Great British & Irish Hotels - 2019 by Country & Town House Magazine

GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2019/20

250 PERFECT PLACES TO STAY

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

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T H E P E R F E C T D E S T I N AT I O N F O R T O W N & C O U N T R Y L I V I N G

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

Contents 80 Features 15

27 33

PACK MENTALITY Frightfully posh or non-conformist? Fiona Duncan on hotel tribes and where they make their beds NATURAL SELECTION Eco-conscious escapes are just what the doctor ordered, says Juliet Kinsman ART IMITATING LIFE Anastasia Bernhardt curates hotels with an exhibitionist streak SOAK AND SLEEP Scrub, pummel and sweat your way to a clearer state of mind. Daisy Finer selects the most sublime spa hotels BREAK FOR THE BORDER Crumbling castles, wild landscapes and a thriving culinary scene. Caroline Phillips sings Scotland’s praises

Directory 40 56

64 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Lime Wood; Lucknam Park; Penally Abbey; Mandarin Oriental

DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY

185

THE WEST COUNTRY Dorset / Somerset / Wiltshire

HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

THE HOME COUNTIES Berkshire / Buckinghamshire / Kent / Sussex

102 LONDON

THE COTSWOLDS Gloucestershire / Oxfordshire / Warwickshire / Wiltshire

136

ON THE COVER Joanne Froggatt wears dress by Ralph & Russo (ralphandrusso.com)

MID COUNTRY Derbyshire / Lincolnshire / Nottinghamshire Rutland / Warwickshire / West Midlands

146 EAST ANGLIA Cambridgeshire / Essex / Norfolk / Suffolk

160 THE NORTH

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Fashion Director: Nicole Smallwood. Photographer: Rachell Smith @ Blood and Co. Hair: Davide Barbieri @ Caren. Make-up: Nathalie Eleni using Temple Spa, Code8 Beauty and Quantum Botanika. Photographer's assistants: Karolina Burlikowska and Cameron Smith. Fashion assistant: Kerri Stolerman

County Durham / Cheshire / Cumbria / Lancashire / Northumberland / Yorkshire

LOCATION With thanks to Heckfield Place (heckfieldplace.com)

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WALES & THE MARCHES

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SCOTLAND

LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR The landscape photography in this guide is from the Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 12 (AA Publishing, £25). The annual competition showcases images of Britain’s most beautiful locations by some of today’s best landscape photographers. For more details, visit take-a-view.co.uk

200 REPUBLIC OF IRELAND 208 PRIVATE HOUSES 216

INDEX

PHOTOS: AMY MURRELL

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THE HEVENINGHAM COLLECTION THE HEVENINGHAM COLLECTION

COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE

EDITOR/WRITER Fiona Duncan EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Lucy Cleland MANAGING EDITOR Anastasia Bernhardt CHIEF COPY WRITER Leo Glass COPY WRITERS Clementina Jackson, Annabel Nugent,

Jenny Rowe, Ellie Smith, Kerri Stolerman FASHION DIRECTOR Nicole Smallwood SUB EDITOR Belinda Bamber EDITORIAL & PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Jenny Rowe ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, PROPERTY & MARKETING Gemma Cowley ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Eleanor Selby DIGITAL MANAGER Adam Dean SALES MANAGER Olivia Milligan SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER Ellie Rix CREATIVE DIRECTION & PRODUCTION Parm Bhamra JUNIOR PRODUCTION DESIGNER Samuel Thomas ONLINE EDITOR Rebecca Cox DIGITAL ASSISTANT Ellie Smith JUNIOR EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Kerri Stolerman TECHNICAL MANAGER Hannah Johnson TECHNICAL DIRECTOR Mark Pearson DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL STRATEGY Wil Harris ACCOUNTS CONTROLLER Aimi Nicastro SALES OPERATIONS & ACCOUNTS MANAGER Daisy Orr-Ewing FINANCE DIRECTOR Jill Newey GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Tia Graham MANAGING DIRECTOR Jeremy Isaac THE EDITOR editorial@countryandtownhouse.co.uk ADVERTISING advertising@countryandtownhouse.co.uk ACCOUNTS accounts@countryandtownhouse.co.uk SUBSCRIPTION subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2019/20 is an annual supplement distributed with Country & Town House magazine to AB homes in Barnes, Battersea, Bayswater, Belgravia, Brook Green, Chelsea, Chiswick, Clapham, Coombe, Fulham, Holland Park, Kensington, Knightsbridge, Marylebone, Mayfair, Notting Hill, Pimlico, South Kensington, Wandsworth and Wimbledon, as well as being available from leading country and London estate agents. It is also on sale at selected WHSmith, Waitrose and Sainsbury’s stores and independent newsagents nationwide. GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS will also have an exclusive international distribution through British Airways, American Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Singapore, and Emirates into First Class and Private Jet lounges throughout the US, Europe, Middle East and Far East. It has an estimated readership of 200,000. Country & Town House is available on subscription in the UK for £29.99 per annum. To subscribe online, iPad, iPhone and android all for only £24.99 visit: exacteditions.com/read/countrytownhouse. For subscription enquiries, please call 020 7384 9011 or email subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk. It is published by Country & Town House Ltd, Studio 2, Chelsea Gate Studios, 115 Harwood Road, London SW6 4QL (tel: 020 7384 9011). Registered number 576850 England and Wales. Printed in the UK by William Gibbons and Sons Ltd, West Midlands. Paper supplied by Gerald Judd. Distribution by Letterbox. Copyright © 2019 Country & Town House Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Materials are accepted on the understanding that no liability is incurred for safe custody. The publisher cannot be responsible for unsolicited material. All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. Whilst every care is taken to ensure all information is correct at the time of going to press, it is subject to change, and Country & Town House Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors.

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Editor’s Letter

he privilege I’ve had, since 2013, to curate our annual collection of Britain’s best hotels has been enormous and the insights I’ve gained into the ever-shifting hotel landscape have been invaluable. I hope you will agree that the guide stands as a beacon of reliability and expertise among the plethora of confusing advice that jostles for our attention. Its independence is crucial: hotels that appear in this guide take part by invitation only. This is Country & Town House’s seventh Great British & Irish Hotels guide, which is brought to you in association with Land Rover, whose trusty four-wheels have been the most reliable way to get around both country and town since 1948. Of course, there are plenty of newcomers – highly anticipated new addresses that burst on to the scene, attracting many column inches and loads of hashtags. But while Heckfield Place, surely our coolest new country-house hotel, provides the backdrop for this year’s stunning front cover, you’ll find plenty of addresses with far lower profiles in these pages too. Are you only interested in glitzy, talked-about hotels, or do you prefer to hunker down in a centuries-old inn where smugglers once laid their cutlasses on the tables? On page 15, I take a tongue-incheek look at hotel tribes, from Grown-up Groovers to Garden Gurus, each delightfully conjured by illustrator Rose Blake. Whether decades old or brand new, every hotel has to keep up with the times. For those that have top notch spas, there is an increasing move towards wellness. Food remains vitally important – locally sourced and seasonal, of course – and attention to sustainability is on the rise, while far-sighted hoteliers are adding value by creating ‘experiences’ and using their walls to display thought-provoking art. In these pages, you’ll find features by Anastasia Bernhardt on art hotels (p27), Juliet Kinsman on sustainable ones (p19) and Daisy Finer on spa hotels (p33). This year’s destination focus is by Caroline Phillips, who can’t keep away from Scotland (p36). Once again, the evocative images that represent the regions of the British Isles are the work of the talented winners of the Landscape Photography of the Year Awards. We also include a selection of gorgeous private houses to rent and each region opens with ideas for things CLOCKWISE: Dave Watts, Felixstowe Sea Defences, Suffolk. Taken to do and see while you are ensconced in from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 12 (AA Publishing, £25); Beaverbrook, Surrey; THE PIG at Bridge the hotel that you have chosen – we hope Place, Canterbury; Claridge’s, London – from the pages of this guide. n

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CONTRIBUTORS

JULIET KINSMAN

Fawlty Towers moment? When I stayed in the Versace villa in Miami and the suite’s personal butler charged in with coffee at 6am after I’d only got to bed at 3am. He had the wrong room. Best night’s sleep? Anywhere that is pitch-black, peaceful, and has a goose down mattress topper, pure cotton sheets and fresh air. Most memorable meal? The Sunday jazz brunch at Capella Ubud’s Mads Lange tented restaurant. It’s like edible storytelling. Most extravagant thing you have ordered to your room? Unintentionally: a $25 cappuccino on room service at the Four Seasons Downtown in NYC.

DAISY FINER

Fawlty Towers moment? Breaking the bed at Soho Farmhouse... I’m not saying any more. Best night’s sleep? I actually rarely sleep well when I am away from home, which is a pain as I am away a lot, but I do always love the beds at the Firmdale hotels. They are like Princess and the Pea beds – you’re looking around wondering where the steps are. Most memorable meal? Thyme at Southrop has the most delicious food – organic, fresh, seasonal and lots of it is grown in the garden. Even the drinks are imaginative and delicious – fizzy rhubarb gin type concoctions. Most extravagant thing you have ordered to your room? Ice cream at 2am.

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CONTRIBUTORS

CAROLINE PHILLIPS

Fawlty Towers moment? Ordering tea for two at ten in Mumbai… nothing arrived. Then, lo and behold, a waiter, burdened with ten cups and huge silver teapots woke us from deep, jetlagged sleep with… ten cups of tea at 2am. Best night’s sleep? Atop a red flame tree in a treehouse in Kerala. Most memorable meal? A vertical tasting of Château Latour with a six-course dinner at a top London hotel. Seven guests were served poached lobster tails and the one who didn’t eat shellfish… a tiny poached carrot. Most extravagant thing you have ordered to your room? A cheeseburger at The Mark in Manhattan. I muddled the exchange rate and gave the waiter a $150 tip.

savoirbeds.com

London

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New York

Paris

Shanghai

Hong Kong

Singapore

Fawlty Towers moment? I remember going on a school trip to France, and we opened a door in our room that led us into a total stranger’s room. Best night’s sleep? I stayed for one night in the Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong and it was incredible, the comfiest bed I’ve ever slept in. Most memorable meal? Probably my friend Luke having the most obscenely huge buffet fry up at a Holiday Inn in Exeter. Most extravagant thing you have ordered to your room? I don’t think I’ve ever ordered in anything very extravagant – I’m more the kind of person who would smuggle in a nice bottle of wine that I’d bought round the corner.

PHOTOS: © STEVEN RENNIE PHOTOGRAPHY

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

Pack Mentality Which hotel tribe do you belong to? asks Fiona Duncan I L L U S T R AT E D B Y R O S E B L A K E

Where on earth can they go to get away from the hoi polloi? Answer: nowhere, although there’s still a handful of hotels, even in these egalitarian times, where their retainers are unlikely to be found at the next table, ordering a better bottle of wine than theirs. In London, the Totterings and FinkNottles take refuge in The Sloane Club (page 122) and The Goring (page 114), but a suitable country escape is harder to find, since retainers have invaded them all. Aristos are wary of hotels with spas – one’s staff always want a spa. Also, the hotel’s owner should preferably be someone they have met socially. Hambleton Hall (page 141) ticks every box, including for gourmets, as does Gravetye Manor (page 94), both without spas, both with Michelin stars. As for the seaside, both The Nare (page 51), which offers a door-to-door chauffeur service for its less mobile guests, and Hotel Tresanton (page 50), where you may find the complete works of PG Wodehouse in your room (nice for the Fink-Nottles), are blissful oases.

Yes, there are people – call them loners, call them adrift, or call them free – who have never felt part of any particular social tribe. These are the oddballs who simply want a good hotel, in a beautiful place, with satisfying food, caring owners and a warm atmosphere. They hope for a good walk in the countryside while they’re there, and maybe a historic house to visit or a farm shop to rootle around. They prefer to keep their finds to themselves and they do have their favourites. Come to think of it, that makes them a tribe too: one that heads for wonderful inns such as The Beckford Arms (page 60) and The Talbot Inn (page 70), both in the same stable; or the Felin Fach Griffi n (page 183), the Gurnard’s Head (page 49) and the Old Coastguard (page 52) in another quirky, hands-on group; plus Penally Abbey (page 185), Howard’s House (page 63), the Rectory at Crudwell (page 67), Killiecrankie (page 195) and Trigony House (page 199).

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

There was a time when children were seen and not heard, minded their ps and qs and kept their elbows off the table lest the Queen came to tea. In those days, staying in a hotel meant sitting silently through three courses with a napkin tucked into your collar, but nowadays parents consider that Noah and Arizona should be allowed to behave exactly as they please, and they do, in hotels that must perform the impossible by being both spoiling boltholes full of beautiful people while at the same time being children’s playgrounds on steroids. Chewton Glen (page 77) is an object lesson in appealing to both couples and families, while St Moritz (page 55) is made for juniors with its indoor and outdoor pools and Mini Moritz Kids’ Club and The Nare (page 51), also in Cornwall, has long attracted multi-generational families, from toddlers to great-grannies. Other addresses that appeal equally to sophisticates and their kids include Cowley Manor (page 130), Coworth Park (page 93), Heckfield Place (page 79) and Beaverbrook (page 91).

They were terribly trendy once, honestly… but nowadays, closer to 50 than 30 and worried about the bald spot and the crow’s feet, they secretly crave comfort, a good bottle of claret, blackout blinds and a snuggly king-sized bed. The answer, then, is to head for hotels that may look achingly hip but are in fact as traditional in their offering as roast and two veg on a Sunday. Indeed, these hotels do offer roast and two veg on a Sunday, thank heaven, along with the must-have sea bass nigiri sprinkled with crispy ants. It’s a win-win situation. Lime Wood (page 80), Heckfield Place (page 79) and Beaverbrook (page 91) all fit the bill perfectly.

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He was a career man, eyes on the top, when he was seized with the need to have his own vegetable patch, like his neighbour’s, only smarter and with bigger vegetables. She woke up one day and found that she was obsessed with growing dahlias, making perfect compost and eradicating the ground elder from the herbaceous border. A good time these days consists of visiting gardens with similarly afflicted friends and being the first to shout out the Latin name of each plant they approach: so satisfying when right; so humiliating when wrong. When it comes to hotels, they have to have decent grounds. At Askham Hall (page 164) the quintessentially English gardens are a joy, with colour-soaked borders, kitchen gardens and fields of free range chickens, goats and rare breed pigs. Husbands of lady gardeners should prove their love by booking a room at Cliveden (page 92) overlooking the jaw-dropping, six-acre Parterre. The grounds at Hotel Endsleigh (page 50), a fantasy of dells and grottos, cascades and crags, were laid out in the 18th century by the great Humphry Repton. They devour the hype, then head straight for the latest talked-about address. Once there, they go A-lister-spotting (followed by B- and C-listers), and take loads of selfies, which they post, podcast, tweet and blog. The return to normal life afterwards leaves them feeling a little empty and unsatisfied, plus their bank accounts are drained. But hey, that great Instagram pic of the infinity pool, with their painted toes in the foreground, got zillions of ‘likes’, so it’s all worth it. Hot hotels that are unlikely to disappoint include the new Fife Arms (page 194) with its Picasso in the drawing room and James Prosek’s Flying Stag in the bar; the Gunton Arms (page 153) is filled with edgy, sexy modern art; the Grove of Narberth (page 184) has cool new Martin Hulbert interiors; and brand new Grantley Hall (page 169) – because it’s just that: brand new. Ditto for the latest PIG; all the PIGs are perfect Insta fodder, but THE PIG at Bridge Place (page 98) is the one where everyone wants to be seen this year. n 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 17

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Spoils from the vegetable plot at Thyme; the garden is a beautiful place to soak up nature; the 150acre kitchen garden; rare breed sheep dot the landscape; Heckfield Place is home to a drove of saddleback pigs; it has biodynamic vegetables on the menu, grown on site

Natural Selection Juliet Kinsman puts on her green-tinted spectacles to seek out the most inviting nature-celebrating escapes

PHOTOS: © RICHARD STAPLETON

umans are funny creatures – as we advance, we imagine ourselves getting more sophisticated… yet civilisation means distancing ourselves ever further from nature. It is predicted that by 2050 almost 70 per cent of us will live in urban environments – strange, since our species has an innate need to be in nature. It’s scientifically proven. As a journalist who specialises in sustainable luxury hotels, it fascinates me that spending time in places tuned into nature is so good for us – it’s uplifting and health-enhancing not just for guests, but also in terms of hotels with a conscience having a positive impact environmentally and socially. Dr Mathew White, an environmental psychologist, led a study at the University of Exeter Medical School, which found people who spent at least 120 minutes out and about in natural settings every week have better mental and physical health than those who spend less time in nature. Urban parks are associated with benefits but Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty and Sites of Special Scientific Interest are more powerful thanks to their views and biodiversity. It doesn’t matter how you get your two hours a week – whether it’s one big dose or lots of smaller hits, nature is nourishing. So here’s where we prescribe you some precious time away.

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THYME, The Cotswolds

Hugged by green, green countryside, this restored 17th-century farm is a charming village within a Gloucestershire village. I first visited Southrop in 2015 for Thyme’s cookery school and to stay in its first delightful country house hotel rooms – since then, they’ve added cute garden cottages, Ox Barn restaurant, an outdoor swimming pool and the rusticyet-refined Meadow Spa. You enter it through a greenhouse and it’s a breath of fresh Aurelia Probiotic Skincare air. Caryn Hibbert’s destination estate is a very personal family project. ‘Our guiding principle is our love of the land, and that’s the inspiration for everything we do,’ she says. ‘In the buildings, the spaces are designed so that the inside and outside really communicate – bay windows and glass doors let sunlight pour in. We bring the outside in through our restaurant menus, our cocktails, our cookery school and our spa, so that you can feel the reconnection with the land in every aspect. Half of the farmland is productive; it gives us our eggs and lamb and we grow many of our vegetables, fruit, flowers and herbs. The water meadows and banks of the River Leach are perfect for nature walks and our conservation project helps wildlife to flourish.’ thyme.co.uk

HECKFIELD PLACE, Hampshire

Spend time in this elegantly reincarnated, 1790-built Georgian pile and you can taste the sustainability of the estate at every turn. Award-winning chef Skye Gyngell of Spring restaurant and previously Petersham Nurseries is well known for her wild-loving

ways; under her direction, almost everything you eat here is grown on the compostsprinkled biodynamic farm amid its 400-plus acres. Skye’s ambition is to unearth the purest way to capture the flavours of produce grown in good, clean soil: ‘It’s really important that the work we do has a positive impact on the environment. We need to step away from the highly-industrialised food system created over the last few decades and return to a more authentic and connected relationship with the land. Food grown in healthy soil is full of energy and flavour and a joy to work with. It’s addictive!’ Aside from literally eating the view, there are walled gardens galore to explore, an arboretum, riversides and lakes to wander around, plus Kitten Grayson’s floristry skills, which bring the outdoors in using home-grown blooms. Even the cocktails celebrate Heckfield’s ingredients, and the bath and spa products have its 19th-century horticulturalist William Wildsmith as their muse. heckfieldplace.com

THE PIG HOTELS Kent, Hampshire, Devon, Somerset

After working his magic with Chewton Glen and founding the Hotel du Vin group, Robin Hutson created Lime Wood in the New Forest, and then the first PIG hotel nearby in Brockenhurst. These award-winning country house retreats were the first modern-minded boutique hotels to add foraging to our forays, taking local, seasonal produce to the next level. The Sustainable Restaurant Association (SRA) hails their menus a triumph, with 80 per cent of ingredients sourced within 25 miles, paring down the food miles often clocked up in hospitality to bring us food and drink. thepighotel.com

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

NATURAL RESOURCES

STRATTONS, Norfolk

Hidden off the high street of the market town of Swaffham in Norfolk, this once husbandand-wife-run, now daughterand-son-in-law-run, boutique hotel and restaurant has always been eco-friendly, long before sustainability was the buzzword du jour. Your hosts have used hyperlocal suppliers and staff from the outset and everything is made from scratch in-house. Eggs are from their own hens, who wander the wildlife-friendly orchards – which in turn provide seasonal fruits to both café and restaurant. They think constantly about how the business can have a positive impact and reduce energy use and waste through their commitment to the East Anglian Waste Minimisation Project. Not the sexiest subject, perhaps, but one with a strong feel-good factor. strattonshotel.com

THE SCARLET, Cornwall

For a long time this adults-only spa hotel was Britain’s one true eco-luxe escape when it comes to boutique hideaways that are as green as they’re cosseting. Created by a family that holds true to its motto of ‘Cherish our world’, it’s perched on the cliffs above Mawgan Porth in the South West, next door to sister venue, Bedruthan Hotel. Their aim has always been to make the business a force for good in terms of not damaging the environment and being an asset for the local community. Yes, it’s behind-the-scenes stuff like biomass boilers that make a difference, but as a guest what’s uplifting is finding you can still have fun in something as serious-sounding as a stone-lined, chlorine-free, reed-filtered, outdoor pool or wood barrel hot tub. scarlethotel.co.uk n

It’s official: the hotelier whose sense of hospitality includes sensitivity to their hotel’s natural setting is the one with the happiest guests. NOW’s Force for Good Alliance has done its homework — go to itmustbenow.com and learn how you too can take responsibility for making your travels more sustainable. And for further reading on why we should let nature do her thing without our man-made meddling, read Robert Macfarlane’s latest book Underland, George Monbiot’s Feral: Rewilding the Land, Sea, and Human Life and Isabella Tree’s Wilding: The Return of Nature to a British Farm. And for more inspo on the stylish stays paying it forward around the world, follow @Boutecohotels on Instagram.

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OBEY YOUR SPIRIT

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Sizzling summers at Rocca delle Tre Contrade, Sicily

Slick interiors at Il Tabacchificio

Madreterraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dreamy dinner setting

The elegant Don Venerando in Sicily

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Hiding in the most scenic nooks of the Med’s rugged Riviera are the hyper exclusive villas of your holiday dreams – striking architecture, sprawling vistas, sparkling pools and swathes of space – and one vital detail in common: The Thinking Traveller

Views for days at Cape Lougi, Lefkada

he luxury villa rental company with an enviable portfolio of the finest properties in Sicily, Puglia, the Ionian islands, the Sporades and Corsica, The Thinking Traveller only deals in hand-selected villas that are completely exclusive to them. That means privileged access to the most exceptional properties in the Med – top of their class in quality, location, design and amenities, plus that sprinkle of unique magic that sets them apart from the rest. They are picky so you don’t have to be, only accepting one per cent of the villas that approach them. This careful curation means that they can form long and strong partnerships with the owners. And with exceptional 24/7 local support and concierge service, it’s like staying in your own private five-star hotel but better, because the whole experience is tailored to your personal needs and wildest desires. The level of service is completely up to you, whether you want the full shebang (daily maid service and a cook) or to be left in utter privacy. Time is precious – holidays are for relaxing, not for admin, so it’s a no-brainer to leave the details in a safe and experienced pair of hands. Part problem solvers, part walking guide books, their experts’ on-theground knowledge means you can live like a proper local, accessing parts of the region that other tourists will never lay eye on; and that’s precisely why the Thinking Traveller is the discerning traveller’s choice when seeking a home from home experience. Offering a series of unique and transformational expeditions, Think Experiences will raise the bar of your villa holiday, from perfectly practical ideas like sending a case of wine from the area’s best vineyards to your door to unforgettable trips: private skippered boat charters, helicopter flights or touring archaeological sites with PHD-qualified experts – the sky is quite literally the limit. So whether you’re after a dreamy beachfront summer house, a ravishingly refurbished masseria or charmingly chic trulli, the Thinking Traveller should be your first port of call for a Mediterranean holiday that will exceed your expectations every time. BOOK IT: For a limited period, you can secure your villa(s) for 2020 (or even 2021) with just an initial deposit of 10 per cent. This will then be followed by a further 20 per cent deposit payable by 1 December 2019. Not valid for online bookings. Conditions apply. Start planning your next villa holiday today. Visit thethinkingtraveller.com or call their Villa Specialists on +44 (0)20 7377 8518.

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

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Child Portrait (Annie) by Lucian Freud is just one of many outstanding works on display at Fife Arms

Art Imitating Life Artists and hotels make extraordinary bedfellows, says Anastasia Bernhardt

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FROM ABOVE: Ancient Quartz ceiling by Zhang Enli in the drawing room; the Prince Albert Suite; even bathrooms have artworks; all at the Fife Arms

Manuela Restaurant. The Fife Arms mixes contemporary art with pieces by local artists, Picassos with site-specific installations and batty objects such as a woolly rhino’s scapula. ‘Eccentric, Scottish and Victorian,’ is how Russell Sage, the interior designer for the project, describes it. His intention was to create a place where people could feel as though they lived there because, ‘Everybody wants to inherit a Scottish castle’. You can’t move for artwork – they’ve brought together more than 16,000 pieces, including rare antiques and ultra-high-value works by artists like Lucian Freud. Not to mention spectacular site-specific artworks, such as Chinese artist Zhang Enli’s Ancient Quartz, which takes its form from crosssections of Scottish agates and spreads like a chromatic oil spill across the ceiling of

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reative types have always been drawn to hotels. After all, clearing up after yourself is hardly conducive to artistic ingenuity: Robert Mapplethorpe lived in room 1017 at the Chelsea Hotel with Patti Smith for just $55 a week; The Savoy was Claude Monet’s London haunt, painting pieces like Waterloo Bridge (1903) from his sixth-floor suite; while Edward Hopper routinely returned to the hotel as subject matter. Likewise, art has always played a prominent part in hotel interior design, but these days it’s no longer enough simply to hang a few choice pieces. Art in hotels has gone far beyond the superfluous. Now it’s all about bringing these pieces to life and supporting local talent through art residencies, rotating exhibitions, site-specific installations and immersive experiences. And the hotel cultural landscape is much the richer for it. The just-opened Fife Arms in the Highlands is a paragon of the next-gen art hotel. Realised by Iwan and Manuela Wirth, the powerhouse Swiss art-dealing couple behind Hauser & Wirth, which represent artists like Martin Creed and Paul McCarthy. Of course, the hotel’s art offering was going to be anything but ordinary. This is their fifth hospitality project – in the West country they own the Roth Bar & Grill with Durslade Farmhouse in Bruton (on the site of Hauser & Wirth’s smart Somerset gallery), The Bull Inn at Hardway and, in Los Angeles,

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

the drawing room. Or Argentinian artist Guillermo Kuitca, whose mural in the Clunie Dining Room envelops diners in an illusionary world that mines many aesthetics, as well as the surrounding Cairngorms landscape. Subodh Gupta’s installation in the Fire Room illustrates how integral the art is to the building’s design. The Indian artist assembled everyday objects from his home country into a bright and bonkers chandelier for the private dining space. ‘The entire room is done in burnt wood,’ explains Russell, ‘and it has no windows, so it’s incredibly dramatic.’ Having dealt in antiques since the age of ten, Russell was the ideal designer for the project. Uniquely, he assigned two fulltime researchers to catalogue every object as though it were a museum. The first piece they bought was a Madame Tussauds waxwork of Queen Victoria, which sits quietly in the library. Why? you might ask. ‘The room is really far away from the front door,’ he says, ‘I wanted people to walk the length of the building, so I had to put a crazy object there.’ Judging by Instagram, it’s had the desired effect. Ask Russell to name his favourite piece in the collection, and it’s not the Freuds or the Picassos, but a tiny watercolour by the front door. It’s a painting by Queen Victoria of a stag that had been shot by her Highlands servant, John Brown. ‘It’s the quietness of it that I love, it speaks so much of the area,’ says Russell. If all that wasn’t enough to get the creative juices flowing, even the construction process sounds inspiring. When they were decorating the Artist’s Residence room, which takes its aesthetic from the Bloomsbury Set, ‘Richard Jackson [who was installing a chandelier at the time] came in and just started painting,’ remembers Russell, ‘while Neil Wenman

[head of Hauser & Wirth in London] was dribbling paint on the floor.’ And that, in a nutshell, is what’s special about the place. If you visit the Fife Arms, you’re likely to pass through Aberdeen airport. It’s worth a pit stop at The Chester hotel in Aberdeen’s fashionable west end, decked out with works by Scottish artist John Byrne, who has painted everyone from Robbie Coltrane to his ex, Tilda Swinton. At this year’s Nuart (Aberdeen’s annual street art festival) he delivered a keynote talk at the hotel. Graham Wood, co-owner of The Chester Hotel in Aberdeen, says, ‘It was important to us to have Scottish art throughout the hotel building, and what started off with a few of John Byrne’s works has now expanded into what we believe may be the largest collection of his art under one roof. John is a good friend to the hotel and has been generous in his support of our charity work, with donations of his paintings.’ It’s not just a Scottish phenomenon; at 10 Castle Street, down in Dorset, Alex and Gretchen Boon have transformed a grand Grade II*-listed house into a private member’s club-cum-hotel that showcases a roster of art by working with local artists and galleries such as Messum’s, Cob Gallery and Helium London. All pieces are available to buy and it’s a model that clearly works – one guest went home with Sylph, a life-sized sculpture by Simon FROM ABOVE: John Byrne’s work has taken over The Chester Hotel in Aberdeen; Princess Julia looms over the staircase at 10 Castle Street, whose Queen Anne building is pictured below

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WALLS THAT TALK FROM FURTHER AFIELD

Le Sirenuse, Positano In 2015 the hotel launched Sirenuse Art Projects with British curator Silka Rittson-Thomas, commissioning an annual site-specific work from artists including Martin Creed. sirenuse.it

Villa Lena, Tuscany FROM ABOVE: Over 430 pieces of art adorn the walls of Belmond Cadogan Hotel; at London’s 45 Park Lane the walls are an ever-evolving exhibition space

Molitor, Paris During a period of closure, this hotel became a graffiti hotspot. Now reopened, each of the pool’s 78 changing room cubicles has been taken over by a contemporary urban artist. Hyper cool. mltr.fr

evolving exhibition space. Previous artists to exhibit include Nicholas Kontaxis, a young Californian artist who has enjoyed commissions from Roger Federer and Coachella; Mary Stephenson, a Londoner who makes larger-than-life paintings and entire room installations; and Alexander James, whose abstract creations took over the lobby and BAR 45. If you want to take it a step further you could book into a hotel room that is in itself a work of art – Antony Gormley’s ROOM sculpture at The Beaumont. Who needs to go to a traditional gallery these days, when you can have a sleepover instead? Britain’s hotels are the art space of the 21st century. n

Anam, Vietnam Every week, four Vietnamese artists are invited to practise their craft in the hotel’s restaurant, which transforms into an open-air artists’ studio. theanam.com

The Norman, Tel Aviv Like what you see on the wall of your room? The hotel’s art concierge can arrange for you to buy it. Championing Israeli artists with an international reputation. thenorman.com

PHOTOS: © LUDWIG FAVRE; © SIVAN ASKAYO; © FREDERIK VERCRUYSSE

Gudgeon that was on display in the garden. ‘It’s such a lovely Queen Anne building,’ says Gretchen, ‘so people expect the art to be quite traditional, but we put in very contemporary pieces like Princess Julia [Ben Ashton’s stern, ostentatiously-dressed figure looming over the landing]. There’s something for everyone, whether you’re in your 20s or in your 70s.’ Gretchen hints that a famous personality with a similar aesthetic to Princess Julia is interested in buying the piece. Answers on a postcard. They also host artists’ talks over cosy familystyle dinners and summer masterclasses for one-to-one tutorials by renowned artists such as Dairo Vargas, who exhibited for Prince William and the Duchess of Cambridge. Another country-house hotel with strong links to the artistic community is Cowley Manor in the Cotswolds, which has long supported up-and-coming talent, furnishing the hotel from degree shows and commissions from the Royal College of Art. In London, over 430 pieces of art have been selected for the Belmond Cadogan Hotel. Calling on the talents of 34 artists, the collection is largely botanical, anchoring the hotel in Chelsea’s rich floral history. Every single headboard has been individually designed by one of five female British artists, while British painter Simon Casson (whose work is in the Prince of Wales’ private collection) has created a piece for the lobby, depicting the history of the hotel. At 45 Park Lane, walls are an ever-

Artists of all disciplines, including painting, music, fashion, film-making and writing, come together in residencies offered by this agriturismo’s not-forprofit art foundation. villa-lena.it

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS Lodore Falls Hotel & Spa

Soak and Sleep Lie back and think of England at one of these exceptionally chic spa hotels, says Daisy Finer

orgeous country house hotels, clifftop hideaways or city escapes – England’s burgeoning spa scene is ripe for the picking. What was once a basement add-on is now a major part of the hotel experience. In the process, we’ve become more savvy about not just the quality of the treatments but also the integrity of the ingredients and tangible results of the therapies – a feather stroke will no longer do. Plus we want to feel pampered and nurtured. The age of sufferance is over. Now it’s about getting back to nature, garnering solid advice, stepping out of our usual routines, and remembering how to slow down, relax, just be. For retreats in the wilderness, Fiona Arrigo’s new Back to Nurture Somerset tent escapes are the ultimate recharger – beat the drum, light the fire, swim in the river. Both The Bridge and The Pause residential courses offer proper mental excavation and the opportunity for inner change, while Grayshott Spa stands firm as our strongest offering when it comes to gut cleansing. But what if all this sounds a little too strong for your needs? What if what you’re really after is a classic hotel break, even a touch of romance, and a sensationally good spa thrown into the mix? Here we give our top recommendations for just that. You deserve it.

Mandarin Oriental, London

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CALCOT & SPA, Cotswolds

THE SPREAD EAGLE, West Sussex

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, London

BEAVERBROOK, Surrey

A dark, cocooning space below street level, where music wafts, water tinkles, lights are dimmed and hushed voices lead you tiptoeing to luscious treatment rooms – for perhaps a spot of reiki or two hours of Oriental Qi. Such is the experience at Mandarin Oriental’s completely revamped spa, by New York designer Adam D Tihany. It’s a jewel in Knightsbridge’s crown and offers a vast range of therapies (Traditional Chinese Medicine features strongly, in a nod to its name), as well as a small pool, sauna and Rasul water temple. BOOK IT: Doubles from £630. mandarinoriental.com

If you haven’t heard of forest bathing, do keep up. It’s nothing to do with naked outdoor baths, nor is it just walking the dog in the woods. It is letting the power of trees work their quiet magic to calm your cortisol-filled soul. And now The Spread Eagle is offering this arboreal experience on certain weekends. Otherwise, the exposed beams, the cosy fireplaces, the four posters, the six heavenly rooms for Temple Spa treatments will nourish your soul soon enough. BOOK IT: Doubles from £119. thespreadeaglelondon.co.uk

PHOTOS: ©JACK HARDY; © RICHARD STAPLETON

What bliss – to sit in an open-air Jacuzzi in a courtyard garden by an open fire. The Ofsted-registered crèche takes care of the kids while you kick back in this English country house, where old-fashioned charm meets a decidedly modern flourish. Spoiling but effective treatments feature Elemis Biotec facials, Aromatherapy Associates body oils, plus CACI’s popular non-surgical face lift. BOOK IT: Doubles from £200. calcotspa.co.uk

Nature and nurture run through this temple of wellbeing, richly lit with vibrant stained glass by artist Brian Clarke – designs that reflect the 400 acres of Beaverbrook’s glorious Surrey countryside setting. Luckily, all that goodness can be offset with a glass of fizz in the buzzy bar afterwards, which by evening is filled with guests and locals. Follow it with the best Japanese food outside the M25 and sleep like a newborn in a cossetting, Susie Atkinson-designed bedroom. BOOK IT: Doubles from £330. beaverbrook.co.uk

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THE LANGHAM, London

GRANTLEY HALL, Yorkshire

One of London’s oldest hotels has a gem of an oriental spa, Chuan Body & Soul, which offers Traditional Chinese Medicine and an extensive and exciting treatment menu. You’ll find everything from therapeutic head massages and shiatsu to scrubs, wraps, hand and feet treats, two and a half hour body rituals, and highly advanced facials, including the new Jacqueline Piotaz therapies. The restaurants, rooms and impeccable service continue to hit the top notes of a classic. BOOK IT: Doubles from £475. langhamhotels.com

A new star up North, Grantley has undergone a radical renovation and produced the new Three Graces Spa with an 18m indoor pool, sauna, steam and snow rooms, plus a relaxation area with deliciously healthy snacks and drinks. Treatments are either by Natura Bissé or organic British brand, ila, both of which are renowned for the integrity of their ingredients and the deep healing delivered by their therapies. This is a grande dame, modern and impressive, with all the bells and whistles. BOOK IT: Doubles from £345. grantleyhall.co.uk

LIME WOOD, Hampshire

LODORE FALLS HOTEL & SPA, Keswick, Cumbria

It’s easy to assume after so much initial hype and positive press coverage that Lime Wood’s Herb House spa would simply sit back and rest on it’s well-manicured laurels. Not so. Not only has Matt Roberts teamed up to throw his weight around the gym, bringing some brilliant new gear and a team of stellar trainers with him (make sure you get Justin to beast you), but Amelia Freer has also been consulting in the kitchens. So if you go down to the woods today, you’re sure to work hard, eat well and come home glowing. BOOK IT: Doubles from £395. limewoodhotel.co.uk

The Lake District’s new yet tastefully in keeping spa sensation has one of the UK’s largest infinity pools, with views over the lake. A £10m investment has resulted in 12 different saunas, showers and steam rooms, plus Elemis and La Sultane de Saba at hand to push your body over the brink into utter relaxation. Trains departing from St Pancras get to Penrith in three hours and will keep stressful map-reading at bay. BOOK IT: Suites from £460. lakedistricthotels.net 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 35

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Break for the Border Sometimes the best adventures are closest to home. No matter how many times Caroline Phillips visits, Scotland is the gift that keeps on giving

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can’t keep away from Scotland. Yes, yes, I know it rains a lot. And if you go to the wrong place in summer there may be battalions of midges. And, OK, it’s true that far outside the cities a few still think that a vegetarian is someone who’s happy to eat oatmeal picked from the sheep’s liver and lungs of a haggis. But ah dinnae ken of many places I love more than Scotland. There are wild beaches beside bonnie, rugged shores for bracing swims, thousands of miles of dramatic coastline – breathe deep the spectacular scenery of its jagged west coast – and forested braes for blustery walks. The right to roam offers relatively free access. Scotland boasts majestic highland glens for picnicking and tranquil lochs for trout fishing. Plus brooding castles and fortified tower houses for walking into the 13th-century world of Scottish lairds, chieftains and ghosts. Who can ignore the inspiration for Sir Walter Scott? I don’t mind the weather – yes, honestly – with its four proper seasons, from snowcapped mountains through to summer’s purple heather. And I love the Scots with

their irrepressible spirit, humour and hardiness; after all, this is a people that has emerged from centuries of conflict between Picts, Scots, Angles and Norsemen and invasions by the Romans and William the Conqueror. As for the sights and activities, there are the undulating farmlands of Angus, Ayrshire and Aberdeenshire. Those green and lush Borders vistas. And the wildernesses of the Cairngorms, Rannoch Moor and the Trossachs, with red deer, peregrine falcons and golden eagles. Highland paradises for hillwalking, rock climbing and white-water kayaking. Who can ignore the lure of Loch Lomond or Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest peak? Or the Hogwart’s Highland Express Tour across multi-arched Glenfinnan Viaduct? There are more distilleries than you can shake an ancient malt at (Speyside is world class) and bars and spirits aplenty. There’s a flourishing foodie scene with innovative chefs working their magic with locally sourced ingredients: best-in-the-world shellfish, flavoursome Angus beef, premier game and artisan cheeses. Add to this mix Glasgow and Edinburgh,

boasting between them a mighty medieval castle, gracious Georgian and grand Victorian architecture, with an industrial heritage, edgy art scene and nightlife. And let’s not forget Kengo Kuma’s V&A Dundee, with its stunning curved concrete walls. I’ve driven up to Scotland more often than I’ve had Hogmanay dinners, taken overnight sleepers and flown there too. Once I cross the border, a calm and sense of the awe of its delightful otherness permeates my soul. Even the names of hotels have an alluring peat-fire-meets-Highlandfling of a ring to them – just try saying Perle Oban, Kinloch Lodge or Killiecrankie Hotel – even more beguiling if said by someone wearing a kilt, as in, ‘Och, the hotel, it’s just aboot a mile up the wee road there…’. I’ve slept on a (Georgian) floor for the Edinburgh Festival (it was too late to book a room), bobbed around the Hebrides slumbering in regal comfort in the Queen’s favourite boat – a converted ferry – and napped in a luxurious train-turned-hotelon-wheels. I’ve stayed in castles aplenty, including a five-star fortification on the so-called Highland Riviera. But the majority

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Luskentyre beach looks more like the Caribbean than the Outer Hebrides; even the name Kinloch Lodge summons the idea of peat fires; the ultra-modern V&A Dundee has put the city on the cultural map; red deer are Scotland’s largest surviving native wild land mammal; Killiecrankie Hotel has spectacular views of the Cairngorms; all aboard the Hogwarts Express – or at least the Glenfinnan Viaduct

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48 HOURS IN EDINBURGH SKIP THE TOURIST HOTSPOTS AND LIVE LIKE A LOCAL

Portobello beach

SEE Catch the Chilly Dippers, university students who de-stress by plunging into the water at Portobello beach; visit Stockbridge market for sourdough and handmade soap; explore Water of Leith’s 12-mile riverside walk through the city’s heart; chill in Marchmont’s hip cafés and yoga studios.

FROM ABOVE: Knockinaam Lodge has an outstanding restaurant; Castle Stalker off the west coast; Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest peak

Fingal

STAY

where else will you find a Lucian Freud and Picasso alongside a self-playing grand piano and drop-dead gorgeous walks and lonely landscapes on the moors? Please don’t write to me in the unlikely event you come back not loving Scotland, because I’ll think you’re fibbing. After all, I’ve seen seals, whales, dolphins, puffins, red deer and wildcats on my visits there. I’ve tapped my feet to a Scottish jig at a ceilidh and discovered my four feet while Scottish reeling. Tried golf on world-class links (did you know the Scots invented the game?) and foraged for wild mushrooms with a ghillie and his dog. I’ve snooped through the rooms of private baronial mansions and ogled at Charles Rennie Mackintosh- and Adamdesigned buildings. I’ve gazed in wonder at ancient standing stones and monoliths, the wind clapping my face and the sound of waves crashing on the shore. And I’ve spent happy afternoons reading secondhand tomes and eating scones in Wigtown, with its 20 bookshops and literary cafés. I’ll be back. Och aye. And lang may yer lum reek (may you live long and stay well)… so that you too can visit ‘bonnie Scootland’. Again and again.

The Lookout by Gardener’s Cottage

EAT Head straight to Fhior, with its excellent modern Scottish menu and Nordic inspiration. Don’t miss the new Lookout by Gardener’s Cottage (it’s partially suspended over Calton Hill) for unbeatable views and even better food. No visit is complete without a flippin’ fresh fish at Fishers.

W E Scott & Son

SHOP For sporrans and Highland belts, it’s W E Scott & Son; Dick’s offers men’s linen suits and hankies; Araminta Campbell sells weavings inspired by the Scottish landscape and alpaca pieces; visit Georgian Antiques’ warehouse for interiors. n

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of accommodation is in Georgian and Victorian country house hotels, the kind with squishy sofas, roaring open fires and books beckoning to be read. What about you, then? You may wish to start in Edinburgh, in which case you can stay in Fingal, a converted former lighthouse boat docked in industrial Leith. If you’re off to the north-west Highlands, The Torridon is the hotel to pick: set in 58 acres of parkland at the end of a sea loch, with views that make you rub your eyes and a silence that makes mindfulness meditation feel noisy. Whether you’re after mountain biking, stargazing or whisky tasting, this is the place to be. You don’t have to meet as furtively at Knockinaam Lodge as Churchill and Eisenhower did to plan the D-Day landings. You will, in fact, want to tell everyone you’ve been to this 19th-century country house hotel, fashioned from a historic hunting lodge, in a private cove with gobsmackingly gorgeous views over the Irish Sea. For those who’d like to follow in the footsteps of Queen Victoria and Queen Elizabeth II (to their fave holiday spot), you won’t want to miss the newly-opened Fife Arms in Braemar, Aberdeenshire –

You can’t sleep over on Britannia, so slumber the other side of Leith Docks aboard Fingal, a luxurious converted lighthouse boat. A stay at The Scotsman will bring out your inner journalist; a night at The Balmoral will feed your passion for Harry Potter (JK finished the seventh book here).

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The South of France in a glass www.domainedesjeanne.com @domainedesjeanne | +44 (0)7789 377874 | denise@domainedesjeanne.com

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Devon, Cornwall & the Isles of Scilly A sunny day on the South West coast beats the French Riviera hands down, but come winter, when the crowds dissipate and blustery coastal walks can be enjoyed in peace, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s twice as magical

Will Milner, The Daymark. Brixham, Devon Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 12 (AA Publishing, ÂŁ25)

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Just-opened Fitzroy

Coast is Clear

Secret swimming spot: Talland Bay, Cornwall

Devon and Cornwall. There’s only one true love – where do your loyalties lie?

ou can tell a lot about a person by their choice of South West stomping ground. You’ll find the red trouser brigade on the stretch of coast north of the Camel Estuary: Polzeath, Rock and Trebetherick (look out for David Cameron’s famous blue polo shirt). Saltswept surfers hang out at Newquay and Constantine Bay in Cornwall or Croyde and Woolacombe in Devon. The bohemians head for arty St Ives – charming save for the issue of parking in peak season – while the low-key simply pull on their hiking boots and head for moody Dartmoor, fuelling up on fish and chips down in Brixham. Meanwhile, over on the Isles of Scilly, with their white sand beaches and laissezfaire lifestyle, you might as well have been transported to a different country altogether. If you’re looking for a more laidback pace, you’re spoilt for choice between St Mary’s, Tresco and Bryher, although half the fun is exploring the uninhabited islands strewn among the archipelago. Whatever your preference, if you want to avoid a chockablock A30 and a threemonth waiting list for Rick Stein’s seafood restaurant, go out of season, when the fairweather holidaymakers leave that dramatic coastline for you to enjoy all by yourself.

Tresco Island

SEE

The spectacular quality of light first drew artists to Cornwall in the 20th century. In St Ives you can’t move for Barbara Hepworth references, and while her home-turnedmuseum is definitely worth a visit (the sculpture garden is stunning), you can also support local artists with a gallery crawl through town. Try Porthminster Gallery, housed in an old pilchard press, or Art Space Gallery, an eclectic artists’ cooperative. tate.org.uk, porthminstergallery. co.uk, artspace-cornwall.co.uk You don’t need to travel to Ecuador to see incredible wildlife. Dubbed England’s answer to the Galapagos, you can spot puffins, seals and even basking sharks off Lundy Island on Devon’s north coast. Take a day trip, or stay in one of the Landmark Trust’s 23 unique properties. landmarktrust.org.uk

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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; © PATRICIA NIVEN

EAT

You’ll know all about Rick Stein, Jamie Oliver and Nathan Outlaw’s gaffs in Cornwall, but the real foodie scene revolves around places like The Hidden Hut on Porthcurnick Beach, where you can tuck into barbecued mackerel with your toes in the sand. hiddenhut.co.uk Fowey residents will have to brace themselves for the influx of East Londoners as the team behind Stoke Newington’s Primeur opens Fitzroy. There’s nothing urban about its offering though – think daily-landed fish served at table (which is made from locally sourced oak, of course). fitzroycornwall.com Arguably the best seafood restaurant on the Isles of Scilly, High Tide is open just three nights a week. Its views of pretty St Agnes are unbeatable. hightideseafoodrestaurant.co.uk Oyster lovers used to pitch up at Devon’s River Avon with a bottle of wine and a crusty loaf to enjoy with locally caught shellfish. The Oyster Shack in Bigbury continues that tradition on its bright and sunny terrace. Great fun and great value. oystershack.co.uk

DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY

Have a Sunday baking sesh at Coombeshead

BUY

Gin-distilled clotted cream. Sounds like a sickly car crash of an idea. In actual fact The Wrecking Coast’s Tintagelmade spirit is velvety rich on the tongue and exceptionally balanced. Best served with strawberries and tonic. thewreckingcoastdistillery.com We all know the South West is making some champagne-challenging sparkling wines, but how about vermouth? Knightor Winery produces rosé, white and dry versions using herbs and spices picked around the vineyard. Add soda, ice and a slice of orange for a Cornish spritzer. knightor.com Love a picnic but hate the faff? Purely Devon Hampers curates the best local products into hampers for all occasions. Long walks are so much more fun when you can anticipate unpacking one of their epic cream tea picnics. purelydevonhampers.co.uk

Cornish vermouth

You can’t visit north Cornwall without squeezing into a wetsuit and battling the current. Polzeath is good for beginners (but crowded), Gwithian, near St Ives, is much quieter, leaving you more room for wipe outs. Harlyn is one of the friendlier (but less reliable) breaks. Devon’s Croyde and Woolacombe are both welcoming starter spots. Take a few bottles of beer down to Constantine Bay at sunset and watch the pros. Enjoy a slow Sunday learning to bake bread at Coombeshead Farm in Lewannick, Cornwall. It’s worth it just to soak up the atmosphere, and even better when you leave full of hearty lunch, weighed down with bags of bread and a sourdough starter of your own. coombesheadfarm.co.uk Boost your dopamine levels with a quick dip in Devon. Wild water swimming hotspots include the still pool on the Staverton circular walk (complete with rope swing), or the Hindu Caves – a popular spot in Victorian times, they inspired Charles Kingsley’s The Water Babies. devonandcornwallwildswimming.co.uk

Boost endorphins with wild swimming

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; © PATRICIA NIVEN

Jam or cream first?

