THE URE T N E ADV SUE IS
PLUS: THAILAND | BALI | YASUNI NATIONAL PARK | VENETO | BAJA CALIFORNIA
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Subject to availability. Some restrictions may apply. For complete terms, visit rbc.com/travelredemption. † To receive the 15,000 bonus RBC Rewards points, your application form must be approved by us. Upon enrolment, 15,000 bonus RBC Rewards points will appear on your first monthly statement. This offer may not be combined or used in conjunction with any other offer. Royal Bank of Canada reserves the right to withdraw this offer at any time, even after acceptance by you. ®/™ Trademark(s) of Royal Bank of Canada. RBC and Royal Bank are registered trademarks of Royal Bank of Canada. ‡ All other trademarks are the property of their respective owner(s). BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 3
Iceland’s Northern Lights Tour
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CONTENTS
The Adventure Issue #3 2016
Anantara Si Kao Resort & Spa and Andaman Sea panorama, Thailand
The Mandapa’s spa entrance, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve in Bali.
Features 45 El Salvador’s Big Break With surf towns, volcano hikes, mountain lakes and dunebuggying through colonial towns, El Salvador is Central America’s new frontier for adventure. by Andrew Brudz photographs by Mark Tym
54 Savouring Veneto Anita Draycott, a self-appointed princess of pasta and Prosecco dons her apron for a cooking holiday in Northern Italy.
60 Emerald City Meagan Drillinger, Unearths a Jewel-Coloured Paradise in the Andaman Sea.
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DEPARTMENTS
World
Your
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ON OUR RADAR + TRENDS
Meet our globetrotter Sherwin Banda and his quest to save the rhinos; then be inspired by the Canadian Wilderness: our picks of the best beauty and fashion essentials for the great outdoors.
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CONTENTS
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Here&Now DISCOVERIES + DESIGN
Bali, an oasis, an island among the islands. Plus: The Sea of Cortez, an inspiration for divers, marine naturalists and Jacques Cousteau, who famously called it “the world’s aquarium.”
The Adventure Issue #3 2016
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Travel Navigator Refine your travel experience – business or pleasure – with the help of our insider in-flight info and stress-reducing travel tips.
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Guide The
Insider Las Vegas: how to take care of business like a local in America’s capital of hedonism.
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Worth Travelling For The Amanjiwo Resort, one of Indonesia’s most enriching and elegant stays.
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Publisher’s Note INSPIRATION FOR TRAVELLERS
Barbados Sunshine State of Mind
I must confess that Las Vegas has never been high on my travel to-do list. My preconceived notions of all-you-can-eat buffets, rowdy TRIPS OF A partiers, gaudy décor and tacky tourists deterred me from LIFETIME ever entering America’s hedonism capital. But after arriving for a conference here, I found myself in an unusual predicament for an editor: I had some free time to PLUS / Nepal, Tel Aviv, Wyoming, Belize explore a new city on my own! I ease into the experience slowly, exploring the city the old fashion way, map in hand. I take a long, meandering walk through the fabled “strip,” a 3 ½-mile-long UP NEXT: stretch of Las Vegas Boulevard packed with 70,000 glitzy hotel rooms, dozens of casinos, and millions of flashing light bulbs winking at me. BARBADOS And there’s the downtown area, which never gets much attention. But it’s Sunshine State of Mind brimming with museums, curious galleries, and niche boutiques. It is certainly a lot to digest. And I mean that literally, as I am surprised by the No one is more appreciative of the sunny Caribbean range of culinary experiences available at some top-notch restaurants. than a Canadian struggling Living it all in the flesh offered me a fresh sensory discovery, liberating my through winter and no where mind from the prejudices I held towards the city. is more suited for a brief It reminded me that travel adventures can happen anywhere— anytime you reprieve than beautiful Barbados. Our man on the take a risk, every time you step outside your comfort zone. ground, Doug Wallace, Travel opens our minds. It humanizes the strange, the foreign, the unfamiliar. visited the island and was It reminds us that there is no normal. immediately enthralled with
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We hope you’ll discover your next adventure in these pages.
the loveliness of Barbados’ pink sand and luxurious experiences. He found a place of absolute relaxation - due in no small part to the charming and infectiously easy-going nature of its people.
Marlon J. Moreno Publisher
PROUD PARTNERS OF BOLD MAGAZINE 10 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
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2016-08-31 5:01 PM
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When you carry the most passengers of any other airline in Europe, you can’t help but be in tune to the many facets of customer experience in today’s crowded and competitive first-class market. Lufthansa is constantly upgrading and innovating, its researchers extensively canvassing passengers to pinpoint their changing tastes. “We are listening to our customers, listening for what they want,” says Hans DeHaan, Lufthansa’s Director for Canada. Overseeing 130 long-haul aircraft that fly more than 15 million passengers a year to 1,300 worldwide destinations while keeping a close ear to passenger feedback has allowed Lufthansa to establish new initiatives that translate passengers into loyal guests.
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The Lufthansa on-board experience is uncluttered, thoughtful, efficient and comfortable. The humidifiers in Lufthansa A-380 Airbuses are good news not only for the passenger’s comfort, but also for their sense of taste, which diminishes considerably at 30,000 feet. Your perception of savoury and sweet is also affected at this altitude – all due in part to the humidity and low air pressure. This is one of the reasons why some airline chefs choose umamicentred flavours for in-flight menus – with things like tomatoes, mushrooms, spinach and shellfish – as the on-board climate may actually enhance this particular taste category. Humidity aside, Lufthansa is also on the forefront of everything from seat engineering to the little bonuses that brighten up your flight, forever evolving to stay in step with the not just today’s trends, but the future of travel.
CONTRIBUTORS
Inspired by our featured destinations, we asked our contributors about their unique experiences. Here is what they had to say...
Andrew Brudz Writer
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El Salvador’s Big Break Andrew Brudz is a Toronto-based writer who has written about his experiences in Mexico City, Detroit, Puerto Rico, and Curaçao. In El Salvador, he discovered an entrancing land of waterfalls, lagoons, and volcanoes that, contrary to its dangerous reputation, afforded him some serene moments, like an unforgettable swim in a mountain lake with a former Olympic synchronized swimmer.
Anita Draycott Writer
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Savouring Veneto Anita Draycott has been a Toronto-based journalist, editor and photographer for more than 25 years. A self-confessed golf addict, she has chased dimpled white balls over six continents. For Anita, the most underrated Italian destination is Puglia and the experience she would fly back for are the amazing Bellinis at the Hotel Cipriani in Venice.
Mark Tym Photographer
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El Salvador’s Big Break Mark Tym is a Toronto based photographer with a Specialist Degree in Art History. When he’s not shooting, he’s most likely painting or reading. For Mark, El Salvador’s most pleasant surprise was the jungle, its natural beauty and the coffee! He has traveled extensively throughout Europe and visited several Central American countries also. His next destination is Asia. INSPIRATION FOR TRAVELLERS
MARLON MORENO Publisher + Editorial Director MAGDA DE LA TORRE America’s Editor CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Liam Wilkinson • David Locke • Muriel Paras • Michael Smith • Andrew Brudz Doug Wallace • Chloe Collitz • Waheeda Harris • Zach Vanasse • Meagan Drillinger ART DIRECTION AND DESIGN Laura García CARLOS BOLIVAR Photography • RAHUL NAIR Web Developer PUBLIC RELATIONS AGENCY Jesson + Company ⁄ jessonco.com / info@jessonco.com 77 Bloor St. West, Suite 1200 Toronto, ON. M5S 1M2 ADVERTISING For Advertising, Promotion, Reprints and Sponsorships inquiries marketing@boldmagazine.ca / phone: 1.416.323.7828 extension 25
The Fountains of Bellagio at Bellagio Las Vegas Resort & Casino.
