THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS
JANUARY 2020 £3.90
FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD! Chefs share their foodie memories
DAME MOTIVATOR Jessica Ennis-Hill puts us on the fitness path
GALA GORDON A creative force to be reckoned with
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YOU’RE BEAUTIFUL Be the best you can be in 2020
GUT INSTINCT
Dr Tim Spector’s diet revolution
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Historically, Asprey has been known for jewellery collections featuring naturalistic forms. The coveted Woodland Collection is a contemporary reflection of this, inspired by the natural beauty of British Woodland flora. The Oak Leaf in particular is a recurring motif, meticulously highlighted with diamonds in 18ct white and yellow gold.
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THE WOODLAND COLLECTION asprey.com ..
london st.moritz zurich new york beverly hills miami tokyo osaka
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CONTENTS JA NUA RY 2020
COLUMNS 22 24
THE GOOD LIFE Bastien Gonzalez puts Alice B-B on the right foot THE RURBANIST Jo Malone CBE
UP FRONT 27 28 30 32 33 34 36
ALL SYSTEMS GO Infinity coat THE EDIT Style update GYM BUNNY Ultimate athleisure THE MAGPIE Resetting old gems MY STYLE Lucy Litwack LUCIA LOVES DNA-tailored treatments BODY LANGUAGE Dr Paul Nassif gives Olivia Falcon the low-down on fillers 38 BRIGHT YOUNG THING Inside Amber Le Bon’s make-up bag 40 BODY & SOUL Mid-winter boost 42 THE KNIGHTSBRIDGE FACELIFT Harrods vs Urban Retreat 44 WELL GROOMED Men’s style news
THE GUIDE 47 50 51 52 53 54 56 58
THE GUIDE Mushroom magic THE EXHIBITIONIST Ed Vaizey recommends pottery to stave off pain ARTIST’S STUDIO Chris Levine GOOD READS Historic novels WHAT’S ON Reformer pilates SEEDER’S DIGEST Sweet pea season ROAD TEST Mazda’s MX-5 turns 30 CONVERSATIONS AT SCARFES BAR Dr Tim Spector is rewiring the way we think about what’s on our plate, as told to Matthew Bell
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A GALA PERFORMANCE Gala Gordon talks to Lucy Cleland about making the leap from in front of the camera to behind the production scenes AN ODE TO FOOD When did food become so complicated? Three chefs rekindle the unadulterated joy of eating COUNTRY BELLE Sarah Stacey unravels the secret code of rural make-up GOING FOR GOLD Training like an Olympian is easier than you think. Sofia Tindall asks Jessica Ennis-Hill for tips
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CONTENTS JA NUA RY 2020
INSIDER 81 82 84 86
TROPIC TALENT A curious pendant DESIGN NOTES Kitchen essentials BOUDOIR BLISS Dressing rooms fit for your inner starlet A ROOM OF ONE’S OWN Inside Justin Van Breda’s Kensington townhouse
FOOD & TRAVEL 89
100 104 108 109 110 111
TO THE END OF THE EARTH Antarctic adventure awaits; at least once Laura Ivill has survived the sea crossing BIRDS OF A FEATHER Lynn Barber flies to the Canaries for some winter sun COME ON IN, THE WATER’S LOVELY Spas with healing waters GASTRO GOSSIP Waste not want not FRIDAY FISH NIGHT The humble Kiev gets an Aussie makeover FORK & FIELD Anastasia Bernhardt eats a bellyfull in Borough Market HAPPY HOUR The best drinks for Burns Night. By Alice Lascelles
ON THE MOVE 113 PROPERTY OF THE MONTH 114 LET’S MOVE TO Kensington 116 FIVE OF THE BEST Home spas
REGULARS 14 16 45 112 136
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EDITOR’S LETTER CONTRIBUTORS HIGH SOCIETY STOCKISTS TALES OF OUR TIME
ON THE COVER Gala Gordon wears dress by Zimmermann, Rose des vents earrings by Dior Joaillerie. Small earring at top of ear, Gala’s own. Photographer: Carla Guler. Fashion Director: Nicole Smallwood. Fashion assistant: Dina Nagapetyants. Hair: Davide Barbieri at Caren using Balmain Paris Hair Couture. Make-up: Gina Kane at Caren using Shiseido. Manicurist: Emma Welsh at Frank Agency using CND
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EDITOR’S PICKS
EDITOR’S LETTER
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n brooding mood as we head into a new year, I look back and realise that in 2019 I have been rather self-focussed. I don’t mean I’ve begun posting pouty selfies in a bid to boost my social media currency (I have none), I mean I’ve obsessed over my eco, political and societal anxiety, my physical health, mental wellbeing, sleep and happiness. It’s time to put those 365 days away and begin 2020 with a mantra of ‘doing’ rather than just ‘talking’. In October I attended a Creating the Future Conference (CFC), which brought speakers such as Extinction Rebellion’s Gail Bradbrook and journalist Carole Cadwalladr (who broke the Cambridge Analytica scandal), which sparked this need for action within me. We’re going to be featuring more people like this, starting with Tim Spector, a CFC speaker and professor of genetics whose new book Spoon-Fed (out later in 2020) will blow away every preconception you had about food
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WEAR With all this sense of purpose, I’d still love a Borgo de Nor dress
USE
(p58). I will be making it my mission to find DuckDuckGo, a search engine people who are putting purpose in front that protects of profit and telling their stories. In the my privacy and process, I hope that my anxiety subsides. doesn’t personalise my search results As Yale professor Dr Laurie Santos says, happiness is achievable but it’s not where you might think it is. This, our beauty and wellbeing issue, sees interviews with our cover star, the multi-talented Gala Gordon (p60), as well as Jo Malone CBE (p24), Jessica Ennis-Hill (p78) and Amber Le Bon (p38), plus Sarah Stacey tells you how to switch up your beauty regime if you live in the READ country (p76). Anastasia Stop Reading the Bernhardt talks to three News by Rolf chefs about their joyous Dobelli – my first book of 2020 relationship with food (with no mention of the word ‘diet’, p72) and Ed Vaizey recommends taking up a new hobby to stave off sadness (p50). I’d also like to introduce our new back page column LISTEN TO by entrepreneur Michael The Happiness Hayman. Entitled Tales Lab, Dr Laurie of our Time, each month Santos’ Yale course converted to he will give us some food for thought (p136). inspirational podcast Whatever your plans for 2020, make them with purpose and let’s see if we can’t all become @countryandtown just a little bit happier. n /countryandtownhousemagazine
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CONTRIBUTORS
MICHAEL HAYMAN
New Year’s resolution... To make the most of my 50th year. The secret to wellbeing is… To walk everywhere, take the steps that you can. Favourite grooming product you can’t live without... Horace – everyone should know about this Parisian cosmetics brand – it’s a one-stop shop for all things in male grooming. If you could look like anyone else in the world who would it be? Me on my best day.
MARIELLA TANDY
New Year’s resolution... To become better at yoga and expand my cooking repertoire. The secret to wellbeing is… Regular sessions with acupuncturist Ross Barr, long walks with my dogs and children, and pilates at Heartcore. Favourite beauty product you can’t live without? The list is long but if I had to choose just two: Tata Harper’s roll on retinoic oil and Seed to Skin’s ‘The Cure’. If you could look like anyone else in the world who would it be? My mother – she still stops traffic in her ’60s.
EVA RAMIREZ
New Year’s resolution... To live more sustainably – I’m hoping that’s on everyone’s list. The secret to wellbeing is… Switching off and spending time with loved ones. It always brings me back into balance. Favourite beauty product you can’t live without? Irene Forte’s rose face oil (before bed) and a good old body brush (upon waking). If you could look like anyone else in the world who would it be? Probably Penélope Cruz. She’s beautiful, but always looks happy as well.
SARAH STACEY
New Year’s resolution... Oooh, several: start painting again; mind less about being untidy, which leads to irritating tidiness jags; spend more time gazing and daydreaming; and always more time with my horses. The secret to wellbeing is… Harnessing a sense of humour. Favourite beauty product you can’t live without? Concealer! If you could look like anyone else in the world who would it be? Kristin Scott Thomas, because then I’d never have to fret about how I look in photographs.
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savoirbeds.com
London
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Paris
New York
Düsseldorf
Moscow
Berlin
Shanghai
Hong Kong
Seoul
Taipei
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The test of time That’s what thoughtful design means to us. Furniture that will always look good, that will wear well, that will endure. Visit us online or in person to discover just what we mean. neptune.com
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LUCY CLELAND EDITOR
EDITOR-AT-LARGE ALICE B-B ASSOCIATE EDITOR CHARLOTTE METCALF MANAGING EDITOR ANASTASIA BERNHARDT SUB EDITOR BELINDA BAMBER FEATURES ASSISTANT & SUB EDITOR SOFIA TINDALL FASHION DIRECTOR NICOLE SMALLWOOD BEAUTY DIRECTOR NATHALIE ELENI FASHION EDITOR LUCY BOND LUXURY EDITOR LUCIA VAN DER POST INTERIORS EDITOR CAROLE ANNETT EXECUTIVE RETAIL EDITOR MARIELLA TANDY PROPERTY EDITOR ANNA TYZACK MOTORING EDITOR JEREMY TAYLOR ONLINE EDITOR REBECCA COX ONLINE WRITER ELLIE SMITH ONLINE ASSISTANT DANIELLA SAUNDERS CREATIVE & PRODUCTION DIRECTOR PARM BHAMRA JUNIOR PRODUCTION DESIGNER SAMUEL THOMAS LUXURY LIFESTYLE ADVERTISING MANAGER ELLIE RIX ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ELEANOR SELBY ACCOUNT MANAGERS SHANNA WHALEY AND BIANCA MARANEY DIGITAL MANAGER ADAM DEAN TECHNICAL MANAGER HANNAH JOHNSON TECHNICAL DIRECTOR MARK PEARSON DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL STRATEGY WIL HARRIS FINANCE CONTROLLER LAUREN HARTLEY SALES & OFFICE MANAGER DAISY ORR-EWING FINANCE DIRECTOR JILL NEWEY PROPERTY & MARKETING ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR GEMMA COWLEY GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR TIA GRAHAM MANAGING DIRECTOR JEREMY ISAAC CONTRIBUTING EDITORS STEPHEN BAYLEY, SIMON DE BURTON, FIONA DUNCAN, OLIVIA FALCON, DAISY FINER, LYDIA GARD, AVRIL GROOM, RICHARD HOPTON, EMMA LOVE, MARY LUSSIANA, ANNA PASTERNAK, CAROLINE PHILLIPS, HOLLY RUBENSTEIN, MARCUS SCRIVEN, THE EDITOR EDITORIAL@COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK FASHION FASHION@COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK ADVERTISING ADVERTISING@COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK PROPERTY ADVERTISING PROPERTY@COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK ACCOUNTS ACCOUNTS@COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK SUBSCRIPTIONS SUBSCRIBE@COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK
COUNTRY & TOWN HOUSE is a monthly magazine distributed to AB homes in Barnes, Battersea, Bayswater, Belgravia, Brook Green, Chelsea, Chiswick, Clapham, Coombe, Fulham, Holland Park, Kensington, Knightsbridge, Marylebone, Mayfair, Notting Hill, Pimlico, South Kensington, Wandsworth and Wimbledon, as well as being available from leading country and London estate agents. It is also on sale at selected WHSmith, Waitrose, Marks & Spencer and Sainsbury’s stores and independent newsagents nationwide. It has an estimated readership of 150,000. It is available on subscription in the UK for £29.99 per annum. To subscribe online, iPad, iPhone and android all for only £24.99 visit: exacteditions.com/read/ countrytownhouse. For subscription enquiries, please call 020 7384 9011 or email subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk. It is published by Country & Town House Ltd, Studio 2, Chelsea Gate Studios, 115 Harwood Road, London SW6 4QL (tel: 020 7384 9011). Registered number 576850 England and Wales. Printed in the UK by William Gibbons and Sons Ltd, West Midlands. Paper supplied by Gerald Judd. Distribution by Letterbox. Copyright © 2020 Country & Town House Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Materials are accepted on the understanding that no liability is incurred for safe custody. The publisher cannot be responsible for unsolicited material. All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. Whilst every care is taken to ensure information is correct at time of going to press, it is subject to change, and C&TH Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors.
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COLUMN
with the flourish of a French former-champion skier. He points out that while I have healthy feet, ‘I’m not going to send them flowers!’. My nails are suffering; I’m a fan of the slag’s pedicure – Shellac. On it goes and there it stays, sometimes for months until the gels peel away, leaving nails in a sorry state of dehydration. But an hour of trimming, filing and delicious massage in the (impeccably manicured) hands of Bastien, until my nails are so intensely buffed I can almost use my toes as a mirror. ‘Think of me everyday when you massage the fatty pads underneath,’ is his parting shot. ‘If you do that, you will have baby feet for life.’ A PRESENT EMBARGO is how we do it in my family. Powder room politics and BUT… the gifts buff feet. By Alice B-B I wish I’d received: 1. I can’t resist a red dress in winter and there’s a puffES TO FLUIDITY… clothes, sleeved number by Shrimps that’s gender, equal pay. Just please utterly enchanting. However, never not toilets. I’ve spent the last wear red to a wedding, it means you’ve week at a wellness conference where slept with the groom. I learned the gender-neutral was the name of the hard way. 2. I don’t like my legs; they game for the public facilities. Instead feel disconnected from my body. But of quiet moments away from the crowds, my loo trips became a platform I keep trying to love them in the hope that one day they’ll surprise me. My for inner rants: ‘Why do men pee on the floor?’ ‘Why can’t men put the seat latest love-bomb is smearing them in Augustinus Bader’s body cream. (Hot down?’ ‘Man, I miss girl chat while news: stem cell and burns specialist washing my hands.’ I’m so grateful Professor Bader has collaborated with for this new kinder fluid era, but not Victoria Beckham to create a special when it comes to public lavatories. primer.) So while they’re still the same Please can we have the option? old legs, the skin feels springier TWENTY YEARS since I first and my scars are vanishing. 3. My heard about foot guru Bastien favourite jewellery brand, Loquet Gonzalez. Two decades later I London, has collaborated with finally get an appointment with the designer Chantal Conrad to create world’s most famous podiatrist for the Lumiere collection; hold the gold an hour of his unwavering attention pendants up to your eye and a secret on my trotters. For this is not your message appears. Using a technique common or garden superficial nail developed by spies, it’s exactly what painting affair. ‘Non! What I do,’ he a very special present should be. says pointing at the bronze plaque – mysterious and magical. A love outside his salon within the Mandarin Oriental hotel, ‘is a pedi – CURE,’ said letter… for your eyes only. n
LU XU RY & N ECESSIT Y LADY IN RED Puff-sleeved dress. shrimps.com
THE GOOD LIFE
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Channelling energy with intuitive healer Sinéad de Hóra at Café Royal. sineaddehora. com
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Trying out the new Laura Mercier tinted moisturiser formula at the revamped Harrods Beauty. lauramercier.com
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Reading Shakespeare for Every Day of the Year edited by Allie Esiri. panmacmillan. com
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IN THE BUFF Pedi-Cure by Bastien Gonzalez. mandarinoriental.com
BEST BODY Stem-cell awakening. augustinusbader.com HAVE A PEEP Jewel of dreams. loquetlondon.com
IT’S A GROWER Plant based by patchplants.com
PORTRAIT BY JANE MCLEISH-KELSEY
THIS MONTH I’LL BE
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Life at your own pace.
Exceptional villas, local knowledge, personal service thethinkingtraveller.com +44 (0)20 7377 8518 S I C I LY •
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INTERVIEW
The doyenne of British perfume, Jo Malone CBE, received some invaluable advice from Oprah Where’s home to you? London,
I love its vibrancy and creativity. Where do you go to lose yourself?
I go to Grasse to create fragrances, where I’m lucky enough to work with some of the greatest ingredients in the world. It’s where I create my Jo Loves collection. Daily ritual? Walking my dog around the Serpentine early in the morning followed by coffee and a freshly squeezed juice at home. Favourite secret place in London for a good night out? Electric FROM ABOVE: Jo Malone CBE; Shanghai presents creative opportunities; cosy nights out at the Electric Cinema in Notting Hill; a lifechanging read; Jo Loves Rose Petal perfume, £115. joloves.com
Cinema, with a great movie and a glass of wine – it’s bliss. Best thing a cabbie has ever said to you? ‘You
smell amazing, what are you wearing?’ What never fails to bring a smile to your face? Dogs and
animals in general, I just love them. What item in your wardrobe do you wear the most?
The leather jacket that I bought from Louise Kennedy many years ago with a shot purple silk lining. What is the last book you read and what did you think of it?
An Elephant in My
What has been the most valuable piece of advice you have ever received? Oprah
Winfrey once told me, ‘Stamp your identity on everything you do,’ and it’s stayed with me. What brings out the worst in you and why? Disloyalty, unkindness,
and people who go out of their way to make others feel unhappy. Something rises within me to try and put it right, I hate injustice. What was the last song you listened to that made you dance? Queen’s Don’t Stop Me
Now, on the flight back from an amazing trip to Shanghai. What’s your favourite game to play and why? I love the strategy
of backgammon. My father taught me to play it and I still have the same set that he gave me when I was ten years old. I never play for money, just the sheer thrill of winning! What are Saturday afternoons made for? A film, family, log
fire and a glass of rosé. What would really improve your life? To see my Elephant
family at the Thula Thula reserve in South Africa grow from a herd of 29 to 100. That project is really close to my heart. What’s your signature dish and who in the world would you most like to cook it for? Lemon roast
chicken, crispy roast potatoes and bread sauce; for Steve Jobs, Coco Chanel, Freddie Mercury, Francoise and Lawrence from Thula Thula, and of course, my beloved Gary and Josh. What a conversation that would be! Where was the last place you ‘discovered’?
Shanghai is an amazing place full of opportunity, imagination and creativity. I recently stayed in the PuLi Hotel and Spa, which was divine. n
PHOTOS: © SOHO HOUSE; GETTY IMAGES
THE RURBANIST
Kitchen by Françoise MalbyAnthony, it really did change my life in more ways than one.
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CHRISTMAS
C L A S S IC • CON TEMP ORARY • ELE GAN T 9 WALTO N S T R E E T, L O N D O N S W 3 2 J D
TEL: 020 7225 1011
C H E L S E A H AR B OU R , G RO U N D F L O O R , D E S I G N C E N T R E E A S T S W 1 0 0 X F
T E L : 0 2 0 7 3 52 9518
I N F O @ N I N AC A M P BE L L . C O M
W W W. N I NAC A M P BE LL. CO M
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EDIT ED BY M A R I E L L A TA N DY
STYLE BEAUTY JEWELLERY PA RT I E S
UP FRONT ALL SYSTEMS GO Mix, match and layer Roksanda Ilinčić’s range for Lululemon, which is both fashion-forward and high-tech. It’s not just for the gym floor, but will take you through from dawn to dusk. These are clothes to live and move in: sweat-ready fabrics, madeto-move fit, packable features, reflective accents and all-weather functionality. The standout piece has to be the Inner Expanse Infinity coat, worn either as a coat, puffer jacket, or light trench. £898. lululemon.com
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UP FRONT
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Joseph’s new creative director Susana Clayton (ex Givenchy) has ushered in a new era at Joseph. Hello long-line silhouettes, bright colours and elegant lightweight knits, like this polo (£275), skirt (£395) and trousers (£345) in matching cotton viscose knit. joseph-fashion.com
How to refresh your wardrobe. By Mariella Tandy
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PHOTO FINISH
Peter Lindbergh photographed many of Dior’s campaigns and muses. This book was his final project with the house and narrates 70 years of Dior history. £150. dior.com
SENSITIVE SOUL
One of the forerunners in the sustainable beauty movement, Kjaer Weis produces cruelty, nasty free, makeup that’s refillable. Its new volumising mascara is a must for anyone who suffers from sensitive eyes. £29. kjaerweis.com
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BAG FOR LIFE
Tanner Krolle’s meticulous design process always uses the finest materials and craftsmanship, meaning any bag will be a bag for life. This Soft Trunk crossbody bag gets better with age and is sure to become a cherished heirloom to be passed down. £1,650. tannerkrolle.com
LINNAEAN One of a raft of new openings in Battersea Nine Elms, Linnaean is a conceptual retreat for the modern urbanite. It offers an all-day restaurant, hair salon, treatment rooms, manicure/pedicure stations and a retail area stocking curated hard-to-find beauty and wellness brands. linnaean.co.uk
ANATOME Anatome apothecary just off Piccadilly has a finely-tuned range of therapeutic oils, dietary supplements and botanical skincare. All products have been made with active natural botanical ingredients sourced from around the world, to support and nourish mind and body. anatome.co
REMODELAGE Parisians have sworn by Martine de Richeville’s remodelling massage technique to reshape the silhouette and face and help free the body of toxins. It works on deeper skin layers as well as older fat deposits and is now available at its new premises on Elvaston Place. martinedericheville.com
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CHANGE THE WORLD
CHARMED
Motley works with the world’s leading fine jewellery designers to create unique collections at an affordable price point. There is a huge range of unique yet wearable designs on the site including the latest range with Estelle Dévé. Estelle Dévé x Motley Curator necklace, £330. motley-london.com
GIRL POWER This blouse was made by local women at Beulah’s social enterprise partner in Bangladesh. £365. beulahlondon.com
MADE TO LAST &Daughter is a familyrun label that works with Scottish and Northern Irish artisans to hand-make designs in natural yarns meant to last a lifetime. £295. net-a-porter.com
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HALF BOARD
Tucked away on the picturesque Altaussee in Austria, Vivamayr has just opened its doors to guests who do not wish to do the famed cure. These guests can now relax in the park hotel apartments that come complete with their own kitchens. vivamayr.com
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SLOW FASHION
PHOTOS: THEOTZIA.CO.UK
FIRST AID BAGS For every bag you purchase, DeMellier funds lifesaving vaccines and treatments in collaboration with SOS Children’s Villages. Nano Montreal bag, £325. demellierlondon.com
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Bamford’s clothes are the antithesis of fast fashion. It uses detox-certified dyes to reduce waterway contamination, natural fibres that are fully biodegradable and could be returned to the soil without harming it. bamford.com
Maintain healthy skin from the inside out with Skinade, a liquid supplement packed with Vitamin C, Vitamin-B complex, Omegas 3 and 6, and collagen peptides. Proven to stimulate the cells that produce hyaluronic acid. £115.50 for 30 days. skinade.com
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DAILY DOSE
If you add just one thing to your daily routine, make it Dr Sebagh’s Supreme Maintenance Youth Serum. With 95 per cent active ingredients it will give your skin added oomph it needs. We hear that Anna Friel’s a fan. £125. drsebagh.com
STELLA LINE-UP
Stand in line for the new Stella Stan Smith 2.0. Like the first iteration they are leather-free and made using completely vegan materials. £235. stellamccartney.com January 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 29
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UP FRONT
WONE Stretch jersey top, £185; leggings, £290
PERFECT MOMENT Swimsuit, £95
COLOR WOW Chrome shampoo, £17.50
BAMFORD Amethyst crystal water bottle, £45
KILOMETRE PARIS Towel, £120 OLIVIA VON HALLE Missy Bordeaux silkcashmere tracksuit, £995
S T Y L E
GYM BUNNY
ERNEST LEOTY Ilona bodysuit, £250
All the gear and some idea. By Mariella Tandy Sticking to your New Year’s resolution of getting fit is so much easier when you have beautiful new gym kit to use. And if you can’t keep to that resolution, these nifty outfits are quick to throw on for a dash to the school gates.
THE BEAUTY CHEF Hydration boost, £29
LUCAS HUGH Leggings £155; top, £85
AWAY The Everywhere bag, £275
ATHLETIC PROPULSION LABS TechLoom Breeze trainers, £160
VAARA Lily leotard, £95
SHEEP INC Merino wool pullover, £160 THE LAUNDRESS Sport detergent, £22
SEE STOCKISTS FOR MORE DETAILS
THE UPSIDE Sports bra, £80
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T H E H O M E O F C O U N T R Y C L O T H IN G
Light up the dark nights of winter with this beautifully textured golden bouclé weave from Lochcarron of Scotland. A shimmering bouclé cloth in pure new wool and mohair brings intricate texture and radiant colour to this smart contemporary British design.