W H E N

Paul Ainsworth turns pub landlord at The Mariners

T O

G O

JULY

AUGUST

SEPTEMBER

Forget Glastonbury, Glas-Denbury festival is the hottest ticket of the summer. Held in a field in Denbury, South Devon, locals have created a refreshingly authentic addition to the summer festival circuit. glas-denbury.co.uk

There is nothing — absolutely nothing — half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. Live by Ratty’s maxim and visit Dartmouth Royal Regatta, it was a favourite of Queen Victoria’s. Oarsome fun. dartmouthregatta.co.uk

Raise a glass to the grape harvest. It’s the most exciting time to visit Devon and Cornwall’s many excellent vineyards, from Sharpham Estate near Totnes (sharpham.com) to the Camel Valley near Padstow (camelvalley.com).

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

ARTIST RESIDENCE PENZANCE, CORNWALL

It’s unsurprising that Justin and Charlie (Charlotte) Salisbury turned to Cornwall with its vibrant art scene for their second venture after Brighton (see page 90). In the charming old quarter of Penzance they have converted a handsome, 17th-century house into a delightfully eclectic hotel, decorated with works of art from top to toe. In the airy bedrooms, walls are adorned with funky murals painted by British artists, original canvases and limited edition prints. From sleigh beds to packing crate tables, the furniture has panache and seven new bedrooms were unveiled in 2017, plus the fabulous Lookout, a luxe retreat complete with roof terrace, and the self-catering Cottage sleeping up to six. In the Cornish Barn restaurant there are reclaimed wooden walls and bar, metal tables and more art. The look is a cross between kooky and industrial. Drinks and snacks are on tap all day, plus delicious smoked meat and fish at dinner, courtesy of the smoker in the newly unveiled garden, complete with al fresco bar and a programme of outdoor feasts. NOTA BENE... Look closely here for work by Tracey Emin and Peter Blake. Doubles from £85 +44 (0)1736 365664; artistresidence.co.uk

THE BEACH AT BUDE BUDE, CORNWALL

The hottest of Cornish hotspots, The Beach at Bude is a skilfully updated Victorian house that retains its original character along with decoration that feels fresh and modern and looks the epitome of seaside chic. The groovy Beach Bar positively hums at weekends, with its inventive cocktail menu and summer terrace. The hotel has a resplendent position, with views over Summerleaze Beach and the spectacular scenery around Bude. There are five types of room: classic, classic plus, superior, deluxe and family-friendly suites. Opt for one in the top two categories if you can – they have the sea views. All are decorated in a breezy New England style, furnished with Lloyd Loom chairs, limed oak furniture and Vi-Spring beds. Don’t miss lunch or dinner at the sea-facing The Beach restaurant, where the talented new head chef is Jamie Coleman, crowned South West Chef of the Year in 2016. NOTA BENE... The hotel is just a short stroll from Bude Sea Pool – a partially man-made tidal swimming pool, nestled under cliffs near Summerleaze Beach. Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1288 389800; thebeachatbude.co.uk 44 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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BOVEY CASTLE NORTH BOVEY, DEVON

Built in neo-Elizabethan style in 1907 before being taken over by Great Western Railways in 1930 as a hotel and golf resort, Bovey Castle is a grand manor on a 275-acre estate in Dartmoor National Park, with dramatic views, 60 luxurious bedrooms and glamour in spades. And it’s never looked better. Despite the opulence, it isn’t a stuffy hotel where chairs aren’t designed for sitting and children are shushed, but a warm, easy-going one, where families are encouraged, with a staffed playroom and a club for older children. It has a championship golf course, indoor swimming pool, Elan spa, cosy oakpanelled bar and choice of two restaurants: the exclusive Great Western for fine dining and Smith’s Brasserie for light, family-friendly meals. Most fun is a BBQ on the South Terrace, and don’t miss afternoon tea, perhaps on the sunny south terrace with its dazzling vista. Activities, from egg collecting to falconry displays, should keep the whole family occupied. NOTA BENE... For guests who like a little independence, but with full access to the hotel’s facilities, there are 22 three-storey country lodges to rent in the grounds, each sleeping up to eight. Doubles from £175 +44 (0)1647 445000; boveycastle.com

CARY ARMS & SPA BABBACOMBE BEACH, DEVON

Its location is nothing short of spectacular, approached by a narrow lane that descends the cliff. Once ensconced in the Cary Arms & Spa – owned by Peter and Lana de Savary – you feel as though you’re in a Mills & Boon romance and Famous Five adventure rolled into one, its delightful bedrooms each supplied with a stick of rock on snow-white pillows. Eat Devon beef and Lyme Bay lobster in the stone-walled, slatefloored bar, or on pretty terraces that hang over the bay. Bedrooms in the inn are sumptuous and seaside-fresh, while the beach huts and suites are beautiful and contemporary. There are also five smart cottages sleeping groups from four to eight, each with their own gardens and sundowner spots. While no-one would expect sybaritic luxury at a self-styled ‘Inn on the Beach’, there’s actually a state-of-the-art spa with marine Thalgo treatments. Romantic, family friendly and perfect for walkers, sailors, fishermen and dog lovers, there’s something here for everyone. NOTA BENE... Babbacombe Bay has long been a royal favourite – from Queen Victoria’s visit in 1846 to more recent stays of ITV’s ‘Queen of the Jungle’, Georgia Toffolo, in 2017 and 2019. Doubles from £265 +44 (0)1803 327110; caryarms.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 45

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

CHAPEL HOUSE PENZANCE, CORNWALL

Owned by Susan Stuart, whose career started in the city, with an aesthetic as sharp as her mind, Chapel House is an airy Georgian marvel, idyllically positioned over Penzance harbour and steeped in maritime history. Susan has washed the once-imposing home of an admiral in airy white, bringing it deftly into the modern world. Waterfall showers and Nordic chairs mix with opulent marble fireplaces and mahogany chests; the six-bedroom house is as elegant as it is relaxed. Guests who bag the top floor room can bathe under the stars –a glass roof opens above their heads. Walls are peppered with art from the Newlyn School and this elegant haven’s exceptional wine list and cuisine, its crisp linens and books galore beg the question: why leave? On Sundays you can lie in and have brunch, served until midday. If you do make it outside, you can explore antique shops, galleries and otherworldly beaches, while Penlee House Gallery & Museum is a stone’s throw away. NOTA BENE... Chapel House was built for Admiral Samuel Hood Linzee, one of Nelson’s key players; his ship was portrayed in JMW Turner’s 1838 painting, The Fighting Temeraire. Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1736 362024; chapelhousepz.co.uk

THE CIDER HOUSE BUCKLAND ABBEY, DEVON

Bertie and Bryony Hancock are enchanting: young and enthusiastic, they clearly love what they do. They’ve created an equally enchanting guest house in a beautiful old building in the grounds of the National Trust’s Buckland Abbey. As delightful as it’s historic, house guests are free to wander in the wildflower-filled garden and see the immaculate, Trust-maintained, monks’ kitchen garden and beehives. There are four homely bedrooms with all the right sophisticated touches, including Roberts radios, magazines, flowers and Ren products. Breakfast is a feast, cooked by Bryony and served by Bertie, and there are plenty of local pubs and restaurants serving dinner (two within walking distance). Unusually, the Cider House offers two luxurious doublebedded shepherd’s huts just a ten-minute walk away – in glorious unspoilt countryside with views down to the Tamar estuary. NOTA BENE... It’s the only luxury bed and breakfast at the heart of a National Trust estate where guests can roam all 700 acres after Trust visitors have gone home. Buckland Abbey is the former estate of Elizabethan sea captain and explorer, Sir Francis Drake. Doubles from £128 +44 (0)1822 259062; cider-house.co.uk 46 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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DRIFTWOOD ROSELAND, CORNWALL

There’s no more fabulous vista than from clifftop Driftwood. More Mediterranean than Cornish, it overlooks Gerrans Bay on the Roseland Peninsula and includes seven acres of gardens full of secluded, shady spots that lead to a perfect crescent of private beach. Halfway down is a restored cabin with two bedrooms and a sitting room, a magical place to stay in summer. A wildflower garden is home to bees that produce honey for the restaurant. The house itself, a 1930s building transformed with the aid of dusky blue clapboard, makes the most of the views. Whether relaxing in the bedrooms, drinking on the generous terrace or indulging in a delicious meal prepared in the Michelin-starred restaurant and enjoyed in the chic dining room, you’ll want to stay forever. When Paul and Fiona Robinson opened Driftwood 17 years ago neither had hotel experience, but Fiona’s interior designer skills, plus their hands-on approach and ease with guests, have created a delightful Cornish haven: stylish, seaside-fresh and devoid of pretension. NOTA BENE...The vast coastal setting provides an idyllic escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Doubles from £220 +44 (0)1872 580644; driftwoodhotel.co.uk

FOWEY HALL FOWEY, CORNWALL

High above the delightful waterside town of Fowey, which famously inspired author Daphne du Maurier, stands the handsome country house that was also said to be an inspiration for Toad Hall in Kenneth Grahame’s The Wind in the Willows. Inside, as in every Luxury Family Hotel, the ingredients of a perfect grown-up establishment – heralded by a hall with open fires, antiques and chandeliers – are mixed with the essentials of a children’s paradise: indoor and outdoor play areas, Ofsted-registered crèche, baby listening and more. There are 36 rooms and suites, all different, all beautifully furnished with antiques and pretty fabrics; the oak-panelled dining room is the setting for grown up delicious dinners, with family dining in the Garden Room restaurant next door, with the same mouth-watering menus in both. But don’t think you have to have a family with you to come to Fowey Hall: cleverly, it’s a hotel that works just as well for couples. NOTA BENE... The family-friendly spa has an indoor pool equipped for children, as well as adult-only swim times and an outdoor hot tub with a sea view. Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1726 833866; foweyhallhotel.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 47

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

GIDLEIGH PARK CHAGFORD, DEVON

‘Keep heart’ reads a sign along the narrow, twisting lane to Gidleigh Park, ‘you are still en route’. It may be remote, but it’s a haven of luxury. The Tudor-style house, surrounded by abundant gardens and embraced by river and woods on Dartmoor’s edge, has been in the deft hands of Andrew and Christina Brownsword since 2005. They sensitively upgraded the house, embellishing the interior with smart fabrics and arts and craft furniture, but refrained from adding a spa or gym (‘Dartmoor’s our gym!’). Instead creating beautiful rooms, including the indulgent ‘Dartmeet’, a spa suite featuring its own sauna and steam room. Gidleigh is as famous for its restaurant as its divine interiors, and dinner here – outstanding but unpretentious cooking, rooted in the local area – remains the highlight of any stay. The kitchen of one of England’s most spoiling country retreats continues to delight. NOTA BENE... The high standard of cooking at Gidleigh was first established by self-taught Kay Henderson, who won a Michelin star in 1981. After your meal, be sure to make time to borrow a pair of complimentary Dubarrys and enjoy a stroll around the beautiful estate. Doubles from £275 +44 (0)1647 432367; gidleigh.co.uk

GLAZEBROOK HOUSE SOUTH BRENT, DEVON

The outside is conventional – a fine-looking Georgian house in a landscaped garden at the southern tip of Dartmoor – which makes the interior all the more of a surprise. It’s kooky, quirky and huge fun, filled with curiosities as diverse as a stuffed flamingo and a bulldog sculpture wearing a bowler hat. There are parquet floors and plaid carpets, lived-in leather furniture, theatrical chandeliers, a tasting room and walls covered with silver trays, bugles and drums. The brainchild of owners Pieter and Fran Hamman and designer Timothy Oulton, Glazebrook is a breath of fresh air at a time when hotels can look like clones. The nine bedrooms have a playful Alice in Wonderland theme but are also deeply comfortable, with knock-out bathrooms. The Hammans have executed a master stroke by installing MasterChef quarterfinalist Ben Palmer in charge of the restaurant, with Josh Ackland as head chef. The original, well-priced menus and excellent, beautifully presented dishes are hard to beat. NOTA BENE... Former PM Sir John Major, actor John Nettles and diver Tom Daley have all visited Glazebrook over the years. Doubles from £149 +44 (0)1364 73322; glazebrookhouse.com 48 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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THE GURNARD’S HEAD ZENNOR, CORNWALL

‘It’s about the simple things in life done well,’ say brothers Edmund and Charlie Inkin about their three delightful hostelries, the Gurnard’s Head and the Old Coastguard here in Cornwall (see page 52), and the Felin Fach Griffin in Wales (see page 183). Nothing could be closer to the truth nor more perfectly exemplified than at this sunshine-yellow dining pub with rooms, its name writ large on the long, tiled roof. Set in the wild landscape of Cornwall’s Atlantic coast, it’s an unpretentious haven where, in the brightly-painted bedrooms, you’ll find luxurious beds, jam jars filled with fresh flowers and Roberts radios. No TVs or phones. But panic at being cut off quickly gives way to a sense of peace and satisfaction, reinforced by head chef Max Wilson’s divine local and seasonal menu, changed daily according to what’s brought to the back door. NOTA BENE... This inn, with its quite extraordinary sea and moorland views, sits close to the artists’ community of St Ives, which in the 1950s and ’60s became the hangout of painters such as Hepworth, Frost, Heron and Hilton and poets like WS Graham. Doubles from £130 B&B +44 (0)1736 796928; gurnardshead.co.uk

HELL BAY BRYHER, ISLES OF SCILLY

California meets the Atlantic Ocean at this terrific hotel on Bryher, in the Isles of Scilly. It takes commitment to get there by ferry and Jeep but when you do you’ll find nothing but grass, golden sand, a jumble of rocks and the vast ocean between you and America. It’s the creation of Robert DorrienSmith, hereditary owner of neighbouring island, Tresco. He has filled the seaside-fresh hotel with modern art, all with a regional connection. There are 25 beautiful, airy suites most with stunning sea views. You’ll also find a swimming pool, tennis court and fitness rooms, as well as a sumptuous spa treatment room and a new yoga studio. Delicious, colourful dishes, including local produce such as Bryher crabs and Tresco beef, are served in sunny weather on the wide terrace, where you can drink in the astonishing views. NOTA BENE... Bryher is the smallest of the inhabited islands of Scilly and measures only about half a square mile. Doubles from £280 +44 (0)1720 422947; hellbay.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 49

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

HOTEL ENDSLEIGH MILTON ABBOT, DEVON

This delightful Regency cottage orné is set down a mile-long drive in its own secret valley. Built for the Duke and Duchess of Bedford, its gardens were laid out by Humphry Repton, whose plans included siting hidden chimneys in the woods so they could see smoke curling prettily above the trees. Today, over a delicious meal, you can gaze on the same view from lovely terraces. Repton’s Yew Walk, the River Tamar and the tumbling woods beyond are a mesmerising sight. With its wooden floors and doors, Endsleigh brings to mind an endearingly old-fashioned Scottish shooting lodge, but one artfully blended with contemporary luxury and owner Olga Polizzi’s stunning eye for design. The 19 bedroom are stylish and unfussy and include three suites in the stable block. One is perfect for families, another for honeymooners, while the newest is a quirky and delightful conversion of the former hayloft. As for the grounds, they’re a fantasy of dells and grottos, cascades and crags. NOTA BENE... Room 8 has stunning handpainted chinoiserie wallpaper, commissioned for a visit by Queen Victoria in 1856. Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1822 870000; hotelendsleigh.com

HOTEL TRESANTON ST MAWES, CORNWALL

With fabulous views over Falmouth Bay, Tresanton became a landmark when hotelier Olga Polizzi created the first truly fashionable and chic British seaside bolthole. This year, celebrating its 21st anniversary, it effortlessly continues to hold its own without any of the pretension of more recent, glossier addresses. Indeed, with its Beach Club, new last year, for lounging in the sun or eating gourmet burgers, it has never been better. Bedrooms are engaging and stylish and there’s a ship’s deck of a terrace. But the hotel also has cosiness, underpinned by professional service from waiters in white, silver-buttoned jackets. As well as the bedrooms in the main house, there are three each in separate Rock Cottage and The Nook. These fabulous suites are perfect for families, while the master suite in Rock Cottage has a wood burner and crow’s nest terrace. As for the locally sourced food, it’s served in a magical Mediterranean room, sunlit by day, candlelit by night. NOTA BENE... The hotel’s 8m yacht, Pinuccia, designed by Vincenzo Vittorio Baglietto to represent Italy in the 1939 World Cup, was allegedly once owned by Mussolini. Doubles from £225 +44 (0)1326 270055; tresanton.com 50 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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LYMPSTONE MANOR EXMOUTH, DEVON

This handsome country-house hotel is the culmination of experience gleaned by chef patron Michael Caines over an exceptional career as a Michelin-starred celebrity chef. Once the playground of the Baring banking family, it now has 21 glamorous guest rooms that take their names from birds of the Exe Estuary below them. Indeed, the soul of the place revolves around the Exe and its birdlife, featured in the staircase wallpaper, hand-painted by local artist Rachel Toll, the pictures of surrounding Devonshire scenery and the soothing bedroom colour schemes. But the reason you come here isn’t really for the deep outdoor soak tubs that overlook the estuary or the sensational views, pampering bathrooms or complimentary G&T tray in your room – it’s to experience Michael’s exquisite and intelligent food, informed by two decades at the helm of a two-Michelin-starred restaurant; he earned Lympstone’s first star within six months of opening in 2017. NOTA BENE... Michael Caines’ latest project is a southwest-facing vineyard he planted with 17,500 vines in 2018, to produce his own Champagne-method sparkling wine. Doubles from £340 +44 (0)1395 202040; lympstonemanor.co.uk

THE NARE VERYAN, CORNWALL

Opened in 1989 by Bettye Gray, whose family has been central to the Cornish hotel scene since 1908, the Nare was the county’s first luxury establishment. Today, owner Toby Ashworth excels in upholding his grandmother’s vision of warm, traditional hospitality and his many regular guests are drawn by the enveloping kindness, the offer of collection by car from their home, the location on stunning Carne Beach and the fine food in the splendid dining room, where waitresses dart about in white pinnies and the hors d’oeuvre, flambé and dessert trolleys are on hand. Children are embraced, dogs have their own menus, and there’s a fine spa with two pools. No bothersome advance booking is required for activities: in fact, Toby likes nothing better than to suggest a sail in his Cornish Crabber with picnic ready-stowed, or to visit one of the many gardens nearby. The hotel even has its own motor launch, Alice Rose. A place of great British comfort, perfect for extended families. NOTA BENE... The Nare has its own ravishing classic Morgan sports car for guests to hire during their stay. Doubles from £299 +44 (0)1872 501111; narehotel.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 51

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE OLD COASTGUARD MOUSEHOLE, CORNWALL

Of Charlie and Edmund Inkin’s collection of effortlessly laid-back places to stay (see pages 49 and 183), this has the best location: overlooking the sea in the enchanting fishing village of Mousehole, noted for its artists, Christmas illuminations and invention of stargazy pie. A hotel since Victorian times, the 14 attractive sea-facing bedrooms have superb beds, Roberts radios, Bramley products, auction room finds and striped curtains. Downstairs, in the open-plan bar/dining room, you’ll tuck in to superb dishes – perhaps fish stew with fennel, new potatoes, sea vegetables and aioli, or milk-braised pork belly with choucroute, kohlrabi and mustard sauce – all cooked by new Head Chef, Cornishman Jamie Porter. Making the most of the view through picture windows, the sun-filled sitting area runs the length of the ground floor. Lazing there, looking through the palm trees to the sea, you’ll keep delaying your departure by another hour. It’s that sort of place. Reopening after summer 2019 due to fire damage. NOTA BENE... In 1930 Dylan Thomas described Mousehole as ‘the loveliest village in England’, a tribute that holds true today. Doubles from £150 B&B +44 (0)1736 731222; oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk

THE PIG – AT COMBE GITTISHAM, DEVON

As you approach this Grade I-listed Elizabethan manor down the mile-long drive, surrounded by meadows, it slips tantalisingly in and out of sight, building a sense of romance that’s utterly fulfilled on arrival. Always a special place, it’s now brimful of life, bonhomie and stylish informality – and perhaps the most exciting PIG hotel yet. With the main bar installed in the historic Grand Hall, the fun starts the moment you walk in. There’s a wonderful, double aspect conservatory restaurant with bare wood floors, restored shutters and incredible views; cosy snugs with roaring fires; a bar with wood-fired oven in the ‘derelict chic’ Folly; huge raftered bedrooms in the attic; an atmospheric private dining room in the original Georgian kitchen and so much more. In the walled ‘herb and infusion’ gardens, two potting sheds are now delightful treatment rooms, beyond which stretch 3,500 acres of lush Devonshire countryside. Close by are the wide open spaces of Dartmoor and the World Heritage coast. A total joy. NOTA BENE... The seclusion of THE PIG – at Combe is easily attainable, just three miles from Honiton station and 11 miles from Exeter airport. Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1404 540400; thepighotel.com 52 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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POLURRIAN ON THE LIZARD MULLION, CORNWALL

It’s all change at this one-time Victorian railway hotel, standing proud on the Lizard Peninsula with stunning, unspoilt views. It not only has a new name (it used to be the Polurrian Bay Hotel), but also new interiors, new menus and a new vibe. A comprehensive refurbishment has created a fresh look and feel that’s coastal and quirky, with an emphasis on great service and relaxation. Formal dining has given way to an easy-going restaurant, serving tasty Mediterranean dishes from the finest seasonal Cornish ingredients and with a wood-fired Gozney oven for handstretched pizzas. Artisan drinks and enticing cocktails with a Cornish twist are perfect for sipping at the bar as the sun sets over Mount’s Bay. Coastal walks, clifftop tennis, indoor and outdoor pools and water sports will satisfy the most hyperactive of guests. There’s a private beach for sandcastle building plus yoga classes, a gym and Elemis treatments in the health club, where you can recover from the full-on activity. NOTA BENE... Guglielmo Marconi stayed here in 1901, when experimenting with the first transatlantic radio messages from Poldhu cove. Doubles from £119 +44 (0)1326 240421; polurrianhotel.com

THE SCARLET MAWGAN PORTH, CORNWALL

Overlooking romantic Mawgan Porth beach, this scintillating eco hotel blurs the boundaries between inside and out, with glass walls, flat roofs covered in sea thrift and infinity pools that seem to reach to the sea. At its heart is the womb-like Ayurveda-inspired spa, with tented pods suspended in the dark for deep relaxation. There’s an indoor pool and a reed-fringed, rock-strewn outdoor one, plus two clifftop hot tubs perched between boulders overlooking the ocean. Bedrooms are in clusters on several levels – soothing, with funky touches, excellent lighting, gorgeous beds and sea and sunset views. As for the delicious food, executive chef Mike Francis oversees his team with an air of calm, kindness and mutual respect for them, consistently serving up exceptional seasonal dishes from the Scarlet kitchen. The Scarlet may be thoroughly green but there’s no sense of a hair shirt approach: once inside this adult-only sanctuary, the feeling is one of soothing, sybaritic luxury. NOTA BENE... The Scarlet believes that true sustainability is ‘a way of life’, not just a trend or style, and it currently demonstrates that philosophy in over 101 different ways. Doubles from £250 +44(0)1637 861800; scarlethotel.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 53

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THE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT PADSTOW, CORNWALL

Padstow is synonymous with Rick and Jill Stein. And if a restaurant can be a hub, then Rick’s famous Seafood Restaurant is just that, where red-aproned waiters whisk about in the airy, colourful dining room and a chandelier made of bobbing white fish creates an eye-catching start to a memorable meal. Alternatively, you can eat more simply at Rick Stein’s Café, St Petroc’s Bistro or Stein’s Fish & Chips, all equally fun. As for sleeping, choose from a variety of stylish lodgings, each designed by Jill and set in charming, whitewashed village houses. There are lovely rooms above the Seafood Restaurant, while the cheapest are above the Café and the most expensive in St Edmund’s House, which has oak floors, American shutters and views across the Camel Estuary. There are four sunny rooms in Prospect House and a further ten in St Petroc’s, just behind it. Finally, one-bedroomed Bryn cottage, in the heart of Padstow, has estuary views, its own kitchen and a secluded garden. NOTA BENE... A day at Rick’s cookery school offers the perfect balance of chef demonstrations and hands-on learning (and eating). Doubles from £165 +44 (0)1841 532700; rickstein.com

STAR CASTLE HOTEL ST MARY’S, ISLES OF SCILLY

Fashioned from a perfect, star-shaped, 16th-century castle on a headland above Hugh Town, this historic hotel is a stellar find. Stretching out behind are the modern Garden Rooms, perfect for families, plus an indoor pool and conservatory dining room, all set in lush grounds. Once the most secure defence post in the British Isles, the castle now has the charm and intimacy of a Cotswold cottage. There’s a cosy bar (formerly the dungeon), first floor sitting room and stone-walled dining room, with eight charming bedrooms in the castle, plus three in former guardrooms. As for food, indulge in owner Robert Francis’s two passions, fishing and wine, by eating a steamed lobster that he’s caught himself and drinking a fabulous bottle of Pinot Noir or Chardonnay from his Holy Vale vineyard, where he lovingly tends 7,000 vines. At breakfast Robert’s son James arranges guest outings along with the hotel’s boatman, Tim. It’s a family affair, and a special one at that. NOTA BENE... Also popular with the royal family, Star Castle has long welcomed crowned heads, from Charles II to our own Charles, HRH the Prince of Wales. Doubles from £179 +44 (0)1720 422317; star-castle.co.uk 54 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY

ST MORITZ TREBETHERICK, CORNWALL

More than just a hotel, St Moritz has elements of a transatlantic beach resort, as befits its name. In the quiet hamlet of Trebetherick, between Rock and Polzeath on the north coast, it’s the ideal destination for a relaxing beach holiday, indulgent spa break or family get-together, and not only in summertime. The dramatic coastline, secret coves, green fields and sweeping beaches provide the perfect backdrop at any time of year. Inside, whichever one of the rooms, suites, apartments, penthouses and villas you choose, it swiftly becomes your seaside sanctuary. Each is finished with the hotel’s chic, contemporary look, featuring modern furniture, spa goodies and stunning views. Book a King Room and a stripy poolside beach hut is yours too. In the leisure building you’ll find a Cowshed spa, while the Shorecrest Restaurant offers a tempting menu that’s brimming with fresh, local, seasonal produce. NOTA BENE... The heated outdoor pool opens for the spring and summer months and the surrounding terrace, with sea view, is perfect for people-watching and sunbathing. Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1208 862242; stmoritzhotel.co.uk

TREWORNAN MANOR WADEBRIDGE, CORNWALL

Paul and Lesley Stapleton are natural hosts – genial, welcoming and knowledgeable about the area. In 2014 they rescued this handsome Grade II-listed manor from a state of dilapidation. They have refurbished the place immaculately, retaining fine architectural features whilst bringing the house into the 21st century. The seven bedrooms – including a brand new double and a suite – have been beautifully and individually decorated, with emperor-sized beds and state-of-the-art bathrooms. The little things haven’t been forgotten either, with hotties and robes upstairs and crackling fires, delicious breakfasts and an honesty bar downstairs. Cream teas are hand-baked by Paul’s mother, while the large sitting room is a real home from home. The location could hardly be better, within striking distance of some of North Cornwall’s best and prettiest towns, beaches, golf courses and restaurants, including Michelin-starred Nathan Outlaw in Port Isaac and Paul Ainsworth in Padstow. A great place to escape the kids. NOTA BENE... The Domesday Book dates the house to 1211, making it one of the oldest in the country. Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1208 812359; trewornanmanor.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 55

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Darryn Kemper, Coastal Dream. Durdle Door, Dorset Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 12 (AA Publishing, Â£25)

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The West Country Go for the scrumpy and stay for the good times. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s much more to this part of the country than meets the eye, from thriving metropolises with alive-and-kicking counter cultures, to prehistoric coastlines steadily revealing their bounty

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Spend a day exploring lovely Lyme Regis

Book ahead for HIX Oyster & Fish House

West Life

EAT

rom the sandy beaches of Dorset to the pretty villages of Wiltshire, England’s West Country has long been a popular holiday destination. On the Jurassic Coast, from Lyme Regis to Bournemouth, Dorset boasts one of the UK’s most beautiful coastlines, with bays, beaches and seaside towns aplenty. Thomas Hardy was born in Dorset back in 1840 and never left, using the bucolic landscape as the backdrop for his fictional Wessex (named after the Anglo-Saxon kingdom). Its neighbour, Somerset, is equally charming: a prime rural delight filled with green pastures, rolling hills and cider orchards. Then there’s Wiltshire, a landscape littered with mysterious stone and crop circles, most notably the world-famous Stonehenge. There are a number of thriving cities across these three counties, the largest being Bristol, known for its spectacular topography, independent spirit and vibrant street art. Though just 12 miles away, Bath feels different – more leisurely, elegant and refined. Visitors come to walk in the footsteps of Jane Austen, admire the glorious Georgian architecture and relax at the Roman thermal spa. Further east is Salisbury, which, despite hitting the headlines for the Russian nerve agent attack last year, was dubbed the best place to live in the UK by the Sunday Times. Often referred to as ‘the city in the countryside’, Salisbury is home to a magnificent cathedral that has one of the original copies of the Magna Carta and Britain’s tallest spire.

Hardy’s Cottage has hardly changed since his great-grandfather’s day

SEE

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; ©MATT AUSTIN

Head to Hardy country, where the beaches are long and the cider is strong

Dorset has long been famed for celebrity foodies. Hugh FearnleyWhittingstall’s River Cottage HQ and Mark Hix’s HIX Oyster & Fish House in Lyme Regis are both cult classics. One of the best country pubs is The Talbot Inn in Mells. At the Coach House Grill room (weekends only) the food is cooked much the same way it would have been in country inns hundreds of years ago: grilled over an open charcoal and wood fire. talbotinn.com Bristol’s food scene has a handful of Michelin stars, but you don’t have to splash the cash to get good grub. Take Bravas, for instance, heralded by locals as the best tapas spot in the city. Kieran and Imogen Waite started out hosting supper clubs in their harbourside flat, before going on to open an intimate bar and restaurant on Cotham Hill. They send their staff to Spain each year for recipe research – and it pays off. bravas.co.uk

Forget Stonehenge – you’ll have plenty of time to see it when you’re stuck in traffic on the A303, caused by people slowing down to take a look. For a quieter but equally historic alternative try Stourhead, one of the UK’s first Palladian country villas, with a spectacular garden. Get far from the madding crowd at Thomas Hardy’s quaint cob and thatch cottage in Higher Bockhampton, little changed since his great-grandfather built it by hand in 1800 – a second half was added in 1840, at Hardy’s birth. nationaltrust.org.uk Historic in a different way is the Jurassic Coast. While Lulworth Cove, Durdle Door and Old Harry Rocks are all mighty impressive, we’re only there for the fossils. Charmouth is your best bet – visit after a storm, when fresh rockfalls reveal their secrets.

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THE WEST COUNTRY

Stonehenge attracts over a million visitors every year

BUY

Get your cider fix at Sheppy’s

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; ©MATT AUSTIN

Pick up some vintage steals in Bristol. At St Nicholas Market you’ll find the city’s largest collection of independent retailers, covering everything from retro sweets to fossils and clothes. stnicholasmarketbristol.co.uk There’s also a wealth of farm shops and farmers’ markets across the West Country, ideal for buying top quality local produce. Taunton Farmers’ Market in Somerset is held every Thursday year-round, selling fresh fruit and vegetables, organic meat and eggs and a wide selection of regional cheeses, chutneys and preserves. Another gem is Kimbers’ Farm Shop in Wincanton, run by a family who have been farming the same land for over 300 years.

Kimbers’ Farm Shop

W H E N

River Cottage: a cult classic since the ’90s

‘A very strange stranger it must be, who does not see charms in Lyme,’ wrote Jane Austen, who made the town the setting for Persuasion. Affectionately nicknamed ‘the pearl of Dorset’, Lyme Regis is a charming seaside town with narrow streets, independent shops and brilliant beaches. It’s also famous for its geology: it was a hub for early pioneering palaeontologists like Mary Anning, and today it remains a hotspot for fossil hunting. Dramatically located in Poole Harbour, looking out across to the Purbeck Hills, Brownsea Island is home to thriving natural habitats, including woodland, heathland and a lagoon – havens for rare wildlife, including red squirrels and sika deer. nationaltrust.org.uk For a snifter of local cider, head to Sheppy’s Farm in Bradford-on-Tone, Somerset, where the Sheppy family has spent 200 years perfecting their recipe. sheppyscider.com Cheddar Gorge is not about OD-ing on cheese but visiting England’s largest ravine, just under 400ft deep and three miles long, with caves. Spectacular. cheddargorge.co.uk

T O

G O

AUGUST

SEPTEMBER

NOVEMBER

Bristol International Balloon Fiesta: a truly unique sight, this is Europe’s largest annual meeting of hot air balloons, from 8-11 August. Don’t miss the night glows and firework finale. What a lot of hot air! bristolballoonfiesta.co.uk

Curated by superstar chef, Mark Hix, Food Rocks is a food festival in Lyme Regis on 7-8 September. It unites the best local food and drink producers, all for a good cause, namely the Fishermen’s Mission and RNLI. hixrestaurants.co.uk

Nothing lights up the winter sky quite like Longleat’s Festival of Light. This year, roam the estate’s 30 acres to discover myths and legends from across the world, told through Chinese lanterns. Magical. longleat.co.uk

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE ABBEY HOTEL BATH, SOMERSET

The Abbey Hotel is a charming newly refurbished boutique hotel, ideally located just a stones throw away from the iconic Bath Abbey and with all of the city’s top attractions right on its doorstep. Enter through the grand Georgian doors and be warmly welcomed by the friendly front of house team. Prepare to be blown away by the modern décor that adorns the walls of reception and continues throughout the hotel in all 62 bedrooms and public lounges. Guests enjoy sumptuously comfortable beds, luxurious toiletries and complimentary wifi. The English and French brasserie-style eatery within the hotel is not to be missed; Koffmann & Mr White's is the first joint venture of two acclaimed culinary legends, Pierre Koffmann and Marco Pierre White. The hotel’s ArtBar is well known locally as one of the best cocktail bars in the city, and one of the many reasons why the hotel is quickly becoming one of the most sought after places to eat, sleep and drink in Bath. NOTA BENE... Wayne, the front of house manager, is knowledgeable and passionate about the hotel and Bath; what Wayne doesn’t know, simply isn’t worth knowing. Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1225 461603; abbeyhotelbath.co.uk

THE BECKFORD ARMS FONTHILL GIFFORD, WILTSHIRE

On the Fonthill Estate, founded by the eccentric William Beckford in the 18th century, the stylish yet immediately welcoming Beckford Arms combines country pub, restaurant and comforting place to stay in equal measure. Eat in the animated bar, elegant dining room or pretty conservatory; there's also private dining for 12 in the library or for 24 in the quiet sitting room, with its log fire, sofas and table piled with books and magazines. You eat well: pickled quail’s eggs and homemade sausage rolls at the bar, hearty but imaginative lunches and dinners, peerless breakfasts. You sleep well too: co-owners Dan Brod and Charlie Luxton have thought of everything for the sophisticated guest, from luxurious beds to woolly hot-water bottles, digital radios with iPod docks, pretty throws, garden flowers, great DVDs and Chloë Luxton’s lovely Bramley bath products. There’s an outdoor pizza oven and boules piste, and the garden rambles delightfully towards the stone arch that frames views of romantic Fonthill and its lake. NOTA BENE... In 2011 a ‘moonshine still’ was found, thought to date from when the inn was a hangout for American fighter pilots in WWII. Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1747 870385; beckfordarms.com 60 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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THE WEST COUNTRY

THE BIRD, BATH BATH, SOMERSET

Have you heard about The Bird? Well, you have now – a great-value new address in Bath, from experienced hoteliers Ian and Christa Taylor, whose Kaleidoscope Collection of hotels always pack a punch (see No.15 Great Pulteney, page 65 and Homewood, page 62). Inside this vibrant Bird's nest you’ll find 31 upscale, nicely whacky bedrooms, from Tiny Double to Comfy King and Deluxe Family, many with views of Bath Abbey. Each is different but they're all full of colour, with statement bedheads, showy chandeliers and interesting pictures as well as divine Hypnos beds, boat baths and platesized showerheads. The fresh and fun looks, with avian nods to the hotel’s name, are most dramatic in the restaurant, The Roost, where a stellar breakfast is served and the mesmerising walls make quite a contrast to Regency Bath outside. Around the corner are some of the city’s best-loved sights, including Great Pulteney Street, the Victoria Art Gallery and Pulteney weir. A real perk: free parking. NOTA BENE... Request a room at the back of the house for views out over the Recreation Ground and Bath Abbey. Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1225 425003; thebirdbath.co.uk

BOWOOD HOTEL, SPA AND GOLF RESORT CALNE, WILTSHIRE

There are 43 spacious, contemporary bedrooms in this fine estate hotel, but it’s the stunning reception rooms, designed by the Marchioness of Lansdowne, that make the place: soft grey hall, book-lined library and sweeping Shelburne bar and restaurant, made for elegant but contemporary dining. Stay here – within 2,000 acres of Capability Brown parkland – and enjoy one of the finest allweather PGA Championship golf courses in the South West. Alternatively, take over the four-bedroom Queenwood Lodge, perfect for special occasions. Bowood House, located on the estate just a mile from the hotel, has been home to the Lansdowne family since 1754. Tour the house and grounds and, in spring, don’t miss the spectacular rhododendron gardens. Alongside the hotel, enjoy a spell in the beautiful award-winning spa with infinity pool or a mouthwatering afternoon tea in the library. So much to do, in such a lovely place. NOTA BENE... In May 2009 Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall, officially opened the hotel, which has just celebrated its tenth birthday. Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1249 822228; bowood.org 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 61

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE EASTBURY SHERBORNE, DORSET

An early Georgian gentleman’s residence in the historic heart of Sherborne, The Eastbury is an award-winning boutique hotel, recently refurbished in country house style by its new owners, Peter and Lana de Savary. Guests keep returning for its understated charm, friendly staff, comfortable rooms and stand-out restaurant, and who can blame them? The 21 bedrooms are split between traditional-style and contemporary, full of colour and abstract paintings. The fabrics are all superb quality and crisp Egyptian cotton bedlinen. Five new Potting Shed Garden Suites are discreetly located within the leafy landscaped grounds, as is the UK’s first Hobbit House Spa, which has a sedum and moss roof. On the à la carte menu at Seasons, executive chef Matthew Street’s acclaimed dishes include delicate hake and cod of delicious proportions; in summer, nothing beats eating al fresco among the walled garden’s herbaceous borders. NOTA BENE... Sherborne is world famous for its schools. ‘Old Shirburnians’ include actors Hugh Bonneville, Jon Pertwee and Jeremy Irons, the Emir of Qatar, Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad Al Thani, and author Sophie Kinsella. Doubles from £195 +44 (0)1935 813131; theeastburyhotel.co.uk

HOMEWOOD FRESHFORD, SOMERSET

This creeper-clad manor house with its roots in the 13th century is hidden at the end of a long drive. It stands above the attractive village of Freshford with its picturesque viaduct and train line that runs to both Bradfordon-Avon and Bath, just ten minutes away. A longstanding hotel, it acquired a new lease of life in 2018, when it was bought by seasoned hoteliers Ian and Christa Taylor (see also The Bird, page 61 and No.15 Great Pulteney, page 65, both in the centre of Bath). Homewood has happily submitted to their elegant, quirky, colourful and refreshingly individual approach to hospitality, with 21 boutique bedrooms ranging from garden suites set in the lovely grounds to cosy classics in the original part of the house. Nowadays the vibe at Homewood, including in the laid-back restaurant, is relaxed, the enjoyable food is home-cooked and locally sourced and the spa, using organic ila beauty products, puts the emphasis on emotional as well as physical wellbeing. NOTA BENE... Freshford is to be found in an area of outstanding natural beauty, so don’t miss the opportunity for a walk around the village. Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1225 723731; homewoodbath.co.uk 62 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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THE WEST COUNTRY

HOWARD’S HOUSE TEFFONT EVIAS, WILTSHIRE

Built in 1623 and tucked away in an unspoilt Wiltshire village deep in the Nadder Valley, Howard’s House is quintessentially English and blends timelessly into the landscape. A hotel since 1989, it offers a sought-after oasis of calm, superbly run in the hands of Simon Greenwood and his team. In the glorious flower-filled garden, protected by an old topiary hedge, the only sounds you’re likely to hear are birdsong and the knock of ball on mallet. After a recent renovation, the nine comfortable bedrooms all sport fresh paint, floral fabrics and crisp white bedspreads. Experienced head chef Andy Britton uses only the finest locally sourced seasonal ingredients, most from the bountiful kitchen gardens. The terrace is the perfect setting for al fresco dining and indulgent afternoon teas. With the added benefit of the newly converted Coach House, perfect for private parties of up to 24, this hidden gem in the heart of Wiltshire is full of unpretentious charm. NOTA BENE... The picture-postcard hotel regularly receives accolades for its romantic qualities (including a Cesar Award from the Good Hotel Guide) and is a sought-after destination for couples. Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1722 716392; howardshousehotel.co.uk

LITTLE BARWICK HOUSE YEOVIL, SOMERSET

A white-painted mix of early Georgian and Victorian, with a huge cedar on the lawn, a glorious garden and surrounded by fields where ponies graze, Little Barwick House is a quiet delight. It’s one of those highly accomplished yet soothing and unpretentious small hotels where stress levels fall back to zero and tired guests, once installed by the fire, perhaps with a G&T and the prospect of a bottle of Givry with dinner, are comforted, mollified and altogether pepped up. Tim Ford’s uncomplicated, locally renowned cooking (perhaps saddle of wild roe deer or Cornish red mullet with saffron sauce) is the heart of the operation, matched by his wife Emma’s superb and well-sourced wine list, helpfully divided by taste. Their enjoyment in what they do, and the ease with which they do it, generates the calm, contented atmosphere. Friendly helpers in their own clothes add to the feeling of being in a private, if beautifully orchestrated, home; rooms are also snug and tranquil, with deliciously comfortable beds. NOTA BENE... The impressive wine list is Emma’s passion and she’s full of good ideas about what to choose for perfectly-balanced gastronomy. Doubles from £126 +44 (0)1935 423902; littlebarwick.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 63

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

LUCKNAM PARK COLERNE, WILTSHIRE

At the head of a double avenue of lime and beech trees, Lucknam Park is a country house hotel in a league of its own. It occupies a mellow 17th-century mansion, with gracious reception rooms and stylish bedrooms in the house and former stables. It’s impeccably run, with attentive yet discreet service. You’ll find Hywel Jones’ exceptional Michelin-starred cooking in his eponymous formal restaurant and the cool, contemporary brasserie with open kitchen. Then there’s the spa, including sleek indoor/ outdoor pool, sauna, salt room, social lounge with mixology bar, and eight treatment rooms. The impressive equestrian centre caters to all standards, and the innovative Cookery School runs a host of courses. For your own slice of the estate, book the new four-bedroom luxury Squire’s Cottage or the chic, three-bedroom Keeper’s Cottage and hire a private chef for the night. Excellent facilities for children, including dedicated play areas, make Lucknam as great a choice for families as for romantic couples, groups of friends and celebrations. NOTA BENE... In World War II the long, leafy driveway was used by airmen to hide Spitfires. Doubles from £260 +44 (0)1225 742777; lucknampark.co.uk

THE METHUEN ARMS CORSHAM, WILTSHIRE

Maddie and Leigh make a rare but winning mangement partnership – both professional and fun. Their enthusiasm and drive has secured the reputation of this former coaching inn, which was recently awarded its third AA Rosette, as a first-rate local pub-restaurant on Corsham’s charming High Street. An inn since 1608, its handsome façade is Georgian, in common with many of its neighbours, and at the back a pretty courtyard comes into its own in summer. There might be a convivial buzz in the bar downstairs, but all is cool and harmonious in the decoration: Farrow & Ball colours, stone and wood floors, tall windows, tweed cushions and leather banquettes. Each of the 19 reassuringly calm bedrooms has comfy armchairs, Roberts radios, mini fridges, thick blankets and feather pillows. Also its award-winning head chef, Leigh Evans is a secret weapon. He chooses only local, top quality ingredients for the all-day restaurant to create seasonal dishes, crammed full of exciting flavours. NOTA BENE.. The Duke of Edinburgh has played skittles and darts at the Methuen, with his compatriots from the Royal Arthur Petty Officer Training School in Corsham. Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1249 717060; themethuenarms.com 64 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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MOONFLEET MANOR WEYMOUTH, DORSET

What more idyllic setting for a family break than a hotel intriguingly named Moonfleet Manor? If it sounds like something out of an adventure novel, it is: steeped in smuggling history, the house formed the backdrop for John Meade Falkner’s swashbuckling novel of the same name. Built for Maximilian Mohune and overlooking Fleet Lagoon and Chesil Beach, the big, friendly Georgian house has a spectacular location. Its elegant, beautifully-proportioned and welcoming interiors provide the perfect contrast to the spine-tingling landscape of Chesil Beach, an 18 mile-long stretch of pebbles (about 180 billion, they reckon) and setting for the eponymous film based on Ian McEwan’s novel. With its Ofstedregistered crèche, Verandah, indoor play zone, outdoor sandpit and playground, tennis courts, spa treatment rooms and indoor pool, plus fine dining in the Mediterranean-style restaurant and bedroom decor that ranges from grand Georgian to colonial chic or contemporary, Moonfleet is truly a family affair. NOTA BENE... The pebbles on Chesil Beach change in size as you move along the coast: from fist-sized near Portland to pea-sized at West Bay. Doubles from £109 +44 (0)1305 786948; moonfleetmanorhotel.co.uk

NO.15 GREAT PULTENEY BATH, SOMERSET

This fabulous on-the-pulse address from seasoned hoteliers Ian and Christa Taylor has a small yet wonderfully eccentric spa and an informal restaurant. There are light dishes, afternoon tea and cocktails (each one described on a playing card, so you can knock back negronis while playing Racing Demon) in both the ground floor Bar 15 and basement The Dispensary. But what really distinguishes this gem is its magnificent attention to detail – quirky looks, various collections of kaleidoscopes, shells, snuff bottles, jewellery, chandeliers and so much more. (Be sure to check out the Ladies and Gents.) It’s all rather spicy for Bath, in a lighthearted and playful way. Bedrooms, many designed by Martin Hulbert (and others by the Taylors themselves), are fun and romantic, while the apothecary-style The Dispensary is an engaging spot for breakfast. As for stately Great Pulteney Street, it’s one of the neoclassical wonders of the Georgian city. NOTA BENE... Make sure you take the stairs to admire the quirky collections, which include giant perfume bottles and Natwest piggy banks; the chandeliers are created with found objects, from stray earrings to gramophone horns. Doubles from £149 +44 (0)1225 807015; no15greatpulteney.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 65

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

NUMBER 38 CLIFTON BRISTOL

Having been brought up on Tresco in the Isles of Scilly and dedicated to the business of upmarket hospitality (see Hell Bay, page 49), brothers Adam and Michael Dorrien Smith are well placed to run a luxury guest house and at Number Thirty Eight they do so with aplomb. The double-fronted Georgian town house stands on the edge of quirky Clifton village, with fabulous views over the Downs and the city. You enter straight into the elegant sitting room, where delicious breakfasts and cream teas are served at tables in the huge bay windows, and sofas and armchairs are grouped around an open fire (there’s also a suntrap terrace). Interesting, eye-catching art decorates the walls and the 12 gorgeous bedrooms range through four floors, each with attractively panelled walls painted in soothing shades, and all with panoramic park and city views. Now there are two more fabulous suites, together with an elegant meeting room for ten, thanks to the purchase of the house next door. NOTA BENE... There’s a wide range of Cornish and West Country art dotted around the public areas, plus a very special David Hockney original. Doubles from £115 +44 (0)1179 466905; number38clifton.com

