preserve the space’s history and character. –L.M.
Following the success of its award-winning brewery and tasting room in Lakeland, Florida, St. Louis-based Brew Hub opened an outpost and full-service restaurant in the Gateway City this past March. Founded by St. Louisan and former Anheuser-Busch executive Tim Schoen, Brew Hub’s St. Louis operation is led by general manager and executive chef Andy White, formerly of Schlafly Beer, and head brewer James Ottolini. Florida flagships like Keybilly Island Ale and Rome City IPA are served alongside St. Louis favorites like Gooey Butter Beer, a blonde ale brewed in-house on a four-barrel pilot system. Brew Hub has also brought some of the hottest names in craft beer to St. Louis, including Toppling Goliath out of Decorah, Iowa, which was available exclusively at the taproom this past spring. –L.M. 314.833.5453, tapbrewhub.com PHOTO BY MABEL SuEN
facebook.com/lieferbrau PHOTO BY STEPHANIE LIEFER
417.454.9498, indianspringsbrewing.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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BouleVard Brewing co.'S
rock & run Brewery
BouleVardia Sour griSette
and PuB'S hoPPy Sake
Provenance: Kansas City Style: Grisette (6.2% ABV) PairingS: Steamed mussels with lemon and french fries • Goat cheese-lemon-thyme tart
Provenance: Liberty, Missouri Style: American blonde ale (4.8% ABV) PairingS: Cheeseburger • Reuben • Garlicky mussels and french fries
Boulevard Brewing Co.'s barrel-fermented sour grisette was a team effort, made in collaboration with 2nd Shift Brewing in St. Louis; Central Standard Brewing in Wichita, Kansas; and Mikkeller Baghaven out of Denmark. Brewed for Boulevard’s 2018 Boulevardia street festival, the grisette features lemon peel and honeydew melon flavors and aromas, complemented by vanilla and oak from barrel fermentation and aging. The beer was released on draft for the festival and is available at Boulevard’s Kansas City Beer Hall while supplies last. –P.D.
Gene DeClue, co-owner and head brewer at Rock & Run Brewery and Pub in Liberty, Missouri, developed the smooth, easy-drinking Hoppy Sake using sake yeast. While other brewers have used sake yeast to produce Japanese rice-based lagers, DeClue’s blonde ale captured the flavor and aroma characteristics of a fruity saison with hints of stone fruit. Hoppy Sake’s crisp, dry finish especially complements pub fare, easily cutting through heavy or greasy meals. Medium gold in color, the beer is one of 40 available on tap at the tasting room. –P.D.
816.701.7247, boulevard.com
816.415.2337, rockandrunbrewery.com
colony handcraFted aleS'
StockyardS Brewing co.'S
douBle ShiFt Brewing co.'S
ShuttlehoP SerieS VerSion no. 6
French BottomS iPa
BlueBerry grind
Provenance: North Kansas City, Missouri Style: New England IPA (7% ABV) PairingS: Pork-belly burger with french fries • Quesadilla stuffed with poblano peppers and carnitas
Provenance: Kansas City Style: Farmhouse-style IPA (6.8% ABV) PairingS: Hot chicken sandwich • Fish and chips with a lemon-pepper remoulade
Provenance: Kansas City Style: Sour ale (4.3% ABV) PairingS: Lemon cake with blueberry-lemon glaze • Roasted chicken infused with sumac and lemon
At Colony Handcrafted Ales, brewer Rodney Beagle has introduced the Shuttlehop series, an ever-evolving lineup of hazy, hoppy ales. Hop combinations and recipes change from beer to beer in the series, including Version No. 6, a New England-style IPA that’s double dry-hopped. Made with reserved bitterness in mind, this installment uses four hops at four different intervals in the brewing process and was fermented with a Norwegian kveik yeast. Pineapple, nectarine, papaya and melon notes take center stage as the beer, available exclusively on tap at Colony, presents a subtle bitterness and a fluffy, smooth body. –P.D.
Inspired by the French settlers who once called Kansas City’s West Bottoms neighborhood home in the 1800s, French Bottoms IPA from Stockyards Brewing Co. debuted as a special release for the brewery’s second anniversary. Head brewer Micah Weichert adapted the recipes for the brewery’s saison and West Bottoms IPA to make French Bottoms, using peppery rye malt to create a dry finish. Wheat malt was also used to add sweetness and bolster the body and mouthfeel, while French chamomile and orange and lemon peels lended subtle herbal and citrusy aromas. French Bottoms IPA was released on tap earlier this year at the brewery’s tasting room. –P.D.
Far from your typical coffee ale, Double Shift Brewing Co.’s Blueberry Grind was made in collaboration with Messenger Coffee Co. The bright, effervescent sour beer was brewed with blueberry, lemon peel and coffee. Although not heavy on coffee flavor, the beer highlights Messenger’s Hafursa, a natural-processed Ethiopian Yirgacheffe roast. Double Shift brewer Bryan Stewart says the sour ale includes notes of blueberry cobbler and citrus from the coffee. Lactic acidity resulting from the souring process pulled sweetness from the beans, while Citra hops enhance the citrus profile. Blueberry Grind was sold on draft and in 500-milliliter bottles earlier this year at the Double Shift taproom. –P.D.
816.800.4699, colonykc.com
816.895.8880, stockyardsbrewing.com
816.304.7028, doubleshiftbrewing.com
Free State Brewing co.'S ciVil liFe Brewing co.'S loSt Signal Brewing co.'S
the angel & the Sword
mule cart SeSSion iPa
Provenance: St. Louis Style: Extra special bitter (4.6% ABV) PairingS: Bangers and mash • Mac ‘n’ cheese
Provenance: Springfield, Missouri Style: Session IPA (5% ABV) PairingS: Fresh tomatoes • Fruity sherbet
Boogiedown PilS Pil Provenance: Lawrence, Kansas Style: Pilsner (6.2% ABV) PairingS: Sautéed shrimp with arugula-mint pesto cavatappi • Lemon-pepper grilled chicken wrap with french fries and roasted lemon-garlic aïoli
Earlier this year, the brewers at Lost Signal Brewing Co. in Springfield, Missouri, teamed up with Home Brew Zoo, a local homebrewing club, to create Mule Cart Session IPA. The hoppy brew is loaded with Cascade and Citra hops, which produce a bold grapefruit-rind essence. This one isn’t for the faint of heart: Mule Cart is on the easy-drinking side for an IPA, but it’s still heavy with rich hoppy flavor. Mule Cart is available on draft at the Lost Signal taproom. –L.S.
