September 2010

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2010 Vol. 16 No. 9

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Motorcycle TourMagazine

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SEPTEMBER

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F E AT U R E S

M O N T H LY C O L U M N S FREE WHEELIN’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 WHATCHATHINKIN’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

2010 RAMAPO 500 RECAP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 ETERNAL RIDING - EXPLORING THE ALLEGHENIES. . . . . . . . . . . . 26 DECKER CHAPEL - THE SMALLEST CHURCH IN AMERICA . . . . . 33 BACKROADS’ MYSTERY RUN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

ON THE MARK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

GETTING SUSPENDED. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

BACKLASH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

COLUMN RIP & RIDE ROUTE SHEETS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56

BIG CITY GETAWAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

THE PEAK EXPERIENCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57

WE’RE OUTTA HERE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 INDUSTRY INFOBITES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

MUSCLING UP BMW’S G650GS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62

MOTORCYCLE REVIEWS APRILIA RSV4 R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

PRODUCT REVIEWS NOLAN N-43 TRILOGY HELMET . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 MUSTANG LUGGAGE AND SADDLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

GARMIN ZUMO 665 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil ~ Publishers Contributors Jeff Bahr, Mark Byers, Ron Dedrick, Bill Heald, Tony Lisanti, Lance Oliver, Tim Wineland, Dr. Seymour O’Life Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

BACKROADS • POB 317, Branchville NJ 07826 Phone 973.948.4176 • Fax 973.948.0823 • email editor@backroadsusa.com • web www.backroadsusa.com For Advertising Sales Information: 973-948-4176

BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2010. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.



SEPTEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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FREE WHEELIN’ Brian Rathjen

PERCEPTIONS

They say life is what you perceive it to be. If you think good things all the time chances are good things will come your way. If you are a Negative Nancy or Sad Cy the odds are that life will always be a struggle. What we think is who we are. This can be and is a great thing - most times. But, other times, when we let others dictate who and what we are, we can lose ourselves in somebody else version of reality. What does this ethereal psycho-babble have to do with motorcycle and riding? Plenty. I recently read an article on different riders describing them as one of two types - Enthusiasts or Hedonists. I think there is a huge gray area in between. But the thought here was Enthusiasts take their riding very seriously, wear proper gear and constantly strive to improve their riding skills. Hedonists simply like to ride and don’t put much more into it than fuel and enjoying the sensations they feel while riding. Like I said - there are many riders who fall somewhere in between. Still it’s all how we perceive ourselves. We recently did a survey on our Facebook page asking what riders wore for their day-to-day gear. Overwhelmingly most riders claimed good helmet, jackets, gloves, boots, etc... Some going as far to pledge allegiance to the idea of ‘ATTGAT’ All the Gear All the Time. Others, a very small number, proudly claimed all they wanted or needed was a t-shirt and a half helmet. It’s a free country, sort of, so they can wear whatever they like. It’s their ride and their perception of what a great ride

is. I’ll take the real gear every day. We recently were out in California and were at a restaurant in Baker jewel that it is. There were a number of cruiser riders wearing the standard American cruiser rider’s gear - half-helmets, fingerless gloves and tank tops. But this is where it got almost comical. Before leaving one big bruiser of a guy tells his posse to hold on just a minute till he got on his protection. Jacket? Maybe a vest or even a long sleeved shirt? Nope. Sunscreen. Can’t risk a sunburn and possible skin cancer while riding. Nope, you have to use your intellect and lather on some heavy-duty SPF for real protection. Sorry, I am still chuckling at this. Perception at work. Here is another example of how perception can control our lives and decision making. At this year’s NYC Motorcycle Show I had an old friend stop by our booth. I worked with the guy, in the motorcycle industry, for years and he was one of the first friends I ever rode with back in the day. A superb rider and racer, he was always on the cutting edge of machines and gear back then. This day he showed up at the show on his Harley. It being winter he had on a heavy leather jacket, but his helmet had me wondering. It was an ancient 3/4 Bell. I asked him about this relic and he stated that, “he had to wear this, as he was riding a Harley and on Long Island and New York you just cannot wear a full-face helmet and be on a Harley.” He said he’d get laughed off the street. My body shook with disbelief. This was a man who absolutely knew what real riding gear was, but his perception of other’s perceptions was forcing him to make a stupid decision. I tried to walk him down to the Nolan booth, but he would have no part of it. My last rant on Perceptions is an old one - the belief that “Loud Pipes Save Lives.” This perception dominates many - mostly from the Hedonistic crowd of riders - umm sorry, you’re bikers, right? (Continued on Page 10)


BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2010

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SEPTEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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W H ATC H AT H I N K I N ’ SHIRA KAMIL

SHUT UP AND DRIVE Okay, I know that I’ve ranted on this topic so many times before, but I’ve really come to the end of my patience. But let me digress just a bit first. As most folks living in New Jersey know by now, as of August 1, 2010, motorcycles will no longer have to be inspected. Here is the exact verbage from the State of New Jersey Motor Vehicle Commission website: Motorcycle self-inspection Effective August 1, 2010, motorcycles are no longer required to submit for an inspection in New Jersey and display registration decals. Registration decals will no longer be issued. Decals may be removed from license plates. Riders should keep in mind that it is their responsibility to make sure their motorcycles are free from mechanical defects and are operating properly. Law enforcement may still cite a cyclist for equipment out of compliance or failure to make repairs. Well, I’m not really sure how I feel about this. Sure, less time spent at Motor Vehicles is always a good thing and all riders should do their own safety inspections on their motorcycles before riding. It just seems to me that this opens up all sorts of ‘gray areas’ regarding ‘citing for equipment out of compliance’ and such. In my past experience, the folks at Motor Vehicle inspection didn’t really know too much about the motorcycles that they were inspecting, but were just going by the ‘rule of state.’ Case in point - bringing in my bike, I was routinely failed (actually, only happened once) due to ‘too many lights’. Well, EXCUSE ME for trying to make myself more visible to the idiots on the road. This being said, who’s to say what the law officers will know any more. Will this just open the door to their being able to pull over motorcycles for random inspection and cite them unjustly? And what about taking your bike to another state that doesn’t recognize the removal of said sticker. Good luck convincing the officer asking for your ‘papers’ that your state doesn’t require it. Seems to me to be just another way New Jersey will add to their coffer thanks to we motorcyclists. They’ve already taken money that should have gone to rider safety programs raised by increased motorcycle registration fees (I want my damn sticker or my 21 bucks back!). How much more are they going to suck us dry before we raise a stink? And now, back to my original thought - shut up and drive. Back in 2004, New Jersey enacted the handsfree law, which was amended in 2007 to be a primary enforcement violation. This calls for a $100 fine for using a hand-held phone while driving. This fine also applies to texting while driving. According to NewJerseyNewsroom.com, since 2008 there have been 3,610 crashes involving motorists using hand-held phones, resulting in 1,548 injuries and 13 deaths. During this same period, 3,129 crashes involving the use of a hands-free device resulting in 1,495 injuries and 6 fatalies, according to the state Division of Highway Traffic Safety. Seems to me, with such a law on the books, perhaps the local police and state troopers should enforce this more stringently, thus adding lots of bucks to the state’s revenue, rather than pass additional laws and reduce services while raising fees for motorcycle-related amenities. Not only would this add to the depleted budget, but it would get those meatballs talking/texting while driving off the road, or at least take away from their gas money. While on our 15th Anniversary rally in North Carolina, Brian and I witnessed several accidents that had to have taken place due to one, or more, drivers talking/texting. Two of them had the exact scenarios - one car was making a left into the far right lane with the other car making a right into the closest lane. Both cars making the left were aiming for a fast food restaurant. The folks standing next to the vehicles that looked like the offenders were under 25. You don’t have to be a Sherlock Holmes to figure out what had happened. And you don’t have to be a young driver for this to apply. I’ve seen more than enough supposedly responsible adults guilty of this offense. And, yes, plenty of law enforcement officers as well. Still another accident featuring drivers talking/texting happened to one of our rally-goers. One couple, heading out on a day ride from Fontana, were pulled over on the side of the road, looking at maps, when the woman on the motorcycle was hit by a car and dragged some distance, breaking her tibia and dislocating her foot. Not only was the driver on the cell phone, she accused her of causing the accident. The local police who showed up at the scene said they had a witness corroborating this statement. Can anyone say My Cousin Vinny? I don’t know about you, but I’ve taken to making hand motions to folks I see talking/texting while driving. Not the single-fingered salute, but the hang-up-the-phone one. If nothing else, it will draw their attention to me, thus hoping that they don’t run into me. PLEASE - if you see someone driving and texting/talking make the effort to get them to put the phone down and SHUT UP AND DRIVE.



SEPTEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BILL HEALD

THE YEAR SO FAR

We have now reached a point where I can confidently state the following: the year is halfway over. This may seem a bit late to say that, obviously, but what I’m referring to is in fact the first half of 2010 in terms of street motorcycle sales. Now that we have some numbers to look at, we can perhaps speculate on how the industry may be doing as a whole. Overall, things are kind of rough but there are pockets of hope. As important as overall sales are, though, I’m more curious as to what types of bikes are the most popular because it’s sort of an indicator where things may be heading in the future. For example, before the sales of cruisers exploded a couple of decades ago there was a trickle that got consistently stronger and then things really took off, with more and more manufacturers producing more and more cruisers. Now we have an amazing assortment of cruisers on the market that includes sub-genres like touring cruisers and even performance versions (like the Star V-Max and Harley V-Rod). Speaking of Star, it’s because of this popularity of the laid-back riding style that Yamaha created this separate cruiser division in the first place. Suzuki is almost doing the same thing with the Boulevard line of bikes, and Victory is doing quite well,

thank you, with a full line of cruisers. Blimey, even Triumph has a number of very successful cruiseresque offerings (including the Rocket III MegaMotoCruiseBeastie). So, what’s hot these days? I mentioned before there are some numbers to look at, but unfortunately you and I don’t get to see them. Ty Van Hooydonk at the Motorcycle Industry Council explains: “OEs can choose to reveal what they want. It can depend on whether they are publicly traded, so if you buy a share of H-D stock, you’ll get an annual report. It’s completely up to them what they want to do at any given time.” That said, I did get some general trend info from a few manufacturers, as well as a broad-brush view of the industry from Ty where he has access to some of the numbers. First off, 71% of the motorized two-wheelers sold in 2010 have been street-legal types, and of these 5.6 % are scooters and 5.5 % are dual-sport. From what I can tell, cruisers are still ruling the roost although standards and sport bikes are making small dents in this dominance. Triumph’s Monika Boutwell tells me their best sellers have been the Bonneville line, followed by the new Thunderbird and then the Daytona 675 sport bike (I predict a spike in Street Triple R sales, after moviegoers see Angelina Jolie evade several law enforcement agencies on one in “Salt”). Yamaha’s Kevin Foley was very candid about the sales situation facing the industry: “As you know times still are very tough. Due to current economic conditions, industry growth is -19% over last season and 2009 was roughly 60% of 2008.” He also reports a bright spot in the Star line is the Raider, which is tops in its category, and Supersport bikes are holding their own despite huge discounts offered from the competition. BMW’s Roy Oliemuller reports that, “Right off the bat I can tell you the S 1000 RR has shown great sales success with its retail launch earlier this year. Then, the traditional models of the R 1200 RT and the GS series bikes also have been strong.” Paul James over at Harley-Davidson says that, “The new Forty-Eight and Iron 883 continue to sell very well with the Forty-Eight being the quickest turning bike in our lineup at the moment. The Dyna Wide Glide has been a hit, as well as the Fat Boy Lo.” But what he said next is a key point: “The Street Glide is a perennial best seller leading across all segments, and custom baggers in general are very hot.” Custom baggers, eh? We’re of course talking about cruisers that are ready to tour right out of the crate. As mentioned, BMW’s RTs are doing well too, as they (like the GS line) are lovers of the long road. Ducati’s new Multistrada (despite its lofty price) is also a great choice for taking an epic journey. Is this popularity of a mount that is a true road warrior a trend, then? Victory’s Robert Pandya offers this observation: “In the past 3 years our business has significantly shifted. After introducing the Vision we cemented our spot in the touring world - but the 2010 Cross Country is by far our best selling and hottest model. The Touring class (Cross Country, Cross Roads and Visions) represent over half of our sales now.” Despite overall sales taking a beating, I find it fantastic that touring bikes of every stripe are quite popular. Riders of these machines tend to, literally, be into motorcycling for the long haul. My prognosis? We’ll get through this rough patch, and emerge stronger than ever.


BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2010

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Sev ent Ann eent ual! h

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SEPTEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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ON THE MARK MARK BYERS

FAVORITES

Guys have favorites and I’m no exception: I’ll take a shirt, usually with a motorcycle logo, wear it until I can read through it, and still feel bad when it goes to the rag bin. I’ll grab it to wax a bike and spend a few moments in a nostalgic haze, thinking of all the good times we had together. I have the same connection to my bikes, but with them, it’s harder to pick a favorite. Unlike a shirt, each moto fits me in a slightly different way. I like my SV if I’m taking an evening ride with the Usual Suspects and we’ll be twisting wrists on twisty roads. If I’m commuting to work without dragging a bunch of stuff along, she’s also a treat. Ahhh, but if there’s a fair distance between home and the curves, the low bars and the high pegs mean I’ll need orthopedic assistance to enjoy the next day. If I have a load of junk to drag to or from the office, the SV’s inferior to one of the big German girls. Speaking of big Deutsch fraus, if I’m going on a long ride carrying the missus and gear, I love the RT. A couple years ago, she helped us crush 3,600 miles over two weeks while cosseted in her ample bosom. She’ll carry all I need for work and still have room for a stop at the store on the way home. But, even though she acquits herself better than you think on a track, the RT wouldn’t be my weapon of choice for a track day or local backroad blast. Plus, it’d be lunacy to take her where dual-sports go. Dual-sport bikes are as much fun as you can have whilst still wearing all that protective gear! They’ll slay a fire road or even some gnarly singletrack with relative ease and still let you get to and from the affair in a (mostly) street-legal fashion with no trailer. They’re a hoot for a commute. Unfortunately, I get shooting pains up my back just thinking of what it would be like to knock out a long trip on the rock that is the seat of the Suzuki DR’s. I’d be a crippled, writhing mess, even if the 200 and 400 cc motors could cope with the high-speed traffic on today’s roads. Coping with traffic is not something I’d like to do on the R65, either: the old girl has a serious vibration right about where the herd likes to cruise.

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She’s the right choice for a midsummer day with clear skies and a trip to work or even a night out at a local seafood joint, but toss in some bad weather or a long highway stretch and she’s no longer in my good graces. She’s too old and too pretty to be ridden hard and put away wet. I can’t say the same for my RS: after 65,000 miles, she’s been ridden every way there is to be ridden short of dual-sporting and some of the gravel she’s seen was nearly worthy of knobbies. She was a treat on the track and she’s seen every sort of precipitation known to man, but her pathetic heated grips and scarce wind protection leave me dreaming of the RT when the mercury plummets or heavy rains fall. She’s been to Vermont and back in a weekend, but twice she’s barfed a piece of valve out the exhaust system (she runs pretty good as a 575). But there’s still no clear winner: each is special in her own way and for her own purpose. I’m a very lucky bugger to have a wonderful, understanding wife and the wherewithal to have multiple mechanical mistresses. Each moto has wormed her way into my heart in some instances and onto my black list in others. Trying to pick a clear favorite is just as hard as trying to pick a least favorite - it depends on the circumstances. I have never owned a moto I truly hated, nor have I owned one I thought was the be-all and end-all. Plus, I’m always prone to fall prey to the advances of another: you never know when one will come along that fills a new place in my heart. It might be a vintage scrambler or a modern example of two-wheeled wizardry. My favorite motorcycle? The one I just bought, the one I just sold, the one I’m about to buy, or the one that just caught my eye. FREE WHEELIN’

(Continued from Page 4)

Still on our California ride we spent a few minutes at Bad Water, in Death Valley. There were a number of American cruisers parked there and the large group left. Now in truth, they were not that loud, but the perception I noticed was of the regular folk that were touring Death Valley this day. As one bike rode by, with quiet stock pipes, this older couple immediately put their fingers in the ears, even though it was not needed. How many times has this happened to you. You have a quiet machine, yet children and adults alike put their hands to their ears for protection from a noise that is not even there. Well, that is your average American’s perception of all of us. I wonder where they got that from? But it gets worse. Up along East Shore Drive on Greenwood Lake at the New York / New Jersey border I recently saw a small sign that said “Loud Pipes? Have a Beer on us!” I don’t think they were being friendly, do you?


BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2010

BACKLASH Happy 15th

Dear Brian and Shira, We wanted to take this opportunity to say congratulations on your 15 years of Backroads. We feel very fortunate that we met you on one of your adventures, a Windjammer cruise in the Caribbean, more than five years ago. And since then and with every issue of Backroads, we take a wonderful journey with you through the pages of your great tourmagazine around this country and around the world. We don’t ride, and probably never will, but hope one day to meet up at one of your Vermont b&b trips (we’ll put the bags in our car!) or to get to one of your other great events. And don’t think your issues go to waste on us...they don’t. They are well read from cover to cover and then passed to friends and co-workers who have a passion for riding. And we even keep a few Rip & Rides around for when we need a quick day trip (like Teddi and Sheridan’s first trip to the Walkway over the Hudson). And I might just buy a couple of Kermit chairs for festivals and concerts! Thanks for sharing your adventures and your passion for riding with us. Your Biggest Non-Motorcycle Riding Fans, Rand Otten, Teddi Barry, and your newest fan, Sheridan Bridget Barry

Fling in Fontana

Shira and Brian, Thanks again for putting together a great memorable Backroads trip. You guys are the masters of finding and putting together great back roads. As you pursue your future Backroads Rally adventures it will be interesting to see how far you can pushed the distance of these events. Mike & Nuri Wernick

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LETTERS

TO THE

EDITOR

Brian & Shira, We had a great time as always. Great place to hold a rally, every road was superb, lots of old friends, and some new ones. Only bad part was it had to come to an end. Paul & Diane Donoghue Backroads, Had a great time guys! Beers by the pool helped after a hot morning ride. Great weather too, didn’t have to put on the rain gear once in 9 days and 3250 miles of riding! Joe Niemec - One of dozens of former STMC Presidents attending Backroads, We really enjoyed this trip-best yet. MeSo says hope you get home safe and sound and sorry about Shira’s bike. Tony & Gena Lisanti Hey Shira & Brian, I mailed you a copy of the photos I took during the Backroads 15th Anniversary event, including our visit to Wheels Through Time. I’m definitely going back there another time when I can take my time and look at things a little more closely. Since I can’t get to NJ as often as I’d like, this was a great opportunity to see so many friends at once-and enjoy some great riding! Thanks for another great event! Hugs, Rob Mitchell Backroads, We had a really great time. Unfortunately, my clutch slave cylinder crapped out on the way home, so we had a pretty nasty ride home. We stopped at Hammersly in Lynchbug for repairs, but they are out of business. Ended up at Morton’s in Fredericksburg. Stuart, the service manager


SEPTEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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hooked us up. We were in at 8:00 on the road by 11:00, and even got to test ride a 2010 RT. Woo! Hoo! Stopped at Bob’s BMW on the way home for a private tour of the museum and met the guys I only know over the phone. Back home safe and sound Saturday night around 10:30. All’s well that ends well, and a very enjoyable weekend. Great to see old friends and make some new ones. Thanks to Paul, Diane and Tony for looking out for us during our ordeal. Larry & Eric Barasch

Backroads trip. It was to the Catskills. In this photo you can see us enjoying some drinks and wearing our favorite shirts. Regards, Tom Tom, Wow, those are some classice T’s you’ve got. If you send your mailing address, we’ll pop some new ones in the mail for you.

Shira, I just want to thank you for your August “Watchathinkin” column. Beautifully written and spot on! Thanks for having the selfconfidence and commitment to motorcyclist safety to openly share your own personal experience in a candidly self-critical manner. I nominate you for the Coolest Journalist of the Week Award. Al Hydeman

Hello, First off, I love your publication and I subscribe to home delivery, and think the GPS routes are awesome! Now to my point, my suggestion, maybe you can consider an automated email newsletter/distribution for when new GPS routes are added to the website. Or even better, a newsletter subscription that the user can select which content updates they wish to receive, such as a large check off/buttons list one for each section (GAADR, GPS, Weird NJ.....). I know I would subscribe to everything. Thanks and keep up the great work you do for Jerseyites (if that was a word) and the rest of the northeast Robert Gross

Al, what a wonderful compliment, thank you so much. As I find it difficult enough to put my thoughts to paper, this truly means a great deal to me.