THE PIG – NEAR BATH PENSFORD, SOMERSET

This may be just one of six rural-themed PIG hotels (see pages 52, 83, 98 and opposite), but its 2014 advent broke new ground for the group: a proper, grown-up hotel that has all the country house attributes (space, proportions, dreamy views), but none of the drawbacks (staid, formal, eye-wateringly expensive). It’s fun and glamorous without ever losing sight of comfort. ‘It’s THE PIG on steroids,’ says owner Robin Hutson (though luckily not the price, which is the opposite of pumped-up). Once again Judy Hutson created the look: Belgian tiles, quirky wallpaper, velvet curtains, oil paintings and chandeliers, plus a wonderfully louche private dining room based on the Rolling Stones’ Beggars Banquet: ragamuffins feasting in a castle. As at all the PIGS, the kitchen garden is central and its abundant produce appears on your plate in the lovely conservatory. It’s a great venue for one of the PIGS’ fantastic Smoked & Uncut festivals, when you can take a room or glamp in a bell tent if the mood takes you. NOTA BENE... There are 15 varieties of apple tree in the walled garden orchard. Apples are harvested and used in dishes on the menus. Doubles from £155 +44 (0)1761 490490; thepighotel.com 66 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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THE WEST COUNTRY

THE PIG – ON THE BEACH STUDLAND, DORSET

With its wacky profusion of turrets, gargoyles, stone casements and overlapping tiles on steep roofs, this enchanting 18th-century house will bring an instant smile to your face and memories of Hansel and Gretel. As for the views, you’ll be entranced, especially looking across the sheepflecked fields and the sea to Old Harry Rocks. Built as a grand summer house, this Studland Bay delight is a much-loved seaside sibling in the litter of PIG hotels (see pages 52, 83, 98 and opposite) and it positively brims with charm. In addition to the usual conservatory restaurant and walled kitchen garden there are quirkily different bedrooms, including a charming shepherd’s hut with log fire and separate bathroom. There’s a happening outdoor bar with wood-fired oven, a private dining room in a cute thatched hut (complete with its own ice cream cart), and essential beach bags, mats, buckets and spades in every room. A thrilling, wildly popular hotel. For fun in the sun, look no further. NOTA BENE... The gardens roll down to three miles of golden sandy beaches, stretching all the way to the mouth of Poole’s natural harbour – the world’s second largest after Sydney, Australia. Doubles from £155 +44 (0)1929 450288; thepighotel.com

THE RECTORY HOTEL CRUDWELL, WILTSHIRE

Just inside the Cotswolds, in a village that dates back to the Domesday book, The Rectory Hotel has long been cherished as a lovely bolthole. Now, under new ownership, it’s become a truly special address. If you yearn for somewhere that mixes the best attributes of a stylish hotel together with the easy-going welcome of a friend or relative’s gorgeous country house, then this is the retreat you’ve been looking for. There’s a sitting room with log fire, bundles of newspapers and stacks of glossy magazines, plus a drawing room where guests meet for after-dinner drinks or settle down to watch a film together. In the elegant wood-panelled restaurant that faces the pretty garden, menus are old school, updated for modern tastes and unpretentiously presented. The 18 bedrooms, including three in a separate cottage, are simple, relaxing and beautifully furnished, as is the whole house. And for a change of ambiance, the owners’ own delightful pub, The Potting Shed, stands just across the road. NOTA BENE... The hotel is known for making the best Pisco Sour in the Cotswolds. Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1666 577194; therectoryhotel.com 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 67

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

RED LION FREEHOUSE EAST CHISENBURY, WILTSHIRE

A quintessential English pub, à la mode, the Red Lion continues on a roll, having launched its glamorous bedrooms and gained – and retained – a Michelin star in 2012. Best of all, it’s run with unpretentious warmth by committed owners Guy and Brittany Manning, along with their close-knit team, ‘rescue’ hens in the garden and Stowford the springer spaniel. Guy is the superb head chef, preparing wonderful dishes for the cosy pub and private dining room upstairs, often using garden produce (don’t miss the local Wiltshire truffle season, from September to December). Brittany is American – they met while working in a New York restaurant – and a talented pastry chef. She’s also responsible for Troutbeck, the converted bungalow along the lane containing five stunning bedrooms with chic furnishings, bespoke beds and Egyptian cotton linens. Each has a terrace overlooking the idyllic Wiltshire Avon, where you can fish for trout. Thatched and pretty as a picture, the Red Lion makes an exceptional bolthole in unspoilt countryside. NOTA BENE... Prince Harry and Meghan Markle have visited (not at the same time). They were both deemed ‘absolutely charming’. Doubles from £115 +44 (0)1980 671124; redlionfreehouse.com

ROSEATE VILLA BATH

Overlooking Henrietta Park in the heart of the glorious old city centre, Roseate Villa Bath is an irresistible haven, combining metropolitan and rural with every little detail in place. A baker even works through the night so guests can wake up to the aroma of freshly-baked bread, to go with the sound of birdsong. The intimate dining room is ideal for a leisurely breakfast or quintessentially British afternoon tea overlooking the park. With the monumental Abbey and worldfamous Pulteney Bridge just around the corner, it makes the perfect base for anyone eager to explore the historic city. Guests can easily stroll up to the high street and smaller cobbled streets lined with boutique shops and cafés. After a day’s exploring, they’ll return to a cosy evening at the Villa where they can recount their adventures and rest for the night. Finally, what could be better than curling up under cloud-like duvets, in soothing, sympathetically-designed rooms, for a peaceful night’s sleep? NOTA BENE... Helen Stratton, famous British painter and illustrator, lived here as a child. Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1225 466329; roseatehotels.com 68 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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THE WEST COUNTRY

THE ROYAL CRESCENT HOTEL & SPA BATH, SOMERSET

In the heart of beautiful Bath lies The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa, a five-star destination expertly combining first-class service and meticulous attention to detail. John Wood the Younger’s iconic 250-year-old Georgian terrace is truly magnificent and the hotel’s 45 suites and rooms, which offer unrivalled views over the hotel’s pretty herbaceous borders or the impressive Crescent lawn, are among the UK’s most memorable places to stay. There’s a choice of not one but three afternoon teas, to be taken in either the gardens or The Dower House Restaurant. Alternatively, enjoy a fabulously creative cocktail ‘flight’ in The Montagu Bar. The Spa & Bath House is another wonderfully atmospheric haven, so after unwinding with an Elemental Herbology treatment, why not relax in the Taittinger Spa Garden with a glass of rosé and a delicious lunch or afternoon tea? NOTA BENE... With its city centre location, the acre of secluded gardens behind the hotel is like stumbling on a secret oasis. On sunny days guests can have afternoon tea with birdsong or relax ‘en déshabillé’ in the private Spa garden. Doubles from £330 +44 (0)1225 823333; royalcrescent.co.uk

SUMMER LODGE EVERSHOT, DORSET

Summer Lodge not only stands in Hardy country but Thomas Hardy himself, as a local architect, enlarged this 18th-century manor for the Earl of Ilchester in 1893. Today, the gracious house is filled with beautiful fabrics and a generous profusion of patterns and objects: never has a country hotel felt more like an elegant lady, coiffed and perfumed, about to go to the ball. As for the bedrooms – oh, the comfort – they lack for nothing: there are even fleece-covered hot-water bottles to warm your bed. For connoisseurs of drink, it’s hard to beat: sommelier Eric Zwiebel’s cellar, noted for its energetic eclecticism, is stocked with well over 300 whiskies, armagnacs and cognacs, plus 1,500 wine bins, while Steven Titman’s cooking squares up perfectly, with delightful tasting menus. Theirs is a working partnership that has lasted for a splendid 15 years. There are many reasons to choose Summer Lodge, but if you are planning a celebration, from four people to 70, then look no further: they orchestrate such occasions beautifully. NOTA BENE... Set in four acres, with a boutique spa and indoor pool, the hotel is next to a 600acre deer park, perfect for walks. Doubles from £215 +44 (0)1935 482000; summerlodgehotel.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 69

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE SWAN HOTEL WELLS, SOMERSET

Hotels with memorable views are hardly lacking in Britain, but few can match the vision that awaits opposite the Swan Hotel in Wells. In England’s smallest cathedral city, the glorious 13th-century west front of Wells Cathedral – almost as wide as it is high and adorned with nearly 300 statues – directly faces the hotel. If you stay in one of the front rooms, or best of all in the huge and amazing Cathedral Suite, then the sight that greets you in the morning will stay long in your memory. Sharing that view is the divine Swan Terrace, open during summer for drinks and snacks in front of the hotel’s Georgian façade. Another al fresco café, the Walled Garden, is tucked away at the back. Inside, named after the extraordinary story (yours to discover) of the historic coaching inn, is Restaurant 15c A.D., noted for its excellent seasonal menus. View or no view, there are 50 romantic, individually designed and luxurious bedrooms. A gem. NOTA BENE... Both the city of Wells and the hotel played elegant but unlikely hosts to the cast and film of larky British comedy, Hot Fuzz (2007), directed by Edgar Wright. Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1749 836300; swanhotelwells.co.uk

THE TALBOT INN MELLS, SOMERSET

The owners of the excellent Beckford Arms (see page 60), and their third partner, Matt Greenlees, scored an immediate hit with this second atmospheric inn, in Mells, with its lovely old stone houses. The cobbled courtyard makes a charming entrance, backed by a succession of cosy dining areas – one a map room, another with a roaring fire and yet another with a bar. There’s a separate sitting room, fashioned from a 500-year-old barn, and the impressive Coach House Grill Room. Meat and fish are grilled here at weekends on a huge open fire and served at long wooden tables. There’s excellent pub grub, from dayboat-landed fish and chips to well-aged steaks. As for the eight bedrooms, they're stylish and amazing value, with the extra touches you’d expect from The Beckford Arms, such as superb beds, rain showers and hot water bottles. Explore the village and its exceptional church, go horseriding, antique-hunting – or try the inn's cookery school. You'll sleep in utter peace. A gem. NOTA BENE... Neighbouring Mells Manor was purportedly procured when Jack Horner discovered the deeds in a pie, as popularised in the nursery rhyme Little Jack Horner. Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1373 812254; talbotinn.com 70 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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Now being served at 36,000 feet.

Hattingley English Sparking wine. Proud to be served on British Airways, exclusively in all first class cabins, as part of their centenary celebrations. hattingleyvalley.co.uk

#UnapologeticallyBritish

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Hampshire & the Isle of Wight Spend a weekend here and you will begin to understand why local literary heroes Jane Austen and Charles Dickens werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t short of inspiration. Cross The Solent for a slice of island life

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Mark Cornick, Abstract Seaweed Patterns. Bembridge, Isle of Wight Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 12 (AA Publishing, Â£25)

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Freshwater Bay, Isle of Wight

Seafood galore at The Little Gloster

Hidden Hampshire With over one third of land designated as a national park or Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, have-it-all Hampshire is just the ticket for tired townies

ownton Abbey, New Forest ponies, clear chalk streams and a worldfamous cathedral town – Hampshire has got it all. The birthplace of modern fly-fishing, windsurfing and birdwatching, its southern coast – stretching over 230 miles – offers something for all speeds of heart rate. Its bustling port towns contrast with rolling rurality, including two national parks and the tourist-attracting label of being the birthplace of literary geniuses like Jane Austen and Charles Dickens, as well as the home of Florence Nightingale. On a good day, the Isle of Wight could be confused for the South of France. Its mix of laid-back beach restaurants and fresh coastal air will set even the most stressed out townies straight. And it won’t take visitors long to understand why the island’s motto is, ‘All this beauty is of God’. One of its many draws is the Isle of Wight Festival in June, where Jimi Hendrix, The Who and The Doors made it Europe’s answer to Woodstock, but if you are after peace and quiet, make for one of the many beaches, like Compton Bay, where you can follow in the fossilised footprints of dinosaurs, visible at low tide on Hanover Point. Whether your idea of a restful weekend away is a day spent beneath a parasol on the beach or trailing around town, Hampshire offers it all – without having to get on a plane.

Chawton, Jane Austen’s house

SEE

Nurture budding literary talent with a visit to Chawton House Museum, where Jane Austen penned Pride and Prejudice. Her beautiful cottage is the pride of Hampshire and can’t fail to strike up inspiration. hawtonhouse.org A word used only on the Isle of Wight and in Dorset, ‘chine’ is a narrow ravine with water running down to the sea. The Isle of Wight’s oldest tourist attraction, Shanklin Chine, has drawn visitors for over 200 years, determined to see the stunning tree-lined gorge for themselves. Best on a summer night, when it’s festooned with hundreds of coloured lights. Magical. shanklinchine.co.uk

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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

EAT

Long lunches don’t come better than at The Bush Inn, Ovington, where you can lap up the sun and the sound of the waves as you tuck into seasonal plates made from fresh, locally-sourced ingredients. On the banks of the River Itchen, this 17th-century pub has a delightful riverside garden, where afternoons seem to drift dreamily away. Order melt-in-your-mouth scallops with a malty pint of Wadworth IPA. thebushinn.co.uk Seafood specialist The Little Gloster has panoramic sea views to match its delicious fare. The menu, which draws on the freshest produce available on the day, is generous and inventive. Savvy diners get in touch in advance, to request a specific type of fish, and the chefs will do their very best to source and prepare it in the most delicious way. If you’re happy picking and choosing from the menu, we recommend starting with the fresh ‘Porthilly oysters three ways, with tabasco and lemon’ and a side of buttered, local kale. thelittlegloster.com

HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

Kids won’t complain about walking if it’s with an alpaca

BUY

Love a farmers’ market? Nine towns around the county host these rural foodie fests, often with added family attractions such as live music and face-painting. The stallholders are all local producers and you can sample delicious hot snacks as you stroll around, from bacon butties to buffalo burgers. hampshirefarmersmarkets.co.uk Visit ye olde Quarr Abbey, a Catholic Benedictine monastery in Ryde. Even if it’s just so you have an excuse to visit the farm shop, selling home-made chutneys, fresh apple juice, homegrown root vegetables and sweet cider made with apples from its own orchard. quarrabbey.org If you love picking out your own lobster in a restaurant, why not pick your own freshwater pearls? At Isle of Wight Pearl, which sources its precious stones directly from those who farm them, you can pick your own oyster and watch as it is opened to reveal your very own, totally unique, cultured Akoya oyster pearl – possibly more valuable than the £28 cost. iowpearl.com

Catch a musical at the Mayflower Theatre in Southampton. Dating from 1928, this venue will take you back to the golden age of theatre. This summer’s programme includes Peter Pan, Saturday Night Fever and Kinky Boots. mayflower.org.uk There’s no need to trek to the Andes to walk with alpacas. West Wight Alpacas are the experts in all alpaca-related activities; you can choose from a 20-minute alpaca stroll, perfect for children, that starts with feeding them carrots, or a 40-minute circuit if you need a longer leg stretch. westwightalpacas.co.uk Throw years of yogic tradition out of the window and take your downward dog onto a stand-up paddleboard. It’s an invigorating start to the day, a solid core workout – and great fun for anyone watching when you accidentally face plant into the water. wightwaters.com

Pick your own at Isle of Wight Pearl

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

Mayflower Theatre

W H E N

Quarr Abbey in Ryde

T O

G O

JULY

AUGUST

SEPTEMBER

Head to Smoked & Uncut, the ultimate foodie festival, held on 27 July at The Pig Hotel and Lime Wood. Top British chefs Angela Hartnett and Mark Hix rustle up grub that’s a cut above the usual festival fare. smokedanduncut.com

Everyone on the Isle of Wight has honking breath on the third weekend of August, thanks to the annual Garlic Festival. But it’s well worth forgoing smooches to try everything from garlic beer to garlic scones. garlicfestival.co.uk

Rev on up to Newport Quay and Ryde Esplanade on 14-15 September for the Charity Classic Car event, showcasing an enviable selection of vintage and contemporary cars, with funds going to charity. visitisleofwight.co.uk

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BAILIFFSCOURT CLIMPING, WEST SUSSEX

A stroll across parkland from the secluded Climping beach, Bailiffscourt is an engaging, medieval-style house created by Walter Guinness, later Lord Moyne, and his wife Evelyn. The traditional bedrooms in the house – some with four-posters – and the series of interconnecting sitting rooms, stuffed with tapestries, oak chests and Knole sofas, all feel charmingly authentic. Others among the 39 bedrooms, ranging from medieval to contemporary in style, are spread throughout a series of charming houses and cottages in the parkland; the newest, in the Moat House and The Oaks, stand beside the old moat, overlooking the fields beyond. Lawns are dotted with more medieval-style outbuildings, flowers, shrubs and peacocks, and there’s an airy spa, with indoor and outdoor pools. The name Bailiffscourt recalls the monk who was sent over by the Abbess of Séez in Normandy to act as bailiff and watch over the 13th-century chapel, which still stands in the grounds today. NOTA BENE... The hotel is actually less than 100 years old, although it has been carefully built using salvaged original medieval materials from all over the country. Doubles from £265 +44 (0)1903 723511; hshotels.co.uk

CAREYS MANOR BROCKENHURST, HAMPSHIRE

When life’s cares start to pile up, escape to this New Forest bolthole for a weekend of spoiling and relaxation. It occupies a red-brick Victorian manor in tidy gardens on the outskirts of Brockenhurst and is the sister hotel of The Montagu Arms (see page 82). The welcoming reception room has oak-panelled walls and an open fire. Seventy-seven comfortable bedrooms combine modern amenities with traditional country-house style, some with four-poster beds and others with their own patio. What really makes the hotel stand out is its award-winning Thai SenSpa, where you can be pampered with a mind-boggling range of treatments, from a gentle mud wrap to a thorough detox. As for food, there are three great options: Cambium, refined yet relaxing and celebrating all that is best about New Forest produce; Zen Garden, serving delicious, authentic Thai food; and informal French bar and bistro, Le Blaireau. NOTA BENE... During World War II, the hotel accommodated the 2nd Batallion Welsh Guards and the New Forest provided the perfect training ground for them in the leadup to the historic D-Day landings. Doubles from £179 +44 (0)1590 624467; careysmanor.com 76 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

CHEWTON GLEN NEW FOREST, HAMPSHIRE

One of the country’s finest hotels, Chewton Glen has seamlessly moved with the times since it opened over 50 years ago. The eight-bedroom house, where Captain Marryat wrote Children of the New Forest, has gradually expanded to become a 72-room bastion of luxury, with gorgeous bedrooms, lavish spa, nine-hole golf course, croquet lawn and children’s club. With an open format grill menu that ranges from light dishes to splendid silver trolleys bearing meats and cheeses, The Dining Room stretches across five delightful rooms. Complementing the main house restaurant is The Kitchen, an informal restaurant and purpose-built cookery school, in association with James Martin, that's within the 130-acre estate. Also in the grounds are seven extraordinary, tranquil Treehouses built on stilts, the most recent addition being the amazing Yews: wild luxury for a party of adults and children. After breakfast, delivered through a hatch for maximum privacy, stroll through the woods to the Solent coast. NOTA BENE... Located a short walk from the Jurassic Coast, a World Heritage Site, and on the edge of the New Forest National Park. Doubles from £325 +44 (0)1425 282212; chewtonglen.com

EAST END ARMS LYMINGTON, HAMPSHIRE

Welcome to the New Forest, 145 square miles of ancient heath and woodland, where ponies, donkeys, pigs, cattle and deer still freely roam and where the East End Arms makes the perfect affordable base. The owner is Dire Straits’ bass guitarist John Illsley. When he bought the pub in the mid-1990s, he received a letter from the regulars, saying: ‘Hands off our public bar’. ‘They wouldn’t even let me repair the hole in the ceiling and when we repainted, it had to be exactly the same colour. Fine by me,’ he says. For a plain room with locals at the bar and real ales, turn right. For some of the best food in the New Forest, in a charming dining room, enlivened by monochrome photographs of musicians and celebrities, turn left. For a comfy night, head upstairs to one of the five cute and comfortable bedrooms with their king-sized beds dressed in crisp white sheets, Nespresso machines, Mulberry fabrics and walls decorated with John’s paintings. Breakfast is spot on. NOTA BENE... It has featured in Rick Stein’s television series, Food Heroes, and been nominated a top UK pub-with-rooms. Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1590 626223; eastendarms.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 77

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL HAMPSHIRE DOGMERSFIELD, HAMPSHIRE

It’s hard to believe you are only an hour from London at the Four Seasons’ only UK country hotel. Set amid 500 acres, you can watch the hotel’s horses frolicking in paddocks from the coolly sophisticated bedrooms (including a beautiful Martin Brudnizki-designed Royal Suite). It’s easy to lose yourself in the grounds, playing croquet, clay pigeon shooting, fishing or canal boating, while children can be kept busy at the Kids’ Club or the hotel’s family adventure pool, Sharkie’s Reef, complete with a four metre slide. A large, light-filled spa occupies the original stable block, along with a 20m adult pool and outdoor vitality pool. Service is exemplary, and the food is everything you would expect from Four Seasons. Wild Carrot, the hotel’s restaurant and bar, makes the perfect setting for memorable meals. For quintessentially British afternoon tea, head for the library. Sunday lunch is a highlight, an interactive Farmers’ Market feast featuring entirely local produce. Go on, treat yourself. NOTA BENE... The Dogmersfield Park Estate, in which the hotel stands, has welcomed visitors for close to a thousand years. Doubles from £325 +44 (0)1252 853000; fourseasons.com/hampshire

THE HAMBROUGH VENTNOR, ISLE OF WIGHT

Nestled on a pretty street in the coastal town of Ventnor, The Hambrough benefits from both a village-feel location and fabulous sea views. This boutique island hotel has seven individually designed rooms; all are fresh, light and airy, some with balconies looking across the English Channel. If you are after something more private, then there is a cottage and a lovely coastal town house available to you, with original features but modern amenities. The restaurant re-opened in February with an exciting new chef at the helm. Ashley Randle’s experience of working with some of the country’s culinary masters, together with ideas from different cultures and styles, have been the inspiration behind his innovative, affordable modern European menu, which has quickly garnered a faithful following. The small, friendly staff gives a family-run feel, adding to its charm without compromising on service. A great place for a seaside escape. NOTA BENE... Sheltered by St Boniface Down to the north, Ventnor benefits from its own special micro-climate making it one of the sunniest spots in the UK. Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1983 856333; thehambrough.com 78 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

HECKFIELD PLACE HOOK, HAMPSHIRE

Like the water lilies on its two lakes that unfurl in the afternoon sun, this new country house hotel has elegantly blossomed into life. You can swim wild in the lake, walk, cycle and picnic in the woods and wander around the hotel’s own biodynamic greenhouses, market garden and farm. Inside, there’s a sense of warmth, naturalness and flop-down homeliness, with lime plaster walls in natural colours, linens, English oak floors, handcrafted furniture and matting woven from sweet-smelling River Ouse rush. Heckfield Place is artistic (fine 20th-century English pictures from the owning Chan family's private collection), literary (a library of interesting books in the Morning Room and bedrooms) and entertaining (The Assembly is its curated programme of films and events). There’s also a discreet wellness spa, and the authentic and delicious cooking of celebrated chef Skye Gyngell at the Marle and Hearth restaurants. As for the bedrooms, they are simply lovely and include six distinctive and original Signature Rooms. NOTA BENE... In the 19th century, Heckfield Place was home to Charles Shaw-Lefevre, who became Speaker of the House of Commons. Doubles from £350 +44 (0)1189 326868; heckfieldplace.com

HILLSIDE VENTNOR, ISLE OF WIGHT

‘We are wary of accolades,’ says Gert, Hillside’s Danish owner. ‘We prefer to give people happy surprises rather than expectations. We know we are only as good as the last guest who left contented.’ The 12-bedroom, two-apartment, all-white Scandinavian boutique hotel – with classic Danish furniture and CoBrA-inspired abstract paintings – offers breakfast, dinner and a wonderful night’s sleep. Hillside’s kitchen team is proud to showcase homegrown produce from its walled garden that, together with island specialities, make the restaurant’s culinary experience stand out. All bedrooms are coolly contemporary, with colourful vintage Welsh wool throws. Hillside’s past – once the home of poet John Sterling and visited by Thomas Carlyle, as well as Dickens – is charmingly displayed in photographs and documents on the walls of one of the lounges. A one-off delight, set in the delightful time warp of a Victorian seaside resort. NOTA BENE... Hillside’s coffee – a unique blend of artisan beans from El Savador – is roasted on the Isle of Wight, specially for the hotel. Doubles from £166 +44 (0)1983 852271; hillsideventnor.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 79

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE JACK RUSSELL INN FACCOMBE, ANDOVER

A place to make dog lovers prick up their ears. You can come to The Jack Russell Inn for a break without putting your four-legged friends in kennels – dogs are positively welcomed. In the capable hands of landlord Ross Nicol, helped by trusty canine companions Barnie and Betty, the hotel holds the PetsPyjamas’ award for Best DogFriendly Pub with Rooms. There are 11 to choose from, including eight in the Dog House lodge, and each is named after a different breed, from Chihuahua to Great Dane. Dog beds and bowls are provided, but it’s not compulsory to have a dog to stay here. Popular for winter shoots, the estate has year-round attractions, including great views, attractive decoration, friendly staff and excellent, seasonal, locally sourced food served in the cosy pub and airy dining room. Little luxuries such as memory foam mattresses and espresso machines raise the bar in the bedrooms, and the wonderful surrounding countryside is great for walking – with or without a dog. NOTA BENE... Eco-conscious guests will thrill to the estate’s borehole, wind turbine and wood pellet-burning biomass boiler providing heat to the pub, lodge and local community. Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1264 737315; thejackrussellinn.com

LIME WOOD LYNDHURST, HAMPSHIRE

It’s all about attention to detail at this ravishing, deeply luxurious New Forest lair. Oak doors are thick, paint finishes lush and soft floor lights switch on as you walk into the bathroom from your quietly opulent bedroom. Stylised sitting rooms melt one into another, pale lemon into lilac into sage green, each with an open fire. In the sybaritic Herb House Spa, you can do yoga on the rooftop herb garden, take in forest views from the massive sauna and eat inspired raw food in the Raw & Cured café. Lime Wood is also home to Hartnett Holder & Co – the brilliant partnership between that most grounded of celebrity chefs, Angela Hartnett, and the hotel’s own Luke Holder. Italian-influenced forest dishes and sharing plates are served in gorgeous, warmly coloured, laid-back surroundings. The glamour is there, but the stiffness of formal dining has been swept away. It’s how we want to live today, and Lime Wood perfectly captures the mood. As for their Lake Cabin: it’s one of the most romantic hideaways in the country. NOTA BENE... First opened in 2009, Lime Wood celebrates its tenth birthday in November. Doubles from £395 +44 (0)2380 287177; limewoodhotel.co.uk 80 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

THE LITTLE GLOSTER GURNARD, ISLE OF WIGHT

On a small bay overlooking the Solent is an outstanding restaurant with rooms, run with verve and passion by islander Ben Cooke and his wife Holly. Its name harks back to the prestigious, now closed, Gloster Hotel in nearby Cowes, owned by Ben’s British grandfather and Danish grandmother. Head chef as well as owner, Ben produces excellent, unfussy dishes in an open kitchen within the simple, glass-encased dining room (don’t miss the fresh fish and seafood specials, including local crab and lobster). Holly, energetic and warm, is in charge of the front of house team and the many events held in this beautiful spot, as well as the office and three bedrooms. She also makes the fresh ‘Uffa Pasta’ for their family-friendly, two- or three-course Pasta Thursdays and for their Menu of the Day, just £16.95/£20 per person (excluding Saturday evening). Scandi elegance defines the bedrooms and all three – including the stunning Garden Suite with private terrace, huge bathroom and sitting room – have wonderful sea views. NOTA BENE... Jay Rayner held his book launch for A Greedy Man in a Hungry World here, in association with Bestival. Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1983 298776; thelittlegloster.com

THE MANOR AT SWAY SWAY, HAMPSHIRE

Five years ago, young hotelier Tim Holloway and his wife Edlyn Cunill decided to swap London for the peace and quiet of the New Forest, with happy results for anyone looking for an affordable yet stylish rural bolthole. In the village of Sway, surrounded by open heath and woodland, they found The Manor, built in 1906. With the help of interior designer David Bentheim they’ve given the solid brick house a stunning makeover, its 15 beautifully coloured bedrooms decorated with prints from Audubon’s The Birds of America, an open-plan restaurant and bar and a sitting room that daringly pairs William Morris fruit wallpaper with lime green furnishings and black and white check carpets, to stunning effect. The food, elegant, fresh and seasonal, from a constantly changing menu, is excellent, as are the wines. Best of all, the hotel overlooks five acres of sloping wooded grounds, surveyed from a splendid terrace that’s perfect for outdoor dining. NOTA BENE... Captain Marryat’s classic 1836 Civil War novel, The Children of the New Forest, is set in the surroundings of Sway. Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1590 682754; themanoratsway.com 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 81

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE MONTAGU ARMS BEAULIEU, HAMPSHIRE

Combining all the attributes of a traditional country-house hotel – roaring log fires, oak panelling, pretty gardens and warm, comfortable bedrooms – with the pleasures of a picturesque village setting, The Montagu Arms makes an ideal base for a break. Browse Beaulieu’s pretty high street, take a riverside walk to Buckler’s Hard or explore the surrounding New Forest. Back in the hotel you’ll find a dark oak hall that contrasts with the bright, cream-panelled sitting room, leading in turn to a sunny conservatory and flower-filled gardens. Upstairs there are fabulous, newly refurbished bedrooms, true to the hotel’s heritage yet with contemporary colour schemes and designer fabrics. In the elegantly decorated, award-winning Terrace restaurant a treat is in store: the modern, refined cuisine of new head chef Matthew Whitfield, who uses the best of the New Forest and the hotel’s own produce to create dishes that take local provenance seriously, engage all the senses and bring an element of theatre to the table. NOTA BENE... Eminent former guests include Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Sir Henry Irving and General Charles de Gaulle. Doubles from £189 +44 (0)1590 612324; montaguarmshotel.co.uk

NEW PARK MANOR BROCKENHURST, HAMPSHIRE

The 17th and 21st centuries fuse impeccably at this New Forest hotel, part of the Luxury Family Hotels collection. The manor was Charles II’s favourite hunting lodge and still has its original fireplaces, panelling and oak leaf-patterned doors, alongside all the contemporary comforts that you – or your children – could possibly need. The 25 bedrooms are divided between the manor and a modern wing, which also houses an indoor pool and award-winning spa. While you unwind here, babies and toddlers can be cared for in the crèche (two free hours are offered daily), and older children might watch a movie at the on-site cinema or play games in the extensive gardens. For active families, there’s an outdoor pool and plenty of walks and cycle trails through the surrounding forest. Take a picnic and make a day of it. The hotel provides all sorts of equipment, from bed guards to bottle warmers, and a listening service so that parents can enjoy a stress-free, grown-up dinner in the sophisticated Stag Restaurant. NOTA BENE... New Park dates back to the time of William the Conqueror, who made the forest a royal hunting reserve in 1070. Doubles from £115 +44 (0)1590 623467; newparkmanorhotel.co.uk 82 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

NORTH HOUSE WEST COWES, ISLE OF WIGHT

It’s well worth the short, steep climb from the High Street to the top of Sun Hill and this engaging 19th-century, Grade II-listed townhouse, Cowes’ very first boutique hotel. Apart from the splendid sea views (best from some of the bedrooms), North House has been sympathetically restored and decorated with flair. Public rooms and bedrooms sport tasteful Farrow and Ball wallpaper or paint, with a nod to the nautical here and there. The 14 bedrooms come in three categories: Cosy, Comfy and Spacious, though even the ‘Cosies’ are a good size. They have everything you could want and more, including Roberts radios, hair straighteners and REN products. There’s a distinct emphasis on the fruits of the sea on the menu in the relaxed restaurant, which blends rustic and seaside chic with its scrubbed wooden furniture, white tongue-and-groove walls and photographs of boats. From March to late October, the heated outdoor pool is open and the dining terrace and cloistered garden come into their own. NOTA BENE... The high-speed passenger ferry to Southampton is ten minutes’ walk away, so you can make a dash from London in just two hours. Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1983 209453; northhousecowes.co.uk

THE PIG – AT BROCKENHURST BROCKENHURST, HAMPSHIRE

Many hotels boast kitchen gardens, but few are as central to operations as that of THE PIG. Here, it’s an imaginative edible paradise from which the chefs source much of their daily produce. Indeed, this abundant patch was the inspiration for the original concept of THE PIG and its subsequent litter of hotels in the rustic Home Grown Hotels sty (see pages 52, 66, 67 and 84). This handsome Georgian shooting lodge stands in a clearing in the New Forest, with walking, foraging and spa treatments on offer. There’s a wonderful Victorian-style conservatory dining room, glamorous bar and outdoor courtyard. Calm, countrified and deeply comfortable, the hotel’s seductive shabby chic comes in a palette of soft greens and chalky greys. Bedrooms include fun family rooms and rustic, romantic lodges tucked away in the woods. The walled garden leads to a lovely lily pond and wooden potting shed. Inside? You will be charmed. Oh, and there are pigs too. NOTA BENE... The New Forest was delineated by William the Conqueror in 1079 as a royal hunting ground for chasing deer and wild boar. Doubles from £155 +44 (0)1590 622354; thepighotel.com 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 83

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE PIG - IN THE WALL SOUTHAMPTON, HAMPSHIRE

If THE PIG in Brockenhurst (see page 83) is the country mouse, then this is its town mouse cousin, just 20 minutes away in Southampton, charmingly embraced by the city’s defensive walls. It’s gorgeous, affordable and makes a great choice for a hassle-free short break, easily reached by train. Hole up in one of its faultless shabby chic bedrooms with their retro radios, telephones and alarm clocks, rain showers and roll-top baths, superb beds, well-stocked fridge ‘larders’, bare floorboards, painted wood ceilings and pretty fabrics. In the morning, linger over pastries, cold meats, boil-your-own eggs and the morning papers in the Edwardian country style kitchen-cum-parlour. For lunch you can graze from the inviting deli counter, which acts as reception too. Later you can do some damage in the West Quay shopping centre and then, at cocktail hour, jump into the hotel’s Land Rover for a free ride home to dinner at THE PIG. Back at The Wall for the night, you’ll be as happy as pigs in – er – manure. NOTA BENE... The city’s imposing stone walls were built in the early 13th century to protect it from French invasion. Doubles from £135 +44 (0)2380 636900; thepighotel.com

THE WELLINGTON ARMS BAUGHURST, HAMPSHIRE

There’s something pretty special about The Welly. It’s a real foodies’ pub, owned and run with great charm by Simon Page (front of house) and Jason King (award-winning chef). Set in countryside on the Hampshire/Berkshire border, it has a prolific kitchen garden and a field where hens, bees, sheep, geese and pigs are kept. The dining room – there are just 12 highly prized tables – is delightfully informal. Jason uses homegrown ingredients in most of his carefully prepared, country-style dishes. There are four bedrooms: the Apartment is a one-bedroom suite above the pub; there are two striking guest rooms tucked away in a converted 17th-century oak-framed, brick and timber hay store; and the Cart House is a green oak barn. They have all the extras, from rain showers with Malin+Goetz products to Nespresso coffee machines and excellent beds dressed in top quality linen. Breakfast is a feast, with eggs straight from their hens and divine tea cosies knitted by Simon’s mum. Who could ask for more? NOTA BENE... The inn is thought to have originated as the Duke of Wellington’s hunting lodge on the edge of his Stratfield Saye estate. Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1189 820110; thewellingtonarms.com 84 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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The Home Counties Despite being prime commuter-belt territory, there’s no whiff of suburban staleness here. In fact there’s so much going on that its residents routinely look for excuses not to hop on that train

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Sue MacCallum-Stewart, Sand, Light and Shadow. Folkestone, Kent Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 12 (AA Publishing, Â£25)

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Roll into rural Sussex

Eat rabbit at Orwell’s

Blissfully Bucolic It’s clear why everyone wants to have a home in the Home Counties

See the Channel from Leith Hill Tower

or the best of both worlds, it’s got to be the Home Counties. Blissfully bucolic but just a short ride from buzzy London, it’s no wonder this is prime commuter territory for savvy city workers who are country mice at heart. With a mix of chocolate box villages, majestic rolling hills, bohemian coastal towns, National Trust properties (Buckinghamshire has more than any other UK county) and a thriving arts scene, the Home Counties are a dream. Each county has its own distinctive character, pace and history, but what they share is a knack for the good life – think roaring log fires, country sports and cosy village pubs in winter, with local gin, days at the golf club and Theresa May-style George Clooney runs through fields of wheat come summer (she lives in Sonning). From historic Windsor Castle and Hampton Court to the dramatic South Downs, the Home Counties have got pulling power, drawing everyone from Virginia Woolf and Roald Dahl to George Clooney, who now calls it home. Even the Scientologist community has settled in East Grinstead, thanks to its famed ley lines.

SEE

Climb to the top of Leith Hill Tower for views from south-east England’s second highest point. On a clear day, you can see the boats on the English Channel to the south and Big Ben to the north. nationaltrust.org.uk The so-called desert of England, Dungeness is home to one third of Britain’s plant species, two nuclear power stations and some abandoned railway carriages. Eerily post-apocalyptic. Tracey Emin’s home town of Margate is a must. Spend a day browsing the Turner Contemporary art gallery on the seafront. turnercontemporary.org

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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; REX FEATURES

EAT

Join one of Nomadic’s legendary immersive woodland feasts, which see around 20 diners head to an undisclosed Buckinghamshire location for a menu of wild, foraged ingredients, open flame cooking and a night to remember. experiencenomadic.com Few do elevated country dining better than Ryan Simpson and Liam Trotman at Orwell’s, a still relatively-hidden gem of a restaurant a few fields away from Henley-on-Thames. It’s a favourite of George Clooney and Pierre Koffman. orwellsrestaurant.com Expect a surge in visitors to the market town of Dorking now that Steve Drake’s restaurant Sorrel has been awarded its first Michelin star. Book in quickly to experience the exciting Discovery Menu for yourself and thank us later. sorrelrestaurant.co.uk

THE HOME COUNTIES

Discover dramatic Dungeness

BUY

Forget Kentish cider – English sparkling wine is the discerning drinker’s bubbly of choice. Visit Nyetimber in West Sussex for an in-depth tour of England’s oldest vines and an insight into how their world-famous sparkler is made before picking up a few bottles to take home. nyetimber.com Uncover some pre-loved treasures at Lewes Flea Market, open 363 days a year and packed to the rafters with antique furniture and boho homewares. The Needlemakers on West Street is also worth exploring for its local crafts and independent shops – just don’t forget to throw a penny in the well for luck first. flea-markets.co.uk Pick up some tasty artisan charcuterie at Beal’s Farm, made from the heritage rare breed Mangalitsa pig and winner of multiple British Charcuterie Awards. Lip-smackingly good. bealsfarmcharcuterie.com

Forage with Fergus

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; REX FEATURES

Make time for Margate

Be guided by llamas

W H E N

The best guide for exploring the Surrey Hills? A llama, of course. The Merry Harriers Inn organises treks along the local trails of the Greensand Way, led by their very own llamas – who carry hampers and champagne for an unforgettable picnic. merryharriers.com Join Fergus Drennan for a day of foraging in Kent followed by an edible feast of your finds. The wild food experimentalist and educator has been running day courses for almost twenty years, focusing on edible plants, seaweed, fungi and preservation techniques. fergustheforager.co.uk

T O

G O

SPRING

JUNE

SEPTEMBER

Keep your eyes open for fairies – in spring the landscape comes alive with bluebells, and the newly-earmarked loop trail to Mariners Hill from Chartwell makes for a charming stroll through the blue. nationaltrust.org

A favourite of her Maj, racegoers flock from far and wide every year to Royal Ascot. The ultimate place to see and be seen, the peoplewatching is as entertaining as the racing. Hats at the ready! ascot.co.uk

An annual celebration of the great outdoors and all it offers, the activitypacked Into the Trees festival is set in Ashdown Forest and perfect for outdoorsy families. A fun way to reconnect with nature. into-the-trees.co.uk

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

ALBION HOUSE RAMSGATE, KENT

The advent of Albion House is a story of triumph over adversity, and hope over experience – or rather inexperience. Arguably the most beautiful of all Ramsgate’s collection of Georgian and Regency buildings, it was rescued from neglect and is now a successful business run by Ben and Emma Irvine, who created a retro-chic boutique hotel and restaurant from its shell. Neither had any experience of hotel keeping but sheer hard work, determination, good humour and bravery have seen them through, triumphantly. Albion House, which was the subject of an episode of Alex Polizzi’s The Hotel Inspector while it was being transformed, is now the stand-out place to stay in this fascinating yet often overlooked town, and a perfect weekend getaway. There’s a huge, stylish cocktail bar, characterful restaurant, Townley’s, serving uncomplicated seasonal, locally sourced dishes, and elegant bedrooms, some with breathtaking views across the Royal Harbour. A triumph for Ben and Emma and a great address for us. NOTA BENE... The restaurant/bar is named after Mary Townley, the first prominent British female architect, who once lived here. Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1843 606630; albionhouseramsgate.co.uk

ARTIST RESIDENCE BRIGHTON, EAST SUSSEX

The story of the Artist Residence group began ten years ago when Justin and Charlotte Salisbury first met as students. Justin’s mum, who’d just bought a Brighton guesthouse in need of renovation, was seriously injured in an accident and 20-year-old Justin stepped in. Having no idea how to tackle the redecoration, he filled the listed townhouse with artists and gave them a free hand. And so the couple’s first Artist Residence, successful and buzzy, was born. It was soon joined by three more, in Penzance (see page 44), Pimlico (see page 106) and Oxford (see opposite). The Brighton original has sea views and retro-style bedrooms ranging from tiny crash pads to a huge suite. Two new art bedrooms designed by Ben Eine and Pure Evil have just been unveiled, while artists Maria Rivans, Charlie Anderson, Fox Fisher and Jessica Albarn have designed four other fabulous rooms. There’s the sparky Fix Bar for drinks and, in the Set Restaurant next door, Dan Kenny serves an inventive menu of hearty seasonal dishes. NOTA BENE... Often spotted on Channel Five re-runs of The Hotel Inspector, it’s riveting to see how the hotel has been transformed since then. Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1273 324302; artistresidence.co.uk 90 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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THE HOME COUNTIES

ARTIST RESIDENCE SOUTH LEIGH, OXFORDSHIRE

When it opened in 2017 this was a new departure for the burgeoning Artist Residence group of funky, art-themed hotels that have sprung up courtesy of enterprising owners Justin and Charlie Salisbury. This energetic couple, complete with new baby, headed out of town for leafy Oxfordshire and took on the Mason Arms, a well-loved local inn, stamping it with their inimitable look. There are now five stunning bedrooms upstairs and a further three in the stables and outbuildings, plus a cool shepherd’s hut and converted horsebox in the garden. Original features have been retained and restored, auction houses and reclamation yards scoured and modern art set against William Morris wallpaper. The restaurant features art by the Connor Brothers, Ben Eine and Lucy Sparrow. The kitchen produces hearty and rustic British food in a fun and friendly setting. If you’ve fallen for an Artist Residence in Penzance (see page 44), Pimlico (see page 106) or Brighton (see opposite), then this is your country hideaway. NOTA BENE... Under previous landlord Gerry Stonhill it was a controversial hangout for the likes of Marco Pierre White and Raymond Blanc. Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1993 656220; artistresidence.co.uk

BEAVERBROOK LEATHERHEAD, SURREY

Beaverbrook, a fabulous addition to Britain’s crop of must-go country house hotels, opened two years ago. We’ve been, we’ve seen, we’ve stayed, we’ve played (several times) and it’s fabulous. Originally Cherkley Court, the former mansion of Lord Beaverbrook has weekenders falling over themselves to revel in the 19th-century wedding cake architecture and Susie Atkinson interiors: grand yet homely, romantic, floral and fun – and underpinned by historical photographs of the newspaper magnate and his famous visitors. There’s Japanese cuisine in the Dining Room, stunning views across formal gardens, a 470-acre woodland estate including a treehouse for the Kid’s Club, and the separate brick and flint Garden House, offering a bar, Anglo-Italian restaurant, cookery school and 11 bedrooms, bringing the total to 35. The crowning glory is the new holistic Coach House Health Club & Spa, designed by stained glass artist Brian Clarke, with bespoke skin products and treatments. All this so close to London, in the heart of the Surrey hills. NOTA BENE... Frequent guests of Lord Beaverbrook included Elizabeth Taylor, Charlie Chaplin, Rudyard Kipling and Ian Fleming. Doubles from £280 +44 (0)1372 571300; beaverbrook.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 91

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE CAT INN WEST HOATHLY, WEST SUSSEX

A spell at the Cat will leave you purring with contentment. With its regulars chatting at the bar, its blazing fire in the huge inglenook, its hops, pewter and mix of airy and cosy dining areas, this early 16th-century, timber-framed village inn exudes character and bonhomie. One of our greatest gastropubs, its landlord Andrew Russell, previously GM at nearby Gravetye Manor (see page 94), mixes professionalism with a natural flair for people. As for the food, from chef Alex Jacquemin, there’s no trumpeting and no fuss and, as a result, its superb quality is all the more delightful. ‘I recommend the pie and chips,’ says Andrew. And what a steak, mushroom and ale pie it is. Leave space for a homemade pud too. Upstairs there are four attractive, luxurious, well-equipped bedrooms, one very large, another with a view of the pretty church. In the morning, after a sophisticated breakfast worthy of Gravetye, follow the path through the churchyard for a spectacular view across the valley. NOTA BENE... Take a tour of the many stunning gardens and houses you can visit in the beautiful Sussex Weald – Ashdown Forest and numerous vineyards are on the doorstep. Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1342 810369; catinn.co.uk

CLIVEDEN HOUSE TAPLOW, BERKSHIRE

Can any other grand country house hotel match Cliveden? Set high above the Thames, in 376 acres of National Trust-owned land, this stately home was built in 1666 for the second Duke of Buckingham and became home to the Astor family in 1893. Today it is under the same ownership as Chewton Glen (see page 77) and The Lygon Arms (see page 131) and its recent restoration has left it looking quite ravishing. The 47 bedrooms range from spectacular suites to deluxe doubles and include four with their own hot tubs. As for food, the choice includes gourmet dishes in the amazing Cliveden Dining Room or a more informal menu at the Astor Grill, both courtesy of talented executive head chef, Paul O’Neill. 2017’s unveiling of the fabulous new spa added the final layer of icing to this very celebratory cake. Cliveden was built for entertaining and no one, from Churchill to Chaplin, could resist an invitation. Nor should you. NOTA BENE... Since George I, Cliveden has welcomed members of the royal family. Most recently, the Duchess of Sussex stayed here the night before her wedding. Doubles from £445 +44 (0)1628 607107; clivedenhouse.co.uk 92 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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THE HOME COUNTIES

COWORTH PARK ASCOT, BERKSHIRE

Just 45 minutes by car from central London lies The Dorchester’s bucolic cousin, a creamycoloured, 18th-century country house set within acres of immaculate parkland. The hotel has its own stables and polo fields, and a wildflower meadow. The gorgeous spa offers a plethora of massage techniques with brands such as Carol Joy London and ishga Organic. Retreat to one of the sumptuously light and airy suites, decorated in colour schemes that reflect the landscape, with swathes of cashmere, mohair and wool in natural pigments. Foodies are spoilt – in the main restaurant, executive chef Adam Smith has garnered a Michelin star and serves up best-of-British ingredients, while The Barn offers more laid-back rustic dining and The Spatisserie is a perfect, airy spa restaurant. Children are encouraged: there is a private kids’ club, including a teen den, and plenty of outdoor activities such as mini-Olympics. NOTA BENE... The only UK hotel with two professional polo fields, it’s a unique chance to enjoy this ancient Persian – now quintessentially English aristo – team sport. Doubles from £405 +44 (0)1344 876600; dorchestercollection.com

