Bold Traveller Magazine - Summer Edition by BOLD Traveller Magazine

MAY | JUNE 2020

where we’re Dreaming of Going Next

Nicaragua

THE FRENCH ALPS ABU DHABI TWO WAYS NEW BRUNSWICK THE DALMATIANS

Escapes

to Wellness

FOR WHEN WE TRAVEL AGAIN

Presented by

AGENDA NICARAGUA

LATIN AMERICA

TREASURES OF THE INCAS WITH ME TO WE OPTION

Machu Picchu

LUXURY GOLD | LUXURYGOLD.COM/BOLD

A taste of what’s to come AGENDA

| SLUG

12 or 16 DAYS Discover the mysterious world of the ancient Inca Empire and Peru’s modern gastronomy.

EY TOLLMA

IR MA

A CH

ION

STA

On Chairman’s Collections departures, join Dr. Francisco Diez-Canseco Távara for an exclusive experience. Scheduled on Day 2 of Treasures of the Incas. See itinerary and our website for details.

E N’S COLL

VIP EXPERIENCES LIMA:

Visit the home of local artist Victor Delfin, known for his monumental El Beso sculpture, at his workshop in the city’s trendy Barranco district.

JOURNEY HIGHLIGHTS MACHU PICCHU:

Spend a full day exploring the ancient Inca citadel of Machu Picchu. A Local Expert helps you understand the enigmatic fortress abandoned by the Incas in the 16th century.

LAKE TITICACA:

Visit the Uros Floating Islands to learn about the lifestyle and customs of the local people and enjoy lunch with the community.

EXCEPTIONAL DINING CUSCO:

Dine at MAP restaurant, one of the city’s most prominent restaurants, situated on the lively, modern courtyard of the Museum of Pre-Colombian Art.

LUXURY HOTELS CUSCO:

The stylishly decorated and luxurious JW Marriott El Convento Cusco is built atop ancient Incan ruins. Your complete journey beyond the ordinary is revealed in the itinerary

LATIN AMERICA

Indigenous Quechua lady, Cusco

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Plaza Mayor, Lima

DAY 1 ARRIVE IN LIMA, PERU. On arrival at Lima International Airport, you will be greeted and transferred to your luxurious hotel in Miraflores.

⅔ If you are on a Chairman’s Collection

departure, today you will meet Dr. Francisco Diez-Canseco Távara. Truly a man of many talents, he is a gifted lawyer, farmer, entrepreneur and politician descending from an impressive family heritage including former presidents of Peru and nobility in Spain.

You can relax before meeting your Travelling Concierge at 18.00 for a Welcome Dinner at MAYTA with chef Jamie Pesaque. (DW) JW Marriott Hotel Lima (Ocean View Rooms). | Contemporary | ∂ DAY 2 LIMA, CITY OF THE KINGS. Experience Lima through the eyes of a Local Expert. Explore the UNESCOlisted Historic Centre of Lima. A Highlight Lunch is served at Amoramar, in Barranco, the trendy bohemian district. Experience Lima Your Way and visit the workshop of Víctor Delfín, one of Peru's leading artists, or a take a guided visit to MATE-Museo Mario Testino, created by one of the world's most influential photographers. (B) (LW)

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DAY 3 ON TO THE SACRED VALLEY. Fly to Cusco and continue on to Peru's Sacred Valley. Visit the Chinchero market. Meet Nilda Callañaupa Alvarez, a recipient of a TreadRight Foundation grant. Learn about her mission to preserve traditional weaving techniques. (B) (L) (DW)

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Tambo del Inka, Sacred Valley. | Traditional | ∂ DAY 4 · RELAXED START EXPLORING THE SACRED VALLEY. Visit the terraced salt pans in Maras, where you'll meet a local family. Feast on a local caja china lunch cooked in a wooden box. After lunch, witness a private Pachamama Ceremony. (B) (L)

LUXURY GOLD | LUXURYGOLD.COM/BOLD

ℓ

DAY 5 JOURNEY TO MACHU PICCHU. Visit the town of Ollantaytambo. Board the Vistadome train to Machu Picchu village. Enjoy lunch followed by a guided exploration. Discover a working tea plantation and view the world's largest private collection of indigenous orchids. Learn how to blend the perfect pisco sour before your dinner with wine at the hotel. (B) (L) (DW) Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel. | Traditional | ∂ DAY 6 MYSTERIOUS MACHU PICCHU. Visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Machu Picchu before the crowds with a Local Expert. In the afternoon, enjoy time to explore Machu Picchu at your leisure or return to town and continue your afternoon there. After a full day of discovery, enjoy a delicious dinner with wine. (B) (L) (DW)

TREASURES OF THE INCAS

YOUR ITINERARY - AT A GLANCE

1 COUNTRY | 11 BREAKFASTS 9 LUNCHES | 7 DINNERS 21 INCLUDED EXPERIENCES 3 RELAXED STARTS

PERU MACHU PICCHU LIMA

DEPARTURE DATES

(Days 1, 2, 11 & 12)

JOURNEYS DEPART ON SET DATES BETWEEN AUGUST AND OCTOBER 2020. SEE LUXURYGOLD.COM/BOLD FOR DETAILS. Please see page 4 for information key on dining and itinerary icons.

ℓ

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✈ 

Savour a sumptuous Pachamanca Feast of Peruvian cuisine for your Highlight Lunch. After lunch, get up-close to llamas, guanacos, alpacas and even the rare vicuñas before arriving at your hotel in Cusco, steps away from the Plaza de Armas. (B) (L)

DAY 9 LAKE REGION OF PERU. Fly to Juliaca and head to Sillustani to explore the impressive burial grounds. (B) (L) (DW) Libertador Lake Titicaca, Puno. | Traditional | ∂

Maras

(Days 7 & 8)

Join/Leave Options Included Flights Cruise Train UNESCO Heritage Site Luxury Gold Hotel + Nights Start/End Locations + Nights

℮ ℓ

| Heritage | ∂

In the evening, enjoy a candlelit Highlight Dinner with wine at one of the city's most prominent culinary scenes, the MAP Restaurant in the courtyard of the Museum of PreColombian Art. (B) (DW)

Moray

SACRED 2 VALLEY

Key:

JW Marriott El Convento Cusco. DAY 8 · RELAXED START COLONIAL CUSCO. Join your Local Expert to explore Cusco, Sacsayhuamán, Qorikancha and San Blas.

2 CUSCO

(Days 3 & 4)

DAY 7 · RELAXED START RETURN TO CUSCO. Travel to Cusco by train.

(Days 5 & 6)

✈

ℓ

DAY 10 THE FLOATING ISLANDS OF LAKE TITICACA. Cruise Lake Titicaca to the Uros Floating Islands, where locals bundle reeds from the lake to build floating platforms, houses and canoes. On Amantaní Island, join the local community for a lunch of regional specialties. Afterwards, explore local handicrafts before returning to Puno where you can relax this evening. (B) (L) DAY 11 PUNO, BACK TO LIMA. Depart your lakeside retreat and return to Lima. Savour a sensational Celebration Dinner at Matria, where chef Arlette Eulert Checa intrigues and delights with creative seasonal dishes. (B) (L) (DW)



JW Marriott Hotel Lima (Ocean View Rooms).

✈

DAY 12 DEPART LIMA. Say goodbye to your fellow travellers before transferring to Lima International Airport. (B)

| Contemporary | ∂

Uros Island Amantani 2 Island LAKE TITICACA / PUNO

Sillustani

(Days 9 & 10)

ME TO WE TRAVEL OPTION 2 COUNTRIES | 16 BREAKFASTS 12 LUNCHES | 10 DINNERS 27 INCLUDED EXPERIENCES 3 RELAXED STARTS QUITO

(Days 1 & 5)

1 Coca

3 TENA (Days 2, 3 & 4)

DAYS 12 - 16 ME TO WE CULTURALLY IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCE. Why not extend your Treasures of the Incas journey with the perfect sustainable Amazon experience in Ecuador. Participate in an immersive international development project, connect with community members and explore nature as you trek the Amazonian rainforest. See our website for more details.

ECUADOR

WHY NOT COMBINE THIS JOURNEY WITH CLASSIC SOUTH AMERICA TO FULLY EXPERIENCE SOUTH AMERICA? SEE GRAND SOUTH AMERICA AT LUXURYGOLD.COM/BOLD.

To book or for more information, visit LUXURYGOLD.COM/BOLD, call 1 844 649 3582, or speak to your Travel Advisor.

INTIMATE EXPERIENCES | EXOTIC DESTINATIONS

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EMERALD

WANDER GREEN PLACES

Nicaragua is an adventurer’s paradise. With 78 protected areas and a plethora of natural parks, the hiker, spelunker, and kayaker will be spoiled for choice. Eternally misty cloud forests tempt travellers to navigate their canopy walkways while the black sands of the Cerro Negro welcome the thrillseeker for an afternoon of volcano boarding. Yet, nestled between Tola and El Astillero sits The Emerald Coast: Nicaragua’s dreamy response to the growing population of eco-travellers. This 30-mile stretch of pristine coastline and undisturbed forest has transcended its humble origins as a surfing getaway and become one of Nicaragua’s foremost destinations for sustainable adventure and relaxation. With an abundance of exciting excursions and a growing selection of authentic accommodations, green has never looked (or felt) so good.

DREAMS

CONTENTS

A stop at León cathedral should be on every traveller’s wish list.

FEATURES

48 SUCH GREAT HEIGHTS. On her first ever trip to Nicaragua, Megan Griffith can’t believe how many thrills—and smiles—the country has to offer 54 SAVOIE FARE. France’s Alpine lakes have long provided a refuge for those seeking wellness and the good life; Paul Gallant follows in their footsteps 63 MIND+BODY+SOUL. A special feature of the world’s top wellness escapes recommended by Virtuoso experts 12

Photo by Julien Capmeil

MAY | JUNE 2020

CONTENTS MAY | JUNE 2020

STYLE 44

16 18 21 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 42 44 78 80

Editor’s Note: Staying home, saying goodbye Contributors: Who’s been where Agenda: Where we’re dreaming of this month Editor’s Itinerary: Spa cruises Stay: The Algonquin Resort St. Andrews by-the-Sea Local Expert: Taru Tappola’s Helsinki Wanderlust: Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast Food Diaries: Saskatoon’s Hearth Dine & Drink: Vegan in Berlin; cocktails in Playa del Carmen Travel Two Ways: Abu Dhabi Globetrotter: G Adventure’s Bruce Poon Tip Style: What to pack for Panama’s Islas Secas Travel Intel: Digital detox and more Worth Travelling For: Raffles Hotel Singapore

Croatian coast photo by Mateo Almendares

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EDITOR’S NOTE MAY | JUNE 2020

Do try this at home

his issue’s Nicaragua cover story, by Megan Griffiths, has some poignancy that may not be evident to readers. It was a story I wrote about a 2015 trip to Nicaragua that connected me with BOLD magazine’s publisher and editorial director, the remarkable Marlon Moreno, which eventually led to my appointment as executive editor. And now a Nicaragua feature marks the last issue under my tenure. To be cliched and sentimental: What a trip it’s been! I’ve had the privilege of working with some of the country’s best travel writers and meeting many of the industry peeps—PR reps, chefs, hotel managers, agents, wedding planners—who make travel such a fun topic to cover. Before this gig, I used to think of myself as reasonably well travelled. Then I met a writer who had been to every Caribbean country except for two, and another writer who had been to almost every one of the dozens of properties operated by a particular global brand. These are people who can tell the difference between a three-star and a four-star Michelin restaurant, and I’m humbled to have broken bread with them. No matter how cutting-edge the décor, how elaborate the culinary presentation, how jaw-dropping the view, travel is first and foremost about people. I will continue to be a contributor and collaborator for BOLD, so you’ll be hearing more from me in these pages in the future.