Labeled an extra special bitter, The Angel & The Sword is really a style all its own. The beer features a mix of malts from around the world coupled with British yeast and hops. The beer pours a light amber with a creamy white head and an aroma that blends biscuity malts and woody notes. The aromas carry through to the flavor, with a bit of caramel mixed in. Although bitter is in the style’s name, the hops are fairly subtle. The Angel & The Sword is available on draft in Civil Life’s taproom. –Justin Phelps
For the past two years, Free State Brewing Co. in Lawrence, Kansas, has collaborated with Wichita-based Central Standard Brewing during the latter’s Sunflower Boogiedown festival. This year, the breweries collaborated on two beers for the fest, including Boogiedown Pils. The Pilsner was brewed with some unusual hops – peachy, lemony Grungeist, orangey Mandarina Bavaria and peppery, herbal Styrian Wolf, with hints of lemon and menthol. The crisp, dry beer had a complex hop profile. –P.D.
417.869.4755, lostsignalbrewing.com
thecivillife.com
785.843.4555, freestatebrewing.com
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mother'S BrewinG co.'S earthBound Beer'S meteor iPa
Schlafly Beer'S Paloma GoSe
SunShine chuGSuckle
Provenance: St. Louis Style: India pale ale (5% ABV) PairingS: Fried chicken • Salted caramel ice cream
Provenance: St. Louis Style: Gose (4.5% ABV) PairingS: Scallop ceviche • Oysters • Summer salad
Provenance: Springfield, Missouri Style: New England IPA (6.5% ABV) PairingS: Shrimp and grits • Strawberry-walnut salad
After moving into a bigger space just a few doors down on Cherokee Street last year, Earthbound Beer took another step in expanding its footprint: canning. Meteor IPA, the brewery’s flagship IPA, is made with Belma, Cascade and Columbus hops. The hazy, amber-colored beer pours with a thin white head and features melon and citrus aromas from the hops, combined with strong caramel notes from the malt. The flavors are much bigger than expected thanks to those sweet caramel malts matching the bitterness of the hops, although the hops win out in the end. Meteor IPA is available year-round on draft at Earthbound’s two taprooms and in 16-ounce cans. –J.P.
One offering from Schlafly Beer’s 2018 Cellar Selections series riffed on the Paloma, a tequila-based lime and grapefruit cocktail. Schlafly’s Paloma Gose features the flavors of sea salt and coriander inherent in the sour style, which pair nicely with the acidity and bitterness of grapefruit and lime; if you didn’t know better, you may mistake the inspiration for a Margarita. The beer pours a golden hue with a strong grapefruit aroma and bright carbonation. The flavor is sour but not mouth-puckering, and the salinity lingers, creating a nice, dry finish. Paloma Gose is a limited release available in 750-milliliter bottles while supplies last. –J.P.
Talk about walking on sunshine: Mother’s Brewing Co. has left its funky, flavorful mark on the New England IPA trend with Sunshine Chugsuckle, a light, drinkable brew. The beer features an intense citrusy aroma and flavor with a full, creamy mouthfeel – picture an orange Dreamsicle in beer form. Unlike some New England IPAs, Sunshine Chugsuckle’s hoppiness isn’t overwhelming, making it an ideal beer for those who don't prefer extreme bitterness. Sunshine Chugsuckle is available on draft at the Mother’s tasting room in Springfield, Missouri, and in bottles throughout Mother’s distribution area. –L.S.
314.769.9576, earthboundbeer.com
314.241.2337, schlafly.com
417.862.0423, mothersbrewing.com
crane BrewinG co.'S manGo laSSi Berliner weiSSe Provenance: Raytown, Missouri Style: Berliner weisse (4.3% ABV) PairingS: Wood-smoked roasted chicken with mango chutney • Roasted cauliflower au gratin
third wheel BrewinG'S B.o.S.S. Stout and B.o.S.S. coconut Variant Provenance: St. Peters, Missouri Style: Russian imperial stout (10.5% ABV) PairingS: New York strip steak • Bacon cheeseburger with sharp Cheddar
Crane Brewing Co.’s unique Mango Lassi Berliner Weisse came about through collaboration: Jeremy “Critter” Morton, beer manager at Mike’s Wine and Spirits and Brookside location manager Andy Doohan contacted Crane about teaming up on a special release. Crane head brewer Randy Strange proposed a German-style Berliner weisse inspired by lassi, the Indian yogurt-based drink. Strange added mango purée, vanilla beans from Mexico and Madagascar and lactose to make the beer; the result produced stone fruit and tropical citrus on the nose and tartness tempered by vanilla. Crane also distributes Mango Lassi as a limited-release in 375-milliliter bottles and kegs. –P.D.
Named one of the 50 Best New Breweries by BeerAdvocate, Third Wheel Brewing released its first bottled beer, B.O.S.S., in June to celebrate its one-year anniversary. B.O.S.S. is a big imperial stout with a great balance of malty sweetness and bitter hops. The beer has strong notes of caramel and espresso, but even at 10.5 percent ABV, it doesn’t drink like a high-proof beer. Head brewer Abbey Spencer also made a toasted coconut variant of B.O.S.S., which was released in bottles the same day. B.O.S.S. will be released again for Third Wheel’s second anniversary, as well as a new variant. B.O.S.S. is available on draft at the taproom and in 22-ounce bottles while supplies last. –J.P.
816.743.4132, cranebrewing.com
636.323.9810, thirdwheelbrewing.com
loGBoat BrewinG co. and 4 handS BrewinG co.'S yeah Buoy Provenance: Columbia, Missouri Style: India pale lager (4.6% ABV) PairingS: Gyro • Mixed greens with a citrus vinaigrette
4 handS BrewinG co.'S riPPle white ale
narrow GauGe BrewinG co.'S kofe
Provenance: St. Louis Style: Belgian white ale (5% ABV) PairingS: White pizza • Spinach, bacon, Provolone and onion omelet
Provenance: Florissant, Missouri Style: Imperial coffee stout (11.5% ABV) PairingS: Brownie à la mode • Blue cheese-portobello burger
Pouring a slightly foggy straw-gold with a bright white head, 4 Hands Brewing Co.’s Ripple White Ale proves that looks can be deceiving. Although light in color, the beer has big flavor thanks to Belgian yeast and orange peel. The aroma is similarly full, featuring notes of bubble gum and a soft spiciness. Ripple is available year-round in 12-ounce cans, on tap at the St. Louis taproom and throughout Missouri, Illinois and Kansas. –J.P.