CRAB & LOBSTER SIDLESHAM, WEST SUSSEX

A place for all seasons, this delightful 350-year-old hideaway and sibling of Halfway Bridge (see page 95) is stunningly located at Sidlesham Quay, a grassy expanse on the banks of Pagham Harbour nature reserve, once occupied by a tidal mill. Its views stretch to the distant sea across salt marsh and woodland, with a tracery of creeks. The four attractive, comfortable bedrooms in the renovated 16th-century pub, plus the two-bedroom Crab Cottage next door, are all decorated with stylish simplicity in restful shades. In the top-floor eyrie, there are binoculars for a closer look at that remarkable view, and plenty of extras in all the rooms, from fridges to fresh flowers. Downstairs you’ll find slate floors, cream-painted and bare brick walls, smart contemporary furniture and an open fire. And dishes that are just right for the location: perhaps baked devilled Selsey crab, pak choi, new potatoes, lemongrass and spring onion salsa, paired with a crisp white wine – perfect. NOTA BENE... Pagham Harbour is a beautiful RSPB reserve, its wetlands teeming with wildlife. Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1243 641233; crab-lobster.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 93

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE GALLIVANT RYE, EAST SUSSEX

Don’t you love the name? The dictionary informs us that ‘to gallivant’ is ‘to wander about, seeking pleasure’ and indeed, this place started life in the 1960s as the Blue Dolphin Motel, when it no doubt saw its fair share of gallivants and their girls. It’s still immediately identifiable as a motel (so are some of California’s coolest hotels, so why not here?), but in its current incarnation it’s also chic, seaside fresh, buzzy and fun (with sustainable credentials). The relaxed and airy restaurant, with a Nordic/New England vibe, takes centre stage with modern British cooking that ticks all boxes. As for the 20 bedrooms, they are pleasingly calm havens with wonderful beds dressed with the finest linens. For pampering, there’s the Beach Hut treatment room in the garden, but best of all is that Camber Sands, that extraordinary expanse of dunes and beach, is directly over the road, and charming Rye is just a five-minute drive. NOTA BENE... In 1990 The Face famously put a young Kate Moss on its cover, with a careerlaunching photo by Corinne Day that was taken on the beach right in front of the hotel. Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1797 225057; thegallivant.co.uk

GRAVETYE MANOR WEST HOATHLY, WEST SUSSEX

It was just over 60 years ago, in 1958, that Peter Herbert opened this Elizabethan manor and its famous gardens as a hotel. A classic of its kind, it’s now in the caring hands of Jeremy and Elizabeth Hosking, who have kept its integrity intact while beautifully renovating and subtly modernising. Today’s furnishings look elegant, fresh and attractive, but the feel remains the same: the unhurried calm, the polite but chatty staff, the profusion of naturally-arranged flowers, and the smell of linseed oil and wood smoke from great open hearths. Andrew Thomason is the consummate general manager, while George Blogg’s Michelin-starred food, served in the stunning, glass-fronted dining room, is an accomplished delight. Best of all, the gardens have been restored to their former glory, thanks to a dedicated team headed by Tom Coward. They are quite wonderful and transform lunch on the terrace into an unforgettable treat. NOTA BENE... The garden at Gravetye, spanning 35 acres, was originally created by visionary gardener William Robinson in 1885 and is now considered one of the most important historic gardens in England. Doubles from £295 +44 (0)1342 810567; gravetyemanor.co.uk 94 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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THE HOME COUNTIES

THE HALFWAY BRIDGE LODSWORTH, WEST SUSSEX

If you love the Crab & Lobster at Sidlesham (and who doesn’t?), then make tracks for its younger sibling. Near Petworth, it stands back from the graceful, swooping A272, the only road we know to have had a book written about it: Ode to a Road. Like the Crab & Lobster (see page 93), the 250-year-old old inn has been immaculately restored by owners Sam and Janet Bakose, with seven exceptional bedrooms fashioned from a beamed stable block that overlooks a sunny lawn, with woods (watch out for deer) to the rear. The three standard rooms are just as alluring as the more expensive ones, of which No. 5 is particularly lovely, with its part-timber, part-brick back wall. Back at the handsome inn, superior pub grub is served in a choice of intimate nooks that circle the central bar, with exposed brick walls, newly-revealed parquet floors, open fires and woodburners. Put simply, Sam and Janet have what it takes: good taste mixed with warmth, common sense and an assured, professional touch. NOTA BENE... This lovely old inn was once a watermill and is situated in the beautiful South Downs National Park. Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1798 861281; halfwaybridge.co.uk

HARTWELL HOUSE VALE OF AYLESBURY, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

One of the great pleasures of visiting hotels is that they’re often very special buildings to which ordinary mortals would never normally have access. One shining example is Hartwell House, a Grade I-listed stately home that was occupied from 1809 to 1814 by the exiled Louis XVIII. Inside, there are beautiful rooms with rococo ceilings, antique furniture and paintings and an extraordinary Jacobean staircase, lined with statues of the knights of Europe guarding the way. The king’s wife, Marie Joséphine of Savoie, had them removed because their candlelit shadows frightened her. If you think all this grandeur means pomp and ceremony, worry not. As with fellow National Trust Historic House Hotels, Bodysgallen Hall (see page 182) and Middlethorpe Hall (see page 172), the hospitality is natural and easy-going, the bedrooms as comfortable as they are grand and the food as delicious as you would expect. And the hotel’s spa is a classically-themed delight. NOTA BENE... The Great Hall is a masterpiece of English baroque design by James Gibbs, virtually unchanged since its completion in 1740, with a stunning ceiling and fireplace. Doubles from £250 +44 (0)1296 747444; hartwell-house.com 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 95

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

HURLEY HOUSE HURLEY, BERKSHIRE

It’s the friendly, laid-back atmosphere of this boutique hotel, not at all at odds with its immaculate and stylish decoration, that impresses as soon as you enter. A sensitive new build of 2016, it stands on the site of an old inn just outside the pretty riverside village of Hurley, within easy reach of the capital and with perfect terraces for outdoor dining. Inside, the ten country-chic bedrooms in shades of pale grey are spotless, but with a cosy feel, enhanced by floorboards, beams, blankets and fresh flowers. All abound with little luxuries, while some have freestanding roll-top baths, and one Superior Room has its own patio. But what really makes Hurley House tick is the superb cooking, with a menu that features the freshest ingredients from Berkshire’s best producers as well as seafood brought in daily from Brixham in Devon. You can eat in the rustic bar or in the more formal restaurant, each done up in granite, leather, oak and natural brick. NOTA BENE... Sir Michael Parkinson, Sir Tom Jones, Mary Berry and Tim Henman have all been enticed by the excellent food here. Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1628 568500; hurleyhouse.co.uk

THE MILK HOUSE SISSINGHURST, KENT

A great Kent address. Perfect for visiting Vita Sackville-West’s famous garden at Sissinghurst, it’s a brilliant bolthole for Londoners, with superb food, delicious bedrooms, a lovely terrace and garden, as well as prices you can afford. The Milk House recalls Sissinghurst’s former name, Mylkehouse Street, changed after a local 19th-century smuggling gang brought it unwanted notoriety. Owners Sarah and Dane Allchorne have gone for the dairy angle: paintwork in creamy white and the palest mossy green; bedrooms called Dairy, Churn, Byre, Buttery – and Udderly Private. The all-day dining pub looks cool and sophisticated, with a great buzz, and the menu ranges from the imaginative to the familiar, with the best of pub grub. The Grazing Menu for outdoor dining on the terrace or in the garden is great too, with its Hopper Hut bar. Staff are young and frisky: Sarah and Dane have created a very contented cow. There’s regular live music and an annual summertime Milk Fest, with music and food. NOTA BENE... There’s so much to explore locally in Kent’s ‘Garden of England’, from National Trust properties to family-friendly beaches. Doubles from £90 +44 (0)1580 720200; themilkhouse.co.uk 96 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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THE HOME COUNTIES

OCKENDEN MANOR CUCKFIELD, WEST SUSSEX

You get the best of both worlds at Ockenden. If you prefer reassuring, traditional comfort, look no further than this charming Elizabethan manor house. If you want slick, sophisticated modernity, that’s yours too. As well as the elegant drawing room, there’s an oak-panelled bar, the Burrell Room for private dining, with its original Tudor ceiling, and an airy restaurant where Stephen Crane serves some of the finest food in the Sussex. There are 28 bedrooms, many full of character with original panelling and four-posters, others fresh and pretty. And then there’s the spa, utterly modern on the outside, airy and natural inside, with indoor/ outdoor pool, hot tub and Jacuzzi, walk-through rain shower, steam room, sauna, gym, sun deck, guest lounge and café. As for the six knockout, first-floor bedrooms, they pack a thoroughly modern punch, with shutters in the bathrooms that open onto the bedrooms, that in turn open onto a roof garden with marvellous views across West Sussex to the South Downs. NOTA BENE... Ockenden Manor’s wine list boasts over 25 English wines, many of them from vineyards right on the doorstep in Sussex. Doubles from £189 +44 (0)1444 416111; hshotels.co.uk

PARK HOUSE, HOTEL & SPA BEPTON, NR MIDHURST, WEST SUSSEX

Owned by the O’Brien family for over 70 years, Park House has all the graciousness, tranquillity and atmosphere of a privileged family home, where children and dogs are welcome. There’s a wall plastered with family photos and celebrated past guests, and the clink of china teacups in the garden. Considerably enhanced in recent years, there are 12 bedrooms in the main house plus a further nine in three adjacent cottages, which look down onto a leisurely, almost Edwardian scene: a flower-covered pergola, two lawn tennis courts, a croquet lawn, testing six-hole 18-tee golf course and emerald putting green, all perfectly maintained. Beyond the lawns are long views onto a lovely wooded section of the South Downs, with not another house in sight. Add a sleek spa with indoor and outdoor pools and fine food in the elegant dining room, and Park House, perfectly placed for Chichester and the Sussex Downs, is hard to beat. NOTA BENE... The spa has introduced four new wellness therapies from leading skincare specialist Germaine de Capuccini for pre-, during and post-intensive medical treatment. Doubles from £165 +44 (0)1730 819000; parkhousehotel.com 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 97

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE PHEASANT INN SHEFFORD WOODLANDS, BERKSHIRE

Looking for a stylish yet cosy bolthole that’s easy to reach from town? Here it is. Opened three years ago by charming young Jack Greenall, The Pheasant ticks all boxes. Though just moments from the M4, the old drovers’ inn stands alone and feels properly rural, with uninterrupted views across the Berkshire Downs. Inside, thanks to the spot-on taste of Jack and interior designer Flora Soames, it’s smart and sophisticated yet also intimate and warm in its racing green and red (the inn is much frequented by trainers and jockeys) with plenty of quiet, comfy corners despite the constant buzz at the bar. Upstairs, 11 immaculate, spoiling, incredibly good value bedrooms, full of thoughtful extras. As for chef Andy Watts’ superior pub grub, it’s spot on too: Scotch eggs like you’ve never tasted before, chateaubriand of Wiltshire beef to share and fabulous puddings. Jack has a hit on his hands, but he doesn’t stand still: now there’s a gorgeous new private dining room designed by Octavia Dickinson, already popular with shooting parties. NOTA BENE... The Pheasant is close to the famous Valley of the Racehorse and its characters can often be spotted enjoying a well-earned pint. Doubles from £115 +44 (0)1488 648284; thepheasant-inn.co.uk

THE PIG – AT BRIDGE PLACE CANTERBURY, KENT

Every Pig in this magnificent litter has its own personality and the sixth, which opened this May, has a rock ’n‘ roll vibe that’s immediately evident. The 29-bedroom, Grade II*-listed, Queen Anne manor house, set in the Nailbourne valley outside Canterbury, sports a handsome red-brick façade and ornate Jacobean interior, yet it also has a colourful recent past. The likes of Eric Clapton and Pink Floyd have gigged and partied here and now it’s your turn to have a ball, amid a wealth of period features, secret stairways, panelled rooms and endless nooks and crannies, all brought to life by Home Grown Hotels’ CEO Robin Hutson and his renowned designer wife Judy, with her eye for effortless, laid-back chic. As with every other Pig, the kitchen garden and restaurant are the beating heart of the revitalised property. If you’ve pigged out on the others, this new trough is pure clover: you’ll be seduced, charmed and ready to party, all at the same time. NOTA BENE... For four decades the house was shaken to its ancient rafters by Kent’s wildest rock ’n‘ roll parties, including epic 1970s sets by Led Zeppelin, the Kinks and The Yardbirds. Doubles from £145 + 44 (0)3452 259494; thepighotel.com 98 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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THE HOME COUNTIES

THE ROSEATE READING READING, BERKSHIRE

It’s certainly a first for a hotel in Reading to be described as the ‘UK’s sexiest townhouse’ but that’s the accolade the Evening Standard has bestowed on The Roseate Reading. Built in 1911 in grand Queen Anne style as the Shire Hall for Berkshire County Council, it's now an opulent repository of good living, where the tone is set by a chandelier made from 86,000 Italian glass beads that cascade down from the top of the building. There’s specially commissioned art and sculpture throughout, huge arrangements of flowers, bold colours, dramatic fabrics and wallpapers. With a contemporary restaurant, Cerise, a glamorous Cocktail Bar and a brand new luxury spa, you will find everything you need to relax and enjoy some peace and quiet. The signature Roseate Suite, once the council chamber, is supremely quiet, beautifully decorated and deeply romantic, with lots of delicious extras: without doubt it’s one of the country’s most memorable rooms. NOTA BENE... The rich display of art curated from around the world includes designer Nicholas Hollinshead’s apt work: ‘Minimalism is not a word in our dictionary’. Doubles from £90 +44 (0)1189 527770; roseatehotels.com

THE ROYAL OAK YATTENDON, BERKSHIRE

You’ll be greeted with a cheery welcome at this superb inn in charming Yattendon village. It’s all that a great pub should be, from the beamed ceilings to the stocky wooden bar with proper ales on tap. Beyond the main bar and dining room lies a large sitting room with deep sofas and a huge open fire. In summer the suntrap garden is the sort of place where bottles of rosé disappear with merry swiftness. Best to soak it all up with some of head chef Nick MacGregor’s excellent, unfussy, locally sourced grub. You can also eat and drink in the fabulous new glass-fronted orangery, whose bi-fold doors overlook the garden. Its centrepiece is a stunning open kitchen, with a four-tiered rotisserie, Argentine parrilla grill and pizza oven. After a day of indulgence, where better to rest your sleepy head than in one of the ten light, airy bedrooms? A king-size bed beckons, prettily dolled up in the finest linens and with soft pillows. NOTA BENE... The Duchess of Cambridge’s family is often seen here. Doubles from £99 +44 (0)1635 201325; royaloakyattendon.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 99

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

SOPWELL HOUSE ST ALBANS, HERTFORDSHIRE

Sopwell House is a historic Georgian country retreat that feels worlds away from the hustle and bustle of the city, yet is within surprisingly easy reach of the capital. After just an hour’s drive from central London or 20 minutes’ train journey, you can be sipping a cocktail on the terrace, being pampered with Elemis or ESPA oils in the fabulous spa, savouring a buffet lunch in the Brasserie or dining on a seasonal dish from the contemporary Restaurant. Sopwell House has a bright and modern style, its rooms filled with eclectic artwork, including animal giclée prints by artist Dan Hillier. There’s a tempting choice of rooms and suites to suit all budgets; most spoiling are the gated Mews Suites, set apart from the rest of the hotel in an oasis of beautifully-landscaped gardens and with a shared hydropool. NOTA BENE... Sopwell House was leased to Prince Louis of Battenberg in 1900, whose daughter married Prince Andrew of Greece; their son is Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh. Doubles from £154 +44 (0)1727 864477; sopwellhouse.co.uk

THE SPREAD EAGLE MIDHURST, WEST SUSSEX

The Spread Eagle elegantly marries history, tradition and character with contemporary, spoiling treats. In the fine, old-fashioned dining room, earthenware pudding basins dangle from the ceiling, a tangible reminder that here, puddings are still presented to guests every Christmas as tradition dictates. Yet the same inn also sports an on-trend gin bar, with more than 100 different brands and 12 different tonics, plus garnishes from the garden. In a building that dates back to 1430 and is set in the middle of Midhurst’s historic market town, what a treat to find an impressive spa and indoor pool beneath a contemporary Scandinavian-style roof. There’s a lovely conservatory, where you can drink and dine, and the bedrooms are both chic and traditional, with crisp bathrooms. One sought-after room, the Queen Suite, has its own wig closet, while another has panelled walls hiding a secret passage reputedly used by fleeing smugglers. And so past and present are perfectly united. NOTA BENE... The hotel has a prized Christmas pudding recipe that dates back decades – join them on 24 November to get the secret. Doubles from £119 +44 (0)1730 816911; hshotels.co.uk 100 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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THE HOME COUNTIES

STOKE PARK STOKE POGES, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

If you don’t know it, privately owned Stoke Park provides one delightful surprise after another. First of all, it’s a historic house, built in the 1790s by James Wyatt for soldier, scholar and poet, John Penn. Secondly, it’s set in 300 acres, including beautiful water-filled grounds designed by ‘Capability’ Brown and Humphry Repton and featuring a romantic bridge – all just 40 minutes from central London. Thirdly, it’s where the famous golf match from Goldfinger and the mini-break in Bridget Jones were filmed. Fourthly, it’s two hotels, not one: choose from splendid traditional bedrooms in the Mansion or contemporary ones in the Pavilion. Fifthly, it comes with a championship golf course, amazing tennis facilities (the pre-Wimbledon Boodles Challenge is played here annually) and a quite wonderful spa. And last but not least, the staff are very welcoming and the food is excellent. Stoke Park became Britain’s first country club in 1908; now it is open to all. NOTA BENE... Close to Pinewood Studios, Stoke Park has become a star of the silver screen in its own right, featuring in numerous films and TV series, including The Crown. Doubles from £240 +44 (0)1753 717172; stokepark.com

THE WATERSIDE INN BRAY, BERKSHIRE

For a resounding 47 years, this marvellous restaurant with rooms, owned by the celebrated Roux père et fils and run by Alain Roux, has purred contentedly beside the Thames, with its lovely waterfront terrace and an electric launch at guests’ disposal. The placid river, with the odd boat skulling by, instantly soothes, and the sense of occasion, as waiters prepare for the evening’s seamlessly orchestrated performance, reminds one of a bygone age. As well as the unashamedly haute yet delicate cuisine, which has attracted the ultimate accolade of three Michelin stars since 1985, the bedrooms and suites are beautifully kitted out: feminine and elegant in the French manner, and superbly kept under the watchful eye of general manager Frédéric Poulette. Breakfast in bed, served on crisp white linen, is no less a treat than dinner the night before. ‘Dedication and consistency,’ Michel Roux has said, ‘are the two qualities that make a great chef and a great restaurant.’ The Waterside Inn is the greatest of them all. NOTA BENE... The pretty village of Bray on Thames makes a good base to explore nearby Windsor, Ascot and Henley-on-Thames. Doubles from £275 +44 (0)1628 620691; waterside-inn.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 101

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London

There’s a reason that the Big Smoke is one of the world’s most visited cities: its sights are all instantly iconic, but it’s in the city’s fiercely individual neighbourhoods where it’s all really happening

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David Hopley, Sightseeing. Tower Bridge, London Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 12 (AA Publishing, Â£25)

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Locavore dining at Primeur

London Calling

The capital’s unmistakable skyline

This insider’s guide to the capital takes you to hidden pockets

‘ W

hen a man is tired of London, he is tired of life,’ said Samuel Johnson in the 18th century. Today, Londoners cling to his words to reassure themselves when handing over their credit card to pay for a £4 coffee. History is everywhere you look: it’s the pub that Dante Gabriel Rossetti and George Orwell frequented (Soho’s Dog and Duck), the cobbled street it stands on, and the Tube train that runs beneath it. Manifest, too, is the city’s flair for innovation – London is a culture-shaker and taste-maker, just as visible on the graffiti-covered corners of Shoreditch as in South Kensington’s noble museums. Londoners take pride in knowing the insider places – pockets of vibrant activity that can vanish as fast as they pop up. Johnson’s words still ring true, 240 years on: London is many things, but boring? Never. The Natural History Museum

The Arab Hall at Leighton House

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; © LEIGHTON HOUSE MUSEUM, IMAGE COURTESY OF WILL PRYCE

EAT

Resist the glitz and glamour of London’s white-tableclothed establishments and head east instead for a late lunch at Primeur. The converted 1930s garage opens its concertina doors on sunny days, where the only thing more appealing than the ambience is the food. Sharing plates of modern, locavore British fare and quality wines makes for a memorable evening. primeurn5.co.uk Upgrade your fish ‘n’ chips with a meal at Sweetings, London’s oldest fish and oyster restaurant, dating from 1830. From the pinstripe-clad servers to the silver tankards, there’s a nostalgic air that suggests little has changed. Order a black velvet (Guinness and champagne) with oysters and the catch of the day, soaking in the old-school atmosphere, where time seems to stand still. If it ain’t broke… sweetingsrestaurant.co.uk

SEE

Take art out of its stuffy confines and head to Leighton House in Holland Park. In the former home of leading Victorian artist Lord Leighton, 16th-century Middle Eastern glazed tiles, opulent furnishings and marble colonnades make for an unusual but splendid backdrop to the museum’s famed artworks. rbkc.gov.uk Shadow boxes, kaleidoscopes and micro-puzzles galore! Children will delight in the classic eccentricities that line the shelves at Benjamin Pollock’s Toyshop. pollocks-coventgarden.co.uk Cricket is now a global sport, but it was invented England in the 17th century; the impressive Lord’s ground in St John’s Wood is considered its hallowed true home. lords.org

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LONDON

The Thames Path offers a leafier view of London

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; © LEIGHTON HOUSE MUSEUM, IMAGE COURTESY OF WILL PRYCE

BUY

For a notoriously rainy city, there’s no London souvenir that’s as appropriate as a handcrafted umbrella from James Smith & Sons. Established in 1830, the charmingly traditional Bloomsbury store is positively brimming with English-made canes and umbrellas. james-smith.co.uk London is a city of convenience stores but Leila’s Shop in Spitalfields is exceptional. You’ll find crates of clementines, giant bowls of baby artichokes, netted bags of potatoes and tins of maple syrup piled high. A go-to for chefs, Leila’s one-ups your usual local. An antiquarian bookshop with a difference, Second Shelf in Piccadilly is dedicated to re-evaluating rare books by women. Alongside 3,000 titles of first edition Penguin paperbacks and a copy of Sense & Sensibility that belonged to Jane Austen’s best friend, you’ll happen upon literary ephemera like Sylvia Plath’s scarlet-red wallet. thesecondshelf.com

James Smith & Sons: best for brollies

Marvellous Maltby Street Market in south London

Lord’s is the true home of cricket

W H E N

Bypass the West End in favour of a show at Wilton’s Music Hall in E1. The mid-19th century concert room is thought to be where the cancan was first performed in the UK and the dimly-lit, vintage space still hosts events that range from silent movies and Cockney sing-alongs to burlesque and pantomime. wiltons.org.uk Don your walking boots to see a softer side to the city’s stone, glass and concrete. The Thames Path stretches 184 miles along the river, from the heart of London to its source in the Cotswolds. nationaltrail.co.uk For all its fancy restaurants, some of London’s best culinary offerings are at its food markets. Maltby Street is one of the most unassuming and the Dhan waffles are a crowd-pleaser. maltby.st

T O

G O

FEBRUARY

JULY

SUMMER

A cure to the winter blues, Kew Gardens’ annual Orchid Festival is an injection of colour. Each year, from February to March, orchids blossom from every nook and cranny in the Princess of Wales Conservatory. kew.org

ONBlackheath is on the tamer side of UK music festivals – but that’s not to say it’s not a great day out. Headliners are recognisable and appropriate for all ages. Don’t miss the pop-up science museum. onblackheath.com

Running since 1769, the Royal Academy’s Summer Exhibition is the world’s largest open submission art show. It’s a chance to peep into the exciting world of current art – and even bag a future masterpiece. royalacademy.org.uk

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

11 CADOGAN GARDENS CHELSEA, SW3

Discreet on the outside, dramatic and decadent within, this distinctive Chelsea hotel is formed of four townhouses, with so many corridors and staircases it’s not unusual to find guests wandering in search of their rooms. A member of staff will always be on hand to help, though – the service is exceptional, with concierge Richie Long capable of miracles. The entrance has a sense of theatre with its leather and dark wood panelling, mirrored wall and low lighting. The drama continues up the portrait-lined staircase to 56 individually-decorated bedrooms and suites, some opulent and jewel-coloured, others elegant and feminine. The hotel still has the exclusive feel of the private members’ club it once was, with several sitting rooms to relax in, a terrace, well-stocked library, sophisticated bar and fabulous gilded Mirror Room for private events. Their restaurant, Hans’ Bar & Grill offers an all-day seasonal menu, rooted in British produce and underpinned by classical cookery skills. NOTA BENE... 11 Cadogan Gardens was built by Lord Chelsea in the late-19th century and became a bohemian haunt of Victorian aristocrats, politicians, artists and poets. Doubles from £295 +44 (0)20 7730 7000; 11cadogangardens.com

ARTIST RESIDENCE PIMLICO, SW1

The third hotel in the hands of dynamic duo Justin and Charlie (Charlotte) Salisbury – following their Artist Residences in Brighton (see page 90) and Penzance (see page 44) – was once just a down-at-heel local boozer. Together, with enthusiasm, hard work and artistic flair, they’ve transformed it into a charming, affordable London hotel with bags of character. On three elegant floors, it has eight comfortably rustic bedrooms and two fabulous suites, all imaginatively decorated and furnished with quirky, cleverly sourced finds. There’s also a laid-back sitting room, a moody and glamorous cocktail bar that comes alive at night and, taking centre stage, the Cambridge Street Kitchen. A welcoming social space by day, serving brunch, cold-pressed juices and Workshop coffee, it transforms into a modern restaurant at night. A separate entrance for hotel guests means there’s no awkward check-in at the bar. NOTA BENE... Tucked away in the basement is Clarendon Cocktail Cellar, where drinks are inspired by cult movies – there’s a Kill Bill, complete with black vanilla sugar stripe, or The Departed, so lethal it’s limited to two per person. Doubles from £215 +44 (0)20 3019 8610; artistresidence.co.uk 106 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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LONDON

THE ATHENAEUM MAYFAIR, W1

Since its beginnings in 1850 as an MP’s elegant mansion, The Athenaeum has continually reinvented itself. The award-winning, family run hotel is located in the heart of bustling Mayfair, opposite Green Park, and is a perfect base from which to explore the capital’s key landmarks. The hotel epitomises five-star luxury with an independent spirit and, being surrounded by hidden gems, affords guests the opportunity to marvel at parts of London undiscovered by most visitors. It has benefited from a beautiful, design-led transformation of all its public spaces, including newly launched rooms and private residences that exude English charm and celebrate the hotel’s art deco roots. The View, occupying the hotel’s top floor, is a sumptuous space for residents to relax with panoramic vistas of the London skyline. Dining is courtesy of the Michelin-starred Galvin brothers, whose inspired cooking champions British produce with a seasonal menu to delight all palates. NOTA BENE... While working on E.T., Close Encounters and Raiders of the Lost Ark, the film director Steven Spielberg installed an editing suite in one of the hotel’s residences. Doubles from £305 +44 (0)20 7499 3464; athenaeumhotel.com

BATTY LANGLEY’S SPITALFIELDS, E1

Walk through the double doors into this charming hotel, packed with character and Georgian detail, and you might be entering another era. In lively, gentrified Spitalfields, Batty Langley’s lives up to its unusual name. Inspired by an 18th-century architect and landscape gardener, who wrote guides to help his clients plan their houses and gardens with taste and in a grand style, it’s in the same ownership as the equally captivating Hazlitt’s and The Rookery (see pages 115 and 120). The panelled interior, with its open fires, countless books, mellow antiques and fine paintings, feels more private house than hotel. Your most difficult choice will probably be which of the three warmly decorated sitting rooms to occupy. Cocooning their inhabitants in comfort and calm, the 29 bedrooms and suites are furnished with antique carved beds or fourposters, heavy silk curtains or wooden shutters and bathrooms with restored period fittings. Nods to the 21st century are discreetly hidden. NOTA BENE... While it may be a home from home to rock stars and royalty alike, you will never catch staff bragging. Suffice it to say, if you think you saw them, you probably did. Doubles from £295 +44 (0)20 7377 4390; battylangleys.com 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 107

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE BEAUMONT MAYFAIR, W1

It was always going to be great. The first hotel from restaurant supremos Corbin & King was a glossy, stylish hit from the moment it opened in 2014. Many Hotel of the Year awards later and now under new ownership, it is still private and still independent. The Beaumont is a classy joint (chequerboard lobby floor, early 20thcentury paintings, gleaming antiques) yet also intimate. The muralled Colony Grill Room is relaxed, sophisticated, New York-style dining at its best, serving timeless transatlantic classics, while the Magritte Bar is the place to be seen for pre-dinner cocktails. The 50 art deco-themed rooms and 23 suites are handsome, sensible and supremely comfortable and there’s the added luxury of the 1920s-style Hamam and Spa, inspired by the Turkish baths at the RAC Club in London and the original New York YMCA. NOTA BENE... Antony Gormley’s ROOM, a three-storey ‘inhabitable sculpture’ is what helped put the hotel, and North Mayfair, on the map. A magnificent architectural extension and public artwork from the outside, it contains an extraordinary one-bedroom suite of dark fumed oak within. Doubles from £450 +44 (0)20 7499 1001; thebeaumont.com

BELMOND CADOGAN HOTEL CHELSEA, SW1

New this year in all but name, the Cadogan first opened in 1887. It stands on Sloane Street, midway between Chelsea and Knightsbridge and while its sleek and glamorous good looks may recall wellheeled Knightsbridge, its many literary and artistic accents mean that boho Chelsea is here too: in bold check uniforms that reference Mary Quant, books and author talks curated by beloved Chelsea bookshop John Sandoe, specially commissioned art from young artists, and recollections of Oscar Wilde (famously arrested here) and his friend Lillie Langtry, whose adjacent house now forms a private entrance for hotel guests and a dining room of the restaurant. This is the domain of Chef Patron Adam Handling, who presides over classic yet imaginative English cuisine. The bedrooms and suites are stylish yet homely, all velvet, silk, wood, marble and chrome, with circular tables that double as desks and statement paintings from female artists. They took their inspiration from the private gardens opposite – and so can you, for guests get keys: a wonderful perk. NOTA BENE... The 25,000-crystal Swarovski peacock outside the dining room is called Oscar. Doubles from £470 +44 (0)20 7048 7141; belmond.com 108 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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LONDON

THE BERKELEY KNIGHTSBRIDGE, SW1

One of London’s stand-out five-star hotels, The Berkeley has an excellent Knightsbridge address and is all the rage with A-listers. Together with Claridge’s (see page 111) and The Connaught (see page 112), it’s part of the Maybourne Hotel Group, and is both welcoming and luxurious. It started life in the 1700s as a Piccadilly coffee house, became a hotel in 1897 and moved to its present location in 1972. The interior is all understated elegance: from the enveloping rooms and suites, with bathrooms of the finest Italian marble, to the famous Blue Bar and Richard Rogers-designed façade, allowing guests to make quite an entrance. A mouthwatering breakfast is served in the Collins Room. Nor should you miss Marcus Wareing’s modern European cooking at chic, Michelin-starred Marcus. There’s even an exquisite colonnaded rooftop pool and Ferrari Atelier, where clients can commission the tailor-made car of their dreams. NOTA BENE... The Berkeley’s famous Prêtà-Portea catwalk cakes are Dior-themed this year, inspired by the exhibition at the V&A. Doubles from £570 +44 (0)20 7235 6000; the-berkeley.co.uk

BINGHAM RIVERHOUSE RICHMOND

With a new look evoking the feel of a private members’ club, this intimate riverside idyll is as convivial as it is stylish. It began life as two Georgian townhouses, joined together by Lady Anne Bingham, a forebear of Lord Lucan. From 1899-1910 it was home to the poets Katherine Bradley and Edith Cooper. ‘I have rubbed myself against nature’s great warm hand,’ wrote Katherine, after a bout of gardening, ‘in a spirit of pagan delight’. Crikey. Today, you’ll find the friendliest of staff and three dining rooms that tell slightly different stories; the drawing room has a spacious bar that has the feel of a country house kitchen; the parlour has striking modern art and verdant views; and the walls of the library area are now filled with rows of nicely dog-eared old Penguin paperbacks – 2816, to be precise. But it’s the setting and the view that add the extra magic: the river is just at the end of the expansive terrace with its pretty walled garden, and there’s a towpath by the water where rowing boats and pleasure craft splash by. And London on your doorstep. NOTA BENE... Each bedroom is named after a poem by Michael Field, the shared pseudonym used by Katherine Bradley and Edith Cooper. Doubles from £120 +44 (0)20 8940 0902; thebingham.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 109

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE BLOOMSBURY BLOOMSBURY, WC1

A cherished member of The Doyle Collection, an exclusive Irish hotel group that also includes The Kensington (see page 115) and The Marylebone (see page 118) in London, and The Westbury (see page 207) in Dublin, The Bloomsbury is a sympathetic conversion of a Grade II-listed 1930s Lutyens building. Following a multimillion pound investment led by Doyle chairman Bernie Gallagher, the transformation includes a new reception area, luxury studio suites with Italian marble bathrooms, a library dedicated to Seamus Heaney, comfortable guest sitting room and stunning, chandeliered 1920s-style bar, The Coral Room – designed by the acclaimed Swedish designer, Martin Brudnizki. The hotel’s ever-popular Dalloway Terrace is an enchanting, colourful indoor-outdoor restaurant, while the wonderful wood-panelled Bloomsbury Club Bar is a must for a pre- or post-prandial drink. There’s a sense of calm in this hotel and an understated elegance that shields guests against the hubbub of the outside world. NOTA BENE... The neo-Georgian exterior of the 1928 building was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens and modelled on Queen Mary’s doll’s house. Doubles from £306 +44 (0)20 7347 1000; doylecollection.com

BROWN’S HOTEL MAYFAIR, W1

Quintessentially British, with a hint of the unexpected, Brown’s was founded by Lord Byron’s butler in 1837 as one of London’s first hotels. In the heart of Mayfair, this five-star delight has all the history and gravitas but none of the pomp or flashiness of some of its rivals. The rooms and suites have been curated by Olga Polizzi for her brother, Sir Rocco Forte, each paying tribute to the hotel’s illustrious heritage and charm. The Kipling Suite honours Rudyard Kipling, who famously penned The Jungle Book while staying here. In the award-winning English Tea Room (where Queen Victoria became an early fan of afternoon tea) original panelling sits easily with modern art from neighbouring Mayfair galleries. The famous Donovan Bar features a 1960s-inspired menu created exclusively by ‘Maestro’, Salvatore Calabrese, while the restaurant at Brown’s offers a casual dining menu of seasonal, British dishes. Downstairs, there’s even a spoiling subterranean spa. NOTA BENE... Crime writer Agatha Christie was a regular visitor and her book, At Bertram’s Hotel, is thought to be based on Brown’s Hotel. Doubles from £510 +44 (0)20 7493 6020; roccofortehotels.com 110 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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LONDON

THE CAPITAL KNIGHTSBRIDGE, SW3

This boutique Knightsbridge hotel offers all the sumptuousness and service expected of its rare five stars, yet it’s also unexpectedly intimate and personal. Next to Harrods, The Capital, now part of Warwick Hotels, has one of the highest levels of repeat business in London. From the moment you encounter the concierge team, headed by the renowned Clive Smith (aka Superman), you know you’re staying somewhere special, where every element is fine-tuned and beautifully presented. In the five star Restaurant an ever-changing menu of dishes is orchestrated by executive chef Adam Simmonds, while the elegant Capital Bar is home to an enviable collection of whiskies. Roomy and cosseting, the 49 bedrooms are decorated in classic, elegant style and have superlative beds and marble bathrooms. If you prefer your luxury English and understated, then The Capital is for you. NOTA BENE... The Capital’s staff are as devotedly loyal as the guests: 15 team members have amassed over 250 years’ service between them. Doubles from £300 +44 (0)20 7591 1200; capitalhotel.co.uk

CLARIDGE’S MAYFAIR, W1

Do you love giving special gifts to special people? Then pop Claridge’s in a presentation box, tie it up with red ribbon and give it – for a night or two – to someone you love. It has always had cachet. But while it used to be the staid and stately base for visiting royalty, today it is a spirited mix of glittering and gracious, hip and dignified, underpinned by superb service. As part of the Maybourne Group that includes The Connaught (see page 112) and The Berkeley (see page 109), it’s the detail that makes it sing. From the moment you push the revolving door past celebrity-spotting photographers into the glacial, marble-floored Front Hall, to the wrought-iron lift complete with attendant and comfy seat, the art deco bathrooms, the Fumoir’s 1930s jewel box bar – not to mention the new Davies and Brook restaurant by Daniel Humm and Will Guidara – it keeps on giving. If ever there was a hotel that felt like the ultimate treat, it is Claridge’s right now, at the pinnacle of its 200-year history. NOTA BENE... In 1951 Katherine Hepburn refused to change out of her trousers in order to fit with Claridge’s dress code, and insisted on entering via the staff entrance instead. Doubles from £570 +44 (0)20 7629 8860; claridges.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 111

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

COMO THE HALKIN BELGRAVIA, SW1

Can a hotel corridor be seductive? It can here. From the lift doors you navigate a graceful arc of black-painted strips of wood in which bedroom doors are all but invisible. You forget you’re in a city centre hotel built on a former parking lot because these gently curving walls give the impression of infinite depth, creating a Zen mood of calm. More than COMO The Halkin’s airy lobby, more than its Armani-clad staff, these corridors define its atmosphere. You tread softly and, even when the hotel is full, it feels unhurried; those anonymous doors speak silently of privacy, contentment and calm amid the storm. After 27 years, COMO The Halkin remains effortlessly cool and stylish, and those casting about for a spoiling, impeccably designed London base should look no further. COMO Shambhala treatments are available only in the sanctuary of your room. For sustenance, there’s the ‘New Basque’ restaurant, Ametsa with Arzak Instruction, with its unique glass canopy ceiling. NOTA BENE... Famous friends of COMO The Halkin have included Tina Turner, David Bowie, Steve Jobs and Angelina Jolie – who stayed for nearly a year when shooting Tomb Raider. Doubles from £390 +44 (0)20 7333 1000; comohotels.com/thehalkin

THE CONNAUGHT MAYFAIR, W1

How we love The Connaught. It has always been a special, very British place and now, as part of the exemplary Maybourne Group (see Claridge’s, above, and The Berkeley, page 109), it’s both a home from home and a glamorous destination, with superbly orchestrated service. While the magnificent mahogany staircase compels guests not to take the lift, treats don’t come better than a ceremonial martini (aromatic flavourings, quietly stirred, never shaken) in the seductive, buzzing Connaught Bar. Since 2008 The Connaught has been home to two-Michelinstarred Hélène Darroze, whose ravishing dishes are perfectly complemented by India Mahdavi’s sophisticated, colourful surroundings. There are many pleasures: taking breakfast at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s restaurant overlooking Tadao Ando’s specially commissioned water feature in Carlos Place; Tom Stuart-Smith’s Moon Garden; the John Lobb shoeshine chair; the peerless rooms and suites. A great hotel in its prime. NOTA BENE... You can now take home a limited edition, hand-inscribed bottle of The Connaught Bar’s very own distilled-in-house gin by master mixologist Agostino Perrone. Doubles from £570 +44 (0)20 7499 7070; the-connaught.co.uk 112 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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LONDON

CORINTHIA LONDON WESTMINSTER, SW1

A luxury hotel for the 21st century, with the river and central London at its door. Whichever entrance you use – Northumberland Avenue or Whitehall Place – you’ll be struck by the wowfactor elegance of Corinthia’s Crystal Moon Lounge, lit by a dramatic Baccarat chandelier and a must for afternoon tea. Originally built in the 1880s, it opened in its present incarnation in 2011 after a super-lavish refit. Now there’s plenty to impress: modern British cuisine at André Garrett’s The Northall, with its own magnificent bar; Michelin-starred chef Tom Kerridge’s first London venture, Kerridge’s Bar & Grill, with a menu of elevated classic dishes; al fresco drinking and dining in The Garden Lounge, which also offers an extensive, carefully curated cigar menu; and the destination Bassoon Bar. Corinthia can also boast London’s most spacious hotel bedrooms (there are 283 sumptuous rooms, suites and penthouses), as well as a multi-awardwinning spa covering four entire floors. NOTA BENE... Dating from 1885, the building spent 50 years as the prestigious Hôtel Métropole before being taken over to provide offices for the Ministry of Defence in 1936. Doubles from £552 +44 (0)20 7930 8181; corinthia.com

DORSET SQUARE HOTEL MARYLEBONE, NW1

The first of Firmdale’s vibrant and welcoming city hotels, opened in 1985 by multi-talented husband and wife team Tim and Kit Kemp. Like their Knightsbridge Hotel (see page 116) and Number Sixteen (see page 119), it’s a beautiful London townhouse, in this case Regency, with some gentle decorative reminders that it overlooks the site of Thomas Lord’s first cricket ground, Dorset Square. There are cricket bats arranged like works of art, miniature balls used as wardrobe door handles, photographs and cartoons of famous cricketers and other memorabilia, all incorporated into Kit’s sophisticated interiors. Her style is witty, contemporary and bold, combining strong colours and contrasting fabrics, enhanced by exciting modern art. There’s an elegant drawing room with an honesty bar, and 38 seductive bedrooms, many overlooking the Dorset Square garden, to which guests have access. The Potting Shed restaurant serves exceptional modern British food, with a clever lighting installation by Martha Freud. NOTA BENE... Ask Firmdale’s reception supervisor, Edyta Gurgul, for her tips on local shopping and what’s on at the theatre. Doubles from £282 +44 (0)20 7723 7874; firmdalehotels.com 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 113

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

DURRANTS HOTEL MARYLEBONE, W1

One of London’s few remaining privately owned hotels, Durrants has been in the Miller family for four generations, since 1921, but its first guests arrived even earlier, in 1790, when it opened as a coaching inn. Today, the hotel is an English classic, whose gentle charms extend from the venerable panelled entrance, complete with Edwardian postbox and uniformed staff, to the cosy George Bar, with its leather tub chairs and original cast-iron open fireplace. In the dignified restaurant you’ll find polished wood panelling, leather banquettes and a stately silver trolley, wheeled to your table for the joint to be carved. A seasonal menu features traditional favourites, alongside contemporary dishes. A long white hall, lined with pictures, links several intimate private dining and sitting rooms, including the convivial Spy Lounge and elegant Wallace Room, perfect for reading, working or meeting friends. Upstairs are 92 enveloping rooms and suites, furnished in country house style with a sleek townhouse edge. NOTA BENE... Durrants prides itself on the English ritual of afternoon tea with freshly-made cakes – and champagne if you’re in the mood. Doubles from £195 +44 (0)20 7935 8131; durrantshotel.co.uk

THE GORING BELGRAVIA, SW1

Opened in 1910, and still in the same family, The Goring is gloriously British. But although it’s a grand, dignified institution, it never takes itself too seriously, possessing what so many smart hotels lack: a sense of humour. Where else does Noël Coward sing Mad Dogs and Englishmen while your call is being connected? As well as great comfort, it has undeniable wow-factor glamour. This year sees the addition of Siren, a fabulous new restaurant to complement the Michelin-starred Dining Room. Under chef Nathan Outlaw, it will showcase the best of Cornish seafood, while Russell Sage’s redesign is set to accentuate the unique hotel’s impeccably English character with a bright, lively space that includes a bar serving classic cocktails and British spirits. The huge private garden, complete with croquet lawn, is The Goring’s secret glory. NOTA BENE... The walls of the master bedroom in the Royal Suite are lined with the same silk that graced the first class dining room of RMS Titanic in 1912, while the silk in the bathroom is a match for that adorning the throne room at Buckingham Palace. Doubles from £445 +44 (0)20 7396 9000; thegoring.com 114 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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LONDON

HAZLITT’S SOHO, W1

Hazlitt’s is the real deal: as genuine, amusing and revealing a hotel as you could hope for, especially in bustling Soho. It’s named after the radical essayist and master of English prose, William Hazlitt. He died in poverty in 1830 at number 6 Frith Street, one of three adjoining townhouses that the owners, experts on the Georgian era, fashioned into Hazlitt’s in 1986. A fourth building behind was converted to create a sitting room with an honesty bar and an additional eight bedrooms, reached by a lift. As befits an establishment with such literary connections, the hotel is popular with authors, who leave signed copies of their works when they depart. The sloping, creaking floorboards have been retained and the rooms, decorated with antiques, busts and prints, are individually furnished, with splendid bathtubs and Victorian fittings in the bathrooms. Like the rooms in its distinctive sister establishments, Batty Langley’s and The Rookery (see pages 107 and 120), they are delightfully different from other London hotels. NOTA BENE... Sir Godfrey, the hotel’s resident cat, has lived at Hazlitt’s for nine years. Doubles from £295 +44 (0)20 7434 1771; hazlittshotel.com

THE KENSINGTON SOUTH KENSINGTON, SW7

What a great address, in an attractive and central part of London that hasn’t so far been noted for its hotels; at least, not until spot-hitting ones like this Doyle Collection model – the family-owned luxury group that also owns London’s The Marylebone (see page 118 and The Bloomsbury (see page 110) hotels, and The Westbury (see page 207) in Dublin. Its chairman Bernie Gallagher oversaw the interior design to make it feel like a beautiful private residence. Comfortable, sophisticated, but never try-hard, you can eat and drink in the homely Town House restaurant or in the K Bar, which offers signature cocktails and bar bites. The public drawing rooms are stylish yet relaxing and there are 150 beautifully decorated bedrooms and suites including two sumptuous signature suites. If you want to explore, there are Pashley bikes on which to pedal around the capital, with baskets for carrying a picnic – a typically thoughtful touch. NOTA BENE... The Kensington has partnerships with local institutions such as the nearby Victoria & Albert Museum and Royal Albert Hall which allows special guests access to exclusive VIP tickets and packages. Doubles from £330 +44 (0)20 7589 6300; doylecollection.com 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 115

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

KNIGHTSBRIDGE HOTEL KNIGHTSBRIDGE, SW3

Tim and Kit Kemp, owners of Firmdale Hotels, have the knack of creating places to stay that not only look fabulous but are also easy-going and smoothly run. Knightsbridge Hotel is no exception, an imposing house in a quiet cul-desac and the ideal canvas for their skills (see also Dorset Square Hotel, page 113, Number Sixteen, page 119, and The Soho Hotel, page 123). Kit has designed the interior with typical panache, using vivid colours, specially-designed fabrics, original British art and statement furniture. There are two public rooms downstairs, the drawing room and library, each with a working fireplace. A fireside tea is a winter treat. The 44 bedrooms and suites upstairs are all as fresh and lovely to look at as to sleep in, with thoughtful extras such as iPod docking stations. For a special occasion, book the stunning open-plan Knightsbridge Suite, with its triptych of floor-length windows. No restaurant, but there’s 24-hour room service. NOTA BENE... Location. Tucked away in a quiet street in Knightsbridge, yet just minutes from Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Sloane Street, and close to the V&A, Natural History Museum and Science Museum. Doubles from £318 +44 (0)20 7584 6300; firmdalehotels.com

THE LEVIN KNIGHTSBRIDGE, SW3

Here’s a well kept secret, one that combines the luxury of a top hotel with the intimacy of a guesthouse. Women, solo or otherwise, love it. Why wouldn’t they, when it’s a designer bag’s swing from Harrods and Harvey Nichols? The Levin is the baby sister of The Capital, almost next door (see page 111). If The Capital is small, The Levin is tiny: 12 bedrooms arranged around a staircase that spirals through five floors, with a dramatic, 18-metre shimmering chandelier cascading down the stairwell like an art installation. The lobby has a beautiful, tranquil feel, and the minute lift is a nostalgic throwback. The bedrooms are the sort you may never want to leave: suave, with particularly good lighting, a selection of interesting paperbacks and – best of all – the champagne minibar, with all the ingredients, including recipes, for the perfect champagne cocktail. And when you're peckish, just pop next door for afternoon tea and fine British cuisine. NOTA BENE... The Levin is the world’s closest hotel to Harrods – only 67 steps away. Doubles from £275 +44 (0)20 7589 6286; thelevinhotel.co.uk 116 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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LONDON