Paul Gallant Executive Editor

Photo by Chris Barbalis; portrait photo by Tishan Baldeo

entle reader: None of what this issue contains is for right now. We know. Believe us, we know. We Canadians are grounded, like more than half the population of the world, each of us doing our part getting through this difficult, strange time. As BOLD went to press with stories researched and written weeks and months ago, it passed through our minds to scrap everything and start again. Then there was more news, and those ideas had to be scrapped. Consider this note a disclaimer for an issue conceived in less anxious times. We don’t want you going anywhere right now. But a magazine dedicated to “inspiration for travellers” has a dual purpose: yes, to help travellers find the world’s most sublime experiences. But also to provide inspiration. That inspiration can be for armchair travel to places we’ll never set foot, or filed away for future reference. As so many of us stare at our screens and the same four walls, pining for a culinary miracle or a pint amongst scenesters, we hope this issue of BOLD can be a reprieve from boredom, a glimmer of hope of what’s possible when we all work together to solve a problem. When this is over—and it will eventually be over—so many of our beloved destinations will be left reeling. The people who make travel worth it will be struggling. Flight attendants, front-desk staff, chefs, servers, vendors and artisans—these will be hardest hit by the economic downturn produced by the global response to Covid-19. When we’re back on the road again, let’s be conscientious and generous with our choice of destinations, how we get there and what we do on arrival. A benevolent gratuity here, a kind word there, respectful deference while our host solves a glitch with our room or itinerary. A crisis like this can cause much awfulness, but it can also teach us how to be better people and better travellers.

MAY | JUNE 2020

CONTRIBUTORS

Executive Editor Associate Editor Americas Editor Contributing Editor Art Director

Gordon Bowness

Sweet Surrender, page 26 What’s something that happened behind the scenes when you visited St. Andrews? My favourite encounter was with a local marine biologist who happily, enthusiastically and in gory detail, discussed recent great white shark sightings in the local waters. No shark-phobia like on Amity Island of Jaws fame. Most locals came across as incredibly unguarded and genuine... and keen on a healthy marine ecosystem.

Photography Web Developer Social Media Coordinator Contributing Writers

Chief Digital Officer Director of Finance

Loren Christie

What didn’t you include in the story? I love typical German food… schnitzels, sausages and sauerkraut. But Berlin is all about pushing the envelope and trying things outside of your comfort zone. So what choice did I have? I checked out art galleries that made me scratch my head. I partied in nightclubs that I thought only existed in movies. And I ate only vegan food.

Magda de la Torre Ruth J. Katz

Malcolm M c Kee Tishan Baldeo Rahul Nair

Juan Felipe Galán Gordon Bowness • Loren Christie

Marlon J. Moreno Pina Russo

Jude Soosaipillai

Print Subscriptions Canada Advertising Inquiries Public Relations Agency

Headquarters Correspondence

Megan Griffith

Such Great Heights, page 48 What most surprised you about Nicaragua? Nicaragua has a perfect blend of everything from culture to adventure. What surprised me is how quickly it became the favourite place I’ve ever travelled to. I witnessed some of the most breathtaking views, and got to interact with amazing people. Every day the food was above all expectations.

Liz Fleming

Megan Griffith • Vawn Himmelsbach

CEO + Editorial Director

Herbivore Heaven, page 34

Paul Gallant

One year for $39.95 marlon@morenoco.com Moreno & Company morenoco.com 1.416.323.7828 77 Bloor St. West, Suite 1200 Toronto, ON M5S 1M2 20 Bloor St. East P.O. Box 75075 Toronto, ON M4W 3T3

boldmagazine

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On The Cover

The colonial centre of the gorgeous Nicaraguan city of Granada is a perfect venue for romance. Photo by Julien Capmeil

BOLD® is published bimonthly by Moreno & Company Inc. Opinions expressed in BOLD® are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the publisher or advertisers. BOLD® does not assume liability for content. All prices quoted are in rounded Canadian dollars, accurate at press time, unless otherwise noted.

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Fields of Light at Uluru photo courtesy © Tourism NT

BOLD AGENDA

DISCOVERIES

TRIP TO LIGHT FANTASTIC Uluru, Australia MYSTIC HARMONY Rapa Nui BANK ON IT the Langham, Boston YUMMY VIETNAM Saigon 21

AGENDA | DISCOVERIES

Trip to Light Fantastic

Visiting Australia’s Uluru, once called Ayers Rock, has gotten a bum rap these days. Last year Uluru was closed permanently for climbing, which is considered disrespectful to the sacred place, damaging to the landscape and dangerous to the people taking part. But the enthusiasm for Fields of Light artwork, hosted by Ayers Rock Resort, about a half hour drive away, has taken on a life of its own. The solar-powered installation by English-Australian artist Bruce Munro consists of more than 50,000 stems crowned with frosted-glass spheres that light up and change colour as darkness falls. Various viewing packages are available, including being transported to a desert viewing platform by camel. The installation opened in 2017 and was supposed to have closed by now. But it’s been extended to December 31, 2020. It’s a much more poetic, and sustainable way, to celebrate the rugged Australian terrain. ayersrockresort.com.au

A new study suggests that Easter Island’s mysterious moai monolithic statues may have had a role in food production. Short version: the quarry where they were brought from was full of soil nutrients that were activated and spread during the manufacturing, transportation and erection process. Despite this ingenuity, deforestation and other forces caused the Polynesian society to shrink to about 3,000 inhabitants by the time the Europeans arrived in 1722. Yet Easter Island—also known as Rapa Nui, or, in Spanish, since it’s a Chilean possession, Isla de Pascua—will always fascinate us. Visitors who want to avoid playing a part in another eco-collapse might consider Hangaroa Eco Village & Spa as their base for visiting the almost 1,000 moai around the island. A series of sustainability initiatives, charming landscaping using native plant species and a harmonious design make it a feel-good stay. Their food, too, focuses on locally sourced ingredients, particularly local seafood. hangaroa.cl 22

Photos by Antoine Fabre; Sam Power

Mystic Harmony

Previous Bruce Munro’s Uluru artwork seems to echo the night sky. Clockwise from top left Australia’s famed Uluru; Ho Chi Minh City’s Fine Art Museum; pho remains a favourite Vietnamese street food; banking on The Langham’s new look; Tongariki Moai at sunrise in Rapa Nui.

Yummy Vietnam

Museum photo by Anh Vy; Langham lounge rendering courtesy Langham Hotels & Resorts

True food-lovers know that street food done well can tickle the palate as well as highly rated gourmet cuisine. So it’s no surprise that The Reverie Saigon, one of Ho Chi Min City’s top-rated and most beloved luxury hotels, has signed on for the bespoke food tour Hidden Saigon. The four-hour exploration takes travellers to see street-food stalls, local markets and sidewalk vendors, as well as contemporary fine-dining restaurants. The adventure is led by Linh Phan, a Vietnamese-Canadian, whose work focuses on highlighting another side of Vietnam “other than pho, bánh mì and conical hats.” thereveriesaigon.com; hidden-saigon.com

BANK ON IT

Boston has been abuzz about the reopening of The Langham. The US$80-million, year-long renovation aims to make the hotel one of the United States’ most luxurious properties. Opened in 1922 as the Federal Reserve of Boston (it didn’t become a hotel until 1981), the facelift will play up references to the building’s illustrious financial history: the green in the public spaces matches that of the US banknote, while the check-in counter conjures a bank-teller counter. The 312 rooms and suites will be a very modern take on the traditional New England aesthetic—no flaming pink, please. The Langham is expected to open summer 2020. langhamhotels.com

AGENDA | EDITOR’S ITINERARY

The Well-Kept Cruiser

Step away from the buffet and explore the spa services on these health-conscious cruises by Liz Fleming

opular wisdom cautions that most people come back a pound heavier for each day of a cruise. No wonder! The food on most cruise ships is not only delicious but plentiful, available 24 hours a day, thanks to seductive latenight buffets and room service. But taking a cruise doesn’t necessarily mean you have to pack on the pounds or come home in worse shape than when you left. In fact, with the wealth of fantastic spas, healthy living suites and calorieconscious menu choices now available on many ships, you can enjoy the high life on the high seas and arrive home fitter, leaner and certainly far less stressed.

Celebrity’s AquaClass

heck yourself into the Canyon Ranch SpaClub on Celebrity’s AquaClass ships (Celebrity Solstice, Equinox, Eclipse, Silhouette and Reflection) and there’ll be no excuse for having anything less than a totally healthy holiday. The SpaClub complex will envelope you for the whole voyage, tucking you into an AquaClass spa stateroom where you’ll find spa-oriented bath products, a luxurious multi-headed spa shower, silky linens, a wonderfully indulgent choose-your-ownpillow menu, an aromatherapy diffuser, complimentary bottled water and flavoured teas. Your upgraded room service menu will feature fresh salads, whole grains and other healthy dining options, and you’ll have exclusive access to the specialty restaurant, Blu, with its healthy gourmet menu. Toss in the complimentary use of the spa’s relaxation room and Persian Garden, which features a co-ed sauna, steam room, tropical rain shower and heated, oceanview relaxation chairs, then add the services of a “spa concierge” to coordinate all your treatments, and your cruise will quickly become a health-focused getaway. In addition to all the expected spa services, such as over-the-top massages, facials, manis and pedis, you can have a little Botox or filler if you like, so you’ll arrive home looking even better than you feel. You’ll also find Canyon Ranch spas aboard Regent and Cunard ships. canyonranch.com; celebritycruises.com

Celebrity’s Persian Garden is a co-ed spa with heated-tile beds.

Royal Caribbean’s newest Oasis Class ship, Wonder of the Seas, is expected to go into service in 2021.

Royal Caribbean’s Oasis Class

oyal Caribbean’s Oasis Class ships (Oasis, Allure, Harmony, Wonder and Symphony of the Seas) rate a place in our list of top three because they offer something for everyone. The Asian-inspired spa provides a wealth of treatment rooms, including a few couples’ suites, as well as a welcoming thermal suite featuring heated tile loungers, saunas and steam rooms. There are all the massages you’d expect (Swedish, hot stone and couples), as well as reflexology, facials, body wraps and even medi-spa services like Botox. But what sets Royal Caribbean apart from its competitors is the YSpa, for kids aged 13 to 17, which features treatments such as Beach Babe (a deep conditioning for sun-dried hair) and Acne Attack. When your treatments are finished, drop by the Vitality Enrichment Lounge to catch lectures on wellness topics or relax at the Vitality Café, where you’ll find smoothies, juices and healthy wraps. To keep that pound-a-day cruise weight-gain at bay, check out the workout areas with every machine and free weight you could imagine, as well as a circuit-training Omega Kinesis Wall. Need a little guidance? You’ll find classes in yoga, Pilates, cycling and kickboxing. royalcaribbean.com

Photos courtesy Royal Caribbean International and Viking Cruises

In Viking’s Owner’s Suite, an ocean-view sauna.

Viking’s LivNordic

great partnership can be magical. That’s certainly the case with the LivNordic/ Viking blend. Stockholm-based Raison d’Etre’s renowned LivNordic traditions and thermal suite technology are based on a balance between hot and cold therapies to stimulate the circulatory system. They’re offered free to all guests aboard Viking’s ocean-going vessels. In addition to warmed tile loungers, an authentic Norwegian-style shower with a bucket that dumps cold water on your head, and a steamy sauna and a snow grotto, the thermal suite even features a “fireplace” that uses water vapour to simulate flames. The treatments available for an additional fee are simple; just three types of Swedish massage (mindful, detox and deep tissue) and two facials. The Scandinavian theory at work is that things less complicated are also less stressful. vikingcruises.com; livnordic.com 25

Sweet Surrender Look up ‘charm’ in the dictionary and you might find St Andrews by-the-Sea’s Algonquin Resort by Gordon Bowness

