Berlin Fashion Week Magazine #24 by Berlin Fashion Week Magazine

SPRING / SUMMER 2018 REFERENCE STUDIOS – MUMI HAIATI & HIS BERLIN TRIBE D E S I G N E R F O R T O M O R R O W AW A R D – S T E L L A M C C A R T N E Y D O E S I T A G A I N H I G H S N O B I E T Y C E O D AV I D F I S C H E R TA L K S S T R E E T W E A R / A T R I B U T E T O GIANNI VE RSACE / BE RLIN FOOD E XPE RIE NCE – THE WORLD IN A BOWL

Berlin Fashion Week Magazine #24

WELCOME

Message from the Governing Mayor of Berlin Michael Müller

Fashion Week is one of Berlin’s trademarks as a fashion capital. Exciting new collections and the latest trends are presented here, while Berlin time and again proves to be the consummate meeting place for buyers, industry professionals, journalists and fashion lovers from all over the world. The latest industry developments are scrutinised here by a knowledgeable international audience. Years ago, almost no one would have predicted that Fashion Week would someday be a major platform for the fashion world. Since its

inception, however, Fashion Week has evolved to become a compelling showcase for designers from around the globe and for both young and established labels. In that sense, the fashion industry offers more proof of the pervasive spirit of entrepreneurship that spurs our city’s economic development. On that note, welcome to Berlin Fashion Week! I would like to wish all of our visitors an exciting time along the runway, as well as memorable encounters at all of the shows and while exploring our vibrant city.

Imprint PUBLISHER

CONTRIBUTORS

COVER

ADVERTISING

Anita Tillmann | Dr. Florian Bachelin

Chris Danforth | Violet Kiani

Photographer: Maxime Ballesteros

Advertising Director | Marco Gröning

Jörg Arntz

Tina Molin | Till Schröder

www.maximeballesteros.com

Junior Advertising Manager | Hauke Krüger

Janine Dudenhöffer | Katrice Dustin

Berlin Tribe: Mumi Haiati & Friends

PREMIUM E XHIBITIONS GMBH

Berit Großwendt – Room 26

Luckenwalder Strasse 4–6 | 10963 Berlin

Barbara Stummer – Room 26

+49 (0)30 62 90 850

PRINTING ART DIRECTION

Wagemann Medien GmbH

Sonnenstaub – Büro für Gestaltung

Leuschnerdamm 31 | 10999 Berlin

magazine@berlinfashionweek.com

TR ANSL ATION

und Illustration

+49 (0)30 62 73 52 30

www.berlinfashionweek.com

Nivene Raafat

Sonja Marterner | Peter Großöhme

info@wagemann-medien.de

Greifswalder Strasse 29 | 10405 Berlin

www.wagemann-medien.de

EDITORIAL

CIT Y GUIDE

+49 (0)30 55 57 79 29 0

Editor-in-Chief | Christine Zeine

Lena Brombacher

hallo@sonnenstaub.com

Managing Editor | Lena Brombacher

www.sonnenstaub.com

ECONOMY

P O W E R O

M A N Y

ECONOMY

Berlin: just a place full of penniless creatives, right? Hype envy – there’s plenty going around. Reality tells a different story. For some time now, profitable fashion brands have also been a common sight along the Spree. A glance at the figures confirms the enormous economic surge of an intrinsically global industry. Fashion generates over € 2 trillion worldwide. If fashion were its own country, it would have the seventh-largest economy in the world with annual growth rates of five percent. That’s according to recent calculations released by industry insiders The Business of Fashion and McKinsey. In Germany, fashion produces over € 31 billion in revenue, € 4.2 billion of which is generated by 2,500 Berlin-based companies employing 24,000 people. It ranks first among the country’s cities. German brands may not be setting the catwalks ablaze just yet – but they do dominate entire market segments. Adidas, Hugo Boss, C&A, Escada, Jil Sander and s.Oliver are titans of the medium price bracket. In 2015 Adidas managed to generate as much turnover on its own as Chanel, Prada and Dior combined. Each year Berlin Fashion Week attracts over 200,000 guests, who, in turn, bring more than € 120 million into the city each season. Most recently, exhibitors have generated income totalling over € 73 million, pushing Berlin up to No. 3 on the 2016 global ranking of fashion trade shows (ahead of Paris and Milan). At PREMIUM GROUP shows alone, which feature over 1,800 brands, 70 percent of exhibitors come from outside Germany, which helps explain why Berlin regularly pops up in top 10 lists of the world’s most popular fashion cities.

Admittedly, things are different in Berlin than in London, New York and Tokyo. Here wages are lower; consumers are a little more frugal with their money in this metropolis of individualists. Berlin takes a more experimental,

relaxed approach – more conventional brands flourish elsewhere. Fresh ideas are therefore vital. Berlin presides over the country’s highest concentration of fashion schools, with ten institutes producing 300 graduates every year, and the highest density of ateliers, with well over 1,600 studios. Then there’s the Fashion Council Germany, who bring together expertise and talent from across the land. A digital catalyst, Berlin is constantly pushing the full gamut of fashion tech, with blogger conferences, co-working incubators and start-ups like The Factory and re:publica. Its core concepts, such as upcycling, wearables and smart recycling, will find fertile ground here. And Zalando is building a multi-million-euro headquarters in Berlin – its second. The city is buzzing in countless niche areas. And herein lies its strength: the power of many. Politicians have sussed it out. Brigitte Zypries will be the first Federal Minister for Economic Affairs and Energy to visit Berlin Fashion Week. In the last decade, Berlin has invested € 10 million in the city’s fashion industry. Paris plans to top its sector up to the tune of € 57 million by 2020. In this age of the World Wide Web and social media, fashion is global – and available 24/7. A good idea is now worth twice or thrice as much. To use Berlin’s eternal motto: Da kiekste, wa! (Or ‘Not too bad, huh?’ to those new to the local lingo.)

Brigitte Zypries, Federal Minister for Economic A ffairs and Energy, will open the PREMIUM trade show at the start of Berlin Fashion Week. The event will take place in two stages. After being given a presentation by the Fashion Council G ermany on various steps in place to promote fresh talent, the minister will be given a guided tour of the PREMIUM show led by the management team.