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CORRESPONDENCE The Hudson Bay Centre / 20 Bloor St. East P.O. Box 75075 / Toronto, ON. M4W 3T3 BOLD® is published bimonthly by Pulso Media Group Inc. Opinions express in BOLD are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the publisher or advertisers. BOLD does not assume liability for content. www.boldmagazine.ca MEDIA SPONSORSHIPS marketing@boldmagazine.ca
A World of Possibilities
PROMOTION
Take Me There
For Those Who Prefer to Explore El Salvador is a great place for travellers. There are the clear waters of La Libertad. Or you can hike up to the top of the San Salavador volcano. But El Salvador is much more than beaches and volcanoes. It’s said that from the capital, you can get anywhere in 40 minutes. Visit Mayan ruins at Tazumal. Take a stroll through El Zonte, a small surfing town. Or bathe beneath waterfalls at Balneario los Chorros. This is the El Salvador experience that true travellers crave. You see, there are two ways to explore a new destination. First you have tourists; those who are happy to stick to the travel guide itinerary and to take photos of famous and familiar landmarks. But then you have travellers. These are the people who like to wander off the beaten path. They might go down an alleyway just to see where they end up. Travellers eat at the local independent café. They find a city’s third-most popular art gallery and buy a unique piece to display in their home. And sometimes they sit peacefully on a park bench just to watch the locals go about their day.
According to Andrea Metrick, Senior Director of Retail Cards at RBC, “We have another word for these travellers. We call them Avioners®.” “In the same way that these travellers aren’t limited by the tourist guide, Avioners don’t accept limitations on their travel plans and they would never carry a travel rewards card that would place such limitations,” he says. In fact, with an RBC Avion® credit card you just don’t have to face those kinds of restrictions. You can book any flight, with any airline, at any time. And with Payback with Points you can redeem your RBC Rewards® points toward anything and everything you purchase with your Avion card. Simply use your points to make a payment directly toward your credit card balance. But more importantly, you can redeem points on everything you purchase for your trip. So not only can you do things like book flights, hotel rooms, and car rentals; you can also swim with sea lions and or try delicious Salvadorian pupusas – all ON POINTS! Avioners can explore and experience any new destination. So, ask yourself: are you a tourist or are you an Avioner?
Explore the world, ON POINTS Easy to understand travel rewards. No seat restrictions. If there’s a seat available, you fly – even during peak seasons. Plus you can also use your points to cover airline fees and taxes.
Earning points is simple and easy. You can feel confident knowing that you’ll earn RBC Rewards® points every time you make a purchase on your credit card.
Use your points toward all your purchases. With Payback with Points, you can redeem your RBC Rewards points toward anything and everything you purchase using your Avion® credit card. Simply use your points to make a payment directly toward your credit card balance.
AVIONERS CAN DO THAT ®
To learn more visit rbc.com/avion All rewards are subject to availability and are subject to change without notice. Some restrictions may apply. For complete terms, visit rbcrewards.com/terms. ®/™ Trademark(s) of Royal Bank of Canada. RBC and Royal Bank are registered trademarks of Royal Bank of Canada. ‡ All other trademarks are the property of their respective owner(s).
thisisegypt.com
ON OUR RADAR + TRENDS
Globetrotter
We caught up recently with the busy globetrotter in Las Vegas, at the Virtuoso Luxury Travel show to discuss his passion, Africa and the steps he is taking to protect it.
Clockwise from left: The view from Victoria Tower of Parliament, London, England; Rhinos at Nambiti reserve; Elephants in Circles in Botswana; Aerial View of the Ashford Castle in Ireland.
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GLOBETROTTER
YOU COME INTO THIS WORLD WITH NOTHING AND YOU WILL LEAVE THIS WORLD WITH NOTHING. WHAT REALLY MATTERS IS WHAT WE DO IN BETWEEN.
Sherwin (left) with his husband and son
HOTELIER, AFRICA AMBASSADOR AND ACTIVIST, SHERWIN BANDA HAS SPENT MORE THAN 17 YEARS IN THE INTERNATIONAL HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY AND IS RENOWNED FOR HIS HIGHLY PERSONALIZED APPROACH TO CUSTOMER CARE, EMPOWERING MANAGERIAL STYLE AND PASSIONATE DEVOTION TO ALL THINGS AFRICA.
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Tell us where have you just come back from? I have been fortunate to visit Ashford Castle in Ireland. Where in the world have you felt happiest? It would have to be South Africa. It’s a magical and sacred place – a place where I am at peace. Name a place that most lived up to the hype? I moved to London in my early 20s and since then I have returned every year. There is an energy in London that grabs hold of you and never lets go of you, until you escape its grip upon departure. Which is your favourite place/destination and why? Botswana! The vast expanse of the Kalahari Desert is punctured at its heart by a lush tropical oasis. Its river arches swell with the rains attracting wildlife in abundance. Yet by the end of the dry season all the water is simply gone. The delicate balance between predator and prey will have you sitting on the edge of your seat. This amazing destination has to be on everyone’s bucket list. What’s your guilty pleasure while travelling? There is nothing I love more in this world than being a dad. It is the greatest blessing in the world. Which is your road most travelled? No matter where I find myself in the world, I have a deep desire to stay connected to Africa and return as often as I can. A wise man once said – you come into this world with nothing and you will leave this world with nothing. What really matters is what we do in between. Favourite travel companion(s)? I have to admit being with husband and son is truly special. They make me belly laugh and fill the empty spaces which one sometimes feels when traveling alone. Who is the most interesting person you’ve met on your travels? Traveling through South Africa, I met Archbishop Desmond Tutu. This amazing man changed the hearts of a broken nation during one of the most tumultuous times in our history. His leadership of the Truth & Reconciliation Commission led a nation on the brink of civil war to compromise and forgiveness. What people still do not know about Africa? Africa is so much more than just safari. People have always been fascinated by Africa, the world’s most exotic continent, and for good reason; in a single trip, guests can perch at the top of Victoria Falls, face their fears on an underwater cage-dive with Great White sharks, relax by the beach in a five-star resort, and witness the Big Five up close and personal. What inspires you to keep exploring this planet? Travel breaks down barriers and creates a greater understanding of our global community. Why is 1973 a very important year? It is the year I was born and share a special birthday with my twin sister. It is also a time when there were 95% more rhinos roaming the African continent. Today, 95% of rhinos have been wiped off the face of the earth in the past four decades. Due to ignorance these majestic creatures have been hunted for their horns. At African Travel we have been sharing with travelers how to they can support wildlife conservation with regards to their social media posts. While on safari, tourists post photos of animals to social media sites, not realizing that embedded within the post or the photo is a geotag containing the GPS location of the photo or poster. This allows poachers to track animals of value. Thus we encourage to keep your posts private by removing any geotags and in so doing protect Africa’s wildlife for generations to come. “I lost my heart in …” Cape Town, South Africa. It is the city where I fell in love and returned to marry the love of my life. It is also the city where we met our son and adopted him into our family.
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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS
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Inspired by the recent Olympics in Brazil, it’s only sporting that we make the days of summer last with these style cues from beachside Rio de Janeiro.
