Bold Traveller: Spring/Early Summer Edition 2024

For this edition, we asked our travellers to tell us about their all-time favourite food experience.

MALIK COCHEREL

@malik_cocherel

Seeking Soul Food, pg 28

I wouldn’t hesitate to fly back to Chicago, to sit at the table of Ever, one of the city’s finest restaurants. Operated by Michelin-starred chef Curtis Duffy, it offers a most delightful culinary experience in a magnificent setting and was the inspiration behind a famous episode of the current hit series, The Bear

CHARLENE ROOKE

@_packlight

Cayman’s Cocktail Hour, pg 26

I recently took a floatplane excursion to one of Louisiana’s barrier islands in the Gulf of Mexico, to an oyster farm where we slurped Little Moons freshshucked out of the water, and hot-offthe-grill dripping garlic butter. I had a Ramos Gin Fizz for breakfast that day, and a fresh-horseradish-spiced Bloody Mary with the oysters. Encore!

AARON RASMUSSEN

@writeadr

Hidden Treasure, pg 74

In Cusco, Peru, I experienced a sensory feast at the Baroque 18th century San Antonio Abad Chapel within the Belmond property Monasterio. One of the country’s leading sopranos serenaded us as we enjoyed course after course of local dishes, all served in the glow of a gilded altar under the soaring nave

Photo courtesy of Steirereck Restaurant / Heinz Reitbauer

NOURISH.

WHETHER IT’S FOOD or food for thought, the act of providing nourishment, for the body and the soul, is a noble calling. People that feed others, through cooking with care, or sharing their wisdom through the spoken or written word, fuel our mental and physical well-being.

Breaking bread is among the most basic of equalizers. Everyone at the same table,

sharing a meal, a story, a moment of unified appreciation and grace for what’s been given. It is a cultural immersion that even the most introverted of us will dig in and taste.

Once we’ve reached that entry point, it opens so many doors. A simple yet utterly sublime cacio e pepe may take us to Rome; a cochinita pibil taco will transport us to Mérida; a savoury steak & kidney pie to London. Dumplings? From the juicy soup varieties of Asia to chicken and dumplings of the American south to Matzoh balls in broth, who doesn’t love ’em? Don’t get me started on curry. Aside from what I like to affectionately call meat on a stick (think souvlaki, shish kebab, satay, you get the picture), from Manchester to Malaysia, Jaipur to Jamaica, curry might be one of the world’s most global, yet locally unique foods.

And the regions that are forever associated with food or drink: Vienna and Champagne both come immediately to mind. It’s a reflection of gastronomy, a characteristic of a place or city that connects its food to its people, history and culture. To wit, UNESCO has its own designation, The City of Gastronomy, which “celebrates the culinary traditions and innovations of its people.”

One of my missions during the hard times of this decade was to support and celebrate local as much as possible. Being blessed to be born and raised in Toronto, among the most diverse places on the planet, gave me an advantage (158 neighbourhoods means 158 different culinary possibilities!), and also a gateway to international cuisines. It was cultural immersion in my own backyard. And now we can go again and experience

these foods and the people that prepare them in their natural habitats.

On a trip to England in March, I was invited to take a road trip, hotel-hopping with The Pig, a meticulously crafted group of restaurant-with-rooms English-country inns with a strict 25-mile ethos. Each of the three I visited had an impressive kitchen garden –even in the last gasps of winter! – inspiring the chefs to create seasonal, plant-forward menus. Sweet hispi cabbage used for a classic wedge salad? Why not? Meaty mushrooms or smoky cauliflower fried like calamari? Start me up. The mellowness of forced rhubarb as a topper to roast venison in place of applesauce? Yes, please. Of course, being called The Pig means pork dishes, but a close proximity to the sea allowed for fish and seafood as well. I’ll share the rest of this story in an upcoming issue, so stay tuned.

But I digress. Taking a culinary journey is not simply a trend, it’s a wholly satisfying reason to book that trip. Travel can fuel our curiosity and nourish a deeper understanding of the differences between us – and gently remind us that we’re not that different after all.

Buen provecho, qĭng màn yòng or, in my Greek-Canadian household, kali oreksi, it’s all bon appétit to me.

Safe travels,

Vivian Vassos Editor in Chief

Vivian with Mayan Chef Amalia in Mérida, Mexico; (below left) cocktail hour near The Beach in Toronto.

ON OUR RADAR

SNACKS!

A few light bites and sips from around the world to feed your wanderlust

ENGLAND: THE ART OF THE COCKTAIL

The stunning lobby bar at the newly refurbished One Aldwych hotel in London, England, is a wonderful mix of old-world Brit cosy with a dollop of contemporary thrown in. The building is a beauty, making its debut in 1905 as the offices of the Morning Post newspaper – its location, on the edges of Covent Garden, the West End, the Strand and Fleet Street made it ideal then as now. Floral arrangements play spectacular garden party roles around the softly curved room, colourful blooms revel in the light let in by enormous arched windows that line the sides of the bar (not bad for people watching either), but the eye candy gets even better. Works of art from the hotel’s private collection of more than 400 pieces, also inform the cocktail menu. Whether sipping on a Horseradish Martini inspired by the London-based sculptor André Wallace’s bronze, “The Boatman,”

or the Blueberry Enzoni – a take on the Negroni and the abstract splashings of Philip Diggle’s “Michel Foucault” from his series of paintings created while on stage to the live sounds of his brother’s punk band The Buzzcocks, there’s refreshment for all. But the classics are also spectacular works of art: A bit of performance theatre acts out with an Old Fashioned served tableside from the traditional cocktail trolley; an Espresso Martini will boost any pre-theatre goer’s mood – and why not add a little extra? The Martinis are a perfect foil for the Buckwheat blinis begging for a tiny spoonful of Exmoor caviar. —Vivian Vassos onealdwych.com

CANADA: THE 19TH HOLE

At Cabot Cliffs and Cabot Links in Nova Scotia, having a nosh after a round is a hole in one of a delicious kind. Golfers are usually finicky about where they play, and they’re equally demanding when it comes to food. A great burger and fries are fine, but Cabot Golf co-founder and CEO Ben CowanDewar knows his Cabot restaurants need to go beyond the usual sports bar cuisine. At Panorama, the main restaurant at Cabot Cliffs and Cabot Links in Nova Scotia, the menu features dishes such as local oysters, beef tartare with smoked mustard, anchovy and caper berries, local lobster carbonara and Northumberland lamb with local baby swiss chard and raita. At Cabot Highlands they’re building a new clubhouse that will have a whisky and cigar bar and a chophouse restaurant. “We’re dedicated to providing world-class dining experiences at every Cabot property,” Cowan-Dewar said. “We’ve invested in top culinary talent to guide the

Photographs courtesy of: One Aldwych Hotel; Cabot Cape Breton; Zaytinya Bar, New York/ Björnwallander; Criollo Restaurant.

culinary vision and menu creation across all of our properties. Guests can expect dishes that incorporate fresh, local ingredients, destination-specific traditions, innovative cocktail programs and curated wine lists from the best regions of the world.”

—Jim Byers cabotcapebreton.com

UNITED STATES: NOMAD REVIVAL

Walking into the lobby of the newly minted Ritz-Carlton New York, NoMad, one would have to take a moment. Which way to turn, left or right? Go right, and find yourself in Zaytinya, the Michelin-starred and philanthropist chef José Andrés’ glistening bronze and warm white oak ode to Mediterranean cuisine. Turn left, and you’re in an intimate hotel lobby that spills into the stunning Bazaar Bar. Neither is a bad choice. In an almost hidden corner of the bar, you’ll find a curved tiled staircase that leads up to The Bazaar by José Andrés (all the food and bev at the hotel is under his eye), a luxe dining space that feels as much Barcelona as Tokyo as NYC. The innovative food is anchored in Spanish (hello, jamón Iberico), adds in a generous slice of Japanese (wagyu, kobe, ramen) and wraps it up with a

sumptuous raw bar. Speaking of bars, there’s one here too; but save the nightcap for the rooftop’s Nubelez, where a quartet of spiritfree cocktail concoctions lead the concise menu. The view from the top’s not bad either, if we do say so ourselves. —Vivian Vassos ritzcarlton.com

MEXICO: HOLA, OAXACA

Oaxaca may be the foodie capital of Mexico, but here, two ways to go beyond the culinary and take a bigger bite of this beloved area of the country. Of course, you should still book a table.

CULTURE IN OAXACA CITY

Oaxaca is a city that will stay with you. Surrounded by mountains, webbed with cobblestone streets, splashed with colour, and simmering with rich flavours, Oaxaca City is full of heritage, art, culture, and beauty. Start in the buzzy Centro Historico, with its grand cathedral, street food vendors, rooftop terraces and mezcal bars. Venture out of town to explore centuries-old ruins, and check into one of its stunning design-forward boutique hotels.

BOOK A TABLE: Criollo, from chef Enrique Olvera (of the three-star Michelin resto Pujol in Mexico City), which made the World’s 50 Best Discovery list.

WAVES IN PUERTO ESCONDIDO

Surf culture collides with rustic fishing village vibes at this bustling town on the Pacific coast. Gentrification has certainly taken its course across this palm-tree fringed boho backpacker town, with luxe cocktail bars,

experimental cuisine and sexy-chic beach clubs. Still, the ethos of Puerto Escondido is toes in the sand, stop for the sunset, and leave your watch at home. Experience its many rugged beaches, the biggest surf pipeline in Mexico, jungle hot springs, and dramatic ocean views. BOOK A TABLE: Almoraduz, an haute-cuisine ode to local Oaxacan by chefs Shalxaly Macías and Quetzalcoátl Zurita. —Meagan Drillinger

From Michelin stars to cheap eats, these hot tables are a culinary traveller’s answer to where to have a satisfying nosh within easy driving or flying distance. Some are so close, you can make a reso tonight.

BY DICK SNYDER

ON HOME TURF

CALGARY: THE WILDE ON 27

An airy dining room and patio in the Dorian Hotel overlooking downtown Calgary. Global influences abound in the meat- and seafood-centred menu accentuated by local seasonality. The room is comfortably stylish – as are the guests – and the service is attentive. ORDER UP: Weekend brunch is a hot ticket, with multiple food stations (think: raw bar, beef, pastry, cocktail, etc.) complementing à la carte creations. thewilderooftop.com

ST. CATHARINES, ONT.: ODDBIRD

It’s tiny, it’s hip and it serves the most creative dishes in Niagara wine country. These are deceptively complex, with minimal but integral ingredients. Classics such as escargots or steak tartare are on point, as are the burgers and buttermilk fried chicken. Crave something rich and fancy? Bone marrow, foie gras and lobster Rockfeller are menu staples. As with the food, cocktails follow the seasons. The scene is often boisterous and feels just right. ORDER UP: Foie gras – in any of many forms – is the perfect snack paired with an opening glass from a tight list of wines and beers. oddbird.ca

MONTREAL: VIN MON LAPIN

It feels like a snack bar – its easy casualness belying inventive dishes that are lockstep with Quebec’s growing seasons existing light years beyond anything happening within the city’s perimeter. This is a cozy neighbourhood haunt for those who live in Little Italy and a foodie destination for anyone who follows restaurant rankings

of any sort. Though born in 2018, the restaurant has, in the past few years, hit its stride. Wines are brilliantly paired with constantly changing daily menus – it helps that Chef and Sommelier are married. Service is direct: You are tonight’s celebrity. Get there now. ORDER UP: Everything. This is farm-to-table with few parallels – fresh, surprising, ingredient-centric, restrained, euphoric and perfectly seasoned. vinmonlapin.com

TORONTO: OVERPRESSURE CLUB

This easygoing neighbourhood lounge is a stand-out in a busy cocktail scene, featuring pre-batched cocktails on tap bolstered by a collection of signature shaken-and-stirred drinks. Bartenders are meticulous, convivial and well-tattooed. Japanese-style whisky highballs perfectly accompany a small but serious menu of flavourful treats, from grilled Chinese greens to karaage. Great soundtrack, kept mercifully balanced in volume. ORDER UP: Loaded fries are a standout, and not your usual chip. overpressureclub.com

SOUTH OF THE BORDER

SANTA BARBARA, CALIFORNIA: SATELLITE SB

Breathtakingly creative vegetarian cuisine in a cozy arts district restaurant decorated with an outer space theme. The scene is healthy with a far-out vibe. The streetside patio is the place to be on a warm evening, as the action on State Street heats up. Inside, interstellar tchotchkes and an inviting bar ensure a good time. satellitesb.com

LAS VEGAS: PARK ON FREMONT

A sculpture garden invites locals and glitzfleeing tourists to an oasis of peace and quiet, punctuated by a danceable deejay-curated soundtrack. Simple fare – perhaps the best burger this side of In-N-Out – along with healthy salads and vegetarian dishes draw a hip and happy clientele. Inside is a veritable art gallery – the display of taxidermy behind the long bar rivals the Smithsonian. The food is delicious, the vibe irresistible. parkonfremont.com

Photographs courtesy of: Vin Mon Lapin Restaurant; Britney Townsend/Overpressure Club; S.y. Kitchen; Heinz Reitbauer/Steirereck Restaurant; Anthony Mair/Park On Fremont; Satellite Sb Restaurant.