4 July 2017, 11:00–11:45 Fashion Council Germany reception by invitation only

4 July 2017, 11:45–12:30 PREMIUM guided tour through the exhibition halls / by invitation only

RADAR

Ooho! – water you can eat London start-up Skipping Rocks Lab has created edible packaging for liquids. The Ooho! water bubble is inspired by molecular cuisine. A technique known as ‘spherification’ is used to shape water into a sphere. Brown algae extract and calcium chloride form a gel-like structure that acts as a stretchy membrane. A second membrane is used as hygienic packaging. Remove it and the remaining sphere is 100 % edible. You can either pop it in your mouth or carefully bite into it and drink the liquid inside. The non-edible membrane will biodegrade after four to six weeks.

R ADAR Spectacles – cameraequipped sunglasses

Snap’s camera sunglasses are one of America’s most sought-after gadgets. Instead of just keeping track of your filming exploits via your smartphone screen, you can now watch and record what’s happening directly in front of you simply by touching a button on your shades. The integrated camera films the event from the wearer’s perspective with a 115-degree wideangle lens and a microphone. To avoid any data protection issues, the sunglasses feature in-built LED lights that flash while the ten se cond film is being recorded. www.spectacles.com

Grohe Sense – the intelligent water sensor If your washing machine suddenly springs a leak, a few drips needn’t mean a full-on flood thanks to Grohe’s latest smart home innovation. Grohe Sense is an intelligent water sensor that detects leaks in your home. As soon as the sensor comes into contact with water, Grohe Sense emits a beeping sound and a flashing red light, and also sends an alert to your smartphone via the Grohe Ondus app. www.grohe.de

Rei Kawakubo/ Comme des Garçons – Art of the In-Between A new fashion publication is selling fast – one that is being lauded as a real collector’s item. The book in question is the catalogue accompanying the Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons exhibition ‘Art of the In-Between’ currently on show in New York. It features around 140 of Kawakubo’s womenswear creations for Comme des Garçons, ranging from the early 1980s to her latest collection. The exhibition is running until 4 September and is a must for anyone in New York. If you can't manage to see it in person, at least be sure to get the book! You can order it online. www.metmuseum.org

Rei Kawakubo below © Paolo Roversi, Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art / above © Craig McDean, Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art

www.skippingrockslab.com

SERIE 9000 | WASCHMASCHINEN MIT SOFTWATER-TECHNOLOGIE

DER BESCHÜTZER DES KLEINEN SCHWARZEN Farben, so kräftig wie am ersten Tag. Als erste Waschmaschinen überhaupt enthärten die Geräte der Serie 9000 von AEG das Wasser, bevor es in die Trommel gelangt. Jedes Kleidungsstück wird so schonend und gründlich gereinigt – selbst bei niedrigen Temperaturen. Das Resultat: Form und Qualität bleiben bestehen und Farben behalten auch nach vielen Wäschen ihre Intensität. Erfahren Sie mehr auf www.aeg.de/softwater

THE BER

RLIN TRIBE

COVER STORY

ULTR A CONTEM POR ARY Text by KATRICE DUSTIN Photos by MAXIME BALLESTEROS

Reference Studios, the former Bureau Haiati, is leading the way to a new era of cross-platform public relations, with an international network of clients, friends and collaborators from every corner of the globe. Representing carefully-selected labels and companies such as Ottolinger, Grindr, Faith Connexion and Slam Jam, the Berlin-based communications agency is at the centre of counter-culture, aiming to bridge the gap between the traditional and the conceptual, all while keeping the people that surround them at the heart of everything they do. Here, we meet the team at Reference Studios along with their tribe of visionaries, to find out what makes them tick and why theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re proud to call this place home.

MUMI HAIATI Founder Reference Studios

Mumi Haiati has become an instantly recognisable face within the international fashion community. After a decade spent climbing the industry ladder in New York, London, Paris and Barcelona, he seized the opportunity to create an international communications platform based in Berlin, and thus in 2014 Bureau Haiati (now Reference Studios) was born. With an ultra-contemporary touch that is devoid of ‘PR clichés’ and more reminiscent of curation, this Persian-born, Düsseldorf-bred maverick has successfully paved the way for a forwardthinking approach to fashion public relations that feels, ultimately, at one with the zeitgeist. How did you get started in PR? Back in the day, I started out interning at Totem. At that time, they handled PR for some of my favourite designers, like Raf Simons and Walter Van Beirendonck.

Have you always wanted to work in fashion? I’ve always had a strong affinity for fashion, but at first I actually wanted to become an actor. I got accepted by an elite acting school and moved to the UK. When I moved to London, I started hanging out with all sorts of inspiring people and realised that my place was in fashion.

Why did you start your agency in Berlin, as opposed to somewhere like Paris or London? I felt a need to create a platform with an international voice based here in Berlin. It’s a city of free spirits that offers people a generous amount of space to grow. In our unpredictable world, I think this is much needed. Berlin is also the creative hub of Europe these days, which is why we believe it's so relevant. There’s so much more to come from this city – this is only the beginning.

Why the name change from Bureau Haiati to Reference Studios? Reference Studios is the new chapter of Bureau Haiati. Since we’ve now established a truly international reach, it’s time for us to branch out into different avenues

and set the tone for a new stage of creative exchange and expression. We have a very exciting cultural project on the horizon. Keep an eye on us and you’ll find out very soon!

What makes the people you are surrounded by so special? Each of these individuals is beautifully unique in their own right, with a powerful point of view on the world. I am very proud of how our ‘tribe’ challenges the status quo and gracefully breaks racial, gender and social norms. One common thread connects us: our collective values of honest self expression and non-conformity, as well as our respect & appreciation for each other.

Where are some of your favourite places in Berlin? I love Kantstrasse in Charlottenburg, where our office and showroom is located. It’s so culturally diverse – Russians, Persians, Chinese, Germans … And my absolute favourite is Paris Bar. I also love Kreuzberg, it's still the spirit of Berlin to me.