“I

love this spot. It’s my favourite place in the world,” says tour manager Susan Goertzen, standing outside Covenhoven, a 50-room stone mansion from 1891, where she has worked for more than 20 years. We’re looking out toward Passamaquoddy Bay off the southern coast of New Brunswick. Piercing the view is a circular stone tower, Covenhoven’s bathhouse, which extends several metres down a red sandstone cliff to the shoreline below. “I used to try and work here,” says Goertzen, who has a tattoo of the tower on her leg. “But I couldn’t get anything done. The views are too distracting. The light, the water… it’s always changing.” Located on an island only accessible at low tide across an exposed gravel bed, the Covenhoven estate is, indeed, a beautiful, beguiling place. It was built as the summer residence of William Van Horne, the larger-than-life second president of the Canadian Pacific Railway. (More impressive than the residence is the estate’s giant barn, architect William Maxwell’s cathedral to agriculture.) Van Horne led a wave of wealthy Montrealers and Bostonians who turned the town of St. Andrews, a stone’s throw from Covenhoven, into Canada’s first seaside resort. They came initially for extended stays at The Algonquin, a big fancy hotel built in 1889, which was soon taken over by the CPR. Like van Horne, many visitors fell in love with the town, snapping up properties and becoming perennial part-time residents. Perched above St. Andrews with views to both Passamaquoddy Bay and the mouth of the St. Croix River, The Algonquin still commands a central role in the community. Rebuilt in a grand Tudor style in 1915 following a fire (only the Painter Wing, Kitchen Wing and tower were spared), and now Algonquin Resort St. Andrews by-the-Sea, Autograph Collection, the Marriott property is an impressive edifice, dripping with historic charm. A $50-million renovation in 2014 means the hotel, open year round, offers every modern creature comfort… literally: Guests are welcomed by two very 26

friendly black labs whose “office” is right beside the reception desk. The kilted bellhops are friendly, too; they do triple duty as dog walkers and guides on regular ghost tours that explore the hotel and its fascinating history. With three swimming options (indoor pool with a three-storey water slide, outdoor pool and nearby Katy’s Cove), spa, oceanfront golf course (reconfigured by Thomas McBroom), tennis courts and pretty walking paths, the resort’s 130-year reputation as a healthy retreat is as strong as ever. After a day whale watching or exploring the town, however, a Minister’s Island ice tea on the hotel’s long verandah might be the healthiest choice. Despite the resorts amenities and famed golf course, it’s also an ideal base for exploration. St. Andrews might be the prettiest town most Canadians have never heard of. With only 1,800 full-time residents, it’s blessed with scores of attractive 18th- and 19th-century homes, churches and businesses, all packed into 50 small blocks arrayed alongside the historic harbour. The town includes a number of Loyalist cottages barged up from Maine after the American War of Independence, as well as fanciful mansions built by leading architects of the day (like Maxwell). St. Andrews has remained in a remarkably quaint state of preservation partly because the residents never wanted it to change. There is a wonderful profile of St. Andrews published in Maclean’s magazine back in 1952. Written by Ian Sclanders, the story playfully critiques the town’s stuffy, change-averse nature. There’s an anecdote of a house-hunting new arrival frustrated by the affluent residents’ mania for tall, thick cedar hedges that block all views of their properties. So he hires a small plane and is rewarded with a bird’s eye view of the extraordinary residents doing ordinary things like gardening and gossiping. The hedges are still here. But thanks to an inundation of wild deer over the last couple of years, they are greatly diminished, the lower branches devoured by ravenous ungulates. The wealthy can’t hide behind their hedges anymore. Even though philanthropist Lucinda Flemer is a third-generation summer resident—her grandfather is mentioned in the Maclean’s article— she embodies a new attitude. She wants to change things: bring more tourists to town and provide better employment and recreational opportunities for locals, all the while giving back to under-serviced communities like veterans and the visually impaired. Flemer supports a number of projects that play an outsize role in St. Andrews. Kingsbrae Garden is a public garden and horticultural training facility that Flemer began with her husband in 1998. Located on what used to be part of her grandparents’ estate. In 2016, Flemer expanded Kingsbrae’s footprint by purchasing a neighbouring mansion and turning it into an artist centre. With around 150,000 tourists now flocking to St. Andrews annually, the town has opened itself up to everyone. Rural charms, fascinating history, bounteous sea—to visit St. Andrews is to fall in love. And hope to return. Rooms from $260/night in high season, from $124/night off-season. algonquinresort.com

AGENDA | STAY

easide attractions A true maritime capital, Helsinki is a sea-lover’s paradise. Curator Taru Tappola gives us a tour

Löyly Helsinki is a modern seaside sauna.

HOTEL Helsinki is going through a hotel-building boom right now. My first pick would be the Torni Hotel, because it has a tower with beautiful views, but it’s being renovated. [The reopening is scheduled for 2021.] I also like Hotel Lilla Roberts, which is a nice, intimate hotel with a beautiful 1930s Art Deco interior. lillaroberts.com

s head of public art at Helsinki Art Museum, Taru Tappola is responsible for curating the sculptures and installations in the city’s private and public spaces. As co-head curator (with Pirkko Siitari) for the city’s first-ever Biennial, which is expected to open at a later time due to the Covid-19 crisis, she’s responsible for presenting approximately 35 international artists or groups of artists from Finland around the world. The Finnish capital is surrounded by islands and Vallisaari Island will be the very unique base for the ambitious Maritime-inspired program. Helsinki has grown rapidly over the last decade; the population of the metro region now exceeds 1.5 million. That growth has brought more large-scale development, including an estimated 30 hotel projects currently underway, and more ethnic diversity, which has made for lively streets and an even livelier nightlife. In her own words, here are Tappola’s recommendations for visitors. helsinkibiennaali.fi

This waterfront optic-art installation is one of the city’s many pieces of public art.

FINE DINING Once or twice a year I try to visit Grön, which means “green.” They offer very local, seasonal food, much of it organic. Their speciality is herbs and ingredients that they pick from nature and they display a lot of it on their walls. It’s vegan friendly but their tartar beef is legendary. Very Scandanavian modern design. We don’t have many Michelin star restaurants, but they have one. restaurantgron.com 28

ATTRACTION Helsinki is a city by the sea, so I’d recommend visiting some of the islands. Regularly scheduled boats, I guess you’d call them water buses, leave from Market Square to many of the islands. Go to Pihlajasaari for swimming. There are traditional wooden ships in Pohjoisranta in the summer season, but you see them at the dockyard in Suomenlinna in wintertime.

Taru Tappola photo by HAM/Maija Toivanen; aerial photo by Joel Pallaskorpi; optical art photo by Tommi Selander

AGENDA | LOCAL EXPERT

A sculpture by Swedish artist Jacob Dahlgren can be seen from the city’s tram system.

NEIGHBOURHOOD

HAM photo by Helsinki Marketing; Sculpture photo by Tapio Haaja

Kalasatama is one of the new residential areas being built. It’s still in the making, which is very interesting for me. New architecture by the seaside. New ways of living in the city might develop there. Neighbouring Suvilahti is the place to go for cultural events. There’s a former gas works that’s been developed into an event space. uuttahelsinkia.fi/fi/kalasatama

Tennispalatsi is home to the Helsinki Art Museum.

DESIGN

CULTURAL INSTITUTION My institution is HAM, Helsinki Art Museum, and we always have something worth seeing. We’re owned by the city and have a big responsibility to have many different kinds of art, art that’s easier to understand and art that’s more demanding. I’d also recommend EMMA [Espoo Museum of Modern Art], which is located in a former printing house. They have a good variety of exhibits, 20th century Finnish art to Contemporary. And they have a very nice lobby. hamhelsinki.fi; emmamuseum.fi

A seafood-inspired matryoshka at Salakauppa.

Salakauppa is a “secret shop” by designer duo Aamu Song and Johan Olin [their company is called Company]. It’s just a kiosk where they sell their very unique designs: clothes, bags, shoes, objects. They’ve had a project for many years where they will design products based on traditional designs, but with a twist, and they produce the items locally where they have found their inspiration. salakauppa.fi; com-pa-ny.com

CASUAL DINING SECRET OF THE CITY

“Nolla” means zero and Restaurant Nolla is very ecological. They don’t throw away anything. They make compost from waste food and add it to the soil to grow plants. The food is very good, with a lot of seasonal ingredients, a lot of vegetables so it’s very vegan friendly, but they also have fish. The décor is nice, with art on the walls. But you don’t have to dress up. restaurantnolla.com

Being responsible for public art, I can tell you that there are 500 public artworks around the city. You could do a walking tour or take the tram to see many of them. Buy a 90-minute return ticket. We have a list of them on our webpage. hamhelsinki.fi/en/public-art/

COFFEESHOP There are many independent cafés in the Sörnäinen district. Cafe Cardemumma has a warm intimate atmosphere, quite homey. Every time I go they make me feel very welcome. And they serve a great Finnish cinnamon roll called a pulla. cafecardemumma.fi 29

Photos by Jaxson Bryden, Alex Holyoake, Marcus Lofvenberg

AGENDA | WANDERLUST

Unleash the Dalmatians Three sun-dappled spots on Croatia’s coast guaranteed to enchant by Vawn Himmelsbach

edieval towns, seaside olive groves, vineyards on craggy mountains, fields of rosemary—it sounds like France or Italy, but this is Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast. While it’s not exactly a secret anymore, I can still find hidden coves and deserted beaches along this string of islands dotting the Adriatic Sea. After all, there’s 1,800 kilometres of coastline and 1,100 islands and islets here—some green and lush, others karst-rock—and more than 80 per cent of these islands are uninhabited. Most can be reached by ferry from the mainland, but I chose to island hop on a traditional boat, gleaming of polished wood and brass. Whether holiday-makers want to be immersed in nature, stroll through centuries-old walled towns or party until the sun comes up, there’s a Dalmatian island for that. Here are three options for exploring the Adriatic’s island gems. 30

Korčula

Clockwise from top left Makarska sits between Biokovo mountain and the coastline; yachting is the perfect way to explore the area; beyond Hvar’s harbour is a charming historic core.

I’m sipping a glass of grk. I don’t know exactly how to pronounce it—I mainly ordered it because the word doesn’t have a vowel. But it’s one of the indigenous wines of Croatia, grown in the Korčula region. The island is dotted with small villages, but most visitors make their way to Korčula Town to see its 13th century walls, medieval squares and stone houses with orange-tiled roofs. It’s often referred to as Little Dubrovnik, a smaller (and far less crowded) version of the country’s capital. This walled town has a rich history—it was settled by the Greeks and subsequent conquerors including the Romans, Venetians and Austro-Hungarians. It’s also believed explorer Marco Polo was born here (when it was part of the Venetian Empire), though this is much debated. It’s also the place to try Croatian wine. Yes, Croatia has a wine industry—the Greeks were planting vines here as long as 2,500 years ago. But it fell into decline during its occupation during the world wars and post-war communist rule under the Yugoslavian flag, then again during the Serbo-Croatian war of the early 1990s. Now, small family producers and cooperatives are once again cultivating the land, as their ancestors did. I sampled grk at a konoba (a family-run restaurant) atop the ancient city walls overlooking the sea. Thanks to its proximity to Italy, Korčula is also known for its homemade goat cheese and melt-in-your-mouth zrnovski makaruni—Croatia’s version of macaroni, but better—served with rich beef sauce. They match well with pošip (a white grape varietal indigenous to Korčula) and plavac mali, a red grape varietal grown along the Dalmatian Coast.

Mljet

Walking through the pine-scented forest of Mljet as the sun begins to sink low in the sky, I’m starting to wonder if I’d somehow wandered off the main path. I haven’t seen another human being for about an hour, which seems odd—considering I’m on a popular island in the middle of summer (and one that many locals consider the country’s most beautiful). Turns out, I wasn’t lost. More than 70 per cent of this island is covered in pine forest, and one-third is a designated national park, with no development allowed. So it’s not impossible to find a heavenly slice of solitude, even during the busy summer season. Of course, I’m not the only one who’s been enchanted by Mljet. Legend has it that Odysseus loved it here so much, he stayed for seven years (there’s even an Odysseus Cave on the island). Mljet National Park covers 5,400 hectares of land, with rugged coastline, forested paths and even ancient ruins. It’s Croatia’s greenest island, also known for its two saltwater lakes, Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero, with a surreal blue colour; they’re favourite swimming spots for locals. In the middle of Veliko Jezero is the Benedictine Monastery on St. Mary’s Island. This fairytale islet dates back to the 12th century, and the monastery—designed in the style of a Renaissance villa and garden—still retains its original fortification walls and towers (built to protect it from pirate attacks). There’s also Roman ruins, olive trees, swimming spots and a café.