C R E W
N E C K C O A T
T S 8 0 8 2 2 | £2 2 5
A R A N K N IT P O M T E 9 8 7 4 4 | £3 L A M B S W O O L R O T T 1 5 5 2 0 | £5 S T R A IG H T L E G N Y T P 3 1 4 2 1 | £1 3
P O M H A T 4 .9 5 L L N E C K 9 .9 5 D J JE A N S 9 .9 5
E x p e rie n c e th e v e ry b e s t in c o n te m p o ra ry c o u n try c lo th in g . V is it o u r w e b s ite to d a y :
w w w .h o u s e o f b r u a r.c o m
T o re q u e s t o u r la te s t m a il o rd e r c a ta lo g u e p le a s e rin g 0 1 7 9 6 4 8 3 2 3 6 T h e H o u s e o f B ru a r b y B la ir A th o ll, P e rth s h ire , P H 1 8 5 T W
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UP FRONT J E W E L L E R Y
THE MAGPIE
FIVE OF THE BEST...
ETHICAL PIECES
You can teach an old gem new tricks, says Mariella Tandy FROM ABOVE: This vintage diamond hair clip was too precious for every day use. Robinson Pelham made three smaller clips from it; this large stone was reset by Robinson Pelham and colour was added to make it more subtle; Georgina Boyce added a simple gold jacket to the vintage ring (bottom of the page) to make it easier to wear for everyday
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ong gone are the days when you had to stash an unwanted jewellery gift at the back of a cupboard or lock it in a safe to pass it down to the next generation. Recently jewellers have seen a huge rise in the number of clients asking for those long-forgotten pieces to be revamped. London-based jeweller Emma Clarkson Webb specialises in bespoke pieces and, when she started her business in 2014, used to do a lot of sourcing of stones. Now she is more used to clients bringing in their pieces to be remodelled. There is a growing awareness around the need to reuse existing stones and of course there really is no more sustainable way to create jewellery than through recycling old jewellery. Some clients have had wonderful surprises. Georgina Boyce has a legion of fans who flock to her London studio for her clean contemporary take on fine jewellery. She recalled a client who came in with a pendant, ‘She loved the stone but thought it was costume jewellery but, under closer inspection, the stone turned out to be internally flawless and was made into an engagement ring.’ While not everyone is as fortuitous, there are many options of how to reset any piece regardless of the quality of the original item. People are
increasingly adventurous with their designs as they are safe in the knowledge that if they want a change in a couple of years it’s not only possible but also an easy process. The team behind jewellers Robinson Pelham in Chelsea spent the first ten years of their 20-year-old business solely designing bespoke pieces. Zoe Benyon, one of the founders, knows that clients already have an attachment to the pieces that they bring in. ‘The joy of jewellery is the sentiment. If you start with old ingredients then the sentiment is already there, which means you are guaranteed to make a piece that means something.’ Whereas some prefer to make a stone sing by adding other stones, a removable party jacket or altering the setting, there is also a need to sometimes downplay a particular piece of jewellery. Zoe lists these easy tricks which can help deformalise a piece of jewellery so that it can be worn easily for everyday tasks, such as going to the gym or supermarket. ‘Turning a stone from north/ south to east/west updates a ring immediately. Removing diamond from the equation and using colour on colour can both enhance the look of a piece and make it less tempting to those looking for trouble.’
1 Cleopatra’s Bling Lapis and gold-plated necklace, £144. cleopatrasbling.com 2 Lark & Berry Diamond stud earrings, £750. larkandberry.com 3 Pippa Small Turquoise Mountain 22kt yellow gold and spinel Garma hoop earrings £2,800. pippasmall.com 4 Chopard Gold bracelet with Net Sustain Happy Diamonds, £1,960. net-a-porter.com 5 Wwake Four Step, sapphire and diamond 14ct ring, £585. net-a-porter.com
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Q & A
MY STYLE
Anticipation is everything for Lucy Litwack, CEO of Coco de Mer What event will you be dressing up for this month?
The annual Christmas event at Coco de Mer is my excuse to dress up, this year I’ll wear a Roland Mouret or Dolce & Gabbana dress. What do you find stressful about event dressing? Nothing, dressing up makes
you feel confident and excited for the evening ahead. It’s all about anticipation. Wardrobe fail-safes? A statement dress from Roksanda or Simone Rocha. Zara is another fail-safe. Everyday uniform? A dress is glamorous and effortlessly transitions from meetings to dinner.
SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
Whose style do you really admire?
My mother always looks classic yet effortlessly glamorous, and taught me that it’s better to be looked over than overlooked. Power dressing? Coco de Mer sheer lace bra and matching Brazilian knickers, under an Oscar de la Renta dress. Summer holiday essentials? Gold aviators from Ray-Ban, a black bikini from Melissa Odabash,
a silk eye mask and a good book. I’ve just finished Nimco Ali’s What We’re Told Not to Talk About (But We’re Going to Anyway). Lounge lizard? My vintage silk kimono and Hanro silk leggings. For my Sunday walk in the park with my dog, I love activewear brand Olympia Etal, which has a dreamy selection of leisurewear. Finishing touches? Less is more with jewellery, I opt for a man-sized Cartier Ballon Bleu watch. I’ve never worn perfume. Country walk? Whenever I am walking my little Maltese, I layer up with my Isabel Marant wool coat. Under the radar labels? Bloch for the most comfortable ballet pumps. For dresses and feminine tailoring, Bande Noir. Style cheats? Good hosiery and lingerie. Wearing something special under your clothes makes you feel powerful and ready to conquer the world. coco-de-mer.com n
1 Simone Rocha Crepe de Chine midi dress, £1,595 2 Slip Silk eye mask, £50 3 Cartier Ballon Bleu watch, £9,100 4 Bloch Ballet flats, £79 5 Coco de Mer Athene set, from £120 6 Zara dress, £49.99 7 Hanro leggings, £185 8 Ray-Ban aviators, £136
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UP FRONT
LIFE’S LIT TLE LU XURIES
L U X U R Y
LUCIA LOVES Lucia van der Post learns to age well
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t was once received wisdom that those in search of serious aesthetic enhancement needed to travel to Germany, France, Austria or Switzerland. These days, almost all of their specialised treatments have come to the UK, many specifically to BelleCell, a clinic concentrating on helping its clients to age well. It’s brilliantly placed – just behind The Ritz – and there it provides a whole range of advice and treatments. It has a raft of fully medically-qualified consultants who use the most up-to-date scientific research to help with all the usual problems that the 21st-century man (and woman) are prone to – weight, wrinkles, gut disorders, skin problems, sleep deprivation, fatigue. But what is perhaps of most interest to those of us wanting not to purport to be younger than we are, but to look as good as we can for our age, is that the clinic has a range of specialised, bespoke treatment geared to the specific DNA of each client. In the belief that there isn’t
FROM ABOVE: BelleCell’s results-driven, science-based approach to health and beauty helps clients to look – and feel – the best that they can
a single solution to suit everybody, it has cuttingedge metabolic and molecular tests which are used as the basis for devising specific programmes for each patient and each ailment. In relation to beauty, the focus is on enabling the body to effectively produce the cells for good skin, using the latest advances in epigenetics to enable clinicians to use stem cell technology to switch on the good switches for cell regeneration, and switch off the bad ones. Bioscientist Kasia Zajkowska founded BelleCell to focus on regenerative therapies, stem cell research, nutrition and wellness. She specialises in using Hyperbaric Oxygen Therapy, which has a proven track record in treating chronic non-healing wounds, such as ulcers or radiotherapy damaged tissue or bone in cancer patients. A 45 to 90-minute session in the chamber greatly increases stem cell production. It is probably its recognition of the intimate connection between health and beauty bringing many known medical advances to its clinic that makes most of its treatments so valuable. To give some idea of costs – a complete body composition analysis is £110, while a session in the Hyperbaric Oxygen chamber is £160. bellecell.com n
LONE WOLF Wolf & Badger finds under-the-radar designers who haven’t yet hit the main stream. There’s lots of interesting jewellery – in particular some lapis lazuli earrings by Magpie Rose for £80, black and gold earrings by Odell Design Studio for £215 (picture above) star-embellished rings by Harry Rocks for £65 (pictured above). wolfandbadger.com
GLIDE SILENTLY A perfect suitcase is mighty hard to find. Patricia Gucci, only daughter of the late Aldo Gucci, has had a serious go at it, launching a range of carry-on luggage through her new lifestyle brand, Aviteur. The wheels are silent to meet the Mayor of Venice’s complaint that the sounds of pullalongs on Venice’s cobbled streets was seriously disrupting the lives of Venetians. £3,640. aviteur.com
HIT THERAPY In winter we need a little extra help to kick our bodies into gear. The ancient Chinese method of Pai Sha uses bamboo tappers to improve blood circulation and promote metabolism. Hayo’u’s modern take on the tool is made from renewable and ethically sourced material. And at £28 it’s cheaper than a jade gua sha. hayoumethod.com
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C E L E B R AT I N G 27 5 Y E A R S
2020 COLLECTION NOW AVAILABLE
1 0 P I C C A D I L LY A R C A D E , L O N D O N S W1 Y 6 N H T: 0 2 0 74 9 9 76 4 4
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UP FRONT
MIND & M ATT ER
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SOOTHE Transform knarly feet with colloidal gold. Margaret Dabbs Pure Gold Elixir, £85. margaret dabbs.co.uk
R E V I E W
BODY LANGUAGE Olivia Falcon fills you in on fillers
(Nursing & Midwifery Council). Hairdressers, facialist’s couches and random hotel suites are not the sorts of places you should be looking for injectable treatments. Nassif has recently launched a new Nassif MD Medspa in Manchester under the exceptionally talented tutelage of Dr Harris, a London-based cosmetic doctor who is renowned for his facial reshaping with fillers (chin, cheeks and corners of the mouth look subtly prettier), just check out his Instagram and you’ll see what I mean. ‘Also please stay away from bargain deals – clinics that promote “cheap” injectables are often using off label, unregulated – even dangerously diluted – versions of fillers and toxins. Trying to save money this way is often a false economy if you are gambling with your safety.’ Lastly he cautions, ‘Be realistic with what you want to achieve.’ Selfie dysmorphia, the phenomenon of people – most notably Instagram addicted millennials – requesting procedures to resemble their filtered digital images is becoming a problem because, in real life, large amounts of filler injected to mimic exaggerated features can look awfully weird. So please take the expert’s advice: when the doctor says no, it means no. nassifmedspa.co.uk n
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WHIZZ The new year wonder berry into your smoothie to support and energize brain and body. Haskapa Berry Powder, £19.99. haskapa.com
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CLEANSE Purge and brighten postChristmas skin with Alpha / Beta Hydroxy acid pads. £35. nassifmd skincare.com
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
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here’s nothing like a new year to put people into panic mode – gyms are joined, intermittent fasting becomes a starvation diet and the drinks cabinet is cleared of temptation quicker than a Chicago speakeasy in the prohibition era. Yup, January is a time for knee-jerk reactions. Some people – I’ll hold my hand up here – also seek solace at the cosmetic clinic to freshen things up; a bit of Botox to blur crinkly crow’s feet caused by the Christmas perma-grin or maybe a jab of Aqualyx, a bile acid injection to melt away that paunchy fat under the double chin after the month of indulgence? So when a few weeks ago I met superstar cosmetic surgeon, Dr Paul Nassif, ‘the better looking half’ (his words not mine) of the hit TV show Botched – a reality show that fixes the overcooked faces and over augmented bodies of America’s most desperate, my first question was, ‘When signing up for cosmetic self improvements how do you get it right?’ ‘Rule number one,’ Nassif schools, ‘is to make sure you book in with a registered professional and check their qualifications.’ Doctors should be registered with the GMC (General Medical Council), dentists with GDC (General Dental Council) and nurses with the NMC
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PROMOTION
LIQUID ASSETS Drink your way to glowing skin with Skinade
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orget elaborate routines – the very latest in skincare regimens is drinking them. Loved by celebrities and beauty insiders alike (Victoria Beckham is a fan), Skinade’s liquid collagen drinks are a must to battle the effects of the winter climate. Whether tackling dry patches, post-party puffiness, or if you’re simply looking for a dewy January refresh, read on to discover your targeted solution.
ALL-IN-ONE The original Skinade saviour product is a perfect side to your morning smoothie. Developed by scientists, the hero collagen drink has six powerful active ingredients, making it a cult favourite and non-negotiable addition to any beauty arsenal. Designed to promote optimal skin function, it has essential micronutrients to make your face glow, hydrate and boost skin regeneration.
CRYSTALCLEAR SKIN Has all that sugary mulled wine brought on January breakouts? Opt for Clear. Helping reduce inflammation, regulate oil production and detoxify dermal layers, it has a blend of micronutrients that also enhance gut health and target the root causes of spots from within.
DIMPLE DEFENCE
BRIGHT EYES A vitamin powerhouse, Derma Defense helps support increased moisture levels and protects against pigmentation for a more even skin tone. With an intense shot of Vitamin D3 and A it’s perfect if you’re combating the effects of too many late nights (or just looking for an enviable glow).
Cellulite is notoriously tricky to treat with topical methods (like creams). Skinade’s Cellulite is a clever little solution that helps tackle the multiple internal causes of cellulite – fluid retention, a build-up of toxins, poor circulation – detoxifying from the inside out with special activated enzyme superoxide dismutase. Pack some extra punch by adding it to fresh-air exercise and re-hydration. skinade.com
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UP FRONT
Q & A
BRIGHT YOUNG THING
Model and superstar DJ, Amber Le Bon shares her life behind the decks with Nathalie Eleni What do you love most about being a DJ? I love being in control
of the music and playing some of my favourite songs. Most memorable gig? I once got to open for Giorgio Moroder at a LuisaViaRoma event in Italy and it was truly insane, there was a proper stage and lightshow on an LED screen going on behind me. Favourite dancefloor fillers?
When I’m going more eclectic I always love playing one thing by Amerie, any songs by Chic, and some Bowie. Amber is represented By Models 1.
TEAM Make-up: @nathalieeleni_beauty Hair: @callyborghair Photographer: Michelle Beatty
GET THE LOOK How to recreate Amber’s berry red lip
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Prep skin with a gentle home peel such as Pietro Simone’s Act 7: Renewing Peel, with lactic mandelic acids that purify and refresh. £75. pietrosimone.com
Lips can become dry in the winter months so slather on Quantum Botanika The Lip Cure, for the most luxurious lip treat with all natural ingredients. £38. nataliyarobinson.co.uk Apply a golden, metallic eye shadow under eyes, such as Fairy Tail by Stila Cosmetics. £24. cultbeauty.co.uk Take lashes from average to outstanding, with Code FFL Forget Fake Lashes. A pre-mascara lash plumper. £18. code-beautiful.com
For a modern glossy lip, line lips with a red/cherry liner and blend into the centre-top with Clé de Peau Beauté Radiant Lip Gloss in shade seven. £38. harrods.com
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Charlotte Tilbury Luxury Palette in The Bella Sofia, £40. charlottetilbury.com Max Factor Masterpiece mascara, £10.99. boots.com
Votary Super Seed cleansing oil, £55. votary.co.uk
Bioderma Sensibio H2O Micellar Water, £10.80. boots.com
Giorgio Armani Fluid Master Primer, £40. armanibeauty.co.uk
Smashbox Be Legendary lipstick, £18. smashbox.co.uk
Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow primer, £22; clear brow gel, £23. cultbeauty.co.uk
BARE ESSENTIALS A look inside Amber’s make-up bag
Tom Ford Eye Defining pen, £46. tomford.co.uk Chantecaille Future Skin foundation, £68. chantecaille.com
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UP FRONT W E L L N E S S
BODY & SOUL
CHECK IN
Banish the winter blues, says Camilla Hewitt
DEPLAR FARM, ICELAND
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any of us feel lethargic and under the weather during the winter months, with most of January and February spent fighting off colds and flu. But from modifying your exercise routine to eating the right food, there’s plenty you can do to put the spring back into your step. Here are the best preventative measures...
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OIL YOUR JOINTS
To offset winter chills and aching joints massage yourself a few times a week with warming oils. Try untoasted sesame oil, or for a little bit of luxury: Aesop Breathless, enhanced with nut oil extracts (£25. aesop.com). It will improve circulation, digestion, and help you to get a good 1 night’s sleep.
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SPICE THINGS UP
Take inspiration from ayurveda and add a warming blend of spices to your breakfast. Follow the lead of 26 Grains in Covent Garden by adding cinnamon, turmeric and ginger to your porridge: flavourful and packs a powerful punch of ingredients proven to bolster flagging immunity. 26grains.com
OPEN YOUR HEART
An easy way to ward off sicknesses is to weave more heartopening poses, such as Camel Pose (Ustrasana), Fish Pose (Matsyasana), and Bridge Pose (Setu Bandha Sarvangasana), into your yoga practice. Heart openers stimulate blood flow to the thymus, a gland tucked behind the breastbone that is instrumental in the growth of T-cells, an essential weapon of your body’s immune system. Try TriYoga’s winter solstice workshops. triyoga.co.uk
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Iceland is the perfect place for a wellness experience. It is one of the happiest countries in the world and has some of the purest air and freshest water on the planet. Deplar Farm is tucked away in the remote north, on the otherworldly Troll Peninsula. In winter, the long dark nights will nurse you into the deepest sleep you’ve ever had, and although days are short, they are still packed with adventure and revitalising activities from horseback riding to cross-country skiing. Back at the lodge, guests can choose to spend entire days hopping from the geothermal-heated pool to isopod flotation tanks and an outdoor Viking sauna. A visit to Deplar Farm wouldn't be complete without a healing soak in pure spring water harvested from the valley, while (hopefully) catching sight of the Aurora Borealis. BOOK IT: Doubles from £1,373 per person based on double occupancy; including full board, custom adventure itineraries and transfers. elevenexperience.com
EAT FOR YOUR EMOTIONS
Omega-3s found in oily fish and algae, such as seaweed and spirulina, are thought to exert an antidepressant effect by improving the 4 function of cells in the brain and blood. Together Health pure vegan algae softgels provide natural DHA and EPA Omega 3. £13.99. togetherhealth.co.uk
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PROMOTION
GENTLE REFRESH Dr Nina’s soft approach to aesthetic enhancement focuses on your best features
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features without over doing it. At each personal assessment, Dr Nina analyses the client’s face before devising a tailormade treatment plan, with emphasis on enhancing symmetry and natural results. ‘I combine my medical, dental and aesthetics knowledge to offer a unique approach,’ she explains. No wonder her facial sculpting treatments (a concept rather than a surgical procedure) have become the talk of the town. On the menu in her Chelsea clinic, you’ll find the smartest range of treatments like Aqualyx (reducing fat pockets of partyseason puffiness without the need for liposuction), or microneedling to stimulate collagen production for tired skin. Far from encouraging you to go for a full-on frozen forehead, she takes ‘body dysmorphia very seriously’ and aims to ‘enhance inner beauty without changing someone’s face completely’. The gratitude of her clients is her driving force, which is why they return to her time and time again. The urge to panic-buy surgical quick fixes can be overwhelming but, especially if you’re a newcomer to injectables, you need to choose which pair of hands to leave your face in very carefully to achieve results that refresh, rather than reinvent. With impeccable medical and dental credentials – they don’t come better than Dr Nina’s. facialsculpting.co.uk
hat’s your January trick to make yourself glow? Whether it’s a long hot bath, a brisk cold walk, or a yoga class, we all have different ways of refreshing ourselves after Christmas. Dr Nina Bal’s philosophy is to ‘empower women to look and feel their very best’. The Doctor’s little black book of clients has filled as quickly as her Instagram (450k followers and counting), drawn by her talent for subtly enhancing a feature here, softening a line there. In a nutshell: make the old-fashioned most of what god gave you. ‘New year, new me’ mania can lead people to overdo the Botox or filler. But with Dr Nina’s ‘Golden Ratio’ (based on Da Vinci’s) she helps you to achieve a facial tweakment that enhances your favourite
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UP FRONT B E A U T Y
THE KNIGHTSBRIDGE FACELIFT SW1 is fast becoming London’s go-to for all things beauty, health and wellness. But are you a Harrods or an Urban Retreat kinda girl? asks Eva Ramirez
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he Royal Borough’s approach is more holistic than overhaul; think subtle tweakments and non-invasive therapies over surgical procedures. Instant results with minimal downtime are key and if they happen to bolster our gut health or realign our chakras too, then all the better. Harrods has expanded its beauty and wellness space by 53 per cent with a new Beauty Hall and revamped Wellness Clinic. Around the corner, Urban Retreat has converted a five-storey building christened ‘The White House’ into a health and beauty emporium. We’ve searched both hotspots to cherry-pick the stand-out treatments, products and therapists that’ll have you hopping straight onto the Piccadilly line.
You’re bound to find something to suit your skin in world’s largest beauty emporium. ‘Magic’ mirrors use AI technology to virtually apply products without going anywhere near bacteria-laden testers. The Wellness Clinic is a holistic medical hybrid, with international doctors, reiki masters and the best aestheticians in the business. BEST PRODUCTS: Japan’s Clé de Peau Beauté chose Harrods as its
exclusive UK launch partner. We love the Radiant Fluid Foundation (£105). BEST FACIAL: The Super Seed Nutrient facial by plant-based Votary
works wonders on sensitive skin. It involves a very light lactic acid peel followed by a rose quartz facial massage. BEST BODY TREATMENT: 111Cryo’s full-body chamber boosts metabolism, encourages muscle recovery post-exercise and tightens skin, all in just three minutes at -90°C. BEST WELLNESS RITUAL: The Elixir Clinic offers a cocktail
menu of 15 different intravenous vitamin infusions to target specific complaints. BEST THERAPIST: Dr John Tsagaris’
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acupuncture treatment regenerates the skin with microneedles and microinjections of hyaluronic acid. ULTIMATE HIGHLIGHT:
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You’d be forgiven for mistaking Urban Retreat on Hans Crescent for a private members’ club. The lower ground floor is home to the Khera-Griggs Cleanse Clinic, where nutrition consultation, bespoke cleanses, diagnostic testing, body contouring, colonic hydrotherapy, infrared saunas, one-onone yoga, pilates and meditation sessions are all available. Frédéric Fekkai has chosen to open his fi rst global salon here and there’s also a women’s wellness centre led by Harley Street’s fi nest Dr John Studd. BEST PRODUCTS: Haute Custom Beauty’s Tailored Beauty
Ritual (£660) will switch up your entire regime with a 30day supply of HCB Elixir Collection, Collagen Tonic and Moisturiser Supreme, all specific to your skin type. BEST BEAUTY TREAT: SumanBrows is the best in the business. Book in for a bespoke microblading session with SumanBrows and have your utterly transformed and lifted with natural-looking brows. BEST BODY TREATMENT: Yumiko Inoue’s Manual Lymphatic Body Treatment uses massage, reflexology and cupping techniques to smooth, flatten and debloat in all the right areas. BEST WELLNESS RITUAL: Conscious connected breathing
with Breathguru Alan Dolan will revolutionise the way you think about breath. It will recharge your system, promote healing, shift trapped negative energy and detoxify the body. BEST THERAPIST: As far as colonics go, this is as glamorous as
they get. Naturopathic nutritionist Amanda Griggs uses hydrotherapy as well as Manex Ibar’s Fréquence chakra oils to leave you feeling light, cleansed and clear-headed. ULTIMATE HIGHLIGHT:
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Internationally renowned Shaman Durek (Gwyneth Paltrow’s go-to) calls Urban Retreat his base when in the UK. Book a healing session with this spiritual mentor for a mind-bodysoul experience like no other. n
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BLOOMING MARVELLOUS Globe-Trotter has released a new line of luggage, taking springtime and the classic English garden as its inspiration. The collection will be available in ivory and burgundy, or midnight blue and black options, from February at its Albemarle Street flagship. From £770. globe-trotter.com
GOOD TIMES
Wear an original artwork by Ronnie Wood on your wrist. He has individually hand-painted 47 limited-edition watch dials for Bremont while on tour with the Rolling Stones. bremont.com
M E N ’ S
S T Y L E
WELL GROOMED
CRAFTY CAPSULE Loewe continue its capsule collections inspired by Arts and Crafts heroes, this time focusing on renowned British ceramicist William De Morgan, fêted for his extraordinary tile designs. Puzzle Open wallet, £595. loewe.com
New year, old-school brands. By Matt Thomas
CHOOSE YOUR SHOES Quarter & Last is a new e-tailer dedicated purely to shoes, with a carefully curated pick of brands and styles to click and buy, from Derby brogues to Chelsea boots. quarterandlast.com
BEN FOR BELSTAFF Belstaff has announced an ambassadorship with Sir Ben Ainslie and a partnership with his Ineos team, and will design an official on-shore, ’50s-inspired capsule of 23 pieces for the British Challenger of the 36th America’s Cup, taking place in New Zealand in March 2021. belstaff.com
MAKE FOR THE MOUNTAINS
Canadian brand Nobis cleverly applies highperformance textiles and tech innovation to outerwear, footwear and accessories designed to take you from the city straight up into the mountains. Kane men’s utility parka, £1,045. nobis.com
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UP FRONT S O C I A L
S C E N E
HIGH SOCIETY
Laurent Feniou and Victoria Pendleton
People, parties, places
Sophie Perkins
Lord and Lady Lloyd Webber
Hum Fleming
Camilla Rutherford Laura Pradelska and Lisa Snowdon
Patrick Grant
Bea Fresson
Sabrina Percy
Jade Parfitt and Betty Bachz
Catie Munnings
Daisy Lowe, Eric Underwood and Erin O’Connor
RACING STRIPES
Jade Jagger
BRANCHING OUT
A bit of horsing around is only to be expected at The Cartier Racing Awards – and by that we mean Prince Khalid Abdullah’s Enable winning the prestigious Cartier Horse of the Year. Afterwards, guests were treated to a feast of diver scallops, spiced English plum cake and pumpkin ice cream. We’re angling for our 2020 invite...