Who are some of your inspirations? My mum and dad, Elsa Klensch from CNN Style and Aaliyah, of course!

What is the best advice you’ve ever been given? I’m a ‘give advice’, not a ‘take advice’ kinda gal.

@mumihaiati @bureauhaiati

COVER STORY

MARC GOEHRING Stylist & Fashion Editor 032c Magazine

Hailing from Bavaria, Marc Goehring is a stylist, editor and consultant with a distinct, directional and irreverent approach to aestheticism – blending the ideals of traditional, luxury fashion with the attitude and exuberance of the social media age. It’s this unique vision that Marc continues to implement in his work as a stylist, and as Fashion Editor for 032c Magazine.

What is your favourite piece of clothing? Right now, an amazing pink vintage Hawaiian shirt that my boyfriend, Mumi [Haiati], got for me in Ibiza (#shoutout best husband).

What’s the best way to spend a day off in Berlin? On the boat with friends, iced tea & cigarettes.

Current favourite song? Not my current, but my all-time favourite: Rammstein – Roter Sand.

@marcgoehring

COVER STORY

MARCO HALBINGER Reference Studios

Munich-born Marco Halbinger moved to Berlin two years ago after founding his own clothing label, Naviiv, and working for Mercedes-Benz, as well as high-fashion concept store Pool in Munich. These days he runs the showroom at Reference Studios and uses his myriad of professional experiences to interact with the international fashion pack.

NADIA KANAAN

Reference Studios

What’s the best thing about what you do? Communicating with people and creating and implementing concepts. And of course, the fashion!

What do you love about Berlin? Coming to Berlin was the best decision of my life. It’s so multifaceted and free. I love waking up here every day.

What is your daily uniform? I like it comfortable and a bit messy. Jogging pants, sneakers and oversized everything. I also love Prada. Just please, no avant-garde!

Nadia Kanaan considers herself a facilitator; connecting people with opportunities, projects and each other. Having lived on three different continents, the Jordanian-born former New Yorker has worked in PR for Adidas alongside gigs writing and coding, until making the move to Berlin to join Reference Studios upon its conception. What is the best thing about working in fashion? The friendships I’ve made are everything! And when all the stars are aligned, it doesn’t even feel like work anymore.

Tell us about the different cities you’ve lived in? I was born in Jordan and grew up in Saudi Arabia, which a lot of people are equally fascinated and confused by. It’s cool though, I can tell people I ride camels and they believe it. I went to college in Montreal – a super-creative city similar to Berlin. Then I did the corporate world in New York, which taught me how to deal with all kinds of situations.

What are your style inspirations? 1990s/2000s, dystopian films, Gwen Stefani and my husband Khaled [Elsayed]!

What’s the best advice you’ve ever been given? Love life and it'll love you back.

Best thing about living in Berlin? Endless nature!

@lem0nadia

What song best describes your life right now? Kodak Black feat. Future – Conscience

Best advice you've ever been given? Nothing comes from nothing.

@marco_halbinger

COVER STORY

SIMON KAISER

Trade Berlin – Reference Studios Armed with wisdom beyond his years, the 22-year-old DJ, producer and all-round wunderkind behind Trade at OHM is making his foray into the fashion world. After visiting his older brother in Berlin at age 15, Simon Kaiser made the bold move from his hometown of Freiburg and has since made it his mission to create fun, safe and inclusive spaces while introducing diverse talent to the city’s nightlife scene. What is Trade? Trade is my bi-monthly party at OHM Berlin that started in September 2015. It's about introducing new artists and different styles of music – not just house and techno.

KATRICE DUSTIN

You’ve recently started working with Reference Studios – what is the most exciting thing about navigating the crosssection between music and fashion? With Reference Studios, I do event coordination and a little PR. The intersection is exciting because the fashion industry has started catching up with the music that people are listening to right now.

Reference Studios

What is the best thing about living in Berlin? I still feel like I can redefine myself whenever I want.

Who are you most excited by in the music world right now? Bill Kouligas, who runs the label PAN. He’s done countless amazing projects.

Favourite summer jam? Merca Luv – Merca Bae

@simonxkaiser @tradeberlin

Joining the Reference Studios team in 2017, this 26-year-old writer by trade is now navigating the world of fashion PR. After forming her roots in the Canadian prairies surrounded by mountains, Katrice Dustin spent the last few years working as a fashion journalist, flitting between London and Vancouver. Nowadays, she calls Berlin her home and has no plans to change that. What do you love most about what you do? Constantly learning, meeting inspiring people and making magic happen. I feel really lucky!

How did you get into fashion? I moved to London at 21, where I spent three years working in fashion and writing freelance. Then I decided I wanted to start writing more creatively, but I still wanted to be part of that world. Now I think I’ve finally found the perfect balance.

Best thing about living in Berlin? Pink sunsets, amazing friends and delicious food every where!

Favourite book? ‘Venus in Furs’ by Leopold von Sacher-Masoch.

What are your style inspirations? Bond girls, Fassbinder films, my mother and Prada everything.

Summer plans? Working hard, having fun, and finishing my book!

Words to live by? Don’t let nobody steal your magic.

@katriceduh

COVER STORY

LARISSA HOFMANN Model

Five years ago, Bavarian-born model Larissa Hofmann was studying art in Berlin before getting scouted and moving to Paris. Since then, the 25-year-old has lived in and travelled to countless cities around the globe, including Sydney, London and New York. Fast-forward to 2017 and, between taking part in shoots for international fashion magazines such as 032c, Vogue and Elle, Larissa can be found at her East London home, enjoying her garden and following her passions through countless art and photography projects. What is the best thing about your job? The people I've met during my travels. I’ve also learned a lot, and really come to know myself.

Can you tell us a bit about what you do outside of modelling? I took a break from modelling last October. After four years of non-stop work without a day off I needed to find balance and make time to do things I want. Since then I’ve taken pictures for AnOther Magazine, worked on a project for Dover Street Market x The National Portrait Gallery, and had a show in Los Angeles with my drawings.

Where are your favourite places you’ve travelled to so far? Iceland, La Digue (Seychelles), Koufonisia (Greece), Berlin, Jamaica and the South of France.