SANTA YNEZ, CALIFORNIA: SY KITCHEN

A quintessential wine-country dining experience. Casual, refined and full-on Italian – chef hails from Verona – with dishes that take full advantage of the yearround bounty from the Santa Ynez Valley and nearby producers. Pastas are a stand-out, simple and restrained. In season, tagliatelle is layered tableside with black truffles. Pappardelle is littered with nothing more than wild mushrooms, parmigiano and thyme. Wines lean heavy on local, bolstered by the usual Italian suspects. sykitchen.com

PORTLAND, OREGON: GADO GADO

A riot of colour and fabulous music meets the eyes and ears as a joyful greeter leads you to the table in this frisky restaurant-bar in Portland’s Hollywood district. Vegetarians and vegans will find plentiful delights such as coconut tomato curry or sweet potato and parsnip pakora. Meat eaters fret not, for dishes of Chinese sausage and shrimp siu mai await – and much more. The ingredient lists are long, the flavours deep and complex, and the night vibes elevated. Cocktails are a strength. gadogadopdx.com

Sunflower with curry plant, yoghurt and yellow beans.

WORTH FLYING THE RED-EYE

VIENNA: STEIRERECK

Inside a sleek and slightly imposing metal building anchoring the serene Stadtpark in downtown Vienna is a minimally decorated ode to fine dining that, once you are seated, feels like a warm embrace. Two Michelin stars are justified in every choreographed touch, as well as dishes that are visually arresting and plain delicious. Joyful, even. Ingredients come from the farm at a sister property out of town or from producers that are also close friends. This is a place for contemplative lingering (plan three hours for lunch). Wines and cocktails are paired exquisitely with every dish. Desserts are stunning. steirereck.at

The Bold List: Where to Eat & Drink Now

Hide&Seek

Off-the-beaten-path takes on new meaning with these cocktail-bar bolt-holes. Now, you will have a new haunt in all your favourite cities.

BY DOUG WALLACE

sOMETIMES YOU JUST want to duck into a quiet place for a drink or two, shoot the breeze, chew the fat. The continuance of the Prohibition-era speakeasy-style watering hole is evidence of our need to step out of the limelight once in a while and into a dry martini.

Soma Soho

LONDON: SOMA SOHO

“Soma” is a Sanskrit word meaning to distill and extract, which seems more than apt for this modern, subterranean speakeasy. Guests pull up a wooden stool along an etched stainless-steel bar or murmur away in the nooks and crannies. A semi-private lounge, all done in sumptuous chestnut brown, is a hot ticket for gaggles of 10 to 25. Look for the entrance next to Kricket Restaurant. DRINK UP: The Cashew features mezcal with sweet vermouth, burnt cashew and Carpano Bitters, while the Rose is a spritzed gin with a rose and cherry-blossom flavour boost. 14 Denman Street; somasoho.com

MONTREAL: STILLIFE

A small, apple shingle on Saint Paul West just outside Old Montreal is the only demarcation of Stillife, with the door off a side alley. The minimalism carries on inside the sleek, sexy space, which is lined with dark banquettes and tiny tables. Bartenders whip up house specialties and old-school classics Wednesday through Saturday nights. The list also includes an impressive selection of tequilas and whiskies. Go late. DRINK UP: The Rosie tastes like a tequila-forward Negroni, while the Castanea features cognac washed with pumpkin milk and chocolate bitters. 640 Saint Paul Street West; stillifemtl.com

LOS ANGELES: ADULTS ONLY

Patrons enter this Boogie Nights-style watering hole through a doorway of what appears to be an old video store in the corner of a shopping-mall plaza. Once inside, Old Hollywood glamour rules, the décor championing the golden era of film.

Cinematic-slash-ecclesiastical touches include dramatic drapery, Gothic cathedral lamps, movie posters, church pews, stainedglass windows and projected movies. Brace for the beautiful people dressing to impress, who have probably already had a few. Follow the pink neon. DRINK UP: A bourbon with a beer chaser. Make it a double. 7065 ½ Sunset Boulevard; adultsonlybar.la

SINGAPORE: 28HKS

The award-winning 28 HongKong Street is hardly a secret, particularly when your name is your address. The exterior looks like it’s a hardware store that has closed for the night, perhaps even for good. Inside, it feels like you’ve ducked into a low-lit speakeasy – the Prohibition-era feel further underlined by the fact that alcohol in Singapore is so heavily taxed. DRINK UP: With the Black Forest Negroni, the Italian classic gets a German makeover. The Veg-O-Matic sports a mix of gins flavoured with yellow pepper, basil and lemon. 28 Hongkong Street; 28hgs.com

TORONTO: VATICAN GIFT SHOP

It’s blasphemous! What looks like a small shoebox selling votive candles and religious doo-dads opens up to a low-lit space sporting a long, wooden bar, a lounge and a Neapolitan pizza (straight from the wood-burning oven) restaurant, complete with cathedral lamps. There’s plenty of space for intimate live-music shows, 1980s dance parties and karaoke. DRINK UP: Choose a

local or European beer, or a fancy cocktail like the Ride the Cliché, which mixes ginger beer, amaro, tequila and lemon. 1047 Gerrard Street East; @thevaticangiftshop

BUENOS AIRES: FRANK’S

What begins like the opening credits of TV show Get Smart quickly turns into what looks like a set piece from Peaky Blinders The doorman requires a password (which you’ll find on Facebook), before giving you a code to dial into an American phone booth, the back of which then opens out onto a 1920s-style lounge. Two floors here are festooned with chandeliers and velvet. Book ahead via the bar’s Instagram account where you’ll find a link to the Woki reservations app to make your entry more seamless.

DRINK UP: Dandy bartenders specialize mostly in drinks fashionable in the 1920s. Bespoke cocktails can also be made from your particular tastes. Arévalo 1445; @franks_bar

NEW YORK CITY: PDT

Also accessed by calling from a phone booth – this time in the hot dog café Crif Dogs in New York’s East Village – this hideaway is very well-known for its speakeasy. Featured on Anthony Bourdain’s The Layover TV series, PDT (which stands for Please Don’t Tell) is a brick-walled basement den punched up with taxidermied animals. Sit at the bar so you can watch the show. And definitely make a reservation.

DRINK UP: A hot dog, of course. The Alpine Fresca features rosemaryinfused tequila and Génépy, a Alpine herbal liqueur. The Halva Suissesse is a creamy Middle East-styled absinthe confection. 113 St. Marks Place; pdtnyc.com

Photographs courtesy of: Rebecca Hope/Soma Soho; Doug Wallace/Stillife; Frank’s Bar; Please Don’t Tell Bar.

CAYMAN’S COCKTAIL HOUR

It may be tiny, but this island in the Caribbean plays host to some of the best bars in the world.

Charlene Rooke takes a sip.

ONTHE WHITE-SAND stretch of Seven Mile Beach, deciding between a perfect Piña Colada and a tequila-kissed Frosita could be the great challenge of a Grand Cayman vacation. On this trip, I turn away from Coccoloba beach bar and head to a booklined nook of the Kimpton Seafire Resort & Spa’s lobby, to imbibe at what one top drinks writer already called the best bar of 2024.

Library by the Sea’s literary-themed menu (conceived as a lavishly illustrated book, of course) offers drinks in spheres and giant shells, crowned with sparkles or buttercream caramel foam. The Electric Dreams, inspired by Blade Runner’s sci-fi origin story, consists of tubes of Scotch paste, some gel cubes and mounds of flavoured powder on a circuit board: a drink a robot could love. From an inventory of vintage spirits, the E. Hemingway Special daiquiri, made with circa-1930s spirits from Papa’s era, gets served up with first editions.

Grand Cayman, a speck of a British Overseas Territory tucked between Cuba and Jamaica, is officially a cocktail hotspot. Two bars on the tiny island appear on the 2024 50 Best Discovery list, often a harbinger of World’s Best Bars consideration. The prestigious Cayman Cookout culinary festival in January and an annual Cayman Cocktail Week (October) generate yearround innovation, shaking and stirring up libations to satisfy travellers at chic boutique hotels and resorts.

Island ingenuity powers Oasis, Library by the Sea’s pool-house-turned-cocktail-lab,

Photographs courtesy of: Library By The Sea Bar; Palm Heights Bar; The Westin Grand Cayman Seven Mile Beach Resort & Spa.

stocked with malic acid and xanthan gum, rosewater and roasted-eggplant distillate. Kimpton beverage manager Jim Wrigley is a veteran of the world-class global bar scene. His wizardry is mindful, upcycling and optimizing ingredients with a zero-waste mindset. “Sustainability is everything on an island,” says Wrigley, who procures some liquor from pioneering Eco Spirits, which ships in bulk instead of heavy glass bottles.

Wrigley encourages local bar crawling. He recommends Macabuca, a “dive” bar (think flip-flops and wetsuits, not cheap beer and neon) on the island’s northwest tip, where waves crash over the patio’s rocky shore. You can casually crush some jerk chicken and frozen Beer-Garitas, or head upstairs to the elegant Cracked Conch for elevated tiki takes, like the Night Dive of aged rum with house-made chai and orgeat syrups.

I check out the island’s two 50 Best Discovery picks. First up, Door No 4, home of stunningly cold Martinis with houseblend vermouth and conch-stuffed olives. Local naiseberry fruit, coconut cake and mango skin essence infuse spirits, cordials and mists at a bar where mocktails get just as much love: New Beau (made of purple corn, cacao, coconut, pineapple skin, sarsaparilla and other spices) lets guests enjoy a nonalcoholic red wine placebo drink. Cocktails at Next Door, at the Crescent complex on the marina, riff as creatively as the live jazz singer. My blush-coloured Compass showcases island botanicals: bitter taraxacum infuses white Port and Brazilian cachaça,

balanced by cantaloupe and dandelion soda.

The island’s upscale hotels don’t settle for staid lobby bars, either. At the Ritz-Carlton Grand Cayman’s leaf-coloured Silver Palm, a custom-built armoire houses a cache of premium rums, cigars and Caribbean cacao products for a nightly rum ritual guided by top-notch “rummeliers,” says beverage manager Monica Dubar. “Some guests will enjoy the entire selection during their stay.” At rich-and-famous haunt Palm Heights, a Beverly Hills-like boutique hotel, I sip a white Negroni at luxe Tillie’s, as the Crayola sunset vies for my attention.

On another night, I catch bartender Ollie Dyer bouncing between the pool bar, a beach dinner for 700 (complete with fireworks) and the elegant Catboat bar at the Westin Grand Cayman Seven Mile Beach Resort & Spa. Serving smoked-to-order aged rum Old Fashioneds and beet-infused Patron Margaritas with flair is his wheelhouse, after working for a Duke in the UK and barhopping jobs around the world. “I stayed [on Grand Cayman], even during the pandemic when everything was closed, because there’s a great sense of community here,” Dyer says.

A bespoke Westin bottling of 7 Fathoms Rum leads me to the island’s first distillery. Cayman Spirits Co. appears modest from outside, but Cayman-Canadian co-founder Walker Romanica says 50,000 visitors tour and sample here every year. “If this looks like a couple of idiots welded two ice buckets

together, that’s because we did,” he laughs, pointing to the still he and co-owner Nelson Dilbert made more than 15 years ago. Historic ocean-aging techniques inform 7 Fathoms, as underwater maturation and wave action turns island-grown sugarcane distillate into smooth, caramelly rum. I taste Cayman Spirits ocean-blue Poseidon gin, which citrus or tonic turns fuchsia due to butterfly pea blossom – an exotic and rare ingredient in Canada that “grows everywhere here, literally on the side of the road,” says Romanica.

More Cayman Spirits Co. distillates can be had at The Wine Emporium, which offers blend-your-own gin and rum classes. It’s the brainchild Christian Esser and Shalico Christian, the wine and drinks experts also behind Le Petit Bar, a dreamy wine, cocktail and charcuterie boite that’s a bartenderfavourite late-night hang. “We have a lot going on here,” says Esser. “It’s a very exciting scene.”

Back at the Kimpton, I sip From Cayman with Love: a Martini-like Ian Fleminginspired concoction of white rum, flaskinfused with exotic local botanicals and poured at table into a beautiful ceramic shell. I drink it down to the “pearl,” a cocktail onion coated to shimmer like the gem. The real prize here, though, is discovering a local drinks scene that’s about to take the world by tropical storm.

visitcaymanislands.com/en-ca

S EEKINGSOUL FOOD

Within the courtyard of the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art, Map Café is one of the best restaurants in Cusco.

Photography, José Valleros/Promperu; Matt Hind (Hiram Bingham train)

Renowned for its archaeological treasures, Peru is also home to culinary delights worthy of exploration. In the land of the Incas, Malik Cocherel grabs a bite.

The "White City" of Arequipa.

LIMA

If Peruvian cuisine has risen to become one of the best globally, credit goes to Virgilio Martínez. The graduate of the esteemed Le Cordon Bleu Ottawa played a pivotal role in the culinary revolution that elevated Lima to the status of a premier destination for food enthusiasts. Located in the bohemian district of Barranco, Central soared to the top of the influential “50 World’s Best Restaurants” list in 2023 – a well-deserved accolade, under Martínez and his wife and head chef, Pía León. The restaurant takes you on an incredible gastronomic journey through Peru’s diverse ecosystems, from the Pacific coast to the Amazon rainforest, passing through the Inca Valley and its lofty peaks.