Robert, You can find many Rip & Ride GPS on our website these days - check them out.

Hello from the Far Side of the World

Americade vs New York

Thanks to all of you who attended. We look forward to the future and even better rallies. Shira’s bike is already fixed - silly cam chain tensioner.

Kudos Shira

Hi Brian and Shira, I spent the last school year in the United Arab Emirates - near Dubai. On the way back to New Jersey my girlfriend and I stopped in Singapore and spent a week with Rodney. I don’t need to remind you that it’s because of you two that we met and are such friends. We met at the very first

Brian and Shira, Many thanks for the kind and flattering words about Americade 2010, and the commentary about NYS DEC. It will be interesting to see if some folks do write Messrs Schwartz & Grannis, and get a human to reply from them. No new news on that front here, just excuses from various legislators and their assistants as to why Albany just rolls along, dysfunctional, over-expensive and un-accountable. Regarding your nice spread on the event itself, not only was the story fun to read, it’s also very gratifying to be reminded that Americade remains a big piece of many people’s, and especially my friends’, lives. As I type this, I gaze with a smile at Backroads’ L.A.M.E. award. I am

at Country Rode Motowerks

Watkins Glen Track Tour Saturday Sept. 4th @ Noon

FW SPEER YAMAHA 7 Main Avenue • Passaic, NJ www.speeryamaha.com • 973-778-6256 Gold Certified

Country Rode is planning its 4th annual Watkins Glen Track Charity Tour during the Finger Lakes BMW M/C Rally. We will be limiting the number of bikes to 150 this year. Funds raised will be for Vaughn aka Buford Pembroke who sustained a spinal cord injury in a motorcycle accident in Utah, May 28th. For more details please visit our website at www.CountryRode.com.


BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2010

Mail:

BACKROADS PO Box 317 Branchville NJ 07826

Email: editor@backroadsusa.com Fax: (973) 948-0823

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Got something to say? We’d love to hear it. Letters may be edited, never censored, to fit.

truly honored to follow in the footsteps of Mike Traynor, a man who I deeply respected. Whatta legacy; one which dwarfs mine. All the best, Bill Dutcher Backroads, Not to wish any ill wind upon the folks of Lake George but perhaps it’s time for a change of venue - a new place, a new look. Who wouldn’t go to VT, NH or MA? What about VA, WV or NC, still just a day’s ride. All these locations would welcome the Americade with open arms. You might also attract those who had grown tired of Lake George and those who were too far away to attend. Just a thought. And besides, obviously the NY tax revenues have not done much to help us New Yorkers anyway. Regards, Dwight and Mary

tle diners, old hotels, B & B’s, BBQ joints and backroads. There are all kinds of little towns with roundabouts and “townie restaurants” just waiting to be discovered. Come on down to York and Adams Counties in PA! I also read Rider, Cycle World and Motorcyclist. Each one has their specialty area of information. However, more and more, I find the real enjoyment I get is from reading Backroads. Your mag is the ONE that I rarely put away until I’m finished reading it from cover-to-cover. Recently, I have been collecting bike magazines that I read and donating them to the VA Hospital (in lots of 50). I know that there must be wounded service personnel who were/still want to be in the wind. Best always to both of you. Keep up the excellent work! Sheldon Braffman - Reisterstown, MD