How do you spend your days off? When not working I’m at the park, playing tennis or reading in the sun.

What is your favourite thing about coming to Berlin? MY FRIENDS. MUSIC. FREEDOM.

@larryhofmann

JAN QUAMMIE Fashion Director InStyle Germany

As Fashion Director at Instyle Germany, Munich-based Jan Quammie believes that fashion is a form of art. After working as Senior Buyer for Net-a-Porter in Shanghai, and as Senior Fashion Stylist at MyTheresa.com, this New York-born editor can be found sporting envy-inducing ensembles at fashion week events around the globe, with a playful, colourful style that directly reflects her magnetic personality and enthusiasm for life.

What are your style inspirations? I'm inspired by anything that feels effortless, not trendy.

Best places in the world to shop? Vintage Stores, Dover Street Market and Voo Store in Berlin.

What’s the best way to spend a night off? A nice dinner with loved ones, perhaps a cocktail at my favourite bar, then in bed before midnight.

What’s your favourite thing about coming to Berlin? I like that Berlin seems to be its own little world that just so happens to be in Germany. There's a lot of inspiration here – it feels endless and always feels like home.

What’s your favourite summer song? Frank Ocean – American Wedding

@jan.quammie

COVER STORY

JEN GILPIN

Designer – DSTM Jen Gilpin is the Canadian designer behind luxury lingerie and swimwear brand DSTM (Don’t Shoot The Messenger). With its signature use of luxurious yet eco-friendly fabrics the label has become a well-known name in Berlin’s fashion landscape. When she’s not in her studio (conveniently located behind her shop on Tortrasse) Jen can be found travelling to never-before-seen places and escaping into her imagination for inspiration. Where did you grow up? I was born and raised in Edmonton, Canada to a family of scientists.

How did DSTM come about? After I moved to Berlin in 2008, I made the decision to start a label. I’ve always loved lingerie and so DSTM was born in 2010.

JOHANNES CHRISTIAN SCHÖN

Bocci – Omer Arbel Office

How did you get started in fashion design? At a young age my grandmother introduced me to crafts while my mother taught me how to sew. From then on I’ve never stopped making things.

What is your favourite thing about your job? I love making people happy. It’s a great feeling when someone feels amazing and loves themselves in the clothing I make.

What inspires you the most? Inspiration is everywhere, in everything.

@dstm_

Hailing from Bielefeld, north-west Germany, Johannes Christian Schön has spent the past decade traversing through various positions in the art and design worlds, including working with Victoria Miro in London, KW Institute, Esther Schipper, Maurizio Cattelan and Massimiliano Gioni. He now oversees communications at both the Omer Arbel Office and Canadian luxury design company, Bocci, where he continues to build bridges connecting the world with the international design community. What is the best thing about your job? So many things. Recent projects, like Omer’s installation at London’s Barbican Centre, or our Bocci x Neue House NY collaboration, both gave me the chance to build relationships with inspiring people across the world.

What does your average day look like? My workdays are spontaneous and eventful. I generally avoid routine – it’s the best way to stay curious! Days off consist of trying to catch up on my book pile and walking my Dachshund, Brutus.

What’s your favourite thing about living in Berlin? There are many versions of Berlin that I am interested in. It’s the different pockets of people who shape and define the city.

Favourite restaurant in Berlin? Vietnamese Brasserie Madame Ngo for lunch and Paris Bar for conversation.

If you moved from Berlin, where else would you like to live? New York! It has an energy and vibrancy that makes it like nowhere else in the world.

@johannesschoen

COVER STORY

CHRISTA BÖSCH AND COSIMA GADIENT Designers – Ottolinger

Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient have seen their label, Ottolinger, grow tremendously in the last few years. After showing at fashion week events in New York and Paris, the Swiss design duo have made a name for themselves as creators of aesthetic taste, both in their adopted home of Berlin and within the international fashion community. Through their use of innovative tailoring, deconstructionist techniques and integration of unexpected materials, Christa and Cosima aim to create a world of their own, one that speaks to the current state of fashion with a sharp, yet nonchalant sense of humour.

KHALED ELSAYED

Where did you grow up? Basel and Stein in Switzerland [respectively].

What does your average day look like? Usually, we’ll get up at 7, start work at 9 and leave work at 7. But, in reality, every day is different. That’s what we like about what we do!

What’s the best thing about living in Berlin? There is always something going on but you can still maintain a healthy work routine. Also, Berlin just offers a lot of space – literally and figuratively.

Favourite city in the world? We’ve never been there, but lately we find ourselves dreaming about Seoul. The unseen always seems tempting.

What inspires you the most? Just walking around the city.

@ottolinger1000

After years of music-making and DJing in his native B rooklyn, NYC, Khaled Elsayed – aka Abu Ashley – has settled in B erlin, and finds himself striking a balance between engineering school, dreaming about synthesizers and hosting his monthly show, ‘YALLA!’, on Berlin Community Radio. How did you get started in music? I got sick of iPod parties in college so I learned how to DJ.

How does Berlin compare to somewhere like New York? Berlin is pretty similar to 90s Brooklyn – just instead of a large Black and Latino community it’s got the Arab and Turkish community.

Why did you come to Berlin? Because NYC is dead.

What does your average day look like? I spend my days at the Technical University of Berlin attempting to solve the world’s problems.

What’s something new you have learned being in Berlin? I learned German!

What’s your favourite thing to do on a day off? Hang out with my wife, Nadia [Kanaan], and gossip.

@abu_ashley

COVER STORY

LYRA

Musician Performance Artist

Before moving to Berlin in 2013, musician and performance artist Lyra spent four years studying classical music in upstate New York. These days she can be found performing around Europe, writing new songs, and programming events for Berlinbased creative music software company Ableton. For her, Berlin is the perfect balance between a big city and a small town – offering space to grow but still keeping up with a pace that feels exciting. What do you love most about what you do? Everything I do is connected to my creative passions and sense of community. I feel really lucky to have my life – I don’t take it for granted!