Embarking on this extraordinary gastronomic odyssey, with a succession of 14 meticulously crafted courses and complemented by a specially composed soundtrack by local artist Maribel Tafur, has become an increasingly sought-after experience. It is highly advisable to secure your reservation at least six months in

explore the culinary offerings in the ancient Inca capital, perched at 3400 metres above sea level

advance, as the restaurant has garnered international acclaim, attracting a starstudded clientele that includes the likes of Robert DeNiro, Chris Martin, Camila Cabello and Zac Efron.

centralrestaurante.com.pe/en

Another standout in the Peruvian metropolis, Maido recently clinched the title of the best restaurant in Latin America and is often fully booked. Its head chef, Mitsuharu “Micha” Tsumura, was a trailblazer in the Nikkei movement, blending flavours from Peru and Japan. Compared to Central, Maido offers a different culinary journey, bridging two countries with a shared rich history. An equally enchanting experience awaits you with an 11-course culinary journey in the heart of the stylish Miraflores district, renowned as one of Lima’s trendiest neighbourhoods and home to a plethora of chic restaurants. maido.pe

While in Lima, do not miss the Larco Museum, a cultural gem founded by

Peruvian archaeologist Rafael Larco Hoyle. The museum showcases an extensive collection of pre-Columbian art, including a magnificent assembly of 38,000 Mochica ceramics. After immersing yourself in this stunning collection, treat yourself to a delightful detour at the Larco CaféRestaurant. Indulge in causa, the renowned Peruvian potato terrine infused with lemon and adorned with succulent shrimp and avocado. cafe.museolarco.org/en

CUSCO

Often seen as a stopover before ascending Machu Picchu, the city of Cusco deserves more than a passing glance. Not only to acclimate to the demanding altitude but also to explore the culinary offerings in the ancient Inca capital, adorned with colonial architecture perched at an elevation of 3400 metres above sea level. Start by exploring the vibrant San Pedro market, where colourful stalls overflow with cheeses, purple corn

Ollantaytambo and the Temple of the Sun, located in the Sacred Valley of the Incas near Cusco.

At Central, Virgilio Martínez takes you on an incredible gastronomic journey through Peru’s diverse ecosystems.

and a variety of local fruits, and taste chuta, Cusco’s traditional bread.

Next, visit Map Café, near the prestigious Monasterio hotel. Within the courtyard of the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art, this restaurant unquestionably stands as one of the city’s premier spots to relish a regional delicacy: capchi de setas, a creamy soup featuring mushrooms and fava beans. mapcusco.pe/en

Another exceptional venue in Cusco is Morena, commanding a view of the majestic Plaza de Armas and its impressive churches. This establishment offers a diverse menu featuring alpaca skewers and the renowned Peruvian guinea pig known as cuy due to its distinctive squeak. Trying cuy provides a unique glimpse into the culinary legacy of the region. Domesticated in the central Andes for nearly 5000 years, guinea pig is held in high esteem as a delicacy. Its meat is celebrated for its elevated protein content and lower fat compared to chicken or pork. Typically, this traditional dish is accompanied by Andean potatoes. grupomorena.com/en/morenaperuvian-kitchen

When the time comes to visit Machu Picchu, board the prestigious Hiram Bingham train that connects Cusco to the famous Inca citadel. Named after the explorer who discovered the Machu Picchu ruins in 1911 (and inspired George Lucas’ Indiana Jones character), the luxury train operated by Belmond provides a sumptuous experience in beautifully decorated 1920s-inspired dining cars. It provides an ideal backdrop for gourmet dishes paired with a Pisco Sour, all while marvelling at the stunning landscapes along the Urubamba River that guide you to the village of Aguas Calientes, at the base of Machu Picchu. belmond.com/trains

AREQUIPA

The second-largest city in Peru after Lima is embraced by three volcanoes and basks in more than 300 sunny days annually, a substantial advantage over its frequently overcast big sister. While some refer to the Peruvian capital as “The Grey City,” Arequipa has earned the moniker “White City” due to the brilliance of its colonial buildings, gleaming in pristine white. This southern beauty offers a culinary landscape that reflects the rich tapestry of local flavours, traditions and culinary heritage.

Arequipa’s gastronomic legacy is closely tied to picanterias. These traditional restaurants, existing for centuries, offer homemade dishes reflecting the local popular culture. A true institution in the

city, La Nueva Palomino is one of the oldest active picanterias. Located in the dynamic Yanahuara district, this authentic restaurant serves hearty dishes prepared with ancestral techniques and local ingredients, in a lively and casual atmosphere. Families and friends gather around large communal tables, especially for escribano, a typical Arequipan dish made from mashed potatoes, tomatoes, vinegar and rocoto pepper.

lanuevapalomino.com

If you still have room for dessert, head to Machuquita restaurant, located in the heart of San Camilo market. It is undoubtedly the premier destination to savour the renowned queso helado (frozen cheese) originating from Arequipa. Contrary to its name, this reat, with a creamy texture reminiscent of ice cream, is crafted from milk, vanilla, cinnamon and sugar – without any actual cheese.

facebook.com/quesoheladomachuca

While exploring the San Camilo market, treat yourself to freshly squeezed lucuma juice and take in the therapeutic benefits of this Andean fruit, which poses export challenges due to its exceptionally thin skin. peru.travel/en

The prestigious Hiram Bingham train that connects Cusco to Machu Picchu.

Above: Maido's head chef Mitsuharu "Micha" Tsumura was a trailblazer in the Nikkei movement, blending flavours from Peru and Japan.

Pisco sour time in Arequipa.

IRELAND

TWO WAYS

Eating in Cork and drinking in Dublin are the right recipe for finding merriment on the Emerald Isle. BY AARON RASMUSSEN

Photos courtesy of: The Sidecar Bar; Toons Brid ge.

EATING CORK

A taxi driver with the gift of the gab who picks me up at the Cork train station shares a suggestion in his distinctive Irish brogue: skip a visit to the Blarney Stone and the need to bend over backwards to give it a kiss – a legend he calls a “bunch of nonsense” – and instead discover the mouthwatering magic of the city’s celebrated food scene. Twist my arm.

After a quick culinary crash course in everything Cork has to offer, my first stop is to the English Market (right), established 1788. I work up an appetite strolling the stalls brimming with fish, meat, produce, flowers and other earthly delights. I eavesdrop on the locals, known for their irreverent sense of humour, causing me to arrive too late for lunch at Farmgate Café, located above the market and serving favourites sourced from ingredients sold here. So instead of sampling traditional Irish fare, like drisheen, a black pudding made with sheep’s blood, milk and spices, I head to my hotel, The River Lee, part of The Doyle Collection.

The property’s The Grill Room, an airy, elegant restaurant with lacquered teal walls that wouldn’t be out of place in Paris, also uses many of the food producers from the

market, including Ballycotton Seafood and the renowned butcher Quigley Meats. Cozied up in a corner booth, I go completely carnivore. Crispy pork belly, served with a zesty side of bánh mi salad, and an Angus ribeye steak, with an aromatic Jameson peppercorn sauce, arrive piping hot to the table. I promptly and joyfully devour both. Later, drifting off into a food coma in my suite overlooking the City of Bridges and the hotel’s eponymous River Lee, I fully understand why Cork is considered the Food Capital of Ireland.

DRINKING DUBLIN

A spirited journey to Dublin is easy since it’s home to everything from centuries-old pubs to sleek new cocktail lounges. Anything could be a good reason to indulge in a drink in the Irish capital. My excuse, perhaps flimsy, is to try a Guinness in the city where it originated. I have a choice of popular spots, ranging from The Temple Bar, with its whiskeys galore, to The Long Hall, beloved by Dubliners and tourists alike. I opt to drink in the lively atmosphere at McDaids on Harry Street.

Operating since the 18th century, the pub’s soaring ceilings, stained glass and dark wood are testament to its past lives as a morgue and Moravian chapel. But what fascinates me more is the watering hole’s claim to fame as a former haunt of literary Irish giants such as James Joyce, who is said

to have drawn inspiration from the pub for the opening of Grace, his short story about a reformed heavy drinker.

The Irish are famously adept at the art of casual bar conversation. I learn from a former Guinness employee that a perfectly poured pint of the stout begins in a pub’s cellar, where the keg can be kept at a controlled temperature. And from the lower location, the beer snakes through a long tube (or python) to the tap above, where it’s delivered with just the right pressure.

True or not, my Guinness hits the spot, and fuels me on my quick walk around the corner, to the five-star The Westbury and its Art Deco-inspired cocktail lounge, The Sidecar (opposite page). A three-tiered martini cart – the only in Ireland – replaces pub kegs. The cocktail menu lists 16 drinks, many a twist on a classic. Each features a name that pays homage to a bygone era, from the Gold Digger, a sidecar made with cognac, yellow chartreuse, honey, lemon and ginger ale, to my selection, a clarified piña colada with hints of vanilla and pimento, called the Voguette. The Sidecar’s manager, Oisin Kelly, serves me and other patrons a champagne amuse-bouche in a custom-made coup while each craft cocktail is conjured up behind the bar. Creating the menu, he explains, was a yearlong exercise in experimenting with a complex range of elements to find the precisely right flavour profiles. Sláinte to a job well done!

Places to Stay

HOTEL CHECK IN

WEINHOTEL FREYLICH ZAHN, GERMANY

Our intrepid writers booked a room in an ages-old German wine hotel, and why you should too.

BY JENNIFER MERRICK

AS SOON AS I READ the sign in my room that said, “Don’t smoke, drink wine!” I knew I was going to like the Weinhotel Freylich Zahn. Located in the picturesque town of Freyburg in the Saale-Unstrut wine region of Germany, this 26-room boutique hotel combines a chic modern design with a passion for the bounty of the vineyards surrounding it.

SAALE-UNSTRUT? NEVER HEARD OF IT.

Neither had I, but it’s the country’s northernmost wine region situated in eastern central Germany about three hours southwest of Berlin on the banks of the

Saale and Unstrut Rivers. Its viticulture dates back to the early 12th century, when monks founded the Pforta Abbey and established the Pfortenser Köppelberg vineyard, which is still there now.

Today, this region is known for its crisp, dry whites and sparkling wines that are distributed throughout Germany and around the world. Rotkäppchen Sekt (Little Red Riding Hood Sparkling Wine) is the most well-known, and visitors can tour the Rotkäppchen-Mumm winery in Freyburg that was established in 1856.

Also in Freyburg is one of the most scenic wineries I’ve had the pleasure of visiting. Herzoglicher Weinberg is perched on terraced slopes so steep, I couldn’t imagine how anyone could harvest the grapes. With its historic limestone buildings

and views of both the village below and Neuenburg Castle above, it’s a vinous fairyland.

SOUNDS LOVELY, BUT TELL ME MORE ABOUT THIS WINE HOTEL.

The hotel itself is relatively new, but the building, a historic granary, is hundreds of years old. The Zahn family, who had been running a local winery for 20 years, purchased it in 2019 to fulfill their dream of opening a small hotel that reflected their passion for the region’s wine. And it certainly does that. In addition to the tastefully designed modern rooms, dreamy beds and amenities like a flat-screen TV, Bluetooth speakers and espresso machine, there’s also a wine fridge in every room.

Photos courtesy cf: Freylich Zahn Hotel And Jennifer Merrick.

A WINE FRIDGE?

Yes, and it’s not a minibar because you won’t find beer, water or anything else but a curated collection of regional vino. But if that’s not enough, or you just want to sample before committing to a bottle, make your way to the self-service wine bar open 24/7. Using only your room card, you can access 40 of the local wines, and choose how much you’d like, making it easy to taste many of the varieties on offer.

WITH ALL THAT WINE, I’M GOING TO NEED SOME FOOD.

Definitely, and the meal we enjoyed at the hotel’s 51° Restaurant was one of the best of our trip. Named because it’s situated on the 51st parallel (which incidentally is the same latitude as Calgary and very north for winemaking), it serves up international fare mixed with regional specialities. And, of course, a considerable selection of wine, which can be produced in this northern latitude due to the microclimate in the river valleys, dry sunny weather and the fact that the stoned terraces release heat.

The restaurant is set in a cozy, cavernous space, reminiscent of a wine cave, but with neon accents, a mix that fits the modern oenophile theme of the hotel to a tee.

NEED TO KNOW

Very reasonable rates. Three dog-friendly rooms on the ground floor.

Bike and e-bike rentals available for an extra fee.

Breakfast is provided upon request but not included in the rates. Laundry facilities.

Free parking.

Sound-proofed rooms.

Check in is at 3PM and check out is at 11 PM (early check-in and late checkout subject to availability).

Outdoor terrace and indoor common areas for guests to enjoy.

I LOVE

WINE AND VISITING VINEYARDS, BUT IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE I CAN DO WHILE

I’M THERE?

Absolutely. Freyburg itself is a medieval village worth exploring with its ancient walls, historic church and, most impressively, the 11th century Neuenburg Castle, which played host to kings, emperors and poets.

Just a 15-minute drive away is the romantic town of Naumburg with its cobblestoned streets, tiny, vintage trams, and Gothic and Renaissance buildings. Its most famous is the Naumburg Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage site with so many treasures you could spend the entire day there and still not see them all. Not only is the architecture striking, vividly illustrating the stylistic and societal differences between the Romanesque and early Gothic eras, but there are also countless other gems, including the Uta sculpture that was the inspiration for Walt Disney’s evil queen in Snow White, the newly installed, controversial altarpiece painting and one of the oldest chained libraries in Europe with manuscripts dating back to 976 AD.

Instead of driving, you can opt to hike or bike from Freyburg to Naumburg, on the Saale-Unstrut’s extensive 700-kilometer network of trails.

All this sightseeing and activity might make you thirsty though. Good thing you’re staying in a wine hotel. freylich.ursprung.de

FIND YOUR PEACE

INNER AT ARMONY

IIMAGINE THIS: A stretch of soft, white sand and the feel of gentle waves washing over bare feet. The silhouette of jungle-covered mountain peaks etched into the distance. The sounds of a splash from an oceanfront infinity pool. And the sip of a perfectly crafted cocktail from the swim-up bar. An artfully designed moment of peace is a highly personalized one. At Armony Luxury Resort & Spa, A Marival Collection, guests are invited to explore and indulge in whatever inner peace means to them.