Hvar

There’s something about Hvar Town that calls for a mid-afternoon Aperol Spritz. While the summery aperitif hails from Italy, it suits the Mediterranean vibe of Hvar’s sidewalk cafés, palmlined marble promenade and yacht-filled harbour. The island of Hvar is known as the sunniest spot in Croatia, and chic Hvar Town is where the well-heeled come for gelato and cocktails. During the day, yachties explore the nearby Pakleni Islands, a series of bays and beaches with clear blue waters. Or they stroll a short distance from town to find some of the best coves for swimming, snorkelling and suntanning—like Dubovica Beach, a pebble beach about eight kilometres east of town, in a secluded bay surrounded by olive groves and pine trees. At night, Hvar comes to life. The town is an architectural beauty, with winding cobblestone streets, a piazza bordered by palaces and a cathedral, and an ancient hilltop fortress with 13th-century walls towering above town. And it’s jam-packed with restaurants, cafés, bars and clubs—so many, it’s hard to settle on just one. I eventually discover a konoba tucked away at the end of a stone alleyway overlooking the cathedral, for the island’s signature dish of gregada, a fish stew with garlic, onions and potatoes, all washed down with the family’s homemade wine. Watching the sun set over this ancient seaside town, it seems Hvar is just like the wine: intoxicating. 31

AGENDA | FOOD DIARIES

With Hearth, Beth Rogers & Thayne Robstad have refined traditional Saskatchewan cuisine

he only restaurant in Saskatoon to crack OpenTable’s ranking of the top 100 restaurants in Canada, Hearth is most definitely a labour of love. Partners in business and life, Beth Rogers and Thayne Robstad met about 13 years ago while they were cooking at other restaurants. Their love of kitchen life cemented their bond. “At the beginning it seemed like a rather lofty goal to have our own restaurant,” says Robstad. After some time travelling around the country, they returned to Saskatoon and started a small catering company. In 2018, they went bricks-and-mortar with Hearth. “We took over the space of a trashy dive bar and started renovating, which took about a year,” says Rogers. Hearth immediately started to attract acclaim. The concept was a rare one—food that has a decidedly Saskatchewan identity. “We wanted to serve dishes that our grandmas would make for us,” says Robstad. A couple of years into the 15-hour-day lifestyle, they’re now focusing on creating a better work-life balance, adopting the slogans, “Every day is better than the last” and “There’s no such thing as being caught up.” Though Robstad is mostly back of the house, Rogers front of the house, there’s no strict separation of duties. Like good Prairie people, they know when they need to chip in. —PAUL GALLANT 32

Robstad: That was a special day. We had just set the bar up, a single piece of concrete we had poured. We had wired the lights for the first time. It was seven months into the renovations and it was the first time it felt like a real space was going to come out of all this work. Rogers: You pour the piece of concrete upside down and then you have to flip it over. It is terrifying. They often crack. We called everyone we knew to come help so there were 14 of us flipping it over. Thankfully it didn’t crack. Robstad: Our stipulation for the concrete was that you had to be able to dance on that bar.

Robstad: Pork belly is a perfect dish for the fall. We’ve got some chanterelles on there, such a beautiful Saskatchewan product. We source local honey. When the summer comes we have three or four farming connections who will offer us different things. Rogers: We’ll go picking our own mushrooms. But things like kale in the winter, lemons, obviously are not local. We do the best we can, but we don’t want to be snotty about it. We like lemons.

Robstad: Our meat supplier Pine View Farms mirror our feelings about how meat should be raised and handled. We pay homage to the fact that Saskatchewan can be very meat and potatoes. Rogers: You need a sense of humour to run a restaurant. It’s a daily lesson in humility.

Robstad: Picking mushrooms is one of our favourite things to do outside running the restaurant. Saskatchewan chanterelles are a hot commodity. They’re shipped all over the world because they have an excellent composition. For many people, that’s their livelihood, so there’s lots of competition. Rogers: We’re not telling you where we go to get them, absolutely not.

Robstad: We still do a lot of catering and do these massive charcuterie boards. Beth’s father is a woodworker, so we’re constantly going to him and asking, “Can you turn this massive piece of raw lumber into a cheese board?” A few weeks later, he’ll come to us with a 10-foot board. We’ll do one for 100 people that needs two people to walk it in. People freak out when they see it. Rogers: Our general manager is really teeny so it’s really funny when she holds it.

Robstad: Northern pike or jackfish is considered to be a throwaway fish. But treated correctly, it can be an incredible Saskatchewan ingredient and make a great dish. Rogers: We had to experiment a lot. Nothing ever comes out the way we want right off the bat. We don’t change the menu all at once; we make sure it’s perfected before we put something on the menu.

Rogers: That’s us goofing around to show what’s coming from our farmers and our gardens. We garden at home and my mom has an incredible garden. She grows a lot of stuff for us to use as garnishes. 33

AGENDA | DINE & DRINK

Berlin’s cathedral’s official name is the Evangelical Supreme Parish and Collegiate Church.

kopps’ sugar snap peas and gooseberry gazpacho.

erliners have a reputation for being progressive and curious, so it comes as no surprise that the German capital is on the vanguard of Europe’s plant-based food scene. The city’s 50-plus vegan restaurants make for a herbivore dream destination. Even for a meat eater like myself, the meat-free culinary delights make it worth skipping the schnitzel (at least for one meal) and embracing the greens. Here, my three top tongue-ticklers. —LOREN CHRISTIE

kopps

Opened in 2011, this staple of Berlin’s vegan scene has reinvented itself over the past three years, from reasonably run of the mill to a memorable must, unabashedly proclaiming itself on the top end of the city’s food chain. The servers proudly boast that there are no meat substitutes on the menu, and describe the intricacies of each vegetable-based dish in gushing detail. “The goal is to create menus that reinvent childhood memories,” executive chef Niklas Miriaioui tells me. That translates as: Familiarity in the flavours but new and dynamic in the execution. The minimalist modern décor is tempered with low lighting, generous touches of greenery and a mix of cozy alcoves and communal tables. All of which give kopps an unexpectedly homey feel. The experience is conducive to conversation and the building anticipation over their much-loved tasting menu, which we order. I ask our nook neighbours, two courses ahead of us, if they were enjoying everything. Long-time vegan Justin tells me he loves it. His vegetarian wife, Kiyomi, agreed. In other restaurants, “we fight about the lack of cheese,” Kiyomi says with a laugh. But not here. kopps-berlin.de

FREA

Berlin takes its meatlessness very seriously by Loren Christie

Bistro Bardot

Located close to Boxhagener Platz in Berlin’s trendy Friedrichshain district, this recently opened deli was packed during my morning visit. Brightly lit, with big windows and high ceilings, Bistro Bardot is known for its generous Mediterranean-inspired breakfast buffet, suited for both vegans and vegetarians. Travellers who want to fully embrace a cruelty-free lifestyle will be pleased to discover that Bistro Bardot is attached to the Almodóvar Hotel, which proudly promotes a long list of green initiatives: organic, fair trade and energy-efficiency offerings reign supreme. The Bardot’s crowd, it seems, sleeps, eats and breathes sustainability. Or at least that’s what I convinced myself when, as I walked back to my table with a plate of vegan currywurst, a woman with spikey pink hair glared at my leather shoes. A look similar to one I imagine you might get wearing a muumuu at a nude beach? bistrobardot.de

Cathedral photo by Julia Solonina

Herbivore Heaven

Tucked on a warmly lit residential street amidst the hustle and bustle of Berlin Mitte, FREA gives the initial impression that it’s an unassuming neighbourhood gem. There’s an open concept kitchen, a straightforward menu and lots of lively conversations in German. What is less obvious is that FREA is the first zero-waste restaurant in Germany. Open for about a year, the ground-breaking endeavour by caterers David Suchy and Jasmin Martin does not merely do sustainable. The focus is as much on taste as on the ethical philosophy. But, oh, the philosophy. The tasty pear cake and sorbet, for example, have a sauce made from the peel; every piece of the fruit is used except the stem. Everything served is produced at local farms; any waste is composted within 24 hours and sent back to those same farms. The philosophy does not end with the ingredients. The chairs were repurposed from an old East German patrol office and the lampshades are made of dried mushrooms. “In case of Armageddon you could eat the lampshades,” jokes Suchy. frea.de

Cinco a Siete In Playa del Carmen, finding a great cocktail is as easy as finding the beach by Cathy Riches

ost of us are familiar with “cinq à sept,” a time when fashionable people gather for smart cocktails. Those who look in the right corners of Playa del Carmen can find excellent crafted cocktails that go down well at this time of day. Call it “Cinco a siete.” The classic tequila cocktail of Mexico is, of course, the Margarita. When made with fresh lime juice, not the icky bar mix, it’s the perfect magic-hour cocktail. These days, however, mezcal is trending. Tequila’s smoky cousin, which often required a bit more nuance in the mixology, has become the star of just about every drinks menu throughout Playa. Here’s what we found at some local cocktail masters. Parrilla Urbana is one of the newer places in Playa del Carmen; its upscale vibe and décor provides a welcome oasis from which to watch the passing show on busy Quinta Avenida. All day 2-for-1 drink specials and complimentary snacks make it one of the best deals, too. Try the tamarind-mezcal cocktail with charred rosemary for a nice balance of sour and smoky. Calle 38 Norte, in the north end of town, is lined with good restaurants doing authentic, local cuisine. Cocktails, too. Amate38 sits in a jungle-like setting within earshot of the trickling water of one of the underground caves (cenotes) that the region is known for. Hand-crafted mezcales dominate the small cocktail menu here. When combined with local honey, habanero and pineapple juice, it’s a flavour fiesta. amate38.com

There’s nothing like sipping something cool beachside.

Trujillo’s aquafaba gin and red wine cocktail.

Coconut photo by @davlatino

Just down the street, Trujillo’s upscale vibe and black-clad wait staff read as more Manhattan than Mexico, but the menu is devoted to traditional dishes. Cocktails here are helpfully organized in taste categories like umami and refrescante. If you’re feeling bubbly, try a Tropical Fizz, made with Hendrick’s gin, citrus juice, prosecco and a spicy local vermouth. Pox is the latest trendy alcohol in Mexico, and like so many things that become trendy, it has a long and rich history in the area where it’s made, the state of Chiapas. Now being served in smart bars in Mexico City, it’s often served straight up with a slice of orange on the side. The only place in Playa I was able to find it is La Perla Pixan. A low-key palaparoofed restaurant with live music every night and a friendly bartender, they also serve pulque, a traditional fermented drink. facebook.com/Laperlapixan 35

An ethereal glass sculpture guards the lobby of the Jumeirah at Saadiyat Island Resort.

AGENDA | TRAVEL TWO WAYS

Beach Bunny or Exhibitionist? Abu Dhabi Two Ways by Ruth J. Katz

AGENDA | TRAVEL TWO WAYS

Island Indolence A

s I ascend to the terrace level of the Jumeirah at Saadiyat Island Resort’s eatery, White, I realize I need not have worried whether I’d find something to slake my hunger. In this cavernous restaurant, there is more than e-n-o-u-g-h for a ravenous breakfast-seeker. The buffet offerings are a Lucillan groaning board of international feasts, not merely Arabic specialties: Western he-man offerings, Eastern porridges and rice medleys, Middle Eastern yoghurts and fruits, Chinese dim sum, pad Thai, Moroccan tagines, a station just for crêpes, waffles and pancakes, and a plethora of different kinds of dates, meats, cereals…and did I mention the smorgasbord of breadstuffs? You could tank up in the morning and not eat again for a few days, camel-style. But then you’d miss out on having a sumptuous dinner at Tean, the hotel’s Levantine restaurant, with cuisine crafted expertly by chef Mahmoud Bayoumi. This is, after all, the United Arab Emirates, and excess is not reined in. Bayoumi has capped his exquisite menu with a rose-and-pistachio crème brûlée, embellished with splashes of 24-karat gold. Of course. (And don’t miss out on the délices in the hotel’s snug, lobby coffee bar, Majlis Saadiyat, either.) Food, of course, is not the only reason to come to this luxurious nirvana. Minutes from downtown Abu Dhabi (and those legendary luxe shopping arcades), the hotel is also a stone’s throw from the eco-friendly Gary Player Golf Course and the stunning, enthralling 38

Louvre Abu Dhabi. The resort is perched arguably on the UAE’s most glorious, pristine beach, commanding 400 metres of the fivekilometre island perimetre. Water is the headliner here, apparent in the massive lobby, where a dramatic, Bohemian-glass sculpture invokes an underwater biosphere; it dangles tantalizingly from the ceiling, all 30 tonnes of it. Hundreds of luminescent crystals, forming sinewy tentacles, arc and dip across an expanse 32 by 26 metres. The azure, iris and peacock glass globes, seashells and amoeba-like forms gleam with a gold-plated luster. The 293 well-appointed rooms and the eight on-property villas provide all the amenities you’d expect, including, of course, a view of the gulf. Tear yourself away from your balcony or beach perch to visit SPA, the hotel-owned and operated palace to wellness. Jumeirah has teamed up with Bodyism, a leading health-oriented brand dedicated to creating balance and synergy for the body, mind and soul. SPA facilities include a sauna; hydrotherapy; steam; hammam and Arabic rhassoul rooms; an ice fountain; “adventure” showers; and a wondrous chromotherapy chamber, with fantasy-like, intense lighting, to encourage inner tranquility. Even if you do not bask in the glow in the chromotherapy chamber, you’ll assuredly find inner peace at this indulgent island retreat. Rooms from $425/night. jumeirah.com

Enjoying food and drinks beach side; Jumeirah at Saadiyat Island Resort’s private beach.