LIME TREE HOTEL BELGRAVIA, SW1

It’s rare to find an affordable hotel in central London; even more so in smart Belgravia. But the Lime Tree is just that, and what’s more it has the air of a place in the country, with painted furniture and breakfast menus chalked jauntily on blackboards. Matt and Charlotte Goodsall took over the guesthouse from Charlotte’s parents and, after extensive renovation and redecoration, have created a delightful bolthole, with the added bonus of a garden, complete with lawn and potting shed. There are 25 simple, stylish and homely bedrooms, with pretty fabrics and personal touches. One has a small terrace and garden access; another has ‘bookshelves’ wallpaper across one wall that hides the door to the bathroom. Staff are notably friendly and helpful, and single travellers are particularly well looked after. There’s a cosy sitting room, awash with the latest glossy magazines, and breakfast is served at your table in a room full of chatter that feels like home. NOTA BENE... The two Grade II-listed townhouses that form Lime Tree were joined together a century ago and have been welcoming travellers from around the world ever since. Doubles from £150 +44 (0)20 7730 8191; limetreehotel.co.uk

MANDARIN ORIENTAL HYDE PARK, LONDON KNIGHTSBRIDGE, SW1

The celebrated Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group is a byword for luxury and exceptional service. Its London outpost, in an exuberant red-brick Edwardian building, is no exception, having completed a comprehensive, multimillion-pound renovation to stunning designs by Joyce Wang. Citing the natural beauty of Hyde Park, the hotel’s royal heritage and the glamour of the early 20thcentury’s golden age of travel as her inspiration, the finished look is fabulous. The reception areas have striking glass chandeliers that represent the different stages of an opening flower, and carpets that recall fallen leaves. The revamped art decoinfluenced bedrooms are sanctuaries of calm, with curated artwork and bespoke furniture. Two sumptuous penthouse suites have private terraces and park views, while the new spa features express treatments as well as all-day cosseting packages. Highlights of the fitness centre are a 17m pool and a swish pilates studio devised by personal trainer du jour, Hollie Grant. NOTA BENE... HM Queen Elizabeth II and her sister, the late Princess Margaret, first learned to dance in the ballroom. Doubles from £660 +44 (0)20 7235 2000; mandarinoriental.com 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 117

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE MARYLEBONE MARYLEBONE, W1

Which born-and-bred Londoners would have dreamed that Marylebone, an area once dusty and overlooked, could become such a chic and lively quarter, full of quirky, stylish shops, restaurants and cafés? And at its heart this cosmopolitan community has The Marylebone, a great place for breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea or dinner in its sassy 108 Brasserie – also perfect for a catch-up drink at the bar with a friend. Sister to The Bloomsbury (see page 110) and The Kensington (see page 115) hotels, as well as the The Westbury (see page 207) in Dublin, The Marylebone’s recent refurb has added a new lobby cocktail bar, seasonal lounges, including an outdoor Summer Terrace, and sparkling new party and event spaces – The Marylebone Rooms and Number Six. Add in the on-site Third Space gym, indoor pool and spa, and The Marylebone has it all. NOTA BENE... Three spectacular rooftop Terrace Suites, each with retractable roof, television and fireplace, offer Mary Poppinsesque views over the chimney pots of Marylebone and Mayfair, all the way to The Shard and beyond. Doubles from £306 +44 (0)20 7486 6600; doylecollection.com

THE NED THE CITY, EC2

The staid and stately City got the buzz and the kick that its many youthful workers craved when Sir Edwin ‘Ned’ Lutyens’ glorious 1924 Midland Bank was transformed into The Ned, Nick Jones’ most ambitious venture: part restaurant complex, part hotel, part private members’ club. And it’s not just City employees who flock there, the rest of London comes too, in droves, helped by The Ned’s brilliant location by Bank tube station. In the marvellous 3,000 sq/m original banking hall you’ll find African malachite art deco pillars, polished walnut walls, Jazz Age crystal chandeliers and old banking counters reinvented as room dividers for eight restaurants – from Italian Cecconi’s to Californian Malibu Kitchen and Asian-Pacific Kaia, and live music at its heart. The retro-style bedrooms have the usual charming Nick Jones details, from china cups to Cowshed products. Best of all, hotel guests who book direct can use Ned’s Club gym and spa; those in suites can use the stunning rooftop pool. NOTA BENE... The bank’s original strongroom is home to the Ned’s Club members’ cocktail bar, The Vault, lined with 3,000 safe deposit boxes. On quiet nights, they’ll let non-members in too. Doubles from £250 +44 (0)20 3828 2000; thened.com 118 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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LONDON

NUMBER SIXTEEN SOUTH KENSINGTON, SW7

In a mid-Victorian white stucco terrace, Number Sixteen is one of Firmdale’s townhouse hotels, which include Dorset Square Hotel (see page 113) and Knightsbridge Hotel (see page 116). Decorated by co-owner and creative director Kit Kemp in her inimitable, contemporary, eclectic style, it’s full of bold colours and joyful collisions of pattern and hand-picked artworks. The result: your spirits are lifted the moment you walk inside. The ground-floor rooms are flooded with light from floor-to-ceiling windows and include two drawing rooms, a library with that Firmdale trademark, an honesty bar, and an Orangery, leading to a beautifully designed and leafy garden – a rare treat, and one of London’s best-kept secrets. In summer this is the spot for relaxing with drinks, nibbles and friends. Number Sixteen has just 41 rooms, but the facilities of a larger luxury hotel are in place – 24-hour room service, valet and concierge. It’s also a stylish place to eat: breakfast, lunch, dinner and afternoon tea are served in The Orangery. NOTA BENE... There’s no spa, but you can request an in-room therapist from Firmdale’s nearby Soholistic Spa at Ham Yard. Doubles from £282 +44 (0)20 7589 5232; firmdalehotels.com

ONE ALDWYCH COVENT GARDEN, WC2

This luxury hotel reopened in spring after a fabulous multi-million-pound refurbishment; its 18-metre chlorine-free pool and 24-hour gym were previously refreshed in 2018. Independently owned, it turned heads when it first opened just over 20 years ago in a landmark Edwardian building created by architects Mewès and Davis for the Morning Post. In the latest project, inspired British designer Robert Angell (think The Connaught, The Berkeley and Lime Wood) has brought all the bedrooms, bathrooms and four large new suites up to date. His genius with colour, shape and texture shows; rooms are luxurious and elegant, contemporary and laidback, equipped with user-friendly technology and every conceivable comfort. Leading interior designers Fabled Studio have reimagined the public spaces, creating a ravishing new look for the iconic Lobby Bar, entrance and Indigo restaurant. Plus its new eatery, Eneko Basque Kitchen & Bar, makes it a cutting-edge hotel in every way, in one of London’s buzziest locations . NOTA BENE... Colin Firth, Ewan McGregor and Sally Hawkins were filmed in the Waterloo Bridge Suite for Woody Allen’s film, Cassandra’s Dream. Rates from £385 +44 (0)20 7300 1000; onealdwych.com 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 119

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE PORTOBELLO HOTEL NOTTING HILL, W11

In room 16, Kate Moss and Johnny Depp filled the Victorian bath with champagne, Alice Cooper kept his snakes in it, and Tim Burton flooded the room by leaping from the bed into the bath and back again. The Stones, U2, Tina Turner and many other starry names from music, fashion and show business also stayed at The Portobello in its heyday. A few years ago it was given a new lease of life by Peter and Jessica Frankopan of A Curious Group of Hotels, which includes Cowley Manor (see page 130), L’Hôtel in Paris and Canal House in Amsterdam. Today’s look encapsulates the bohemian spirit of Portobello Road in the Swinging Sixties and that famous bed and bath are still there, among many other items from the hotel’s decadent past. Rooms, however, have been brought forward and the decoration judiciously updated using bold colours. Even the minute attic rooms have been cleverly enlarged. There’s no restaurant but breakfast in bed and sharing boards in the sitting room are on offer, as well as an honesty bar with antique crystal glasses from Portobello Market. NOTA BENE... Robbie Williams once tried to buy the circular bed from legendary room 16. Doubles from £215 +44 (0)20 7727 2777; portobellohotel.com

THE ROOKERY CLERKENWELL, EC1

Those in the know about London don’t lay their heads in the centre of town, they swerve east to its most fashionable districts. Luckily, we know of secret abodes beyond the reach of hipsters and tech geeks. One such hideaway is the deliciously unique Rookery, set in the heart of gastronomic Clerkenwell. After eating topclass grub and partying hard, you can retreat to one of its 33 quirky bedrooms, none of which is the same. Each, though, shares gorgeous Georgian detailing, polished brass metalwork in bathrooms, antiques aplenty and shelves bulging with real books. You won’t worry about the wonky floors or the lack of things like a spa or a gym, you’ll enjoy the calm and mannered atmosphere of a private club as you settle in the drawing room or courtyard garden with the papers. On the doorstep? Well, you’re moments away from St Paul’s Cathedral and then it’s a stroll over the Millennium Bridge to Tate Modern. NOTA BENE... In the 1800s, the area was teeming with thieves, tarts and ne’er-do-wells. A rookery was universally understood to mean a criminal area and many of the rooms are named after those local characters of ill repute. Doubles from £295 +44 (0)20 7336 0931; rookeryhotel.com 120 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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LONDON

ROSEATE HOUSE LONDON HYDE PARK, W2

A short walk from Hyde Park, this opulent boutique hotel offers stunning views over leafy Westbourne Terrace. Once described as ‘quite the finest street in London’, the hotel faces St James Church, where in 1884 Oscar Wilde married Constance Lloyd. Three midVictorian, Grade II-listed townhouses, restored to the charm and allure of their original 1842 architecture, have melded into one to create Roseate Hotels & Resorts’ London outpost. Inside, it’s all Victorian furniture and oil paintings. The result feels elegant yet homely, rooted in the past yet cool and sophisticated, with 48 rooms and suites bursting with period features but also offering the latest cuttingedge technology. Settle down for one of the rare whiskeys on offer in the plush velvet, silkupholstered elegance of the Hyde Bar, where the food menu refreshingly offers dishes that complement rather than dominate the drinks. NOTA BENE... Jonty Hearnden, antiques expert, appraiser and presenter of BBC’s Antiques Roadshow and Cash in the Attic, has hand-selected and curated all the unique antiques for Roseate House London. Doubles from £159 +44 (0)20 7479 6600; roseatehotels.com

ROSEWOOD LONDON HOLBORN, WC1

Since its opening in 2013, Rosewood has risen effortlessly to the highest echelons of London’s luxury hotels, combining English heritage with contemporary sophistication. The Grade II-listed belle époque building has been sensitively renovated, with the feel of a stylish London residence; its Grand Pavonazzo marble staircase soars to a dizzying 166’-high cupola. The work of two designers, Tony Chi created the splendid Rose Bronze Gallery entrance, the jewel box Mirror Room restaurant and 262 glamorous rooms and 44 suites. Martin Brudnizki designed both the Holborn Dining Room – a bustling British brasserie with innovative cuisine and a trendy gin bar – and the wildly popular Scarfes Bar, its walls decorated with a collection of paintings by satirist Gerald Scarfe. Don’t miss head chef and pastry expert Calum Franklin’s Pie Room, dedicated to that most iconic of British dishes. Every suite comes with a dedicated butler, and service throughout is faultless. NOTA BENE... Guests enter a grand, wrought iron-gated former carriage arch, leading to the hotel’s historic central courtyard, with its majestic, intricately-scrolled stone facades. Doubles from £400 +44 (0)20 7781 8888; rosewoodhotels.com/london 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 121

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE SAVOY COVENT GARDEN, WC2

London’s most celebrated and glamorous five-star, the Savoy is also the only luxury hotel on the River Thames. Its quintessentially British setting also enables guests to make the most of an exceptional location, steps away from the vibrant heart of Covent Garden. The 267 luxury bedrooms and suites, many of which enjoy spectacular river views, are in either art deco or Edwardian style, and guests benefit from a choice of some of the best restaurants in London. Kaspar’s at The Savoy showcases contemporary seasonal fare, and great British fixtures include the Savoy Grill by Gordon Ramsay and Simpson’s in the Strand. The renowned ritual of afternoon tea continues to this day in the Thames Foyer and, as day turns to night, its setting becomes more intimate, for evening drinks and dinner accompanied by live music. For evening guests there’s the Beaufort Bar, with its theatrical atmosphere and innovative mixology, and the award-winning American Bar, harking back to the 1920s and the golden age of classic cocktails. NOTA BENE... Since opening in 1889, the Savoy’s eminent guest list has included Marilyn Monroe, Winston Churchill and Her Majesty The Queen. Doubles from £485 +44 (0)20 7836 4343; thesavoylondon.com

THE SLOANE CLUB CHELSEA, SW1

A London home from home for legions of well-heeled country folk, The Sloane Club is as cosmopolitan as cucumber sandwiches and as hip as tea on the vicarage lawn, but also as calm, elegant, well-run and reassuringly welcoming as you could wish to find. A private members’ club, it’s open for overnight stays in its comfortable bedrooms and up-to-date, very smart bathrooms, plus spoiling treatments in The Sloane Club Spa. Downstairs you’ll find inviting sitting rooms and a splendid restaurant headed up by executive chef Bernhard Mayer – a combination of clubby and contemporary that sparkles under its glass roof. Tuck in to the best of British food with your fellow diners: politicians, squires from the shires, perhaps a covey of vicars and boho daughters dining with their dads. In the morning, enjoy a generous breakfast in the pretty garden room and inspect the dozens of affectionate caricatures of toffs at rest and play – with their dogs and guns, their G&Ts, their gardeners and their village fêtes. You are one of them now. NOTA BENE... The Sloane Club has Matt Hobbs, former Groucho MD at the helm, bringing a touch of Soho to Chelsea. Doubles from £180 +44 (0)20 7730 9131; sloaneclub.co.uk 122 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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LONDON

THE SOHO HOTEL SOHO, W1

This punchy and exciting yet deeply comfortable and welcoming Firmdale hotel is tucked away on a quiet street in the heart of London’s characterful entertainment district, surrounded by some of its best restaurants, bars, cafés, theatre and nightlife. It’s full of bold statements that are typical of co-owner and creative director Kit Kemp: her eye for beauty, fun and colour starts with the 10ft bronze Fernando Botero cat in the lobby, which has become something of a Firmdale symbol (see also Dorset Square Hotel, page 113, Knightsbridge Hotel, page 116, and Number Sixteen, page 119). As well as the drawing room, a quirky take on a private London residence, where light floods in, you’ll find a library, screening room and film club, plus the REFUEL restaurant and bar, with its wonderful motoring mural and all-day electric atmosphere. The 96 bedrooms, including suites, are blissfully comfortable, energetically designed and full of personality, with floor-to-ceiling warehouse-style windows. NOTA BENE... The Soho was the area’s first luxury hotel, built on the site of a former NCP car park – hence the REFUEL restaurant. Doubles from £402 +44 (0)20 7559 3000; firmdalehotels.com

STRAND PALACE COVENT GARDEN, WC2

Strand Palace first welcomed guests in 1909, and has an unbeatable location, offering so much of London on its doorstep. Set on the famous thoroughfare of the Strand, just minutes from Covent Garden and the River Thames, it is perfectly placed for guests eager to explore the heart of the capital. Since completing its ground floor refurbishment, the hotel aims to soar to the top of London’s four-star rankings; the brand new restaurant and bar, Haxells, has transformed the hotel into a one-of-akind destination. Its art deco styling channels the spirit of the hotel’s earlier 1920s heyday – especially its then-iconic foyer, which is now on display at the Victoria and Albert Museum. With 240 covers, the all-day restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, and there’s also a new, quintessentially English, afternoon tearoom and a private dining room. NOTA BENE... A room key from the hotel was found in the WWII trenches of Normandy, France, fallen from the pocket of a soldier who’d stayed here. It’s now at the V&A, along with the regal revolving doors that originally defined Strand Palace’s elegant art deco character. Doubles from £110 +44 (0)20 7379 4737; strandpalacehotel.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 123

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The Cotswolds With bags of traditional chocolate box charm, cosy pubs and rolling hills, this pretty corner has attracted a new wave of resident, who are always up for a good time

Graham Norton, Freedom: Paraglider over the Manger White Horse Hill. Uffington, Oxfordshire Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 12 (AA Publishing, ÂŁ25)

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Bibury is one of England’s most beautiful villages

Le Champignon Sauvage

Despite the Soho Farmhouse effect, there are still pockets of the Cotswolds that retain old-school character

he largest designated Area of Natural Beauty in all of England and Wales, the Cotswolds are famous for traditional villages, rolling hills, historic sites and over 5,000km of prime walking routes: a mixed and incredibly photogenic bag that has long enticed nature lovers, history buffs and unruly families alike. Lately, thanks to the ‘Soho Farmhouse effect’, discerning city slickers make a beeline there at weekends. Yet the classic Cotswolds region that Sensational Sezincote we know and love remains intact, and therein lies its genius: timeless, yet still timely. You can admire Bibury, the We’ve all marvelled at most beautiful village in England Brighton Pavilion, but have according to William Morris, you seen the building that explore Churchill’s birthplace, inspired it? Spectacular Sezincote stock up on organic beauty fixes House is a little slice of India near – all in the space of a day. Moreton-in-Marsh. sezincote.co.uk Soho Farmhouse The Cotswolds has become Lions and tigers and bears, attracts the likes of something of an unofficial festival oh my! Cotswold Wildlife Park Suki Waterhouse capital in the UK, with year-round has them all in its 160 acres of offerings that span everything parkland, roaming against the from Cheltenham’s annual Jazz and surreal but stately backdrop of Literature festivals to haute-hippie a neo-Gothic manor house. An utterly favourites Wilderness, WOMAD and enchanting day out for the whole Soul Circus, dedicated to yoga. family. cotswoldwildlifepark.co.uk But if crowd avoidance and Stately Rides organises short horse precious peace and quiet are more rides through beautiful, romantic your thing, there are endless hidden countryside, with stays in elegant gems waiting to be discovered – it’s private homes each evening. Saddle part of the fun to find them. up! statelyrides.co.uk

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; REX FEATURES; © DEBBIE RYAN; ©JOSHUA ATKINS

Cotswolds Charm

EAT

It’s well worth veering away from the chocolate box villages towards the racing town of Cheltenham for its striking Regency architecture and the wonder that is Le Champignon Sauvage. The family-owned, two-Michelin-starred restaurant does field-to-fork dining at its best, where French technique elevates hyper-local, seasonal produce to dizzying standards with undoubtedly British results. lechampignonsauvage.co.uk Go traditional at the legendary Wheatsheaf Inn: a coaching inn that dates back to the 17th century, complete with crackling fires in winter, a beautiful garden in summer and a menu showcasing the very best of the Cotswolds countryside. Sunday lunch is the stuff of dreams. cotswoldswheatsheaf.com Bag a table at Carole Bamford’s fashionable Wild Rabbit, the epitome of new wave Cotswolds chic and winner of Michelin’s 2015 Pub of the Year. thewildrabbit.co.uk

SEE

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THE COTSWOLDS

Westonbirt National Arboretum in autumn

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; REX FEATURES; © DEBBIE RYAN; ©JOSHUA ATKINS

BUY

Burford is home to the family-run Upton Smokery, supplier to top restaurants and renowned for its homemade smoked partridge, trout, goose and guinea fowl. Arrive hungry for the regular Firehouse BBQ buffet (theuptonfirehouse.com), and pick up a packet of biltong for the road (uptonsmokery.co.uk). Don’t leave without visiting nearby Burford Sweet Shop, where every sweet treat imaginable is beautifully displayed in old-fashioned glass jars (burfordsweetshop.co.uk). Daylesford’s farm shop in Kingham is an absolute must. Fruit, veg and herbs are picked each morning from the garden and travel just a few metres into the shop – while the meat and dairy comes from animals freely roaming the surrounding organic pastures. daylesford.com The Cotswolds has one of the highest concentrations of antique shops outside London. Stow-on-the-Wold, Tetbury (Long Street Antiques in particular), Cirencester and Chipping Norton are full of treasures to take home. longstreetantiques.com

Hike up your sleeves and get that apron on. The Cookery School at Daylesford can teach you everything from the art of bread baking and noseto-tail butchery to game preparation and cheesemaking (daylesford.com). Thyme at Southrop Manor Estate also has its own cookery school, offering classes for all levels based on what’s in the kitchen garden that month. thyme.co.uk A pub crawl as the ultimate means of exploration? There are dozens of options along the 100-plus miles of the Cotswold Way for when you need a pit stop pint. All that walking really does run up an appetite. A good end-point is The Porch House, Britain’s oldest pub – established in 947 AD, but the good times are still rolling. porch-house.co.uk See nature in all its glory at the Westonbirt National Arboretum, which houses 15,000 specimens of tree from 2,500 different species and all corners of the globe. Perfect for those in need of a few gigantic lungfuls of fresh country air. Autumn is the best time to visit. forestry.gov.uk

Thyme’s cookery school

Ultimate organic shopping at Daylesford

W H E N

Go wild at Cotswold Wildlife Park

T O

G O

MARCH

AUGUST

SUMMER

Heralding the start of the British Summer Social Season, Cheltenham Festival draws crowds from across the country for four days every March, for its world-class horse racing and electric atmosphere. thejockeyclub.co.uk

Alex James’ ultimate feel-good event, The Big Feastival, is held over the August Bank Holiday weekend on his farm in Kingham, Oxfordshire. Expect a smashing line-up of live music, top chefs and street food. bigfeastival.com

The summer months see parts of the Cotswolds turn lilac with the advent of lavender season, making it a particularly aromatic time to visit. Head to Cotswold Lavender Farm in Broadway before the autumn harvest. cotswoldlavender.co.uk

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BARNSLEY HOUSE NR CIRENCESTER, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

If you dream of a hotel that’s not too large and not too small, somewhere effortlessly chic yet close to nature, with not only a famous garden but also a discreet spa and intimate cinema, then look no further than this gorgeous Cotswold retreat. Since becoming sister hotel to the admirable Calcot in 2009 (see opposite), Barnsley House has never looked better. The handsome 17th-century manor house is set in an intricate yet natural garden created by renowned horticulturist Rosemary Verey, whose centenary of birth is celebrated in 2018. No two bedrooms are the same, yet all are cool and comfortable, blending classy furniture and state-of-the-art facilities (such as cinema surround sound and plasma screens in bathrooms) that blend with traditional elements like old beams, stone fireplaces and wooden floors. As for lovely The Potager restaurant, its elegant, fresh and unfussy food is served in a cleverly-mirrored white and cucumber-green room, which leads to a pretty terrace overlooking that entrancing garden. NOTA BENE... Barnsley House is a popular celebrity spot but they are naturally far too discreet to name names. Doubles from £244 +44 (0)1285 740000; barnsleyhouse.com

THE BELL INN LANGFORD, OXFORDSHIRE

Cotswold born and bred, Peter Creed and Tom Noest have the perfect pedigree to run an authentic 16th-century country pub with rooms: Tom as cook and Peter running front of house. They reopened the Bell – a much-loved local in a picturesque village – in December 2017, and were garnering rave reviews within weeks. ‘I had not just the best mouthful of the year, but the best mouthful of my life,’ remarked food critic Giles Coren. It’s a real foodies’ pub, with a no-nonsense, ever-changing menu concentrating on locally sourced, fresh, hearty British dishes – pub classics, roasts and wood-fired fish, vegetables and pizzas, served in a cosy, beamed and flagstoned room. The eight stylish, renovated bedrooms – some above the pub, others on the ground floor – have king-size beds and knock-out bathrooms. You’ll be hard pushed to find a better value or more laid-back Cotswold inn. NOTA BENE... Arrangements can be made for guests to take part in a range of sports, from stalking and fishing to clay pigeon, driven and rough shooting. Doubles from £69 +44 (0)1367 860249; thebelllangford.com 128 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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THE COTSWOLDS

THE BRADLEY CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Whether you’re going to the races, to one of Cheltenham’s festivals, or simply sightseeing and shopping, The Bradley will be your home from home. This lovely, honeyedstone Regency townhouse in the fashionable Montpellier district has been a B&B since 2011 and was recently given a significant refurbishment by Peter and Lana de Savary. The interior is elegant in style with antiques, paintings and objets d’art. There are ten lovely bedrooms, including one with a romantic four-poster and another in art deco style. Two are new, contemporary, dog-friendly rooms in the delightful courtyard garden. A friendly welcome from general manager, Bea Seidler, and an honesty bar in the beautiful drawing room are just some of the touches that make The Bradley stand out. It also holds an AA Breakfast Award: an excellent full English and numerous healthier options are on offer in the airy dining room or pretty courtyard. A gem! NOTA BENE... The Bradley was formerly a refuge for widows returning from the colonies of the British Empire. It remains one of Cheltenham’s most important, complete historical houses. Doubles from £175 B&B +44 (0)1242 519077; thebradleyhotel.co.uk

CALCOT & SPA NR TETBURY, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Calcot suits many occasions – honeymoons, family gatherings, spa breaks, country weekends – with equal success. With roots going back to the 14th century, the present stone manor became a hotel in 1984. Since then, the surrounding farm buildings have been revived and brought into appropriate play over the years: Calcot is brilliant at moving with the times and this year sees a fresh new look for both The Conservatory Restaurant and The Barn. Today, it has 35 rooms, refreshed and reinvigorated, a gorgeous spa, The Barn for private events, an Ofsted registered crèche and two restaurants. Rooms in the manor house are designed with couples in mind, while family rooms and suites are in converted cottages and barns; deluxe suites have their own private garden. As well as the open-fire cooking of The Gumstool Inn, the hotel’s principal restaurant, The Conservatory, cuts a scintillating dash for an occasion. The sweeping, open-plan space is a buzzing, easy-going, all-day arena, with a diverse menu to match. NOTA BENE... It’s located only a stone’s throw from both Highgrove and Gatcombe Park if you’re after a dose of royalty. Doubles from £209 +44 (0)1666 890391; calcot.co 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 129

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

COWLEY MANOR CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

From the outside it’s a stunning Italianate manor house set in classical cascade-filled grounds; inside it’s a flawless, hip hotel, with 21st-century good looks. And although the style is cool, the welcome from ever-helpful staff is warm. After checking into your state-of-the-art room – in six categories with plenty for families – you can while away time playing pool in the padded leather billiards room, drinking in the funky bar or relaxing on the elegant stone terrace, a sun trap with fabulous views. If you’re inclined to go walking there are wellies by the front door or bicycles for those who want to feel the wind in their hair. Although the restaurant at Cowley Manor is in a magnificent panelled room, the atmosphere is relaxed and the menus (including for children) concentrate on robust, seasonal British food. Star of the show is the modernist, award-winning spa, C-Side, with its organic bath and skincare range, Green & Spring, and two pools. Cowley Manor is contemporary bliss-out and elegant stone grandeur, seamlessly blended. NOTA BENE... Legend has it the Grade II-listed gardens are where Lewis Carroll met Alice Liddell, the inspiration for Alice in Wonderland. Doubles from £205 +44 (0)1242 870900; cowleymanor.com

ELLENBOROUGH PARK CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

An outstanding address on the outskirts of Cheltenham, Ellenborough Park is an immaculately restored, sumptuous Cotswoldstone manor, bristling with turrets and towers, parts of which date back to 1500. In the 1830s it was home to Lord Ellenborough, former governor general of India, whose exotic influence is visible in the Great Hall and Minstrels’ Gallery. The peerless Nina Campbell has reinvented the interior, with 61 classically English bedrooms furnished with antiques and heavenly beds. In the restaurant, service is discreet and food contemporary, sophisticated and delicious, while the relaxed, pubby Horse Box with its stunning blue-painted bar, has a Cotswold-inspired menu, with a terrific choice of cocktails. There’s an outdoor pool, an intimate spa and a private path leading to Cheltenham Racecourse. Where better to stay during race meetings? NOTA BENE... Lord Ellenborough’s beautiful teenage wife, Jane Digby, proved to be a femme fatale. After divorcing him, to great scandal, she re-married three times, acquiring many highprofile lovers along the way, including both the King of Bavaria and his son, King Otto of Greece. Doubles from £159 +44 (0)1242 545454; ellenboroughpark.com 130 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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THE COTSWOLDS

THE FUZZY DUCK ARMSCOTE, WARWICKSHIRE

A brilliant example of a village pub that has been rescued with panache. Brother and sister business owners Adrian and Tania Slater have transformed the modest inn (formerly the Fox and Goose), into an expression of the same ‘affordable luxury’ ethos they’ve applied so successfully to their bath, body and fragrance company Baylis & Harding, and with the same sky-high standards. A top-to-toe transformation has created a slick, sophisticated and cosy place in which to drink, dine and stay – more like walking into a private home than a pub. The bedrooms, with big beautiful beds, Frette linens and contemporary fabrics, lack for nothing and the ‘contemporary Cotswolds’ food is locally sourced and seasonal with daily specials on the menu. This is the sort of place, small but perfect, where you can have a romantic supper or a family feast, a lazy lunch and a slap-up breakfast, all in a pretty northern Cotswolds hamlet close to Stratford-upon-Avon. NOTA BENE... Just one mile from the famous Fosse Way, the building once housed the local blacksmith’s and in the 18th century it became a popular coaching inn. Doubles from £110 + 44 (0)1608 682635; fuzzyduckarmscote.com

THE LYGON ARMS BROADWAY, WORCESTERSHIRE

When the venerable Lygon Arms was revamped a couple of years ago, it wasn’t just its guests who were pleased. ‘Everyone in town is thrilled,’ said the ice cream vendor. ‘It’s the centrepiece of our village and we are so glad it’s back on form.’ Broadway can indeed be proud once more of its historic coaching inn where both Charles I and Oliver Cromwell dallied during the Civil War and whose former guests include Edward VII, Elizabeth Taylor and Prince Philip. Now it has joined Chewton Glen (page 77) and Cliveden (page 92) in the stable of Iconic Luxury Hotels and a multi-million-pound refurbishment programme has left it looking superb. There are many delights: more lounges (for cocktails, light meals, afternoon tea) than you can quite believe, a huge, unexpected garden and a sybaritic spa and pool, plus 86 bedrooms beautifully decorated by Anita Rosato. Most impressive of all is The Lygon Bar & Grill: glossy, glamorous and fun. NOTA BENE... Roundhead or Royalist? Pledge your allegiance by choosing between the Cromwell Room for private dining or the King Charles I suite to spend the night. Doubles from £165 + 44 (0)1386 852255; lygonarmshotel.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 131

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

NO. 38 THE PARK CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Part of the brilliant Lucky Onion Group (see No. 131, below, and the Wheatsheaf Inn, page 135), this fine Georgian house, tucked away in the centre of Cheltenham, combines the independence of a B&B with the luxury of a hotel. Whether you take just a room or the entire house, you’ll feel completely at home. Inside, everything is sensual and textured, from plump, velvet-padded headboards and mohair throws, to oversized lamps and vast log baskets. Bathrooms are heaven, with underfloor heating and a mix of freestanding zinc baths and double showers. During the day, the house is an oasis of calm; in the evening it’s the setting for the award-winning Prithvi restaurant, offering Indian fine dining with a difference. Premium British produce and South Asian flavours are combined to create truly extraordinary dishes – it’s without question one of the most unique dine and stay experiences in the country. NOTA BENE... Just a stone’s throw from the infamous Cheltenham Racecourse, it’s the perfect bolthole for a large group of racing enthusiasts during national hunt season. Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1242 822929; no38thepark.com

NO. 131 CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

The hip place to stay in Cheltenham: classic on the outside, contemporary inside, with hangouts and hideaways aplenty for relaxed daytime get-togethers. There’s an exciting new addition called The House, with eight fabulous bedrooms, sun terraces, a stunning glasshouse bar and other event spaces: an exclusive haven for private celebrations or weddings. Back at No. 131, the elegance of the upstairs restaurant is complemented by the relaxed buzz of the downstairs late-night bar and Cheltenham hotspot, Gin & Juice, where you can work your way through a list of 400 gins and dance the night away every weekend with resident DJs. As for the seasonal, carefully sourced food, menus range from Afternoon Pickings to Feasts, and there’s even a coffee menu, including 131’s own unique house blend. The 19 bedrooms, in three different categories, are adorable cocoons with divine beds, bold fabrics, original artwork from some of the UK’s biggest names and period bathrooms for a touch of old-fashioned luxury. NOTA BENE... It has the best parties in town, with impromptu sets from the likes of Jamie Cullum & Gregory Porter. Need we say more? Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1242 822939; no131.com 132 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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THE COTSWOLDS

THE SWAN ASCOTT-UNDER-WYCHWOOD, OXFORDSHIRE

This 16th-century timbered inn, complete with inglenook fireplaces, reclaimed wooden floors and a large central bar, has become the latest in Sam and Georgie Pearman’s new Country Creatures collection of delightful and stylish rural boltholes (see also The Talbot in Yorkshire, page 177). You’ll find seven refurbished bedrooms and a family cottage, all balancing comfort and luxury in equal measure, with antique and modern art pieces, natural linens, velvets and printed fabrics, and Georgie’s 100 Acres Apothecary products in the bathrooms. In the dining room, exposed timber and Cotswold stone create an intimate setting, while the garden terrace has firepits and painted wooden planters. Expect the best of British and European produce from head chef Adam Abbott, previously of The Wild Rabbit and The Slaughters Manor House. Intrigued by the white truffle, rollright, wild mushroom and roasted garlic tarte flambée? Roll up, it’s on the menu. NOTA BENE... 16 local women, known as the Ascott Martyrs, were imprisoned in 1873 for co-founding the National Union of Agricultural Workers; Queen Victoria later pardoned them. Doubles from £100 + 44 (0)1993 832332; swanascott.com

THORNBURY CASTLE THORNBURY, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Thornbury Castle is the real deal: so real that Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn stayed here and Princess Mary, later Mary I, lived here. After centuries as a picturesque ruin, the Howard family transformed it in Victorian times into a splendid private residence. All the panelling and decorative features are either original or hand-crafted reproductions, including much of the furniture and tapestry wall-hangings. Spiral staircases lead to 27 unique, romantic bedchambers, most with coronet or four-poster beds. Their baronial style has been cleverly updated with 21st-century luxuries: rooms are well-heated with opulent bathrooms and optional in-room spa treatments. The magnificent Tudor gardens, being restored to their full glory, comprise formal areas, a vineyard, kitchen garden, wild flower meadow and heritage orchard. Thornbury’s fine dining options include the atmospheric Tudor Hall and a private dining room in the original dungeon. Best of all, it’s an authentic, magnificent, thundering castle. NOTA BENE... In 1535, King Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn spent ten nights of their honeymoon at the castle. Doubles from £199 +44 (0)1454 281182; thornburycastle.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 133

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE TROUT AT TADPOLE BRIDGE BUCKLAND MARSH, OXFORDSHIRE

What a delightful spot. It’s here that the infant Thames is at its most peaceful, slipping past miles of understated countryside, rich in wildlife. Downstream from Tadpole Bridge are the wildflower meadows and wading birds of the Chimney Meadows Nature Reserve; across the fields is Bampton, one of the prettiest villages in the county. Kelmscott Manor lies farther along the river, while Blenheim Palace and Cotswold Water Park are within easy reach. It’s hard to think of a better base for a weekend away. The neat, old brick inn has all the hallmarks of a carefully modernised pub with rooms, one that adds up to an appealing, unpretentious, family-friendly whole. Winning ingredients include lovely bedrooms that make you stop in surprise; a clutch of faithful regulars propping up the bar; hearty classics on the dinner menu, which makes the most of fresh fish and local game, served in an elegant dining room; and cheerful local staff. NOTA BENE... Many customers arrive by boat: The Trout’s garden runs down to the water, where there are moorings for patrons and guests alike. Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1367 870382; troutinn.co.uk

WHATLEY MANOR MALMESBURY, WILTSHIRE

This beautiful Cotswold manor house hotel, set in 12 acres of gorgeous English gardens, makes a popular choice for Londoners who crave a grown up getaway. Whatley is committed to sustainability and has recently achieved Earthcheck accreditation; enquire about their Simply Sustainable Stay package. Close to the quaint market town of Malmesbury, it offers 23 newly redecorated, and luxuriously furnished rooms. Unwind in the Aquarias Spa, featuring an indoor/outdoor hydrotherapy pool, a thermal suite including a Himalayan salt cabin and Natura Bissé Pure Air Bubble. Relax in the 26 stunning garden areas – a constant reminder why going green must be made a priority. Executive chef Niall Keating’s innovative, seasonal cooking quickly earned him a Michelin star. His menu draws inspiration from Japanese, Korean and classic French cooking. Grey’s Brasserie has smart looks and a sophisticated brasserie vibe. Take a seat around the tapas bar in the new Green Room, where you can chat to the chefs while they work and learn about the food they are creating. NOTA BENE... Highgrove House is just a few miles away from Whatley Manor. Doubles from £260 +44 (0)1666 822888; whatleymanor.com 134 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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THE COTSWOLDS

THE WHEATSHEAF INN NORTHLEACH, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

This beautifully decorated former coaching inn serves as both a hub for the local community and a welcome 17th-century watering hole for those exploring the beautiful Cotswolds. It combines an informal, welcoming atmosphere with all the attributes of a fully-fledged hotel, including a glamorous private dining room, a relaxing sitting room and perfectly manicured courtyard and outdoor dining space. Locals crowd into the casual country bar for drinks and light meals, or dine under the beady eyes of the doughty Wills tobacco family, whose early 20th-century portraits decorate one wall of the restaurant, gleaming with polished wood. The 14 bedrooms, imaginatively decorated, are elegantly equipped, with deeply comfy Hypnos beds, Egyptian cotton linens and original artworks. As for the locally sourced, simple rustic food, it doesn’t miss a beat. (Don’t shirk the devilled kidneys for breakfast.) Rambling, centuries-old inns can be hard to modernise, but the Wheatsheaf Inn is a triumph. NOTA BENE... The Wheatsheaf was the first hotel in The Lucky Onion portfolio – named after the then head chef’s ‘lucky onion’ mascot. Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1451 860244; cotswoldwheatsheaf.com

WOOLLEY GRANGE BRADFORD ON AVON, WILTSHIRE

The homely, relaxed atmosphere of this Jacobean manor house, the original Luxury Family Hotel, puts you immediately at ease. Its wood-panelled interior, open fires and antique furnishings are impressive but not pretentious, and it’s unmatched for making children and dogs welcome. The 14-acre garden is one big adventure playground, with swings, play houses and dipping pond. There are indoor and outdoor swimming pools, the complimentary Woolley Bears Den children’s club and the Hen House for older children. Adult treats include great food, a luxurious Elemis spa, roaring log fires and a terrace for champagne on summer evenings. The bedrooms are both family friendly and full of character. For parents with younger children, take advantage of the baby listening service, don your glad rags and head for a superb dinner, prepared by award-winning chef Jethro Lawrence, using fresh produce from the kitchen garden and the best local suppliers. NOTA BENE... Once a medieval wool town, Bradford on Avon went on to pioneer rubber production before becoming the quintessential Cotswold artisan town, with quaint cottages and lots of nooks and alleyways to explore. Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1225 864705; woolleygrangehotel.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 135

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Philip Durkin, The Spillway. Torside, Glossop, Derbyshire Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 12 (AA Publishing, Â£25)

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Mid Country With a proud heritage of making and crafting, several buzzing university towns and more edible national treasures than any other region, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nothing whatsoever middling about the Midlands

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Rutland Water was made in 1975 by flooding the villages in two valleys Hambleton Hall has held a Michelin star since 1982

Middle Ground A region rooted in mining and manufacturing, the Mid Country continues to come up with the goods

he Mid Country’s cultural and culinary appeal is no longer lost in the shadows of its mouthier metropolises: Manchester, Liverpool and Newcastle. Leicestershire alone can claim the creation of Stilton, Red Leicester and the Melton Mowbray pork pie (which you should buy from Dickinson & Morris at Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe – baked there since 1851), while Loughborough University honed the competitive edge of sporting stars including Lord Sebastian Coe and Paula Radcliffe. A more mythic local legend, but one of its biggest and best, is Nottingham’s hero, Robin Hood. He famously hid in Sherwood Forest, where visitors can now put their archery to the test or complete a bushcraft course. Folklore aside, the Mid Country has its historical heels firmly wedged Lord Coe in the raw materials of the Industrial started his Revolution and is still a thriving sporting career at manufacturing centre. To experience Loughborough its roots (and film locations from Peaky Blinders and Stan & Ollie) visit Dudley’s Black Country Living Museum. And for those who are potty about pottery there’s the ‘World Capital of Ceramics’, Stoke-on-Trent, home to the World of Wedgwood centre, the Emma Bridgewater factory and Gladstone Pottery Museum.

Melton Mowbray pies are world-famous

SEE

Founded as a monastic house in the 12th century, Nottingham’s Newstead Abbey was later home to Lord Byron. Now visitors can explore its eclectic medieval, Victorian and Gothic Revival interiors, plus more than 300 acres of parkland, with water features fed by the River Leen. Finish the day with a cuppa in the courtyard of the south-west wing. newsteadabbey.org.uk Forget Bacon and rarefied disputes about who really wrote Hamlet. Ask yourself instead how Shakespeare’s work would have turned out without his inspiring muse, Anne Hathaway. Visit the pretty 500-year-old cottage, where she grew up. shakespeare.org.uk

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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; REX FEATURES; © TOM PRICE

EAT

Once a Victorian coach house, the striking industrial feel of the Alchemilla restaurant in Nottingham is like a mouthwatering hors d’oeuvre to dinner. Plant-based and creative, Alex Bond works wonders with chocolate, liquorice and beetroot. It has to be tasted to be believed. alchemillarestaurant.uk A day spent walking in the Peak District comes to a comfortable end at the Duncombe Arms, close to Ashbourne in Staffordshire. This beautiful country pub is run seamlessly by a local couple. duncombearms.co.uk Hambleton Hall, a survivor of the deliberate 1975 flooding of Middle Hambleton village in order to create Rutland Water’s huge artificial lake, is a fine dining restaurant with the UK’s longest-retained Michelin star (since 1982). hambletonhall.com South of Birmingham, award-winning Moseley Farmers’ Market has canopied stalls at the Victorian crossroads – the perfect place to source fresh local produce for cooking up a storm back home. moseleyfarmersmarket.org.uk

MID COUNTRY

Sarah Horne’s ceramics with botanical illustrations

BUY

Sarah Horne Botanicals in Royal Leamington Spa is internationally renowned and has reached the national finals of the UK Flower Shop of the Year four times. But perishable plants aren’t even the best thing about this place: Horne’s delicate pen-and-ink botanical illustrations adorn chinaware, scented candles and beautiful big vases. sarahhornebotanicals.com As well as browsing the selection of handcrafted ceramics, fashion, glassware, textiles and artwork at Debbie Bryan’s shop in Nottingham Lace Market, you can view her unique collection of original technical illustrations, trims, fabrics and tablecloths – all relics of Nottingham’s industrial lace heritage, repurposed as display props in the shop and tea room. debbiebryan.co.uk

The Trentham Estate in Staffordshire is an entertainment hub full of surprises and fit for all the family. The children will be mesmerised, first by the Monkey Forest, whose inhabitants live as freely as they would in Algeria or Morocco, and then by the Treetop Adventure course, where they can monkey around themselves. Anyone who wants to maintain the pretence of being an adult should explore Trentham Gardens, especially the Italianate section, recently revived by Tom Stuart-Smith, and the Floral Labyrinth and Rivers of Grass, planted by Piet Oudolf – two legendary Chelsea Gold Medallists leading you to Capability Brown’s spectacular mile-long lake. trentham.co.uk It’s apt that one of the big attractions of the Mid Country, with its rich industrial heritage, is Northamptonshire’s Nene Valley Railway at Stibbington. So end your tour by hopping on a steam train to Yarwell, where The Angel Inn – or The Black Horse at nearby Nassington – both offer good pub lunches, just a short walk away. nvr.org.uk

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; REX FEATURES; © TOM PRICE

Newstead Abbey, Lord Byron’s old digs

W H E N

Anne Hathaway’s Cottage

T O

G O

MARCH & JUNE

MAY & NOVEMBER

JUNE & JULY

Staffordshire’s Uttoxeter Racecourse is a historic National Hunt track with 25 diverse annual fixtures, including the Midlands Grand National in March and the Summer Cup in June. uttoxeterracecourse.co.uk

Stratford-upon-Avon celebrates its esteemed literary heritage with a biannual festival full of debate, ideas, celebrity author events and workshops. stratfordliterary festival.co.uk

Book tickets to an opera at Nevill Holt in Leicestershire. The prelude to the show is in the grounds, which are a showcase for sculpture from some of Britain’s best artists, including Conrad Shawcross and Nic Fiddian-Green. nevillholtopera.co.uk

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BARNSDALE LODGE OAKHAM, RUTLAND

Now in its 30th year of trading since this Exton Estate farmhouse was converted by the owner, The Honourable Thomas Noel, Barnsdale Lodge Hotel has 46 individually decorated bedrooms with views of the countryside and private courtyard, as well as a plethora of original features including flagstone hallways, sash windows and cast iron stoves. Today the hotel is run with great passion by managing director Ed Burrows and, for the quality of the rooms, food and location, represents superb value for money. Fresh, locally sourced produce are the basis of the restaurant’s sumptuous dishes, lovingly created by Executive Chef, David Bukowicki. As well as two dining rooms, the garden room is the perfect spot to relax and enjoy a coffee. Nearby, the picturesque towns of Oakham, Uppingham and Stamford offer boutique shopping for the most discerning visitors. NOTA BENE... A stone’s throw from Rutland Water; the hotel is an exceptional base for sailing, fishing, walking and exploring Rutland, England’s smallest county. Doubles from £99 for B&B +44 (0)1572 724678; barnsdalelodge.co.uk

THE CAVENDISH HOTEL BASLOW, DERBYSHIRE

For a warm Derbyshire welcome and a delightful setting with panoramic views, this 250-year-old coaching inn-cum-country house hotel on the Chatsworth Estate ticks all the boxes. Guests can walk across parkland and fields dotted with Limousin cattle towards Chatsworth House, resplendent after its ten-year restoration, with gleaming sandstone, gilded windows and carvings. The Cavendish maintains the personal touch: interiors overseen by the Duchess of Devonshire, supremely comfortable bedrooms, walls crammed with artwork and a thrilling dining experience, especially at the chef’s table amid the bustle of the kitchen, plus marmalade to take home. The sublime cooking of head chef Adam Harper, a Roux Scholarship finalist, served in the elegant Gallery restaurant and open-all-day Garden Room, is matched by a much lauded wine list. One thing’s for certain, once you’ve soaked up the views and feeling of tranquillity and relaxation, you won’t want to leave. NOTA BENE... The Cavendish was formerly owned by the Duke of Rutland but became the property of the Duke of Devonshire in 1830, reputedly won at the card table. Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1246 582311; cavendishbaslow.co.uk 140 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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MID COUNTRY

THE ELMS ABBERLEY, WORCESTERSHIRE

There’s no better place to stay in this beautiful corner of the country, with the West Midlands Safari Park, Severn Valley Railway and gardens, lakes and amazing fountains of Witley Court close at hand, among other attractions. And then there’s the ten acres of gardens and grounds, with tennis and croquet, that surround this fine hotel, at its heart a Queen Anne mansion built in 1710 by Thomas White, a pupil of Sir Christopher Wren. It’s a stately place, but homely too – just right for a relaxing country break and enhanced by its spoiling spa. Here’s the place to unwind and refresh whether on a full spa break, or just indulging in a treatment or two. The house is beautifully decorated in classic country house style, overflowing with deep sofas, period features and fine pictures and furniture, and the homely, elegant bedrooms are just right for a comfy night. Dine in style in Brookes restaurant, take tea on the terrace, lunch in the cosy Library Bar – perfection. NOTA BENE... Each room is named after an apple or pear variety found in the local area. Many also feature in the hotel’s own orchard. Doubles from £115 +44 (0)1299 896666; theelmshotel.co.uk

HAMBLETON HALL OAKHAM, RUTLAND

Of all the luxury British country house hotels that have opened in the last half-century, just one, Hambleton Hall, has remained impervious to fortune and is as fresh, magical and enveloping as the day its owners, Tim and Stefa Hart, first welcomed guests nearly 40 years ago. Contented but never complacent, it offers sophisticated yet deeply comfortable classic English interiors, the brilliant, locally sourced cooking of chef Aaron Patterson (the hotel has held a Michelin star for a record 35 unbroken years) and a joyous wine list curated by revered sommelier Dominique Baduel. There’s a swimming pool, tennis court, kitchen garden and views across Hambleton’s south-facing terrace and formal gardens that take your breath away. After an afternoon in the fresh air, Hambleton’s many aficionados return to their haven, where loyal key staff – general manager, restaurant manager, chef, sommelier, housekeeper, receptionist, laundress – have notched up 200 years of continual service between them. NOTA BENE... Noël Coward studied the manners of the upper classes here in the 1920s. Doubles from £295 +44 (0)1572 756991; hambletonhall.com 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 141

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

HAMPTON MANOR HAMPTON-IN-ARDEN, WEST MIDLANDS

Give yourselves a treat and spend a night or two at this brilliant address. Run by a creative, hard-working and determined young couple, with an equally motivated team behind them, Hampton Manor is refreshingly full of life and imagination. In the vein of THE PIG hotels, James and Fjona Hill have created a place that’s laid back, fun and full of stylish, thoughtful touches, including spoiling bedrooms. The Parlour is a spacious and glamorous place to indulge in a memorable afternoon tea or sip an inventive cocktail, while the Michelin-starred Peel’s Restaurant is set in a gem of a panelled dining room, decorated with beautiful handpainted Fromental wallpaper, with food to match. Staff are dressed casually in chinos and tweed waistcoats... Indeed it’s the little touches that count: fire pits on the terrace, a Lalani & Co tea bar, handsome waiters who are funny too, spirited room information and spa treatments. All in all, Hampton Manor is the business. NOTA BENE... An estate once owned by 19th-century prime minister Sir Robert Peel, Hampton Manor continues to host some of the most forward-thinking business people. Doubles from £170 +44 (0)1675 446080; hamptonmanor.com

HART’S HOTEL NOTTINGHAM

Hart’s is an award-winning 32-bedroom boutique hotel in Nottingham city centre with a private car park and secluded garden. One of the highest-rated hotels in the region, it was purpose-built on the old ramparts of Nottingham Castle in 2003, with striking lines, curved buttresses, a dashing yet welcoming lobby and a softly-furnished, lightfilled residents’ bar. Bedrooms are faultlessly equipped, with high ceilings and plenty of natural light. Eight have private terraces with access directly into the garden, and most inward-facing rooms present an unexpected bonus: far-flung views across the city to the countryside beyond. In the foreground is the Park Estate, notable Victorian residences begun by the Duke of Newcastle in the 1820s and now a conservation area. In the restaurant, Hart’s Kitchen, you'll encounter modern British cooking at its best – no extravagant flights of fancy, but first-class dishes created using only the freshest seasonal ingredients. NOTA BENE... A favourite hotel for celebrities, including Cliff Richard, there are several signed photographs in the restaurant. Doubles from £139 +44 (0)1159 881900; hartsnottingham.co.uk 142 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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MID COUNTRY

LANGAR HALL NOTTINGHAM

The transformation of Langar Hall from private house to hotel is the achievement of Imogen Skirving who, over 26 years, transformed her apricot-washed Georgian house into an instantly likeable home-from-home, blending personality with country house charm. Though Imogen died three years ago, aged 78, all is not lost: she lives on in the terrific portrait that graces the pillared hall and in her granddaughter Lila, who took over the reins aged 22, and continues to ensure that nothing – including the vibrant atmosphere – has changed. The food (‘classic English with a twist’), from long-standing executive chef Gary Booth, is better than ever, and Michael, the maître d’, remains an integral part of Langar’s appeal. With 13 adorable bedrooms, the house stands next to the village church, surrounded by a mature garden and overlooking medieval carp ponds. Imogen’s aim was to allow her magical house to survive into the 21st century, and it continues to do so. NOTA BENE... There’s always been a strong female line at Langar Hall: Imogen Skirving’s great-grandmother bought the house in 1860, and her grandmother started the local WI. Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1949 860559; langarhall.com

MALLORY COURT LEAMINGTON SPA, WARWICKSHIRE

Part of the Eden Collection of hotels, including the splendid Bovey Castle in Devon (see page 45), Mallory Court is the sort of country-house pad that has it all: rolling countryside, good food, a fine spa and gorgeous bedrooms, plus one of the country’s greatest landmarks, Warwick Castle, down the road (not to mention Stratfordupon-Avon just 14 miles away). The Grade II-listed, Lutyens-style house, completed in 1916, is charming, with wood panelling, leaded windows and a terrace overlooking landscaped gardens and burbling water features. In contrast is the Orchard House, tucked among the trees in the hotel’s ten-acre grounds, with the sparkling Elan Spa, including an outdoor vitality pool and glazed sauna. On the first floor are 12 sleek bedrooms; choose between these and the more classic rooms in the main house. Food is a highlight: the grand Dining Room for a treat, the Brasserie for casual meals and the Spa Café for refreshing breakfasts to start the day. NOTA BENE... If you can tear yourself away from the hydrotherapy pool at Elan Spa, visit the historic Regency Royal Pump Rooms in Leamington Spa, just down the road. Doubles from £129 +44 (0)1926 330214; mallory.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 143

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE PEACOCK AT ROWSLEY ROWSLEY, DERBYSHIRE

Charming and elegant, The Peacock at Rowsley is a stylish boutique hotel and celebrated gastronomic destination, where guests can expect first class service, comfortable bedrooms and superb food. Built in the 1600s, and a former dower house for Haddon Hall, it's been a hotel since 1820. Today it showcases the perfect blend of traditional and contemporary design, with a sense of the family history of the hotel’s owner, Lord Edward Manners, including delightful sketches by his great-grandmother of the great and good of her day. There are 15 distinctively decorated bedrooms with gleaming marble bathrooms, a fine dining restaurant (look for the carved mice in the original Mousey Thompson furniture) and a splendidly atmospheric bar. Food is the heart of the place, with acclaimed head chef Dan Smith creating new menus each season, including a spectacular nine-course tasting menu. It's an ideal base for exploring the Peak District, with extensive dry fly wild trout fishing on the doorstep. NOTA BENE... Famous guests have included Keira Knightley, Judi Dench and Colin Firth. Doubles from £215 +44 (0)1629 733518; thepeacockatrowsley.com

YE OLDE BELL HOTEL & SPA RETFORD, NOTTINGHAMSHIRE

Ye Olde Bell is a 17th-century former coaching inn halfway between London and Edinburgh, but things have moved on from the time when Ralph Thoresby became lost on horseback on his journey to London (while looking for a drunken companion) and begged a room. Today, in the committed ownership of Paul and Hilary Levack, the hotel blends striking reception rooms, luxurious bedrooms, AA Rosette dining and one of the country’s most impressive spas, plus the character you’d expect from a historic building. The 59 bedrooms, suites and lodges have been individually designed – think oak panelling, antique furniture, gorgeous fabrics, grand beds, plus 21st-century comforts. Downstairs, the stylish art deco Restaurant Bar 1650 and lively St Leger Bistro specialise in fresh, seasonal food. The spa offers exceptional personalised treatments: a startling 'snowstorm’ walk, stonebath steam rooms, indoor sunlight therapy and invigorating spell in the indoor/outdoor vitality pool. NOTA BENE... The eclectic guest list includes Charlie Chaplin, One Direction and Queen Victoria, who has a suite named in her honour. Doubles from £195 +44 (0)1777 705121; yeoldebell-hotel.co.uk 144 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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PROMOTION

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Magical settings, inspired touches and extraordinary spaces: Niche Retreats’ hand-picked properties will make your holiday extra special The Cattle Shed

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SOUTH WEST SERENITY Surf, sail and search for fossils along the seductive shores of the South West. Come together in familyfriendly splendour at Egret View, relax among incredible interiors at Dulcima Cottage, or discover Instagrammable New England charm at Hawks Cay. Let your worries ebb away in the sea salt breezes of Cornwall, Devon and Dorset.