The newly renovated luxury all-inclusive resort sits on a stretch of sand overlooking the Bay of Banderas from the coveted perch of Punta Mita. Punta Mita is one of the most exclusive addresses along Mexico’s Pacific Coast – a posh playground of private villas, luxury hotels and seaside communities. The adults-only, award-winning Armony Luxury Resort & Spa, A Marival Collection, is the latest to be inducted into the five-star fold.

Armony Luxury Resort & Spa is not a new resort, but it is presenting in a fresh, new way. The resort has been redefined to be the first of Marival’s Adults-Only Collection. What originally started as a family-centric model has been fully transformed into an exclusive, adults-only destination. Tailored for adults looking to discover their inner peace, its guests take a journey to tranquility at this 268-key resort that has perfected the art of wellness, gastronomy and sustainability.

Armony Luxury Resort & Spa splashes onto the scene with a striking design. Think a tropical colour palette, multiple pools, an internationally inspired spa, a high-tech fitness centre, restaurants and bars, including a rooftop farm-to-table dining concept. Its standout services and exceptional attention to detail have earned it awards like AAA

Four Diamond status, TripAdvisor Travelers’ Choice and a spot on U.S. News & World Report’s Best Hotels list.

Armony Luxury Resort & Spas have created adult-only sanctuaries designed to give guests a true sense of place. Each guest room and suite is an oasis of tranquility and comfort. Rooms start at 366 square feet (34 square metres), while suites are even more generously sized. The Allure Suite in particular is a romantic escape thanks to its private infinity pool and beachside location. A full bathroom features a standalone tub, perfect for a deep, peaceful soak. All rooms are part of the all-inclusive plan (aside from room service) and feature a complimentary mini-bar.

A strong wellness program is integral to helping guests disconnect from the stressors of the outside world and reconnect with their inner peace. The Mélange Spa is designed for just that. The spa draws

inspiration from ancient healings and practices from around the world. Here, guests will find abundant energy and tradition, a place to rest and recharge, and a menu of treatments devoted to relaxation and self-discovery.

The spa’s signature Bali massage uses a combination of techniques, as well as seven different essential oils for mental relaxation. Guests can tuck into a decadent mud massage using organic ingredients like bell pepper, lime essential oil, coconut and noni extracts, all designed to nourish the skin and settle the mind.

Nourish is a keyword in the message of Armony Luxury Resort & Spa, as is highlighted through its four distinct restaurants. For all-day dining, guests can visit Essence, which serves breakfast, lunch and dinner in a casual, yet upscale setting. La Brise is beloved for its regional flavours served al fresco under a soaring palapa. At

Insú, guests embark on a culinary journey around the world sampling cocktails and snacks with international flair. But the restaurant that steals the show is Divum, the rooftop fine-dining restaurant with signature dinners that highlight a farm-to-table concept inspired by Mexico’s gastronomic heritage.

In fact, Divum is a prime example of Armony Luxury Resort & Spa’s commitment to sustainability. Divum’s signature dinners are all designed with locally sourced ingredients. Octopus tacos are marinated in local Guajillo chili and spices and heaped atop blue corn tortillas. Grilled pineapple is marinated with raicilla, a locally produced spirit. Boneless short rib is brushed with artisanal Cuastecomate mole, and a wine list has notable standouts from star wines produced in Mexico.

Tapping into inner peace is a highly personal journey and means a little something different to every traveler. But at Armony Luxury Resort & Spa, personalization is part of the package, and the journey to inner peace is not a difficult one to make.

For more information visit transat.com/en-CA/hotels/armonyluxury-resort-spa

LET US TAKE YOU THERE

Did you know that Transat takes care of all the details, including your taking flight with the awardwinning service on Air Transat, which Skytrax recognized as the world’s best leisure airline in 2023? Treat yourself and upgrade. Air Transat offers its guests the exclusive Club Class Cabin with priority check-in, seating, complimentary snacks, meal and wine, spirits and cocktails, spacious seats, 2 check-in luggage and more. Air Transat flies nonstop from Toronto to Puerto Vallarta all year-long.

THE CONRAD BORA BORA What to Pack for ...

CUE THE WHITE LOTUS theme song. I’m on a boat, but not just any boat. It’s a private water taxi that’s more kitted-out mini yacht. It whisked me from the jetty positioned just near the airstrip, and it’s slicing its way through turquoise surf to my destination, the private island of Motu To’opua. The captain steers us in, sidling up to a stylish dock, white-clad hosts waiting for me to alight. A welcome drink in hand, I saunter up to where I want to be: The Conrad Bora Bora.

Sound dreamy? It is, and the eye candy of the resort’s overwater bungalows reaching outward to the sea like flowers pulling away from their stems with swaying palms and sandy beaches in the background come into focus before we even weigh anchor.

But we’ve had many dreamy moments on this trip. I’ve been island-hopping and bluelagoon swimming (with sharks!) around Tahiti and French Polynesia, from the main island, Tahiti, and its capital Papeete, to Rangiroa and now Bora Bora. Our last luxe stop is one night only; best make the most of it.

While at check in, I’m distracted by live music that’s been captured by the breeze and carried upward from Upa Upa Lounge Bar, a few metres away. It’s open to the sea, with rainbow-brite Roche Bobois Mah Jong couches and let’s-be-lazy wicker chairs that beg someone to curl up in them, while sipping a cocktail and noshing on sushi and taking in the sunset. There’s live entertainment or DJ sets, depending on the night; not too late, as they tend to wrap the tunes at 8 pm, just in time for dinner.

And yes, I’ve booked said dinner at Iriatai, the resort’s French restaurant, so must join the desk manager waiting to take me in the golf cart to my overwater bungalow. My overwater bungalow! I’m trying to contain my excitement, a modicum of decorum that’s more difficult than I thought. What a rush, opening the door to a room seemingly floating, a generous bed facing the water, a terrace with slats in it for peeking through at the sea life below. Can I contain myself?

According to Vivian Vassos, this is an island getaway worth flying to the South Pacific for.

I want to strip naked right there, hit a sprint and take a half gainer off the end of the terrace.

Of course, I do a more dignified climb down the pool ladder, dipping a toe before making a commitment. The water’s warm, soothing almost. Salty enough to keep me afloat without making much effort. Docile black-tipped reef sharks and rays and all manner of neon sea life swim underneath, unperturbed by my shadow. I’m just another fish in the sea.

What to do tomorrow? Take a ride and explore on one of the vintage-look bikes outside my door? Hike the path to the lookout to see Mount Otemanu across the bay? Sit in the shade of the ancient Banyan Tree, said to be the offshoot of a goddess? Snorkel off my private terrace? Or maybe a ukulele lesson? Yes, to all of it. hilton.com/ en/hotels/pptbnci-conrad-bora-bora-nui

SKINCARE MUSINGS

Our editor’s essentials: Treat, soothe and nourish your hair and your skin

FOR MY NATURALLY CURLY HAIR: A dollop of Oribe Curl Gelée for shine and control in a dollarstore travel-size container. FOR MY EYES: Packing solid moisturizers with double duty action saves space in my carry-on only approved liquids bag. RoC Multi Correxion Revive + Glow Eye Balm is packed with vitamin C and hydrating peptides, to brighten and help cool and calm puffiness. FOR MY SKIN: Another great space saver: capsules. I was over the moon when I discovered Elizabeth Arden, the OG in capsule technology, now adds Vitamin C Ceramide Capsules Radiance Renewal Serum to what I call its compact skin-care arsenal. FOR MY SKIN: Almost every sunscreen I’ve tried either causes breakouts, or is too heavy. The best non-clogging, oil-free, lightweight SPF, in my opinion, is Clarins UV 50 Day Screen Multi-Protection with the company’s Anti-Pollution Complex. I’ve been using it for 15 years, and it’s never failed. ON THE AIRPLANE: When I had the good luck to spend five minutes virtually with Trinny Woodall, the mind behind Trinny London, a line of skincare and cosmetics targeted to those of us north of 40, the first thing I asked her was how to keep skin hydrated while flying. “P is for plane – and for peptides,” Woodall advised. “Look for peptide-rich serums or creams.” I took her advice and picked up a travel-sized version of her Plump Up Peptide HA Serum; next time I’ll double up with her Bounce Back Intense Peptide Moisturizer. The bonus? The packaging is refillable.

Cruise: News

SHIP SHAPE

From flying over the notorious Drake Passage to contemporary design in river cruising in Europe.

BY JUDI COHEN

Photos courtesy of: Uniworld; Scenic Cruises.

A WHOLE NEW UNIWORLD

Uniworld Boutique River Cruises has signed a bareboat charter agreement with Seaside Collection and Riverside Luxury Cruises for two river ships. Before coming onboard Riverside’s fleet, the ships were part of Crystal Cruises’ fleet as the Crystal Bach and Crystal Mahler. The super ship S.S. Victoria set sail in March 2024, while

S.S. Elisabeth will launch in 2025 with an all-Uniworld crew.

According to Ellen Bettridge, president and CEO of Uniworld Boutique River Cruises, “We’ve made cosmetic changes to the interiors of the 110-passenger S.S. Victoria through our signature Tiny Noticeable Touches, to evoke the quintessential Uniworld feeling that our guests know and love. Guests will find renowned artwork such as Julian Opie’s ‘We Swam Amongst the Fishes,’ and trademark touches and décor via our branded pillows, towels, in-room amenities and more.”

On the latest contemporary design, Bettridge added: “Our loyal guests communicate their appreciation for our unique ships and that no two vessels or vacations with us are exactly alike.” The contemporary design of the S.S. Victoria, she adds, “does that and more with the largest suites on the European rivers, some featuring walk-in closets and fireplaces, incredible new room designs including our first-ever twobedroom suite, and showstopping elements like floor-to-ceiling windows in all rooms to enjoy the passing scenery.” This ship, she says, is suited for the affluent traveller seeking

high-end luxury, “and, of course, a 5-star river cruise experience with impeccable service.”

S.S. Victoria is in good company. Some of the best contemporary designed river cruise ships include those by Riverside Cruises, AmaWaterways and Scenic.

FLIGHT OF PASSAGE

Nearly 90 per cent of Antarctic-bound travellers arrive by cruise ship after sailing the Drake Passage, and it is something of a rite of passage. While it was once only possible to visit Antarctica sailing aboard a ship from either Chile or Argentina and risk being seasick crossing the infamous Drake Passage, some cruise lines are now offering Fly/Cruise options to spare your nerves.

This suits some travellers who are also looking for a shorter cruise – the crossing of the Drake Passage between Ushuaia, Argentina, and the South Shetland Islands typically takes two days – without compromising time on or off the ship, keeping the trips between 8 - 10 days, and others wishing to avoid possible seasickness. Instead, charter flights allow guests to take a two-hour flight from Punta Arenas, Chile, to King George Island in the South Shetland Islands. From there, you then cruise to reach the Antarctic continent or other islands.

Note: The operation of the flights is dependent on visibility and the prevailing winds and, particularly in Antarctica, the cruise lines are at the mercy of Mother Nature. Since passengers may be kept on board a ship longer than expected due to the inability for flights to operate, or overnight at hotels in Punta Arenas while awaiting the flight’s return, cruise lines recommend booking flexible onward travel plans, or booking air directly with the cruise lines.

TIP: Weight restrictions for baggage are strict with some charter flights allowing only a 15 kg checked bag and a 5 kg carry-on bag. Check with your cruise line on the weight restrictions. You can leave excess baggage with the cruise line or hotel in Punta Arenas and pick it up after the cruise. Fly/ cruises are offered in one or both directions between Chile and the Antarctic by Quark Expeditions, Silversea, Scenic Cruises, Antarctica21 and, beginning in November 2024, Lindblad Expeditions.

A TASTE OF THE BEST AT SEA

Beautiful accommodations, wonderful shore excursions and fabulous entertainment – all key elements of any cruise, but let’s be honest –great dining tops the list.