AGENDA | TRAVEL TWO WAYS

Going full tilt D

espite a comfortable and cossetting 14-hour business-class trip on Etihad Airlines to Abu Dhabi, I was a little bleary-eyed and unfocused when I entered the Andaz hotel lobby on the 18th floor of the mythic Capital Gate building. Where was registration? There was a coffee bar, stacks of edgy magazines in a cozy library, pulsating music, a lively vibe, but no front desk. The art-filled lobby was an extension to the ground-floor art gallery, both of which “pop,” kinda like the Andaz logo itself, in Crayola colours, diverse fonts and upper- and lower-case letters. This five-star property is youthful and, in a word, happening. Even at midnight. The vibrant tones of the furnishings and the blown-glass, light-fixture bubbles suspended from the ceiling, both add to the joie. Well, there is no reception desk. I sit down at one of the round tables and magically, as if from a desert mirage, a staff member appears, welcoming me with an Arabic coffee, drenched in spices, accompanied by what the Andaz calls its “hala-hello,” a tray laden with tempting, date-based treats. Once ensconced in my room, I drink in the serenity of the rolling waves of the Gulf, just beyond the glass-clad wall. The Capital Gate building is an architectural marvel, the brainchild of the Abu Dhabi National Exhibitions Company, and constructed adjacent to its National Exhibition Centre. A swooshing mesh wave shimmies down the side of the building, underscoring the fluidity and grace of the structure, as it connects with the centre. The edifice is a gravity-defying leaning tower of crystal (with more than 700 triangular panes). It has earned a place in the Guinness Book of World Records, as the world’s furthest-leaning manmade tower, listing a full 18 degrees, four times more than the Leaning Tower of Pisa. There is no symmetry on any axis and no two rooms are alike. But all rooms (188, including 21 suites) are blessed with majestic views, bisected by strong steel armatures and rectilinear supports. Mine was outfitted with an oversize, egg-shaped soaking tub, perched at the window’s edge. Rooms are also stocked with Andaz loungewear—hanging on the wall was a coral wrap-dress-cum-robe, lavishly embroidered, designed by United Arab Emirates’ fashion star, Essa Walla, who has cloaked Lady Gaga. The dining area, 18 Degrees, and the adjoining cocktail terrace (aglow at night with playful party lights) also offer sweeping vistas. The rooms and public spaces reinforce Middle Eastern motifs, embellished with impressionistic khatt calligraphy, elaborate, ethnic al sadu embroidery, palm-date iconography and signature mashrabiya lattice work. The Capital Gate building is a phenomenon, indeed, and a stay at the Andaz is, indeed, a suitable way to lean into your first night in Abu Dhabi. Rooms from $344/night. hyatt.com

Clockwise Andaz’s colourful lobby; Capital Gate is known as the Leaning Tower of Abu Dhabi; have a seat in the 165 Below gallery.

AGENDA | GLOBETROTTER

Around the world with G Adventures founder

BRUCE POON TIP n an era where we increasingly worry about how mass tourism can harm destinations, G Adventures founder Bruce Poon Tip remains confident that travellers have the power to make the world a better place. By spending their money at locally owned businesses, visitors can spread the wealth around and create good jobs and business opportunities in places that sorely need the investment. Poon Tip, in 2018 named one of Canada’s Most Admired CEOs by talent management firm Waterstone Human Capital, founded G Adventures in 1990 as a socially responsible way for people to travel. The company now offers more than 700 tours in 100 countries, on all seven continents, relying on local guides and suppliers to create tangible connections between travellers and locals. Poon Tip has also founded Planeterra Foundation, a non-profit organization which has, since 2003, invested millions of dollars to support nonprofits, grassroots community organizations, particularly those empowering women and youth. These organizations can then provide meaningful— and sometimes very tasty—experiences for travellers. planeterra.org Where in the world have you felt happiest? Madrid, Spain. To get away from it all, I go to: Barbados. What’s the one thing you pack for every trip? Wine gums. What’s your essential item for making travel more comfortable? Disinfectant wipes. What’s your guilty pleasure while travelling? Food. When I’m home I watch what I eat but when I’m away, I eat at restaurants for all three meals, and tend to indulge and eat what I want. What’s your pet travel peeve? Countries that make you fill out multiple forms from multiple agencies asking for the same info upon arrival. It doesn’t give you a great first impression of the country. What piece of travel advice do you love to share? Never leave the country without having a meal or sharing food with a local. Who is your favourite travelling companion? Most of my business travel is alone. I cherish that time when I can unplug, think and read on airplane rides. Those trips are usually by myself though. My favourite travelling companions are my family. Which travel experience most changed your worldview and why? Traveling to Tibet forever changed my world view and the connection between life, business, heart and spirituality.

Who is the most interesting person you’ve met on your travels? I met Bryan Adams on a plane and had the chance to chat with him. He’s an interesting guy. But in destination, it’d have to be the Dalai Lama. He’s always inspiring and he’s the only person that I’ve met a few times and remain in awe every time. What trip-of-a-lifetime lies ahead for you? At some point I want to do the Trans-Siberain railway from Beijing to Moscow. I need more time to do it, which I don’t have at the moment. But that trip definitely lies ahead of me. I lost my heart in.... Hoi An, Vietnam. Beautiful place, beautiful people, beautiful food and extremely charming nightlife. What’s the place you were/are most nervous about visiting? In some areas of West Africa, where there are issues around food security. Tell us about a time when you got lost and what you learned from it. I once got lost in Little Havana, Miami, and it was an enriching experience. It forced me to connect with locals and I ended up meeting someone who ran a Cuban salsa fitness class. I returned and attended one of the classes. If you could live in any other city in the world (other than your own), which would it be and why? Windhoek, Namibia. It’s a German settlement with modern conveniences. You can travel between old, traditional and new Africa. There’s high-speed Internet and technology, and great Schools. I actually planned to move there at one point to run the company. I still hope to live there one day.

ISLAS SECAS RESERVE & LODGE At this pristine private archipelago, a new luxury lodge combines sustainability with total seclusion

Photo by Subhkaran Singh

hose seeking a remote commune with nature should direct their attention to the warm waters of the Gulf of Chiriqui. There, about 32 kilometres off the Pacific coast of Panama, they’ll find the 14-island archipelago called Islas Secas. Once known as Panama’s “Lost Coast,” it’s the perfect place to get truly, deeply, intimately, swooningly lost. Along with various rays, turtles, dolphins, whales, tropical fish, birds of prey and Rufous-tailed hummingbirds, the archipelago is home to Islas Secas Reserve & Lodge. First founded as a no-frills fishing lodge, the property was reinvented and reopened in 2019 as a luxury property with room for just 18 guests in nine thatched-roof casitas. It’s all inclusive—guests certainly won’t want to be going anywhere else to eat. Terraza restaurant, designed by award-winning Colombian architect Simón Vélez, serves sophisticated sea-to-table cuisine crafted by executive chef Alexander Rojas. The luxury is concertedly off-the-grid, targeting the eco-conscious and marine-focused traveller. Think solar power, sustainable wood and other materials, reclaimed water and 100 percent food composting. Billionaire conservationist Louis Bacon, the man behind Tordrillo’s Mountain Lodge in Alaska, has set aside 75 per cent of Islas Secas for conservation in perpetuity in order to safeguard the diverse marine ecosystem. How to pass the time when not merely luxuriating? Islas Secas offers an array of marine safaris and immersive natural experiences on land and sea. You don’t have to be an expert to try your hand at scuba diving, snorkelling, fishing or whale watching. islassecas.com

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Handmade Portugaba tote, crafted in white canvas, multicoloured embroidery and traditional ceramic beads, $2,790, Christian Louboutin, us.christianlouboutin.com

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SUCH GREAT HEIGHTS Whether you’re hiking up an active volcano or lounging by the shore, Nicaragua never lets you forget its natural beauty

itting at an outdoor table at El Sesteo Restaurant, on the main square of León, Nicaragua, I watch the locals going about their daily lives, some busy, some taking it easy. As a spot for people-watching, the plaza in front of the enormous León Cathedral can’t be beat. Plantains and fish tacos, washed down with a cool pineapple smoothie—it’s my first day and Nicaragua is already shaping up to be one of my favourite travel adventures. That flush of excitement carried through my entire journey as I visit Granada, Masaya and, on the opposite side of the country, Big Corn Island. The common thread is the warm welcome everywhere I travel. At the end of each day, I find myself basking in the warm rays of sunset, thinking of all the friendly faces I had encountered in the previous 24 hours. Over the past few years, Nicaragua has become a highly desired destination for those looking to experience real natural beauty. Known as the “land of lakes and volcanoes,” it has also become known for its authentic cultural experiences—some as simple as a meal with a local restaurant owner—and thrilling eco-adventures, like sandboarding (as opposed to snowboarding) down an active volcano or feeding monkeys avocados from a boat. Although it’s the largest country in Central America, about the same size as New York state, Nicaragua is a surprisingly easy country to get around. Many of the key attractions are scattered around the lowlands that stretch along the Pacific coast. Marked by colonial cities, beautiful beaches and more than 20 volcanoes, my tour of the region thrills at each turn in the road. But then I visit the Caribbean coast and discover an entirely new way of looking at the country.

by Megan Griffith

Photographer Julien Capmeil

Taking the slow way down Nicaragua’s Cerro Negro volcano.

Clockwise from top left Masaya’s market may be the best place in the country to buy handicrafts; a capuchin monkey has some lunch; a stroll in front of Palacio Episcopal; traditional masks; out on the waters of Lake Nicaragua; the iconic Granada Cathedral.

ranada is a city of colonial-era architecture, a wide array of restaurants and a nationally famous nightlife scene. Though it’s not one of Nicaragua’s biggest cities (the population is a little more than 100,000 people), it might be the best known—and most entrancing. At the Garden Café, I sit among locals and travellers enjoying a bite or a cold drink. I’m hoping my Indio Nuevo —a marinated chicken skewer with rice, grilled cheese, onions and peppers and corn tortillas—will give me more than enough energy to explore the city by foot. Revelling in its relatively flat geography, I wander the colonial streets of one of the oldest cities in the New World. Founded by the Spanish conqueror Francisco Hernandez de Cordoba in 1524, Granada has, in our era, evolved to become something of Nicaragua’s cultural capital— where residents of Managua would, for example, launch a stylish new business or spend a relaxing weekend. I take a tour of the factory of Mombacho Cigars of Nicaragua, one of the top cigar companies in a nation that takes its tobacco very seriously. I watch a torcedor roll a cigar right before my eyes and get a lesson in rolling them myself. Walking around the Casa Favilli mansion, a historic beauty built in 1925 that serves as the company’s showroom, I learn about the whole cigar-manufacturing process. Of course, Mombacho is not the only enterprise with an impressive home base in Granada. Mansion de Chocolate, built by the former president Evaristo Carazo around 1860, is nowadays dedicated to the production and the pleasures of cocoa. At the end of my fascinating tour there, I am given the chance to make my own chocolate bar. For a beginner, I must say I do a pretty good job.