Feathered Nest

WESTERN WONDER

SOUTHERN SPLENDOUR Stroll along the spectacular South Downs shoreline in Sussex, or feel a world away in the Bordeauxlike vineyards of Kent. Explore the bohemian city of Brighton from the trendy Copper House, get close to nature on the private reserve of Birdsong Barn, or relax in the romantic countryside of Saddlehurst Barn.

Cloud-wrapped mountains, vibrant heather moors and imposing heritage – find big skies and even bigger scenery in Yorkshire, Northumberland and the Lake District. Retreat beside the serene shores of Ullswater at Waternook and The Great Barn, relax under star-scattered skies at Feathered Nest or immerse yourself in nature at Mount Hooley Lodge.

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Dave Watts, Felixstowe Sea Defences. Suffolk Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 12 (AA Publishing, Â£25)

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East Anglia Vast flatlands, rich farmland and meandering rivers have drawn Britten, Gainsborough and... Ed Sheeran. From its cathedral cities to seaside towns, the east of England canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fail to wow

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Mackerel with hay-smoked beetroot at The Unruly Pig

Cley, Norfolk

East Anglia’s natural charm has lured artists, musicians and writers for centuries

ou’re in Constable country now, and even if you don’t have the skill to paint those wide skies and flat landscapes, you can still appreciate the raw beauty of eastern England. The spectacular 60-mile Stour Valley path is a good place to start, snaking through Cambridgeshire, Suffolk and Essex into Dedham Vale, which was immortalised in Constable’s paintings. Civilisation has left an equally attractive blueprint on the countryside, with lots of pretty villages to explore. Dedham in Essex, Lavenham in Suffolk and Cley in Norfolk are perhaps best known. For your hit of Millennial Pink – old-school style – visit Cavendish’s famed Suffolk Pink cottages. In the past, East Anglia has attracted the likes of Noël Coward, Humphry Repton and Benjamin Britten. These days you might come across the Norfolk royal set at Sandringham or Delia Smith out in support of her beloved Norwich City team. Then again, there’s Ed Sheeran ‘Sheeranville’ in Suffolk, complete with a pub dedicated to the singer’s wife.

Ickworth Rotunda, built by the eccentric fourth Earl of Bristol

SEE

EAT

You can’t visit Norfolk without a plate of Cromer crab. For cheap and cheerful, nothing beats a crab baguette at the Crab Hut in Brancaster Staithe (letzersseafood.co.uk), but if you’ve got a massive appetite go for ‘The Big One’ at Wells Crab House – a spread that includes locally caught crab, lobster, cockles and crayfish. wellscrabhouse.co.uk Little piggies will love The Unruly Pig near Woodbridge, Suffolk. Chef Dave Wall won Britain’s ‘Best Pub Restaurant Chef’ award this year. Relaxed local pub in feeling, but fine dining in delivery. theunrulypig.co.uk Essex’s loveliest restaurant with rooms, the Flitch of Bacon in Little Dunmow, is also the county’s only Michelin-starred restaurant. It does an excellent seasonal two-course lunch menu for just £25 that makes the most of the ‘larder of Essex’. flitchofbacon.co.uk

Budding Monty Dons must go to Holkham’s Walled Garden, which has 18th-century blueprints. The Victorian greenhouses, resident chickens and thriving bee population of the six-acre walled wonder will leave you green with envy and raring to start espaliering your own patch. holkham.co.uk Dressing top to toe in episcopal purple, the fourth Earl of Bristol was no wallflower, himself becoming something of a European tourist attraction on his travels around Italy. His Suffolk pad, Ickworth, is as flamboyant as his personality, with a rotunda built in the Italianate style. A fascinating hoard of treasures collected on his travels awaits inside. nationaltrust.org.uk

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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; REX FEATURES

Eastern Promise

EAST ANGLIA

Take home a jar of Norfolk saffron

BUY

Saffron, in Norfolk? No, we haven’t lost the plot. Saffron crocuses were traditionally grown across East Anglia (hence place names like Saffron Walden), a livelihood Dr Sally Francis (an Oxford-educated botanist) revived in Burnham Market in 1997. Norfolk Saffron has been hailed by chefs for its high potency. With extra points for sustainable growing practices. norfolksaffron.co.uk You go to Pump Street Bakery for its bread and end up leaving with a bar of its famous bean to bar chocolate. Our favourite is made with bits of leftover Eccles cakes. This Suffolk find is so trendy, it’s already had an east London pop-up. pumpstreetchocolate.com Support local artists at Cambridge Contemporary Crafts, where you’ll find jolly, nostalgic ceramics by Katie Almond, handbound notebooks by Sue Day and linocuts by Sam Marshall which look like they’ve been pulled straight from Aesop’s Fables. cambridgecrafts.co.uk

Sink Farm in Woodbridge has been a colonial training college, a rehabilitation centre for young offenders and a workplace for the unemployed. Now it’s home to the Suffolk Punch Trust, a charity dedicated to protecting the critically endangered Suffolk Punch horse. Kids won’t forget being taught how to braid a horse’s mane, and the rare breed farm also has the oldest registered flock of Suffolk sheep in the world. thesuffolkpunchtrust.co.uk Visit Kate Denton’s studio in Lavenham, where she creates her spirited and dynamic animal sculptures. Her lively take on classical ideas and methods includes mixing straw and pieces of wood into the plaster or clay mix before casting her pieces in bronze. It’s a fascinating insight into the creative working process of one of the UK’s leading figurative sculptors, but do make an appointment first. katedenton.com

Willy Lott’s Cottage features in Constable’s paintings

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; REX FEATURES

Chocolate with Eccles cakes

W H E N

Holkham’s inspiring walled garden in North Norfolk

T O

G O

JUNE

AUGUST TO FEBRUARY

JUNE TO SEPTEMBER

‘My music now has its roots, in where I live and work,’ said Benjamin Britten on moving to Aldeburgh, Suffolk. The town continues to inspire music fans with the critically acclaimed Aldeburgh Festival. Exceptional. snapemaltings.co.uk

Want to get your eye in for the season? Anglia Sporting offers one of the biggest varieties of shooting across Norfolk and Suffolk, including game, rough, simulated, wildfowling and deer stalking. angliasporting.co.uk

Pack a picnic basket and head to one of Cambridge’s many parks, where jazz and brass bands play for free throughout the summer season. Fantastic fun, weather permitting. cambridgelive.org.uk

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BANK HOUSE KING’S LYNN, NORFOLK

Overlooking King’s Staithe Square and the Great Ouse River in the fascinating historic centre of King’s Lynn, Bank House is a glorious Georgian townhouse. It was here in the 1780s that Joseph Gurney, later a founder of Barclays, set up his first bank; converted into a stylish, relaxed and exceptionally good value hotel in 2008, it is now run by Michael Baldwin of South Quay Hotels. Upstairs, 12 chic, individually decorated bedrooms comfortably blend old and new with antique furniture and modern art. Downstairs, the brasserie restaurant occupies Gurney’s purpose-built Counting House, now a buzzing local favourite serving highly recommended food. The adjacent bar, once the bank manager’s office, is open all day for tea, coffee and cakes, as well as drinks and cocktails. There’s also a large sunny room with sofas and comfy seating, as well as the Billiards Room and the Boardroom, ideal for private parties. If it’s warm, the riverside terrace offers the chance for al fresco drinks. NOTA BENE... Bank House was originally built by a wealthy Georgian wine merchant who shipped imported wine downriver to the Cambridge colleges and the Bishop of Ely. Doubles from £115 +44 (0)1553 660492; thebankhouse.co.uk

BLAKENEY HOTEL BLAKENEY, NORFOLK

Loved by generations of the same families, the Blakeney stands in prime position on the charming quayside of one of North Norfolk’s prettiest coastal villages, with wonderful views across the estuary and salt marshes. The familyowned hotel has been sensitively modernised in recent years and is now full of pretty fabrics in rooms that are white, light, stylish and very comfortable. There are panoramic views of the stunning marsh landscape from the bar, terrace and restaurant, where hearty breakfasts, light lunches and locally sourced, seasonal, à la carte and table d’hôte dinner menus are offered, enhanced by prompt, polite, traditional service. Many of the 60 rooms (including singles) also have wonderful views of the estuary; others have windows, balconies or patios looking onto the hotel gardens. They're all charming, unfussy and seaside fresh, with crisp white linens on excellent beds. There’s an elegant indoor pool, steam room, sauna, spa bath and mini-gym. NOTA BENE... Built in the 1920s, with its perfect waterside setting and view of Blakeney Point, in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the hotel reflects the gracious style of that era. Doubles from £268 +44 (0)1263 740797; blakeneyhotel.co.uk 150 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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EAST ANGLIA

THE BRUDENELL ALDEBURGH, SUFFOLK

A chic, contemporary hotel with Aldeburgh’s broad shingle beach at its feet – a breezy seaside location that's echoed in painted tongue and groove panelling in reception and nautical touches in the lounge and bright, sunny bedrooms. The airy restaurant, Seafood & Grill, with the seascape on show, is the ideal setting for the fresh, local food that head chef, Darran Hazelton, is so passionate about. As you’d expect, his menus are strong on fish, delivered straight to the door. The free-range meat is also local and there are vegetarian options. The relaxed atmosphere extends to the restaurant’s hours – it’s open for drinks and light bites all day. There’s a dining terrace, with patio heaters for chillier weather, and the 44 attractive bedrooms have fresh, soothing colour schemes, some with brightly-tiled bathrooms and many with sofa beds for children. NOTA BENE... Guests can enjoy the panoramic vista over the North Sea from the hotel's seafront terrace, restaurant, lounge and private dining room. Choose a sea-facing bedroom too, and be lulled to sleep by the rhythm of the waves, before waking to watch sunrise over the glistening sea. Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1728 452071; brudenellhotel.co.uk

CLEY WINDMILL CLEY-NEXT-THE-SEA, NORFOLK

Cley Windmill is one of the most memorable and enchanting places to stay in Britain. In the late afternoon, when the wind whips across from the sea, there are few greater pleasures than stowing away hats, coats and binoculars (it’s bird-watching country) as you come home to this beautifully restored windmill, complete with sails. Echoes of children’s adventure stories flood back as you climb higher and higher, finally mounting the ladder to the Wheel Room. Downstairs, there’s a beamed, lived-in circular dining room with a blazing fire and antiques, while the cosy lounge, complete with bar, is part of the original 1713 warehouse. Candlelit dinners are just right: convivial affairs with proper country cooking. There are ten rooms, two of which, Dovecote and the new Old Cart Shed, are self-catering cottages in the old stables. The three circular bedrooms in the tower itself have bathrooms ingeniously fitted into challenging nooks and crannies. All are charming and full of character, with views over the waving reed beds to the sea. NOTA BENE... The singer James Blunt used to live at Cley Windmill and Elizabeth Taylor filmed Conspirator here in 1949. Doubles from £159 +44 (0)1263 740209; cleywindmill.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 151

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

CONGHAM HALL KING’S LYNN, NORFOLK

This calm and handsome Georgian house, beautifully cared for by owners Nicholas and Ruth Dickinson, has a special feature: its acclaimed herb gardens, containing almost 400 varieties, plus orchards and a kitchen garden. Inside, a lovely stone floor graces the elegant hall, with its greygreen walls, antique furniture, sofas in front of the fire and vases of fresh garden flowers. To either side is a drawing room and library, and there’s also a slick bar. The airy dining room works both for smart gatherings and relaxed, informal meals. The bedrooms are all impeccable and comfortable, divided between those in the house (the top floor rooms are small but charming) and others in the garden wing, next to the pampering Secret Garden Spa. The house rooms are cool and classical in style, making lovely havens in which to relax. What else? Afternoon tea is a delight here, and then it’s back to those 30 acres of gardens and woodland, among the best in England. NOTA BENE... The Queen Mother would often come for tea and sit in the gardens. Doubles from £135 +44 (0)1485 600250; conghamhallhotel.co.uk

THE DABBLING DUCK GREAT MASSINGHAM, NORFOLK

In picturesque Great Massingham, The Dabbling Duck is a successful village pub, which might never have existed if it hadn’t been for two brave Norfolk farmers who stepped in to save their local from re-development in 2006. A third owner, experienced, hands-on manager Mark Dobby, was brought on board in 2013. He and his wife Sally (a professional photographer, whose striking prints decorate some of the walls) run the pub with great warmth and efficiency. As soon as you walk in, you’re struck by the friendly atmosphere and cosy, rustic decoration – wooden floors, tables and bar, hops hanging from beams, and shelves of books. There are nine bedrooms in total: six fresh and appealing spaces in the upstairs section of the pub, as well as a further three garden rooms. The pub has garnered a well-deserved reputation for its real ales, curated wine list and terrific food, particularly seasonal game dishes, all prepared by skilful chef Dale Smith. In summer you can eat in the attractive garden, where there’s street food, a wood-fired pizza oven and children’s play area. NOTA BENE... The Red Room restaurant’s stone flooring is older than Westminster Abbey. Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1485 520827; thedabblingduck.co.uk 152 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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EAST ANGLIA

THE GREAT HOUSE LAVENHAM, SUFFOLK

In the marketplace of England's finest medieval wool town, with its striking Perpendicular 'wool church' and high street of irresistible antique shops, stands the 14th-century Great House, which was modernised in the 18th century, accounting for its Georgian facade. In 1985 this was turned into a boutique restaurant with rooms and the predominantly French food drew diners from far and wide. Chef patron Guillaume Dericq took over the helm in 2018 and the restaurant has retained its French flavour, along with two AA Rosettes and its acclaimed breakfast. The five stylish bedrooms have names like Montmartre and Versailles and you’ll find large beds – including one majestic Jacobean fourposter – and plenty of spoiling extras and period charm. There’s even part of a 14th-century chimney in one room. Back downstairs, French windows open onto a delightful, stone-paved courtyard for summer dining. NOTA BENE... In 1938 the house was bought by renowned photographer and artist Humphrey Spender, whose brother, the equally renowned poet, Stephen Spender, also stayed there, making it a magnet for artists and poets of the time. Doubles from £129 +44 (0)1787 247431; greathouse.co.uk

THE GUNTON ARMS THORPE MARKET, NORFOLK

Art dealer Ivor Braka’s recreation of a particularly delightful 19th-century coaching inn, with the huge help of interior designer Robert Kime, has been wowing guests ever since it opened in 2011. ‘In the words of Dolly Parton,’ Ivor says ruefully, ‘it took a lot of money to look this cheap.’ The look is helped by the quirkiness of the gabled flint building itself, which sits inside vast, deer-filled Gunton Park. Chef Stuart Tattersall presides over delicious, imaginative dishes, including grills on an open fire, while guests tuck in at sharing tables. There’s a divine residents’ sitting room decorated with paintings by seriously famous artists, courtesy of Ivor. Indeed, the whole place is filled with edgy, sexy art: Tracey Emin, Damien Hirst, you name it. As for the 16 bedrooms, they are enchanting. If you stay in Ellis, look twice at the old prints to the left of the dressing table – but not if you objected to Tracey Emin’s naughty plates above the bar. NOTA BENE... Lillie Langtry, actress and famous beauty, is said to have had assignations with King Edward VII while staying here in the 1890s, when it was the second house to Gunton Hall. Locals still talk about the legendary wild parties. Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1263 832010; theguntonarms.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 153

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18/07/2019 13:00

C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE ICKWORTH HOTEL BURY ST EDMUNDS, SUFFOLK

Of the Luxury Family Hotels group, The Ickworth is surely the most remarkable. For anyone, however aristocratic, it would make an impressive place to stay, but the fact that the East Wing, home to the eccentric Hervey family for almost 200 years, now offers fun and relaxation to families, is remarkable indeed. Central to Ickworth is its vast Rotunda and views over formal gardens and gently rolling countryside. The hotel entrance is flanked by rows of Dubarry boots, and families romp happily about. Babies are looked after in the crèche, while older children revel in the indoor pool or adventure playground. Parents can escape to the treatment rooms and enjoy romantic suppers, thanks to the baby listening service. Bedrooms range from traditional to modern and include interconnecting rooms and suites, plus apartments in Ickworth Lodge, a short walk away. With a dog friendly ethos and 1,800 acres of parkland to explore, it's also perfect for four-legged friends. NOTA BENE... Completed in 1829, Ickworth's grandeur was influenced by the Italian travels of Frederick Hervey, known as the Bishop-Earl. Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1284 735350; ickworthhotel.co.uk

MAISON TALBOOTH DEDHAM, ESSEX

Overlooking Dedham Vale in Constable country, this handsome Victorian house has a sophisticated interior. Its 12 bedrooms act as the accommodation arm of nearby restaurant Le Talbooth. Both are owned by the Milsom family, who have run the restaurant since 1952 and whose portfolio also includes The Pier at Harwich (see page 156) and Milsoms Kesgrave Hall (see opposite). There’s a lightly applied literary theme to the smartly decorated bedrooms, each bearing a poet’s name and stocked with their works. Along with a breakfast room, heated pool and spa, there’s the sense of being at a private house party. With its courteous personal service, Maison Talbooth particularly suits groups of friends with an event or birthday to celebrate. Breakfast, lunch and a spectacular afternoon tea are served in the Garden Room, while a courtesy car whisks guests to and from Le Talbooth, a half-timbered building with a filmset location on the River Stour. In all, the hotel and restaurant make for a winning combination. NOTA BENE... Idle Waters, a newly refurbished, dog friendly, 16th-century cottage for four can now be rented for self-catering by the riverside. Doubles from £275 +44 (0)1206 322367; milsomhotels.com 154 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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EAST ANGLIA

MILSOMS KESGRAVE HALL KESGRAVE, SUFFOLK

With its exclusive collection of East Anglian hotels, the Milsom Group has the knack of creating sophisticated yet easy-going and contemporary places to stay. They showed how to do it with Maison Talbooth (see opposite) and The Pier (see page 156), and have done it again with Kesgrave Hall, opened in 2008. An impressive country house, built in 1812, it stands in 38 rambling acres of woods, fields and immaculate, sweeping lawns. Its 23 rooms range from Standard to Best, with Superior, Deluxe and Principal in between: all supremely comfortable and well equipped. Dining is particularly relaxed – the family friendly, all-day restaurant, with its rustic good looks, doesn’t take bookings or have a dress code. Turn up whenever you like, since hotel guests are guaranteed a table. In summer, there’s dining on the glorious covered terrace with views over the lawns. A separate building, The Hangar, can accommodate up to 300 people for weddings and private parties. NOTA BENE... Watch out for the new day spa at Kesgrave Hall: due to open in early spring 2020 it will offer a wide range of treatments for both hotel and visiting guests. Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1473 333741; milsomhotels.com

THE NORFOLK MEAD HOTEL COLTISHALL, NORFOLK

Three cheers for this sophisticated yet gentle address, brilliantly placed for exploring both the Norfolk Broads and Norwich. With a lovely walled garden, perfect for afternoon tea and summer dining, a wildflower mead that borders a pretty tributary of the River Bure and a private lake, this fine Georgian house is a haven. It comes with its own boat, in which you can explore the Broads with a delicious picnic; add a massage or facial in the hotel’s treatment rooms and you have the ingredients for a delightful yet affordable break. Husband and wife team Anna Duttson and James Holliday are the hands-on owners and they revitalised this long-established hotel in 2013, creating 16 contemporary rooms and suites. Anna’s background at the helm of a successful catering company (they both worked for McLaren on the Formula 1 circuit, catering for the team around the world) means that the two AA-rosette food is as refined as the rest. NOTA BENE... The Norfolk Broads are where Lord Nelson learnt to sail; keep an eye out for Britain’s rarest butterfly, the Swallowtail. Doubles from £135 +44 (0)1603 737531; norfolkmead.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 155

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE NORTHGATE BURY ST EDMUNDS, SUFFOLK

There is a wonderful vibe to The Northgate. Its recent refurbishment has transformed the property into a modern restaurant with rooms with a quality yet informal atmosphere. With its striking cocktail bar, fabulous dining room, stylish Chef’s Table (the only one in Bury St Edmunds), huge terrace and ten deeply comfortable bedrooms, guests might have little reason to venture into town. But location and provenance are central to the guest experience. The young, casually dressed staff are both enthusiastic and knowledgeable about the area’s extensive history and attractions, while the food – from highly experienced head chef Greig Young – exceeds guests’ already high expectations. His ‘Taste of East Anglia’ menu – where each small plate celebrates seasonal produce from a specific region within the region – is a big hit. Plus, rates for the individually designed bedrooms and their luxurious en-suite bathrooms are extremely fair. NOTA BENE... The Northgate offers a series of experiences for guests. From cocktails and calligraphy to kitchen demonstrations, these crafted experiences are fast becoming yet another fantastic reason for guests to visit. Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1284 339604; thenorthgate.com

THE PIER HARWICH, ESSEX

Designed to resemble a Venetian palazzo, The Pier is a striking hotel built in 1864 to accommodate passengers departing from Harwich for the continent. The diminutive Ha’penny Pier, so called for its admittance charge, is still intact opposite. The Pier Hotel sports a light and airy interior with a fabulous bar, terrace and relaxed first floor restaurant, with five sought-after tables on the balcony. The views from here are mesmerising and the setting perfect for champagne, oysters, local lobster and the freshest Dover sole. Bedrooms are either upstairs or in a building next door. All are breezy, attractive and very good value – from six of them, you can soak up the view: the Stour and Orwell estuaries snaking into the distance, the pier at your feet and boats beetling about on the water. Owned for over 40 years by the Milsom family (see Maison Talbooth, page 155, and Milsoms Kesgrave Hall on page 154), The Pier makes a delightfully different spot for a break. NOTA BENE... Go for sunset aperitifs at the ground-level NAVYÄRD bar, with a choice of over 100 gins, plus craft, cask and artisan beers and a Nordic-influenced small plate menu. Doubles from £135 +44 (0)1255 241212; milsomhotels.com 156 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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EAST ANGLIA

THE ROSE & CROWN SNETTISHAM, NORFOLK

If you love to be cosy, to snuggle down in a bed dressed in white linen and listen to the wind as it whips along the coast, knowing that in the morning a famous Great British Breakfast awaits, then you will surely love The Rose & Crown. Upstairs, the bedrooms are full of uncomplicated charm, yet lack for nothing. Downstairs, this quintessential English inn, drenched in character, is full of hidden corners, old beams, log fires and pamment-tiled floors, with two centuries-old bars – one with the original penny seat and bread oven, the other home to the Snettisham Cricket Club, complete with honours board. The highly-regarded food is served in three dining rooms, where the regularly changing menu includes local seafood, samphire, asparagus, strawberries and game in season. Wildly beautiful Snettisham Beach is home to thousands of migrating birds, including huge ‘V’ formations of geese that fly overhead, morning and evening, throughout the winter. Magical. NOTA BENE... The Rose & Crown dates back to the 14th century, when it’s said to have been built to cater for the medieval craftsmen building Snettisham’s magnificent church. Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1485 541382; roseandcrownsnettisham.co.uk

THE SUN INN DEDHAM, ESSEX

Privately owned since 2003, the Sun stands in the centre of Dedham and the heart of Constable Country, a charming base for visiting this beautiful area. They provide bikes so you can easily explore the banks of the Stour and Dedham Vale, or indeed go boating on the river, if it’s fine. The bright yellow façade of this handsome old coaching inn, with its distinctive pub sign, beckons you to an interior that manages to be airy, spacious and properly pubby, with a mix of beams and wooden floors, comfy sofas in contemporary colours, log-burning stove and bar lined with jolly locals and their dogs. As for the food, you can take a picnic while you explore, stay in to graze at the bar, or feast in the dining room on fish from Mersea day boats, meat from rare breeds, wild game in season and, when possible, fruit and veg picked that very morning. The seven bedrooms are sophisticated havens, brightly decorated and sumptuously equipped. NOTA BENE... Piers Baker, The Sun’s owner, once cooked lunch for Sting, who then went for a walk in the village, causing a stunned driver to have a minor collision. Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1206 323351; thesuninndedham.com 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 157

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE SWAN AT LAVENHAM HOTEL & SPA LAVENHAM, SUFFOLK

The medieval wool town of Lavenham is dense with pretty half-timbered buildings and The Swan is one of the most eye-catching. Inside, its style mixes traditional and contemporary to perfection, proving that even a 15th-century coaching inn can look fresh. There are sofas in front of open fires and armchairs tucked into cosy corners. Light meals are served in the Brasserie overlooking the garden, a delightful space defined by pretty leafpattern curtains, attractive blue chairs, matching glassware and the original mellow brick floor. The impressive Gallery Restaurant, a faithful reconstruction of a medieval galleried hall, makes a memorable venue for dinner, complete with pianist. The comfortable bedrooms, many with timber beams, are found along an amusing maze of twisting corridors. Indeed, the real joy of staying in The Swan is that it’s all so jolly old but still thriving in very good hands, with the lovely Weavers’ House Spa in a modern annexe behind. NOTA BENE... The relaxed Airmen’s Bar is full of World War II memorabilia, including autographs written on the walls by members of the US Air Force, who were stationed nearby. Doubles from £165 +44 (0)1787 247477; theswanatlavenham.co.uk

THE SWAN SOUTHWOLD, SUFFOLK

In the delightful, oh-so-English seaside town of Southwold, with its beach huts, pier, pretty shops, pubs and churches – plus Adnams, its famous family brewery and wine merchants – The Swan (owned by Adnams) has long been cherished by residents and summer visitors alike. It was rescued from a gentle, demure ageing in 2017 by a generous top-to-toe refurbishment. When it reopened in October of that year, something electrifying had taken place behind the striking Georgian façade: a new-look interior that starts with shocking pink armchairs in reception and carries through to bedrooms that are soothing and beautifully equipped, with a fresh and modern seaside palette. There are three categories to choose from: Excellent, Fabulous and Outstanding. While the delightfully quirky Tap Room is a great place for a drink, a bite or lunch, the convivial, attractively decorated Still Room serves award-winning food. The addition of butlers (all delightful characters and local residents) has added another fillip to this heart-warming, much-loved seaside hotel. NOTA BENE... The earliest record of brewing taking place at The Swan dates back to 1345. Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1502 722186; theswansouthwold.co.uk 158 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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EAST ANGLIA

UNIVERSITY ARMS CAMBRIDGE

The city’s oldest hotel is now, after an £80m rebuild, by far its best and most exciting. The 19th-century façade facing the green parkland of Parker’s Piece has been restored, with the addition of an extra floor for suites with private terraces. The hotel's articulated roofline is ingenious, but the real triumph of architect John Simpson’s neoclassical design is the elegant new porte-cochère on Regent Street, which heralds the building with stately impact and graciously invites visitors through one of three handsome front doors. One is for guests staying in one of the 192 suitably bookish and eclectic rooms, painted in shades of Cambridge blue. The additional two are for Parker’s Tavern, the all-day bistro and bar, with interiors (like the bedrooms) by man of the moment Martin Brudnizki. This clever and charming evocation of a college dining hall is graced by an equally clever and charming menu from hugely talented chef Tristan Welch. It’s the town’s new culinary hotspot: old school but hip too. NOTA BENE... Parker’s Piece is where the original rules of football were invented by the university’s team, adopted by the FA in 1863. Doubles from £143 +44 (0)1223 606066; universityarms.com

THE VICTORIA HOLKHAM, NORFOLK

One of the great pleasures in life is walking on the beach at Holkham, an unspoilt and beautiful stretch of sand, memorably featured in the closing scenes of Shakespeare in Love. Behind it stands fabulous Holkham Hall and its 25,000-acre estate, seat of the Earl of Leicester and rich in history, architecture and wildlife. And then there’s the Earl’s gorgeous brick and flint inn, The Victoria, affectionately known as The Vic, right there at the gates of the Palladian house. It has never looked better: a series of lovely sitting rooms, bar and dining room with airy conservatory extension, where delicious, locally sourced, seasonal food is served. The ‘country sports’ atmosphere of The Vic is enhanced by antlers and hunting scenes on the walls and delightful staff appropriately attired in tweed. Bedrooms are lovely too and The Victoria makes a wonderful base for exploring the beach, Hall, estate and the wider North Norfolk Coast. A real gem. NOTA BENE... From the stunning panoramic landscape of Holkham's nature reserve to the old-fashioned beach huts at Wells-next-the-Sea, there's plenty of great walking on the doorstep. Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1328 711008; holkham.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 159

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The North Heaven for hikers and history buffs alike, these spectacular landscapes have long inspired literary greats and painters, while the big cities are veritable powerhouses of culture and culinary delights

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Steve Hall, Father’s Day Trip. Bridlington, Yorkshire Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 12 (AA Publishing, £25)

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Picking garden produce at The Black Swan

Woodruff toast with rhubarb and Oldstead honey at Roots

North Star Dizzying countryside, high-flying chefs, soaring skies and a popping party culture – you won’t look down up North

xploring a Northern beauty spot, even for a weekend, could ignite a creative spark or two. There’s a reason why Wordsworth, the Brontë sisters, Lewis Carroll and Ted Hughes all wrote their literary masterpieces here. Beatrix Potter was a born and bred Londoner and moved to Lake Windermere aged 39. Take note, townies. Northern cities are proud of their industrial heritage and rival London in international culture and music – it’s not just Greggs and gravy that students flock to Manchester, Leeds and Newcastle for. A strong sense of regional identity permeates both town and country; chefs are putting new restaurants on the map and the lakes and fells landscape is unforgettable. Hikers should head to Cumbria and the Lake District for adrenaline spikes caused by needle-pin turns and stray herds of cattle. More easy-going amblers should visit Cheshire or Yorkshire, both of which have the glorious Peaks. Travel west, where Lancashire’s beaches range from jolly Blackpool to quaint Lytham St Annes and Morecambe. Crucially, both have a Booths – the North’s answer to Waitrose.

St Anne’s Pier, Lancashire

The Treehouse at Alnwick Garden

SEE

The Treehouse at Alnwick Garden in Northumberland is one of the largest in the world. Sustainably built and surrounded by leafy lime trees, it’s home to a unique 80-seat restaurant. alnwickgarden.com Also in Northumberland, high up on Black Fell, in a location chosen because it’s England’s first and Europe’s largest International Dark Sky Park, is the Kielder Observatory, where – on rare but breathtaking occasions – it’s possible to see the Northern Lights. Don’t forget to book Aurora Nights in advance. kielderobservatory.org Sticking to the dark side, visit Pendle Hill in Lancashire, famous for its burial site, where the brutally executed Pendle Witches were laid to rest in the 17th century.

Pray for the Northern Lights at Kielder Observatory

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EAT

Tommy Banks, Yorkshire’s chef prodigy and director of new restaurant Roots in York, tempts palates according to three seasonal categories: the ‘preservation season’, ‘hunger gap’ and ‘time of abundance’. Owned as a family business, along with its acclaimed sister venue, the Michelin-starred Black Swan at Olstead, Banks remains chef director of both. rootsyork.com; blackswanoldstead.co.uk If you’re visiting the Toon (aka Newcastle), the best place to eat is House of Tides, another family-run restaurant, where head chef Kenny Atkinson, a born and bred Geordie, boasts the city’s only Michelin star. Though perfect for casual, the restaurant’s interiors are as grand as its Grade I-listed, 16th-century heritage – it was formerly a quayside merchant house. houseoftides.co.uk If you’re not in a Michelin-starred mood, Manchester’s GRUB market satisfies many a sweet or salty craving. It’s the city’s biggest and best street food fair, and pops up every Friday and Saturday. grubmcr.com

THE NORTH

The best way to see Windermere is by boat

BUY

Cumbria has hands down the best service station in the country. Tebay Services was set-up in 1972 when the M6 was built through the Dunning family’s hill farm. Now they work with 70 local Cumbrian producers. Much more exciting than an M&S sarnie. tebayservices.com With a claim to be the most undiscovered and beautiful dale in the Dales (aren’t they all?), Pately Bridge is where you’ll also find The Oldest Sweet Shop in the World. Stock up on Acid Drops, Black Jacks, Pineapple Cubes and Snowies for long hikes. oldestsweetshop.co.uk The Courtyard Dairy won Cheesemonger of the Year in 2013 and it’s still churning. Bestsellers include Kirkham’s Lancashire with its characteristic fluffy, light texture and Hebden Goat, which is made by Gillian and her herd of ten goats – they graced our screens as part of Tom Kerridge’s BBC TV series, Top of the Shops. thecourtyarddairy.co.uk Cooper King Distillery is self-built and also operates sustainably. Take home a bottle to support its good work. cooperkingdistillery.co.uk

When it comes to boating on Windermere, the sky – or lake, rather – is the limit. Boats, ranging from rowing to sailing to self-drive motorboats, can be hired from Waterhead, Low Wood Bay, Bowness and Fell Foot. For those lacking sea legs, a good wet weather activity is the newly-opened Windermere Jetty Museum, where you can see renowned vessels such as ‘Margaret’ – believed to be the oldest sailing boat in Britain – and Beatrix Potter’s tarn boat. The Cleveland Way is a 109-mile trail beginning at Filey, hugging the coast through Scarborough up to Saltburn-by-the-Sea before heading inland to Helmsley. Castles, ancient stones and fishing villages (and some of the best fish and chips around) are regular and ravishing treats strewn along the way. The iconic building of the Bowes Museum in Teesdale displays particularly striking examples of women’s dresses from the 1860s–70s, plus 20th-century haute couture and a comprehensive series of wedding dresses. thebowesmuseum.org.uk

The Oldest Sweet Shop in the World

Tebay: so much more than your average service station

W H E N

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MAY

JULY

OCTOBER

Manchester becomes a hub for the best national and international jazz and blues artists for the month of May. Music seeps down the street from St Ann’s Square, with additional paid gigs taking place in venues throughout the city. manchesterjazz.com

The brilliant Deer Shed Festival was devised for families and this year’s tenth anniversary celebration offers yet more arts, science and music for all in Baldersby Park, North Yorkshire. deershedfestival.com

Dating back to 1951, The Northern Antiques Fair in Harrogate Convention Centre is a must for fine art, design and interiors fans, with over 40 specialist art and antique dealers. northernfair.com

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

ASKHAM HALL ASKHAM, CUMBRIA

If you lean towards staying in homes rather than hotels, head for this magnificent corner of the Lake District, between Ullswater and the Eden Valley. Askham Hall’s mighty yet approachable Grade I-listed ‘pele tower’ (fortified house), was formerly the family home of the Earl and Countess of Lonsdale, whose son, Charlie Lowther, converted it into a hotel in 2012 after making a success of the George and Dragon at nearby Clifton (see page 168). The romantic and quintessentially English 40-acre landscape is a joy; it includes a cafe (open to the public) extensive kitchen gardens and fields of free range chickens, goats and rare breed pigs. A joy too is the house with its vast drawing room, panelled ‘French’ room, antiques, contemporary paintings, laid-back luxury and 18 delightful and unusual bedrooms, plus a pool and small spa. Cream on the cake: Allium restaurant, where the sensational food of Richard Swale is dictated by the life cycle of those gardens and fields. NOTA BENE... When Askham Hall was a private home, the Duke of Edinburgh was a regular guest. He competed in horse carriage driving at the nearby Lowther Show. Doubles from £150 + 44 (0)1931 712350; askhamhall.co.uk

AUGILL CASTLE KIRKBY STEPHEN, CUMBRIA

Quirky and delightful, Augill Castle is a Victorian gentleman’s folly in the magnificent Eden Valley. It has the trappings of a neoGothic castle – tower, turrets, castellations and mullions – but in miniature. Its wonderfully warm owners, Simon and Wendy Bennett, rescued it from dereliction and have lovingly created an award-winning and very special place to stay. It retains the relaxed atmosphere of a family home amid its vast rooms, with large fireplaces and antique furniture. There are 17 charmingly eclectic bedrooms, with four-poster baths as well as beds, turrets for wardrobes and splendid views. You’d be hard put to find a family-friendlier castle, with treehouse, playground, 12-seat cinema and children’s cookery school. It’s also a splendid place for a wedding. You can have the castle to yourself and there’s no formula: the place is as unique as any potential guest. Simon gives an honest glimpse of life at Augill in his books, Undressed for Dinner and Stop for Breakfast. NOTA BENE... Queen Victoria is said to have stayed a night at the castle on her way to Balmoral. Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1768 341937; stayinacastle.com 164 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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THE NORTH

THE BAR CONVENT YORK

Hotel locations are wonderfully varied – you can find them in stately homes, prisons, windmills and castles – and in York there’s one in England’s oldest surviving convent. Dating from 1686, it’s still home to the apostolic members of the Congregation of Jesus, an Ignatian order founded in 1609 by an extraordinary woman called Mary Ward, at the height of Catholic suppression post-gunpowder plot. Grade I listed, it’s a tranquil and affordable place to stay, recognised by Visit Britain, which gives it a threestar silver rating and coveted Breakfast Award. You can even sleep in one of two attractive rooms designed by Olga Polizzi, a supporter of the sisters and their work. Recent refurbishment has ensured simple but spotless and well-equipped bedrooms. There’s an all-day café with those sumptuous breakfasts, a glorious garden, the baroque chapel and a superb exhibition on the convent’s founder and history. Uplifting. NOTA BENE... According to legend, a vision of Saint Michael on a white horse appeared above the convent when an anti-Catholic mob attempted to burn it to the ground in the 17th century, dispersing the terrified crowd. Doubles from £96 +44 (0)1904 464902; bar-convent.org.uk

BROCCO ON THE PARK SHEFFIELD

Once you get inside this restaurant with eight rooms, beside leafy Endcliffe Park and close to Sheffield’s upmarket Nether Edge district, Brocco on the Park is a shining example of how imaginative yet practical design can lift a place far above the bar. Its owner and creator, Tiina Carr, is half-Finnish and the hotel is now a perfect marriage of pared-down Scandi chic and British comfort. Tiina’s theme, executed with the lightest of touches, is birds (rooms are given names like Nightjar’s Nest and Pigeon’s Loft); her mantra is ‘sleep well, eat well, live well’ and in her pretty, carefully-crafted interiors that is just what you do. The ground floor, with an honesty bar for hotel guests, is given over to the stylish indoor/outdoor Neighbourhood Kitchen for relaxed all-day dining (‘seasonal, a little bit Scandinavian and unmistakably Sheffield’) with smorgasbord lunches, Jazzy Sundays with live music and Nordic-style tapas, and plenty of choice. NOTA BENE... Pablo Picasso is alleged to have slept under Brocco on the Park’s rafters during his trip to Sheffield’s Peace Congress in 1950. Doubles from £115 +44 (0)1142 661233; brocco.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 165

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BROWNBER HALL NEWBIGGIN-ON-LUNE, CUMBRIA

Overlooking the lovely Howgill Fells, perfectly placed for both the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales, delightful Brownber Hall is a modern take on the quintessential English country home, complete with charming hosts. Human rights barrister Amanda and art studentturned-city-slicker Peter Jaques-Walker dreamed of escape and knew they’d struck gold when they discovered this early Victorian house in the secret Lune Valley. Immaculately restored, with many original features, including stained glass windows and William Morris wallpaper, it now offers eight bright and cosy bedrooms, a stylish sitting room and laid-back restaurant serving homemade sourdough pizzas and Italian specialities, cooked by Peter. Breakfast is a feast of homemade granola, local sausages and bacon, plus Amanda’s mother’s marmalade. The house is full of lovely things, there’s a retro cocktail honesty bar, a freshly baked cake at teatime, a warm welcome and above all a sense of wellbeing that only good living in the countryside can bring. NOTA BENE... Brownber was home to Mary Elizabeth Gaunt, the last woman in Britain to be burnt at the stake for high treason, in 1685. Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1539 623208; brownberhall.co.uk

THE COOKIE JAR ALNWICK, NORTHUMBERLAND

Where better to come for a total retreat than a former convent? This delightful hotel, brainchild of seasoned hotelier Robert Cook’s wife, Debbie, was for 120 years the Convent of Mercy and the inviting new look created by Dynargh Design includes features from its religious past. The Cookie Jar is all about style with comfort, from the snug sitting room with its Penguin classics to a host of little luxuries that furnish the 11 bedrooms and suites – oversized fluffy towels, fine English linen, Hypnos beds, drench showers and home-made cookies in the cookie jar, of course. Rooms are either Cosy or Luxury, while suites are Mother Superiors and the super-suite, the Mother of all Superiors, is in the former chapel, with its original circular stained glass window and vaulted ceiling. The Bailiffgate Bistro is open for lunch and afternoon tea, as well as dinner on Friday and Saturday – the south-facing terrace is perfect for summer sundowners and al fresco suppers. If you’re here to shoot, there are gun cabinets and dog kennels. Nothing has been forgotten. NOTA BENE... The Cookie Jar is in a cobbled medieval market town next to Alnwick Castle. Doubles from £175 +44 (0)1665 510465; cookiejaralnwick.com 166 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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THE NORTH

THE DEVONSHIRE ARMS BOLTON ABBEY, NORTH YORKSHIRE

A luxurious country escape surrounded by glorious and dramatic English countryside, this deeply spoiling, welcoming and cosy hotel offers ultimate comfort and relaxation. Set on the Duke of Devonshire’s Bolton Abbey Estate – 33,000 acres of prime Yorkshire Dales – you arrive to richly-decorated bedrooms and sitting rooms, warming log fires, attentive hospitality and inspirational cooking. Dinner at the Burlington is a highlight thanks to head chef Paul Leonard, whose bountiful fruit, vegetable, herb and flower garden is a natural extension of his kitchen. The vibrant Brasserie is also popular. Originally a coaching inn dating back to 1610, and extended over the centuries, the hotel stands in open parkland, with an Italian box garden. Inside, artwork and antiques merge with contemporary furnishings chosen by the versatile late Duchess, ‘Debo’, memoirist and youngest of the Mitford sisters. The Spa, in a converted barn, offers pool, gym and beauty therapy suites, and guests play tennis in this stunning Dales setting. NOTA BENE... It is said the Brontë sisters took tea with friends here and Anthony Trollope mentioned the inn in his writings. Doubles from £139 +44 (0)1756 718100; thedevonshirearms.co.uk