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Here, what to pack. 8 2
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1. FEEL LIKE A CELEBRITY: Cutler and Gross Brown sunglasses, $715; cutlerandgross.com 2. THROW SOME SHADE: Liquid Sunshine Mineral Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF30, Arbonne; $36; arbonne.ca 3. TIME OUT: Papagaye watch, Swatch; $70; swatch.com 4.STEP UP: Iconic Brasil Flip Flops, Havaianas, $35; havaianas-store.com 5. COMING UP ROSES: Rose de Mai Face Oil Aromacologie, Chantecaille, $238; chantecaille.com 6. BE A LEGEND: ACQUA DI GIÒ Profumo, $180 -180ml; thebay.com 7. BATHING BEAUTY: VITAMIN A Bikini Top in floral print, $110, and matching bottom, $120; 8. RIP CURL Men’s Swim Shorts in blue with floral print, $70, all Bikini Village, bikinivillage.com. 18 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
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Your
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Lake Louise, Canadian Rockies, Alberta.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS
The Canadian Wilderness
The Ultimate Backcountry Camping Gear
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For the 5 day trek into the majestic mountains of Banff National Park, hiking through Algonquin Park or venturing into the Arctic tundra of Ivvavik National Park, here is the gear you need for your next adventure. And, if you are like me, you might also consider checking out the ultimate glamping experience at the Clayoquot Wilderness Resort (wildretreat.com) Marlon Moreno
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Lodge 4+4 Tent, Guava Colour by Mec, $689; mec.ca
Aquila Wide Sleeping Bag -7C - Unisex $315; mec.ca
Bamboo Utensil Set by Patagonia $17; patagonia.com
The Scarpa Proton Shoes by Scarpa $180; scarpa.com
Miniworks EX Microfilter by MSR $90; mec.ca
photograph by MICHAEL MURAZ
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Trek Combo Titanium Cookset by Snow Peak $105; snowpeak.com
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Men’s Nano Puff® Hoody - French Red by Patagonia, $299; patagonia.com
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Buddhist blessings, jungle safaris, golden temples, elephant encounters, delicious fresh meals, paradise-like beaches, our tour of Thailand had too many highlights to list. Exodus, thank you as always for what was truly a trip of a lifetime. Tom & Patricia Dumont Thailand • March 2016
Because 97% of our customers would recommend us to a friend CONTACT US AT WWW.EXODUSTRAVELS.COM OR 1 800 267 3347
TO U R S TO 1 0 0 + CO U N T R I E S WO R L DW I D E C U LT U R A L
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DISCOVERIES + DESIGN
Bali H igh No man is an island, but on the island of Bali, one woman finds oneness, with herself by MURIEL PARAS
Here&Now DISCOVERIES + DESIGN
Indonesia. A complex string of islands. An intricate tapestry of religion and language. A hotbed of political undertakings. But, within it all, there is peace. An oasis. An island, among the islands.
Previous Page: Rice Paddy at Mandapa, a Ritz-Cartlon Reserve in Bali; On this page: Yoga at Mandapa; Opposite page top: A woman praying; Monkeys at the Monkey Forest in Ubud; Pool at the Four Seasons Resort Bali At Sayan.
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It,
too, has its complexities, its intricacies, its political machinations. Long a haven of backpackers, surfers and hedonist seekers, it is also a paradise of ex-pats, those seeking solace and respite from the hustle and bustle of the bigger world. The lone Hindu island in the centre of a nation mainly of followers of Islam, Bali’s sense of individuality comes naturally. And it is that singular sense I felt. Life had taken a turn for me, a curve thrown that, well, I had thrown myself. Yet, it was not Eat, Pray, Love that I was seeking. But me, myself and I. Beaches are the draw, rowdy nightlife, Aussie partiers and European expats the mainstay. The coastal towns are electric, filling the body with energy; flipflops and board shorts the casual chic attire. Girls wear their hair and their skirts long and loose, but there’s a contingent, a Euro/Anglo type, which ups the style ante. Italian fashion designers, Los Angeles décor mavens, Hong Kong financiers and Spanish artists mix with Balinese chefs, Canadian jewellery designers, Hindu priests and, well, me. It is away from the beaches and into the inland jungles of Ubud where I begin to get the vibe I seek. Intense green strikes in contrast to deep sky blue. Rainforest, rich with plant life so profuse it seems straight out of prehistoric times, collides with the white water of the river. Monkeys leap from tree to tree, looking for their own brand of daily mischief. Deep in my reverie, yes, I’m daydreaming, and that’s just fine. There’s a low hum, like a mantra, into which my body has tuned itself. At Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, I’m given a glimpse of the ultimate luxury meets privacy meets remoteness: A one-bedroom villa, complete with its own infinity pool, overlooking the Ayung river below. Rafters paddle by, their hollers and commands the only sound breaking the deafening roar of the birds, and the bees, and the breeze, rustling through the flowers and the trees. I perch on my elbows, and watch them go by. One of them looks up and spies me, and waves. I wave back and smile, then push away from the pool’s edge. Floating, suspended by the water, I look to the sky. Blue fills my view, jungle green in my periphery. It’s time to stretch – the body, and the mind. I can do both at Four Seasons at Sayan, the sister property to the famed over-water property Jimbaran Bay. The river plays a large role here as well, where, at the spa, the soundtrack is simply the water rushing by open windows, following the ebb and flow of the therapist’s soothing massage strokes. Later, a short stroll down the path through manicured tropical gardens, and I discover an outdoor yoga pavilion, a platform overlooking rice fields and the river. There are ribbons of stretchy fabrics hanging from the pavilion roof. We each choose our own, and our yoga teacher demonstrates how we should wrap ourselves up in order to perform the yoga moves to come. It is easier than I think it will be. The moves flow in a natural order, my body gracefully morphing from one shape into another, stretching from the top of my head to my toes, using the ribbon’s resistance for support and for the workout. The instructor asks us for one final move, to flip ourselves upside down, and strike a pose. In that moment, the curve I’ve thrown is now my own; my body straightened. Suspended again, I’m defying gravity. I’m free.
ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/indonesia/mandapa fourseasons.com/sayan/ BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 25
Here&Now DISCOVERIES + DESIGN
Snorkeling in the World’s
Aquarium
Inspired by childhood memories of Jacques Cousteau on the small screen, Waheeda Harris gets in the swim off the coast of Mexico.
Sea lion pup poses for the camera in the Sea of Cortez, Mexico.
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As
the sun starts to sink below the horizon in La Paz, the malecón is the red carpet of this small Baja town. Kids are riding bikes, teens are showing off their skateboard moves, and adults are strolling hand in hand. Everyone is moving to their own rhythm in the warmth of the evening as the fiery sunset puts on its nightly show. As I walk back to my hotel, I stop to see the statue of Jacques Cousteau, who had become an adopted resident of La Paz, here on the Baja Peninsula. Created by Salvador Rocha in 2012, the famed French explorer, conservationist and filmmaker was honoured with a statue, because he showed off this idyllic Mexican paradise and its marine life through his popular television series The Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau. As a young child, watching Cousteau was my appointment television, with his explorations of life below the waves. From massive whales to the smallest fish, sea creatures seemed as curious about Cousteau as he and his team were of them. Now, as an adult, I’m up early and trying to contain my excitement for the day’s adventure in what Cousteau called the world’s aquarium. We board a small boat with Fun Baja Tours, and head north into the Sea of Cortez. My group of guides and passengers is less than 10, and we’re skimming across the waves, the captain telling us about this UNESCO World Heritage site, a source of pride for the locals, and a bucket list destination for sea adventurers from around the world. As we pass between Isla Espíritu Santo and the Baja Peninsula, the deep blue sea contrasts against the red earth, while the occasional saguaro cactus grows tall against the pale blue sky. We keep our eyes focused on the sea, hoping to see whales or dolphins, where 34 varieties of each flourish in this marine utopia.
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Here&Now DISCOVERIES + DESIGN
Our
Swimming and Snorkeling with Sea Lions in the Sea of Cortez; Yellow tail fish.
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destination is Los Islotes, a rocky outcropping in the Sea of Cortez that has become home to a large colony of sea lions. These creatures are at home here, benefiting from the protected zone, and our group is going not just to see them, but to snorkel around Los Islotes, hoping to get close to the animals, often called the dogs of the sea for their distinctive barks as much as their friendly nature. The captain shouts commands to the crew, as the boat’s speed drops and we arrive at Los Islotes. We’re told to get ready, although we’re distracted by our first sight of the sea lions, bigger than we expected. The large males are showing off their machismo by barking loudly, while the females lie close to one another, soaking in the sunshine like sunbathers at a resort. We wriggle into our wetsuits and adjust the snorkel gear before plunging into the sea. Our guides remind us to keep together and to not get too excited or scared: the sea lions are used to people, but we are warned not to touch them and to just observe. I try to remember Cousteau’s calmness as he explored underwater, always keeping his eyes on the world around him and letting himself fall into the background. As we get closer to the rocks, we form a semicircle, keeping our heads above water as the sea lions gaze at us. Within minutes, the younger sea lions are curious and slide into the water, their ungainly movements on land becoming sleek movements in the water. We sink just below the surface, and soon the sea lions are swimming closer, their speed impressive as they come as close as the length of their whiskers, but don’t touch, quickly turning to repeat the motion again and again as we all smile and contain our excitement to keeping ourselves in the same spot despite the push and pull of the currents. As the sea lions swirl around us, it’s a game we could play for hours. Being able to watch these creatures dip and sway, twist and turn in the sea around us is better than any trained circus act. The sea lions are having fun, instinctively playing around us as we watch and learn, our joy not in movement but in the smiles that cannot be erased from our faces. Soon our guides motion to us that we must leave, and we take a last look at the sea lions, as they flop back onto the rocks, ready again for time in the sun among their colony. We snorkel just below the surface, swimming along the isle’s edges, with the sun illuminating the sea and colourful schools of fish. As we arrive at the boat, sharing our excitement of our sea lion encounter, I have had a first taste of what I imagine life was like for Jacques Cousteau and I know the thrill will never dissipate.