Made with beans from Blueprint Coffee in St. Louis, Narrow Gauge Brewing Co.’s Kofe – the Russian word for coffee – is a big, bold beer. The deep black color is striking, as is the strong coffee aroma and slight sweetness that wafts off of the dark-brown foamy head. The first sip is a mixture of intense chocolate notes and cold-brewed coffee. Kofe is a limited release available on draft and in 16-ounce cans at the Narrow Gauge tasting room. –J.P.
314.436.1559, 4handsbrewery.com
314.831.3222, narrowgaugestl.com
When two beloved Missouri breweries come together to make a summer thirst-quencher, it’s only fitting that the result is a hybrid itself. Together, brewers at Logboat Brewing Co. in Columbia and 4 Hands Brewing Co. in St. Louis combined the crisp and clean qualities of a lager with the big, bold hops of an IPA to produce Yeah Buoy. The unofficial beer style is known as an India pale lager; pop open a can of Yeah Buoy and you’ll immediately be hit with grapefruit and resinous hop aromas. While there’s a touch of hoppy bitterness, those notes are balanced by a crisp finish, which features subtle fruity and pine notes from Simcoe, Amarillo and Cascade hops. Yeah Buoy is a summer release available on draft and in 12-ounce cans throughout the St. Louis area and central Missouri. –J.P. 314.436.1559, 4handsbrewery.com 573.397.6786, logboatbrewing.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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<pink boots society st. louis unites women in beer For more than 10 years, Pink Books Society has sought to unite and support women in the beer community. A nonprofit organization, Pink Boots was founded to connect “the female movers and shakers in the beer industry" across the country. In St. Louis, Troy Bedik, brewer at Civil Life Brewing Co., was inspired to found a chapter by Pink Boots president Laura ulrich, herself a Gateway City native. Bedik, alongside co-founder Johanna Foege of Perennial Artisan Ales, hosted the first official local chapter meeting in April. Today, fellow chapter officers include Libby Crider of 2nd Shift Brewing, Stephanie Durnell of Brew Hub, Sarah rybicki of International Tap House and Katie Herrera of Craft republic. Nationally and locally, Pink Boots invites women from across the industry to join, from brewers and cicerones to servers and writers. Bedik says her goal with the St. Louis chapter is to give women in the industry more empowerment. –L.M.
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Since opening in 2011, Mother’s Brewing Co. has transformed the beer culture in Springfield, Missouri, quickly becoming one of the state’s most acclaimed breweries. As of February, St. Louis-area residents can now enjoy Mother’s beers. Four of the brewery’s core offerings are available year-round on St. Louis shelves: Lil’ Helper, an American IPA; Three Blind Mice, a brown ale; Towhead, an American blonde ale; and Hands Down, an American pale ale. St. Louis craft-beer enthusiasts can also enjoy seasonal releases from Mother’s like Winter Grind, a coffee stout made in collaboration with Mudhouse, a Springfield-based coffee roaster, plus Sunshine Chugsuckle, a new year-round offering inspired by New England-style IPAs. Mother’s beers are available throughout the St. Louis area, both on draft and in cans at bars, restaurants, grocery stores and liquor stores. –L.S.
facebook.com/pinkbootssocietystl
417.862.0423, mothersbrewing.com
PHOTO By MADISON SANDErS
PHOTO By ANA ELLIOTT
<alpha brewing co.
,kansas city’s draftpak
Originally, Derrick Langeneckert planned to open a second location of Alpha Brewing Co. at 4310 Fyler Ave. in Tower Grove South. Instead, the new 13,000-square-foot brewery, taproom and beer garden ended up being a relocation for Alpha, which closed its original Downtown location for good in December. The new Alpha, which debuted in March, features a much larger taproom – 2,800 square feet to be exact – with a large curved bar and refurbished wood booth seating, plus a spacious beer garden. Behind the bar, Alpha has gained a following for beers like Atheist Ale, a Belgian-style IPA brewed with Citra hops, and Delphian, a sour blonde aged in spent Chardonnay barrels. The new location also offers Puerto rican-, Dominican- and Cuban-inspired eats from Plantain Girl to pair with its beers. Try chef Mandy Estrella’s ropa vieja plate, with braised flank steak, black beans, white rice, maduros (ripe plantains), avocado and pickled onions. Dubbed the Alphateria, the kitchen riffs on the theme with food served on trays and cafeteria-style food specials. –L.M.
Before soft-launching DraftPak as a startup in late 2016, Colin Elwell worked in the bar industry for several years. He knew firsthand how troublesome it can be to set up kegs at events, and decided to develop a better method. DraftPak taps directly onto any size keg without needing external hoses or pumps, and the unit holds a carbon dioxide tank inside. All you have to do is twist the DraftPak onto the keg and add ice to your cooler. From there, beer travels through a stainless steel coil inside the device, which cools the beer as it’s being poured. Elwell researched and developed early prototypes of the product in his garage for more than a year before launching DraftPak. That trial-and-error process led to a keg that poured well consistently with minimal foam, whether it was cold or not. DraftPak units sell for $350, with additional options available, and are also available for rent for $45 at Kansas City-area liquor stores such as Gomer’s Midtown. Elwell, who has personally built every DraftPak ordered so far, is planning an official hard launch for the product this fall. –P.D.