Who are your favourite artists working now? I adore Elysia Crampton – she is such a powerful voice. And Kendrick Lamar's latest album is amazing. In visual art, I think my friend Donna Huanca is doing monumental, beautiful work.

What is the best thing about Berlin? In Berlin, I gained access to self-expression that I never expected to find in my 20s. This ability to redefine who you can be and what society can be is just incredible.

Where do you go to gain creative inspiration? My home has always been a sanctuary for discovery. I also enjoy spending time at parks and forests around the city.

What is your current favourite song? Migos — Kelly Price.

@lyra____

COVER STORY

CELIA SOLF

Creative Consultant The Store @ Soho House Berlin Celia Solf has lived in countless cities around the world, including New York, Montreal, Cape Town and Paris. With a dynamic background in art, styling and buying, Celia now heads up creative consulting at The Store, Soho House Berlin. How did you start working for The Store? I landed in Berlin in 2008, where I worked for a gallery, then managed some stores and brands. I started to consult in 2014 when the owner of the Vinyl Factory, who also owns the Soho House building in Berlin, contacted me to support their new project, The Store.

ROBERT GRUNENBERG Art Historian

What does your average day look like? Working, looking at art, seeing my great friends and laughing in order to stay happy & healthy.

What is the best thing about what you do? I’m always surrounded by creative people in fashion, design, art, music and more. It’s never boring – I’m thankful for that!

Where is your favourite place to escape to for a weekend? The countryside, I love nature. I also love Tbilisi and the Georgian mountains around the city.

Favourite piece of artwork? So many. The latest I bought are three artworks from a series of 171 from ‘Rituale Des Verschwindens’ (‘Rituals Of Disappearing’) which have been on show in the entrance hall in Berghain since 2004.

Best thing about living in Berlin? When I first came to Berlin I wasn’t sure how long I would stay, but now I love it so much. A lot has happened since then! One day I’d love to write about it all.

@celiasolf

With an impressive CV that counts many lucrative roles in the art world, including with MoMA PS1 in New York and as Art Editor for acclaimed publications L’Officiel and Numéro, Frankfurt-born art historian Robert Grunenberg has made his home in Berlin. Throughout his career, this published author, former model and all-round polymath has worked with the likes of Jeff Koons, Juergen Teller and Hans Ulrich Obrist and has published projects for 032c and SSENSE. While travelling the globe and revelling in the power of knowledge, Robert remains grounded and believes that the true spirit of Berlin can still be found on the dance floor. Who is your favourite artist these days? I’m currently trying to see as much artwork as possible by Belgian artist Marcel Broodthaers. He was a true poet, yet he shows a strongly conceptualised way of thinking.

What makes Berlin a great place to be? Berlin is the only metropolis in Europe that feels like a utopia. It attracts people who still believe in changing the world, but most people don’t know how to, so everyone experiments and that’s when magic happens. Berlin is for dreamers.

What do you love most about what you do? I like to meet people. Listening to other people and watching other people’s artwork has a transformative power. If you meet people from whom you can learn something, never let them go!

Best place to escape to? Frankfurt, my hometown.

Best advice? Listen to Tocotronics love song, ‘Rebel Boy’.

What’s next? I’m working on an exhibition about palm trees in contemporary art and a long term art project that will begin in 2018. Be surprised.

@robert_grunenberg

COVER STORY

LAWRENCE LEE DJ

MAXIME BALLESTEROS Photographer

Maxime Ballesteros’s photography style has become instantly recognisable – and for good reason. After arriving in Berlin in 2007 with a handful of items in the back of his car, the French photographer has been successfully blurring the line between the honestly candid and the undeniably sexy ever since, all the while evoking an incomparable sense of sophistication within the people and places he captures. What made you want to become a photographer? I never wanted to become a photographer, or realised it. I was taking photos all the time but I didn’t know I could make a living from it. Then one day a friend paid me 20 Euros to take a few images for an article she was writing for a fashion site, and that was it.

What does your average day look like? Shooting, selecting images, emailing, biking, travelling, trying to comb my hair straight.

Best part of your job? Meeting people through the lens and in real life.

Best thing about living in Berlin?

DJ and producer Lawrence Lee started out by learning the ropes from New York’s DJ crowd, soaking up as much as he could before graduating by spinning hip hop and techno in the city’s underground clubs. It was when he met his best friend, Khaled Elsayed, that the duo began throwing parties together. After relocating to Berlin this January, Lawrence continues to make the music people want to hear, in bet ween days off gardening, wandering his neighbourhood for endless inspiration, and browsing for hard-to-find records at Hardwax. Where did you live before Berlin? I grew up in the New Jersey suburbs. At 18 I moved to the Bronx for school, then later to Manhattan where I lived uptown, downtown, all around.

What’s the best thing about living here? A lot of things – but most of all the freedom that people allow themselves and others.

What was your best party experience in Berlin so far? I think being at Homopatik on one of my first trips to Berlin stands out as something important.

Most New York spot in Berlin? Old dingy bar in Prenzlauer – 8mm.

Favourite summer jam? Young Hearts Run Free – Candi Staton

@lawrenceleeofc

Berlin attracts a lot of really interesting people. Everybody comes with their own unique energy and background. People are allowed to show themselves as they are, if they are ready to do so.

Who is your favourite photographer? William Klein.

Words to live by? Don't treat others in a way you wouldn’t like to be treated. Even though I’m an atheist.