Lady Eliza Manners and guest
Hot new hotel alert: Treehouse welcomed famous faces for its opening, from Nicole Scherzinger to Daisy Lowe (who made a mini Extinction Rebellion tribute). While it’s still a bit chilly for rooftop bars – if reactions to the 360-degree view from The Nest are to be believed, it’ll be the chicest new hangout by spring.
Diego Bivero-Volpe and Charlotte Carroll
TIMEPIECE TATTLE Reggie Yates
Sabrina Percy
Dylan Jones
PHOTOS: GETTY
David Gandy
George Bamford Geri Horner and Natalie Pinkham
Christian Horner and Guy Berryman
Amber Le Bon
Can you spot the former Spice Girl at TAG Heuer’s bash? Dominating Café Serpentine with South-of-France glitz, the brand put on a lavish celebration as the Monaco watch turned 50. Models and moguls jived to background beats by Amber Le Bon; but the highlight was a reveal of two new editions of the iconic timepiece.
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Colony Collection: Wallpaper, Print and Woven Fabrics
www.thibautdesign.com tel: 020 7737 6555
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Kalahari Wallpaper. Curtains in Floral Gala. Cushions in Stockholm Chevron, Timbuktu. Frederik Settee in Piper. Avalon Ottoman in Grassmarket Check.
ART CU LT U R E BOOKS PEOPLE
THE GUIDE THE MIGHTY MUSHROOM
PHOTO: SEANA GAVIN, MINDFUL MUSHROOM, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST
Did you know that mushrooms are one of the most naturally sustainable foods on the planet? A new funghi-tastic exhibition at Somerset House explores the glorious ‘shrooms in the form of art, lighting, architecture and even shoes – but these ones don’t have a carbon footprint. 31 Jan to 26 April. somersethouse.org.uk
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WALK
HEALING HERITAGE
Looking to add some extra zen to your dog walk? Slow down the pace of life at the National Trust’s new mindfulness trail at The Vyne. Meandering through magnificent Hampshire woodland, you’ll encounter ten thought-provoking questions and discover the estate’s most chilled-out locations. 11 Jan to 9 Feb. nationaltrust.org.uk
E V E N T S
COUNTRY LIFE
Mindful mode at The Vyne in Hampshire
DON’T MISS FESTIVAL
WORD PLAY
PHOTOGRAPHY
Mindfulness and monochrome. By Sofia Tindall
STILL LIFE
Don McCullin’s poignant landscapes
You don’t have to be a tubestop from the Tate to see Don McCullin’s latest exhibition, which is showing at Hauser & Wirth in Bruton. Much-celebrated as a veteran war photographer, The Stillness of Life turn the lens to McCullin’s home country, with over 70 black and white landscapes treading an arrestingly beautiful path through England. 25 Jan to 4 May. hauserwirth.com
The UK’s brand new spoken-word festival, Words Weekend is arriving at Sage Gateshead in December and with it a programme of activists, outstanding women, Booker-prize winners and critically-acclaimed shows. Tipped to be scintillatingly good; don’t worry if you miss its northern run – you can catch it when it arrives in London in July. 6–8 Dec. wordsweekend.com ART
Having earned critical acclaim in New York, Hansol Jung’s unforgettable 21stcentury love story Wild Goose Dreams is making its way to the gentler climes of Bath, where it will premier at the Ustinov studio. Set in North and South Korea, and with modern twists in the plotline like a dating app; keep an eye out for Michael Boyd, who’s bringing his expertise from the RSC to the mix. 21 Nov to 21 Dec. theatreroyal.org.uk
New-age romance by Hansol Jung
With the dark and dreary winter months well and truly upon us, we could all use a colourful lift. Anne Ryan’s cheerful, creative and curious constructed paintings in Earthly Delites are brightening up the Hastings Contemporary. Just the thing to elevate your spirits on a rainy afternoon. 18 Jan to 22 March. hastings contemporary.org
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PHOTOS: © JIM MOIR
BROADWAY TO BATH
PHOTOS: ©DON MCCLLIN
COLOURFUL CREATIONS
THEATRE
THE GUIDE
EXHIBITION
HAVING A LAUGH
Annie McGrath has taken over the Fiumano Clase gallery with Art is the Best Medicine, an exhibition exploring mental health and comedy. In addition to perusing pieces by famous comedians, you’ll be able to buy one for your own walls, and a third of sales proceeds will go to Mental Health UK. Pick up a playful artwork, and interesting dinner conversation piece in one. 13–20 Dec. fiumanoclase.com
DON’T MISS
E V E N T S
TOWN LIFE
London embraces light therapy
ART
Who knew comedian Jim Moir was such a talented watercolourist?
Centre yourself with chromotherapy
INSTALLATION
LIGHT RELIEF
London, take a deep breath and make your way to Eccleston Yards, the trendy new creative working space that has embraced the health craze for chromotherapy with Wave, a multi-sensory light installation. The 500 orbs change colours to stimulate happiness (yellow) or calm the heart rate (blue). Prefer to go solo? Destress and decompress by trying it out in your lunch break. Until 11 Jan. grosvenor.com Spring comes early to SW3
GARDENING
PHOTOS: © JIM MOIR
PHOTOS: ©DON MCCLLIN
GLORIOUS GARDENS
Take along the green-fingered gardener in your life, and soak in the most beautiful horticultural offerings of Chelsea Physic Garden’s ‘Heralding Spring’ event. Walks, talks, workshops and a UK-leading snowdrop expert (known as a ‘galanthophile’) Joe Sharman, will ensure a re-vitalising day experiencing nature in SW3. 25 Jan to 5 Feb. chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk
MODERN MUSES A woman who caught the attention of Peggy Guggenheim, Mondrian and Marcel Duchamp is not to be underestimated. Hedda Stene’s unique, surrealist style made its mark on regressive 1940s America, and it carries just as much of an impression today. Pay a visit to the first ever UK exhibition of her artworks at the Victoria Miro gallery before they head back to America. 29 Jan to 21 March. victoria-miro.com
THEATRE
OH, BRITANNIA! In 2008, The Guardian published a collection of Craig Taylor’s eavesdropped conversations across the country. The theatrical take of ordinary-life cameos One Million Tiny Plays About Britain, by The Watermill Theatre is just as humorous and heartwarming. Even the most reluctant theatregoer will be entertained. 4 Dec to 11 Jan. jermynstreet theatre.co.uk
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THE GUIDE C U L T U R E
THE EXHIBITIONIST Happiness is getting your hands dirty, says Ed Vaizey
M
att Hancock, the Secretary of State for Health and Social Care, is extremely energetic. He fizzes with ideas. He makes the Duracell Bunny look like a sloth. At the end of last year, he announced the creation of the rather clunkily named The National Academy for Social Prescribing (NASP). And although it sounds boring, it is revolutionary. If you’re feeling a bit low, chances are you might visit your GP, who will more than likely give you a prescription for pills to cheer you up. More and more people realise this is not a sensible strategy. Imagine instead that your doctor signed you up to join a choir, or a gym, or a walking group. That’s what social prescribing is – substituting a social activity for chemicals. As this month’s magazine shows, there are many ways to feel better, but even if you feel fantastic, it’s still worth taking up a hobby. One of the most exciting places to go in search of new stimulation is Studio Pottery, a recently opened ceramics studio in central London that is utterly unique. It is a space for pottery enthusiasts and beginners alike. As the founders put it, ‘It combines the intimacy and meditative art of being at one with the wheel, with the elegance of a gallery space.’ Studio Pottery was set up by Lucy Attwood and Gregory Tingay. Lucy used to work at Christie’s and is impeccably connected in the art world. Gregory used to be a monk, and is an accomplished potter in his own right, studying under a pupil of the famous Bernard Leach. When Lucy went to Gregory for lessons, a professional partnership was born which has resulted in this exciting space. Interior architect Vesna Aksentijevic of FLINT worked closely with Lucy and Gregory to create an open-plan studio
FROM TOP: Lift your mood with a class at Studio Pottery London in Eccleston Yards
with a Bauhaus aesthetic while retaining contemporary flair. It’s been endorsed by well-known artists, such as ceramicist Edmund de Waal. The Pottery is based in an open-plan 3,000 sq/ft site, lent by Grosvenor Estates, which is developing Eccleston Yards into a cultural quarter, sitting neatly between Sloane Square and Victoria. There are regular classes, one-to-one tuition, occasional workshops, masterclasses and corporate off sites. You can also buy quality ceramics and sign up for cultural trips abroad, to places like Japan. Experienced potters can become members with their own area where they can come in and well, just potter. Gregory Tingay, who is the artistic director of the studio and resident potter, recognises the benefits of moulding clay and working with your hands, in a way our Health Secretary and chief social prescriber would approve of. ‘The centring of clay on the wheel acts as a metaphor for the centrality of learnt skill and craft in this ancient art form, as well as the spiritual and psychological centring which gives pottery its therapeutic dimension.’ As you contemplate gym membership or a spa treatment to welcome in the new you in 2020, maybe it’s time to try something different. Go on, get your hands dirty. studio-pottery-london.com n
50 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | January 2020
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Chris Levine with his portraits of The Queen in his new Bermondsey studio
A R T I S T ’ S
S T U D I O
CHRIS LEVINE
The artist uses light to almost spiritual effect, says Caiti Grove
‘O
ften we try to squeeze things into how we would like them to be – meditation is about things as they really are,’ says Chris Levine, sitting in his Bermondsey studio. ‘If I meditate consistently I go with the flow, make decisions for the right reasons, deal with life as it is lived, not as I want it to be. That’s a good place to start – reality.’ Chris discovered Vipassana meditation 20 years ago when he spontaneously joined a ten-day silent retreat in Nepal. He has been back ten times since. ‘I thought the alternative to topping myself was to go to this thing in Kathmandu,’ he says simply. ‘Suddenly the sky was blue again and there was a sense of awe about things.’ The practice was originally taught by the Buddha 2600 years ago. His mission was the relief for suffering and that alone. You sit completely still, aware of sensations, twinges and tingles that, over time, become almost unbearable. With practice, the aim is to distance yourself from the discomfort until, explains Chris, ‘suddenly you separate from it, it’s like you’re just watching the pain’. A light artist, Chris plays with lasers, transforming spaces into all-encompassing experiences that feel almost spiritual. His pieces are shared viscerally, intense moments that focus the mind on the present. Ultimately, he hopes to slow his audience down, ‘It’s about getting people to achieve a moment of stillness, a refuge from all the craziness, a moment of time out.’ He is currently planning a project for next year’s Glastonbury – expected to be particularly extravagant for the festival’s 50th birthday
celebrations. In 2016 he created the backdrop to Phillip Glass’s tribute to Bowie, performed by a 60-piece orchestra. Next year’s project will draw from Somerset’s ancient energy pathways, ‘It’s going to tap into lay lines and the energy of the earth,’ he says, remaining intentionally ambiguous. ‘That part of the country used to be a series of islands called Avalon and is very rich with Stonehenge and a lot of stone circles. So I want to channel the energy and magnetism of the earth.’ Perhaps his most famous image is his portrait of the Queen, an almost dreamlike photo that appears 3D. It was taken by a camera on tracks that took lots of photos in quick succession, which makes it appear like a hologram. ‘There’s a tendency to watch the camera go past so I made an ultraviolet cross and asked the Queen to focus on it so when the camera moved across she wouldn’t be distracted. If you can get quiet and still enough, truth seems to reveal itself.’ Indeed. Commissioned by Jersey to commemorate 800 years since they broke from France and joined Great Britain, the portrait is surreal. Dressed in regal finery and a crown, her eyes are shut; it feels almost intimate. ‘There’s a different dimension of beauty there,’ says Levine, looking at the photograph, ‘and I’m not a royalist by a long stretch. You can almost get closer to her because she’s got her eyes closed. You’re not intimidated by all the pomp.’ Other sitters aren’t quite so easy. Grace Jones arrived ten hours late. ‘She didn’t turn up till midnight – but you go in there knowing this is Grace, she’s on a different clock. She always delivers in the end.’ n January 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 51
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THE GUIDE B O O K S
GOOD READS
Books that deliciously dip into the past. By Richard Hopton THE SECRETS WE KEPT LARA PRESCOTT
This engaging novel – Lara Prescott’s first – is set in the 1950s against the backdrop of the Cold War. The action takes place in Washington DC, Soviet Russia and Europe. The gilded icon at the centre of the book is Boris Pasternak’s Doctor Zhivago, banned in the Soviet Union but first published in Italy – in Italian – in 1957. This is the story of how the novel became a weapon in the struggle between East and West, communism and capitalism, dictatorship and democracy during the Cold War. The novel opens with the arrest and interrogation of Olga Vsevolodovna, Pasternak’s mistress and muse, by the KGB. After a show trial, she is sentenced to three years in a labour camp. Prescott vividly conjures up the arbitrariness of the Soviet regime, the brutality of the labour camps and the all-pervading atmosphere of fear and suspicion which dominated Russia in these years. In Washington, Prescott takes up the story of Irina Drozdova, a young Russian
DOWN IN THE VALLEY Laurie Lee, ed. David Parker This slim but charming volume captures the authentic voice of Laurie Lee reminiscing in old age about his youth in the Cotswold villages above Stroud. David Parker transcribed the text from sound interviews he conducted with Lee three years before his death in 1997. Lee’s reminiscences summon up a world, now long disappeared, which will nevertheless be familiar to readers of Cider with Rosie. Life was simpler than it is now but harder and more uncertain, too. People in these Cotswold valleys then lived close to the land, close to nature and close to their past. Penguin Classics, £12.99
TO CALAIS, IN ORDINARY TIME James Meek The Black Death was one of the most destructive outbreaks of pandemic disease in human history, killing half the population of northern Europe in the 1340s. It forms the background to James Meek’s new novel, a story which immerses the reader in the medieval world. Meek’s world is not simply an older version of our own but a strange and different place. The language of the novel, alternately Latinate, Frenchified and common English, although original and lending authenticity, does not make it the easiest of reads but persevere. It’s worth it. Canongate, £18.99
woman whose mother fled to the United States. She lands a job in the typing pool at the CIA where her usefulness is soon recognised and she begins to be trained as a spy. Prescott deftly recreates life in government service in 1950s Washington: at times it feels rather like Mad Men transposed to Pennsylvania Avenue with government-issue pitch pine in place of Madison Avenue glitz. The casual, institutionalised sexism of the time, however, remains, a point Prescott hammers home remorselessly. The story then moves at pace between Russia, Washington and Europe as Doctor Zhivago joins the infantry divisions and the nuclear warheads as a weapon in the Cold War. Irina is trained in spy craft by a maverick veteran American agent, Sally Forrester; their relationship becomes one of the central strands of the novel. This is a highly readable novel about the power of literature, the capacity of a single book to alter the balance of a struggle between opposing nations and ideologies. The pen really is mightier than the sword. Hutchinson, £12.99
THE MAN WHO SAW EVERYTHING Deborah Levy This quirky, elusive novel opens with Saul Adler, a young academic historian, being knocked down on the famous pedestrian crossing outside Abbey Road studios. Much of the action takes place in the former East Berlin in the last year of the communist regime. It moves sinuously between different parts of Adler’s life, laying bare his many acts of unkindness and self-indulgence, asking questions about memory, perception and human behaviour. Levy’s writing gives Adler something approaching a sixth sense, as if he is preternaturally aware of the connections, real and imagined, in his life, lending the novel an almost surreal, otherworldly atmosphere. Hamish Hamilton, £14.99
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TEN HEALTH & FITNESS
There are only ten people in every class at Ten Health & Fitness – hence the name. Reformer newcomers should opt for one of their beginner’s classes which have a mix of activation exercises and isolation sequences. While to kick it up a notch, you’ll feel the burn from an intermediate session. Their pristine studios can be found dotted around London – from Notting Hill to Fitzrovia. Four classes for £50 (intro offer). ten.co.uk
REFORMER REBOOT
Get moving and re-invigorate tired muscles at four of London’s chicest reformer pilates classes HEARTCORE
CORE KENSINGTON
With a focus on rehabilitation – at Core Kensington you’ll find classes for teens, older adults and pre and post-natal women. Based in a light, airy studio on a street just off of Kensington High Street, in addition to state-of-the-art equipment the trainers’ anatomical knowledge is second to none. £15 for a group class (intro offer). corekensington.co.uk
As the chicest gym-bunny hangout in London, Heartcore’s Carnaby Street flagship benefits from a Farm Girl and Duck & Dry upstairs for a post-pilates blow dry. Each 55-minute class combines athletic conditioning and classical pilates while strengthening the core, and every practice ends with a herbal tea. Three classes for £45 (intro offer). heartcore.co.uk
EXHALE PILATES
And breathe: Gaby Noble heads up this award-winning pilates studio in north London, and she’s gained something of a cult following thanks to her dedication to the classical reformer method. Exhale has the latest stateside apparatus, aiding a results-driven method that’s still rooted in old-school classical theory. Harry Styles and Sadie Frost are fans. Reformer intro from £95. exhalepilateslondon.com
To read more visit countryandtownhouse.co.uk
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THE GUIDE
JA NUA RY IN THE GA RDEN
G A R D E N I N G
SEEDER’S DIGEST The early bird gets a long season of sweet peas, says Sarah Raven
TIME FOR SWEET PEAS If you haven’t already sown your sweet peas, you can do so now under cover. Sown now, they’ll give you earlier flowers in greater numbers and a longer season, from May right up until September. They are easy to grow, just don’t forget to pinch out the growing tip of the leader, to encourage strong growth. Over the last 20 years I’ve trialled over 100 different varieties, looking for a delicious scent as one of my key requirements. One of my favourite collections is The Ultimate Sweet Pea Collection (£11.95) or the Sweet Pea ‘Matucana’ (from £1.95).
Sweet Pea ‘Matucana’
HOW TO PLAN A KITCHEN GARDEN Start thinking about all the veg you’d like to grow this year. Make a must-have list of the things that you know taste better homegrown and that you will look forward to eating. Try not to be unrealistic about what you can manage, or what you’ll actually get around to eating. You can then plan how and where you’re going to grow it all.
» »
Cover the ground to keep out the wet.
»
Place netting over brassicas to protect them from pigeons.
»
Sow leeks, onions, broad beans, hardy peas, spinach and carrots under cover.
»
Sow greenhouse tomatoes for an early crop.
»
Use cloches or clear plastic to warm the soil for early sowings.
»
Sow mustard wasabi salad leaves under cover. It’s a quick and easy cut-andcome-again salad leaf, which tastes of wasabi, and crops up for at least six months from one sowing.
Sow Swiss chard under cover, you won’t regret it. Once you get used to having this in your garden, you’ll wonder how you survived without it. You can use the stalks and the leaves, and it’s brilliant for risotto, gratins, stir fries and soups.
The Ultimate Sweet Pea Collection, £11.95
PE A S IN A POD
Individual jewel vases, £6.50
Sarah Raven ergo snips, £14.95
All available at sarahraven.com. 20 per cent* off for C&TH readers at Sarah Raven. Visit sarahraven.com and enter offer code CTH20. *T&Cs: offer ends 31 Jan 2020. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer or discount. For full T&Cs, see website.
PHOTOS: © JONATHAN BUCKLEY
The secrets to sweet pea success
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PROMOTION
COUNTRY FILES Le Chameau presents the insider’s guide to Norfolk
Prefer the beach to yourself? Norfolk is the place to come
D
on’t be fooled by the Queen’s stately pile, Norfolk is the place to come for laidback larks, where muddy wellies are the sole wardrobe requirement, and the only other inhabitants on the beach are the seals. This corner of East Anglia is the perfect antidote to London living.
SEAFOOD STOP-OFF A trip to Brancaster beach isn’t complete without sampling the local seafood. Simon Letzer catches lobster, crab and fish daily which are served in freshly-baked baguettes. His low-key Crab Hut is a foodie favourite. letzersseafood.co.uk
Seal spotting at Blakeney Point
HAUGHTY-CULTURE At Houghton Hall in Kings Lynn the Marquess and Marchioness of Cholmondeley have a back garden to rival all others. Their passion for contemporary sculpture has culminated in an impressive collection of artworks by James Turrell, Henry Moore and many more that visitors can go and see for themselves. houghtonhall.com
WINE AND DINE Michelin stars are no longer the specialty of snooty London venues. At Morston Hall’s restaurant, fresh seasonal produce comes with the upside of a setting as cosy and intimate as if you were at home – if Michelin-starred your own home had a spectacular Morston Hall cellar where you can choose a Galton’s No1 beer, or Morston Hall Grand Réserve champagne, depending on what kind of day you’re having. morstonhall.com
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; © PETE HUGGINS
SEAL OF APPROVAL
View Large Reclining Figure (1984), Henry Moore’s masterpiece at Houghton Hall
Don a windbreaker and brave a trip aboard a Beans boat. This family-run business has been ferrying wildlife lovers to Blakeney Point since the 1930s, where visitors can spot seals and resident and migrating birds. beansboattrips.co.uk
Wherever you go and whatever the weather, always be prepared by keeping a pair of Le Chameau in the boot of the car. When you know. Le Chameau. lechameau.com
January 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 55
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With its bright orange paint job, you won’t lose this Mazda in the car park
C A R S
ROAD TEST
This long-serving convertible is 30 years old and better than ever, says Jeremy Taylor
VITA L STATS Mazda MX-5 RF 30th Anniversary PRICE £29,895 ENGINE Engine 2.0-litre POWER 181 hp 0-62MPH 6.8 Seconds ECONOMY 40.9 mpg
TOWN
COUNTRY
It’s official – the little Mazda MX-5 is the bestselling, two-seat sports car of all time. Forget the pricey BMW Z4 and Porsche Boxster, if you want a little extra zoom-zoom on a tight budget this is the one. Lightweight, simple to drive and lots of fun, the world’s number one roadster is now even better. A special 30th anniversary version is available too – provided you like a bright orange paint job. Often described as a modern-day MGB because of its affordability and ease of use, the MX-5 is far better than that – being a Mazda this convertible doesn’t leak, burn oil and has first-class reliability. The latest RF version – that’s Retractable Fastback – also features a folding hard-top roof. Far from adding extra weight, the tin top means less noise at cruising speed and reduces the risk of vandals slashing your fabric roof. Around town there’s a greater sense of security and, when the sun does shine, the roof folds away in 13 seconds. The RF is around £2,000 more expensive but well worth it for the extra peace of mind. Compact and nimble, the MX-5 is a joy to drive around town. The rear roof buttresses on the RF make reversing a little tricky but parking sensors and a rear camera prevent the dents. RATING: 4/5 HANDBAGS
This is the most refined MX-5 ever. The stitched leather trim and heated Alcantara seats are first class, although some find the Mazda’s low driving position without seat height adjustment unfamiliar. A slab-like infotainment screen is a carbuncle on the dashboard and it’s easy to accidentally knock the control knob situated by the driver’s left hand. At least the high set gearstick is perfectly placed for enthusiastic driving. Equipped with the larger, 2.0-litre engine the RF feels brisk on a cross-country drive. The high-revving engine needs to be worked hard to extract every ounce of performance. There are far quicker hot hatchbacks around but none offer the same sense of joie de vivre. Even on a dull day it’s fun to lower the roof on the RF and enjoy an engaging drive in a cosy cabin made for two. Mazda has equipped the MX-5 with a whole raft of safety features, while sat nav and an upgraded Bose sound system are standard in the Anniversary car. The orange special is restricted to 3,000 units globally. While it’s not cheap, entry-level versions with a 1.5-litre engine start at below £20,000. Iconic is often over-used to describe cars these days but the MX-5 is pure, petrol-powered pleasure. RATING: 4/5 WELLIES
56 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | Jaunary 2020
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THE GUIDE
Large animal detection is a lifesaver if you come face to face with an elk
THE DRIVE
VITA L STATS Volvo V60 Cross Country Plus PRICE £40,785
When the first snow flurries bring Britain slithering to a standstill this winter the Swedes will wonder what the fuss is all about. In subarctic Umeå, 318 miles north of Stockholm, the temperature barely rises above freezing. The record low is -38°C but the January average is a ‘balmy’ -10°C – the snow drifts rarely melt. Cars require studded tyres by law and that’s no bad thing if you meet a wandering elk. I’ve watched Volvo crash test their cars on a lifesize dummy of these enormous beasts – a situation you don’t want to experience. So I’m keeping my speed down as I steer through the edge of town. Aurora hunting in Umeå
ENGINE D4 2.0-litre POWER 190 hp 0-62MPH 7.6 seconds
BOOK IT: visitumea.se; storahotelletumea.se; northernsouljourneys.com; arcticretreat.se n
ECONOMY 55.4mpg
PL AY TIM E DON’T TAKE IT SO SERIOUSLY SENNHEISER MOMENTUM HEADPHONES The Rolls-Royce of backseat listening for you or your children: noise cancellation, 17-hour battery and a neat app. £349. sennheiser.com
My Volvo V60 Cross Country has four-wheel drive and is equipped with every safety feature known to man, including large animal detection. What’s that? At night, if wildlife wanders onto the road, a smart camera alerts the driver and can operate brake assistant. If you think that’s not likely in the UK, it happened to me in the Cotswolds early one morning with a herd of deer. The camera even identified which animal and flashed the shape up on the infotainment screen. Ingenious. Umeå is a centre for the Northern Lights hunters. It’s a bucket list experience but there are no guarantees it will appear. Talking to other guests in the Stora Hotel I discover the best view is away from the city centre. It’s difficult dragging yourself from the luxurious comforts of this old seaman’s mission, surrounded by warm cafés and bars. I then spend a good two hours watching the skies – occasionally nipping back to the V60 to warm up on the heated seats. But as snow starts to fall, it’s clear I won’t even see twinkling star, let along the aurora borealis. A three-hour drive north the next day brings me to remote Gunnarsbyn, on the edge of the Arctic Circle. Surrounded by pine forest, I swap the Volvo for a dog sled and mush off across the snow. The sky is clear and I’m wrapped up in an adult-sized romper suit. Comical, but toasty warm. My final destination is the rustic Arctic Retreat, a small collection of wooden lodges tucked away in the woods. Night temperatures have dipped to -22°C and just walking from the car to the front door is an experience. However, the Retreat also offers guests a chance to embrace the environment by making use of a hot tub in the garden. Sartorially, it’s tricky deciding what to wear on the 15ft dash to water – I’d advise a hat at all times! Relaxing with a glass of wine, I lean back and let the water seep up to my neck. It’s only then I notice an unusual light above the trees, dancing madly through the branches. When magic happens, we tend to reach for the camera but in this instance, 15ft back to the cabin in freezing temperatures is just one step too far.