BY LIZ FLEMING

PRACTICE YOUR SKILLS

When it comes to fabulous culinary learning experiences, it’s hard to beat Regent Seven Seas’ Culinary Arts Kitchen. Created by world traveller, executive chef and director of culinary enrichment, Kathryn Kelly, the programs offered on board Regent’s Seven Seas Grandeur, Seven Seas Splendor and Seven Seas Explorer ships are hands-on and immersive, offering instruction from top-notch chefs and a true taste of the local culture. Most often, classes, which start at as little as $89, begin with a chef-led shore excursion that takes guests to local markets, farms, greenhouses or even restaurants and then culminates in a cooking extravaganza in the ship’s Culinary Arts Kitchen. There, pairs of guests cook together at professional workstations equipped with a sink, cooktop and an array of top-quality knives, pans and cooking equipment that would make Gordon Ramsay jealous. Of course, the

all-inclusive options on all Regent’s ships are spectacular, from French to American Steakhouse to lighter al fresco fare. Brunch on the breezy aft deck at La Veranda, for example, is a perfect way to start your morning. rssc.com

GO GASTRONOMIC

La Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is a prestigious international gastronomic society dedicated to fine cuisine and membership is open only to those possessing world-class culinary skill and knowledge. AmaWaterways and President Rudi Schreiner are, of course, members as are all AmaWaterways ships in Europe. As a result, Ama guests enjoy a culinary experience second to none, complimented by carefully selected wines, with different vintages offered every day, enabling guests to sample all the favourites of the sommelier. And because there’s nothing better for a

Photos courtesy of: Regent Seven Seas; Amawaterways; Scenic Cruises.

true food enthusiast than a seat at a chef’s table, AmaWaterways welcomes guests on its European and Egyptian itineraries to its very own Chef’s Table, an outstanding experience in an intimate environment that turns the satellite kitchen into the evening’s entertainment, as a multi-course meal is prepared just steps away. amawaterways.ca

ADD A LITTLE SALT

S.A.L.T. is more than just a seasoning on board Silversea ships. An acronym for Sea And Land Taste, it’s a culinary program designed by Adam Sachs, former editor-inchief of Saveur Magazine, to enable guests aboard Silver Moon, Silver Dawn and Silver Nova, to engage with local food culture through both immersive shore excursions and creative on-board dining. From learning to make pastry at a Sicilian pasticceria to touring vineyards in Wales, S.A.L.T. brings guests into the very heart of each destination’s food scene. Back on board, in addition to the incredible food experiences created by the S.A.L.T. Kitchen, master mixologists are on hand in the S.A.L.T. Bar, ready to teach guests to let rich, local whiskies permeate their senses or savour the unique blend of flavours in a handcrafted cocktail. silversea.com

SAVOUR AT SEA

Whether you sail on the Scenic Eclipse, Scenic Spirit or one of the Scenic Space-Ships, you’ll be treated to multi-cultural gastronomic adventures at every opportunity. You’ll love the contrast between the contemporary French fine dining at Lumière restaurant and Champagne Bar, the elegant Elements main restaurant, the more casual Yacht Club and the authentic cuisine on offer at the Night Market @Koko’s where you must try the sushi! Graze all day at Azure Bar and Café, enjoying specialty coffees, handmade pizzas,

macarons, biscotti and even brandy, port and more. Everything is all-inclusive – both meals and beverages. Perhaps you’d enjoy a private dining experience with a select group of your friends in one of several secluded areas. Love to cook? Book a Scenic Epicuré culinary masterclass! scenic.ca

BONUS! Set sail for Fiji with Jann Arden: It may not be about food, but if music be the food of love…How much fun would it be to sail with the Canadian musician across Fiji and the South Pacific? Book the nine-day, October 2024 “Cultures of Fiji and the South Pacific with Jann Arden” itinerary aboard the Scenic Eclipse II, a 6-star ultra-luxury, all-inclusive discovery yacht, add a one-night pre-cruise stay in Lautoka, Fiji, and choose air-inclusive packages. Book at scenic.ca/jannarden. Wouldn’t it be insensitive not to?

Cruise: Indigenous Travel

FROM TUNDRA TO TABLE

Pristine arctic waters, majestic blue icebergs and the corduroy brown landscapes provide the backdrop for a one-of-a-kind Inuit fusion dining experience.

BY JUDI COHEN

fROM THE MOMENT

of embarkation on Quark Expeditions’ newest ship, Ultramarine, in Iqaluit, Nunavut, I was hungry to learn about the culture and history of the Inuit people in the Arctic and soaked in the presentations by the cruise line’s onboard experts. “Tundra to Table” amplified my learning with a gastronomic exploration of culture and tradition.

Available only on select Arctic sailings on Ultramarine, the Indigenous culinary experience is one I was lucky to get to savour. The four-course dinner also involved learning about sustainability and ethical consumption through the lens of two Inuit chefs, Miki Siegstad and Peter Berthelsen, from Sisimiut and Nuuk, Greenland.

Trained in Greenland, chefs Miki and Peter shared personal stories about the Inuit fusion cuisine they meticulously crafted as each course was presented. At the heart of the Tundra to Table experience were the sustainably sourced local ingredients: meat and fish harvested by Inuit hunters and fishermen; flowers and herbs gathered on the land; and traditional Inuit tableware.

Miki and Peter assembled our appetizer course of prawns served on chunks of sea ice. Using tweezers, they placed each flower, herb and crouton just so on top of prawns, pickled red onions and roasted Arctic thyme mayo. An equally impressive appetizer on another night was snow crab served with snow crab bisque, and crudité of beets, fennel and flowers.

Our culinary adventure was narrated by Miki, who pointed out that the main ingredients in our meal are organic and have

been living in the wild. Fresh baked bread with flower- and sea salt-crusted chilled butter served on a flat stone were placed on each table, which was set with seal-fur napkin rings and driftwood. The next course was thyme-smoked Atlantic cod with pickled angelica, broken gel of beetroot and turnip crudité. A refreshing herb snow was placed on top.

For our main course, we had a choice of Arctic red fish or muskox confit with honeyglazed carrots, risotto, mushroom purée and a blanquette sauce. On another evening, the main course options were slow-cooked reindeer with Greenlandic thyme, with baby onions, king trumpet mushrooms and fresh crème and herb oil. While animals like sheep and lamb can mostly be found in South Greenland, reindeer and muskox are hunted everywhere except for South Greenland.

Dessert was a traditional apple cake served with apple compote and burnt white chocolate, salted caramel, white chocolate sauce with Arctic Labrador tea. Peter commented that apple cake is a tradition for birthdays and celebrations that was adopted from Danish culture and every household has their own recipe. His grandparents baked apple cake to welcome guests into their homes.

Following a hearty standing applause and loud expressions of gratitude for our chefs’ creativity and candid sharing of stories about Inuit foods, Miki and Peter stayed to engage with guests and share their personal journeys.

I was intrigued by Peter’s distinct tattoos on his arms and fingers. He explained how tattoos have been part of Inuit culture for centuries and each one has personal, cultural and symbolic meaning. He pointed to his fingers and knuckles and explained that

each Inuit symbol represented elements of his personal life history and his connection to community and family. His arm tattoos symbolized his personal achievements, spiritual beliefs and rites of passage.

A few days later, as Miki and I stood on Beechey Island (where Sir John Franklin’s Northwest Expedition wintered, and the bodies of three crewmen are buried), Miki shared how important it is for him to share his Greenlandic Inuit culture. His family lives in Sisimiut, Ilulisatt and Nuuk. Miki shared his earliest memories of watching his parents prepare for the holidays, and fishing with his father for Arctic char and cod. He recalled hunting with Peter for reindeer in their 20s and bringing the entire reindeer back to Nuuk to share with Peter’s family. They met in 2011 at culinary school and have cooked together since. Aside from the food, one of the highlights at each Tundra to Table experience is sitting down afterwards with guests for questions and answers. They are looking forward to this year’s Arctic season (June to September) on Ultramarine when they will return, along with Canadian Inuit chefs, to delight and educate passengers with their Inuit fusion creations. Miki and Peter bring soul and meaning to the food at Tundra to Table. It was a privilege to dine at their floating table aboard Ultramarine in the Canadian High Arctic and to learn so much from them throughout the expedition.

If You Sail: Quark Expeditions’ Ultramarine is a 199-passenger ice-class expedition ship. The company has been a global leader in polar adventures for more than 30 years. Tundra to Table can be booked and paid for ahead of your expedition or on the ship.

quarkexpeditions.com

Photos courtesy of: Stephen Desroches/Quark Expeditions.

A sailing fit for a QUEEN

Think Cunard’s iconic ocean liner is only about the TransAtlantic crossing? Think again. Vawn Himmelsbach sails the Norwegian Fjords on one of the grand dames of the seas.

pACKING FOR A CUNARD CRUISE takes a bit of effort. For one thing, there are black-andwhite balls and themed gala nights, like the Roaring Twenties.

I’ve always prided myself on my ability to pack a carry-on for just about any trip. But, with a couple of cocktail dresses and pairs of heels – along with outdoor gear and hiking boots for Norway – I had to admit defeat and make a last-minute trip to a department store to buy a rather large suitcase for my voyage on the Queen Mary 2

The iconic British cruise line is one of the few that has a dress code, and there are at

least two gala evenings on every seven-night voyage. Men can even rent a tux or pick up a bow tie from one of the ship’s boutiques. Fortunately, the Grill suites come with a walk-in closet, so there’s plenty of room for all those heels – and hiking boots.

There’s no pressure to dress to the nines if you don’t want to. But wearing ripped jeans or yoga pants would seem sacrilegious in QM2’s split-level art deco lobby, with its grand piano, sweeping staircase and bellhops decked out in red and gold. Or while sipping Laurent-Perrier La Cuvée among the elegant wood furnishings of the Champagne bar. Or while listening to a live orchestra in the Queens Room – the largest ballroom at sea, dripping with crystal chandeliers – while

ordering a Queen Mary 2 cocktail made with Cunard’s very own 3 Queens Gin. Or while searching for the secret Homer Simpson homage among the ship’s 5,000 pieces of bespoke artwork.

While the original Queen Mary is retired, QM2 hearkens back to the glamour and romance of the Golden Age of Travel. It feels as though you might brush past Frank Sinatra or Audrey Hepburn in the corridors – just a few of the famous faces that have made Transatlantic crossings with Cunard.

“We do pay homage to our history a great deal with the themed balls and the dress-up nights. It’s all part of Cunard and who we are and what we stand for,” says Amanda Reid, QM2’s entertainment director. “That

Photos courtesy of: Cunard

air of elegance and sophistication permeates around the ship, and the guests absolutely love it.”

It attracts modern-day celebrities, too. Ed Sheeran recorded his third album, Divide, in a temporary recording studio on QM2. Meryl Streep starred in the movie Let Them All Talk, which was filmed during a Transatlantic crossing. And, before entering service in 2004, QM2 was christened by none other than HRH Queen Elizabeth II.

planetarium. The opulent Royal Court theatre hosts musicals and revues, and –available exclusively onboard QM2 – tailored theatrical performances by the famed Royal Shakespeare Company.

Then there’s the 20,000-square-foot spa and health club, which was recently re-launched as Mareel Wellness & Beauty, co-created by Cunard and wellness pioneer Canyon Ranch. The spa concept features ocean-inspired treatments and an aqua

restaurant. If you’re staying in a Grill suite, you have a dedicated table throughout your voyage, which means you can dine whenever you want (no early or late seatings). You also have access to a private Grills lounge, outdoor terrace and dedicated concierge service. But even the main Britannia Restaurant is downright grand, with a balcony-style mezzanine, linen tablecloths and white-gloved waitstaff serving fivecourse meals on Wedgwood fine china. “All

“That air of elegance and sophistication permeates around the ship, and the guests absolutely love it.”

Cunard Line got its start in 1840 by Canadian Samuel Cunard in Halifax as a Transatlantic liner service. Since that time, the company has launched nearly 180 ships and even served in the Second World War, when the Queens were used as troop carriers. Queen Mary was dubbed the “Grey Ghost,” with her impressive speed and size as an ocean liner, transporting thousands of troops during the war.

Today, QM2 is the world’s last remaining ocean liner, which means she has a thicker hull that slices through water in rough seas – so she’s incredibly smooth, even at fast speeds. When she launched in 2004, she took over sailing the regular Transatlantic route formerly operated by Queen Elizabeth 2.

I travelled aboard QM2 on a Norwegian fjords itinerary, which offered plenty of time off the ship to explore Norway’s towering fjords, colourful towns and the country’s oldest Viking stave church. But the ship is well equipped for longer Transatlantic passages when you don’t have an opportunity for excursions. “It’s part of the ship’s identity,” says Reid. “Before the onset of air travel, the only way to get from one side of the Atlantic to the other was by ship. Southampton to New York is a bit of a journey, so the idea was to make it special.”

That tradition continues. There are daily enrichment lectures by historians, explorers and other guest experts in the Illuminations theatre, which transforms into a full-sized

therapy centre that includes a hydrotherapy pool, meditation room and sound therapy.

In the tradition of Transatlantic crossings, there’s even a kennel onboard, complete with a Liverpool lamp post and New York fire hydrant to make pooches feel at home.

Cunard ships have several stateroom categories; the Queens Grill suites are the largest and most prestigious, furnished in a modern art deco style. They come with a personal butler, pre-dinner canapés and personalized stationery, plus access to the private Queens Grill restaurant. The same goes for guests staying in Princess Grill suites, with access to the private Princess Grill

of our crew go through our White Star Academy, which makes us unique,” says David Shepherd, QM2’s hotel general manager. “And training is always ongoing.”

That White Star service is obvious throughout, from Cunard’s 14 bars and clubs, to its 10 cafés and restaurants – and especially during afternoon tea, a daily ritual onboard. Accompanied by a tinkling piano or string trio, the white-gloved service includes classic scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam (but don’t miss the redand-black Cunard macarons).

Service reigns. Best of all, with private transfers available to and from the ship, you don’t have to worry about hauling around a rather large suitcase that’s pushing airline weight limits. If you’re going to be sailing on a Queen, it’s worth the effort to feel like one.

If You Sail: Cunard has three ships: Queen Mary 2 (2,691 passengers); Queen Victoria (1,988 passengers); and Queen Elizabeth (2,068 passengers). A fourth ship, Queen Anne, launches in May 2024. It’s not an all-exclusive experience; drink packages come at an additional charge, as do excursions and various add-ons, though the higher your room category, the more inclusions. Cunard can set up pre- and post-stay hotels, as well as private transfers. For sailings out of Southampton, for example, you can stay at the Conrad London St. James, located in the former Queen Anne’s Chambers, which seems fitting for a voyage on one of Cunard’s Queens. cunard.com

BOLD TRAVELLER + REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES

REGENT,

UNRIVALED

WWHAT IS IT ABOUT an

all-inclusive vacation? A holiday that allows you to experience the ultimate luxury, to just sit back and really relax, not a care in the world. But not all inclusive holidays are made equal.

If you’re already a fan of the resort concept, allow us to introduce you to one of the most all-inclusives you can imagine –and the bonus? This one’s at sea. For more than 30 years, Regent Seven Seas Cruises, the world’s leading luxury cruise line, has offered its guests its Unrivaled Experience. And the Regent standard truly is all-in – the all-inclusive unrivaled experience begins before you even come onboard, with roundtrip air and airport transfers included. When you arrive, you’ll find no hidden extras, no surcharge for the best dining spot on the ship, no battling for the wifi password, no worries about working out the tip for the barman or the butler.