Not everything in Granada is about indulgences. The city is on the shore of Lake Nicaragua, the enormous freshwater lake that defines the country, and so it makes a perfect jumping-off point for aquatic expeditions. That includes Las Isletas de Granda, approximately 365 small islands that were formed after a volcanic eruption. Some visitable, some privately owned (when you’re boating around, keep your eye out for mansions), many of the islands are covered in lush vegetation. After my day’s activities in Granada, I investigate the city’s famed nightlife. Strolling Calle La Calzada, I enjoy the music from pubs and karaoke. Surveying the many bar patrons relaxing and chatting at tables on the pedestrianized street, I feel welcome and at ease.

s beautiful as Granada is, it has a worthy rival—León. For a while, the two cities took turns as Nicaragua’s capital before Managua was made capital in 1852. With a population of more than 200,000 people, and several universities, León is a vibrant, friendly place, full of citizens proud of their city. Stopping at a small shop to try a Nicaraguan elote (grilled corn on the cob), I tell the store owner it’s my first time in Nicaragua. Without hesitation, he tells me a list of places I absolutely must visit before I leave. Probably the biggest point of civic pride is the cathedral, formally known as La Basílica de la Asunción, which opened in 1814 after many years of construction. The largest cathedral in Central America, its scale hints at León’s grand ambitions. The cathedral’s all-white exterior includes its expansive rooftop—it’s a must-do to ascend and take a sock-footed walk up there amid the cupolas. From my perch, I see the cityscape, as well as volcanoes in the distance.

hen travelling around Nicaragua, it’s hard to ignore the volcanoes dotting the landscape. I find myself imagining the views that might be enjoyed from the tops of them. Sometimes I don’t have to imagine. Hiking up Mombacho volcano, which is about 1,344 metres high, is like walking through a forest filled with endless nature and greenery. It’s windy up at the top, but the panoramic view of the region, including Masaya volcano, about 25 kilometres away, is incredible. The wide open spaces up this high make me feel so alive. Some volcano adventures are much less tranquil—and much more thrilling. Cerro Negro, about an hour’s drive from León, is one of the youngest and most active of Nicaragua’s volcanoes, an ominous charcoalcoloured presence on the landscape. But it’s not simply a matter of looking at it. Visitors can hike up the 738 metres of Cerro Negro to take in the surrounding landscape—and, once they’ve reached the top, they can sandboard down the steep slope of it, trailing a cloud of volcanic ash behind them. I put on bluejean coveralls to protect me from the volcano rocks and, letting my sandboard tip over the edge of the cliff, I feel the adrenaline rush as I slide down as fast as I possibly can. I lean back to increase my speed, sledding down over the volcanic ash, the cool wind blowing in my face. A group of other travellers behind me cheer me on. For those who prefer depth rather than altitude, chill rather than rush, there’s Laguna de Apoyo, a nature reserve located between Masaya and Granada. The lagoon, actually a crater that formed about 23,000 years, is surrounded by eco-resorts and opportunities to engage in outdoor activities like swimming, kayaking and boating. I spend hours here reading on the shore and swimming in the warm, blue water. Periodically, I look up at the green cliffs around me and can’t help but smile at how beautiful and at ease I feel.

rom the Pacific lowlands, I make a journey to the other side of the country—an 80-minute flight from Managua to Big Corn Island, located in the Caribbean Sea on the eastern coast of Nicaragua. The island, with a perimeter of just 16 kilometres, is a must-see for those looking for that romantic and idyllic spot. It’s so small and free of mass tourism, it’s easy to meet locals and find a private escape for a honeymoon. I spend a couple of hours biking around the island, taking in all the untouched nature. Halfway through my ride, I stop to just walk on the beach and stare out at the sun glistening on the water. I feel I am discovering a new world. Later in my journey, I stop at a cozy restaurant called Comedor Maris, where I order the seafood rondon. I get into a chat with the owner, Maris, about travelling around Nicaragua. She’s delighted to know I’m having such a good time. Unspoiled and less commercial than many other “eco” destinations, Nicaragua won me over with its one-of-a-kind natural experiences. My last day is a sad one, but I also know I am coming back soon.

ESSENTIAL NICARAGUA Stay

Located on one of La Isletas de Granda, Jicaro Island Lodge is a beautiful nature resort for travellers seeking a secluded getaway. This lodge is a member of National Geographic Unique Lodges of the World and was built from local materials with minimal disturbance to the land. Although the lodge has a strong focus on sustainability, it’s very well appointed. Stay in a beautiful two-story casita and enjoy the nearby spa, sauna and restaurant, all with stunning views of Lake Nicaragua. jicarolodge.com

Eat

Granada’s Garden Café Restaurant, founded and operated by Damien Hopkins and Xiomara Diaz, opened in 2007, dedicating itself to healthy, delicious food. Many of the items are made with organic and locally produced ingredients. The café also provides income to local artists and artisans, who sell their creations at the adjacent gift shop. gardencafegranada.com

Spend an afternoon at Laguna de Apoyo, while enjoying food from Posada Ecologica la Abuela. This secluded location is perfect for families or couples looking for a relaxing afternoon, swimming or simply relaxing in a hammock. posadaecologicalaabuela.com.ni

From left A traditional horse carriage waits for passengers; the beauty of Little Corn Island from above; sandboarding down the side of a live volcano.

SAVOIE FARE

Photo by Guillaume Archambault

FOR CENTURIES, TRAVELLERS SEEKING HEALTHY LIVING HAVE VISITED THE FRENCH ALPINE LAKES. PAUL GALLANT FOLLOWS IN THEIR FOOTSTEPS

Looking out over Lac du Bourget from Aix-Les-Bains.

Photo by Gilles Lansard, courtesy of Aix Riviera

Above A bird’s eye view of Lac du Bourget. Arrival at Abbaye d’Hautecombe, across the lake from Aix-Les-Bains.

Photo by Simon Mercier

n the rooftop deck of Logis Hôtel Adelphia in Aix-Les-Bains for a morning meditation session, I’m getting restless. Sure, the view of the slopes of Mont-du-Chat, less than two kilometres straight across Lac du Bourget, is spectacular, the lake itself a calming turquoise. But this is a landscape that, in my opinion, demands to be ventured through, not merely gazed upon. In Canada, beyond any given wooded promontory is often another wooded promontory, then another, then another. Visitors to Canada love that it’s so untamed. Here in France, when you traverse through a piece of natural splendour, you will, on the other side, most likely find a fascinating patch of humanity—a church, a castle, a charming village with a petit bistro serving local cheese, if we’re lucky, and a glass of Savoie wine, if we’re luckier. And so it is with great anticipation and curiosity that I step aboard Régis Lavina’s yacht for a sail up the lake. Sure enough, as we whiz north, our scarves and jackets whipping and rattling around us, the pristine beauty of Mont-du-Chat is soon punctuated by the gloriously imposing L’Abbaye d’Hautecombe, built as a home for the Cistercian monks in the 12th century. Now the base for a mixed-sex religious community (I’m told the monks decamped due to modesty; something about sunbathing on the nearby beaches), the abbey has played many different roles over the centuries—a pottery factory, for example, in those anti-religious years after the French Revolution. The abbey’s continual reinvention echoes the many different roles history has assigned this region of France best known to English speakers as Savoy. These days, Pays de Savoie makes up two departments, Savoie and HautSavoie, of France’s Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region. Yet for seven centuries, this was an independent state, most famous as a feudal territory of the powerful House of Savoy, a power that partly came from the fact that the region was a key bottleneck for traders and armies wishing to cross the Alps. It didn’t become a part of France until 1860. While all this history was unfolding, the region also developed a decidedly more recreational reputation as a place to ski, hike, bathe and breathe in the fresh Alpine air. Aix-Les-Bains has the Bonaparte clan to thank for its reputation as a spa town. “While Napoleon I and his marshals were busy conquering Europe during the summer campaigning seasons,” writes John Dormandy

“I was fortunate enough to find a very good house.... The Queen of Spain was not so well accommodated”

in his 2018 book A History of Savoy: Gatekeeper of the Alps, “the women orbiting around them, and there were many, took to the waters in Aix.” In Memoirs of Napoleon, His Court and Family, the Duchess D’Abrantés wrote of the 1812 spa season: “Aix was that year exceedingly crowded with company, and it was difficult to obtain houses. I was fortunate enough to find a very good house in the principal square. The Queen of Spain resided opposite to me, and was not so well accommodated.” Aix-Les-Bains remains a fitting base to explore the region. At the top of the lake, a picturesque canal intercepts the Rhône River as it winds its way from Lac Léman (better known to North Americans as Lake Geneva) to Lyon and then south to the Mediterranean. The village of Chanaz, which conveniently sits at the junction, contains everything a charming European village should contain: mountain and river views, adorable bistros, a coffee roaster, a 150-year-old mill still producing hazelnut and walnut products, and a craft brewery. “People said I’m crazy to do it,” says Pascal Moreau, talking about his idea to launch Brasserie de Chanaz-Bière du Biez. But the current obsession for artisanal ales seems likely to prove them wrong. The brewery, as I discovered, is a perfect place to take refuge from a sudden afternoon shower. 57

Annency, it seems, becomes a favourite French destination for almost everyone who visits. Opposite The bustling village of Yvoire.

est of Parc naturel régional du massif des Bauges—another swath of wilderness in an otherwise very civilized terrain— the medieval city of Annecy sits at the top of a lake that shares its name. The lavish castles and chateaus dotted around the lake make for some entertaining real-estate speculation. But Annecy itself, with its canals, ancient city walls and secret streets, has all an avid Instagrammer could wish for. The capital of Savoy from 1434 to 1659, Annecy was important centuries before and after. When there were rows over religion in Geneva, less than 50 kilometres away, the losers often ended up here—the 12th-century Château d’Annecy, now a museum perched on a hilltop lording over the city, was built for the counts of Geneva when they found themselves expelled by that city’s bishops. That proximity to Genevois culture can still be felt in Annency’s DNA; raclette, the melted cheese dish that’s an essential part of Switzerland’s brand, is considered a local dish here. Also influenced by the proximity to Switzerland is the town of Yvoire, on the banks of Lac Léman. Founded in 1306, three forces have earned it its place on the registry as one of France’s most beautiful villages. Firstly— you guessed it—the House of Savoy. The Savoy-adjacent Bouvier d’Yvoire family has occupied the town’s castle landmark since the 17th century. Two members of the family still live there now. The family is behind the Le Jardin des Cinq Sens, a swooningly curated garden, established in the 1980s on land adjacent to the castle. The second force was mayor Paul Jacquier, who presided over Yvoire with gusto from 1955 to 1995. By the mid-20th century, the town had become little more than a rundown fishing town, but Jacquier was zealous about transforming it. It won its first prize in the national competition for the best kept villages in 1959. He’s the one who insisted on cladding the church’s bell tower with stainless steel, so it would shine like the silver belly of the local fera fish. The third force that’s made Yvoire one of France’s top places to visit is a contemporary economic one. Yvoire is driving distance from Geneva and boating distance from Lausanne, and so has become an affordable (compared to Switzerland, anyway) and charming suburb for high-salaried Swiss cities—a high percentage of residents cross the border for work each weekday, some by boat. Though Savoie and Haute-Savoie are, on one hand, quintessentially French, their Savoy spirit lives on to this day. No matter how natural the surroundings, there’s always a cosmopolitan pull in every direction. atout-france.fr; aixlesbains-rivieradesalpes.com; en.lac-annecy.com; yvoiretourism.com; jardin5sens.net

SAVOIE ESSENTIALS STAY

Close to the train station and to Aix-Les-Bains’ nightlife, the Golden Tulip is a great base to explore the Riviera des Alpes. It has a modern design aesthetic and, of course, a spa. aix-les-bains. goldentulip.com Rustic never felt so chic. Tucked in the woods facing Lac d’Annecy, Les Tresoms resort is a true mountain retreat. Yet it’s just a 25-minute walk from the heart of the medieval town. lestresoms.com There are few accommodations in Yvoire. But Evian, the French town famous for its bottled water, is just a high-speed catamaran ride away. And it has two beautiful resort hotels that are part of Evian (the brand’s) growing hospitality empire. The more jaw-dropping of the two, which I don’t say lightly, is Hotel Royal, a belle époque five-star experience with an infinity pool that seems to be flowing into Lac Léman. But its sister property, L’Hôtel Ermitage, provides family-friendly comfort along with elegance. hotel-royal-evian.com; hotel-ermitage-evian.com

EAT Hotel Royal’s Les Fresques dining room; Jardins du Léman’s hare terrine.

Can there be anything more rejuvenating than lunching on the banks of an Alpine canal, watching kayakers and boaters float by? At Relais Gourmand, try a Roussette de Savoie Marestel with snails cooked in the skillet or even a raclette. le-doux-nid.com On a mountainside high above Lake Bourget, Belvédère de la Chambotte’s history goes back to 1882; Queen Victoria ate here. Some of the classic Savoie dishes have a modern twist, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. belvedere-la-chambotte.com Owned by chef Laurent Petit, Michelin-starred for his restaurant Le Clos des Sens, Annecy’s Brasserie Brunet is a smart, more casual alternative. It does everything from a rabbit terrine and burgers to barbecue squid. And does it all well. brasseriebrunet.com For the best experience of Jardins du Léman, head to the rooftop to take in the panoramic view of Lac Léman foregrounded by Yvoire’s medieval castle. Presented with style, the chef favours seafood—and the cheese selection is unreal. lesjardinsduleman.com

DRINK

Savoie wine is hard to come by in Canada or even outside the region, for that matter. Drop by Xavier Jacqueline winery, run by a father and daughter duo, to learn your Mondeuse from your Gringet and Roussette. xavierjacqueline.com 60

Photo by Eddy Billard

A hike up La Tournette reveals a view of Lac D’Annecy and Restaurant Le Chalet de l’Aulp.