@maximeballesteros

For years, there has been plenty of talk of how Berlin’s Wedding district is, alongside hip Neukölln, the city’s next trendy hotspot. Now aptm, a 230 m 2 loft located at No. 18 Lindower Strasse and due to open in September, looks set to help bring the prophecy to life. “Because ‘traditional’ retail is passé, the global customer requires a unique environment and a trusted custodian to show them the lesser seen,” Glass explains. The concept is that anything that can be moved can either be purchased or experienced. Glass, European Membership Director at Soho House Berlin, came up with the idea of creating a live-in location that can be a venue for meetings, parties or film shoots, as well as

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a place to eat and sleep, after more and more guests started asking, "Where is this from?" or "Where can I buy it?" Hailing from America, Glass has a healthy wanderlust and shares his time between Berlin, Amsterdam, Istanbul, Barcelona and Mumbai. It thus seemed obvious to create a place to bring all these experiences and inspiration together. Glass’s carefully compiled range is also regularly updated. aptm will once again prove that, by creating a perfectly conceived physical store, it is possible to preserve real-life retail experiences in the face of the continued rise of online shopping. Touch, feel, smell, taste – there is no computer screen in existence that can convey the full sensory experience. Not yet, at least. And until that day comes, we should celebrate unique shopping experiences and look forward to discovering this melting pot of cultures that is ideally suited to a city such as Berlin.

www.aptm.berlin

by JANINE DUDENHÖFFER

“Imagine: a friend, well travelled and with superb taste, gives you the keys to their wellappointed place and says, ‘Make yourself at home!’” That’s Chris Glass’s philosophy for his new concept apartment aptm. Imagine this friend opening their door to the public, inviting them to come and buy everything within or to be inspired; to meet interesting people and have fun. That’s what we call the perfect retail experience.

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Bocci 79

Omer Arbel turns light into delight

A new species has landed in Berlin. Its new home is a vacant building constructed in 1896. Light beings from a faraway galaxy known as Vancouver have reclaimed the site’s cathedral-esque staircase and several floors of abandoned rooms. Upon entering this futuristic world, visitors will be overwhelmed by the poetry of the space and the creatures they encounter. They come in peace and bring you light – and they possess an otherworldly beauty.

incarnation’s name still stand proud above the entrance today – well, at least in part. That’s because five of the original letters have been removed and rearranged a few centi metres higher. They now read ‘BOCCI’. It is an act laden with symbolism. A lone ‘T’ from ‘Charlottenburg’ has been transformed into an ‘I’, demonstrating that something new can be created by modifying something old; removing these letters does not render the words illegible.

At No. 79 Kantstrasse in Berlin’s Charlotten burg district, Vancouver- based Canadian design brand Bocci has transformed a disused 2,200 m 2 historic courthouse into a stun ning studio-meets-showroom. Until 1933, the 44-room building was home to the crimi nal division of the Charlottenburg district court, complete with a detention block in the courtyard for prisoners awaiting trial. Under the Nazi regime, it was both the State Insti tute for Food, Pharmaceutical and Forensic Chemistry and a Gestapo prison before fi nally becoming Charlottenburg’s land registry office. Metallic letters spelling out the latter

Since the local authorities moved out in 2010, the old building has stood empty. The prison block sometimes served as a location for film productions: a few scenes from ‘The Reader’ starring Kate Winslet were filmed here. Bocci founder and Creative Director Omer Arbel happened upon the building by chance, h aving rented out a space next door. Back then, his landlord was planning to convert the cells in the courtyard into a boutique hotel and was trying to find a tenant for the front building. A trained architect, Arbel was instantly bowled over. “We had to make a decision about it very quickly, and it’s a strange story, but we fell in love with it ob

by LENA BROMBACHER

25 viously, immediately. It is way more space than we could ever need or require. It’s so big, such a huge building. And that became attractive because shockingly, in Berlin, there are these buildings just sitting here. Which is actually a story that is impossible anywhere else right now.” Since being converted, the building can now be seen in a whole new light – quite literally. Light installations featuring Bocci's unique combina tion of glass, porcelain and metal, the result of a decade's worth of creative endeavour, run along the whole building. Arbel’s designs for Bocci are showcased together with his sculpted pieces and architectural designs, thus presenting the whole gamut of his creative work. Although many of Arbel’s works have already featured in contem porary galleries, and this space certainly gives the impression of an art exhibition, here the pieces’ consecutive numbers – for example, No. 57.0, a horizontal system of pendants compris ing glass and metal – don’t correspond to their position. The common thread running through all these artefacts is the artist’s fascination with the intrinsic mechanical, physical and chemical qualities of materials, as well as his philosophy on how we experience space. “I always believe that we need visual, auditory or tactile cues from parts of a space that we can’t occupy with our bodies in order to truly perceive it,” the Creative Director explains. For Arbel, the Berlin branch of Bocci 79 is an archive, a studio, a laboratory, a production site and a gateway to a new world. It is where he tests new techniques and technologies for future artefacts and a place where the public are invited to experience first-hand how new ideas are brought to life in his i n-house work shop. It’s more about offering a ‘behind-thescenes’ glimpse than boosting sales figures: here the guiding principle is the creative process itself, as well as the search for inspira tion. “Our building in Berlin is much older than our city here! So there’s just a complexity of what that means culturally. To be able to toggle back and forth between a new and old world environment is amazing. They’re such different cities, they’re so, so different. Ber lin is so open, and there's a kind of ‘fuck you’ attitude, but a friendly ‘fuck you’ attitude. And there is a greater appreciation for the arts on a mass cultural level, which I find amazingly receptive to our work.” The coming years will see Bocci 79 become even more refined, just like a cabinet of c uriosities. Its first new installation will be unveiled in No vember.

www.bocci.ca/79

MISSION STREET WEAR JOIN THE GANG

Anita Tillmann, PREMIUM GROUP Managing Partner, interviews the CEO and publisher of Highsnobiety, David Fischer

INTERVIEW

Anita Tillmann: How do you define streetwear? David Fischer: Streetwear is so multifaceted. That’s why it’s so hard to sum it up in just a few words. But I myself define it as a development in the field of fashion that has emerged from subcult ures within the worlds of music, skateboarding, art, etc.

What does wearing streetwear mean to you? Wearing streetwear has been the norm for me for as long as I can remember. It doesn’t really carry any special meaning. The appreciation that I have had for fashion for several years has now become mainstream, but I don’t really consider it a big deal.

Has the essence of streetwear changed? When you think back to what you were wearing in the 90s and look at yourself now, do you see a difference? Ultimately, things always move in cycles. What I wore in the 90s is now making a comeback. First, it was iconic sportswear brands such as Fila, Kappa and D iadora, and now we’re seeing a resurgence in some workwear styles, e.g. from Dickies and others. Is it exactly the same as it was in the 90s? No. But today’s emerging fashion scene is mainly based on reinterpretations of past styles. It’s the mix of several different looks that makes it unique and exciting: the breaking down of barriers that once existed but have today disappeared.