No worries, indeed. Unlike many upscale all-inclusives on land, the ambience on board a Regent ship is more akin to a boutique hotel. Attentive service, greater staff to guest ratio, never overcrowded, with a maximum of between 490 to 750 guests across the sixship Regent portfolio. And then there are the suites. The ships feature all-suite, all-balcony accommodations. Imagine the luxury of unpacking once but having the experience of visiting different destinations each day over the course of your journey, and then returning to your spacious home-away-fromhome. From the mini-bar stocked to your liking, to the marble bathrooms, walk-in closets and cozy sitting areas – and the largest balconies at sea – you’ll always feel there’s plenty of room for everything.

Speaking of room, save some for the diverse dining options on board all of

Regent’s ships. This is where the all-inclusive truly is unrivaled. Culinary travellers will be able to savour some of the best cuisine at sea, from Prime 7, the classic steakhouse, to al fresco dining at La Veranda, and the grand ballroom feeling of the lavish Compass Rose, available on all Regent ships, to French fare on board Seven Seas Splendor, Seven Seas Explorer, Seven Seas Voyager and the latest to join the fleet, Seven Seas Grandeur, and the Pan-Asian flavours of Pacific Rim on Splendor, Explorer and Grandeur, there’s a taste for every palette.

When we’re on the water, our bodies, and our minds, are better for it. Power walk on the outdoor jogging track and breathe in the sea air under sunshiney skies, ride a stationary bike with floor to ceiling views of the ocean at the state-of-the-art fitness centre that also

features TechnoGym strength equipment, or take a moment – or two – for mindfulness or massage at the Serene Spa & Wellness haven.

Contemporary art lovers will appreciate the comprehensive 1600-piece collection, including works by Picasso and Rauschenberg, and perhaps the ship’s most exquisite object – a Fabergé Egg, the first to have a permanent home at sea. In fact, Sarah Fabergé, the great-granddaughter of Peter Carl Fabergé, is Grandeur’s Godmother, and christened the ship in December 2023. Take a self-guided tour at your leisure, with the “Art Experience,” via the new Regent Mobile App.

Regent is also a leader when it comes to ports of call. The unrivaled experience stays with you when you step off Grandeur or any of the line’s ships. More than 5000 culturally immersive shore excursions tailored across 550 destinations are available, unlimited and free to every guest.

It’s an exciting time to set sail with Regent Seven Seas Cruises. Seven Seas Grandeur made a splash at her debut in November 2023 and, with only 746 guests, she is among the most spacious sailing vessels per passenger on the water. Designed by the renowned Studio DADO, known for its visionary approach to hospitality and boutique cruise interiors, since her launch, Grandeur has made the transatlantic crossing with ease, sailing the Caribbean and the Mediterranean. During 2024’s spring and early summer months, Grandeur embarks on a Mediterranean odyssey and, over the course of multiple voyages, lists among her ports of call as Rome, Monte Carlo, Venice, Istanbul and Barcelona.

August will see Grandeur’s northward journey, arriving in New York City, where she’ll then go on to make her debut in New England and Canada, making stops at such quintessential coastal cities as Halifax, Corner Brook, Newport and Boston.

If it's the turquoise waters of the Caribbean that are calling, Grandeur can take you there. Celebrate 2025 with a trip around the Caribbean, onward along Mexico and through the storied Panama Canal. From lesser-travelled ports such as Tortola, British Virgin Islands, and Gustavia, St. Barts, to the excitement of Mexico’s Sea of Cortez, Cabo San Lucas and Los Angeles, Grandeur takes you there, unrivaled.

Bon Voyage!

WHAT TO BOOK NOW

Grandeur may be the newest ship to join the fleet, but all the Regent Seven Seas Cruise ships are spectacular. Here, a few more truly all-inclusive journeys that will satisfy the globetrotter in you.

FOR ADVENTURE SEEKERS

Summer 2024: Board Seven Seas Explorer for an Alaskan sailing, over 7 or 14 nights between Seward, Alaska, and Vancouver, B.C. Awe-inspiring glaciers, fjords, waterfalls and wildlife are only the beginning of this natural wonder destination, best explored along the spectacular Pacific coastline.

FOR OLD-WORLD GLAMOUR HUNTERS –WITHOUT THE CROWDS

September through November 2024: Seven Seas Voyager sails the Mediterranean at a time when the weather is near perfect and tourist crowds have dissipated, making unfettered exploration of some of Europe’s hidden gems an exceptional luxury. Five voyages, from 10 to 12 nights, count Portimão, Portugal; Sardinia, Italy; Igoumenitsa, Greece; Rijeka, Croatia and Ephesus, Turkey, among the ports of call.

FOR WINTER ESCAPE ARTISTS

December 2024: Just in time to escape winter, Seven Seas Mariner sails to the Caribbean and Panama Canal, making stops at Roatán, Honduras; Harvest Caye, Belize; Costa Maya, Mexico; Cozumel, Mexico; Key West, Florida; Miami, Florida; Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic; San Juan, Puerto Rico; Gustavia, St. Barts; Roseau, Dominica; St. John’s, Antigua; Great Stirrup Cay, Bahamas; Kingston, Jamaica; and George Town, Cayman Islands.

FOR BUCKET-LIST MAKERS

Kick off 2025 on board Seven Seas Splendor, beginning in Rio de Janeiro, where she starts her South American season. Explore diverse destinations and their cultures, including São Paulo, Brazil; Buenos Aires, Argentina; Punta Arenas, Chile; Montevideo, Uruguay; and Itajaí, Brazil.

BOOK NOW: RSSC.com

Photography: Whales and dolphins in the Bay of Fundy/ Tourism Nova Scotia / Drone photographer. Lobster Experience by Nova

Benjamin Bridge Vineyards Tourism Nova Scotia / Photographer: Aaron McKenzie Fraser

NOVA

Succulent fresh seafood, white sand beaches, world class golf, whalewatching adventures, ocean vistas… What’s not to love about Nova Scotia?

Discover how you can do more in Canada’s Ocean Playground.

THERE’S SOMETHING SOOTHING to the soul that comes from being so close to the sea. The sounds of waves and whirling birds overhead, the salty air that fills your lungs with a healthy dose of deep breaths, the people that have been calmed by living alongside the ocean’s heartbeat.

In Nova Scotia, this is just another day. But Nova Scotians are generous by nature, and want to share all there is to do in this wondrous ocean playground they call home.

A DAY TO REMEMBER

Start with a wake-up call at the water’s edge. Sip coffee from your porch at Quarterdeck Beachside Villas and Grill, and have a soft, sensory entry to your day while listening to the waves kiss Summerville’s stretch of white sandy beach. This is ASMR therapy of the ultimate kind.

If you’re a wine lover, your terroir lexicon will no doubt include such words as Bordeaux, Chianti or Napa Valley, but it should also include Tidal Bay – this is Nova Scotia’s signature wine. Nova Scotia is a coolclimate wine-making region, where grapes are grown predominantly in the Annapolis Valley region, which borders the world famous Bay of Fundy. Known for a balance of crisp, fresh-green fruit, acid, minerality and no more than 11 per cent alcohol, the grapes used in the making of Tidal Bay have to meet strict criteria and of course have to be 100 per cent Nova Scotia-grown. There are more than a dozen wineries in the province that meet the high, award-winning standards of the Tidal Bay appellation.

Take a trip to the Yarmouth and Acadian Shores area on the Southwestern tip of the province to the community of Clare and Baie Sainte Marie, where you can revel in Acadian culture amongst the residents, the majority of whom are bilingual. This year, the region is hosting the Congrès Mondial Acadien (August 18-24) which will bring to the region Acadian diaspora from across the world for nine days of celebrations, discovery and family reunions. Discover the warm and

welcoming people from this rural corner of Nova Scotia, as well as their tastes and traditions, as they celebrate more than 400 years of Acadian history! But keep in mind that no matter what time of year you visit, there’s always lively traditional music (you’re always welcome at a kitchen party!), fantastic regional food (go digging for clams) and general conviviality.

FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD

Barrington, Nova Scotia, is the Lobster Capital of Canada so we’d be remiss if we didn’t talk about lobster! When it’s this fresh,

cracking those claws and dipping them in warm drawn butter is a tasty, briny explosion that needs no other accompaniment.

Fished year-round from the bracing waters of the Atlantic, the crustacean plays a starring role on the Nova Scotia Lobster Trail, where more than 30 foodie establishments, from eat-with-your-hands delights to high-end, how would you like your lobster cooked, dining experiences, are featured along the route.

But don’t stop there. Mussels, oysters, crabs and clams are also on the menu. Steamed in white wine, infused in a chowder,

Tourism Nova Scotia

/ Photographer: Dean Casavechia. Canadian Museum of Immigration / Tourism Nova Scotia. 16th hole Golf Cliff by Cabot Cape Breton/ Matt Hann.

shucked with the sea’s salty water still on the shells…there are so many ways to indulge. And then there are the scallops. Digby is renowned the world over for these delicate, buttery shellfish, plucked straight from the waters off the iconic Bay of Fundy. There’s nothing quite like it.

And did we mention the region’s culinary diversity? It’s not just about seafood. The province is also home to an abundance of farm-fresh produce and markets to complement the offerings of the area’s awardwinning wineries, breweries, cideries and distilleries. Did you know that in Halifax,

it’s a right of passage to grab a Donair – the official food of the city. Brought here by a Greek immigrant in the 1970s, it’s been a staple only made better with Lebanese and Turkish influences.

Speaking of immigration, Halifax and the seaport at Pier 21 was the gateway to Canada, welcoming more than a million people who crossed the Atlantic ocean looking for a better life from all over the world from the 1920s to the 1970s. The Canadian Immigration Museum at Pier 21 is now a fascinating museum with an extensive library of records of those who came through

its doors. The seaport district itself now welcomes thousands of cruise passengers annually who are looking for a glimpse into one of Canada’s most popular ports of call, Nova Scotia’s capital city of Halifax and beyond, particularly from April through November.

GO DEEPER – THE INDIGENOUS EXPERIENCE

For more than 10,000 years, this rugged, sea-swept peninsula has been home to the Mi'kmaq people who have enriched this land, Mi’kma’ki, with their legends, art, music, spirituality, history, and language.

Take a Mi’kmaq Medicine Walk in Membertou on Unama’ki – Cape Breton Island, guided by a First Nations cultural ambassador. This elemental take on wellbeing and traditional medicines enriches the mind while this one-of-a-kind stroll through the tree-lined trails is Nova Scotia’s answer to forest bathing for the spirit. Visit Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site where you can paddle ancient, storied canoe routes to discover petroglyph carvings in stone. Or take a guided Mi’kmaw cultural walk on Goat Island to share stories, feasts and music of the traditional way of life.

FOUR SEASON SENSATION

Think Nova Scotia is just for the summer? Think again. The Nova Scotia Lobster Crawl Festival is held annually throughout the month of February, while some of the best winter surfing can be experienced at Lawrencetown Beach from October to March. Experience the splendour of a Nova Scotia winter in a new way – take a beach walk, go on a fat bike ride on the ocean floor, snowshoe a favourite trail with incredible snow-covered views, or take a ride in the only gondola in Atlantic Canada to the top of Cape Smokey. After a day outdoors, enjoy a meal of comfort food at a nearby restaurant paired with local craft beverages, and settle into a seaside cottage or yurt, cabin nestled in the trees, or geodesic dome with views of the stars.

POSTCARD OF THE WEEK

THE INSTANT ESCAPISM FIX. FOR PEOPLE WHO LOVE TO TRAVEL

SIGN UP FOR OUR WEEKLY E-POSTCARD AT BOLDTRAVELLER.CA/NEWSLETTER-SIGN-UP

The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque Photography: Phillip Glickman

BOLD Traveller

Ia Orana!

SPRING/SUMMER 2024

/ Feeding the body and the soul in The Palm Beaches | A foodie pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela / Truffle-hunting at Italy’s Tenuta di Murlo / Where the Olympic surfers will hang 10 in French Polynesia

Greetings from Tahiti, its mountainous landscape, black-sand beaches, crystal seas and coral reefs.

Photography: Exploring Tahiti coastline by Tahiti Tourisme / © Grégoire Le Bacon

Who says Florida’s only for winter? For Vivian Vassos, feeding the body and the soul in The Palm Beaches is always in season.

Photo courtesy of: The Boca Raton Yacht Club

Worth Avenue Clock Tower, Palm Beach

Photo courtesy of: The Palm Beaches

HEN LILLY PULITZER opened her jewel-box of an orange juice stand in the Via Mizner off Worth Avenue in Palm Beach, it was an instant hit. Pulitzer and her husband Herbert owned a crop of orange groves, and it only made sense that she used them to her advantage. A trailblazing entrepreneur and yet original housewife of Palm Beach, Pulitzer was often seen behind the counter, squeezing the juice herself. Alas, it caused quite the splatter, and Pulitzer found her couture couldn’t quite take the spills.

Necessity is the mother of invention, and Pulitzer seized on the idea that colourful pops of pattern would mask any mess. A meeting with a dressmaker, a pick of prints, and the Lilly Pulitzer print was born. She and her employees would wear “The Lilly” shift dresses – flowers! flamingos! fabulous! – while they worked, and the juice stand’s customers went gaga for them. Pulitzer, socialite, entrepreneur, and now, suddenly, designer. It was in America’s “first resort destination” after all; her friends Jackie Kennedy and her sister Lee Radziwill were in-the-season residents and clients, as were the Rockefeller, Vanderbilt and Whitney women.