alphabrewingcompany.com
785.380.8202, draftpak.com
PHOTO By MABEL SuEN
PHOTO COurTESy DrAFTPAK
relocates, opens alphateria in st. louis
<springfield’s mother’s brewing co. expands distribution to st. louis area
simplifies serving beer in kegs
>omega yeast expands to st. louis
Ten years ago, brewers were pretty limited when it came to liquid yeast for beer production, because only a few big companies supplied the majority of breweries in the U.S. At these massive operations, large batches of yeast are propagated in a lab and often sit in refrigerators or walk-in coolers for long stretches of time before arriving at a brewery; as a result, the quality from one batch to the next can vary, which in turn impacts the beer it goes into. When Lance Shaner and Mark Schwarz founded Omega Yeast in Chicago five years ago, they hoped to offer brewers a better, fresher option – and more varieties of it. Today, Omega’s team of microbiologists, homebrewers and professional brewing staff work out of the Chicago office and lab, where specialized propagation methods are used to generate both traditional and
new yeast strains. More than 80 strains are available, ranging from liquid yeast for classic Bavarian wheat ales to exclusive Norwegian and Lithuanian strains previously only used by veteran homebrewers. Last fall, Omega expanded to St. Louis, opening up shop in the Shaw neighborhood with a team of marketing, customer service and business professionals. As the largest liquid yeast supplier in the Midwest and one of the top in St. Louis – clients include Side Project Brewing, Wellspent Brewing Co. and Perennial Artisan Ales – Omega wants to make further inroads with the professional and homebrewing communities in Missouri. Schwarz, who is based out of the Shaw offices and lives nearby, eventually hopes to turn the space into a hub for craft-beer bottle shares and industry events. –L.M. omegayeast.com
PHOTO COUrTeSY OMegA YeAST
A member of the Omega Yeast team in the company's Chicago labs.
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gateway custom malt offers local and customized malt Grains that are malted for beer production like barley aren’t commonly grown in Missouri – or even in the Midwest – yet it’s an essential ingredient for brewers and distillers. With Gateway Custom Malt, owners Sherry Raleigh-Adams and Mike Adams are making it possible to source malt locally. The duo malt barley and wheat in small quantities at their facility in Montgomery City, Missouri, by soaking grain (usually barley and wheat, but also rye, oats and more) in water to germinate and then drying it. Most of their clients are located within 250 miles of the facility. The operation's small-batch nature – with an average batch size of 1½ to 2 tons – also means that customers have more control over the final product. Focused on bringing malt production back to Missouri, the partners also source as much grain from local farmers as possible. –L.M. gatewaymalt.com
martin city pizza and taproom expands to kansas The flagship location of Martin City Brewing Co.’s Pizza and Taproom, adjacent to the brewery in kansas City, now has a sister location in Overland Park, kansas. Located in the Mission Farms neighborhood, the 150-seat restaurant and 50-seat patio serves pizza, sandwiches, salads and appetizers. Behind the bar, you can choose from a rotating selection of 13 Martin City beers on tap, including year-round favorites such as Hard Way IPA, Belgian Style Blond and Operation: yoga Pants, a gluten-free golden ale. –P.D. 913.387.4344, martincitybrewingcompany.com
crane brewing co. at the great american beer festival each year, denver hosts the Great American Beer Festival, which welcomes thousands of breweries and tens of thousands of patrons to sample beers from across the country. In 2017, Crane Brewing Co. in Raytown, Missouri, was one of just 22 breweries from across the country to be chosen as a participant in Paired, the festival’s elite food- and beer-pairing event. For the event, Crane's beet weiss and gooseberry Gose were chosen by the brewery as beers that could lend themselves well to unique food pairings. Chef Gavin Fine of Roadhouse Pub and eatery in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, was paired with the brewery, and was sent bottles of both beers prior to the event so he could develop ideal food pairings. At the event, Crane’s beet weiss was served with Bovine and Swine – black-and-blue sausage, fresh lobster and pickled shallots on soft rolls – while the gooseberry Gose was matched with grilled unagi and a tempura-fried rice cake with a sweet and savory soy-miso butter. Although the pairings didn’t take home the top prize, just the invitation was an honor – Crane was the only Missouri brewery to compete in the event. –J.P. 816.743.4132, cranebrewing.com
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>show-me brewing in springfield expands
How many breweries are open in Springfield, Missouri? The answer might depend on who you ask. That’s because one the city’s most intriguing breweries has mostly operated under the radar. Homebrew-supply shop Show-Me Brewing opened in April 2016 with co-owner and longtime homebrewer Andy Pearsall at the helm. With a microbrew license under its belt, the shop opened with six of its own beers on tap; the other six were dedicated to commercial brews from across the country. As demand for his beers grew, Pearsall dedicated all 12 taps to Show-Me Brewing beers. And because he brews on such a small scale – making 10-gallon batches at a time – Pearsall has been able to experiment with new creations with little to no financial risk. The gamble has paid off: The shop’s more unusual offerings include a black IPA, cappuccino-cream ale and Pepper in the Rye, a rye pale ale made with serrano and jalapeño peppers. Pearsall now has to brew almost every day to keep up with demand, which has the microbrewery draining eight barrels a month on average. The demand is so high, in fact, it’s quickly becoming the fastest growing part of the business. –Ettie Berneking 417.315.8617, showmebrewing.com PHOTO By BRAd zWeeRInk
Earthbound Satellite introduced cocktails to complement its beer selection, including Conan the Blue-Berrian (pictured below).
.earthbound satellite lands in st. louis In just four years, earthbound Beer has grown by leaps and bounds. not only did the brewery trade its tiny Cherokee Street taproom for larger digs down the street in May, it debuted a second location at 1921 S. ninth St. in Soulard, dubbed earthbound Satellite. The new bar is described by owners Rebecca Schranz, Stuart Keating, Jeff Siddons and Robin Johnson as “craft-cocktail futurism,” featuring a range of cocktails alongside earthbound beers. The lounge-meets-dive bar is appointed with outer space-themed art, and the original antique oak bar was updated with a luminous new look. Pull up a seat to try otherworldly cocktails like Conan the Blue-Berrian, with tequila, blueberry-mint simple syrup, lemon juice, grapefruit bitters and sparkling wine, or opt for rotating brews like Second Lunch pale ale or Meteor IPa. a collection of shareable snacks may be introduced down the road; think Chinese sausage tacos with lotus steamed buns or sour-cream potato chips topped with crème fraîche and furikake. –L.M. facebook.com/earthboundsatellite PHOTO BY MaDISOn STRIngfeLLOW
craft beer cellar opens shared space with living room in st. louis
hopskeller brewing co. returns to waterloo, illinois, bigger and better almost a month after Matthew Schweizer opened Hopskeller Brewing Co. in September 2016, tragedy struck: The Waterloo, Illinois, brewery endured a serious fire and had to close. Schweizer didn’t let the experience deter him, though. almost two years later, Hopskeller reopened in the same space with a larger brewing system and an expanded kitchen and patio. at Hopskeller, you’ll find beers largely inspired by those of northern england and the Pacific northwest, including the english mild and Moorgate London-style porter, as well as Illinois Common, a sweet, earthy ale based on the Kentucky Common style. In addition to its brews, Hopskeller mixes a range of cocktails, including a spiked basil lemonade made with vodka from southern Illinois distillery Stumpy’s Spirits, and a Paloma with Rummy grapefruit Soda from nearby excel Bottling Co. Pair your drink with one of the brewery’s wood-fired pizzas, sausages, brats or small plates, including pub-style pretzel twists served with honey mustard and housemade cheese sauce. –L.M.