BLACK MOUNTAIN HÜTTO BICYCLE An ingenious mountain bike that ‘grows’ with your child. Multiple adjustment means the Hütto can fit kids from 7 to 11-yearsold. From £449. blackmountain.bike
VINTAGE CAR BED Mad about Bond? Sleep in this Aston Martin-style bed, complete with car keys, personalised number plate and lights. The side windows stop you from falling out out when you hear the price. £19,995. dragonsof waltonstreet. com
January 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 57
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Dr Tim Spector is out to bust the biggest myths surrounding our diets
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THE GUIDE
You really are what you eat, Dr Tim Spector tells Matthew Bell Portrait by ALEXANDRA DAO
E
very time Dr Tim Spector sips his coffee, something unique happens. It is different to what happens when I drink my coffee, or you drink yours. This is because, as he explains, every person has a trillion different microbes lining their gut whose composition is unique to them. Forget genetics – what makes us truly individual are the billions of microorganisms lining our intestines all doing different things. It explains why one person might eat a cream cake and put on a pound, while another could eat ten and stay skinny. The study of microbes is a surprisingly new field of science. We all know that we are what we eat, but only in the last ten years have we begun to realise that what goes on in our stomachs can affect everything from our mental health to our weight. ‘Realising that your gut can produce brain chemicals that can make you happy or sad opens up new possibilities,’ he says. ‘Instead of giving someone antidepressants, why not change their diet for a month first?’ Tim came to this field of science through the study of genetics. He started out as a rheumatologist, specialising in bony spurs in knees, on which he was the world expert as a young man. But he realised he didn’t want to spend his life focusing on one thing. So he moved into the study of twins in 1992, setting up TwinsUK at King’s College London, a research project that has grown to become one of the Glass of wine or most data-rich ongoing studies, generating onegreen tea? thousand science papers in 27 years. Glass of red wine. One of the fascinating things to have emerged Rolling hills or is the realisation that the organs of identical seaside? Seaside. twins do not behave in identical ways, despite sharing 99.99 per cent of their genes. This led Power breakfast Tim to look more closely at the composition of or languorous lunch? their gut bacteria, which are only 33 per cent Langourous the same. ‘While your genetic make-up doesn’t lunch. change, your microbes vary depending on your Cat or dog? environment,’ he says. ‘There seems to be a Dog – because of randomness to it: some microbes like living in the microbes. certain people and not others.’ Town or country? In 1999 Dr Jeffrey Gordon– ‘the father of You need both. the microbe’ – wrote a paper positing that gut Sharp suits or bacteria were not all bad. ‘Until then everyone cosy knits? had been trying to nuke ’em. We took antibiotics I guess I’d have to be a cosy knit. like Smarties, which were considered the fix-all for everything. But Gordon showed that they
IN BRIEF
could perhaps be linked to our immune systems. They thought our guts were somehow rotting, and that yogurt cleansed the system. So they got the treatment right. Some people still believe we’re full of toxins that have to be got rid of, but in my view that’s nonsense.’ Understanding this field of science could help tackle some of society’s biggest problems, from obesity to depression and even autism. ‘It’s slightly daunting because it looks like every disease could be associated with gut bacteria, and we don’t yet have the skills to pick them apart,’ he says. ‘It’s a whole new field that needs new specialists.’ Tim admits to being a ‘jack of all trades’, and that some scientists treat him with disdain. He has published two popular science books, most recently The Diet Myth (2015), and his next book, Spoon-Fed, will claim to bust 20 food myths with the strapline: ‘Why almost everything we’ve been told about food is wrong’. Does this sensationalist approach help or does it add to the confusion? ‘Possibly,’ he says. ‘I think you’re right, people are confused, they are getting messages from all over the place. But hopefully my book will show people where the messages have been coming from, mainly the big food companies.’ Tim blames the rise in obesity on the unfettered growth of multinational food companies. ‘We were still eating well until the mid-1970s,’ he says. ‘That’s when you start to get ultra-processed food, which was when these food companies grew to become the colossal forces that they are today.’ But the rise of convenience food is a global phenomenon. Why does Britain have it so bad? ‘Britain has no food culture, so we have been highly susceptible to the marketing of fast food and snacking. It’s why we eat more ready meals in the UK than the rest of Europe combined.’ And it’s not just because we’re busier and more prosperous that our diets suffer. He points to the example of South Korea, which has transformed in 40 years from a poor country to one of the richest and yet there is no obesity crisis. ‘The reason is that they have a very strong food culture,’ he explains. ‘They worship the national dish – kimchi, which is fermented vegetables and extremely good for you.’ Even when people try to champion healthy eating in schools, like Jamie Oliver, he is ridiculed for meddling. ‘He was doing absolutely the right thing. But then the press turned on him, and he was accused of elitism – “Jamie’s trying to ban our chips”.’ Tim believes cooking should be taught in schools as a basic life skill, like reading or writing. ‘We laugh at cookery classes, but it’s incredibly important that people know how to prepare food.’ Life may be too short to stuff a mushroom, but it’s worth knowing how to do it, and perhaps one day, thanks to microbes, what exactly it’s doing to you. n January 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 59
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Gala Perfomance The multifaceted Gala Gordon loves being on stage but she tells Lucy Cleland why she’s using her platform to promote other young rising stars Fashion director NICOLE SMALLWOOD Photographer CARLA GULER
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Dress, belt, bag, chain and earrings, Alexander McQueen Small earring at the top of ear, Gala’s own
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LEFT: Dress, Dior. Ear cuff, Dior Joiallerie. Small earring at the top of ear, Gala’s own RIGHT: Black fringed dress, Simone Rocha. Hoop earring (on left ear) and ring, Cartier. Rose des Vents gold and diamond earring (on right ear), Dior Joaillerie. Small earring at the top of ear, Gala’s own
What resolutions did you find yourself making this year? This is going to be my year of adventure.
I have noticed that I am a creature of habit and would love to explore new places and cultures, so I am going to make a conscious effort to try new things. You’re best known as an actress, but you also started your own production company, Platform Presents, with Isabella Macpherson. Do you prefer to be in front of or behind the camera? Acting has always
been my primary passion, particularly on stage, and will always be my first love. I landed my first job when I was at Guildhall drama school. I was cast as Irina in Three Sisters
directed by Benedict Andrews at the Young Vic. I felt so lucky to be part of, and supported by, such an incredible company of talent. It was during those few months of performing eight shows a week when I suddenly realised I wanted to create a business that would champion rising star talent: actors, writers and directors with a particular interest in female voices. I knew I wanted to team up with a producer, so I approached Isabella for some advice on the company and, wonderfully, she said she wanted to do it with me. There and then Platform Presents was born and my career trajectory changed. I love the journey you go on as a producer, you are across all angles and every element of making a script come to life. I feel like acting and producing go hand in hand with one another and I am learning so much from both. What’s so compelling about the theatre in this digital age? As a generation, we tend to see life
through the lens of an iPhone. I am endlessly surprised when I go to art exhibitions or concerts at how people are consumed by documenting the experience as opposed to living it. Theatre is an art form that will always force people to switch their phones off, sit in a dark room and suspend their disbelief. The power of storytelling on stage is timeless.
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FAR LEFT: Jacket and earrings, CHANEL A/W’19 ready-to-wear. Small earring at the top of ear, Gala’s own LEFT: Top, Victoria Beckham. Plume white gold and diamond earrings, CHANEL Fine Jewellery
perform it again at the Wyndham’s Theatre in the West End. It is very encouraging to see a female actress in a one-woman show, which she has written and developed for so many years, celebrating global success. In terms of people I would love to work with, it would be a dream to be on stage performing a play with some of my favourite actors: Mark Rylance, Denise Gough, Andrew Scott or Juliet Stevenson. What still needs to change for women to stand equally alongside men in the film/theatre industry?
What are the elements of a piece of work that make you want to bring it alive as a producer?
The core of every project for us is good writing. We particularly love dark comedy. There is nothing more exciting than discovering an unknown writer who has penned a brilliant script. You champion female talent. Who have been your role models and who would you really like to work with? Watching Phoebe Waller-Bridge’s success has been
really inspiring. She has grafted for so many years and fought for what she believes in. I first saw her perform Fleabag at Soho Theatre in 2013 and this year I saw her
The imbalance needs to be addressed, which is what we at Platform Presents are drawing awareness to. There are some impressive production companies, like Margot Robbie’s LuckyChap and Reese Witherspoon’s Hello Sunshine, which are championing female-led stories and giving opportunities to women in all professions within the industry. The more companies we have like that, the faster the gap will narrow. How should we be supporting the arts? We need to be supporting new writing and giving space to young talent. We need to broaden our scope of access. NT Live is a brilliant example of a platform that allows people who may not have the opportunity to be a part of the night to experience the theatre on the screens. January 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 65
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‘I AM ENDLESSLY SURPRISED WHEN I GO TO ART EXHIBITIONS OR CONCERTS AT HOW PEOPLE ARE CONSUMED BY DOCUMENTING THE EXPERIENCE AS OPPOSED TO LIVING IT.’ Tell us about the role of poetry in your productions?
Poetry was the genesis of our company. I put together a company of 12 actors to perform their best-loved poems to an audience of 200 people and recognised in that moment how powerful poetry is as an art form. It is the shortest form of storytelling and is still so hard-hitting. Belmond then approached us to represent its poetry and literature worldwide alongside ambassadors of other fields for its Good Living Campaign, so Isabella and I will curate an anthology of poems inspired by Belmond’s heritage of iconic trains and properties. We will also host a special poetry workshop at Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo, Sicily in 2020. It will take place on the hotel’s literary terrace, where DH Lawrence wrote the novel Lady Chatterley’s Lover. It is brilliant to see a luxury brand like Belmond standing in support of our ethos in championing rising star poets and writers.
What has been your recent TV/theatre/film obsession and why? Like everyone else, I am
obsessed with Succession, not only is the acting fantastically nuanced but their writing staff is made up almost entirely of talented British playwrights like Lucy Prebble and Alice Birch, as well as Platform Presents alumni, American writer Mary Laws. The first play we produced – which I also acted in at Soho Theatre – was Mary’s Blueberry Toast. She is remarkable: whip-smart, and her writing has a brilliant combination of comedy and darkness. After we premiered her play here in London, she went straight into the Succession writers’ room and is now is making a television series called Monsterland with Hulu. To be able to witness the career path of a great writer is so exciting. Is London still the exciting, creative place you have always found it to be? I love London. It has
What productions are in the pipeline for you this year? We are hosting our fourth annual
some extraordinary British talent, the best theatre and drama schools. I am constantly learning and inspired.
Poetry Gala on 9 February 2020 at the Savoy Theatre, directed by the wonderful Gemma Arterton in aid of our Platform Presents Playwright’s Prize, and featuring Chiwetel Eijofor, Juliet Stevenson, Denise Gough, Freddie Fox, Alice Eve and Holliday Grainger among others. Isabella and I founded the Poetry Gala to celebrate and highlight great writing through the inspiring medium of poetry, brought to life by stars of the stage and screen. Each year, we curate a selection of poems, traditional and contemporary, and approach actors and poets to perform them on stage for one night only. Leah Gasson was the winner of our 2019 Playwright’s Prize with the first script she had ever written, That Awful Sound. Isabella and I are developing it for stage and screen. Last July we held a reading of it, supported by the Ambassadors Theatre Group, starring Jessie Buckley, Luke Treadaway, Erin Doherty, Aimee Lou Wood, Haydn Gwynne, Pearce Quigley and Karl Queensborough. In October, Leah signed with an agent at Independent Talent. This path is proof of what happens when we all come together and stand on stage at the Poetry Gala in support of new writing and champion those who might not have been seen or heard before.
Where will we next be able to see you on stage or screen? I will be performing a poem in our Poetry
Gala and I am also starring alongside Noel Clarke in Sky One’s television show Bulletproof, coming out soon. What keeps you up at night? Ideas that I want to create. Do you have a brilliant beauty/skincare regime you can share with us? My skincare routine is quite
simple. I always think less is more. I love Barbara Sturm and Aesop products, Diptyque perfume and candles and Teresa Tarmey for facials. How do you switch off and relax? I played a very intense role on stage last year, where my character was suffocating in a toxic marriage, which culminated in a violent act. I recognised early on how this role would demand a huge emotional journey. I knew that I would need to train my body in preparation for performing eight shows a wee, so I started working with Lee Mullins, a trainer at the Workshop Gymnasium, who taught me how important it is to exercise, not only for your mental health and to strengthen your body but also as a way of switching off. Exercise has now become a time where I can focus on myself and relax. To buy tickets for the Platform Presents Poetry Gala on 9 February visit platformpresents.com or atgtickets.com n
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Dress, CHANEL. Coco Crush white gold and diamond hoop earring, CHANEL Fine Jewellery. Rose des Vents white gold and diamond earring, Dior Joaillerie. Small earring at the top of ear, Gala’s own TEAM Fashion assistant: Dina Nagapetyants Hair: Davide Barbieri at Caren using Balmain Paris Hair Couture Makeup: Gina Kane at Caren using Shiseido Manicurist: Emma Welsh @ Frank Agency using CND LOCATION With thanks to The Stratford, east London’s latest design hotel, sister to St Pancras Renaissance Hotel and Chiltern Firehouse. thestratford.com STOCKISTS: PAGE 112
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ON LOCATION Behind the scenes of Gala Gordon’s cover shoot
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f there’s one man who has singlehandedly transformed London’s neighbourhoods, it’s Harry Handelsman. Over the last three decades he has made Clerkenwell cool, kicked off King’s Cross’ major overhaul and given Marylebone serious pulling power with the opening of Chiltern Firehouse. Everything he touches turns to muchdesired property gold, and now he has set his sights on Stratford, employing the talents of Skidmore, Owings & Merrill – the architects behind the Burj Khalifa and One World Trade Centre – to reimagine Stratford’s skyline. Redefining our idea of high-rise living, The Stratford opened in the summer of 2019. It was inspired by the timeless glamour and communal spirit of 1950s New York’s legendary long-stay hotels. As such it was the perfect backdrop to capture the creative talents of our cover star Gala Gordon. While the cleverly designed gardens – three in total – allow for some much-needed headspace. Ideal for our beauty and wellbeing issue. Refreshingly for a London hotel, it has been designed to encourage as much ‘spontaneous’ interaction between guests, and a roster of collaborations (such as life drawing with Alexandria Coe or firepitside tarot card readings with She’s Lost Control) bring the location to life. For long-stay guests there are the
lofts – 248 fully furnished doubleheight loft apartments with unbeatable views. The first six floors contain 145 hotel rooms warmly designed by Space Copenhagen, while on the seventh floor, Harry has poached the talents of Patrick Powell, the former head chef of Chiltern Firehouse, to open the already lauded Allegra restaurant. In Harry’s own words: ‘Picture the perfect 21st-century hotel, what do you see? Impeccable facilities, immaculate service and a great location are all vital. But it needs that unique pulse those famous Manhattan hotels had, like the Carlyle, the Chelsea. A club, meeting place, hotel and home that never treats you like you’re ordinary.’ And this The Stratford has definitely achieved – say hello to the new golden age of travel.
FROM ABOVE: New London landmark, The Stratford has a creative and collaborative energy, making it the perfect location to photograph Gala Gordon
BOOK IT: Doubles from £199. thestratford.com
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AN ODE TO FOOD
PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
From roast chicken to day-long feasts, ignore the barrage of diet advice this January and rekindle the joy of eating. Anastasia Bernhardt and Sofia Tindall speak to three top chefs about the power of food to make you feel good
Food has an immense power to connect
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Paul Ainsworth
The patron chef of No.6 in Padstow grew up on British classics
PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
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grew up in a B&B and my dad was always up with the sparrows cooking for guests. My earliest memories are of full Englishes for the guests, bacon sandwiches and stuff – my friends from school loved it, we’d have them wrapped in a napkin to have walking to school. Both my mum and dad were brilliant cooks, my dad did British classics Monday to Thursday and at weekends my mum, who was from the Seychelles, would take over and make things like Creole curries. We grew rhubarb in the garden to make crumble with Bird's Eye custard. A few years ago I lost my dad. While he was poorly there were certain things that he loved to eat, like offal and mashed potato, onion, gravy and bacon liver. For me, that’s the heart of what food is about – whether it’s Michelin starred or pizza, whether you’re unwell or having a great time – it emotionally makes you feel good. A roast is a fantastic way to cheer yourself up. It just makes you feel great. My dad was from Lancashire, so it was quite normal to have a lump of cheddar with an Eccles cakes or apple pie. At No.6 we do a beautiful apple tarte tatin with a blue cheese, there’s no other flavour combination for me, it’s phenomenal. Bread is my weakness, and anything baked. When a sourdough comes out of the oven, especially with some yellow cultured butter, it’s honestly incredible. We’ve celebrated some amazing times at Rick and Jill Stein’s seafood restaurant, which is just around the corner from us. That’s where we celebrated our Michelin star. But I most love going for dinner at Tom and Beth Kerridge’s. We always have a wonderful time at the Kerridges. The most magical person to have dinner with is my wife, Emma, because it’s such a rarity. We recently had our first family holiday together with our little girl who’s three. I’d already had breakfast and lunch and been to Bouchon bakery for a pastry, but I’d been desperate to try a pizza place called Roberta’s in Brooklyn. The pizza was off the hook. I was so full we had to get an Uber, but it was worth it.
FROM ABOVE: At his restaurant No.6 in Padstow, Paul serves British dishes with a playful slant: Tamar Valley hogget with red garlic ketchup, sweetbread and celeriac fricassee; rabbit terrine with grilled bread and damsons. At The Mariners he serves pub classics, like trifle; and a crispy pollock 'hot dog'
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Hélène Darroze
For the two Michelin-starred chef, whose restaurants include Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, food is a way of life
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ood is in my DNA. It’s part of enjoying life but it’s also a way for me to give happiness to other people. I grew up in the family restaurant [in Villeneuve-deMarsan] in the southwest of France. My grandfather [Jean Darroze], who was a famous chef at the time, loved to bring his grandchildren to the market with him. In the southwest of France, food is culture. People might think this is a bit strange now but we held a festival when we killed the pigs to cook every bit of them over two or three days. My mother had a pharmacy in the village. When people visited her they always brought something from their farm to say thank you. Every Wednesday there was one person who brought very fresh eggs. So, every Wednesday night we would have boiled eggs with soldiers. While the cuisine from my grandfather’s restaurant was very elaborate, at home we ate very basic food, like a simple roast chicken with French fries. When I eat roast chicken now it always reminds me of that time. My daughters tell me they are bored of it because I cook it so often. The area I come from specialises in breeding chickens fed on corn, which are very yellow and very fatty. I put the chicken into the pan with garlic and some herbs and duck fat – never butter or olive oil. The secret is to baste it every five minutes. The last time I ate so much I couldn’t move was at one of my restaurants three weeks ago, just before starting the filming of Top Chef. Some of the filming team and chefs had a dinner together in my restaurant, and I must admit there was a lot of food and it was a big evening! Cooking – and after eating – brings me a lot of happiness. If people are worried about eating the wrong thing, I would advise them to follow the seasons by visiting markets. You will always feel good when you’re cooking if you cook in this way. But the most important thing is to get the family around to share a moment together and encourage everyone to participate. It really is a moment of great happiness.