TRAVEL NOW
FOR THE FUTURE An initiative supported by The Travel Corporation’s (TTC) family of brands, the TreadRight Foundation is a not-for-profit working to ensure the environment and communities we visit remain vibrant for generations to come.
Learn more at treadright.org
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Here&Now PERSPECTIVE
KEEPERS OF THE FLAME A passion for preservation of culture and wildlife inspires one company to give back, and give more by ZACH VANASSE,
The TreadRight Foundation
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It’s easy to understand why people who are passionate about travel are also often the most passionate about travelling responsibly. At its core, responsible travel is an understanding on the part of travellers that the things that make their travel experiences so valuable need to be valued and cared for. Travelling responsibly is really about working to ensure the places and communities travelers visit are strengthened by tourism. For organizations like The Travel Corporation (TTC), an international company with more than 25 brands, supporting sustainable travel is not only about recognizing a responsibility to give back, it’s also smart business. Working to ensure the key ingredients to unforgettable travel experiences – such as thriving wildlife populations, well-preserved antiquities, living heritage, and healthy communities – are supported also works to ensure that they can continue to provide enduring travel moments to travellers for years to come. Which is why TTC founded the TreadRight Foundation. Established and funded as a joint initiative between TTC’s family of brands, TreadRight provides support to sustainable travel projects around the globe. Since 2008, TreadRight has partnered with leading organizations such as Tourism Cares, National Geographic and the National Trust, among many others, to support sustainable tourism development through conservation and community leadership projects. TreadRight has now helped to support some 40 projects globally, and recently announced a new project with international water development charity Just a Drop that will bring clean and safe water to three villages in the Kralanh District of North-Western Cambodia.
Previous Page: Rosa Scribe, from Norway House, Manitoba is one of Manitobah Mukluks’ Storyboot Project artists. On this page clockwise from left: Andean woman processing thread; A tiger shark; The Rizarios Foundation at TRIA in Greece; An African rhino; Laboratorio Giuditta Brozzetti (Weaving Cooperative) – Perugia, Italy.
“Just a Drop has initiated more than 130 water development projects, serving an estimated 1.3 million children and their families to date,” says TTC’s CEO and TreadRight founder Brett Tollman. “In partnering with Just a Drop in Cambodia we are now working to deliver a lasting positive impact for the 1,800 people who live in the villages of Damrey Slap, Knar Chor and Rolom Sway.” In 2014, TreadRight unveiled two new initiatives that would help them deliver comprehensive support to wildlife and heritage related projects. With the launch of the TreadRight Wildlife Initiative and the TreadRight Heritage Initiative, the not-for-profit was able to bring multiple project partners across multiple brands together under one banner to work towards a common goal. In the case of the TreadRight Wildlife Initiative, that goal is to put an end to wildlife crime, which includes poaching, wildlife trafficking, and animal enslavement. TreadRight launched the initiative with a focus on the plight of rhinos, partnering with the Wilderness Foundation – Africa and WildAid to fight back against poaching at the source in Africa and reduce the demand for rhino horn in Asia. Most recently, TreadRight announced Wildlife SOS – India, an organization working to save injured, abused and sick elephants forced to work in slums and crowded cities, as its newest Wildlife Initiative partner. The grant provided by TreadRight will allow Wildlife SOS to build an Enforcement Training Classroom at the Elephant Conservation and Care Center in Mathura, India. Within the framework of the Heritage Initiative, TreadRight has partnered with the Alliance for Artisan Enterprise to support artisan activities, which are vital to local economies and help to empower the disenfranchised. TreadRight has provided grants
to artisan organizations in Peru, Greece, Italy and Laos, and in June of this year unveiled a new partnership with the Manitobah Mukluks Storyboot School to create a semi-permanent educational workspace at Toronto’s Bata Shoe Museum at which an Aboriginal artisan will teach the heritage art of mukluk-making to local indigenous students, as well as TTC guests. “We all have our role to play in ensuring a sustainable future for our planet, especially those of us in the travel industry,” notes Tollman. “Travellers, by their very nature, have an appreciation and respect for the world, that’s why they seek out these experiences. By supporting responsible tourism, we ensure that as we enrich ourselves through our unforgettable travel experiences, we don’t forget to enrich the people and places that provide those experiences.” For anyone passionate about travel, responsible travel is more than simply giving back, it’s about making a planet that has given them so much an even better place to explore in the future.
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The New Fashion Guide for Men FALL 2016
HOW TO SUCCED WITH STYLE
The
DEBUT Issue
WHAT TO WEAR NOW
20
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30 ESSENTIAL TRENDS
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THE INFLUENCERS
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is as y e n r e jou ne your h t , s g goe tion. Refi asure n i y a old s destina ss or ple info e h t Like t as the sine in-flight u b n – er e rta impo experienc f our insid ips t l o trave the help ing travel c h CE A L – wit ress-redu L t G WA U O and s by D
BEST SEAT IN THE HOUSE Forget nostalgia for the days of Pan Am. Life at the front of the plane has never been more comfortable than it is right now. Pull out some travel points and enjoy the exclusive services of three of the best firstclass offerings in the sky.
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Ergonomically shaped seats and an air humidification system. Two-metre full-flat beds and high-end duvets, plus bone china. A privacy screen lets you choose when to socialize and when to cocoon.
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THE GOODS
CHEAT SHEET The best day to fly?
Our top picks for the tech-conscious traveller
Serenity Now
Tuesday, because there is less demand for seats and the prices are lower. The sweet spot for buying a domestic plane ticket is 55 days in advance. Don’t take your shoes off until you’ve reached cruising altitude. Always travel with a Tide stain removal pen in your carryon.
Cut Jetlag in Half HOW TO DEAL WITH THE MIDDLE SEAT
Travellers, athletes, business people and regular folk like you can now “bio-hack” your brain into thinking you’re not jetlagged. The Valkee HumanCharger is a bright-light therapy headset that sends UV-free, blue-enriched white light to where you need it the most, helping you maintain the natural rhythm of your body clock. It also helps treat and prevent seasonal affective disorder. $335, amazon.ca
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Screaming children? Loud tourists? No problem. Your new QuietComfort® 25 headphones cut cabin and engine noise to a dull roar. We don’t know how they do it, but noise-reduction technology continues to advance and the peace of mind is well worth the cost. Soft ear cushioning, nice and light, sleek look, nifty case. Oh, and the in-flight movies will sound pretty good, too. $329, bose.ca
No more dodgy hotel Internet. The new Amalfi Borderless WIFI Hotspot from Mtrex lets you connect almost anywhere, whether you’re on a bus in Turkey, cruising the mangroves in Costa Rica or working poolside in Palm Springs. Get secure wireless with no roaming charges, and top up your data online whenever you need to. $180 walmart.ca
Does it seem like you’re a magnet for the middle seat? Take these tips to heart to avoid it all together – or at least make it more palatable. • Check in online as early as possible to avoid the middle seat completely. Once at the airport, ask at the check-in desk and even at the gate if any other seats have become available since you checked in. • Once you’ve accepted your middleseat fate, pray that you get two slim Jims on either side of you. • Place your stuff in the overhead bin, and don’t worry if you have to ask the aisle person to get up mid-flight to let you into your bag. • Stake your claim on the most comfortable sections of both armrests. (You’re entitled.) • Fall asleep. Try to tacitly time bathroom breaks with your seatmates first. Or not. • Read, work, meditate, make to-do lists, watch a movie, pretend you’re on the subway. Just try to take your mind off everything and you’ll be home in a flash. • You can always go for the cabin upgrade.