four years after opening Craft Beer Cellar in Clayton, Missouri, with his brother, Ryan, Brandon nickelson has expanded the franchise to the Southampton neighborhood of St. Louis. The craft-beer bottle shop and bar debuted its second location in July at 5760 Chippewa St. in a shared space with Living Room, the popular Maplewood, Missouribased coffee shop. Located in a former auto service station, the building retains many of its original features, including painted white brick and updated garage doors above the tasting room bar that can be opened during warmer weather. The new location offers an expanded bar program, boasting 14 taps dedicated to local, regional and national favorites like an apricot gose from Perennial artisan ales in St. Louis and Koi Sake Lager from Off Color Brewing in Chicago. The tasting bar is shared with Living Room on one side of the space; the other half of the building is dedicated to Craft Beer Cellar’s retail, with more than 700 beers organized by region, plus a large selection of chilled beers. –L.M.
>stacey uchtman brings new collaboration brews to white river brewing co.
There’s no room for mediocrity when it comes to White River Brewing Co.’s beers. That’s thanks in part to Stacey Uchtman, who joined White River in Springfield, Missouri, as head brewer in 2014. Since joining the team, Uchtman has brought a “factory-forward mind-set” to White River; previously, Uchtman, who was raised on a dairy farm, studied brewing science at the Siebel Institute of Technology in Chicago. Uchtman has recently expanded White River’s brewing partnerships to include some very notable collaborations. Take, for example, Mahogany Lager, a beer made in partnership with historic Springfield watering hole Lindberg’s Tavern, or Date Lady Double, a red ale made with local date syrup from Date Lady, also based on Commercial Street. Uchtman’s eye for creative collaborations and passion for brewing science continue to keep White River patrons clamoring for pour after perfect pour. –L.S. 417.869.1366, whiteriverbrewingco.com PHOTO BY ana eLLIOTT
314.222.0333, facebook.com/cbcsouthcity
618.939.2337, hopskeller.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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Springfield Brewing Co. is now bottling and distributing two of its most popular beers: Mex-y-Cali and Clove Hitch Hefeweizen.
.springfield brewing co.
begins bottling two best-selling beers
If your beer fridge looks a little packed, there’s good news: you can ditch a few of those growlers now that Springfield Brewing Co. is bottling and distributing two of its most popular beers: Mex-y-Cali and Clove Hitch Hefeweizen. The subtly spiced and fruity Clove Hitch has been on the summer lineup since 1998, previously bringing home two great American Beer Festival awards in the South german-Style Hefeweizen category; the beer won gold in 2006 and bronze in 2008. A few years ago, the brewery unveiled its refreshing copper ale, Mex-y-Cali. These two crushable summer brews have been seasonal staples for the past few years, but fans had to head to the brewery to order a pint or two. And that’s not the only way this Springfield brewery is satiating the city’s thirst for craft beer. The brewery recently moved Mex-y-Cali into its core year-round lineup. So when those winter blues set in this season, simply slice up a few limes and crack open a taste of summer. –E.B. 417.832.8277, springfieldbrewingco.com PHOTO By BRAnDOn ALMS
remembering mike arnold, champion of the st. louis beer scene In June, St. Louis mourned the loss of Mike Arnold, a champion for the local food-and-drink scene and owner of the beloved 14-passenger bus gus gus Fun Bus. Arnold was a passionate supporter of the St. Louis craft-beer scene in particular, promoting local businesses on social media and through his work with the bus. Arnold's death was unexpected and tragic: After witnessing a carjacking in Downtown St. Louis, he attempted to take a photo of the robbery. The assailants struck Arnold with the vehicle, and after almost a week in intensive care, he succumbed to his injuries. when news of the tragedy was first released, Troika Brodsky wasted no time in rallying support for Arnold and his family from the St. Louis community. As executive director of the St. Louis Brewers guild, Brodsky personally knew the impact that Arnold’s support had on local businesses. Brodsky established a goFundMe fundraiser – which is still active, having raised $32,520 at press time – and encouraged business owners to support Arnold and his family through donations. The community responded in full force, resulting in myriad local benefits and tributes. At Anheuser-Busch, the research pilot brewery division released a schwarzbier, or black beer, dedicated to Arnold. Poured exclusively at the Anheuser-Busch Biergarten, the beer raised a total of $5,000 for Arnold’s family. –L.M. gofundme.com/medical-fund-for-mike-arnold
foeder crafters of america relocates and expands It’s hard to believe that Foeder Crafters of America will only be celebrating its fifth anniversary next year; in just four short years, the St. Louis-based company has become the premier manufacturer of foeders (pronounced foo-ders) in the U.S. The company was the first – and remains the only – foeder producer in America, getting its start locally with breweries like Side Project Brewing and Perennial Artisan Ales. The massive oak fermentation tanks serve a vital purpose for brewers by letting oxygen slowly enter the beer, allowing it to mature at a more consistent pace than smaller barrels. In the past year, founder Matt walters has added or expanded work with local and regional breweries, including 2nd Shift Brewing, Six Mile Bridge Beer and Martin City Brewing Co. working with brewers at home and across the country led to a relocation to a larger facility in St. Louis County and new products, including a stainless steel cone fermenting foeder. walters attributes the company’s growth to the expansion in the craft-beer industry in general. Foeder Crafters recently recruited Becca Senn as its new president; formerly of 2nd Shift, Senn now oversees marketing and client acquisition, allowing walters to focus on product innovation. –L.M. 314.482.9914, foedercrafters.com
>craft republic expands to kansas city
In just a year, St. Louis-based craft-beverage distribution company Craft Republic has seen tremendous growth. Founded by Brian Dix in June 2017, Craft Republic has been on an especially strong growth tear in the past 10 months: Since January, Dix says business has doubled. The company was initially formed to fill a void in the craft-beer distribution market – as Dix says, smaller breweries were having difficulty finding ardent advocates for their products in the sea of national and regional craft-beer brands. Although it started with beer, Craft Republic’s portfolio has expanded to include other locally made beverages, from Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co.’s cold brew to Confluence Kombucha to Soulard Island spirits. In March, Craft Republic expanded to the Kansas City area, offering its clients’ products there and now representing local favorites like Double Shift Brewing Co. and Crane Brewing Co.; as a result, after a prolonged absence, Crane is now available again in the St. Louis market. Prior to March, Craft Republic had about 20 clients in the Kansas City area; as of August, that number had climbed to almost 100. Dix says he’s eyeing the Columbia, Missouri, market next, and eventually wants to expand into Springfield as well. –L.M. 314.241.5458, ourcraftrepublic.com PHOTO By MADISOn STRIngFeLLOw