I learned this, not from Wikipedia, but from a walking tour worth taking with Rick Rose, a dandy of a local, Worth Avenue historian and author of Palm Beach: The Essential Guide to America’s Legendary Resort Town. Pulitzer’s dresses still sell like hot cakes (plus decor, wallpaper, accessories, you name it), he adds, from a much larger space at 240 Worth Avenue. If you’ve been watching Palm Royale, Apple TV+’s fictional take on society life in 1960s and 1970s Palm Beach, you’ve already been getting an eyeful of the cacophony of colour, print, pattern – a veritable style buffet of joyous, rainbow-brite dressing – which won’t show a drop of that

spilled Green Goddess dressing. And we still love it.

But The Palm Beaches, the county in which the city of Palm Beach rests its pretty, well-coiffed head, is more than oranges and high society. Its juice also lies in the fresh takes on its coastal cuisine and contemporary art scenes.

DOING DELRAY BEACH

Florida, for me, is all about pink, and blue, and turquoise, and yellow. The sea and sky play with the sun, bouncing off the peaks of the waves and the pavements of the streets. It’s a place where I spent many winters with family as a young adult and beyond; like a warm hug that comes with sand in my hair and freckles on my nose. The Atlantic is where I’ve dipped my toes most often, the east coast calling me with its wild green water, diverse people and welcoming culture. Breathe it all in, the salt in the air and the fresh-squeezed citrus in your glass. It feeds the body and the soul.

Besides, where else can you go where it’s perfectly fashionable to wear white after Labour Day? On this day, however, I’m braving the rain – a rare occurrence – at a rooftop bar enjoying a craft cocktail. And why not? This rooftop, the Rosewater, is perched like a cherry on The Ray Hotel Delray Beach, an art-filled boutique Curio Collection by Hilton hotel in the city’s Pineapple Grove Arts District, and under the exacting culinary gaze of the Michelinstarred chef Akira Back. Spin in your barstool (or, when the weather’s cooperating, your poolside sunbed), and get a full 360 of town. But when there’s Back you can’t help but want to eat. So, down we go, streetside, skipping over puddles and into his buzzy eponymous restaurant adjacent to the hotel.

It’s noisy, yes, but in a good way. People

are engaged in the conversation and the food, which swings to Japanese. The sushi bar, with its modern art backdrop, swirls of what look to be tie-dyed corrugated metal slices undulating over the heads of the chefs while they work on creating the perfect bite of hamachi or making a Hot Mess – roll, that is. The name and the ingredients belie the chef’s sense of humour: Crab tempura and sashimi poke topped with spicy ponzu aioli; but it’s not all about the fruits of the sea; try the Cow-Wow role, a twist on down-home barbecue, with it’s braised short rib and crunchy crown of Asian slaw. Fusion at its best.

Back is not the only star at The Ray. My room is decorated with Barbie photos – not the film, but the dolls. It’s camp and fun and lends a lighthearted air to an already airy room. There’s a tiny balcony where I can take my morning coffee, but alas the rain keeps me indoors. Considering the lobby feels more like a light-filled living room, that’s just fine. Before heading out for an art tour, there’s a minute to get lost in the optical illusion that is Anthony James’ “Portal Icosahedron,” an oversized sphere (sort of) made from glass and metal and neon, 20 sides of windows or is it windowless? It absorbs you, like a portal, you see yourself on the other side. Out of body? Perhaps, but this mind is craving more visual stimulation.

We spend the morning exploring the rooms at The Cornell Art Museum, in Old School Square. It is, indeed, housed in an old school, circa 1913. Exhibits are constantly rotating, but the curators endeavour to feature Florida artists, as well as works that are as interactive as they are intriguing. In one room, there is a treelike sculpture, a giant heart at its centre like something out of Dr Seuss, with a smaller rotating heart; spin it, follow to where the arrow lands, and “read

This spread, clockwise from right: The Breakers Palm Beach iconic lobby; The White Elephant pool; the author at Dada restaurant, Delray Beach; The Ray Hotel Delray Beach lobby; Akira Back tuna pizza and taco selection; Brazilian Court; “Lady of the House” painting, the lobby at The White Elephant.

Photos courtesy of: The Breakers Palm Beach; The White Elephant; Vivian Vassos; The Ray Hotel Delray Beach; Akira Back Restaurant; The Palm Beaches.

and embrace your spiritual message,” writes the artist Claudia La Bianca. According to my spin, my heart is looking to embrace alignment: “Align to the space of inspiration & connection to all that is you.” I’ll take it.

After a visit to The Arts Warehouse, an arts incubator with studios and exhibitions, we get a Delray Beach driveby tour (the rain has not let up), and catch a glimpse of some of the more than 40 street murals that decorate the walls of buildings throughout the city.

It’s the walls that have got my attention at Dada, a restaurant and bar dedicated to surrealism and the Dada movement. A few steps up the veranda of this 1920s corner-lot bungalow feels very Florida to me, but then

of them, in my opinion, is Daniel Boulud’s burger. Yes, despite all the Michelin stars and global culinary domination, it’s the superchef’s burger that’s a never-miss. At Cafe Daniel Boulud Palm Beach in the Brazilian Court hotel (a star of vintage Palm Beach in its own right), it’s nine ounces of prime beef, topped with Vermont cheddar, red onion, tomato and a toss of shaved iceberg. Go for lunch, and splurge on a glass of the house Champagne to go with. The only challenge is how to finish it – a knife and fork may be required. Work it off with a short stroll around Brazilian Court and, oh, if these walls could talk. Whispers would surely include Audrey Hepburn, Frank Sinatra, Michael Jordan and Meghan Trainor.

on the mainland. We’ve booked a West Palm Beach Food Tour (don’t hesitate, it’s fabulous), and we’re greeted by our guide with a South Florida sweet: a guava and cheese pastelito – a Cuban puff pastry that’s typically had at breakfast – followed a few minutes later by a Mahi fish taco at the waterfront spot E.R. Bradley’s Saloon.

Small mercies that the sun is out and we can actually walk – and walk it all off as we go – from Pistache’s French Croque Monsieur (oh, the cheese!) and traditional Colombian tinto coffee brewed tableside at Salento Coffee, to Ganache Bakery’s take on Key Lime Pie and how the patisserie uses Caribbean influences like tamarind and coconut, to my favourite: Kapow!

“Palm Beach County is more than oranges and high society. Its juice also lies in its coastal cuisine and contemporary art scenes.“

I step through the door. Eclectic, weird, wacky, saturated, and yes, surreal, I dunno, I love it! In the back room – affectionately called the balloon room, by me – echoes of the randomly suspended balloon lightingcum-art installation are splashed on the wall with primary coloured paints; it’s shadowplay in Technicolor. The food is also eclectic, in a good way; cocktails are inspired by the disruptors of their time – the Banana for Warhol, Moonbird for Juan Miro, Frida Kahlo for, well, Frida Kahlo and, then, there's The Great Masturbator for Salvador Dali. Artsy, tattoo’d staff are empowered with the knowledge of ingredients and what twists the chef can take on tonight’s menu. Speaking of, the food is anything but surreal. It’s American classic comfort cuisine, tweaked as Dali’s moustache; beef meatloaf dips in horseradish-laced mash; pork belly gets burnt ends; the starving artist grilled cheese comes with the requisite tomato soup – and with the promise that the price will never be more than “10 Bucks.”

PLAYING IN PALM BEACH

There are some things in a foodie’s life that should be on their Top 10 things to try. One

The celebrity status of The White Elephant Palm Beach, our next stop, lies in its Nantucket roots. It’s a New Englandinspired oasis among the swaying palms, all white clapboard and black-and-white, lawnstriped sunbrellas, eschewing those Palm Beach power pinks and lime greens. Yet, it works. It’s a shift-into-neutral zone where you can appreciate the more than 100 works of art that dot the walls, floors, tables and in the boutique hotel’s 32 rooms. It’s cosy and almost counterintuitive since the sun’s finally come out. It would suit the November grey of Nantucket; here, it gleams against the blue sky. Its in-house resto, LoLa 41, is a poolside patio that comes to life at sunset; seafood and sushi are greatest hits, while the indoor bar’s banging after 5 pm. It’s also a 10-minute walk to the OG hotel icon of the area, The Breakers, and about the same to the beach –the White Elephant also provides guests with bikes, BMWs or a ride on a private Barton & Gray yacht. I choose the beach; the water’s stirred up today, toe-dipping ensues.

It’s time to go west. West Palm Beach, that is. We cross one of the 12 bridges that connect the strip of multi-million dollar sand to its (slightly) more humble little sister

Noodle Bar. Inside, there are banquettes lining the walls on one side, a long bar on the other, all wrapped up in anime, manga and Lichenstein-esque comic book-festooned walls; tuk-tuks trimmed with twinkly lights are suspended from the ceiling. Outside, there are little tables from which you can watch the world go by while munching on wagyu beef potstickers, thai donuts and, for the veggie lovers, General Tso’s cauliflower, all washed down with a blueberry lavender mojito. Clematis Street is a pedestrian-only way that’s equal parts alternative bars and tattoo shops as it is street-food style eateries, and a cool respite from the polish of Palm Beach.

Back at Dada, I’m contemplating the real/ surreal menu. It’s still pouring rain, the drops smacking at the roof of the 100-year-old bungalow in a soothing way that inspires a deeper craving for all those comfort foods. I’m partial to a wedge salad, and this one’s a quarter slab of romaine, drizzled with Green Goddess dressing; I’ve forgotten to wear my Lilly Pulitzer shift dress. Oh, well, any splatters will put me well in as part of the scenery; surreally perfect in Palm Beach.

thepalmbeaches.com

Photo courtesy of: The Ben Hotel; West Palm Beach.

The pool at The Ben Hotel, West Palm Beach.

AT THE END OF THE WORLD

Discovering the cuisine that fuels half a million pilgrims.

BY DARCY RHYNO

From Left to Right: Hazy sunset on monumental Santiago de Compostela cathedral. Shell souvenir from the Camino de Santiago.

dDABBING OLIVE OIL from a scallop baked on the half shell, I watch pilgrims pass by the window of this restaurant in Galicia, the northwestern corner of Spain. Their walking sticks tap out the rhythm of their march or camino toward their goal, the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela said to house the remains of St. James. A scallop shell sways from each of their backpacks. Beyond them, fishers harvest seafood from the North Atlantic as they do all along this coastline.

I imagine my shell and those of the pilgrims dining around me – their appetites whetted by the 20 kilometres walked today – finding their way from the kitchen to the backpacks of future pilgrims, a powerful symbol of their inward journey. A thousand years ago, early pilgrims from distant lands returned home with scallop shells as proof of their completed pilgrimage to the coastline they considered the end of the world.

Today, scallop shells painted on buildings, depicted in stained glass and set into streets mark the many routes into Spain’s Galicia region. Some hug Portugal’s coastline. Others meander through eastern hills or cross desert and mountain passes. An ever increasing number of pilgrims funnel into Santiago, reaching a high in 2023 of 446,000. Many of Galicia’s historic sites, churches and villages

have their roots in service to those pilgrims.

Although this trip has me dreaming of one day completing my own pilgrimage, I’m a tourist this time round, exploring these sites, getting to know the land, its people and their cuisine. Any number of shellfish might serve as the pilgrims’ badge of fellowship. Cockles, razor clams, black scallops, mussels, oysters, even barnacles that grow in Galicia’s cool, nutrient-rich estuaries appear on nearly every menu, but I discover that seafood is only half the gastronomic story in Galicia. Its cuisine is built on a centuries-deep foundation of foraging and farming on land and sea.

Next to one pilgrims’ simple hostel in Ribadiso, I found a restaurant offering affordable food for the foot-weary. For a set price of 13 Euros, pilgrims can choose from hearty dishes like whole fried fish, steamed shrimp or calamari and fries or a generous plate of cheese and cured meats. At the quayside market in the port city of Vigo, stalls sell fresh oysters to the public that

nearby restaurants then prepare and serve. At Terras Gauda Winery near Tabagon on the Spanish Portuguese border, I tour the vineyards and sample Albariño and Caiño Blanco, indigenous Galician whites that pair perfectly with local seafood.

At Meson Pontenova, a rustic country restaurant in Pontenova, I savour courses served in a typical Galician sequence, starting with an aperitivo of local cheeses, both soft and firm, then a board filled with paper thin slices of cured meats – salamis, pepperonis, Serrano ham – and wedges of bread. For the first course or primero,” I’m served a plate of whole, fried baby trout. A main course or segundo of meat follows the fish; today, seared chops on a board with a carving knife. I’m offered a choice of delicate cakes for dessert or postre, but I’m no ravenous pilgrim.

My trip ends, as all do, in Santiago where I seek out one of Galicia’s 17 Michelinstar restaurants. Near the cathedral where pilgrims arrive in waves to celebrate, pray and reunite with loved ones, I find A Horta do Obradoiro. The seven-course feast includes an ensalada of fresh cheese spheres and heritage tomatoes dressed with small-batch olive oil and herbs. Seafood stars once again – a net of cockles steamed with seaweed, then delicate tempura hake bites with mayo and seaweed.

On my final day in Santiago, I head to the ages-old Mercado de Abastos de Santiago. I wander the market’s fish and meat stalls offering legs of Iberian ham, baskets of razor clams and links of smoked sausage. Stalls spill onto the street where fresh vegetables and fruits are piled next to rustic breads and cheeses like buttery queso tetilla. I buy two as gifts, one fresh and one smoked.

No pilgrim has truly tasted Galicia without sampling Tarta de Santiago. Because this dense cake holds status as a Protected Geographical Indication food, each must be 33 percent almond paste. I find it at restaurants, in markets and at pastelerias or dessert shops. Each tart is dusted with icing sugar, leaving the silhouette of the cross of St. James.