Some talk of the rise of the fifth streetwear wave. Others say, “Don’t call it a comeback.” (Aria Hughes, WWD.) What role does streetwear currently play?

sibilities, which give the scene a whole new level of excitement.

What are brands such as Supreme and Vetements doing right? They generate interest in an item as well as a sense of community for their fans. When you buy these brands, you feel like you are part of the Supreme or the Vetements community, which makes you feel incredibly strong.

How do established brands such as Adidas or Nike serve the mass market whilst still continuously managing to create hype in niche areas, i.e. without damaging their image as being ‘cool’? They segment the market and supply various markets with different products. They know exactly which stores will reach which communities and which designer collaborations provide access to key groups. For companies like Nike and Adidas, this is nothing new, but for the fashion world in general, this idea has only gained purchase relatively recently.

Who are your streetwear superheroes?

“I COULDN’T IMAGINE THE FASHION INDUSTRY WITHOUT STREETWEAR.”

Streetwear is omnipresent. Streetwear staples such as hoodies, graphic T-shirts and sneakers feature regularly in every high fashion collection. I certainly wouldn’t refer to it as a trend; I couldn’t imagine the fashion industry without streetwear.

As global platforms for inspiration, how have the internet and social media – particularly Instagram – changed streetwear and street culture? Is it still possible to be ‘underground’ in this day and age? Of course, nowadays trends proliferate at an extremely fast pace. There are practically no local trends or subcultures anymore, and when there are, they don’t last long. It’s perhaps a bit of a shame as before it was exciting to discover these movements in various countries and cities. But at the same time, we are now able to constantly find new inspiration from around the world and we also have universal access to everything. This opens up brand new opportunities and pos-

James Jebbia, Hiroshi Fujiwara, Nigo and Shawn Stussy have paved the way for today’s market. It may seem as though everything came about very quickly, but Supreme and Bape began way back in the early 90s. Highsnobiety has been celebrating streetwear for the last 12 years and the market has only recently grown to a significant size. It didn’t happen overnight!

What do you think will be the next big thing in streetwear?

I’m a firm believer in open source and modular fashion. In future, I think the end-consumer will be able to have more influence on products than they do today; be able to tailor them the way they want but within parameters set by the brand and other partners. The new consumer wants something of their own; something similar to what their friends are wearing, but that offers something unique.

How much will streetwear retail change in the future? What should buyers expect? As a consumer, I like to be constantly surprised and confronted with new things. That is why I am also a big fan of the ‘drop’ model used by brands like Supreme, as well as some Japanese names. Releasing products weekly, instead of just once or twice during a season, allows retailers to be in permanent dialogue with consumers. Online sales are completely dominating, which is why retailers’ communication strategies are also so important. They have to make sure they set themselves apart from the competition on social media. If you’re a buyer, you need to find specific themes to use to create an element of surprise.

www.highsnobiety.com

FASHION

THE HUNT IS OVER by CHRIS DANFORTH

STREETWEAR IN TIMES OF SOCIAL MEDIA

FASHION

As much as the world of streetwear and sneakers has been enveloped in what we consider mainstream tastes, one big aspect of the culture today has been stripped away: the hunt. Years before social media, sneakerheads lived, breathed and grew thanks to their own special form of community. Information was not as readily available as today, and no single term was used to describe the early mix of graffiti, skateboarding and music subcultures that were the foundation for what we now somewhat lazily describe as ‘streetwear’. First movers scanned through the latest Air Jordans in mail-order catalogues and relied on word-of-mouth to find out about new drops. These were the initial taste makers, who prided themselves on an individual style that was bred in the streets. Over the years, brands couldn’t help but take notice of these dedicated consumers, and social media has accelerated the growth of this formerly niche interest. Products and experiences were once reserved for a small circle of people ‘in the know’, but as the years have gone on, the scarce availability of select sneakers, apparel and limited items has made them covetable for outsiders looking in. As a result, the circle has grown. While some labels have increased production to keep up with global demand, others have remained staunchly aware of their roots, refusing to ‘sell out’ by growing too quickly. If The Hundreds, LRG, Alife and similar brands of the era brought forward the first s alvo of streetwear, a second wave is being led in 2017 by newcomers like Brain Dead, M idnight S tudios, Noah and others, who are uniting different ideologies that come from graphic design, punk rock and even nautical cues under one cohesive umbrella that is drawn from diverse references. These brands are sprouting from the already established idea of what streetwear is and how it has developed into a major buzzword for younger consumers over the past two or three decades. Other labels like Anti Social Social Club, Nasa seasons and Cactus Plant Flea Market have utilised social media – particularly Instagram – to its fullest by way of strong product placement and high-level celebrity co-signs, rapidly

gaining popularity in ways that streetwear brands havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t typically in the past. All in all, the importance of social media for any footwear, clothing or accessory brand these days cannot be overlooked, but communities on apps like Instagram and Twitter also foster a tribe mentality where true individuality is less important than dressing the part by wearing the biggest streetwear signifiers like Supreme and Palace Skateboards. For smaller entities, a social media presence gets the ball rolling, while direct-to-consumer e-commerce maximises profits and enhances the feeling of exclusivity for consumers. Generally speaking, brands that take risks, challenge conventions and champion new aesthetics stand a better chance of lasting in the market than a label that jumps on existing trends and bows to the status quo. Longstanding brands like Adidas, Nike and Vans have always had their own place within the landscape, but are also engaging streetwear culture through limited drops and targeted collaborations with other brands and retailers, therefore continually pushing forward and securing their respective places within the general fashion ecosystem. These limited products also lend clout to mainline releases, so while Adidas Originals Yeezy Boosts may release in only several thousand pairs, the appeal and demand for Adidas trickles down to general drops like the Gazelle or Superstar. Brands also cultivate higher interest with premium divisions like Adidas Consortium, NikeLab and Vans Vault, which deliver exclusive releases and collaborations under a different banner. Today, consumers are inundated with choices and information, and it only takes a thumb scroll to discover a dozen new brands being promoted by Instagram influencers. The hunt is over and, in turn, the competition is more serious than ever.