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TRAVELLER PROMOTION
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TRAVELLER PROMOTION
Over 22 days, we traverse the country by plane, train, and automobile (oh, and boat!). Filled with unforgettable vistas, indescribable beauty, and unlimited fun, we soon discover that every day in Peru is the best day ever. DAY
1
ARRIVE IN LIMA
The adventure starts now!
DAY
2
DAY
LOVELY LIMA
The stunning Plaza de Armas great place to start the day. It was once used as a bullfighting ring and the surrounding cathedrals and palaces create a 360-degree view of colonial beauty.
5
It’s a 10-hour drive to Arequipa… but worth it for the beautiful views of the coastal desert, dunes, Pacific Ocean and mountains!
DAY
6
DAY
3 PARACAS & PUCUSANA & PACHACAMAC (OH MY!)
This morning, we’re up early to head to Paracas. We stop at the Pachacamac Fortress, made from adobe bricks stretches, into the distance. We stop in Pucusana for delectable octopus ceviche at the seaside food stalls! Then we hit the road again, arriving in Paracas in the evening.
DAY
4
ISLAS BALLESTAS
Paracas is the perfect launching point to sail to Islas Ballestas. We see Humboldt penguins and sea lions diving from the rocky islands! From the sea, we also get a view of the ominous, alien-like Incan design on a cliff side.
ON THE ROAD
EXPLORING AREQUIPA
As we approach Arequipa, the dramatic peak of the volcano, Misti, comes into view! Its rock was used in the city’s buildings, thus their distinct white hue. I’ll never forget the vivid colours of the Santa Catalina Convent (still lived in by nuns today.)
DAY
7
DRIVE TO CHIVAY
We drive through barren deserts for hours, making the fertile Colca Canyon in Chivay even more spectacular when we arrive. At 12,000 feet, I can really feel the altitude!
DAY
8
DAY
CONDOR SEARCHING
Today is a full day—watching Andean Condors swoop around the canyon, meeting locals who still live traditional ways of life, and the striking stepped agricultural terraces. The relaxing hot springs is the perfect end to the day!
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DAY
CUSCO OR BUST
If I ever forgot how big Peru is, driving for 10 hours across the Altiplano, the high plains separating from the Andes from the Amazon, reminded me! There were lots of fun stops: the preIncan town of Pucara, the Raqchi Inca Temple, and the snow-capped La Raya Pass mountain range.
14 DEAD WOMAN’S PASS
Today, we reached the highest point of the trail (13,000 feet), at the ominous sounding Dead Woman’s Pass. Don’t worry— it’s named for its unique shape.
DAY
9
THE ROAD TO PUNO
Back on the road as we drive through to mountains to Puno, on the shores of Lake Titicaca. See some vicuñas (sort of like a little camel.)
DAY
10
FLOAT YOUR BOAT
The most memorable images of Lake Titicaca are the majestic floating reed islands built by the descendants of the Uros people. Even boats are made entirely of reeds!
DAY
12
THE SACRED VALLEY
Just outside Cusco is the Sacred Valley, an area of seemingly endless farmland. The handicraft market at Pisac is the perfect place to get some unique souvenirs. And the immense Ollantaytambo, an Inca fortress that climbs up the mountainside, has to be seen to be believed!
DAY
13
TREASURE TRAIL
The 4-day Inca Trail expedition begins! We walk from KM82 to a small hamlet called Huayllabamba. It’s a high altitude hike, but so far so good!
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DAY
15
DAY
RUIN IT
Today we visited the mossy ruins of the Sayacmarca settlement. And a campground doesn’t get any more picturesque than the Inca fortress, Phuyupatamarca!
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DAY
HOLD THE FORT
There’s lots to see in Cuzco. One of my favourite parts is just outside of town: the fortress of Sacsayhuaman made a giant stones cut and fit together without mortar. It’s an amazing sight to see!
DAY
16
THE HOME STRETCH
This is it: the last day of the trail and we made it to Machu Picchu! The unbelievable site is worth the effort to get here. Amazing to think that this breathtaking creation was left undiscovered for centuries. An unforgettable experience!
DAY
17
EXPLORING MACHU PICCHU
We head up to the citadel early in the morning before too many tourists arrive. It gives me prime opportunity to take some great shots! In the afternoon, we take a picturesque train ride along the river to Cusco.
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DAY
19
TAKE ME TO CHURCH
It’s the last day in the lovely town of Cusco. We visit the small but opulent San Blas Church. Note the human skull embedded in the sculpture of St. Paul!
DAY
20
WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE
By plane, boat, and foot, we’ve finally made our way to the jungle and our lodge in the magnificent Tambopata Reserve. A nighttime walk along the forest trails is both fascinating and a little scary, as we spot some tarantulas!
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EXPLORING JUNGLE EXPLORATION BY BOAT AND ON FOOT
We head high up into the canopy of the rainforest for a truly incredible view. Tonight, we took a nighttime canoe ride into the lakes to look for caiman (a cross between a crocodile and an alligator.) It’s made for some exciting final moments in this incredible country!
DAY
22
HEAD BACK TO LIMA
Today, I flew back to Lima before connecting to my flight home… which gives me lots of time to think back fondly the extraordinary people and places in Peru.
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TRAVELLER PROMOTION
The Napo Wildlife Center 42 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
eaving the city life to the jungle eco-community and its inhabitants is a mesmerizing experience. It is a place unlike any other, located in the heart of one of the most biodiverse ecosystems on the planet. Ecuador’s Yasuní National Park is rich with extraordinary wildlife and vibrant local culture. Spanning nearly 2.5 million acres of Amazonian rain forest, this is truly a gem to be cherished. And the Napo Wildlife Center, the only lodge within Yasuní National Park boundaries, can take you there. napowildlifecenter.com
L
YasunI Sacred Land To the Kichwa Añangu, Yasuní symbolizes the abundance of life on Earth. It speaks to a world that will never be fully discovered nor fully understood, a miracle of nature. Here, there is an abundance of life like preciously few places on the planet; one hectare contains more living organisms than the entire European continent. Jaguars, tapirs, peccaries and even anacondas have all been seen by visitors traversing the ancient winding paths through the forest. Indeed, this small protected tract of land is home to 60 per cent of all new world wild cats.
Deep Roots
Moonlight Magic
One of the best ways to experience the Amazon is through the eyes of the locals and the Añangu community has made an effort to showcase how their ancestors lived, hunted and fished before gasoline and gunpowder. This information was passed down through the memory of the grandparents who inhabited the banks of the Napo River. It is knowledge freely shared with the community’s guests at the “Centro de Interpretación’’ or the Kury Muyo. There, visitors are invited to join women and mothers of the community who show them, through music, dancing, and more, their ancestral traditions and way of life.
The evenings hold many delights and mysteries. Moonlight paddle-boat rides offer excellent opportunities for getting a close-up view of caimans on the hunt. Watch the night-monkeys and other wildlife as you paddle silently around the glassy lake. It is a unique experience under the many millions of stars all set against the back-music of hundreds of frogs, toads, insects, nocturnal birds and the splashes of fish and caimans as they feed and mate.