FROM ABOVE: Grouse from Denbighshire with beetroot and horseradish; Cornish mackerel with tomato, pimento del piquillo, basil and gazpacho consommé; chocolate taïnori from the Dominican Republic with hazelnut and Voatsiperifery pepper; Hélène's favourite – roast chicken
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FROM TOP: At his eponymous Nottingham restaurant, Sat Bains cooks creative, flavour-driven dishes, including Lenton Lane rocky road; squab pigeon with shawarma spices, melon, feta, mint, barbecue sauce; potato cooked over embers with kombu butter and caviar
Sat Bains
Sitting around the table at home in Derbyshire was always a noisy affair, says the chef who now has two Michelin stars
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grew up with Punjabi heritage, so food was always about congregating together. The weekends were always really noisy and busy – my dad has five brothers and my mum has three brothers and sisters. It was always mayhem but the table was the place where we would all be together. It always evokes happy memories. My dad came from Penang, so there was a Malaysian slant to our food. We ate a lot of egg noodles and tamarind dishes. But Wednesdays were always a treat – bangers and mash. Fridays were fish and chips day, I'd wake up every Friday morning feeling excited about it. My mum would cook spinach in a pressure cooker for two days to make saag – I could smell it walking down the street on my way back from school. The smell of cooking spinach transports me to walking down my road in dread! But I love the smell of charred lamb because it takes me back to running around the park while my Greek neighbours barbecued lamb koftas. They were quite chewy but the flavour was incredible. A couple of years ago Michel Roux Senior invited me to a very exclusive dinner at the Waterside Inn; there were just ten of us, including Sir Ian Botham and Mick Hucknall. It was an incredible night, we were tasting Lafite and we were just blown away by it all. Claude Bosi [of Bibendum] was there too, and we were looking at each other like, ‘Have they given us the wrong invite?’ I spent a lot of years travelling with Michel Roux Senior – the way he tastes and talks about food is so elegant and eloquent. I was fortunate enough to go on a trip to Tuscany, the sort of trip that starts with a lovely long lunch. I remember the smell of jasmine as we were drinking champagne and eating courgette-flower fritters. We sat down to a really long Sundaystyle lunch that took hours. They’re the best ever meals. You start about 11.30/12 with a drink, and the food just keeps coming as you work your way into the night. n January 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 75
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COUNTRY BELLE When Sarah Stacey embarked on two-centre living – London and Dorset – she discovered the country code had cosmetic nuances she’d never dreamed of
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fancied I was fitting in just fine. I had horses, I wore wellies, I made jams and chutneys. Then I discovered I was best known in my west Dorset village for the fact my wellies sported leopard spots and I had been seen wearing not just lipstick but also – sharp intake of breath – mascara… In the daytime! On the way to feed my horses. That townie behaviour invariably elicited ribbing of the ‘Off to tea with the Queen, are we?’ variety, which is almost impossible to respond to wittily. I tended to blush and make excuses about my Arab horse being a terrible show off, so I felt I had to live up to his looks. (Actually, having seen some of the maquillage on the hunting field – positively shocking pink lippy paired with an unbridled sweep of blue eye shadow, that didn’t seem unreasonable.) After a decade of writing about beauty, primping my face in the morning was as automatic as boiling the kettle. But as I became acclimatised to country living – and a tad fed up with the jokes – I realised that I should adapt my take on everyday makeup. It’s not just the people and the scenery that are different to urban living, you need to consider the elements from rain, cold and wind to sun and open fires – and the light; yes, it’s cleaner which is great for skin but it’s also clearer, brighter and more revealing. Then there was something that had never occurred to me. In deep country like this, you’re surrounded by the lush innocence of Big Nature where a more natural look is not only prettier but also somehow more fitting. (During the daytime anyway; at night I reserve the right to go the full Joanna Lumley if I feel like it.) Given that I definitely need a bit of cosmetic first aid, mainly to even out my skin tone and give me a bit of colour, going totally au naturel was never an option. The trick, I’ve discovered over the years, is to use products that give a barefaced look with no obvious enhancement save a slick of rosy lip balm (to salve those wind-chafed lips) – but the real story is just a little different. Sarah Stacey is the joint editor of Beauty Bible. beautybible.com
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SKIN SAVIOUR
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BACK TO BASICS
Like well-fitting undies, looking after your skin – ditto hair – is imperative. While lack of pollution and general dampness are skin positives, against those are ranged rawness, wind and sunlight. Balance Me’s Tri-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid is a godsend for dry mature skin. £30. balanceme.com
Romilly Wilde skincare, developed over five years by elegant country dweller Susie Willis, is super effective and proudly 100 per cent free of synthetic chemicals. The Light + Energy Serum Cleanser is a revelation, melding cleanser and treatment. £54. romillywilde.com
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PREP AND PROTECT
Sun prep is non-negotiable – unless you like your skin peppered with pigmentation. For summer, iS Clinical Eclipse SPF50+ Translucent mineral sunscreen is ultra sheer (£32. victoriahealth. com). For spring/ autumn I like Neom Organics Ultimate Calm SPF30 moisturiser (£40. neom organics.com).
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Back to that mascara thing: to my amazement, I have pretty well given up wearing it for daytime both in country and now town because I just look better – kind of fresher – without it. If I had pale lashes though I might be tempted to have them dyed at a reputable salon.
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BRIGHT EYES
What makes the real difference is brightening the eye area. Concealer in the violet nooks and under eyes if necessary, and even out upper lids with Perricone MD’s No Makeup Eyeshadow, which truly looks as if your lids are bare. £29. perriconemd.co.uk
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PUCKER UP
Gel and cream blushers are handy to smoosh on lips (see 10), but, ideally, I keep a Lanolips Tinted Balm SPF30 in every bag and pocket; in three pretty tints – Rose, Rhubarb and Perfect Nude – they really could take me to tea with the Queen. £8.99. cultbeauty.co.uk
THE CHEEK OF IT A pop of blush lifts the whole face. Gel and cream versions look really natural – as if you’ve just come back from a seaside walk and are pretty goof-proof to apply. Rimmel’s Jelly Blush is a beauty steal at just £7.99 (boots.com). More pricey but longer lasting is Clinique Chubby Stick Cheek Colour Balm (£21. lookfantastic. com). n
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CONNECT THE DOTS
If my eyes have disappeared (late night or whatever), using a really fine brush to do teeny tiny dots of liquid eyeliner right down at the base of the lashes brings them up again. (Not inside the waterline if you value your sight, whatever the makeup artists say). Bobbi Brown’s Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner ticks all the boxes. £20. bobbibrown.co.uk
CAMO GEAR
Concealer is my superhero product, particularly for the inner corners of my eyes. I like Clinique Beyond Perfecting Super Concealer Camouflage + 24 Hour Wear; it’s waterproof, and works on dark bits, brown patches and thread veins. Dot it on with a teeny brush, leave for a few seconds then blend in with your little finger. From £16.20. feelunique.com
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LASH OUT
HINT OF TINT
For a dewy even skin tone, apply tinted moisturiser many of which have just enough coverage to blur blemishes. My go-tos are Erborian’s CC Crème SPF25 (from £17. uk.erborian.com), which magically adjusts to your individual skin tone; CC stands for complexion correcting and it does just that. Chantecaille’s Just Skin Tinted Moisturizer SPF15, in seven shades, earned glowing reviews from Beauty Bible’s testers for a fresh-looking ‘no makeup’ finish that looks much better than most foundations (£68. lookfantastic.com).
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GOING FOR GOLD
Training like an Olympian this January may seem like a daunting task, but Jessica Ennis-Hill is taking it back to basics, she tells Sofia Tindall
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earing a fawn roll-neck dappled with leopard spots and indigo jeans against the brisk November day, Jessica Ennis-Hill could be any parent on the school run. But it would be a very fast run: a 100m hurdle in 12.54 seconds, to be precise. In the Hospital Club in Covent Garden, she looks remarkably relaxed for someone who’s achieved so much in seven years: three World Championship titles, an Olympic gold medal in the 2012 London games and receiving a damehood from the Queen for her services to sport in 2017. As someone who skips the gym more often than I would care to admit in print, I can’t quite believe I have the opportunity to grill
her about my New Year’s fitness resolutions. I’m bursting with questions: what’s the regime for training as an Olympian? Is there a secret formula? What are the insider tricks? ‘I don’t think there are really any secrets,’ Jessica tells me. ‘For me it’s about balance and not neglecting any areas of wellness.’ In addition to running and doing various elements of strength training and circuits, a key ingredient in any fitness week is rest, she says. ‘[It’s about] taking time to switch off and take time for yourself. It’s important, but really hard to do sometimes.’ Ennis-Hill may be switching off from training now and then, but she’s definitely not stopping; instead she’s turned her talents to the ever-growing trend for fitness apps – hence Jennis, her app that offers a condensed version of the circuits she completed as an elite athlete
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heading for the Olympics. ‘Ironically, on a Monday I still do the same exercises that I used to do every Monday [in training]. It’s nothing that amazing or different, but it works. I’ve learned that through the years.’ Training like an Olympian in the thick of January when you feel like burying yourself in a bowl of pasta sounds daunting, but you can make a difference in the time it takes to boil an egg, promises Ennis-Hill. On lazy days (yes, astonishingly she also has them) she’ll do a five-minute circuit from the Jennis YouTube channel, working muscle groups with as few as ten reps of each exercise. ‘It’s done in less than five minutes, but you isolate muscles – the core or glutes – so you feel really fatigued after.’ The wellness market has become flooded with different options recently, so it’s hard not to be distracted by the latest matcha powder, ionising water bottle or pilates-barre hybrid class. ‘For me it’s definitely about not being distracted by the latest workouts and fads,’ she says. ‘My trick is to draw it back to basics.’ That means burpees, press-ups, and old-school exercises that work you hard. ‘They’re exercises that make the biggest difference: they work you hard cardiovascularly and you get so much fitter from that kind of workout.’ What about the pitfalls or common mistakes you can stumble on at the beginning of a fitness mission? ‘At the beginning of the year everyone’s the same, aren’t they! It’s like: “It’s January, I’m getting fit.” You can set yourself a target that’s not quite achievable and that’s the biggest thing to stop you right in your tracks.’ Her advice is to keep it simple and set measurable goals (like a 5k run rather than a full marathon) that you can stick to. She’s a big believer in being kind to yourself. ‘Don’t be too hard on yourself in the beginning. It’s the biggest thing to stop you. Build up gradually, because you will get fitter [that way] and to the point that you need to.’ A lot has changed since 2016, the year that Ennis-Hill retired from the world of sport. As the smiling girl from Sheffield she became the face of GB athletics, and she’s still just as grounded as the day the stunned nation watched her win heptathlon gold, but the chief difference, aside from being made a dame, is that she now has two children. Motherhood brings different time pressures to those she faced as an athlete. On busy weeks she’ll fit in a couple of circuits and an invigorating run alongside the natural exercise that comes from taking the dogs out or walking to the school gates. ‘Having two kids, and with everything else going on, I just try to find those little bits of time where I can be good to myself,’ she says. Ennis-Hill’s idols used to be sporting legends like Denise Lewis, but she now draws inspiration from other mums. ‘Whatever their career is or however many kids they have, you just
You can make a difference to your January fitness goals in as little as five minutes
have a new-found respect for how incredible mums can be, juggling everything and still being successful,’ she says. Does she thinks her children will follow in her footsteps? She laughs. ‘Liv can run really fast around the island in the kitchen. Maybe she’ll be a sprinter?’ She’s recently discovered the time-saving bonus of Mindful Chef boxes, which are ‘really nutritionally balanced’. But nothing beats Italian food for a bit of indulgence, she tells me. ‘I like cooking pasta and aubergines. Especially when it’s cold outside – you want things with great ingredients that you can shove in a pot or in the oven.’ To wind down she’ll clock time on the yoga mat – but sometimes an evening on the sofa does the trick just as well. ‘I’m definitely guilty of just wanting to put on my PJs, sit on the sofa and watch Netflix.’ Now that’s the kind of balance I can definitely get on board with. Jessica Ennis-Hill has launched jennis fitness available to download on iOS and Android.£9.99 per month. jennisfitness.com n January 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 79
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LIVING INTERIORS DESIGN
THE INSIDER
TROPIC TALENT It’s wet, windy and blowing a tempest outdoors, and what better time to enjoy a slice of paradise in your home? This colourful Curiousa & Curiousa Antonio Pendant is the perfect way to give a statement wall a new year facelift. curiousa.co.uk
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THE INSIDER ZIGGY STRIPE I recently interviewed Lizzie and Tim of Fromental for The House Guest podcast. This is their Bargello wallcovering featured in Eric Egan’s studio. £715 per 10m roll. fromental.co.uk
KILIM IT Can you ever have enough cushions? Small Kilim cushion, £45. pickett.co.uk
I N T E R I O R S
DESIGN NOTES
Get ziggy with it, says Carole Annett STANDING TALL
Designer Daniel Schofield shared his creative skills with muchloved British brand Ercol, and the Tenon table was born. £795. ercol.com
TOUCH OF BLUES Something to sing about – Scala braid, £65p/m at James Hare. james-hare.com
Launched over 35 years ago and now resplendent in mustard yellow. Two ovens, cast iron hot and simmer plates and an integral grill. Everhot 60, £5,350. everhot.co.uk
BENCH PRESS A bench works well at the end of a bed, especially if there’s no fixed end. This one, Hanoi, is by contemporary Londonbased furniture maker Blackbird Bespoke. Hanoi bench, £1,200. blackbird-bespoke.com
PHOTOS: © RICARDO LABOUGLE
SMALL BUT MIGHTY
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ALL SQUARED
K ITCHEN K IT
Old Havana Jaruco tiles, £2.80 each, and Lincoln white marble basin, £550, at Claybrook. claybrookstudio.co.uk
SEE IT, LOVE IT, HAVE IT
SHARP FOCUS
Roundabout by Hudson Valley Lighting – tumbling cubes overlapping a cluster of bulbs. £1,120. houseology.com
J’ADIOR I would use this for make-up pencils rather than lowering the tone with biros and HB. Mitzah Cannage pencil box, £250. dior.com
SSSSSSOOOO STYLISH Studio Shamshiri snake and pomegranate rug, £14,500. christopherfarrcloth.com
DARLING GIRL Interior designer Samantha Todhunter worked closely with Collier Webb to create the Martini floor light featuring polished brass and a pink antiqued mirror tray. £3,200. collierwebb.com
PHOTOS: © RICARDO LABOUGLE
1 Soho Home Rosendale tumbler, £10. sohohome.com 2 Freight HHG Pepper mill, £65. freightstore.co.uk
PEEP SHOW
3 The Wood Life Project Rabbit plate, £30. thewoodlifeproject.com 4 Granby Workshop Recycled tableware, from £20. granbyworkshop.co.uk 5 Newgate Clocks Butterfly Wing Triptick, £150. newgateworld.com
FLOORED BY KELLY Kelly Hoppen has teamed up with Hakwood to mark its 40th anniversary with three mixand-match tile designs that reflect her stylish aesthetic. From £275 per sq/m. hakwood.com
Alpaga Crepuscule bar cart by iBride, with three compartments hidden behind decadent fringing, £4,500. lovefrankie.com January 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 83
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THE INSIDER
F O C U S
BOUDOIR BLISS
1 Marble-top lacquered wood cabinetry with brass detail by Devon & Devon, £15,267. devon-devon.com 2 Beata Heuman used her own design, Palm Drop linen, and Dodo Egg light in this his-and-hers dressing room. beataheuman.com 3 In her own dressing room, Noor Charchafchi of Celine Estates concealed a fridge and snack drawer behind doors decorated with Fromental wallcovering. celineestates. com 4 Sims Hilditch created this dressing table within bespoke joinery. Paint by Neptune, curtains by GP & J Baker, carpet by Crucial Trading and shutters by New England Shutter Company. simshilditch.com 5 Elnaz Namaki Studio’s pink shearling Coy chair was inspired by mid-century design. £1,600. elnaznamaki.com
PHOTOS: SIMON BROWN PHOTOGRAPHY
A vanity table or dressing area add an extra special dimension to bedrooms
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THE INSIDER
C A S E
S T U D Y
A ROOM OF ONE’S OWN
Justin Van Breda’s classic Kensington townhouse oozes old-world English charm, finds Sofia Tindall
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1-4: Justin Van Breda emulated the ‘slightly dirty colours of “below stairs” in larger English houses’ 5-6: Van Breda’s colourful Cape Weaver collection 7-9: Justin Van Breda’s furniture designs are the perfect fit for a family home in South Africa
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ustin Van Breda is a true Englishman – at least when it comes to design principles. In his own Kensington townhouse, which he shares with his husband Alastair Matchett, the South African designer was inspired by the ‘slightly dirty colours of “below stairs” in larger English houses’. ‘I didn’t want to have that new house feel,’ he adds. Accordingly, walking through his own home (on Georgian pine boards and parquet herringbone) you’ll find an eclectic mix of materials, colours and curiosity-sparking pieces; like the silver and glass insect perched on the piano. The aim was to create a space to relax and escape from busy everyday life. With a book bursting with international clients clamouring to get their hands on one of his bespoke furniture designs for their own home, it’s no wonder that the designer wanted a more calming sanctuary to retreat to after-hours. ‘We wanted a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere – one that could straddle both a cosy weekday evening with my husband and dogs or an 80-person cocktail party with ease,’ he says. Where better to accommodate them all than in the spectacular dining area? When entertaining, the 12-seater dining table transforms into a centrepiece, festooned with ‘masses of hydrangeas from the garden, twinkling candles and acres of china and silver’. But by the next day, it’s the heart of the home again and a place in which to relax with the dogs at his feet, the space sprawling towards the garden. ‘One of my favourite features is that the garden level is basically one big room,’ he says. The light drawn through the recent clever redesign of the kitchen space enhances sun-bleached colours inspired by light of the Cape, offset against ‘classic English patterns’ and picks out the beauty of his finds: whether it’s a lime octagon cabinet or colourful woven bowl. Though his design may bear all the hallmarks of an English home, it wouldn’t be a true Van Breda creation without some signature whimsical, colourful additions. From far-flung places, he hoards old-school trophies, crocodile hat boxes and an impressive wall piece in the shape of Africa made out of books. ‘I used hints of my African heritage to accessorise the space and bring light in,’ he explains. His tips to do it yourself? ‘A great dining table, beautiful kitchen cabinetry and always add an element of fun.’ A man’s home truly is his castle. n January 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 87
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EAT DRINK ESCAPE
FOOD & TRAVEL A N T A R C T I C
TO THE END OF THE EARTH Despite Attenborough-worthy photo ops in the remote Antarctic, Laura Ivill’s ice adventure came with its own butler
Antarctica offers the ultimate penguin safari
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ome of the world’s most remote and adventurous places are harrowing to reach by land, even today. Take Alaska, the Arctic and the Antarctic – three BOOK IT pristine, magnificent and gloriously wild places that those Silver Cloud’s with wanderlust in their soul can reach on foot, but only next Antarctic adventure with immense effort, determination, expense and hardship. embarks on 16 However, there is a way these wildernesses can be accessed November 2020 in comfort (immense comfort) to the likes of you and me, to 1 December 2020 if at a price. A cruise voyage on the high seas will glide you through glaciers and tantalise your senses, plying you with From £11,970 per person for the finest food and drink, entertainment and education, an all-inclusive as the most spectacular scenery unfolds around you. round trip, with To travel to Antarctica in 2020 has a special significance, hotel, Economy flights (reduced as it is exactly 200 years since the frozen continent was Business Class officially discovered, then a landmass with no indigenous prices available) peoples that belonged entirely to its wildlife – the penguins, and transfers, on-board food seals, birds and whales that can withstand its freezing and beverages. temperatures and biting winds. Today, hardy explorers, such as the British adventurer silversea.com Louis Rudd (who was hauling a sledge across the continent while I was there), still relish this challenge to human endeavour. For others, myself included, it’s good to know we can sail in cosseted luxury and savour every second that privilege brings. Boarding Silversea’s Silver Cloud in Chile for an 11-day cruise to the Antarctic Peninsula via the Falkland Islands, I found a bottle The cruise takes passengers to of champagne was already on ice remote, usually inaccessible places in my stateroom with welcome
snacks prepared by my butler, Prem. This might be an expedition cruise, but it’s an all-butler affair in which he unpacks your luggage for you. I quickly realised my stash of base layers, socks and jumpers had been rather too long in storage, so I did it myself. Then, oh joy, I discovered all laundry was included, so the contents of my suitcase went to be washed, pressed and returned in tissue paper. (It was a novelty to return home with a suitcase full of clean clothes.) Before I wax lyrical about the voyage, let’s address the thorny question of tourism in fragile environments. Firstly, the exorbitant costs of a luxury adventure means this is elite tourism, which some believe brings more money but less people and potential damage to the destination. Next, ensure your tour operator follows the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators’ (iaato.org) good practice, including on fuel emissions standards. Only cruise ships carrying 500 passengers or less are permitted to land passengers ashore in Antarctica, and Silver Cloud carries 200. Silver Cloud also issued us with rubber boots that were scrubbed and disinfected for going ashore, and every passenger was given a red, fleece-lined, spray jacket whose pockets, hoods and Velcro fastenings were examined for twigs or seeds to prevent contamination. Of course, any tourism is invasive to a degree, but if we tread lightly and with respect, we come away with a first-hand appreciation of nature’s gifts – which we can then promote and support. The cruising season takes place in summer, between November and March, and our voyage touched just on the finger of the vast continent, the Antarctic Peninsula, which is closest to South America. The month you choose depends on what you want to see or, to put it another way, what you
PHOTOS: © ADRIAN WLODARCZYK; © RICHARD SIDEY
To prevent contamination of the environment, each passenger is given a red jacket, which is examined for twigs or seeds before going ashore
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FOOD & TRAVEL
want to photograph. Go early, as I did in November, and the white Antarctic snow is abundant, making a pristine backdrop to the hilarious penguins; go later in the season and the snow melts to reveal pebbly rock and stinky pink-red penguin poo. The fluffy hatchlings are adorable around Christmas, though by February there’s more nature in the raw to witness as leopard seals prey on the vulnerable chicks. These once-in-a-lifetime trips naturally attract a raft of photography enthusiasts. When Silver Cloud was converted into an ice-going explorer ship, the onboard casino was replaced with a suite of editing computers, photo printers and a resident photographer for hints, tips and paid tutorials. I’d brought along a Leica Q, which meant all my images were of exceptional quality, and the fixed 28mm lens was a dream for scenery, but it ate memory and I had to post-edit for tighter subjects. Still, Leica was a badge of honour among the photographer gang. Weather plays a huge part in any holiday and it’s no different here in the Southern Ocean. The weather was deemed too risky to sail into Port Stanley, with its Falklands War significance, and sadly I doubt I’ll get another opportunity to visit. If it’s full-on Antarctica you want and hang everything else, it is possible to reach the continent by air and spend, say, a whole week there. For me however, sailing aboard Silver Cloud was more than half the fun and I was up for the challenge of crossing the notorious Drake Passage, the churning body of water that funnels between Chile’s Cape Horn and the South Shetland Islands of Antarctica. I count myself as having sea legs, but 500 miles of pitching and rolling was something else. Silver Cloud deploys stabilisers below the waterline to counter the rolling, but still we heaved, in all senses. The ship became deserted as only the butlers pinballed along the corridors. Each time we dived down nine-metre waves my stomach was left on the ceiling. Thank goodness for room service and wifi! I learned afterwards that one seasoned fellow passenger had come supplied with several Netflix box sets, recording only 47 steps on her Fitbit on the crossing. But it was worth every moment when the heavens smiled on our little ship as we glided to the crescent-shaped Half Moon Island. We hopped into Zodiac RIBs that zipped us around the majestic icebergs, stunningly white and sculptural in the cleanest air imaginable. Jumping ashore, chinstrap penguins acted out scenes from Happy Feet, and a huge grey weddell seal and her pup snuggled on pristine snow. I clocked that the Zodiac that had been ferrying me around was called Cloud Nine. Which just about sums up the grace and ease of a 21st-century cruise to the very end of the earth. n FROM TOP: Photographers are drawn by the photo ops; Silver Cloud; penguins are mates for life; the Lemaire Channel
PHOTOS: © ADRIAN WLODARCZYK; © RICHARD SIDEY
THE SHIP BECAME DESERTED AS ONLY THE BUTLERS PINBALLED ALONG THE CORRIDORS. EACH TIME WE DIVED DOWN NINE-METRE WAVES MY STOMACH WAS LEFT ON THE CEILING
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Skiing in Leysin
THRILLS AND SWISS SPILLS
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he ultimate winter destination, the Vaud Alps/Lake Geneva Region is a breathtaking scene of snow-covered panoramas, unspoilt stretches of land and icy peaks. A two-hour drive from Geneva airport – or a picturesque chug on the mountain railway – the region is Switzerland distilled and packs a serious punch with all that it has to offer. At its heart shimmers a trio of resorts: Villars/Gryon and Les Diablerets, interlinked to create an outstanding snowy playground. The crowning glory is the sparkling Glacier 3000 – the highest point in the canton of Vaud – and a place of pursuits where you’re spoilt for choice. From first-timers to seasoned skiiers, the Vaud Alps hits all the right notes with slopes to suit every ability. With some of the most varied terrain, both a good mix of cruisy blues and reds can be found here coupled with Olympic black runs. Experts should check out Combe d’Audon, one of the
Skicross-training for children with Fanny Smith in Villars
toughest black runs in the region, with a dramatic cliff face rising up on the right. There’s also the Red Run, over eight kilometres long, with an incredible descent of more than 1,700 metres. It’s a powder-hunter’s dream too, with some brilliant off-pistes. The well-rounded resort of Villars is a pleasure to wander around with a relaxed, old-school vibe. It’s great for families with two excellent ski schools to choose between, including well-regarded British-run New Generation. On a linked ski pass is the neighbouring resort of Les Diablerets. With 112 kilometers of spectacular slopes and scenery, this is the region’s epicentre of adventure – and home to Glacier 3000.