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RobeRt beRendzen holds up a long, copper instrument. “Do you know what this is? It’s a whiskey thief,” he says. The cylindrical tool is used for just what it implies: tasting whiskey straight out of the barrel. He’s standing in the warm rickhouse at Woodsmen Distilling in Higbee, Missouri, which he built himself. It can hold up to 310 barrels, but he’s here to taste something that fills only three. After removing the bung, the barrel’s stopper, Berendzen siphons out a nip of his pet project while his dutiful blue heeler, Dottie, is laying at his feet.
raising a gla ss Two local farm distilleries prove that quality grain-to-glass spirits start in the field.
Berendzen is focused on producing everything himself, from growing grains to making his own staves and barrels. In addition to Woodsmen, he runs Barrel 53 Cooperage, Midwest Stave Exchange and four farms, where, among other things, he raises grains for his spirits as well as cattle; the spent grain is even fed back to the cows.
Although Berendzen first came to mid-Missouri while working in construction, he later opened the stave exchange and eventually graduated to barrel-making. WrITTEn By nAnCy STIlES Today, his cooperage sells barrels all over WooDSMEn DISTIllIng PHoToS By kEITH BorgMEyEr the world, including in Spain, Scotland STuMPy'S SPIrITS PHoToS By juDD DEMAlInE “They said it couldn’t be done,” he says defiantly, and Peru. After researching distilling for taking a sip of the 130-proof corn whiskey. “130 about 10 years and planting grain in 2015, proof in a white-oak barrel would take your breath away – it’d be strong. he figured he had everything in place to open his own operation. Harsh. Burn, burn, burn.” This whiskey, however does not: It’s aging in a Berendzen's ability to control the entire process – from raising barrel made of 100 percent pecan wood. grains to aging his spirits in his own barrels – is rare. He represents a new wave of farm distillers in America who are seeking more “[Pecan barrels are largely] unheard of, because only white oak has tyloses command over every facet of grain-to-glass spirit production. in [the wood], and tyloses is what keeps [barrels] from leaking,” Berendzen explains. “Well, I’m always that way; I’ve gotta prove somebody wrong. So “If you’re making all the barrels and got the opportunity to raise your they were right, partially – when I made the first barrels, they looked like own grains, why not be legal and let other people taste it?," he says. a water fountain – [I tested them with water, and] water poured out. But I "I wanna know where it’s coming from, what I’m getting, what I’m figured out the parts of the tree I could use, and I made pecan barrels.” using. I wanna use the strains that I think are right. And of course, it’s a cost thing, too, but if you're making the barrels, you're growing the For Berendzen, it was worth the time to experiment with using pecan grains, you’re aging your own product on-site, you should be getting wood – a project that large cooperages typically don't take on. what you want.” Inspired Local Food Culture
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In addition to the forthcoming pecan barrel-aged whiskey, Woodsmen makes bourbon, corn whiskey, rye whiskey, apple brandy and coconut rum; the latter two are flavored with fruit pasteurized at the distillery. Berendzen grows everything – corn, rye and wheat – except malted barley, which he calls “another animal.” “There’s very little rye grown in Missouri, and I don’t really understand [why],” he says. “Rye and wheat are very similar – the way you grow it, when you plant it, when you harvest it, the whole deal. We grow our own rye; our strain came from North Dakota, where we got our seed from.” With craft distilling on the rise, growing your own corn, wheat, barley and rye can set a distillery – and its spirits – apart from the competition. Of course, farming requires land, equipment, money, labor and a skill set that many new distilleries can’t afford. Regional distilleries like Wood Hat Spirits in New Florence, Missouri, and Pinckney Bend Distillery in New Haven, Missouri, have been experimenting with spirits made with heirloom varieties of corn, grown either on their respective properties or by local farmers. (And Wood Hat even finishes its Double Wood Bourbon in a charred pecan barrel.) Because most distilleries, large and small, use yellow dent corn, changing variables like the type of corn or grain used, aging conditions and water are ways distillers can impact the flavor and mouthfeel of a spirit. According to the American Craft Spirits Association (ACSA), craft distilling is up 20 percent in the last year as of fall 2017, with more than 1,500 craft distilleries operating in the U.S., although that accounts for less than 3 percent of market share. Of those 1,589, 33 are located in Missouri, eight in Kansas and 38 in Illinois. The ACSA anticipates that over the next decade, craft spirits will become as disruptive to the liquor industry as craft beer has been for the brewing industry. Even the little guys are growing solidly: Berendzen started with a 5-gallon still roughly six years ago, then upgraded to 50, followed by his current 350. He’s about to upgrade again – this time to a 1,200-gallon still – and plans to build two more rickhouses “soon as I get the time.” Woodsmen doesn’t distribute outside of Higbee yet; Berendzen says he just doesn’t have enough employees to ramp up production. For now, you can find his spirits at the tasting room, and at half a dozen nearby liquor stores and restaurants, where Berendzen and his wife deliver cases themselves. And with so many other businesses and obligations on the farm to manage, he can't dedicate all of his time to the distillery. “I don’t go out there and promote it too much,” he shrugs. “It could overwhelm me real quick, if my product is as good as I think it is. With 200 barrels, they could run me out if it was a hit, and distributors took it all over. If you have a distributor and he says, I want 10,000 bottles, we’re in trouble.” Besides, Berendzen isn’t done experimenting: He plans to make another 20 or 30 pecan barrels, as well as whiskey from spelt, a grain related to wheat. A vodka is in the works, too, plus an event center that will house his distilling equipment, which currently resides in a building meant to dry lumber. “I feel like we’ve done this right – we’re making quality barrels using white oak, growing our own grains, aging the spirits,” he says. “I was licensed for two years, and I never opened the doors, because I wanted a quality product. I didn’t want to be known for selling moonshine lemonade. I wanted to be known for bourbons and whiskeys, so I waited. My point is, I felt like we did everything the right way.” Inspired Local Food Culture
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“You’ve got craft distilleries, then grain-to-glass distilleries, then farm distilleries, with people growing a portion of their own grains, then you’ve got single-source distilleries. We grow every kernel of grain that goes into those bottles. Which is great – we get access to the highest-quality, freshest ingredients in the world.” -Adam Stumpf, Stumpy's Spirits