THE DEVONSHIRE FELL BURNSALL, NORTH YORKSHIRE

A chic hideaway that marries contemporary comfort with its Dales heritage, the Devonshire Fell has breathtakingly beautiful surroundings. It stands on the northern edge of the Duke of Devonshire’s Bolton Abbey Estate, and the hotel’s colourful renovation was overseen by the Duchess of Devonshire. Each of the 16 bedrooms is stylishly furnished and equipped with those little extras that ensure absolute comfort, while dogs are thankfully welcomed in some of the rooms – this is superb dog walking country, after all. Immensely popular with locals and guests alike, the restaurant offers freshly-cooked dishes that reflect the seasons. Head chef Rob Harrison’s modern cuisine – simple ingredients cooked perfectly – is matched by a world-class wine list. Guests are offered free access to the luxury spa at its sister hotel, the Devonshire Arms at Bolton Abbey (see above) just a ten-minute drive or picturesque six-mile walk following the river. NOTA BENE... The hotel overlooks the fivearched bridge that spans the river Wharfe, reputedly the most photographed bridge in the Yorkshire Dales. Doubles from £116 +44 (0)1756 729000; devonshirefell.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 167

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

ESHOTT HALL MORPETH, NORTHUMBERLAND

At the top of a sweeping, tree-lined drive, Eshott Hall comes into view: a country-house hotel with all the right attributes. The architecture is Georgian, with a beautiful, wisteria-covered façade and a perfectly proportioned interior. The setting could hardly be lovelier, enveloped by woodland and rolling lawns (great for croquet) and a walled kitchen garden. In the public rooms, vast sash windows overlook the peaceful grounds. Original fireplaces and mouldings frame antique furniture and paintings, while sofas, easy chairs and books lend a relaxed feel. This may be a grand manor, but the atmosphere is of a friendly house party. There are 11 rooms in the house and five in the old gamekeeper’s lodge and three newly refurbished bedrooms in the original estate stables, all distinctively decorated. You might have a sleigh bed, a fourposter, a chandelier or a window seat. There are also three self-catering cottages for two to six people and an award-winning restaurant. NOTA BENE... In 1877, the house was bought by Emerson Muschamp Bainbridge, founder of Bainbridge’s, ‘the world’s first department store’, in Newcastle – now John Lewis. Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1670 787454; eshotthall.co.uk

GEORGE AND DRAGON CLIFTON, CUMBRIA

A lovely place to stay, eat and relax. Close to the Eden Valley, and part of the huge Lowther Estate, the village inn has been imaginatively revamped by Charlie Lowther, who also owns nearby Askham Hall (see page 164). The ground floor is a triumph of conviviality and authenticity. The rustic bar, wood-burning stoves, banquette seats strewn with kelim cushions and sightline through to the slate-floored, duck egg blue-panelled restaurant, create a delightful place in which to while away time. As for the food, almost all produce comes from Askham Hall’s gardens and estate. Head chef Gareth Webster creates just the sort of tasty, unfussy, locally-sourced cooking one craves in the countryside. Talking of which, anyone staying in one of the inn’s 11 comfortable bedrooms should take advantage of its impressive fishing and stalking. Families and well-behaved dogs are welcomed. NOTA BENE... The famous Rebel oak tree, where the army of Bonnie Prince Charlie was defeated and driven out of England, is situated behind the George and Dragon. Clifton marks the site of the last battle to take place on English soil in 1745. Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1768 865381; georgeanddragonclifton.co.uk 168 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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THE NORTH

GRANTLEY HALL RIPON, NORTH YORKSHIRE

A shining north star, the hotly-anticipated Grantley Hall will open its doors this summer to reveal luxury, fun and fine dining in idyllic countryside on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales. The multi-million-pound restoration project by Valeria Sykes has returned this Palladian beauty to its former glory, capturing its elegant grandeur with the addition of several new buildings. Guests are to be spoilt rotten here – 47 beautiful bedrooms, a sybaritic wellness centre, an engaging programme of events and no less than seven drinking and dining venues, including pan-Asian eaterie, EightyEight, and a glamorous late night champagne and cocktail bar, Valeria’s. Foodies are rubbing their hands with glee because the hotel’s principal restaurant, set in one of the original public rooms overlooking the formal gardens, belongs to Yorkshireman and culinary maestro, Shaun Rankin. Gastronomic delights, 17th-century splendour and contemporary design: welcome, Grantley Hall. NOTA BENE... Dating back to 1685, Grantley Hall is a Grade II*-listed mansion house boasting an English Heritage-listed ornamental Japanese garden in its grounds. Doubles from £350 +44 (0)1765 620070; grantleyhall.co.uk

HARE & HOUNDS LEVENS, CUMBRIA

Not only is the modest but charming Hare & Hounds that rare find, a thriving watering hole, it’s also the only place for miles that serves food all day, every day. It’s their background as former managers of London branches of All Bar One that makes it natural for the owners, Ash and Becky Dewar, to offer continual dining. Coupled with their easygoing, friendly approach, this has once again made the centuries-old inn a popular local hub. The website says it all: ‘We are friendly and welcoming to all: families, tourists, walkers, cyclists, children, muddy boots, dogs.’ The menu of homemade pizzas, burgers and pub classics, plus drinks – including cocktails – teas and coffees, goes down a treat. For overnight visitors there are five bedrooms, smartly decorated and luxuriously equipped, while for less transient guests, there’s a spacious new barn annexe with all the facilities for self-catering plus handy access to the pub for meals. For a cosy night in, staff can even deliver pub food straight to your door. NOTA BENE... In the bar, check out the long list – along with amusing character sketches – of every landlord who’s presided here since 1600. Doubles from £85 +44 (0)15395 60004; hareandhoundslevens.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 169

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

HEADLAM HALL COUNTY DURHAM

The Robinson family are exemplary hoteliers: not only have they created the quintessential English pub in the Rose & Crown at Romaldkirk (see page 176), but also the archetypal English country house hotel at Headlam Hall. It helps that the hall is a fine-looking, 17th-century building of the palest stone with an idyllic setting in the rolling Durham dales. In its beautiful walled gardens you can play tennis and croquet or just stroll around and admire the immaculate lawns and roses. Vegetables, herbs and fruit are grown here to provide the excellent kitchen with the freshest possible ingredients. Inside, exquisitely proportioned rooms have panelling and elegant furnishings, and the 38 restful bedrooms (split between the Main Hall, Coach House, Mews and Spa) contain everything you could possibly need. With its own testing nine-hole golf course, fabulous spa and iconic classic cars (for daily hire in summer), this is a hotel for everyone… even the most dedicated petrolhead. NOTA BENE... Incredibly, when the Robinsons acquired the estate in 1977, to extend their next-door farm, the Hall was a leaking ‘liability’. Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1325 730238; headlamhall.co.uk

THE INN AT WHITEWELL FOREST OF BOWLAND, LANCASHIRE

Charlie Bowman is the third generation of his family to run this charming 23-bedroom inn. With roots in the 14th century, the inn is full of character and an evident taste for antiques. It’s an eclectic mix, from Victorian bathing machines to the pictures and prints lining the bedroom walls. Bookcases groan with travel and cookery books for sale, while the reception doubles as a well-stocked wine shop. Modernday pampering has not been forgotten, with the welcome SkinSense treatment room. The unfussy food, from head chef Jamie Cadman, now in his 20th year here, is locally sourced. Bar meals are served in the spacious sitting room, while the window seat views in the elevated restaurant are so compelling that it’s almost impossible to maintain a conversation. The road leading to tiny Whitewell descends through the wild, steep-sided Trough of Bowland into a natural amphitheatre of meadows and hills, with the River Hodder, where fishing is available, running by. NOTA BENE... Originally a small manor house used by keepers of the royal forest, the inn is part of the Duchy of Lancaster estate, owned by the Queen. Her last visit here was in 2006. Doubles from £137 +44 (0)1200 448222; innatwhitewell.com 170 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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LINTHWAITE HOUSE WINDERMERE, CUMBRIA

Linthwaite House, built in 1900 as a private home, is in many ways the perfect Lake District hotel: understatedly elegant and professional but also warmly welcoming and deeply relaxing. And the view over Lake Windermere, with the sun slanting across the water, is simply unbeatable. You’ll find a crackling fire in the hall’s carved mahogany fireplace, beyond which beckons the light and airy Bar & Conservatory, with those mesmerising views. Outside, in the wooded, gently sloping grounds, there’s a tarn with a secluded summerhouse and six new Lake Suites, with views of the surrounding Lake District scenery. Back in the hotel, there are two dining options, a casual Bar & Conservatory and the hotel’s main restaurant; both make use of the freshest local Cumbrian ingredients. The bedrooms are the last word in lakeland luxury. Add a croquet lawn, pétanque, outdoor chessboard and fishing on the tarn, and you have a Lake District hotel that ticks all the boxes. NOTA BENE... Take a rowing boat out on the private tarn, which has breathtaking views of Lake Windermere. Doubles from £200 +44 (0)15394 88600; leeucollection.com

THE MALABAR SEDBERGH, CUMBRIA

Graham and Fiona Lappin returned from the Far East and India (where Graham grew up in Malabar) with exotic decorating ideas for their upmarket country guesthouse. Set in magnificent countryside, perfect for exploring both the Lakes and the Dales, this former 18th-century barn has been converted with great care and style, creating rustic, contemporary rooms with a mix of exposed timber, local stone and pale plaster, where Ganesh lampshade meets Roberts radio. There’s an honesty bar in the lounge, with comfortable sofas and chairs around a wood-burner – the perfect place to enjoy your complimentary afternoon tea. The six bedrooms are light and well-equipped, with walk-in showers and huge boat baths. You make your own hot drinks at the Tea Station outside. If you don’t feel like dining at one of the excellent local pubs or restaurants, there are several supper options available at The Malabar and an additional restaurant due to open this autumn. NOTA BENE... Graham’s father and grandfather were tea planters in southern India, where he grew up, so The Malabar is a tea drinker’s paradise, with an exceptional loose leaf selection. Doubles from £160 +44 (0)15396 20200; themalabar.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 171

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

MANOR HOUSE LINDLEY HUDDERSFIELD, WEST YORKSHIRE

From time to time a really exciting newcomer bursts on to the boutique hotel scene. The latest opening to quicken the pulse is that of Manor House Lindley, a golden-stoned, Grade II-listed Georgian residence that makes a distinctive and sophisticated place to stay. Painstakingly restored, any one of the 11 bedrooms and suites will provide a perfect escape from the humdrum of everyday life. Each has the fine proportions of classical Georgian architecture, glamorous, individual decoration using designer wallpapers and sumptuous furnishings, dazzling white linen, a state-of-the-art bathroom and consummate attention to detail. The choice of restaurants would not be amiss in a much larger hotel: the Clocktower Lounge for an indulgent afternoon tea and evening drinks and, for dinner, the atmospheric Lantern Room or relaxed Kitchen. It’s a grown-up hotel, where your only problem will be tearing yourself away. NOTA BENE... There’s a surprise waiting in the basement: on Friday and Saturday evenings only, a seductive understairs den, Lindley Cellars, is open for a little light decadence, sipped from a heavy crystal glass. Doubles from £159 +44 (0)1484 504000; manorhouselindley.co.uk

MIDDLETHORPE HALL YORK

If the exterior of this gorgeous, mellow red brick 1699 house looks straight from a Jane Austen novel, the interior is no disappointment. You’ll find a magnificent oak staircase, quaint sitting rooms, each with a roaring fire, and views of the ha-ha. The atmosphere is serene and there’s a tranquil spa across the road. Expect classic country house style bedrooms, floral bedspreads, homemade shortbread and kind attention from the staff. For dinner, try the catch of the day: perhaps plaice or halibut landed at Whitby, followed by Yorkshire poached rhubarb crumble soufflé with vanilla ice cream and white chocolate. A hotel that’s as alluring in winter – all cosy and snug – as it is in summer, when you can stroll through the grounds and make friends with the resident deer. It also makes the perfect base for visiting York. Rescued from decay in the 1980s, Middlethorpe Hall is a National Trust-owned Historic House Hotel. NOTA BENE... In 1878, Fanny Rollo Wilkinson – one of the first women to make a professional career as a landscape gardener – moved here. This is where she began to devote her life to gardening, and the historic gardens are well worth a visit. Doubles from £219 +44 (0)1904 641241; middlethorpe.com 172 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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MIDDLETON LODGE ESTATE RICHMOND, NORTH YORKSHIRE

This perfectly proportioned country retreat on the 200-acre Palladian estate of Middleton Lodge, a superb private house and wedding venue, is just about the coolest hotel in Yorkshire. Owners James and Rebecca Allison have conjured back its neglected former glory, with 29 bedrooms across the estate, a buzzing yet relaxed Coach House restaurant with an all-day menu, and superb treatment rooms. Another 11 bedrooms have just opened in the Dairy, where you’ll find stone barns, huge beds and copper bathtubs. The Fig House (once the site of the estate greenhouse) is now styled in bottle greens, with church doors and garden antiques, creating a unique and beautiful party venue. The latest addition is the Forge Restaurant, converted from another barn, serving an ever-changing tasting menu picked straight from the estate. Think of Middleton Lodge as a sleeping beauty, which James and Rebecca are coaxing back to life. NOTA BENE... The Walled Garden has recently been transformed after a two-year restoration programme to designs by RHS Chelsea Gold Winner, Tom Stuart-Smith. Doubles from £180 +44 (0)1325 377977; middletonlodge.co.uk

MOOR HALL AUGHTON, LANCASHIRE

A new gastronomic hotspot – with fabulous bedrooms – that has already reached the stars: two Michelin ones to be precise. It’s the joint venture of Andy and Tracey Bell with Mark Birchall. The former are responsible for the transformation of the 16th-century Moor Hall into an opulent restaurant with rooms; Birchall, for nine years executive chef at L’Enclume, is the self-effacing culinary genius responsible for creating a temple of gastronomy à la mode. And what a temple. And how mode. You could put a baby to bed on the cushioned carpets in the huge, gorgeous bedrooms (think silver, glass, purple, white leather, satin), while the contemporary wood and glass dining room might easily transport you to Cape Town, Sydney or California. Mark’s food, served on local, specially-designed pottery, is nothing short of sensational, with wines to match. But that’s not all: the converted medieval barn is a showcase for local produce, with a brasseriestyle restaurant above, and the fulsome walled kitchen garden a wonder to behold. NOTA BENE... Albert Roux OBE and his wife Maria are regulars. Doubles from £195. +44 (0)1695 572511; moorhall.com 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 173

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NORTHCOTE RIBBLE VALLEY, LANCASHIRE

Northcote is a luxury boutique hotel in the beautiful Ribble Valley. An oasis of gastronomic excellence, it has held a Michelin star for more than 20 years, with a chef’s table, cookery school and kitchen garden alongside its restaurant. Executive chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen, known for her appearances on Great British Menu, creates fresh, modern flavours, making the most of seasonal produce from the garden and the best local ingredients. Choose between the à la carte, four or six-course and plantbased menus. Managing director Craig Bancroft oversees a carefully curated cellar of excellent wines. Twenty-six luxurious, spacious rooms are divided between the original 1880 Manor House and the Garden Lodge. All are thoughtfully decorated with distinctive furniture, discreetly integrated hi-tech multimedia equipment and contemporary bathrooms. NOTA BENE... Just a short drive away is the impressive façade of Stonyhurst College, the Jesuit school where JRR Tolkien wrote Lord of the Rings. Doubles from £255 +44 (0)1254 240555; northcote.com

ODDFELLOWS CHESTER, CHESHIRE

Fancy a spot of retail therapy? A day at the races? Then hop on a train and head for Chester, whose compact medieval city centre, with its roots in Roman times, is graced by a fine cathedral and encircled by historic city walls. If you feel like some fun, head for Oddfellows, a perfect base for any age, but especially for the young at heart. Set in a beautiful neoclassical mansion house, the decoration is nicely zany, with old typewriters crawling up the wall, huge appliqué birds and foxes on the panelling in the bar, plus an indoor/outdoor courtyard with water feature, booths, firepits and oversized lamps. The comfortable, wellequipped bedrooms are stylish, full of curios and fun accessories, and good value (great housekeeping here). There are also cool, spacious, self-catering apartments. Downstairs you’ll find terrific cocktails in the bar, while the food in the revamped restaurant is outstanding. NOTA BENE... The frieze above the Georgian entrance says Oddfellows Hall and indeed the building was once home to the Oddfellows Society – where philosophers, dreamers and artists would congregate. Doubles from £149 +44 (0)1244 345454; oddfellowschester.com 174 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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THE NORTH

ODDFELLOWS ON THE PARK CHEADLE, GREATER MANCHESTER

This handsome Oddfellow is the sister (or should that be brother?) of Oddfellows in Chester (see opposite). Once again, a distinctive building has been reimagined as a chic and happening hotel, this time within the glorious Gothic mansion of Bruntwood Hall, surrounded by Bruntwood Park’s 120 acres of mature woodland. Inside, the Hall’s Victorian Gothic roots and history have been allowed to shine, through a rich palette of petrol greens, brass and gold – but as at Oddfellows in Chester, a light-hearted spirit is also in evidence. Names such as The Galloping Major (the restaurant, remembering a famous former owner), The Stud Room (an inviting panelled drawing room with a playful cocktail bar at one end) and The Pigsty (a salon de beauté complete with mud room where guests can slap detoxifying mud on each other), give an idea of the sense of fun at this fine, historic hotel. NOTA BENE...In close proximity to Cheshire’s famed Golden Triangle of wealth, don’t be surprised to see supercars on the drive or the Real Housewives of Cheshire sipping champagne inside. Doubles from £149 +44 (0)1616 973066; oddfellowsonthepark.com

THE PHEASANT HOTEL HAROME, NORTH YORKSHIRE

Overlooking the village pond, The Pheasant Hotel ingeniously combines a former forge, village shop and several barns into a single building that retains old oak beams and stacks of character. Co-owner Jacquie Pern has decorated the interior using calm, natural colours across a zestful mix of florals, stripes and checks. In winter the country-style sitting room has a cosy fire, and leading off it there’s a lovely stoneflagged, vine-shaded terrace that comes into its own in summer. The 16 bedrooms are restful and luxurious, with 12 in the main building and two family- and dog-friendly ‘homes from home’ in the courtyard, plus Plum Cottage, a romantic retreat, and the luxurious duplex Pheasant Suite. There’s even a small indoor heated pool. Chef patron Peter Neville’s local, seasonal cooking is sensational, with dishes that reflect his interest in foraged foods and fresh, vibrant flavours. Standards are high, whether you sample the relaxed bar menu, afternoon tea or the seasonal seven-course tasting menu at dinner. You won’t find a better breakfast for miles. NOTA BENE... Some rooms have gun cabinets for shoots; all have complimentary sloe gin. Doubles from £180 +44 (0)1439 771241; thepheasanthotel.com 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 175

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

ROCKLIFFE HALL DARLINGTON, COUNTY DURHAM

A seamless blend of old and new, Rockliffe Hall is proof that luxury hotels are not the preserve of southern England. It opened in 2009 in an imposing 18th-century house, set in parkland beside the river Tees. Not just a hotel but a resort, it has its own world-class golf course and state-ofthe-art spa. The golfers and spa enthusiasts who flock here are joined by foodies who come to sample celebrated chef Richard Allen’s sublime cooking. In the flagship Orangery, he takes diners on a journey of textures, temperatures and tastes via his à la carte tasting menus, beautifully executed and very memorable. The Brasserie is less formal – it’s perfectly acceptable to wear a robe, ideal after a morning in the spa, pool or gym. Don’t miss the new Mischmasch parkland, inspired by Alice in Wonderland and with younger guests in mind: there are play pods, a cinema room, interactive water feature, adventure playground, tennis courts and more. NOTA BENE... Lewis Carroll lived in nearby Croft-on-Tees, whose sulphur springs were known for their healing properties in the 1800s and may have inspired the potion that Alice drinks in Wonderland. Doubles from £195 +44 (0)1325 729999; rockliffehall.com

THE ROSE & CROWN ROMALDKIRK, COUNTY DURHAM

For anyone seeking a quintessential English inn, loved by regulars and first-time visitors alike for its warmth, character, comfort and good food, all set in beautiful surroundings, look no further than the wonderful Rose & Crown. Run by the excellent Robinson family, who also own the popular County Durham hotel, Headlam Hall (see page 170), this 18th-century coaching inn continues seamlessly to do what it has always done so well: fine hospitality in an archetypal rural hostelry. There are thick stone walls, beamed ceilings and stone fires, with enough contemporary touches to blend old-fashioned charm with modern comfort and expectation. Great food is at the heart of the inn, showcasing local ingredients of good provenance and high standards of animal welfare. The 14 bedrooms display a faultless combination of contemporary country design (including modern bathrooms) and terrific character and charm. Well-placed for walking in the spectacular Dales countryside and fly-fishing on the Tees (tuition can be arranged). NOTA BENE... Romaldkirk is in the North Pennines, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and a UNESCO Global Geopark. Doubles from £115 +44 (0)1833 650213; rose-and-crown.co.uk 176 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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THE NORTH

THE TALBOT HOTEL MALTON, NORTH YORKSHIRE

Spearheaded by landowner Tom Naylor-Leyland, the market town of Malton is now firmly on the map as the food capital of Yorkshire. His handsome 17th-century coaching inn, The Talbot, needed an update to reflect the town’s new-found status and so he sensibly turned to hoteliers with an eye for design and hospitality as fresh and innovative as his own for food and produce. Georgie and Sam Pearman, who co-founded the Lucky Onion Group in the Cotswolds and have recently opened the Swan at Ascott-under-Wychwood (see page 133) have worked their magic; now its elegant drawing room, with two log fires, engaging pictures, velvet armchairs and low sofas, is a lovely boho-chic space in which to while away time. The restaurant has a wooden floor, country tables, pretty china and cutlery and a suitably informal feel for its simple, locally sourced food, prepared with care. As for the bedrooms, they are all different: eclectic, homely and charming. NOTA BENE... The Talbot is located in the pretty town of Malton, which was crowned Yorkshire’s Food Capital by Antonio Carluccio, and is Prue Leith’s favourite foodie town. Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1653 639096; talbotmalton.co.uk

YOREBRIDGE HOUSE BAINBRIDGE, YORKSHIRE

Once a pair of Victorian school buildings, Yorebridge House is now a seductive five star, three AA Rosette boutique hotel in the heart of the beautiful Yorkshire Dales. It is stylish and welcoming, with owners David and Charlotte Reilly and their team dedicated to professionalism and high standards, passionate about fine dining and offering a really personal service from the moment you arrive. The 11 contemporary, pampering bedrooms not only have fabulous views, luxury products and fluffy robes, but are themed around global locations (a clue to the Reillys’ love of travel). Spend the night in a Greenwich Village loft, a Moroccan riad or a Caribbean beach house. Some also have a private outdoor hot tub for a reviving soak. There are plenty of comfortable places to sit and relax in the handsome oak-floored sitting room and bar – in winter you can settle beside the roaring fire. Then sample superb quality local produce, as well as drinks and wine from impressive lists, in the award-winning restaurant. NOTA BENE... Recently voted most romantic hotel in the UK with the oriental-style Nishiki hot tub room awarded UK’s sexiest bedroom. Doubles from £220 +44 (0)1969 652060; yorebridgehouse.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 177

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Richard Smith, Vertex Talacre Lighthouse. North Wales Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 12 (AA Publishing, Â£25)

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Wales & The Marches Responsible for the invention of lawn tennis, the longest town name in Europe and Sir Anthony Hopkins, wonderfully wild Wales never ceases to surprise and delight. Cymru am byth! [Wales forever!]

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Snowdonia is a Mecca for hikers

Lee Westcott swapped Bethnal Green for Ludlow

Welsh Weekends

EAT

or those who’ve been awarded their Duke of Edinburgh Gold and feel most at home in walking boots, Wales and its bordering counties, Shropshire and Herefordshire, are heaven. If two mountain ranges and the Shropshire Hills don’t tempt you, a long list of excellent pubs and some reliably exciting wet weather activities (underground, as well as indoors) will. The country has many beautiful natural sights that don’t have to be reached via a long hike up to the top of a cloud-obscured peak (don’t miss summers at Bosherston Lily Ponds near Pembroke), making this small but mighty country a family-proof attraction, from pram to scooter. All that fresh air is sure to work up a healthy appetite. Make time to stop for Cacen Gri (griddle cakes) and Bara Brith (rich tea cake), slathered with butter and consumed with a steaming mug of tea. Whether you’re driving alongside the rolling coastline in Pembrokeshire, or from cultural Cardiff to the wild Brecon Beacons, or perhaps heading north to explore Anglesey, remember that the finest Cacen Gri cakes inns, shops and secret beaches are the ones you almost rolled right past.

Proper Italian gelato at Portmeirion

The rolling Marches, craggy coastline and soaring mountains promise action-packed breaks

Ynyshir alone makes Powys worth a visit. Located in the middle of an RSPB nature reserve, it has a Michelin star and only 20 covers – so chef Gareth Ward can deliver the 19-course, ‘meat-obsessed’ dinner. ynyshir.co.uk East Londoners will recognise the name Lee Westcott, who shot to recognition at the Typing Room in Bethnal Green. He’s just swapped the big smoke for Tenbury Wells, just south of Ludlow, where Pensons at the Netherwood Estate is in renovated farm buildings that provide a fitting setting for proper field-to-fork food. pensons.co.uk The Walnut Tree Inn became a foodie favourite in the early ’60s and after Shaun Hill took over the kitchen in 2008 it quickly regained its Michelin star. Droves of new bon viveurs now flock to Abergavenny for dishes that leave the ingredients to do the talking. thewalnuttreeinn.com

SEE

If a pair of binoculars is always on your packing list, a day trip to Skomer Island is right up your street. That said, they’re not necessary here as the Wick is so stuffed with puffins you can’t miss them. From April to September only – you join the boat at Martin’s Haven. welshwildlife.org Take a tour of a single estate distillery with a twist. At Chase, just four miles out of Hereford, they make vodka and gin from potatoes. chasedistillery.co.uk Portmeirion is a slice of Italy in Snowdonia. Designed and built by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis between 1925 and 1975, it’s now a holiday village but worth a visit to enjoy its standout toy town architecture (and an Italian gelato). portmeirion.wales

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WALES & THE MARCHES

Barafundle Bay

BUY

Conwy Castle

If you’ve had a day out on the Brecon Beacons, don’t miss a pit stop at Beacons Farm Shop at the Welsh Venison Centre. Bred on the family farm since 1985, the shop is literally surrounded by the animals that stock it. It’s a revered supplier of criticallyacclaimed restaurants both locally and further afield. beaconsfarmshop.co.uk Thirteenth-century Conwy Castle is one of the most magnificent medieval fortifications in Britain. Tie in your visit with a day of shopping: sheltering behind its walls is a range of independent shops selling local crafts such as Welsh cloth, flannel and tapestries. The Potter’s Gallery, also in Conwy, showcases the creative work of 20 regional craftspeople. cadw.gov.wales

Skomer Island is puffin paradise

W H E N

Chase Distillery makes vodka from potatoes

Pack a picnic and visit beautiful Barafundle Bay. Yes, it’s one of those annoyingly inaccessible spots, but well worth the effort it takes to reach it. For some gnarly conditions, surfers should hit Freshwater West, after first honing their technique at the artificial wave pool in Snowdonia. adventureparksnowdonia.com MAMILs (middle aged men in lycra) flock to the Mawddach Estuary Trail, which runs in the foothills of Cadair Idris, ending in Barmouth. A ten-mile taster of the route along the disused railway track and over Penmaenpool bridge affords maximum views for minimum effort. mawddachtrail.co.uk Fresh fish is always better when you can meet the fisherman who caught it, buying straight from their hands. The Milford Haven Waterway, on the south coast, is a good place to start; you can even go all out and hire a charter boat to bag your own bass. mhpa.co.uk Scaling Snowdon may well be on the cards. If you’re undecided, it helps to know you can take the mountain train up (and down again), if you want. snowdonrailway.co.uk

T O

G O

MAY TO JUNE

JULY

SEPTEMBER

At Hay Festival you’ll hear from the latest thought leaders spanning literary, political and philosophical fields. But it’s a lot more fun than it sounds – comedy, music, food, pop-ups… and lots of bookshops. hayfestival.com

A world first, the Gower Peninsula is home to a running and music festival, where glamping and a glorious coastal location are the added ingredients that transform it into the ultimate Welsh weekend. lovetrailsfestival.co.uk

Abergavenny puts its red dragon-shaped stamp on the culinary scene. Alongside the usual mix of masterclasses and demos, guests can go on day trips to forage for wild estuary foods. abergavenny foodfestival.com

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE BEAR HOTEL CRICKHOWELL, POWYS

The Bear and Crickhowell go hand in hand, like Welsh cakes and bara brith: hardly surprising when you know that the former coaching inn has been offering hospitality to the people of the delightful Brecon Beacons town and weary travellers alike since 1432. The Bear brims with character; low beams, antiques, roaring log fires and, most of all, bonhomie – you couldn’t ask for more. Outside, the attractive white and black-beamed building drips with hanging baskets, with a cobbled forecourt and archway into the inner courtyard. In the bar, a 19th-century stagecoach timetable is still on display. The oak-beamed bedrooms in the main house are charming, comfortable and a step back in time, while there are larger, more modern rooms in the converted stables and coach house. Best of all is the highly regarded food. ‘Eat at the Bear and leave satisfied, that’s our aim,’ they say. And you will. NOTA BENE... After his split from Take That, Robbie Williams stayed at The Bear for two weeks while recording at a nearby studio. He played the piano and sung in the function room in the evenings. Doubles from £112 +44 (0)1873 810408; bearhotel.co.uk

BODYSGALLEN HALL LLANDUDNO, CONWY

Bodysgallen Hall is a dignified, gentle-paced oasis of calm, only a short distance from Llandudno’s famous promenade and beaches. Climb its tower – the medieval core of the fine 17th-century mansion – and you’ll be rewarded with a panoramic view that includes the mountains of Snowdonia National Park. The Grade I-listed house is filled with character. Fifteen bedrooms and 16 postcardpretty cottages within the estate’s 200 acres of wooded parkland. Grass terraces overlook the award-winning gardens, which include a walled rose garden, follies, a cascade and a rare 17th-century parterre of box hedges enclosing herbs. There is a formal dining room in the main hall – Llandudno’s best restaurant, serving delicious, estate grown and locally sourced ingredients. The former farmhouse now houses the Spa, with a large indoor pool, spa bath, steam room, sauna and treatment rooms. All in all, Bodysgallen Hall is one of the most welcoming hotels in Britain. NOTA BENE... The 13th-century tower was allegedly built as part of the outlying defences of Conwy Castle. Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1492 584466; bodysgallen.com 182 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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WALES & THE MARCHES

CASTLE HOUSE HEREFORD, HEREFORDSHIRE

This elegant Grade II-listed Georgian mansion is in an unrivalled location, owned and run by the Watkins, a Herefordshire farming family. Peace reigns in the hotel’s enchanting terraced garden, overlooking the old castle moat. Of the light-filled public rooms, the smart sitting room and restaurant have French doors leading onto the garden. The head chef, Gabor Katona, creates seasonal menus featuring locallysourced fresh produce, some straight from the owner’s kitchen garden. For light meals and cocktails, there’s the Ballingham Bar & Bistro or Garden Terrace. You absolutely mustn’t miss their famed afternoon tea – the best in Hereford. The 24 bedrooms and suites are all stylish and individual, split between the main building and Number 25 Townhouse, where the eight striking rooms offer an array of treats, from a hospitality box filled with local produce to underfloor heating in the bathrooms. It’s a hotel that fits perfectly into its surroundings and ticks all the boxes. NOTA BENE... Look out for the new garden restaurant, opening November 2019. Doubles from £115 +44 (0)1432 356321; castlehse.co.uk

THE FELIN FACH GRIFFIN BRECON, POWYS

This is the first of Edmund and Charlie Inkin’s three wonderfully unpretentious and enjoyable establishments (see also The Gurnard’s Head, page 49 and Old Coastguard, page 52). Set amid magnificent scenery between the Black Mountains and Brecon Beacons, the plain but pleasing old inn has become a sanctuary for food lovers, walkers and bookish visitors to nearby Hay-on-Wye, famed for its lit fests. They love the honest simplicity, the warmth of welcome, colour and comfort, both in ground floor rooms whose names say it all – Library, Tack Room, Aga Room – and in bedrooms where the beds and linens are second to none. Curl up here with one of the books that lie around the building, listen to your Roberts radio or simply gaze out at the hills. You feel truly as though enveloped in a big embrace and, after a surprisingly refined dinner based on the Welsh larder, you’ll head for bed with an equally big smile on your face. NOTA BENE... Nearby Hay has over 20 bookshops and is both the National Book Town of Wales and the site of the annual Hay Literary Festival, which draws around 80,000 visitors. Doubles from £140 B&B +44 (0)1874 620111; felinfachgriffin.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 183

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

GLIFFAES CRICKHOWELL, POWYS

Adorable Gliffaes. Standing above the River Usk and crowned by two quirky campaniles, the house was built in the 1880s in Italianate style. There are lovely grounds and, for fishermen, five salmon and trout beats along the river. For the last 70 years it has been in the same family, and Susie and James Suter have run it with hands-on dedication for more than 20 years. It’s hard to imagine a more peaceful hotel. Sitting on the wide stone terrace with nothing but the sound of birdsong and the rushing river below certainly helps, but for peace to really take hold the hotel itself has to be loved by its owners and be genuine, unpretentious and satisfying for its guests. It is. There are 23 bedrooms, four of which have superlative views over the river and the sky-high hill that shoots up beyond it. With country house fabrics and comfortable bathrooms, the rooms are traditional and pretty. There are copious afternoon teas, James Suter’s knockout martinis and, in the dining room, satisfying dishes that hit the spot. A gem. NOTA BENE... The Brecon Beacons are the closest UK mountain range to London. Doubles from £149 +44 (0)1874 730371; gliffaeshotel.com

GROVE OF NARBERTH NARBERTH, PEMBROKESHIRE

This striking country house was derelict when Neil and Zoe Kedward restored it in 2007. Today this most charming and luxurious of hotels has 26 beautiful bedrooms and suites, each with a view of the lovely gardens, surrounding fields or Preseli Hills, including six stunning cottage suites by top interior designer Martin Hulbert. Of the two main façades, one is three storeys high, gleaming white and many-windowed; the other is gabled, with arts and crafts elements that continue inside. Martin Hulbert has recently created a gorgeous and inviting new look for the ground floor: handcrafted and Welsh-influenced, with charming vintage and local elements. Dinners in the Fernery restaurant, with stunning wallpaper made from ferns pressed by the team, are a highlight. You can also eat more simply in Hulbert’s rustic-style Artisan Rooms. Whichever you choose, the food is superb: new executive chef Douglas Balish’s creations are imaginative, locally sourced and always delicious. NOTA BENE... Local movie shoots for films like Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, Snow White and the Huntsman and Robin Hood have resulted in many Hollywood stars staying here. Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1834 860915; thegrove-narberth.co.uk 184 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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WALES & THE MARCHES

PENALLY ABBEY TENBY, PEMBROKESHIRE

Penally Abbey exudes bonhomie – you instantly relax and feel at home. Owners Lucas and Melanie Boissevain brought the lovely, late 18th-century Strawberry Gothic house, with its characteristic ogee-headed doors and windows, stunningly back to life in 2014. You enter a spacious hallway with wood-burning stove; there follows a bar opening onto a pretty conservatory, an elegant yet homely sitting room and a glamorous candlelit dining room filled with locally collected antiques. The restaurant serves delicious, local and homegrown produce in imaginative ways. Melanie’s look – she’s an interior designer – mixes the traditional with judiciously stylish touches, and the 11 bedrooms are equally charming: restful and comfortable spaces, most with sea views, in which it’s a pleasure to spend time. Each one includes a delightful hand-illustrated guide of things to do in the area, which sums up the charms of this exceptional hotel and its lovely gardens. NOTA BENE... Penally Abbey is located in the biggest Coastal National Park in Britain and the coastal path passes 58 beaches and 14 beautiful harbours. Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1834 843033; penally-abbey.com

PLAS BODEGROES PWLLHELI, GWYNEDD

It’s 33 years since Plas Bodegroes first opened as a hotel and restaurant, and mercifully very little has changed. Chris Chown still dons his chef’s whites every morning and cooks breakfast under the stewardship of head chef Hugh Bracegirdle. His wife Gunna remains the picture of elegance running front of house, though nowadays a delightful manager, Lynn, means she can take well-earned time off. Their home (the English translation is Rosehip Hall) is a charming Georgian manor with a delicate frill of a veranda smothered in wisteria and roses in summer. With its flowery courtyard and heart-shaped swathe of lawn leading to a 200-year-old avenue of beech trees, it’s a truly romantic place. The bedrooms are pretty and comfortable and the food in the delightful dining room is some of the best in Wales. Try fragrant Welsh lamb or line-caught local sea bass, accompanied by kindly-priced wines and served by a dedicated local team. Perfection. NOTA BENE... Head gardener, Julia Thomas, has been with the hotel for 25 years. Ask her whatever you like, she knows all there is to know about Plas Bodegroes. Doubles from £130 +44 01758 612363; bodegroes.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 185

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE RIVERSIDE INN, AYMESTREY LEOMINSTER, HEREFORDSHIRE

Set in the heart of the rich and verdant Herefordshire countryside, this black-and-whitetimbered, 16th-century inn sits prettily on the banks of the river Lugg, where guests sip local real ales and cider, contentedly watching the water meander slowly under the ancient bridge. The six original bedrooms are cosy, clean and very comfortable. New for 2019 are three fabulous garden rooms, beautifully designed inside and out, with all creature comforts and full of character. Each has its own deck overlooking the glorious, unspoilt Herefordshire countryside. The Riverside won the Visit England Best Tourism Pub 2018 and is perfect for walking, fishing and shooting parties – but what people really come here for is the food. Chef patron Andy Link cooks up a storm. As well as foraging for myriad ingredients, he grows 50 different fruits and vegetables on site and specialises in cooking with local Herefordshire, Shropshire and Welsh border produce. Simply the very best and fabulous value. A true gem. NOTA BENE... Perfectly located on the central point of the scenic Mortimer Trail. Doubles from £80 +44 (0)1568 708440; riversideaymestrey.co.uk

TYDDYN LLAN LLANDRILLO, DENBIGHSHIRE

Just outside Llandrillo stands this modest Georgian house with a sympathetic extension employing local slate and stone. Once a shooting lodge belonging to the Dukes of Westminster, and on the edge of Snowdonia National Park, the house offers stunning views of the Vale of Edeyrnion and the slopes of the Berwyn Mountains beyond. Susan and Bryan Webb (he is the Michelin-starred chef) have been at the helm since 2002. In the dining room, Wedgwood blue with tall windows, you’ll find some of the very best cooking in Wales, from a seasonal menu that changes every day; there’s a superb, excellent value wine list too. There are 12 idiosyncratic but immaculate bedrooms and an elegant garden suite. After an outstanding breakfast, cooked by Bryan, you can follow local walks into the Berwyns or stroll around the four acres of grounds, awash with daffodils in spring, and later linger over afternoon tea by the fire or on the veranda. A lovely, gentle place. NOTA BENE... Ideal for walkers, the adventurous can hike the eight miles from Pistyll Rhaeadr waterfalls over Berwyn Mountain and back to Tyddyn Llan for a delicious, well-earned dinner. Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1490 440264; tyddynllan.co.uk 186 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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Beautifully illuminated life size trees For sales or rental enquiries sales@enchantedtrees.co.uk |

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01428741586

www.enchantedtrees.co.uk

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Karen Deakin, Ard Awakening. Loch Ard, Scotland Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 12 (AA Publishing, ÂŁ25)

Scotland Any nation that chooses the unicorn as its national animal is going to be filled with magic. From winter, when the drams are strong and the fires are peaty, to summer, when the landscape springs to life

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The otherworldly Isle of Skye

Salmon gravadlax at Southside Scran

Scottish Sojourn From cultural Edinburgh to the wild, windswept Highlands, there’s something to tickle everyone’s fancy in bonnie Scotland

ften described as one of the most scenic countries in the world, Scotland’s devotees rave about the incredible variety of landscape: within a fairly small region you’ll find everything from pristine beaches to castletopped crags, luscious wilderness to glistening lochs. There are seven cities in Scotland, the biggest tourist draws being Edinburgh and Glasgow, but Inverness, Aberdeen and Dundee are also full of delights. Home to over 800 small islands, one of the most spectacular is Skye: the largest of the Inner Hebrides, known for its rugged coastlines, towering sea cliffs and pictureperfect waterfalls. Further north there’s Shetland, an archipelago off the coast, recently named one of the top destinations to visit in Europe by Lonely Planet – the only place in the UK to have been selected. You’re never far from spectacular sights, so it’s easy to take famous landmarks for granted. Edinburgh Castle, for instance, is a must-see at the top of an extinct volcano on Castle Rock. There’s also Loch Ness and the Cairngorms, the UK’s largest national park. If it’s culture you’re after, Scotland’s capital city hosts Edinburgh Festival, the largest arts fest in the world, every August. And Glasgow has evolved from shipbuilding hub to cultural powerhouse: don’t miss the Burrell Collection.

Edinburgh Castle

SEE

Seek out off-the-beaten-track spots, like the Fairy Pools on the Isle of Skye, which are as magical as they sound: rock pools of crystal clear water, interspersed with cascading waterfalls from the Cuillin Mountains – a wild swimmer’s dream. Another natural phenomenon is the Corryvreckan Whirlpool, the third largest in the world, lying between the Isles of Jura and Scarba. Beautiful, isolated beaches are to be found across the islands, and the Highlands too – one of the most secluded and unspoilt is Sandwood Bay, a pinkhued beach in the remote northwest. There’s no road access, but the bay can be reached by a gentle four-mile path. Look out for the fabled mermaid, spotted sitting on a rock by a farmer in 1900.

Glasgow University

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EAT

Long-standing Michelin-starred restaurants most notably include the late Andrew Fairlie’s eponymous restaurant at Gleneagles and The Peat Inn, Fife. But Tom Kitchin’s latest venture, Southside Scran in Edinburgh’s burgeoning gourmet neighbourhood Bruntsfield, is typical of the new wave of relaxed dining. southsidescran.com Another Edinburgh gem is The Gardener’s Cottage, a magical space housed in – you guessed it – a single-storey former gardener’s cottage. Found at the foot of Calton Hill, it has just three communal tables. When the 1836 cottage became derelict in 2012, chef duo Ed Murray and Dale Mailley transformed it into a restaurant, with a resident gardener, Charlie, who grows fruit, vegetables and herbs in the front garden. thegardenerscottage.co The influx of buzzy openings has upped Glasgow’s culinary standing, particularly in trendy areas like Finnieston. A cornerstone of this revival is The Gannet on Argyle Street, with a choice of tasting menus. thegannetgla.com

SCOTLAND

The Scottish National Gallery in Edinburgh

BUY

To pick up some of Scotland’s finest local produce, head to one of over 50 farmers’ markets dotted across the country. Fencebay Farmers’ Market, held inside a traditional Ayrshire barn, sells some of the best fish in town. Got all the idea but no gear? Get yourself straight to the House of Bruar. The ultimate country outfitters, they will have you suited and booted for the moors quicker than you can say ‘Lang may yer lum reek!’ Don’t skip its exceptional food hall, it’s the perfect place to stock up on picnic bits. houseofbruar.com Need a new tweed design for your estate? Make a trip to the Isle of Harris, where Harris Tweed still has to be handmade in a crofter’s cottage to count as authentic. First impressions can be deceiving: Donald John Mackay’s Luskentyre premises might look humble, but he’s made tweed for Nike and Ralph Lauren.

DO Delicious oysters from clear Scottish waters

Dean Village on the Water of Leith, Edinburgh

W H E N

Go to Glasgow for its eclectic mix of galleries and museums. A palatial Victorian sandstone building in the city’s West End, the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum is an attraction in its own right, but there’s plenty to intrigue inside too – its 22 galleries house 8,000 objects, including a Salvador Dalí masterpiece, a Spitfire plane and a collection of Scottish arms and armour. Next stop: Edinburgh. After a walk up to Arthur’s Seat, an extinct volcano sitting 251m above sea level, you should visit Dean Village on the Water of Leith: a hidden gem tucked away from the crowds, filled with pretty medieval and Victorian cottages. A short walk from here you’ll find the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, showcasing a superb collection of modern and contemporary art across two venues, within a sculpture park. Head to one of many whisky distilleries – there are over 125 to choose from. A large quantity of these are found in Speyside, including Glenlivet, which sits in a remote glen, and Strathisla: the oldest working distillery in Scotland, dating back to 1786.