PHOTOS: © D.CARLIER / DAVIDCARLIERPHOTOGRAPHY.COM; © SWITZERLAND TOURISM/LORENZ RICHARD; © OTV; © STUDIO PATRICK JANTET
For those seeking winter fun, the less populated Vaud Alps/Lake Geneva region has pleasures galore. Harriet Compston reports
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PHOTOS: © D.CARLIER / DAVIDCARLIERPHOTOGRAPHY.COM; © SWITZERLAND TOURISM/LORENZ RICHARD; © OTV; © STUDIO PATRICK JANTET
But it’s not just about skiing. The Vaud Alps is a hotspot of winter sports with several recordbreaking activities. One of the most thrilling ways to enjoy the astonishing vistas is by braving the 170m-long Peak Walk, the first and only suspension bridge linking two summits, on Glacier 3000. Then there’s the fun-filled 7km-long sledge run at Les Diablerets, snowtubing in Leysin and the adrenalinpumping Alpine Coaster on Glacier 3000. The snowy fun continues into the evening with the magic of skiing and tobogganing at night on illuminated slopes. Upsize your wellbeing even further off the slopes. The Vaud Alps has an impressive line-up of spas, with plenty of chances for long soaks and pampering. Zone out in the thermal spring at Lavey-les-Bains – the hottest in Switzerland – while gazing out at the staggering mountain views. Or take advantage of the hammam, snow grotto and colour therapy room. Nearby, Les Bains de Villars has been recently renovated, and now sports a blissful gamut of treatments and pools. The hotels also house some lovely spas, with Chalet Royalp Hotel & Spa in Villars and the Hotel Le Grand Chalet in Leysin, with its amazing spa Jacuzzi, leading the charge. Alongside such a wide offering come some brilliant events. The Youth Olympic Games 2020 is being held in the city of Lausanne and the Vaud slopes will be hosting the alpine
Skiing in Villars
skiing, freestyle skiing, snowboarding and ski mountaineering competitions. The International Hot Air Balloon Festival in Château-d’Oex is a big thing, too, and a reminder of the triumphant take-off of Brian Jones and Bertrand Piccard in their successful uninterrupted circumnavigation of the world on board a hot air balloon. Now in its 41st year, the festival sees a colourful display of nearly 100 hot balloons taking to the skies. The food and drink is a huge draw. In fact, the Vaud Alps is just as much about eating as it is skiing. Set in charming wood-clad Alpine restaurants, complete with a lovely welcome and a roaring fire, top off a great day’s skiing with a traditional Swiss cheese fondue, accompanied by a delicious nip of locallybrewed kirsch. Savour first-class wine, too, made locally in the many surrounding vineyards – the Chasselas, Pinot Noir and Gamay wines are particularly delicious. And, of course, a steaming hot chocolate never goes amiss. Top spots include the homely CaféRestaurant l’Etable, set in beautifully transformed stables, and Restaurant du Lac des Chavonnes, which serves hearty local dishes beside a pretty lake. Brunch on Glacier 3000 is a must-do, too. Whatever you do in the Vaud Alps, it’s clear that there’s something exceptional for everyone – and that’s a fact which is pretty hard to beat. For more information, visit lake-geneva-region.ch.
Villars-sur-Ollon in winter
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TEN REASONS TO HIT THE SLOPES IN THE VAUD ALPS/LAKE GENEVA REGION
Peak Walk by Tissot on Glacier 3000
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Brave the Peak Walk
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Hop aboard the Snow Bus
One of the best ways to explore Glacier 3000, sit back and relax on this specially-designed snow cat. With room for up to 20 people, it’s ideal for both young and old plus a great excuse to put your feet up.
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PHOTOS: © MIKE RABENSTEINER; © GLACIER 3000; © J.CRESPO; © MATTHIAS LEHMANN, VISUALPS.CH
Go for a walk you’ll never forget on the first and only suspension bridge to connect two mountain peaks. Set on Glacier 3000, don’t look down, just enjoy the awe-inspiring views of the Matterhorn, Mont Blanc and Jungfrau.
Get slope ready at The Nordic Centre
Practical, centrally located and with free entry for all, The Nordic Centre at Col des Mosses-La Lécherette is an essential stopover for cross-country skiers, with a free cloakroom and waxing room to get your equipment ready before setting out in skating or classic mode.
The Tobogganing Park in Leysin
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Snowtube in Leysin
Created by Silvio Giobellina – Olympic medal winner and bobsleigh champion – the thrilling snowtubing slopes of the Tobogganing Park are screamingly good fun. Even more so when you try looping – a 360-degree turn before landing on a big air bag.
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Slide in the Fun Park
Swap your skis for a plastic plate and whizz down the slope at the lower end of the Ice Express chairlift on Glacier 3000. It’s brilliant for non-skiers, sledding fans and families and, as an added bonus, free of charge.
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Cross-country skiing at Col des Mosses-La Lécherette
Q&A FANNY SMITH, Ski Cross World Champion and Olympic Medallist
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Learn to ski
With over 534km of slopes in the Lake Geneva Region, you are spoiled for choice. There are dedicated areas for beginners to practise, and the kids’ snow gardens are great for young snowbunnies’ first slide in the snow.
PHOTOS: © MIKE RABENSTEINER; © GLACIER 3000; © J.CRESPO; © MATTHIAS LEHMANN, VISUALPS.CH
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Hurtle down an extreme toboggan run
Les Diablerets hits all the high notes for its fantastic tobogganing, too, with the canton of Vaud’s longest toboggan run (seven kilometres) found here. To up the adrenalin, blast down in the dark – the run is open on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights.
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Give fat biking a go
Be on trend and try Europe’s first dedicated fat bike slope in Villars. A mountain bike with fat tyres specially adapted to difficult terrain,
Night sledging in Les Diablerets
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brace yourself for an exhilarating 600m of downhill drop and 4,000m of snowy riding.
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Tackle one of the toughest black runs in the region
Glacier 3000 has the highest slopes in the Vaud Alps. Challenge yourself with the Combe d’Audon, one of the toughest black runs in the region. Or plump for the Red Run, over eight kilometres long, with an extraordinary descent of more than 1,700m.
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Night ski in Les Diablerets
Up the ante after sunset and zip up on the new Diablerets Express to the illuminated Willy Favre slope (recently revamped to Olympic standard) in Les Diablerets. As you wend your way down, take in the twinkling lights of the villages below.
In what way are you involved in the Youth Olympic Games 2020? I feel very fortunate that I have made a career out of doing what I love and it has always been really important to me to try and inspire the next generation of athletes. It is so special that the ski cross, my discipline, is to be held in my village and a huge honour that the track has been named after me. What do you love about the canton of Vaud? The panoramic view of the mountains. It’s also a great place to ski – there is plenty of variety and a good-sized area connecting several resorts. The area is close to Lake Geneva and Geneva so it’s really accessible but still retains its village feel – charming and traditional. Favourite place to ski in the canton of Vaud? Villars, because it is my home mountain and so it has my heart. I love the feeling I get when I am coming home, driving back up the mountain after being away. I have skied this area all my life so I know it like the back of my hand. Must-do winter activities in the canton of Vaud? Of course, skiing is the obvious answer but there are many other options. My father runs a paragliding company so people can fly in the mountains. There is also one of Switzerland’s longest sledge runs in Les Diablerets. We have ice skating in Villars, plus the chance to ride fat bikes. At the end of the day, I love to recover in the amazing new spa in Villars which has a wonderful view.
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Tell us about growing up in the canton of Vaud? I grew up in Villars and still live here. I have spent my whole life skiing on this mountain. I started to ski when I was two and half years old. I used to chase my older brother on my skis – I am sure that is where my racing spirit began.
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SLEEP, SKI, EAT The best hotels and restaurants on the slopes
Chalet Royalp Hôtel & Spa
Hotel Le Grand Chalet LEYSIN
This charming, family-run 19th-century chalet, set in a quiet area near the forest, is a short hop from Leysin’s ski slopes. The cosy rooms are brilliantly thought out with south-facing balconies. La Ferme à Fredy serves top-notch traditional regional specialities alongside international fare. The snug ‘carnotzet’ is lovely for wine-tasting beforehand or curl up beside the open log fire in the saloon bar Le Karibou. Yoga kick starts the day. Soothe any aching muscles in the spa Jacuzzi, with jaw-dropping views over the mountains. grand-chalet.ch
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PHOTOS: © OTV/LAURENT RYSER; © DANIEL G.-OT VILLARS; © OTV/LAURENT RYSER
VILLARS
One of the Leading Hotels of the World, this classic Alpine chalet-style hotel is a picture of rustic-chic. Bed down in one of the deeply restful 63 beautiful bedrooms (or book a private residence). The spa is terrific with exquisite treatments by Aromatherapy Associates. Chef Alain Montigny has conjured up excellent food. Choose between the likes of wood-fired raclette at Le Grizzly or elegant farm-tofork dishes at Le Jardin Des Alps. Afterwards, relax with a cocktail in Le Bear’s Bar, listening to live music. chaletroyalp.com
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DON’T MISS LUNCH AT LE KUKLOS
La Maison de Montagne de Bretaye OLLON
Founded by General Guisan in 1932 for mountain troops and their families, the house ethos is all about sharing and making the mountain ‘accessible’ for all. Reached by the tiny mountain train, it’s geared towards groups, schools and families. Accommodating up to 130 people, choose from a variety of accommodation. After a day hammering down the slopes, flop on the sun-bathed terrace with staggering views of Mont Blanc. Finish the day in The Crazy Moose, tucking into regional, seasonal cuisine with a Québécoise flair. mmbretaye.ch
Le Kuklos is so much more than your usual mountain restaurant, as it rotates 360 degrees every hour and a half. Whether you’re seated on the terrace or behind the huge glass walls, you can enjoy a breathtaking panorama of the Alps, Lake Geneva, the Vaudois Riviera, the Jura mountain range and the Rhône valley, without ever leaving your seat. Open every day from December to April and June to October, it is easy to get to via the cable car running from the centre of Leysin to the Berneuse.
REFUGE OF SOLALEX
PHOTOS: © OTV/LAURENT RYSER; © DANIEL G.-OT VILLARS; © OTV/LAURENT RYSER
Café-Restaurant L’Etable GRYON
Restaurant du Lac des Chavonnes
The praise never stops for this superb restaurant. Accessible from the ski slopes, L’Etable is aptly named with guests seated in beautifully transformed stables. Donkeys Sancho and Storm still have a home though and will keep you company from their own stable. Homemade dishes, made using fresh local produce, are the order of the day. Tuck into cassolette of mushrooms on a small nest of rösti, ham roasted with honey, lasagne of crayfish and asparagus and, of course, plenty of gooey fondue. Go on Sunday for pork roast brooch stuffed with vaudois sausage. etable-gryon.ch
With an idyllic spot beside a glistening mountain lake, a short hike or ski from the Bretaye mountain rail station, this farmhouse-style restaurant is picture perfect. With a typically cosy Swiss feel, it serves hearty local dishes such as vol-auvent of wild mushrooms with morels and cream of thyme, rösti montagnards and rösti foie gras and fillet of smoked trout (fished from the lake). For those wanting to soak up the serene scene longer, stay the night in one of the pretty woodpanelled bedrooms. chavonnes.ch
VILLARS
In an enchanting mountain pasture, just a few miles from Gryon and Villars, the Refuge of Solalex offers traditional terroir dishes in a folk music-filled Alpine setting. Settle down beside the roaring fire and tuck into its famous raclette cooked over the wood fire, baked Vacherin Mont-d or tomato fondue. There’s also home-made soups, smoked meats and the roast beef is excellent. Some of the region’s best wine can be found here, too. refuge-solalex.ch
HOW TO EAT FONDUE LIKE THE SWISS... 1 Don’t waste la religieuse, or the nun, the crusty part of the fondue at the bottom of the pot. 2 Avoid dipping while someone else’s fork is immersed. 3 Don’t drop your bread – tradition has it that you pay for the whole meal. 4 Never double-dip. 5 Drink a shot of kirsch before, during or after your meal to help digest the cheese. January 2020
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SPORTING CALENDAR Plan your Swiss sojourn accordingly
Youth Olympic Games 9–22 JANUARY 2020
INTERNATIONAL SLED DOG RACE 29 Feb to 1 March 2020 Mixing sprinting and skijoring, watch mushers and their teams of dogs stride out across the splendid landscape of Les Mosses-La Lécherette. aigle-leysin-lesmosses.ch
International Hot Air Balloon festival 25 JANUARY TO 02 FEBRUARY 2020
31 DECEMBER 2019
The oldest bike race on snow, this legendary event in Villars has been taking place on 31 December for 30 years. The mission: ride a bike down snow-covered ski slopes from the top of Roc d’Orsay, to the centre of Villars. And it’s not about being the quickest, it’s about having as much fun as possible. To celebrate this year’s jubilee, there’s going to be awards for the best three costumes. lake-geneva-region.ch
SWICA NORDIC DAY 18 January 2020 One for beginners. Try your hand – or improve your skills – with this crosscountry skiing introductory course on the slopes of La Thomassette in Le Brassus. myvalleedejoux.ch 50TH MARA 29 February to 1 March 2020 Fabulous open crosscountry skiing event in the unspoilt scenery of the Nordic trails in the Les Rasses winter resort. ski-mara.ch
From the Vaud Alps to the Jura via Lausanne, the mountains will see an overflow of talent this season as international athletes, aged 15 to 18, descend on the canton of Vaud for the Youth Olympic Games. Lausanne, also known as the ‘Olympic Capital’, has been the home of the modern Olympic Movement for more than 100 years – and, today, more than 50 big sporting organisations call this region home. Must-see races include alpine skiing in Les Diablerets and ski mountaineering, which will be making its debut in the Olympic Games. lausanne2020.sport
St-Sylvestre Grand Prix
BEST OF THE REST
Set in the tiny village of Château-d’Oex, this hot air balloon festival is an extravaganza of all-out fun. Showcasing nearly 100 hot air balloons of different shapes and sizes, enjoy a colourful array of races, air displays and demonstrations. You can even take to the skies yourself with balloon rides available. Don’t miss the night-time show when, after dark, 20 illuminated balloons and paragliders fly in sync to music. There’s a rich balloon history here, too – in 1999, Bertrand Piccard and Brian Jones set off from Château-d’Oex for the first tour of the world in a hot air balloon. chateau-doex.ch
DIABLERETS 3D 29 Feb to 1 March 2020 Two-day skiing event with a vertical race and longdistance race taking place in the stunning setting of Les Diablerets. diablerets3d.ch SWISS BIATHLON CUP KIDS AND CHALLENGER 7–8 March 2020 Combining cross-country skiing with shooting, this enthralling competition on the Les Mosses plateau is open to children and young adults. aigle-leysin-lesmosses.ch
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C&TH PARTNERSHIP
Q&A WITH BRIAN JONES The record-breaking aeronaut co-piloted the first successful uninterrupted circumnavigation of the world by hot air balloon In 1999, why did you start your roundthe-world balloon journey from Châteaud’Oex? Firstly, it has been a major site of ballooning activity for many years, so much of the needed infrastructure and competencies were readily available and, of course, there were no issues with language. Secondly, our sponsor was Breitling and it was clearly advantageous for them to base our efforts in Switzerland. Most memorable moments of the take-off? The tremendous enthusiasm of the many people who turned out to see us depart. The cheers, church bells and fire truck siren even drowned out the sound of multiple camerabearing helicopters buzzing around us. What attracted you to hot-air ballooning? It is a gentle and serene way to fly, coupled with the challenge of every flight being unsure of where you might land and the circumstances you might encounter. Each flight is a magical mystery tour. What do you enjoy most about the International Balloon Festival? Quite simply, flying in the mountains is spectacular. It is challenging, exhilarating and often forces you to draw on all of your skills to stay safe and land where you can be retrieved easily by your crew. The microweather conditions can be so varied that you can either fly for many miles, possible beyond the country’s borders, or use the winds to try to land back on the precise spot from where you launched after a couple of hours flight. It is great fun. What do you love about the canton of Vaud? You can’t fail to be moved by the beauty of the region. The people are extremely friendly but at the same time elegantly reserved. The standard of living seems to me to be ideal. One could never be bored in this canton, regardless of the time of year. The canton also has some of the world’s best hotels and restaurants.
Brian Jones co-piloted the world’s first global circumnavigation
Activities not to be missed in the canton of Vaud during winter? The balloon festival, the skiing and, when possible, the wonderful winter sun on the snow-covered mountains enjoyed by walking or just sitting in a grand position with a glass of something. Future plans? I am honorary president of the Swiss charity Handiflight and very interested in supporting flying for the disabled. We are currently using a specially adapted balloon to enable a disabled person to train to become a pilot. For more information, visit lake-geneva-region.ch n
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FOOD & TRAVEL Just four hours from Gatwick, Tenerife promises easy winter sun. Stylish Royal Hideaway Corales is the perfect stop-off
W I N T E R
S U N
BIRDS OF A FEATHER
In search of a Vitamin D hit, Lynn Barber flew to the Canaries
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bad dose of January blues had me thinking what I need, what I really, really need, is some sun and swimming. But I couldn’t afford to go to the Caribbean, so where could I get them closer to home? A friend suggested Tenerife, and I wrinkled my nose because I thought of it as all drunken hen parties but she said, no, it wasn’t ALL like that, there were plenty of quieter beaches and also whale-watching and the highest mountain in Spain, if I suddenly felt like mountaineering. Of course I didn’t feel like mountaineering, but I did prick up my ears when she told me about brand new hotel, the Royal Hideaway Corales resort, which has two fabulous pools and gorgeous rooms overlooking the sea. Just what the doctor ordered, so I whisked myself off for a long weekend. I was a bit disconcerted to find the hotel billed as ‘adults only’, which immediately
made me think of swingers’ conventions, but anyway it was fine, though the presence of a large whirlpool tub on my terrace and a free-standing egg-shaped bath in the middle of my room did give me pause. The breakfast buffet, served overlooking the garden swimming pool, was simply the best I have ever eaten. I am a connoisseur of eggs Benedict and I’d never had one as good as this before, but there were also mountains of fresh fruit, and all those health foods favoured by the young, and Cava for those who fancied Buck’s Fizz. After stuffing myself for two hours I toddled down to the wellness centre thinking I should at least consider an Ayurvedic massage, but just as I arrived a woman walked straight into a plate glass window and knocked herself out, so I thought I’d give wellness a miss. Instead, I walked down to the nearby fishing village, La Caleta, then back to the hotel to swim in the rooftop pool. I spent a blissful afternoon, swimming and sunbathing, and went to sleep happily knowing I would spend the next day doing exactly the same. And then – boo hoo – back to Gatwick, mission accomplished. Double from €240, room only. barcelo.com n
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HEALING WATERS For centuries the island of Lošinj’s healing properties have remained Croatia’s best-kept secret
Stunning Croatian sunsets – and world-class wellness facilities at Bellevue Spa Clinic
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nchored between Istria and Dalmatia, little-known Lošinj has long been known as ‘the Island of Vitality’; on the tranquil shores of Čikat Bay, the embodiment of this deserved reputation can be found at the heart of chic Hotel Bellevue. On entering Bellevue Spa Clinic you’re met with a serene vision of gleaming terrazzo floors and bright, translucent onyx partitions, illuminating this most luxurious of settings. The latest science-smart treatments and state-of-the-art facilities are all on the menu, lending Bellevue Spa Clinic a reputation among the world’s best wellness retreats. At the medi spa you’ll find all of the most recent and ground-breaking non-invasive procedures. How about a session of cryotherapy to accelerate weight loss and promote collagen production? Or Ultherapy to lift and tighten the skin on
the neck and décolletage? A team of expert professionals – aestheticians, doctors and dermatologists – are all in-house to deliver the most advanced results, and the clinic’s DNA and body composition analysis fine tunes antiageing treatments to your genetics. French podiatrist Bastien Gonzalez’ famed PEDI:MANI:CURE Studio rejuvenates feet and hands, while a full medical ‘MOT’ is on offer in the Marine Medical Centre and ailments like sleeping disorders and chronic pain can be treated by a host of leading physicians, therapists and kinesiologists. Bellevue Spa Clinic is also equally well-suited to those seeking a therapeutic or detox spa stay. Overlooking the crystal-clear waters of the Adriatic Sea, the open-air spa garden comes complete with a sauna, hot tub and plunge pool. Fringed by a centennial pine forest, and home to over 1,200 aromatic healing herbs, the island of Lošinj benefits from the sea streams of Istria, Kvarner and Dalmatia and is blessed with more than 2,600 hours of sunshine every year. With Hotel Bellevue open all-year round thanks to Lošinj’s uniquely mild micro-climate, cutting-edge treatments at Bellevue Spa Clinic, and an exceptional range of outdoor activities: Croatia’s Island of Vitality is the place to supercharge your health. BOOK IT: Seven-night weight loss package from £2,002 per person. For more information and spa programmes, visit losinj-hotels.com
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SKI FOR YOUR SUPPER There’s more to Courmayeur Mont Blanc than its world-class pistes – it is a haven for gourmands too
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ourmayeur Mont Blanc is situated on the Italian side of Mont Blanc (the sunnier side!) and is a traditional yet sophisticated resort full of history and charm, surrounded by spectacular scenery. The centre of the village is car-free offering superb shopping, world-class restaurants and bars, a fantastic choice of accommodation for all budgets and a fabulous après-ski scene. Discover Italy at its peak in Courmayeur Mont Blanc: a unique combination of fine food, culture, adventurous sporting activities, sophisticated relaxation and prime shopping in an incomparable Mont Blanc setting.
SUPERB SKIING Courmayeur Mont Blanc is a dream destination for any mountain enthusiast and a much-loved winter sports destination, with excellent skiing for all abilities. There is superb heliskiing and off-piste opportunities, as well as joy skating, fat biking, hiking, snow-shoeing, climbing and cycling. Not only does the resort benefit from spectacular scenery, with 14 4,000m-plus mountain peaks visible, it is home to the new Skyway Monte Bianco, enabling a faster connection to the resort of Chamonix, as well as access to the world’s longest lift-served run, the Vallée Blanche.
FROM TOP: The pistes of Courmayeur; fine dining and Val d’Aosta cuisine are on offer slope-side
World-class dining options abound in Courmayeur Mont Blanc helping the resort to earn quite a reputation among foodies. Highlights include the hearty, local Val d’Aosta cuisine, delicious local Mont Blanc wines, visiting celebrity chefs and high-profile food events such as Mountain Gourmet Ski Experience, which is held every March and has attracted acclaimed chefs including Heston Blumenthal, a Courmayeur Mont Blanc regular.
PHOTOS: © MATTIAS FREDERIKSSON
LOCAL FOOD
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PROMOTION
The ‘cremayeurentze’ cuisine takes simple mountain ingredients and transforms them into a kaleidoscope of flavours. Try the local dishes at the region’s many restaurants. There is abundant local produce: Fontina, Blue d’Aoste, Chevrot du Mont Blanc and barossa cheeses, artisan yoghurt, and game; meat sauces, polenta and cheese, sformato di patate (potato terrine), soups and cold cuts. The restaurants in Courmayeur remain faithful to their tradition but often add a contemporary touch. Dishes include antipasto of local produce, such as Jambon de Bosses DOP (a type of prosciutto) or the excellent Lardo di Arnad (cured pork), which may be followed by seuppe (bread and cheese soup) or the many variations of polenta such as concia (with cheese) or carbonade (beef and red wine). Try one of the many DOC wines produced in the region with your meal and round it off with a glass of local grappa or génépy, which is similar to absinthe. If you’re with friends try a caffè Valdostano, the local way of making coffee served in a wooden cup called a grolla. To make sure you’re getting the real thing, look for the hotels, restaurants and shops carrying the ‘Saveurs du Val d’Aoste’ brand.
FINE DINING Wherever they are, on the ski slopes or in the centre of town, Courmayeur Mont Blanc’s restaurants are internationally renowned for their excellence. Courmayeur Mont Blanc’s typical Italian cuisine is almost as impressive as Mont Blanc itself: the very best of it is to be found
FROM TOP: Rustic Il Ristorante Gran Baita; Mont Blanc’s gourmet cheeses; soak in the majestic beauty of the mountains by the fireside
in the gourmet restaurants, in the old town centre or in the side valleys and surrounding villages. Their proprietors’ passion for good food, conviviality and high-quality local food is one of the town’s greatest assets. Even up in the mountains and on the ski slopes you can find superb cuisine: with 18 restaurants, bars and refuges in the skiing area alone. The thriving food scene is one of the reasons Heston Blumenthal comes back to Courmayeur Mont Blanc every year for a holiday and for the pleasures of the local cuisine. Try the sumptuous Courmayeur panino made with strictly local ingredients: bread baked in a wood oven, Jambon de Bosses and Fontina cheese, all Valle d’Aosta DOP products. If you want something really special in winter, head for one of the many risto-chalets for a romantic after-dark dinner in the mountains. To get there, take the Courmayeur Cable Car, which stays open until midnight on these special nights, or jump aboard a snowmobile.