I watch through one shop window as a pilgrim purchases a slice. I can imagine his satisfaction as he sits with his reward in the cathedral plaza, munching sweet almond tart after walking hundreds of kilometres. It seems the pilgrim’s appetite is yet another centuries-deep influence on the development of Galician cuisine.

caminodesantiago.gal/en/

The Italian property Tenuta di Murlo immerses guests in the sprawling estate’s natural wonders. BY AARON RASMUSSEN

Hidden

Treasure Photos courtesy of: Aaron Rasmussen; Mattia Micheli/Murlo Villa

MY CAR’S HEADLIGHTS

PIERCE the inky night, slicing through a thick blanket of forest. As I round a bend on a winding gravel road in the heart of Umbria, a moment of confusion washes over me. Bathed in the glow of my headlights, a pair of giant wild boars waddle just ahead, accompanied by 10 cannonball-sized piglets traipsing in tow, a furry troupe that seems to bask in the spotlight. I drive on and catch glimpses of deer, rabbits and other unidentifiable critters bounding into the brambles.

“Our guests call it the Murlo safari,” Carlotta Carabba Tettamanti laughs when I later recount my wildlife welcome to Tenuta di Murlo, the sprawling estate she oversees with her husband, Alessio, whose family has owned the property for generations. Nature is the focal point here. Comprising a surface area larger than Manhattan, the expansive countryside – not urban grit – makes the destination an ideal home for Tenuta di Murlo’s beekeeping operation, fledgling vineyards, olive gardens and a prized delicacy: truffles, which is the reason for my trip.

Luckily for me, a jaunt to search for the priciest fungi on earth requires very little except a good night's sleep – no problem at the serene Tenuta di Murlo. Since 2006, nine of the approximately 80 ancient abandoned structures dotting Murlo have been refurbished and converted into luxury lodging, each a unique oasis crafted from stone. “My husband and I believe that the magical thing about Murlo is that it’s been the same since the Middle Ages,” Carabba

Tettamanti says. “We have tried to keep everything authentic and in harmony with the estate’s environment.”

After my safari-like adventure, I make myself at home in Villa Molinella, a streamside 13th-century mill tucked deep within the estate. Carabba Tettamanti and her husband knew the mill – previously a crumbling ruin that was a favourite secret picnic spot – was special and decided to transform it into a stunning two-bedroom private retreat. While pools (some natural, one man made) grace the mill’s grounds, the chilly evening in the Murlo valley lends itself to a long soak in my villa’s subterranean whirlpool spa, located in the area where the millstone once sat and accessed through a glass door set in the floor of the inviting living room.

After a night of deep sleep, daylight reveals that I’m surrounded by rounded hills covered in lush greenery, resembling slumbering giants’ bulging bellies. After a satisfying farmhouse breakfast on the terrace, I meet my truffle-hunting guide, Giovanni Calderini. The tartufaio introduces me to perhaps my most favourite creature spotted on the estate so far: Roy, a sprightly 7-yearold Lagotto Romagnolo with clipped off-

white fur and brown patches around his eyes, which give him a world-weary look. It turns out, like myself, Roy is anything but tired today. The dog, excited for our gastronomic adventure, darts ahead of us, scampering with nose to the ground and tail whipping back and forth like a windshield wiper.

Roy zeroes in on a stand of poplars, where black and white truffles cozy up to the trees’ roots in the moist soil, creating a symbiotic relationship based on the exchange of water and nutrients.

While keeping an eye on Roy zipping up soggy banks and through trees cloaked in moss, Calderini tells me that a truffle-hunting dog spends up to the first eight months of its life socializing with other puppies. “A dog that gets along with everyone works with happiness,” Calderini says, explaining the Lagotto Romagnolos he trains are taught to think of truffle hunting as play. Roy, clearly thrilled with his mission, suddenly stops, folds back his ears, and paws the ground. The dog looks to his master, indicating he’s caught the scent of a perfectly ripe truffle.

Calderini squats and pulls out a vanghetto, or small spade. He digs out a Bianchetto, a white truffle also known as Marzuolo, which he feeds Roy as a tasty reward for a job well done. Calderini jokes hunting the pricey fungi is work well done for himself as well. But rather than for financial gain, he first got into the endeavour nearly two decades ago because he loved spending time outdoors. “It’s so beautiful to leave in the morning with

The magical thing about Murlo is that it’s been the same since the Middle Ages

my dog and be in the woods for hours in silence,” he says. “It’s good for the heart and health.”

At the end of the excursion, I bid Calderini and Roy goodbye. At Tenuta di Murlo’s restaurant, Il Caldaro, I feast on bruschetta and scrambled eggs topped with shaved black Scorzone truffles, reveling in the nutty, earthy flavours and washing them down with a rosé from the estate’s vineyard. Carabba Tettamanti had described Tenuta di Murlo as a gem to discover, a place where guests can see, feel and breathe in the beauty. Turns out, they can taste it, too. murlo.com

Truffle Hunting in Canada

Can’t make it to Umbria? Vivian Vassos asked Marco Tallarico, founder of Truffle Kings, to give us his tips – and his favourite Italian restaurants in Toronto.

wWHEN MARCO

TALLARICO launched Truffle Kings in 2023, it was all about sharing his passion for Italian culture and cuisine here at home in Canada. The online grocery store, Truffle Kings, features a collection of olive oils, vinegars, truffle-infused foods and the delicate fresh truffles flown-in weekly direct from Italy; the spirit behind it was inspired by his summers spent in Sicily and Calabria. “Truffle Kings aims to educate consumers on the true essence of Italian fine foods,” he says. “The brand is a tribute to the long-established family companies that have played a significant role in shaping Italian culture for centuries.”

VIVIAN VASSOS: How is your vision for Truffle Kings influenced by your Italian heritage and travels to Italy?

MARCO TALLARICO: There are so many general misconceptions with what constitutes quality when it comes to Italian products. Every year when I come back from Italy, I am amazed by the lack of knowledge of second and third generation Italians and how they misrepresent our culture. My vision for Truffle Kings was to capitalize on the premiumization taking place in the food industry since the

pandemic. From our research, it seems like people are looking to find out where things come from, the integrity of the producers and a general premium product, which may include organic and biodiverse properties. The goal is to bring those truths to the market and give people a place to buy the premium products they are searching for.

VV: What are some of your favourite places in Italy?

MT: My favourite places in Italy are in the south because for years tourists have been all over the north of Italy in places like Rome, Milan, Tuscany, etc. The south has, for the most part, been untouched. With the popularity of North American media, things like White Lotus, the south has become increasingly trendy and targeted by tourists. I grew up in these parts, especially Sicily, so I mostly visit Sicily, Calabria and Julia, to name a few.

VV: What are one or two of your go-to restaurants or chefs in Canada?

MT: In Toronto, my family owns the Oretta [restaurant] group; my cousin Sal has been doing a fantastic job of staying true to Italian culture with his food. Joso’s, although Mediterranean, not necessarily just Italian food, is my favourite restaurant by far in the city, and still what I consider

to be the number one restaurant. As of late, restaurants like Giulia and bakeries like Forno Cultura have also done a fantastic job. Also, my friends at Nodo really do set an emphasis on fresh products and bringing Italian culture to the forefront.

VV: What is your favourite way to use truffles?

MT: The best way to use truffles is to put them on anything that steams. Popcorn, eggs, pasta, steak, French fries and more! Basically, if you would fathom putting some butter on it, then it's something that would work well with truffles. But beware! Using truffle oil means you are adding fat. So, I would refrain from adding truffle oil to something already cooked in fat, like French fries. Instead, consider adding Truffle Salt provided by Truffle Kings. You are most likely to add salt to popcorn anyways. The best way to cook with truffles is to find fresh, in-season truffles and thinly slicing them on top of your dish. But, if that’s not an option, using some of our other products, such as Truffle Pepper, is a great way to add the aroma without being dependent on the season. For example, adding truffle oil or salt to a pasta dish is not suggested but imagine a cacio pepe pasta with Truffle Pepper? Delicious!

trufflekings.co

Photos courtesy of: Steve Dickinson/Tahiti Tourisme; Grégoire Le Bacon/Tahiti Tourisme.

OLYMPIC WAVE

BYERS

All eyes may be on Paris this summer, but if you’re a fan of surfing, the scene in French Polynesia, where the Summer Games competition will be held, should be where you hang 10. BY JIM

I’ve

ALWAYS LOVED the South Pacific, but it’s when I’m floating off the black lava coast of Tahiti, with the palm trees swaying mere metres from my face, that I begin to understand how easy it must have been for Fletcher Christian and others on board the HMS Bounty to high-tail it off the ship in the late 1700s and make their escape. In 2024, the hightailing it to Tahiti has an altogether more positive meaning. There being little in the way of big waves in European France, organizers of the 2024 Summer Olympics (in Paris, beginning July 26), will stage the surfing competition in Tahiti, which is part of the French Republic.

The competition will take place in the quiet, south end of Tahiti Island, called Tahiti Iti. The bustling capital of Papeete is on the same island, but it feels like an entirely different place from tranquil Tahiti Iti. Brave surfers from around the world will try to hit the crest and ride the curl (and perhaps just survive) in a surfing area known as Teahupo’o. It has a reputation for having one of the heaviest, most thunderous tube waves on the planet, and they’re not meant for newbies.

Once you get south of Teahupo’o, the mountains suddenly show their muscle, rising in massive columns towards the Pacific sky, with exposed, black columns of basalt rock and thick, deep green jungle. But for surfers, the ocean is where it’s at. The area of Teahupo’o is probably the most challenging, especially in the Tahitian winter (summer in the northern hemisphere) when big southwest swells roll in heavy and hard. There are other places in Tahiti that are better for less experienced surfers, including Papara, which is less than an hour from Papeete and the island’s international airport. But Teahupo’o, often called by its nickname

of “Chopes,” is the crème da la crème.

Surfing has been an important part of Tahitian culture for centuries. Back in the day, the only people who practiced surfing were warriors and Tahitian royalty, who rolled toward shore on heavy, wooden boards that bear little resemblance to the light, nimble surf equipment used today. The practice, however, went into decline when European Christians brought their uptight views about culture and entertainment. But then, the legendary Hawaiian surfer Duke Kahanamoku spread the word about surfing to the brisk waters of California in the early 20th century, and suddenly surf culture was cool again. Tahiti’s fine barrel tubes have been re-discovered by surfers looking for the perfect wave.

And now we’ll see surfing on the biggest sporting stage of them all, which means more

people will be in on the secret. Tahiti Iti and Teahupo’o in particular are a world apart from the resorts and city noise of Papeete. The world’s loftiest sports competition could change that. But I sure hope not. So does local resident Henry Tahurai. “I’d go to war to keep this place the way it is,” he told The Guardian. “We gotta keep Teahupo’o Teahupo’o.” Here’s hoping everyone will get in the spirit of it, stay cool and hang loose. tahititourisme.ca/en-ca/

FOODIE MUST-TRY: Poisson cru (above), the national dish of Tahiti, which features coconut milk and raw fish – a French Polynesian take on ceviche. There are dozens of ways to make it, but at Bonjouir Teahupoo Lodge Paradis, co-owner Annick Paofai likes hers with coconut milk, tuna, onion, tomatoes, chopped cabbage, thinly sliced carrots, celery and lemon juice. “Not everyone adds cabbage or carrots, but I like the colour from both, and the crunch from the cabbage. I also don’t put lemon juice right on the fish like some people do. I don’t want to cook the fish with the juice, so I add it to the coconut milk instead.”

Wish you were here

POSTCARD FROM

ICEBERG ALLEY, NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

The Rock is known for its iceberg-viewing adventures and has become one of the best places in the world to commune with these breathtaking glacial giants.

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY

MY FIRST ICEBERG was a strange beauty that looked like the bottom half of a toothy grin. That was on a St. John’s boat tour in 2017 and since then I’ve chased them across Newfoundland and Labrador and seen them in all shapes and sizes, and in colours that range from snow white and glacier grey to aquamarine.

I’ve gaped at these 10,000-year-old glacial giants from double-decker tour boats in Bay Bulls/Witless Bay, ferries to Battle Harbour, Zodiacs in Trinity and sea kayaks in Twillingate. I’ve spotted bergs from shore in Fogo Island, Bonavista, Elliston and Middle Cove.

Icebergs are edges of glaciers that have broken off and slipped into the sea. Ninety per cent of ours come from Greenland and the rest from Nunavut. Remember, only 10 per cent is visible so keep your distance in

BY JENNIFER BAIN

case they roll and create dangerous waves.

What the province calls “Iceberg Alley” stretches from the coast of Labrador to the southeast coast of the island of Newfoundland. I’ve seen Mother Nature’s floating sculptures as early as April and as late as July, always melting as they drift south and die.

Diane Davis created Newfoundland and Labrador Iceberg Reports – a Facebook group with 75,000 members – so people can swap sightings in real time. “It’s a pure obsession,” admits the retired Gander teacher. “I also think it would be a sin for people to be in Newfoundland and not realize they’re 15 minutes or an hour and a half away from an iceberg.”

I love the hoopla almost as much as the thrill of the chase. Last year, photographer Ken Pretty from Dildo took viral drone shots

of a phallic-shaped iceberg in Conception Bay. You can’t make this stuff up. Another shape-shifting beauty, straight out of central casting, once created traffic jams when it got stuck off picturesque Ferryland.

While an iceberg off Newfoundland sank the Titanic, they’re sometimes harvested, melted and used to make beer and spirits. If you spot one on a boat tour, your captain will almost certainly scoop up some “bergy bits” and gift them to you as ice cubes for a celebratory drink.

Post your best pictures on Instagram using #boldpicks for the chance to be featured on this page in a future issue.