T O

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JUNE

AUGUST

DECEMBER

The Skye Food & Drink Festival celebrates all the wonderful food produced on this beautiful, rugged Isle. Follow the food trails across the island for the full experience. skyefoodanddrink festival.co.uk

Edinburgh Festival Fringe is an explosion of culture, featuring a jam-packed programme of comedy, theatre, exhibitions, spoken word, events, music, dance and children’s shows. Runs for the first three weeks of August. edfringe.com

No-one rings in the New Year quite like the Scots, so head to the capital city for Edinburgh Hogmanay: one of the biggest New Year’s celebrations, with street parties, music performances and cèilidhs aplenty. edinburghshogmanay.com

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE BALMORAL EDINBURGH

The Balmoral is Sir Rocco Forte’s iconic five-star property at the heart of Edinburgh, originally built in 1902 in impressive Scottish baronial style as a landmark for Waverley station. One of the world’s great railway hotels, The Balmoral’s iconic clock is set three minutes fast to ensure guests never miss their trains. Exuding a timeless elegance, the bedrooms have been transformed by Olga Polizzi, deputy chairman and director of design for Forte Hotels. Highlights include the large signature suites, the Scone & Crombie and the Glamis. With up to three bedrooms and spacious living rooms, they make the ultimate Edinburgh base for couples and families. The Balmoral’s two restaurants offer a choice of fine or brasserie dining. Number One features a Michelin-starred menu celebrating Scottish produce. Brasserie Prince by Alain Roux marries the best of Scottish ingredients with French cooking. Afternoon tea is served under the dome of splendid Palm Court, while the noted whisky bar, SCOTCH, is a must for anyone partial to a dram from the 500-strong collection. NOTA BENE... Edinburgh has more listed buildings than anywhere else in the world. Doubles from £245 +44 (0)1315 562414; roccofortehotels.com

CAVENS KIRKBEAN, DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY

A beautifully restored Georgian country house, Cavens was built in 1752 by the influential Oswald family and numbered Rabbie Burns among its most celebrated early visitors. With its idyllic location near the Solway Coast, warm hospitality from hands-on owners, Angus and Jane Fordyce, and wealth of original features, Cavens is unlike a typical luxury hotel. While it has the comfort and style of Scotland’s finest establishments, staying here is more like staying with friends. Whether it’s the gleaming antiques or fresh ingredients for Angus’ outstanding locally-sourced dinners (three courses plus breakfast included in the room rate), everything has a personal, handpicked feel. The elegant country-house sitting rooms are relaxed and inviting with roaring log fires, comfy sofas, table lamps, rugs and books. Nothing has been forgotten in the six bedrooms – Roberts radios, tea, coffee, home-made biscuits – all decorated with character and care. After 19 years, the Fordyces are exceptional hosts and in Cavens they’ve created a place to stay with soul. NOTA BENE... Cavens hosted the cast of The Wife, including Glenn Close and Jonathan Pryce, during filming on the Solway Coast. Doubles from £290 +44 (0)1387 880234; cavens.com 192 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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SCOTLAND

DUNALASTAIR HOTEL SUITES KINLOCH RANNOCH, PERTHSHIRE

With a 200-year history and a recent multimillion-pound refurbishment, this stone-built, privately-owned luxury hotel provides excellent boutique accommodation in a flourishing village in the Scottish Highlands. A friendly face – a 'Guest Ambassador' – will greet you and ease your way through check-in. Every guest’s comfort and needs, along with sustainability, are key to Dunalastair Hotel Suite’s ethos. The interior is chic, with roomy suites designed for relaxation. They have handmade beds dressed in Egyptian cotton, gleaming bathrooms with fluffy robes, White Company toiletries and views to die for. Each also has a mini kitchen in its living room, although the on-site fine dining restaurant, Edina’s, is open all day offering an authentic Scottish menu of local ingredients freshly prepared by chefs trained in Michelin-starred and Rosette-winning restaurants. They’ll also create a packed lunch if you’re heading out for the day. NOTA BENE... Originally established in 1788, the hotel is one of the Scottish Highlands’ oldest hotels. That said, there’s now a helicopter landing pad as well as a Tesla car charging point. Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1882 580444; dunalastairhotel.com

THE DUNSTANE HOUSES EDINBURGH

Two handsome Victorian villas standing opposite each other have been transformed into a single stylish family-run boutique hotel that offers a unique bolthole in Edinburgh. Infused with the spirit and romance of Orkney, where the owners’ roots lie, the interior blends the elegance of the neoclassical Old Town with vintage touches, contemporary flair and well-chosen art; it’s a decorative approach that’s both striking and subtle. The 35 bedrooms, spread between Dunstane House and Hampton House, are all different. Yours might have bold wallpaper and fabrics, a theatrical headboard, classic four-poster bed, in-room Victorian rolltop or fabulous Fired Earth bathroom. They cater to most budgets, from ‘cosy wee doubles’ to uber-luxurious suites. At the heart of the hotel, the elegantly laid-back Ba’ Bar provides all-day dining from a seasonally changing modern Scottish menu, and there’s an impressive selection of premium craft spirits. The whisky cabinet is a connoisseur’s treasure trove of vintage single malts and blends. NOTA BENE... To arrive in style, just ask to be met in one of the owner’s vintage cars. Doubles from £174 +44 (0)1313 376169; thedunstane.com 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 193

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE FIFE ARMS BRAEMAR, ABERDEENSHIRE

If you think that Scottish hotels, especially ones close to The Queen’s beloved Balmoral Castle, are set in their ways, then get ready to have your preconceptions turned inside out, upside down and round and round in a whirl. The Fife Arms, opened earlier this year, in the heart of Braemar, is Instagram gold. Its interiors by Russell Sage recall the busy, eclectic taste of the Victorian era, with the richest of wallpapers, brocades, velvets, taxidermy and grandfather clocks – full of interest and yet never fusty. The art, courtesy of its owners, international gallerists Iwan and Manuela Wirth, is simply amazing: a Picasso dominates the tartan-walled drawing room; there’s a Lucien Freud, a Louise Bourgeois spider, an extraordinary ceiling by Zhang Enli, a flying stag with swan’s wings in the bar. Locals congregate here: The Fife Arms is first and foremost a place of hospitality and you will eat, drink, relax and sleep here as well as in any traditional, comforting Scottish hotel. Just don’t forget your camera. NOTA BENE... The Fife Arms was officially opened in January 2019 by the Prince of Wales and the Duchess of Cornwall. Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1339 720200; thefifearms.com

FINGAL LEITH, EDINBURGH

All aboard! Here’s a hotel with a difference – Fingal started life in 1963 as a lighthouse tender that battled the storm-lashed seas to take supplies to remote lighthouses. Today, it’s a gorgeous boutique hotel with 23 luxurious cabins, permanently berthed in Leith’s Alexandra Dock. The transformation has been immaculate, the attention to detail evident in every polished contour and curve. For cocktails and supper, The Lighthouse Bar is glamorous yet relaxed, with floor-to-ceiling windows, granite bar, shimmering ceiling, the softest leather seats and an excellent seasonal menu that includes salmon smoked on board. Head out on deck for romantic drinks, stargazing or to catch the sunset. Retiring to your welcoming and romantic cabin is a treat in itself, each with original portholes, angles and tilts that are cleverly incorporated into a contemporary design. Kingsized beds are dressed in fine linen and there’s a host of pampering extras. For exclusive parties, Fingal even has an elegant ballroom, seating 60. NOTA BENE... In its former life as a Northern Lighthouse Board ship, the NLB’s Patron, HRH The Princess Royal, had her own quarters. Doubles from £300 +44 (0)1313 575000; fingal.co.uk 194 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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SCOTLAND

KILLIECRANKIE HOTEL PITLOCHRY, PERTHSHIRE

Praise for this adorable hotel continues unabated. ‘We believe in good old-fashioned hospitality,’ says owner Henrietta Fergusson, ‘and always welcome guests with a complimentary afternoon tea.’ And there lies the secret to Killiecrankie: the down-to-earth, very Scottish warmth and hospitality extended by Henrietta and her tartan-trousered staff. With direct access to the beautiful Pass of Killiecrankie, the whitewashed 1840s house has been a hotel since 1939 and has retained its traditional homely feel through several upgrades. A four-course table d’hôte dinner is served formally in the dining room, with lighter dishes available in the Bar Conservatory. The ten bedrooms are elegant, with rich colours, fine fabrics and fresh flowers. They overlook perhaps the most memorable feature of Killiecrankie, its enchanting, oldfashioned garden. ‘I don’t want this to be a “treat” sort of place,’ says Henrietta. ‘I just hope people might say, “Let’s go to Killiecrankie and unwind for a couple of days”.’ Absolutely. NOTA BENE... Visit Blair Castle, seat of the Dukes of Atholl and home to the Atholl Highlanders, the sole private army left in Europe. Doubles from £290, including dinner +44 (0)1796 473220; killiecrankiehotel.co.uk

KIMPTON CHARLOTTE SQUARE EDINBURGH

One of the smartest addresses in Edinburgh’s New Town, this hotel occupies seven interconnected townhouses overlooking the square’s garden and has been revamped and re-branded by the California-based group, Kimpton. Once past the classical Georgian exterior, you’ll be struck by the hip interior, combining handsome woods, plush fabrics and splashes of colour to dramatic effect. The Garden, a glass-topped central courtyard and riot of hanging plants and wicker, is a buzzy place ‘to meet, snack and drink’, from morning till late, while BABA serves inventive dishes that blend Middle Eastern and Scottish cuisines. If you overindulge, work out in the well-equipped fitness centre or relax in the cutting-edge spa. The 199 stylish bedrooms and suites celebrate the golden age of travel through curated art, books and objects; thoughtful extras include yoga mats. NOTA BENE... It is one of the only hotels in Scotland that houses a hotel within the hotel. Exclusive town house No.33 has welcomed everyone from the Spice Girls to Gary Barlow through its private door. Doubles from £180 +44 (0)1312 405500; kimptoncharlottesquare.com 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 195

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

KINLOCH LODGE ISLE OF SKYE, ROSS-SHIRE

Skye is one of the most spectacular places on earth and Kinloch sits in one of its most beautiful parts, the shores of Loch na Dal. Fittingly, given its history as a hunting lodge, it offers the services of its own ‘ghillie’ for stalking, fishing or foraging. Foodies flock here. Hardly surprising, since it belongs to cookery writer Lady Claire Macdonald and her husband, Lord Godfrey. Although no longer living here, their reputation for the best Highland hospitality continues as their charming daughter, Isabella, is at the helm. Brazilian-born Marcello Tully, in charge of the restaurant for more than a decade, has kept Kinloch’s international culinary reputation flourishing. Inside there is a welcoming mix of the well-bred and the unpretentious, with antiques, family portraits and a cosy whisky bar for a nightcap before bed in one of the attractive, seriously comfortable rooms. Kinloch is somewhere to relax and recharge, and almost impossible to leave. NOTA BENE... Kinloch’s Skye Ghillie is your personal guide for fly fishing, foraging, deer stalking and wilderness walks – knowledgeable and known for providing great ‘craic’. Doubles from £150 B&B and dinner +44 (0)1471 833333; kinloch-lodge.co.uk

KNOCKINAAM LODGE PORTPATRICK, DUMFRIES AND GALLOWAY

This former Victorian hunting lodge is an award-winning small luxury hotel, located on its own beach, with lawns sweeping down to the sea. There are ten bedrooms, one of Scotland’s finest restaurants and a wood-panelled whisky bar, home to more than 100 malts. Historically significant, this stunning spot was a secret meeting place between Winston Churchill and General Eisenhower during World War II and continues to offer the perfect tonic for anyone wishing to escape the limelight for a slower pace of life. Fresh produce from the hotel’s kitchen garden and local suppliers provides award-winning head chef Tony Pierce with the perfect ingredients for his delectable menus, presented at dinner over five courses – a true taste of Scotland. Knockinaam Lodge is a delight and there’s plenty to see in this wonderful corner of the country: Scotland’s National Book Town in Wigtown, the UK’s first Dark Sky Park in Galloway Forest, pretty fishing village Portpatrick and beautiful Logan Botanic Garden. NOTA BENE... Knockinaam has a glittering array of awards, including three AA food rosettes and a five gold star ‘restaurant with rooms’ rating. From £155 per person, including dinner +44 (0)1776 810471; knockinaamlodge.com 196 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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SCOTLAND

PERLE OBAN OBAN, ARGYLL AND BUTE

Only a hop from the station and the ferry terminal, Perle Oban has the same imposing Victorian façade it had in its previous incarnations, first as the Station hotel and later the Oban Caledonian. It was originally built to provide comfortable accommodation and excellent food for passengers of the new railways and those travelling to the Hebrides from ‘the gateway to the Isles’. Once inside, you’ll be struck by how successfully it has moved with the times. This is a boutique hotel for the 21st century, with sharp good looks, contemporary furniture, blond wood and decoration that mixes white with bold colours; not a scrap of tartan in sight – a breath of fresh air north of the border. The 59 rooms are equipped with Nespresso machines, Bose sound systems and state-of-the-art bathrooms. For sustenance, Brew & Co offers artisan coffees and teas, cakes and cocktails, and BAAB Grill is a buzzy restaurant specialising in fabulous Eastern Mediterranean food. Don’t forget to fit in a visit to Oban’s famous distillery. NOTA BENE... Perle wants to be a sustainable member of the local community and started by donating earlier furniture to homeless charities. Doubles from £129 +44 (0)1631 700301; perleoban.com

PRESTONFIELD EDINBURGH

Let’s face it, they don’t make hotels like Prestonfield anymore. Not usually. It’s romantic, it’s opulent and it’s shamelessly seductive. The mansion, in a quiet location, gives no hint of what lies inside. Minimalism be damned. There are swags and columns, brocades and velvets, rich colours and intimate corners. Bedrooms are better described as boudoirs, where velvet, silk and antiques mix with high-tech playthings, and surfaces are scattered with flowers, fruit and candles. Suites are even more lavish: a Gothic day bed, a velvet-hung four-poster, silk toile wallpaper, a silver chariot bath. The two oval-shaped dining rooms become a candlelit Gothic fantasy at night, and the food and the hotel’s impressive wine cellar live up to the ambience. Staff are relaxed and friendly, and will track you down in whatever intimate sitting room (there are at least four) you are curled up in. And, once you manage to uncurl, Edinburgh awaits. NOTA BENE... The hotel has always welcomed presidents, princes and stars of stage and screen, including Lauren Bacall, the Dalai Lama, Elton John and Sean Connery. Doubles from £345 +44 (0)1312 257800; prestonfield.com 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 197

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

SCHLOSS ROXBURGHE KELSO, ROXBURGHSHIRE

A schloss in Scotland? Yes indeed: the newminted Roxburghe Hotel in the Scottish Borders, formerly owned by the Duke of Roxburghe, now mixes traditional Scottish hospitality with German innovation and sky-high standards. Re-opened in June this year after an extensive refurbishment by its new owners, the hotel has never looked better. Interiors by Kitzig Interior Design combine classic and contemporary with a mix of materials: Scottish patterns and colours, oak, natural stone and linen. The house itself, which stands in wooded grounds bordering the River Teviot, has had an eventful history but the current incarnation is typically solid Scottish Victorian, scented by woodsmoke and whisky. The 20 bedrooms are individually decorated and in the Sunlaws restaurant the estate-to-plate ingredients focus on modern Scottish dishes with a French twist. The country sporting and leisure facilities on the hotel’s estate are second to none, from fishing to tomahawk throwing, and the 18hole golf course is a championship one. NOTA BENE... The historic 300-acre estate has hosted many aristocratic guests, including, reputedly, Bonnie Prince Charlie back in 1745. Doubles from £295 + 44 (0)1573 450331; schlosshotel-roxburghe.com

THE TORRIDON TORRIDON, WESTER ROSS

A former (and still very grand) shooting lodge, The Torridon has one of the Highlands’ most stunning locations. It stands on a beautiful sea loch in 58 acres of parkland with breathtaking views. The staff are charming and it has a particularly fine interior. The public rooms have been lovingly restored to their former glory and the 18 gorgeous bedrooms combine the elegantly classic with an upbeat contemporary look. In the attractive sitting room, relax in a window seat perfectly positioned for the view. At restaurant 1887 head chef Ross Stovold serves dishes that evolve with the micro-seasons in the hills, loch and kitchen garden, many of them plant-based. After dinner, head for the whisky bar, stocked with 365 malts and 120 gins, including the hotel’s own. Activities on the doorstep range from mountain biking and kayaking to wildlife safari. You’ll find simpler rooms at the cosy Torridon Inn and the self-catered Boat House (weekly lets only). NOTA BENE... Celebrity guests include Claire Danes, Michelle Pfeiffer and Mark Strong during the filming of Stardust (2007) and Guy Ritchie and Charlie Hunnam during the filming of King Arthur: Legend of the Sword (2017). Doubles from £225 +44 (0)1445 791242; thetorridon.com 198 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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SCOTLAND

TRIGONY HOUSE CLOSEBURN, DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY

Run with care and dedication since 1999 by Adam and Jan Moore, Trigony House offers everything one looks for in a small, private country-house hotel: good food, comfortable bedrooms, unfussy country style and a wonderful garden, grounds and landscape all around. If you are looking for a pet-friendly hotel, make tracks, for at award-winning Trigony dogs aren’t just allowed, they are greeted with a welcome box and by resident golden retriever Roxy. And if you would like to experience a house that was once home for a 100 years to Scotland’s oldest woman (who died aged 107) and the sense of peace it exudes, then double your efforts. For breakfast and dinner you will eat the best of produce from the local farming community and from the hotel’s own walled garden, while the house itself is full of period features, including Japanese oak panelling and art deco windows. ‘The Lord bless thy coming out and going in’, announces an inscription above the front door. A lovely place. NOTA BENE... Guests have exclusive use of Micro Thermal Spa with wood-fired hot tub, Finnish sauna cabin and holistic and organic Ishga treatment room. Doubles from £130 B&B +44 (0)1848 331211; trigonyhotel.co.uk

THE WITCHERY BY THE CASTLE EDINBURGH

James Thomson’s Gothic conversion of this 16th-century building is as darkly mysterious and thrillingly exotic as Prestonfield House, his other hotel (see page 197). At the top of Edinburgh’s historic Royal Mile, you enter through an ancient close into a flamboyantly theatrical world, where ceilings are richly gilded and painted walls are hung with tapestries or panelled in oak, and rooms are decorated in jewel-like colours with swathes of velvet. Its nine suites are vast, sumptuous and wickedly romantic, furnished with four-posters or extravagantly curtained beds, antiques and oil paintings. A celebrity haunt, the Witchery restaurant not only looks magical, with its red leather seats, panelling and candlelight, but showcases the best produce Scotland has to offer. The Angus beef steak tartare is legendary. In summer, there’s al fresco dining on the private terrace of the hotel’s other restaurant, the Secret Garden NOTA BENE... The Witchery takes its name from the hundreds of women burned at the stake as witches on Castlehill during the 16th and 17th centuries. Doubles from £365 +44 (0)1312 255613; thewitchery.com 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 199

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Republic of Ireland

PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES

Given that Nigeria consumes more Guinness than the Irish do, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to forget everything you thought you knew about the Emerald Isle and rediscover it for real

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The Claddagh Galway. Galway City, Ireland

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Ruins of Three Castle Head, County Cork

Loam champions local produce

Fall for Ireland It’s easy to be swept away by the island’s rich myths and legends

rom the very first visit, your heart never really leaves Ireland. We’re not sure exactly what it is about the Emerald Isle, but holidays here seem to take on an otherworldly magic. The dramatic scenery certainly has something to do with it. From windswept road trips along the 1600-mile Wild Atlantic Way to the rocky fissures of the Burren, and from Connemara’s stampeding ponies to Glendalough’s monastically still lakes, this is a landscape that can’t be tamed. In fact, that’s perhaps why – despite being ostensibly based in Scotland – most scenes in Mel Gibson’s Braveheart were actually filmed here. With over 30,000 of them, you can’t move for castles in Ireland. Some have been left to ruin but many more have been lovingly restored and converted into stately hotels and other attractions, most famously Blarney Castle, which draws people to kiss the Blarney stone, in the hope of increasing their powers of eloquence. Easily accessible from Dublin, the Ancient East are the counties with 5,000 years of history, richly interwoven by the country’s storytelling tradition – every cairn, turret and hill has its own tale to tell. And if it’s Hollywood legends you’re after, Ireland has provided the backdrop to everything from Harry Potter to Star Wars.

Coasteering on Clare Island

SEE

If you’ve a good head for heights and aspire to a bird’s eye view of the picturesque coast, climb one of Donegal’s 100 or so sea stacks, some of which – apparently – have been less visited than the moon. If you don’t know your ACD from your anchor, Iain Miller of Unique Ascent will take you on a taster session up Berg Stack. uniqueascent.ie Ireland has 900 miles of coastline waiting to be explored. The best way to see the otherworldliness of Clare Island is a coasteering expedition, so you can channel your inner Gráinne (Grace) O’Malley, the pirate queen who once called the island home. Today just 150 people live there, so you’re unlikely to be disturbed as you swim through coves and leap from cliffs. clareislandadventures.ie

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EAT

After something traditional? Two-Michelin-starred Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud has been a reliable source of fine dining in Dublin since 1981. Set in a modern townhouse, the menu effortlessly interchanges Irish and French cooking. restaurantpatrickguilbaud.ie Having won Ireland’s Restaurant of the Year in 2019, Galway city’s Michelin-starred restaurant and wine bar, Loam, is a must-visit. It’s headed up by Enda McEvoy, a former chef of the year, and ingredients come from the west of Ireland’s local farmers and producers. loamgalway.com Richard Corrigan bought Virginia Park Lodge 28 years after he married his wife there, and he’s been restoring it to its 18thcentury former glory ever since, including the magnificent vegetable patch, fertile enough to supply Corrigan’s London restaurants as well as this one. virginiaparklodge.com

REPUBLIC OF IRELAND

Quirky finds at April and the Bear

BUY

Kehoes, for the black stuff

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

A concept lifestyle store in Dublin selling stylish and unusual picks covering jewellery, art and interiors, April and the Bear is just one example of Ireland’s abundance of unique and quirky independent shops. With prices to suit all pockets, pop in to find a gift you won’t find anywhere else. aprilandthebear.com Dublin’s Books Upstairs is the original independent bookshop we all wish we had in our hometown. You can’t fail to leave without a new tome under your arm or long to settle in for an afternoon readathon in its cosy café. Ask the friendly staff to advise on Irish literature to take home, to remind you of your travels. dublintown.ie Prepare to apologise to fellow cabin members on your flight home for packing Hegarty’s award-winning Teampall Gael cheese in your hand luggage – but you won’t regret it. This raw milk comté-style cheese is matured for a minimum of nine months. Nuttily delicious, and we think better than the French version. hegartycheese.ie

An exhilarating ride along the surf

W H E N

Country dining at Virginia Park Lodge

If you’d rather not hoof it barefoot in the waves, why not gallop along the beach instead? Croagh Patrick Stables in County Mayo take riders out at low tide to trot through the water’s edge. A movie-worthy moment. Don’t visit the Guinness factory. For an authentic pint just head to Kehoes in Dublin, where draughts of the black stuff are so well pulled, they run like cream. Aesthetically stuck in a time warp since it opened in 1803, Kehoe’s is like an exceptional country pub in the centre of the city. kehoesdublin.ie Rich in Vitamin B and with antiinflammatory properties, seaweed works wonders for the skin. Slather it over your whole body at Voya Seaweed Baths and your stressed-out mind will feel soothed too. They guarantee the best quality by hand-harvesting organic seaweed from the Atlantic coast. The plant’s iodine content is an added bonus for healthy thyroid function. voyaseaweedbaths.com

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It’s hard to imagine the Burren’s lunar-like surface supporting any life in winter. But come spring it erupts into a carpet of wildflowers. Stop at the Burren Perfumery for scents inspired by the landscape. burrenperfumery.com

Hiking is much more fun when armed with a bat detector. Glendalough offers talks at the park’s Education Centre, where you see bats fly out of the roof at dusk, before following them through the forest. visitwicklow.ie

Love to be spun a good yarn? Embrace Ireland’s rich narrative tradition at Cape Clear Island International Storytelling Festival, which has been a staple on the calendar since 1994. capeclearstorytelling.com

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BALLYFIN BALLYFIN, CO. LAOIS

One of Ireland’s most important neoclassical houses, Ballyfin stands in its own 614-acre demesne, including lake, Victorian fernery, Edwardian rockery and walled garden, not to mention the tower with panoramic views. A Downton-esque knot of staff awaits guests on the steps as they arrive, setting the tone for service that is old school yet warm and friendly. The reception rooms are filled with superb antiques and paintings and there’s the fabulous indoor pool, vitality pool, sauna and treatment rooms. The 20 bedrooms are all gorgeous, in classic Irish country house fashion. There is also a beautiful private Gardener’s Cottage available to rent. As for the food, with the highly regarded Sam Moody at the helm – he won a Michelin star for Bath Priory – it effortlessly lives up to the surroundings. Standards are sky high at Ballyfin, and it’s the sort of place where one jarring note would spoil the show. Happily, it never does: this is one of Europe’s great hotels. NOTA BENE... Richard E Grant said, ‘It was like stepping back in time, without the inconvenience of no electricity. The personal attention... the welcome of the people, the setting, the food.’ Doubles from €580 (about £517) +353 (0)5787 55866; ballyfin.com

BALLYVOLANE HOUSE CASTLELYONS, COUNTY CORK

Imagine a grand, Italianate, Irish Georgian country house, gorgeous but lived-in and run as a guest house by its old-school owners since the mid-1980s. Imagine their son growing up there, then leaving to work at the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong and later as general manager at Babington House. Imagine him returning home to take over the reins and run the hotel his way. You are imagining Ballyvolane. Filled with antiques, oozing atmosphere, it’s also – thanks to deft touches from Justin Green and his wife Jenny – somewhere that’s cool and stylish too. It’s that hard-to-achieve ideal: a place where guests can unwind but feel glamorous and special too. There are Persian rugs, antiques, quirky retro tables, roaring fires and a lavishly stocked honesty bar, with Justin’s own delicious gin, Bertha’s Revenge, taking pride of place. The bedrooms are lovely, and the food – eaten communally unless you specify otherwise (you won’t) – delicious. Breakfast is whenever you want. There’s glamping too, in the lovely gardens, and fishing. NOTA BENE... Bertha’s Revenge Small Batch Irish Milk Gin is made from local cows’ milk, water from their well and foraged botanicals. Doubles from €200 (about £175) B&B +353 (0)2536 349; ballyvolanehouse.ie 204 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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REPUBLIC OF IRELAND

CLIFF AT LYONS CELBRIDGE, COUNTY KILDARE

Just a half-hour’s drive from both Dublin city and Dublin airport, Cliff is a lovingly restored village offering 38 en suite bedrooms spread between eight neighbouring cut stone buildings. The choice of rooms ranges from wisteria-clad selfcontained apartments and cottages decorated in classic style – chintz, wood panelling and antiques – to contemporary hotel bedrooms with smart plain fabrics and fashionable design. There are also three restaurants on site, including the romantic all-glass, domed Orangery, the perfect setting to showcase Cliff’s outstanding culinary creations. All three focus on local produce, from the famed Dublin Bay prawns and Galway oysters to an impressive selection of Irish cheeses. Activities include canal-side walks and bike rides or a variety of pampering sessions in the Well in the Garden, a luxury spa in the beautifully renovated Carriage House, using its own allnatural, all-Irish range of products. Fabulous for a wedding, celebratory event or simply a holiday. NOTE BENE... Arthur Guinness, the founder of the Guinness brewery business and Ireland’s national beer, was born at Celbridge and is buried just a 15-minute walk from the estate. Doubles from €170 (about £147) +353 (0)1630 3500; cliffatlyons.ie 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 205

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

CURRAREVAGH HOUSE LOUGH CORRIB, COUNTY GALWAY

‘Things have always stayed the same here,’ says Henry Hodgson, the fifth generation to run the family home as a guest house, ‘it would be rude to change them now.’ And that’s the joy of this Victorian country house. Beautifully set on Lough Corrib, with huge sash windows and original shutters, the house was built in 1842, though the family has owned the estate since the 18th century. Inside, you are transported to a calmer, more dignified time (wifi is the only modern concession), where a gong heralds dinner and the breakfast coffee is served in original ’50s glass Cona receptacles, warmed by methylated spirit burners. Henry is charming and funny and totally at ease; his wife Lucy (they have three young daughters) is a marvellous cook and dinner is always delicious. You feel completely relaxed: what more could you possibly want? Room keys? ‘We don’t have them,’ says Henry, ‘your things will be perfectly safe.’ And you know, without doubt, that he speaks the truth. NOTA BENE... Currarevagh first welcomed paying guests in 1890, as a sporting lodge. Doubles from €160 (about £144) +353 (0)9155 2312; currarevagh.com

THE MERRION DUBLIN

Dublin’s finest hotel is effortlessly gracious. Everything feels right, from the location opposite Government Buildings to the twinkly doormen, polished service and classically elegant bedrooms. Four tall and sober Georgian townhouses – one of which was the birthplace of the first Duke of Wellington – have been opened up to create a series of expansive, welcoming reception rooms with stucco ceilings, peat fires, antique furniture and the owner’s outstanding collection of 19th- and 20thcentury Irish art, which you can learn about in a discreet audio tour. Just as impressive is the formal garden, graced by Rowan Gillespie’s wonderful statue of James Joyce. The fine dining restaurant is the two Michelin-starred province of Patrick Guilbaud, and there’s a spa with pillared infinity pool. No surprise that charming general manager, Peter MacCann, has been in place since the Merrion opened, but quite a surprise to find that was just 21 years ago. It feels timeless. NOTA BENE... The Merrion has one of Ireland’s largest private art collections, the inspiration for its Art Teas, with edible confections inspired by the works of JB Yeats and other Irish artists. Doubles from €290 (about £261) +353 (0)1603 0600; merrionhotel.com 206 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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REPUBLIC OF IRELAND

NO. 1 PERY SQUARE LIMERICK

In Limerick’s Georgian Quarter, this friendly and welcoming boutique hotel has great period charm, the benefit of a soothing Voya organic spa and a cosy and congenial first floor restaurant, Sash, as well as an attractive bar for lunches and teas. The main building is a tall, elegant Georgian townhouse (No. 1) on the city’s most gracious square, while the entrance is round the corner in Barrington Street, in a building with 16 contemporary bedrooms, the restaurant and basement spa. A connecting corridor, flanked by a garden, leads to the elegant, beautifully proportioned 1830 townhouse with its ground floor bar/lounge, first floor drawing room and four classic bedrooms on the floors above, all with views, heritage colours, huge beds and thick carpets plus large bathrooms with roll-top baths and separate rain showers. The hotel is full of pictures, objects and flowers, as befits a well-cared-for place, privately owned by local Patricia Roberts. Service is typically Irish: warm, humorous and kind. NOTA BENE... One of the club guest rooms is named after Seamus Heaney, who stayed here on his many visits to Limerick Literary Festival. Doubles from £145 +353 (0)6140 2402; oneperysquare.com

THE WESTBURY DUBLIN

Standards are always high at The Doyle Collection, and never more so than at The Westbury. Like its three London sisters, The Kensington (page 115), The Bloomsbury (page 110) and The Marylebone (page 118), it marries sleek design with intuitive staff and luxuriously comfortable rooms and suites. Its unrivalled location, overlooking Grafton Street, brings a galaxy of consumer delights. After a long day your room will seem like the answer to a prayer – enveloping and soothing in shades of taupe, with custom-woven Irish wool carpets, mohair-covered chairs and underfloor-heated marble bathrooms. For dining there’s Balfes, a contemporary cross between New York eatery and Parisian brasserie, where the dishes match the edgy decor, or haute cuisine at the sophisticated Wilde. Don’t miss afternoon tea on The Gallery, surrounded by some unforgettable paintings. The Sidecar, meanwhile, is a stylish modern take on a ’30s cocktail bar. NOTA BENE... The Westbury’s Gallery is wellnamed, being home to one of Ireland’s leading private art collections, including works by Norah McGuinness, Barrie Cooke, John Lavery, Patrick Scott and Louis le Brocquy. Doubles from €295 (about £251) +353 (0)1679 1122; doylecollection.com 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 207

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Private Houses All the perks of a luxury hotel with the privacy and comfort of home. Rent a private house for gatherings large and small

The Old Dairy in the charming village of Bloxham, Oxfordshire beachspoke.com

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

16A WINCHESTER WINCHESTER, HAMPSHIRE

With just three gorgeous rooms available, each containing the heavenly comfort of a super king bed, 16a Winchester takes boutique selfcatering to a new, more intimate level. The exquisite interiors of the house rely on top quality furnishings and natural materials to create warm, inviting environments you won’t want to leave: sip champagne on your comfy window seat or bathe beneath the stars on the mezzanine level. Room 41 is classy, reminiscent of a New York loft apartment with exposed brickwork and industrial lighting. Room 19 is the brighter, more sensual one, whereas Room 98 maxes out on space and style as the biggest room of the lot. Similarly, the shared spaces, which include a large kitchen, decadent library, movie room and hallway complete with grand piano, are fullyequipped and designed as a proper home from home. If you do feel the need to step outdoors, you’re in the heart of Winchester – home to Rick Stein’s eponymous restaurant and River Cottage Canteen as well as umpteen independent shops where you can browse the hours away. NOTA BENE... 16a was a dance hall and hosted Women’s Society meetings during World War II. Doubles from £155 +44 (0)7730 510663; 16a-winchester.co.uk

BARSHAM BARNS NORTH BARSHAM, NORFOLK

For a break from the city there’s no better bolthole than Barsham Barns. Complete with swallows, barn owls and panoramic views of the unspoilt countryside around North Barsham, they offer a luxury self-catering experience that will win the hearts of the whole family. A ten-seater Jacuzzi and steam room mean staying on site is a holiday in itself, but for the adventurous the beautiful North Norfolk coast is nearby, and Blakeney, Wells-next-theSea, Burnham Market and Holkham are just a few miles away. The oldest of the barns, Long Meadow, dates back to 1715, and all six have been authentically restored by an award-winning architect. High Barsham was once a threshing barn and now sleeps 12, with an airy and bright dining space. The cosier Little Barsham was originally used to rear lambs. Collectively, the venue can comfortably host 52, making it the perfect pastoral setting for weddings or corporate events, and outside catering can be arranged. NOTA BENE... The Queen and the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge already have homes in Norfolk, and rumour has it that soon the Duke and Duchess of Sussex will be joining them From £450 to £2,750 per weekend +44 (0)1328 821744; barshambarns.co.uk 210 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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PRIVATE HOUSES

CASTLE OF PARK BANFF, ABERDEENSHIRE

This is the most authentic stay in a Scottish castle you’ll find (unless, of course, you already have your own). The main family residence of the Campbell Wilson clan, it’s a true home from home, except that it’s filled with gallery-worthy art and antiques (the previous laird was an art dealer). Available to rent in its entirety, the members of your party can do battle over exceptional self-contained suites or cosy rooms filled with all comforts. The current laird, Becky Campbell Wilson, is a keen open water swimmer, hence the ‘endless’ pool that uses dual propulsion for endurance training – it really livens up laps before breakfast. In winter, settle in front of the fire with a local dram, come summer, spend your days wafting from croquet on the lawn to the laburnum walk, rose garden and labyrinth. It’s the ideal setting from which to explore Banffshire’s whisky distilleries and world-class fishing, and to visit the shore for whale- and dolphin-spotting. NOTA BENE... The stunning Banffshire coast is one of the world’s ‘outstanding coastlines’ according to National Geographic. From £2,100 for a weekend, depending on season +44 (0)1466 751595; castleofpark.co.uk

FALDONSIDE MELROSE, ROXBURGHSHIRE

Home is where the heart is, and for Pete Maitland-Carew that was the Scottish Borders where he grew up and to which he returned in 2012 with his wife Posy, to breathe life back into a family farmhouse with two self-catered cottages. Heated by a biomass boiler and powered by solar energy, this eco-friendly project radiates personality, thanks mostly to Posy’s eye, trained in constructed textiles – as you can see in the eclectic choice of upholstery. Unusual details like the textured window frames, made by local joiners from salvaged sycamore, give this property real soul. Choose from the twobedroomed Number One Melrose in the centre of the town, the Scandi-inspired Studio, or The Lodge, an ultra-romantic cottage overlooking Faldonside loch. You can’t go wrong with any of them. And in the middle of 500 privately-owned acres, you won’t be disturbed. NOTA BENE... The Studio and Lodge are in the Melrose hills overlooking the loch and Yair valley, on the neighbouring estate to Sir Walter Scott's former home, Abbotsford House. He loved riding his horse across this landscape and helped design the planting of woodlands at Faldonside. From £435 for a long weekend +44 (0)7968 997929; faldonsideescapes.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 211

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23/07/2019 11:49

C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

FARLEIGH WALLOP HAMPSHIRE, ENGLAND

As if lifted from a fairytale, Farleigh House sits proudly at the heart of a 4,000-acre estate and down an ancient tree-lined avenue, completely secluded from the outside world, and yet only an hour’s drive from London. Owned and tended to by the same family since the 15th century, despite its air of grandeur, Farleigh House is above all a home, and one which now opens its doors for exclusive-use stays. Within the Georgian stone walls (it was rebuilt in 1731), the house has been completely refurbished, comprising luxury and comfort alongside its historial treasures. This house was made for entertaining, with its acres of formal gardens, 11 bedrooms, cinema and billiards room, plus a croquet lawn, cricket pitch and lake complete with rowing boat for sunny days. The fully staffed house can assist with everything from selecting wines to coordinating a pheasant shoot or a day of exploring the estate on horseback or mountain bike. NOTA BENE... A beautiful apple tree in the orchard originates from the cutting of a cutting of the very tree Sir Isaac Newton sat under before a fruit dropped in 1666, and the world changed. From £6,000 per night, fully catered +44 (0)1256 301525; farleighwallop.com

GAIRNSHIEL LODGE BALLATER, SCOTLAND

It might be a former hunting lodge used by Queen Victoria but there’s nothing Victorian whatsoever about the interior of this serene lodge, done out in uber-tasteful linens, raw materials and soothing natural tones. There are lots of lovely nooks and crannies to mooch between – the sauna and outdoor jacuzzi are particularly welcome after a long day on the moors. With shooting rights to 20,000 acres, they offer two to four consecutive driven grouse days to Gairnshiel and Micras moors. For a slower pace, take a leisurely hour and a half’s walk to the lunch hut, where an aperitif and barbecue await your efforts. On the doorstep is Balmoral, mountain biking through the Cairngorms and accessible but beautiful hiking trails. Sleeping up to 16, fully catered, expect wholesome food to nourish the soul, or you can book one night B&B. This is the new way to do luxury in the Highlands. NOTA BENE... The Queen is a near neighbour at Balmoral. Fron £270 per night +44 (0)7512 246363; gairnshiellodge.co.uk 212 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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PRIVATE HOUSES

LOYTON LODGE TIVERTON, DEVON

In 2003, Alick and Sally Barnes renovated Loyton Lodge, a traditional Devon courtyard farm, and relaunched it as a country house party space for groups of people united in their desire for uncluttered comfort, a relaxed atmosphere, fabulous food and excellent wine. It is indeed all that and much more besides – their daughter Isobel now manages the ten bedrooms and hosts shooting parties throughout the winter and tailor-made private parties and B&B during the summer season. She’s also the creative inspiration behind Loyton, running music events, food festivals and artist workshops in their unique party tent. The Lodge itself is a mix of slateroofed, traditional whitewashed buildings and slick expanses of oak-strutted glass. Bedrooms are big and airy, with sleigh beds, huge roll-top baths and charming touches like fresh flowers and homemade biscuits. In-house chef Adam Fanson’s breakfasts are so delicious, they have a Breakfast Club throughout the summer months. NOTA BENE… Loyton’s location, originality and party vibe make it a go-to for weddings and shooting parties, but they also love to dream up out-of-the-box celebrations. Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1398 331051; loyton.com

MOLLAND HOUSE EXMOOR, DEVON

Newly renovated Molland House, on the edge of glorious Exmoor, is a Victorian farmhouse with a longstanding history as a shooting lodge that can now be rented as a summer retreat for large groups of family and friends. There are ten pretty en-suite bedrooms, a farmhouse kitchen plus service kitchen, large dining room, comfortable sitting room, and airy family games room with bar. In winter, the historic pheasant and partridge shoot, now managed by prestigious Loyton Sporting, serves excellent elevenses such as pheasant goujons from a converted Land Rover. The day’s sporting triumphs are celebrated with a flame-cooked, sitdown lunch by chef Jean Christophe (JC) Grande – perhaps roast venison, slow cooked lamb or ham pie, plus a reliably sumptuous pudding. Summer house guests have the use of the welcoming kitchen Aga, ideal for self-catering and dinner parties in the dining room before settling in at the bar. Child and dog friendly, it’s a place where the whole family can relax together. NOTA BENE... Molland House is part of the Throckmorton estate, a 6,000-acre moorland wilderness that’s been in the same family for 800 years and is perfect for walking and riding. From £2,500 per week (in summer) +44 (0)1398 333045; mollandhouse.com 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 213

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE OLD DAIRY BLOXHAM, OXFORDSHIRE

Tucked away down a quiet country lane in the lovely village of Bloxham in north Oxfordshire, you’ll find the exquisite Old Dairy, one of the properties in the Beachspoke portfolio. A beautifully appointed home that sleeps up to six adults and six children, it’s well suited to two families wanting to share a holiday together. Children are brilliantly catered for, with stacks of board games, DVDs, table football and Nerf guns, not to mention the outdoor pool, trampoline, swing and climbing frame. Adults can mellow out and relax with the papers on a sunlounger, while admiring the immaculate gardens filled with wisteria, lavender and roses. Stock up with fresh local produce from nearby Wykham Park farm shop (the home-made flapjacks are a must), and you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to fine pubs, both within walking distance (The Red Lion) and a short drive (The Chequers and The Kingham Plough). There are oodles of things to do too: a visit to Broughton Castle or what must be the UK’s poshest zoo, the Cotswold Wildlife Park. NOTA BENE... The house is indeed an old dairy. One of the windows in the dining room was formerly the sales counter. From £400 per night (three-night minimum stay) +44 (0)20 8740 3097; beachspoke.com

PLAS DINAM LLANDINAM, POWYS

An intriguing history – and a mini-museum of its own – gives Plas Dinam a certain stately grandeur if you’re looking to rent an imposing country mansion. Yet it retains a warm and friendly atmosphere thanks to owners Eldrydd and Tyson, who returned from Australia to take over the house from her parents, Lord and Lady Davies, in 2011. The couple are renowned for going the extra mile to make your stay a magical one, though the pizza oven, tennis court, stunning views, numerous sitting rooms and impressive billiard room leave little else to be desired. All 15 bedrooms are traditionally decorated and filled with little luxuries like fluffy towels, quality linen and REN skincare products. A much-loved private family home for many years, its 12 acres of woodland set in the picturesque Severn valley are an invitation for children to explore, while the mansion and Old Stables are perfect for large family get-togethers, parties, weddings and weekends away ‘just because’. NOTA BENE... Eldrydd’s great-grandfather, Lord Davies, founded the Temple of Peace and Health in Cardiff in 1938, now home to the Welsh Centre for International Affairs. From £4,800 per weekend +44(0)7415 503554; plasdinamcountryhouse.co.uk 214 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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PRIVATE HOUSES

RUTLAND RETREATS OAKHAM, RUTLAND

Nestled among nature within its own gated estate, sit these stunning, eco-built timber and cedar-clad, two and three-bedroom cottages. With private patios, log burners, sedum roofs and smart finishes throughout, the retreats offer the perfect self-catering staycation accommodation. Dine out at the adjacent Barnsdale Lodge Hotel, where fresh, locally sourced produce goes into the restaurant’s sumptuous dishes, lovingly cooked by Executive Chef, David Bukowick. The retreats are run with great passion by managing director Ed Burrows and, for their quality and location, they represent superb value for money. Nearby, the picturesque towns of Oakham, Uppingham and Stamford offer boutique shopping, for the most discerning visitors. Visit this country refuge for peace, quiet and comfort. NOTA BENE... Located so close to Rutland Water you are likely to see red kite, deer and partridge, making Rutland Retreats an exceptional base for sailing, fishing, riding, walking and exploring Rutland, England’s smallest county. From £375 for a three-night stay +44 (0)1572 724678; barnsdalelodge.co.uk

TWO BARE FEET WINCHESTER

The owner of this quirkily designed and utterly unique house, Hannah McIntyre, has a knack for finding properties that feel a little lost and turning them into modern hospitality spaces. Her other project, 16a Winchester, was once a former livery, then a dance hall. Two Bare Feet was an office before Hannah beautifully refurbished it with her eye for splashes of colour amid serene spaces, and respect for the building’s original charm. Now a state-of-the-art self-catered property, it makes a perfect base for exploring Winchester’s picturesque cathedral city. Hire the whole place and make use of the excellently equipped kitchen for a family weekend away, or book one of the three individually designed, fresh and contemporary duplex-style bedrooms, with snazzy en suites, as a bolthole for a work trip. While you’ll be left to your own devices, expect to find hotel-style luxury touches such as Egyptian cotton sheets and fluffy white towels. Eggs and bread are included, and there is a brilliant breakfast honesty tray for any extra morning nibbles. As comfortable as it is convenient. NOTA BENE... The high wooden roof is a clue to Two Bare Feet’s past life in 1900, as a Scout Hut. Doubles from £75 +44 (0)7730 510663; twobarefeetwinchester.co.uk 2019/20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 215

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

Index 11 Cadogan Gardens 16a Winchester

The Abbey Hotel Albion House Artist Residence, Brighton Artist Residence, Oxfordshire Artist Residence, Penzance Artist Residence, Pimlico Askham Hall The Athenaeum Augill Castle

Bailiffscourt Ballyfin Ballyvolane House The Balmoral Bank House The Bar Convent Barnsdale Lodge Barnsley House Barsham Barns Batty Langley’s The Beach at Bude The Bear Hotel The Beaumont Beaverbrook The Beckford Arms The Bell Inn Belmond Cadogan Hotel The Berkeley Bingham Riverhouse The Bird, Bath Blakeney Hotel The Bloomsbury Bodysgallen Hall Bovey Castle Bowood Hotel, Spa and Golf Resort The Bradley Brocco On The Park Brown’s Hotel Brownber Hall The Brudenell

Calcot & Spa The Capital Careys Manor Cary Arms & Spa Castle House Castle of Park The Cat Inn The Cavendish Hotel Cavens Chapel House Chewton Glen The Cider House Claridge’s Cley Windmill Cliff At Lyons Cliveden House COMO The Halkin Congham Hall The Connaught The Cookie Jar Corinthia London Cowley Manor Coworth Park Crab & Lobster Currarevagh House

106 210

60 90 90 91 44 106 164 107 164

76 204 204 192 150 165 140 128 210 107 44 182 108 91 60 128 108 109 109 61 150 110 182 45 61 129 165 110 166 151

129 111 76 45 183 211 92 140 192 46 77 46 111 151 205 92 112 152 112 166 113 130 93 93 206

The Dabbling Duck The Devonshire Arms The Devonshire Fell Dorset Square Hotel Driftwood Dunalastair Hotel Suites The Dunstane Houses Durrants Hotel

East End Arms The Eastbury Ellenborough Park The Elms Eshott Hall

Faldonside Farleigh Wallop The Felin Fach Griffin The Fife Arms Fingal Four Seasons Hotel Hampshire Fowey Hall The Fuzzy Duck

Gairnshiel Lodge The Gallivant George and Dragon Gidleigh Park Glazebrook House Gliffaes The Goring Grantley Hall Gravetye Manor The Great House Hotel & Restaurant Grove Of Narberth The Gunton Arms The Gurnard’s Head

The Halfway Bridge Hambleton Hall The Hambrough Hampton Manor Hare & Hounds Hart’s Hotel Hartwell House Hazlitt’s Headlam Hall Heckfield Place Hell Bay Hillside Homewood Hotel Endsleigh Hotel Tresanton Howard’s House Hurley House

The Ickworth Hotel The Inn At Whitewell

The Jack Russell Inn

The Kensington Killiecrankie Hotel Kimpton Charlotte Square

152 167 167 113 47 193 193 114

77 62 130 141 168

Kinloch Lodge Knightsbridge Hotel Knockinaam Lodge

Langar Hall The Levin Lime Tree Hotel Lime Wood Linthwaite House Little Barwick House The Little Gloster Loyton Lodge Lucknam Park The Lygon Arms Lympstone Manor

211 212 183 194 194 78 47 131

212 94 168 48 48 184 114 169 94 153 184 153 49

95 141 78 142 169 142 95 115 170 79 49 79 62 50 50 63 96

154 170

115 195 195

Maison Talbooth The Malabar Mallory Court Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London The Manor At Sway Manor House Lindley The Marylebone The Merrion The Methuen Arms Middlethorpe Hall Middleton Lodge Estate The Milk House Milsoms Kesgrave Hall Molland House The Montagu Arms Moonfleet Manor Moor Hall

The Nare The Ned New Park Manor No. 1 Pery Square No. 131 No. 38 The Park No.15 Great Pulteney The Norfolk Mead Hotel The Northgate North House Northcote Number 38 Clifton Number Sixteen

Ockenden Manor Oddfellows Oddfellows On The Park The Old Coastguard The Old Dairy One Aldwych

Park House, Hotel & Spa The Peacock at Rowsley Penally Abbey Perle Oban The Pheasant Hotel The Pheasant Inn The Pier THE PIG – At Brockenhurst THE PIG – At Bridge Place THE PIG – At Combe THE PIG – In The Wall THE PIG Near Bath THE PIG – On The Beach Plas Bodegroes Plas Dinam Polurrian On The Lizard

196 116 196

The Portobello Hotel Prestonfield

143 116 117 80 171 63 81 213 64 131 51

154 171 143 117 81 172 118 206 65 172 173 96 155 213 82 65 173

51 118 82 207 132 132 65 155 156 83 174 66 119

97 174 175 52 214 119

97 144 185 197 175 98 156 83 98 52 84 66 67 185 214 53

The Rectory Hotel Red Lion Freehouse The Riverside Inn, Aymestrey Rockliffe Hall The Rookery The Rose & Crown At Romaldkirk The Rose & Crown At Snettisham Roseate House London The Roseate Reading Roseate Villa Rosewood London The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa The Royal Oak Rutland Retreats

The Savoy The Scarlet SCHLOSS Roxburghe The Seafood Restaurant The Sloane Club The Soho Hotel Sopwell House The Spread Eagle St Moritz Star Castle Hotel Stoke Park Strand Palace Summer Lodge The Sun Inn The Swan At Lavenham Hotel & Spa The Swan At Southwold The Swan Hotel The Swan At Ascott-Under-Wychwood

The Talbot Inn The Talbot Hotel Thornbury Castle The Torridon Trewornan Manor Trigony House The Trout At Tadpole Bridge Two Bare Feet Tyddyn Llan

University Arms

The Victoria

The Waterside Inn The Wellington Arms The Westbury Whatley Manor The Wheatsheaf Inn The Witchery By The Castle Woolley Grange

Ye Olde Bell Hotel & Spa Yorebridge House

120 197

67 68 186 176 120 176 157 121 99 68 121 69 99 215

122 53 198 54 122 123 100 100 55 54 101 123 69 157 158 158 70 133

70 177 133 198 55 199 134 215 186

159

101 84 207 134 135 199 135

144 177

216 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2019/20

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The Langham, London Where Style and Service Meet

When The Langham, London first opened in 1865 it set a new standard in luxury in the capital. That legacy endures.

In the heart of the West End, we offer a world of culinary experiences, from the informality of The Wigmore, our pub luxe, to the elegance of Roux at The Landau, one of the capitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most beautiful dining spaces. Add to that the most luxurious rooms and most sincere service â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the perfect mix.

1c Portland Place, Regent Street, London, W1B 1JA T 44 (0) 20 7636 1000 F 44 (0) 20 7323 2340 langhamhotels.com

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