For a close-up view of the Amazon wildlife in the Yasuní National Park, a sacred land considered one of the most diverse areas on the planet, book a premium tour or customized your own journey with the Napo Wildlife Center Call from Canada 1800 250 1992 or the US 1866 750 0830 www.napowildlifecenter.com
A Birders Paradise Whether it’s at a parrot’s clay lick or high atop the canopy, birders will witness the beautiful plumage of the area’s 600-plus species. An early morning walk down a winding jungle trail will be rewarded with the colourful cacophony of 11 species of parrots, parakeets and macaws who gather at clay licks. Even rarer birds can be witnessed alongside the unforgettable views afforded by the canopy tower at Napo. At 36m high, it allows guests to ascend through the different levels of the forest and emerge to a view previously reserved for the jungle’s cornucopia of bird species. Flocks of colourful tanagers, blue and yellow macaws and a variety of toucans found no where else, can be seen just a short walk from your cabin. BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 43
RBC AVION PRESENTS: EL SALVADOR ®
8348RBC_Bold_ElSalvador_EditorStrip_FA.indd 1
2016-08-31 5:02 PM
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WITH SURF TOWNS, VOLCANO HIKES, MOUNTAIN LAKES AND DUNEBUGGYING THROUGH COLONIAL TOWNS, EL SALVADOR IS CENTRAL AMERICA’S NEW FRONTIER FOR ADVENTURE by ANDREW
BRUDZ
by MARK
TYM
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IN A WEEK, TRAVELLERS CAN EXPLORE BEAUTIFUL BEACHES, VOLCANOES, COLOURFUL TOWNS AND MEET PEOPLE
PEACE IS NOT A WORD OFTEN ASSOCIATED WITH EL SALVADOR. BUT FORGET EVERYTHING YOU’VE HEARD. THIS IS THE SMALL COUNTRY’S BIG CHANCE TO BREAK OUT FROM ITS UNDESERVED REPUTATION AND TROUBLED HISTORY.
In just a few jam-packed days, we crisscross the country through lush jungle, volcanoes, rocky shores, picturesque waterfalls, Mayan ruins, misty lagoons and endless trees, finding both adventure and tranquility.
LA LA LAND Home base for my stay is AST, short for “Adventure Sports Tours.” The hotel and surf school is in El Puerto de la Libertad, a town of 36,000 on the coast of the Pacific Ocean, 20 minutes outside San Salvador. It’s the surf capital of the country and one of the most popular destinations for surfers in Central America. Malecón, its ocean-side promenade, is speckled with rustic bars, restaurants and surf hotels and adorned with crumbling concrete planters shaped like turtles, starfish and seahorses. At night, the street becomes a makeshift dance floor with pulsing Latin beats and strobe lights. Jutting out into the ocean is a fishing pier, where I see boats being hoisted out of the water by a crane. The catch of day is sold at a market right on the pier. AST is owned by Jorge Menjivar, who becomes my de facto tour guide during my stay. The 36-year-old, with salt-and-pepper hair and moviestar looks, was born in nearby Santa Tecla. He started as an unofficial guide while in college, arranging itineraries and tours for friends and visitors who wanted to experience surfing in El Salvador. After college, he made his hobby a full-time career with AST, introducing surfers to La Libertad’s most famous waves: the advanced, world-class Punta Roca and the gentler La Paz. Over the years, his fledgling business evolved: “We found more people were interested in travelling to El Salvador, not only surfers but travellers wanting to explore the land. In a week, travellers can explore beautiful beaches, volcanoes, colourful towns and meet people,” Jorge adds.
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Joy Road Catering’s Chilled cucumber & buttermilk soup with heirloom cherry tomatoes, bush basil, mint & espelette.
Joy Road Catering’s Chilled cucumber & buttermilk soup with heirloom cherry tomatoes, bush basil, mint & espelette.
Previous page: Surfing at Punta Roca in La Libertad. This page (clockwise from the top): Volcanic lake atop Santa Ana; Mayan ruins at San Andres; Surfboard “hospital” in El Puerto de la Libertad. BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 49
EL SALVADOR IS THIS BEAUTIFULLY RAW, AUTHENTIC, WILD COUNTRY
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Opposite page: Boating on Lake Coatepeque. This page (clockwise from the top left): Iglesia Inmaculada Concepción de María in Ataco; Lake Coatepeque; Los Chorros de la Calera in Juayúa; fresh shrimp & white fish ceviche. BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 51
A COUNTRY IN TRANSITION El Salvador may be Central America’s smallest country, but it’s also the most densely populated, with 6.8 million people in an area smaller than Rhode Island, and it’s big on heart, determination and spectacle. A history of political turmoil, a devastating civil war from 1979 to 1992, and the subsequent poverty and violence have tarnished its reputation as a tourist destination. Jorge explains, “It’s changed in the 2000s, but people still think El Salvador can be a dangerous country.” And by all accounts, it’s an unjust reputation. Outside the capital, it feels as safe as anywhere else in Central America. Things have been on the up recently, as El Salvador now ranks 4th in the Human Development Index in Central America. The country’s raw power and off-the-beaten-path vibe is exactly what’s attracting free-spirited travellers like Maurizia Cecconi. The 41-year-old Italian-born, Olympic-synchronized-swimmer-turned-Cirque-du-Soleilaerialist-turned-coach is here to experience the area’s much-lauded surfing. After beginning her latest athletic endeavour three years ago, cutting her teeth on waves in Hawaii, Mexico and Costa Rica, Maurizia was drawn to the renowned breaks of El Salvador. Sporting a sweater proclaiming, “Not All Who Wander Are Lost,” she says, “I was looking for good surf and a memorable adventure. Everyone knows the surf is epic in El Salvador. Seeing these empty, beautiful surf breaks makes me happy.” HERE COMES SANTA ANA It’s a holiday in El Salvador, Fiestas Agostinas, a weeklong celebration of the patron saint of San Salvador. It means that, more than any other time of the year, the country’s attractions are teeming with El Salvadorians. How nice to see local people enjoying their own country. What’s usually a small-group hike up the Santa Ana volcano (known as Ilamatepec to locals) takes on the feeling of a pilgrimage. With hundreds of El Salvadorians and only a few foreigners, we make the 2.5-hour trek through the flower-speckled forest up the volcano. Every clearing offers a new and equally breathtaking view of the mountainous countryside. Once at the top, clouds fill the bowl of the volcano, like a steaming cauldron, hiding the turquoise lake deep inside it. Exhausted hikers sit on the rugged terrain, enjoying homemade zapote popsicles that venders carried up in coolers balanced on their shoulders. After a much-needed rest, we make our way back down, through refreshing bursts of rain. At the base, food stands sell the ubiquitous but never unwelcomed pupusas (a deliciously salty pancake stuffed with beans and melty cheese) and buñuelos con dulce de panela (essentially deep fried balls of dough served in a bowl of warm, liquid panela sugar).
JUMP IN THE LAKE The heart and soul of El Salvador, though, comes to a glorious crescendo at Lake Coatepeque, an area that brings together everything that makes the country wonderful – food, people and awe-inspiring nature. Formed from the collapse of a magma chamber, the crater lake is one of the largest in the country. A mosaic of green mountains surrounds the volcanic caldera. Inside the lake is Teopan, an island once inhabited by the Quiché, one of the Maya peoples. Today, vacation homes dot its perimeter with docks jutting into the water from all sides. Rowboats glide along and sea-doos skip over the lake’s otherwise calm surface. We hire a local boatman to motor us over to a more secluded part of the lake. Here, we dive in, along with families, splashing, laughing and swimming in the water. While hovering in the water with Maurizia, we 52 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
talk more about our time in El Salvador. “For some reason, I felt that it had even more to offer me,” she says. And she was right. “El Salvador is this beautifully raw, authentic, wild country. The fishermen’s lives I’ve seen here are memories that I will carry with me and will remain close to my heart.” After drying off on shore, we have lunch at one of the rickety, mountainside restaurants, propped up on stilts. Fresh seafood is the area’s mainstay. We order a refreshing, limey shrimp-and-white-fish ceviche, and sopa de mariscos, which looks like the chef simply reached into the ocean and grabbed a handful of fish, shrimp and crab and added it to a rich broth. Overlooking the grand lake, the boat we rode only a few moments ago is now a tiny speck in the distance, leaving a comet tail behind it.