BEST OF THE ALPS
PHOTOS: © MATTIAS FREDERIKSSON
Courmayeur Mont Blanc has just been announced a ‘Best of the Alps’ destination in prestigious award circuit which, for more than 25 years, has been awarded to the most internationally renowned and exclusive ski resorts of the Alps, and embodies the highest quality of tourism. Courmayeur Mont Blanc has been selected for the authenticity and uniqueness of its surroundings, as well as, for its commitment to sustainability and respect of nature. Each resort, included in the award circuit, distinguishes itself by the quality and efficiency of its infrastructures and services, its beautiful scenery, and, above all, its utmost respect of the cultural heritage and natural environment. For more information about Courmayeur Mont Blanc visit: courmayeurmontblanc.it
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SPA
COME ON IN, THE WATER’S LOVELY
Feeling a teensy toxic, post festivities? At these natural mineral water spas you’re cleansed inside and out, says Adriaane Pielou
▲ NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Vidago Palace, Vidago
Four natural springs emerge from the granite that lies under the woods and park-like grounds surrounding this architectural marvel, providing one of the world’s rare sources of naturally carbonated water (Ruisui, in Taiwan, is another). Exceptional alkalinity is what makes this water so effective at improving digestion and cleansing the liver and kidneys. The 70-room Vidago Palace, deep in the countryside, an hour from
Porto was built in 1910 for Portugal’s Carlos I as a showcase for Portuguese spa culture. Now beautifully restored, it provides an extravagantly glamorous setting in which to drink and loll in the water. The first hole of the 18-hole golf course, laid out in 1936, lies yards from the entrance, making the hotel a useful destination for couples where one half doesn’t want to spend their entire weekend on a massage bed or wandering through the gardens. Although the restaurant feels a bit sterile, the food, local wines, and exquisitely furnished room more than compensate. BOOK IT: Elegant Resorts offers three nights B&B, including flights and transfers, from £935pp. elegantresorts.co.uk
▲ LAKE GENEVA, FRANCE
Hôtel Royal Evian, Neuvecelle
Sometimes it’s hard to believe all those billions of bottles of Evian really and truly come from natural sources. Then you get to Evian, where eight million bottles a day get filled. When you see the miles of protected empty open land, 3,000 ft above Lake Geneva, through which rainwater and snow spend about 15 years seeping through rock, absorbing various minerals, before emerging at springs, the process becomes credible. If not admirable all that single-use plastic. The town of Evian became the first spa resort in France in the late-18th century, after the discovery of the effectiveness of the water on kidney stones, in particular. Today, with its funicular, Byzantine casino, grand villas and museums, the lakeside town retains an old-world grandeur. Above the town, overlooking Lake Geneva, so does the Hotel Royal Evian. Opened in 1909, it’s kept a similarly old-school vibe, with its serene, lightfilled spa and springwater pools, spectacular Michelin-starred food and large, uncluttered rooms. Almost best of all are the surrounding gardens and the fragrant, quite magical pinewood-built La Grange au Lac concert hall in the woods opposite. Super civilised, and deliciously restful for a restorative weekend. BOOK IT: Doubles from £255. evianresort.com
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FOOD & TRAVEL
▲ JAMAICA
Jamaica Inn, Ocho Rios
Bizarrely, despite having some of the best natural fresh water and thermal springs on the planet, Jamaica has yet to make the most of its good fortune. Visitors have been sighing over this neglect for centuries, ever since Sir Hans Sloane, founder of the British Museum, wrote a book about his travels in 1707. Even now, visitors tend to come across the pools and hot springs by luck, if at all. The few guesthouses near the sources of the most potent sources are hardly tempting, but the glamorous old 55-room Jamaica Inn – still redolent of the 1950s, when Marilyn Monroe and Arthur Miller honeymooned there, Churchill visited often and Noël Coward and Ian Fleming propped up the bar – couldn’t be more inviting. The pool is filled with seawater but the spa and hotel source theirs from springs in the Blue Mountains. From here, you can explore the Blue Lagoon, where you can feel the cool mineral water meeting the warm Caribbean sea, and Milk River Bath, which is so radioactive that despite relieving pain from rheumatism, arthritis and sciatica, immersion has to be kept to 20 minutes max. BOOK IT: Carrier offers seven nights, including transfers and flights, from £2,860. carrier.co.uk
▲ SLOVENIA
Grand Hotel Sava Superior, Rogaška Slatina
Scattered with thermal spring areas and sanatorium-type hotels where citizens are still – as in Communist days – sent by the government for free preventative or rehab spa stays, much of middle and eastern Europe remains a source of inexpensive spa stays. In the hills of rural Slovenia, the Grand Hotel Sava’s pools are piped with the exceptionally magnesium-rich waters that have made Rogaška Slatina a place of pilgrimage for centuries for people with chronically aching joints and degenerative bone problems such as osteoporosis. While the 232-room hotel doesn’t exactly
have an intimate vibe, the entire place is immaculate, with a cheerfully down-toearth atmosphere and practical approach, vigorously administered massages, good treatments for anyone in need of physical rehab (sports injuries, say), and lovely hiking in the surrounding hills. BOOK IT: Doubles from £130. rogaska.si n
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HOLLAND’S HIDDEN GEMS From historic cities to fine art, foodie hotspots to awe-inspiring countryside castles, Holland offers the best of both worlds
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isit one of Holland’s Golden Age cities, such as Leiden, The Hague, Dordrecht or Delft, to experience the ambience of the 17th century. Leiden is one of most iconic cities from the Dutch Golden Age. Here you can still encounter the city as it was during that prosperous era. Stroll through the city where Rembrandt was born and first studied art. His works can be viewed at the recently re-opened Museum De Lakenhal. A gentle canal cruise takes you past the location where Rembrandt was born and directly opposite stands a replica of his family’s mill. Other historic sites in the city include De Hortus, a botanical garden established in the 16th century, and the first location in Holland to cultivate the tulip. A short distance from Leiden, The Hague, Holland’s royal city by the sea, offers the best of both worlds with seaside activities and the attractions of a bustling modern city. Take a stroll down tree-lined avenues and support local independent shops, from antique and design shops to high-end retailers. For art lovers this city really has so much to offer. The Mauritshuis is a compact gem of a museum filled with 17th-century art and includes masterpieces such as Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring, Fabritius’s The Goldfinch and Rembrandt’s final self-portrait. A museum dedicated to the graphic artist M.C.
FROM TOP: The Hague has both the beach and the hustle and bustle of a modern city; historic Leiden; Vermeer’s The Girl with a Pearl Earring
Escher can be found in the city centre. Close by is the Kunstmuseum, which holds a collection of modern art, including the largest collection of Mondrian and De Stijl. The Hague is also famous for its connections with Indonesia, in particular culinary influences and dedicated restaurants that serve ‘rijsttafel’ (ricetable), a wide variety of small plates of spicy fish, meat and vegetarian dishes served with multiple rice accompaniments, which make up a delicious and fragrant meal. The freshest fish and seafood
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can be found at harbourside restaurants at Scheveningen, the seaside resort of The Hague. But there’s more to Holland than its famous cities. In the countryside, the country counts over 700 castles and historic country estates just waiting to be explored. In Holland, from 1610, the mercantile class, created a new society in which science and the arts flourished, and the outdoors took on unimaginably beautiful forms. Merchants bought land surrounding Amsterdam and other Dutch cities. The money earned from overseas trading activities was converted into quietly profitable land ownership. Together they also financed the conversion of poor heathland to fertile land and pumped many great lakes dry. The Beemsterpolder, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the best-known example of this. This land was used for the construction of majestic country estates. There, in the midst of extensive formal gardens, a rectangular country house was usually built, with similarities
FROM TOP: Soestdijk Palace; view Escher artworks in The Hague; everyone from Brigitte Bardot to Roger Moore has stayed at Castle De Haar
between their front and back façades and often were replicas of their city canal houses. The banks of waterways and lakes were used as construction locations for country estates. Even today, the beautiful river Vecht, which flows from the city of Utrecht to Muiden near Amsterdam, has numerous country estates dating back to this era. The nobility was not entirely absent from Holland. The Oranges held administrative positions and showed their power and prestige to foreigners for example at the Paleis het Loo and (later) Paleis Soestdijk. Both palaces initially served as hunting lodges.The beautiful garden at Het Loo is an example of how many gardens in Holland would have looked in the 17th and 18th centuries, while you’re waiting for it’s reopening in 2021 try to visit Stable Square during one of its open weeks. Tsar Peter the Great stayed in Holland for a long period to study shipbuilding. He was impressed by the estates along the river Vecht. When he left for St. Petersburg, he took Dutch gardeners with him to create Dutch gardens back home. At Paleis Het Loo in Apeldoorn there was a constant throng of famous guests, for example the composer Franz Liszt. Castle De Haar received famous visitors over the years. The marriage of Baron Étienne van Zuylen van Nyevelt and French Baroness Hélène de Rothschild caused members of the international jet set to visit this now museum castle. The Parisian family welcomed their guests here during August, including Brigitte Bardot, Yves Saint Laurent, Coco Chanel, Maria Callas, Roger Moore, Joan Collins... There’s a reason that the great and the good have always flocked to Holland. Discover it for yourself at: holland.com/hiddengems
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THIS MON TH...
COTSWOLDS CHEER
Is the relentless sobriety of January boosting your blues? A weekend at the Cotswolds Distillery ticks all boxes for a tipsy but cheerful excursion, with masterclasses and a distillery tour topped off by a tot of its legendary ginger gin. Bottoms up. cotswoldsdistillery.com
BUY A more sustainable solution to your Nespresso pods with Capsulier. £76. capsulier.com
N E W S
GASTRO GOSSIP
Champagne and chicken feet. By Sofia Tindall
ECO EATERY Sustainability means serious business these days, and Adam Handling’s new zero-waste restaurant Ugly Butterfly on the King’s Road is the latest to jump on the wagon. On the menu you’ll find champagne and, slightly more controversially – chicken feet (don’t knock it until you’ve tried). If it’s good enough for SW3 it’s good enough for us. uglybutterfly.co.uk
TEA TALK
COOK Stress-free dinners, thanks to Diana Henry. £25, Octopus
TABLE TAKEOVERS
Charlotte Street Hotel’s guest chef series is showcasing up-and-coming international chefs. Keep an eye out for Green Kitchen Stories in January – guaranteed to make food fun again in the dreaded diet months. firmdalehotels.com
IN THE SLOW LANE It’s about time for some rest, relaxation and fresh food to refuel. The Riverside Inn has gotten a steady pace of life down to a fine art, scooping a ‘slow food’ award (with the help of chef Andy Link) in the process – the only thing that you should rush to do is make a reservation. riversideaymestrey.co.uk
PHOTOS: © TIM GREEN
SIP On a naturally refreshing No.1 Lemon Verbena Water – if you still have a fuzzy head from Christmas. £29.40 for 12. no1botanicals. com
Why should wine tastings have all the fun? Having amassed a cult following, JING Tea is opening its first store on London’s St Christopher’s Place, where you can get into tea sampling with one of its sensory ‘tea flight’ tastings. 100 per cent hangover-free. jingtea.com
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FOOD & TRAVEL
R E C I P E
FRIDAY FISH NIGHT
FOODIE TA L ES
Josh Niland updates a Seventies staple
RECIPE EXTRACTED FROM THE WHOLE FISH COOKBOOK: NEW WAYS TO COOK, EAT AND THINK BY JOSH NILAND (HARDIE GRANT. £25) PHOTOS BY ROB PALMER
G
rowing up, chicken Kiev was always seen as a fancy dinner option and not eaten very often. Thinking about how we could apply this technique to a fish, we decided on quite possibly Australia’s best table fish – the King George whiting. At the restaurant we have the ability to source transglutimate, which helps bind proteins together, so that we can remove all the bones and cartilage and create a seamless finish that holds the butter inside the fish. For a domestic-style recipe, the dish has been held together with toothpicks while frying. Taste and adjust the butter before filling and increase or decrease the garlic to suit your preferences.
METHOD
KGW KIEV INGREDIENTS SERVES FOUR » 4 boneless butterflied King George whiting or other whiting » Plain (all-purpose) flour » 4 eggs, lightly whisked » 180g white panko breadcrumb » 2 litres cottonseed or sunflower oil, for deep-frying » Lemon halves and green salad leaves, to serve GARLIC BUTTER » 60g salted butter, softened » 1 tablespoon flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, finely chopped » 1 tablespoon chives, finely chopped » 2 garlic cloves, grated preferably on a microplane
For the garlic butter, stir all the ingredients together, then place on a piece of plastic wrap and roll into a long log, 1cm wide. Freeze until firm, then cut into four even barrels. Lay the fish out in front of you with the heads away from you. Position the frozen garlic butter in the centre of the fish, then pull up the belly to completely enclose the butter. Position five toothpicks along the belly cavity to hold in place without any gaps. Apart from the head, coat the fish in the flour, then in the eggs and then in the breadcrumbs. Repeat with the remaining fish. Chill for 30 minutes. Heat the oil for deep-frying in a large, heavy-based saucepan until the temperature reaches 180°C. Deep-fry two whiting for four minutes. Remove carefully and take out the toothpicks. Repeat with the other two fish. Serve whole with a lemon half and your favourite green salad. n
JOSH NILAND, CHEF/OWNER OF SAINT PETER IN SYDNEY Food philosophy? Finding a delicious, thought-provoking and generous way to cook every part of the fish, minimising wastage, and engaging with fishermen to explore better ways of handling it. First dish you cooked? Oysters Kilpatrick. Most vivid childhood food memory? My grandma’s scones. My grandparents lived a 15-minute drive from our house and my mum used to call her just as we were leaving. By the time we arrived, the scones were out of the oven with a tea towel over them. Getting settled in with one of those and then watching cricket with pop was a lovely time in my life. Favourite ingredient that is in season right now? Bergamot with scallops, which are in season around the same time. I cook them in the shell, and make a bergamot butter using the skirt and coral. Biggest mistake you’ve made in the kitchen? When I worked at The Fat Duck I was in charge of using a centrifuge – which (in a nutshell) separates the juice from veg or fruit. The juice comes out like a beautiful rich consommé. I made the huge mistake of pouring it down the sink and keeping the dry waste left behind... Most memorable meal out? Saison in San Francisco, when Josh Skenes was in the kitchen. The timing, taste, temperature and presentation of each dish was immaculate. To do that over 15 courses without inducing palate fatigue, is something I’m still in awe of. Kitchen rules? Please, thank you and no cling film! What’s in your fridge right now? Swordfish bacon, moonfish prosciutto, fish offal, XO sauce and coconut water. Who would you most like to take out for dinner? My parents, to Alain Ducasse at Le Louis XV in Monaco – just to let them experience the sheer over-indulgence.
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FOOD & TRAVEL
R E S T A U R A N T
R E V I E W S
FORK & FIELD
Anastasia Bernhardt goes pub hunting and neighbourhood carousing
MARKET FRESH NEW TO BOROUGH
JULIE’S, Holland Park
COUNTRY
THE MARINERS, Rock
The north Cornish coast is spoilt for fancy fish restaurants, but it’s pretty hard to come by a pub that does decent, reasonably priced, grub. Even Rick Stein’s The Cornish Arms fails to deliver on a decent Sunday roast. So when Nathan Outlaw left his prime estuary-front spot in Rock, and Paul and Emma Ainsworth (Padstow’s next Rick and Jill) stepped up to the plate with an unpretentious modern pub on the River Camel, yours truly was relieved enough to chug over on the little ferry from Padstow. Forget mile-radius sourcing – the oysters come from 500 yards down the road from the harbour of Porthilly. Start with a glass of Camel Valley Pilsner – you will have heard of the vineyard (you can almost see it across the estuary) for its champagne-beating sparkling wine but this lager feels low-key enough to crack out on a Friday lunchtime. It was made in collaboration with Sharp’s Brewery, of ‘Doom Bar’ fame and also on the doorstep. In summer, book well in advance to secure a table on the terrace. Mains from £12. paul-ainsworth.co.uk
While the days of Madonna bumping into John Galliano at Virginia Bates’ shop are long gone, residents around Clarendon Cross will be thrilled to have their neighbourhood hangout back. After all, the poor luvvies have had nowhere to sip champagne for four years now. There might not be as many secret corners for illicit rendezvous as there once was but with the kitchen under Shay Cooper’s direction (previously at The Goring), the food is better than it’s ever been in its long, illustrious history – 50 years and counting. Long-time diners might be surprised by the appearance of dishes like Shay’s posh take on KFC – buttermilk fried quail with miso – and unusual flavour pairings including ox cheek with pickled cucumber relish. Any ruffled feathers, however, will be instantly calmed by the comforting muscovado sugar sponge. Julie’s remains the good-time Sally that we all need in our lives right now. Mains from £25. juliesrestaurant.com
STONEY STREET At her first restaurant, 26 Grains in Covent Garden, Alex HelyHutchinson did for porridge what the Cereal Killer Cafe did for cereal. In her new Borough Market space she proves she’s not a one trick pony, with dishes that put seasonal veg centre-stage, like pollock with fennel, orange, olives and braised lentils. Food that’s satisfying but leaves you feeling great. Give us this day our daily veg. 26grains.com
MEI MEI If, like me, you believe everything tastes better with butter, get yourself down to Elizabeth Haigh’s Singaporean food stall, where the coffee is served with a big dollop of the good stuff, as they do in kopi tiam (grab-and-go eating stalls) found across the city-state. Order with kaya toast filled with sugar, coconut cream, pandan and eggs and, yep, more butter. Elevensies Singapore style. meimei.uk
PHOTOS: © STEELE HAIGH/KAIZEN HOUSE; © BUSHCRAFTED
TOWN
FLOR If you loved Lyle’s in Shoreditch, you’ll love the team’s latest venture. Suck out yuzu from scarlet red prawn heads and pull apart garlicky clam flatbreads, while you get stuck into the serious wine list. Do ask its supremely knowledgeable staff to help you navigate the bottles from small-scale producers and lap up the atmosphere that feels more like you’re tucked down a backstreet in San Sebastián. florlondon.com
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D R I N K
A DR IN K W ITH...
HAPPY HOUR
Raise a dram to Robbie Burns, says Alice Lascelles TALISKER 2002, 15 Y/O SPECIAL RELEASE 2019
O
nce, many years ago, I went to a ceilidh at the Talisker distillery on the Isle of Skye – we drank smoky single malts, shucked oysters and stripped the willow into the wee hours, and I’ve been a whisky lover ever since. Here are three Scottish drams to fuel your own Burn’s Night ceilidh on the 25 January.
CRAIGELLACHIE 23Y/O
Take a moment out from The Dashing White Sergeant to really savour this magnificent Speyside single malt. On the first sniff it’s all macho flintlock and leather, but then crystallised tropical fruit gradually start to shine through – pineapple, papaya – along with sweet, dry spices. Add a drop of water to unleash the full spectrum of flavours. £384. masterofmalt.com
IN OR OUT? STAYING IN
@ALICELASCELLES
AGUA DE MADRE
Atone for your sins in style with this tangy, probiotic thirstquencher, which is made from cultures found on Mexican cacti. Just 1.2 per cent abv. £4.60 for 330ml. planetorganic.com
Every year whisky company Diageo releases a capsule collection of limited editions from some its best distilleries. This new expression of Talisker wraps the distillery’s signature, peppery smoke in a swathe of sweet, earthy velvet. There’s a touch of marine saltiness and soot too, just to remind you of its island home. £110. thewhiskyexchange.com
GLEN MORAY RHUM AGRICOLE FINISH PROJECT
Yes, you read that right – this Speyside malt is finished in rum casks from Martinique. It sounds bizarre, but the result is delicious – ripe, honeyed and peachy, with a slight grassiness on the finish that clearly comes straight from the rhum agricole. The second in a series of small-batch experiments from Glen Moray. £52.95. thewhiskyexchange.com
ANGELA HARTNETT, CHEF
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What are you drinking? Coffee, and plenty of it as we’ve just opened our new Cafe Murano in Bermondsey.
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Who are you drinking it with? Friends, family and the team.
Do you have a favourite food and drink match? A bowl of pasta and a great Barolo.
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Hangover cure? Sleep and a good bacon sarnie.
If you could buy a drink for one person, who would it be? Robin Hutson, who I work with at Lime Wood. I’d buy him a Gaja from Piemonte, either 1988, 1989 or 1990.
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Most memorable drink? We went to The Sportsman recently and opened a Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru some friends had bought Neil and I as a gift for our wedding. It was amazing, and wonderful to drink with friends.
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Last great bar you visited? Richard Corrigan’s new place, Daffodil Mulligan. I took Sandra Esquilant from the Golden Heart pub. She’s run it for the last 40 years and was schooling Richard in how to pull a pint!
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What would you drink if it was your last night on earth? A bottle of Sassicaia. The new Cafe Murano is open at 184 Bermondsey Street. cafemurano.co.uk
GOING OUT
BLACK ROCK
It’s whisky, but not as you know it. Sip more than 300 drams at the 18-foot oak table in the low-lit Shoreditch basement, or order up Tokyo-style whisky highballs in the ground floor Tavern. There’s also a blending room for tastings and blend-yourown whisky sessions. Bristol branch coming soon. blackrock.bar January 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 111
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24/10/2019 14:31
27/11/2019 15:49
PROPERTY
HOUSE OF THE MONTH Sell it to us in a sentence… This property is both private and unassuming; perfect for those who prefer to be discreet about what lies beyond. In what style has it been decorated? Clean and elegant. The pared back colour palette of white and muted grey tones create a calm atmosphere. It’s January, we want to focus on our health. How will this home help us do that? Perfectly, you have everything you need to get your heart pumping within your four walls – no excuse to ignore those New Year health resolutions. … and what about our fitness regime? Workout in the gym, then dive into the exceptional underground swimming pool – follow it up with a sauna/steam session and to finish, have a smoothie at the bar.