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AdAm Stumpf is just one of the many distillers who use Robert Berendzen’s barrels, but the two have a little more in common: Stumpf and his wife, Laura, grow all their own grains for their Columbia, Illinois, distillery, Stumpy’s Spirits. “It’s super rare that people make their own vodka,” Stumpf says. “It’s very cost affordable to go out and buy bulk ethanol, basically – neutral-grain spirits from other companies. It’s crazy, I never knew how prevalent it was. Even a lot of the distilleries that make their own whiskey will go out and buy that base for their vodka or gin. We joke around – if you want to find a real grain-to-glass distillery, go find their grain mill.” Stumpf first started brewing beer as an engineering student at Missouri S&T in Rolla, Missouri, and worked in production logistics for Anheuser-Busch after college. He then attended Washington University to earn his MBA, where he took a life-changing entrepreneurship course from David Poldoian, another Anheuser-Busch alum. Part of the course involved developing a business plan; at first, Stumpf thought he’d pitch a craft brewery, but he realized it would be easier to integrate his family’s farm into operations for a craft distillery. It also didn’t hurt that he had already been making moonshine in a 5-gallon still. Over the better part of the next year, he and Laura eventually convinced themselves that what looked good on paper would actually work. In 2013, the couple “basically collaterized everything that we own – house, cars, wedding rings, I mean everything,” to get a bank loan, and bought equipment from a Colorado distillery that was going out of business. They purchased 10 acres in Monroe County from his family, who have been farming the land for eight generations. They rent an additional 40 acres from Stumpf’s parents to grow every single kernel of grain that goes into their spirits. Stumpf himself plants and harvests the crops, with help from his father. “You’ve got craft distilleries, then grain-to-glass distilleries, then farm distilleries, with people growing a portion of their own grains, then you’ve got single-source distilleries,” Stumpf says. "We grow every kernel of grain that goes into those bottles. Which is great – we get access to the highest-quality, freshest ingredients in the world.” Because everything is grown on-site, and Stumpy’s even uses its own hard limestone well water, Stumpf says his spirits have the same sort of terroir as wine. Thanks to natural sinkholes in Monroe County, rainwater filters through dirt, sand and limestone into a large aquifer right under the distillery. “Let’s just talk bourbon: We do 90-proof bourbon, which is 10 proof higher than a lot of the standard 80 proofs,” he explains. “Well, if it’s 90 proof, that means it’s 45 percent alcohol by volume, which means it’s 55 percent water by volume. So if you’re going to spend four years making something, put it in a bottle, and at the end of the day it’s going to be a majority water, you better be [using] some darn good water.” Stumpf believes the quality and distinctiveness of his water is evident in the final products: In fact, Stumpy’s Old Monroe Bourbon won bronze last year at the American Craft Spirits Awards. “You get a lot more character with well water, and oddly enough, it changes the mouthfeel quite a bit too,” he says. “It’ll smooth the whiskey out, because limestone well water gives us that hardness, which kind of helps buffer pH. Whiskey is very acidic, so as we buffer that pH up, it gets smoother and has a creamier mouthfeel.” It was important to Stumpf to include his family farm in the distillery, but it also came from a consideration of what he calls value proposition. If a craft distillery is sourcing grain from one of a handful of distributors – or even buying the spirit base from one of a few manufacturers – it ends up putting a younger product, made with the same ingredients, on the market at a higher price. “We decided we needed to put value in a bottle, and that value is going to be our region,” he says. “We take the Napa Valley approach to making booze: Just like grapes, different growing conditions are going to give different things, like grain, different flavor. That’s why we decided [to] go all in and grow 100 percent of our own grain and use 100 percent of our own water. When we put something in a bottle, we can be confident we’re giving the consumer real, true value.” Stumpy’s has also started doing collaborations on both sides of the Mississippi River. Its peach vodka, made with peaches from Eckert’s in Belleville, Illinois, is a best-seller. Currently aging at the distillery are two malt whiskeys distilled from beer: Brewers from Hopskeller Brewing Co. and Stubborn German Brewing Co., both in Waterloo, Illinois, made wort – basically beer without the hops – for Stumpf to distill. He’s also making River Barons, “a bi-state rye whiskey, if that’s a thing,” with David Weglarz from StilL 630 in St. Louis. Stumpf estimates that he usually has around 12 recipes aging at any given time. Like Woodsmen Distilling, Stumpy’s is in the process of building the infrastructure it needs to increase production. That means not only additional stills, but more grain storage, space for grain processing and a 1,000-barrel rickhouse, among other things. One of the most exciting additions at Stumpy’s will be a malthouse. Currently, the distillery has to send its barley, grown on the farm, to Michigan to be malted (soaked in water to germinate and then dried), but eventually, Stumpf will be able to malt on-site, bringing everything in house. “It’s gonna give us a lot more flexibility and innovation, because we can now not only malt barley, we can Inspired Local Food Culture
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malt Bloody Butcher red [heirloom] corn and basically anything we grow,” he says, “so we should be able to come up with some really unique flavor profiles that just don’t exist anywhere, because the ingredients aren’t available.” The expansion will triple the square footage at Stumpy’s Spirits, and allow Stumpf to increase production from its current pace, which is about four 53-gallon barrels per week, by about 10 times to 40. Grain storage will increase from about 1,500 bushels to 15,000. Over the next few years, Stumpf says consumers will see the Stumpy’s portfolio transition from clear spirits to mostly brown, as his whiskey and bourbon continues to age. He’s experimenting with different types of corn, as well, like the heirloom Bloody Butcher and sweet white corn, and he plans on trying even more in the coming years. “A lot of people kinda stick to a few [spirits] recipes,” Stumpf says, “but we’ve had so much fun experimenting with grains in the field that we can bring that into the distillery and see what it turns into. Sometimes we’ll see what other folks are doing and do the exact opposite, to try to do something super unique. This white corn is absolutely crazy; it’s a hybrid that was made in central Illinois [and] designed for feeding cattle. But the cool thing about it is, the reason the cattle like it so much is [that] it’s a sweet corn. We [thought], if the corn tastes better on the cob, it should taste better in the whiskey, too.”