#BEAUTIFUL #DIVERSITY #TRENDSHOW

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OTTOLINGER COUTURE GOES CHAOS

PORTRAIT

by BARBARA STUMMER / ROOM 26

Skirts with frayed seams, suits with holes burnt into the fabric and asymmetric dresses that make you wonder whether Edward got his scissorhands on them: up-and-coming Berlin label Ottolinger eschews standard patterns and usual looks. Its blend of streetstyle, punk and couture is not only mixing things up on the city’s fashion scene – it’s also causing a stir globally.

Ottolinger’s two designers, Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient, have a clear objective in mind: to reinterpret couture by realising designs with exquisite materials handcrafted to perfection. The result? A vexingly modern look that fundamentally challenges the perception of beauty. Both hailing from Switzerland, the pair met while studying fashion in Basel where they realised that they shared not just a love for the avant-garde, but also a similar sense of humour. ‘Ottolinger’ was written on the doorbell of the apartment next door to their first design studio and soon went from a running joke to their joint moniker. When it comes to their creations, the two designers also find inspiration in equally unusual places; random impressions, unique experiences or fascinating works of art – it all shapes their collective work. Whether it’s roughly sewn trousers, cut-up mesh dresses or deconstructed tops, their designs are wild, bursting with friction and confident coolness. It’s little surprise that the duo are already being lauded for their debut collection. When Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient were showcased as promising newcomers at the 2016 VFiles shows in New York, they not only caught the eye of influential fashion platform MADE but of rapper Kanye West, who immediately hired the designers for his Yeezy label’s womenswear line. Their star firmly in the ascendency, the pair now split their time between Berlin and Los Angeles whilst working on several collections simultaneously: the dream start to any career.

www.ottolinger.com

FASHION + TECH

by TILL SCHRÃ&#x2013;DER

TH E NEXT LE V E L Listen! Learn! Experience!

Fashion and technology have always existed in symbiosis. Ever since he took hold of a needle and thread, man has relied on technology for his garments. But today fashion goes much further, with the frenzied adoption of external innovations. True to fashion’s age-old tradition of breaking new ground, the leap from weaving looms to smart textiles seems almost tiny. Digital is taking over from analogue across every level, and at increasing speed. Now a product can often go from prototype to market ready in a matter of weeks. Modern-day nail varnish was a by-product of the car industry, LEDs were accidentally discovered by radio researchers and Velcro® was the result of an engineer taking his dog on long walks in the woods.

But that was only the start. Textile fibres made from orange peel or fashion made from recycled plastic waste from the world’s oceans are what’s next. The trends currently taking shape in fashion collections appear to transcend pure aesthetics. Even now, there are doctors at some first-aid posts working with connected vests that allow them to treat and communicate simultaneously. This new passion for inventing is also opening up undreamt-of possibilities for very different fields, such as health monitoring that uses textiles or smart work clothes that reduce risk. Nike’s first model to feature sensor-controlled, self-tying laces is set to be rolled out soon. Google is producing conductive fabric for connected

The step change in material development, to which this new sector has dedicated plenty of time and energy, has most notably been accompanied by wearables, together with new sales technologies, i.e. the ‘smart retail’ experience, such as apps that use facial recognition and the linking up of online and offline logistics using RFID. Artificial reality is now used to assist buyers, along with interactive price tags and music systems that independently change tracks depending on the weather and number of customers. Webcams are used to adapt sales assistant numbers to the volume of customer traffic. Sales parameter data are analysed – the previously unknown is b eing discovered. The potential is there but it is still at a very early stage. However, progress is rapid and promising.

The PREMIUM GROUP’s #FASHIONTECH conference explores the latest developments. In keeping with its ‘Listen, Learn, Experience’ motto, it will feature keynote speakers, such as David Fischer (Highsnobiety), Sharmadean Reid (Wah Nails), Antje Hundhausen (Deutsche Telekom), Hywel Davies (Central Saint Martins) and Niclas Rohrwacher (CEO and founder of Berlin start-up campus Factory Berlin) who will share their views on the digital future of the fashion industry. Cloudy Zakrocki and Nora Beckershaus (Refinery29 Germany), Jonas Thaysen (Facebook) and Dr. Marc Schumacher (Liganova The Brand Retail C ompany), along with presentations by Zalando, Sleek Magazine and Messe Frankfurt, complete the programme. The #exhibition features wearable labels such as Jasna Rok and ElektroCouture, who will be showcasing trailblazing collections. A mix of keynote speeches, exhibitions, start-up pitches and masterclasses take visitors on a journey from the micro to the macro of fashion’s digital transformation – one that is no longer driven by questions of ‘if’, but ‘how’. Questions that designers and businesses are approaching with tremendous zeal – and their passion has found the perfect platform in the shape of #FASHIONTECH, now into its sixth edition.

www.fashiontech.berlin

#FASHIONTECH BERLIN CONFERENCE & EXHIBITION 5 July 2017 10 am–6 pm KÜHLHAUS Luckenwalder Strasse 3 Kreuzberg Free access with your PREMIUM GROUP badge – no pre-registration needed!

jackets in cooperation with Levi’s. Karl L agerfeld is experimenting with 3D-printed footwear. Amy Winters is working with holographic leather that reacts to sound, whilst Anouk Wipprecht is creating sensory clothes that process physical and emotional stimuli. We’ve become familiar with smartphone-charging solar cells on bags and garments. Clothing is evolving into an interactive user interface; an aesthetic, multi-sensory experience; an intelligent appendage. The digital world’s next step will see individuality taken to a whole other level.

THE CONFERENCE ON THE FUTURE OF FASHION 5 JULY, 2017 – KÜHLHAUS STATION-BERLIN

PRESENTED BY OLE TILLMANN

10: 30

ANITA TILLMANN (MANAGING PARTNER, PREMIUM GROUP) OLE TILLMANN (FOUNDER & CEO, PEAK CREATIVE LEADERSHIP) WELCOME