MONTREAL MONT-SAINT-HIL AIRE SHERBROOKE OLD QUEBEC

Thermal experience • Massotherapy • Beauty treatments • Gastronomy • Events • Boutique 1 - 8 7 7 - 7 61 - 2 7 7 2 / S T R O M S P A . C O M

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MIND + BODY + SOUL

THE TOP 10 WELLNESS ESCAPES RECOMMENDED BY VIRTUOSO EXPERTS Whether you want to renew body, mind or spirit, the experts at Virtuoso, the global luxury network of travel advisors, have curated a list of compelling wellness experiences at top hotels worldwide. A recent Virtuoso survey uncovered that reducing stress and anxiety are paramount with travellers who see wellness trips as an escape that restores balance and sparks a life transformation. The survey also found spa treatments are one of the top activities during a wellness vacation. Here are Virtuoso’s top 10 places to indulge yourself, courtesy of just a few of Virtuoso’s Canadian professional travel advisors. virtuoso.com

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Grand Velas Riviera Maya, Playa del Carmen, Mexico Located in a lush jungle oasis on the Yucatán Peninsula, the award-winning Grand Velas Riviera Maya is an unforgettable wellness-meets-luxury experience from the moment you arrive. Nutritional consultants, personal trainers and wellness experts are eager to help make your stay healthy, restorative and memorable. Highlight: At SE Spa, organic treatments luxuriously infuse your skin with clean, nourishing ingredients that will leave you glowing. Finish with the Hydrotherapy Journey, a combination of Zen-inducing experiences, including an aromatherapy steam, polar plunge and multisensory pool. Book it with: Ashley Hillary, North South Travel & Tours, Vancouver, a Virtuoso Agency ashley@northsouthtravel.com +1-604-736-7447

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The Resort at Pelican Hill, Newport Coast, California, USA Nestled in more than 200 hectares of pristine coastal land, Pelican Hill is the perfect refuge for a wellness break. Immerse yourself in nature with sunrise yoga, meditation, spa treatments and miles-long beach walks along Crystal Cove. Highlight: Relax in one of the world’s largest circular pools, surrounded by architecture reminiscent of Rome. Pelican Hill’s Coliseum Pool overlooks the Pacific coast and hosts inobtrusive attendants ready to serve. Book it with: Sheila Gallant-Halloran, Lush Life Travel, an affiliate of Vision Travel, Ottawa, a Virtuoso Agency sheila.gh@visiontravel.ca +1-613-837-0699

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W Koh Samui, Koh Samui, Thailand Set upon 14 kilometres of flawless beach, the W Koh Samui offers a restful experience away from the busy Thai day-to-day. With a contemporary aesthetic and dedication to the balance of leisure and self-care, this luxury island escape cannot be missed. Highlight: Make good use of the AWAY Spa, which provides an unmatched relaxation experience that focuses on body detox, skin renewal and natural healing therapies. Book it with: Dawn Barbieri, CWT Vacations, Toronto, a Virtuoso Agency +1-833-CWT-TRIP (298-8747)

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Miraval Arizona Resort & Spa, Tucson, Arizona, USA Situated in the Santa Catalina Mountains, the Miraval Arizona Resort & Spa caters to everyone. Sand-coloured buildings and a desert backdrop instill a harmonious serenity that is felt as you explore the grounds. Luxurious rooms, specialized schedules and a hushed atmosphere encourage guests to slow down, relax and reconnect.

Highlight: Miraval Arizona has a one-of-a-kind equine program, including the Journey to Self experience, which is personal and transformative. Also, its sustainable living program offers an introduction to beekeeping that teaches visitors to be mindful and thankful. Book it with: Liz King, Travel Edge, Toronto, a Virtuoso Agency liz.king@traveledge.com

+1-416-789-3271 +1-604-736-7447 67

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Half Moon, Jamaica, Montego Bay, Jamaica Once a sugar plantation, Half Moon is now a luxury haven spread across 160 hectares. Enjoy the tropical floral gardens, three kilometres of dazzling beachfront, 18-hole golf course, tennis courts and equestrian centre. Highlight: Treat yourself to the Fern Tree Signature Massage, a healing massage that incorporates invigorating local ingredients like cerasee, allspice, ginger and orange. What better way to end your treatment than with a rum body splash? Book it with: Alicia Khan Thompson, TTI Travel, Toronto, a Virtuoso Agency athompson@tticanada.com +1-416-369-1750

Tabacon Thermal Resort & Spa, La Fortuna, Costa Rica Tabacon Thermal Resort & Spa promises magnificent sunrises and a unique wellness experience in the heart of the Costa Rican rainforest. Eco spa treatments are performed in private bungalows, and the adult-only area is surrounded by beautiful gardens where guests can lounge on a daybed and listen to the wildlife.

Highlight: The resort’s best feature is its mineral springs set in a rainforest reserve. Picture yourself relaxing in one of the many pools with cascading waterfalls massaging every part of your body at just the right pressure. Book it with: Jane Hart, Vision Travel, Toronto, a Virtuoso Agency jane.hart@visiontravel.ca +1-416-496-2555 69

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Lake Austin Spa Resort, Austin, Texas, USA As soon as you arrive at this quaint oasis, you feel an instant sense of peace. The idyllic lakeside resort offers a vast array of activities to fill your day, or you can simply melt away in its gorgeous and pristine spa. The beautifully decorated rooms are cozy and feel like home. Highlight: Don’t miss the heated lap pool in the Pool Barn. This is a hidden gem within the resort and truly one of the nicest swimming pools I have ever been to, and that’s coming from a retired competitive swimmer. Book it with: Carly Renshaw, Renshaw Travel, Vancouver, a Virtuoso Agency carly@renshawtravel.com +1-604-733-1010

Amankora, Thimphu, Bhutan Amankora is a magical place in the kingdom of happiness. One of five impressive lodges the resort offers, Amankora Paro is just outside the main village and hidden among the pine trees and fluttering prayer flags, with the mountains of Bhutan in full view. Highlight: Whether you are hiking to the iconic Tiger’s Nest Monastery or meditating with the monks, a nice follow-up after an incredible experience is the amazing spa that looks out onto the pine forest. Try the Grounding Body Polish or Wrap Ritual. Book it with: Catherine Davis, Zebrano

Travel, Toronto, a Virtuoso Agency cdavis@zebranotravel.com +1-416-566-5264

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BodyHoliday, Castries, Saint Lucia Positioned on a remote Caribbean beach, BodyHoliday eliminates the distractions of a restless lifestyle and invigorates the body and spirit. With a variety of exciting activities and rejuvenating services, as well as an attentive staff, guests can be as active as they like or enjoy the quiet serenity of the beautiful Saint Lucia landscape. Highlight: The wonderful wellness centre focuses on restorative beauty and stress management and provides guests with holistic and inclusive treatments. This large-scale facility includes a dance studio and Ayurvedic Temple. Book it with: Eve Wasilewski, CWT Vacations, Toronto, a Virtuoso Agency +1-833-CWT-TRIP (298-8747)

The Fairmont Banff Springs, Banff, Alberta, Canada The Fairmont Banff Springs, perched in the heart of Banff National Park, is a stunning chateau-like building that is listed on the Canadian Register of Historic Places. Its expansive grounds are beautiful, no matter the season you decide to visit. Highlight: A walk or hike on many of the marked trails around the property affords guests the opportunity to get up close with nature. Upon your return, the outdoor thermal hot pool is a must and offers a more relaxing way to soak up the spectacular views. Book it with: Samuel Spencer, Ocean & River Cruises, Calgary, a Virtuoso Agency Samuel@OceanRiverCruises.com +1-800-516-9030

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Beyond Luxury The Oak Bay Beach Hotel, Victoria, British Columbia

estled on the shores of the Pacific Ocean near Victoria, British Columbia, the Oak Bay Beach Hotel is a luxury boutique property like no other. The facility overlooks the Juan de Fuca Strait and offers breathtaking ocean views of snow-capped Mount Baker in the distance. Having stood its place on a magnificent stretch of Pacific Ocean coastline for more than 80 years, the Oak Bay Beach Hotel was completely rebuilt over six years and reopened in late 2012 as the most luxurious choice among Canada’s finest boutique hotels. The property contains 100 hotel rooms and suites, featuring a full-service spa with seaside heated mineral baths.

BEST FOR

Those seeking overall recalibration.

HIGHLIGHT

The Ocean Elements Body Ritual is a must treatment. The power of the ocean is experienced in this profound treatment that utilizes the remarkable healing benefits of Pacific Seaweed, Marine Clay and Glacial Water. These ingredients, through a unique layering and massage technique, help to reduce muscle tension, improve circulation, target inflammation and will leave you feeling deeply relaxed and rejuvenated. oakbaybeachhotel.com

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Rediscovering the River Strøm Nordic Spa, Old Québec, Québec

trøm was founded on a simple idea: combining Nordic spa and urbanity, for a relaxing experience. The Strøm Nordic Spa in Old Québec, the latest addition to the Strøm Nordic Spa Collection (Nuns’ Island, Sherbrooke, Mont-Saint-Hilaire), offers 32,000 square feet of indoor space divided into four pavilions, eight pools, some of which include waterfalls, indoor and outdoor hot tubs, two dry saunas and two steam baths, the largest flotation bath in North America, an infinity pool, a “lazy river” hot water pool, 17 massage rooms and a gastronomic bistro with 70 seats, and an additional 30 seats on the terrace during summer months. This new spa in Old Québec was built in the midst of a location rich in history, becoming without a doubt the most magnificent spa in the province. The vastness and power, but also the tranquility of the Saint Lawrence River gives the site the feeling of a little escape. The thoughtful architectural views harmonize with the richness of the site. North America’s largest flotation bath is surrounded by candles, bringing the floating experience closer to meditation. An infinity pool for contemplation, a steam bath made of marble, feeling of intimacy in the atmosphere: the experience is unique and reaches its peak with the indoor/outdoor bath, a journey between darkness and light.

BEST FOR

Those seeking a deeper connection with nature.

HIGHLIGHTS

The Floating Pool. Evocative of the Dead Sea, the Epsom salt pool is made of a dense solution that minimizes the forces of gravity and allows the body to float effortlessly. With a salinity that varies from 25 per cent to 27 per cent, it provides an experience worth it of a dip in the waters of the Dead Sea. With the relaxation of the body and absence of pressure points, the floating pool offers an optimal balance of the mind, body and soul. stromspa.com/vieux-quebec

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The Essential Wellness Guide in Nicaragua The best places to rejuvenate and regenerate

Jicaro Island Lodge

nspoiled natural beauty, crystal clear beaches and an exceptionally welcoming culture has propelled Nicaragua from anonymity to adoration. A true destination for adventure travellers, its nature and tranquil surroundings are also ideal for wellnessseeking travellers. If you’re in some serious need of R&R, behold, your essential guide to spots in Nicaragua to recharge, rejuvenate and recalibrate.

Corn Islands

If you’re looking to get away and unplug, then a trip to the remote Corn Islands is a must. Once a refuge for pirates, Big Corn Island and Little Corn Island have been secret hideaways for many Nicaraguans and visitors from around the world. With white-sand beaches, swaying coconut palms and clear turquoise waters, the Corn Islands have a knack for turning first-time visitors into devoted fans. Little Corn Island, in particular, seems like it jumped right off a postcard; a quiet and verdant jewel surrounded by calm cerulean waters. The coastline lends itself to world-class scuba, sailing and fishing, while the charming amenities of The Village offer an escape from the mainland bustle. Unassuming Little Corn may be out of sight, but this idyllic escape deserves to be top of mind.