Rede Place, Notting Hill, W2 Price: £20m 5 bedrooms 6 bathrooms Over 8,082 sq/ft
Best room in the house? The 1,300 sq/ft reception, kitchen dining room. What about the gadgets? It has its very own cinema room. What is the garden like? Private, paved and landscaped. Who would we need to hire to keep things shipshape? It is relatively low maintenance, but perhaps someone to look after the pool and run the bar! What’s special about its location? Despite being tucked away, it’s located just moments from the highly prized Westbourne Grove and just around the corner from world-class schools on Pembridge Square. … so what’s the downside? It is very near Assaggi (a wonderful Italian) – so not good for the New Year waistline! 020 7229 0229, knightfrank.com; 020 7225 0277, russellsimpson.co.uk n
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L E T ’ S
M O V E
T O
KENSINGTON
The London borough offers surprisingly good value for money, says Anna Tyzack
ABOVE AND BELOW: W8 is attracting buyers back to its safe, quiet, leafy and oh-so-central streets
BEST FOR... Slap-up Sunday lunch Kitchen W8 is a friendly neighbourhood restaurant with a Michelin star. kitchenw8.com Romantic dinner Maggie Jones has been a favourite Kensington local for 40 years. maggie-jones. co.uk
south – now they’re desperate to invest back in Kensington,’ he says. ‘They can see good value here, irrespective of the political uncertainty.’ The area has everything to offer both young professionals and families, with buzzy restaurants such as The Ivy, boutiques and antiques shops on Kensington Church Street, Whole Foods Market on Kensington High Street and plenty of green space for walking or scooting in Holland Park and Kensington Gardens. Transport links are second to none, Robertson points out. There are tube stations at High Street Kensington and Holland Park, giving fast access to the city, while the area is well-situated for the A4 leading to Heathrow airport. ‘About 50 per cent of our buyers come from overseas,’ he says. ‘Many of them are in their early to mid-thirties, looking to put down roots in London.’ School-wise, Kensington has state and private options for all ages. Willcox Nursery – where
An after-work negroni The bar at Baglioni on Hyde Park Gate is a Kensington institution, with a dangerous cocktail list. baglioni hotels.com Date night A-listers have been hanging out at Julie’s since 1969. It has just had a refurb. julies restaurant.com A new frock At Lisa Redman’s atelier on Exmoor Street you can design something bespoke. lisared man.co.uk
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
W
ith its wide streets, leafy parks and cosy neighbourhood restaurants, Kensington has long been the destination of choice for families looking to live in central London. Its airy Victorian apartments and majestic townhouses are coveted by both British and international buyers – so much so that over the past two decades W8 has been one of the most competitive markets in London. The wind is changing, though, according to Sami Robertson, head of Knight Frank’s office in Kensington, who believes the market is now undervalued. ‘It’s an established, mature market but at the moment there is room for growth,’ he says. Since the heady days of 2016, when the market in prime central London was reaching its peak, prices have come off by around 20 per cent, Robertson continues. As a result, golden postcodes such as W8 are coming back onto buyers’ radars – his figures show that transactions in Kensington are up by 13 per cent on last year. ‘Many people feel that they’ve spent too much money going east, west or
Coffee Go for breakfast at Sally Clarke’s on Kensington Church Street; she’s rumoured to be opening a coffee and croissant place. sallyclarke.com
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PROPERTY Princess Charlotte began her education – is behind the Royal Albert Hall, while Grand West preschool, a sister to Chelsea Pre-Prep, is opening this year. Fox Primary and St Mary Abbots Church of England Primary School, just off Kensington High Street (where David Cameron sent his children) are both Ofsted Outstanding, while Wetherby, the revered private prep where Princes William and Harry started school, is a popular fee-paying choice, as is Norland Place in Holland Park. Secondary options within easy reach include St Paul’s Girls’ School, Westminster School, The Grey Coat Hospital and the Lycée. Even in this flatter market, family houses in Kensington aren’t cheap, costing upwards of £4m for anything over 3,000 sq/ft. W8’s most sought-after addresses are found in the Phillimore Estate (Phillimore Crescent, Essex Villas), and around Holland Park and Addison Road. While the market has been cooler since the referendum, Robertson has witnessed competitive bidding across the core market (up to £3.5m), with sales of up to £30m on the
Phillimore Estate and up to £50m in Holland Park. Also selling well are the smaller houses on Edwardes Square, which has an award-winning garden with a grass tennis court, and properties on Sheffield Terrace and Campden Hill Gate. ‘The market is bolstered by low interest rates and a 20 per cent currency play for international buyers. When a client sees a house they like, they’re going for it,’ Robertson explains. Of particular interest this winter are homes in Kensington’s new super prime schemes, including Vicarage Gate House (northacre.com), Hollandgreen Place (knightfrank.com), One Kensington Gardens (onekensingtongardens.co.uk) and Holland Park Villas (hollandparkvillas.com) which, according to Robertson, is one of London’s best developments. ‘The quality is second to none – there’s a pool, gym, highlevel security – and it’s finished so you can see what you’re buying,’ he says. ‘These kind of developments suit international buyers who want access to luxury amenities yet prefer to live under the radar.’ For young professionals, apartments in the Victorian mansion blocks on Campden Hill Gate, Campden Hill Court and Kensington Court Gardens are popular. ‘Anything priced between £500,000 and £3.5m is selling well – the market at this level is very active,’ he says. Robertson recently spent a weekend taking a VIP investor around London – to give her an idea of the various different areas. ‘We went from King’s Cross to Blackfriars and ended up having lunch in Clarke’s in Kensington, not far from where Lucian Freud used to live,’ Robertson says. ‘She loved the vibe and immediately decided to invest in Kensington. I realised then that there’s something unique about the atmosphere here – it’s unbeatable.’ n
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
Holland Park is a big draw for Kensington residents
Attractive mansion blocks near Kensington Olympia
FOR SA L E
PHILLIMORE ESTATE, £30m 47 Phillimore Gardens is a detached house overlooking Holland Park with a grand entrance hall, drawing room, dining room, and eat-in kitchen. Upstairs are a master suite and six further bedrooms. There are also staff quarters and an upstairs studio flat. knightfrank.com
HOLLAND PARK, £5.75m A lateral three-bed family apartment on the first floor of Holly Lodge, a modern development close to Holland Park. There is almost 2,500 sq/ft of bright accommodation including an elegant hallway, eat-in kitchen and huge living room. There is also underground parking and 24-hour security. knightfrank.com
KENSINGTON HIGH STREET, £15.95m A duplex apartment in the awardwinning Hollandgreen Place. There is a spacious living room, a kitchen, spacious master bedroom with his and hers dressing rooms plus two further bedroom suites. The development features parking, pool, gym, sauna, cinema and children’s playroom. knightfrank.com
EARL’S COURT ROAD, £500,000 This one-bedroom flat is in a pretty period house on the corner of Lexham Gardens. The property has been recently renovated to include an open-plan kitchen / living room, with high ceilings and wood flooring, and a quiet double bedroom at the back of the property, with fitted storage. knightfrank.com
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PROPERTY
F I V E
O F
T H E
B E S T
HEALTHY HOMES
Everyday is a spa day when there’s one in your home, says Sofia Tindall
ST JAMES’S, SW1, £25m
With iconic British institutions like the Burlington Arcade and the Royal Academy on the doorstep, locations don’t come better than St James’s. But step behind 12 Park Place’s striking black brick and granite façade, and you’ll also find your very own wellness complex - with a club room and spectacular spa. The recently-finished five bedrooms, seven bathrooms and three reception rooms are handy to relax in after. Smart tech touches in this new-build include a sky lounge with retractable roof, cinema and five-person lift. knightfrank.co.uk
RICHMOND, TW1, from £1.995m
Each of the apartments at The Star & Garter, Richmond Hill come with underfloor heating, hardwood floors and a wet room walk-in shower. But the jewel in this development’s crown is the resident’s leisure suite. Each apartment will have access to the world-class wellness facilities including a 16m pool, Jacuzzi, sun room, sauna and a gym with state-of-the-art equipment. The local sporting scene is buzzing, with Ham polo club, MidSurrey golf course and Twickenham stadium all a stone’s throw away. featherstoneleigh.co.uk
WEST SUSSEX, £1.6m This unique property offers the opportunity to purchase two adjoining houses in West Sussex, with a leisure complex. The spacious garden room could accommodate a gym or games room, while a heated indoor pool, spa room, sauna and Jacuzzi bath are already in situ. Five bedrooms across the two bungalows offer plenty of accomodation for guests, or as a family home. struttandparker.com
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE, £4.5m Old-world country charm is abundant at Chequers Manor in rural Buckinghamshire’s Hambleden Valley. In addition to an indoor and outdoor tennis court and stables, the outdoor swimming pool and pool house is ideal for warmer weather. Stately touches include four generous double bedrooms, a palatial portico and acres of formal gardens with fruit and coniferous trees. savills.com
EARLS COURT, SW5, FROM £820,000 If you could use a spa stay after Christmas, why not simply purchase an apartment with private access to your own? Residents at the new Lillie Square development will have access to an ESPA spa, where you can recharge with a re-hydrator facial or hot stone massage. The development’s clubhouse also boasts a cocktail bar, coffee shop, and wine cellar. lilliesquare.com
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FOR THE VERY BEST OF COUNTRY & TOWN
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An interior designed, turn-key family house.
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Campden Hill Square, Kensington W8 A fantastic Grade II listed home located on the borders of Kensington, Notting Hill and Holland Park. The house is set well back from the road and particularly wide, being 7.9m (25ft 10in). • • • •
Peter Bevan looks forward to helping you. peter.bevan@knightfrank.com 020 8115 3277
Recently fully refurbished to a high specification Excellent balance of living and entertaining space Roof space has been extended to provide a great attic playroom Approximately 5,408 sq ft (502 sq m)
Guide price
£11,500,000
Freehold knightfrank.co.uk Connecting people & property, perfectly.
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An immaculate family house with a south-facing garden.
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Eldon Road, Kensington W8 Eldon Road is a quiet street located south of Kensington High Street within the De Vere conservation area. It is ideally located near excellent local schools, Kensington Gardens, shopping facilities and the transport links of Kensington High Street. • • • •
Peter Bevan looks forward to helping you. peter.bevan@knightfrank.com 020 3589 2698
An excellent balance of living and entertaining space Interior designed Good ceiling height throughout Approximately 3,193 sq ft (296 sq m)
Guide price
£7,950,000
Freehold knightfrank.co.uk Connecting people & property, perfectly.
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An elegant maisonette with direct garden access.
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Holland Park, Holland Park W11 Holland Park is one of the most desirable and exclusive roads in London and has easy access to the city along with good road links and easy access to the many restaurants and shops of Holland Park Avenue and Notting Hill. • • • •
Michael Sands looks forward to helping you. michael.sands@knightfrank.com 020 3589 2698
Contemporary style whilst retaining its original period grandeur Floor to ceiling windows Grade II listed Approximately 1,417 sq ft (131.6 sq m)
Guide price
£2,500,000
Share of freehold knightfrank.co.uk Connecting people & property, perfectly.
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An exceptional house in the heart of Belgravia.
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2 Eaton Terrace, Belgravia SW1 An impeccably designed freehold house with bespoke finishes, excellent entertaining space, a large garden and mews parking (subject to permit), located on a popular street close to Sloane Square. • • • •
Susannah Odgers looks forward to helping you. susannah.odgers@knightfrank.com 020 3641 5908
Newly refurbished Large garden of approximately 40 ft Excellent storage space Approximately 2,567 sq ft
Guide price
£6,250,000 knightfrank.co.uk Connecting people & property, perfectly.
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A duplex apartment with excellent lateral space.
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Wilton Crescent, Belgravia SW1 A duplex lateral apartment in a prestigious location which presents an opportunity to reconfigure and modernise (subject to consents). Occupying the ground and lower ground floor of a handsome period property on the corner of Wilton Crescent. • • • •
Stuart Bailey looks forward to helping you. stuart.bailey@knightfrank.com 020 3641 5908
Large patio garden Grade II listed Close to shops and amenities Approximately 2,728 sq ft
Guide price
£5,250,000 knightfrank.co.uk Connecting people & property, perfectly.
Knightfrank.indd 5
29/11/2019 15:43
Magnificent residence in Clapham Old Town.
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Clapham Common North Side, SW4 An exceptional early 18th century house offering a unique family home of approximately 7,956 sq ft, with spectacular views over Clapham Common. • • • •
Sam looks forward to helping you. sam.sproston@knightfrank.com 020 3641 7731
Set behind an immaculate front garden 99 ft private rear garden Conveniently located near to Clapham Common underground Off street parking and double garage
Guide price available on request knightfrank.co.uk Connecting people & property, perfectly.
Knightfrank.indd 6
29/11/2019 15:43
A remarkable Grade II listed home.
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Princelet Street, Spitalfields E1 This attractive home located in the Spitalfields Conservation area was originally built in 1719 offering flexible accommodation with two separate entrances off Princelet Street. • • • •
Simon Boulton looks forward to helping you. simon.boulton@knightfrank.com 020 3823 9944
Entrance has an impressive staircase Contemporary studio set over two floors Great views and bi-folding doors onto a terrace Approximately 3968 sq ft (368.6 sq m)
Guide price
£4,750,000
Freehold knightfrank.co.uk Connecting people & property, perfectly.
Knightfrank.indd 7
29/11/2019 15:43
A beautiful family house in a popular Chelsea address.
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Langton Street, Chelsea SW10 Immaculately presented four bedroom freehold house in the ever-popular Ten Acre area of Chelsea. The current owners have fully refurbished the house for their occupation, which is clear from the quality of the works carried out. • • • •
Sarah Rose looks forward to helping you. sarah.rose@knightfrank.com 020 7349 4304
Generous living space Garden and roof terrace Air conditioning in all the bedrooms Approximately 2,634 sq ft
Guide price
£4,300,000 knightfrank.co.uk Connecting people & property, perfectly.
Knightfrank.indd 8
29/11/2019 15:44
A meticulously designed townhouse in prime Fulham.
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Walham Grove, Fulham SW6 Walham Grove was built in the 1860s on land owned by the Harwood family. Set well back from the road, this semi-detached linked house forms part of an elegant proportioned tree lined terrace, and is listed as a Building of Local Merit. • Approximately 2,626 sq ft • Separate annexe • Landscaped garden • Designed and furnished by Vitruvius & Company
Our local expert, James, looks forward to helping you. james.davies@knightfrank.com 020 7751 2400
Guide price
£3,395,000
Freehold knightfrank.co.uk Connecting people & property, perfectly.
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29/11/2019 15:44
An exceptional Grade II listed Huguenot home.
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Princelet Street, Spitalfields E1 Situated on one of the most favoured turnings within the Spitalfields Conservation area, the house features an abundance of character and a lovely homely feel enhanced by period charm. • • • •
Simon Boulton looks forward to helping you. simon.boulton@knightfrank.com 020 3823 9944
Built in the 1720s and steeped in history Extensive accommodation set over five floors Boarded out loft room with rooftop views Approximately 2,637 sq ft (245.0 sq m)
Guide price
£2,950,000
Freehold knightfrank.co.uk Connecting people & property, perfectly.
Knightfrank.indd 10
29/11/2019 15:45
Built for the Great Exhibition.
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Elsynge Road, Wandsworth SW18 An impressive detached Victorian house built over 4 floors. Good transport links at Clapham Junction into Victoria/Waterloo. • • • •
Sam Sproston looks forward to helping you. sam.sproston@knightfrank.com 020 3641 7731
Off street parking 72 ft garden Good transport links Approximately 3,103 sq ft
Guide price
£2,850,000 knightfrank.co.uk Connecting people & property, perfectly.
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29/11/2019 15:45
Beautifully presented properties in Notting Hill. Elgin Crescent, Notting Hill W11 A lateral and immaculately presented apartment with communal garden access.
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Charming period building Abundance of natural light Two separate outdoor spaces Approximately 1,023 sq ft
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Chelsea Whelan looks forward to helping you.
chelsea.whelan@knightfrank.com
Guide price £1,395,000 Share of Freehold
020 8166 5451
Alexander Street, Notting Hill W2 A rare opportunity to acquire an interior designed apartment within this charming period building.
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Arranged over three floors Well-proportioned rooms throughout Offered in excellent condition Approximately 1,553 sq ft
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Chelsea Whelan looks forward to helping you.
chelsea.whelan@knightfrank.com
Guide price £2,850,000 Share of Freehold
020 8166 5451
knightfrank.co.uk Connecting people & property, perfectly. All potential tenants should be advised that, as well as rent and the deposit, an administration fee of £288 and referencing fees of £48 per person will apply when renting a property (if not an AST). (All fees shown are inclusive of VAT.) If the landlord agrees to you having a pet, you may be required to pay a higher deposit (if not an AST) or higher weekly rent (if an AST). Please ask us for more information about other fees that will apply or visit www.knightfrank.co.uk/tenantfees.
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29/11/2019 15:46
Computer Generated Images
A N E XC LUSI V E N E W DE V E L OPM E N T BY PR E M I E R H O U S E BU I L DE R O C TAG O N DE V E L O P M E N T S
020 8481 7500 | OCTAGON.CO.UK
STU8036_OCTAGON_COUNTRY & TOWN HOUSE_BROADOAKS_DPS_450x298mm_NOV19_AW.indd All Pages Octagon.indd 2
27/11/2019 10:18
The first phase of homes at Broadoaks Park in West Byfleet offers a collection of two bedroom apartments alongside three to six bedroom family houses. Set in 25 acres of landscaped grounds in the picturesque Surrey village, Broadoaks Park will blend contemporary new build homes with historic Grade II Listed buildings including a Coach House, two Lodges and the original Mansion House, all to be carefully restored and converted by Octagon’s specialist team. West Byfleet village and train station are less than 1 mile away, with regular train services to London Waterloo taking from 28 minutes. Prices for phase one range from £625,000 to £1,850,000.
R E G I S T E R YO U R I N T E R E S T T O DAY B R O A D O A K S PA R K . C O . U K
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CTH Ad Mockup.qxp_Layout 1 20/11/2019 08:05 Page 1
St. Agnes, Cornwall Chapel Porth beach 3.6 miles, Truro 8.5 miles, Newquay Airport 18 miles Sublime contemporary farmhouse near north Cornish coast. 5 bedrooms plus annexe. 4237 sqft, 20 acres, EPC – C Guide price £2m
Helford Passage, Cornwall Mawnan Smith 1.5 miles, Falmouth 7 miles, Truro 15 miles Rare opportunity on one of Cornwall’s most valuable addresses. Redevelopment potential. 3648 sqft, 0.62 acres, EPC – E Guide £2.5m
J O N AT H A N CUNLIFFE Jonathon Cunliffe.indd 2
jonathancunliffe.co.uk
27/11/2019 10:16
Helford River, Cornwall Helford Village 3.5 miles, Falmouth 13 miles, Truro 18.5 miles An idyllic and very special riverside freehold. 2 adjoining houses with 7 bedrooms in total, private quay and jetty. 3432 sqft, 6 acres, EPC – F Guide £3m
Port Navas, Cornwall Helford Passage 2 miles, Falmouth 6 miles, Truro 15 miles Creekside masterpiece. 5 bedrooms plus 2 bedroom apartment. Private quay with pontoon, garage, parking, gardens. 4015 sqft, EPC – C Guide £1.75m
J O N AT H A N jonathancunliffe.co.uk
Jonathon Cunliffe.indd 3
CUNLIFFE 27/11/2019 10:16
Fryerning Essex The Hanningfi elds, Essex Fryerning Essex Guide Price £1,395,000 Guide Price £3,850,000 Guide Price £3,850,000
A stunning four double bedroom detached family striking five double bedroom, reception Grade II AAstriking five double bedroom, fourfour reception Grade II home situated on a plot in excess of one acre, built listed period property thought to date backback 500 years. listed period property thought to date 500 years. to a high specification featuring detached garage This charming residence is originally thought to be 3 charming residence is originally withThis gym/reception/offi ce, located on thethought bordersto be 3 cottages, now providing a fantastic flow of interesting cottages, now providing a fantastic flow of interesting of The Hanningfields with the Reservoir nearby and and family living space over two floors. The The andextensive extensive living space two floors. access to the A130family and Billericay townover centre and 7.5 acre plot comprises formal grounds mixed 7.5 acre plot comprises formal grounds mixed main line station to London’s Liverpool Street. sympathetically with paddocks (benefitting fromfrom a EPCsympathetically B. with paddocks (benefitting a
second separate access), ponds and a substantial lake. second separate access), ponds and a substantial lake. Numerous outbuildings, tennis court, double garage Numerous court, double garage and detachedoutbuildings, one bedroomtennis annexe. Equestrian and detached one bedroom annexe. Equestrian potential. EPC Exempt
potential. EPC Exempt
Country && Village ce 01277 Country VillageOffi Office 01245350614 397475
Country & Village Office 01245 397475
Fryerning Blackmore Essex Village, Essex Guide GuidePrice Price £3,850,000 £950,000
Fryerning Essex A striking Grade IIfive Listed early C17 character residence A double bedroom, four reception Grade II in Price theperiod heart of Blackmore village Conservation Guide £3,850,000 listed property thought to date back 500 years. Area,charming part weather boarded with handmade This residence is originally thought toclay be 3
A striking bedroom, four reception Grade II tiles five and double interior exposed timbers and of offering cottages, now providing a fantastic flow interesting listedand period property thought to date back 500 years. fourextensive bedrooms and living threespace receptions rooms and family over two floors. The This charming residence is originally thought to be a landscaped walled garden with gated entrance, 7.5 acre plot comprises formal grounds mixed 3 cottages, now providing apaddocks fantastic flowand of interesting gravel driveway, detached garage southsympathetically with (benefitting from a facing gardens. EPC exempt. and extensive family living space over two floors. Thelake. second separate access), ponds and a substantial 7.5 acre plot comprises formal grounds Numerous outbuildings, tennis court,mixed double garage sympathetically with paddocks from a and detached one bedroom(benefitting annexe. Equestrian potential. EPCaccess), Exemptponds and a substantial lake. second separate Numerous outbuildings, tennis court, double garage and detached one bedroom annexe. Equestrian Country&&Village VillageOffice Office01245 01277397475 350614 Country potential. EPC Exempt
Country Village Office 01245 397475 Sales •&Lettings • Mortgages Beresford.indd 157 Sales • Lettings • Mortgages
27/11/2019 11:25
TOM FAULKNER
KIT KEMP
TIM GOSLING
PANDORA SYKES
LORD SPENCER
TARA BERNERD
MARTIN HULBERT
NINA CAMPBELL
MARTYN LAWRENCE BULLARD
The
HOUSE GUEST
P O D C A S T
New to Country & Town House, The House Guest podcast – exclusive interviews with the biggest names from the world of design and decoration. AVA I L A B L E O N B R I T I S H A I R WAY S I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H
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27/11/2019 12:26
LAST WORD
TALES OF OUR TIME
Battling through isn’t good for you. Michael Hayman tells us why
‘W
hat do you mean, I am not actually a general?’ Incredulity from John Vincent, the co-founder of Leon, the healthy fast food business. The response provoked by a home truth shared that the life of an entrepreneur is very different to a life fighting on the front line. On being faced with this wisdom he thought carefully before his considered response, which was: ‘Are you sure?’. He shares the anecdote as part of an interview I conducted with him about a new book he has co-authored, Winning Not Fighting. In time Vincent would come to desert the military as a metaphor for a life in business and it is this honourable discharge that he believes has been the source of his success since. His message is that business has wrapped itself in the language of the battlefield and that this is stressing us out. He makes the point that the very word strategy – much loved in the boardroom – comes from the word ‘general’ in Greek and with it war as the predominant metaphor for describing business and ‘creating the fear’ – the number one way of inflaming consumer demand. The result is a stressed-out experience for all involved. He draws inspiration from the ancient martial art of Wing Tsun, which provided him with the insight that fighting and winning are two very different things. It is when you consider the effects of this approach on his business, Leon, that the argument is at its most persuasive. Since co-founding the firm in 2004 it has gone on to become one of the fastest growing food businesses in the country.
TA L K ING POIN TS
TASTE Rubies In the Rubble (rubiesintherubble.com)
WATCH Succession (Sky Atlantic)
FROM ABOVE: Ralph Lauren’s military jacket might be à la mode in the style stakes, but it needs to be out of fashion in the boardroom; John Vincent’s book Winning not Fighting
Given the speed of its ascent, it’s curious that a key message for Vincent rests on taking your time and enjoying life. But in applying this he found the business became not only much more fun but also more productive. He claims that, ‘all the great things that have happened in Leon have happened because we have stayed relaxed’. But taking your time is easier said than done. Not least because the battleground has gone online. It puts Vincent’s laid-back message under stress as we struggle with the digital pressure cooker that increasingly controls so much of our lives. But here’s the thing, in years to come our children will look back at this as a quiet and slow-moving time in the human experience. So, learning to surf the wave of change is absolutely crucial if we don’t want to be drowned by it. Vincent is adamant that to break the cycle we have to reject the idea of force as the route to success, with gentler lessons that inspire positivity, simplicity and, ultimately, wholeness. Vincent is the very definition of ebullient positivity and I pose a final question to him that martial arts may have its doubters as a code for life. He answers, ‘I’m not going to overplay Wing Tsun. It’s just the solution to all of our problems.’ A suitable time to end hostilities. Michael Hayman MBE is co-founder of the campaigns firm Seven Hills and co-author of Mission: How The Best in Business Break Through. n
LISTEN The Dinner Party Download podcast
EXPERIENCE Secret Cinema’s Stranger Things (secretcinema.org)
136 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | January 2020
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baume-et-mercier.com
Baumatic In-house self-winding Steel 40mm
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29/11/2019 14:03
Make it personal.
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Your skin’s needs are unique and always changing. The world-renowned beauty trailblazer, Dr Jean-Louis Sebagh pioneered the concept of mixing different, powerful serums to create a personalised daily ritual that perfectly meets your skin’s needs. Potent and award-winning, Dr Sebagh’s iconic serums—including the trio of super-serums featured here—can all be used alone or combined, for agelessly radiant results. Moisturising is essential to restore the skin barrier, protect against environmental aggressors, seal in hydration and keep skin plump. Deeply moisturise and soothe your skin using Rose de Vie Serum, with antioxidant and nourishing rosehip oil, blended with the hydrating, hyaluronic acid-rich Serum Repair, which instantly leaves skin looking and feeling plumped, firmer and tighter.
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Add a trouble-shooting, ‘Ageing-Maintenance’ hero to the mix with a few drops of Supreme Maintenance Youth Serum. It boasts 95% active ingredients, more than any other skin care product, including the ‘youth molecule’ Resveratrol, three anti-aging peptides, a mineral radiance booster and an anti-pollution film. Power-up your serum blend even more with a little Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream. This patented, highly concentrated and stabilised powder-to-cream formula can be mixed with any serum to brighten the skin, prevent pigmentation and bring back its glow. Available in-store and at drsebagh.com
03/12/2019 09:47