S
For Berendzen back in Higbee, waiting is part of the job. “We try and make real authentic bourbon – no extra additives, no sugars, no cutting the time back, no mixing the young whiskeys with the older,” he says. “What I think sets us apart is the way we do it. We wait it out.” It’s a product that requires patience, because, as he says, if it’s as good as he thinks it is, it’ll be worth the wait. “As you can tell, I’m country – I'm as country as they get,” he says, sipping the last of the pecan-barrel whiskey he pulled from the whiskey thief. “It’s really neat for me, [things like] Stumpy’s and other distilleries winning awards using our barrels. The public seems to really enjoy our products, our tasting room and our tours. I’ve got people calling me from all over to do speeches – I was at a Rotary Club, [where] doctors and all them highfalutin guys get together; they asked me to come and do a presentation [on bourbon]. For a country guy, it can be somewhat overwhelming. I’m pretty humble, and I don’t need all that hype, but it’s neat.” He pats the pecan barrel as if it were his beloved pup, Dottie. The barrel is signed by a few people close to Berendzen – his mother, his aunt and uncle from Kentucky, his wife, his daughter, his son-in-law, two employees – who were there when he put the whiskey in to age. The whiskey will be ready any day now, and just about all 700 of the resulting bottles (at $175 a pop) have already been sold. “It’s neat,” he says again, nodding his head. “Made a pure pecan barrel and aged whiskey in it, ‘cause they said it couldn’t be done.” Satisfied, he puts the whiskey thief away and locks up the rickhouse. Dottie follows his lead and runs ahead toward the cooperage. She knows the drill – back to work. Stumpy’s Spirits, 1727 Centerville Road, Columbia, Illinois, stumpysspirts.com; Woodsmen Distilling, 7239 Highway A, Higbee, Missouri, facebook.com/woodsmendistilling Inspired Local Food Culture
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If you’re a fan of musician Tom Waits, Small Change, the new St. Louis watering hole from the owners of Planter’s House, will feel familiar. Named for one of Waits’ albums, you’ll find cocktails like the Jockey Full of Bourbon, featuring Planter’s House Four Roses Single Barrel No. 3, Blanco vermouth, Amaro Nonino and Angostura bitters. The low-key spot is known for fun and affordable cocktails as well as its diverse beer list, from $2 cans of Stag to the $9 Mikkeller blueberry Berliner weisse. We recently caught up with general manager Harrison Massie to find out where he likes to dine and grab drinks around town when he’s off the clock. –Katherine herricK
with Harrison Massie general manager,
small change
ImagIne you have one entIre day to dedIcate to dInIng out In St. louIS: Where Would you grab breakfaSt, lunch and dInner, and What Would you be orderIng at each Spot? Foodwise, I’m a bit limited – I’m allergic to gluten and dairy, but there’s still plenty of great options for me out there! [For] breakfast, I’d probably get tacos at Egg: chorizo and carne asada. They’re always super flavorful. Lunch would most likely be [at] Grace Meat + Three: herb-roasted beef, cucumber salad, beets, roasted cauliflower with chermoula (which is currently the best thing I’ve had in a while!) and unsweetened iced tea. Dinner is a toss up: I’d make my fiancée decide between Baiku [Sushi Lounge] for a Green Dragon [roll], a Clover roll and some unfiltered sake, or Nudo House for the Hebrew Hammer [ramen] with gluten-free noodles and dairy-free soft serve. I hadn’t had soft serve since I was 10, so it’s a big deal!
egg
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Who or What do you belIeve IS a hIdden gem In the St. louIS food Scene? The Cut on Cherokee [Street]. You can see the skill and talent in that menu. Also, Gooseberries –amazing food, super affordable, great brunch buffet, super sweet people. You can’t go wrong. What’S your favorIte drInk, and Where In St. louIS are you orderIng It? Tim Wiggins has ruined my life with his Golden State cocktail at Retreat Gastropub. Nothing will ever be as good ever again. Here’s hoping it never gets taken off menu!
gooSeberrIeS
Where do you go for late-nIght eatS and/or a nIghtcap? For late-night eats, Mission Taco Joint [in] Soulard – $2 chorizo tacos, no brainer. [For a] nightcap, I’m a sucker for the Hurricane at Parlor, plus I love every single person who works there, so that’s a plus. Who In the local bar Scene InSpIreS you? So many names – anyone who’s doing weird, creative, fun stuff. Kate Kinsey from Planter’s House is always making her own really cool ingredients. Terry Oliver of Frazer’s [Restaurant & Lounge] – we always talk about different ingredients we love. He’s got a cocktail on his current menu served in a smoking lantern… I mean, that’s pretty amazing. Dave Greteman from Parlor always has something super tasty for me; his Hurricane with a rum-fire float has my heart.
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“Tim Wiggins has ruined my life with his Golden State cocktail at ReTReaT GaSTRopub. Nothing will ever be as good ever again. Here’s hoping it never gets taken off menu!” terry olIver
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