Malibu Popoyo Surf Resort

Malibu Popoyo, a unique blend of luxury surf retreat and adventure sanctuary, is an all-inclusive, eco-friendly boutique surf resort and retreat

centre that caters to surfers, yogis and adventurous souls. Located beachfront in the heart of Popoyo, Malibu Popoyo is grounded in Nicaraguan culture, a neighbour to more than 10 world-class surf breaks and run by an exceptional staff committed to delivering an exceptional experience that inspires adventure and transformation. Malibu Popoyo isn’t just a hotel, just a surf haven, just a yoga studio, just a restaurant. It’s all this and more, accentuated with calculated convenience and invigorating experiences finely curated to individual passions and wanderlust desires—stimulating and satiating for all walks of life. Plus, the high-end accommodations and eco-friendly amenities will indulge the senses without breaking the bank. malibupopoyo.com

Coco Loco Resort

El Coco Loco Resort, a community-focused eco-resort in northern Nicaragua, offers guests a very special travel experience. El Coco Loco Resort since 2009, works to improve the quality of life of the local community through education programs, development and volunteer efforts. Over the past 10 years, Coco’s Waves of Hope Foundation has invested more than $400,000 into projects and initiatives focused on education, infrastructure, healthcare and the environment. After giving back, guests can nurture themselves with yoga retreats, private classes and a teacher-in-training program. Guests can also take up surfing at all levels. Accommodations include eight palm-thatch cabanas on the main property and three boutique rooms in the new beach house. cocolocoecoresort.com

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Yemaya Island Hideaway

Named after the goddess of the sea, Yemaya Little Corn caters to wellness enthusiasts who seek out tranquility and natural surroundings. A unique island hideaway hotel, offering 16 oceanfront rooms with stunning sea views, exquisite white sand beaches, surrounded by lush jungle, swaying coco palms, a pristine reef teeming with sea life and, of course, a daily deluge of lovely local smiles. The organic garden that supplies the resort’s kitchen provides pampering for the healthconscious. Do not expect marble foyers or uniformed bellhops. For guests looking to kick back into a barefoot beach vacation, spending lazy days in a relaxed and informal way, Yemaya boutique hotel is the perfect place. yemayalittlecorn.com

Jicaro Island Lodge

Relaxation and wellness are easily within reach within Nicaragua’s west coast “Tourism Triangle” at Jicaro Island Ecolodge. Located on a private island in the middle of Lake Nicaragua, and just a short boat ride from the colonial town of Granada, Jicaro is a serene alternative to the bustle of the nearby historic city. The ecolodge comprises nine private two-storey casitas, many with a glorious view of the lake and nearby Mombacho Volcano. Jicaro offers year-round yoga and wellness retreats that combine exceptional yoga experiences with opportunities to learn about the destination and its culture. The wellness centre at Jicaro, overlooking the lake, features two open-air rooms and private showers for spa treatments. A highlight at Jicaro is the floating yoga deck, reached by boat, a serene location where guests can enjoy sunrise yoga, afternoon meditation and sunset dinners. jicarolodge.com

Aqua Oceanfront Resort

Nestled among the treetops and overlooking a private white-sand beach along Nicaragua’s Pacific Coast is Aqua Oceanfront Resort. The Rainforest Allianceverified resort maximizes its natural surroundings with tree-top villas, where guests encounter a variety of flora and fauna, monkeys, birds and butterflies. Additionally, Aqua is on a turtle-nesting beach that affords frequent sightings. Aqua also offers daily yoga on the elevated, open-air platform overlooking the stunning private beach and The Aqua Spa, with treatments that draw inspiration from Nicaragua’s natural resources, including local fruit and cacao. aquanicaragua.com

OUR TIPS AND TRICKS TO

Travel Intel

May / June 2020

ISSUE No 56

NAVIGATING THE WORLD

by Liz Fleming

Lolling In Luxury

The UMO Skin Clinic in London is ready to provide a facial for US$500. Why so pricey? What they’ll be smoothing on your skin is a combination of Gamma PGA and 24-carat gold, a magical mixture that promises to restore tone, texture and elasticity. Still have a few dollars burning a hole in your pocket? The Radiance Spa in San Francisco will take your skin to a whole new level with a Grande Luxe Facial, which includes everything from micro currents and LED light therapy, to a pure caviar-and-Omega-6 mask, and also protein drops for your hands. Said to be more effective than a facelift, this little indulgence will only cost you US$750. And if nothing but the absolute best will do, blow the budget and spend a glorious afternoon, and a mind-blowing US$5,000, on a dip in the Hotel Victor Miami Beach Evian Bath. Filled with 1,000 litres of Evian water, brought from the famous springs in France, the gleaming pool will be accented by a few Gerbera daisies that will float around you as you soak, sip Champagne and nosh on a variety of gourmet goodies.

O’Brien’s Tower watches over Ireland’s Cliffs of Moher.

Signing Off and Chilling Out S

tudies show that while technology enriches our lives in a thousand different ways, it’s also a significant source of stress. If you’re longing to unplug for a tech-free holiday but can’t imagine where that could happen, consider these top locations for a digital detox.

CANADA

SOUTH AFRICA

AUSTRALIA

IRELAND

Right here at home is one of the best places in the world to get away from it all. Because most of our inhabited areas lie within 160 kilometres of the U.S. border, that leaves a whole lot of space for escape. Grab a sleeping bag and tent and head north. There’s nothing like losing yourself in the forest to clear your head and bring you back to reality.

The frustration of low 4G speeds and the proximity to gorgeous national parks makes South Africa an outstanding location for unplugging. If you’re susceptible to peer pressure, you’ll be delighted to discover that more than 40 per cent of South Africans have no Internet access at all, so you’ll never have that ‘naked-without-my-phone’ sensation and will instead just blend right in.

Australia has an incredible number of national parks, teeming with some of the most unusual wildlife you’ll ever see. In fact, you won’t see creatures like wallabies, kangaroos or platypuses anywhere else on the globe. That should be more than enough to keep your mind off your cell phone— except you’ll be reaching for it to snap some photos.

This little green island is all about hiking. If you go far enough, you’ll quickly find yourself out of signal range. Lonely? Walk into a picturesque village, find the local pub and make new friends face-to-face. It’s an old concept, this idea of actual conversation, but it works.

O’Brien’s Tower photo by Henrique Craveiro

Still reeling from the price of your last massage? Whatever you paid was probably a bargain compared to some of the most expensive spa treatments we’ve discovered.

TRAVEL INTEL

Bugs on a Plane W

here do you imagine the most germs are lurking on a plane? The armrests and tray tables are obvious culprits. But believe it or not, it’s the seat pocket that takes the prize for germiest spot. The seat pocket is almost always touched (as are the inflight magazines, another great transfer spot for germs) and other travellers may stash their used tissues, wrappers and even cups in there. It goes without saying that the bathrooms on airplanes are less than sanitary (try to use them immediately after takeoff, when they’ll

BOLD

have just been cleaned) but what about the blankets and pillows? A flight attendant friend of mine (who knows the sketchy cleaning processes for those amenities) recommends that you always bring your own. The germ source most of us forget? The touch screen entertainment system. How many grubby paws have touched that? Before you have a germophobic meltdown, remember that a simple swipe with a wet wipe cloth will take care of most of the surface germs. Then, douse your hands with a hand sanitizer.

QUERY

Suitcase photo by Emanuela Picone

I’ll be visiting several cities over the course of a week-long trip, switching hotels every night. How do I pack, unpack and repack each time without losing my mind… or my toothbrush? The answer to corralling your stuff is clever organization. For a week-long trip, you’ll need three or four packing cubes and a hanging bathroom kit with several pouches. The first cube is for underwear, socks, bathing suits and workout gear; the second is for T-shirts and other tops; the third is for jeans and pants; and the fourth is for shoes. Toothbrush, razors and other toiletries go into the hanging bathroom kit. Note: Hang it in an obvious spot rather than behind the door, so it won’t be forgotten. At each hotel, put your few specialty shirts and dresses in the closet, take the packing cubes out of your bag and put them on the extra bed or desk, creating a travelling dresser where you’ll know where everything is.

WHAT NOT TO DO WHILE CRUISING E

veryone has their “do” list for cruising but there are times to consider the “don’ts.” Here are our top-10 things to avoid while planning a cruise or taking one.

Don’t book your flight to the cruise port for the day of departure. A flight delay could cause you to miss your cruise. Instead, arrive the day before and spend the night at a hotel near the port.

If you get queasy on rides at the amusement park, don’t skip the seasickness meds for your cruise. Ask your pharmacist to recommend the best product for you. You may even need to start taking it in advance of sailing.

Don’t throw anything overboard. Not. Ever. Because of the drafts created as the ship moves through the water, your cigarette butt could be sucked into someone’s room below and cause a fire.

Don’t sit on the railing, no matter how Insta-worthy the shot. Hitting the water from a height—and that’s if you’re lucky enough to miss smacking yourself on the side of the ship on the way down—feels like hitting concrete. Plus, the ship will keep sailing away, because the captain won’t know you’ve gone overboard.

Don’t limit yourself to ship-sponsored shore excursions. It’s easy to plan your own adventures either online or when you go ashore with the many taxi and tour companies lined up on the piers. If you do book an independent excursion, be sure to set a return to the pier at least 90 minutes before sail-away, to allow for unexpected traffic and other possible delays. Ships always leave on time, with or without you.

Don’t skip the travel insurance. Stuff happens and it can be pricey if it happens overseas.

Don’t let unanticipated cell roaming charges add up. Buy an international SIM card or use the ship’s WiFi, along with the free WiFi you’ll find in cafés on shore.

Don’t get up early to run to the ship’s pool to “claim” chairs. You’ll find your towel simply gets removed.

Don’t take the onboard elevators. Walk off some of that fab food you’re eating by walking up and down the stairs.

Don’t sleep in! You paid a lot for this cruise so get up and explore. You can loll around for free at home.

WORTH TRAVELLING FOR

A Star Is Reborn The two years it took to renovate Raffles Hotel Singapore must have left fans of the legendary property feeling sad and lonely. But since August 2019, they’ve been able to experience a reimagined version of what’s probably the most famous hotel in Asia. New York-based design studio Champalimaud Design, working with architectural firm Aedas, has brought the National Monument into the 21st century, replacing even the marble floors in the lobby. The new spa opened in January. In-suite check-in is now the norm, but that doesn’t mean anyone should be spending less time in the lobby, which is spectacularly light and airy. While an ethereally modern chandelier dominates the space above, the antique 80

grandfather clock that’s been in the lobby since 1887—back when the place was a 10-room bungalow, not a 110-suite luxury institution—remains in exactly the same place it’s always been. Though the rooms are sleeker, with all the modern tech conveniences one expects these days, the hotel’s history remains at the forefront. In its new location in the hotel, The Writers Bar still celebrates the famous authors (Rudyard Kipling, Joseph Conrad, Somerset Maugham, Noel Coward) who have bunked here. If you want a Singapore Sling, though, you’ll have to go to the Long Bar, where the drink was invented in 1915. Rooms from $790/night, including one-way limousine transfer. rafflessingapore.com

Phot by Vonecia Carswell

Raffles Hotel Singapore

“The Kicker”

“The Flamingo”

“The Irish Stepdance”

UP TO

100% leak free, no matter how you sleep

*vs. Always Maxi Regular with wings

AKGUA LE R

10hrs up to

X LARG

D™

ULTIMA T

Always Overnight pads have a 2X larger back* for up to 10 hours of protection while you sleep.

A ER B

THE 2020 FORD F-150

CONTROL YOUR TOW

There are moments when you need to reconnect with Mother Nature, and there are times when you need to stay connected. With the F-150, you won’t have to decide. The truck has the toughness and capability to get you where you need to go, and the latest technology to help you stay in touch.

BACK IT UP RIGHT THE FIRST TIME WITH THE AVAILABLE PRO TRAILER BACKUP ASSIST TM*.

WITH BEST-IN-CLASS† PAYLOAD OF 3,270 LBS AND MAXIMUM TOWING OF 13,200 LBS, YOU CAN BRING EVERYTHING YOU NEED.

AVAILABLE WI-FI HOTSPOT ‡ CAPABILITY FOR BOTH WORK AND PLAY.

EXPLORE THE 2020 FORD F-150. FORD.CA/UNDISPUTED Vehicle may be shown with optional features. *Some driver input required. Driver-assist features are supplemental and do not replace the driver’s attention, judgment and need to control the vehicle. †When properly congured. Maximum towing of 13,200 lbs with available 3.5L V6 EcoBoost engine conguration. Maximum payload of 3,270 lbs on F-150 XL Regular Cab, 8' box, 5.0L, 4x2, Heavy Duty Payload Package and Heavy Duty Wheel. Class is Full-Size Pickups under 8,500 lbs. GVWR based on Ford segmentation. ‡Additional data plan required. See dealer for details. Hotspot can connect up to 10 Wi-Fi-capable devices, using data from the additional data plan. Once a device connects, it can automatically reconnect and use data from this additional data plan unless hotspot is removed from returning device settings or hotspot password is changed. Performance varies based on number of devices connected and other factors. ©2020 Ford Motor Company of Canada, Limited. All rights reserved.