ABOUT TOWNS Driving through towns and countryside, I see smiling people, still excited by and curious of the sight of foreign visitors. Around each bend, another awesome view of the mountains is revealed. Every mountain town is complete with the cobblestone streets, stucco buildings and stunning churches you come to expect from this part of the world, but each with its own unique charm. Restaurants and cafés surround the town square; indigo-dyed clothing, woven blankets and bags are for sale. Juayúa, a town of less than 10,000 founded in 1577, is known for its hard workers at a nearby coffee factory and a weekly food festival at stalls lining its plaza. Today, it’s in the middle of boisterous holiday celebrations, with snake charmers, pineapple cocktails and children riding on horses. We hike up to some natural waterfalls, Chorros de la Calera, filled with locals, happy to be splashing around inside the concrete basins added at the base of the falls. Nearby Ataco has almost twice the population. During the civil war, it became an artists’ haven, where painters, musicians and poets fled to continue their work in relative safety. Their influence can still be seen today in its famous murals depicting everyday life, from birthday parties to coffee farms. By the time we get to Anapeca, the sun is setting. Coffee plantations, with their telltale grid pattern of green hues, up on the mountain overlook the white, pristine Iglesia San Andres. Severely damaged in a 2001 earthquake, it’s in the midst of a painstaking restoration. We can make it in time for the last outing of buggy cars that day. The clunky cars seat two, as we zip through the streets of the nowsleepy town. We get to Laguna verde just in time to watch the mist roll in suddenly. It creates an atmospheric, dreamscape of Cypress trees, shored canoes and roaming cattle. We take a walk around the lagoon with our guide, Sergio. He’s 18, with a swoop of glossy black hair and a still-boyish face. I ask him if is he likes his job. With a wide smile and introspective gaze out into the misty forest, he says he loves it, explaining that it gives him plenty of time to think and relief from stress. “It gives me peace,” he says. Afterwards, we get coffee at Café La Casona, a two-storey open-air café overlooking the forest. Lights aglow inside mason jars dangle from tree branches on the ceiling. I think more about Sergio’s words, befitting our serene surroundings, the air of tranquil stillness, the slow-motion calm and the quiet dignity of the people that live here – a nation and a people perhaps finally feeling at peace.
IT BRINGS ME PEACE
Clockwise from top left: Ripe coffee beans; A barista at Café La Casona is Anapeca; Colourful murals in Ataco. BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 53
On this page: Roasted eggplant and buffalo mozzarella with tomato and beet salsa. Opposite page: Borgoluce agro-tourism estate where Flavours Holidays Food Tours take place, Veneto.
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A self-appointed princess of pasta and Prosecco dons her apron for a cooking holiday in Northern Italy by ANITA DRAYCOTT
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“A Flavours holiday is not about teaching you knife skills,”
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On this page: Bounty from the Borgoluce includes panna cotta, various cheeses, charcuterie, honey and wine available at the estate store and Frasca, its rustic café and live stock. Opposite page: Carpaccio with generous shavings of white truffles.
Now that everyone has arrived, Livia invites us into the dining room where we have more bubbles and a light lunch of Buffalo mozzarella, cold meats and salads. Livia explains how our week will unfold and distributes recipes and Flavours aprons. “A Flavours holiday is not about teaching you knife skills,” she says. We want to give you a taste of the authentic flavours of the region.” And who better to do that than our chef for the week, Gabriella Salvador, who lives on the estate? Gabriella doesn’t speak English so Livia, also a chef, does the translating. This afternoon we are welcome to take a stroll, go for a dip in the natural bioorganic pool, or perhaps have a nap. I opt for the latter, opening the windows in my large bedroom with its beamed ceiling to doze off to birdsong and the fresh country breeze. Later, the popping of corks and tempting aromas wafting from the kitchen draw us down to dinner where Gabriella has prepared some of her family favourites: potato and pea soup, roast veal, braised onions, fried eggplant and a platter of just-picked cucumbers and tomatoes. Dessert is a quince tart followed by a tad too much Grappa. If our small convivial group has one thing in common it’s a passion for food. Next morning we enjoy a breakfast of homemade preserves, estate yogurt, fruit and warm bread. Gabriella arrives with all the ingredients for today’s cooking lesson. Time to roll up the sleeves and make pasta from scratch for the vegetable pasticcio, a sort of lasagna made with zucchini and béchamel sauce. If you have never tried to knead and roll pasta, trust me, it’s hard work. My square of dough is uneven and keeps shrinking, but Gabriella’s deft rolling skills save the day. Our main course is a savoury stew made with estate buffalo meat, root vegetables and a hefty splash of wine. We learn that that classic northern Italian dessert, tiramisu, means “pick me up.” It was created by a madam in a house of Venetian prostitutes to give her girls extra energy! Due to its proximity to both the sea and lagoons, fish is prevalent in the cuisine of the Veneto region. On the menu this week will be a dish made with salt cod and another of sardines that are salted and soured and left to marinate a few days in the refrigerator. Risotto is another popular dish, one that Gabriella likes with fresh sweet peas.
Who has not been seduced by Italy’s la dolce vita? Haven’t we all harboured a fantasy to take off and live in an Italian villa? My fantasy has come true. I’m at the Susegana villa on the Borgoluce estate in the Veneto region about 50 km from Venice, where I’ve signed up for a stint with Flavours Holidays. A driver picked me up at the Marco Polo airport and now I’m sitting on the terrace with my hostess for the week, Livia di Giovani, who pours me the first of many flutes of Prosecco to come. By early afternoon the rest of our small group arrives. We have David, Vanessa and Gloria from different parts of England; Corné who has flown from South Africa; Rob and Mary who live in France.
Land of Milk and Honey Borgoluce is an agro-tourism estate consisting of 1,200 hectares of woodlands, pastures, vineyards and grain fields in the province of Treviso. For a few weeks in spring and autumn, Flavours rents its Susegana villa for cooking holidays. Borgoluce raises its own buffalo, cattle and pigs. The property produces buffalo milk products and charcuterie, plus wine, grains, olive oil and honey—all sold at the estate’s store. This truly is the “land of milk and honey.” Having attended some of Flavours Holidays in other parts of Italy, I can vouch that this is no sterile cooking school experience; it’s more like being part of an intimate Italian house party where you’re welcome to raid the fridge for leftovers or brew a pot of tea.
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On this page: Charcuterie made from Borgoluce’s own cattle, pigs and water buffalo. Opposite page top: Rosemary focaccia with sun-dried tomatoes and olives on the menu at Osteria Borgoluce; the Veneto’s famous fizz, Prosecco.
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Venice Here We Come While there’s no lack of hands-on cooking experiences on a Flavours holiday, there’s ample opportunity to relax and explore. On Monday, our merry group is driven to Venice. We take a vaporetto along the Grand Canal to the famous Rialto Market where we sample spritzes at Al Merca, a cupboard-sized wine bar. The spritz cocktail that originated in Venice is made of Aperol bitters, Prosecco, a dash of mineral water and garnished with a slice of orange or an olive. After a bit of shopping, Livia introduces us to cicchetti. These are basically Italian tapas on toothpicks, a cheap and cheerful way to mingle and munch with locals. We stroll through the maze of narrow streets, up and over countless bridges until we arrive at the grand Piazza San Marco that Napoleon described as the drawing room of Europe. Livia suggests we go for posh cocktails at the Belmond Hotel Cipriani on Giudecca Island so we hop aboard the hotel’s private launch for the five-minute cruise. Opened in 1958 by Giuseppe Cipriani, founder of Harry’s Bar in Venice and inventor of the Bellini cocktail, (Prosecco with peach purée), the Cipriani is where George and Amal Clooney celebrated their wedding reception. Livia likes to take her guests to the Cipriani because the gardens and swimming pool provide such an oasis in bustling Venice. Besides, maybe there will be a Clooney sighting.
Prosecco 101 On Tuesday we shop at the fish market in Treviso before heading to the Malibran winery. The Veneto region is the birthplace of the glera grape used to make Prosecco. It’s a huge wine-making region, but the finest Prosecco is grown in the 35-kilimetre stretch between the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. Only these wines carry the DOCG appellation. Prosecco from the rest of the Vento has the DOC appellation. Another excursion takes us to Conegliano, where the remains of a 10th century castle dominates over the pretty town where the Prosecco wine trail starts. It’s Gabriella’s night off so we enjoy a steak dinner at Osteria Borgoluce on the estate. On the morning of our last day, we go on a foraging expedition. On June 24, the feast day of San Giovanni (St. John the Baptist) it’s a tradition in Italy to collect green walnuts, halve them and let them soak in pure alcohol to make a liquor called Nocino. Back in the kitchen, we labour over bigoli (thick noodles) and a sauce of salted sardines and onions. The main course is a local dogfish flavoured with little prickly cucumbers, capers and parsley. For dessert we make a sublime strawberry mousse and Livia produces some already-aged Nocino. We learn a new Italian toast: “A tavola, non si invecchia mai… se si mangia tanto.” (At the table you never grow old…if you eat a lot.)
www.flavoursholidays.com
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On this page: Entrance to the the Emerald Cave. Opposite page: Sunbathers inside the Emerald Cave.
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Thailand is a soul-saturating experience. Every aspect, from the colours and flavours to the painted landscapes and people. My first hit of Thailand was a wild ride of adventure and one-in-a-million moments that would be impossible to recreate anywhere else. I’ve tried it all – from sunset yoga on a private island, riding elephants and navigating small villages by bike. But for me, it was an adventure swimming through inky water in a pitch-black cave to discover a secret beach in the Andaman Sea that was the most permeating. It was after this that I knew Thailand was in my system forever, and would be impossible to shake. Most travelers know Southern Thailand for its lazy beach culture by day and frenetic party scene by night. A crosssection of grungy backpackers meets barefoot elegance on dozens of islands ringed by sugary sand in the middle of the Andaman Sea. Closer to Krabi is the small beach community of Si Kao, and the luxury resort Anantara Si Kao. This beachside resort is a perfect home base for exploring the natural wonders around Si Kao and the nearby city of Trang. Trang is a province with an extensive coastline that runs about 123 miles along the Andaman Sea. Despite its geography, which is similar to Krabi and Phang Nga, with idyllic islands, bleached beaches and commanding cliffs, the province remains infrequently visited by tourists. Trang has both mainland beaches and a string of 46 offshore islands. In search of the storied Emerald Cave, I boarded a private speedboat from the resort dock and rocketed through the glassy green-blue waters toward a cluster of cliffs that rise dramatically out of the sea. This is an excursion provided by the hotel, but if you wish to go on your own you can hire a boat from Pak Meng Pier in Si Kao. It is a 40-minute trip and costs 1,500 Thai baht (about $55 CDN).
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Armed with a guide, a flashlight and a life vest, I dipped my feet into the warm, bath-like sea before hopping over the side with a liquidy plop. My guide took off in front of me like a seal, gliding effortlessly through the water, while I doggy paddled awkwardly behind him. We cut our way through the clear water into the recesses of a narrow, pitch-black tunnel. Hesitantly I followed him inside, waiting for my eyes to adjust to the fuzzy black and the grainy beam of light emitting from his low-power flashlight. I swam in the chilly darkness for about 250 feet, lit only by the small glow of the flashlight and the voice of my guide. Dodging jellyfish and putting all of my trust in a stranger, I inched along in the darkness, listening to nothing but water licking the rock faces and bats fluttering above. After what seemed a long time, faded bands of light began to seep into the black calling us out. From out of the darkness we suddenly emerged into a cavernous opening – a private pool of brilliantly turquoise water, ringed in sand, protected by imposing, vine-covered cliffs that circled from every angle, all reaching upward to a gaping opening to the sunny sky. The beating sun electrifies the water in the centre, making it the burst with emerald colours that bounce onto the tunnel’s walls, giving inspiration for the cave’s name. It’s quiet. Peaceful. The sun baked saltwater onto my skin leaving me with that blissful, sticky beach feeling, while grains of sand clung to my legs. I tore off my life vest and tossed it on the shore and dipped my entire body into the warm water. I gazed up at the sun, letting it wash over my face, marveling at the great stripes of green that danced on the rock faces, and the jungled vines that roped around and clung to the craggy surfaces. You can’t stay in paradise for too long, because as the tide comes in the entrance closes up, keeping the cave’s secrets for another cycle. Before I strapped my life vest back on, I took one last look around at this Garden of Eden. Thailand’s adventure arsenal may seem endless, but here, it felt right to be alone, where all that exists is the whispering lapping of jewel-coloured water onto white sugared sand.
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Guide The
With glitzy hotels, top-notch restaurants and show-stopping spectacles, here, how to take care of business like a local in America’s capital of hedonism by CHLOE COLLITZ
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3A LAY OF THE LAND THE STRIP This 3 ½-mile-long stretch of Las Vegas Boulevard is packed with more than 20 of the world’s largest casino-resorts and nearly 70,000 hotel rooms. DOWNTOWN The financial heart of the city is also home to Las Vegas’s best museums, galleries and one-off boutiques. GETTING AROUND Most hotels are within a 10-minute drive of McCarren International Airport. Taxis are ideal; for travel within the Strip, consider walking or taking the monorail. lvmonorail.com
WHERE TO DROP YOUR BAGS 1- SLS Las Vegas Hotel & Casino (formerly know as the Sahara Hotel & Casino.) It was here that legends like Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and Sammy Davis Jr. crooned and cocktailed, and the only Vegas hotel where The Beatles would stay. Sixty years later, SLS spruced up Vegas’ iconic past with more than 1,600 guest rooms and
suites, an engaging gaming experience, two expansive pools, and its diverse collection of acclaimed sbe restaurant and nightlife brands. slslasvegas.com
country to hold the Kobe Beef Marketing & Distribution Promotion Association Certification to buy and serve authentic Kobe beef. slslasvegas.com/dining
WHERE TO GO FOR
4- DIGNIFIED DRINKS The Chandelier Lounge is your spot: a multi-story visual wonder housing three unique bar experiences, yes, within a sparkling oversized chandelier setting. Signature drink: the Forbidden Fruit. cosmopolitanlasvegas.com
2- DINNER SOLO The Libertine Social the hottest spot at Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino. Chef Shawn McClain elevates traditional American bar food to the next level. The LIBERTINE BURGER “kraft-ed” cheese, local tomato, caramelized onion, bordelaise & belgian fries is a crowd pleaser. mandalaybay.com 3- DINNER WITH VIPS From smoking cocktails to Kobe Beef Ishiyaki and spherified olives, Bazaar Meat by José Andrés attracts both power brokers and globetrotters. James Beard Award-winning - and Time’s “100 Most Influential People” - Chef Andrés combines traditional Spanish flavours with cutting edge culinary techniques. Bazaar Meat is one of only three restaurants in Las Vegas and one of nine in the
5- LANDING GEAR AC + Desert Air = dried out skin. The solution? CLINIQUE Moisture Surge Extended Thirst Relief - a “drink” for skin. This refreshing, oil-free cream-gel leaves the skin looking and feeling healthier even through shifts in humidity. $46/50ml clinique.ca WHEN YOU GO Book Air Canada Rouge Premium Economy Service, with 2 direct daily flights to Las Vegas. aircanada.com
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esting within a natural amphitheatre, the Amanjiwo Resorts is one of Indonesia’s most enriching and elegant places at which to lodge. Hundreds of archaeological monuments are in its vicinity, including UNESCO world heritage site Borobudur, a Buddhist sanctuary, all enclosed in a lush tropical landscape. Graced with limestone walls, Amanjiwo – which means peaceful soul in Indonesian – features 36 suites and offers a breathtaking view of the Menoreh Hills with no less than four volcanoes on the horizon; bringing to mind the Vedantic principle of atma jiva (the evolutionary journey of one’s individual soul). The clean classic understated luxury here is complemented by a “nothing we can’t do for you” service ethos.
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All suites are set within two graceful and sophisticated crescents, positioned around the central Rotunda. The pantheon-like circular architecture provides the optimal space for an oasis of luxury, with strategically placed pavilions that feature the sweeping views overlooking Borobudur. The suites feature terrazzo flooring, high ceilings, domed roofs and sliding glass doors that open onto a garden terrace. All suites include a thatched roof pavilion with a daybed for outdoor lounging and dining. This dream-like hotel itself is worth a visit even disregarding the location, but its role as a base in the heart of the arts centre of Indonesia provides guests with a uniquely cultural and deeply-felt emotional experience. aman.com/resorts/amanjiwo Lea Puechel
Image courtesy of Aman
Featured: The Dalem Jiwo Suite
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