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Brian, Just read your piece about the nice, tolerant Progressives. Let me tell you amigo, there is absolutely nothing tolerant about Progressives. If you are not exactly like them, then you are a disease (by their reckoning). Funny how the name they chose for themselves is, by design, 180 degrees out of reality. Actually that whole shameless spin thing is becoming more common every day. Dare I say it could be The Royal Scam? These are initiatives bearing names that deliberately misrepresent what they’re really all about. They usually have the word “reform” lurking somewhere within. When in fact what they are “reforming” wasn’t broken at all! American political “progressives” have very nearly destroyed the United States more than once in our history. And they’re working at it again. The only Progressive worth a damn is the one that writes my motorcycle insurance policies. Ride well, Jeff Adams Dear Editors, Well, I could not figure out why anyone would send a motorcycle magazine to Mrs. Bridges’ Pantry but I am so very glad you did. Thank you so much for running the article and if you would please extend our thanks to Bill Heald for writing it. I can’t wait to show it to my children. One lives in Portland and the other lives in Spain. They think they’re so cool. Pamela Spaeth - Mrs. Bridges Pantry Brian, Just wanted to send you and Shira a quick note. Every month that I pick-up Backroads from Bob’s BMW, I find that it is the BEST and most pertinent to the Mid-Atlantic and the kind of riding that I like to participate in; a little more stuff about Maryland would be nice to see. We also have some very cool lit-

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B I G C I T Y G E TA W AY DRAKES WELL MUSEUM

202 MUSEUM LANE, TITUSVILLE, PA 16354 814-827-2797 • WWW.DRAKEWELL.ORG And up through the ground come a bubblin’ crude, Oil, that is, black gold, Texas tea.

Texas? I don’t think so. I am here to tell you that oil, in fact the entire petroleum industry, had its beginning outside the small Pennsylvania town of Titusville. It was back in the late 1850’s when oil was primarily used to “beat back the night” and was used in lamps to such ends. It was right around then that whale oil began to get more and more expensive and some brilliant people realized that the crude oil that was found while drilling

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for salt could be refined and used in lamps. A man by the name of Colonel Edwin Drake was hired to go north of the city of Pittsburg, to the tiny town of Titusville, Pennsylvania to see if he could find a better source of oil in the region as the land showed promise and all the right ingredients to produce the crude. The truth was, Edwin Drake was not a “Colonel” of anything. He and his financiers simply invented the title to impress the locals, many of whom laughed at what was, for a time, known as “Drake’s Folly”. With the financial backing of the newly formed Pennsylvania Rock Oil Company (soon to be renamed Seneca Oil Company), Drake set off to Titusville in 1857 to survey the situation. Drilling began in the summer of 1859. There were many problems with this well, and progress was slow and financially costly. The initial money the investors had fronted Drake ran out, and he had to borrow more to keep drilling. On August 27, 1859, Drake and Smith drilled to a depth of 69 1/2 feet. It was not until the next morning, on August 28, when the driller, “Uncle Billy” Smith, noticed oil floating in the hole they had pulled the drilling tools from the night before. By today’s standards, it was a pretty unremarkable hole, probably producing 20 barrels or less of oil per day. The timing could not have been better. Most of the financial backers had given up on the project, and James Townsend, after having financed the operation out of his own pocket, had sent Drake the order to

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pay the remaining bills and close up shop. Drake received this order on the very day that he struck oil. Almost overnight, the quiet farming region changed in much the same manner as the gold rush towns of the Wild West. Still not convinced that the Oil Regions in Pennsylvania were important in the early days of oil? Consider this - Pennsylvania was responsible for 1/2 of the WORLD’S production of oil until the East Texas oil boom of 1901. For years the oil was used mostly for light and the waste product of refinement, such as gasoline,-were used for more mundane things. Then Edison turned on the first electric bulb and, once again the world changed! Just when the oil industry, led by Rockefeller’s Standard Oil, thought the ‘jig might be up’ another little inconsequential thing came along; the internal combustion engine. Suddenly the focus went from oil for lamps to the waste product gasoline. As we now know this would be a game changer in a big way. Still these days everything is based on the petroleum industry in some form. This magazine, that soda bottle, the pen on your desk, the computer you surf with and a gazillion things on your own motorcycle all have the petroleum industry to thank in one way or another. Not to mention the fuel in your tank. And, to think it all started right here at the Drake Well Museum. These days you can visit the very site where the “history of the world” changed forever and stroll around the great park that Pennsylvania put

Page 15

around it. There is a re-creation of the very well that Drake used and you can even see, touch and feel real Pennsylvanian Crude Oil. To think this stuff was sold as medicine almost makes you get sick. Where did you think the phrase “Snake Oil” came from? The 20-minute video is well worth watching and when you are done you, too, will be a believer in what was called “Drake’s Folly.” One display had aromatic bottles with crude from around the world

and it was fascinating how Pennsylvania Crude smelled so different from Texas or oil from the Middle East. When we visited the museum it was under major renovation, but it should be open to the public soon. The region around Titusville has some of the best riding in the northeast so with the Alleghenies in mind we’ll start this excursion in Wellsboro, Pennsylvania and give you a great ride into an important part of history. Rip & Ride found on page 56.


SEPTEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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Bergen County Harley-Davidson Presents

W E ’ R E O U T TA H E R E OZ’S HOMESTAY

296 FAULKNER ROAD , SHINGLEHOUSE, PA 16748 814-697-7218 • WWW.OZHOMESTAY-HUNTINGLODGE.COM In L. Frank Baum’s classic, the Wizard of Oz, Dorothy Gale drops from the sky to a magical place. As kids; how many of us wished we could do the same; sans the Wicked Witch part of course? Well, we’re here to tell you of a place where that can happen, in a way. Where you can literally drop from the sky and land safely in a most happy place. Seriously! Pack up the bikes and let’s get going, ‘cause this time we really are Outta Here!

This story has its roots down under in Australia. A young guy, by the name of Ash, had two passions; motorcycles and skydiving. Over the years he logged thousands of miles and thousands of jumps and in his travels he eventually landed in New York State, where he was an instructor to novices looking to learn of the thrills of skydiving. One of his students was a young lady named Celeine. She took to skydiving like a bird to flight. She also took to Ash in a big way as well. Years later these two have found their own Shangri-La right on the border of Pennsylvania and New York with Oz’s Homestay. Part B & B, part Sky Dive Center - it is all good! To get to this part of Pennsylvania you have to cut through a bit of New York, but the gravel road that brings you to Oz runs right back over the state’s border. Here you’ll find a marvelous farmhouse with a large red out building across the field, now more hanger than barn. Running the length of the property is a wide grass runway and the surrounding

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads wide-open fields make for perfectly gentle landings for those that have come here to jump. The Homestay itself is as comfortable as it gets and, unlike your typical Bed & Breakfast, an Aussie Homestay is more like staying in a second home. Ash is a superb cook, and coming from us that means a lot! In the evenings dinner is taken together and that night Filet Mignon wrapped in Bacon, with an assortment of deliciously prepared veggies made their way to our plates. The rest of the guests made for great company and watching the last few jumps of the afternoon, in the blazingly painted dusk sky, from the wide deck with a glass of chilled white wine was a treat all by itself. Especially when our own Notso Happy was going along for a 12,000-foot tandem jump with Ash. Happy, that crazy little yellow fella! With all settled in and after helping put the plane away we enjoyed a late evening with Ash and Celeine as fantastic hosts. But, there was no need to hurry off to bed, as we got involved in a few rounds of pool with fellow riders who flew their own plane


BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2010

up to Oz to catch up on their jumping. From there it was onto the Sauna and Salt Water Hot Tub for a relaxing finish to the night. Our room was also well beyond what we imagined. A huge bed, hand carved out of Cherry Wood was as fluffy and as comfortable as it gets. They have four rooms all together and all equally as enticing and all with hand-made beds created from Iron Wood and Water Beech. The morning’s breakfast, consisting of some wonderful eggs, snatched fresh from the same chickens that were surrounding my GS the night before, and was equally as good as the previous night’s dinner. Here is where things differ from the ordinary. Most B & B’s will serve you breakfast, but at Oz’s Homestay you get a hearty gourmet dinner as well. There is no set price for this meal. In fact, they leave it up to you to donate what you would for the night’s meal and any beer or wine you may have indulged in during the evening. We were happy to ante’ up! What a refreshing place. So here you have one of the coolest places we have stayed in a long time and next time Ash might even get me up into a perfectly good plane; only to jump out of it. Time will tell, but we do know we will head back to Oz’s Homestay whenever we are in the Allegheny region - for, not only is it well worth the ride; the ride in itself is fantastic. So follow along with our Rip and Ride on page 56 and you too will find yourself somewhere over the rainbow.

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SEPTEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s M Y S T E R I O U S ZIPPO CASE MUSEUM

1932 ZIPPO DRIVE, BRADFORD, PENNSYLVANIA 16701 814-368-1932 • WWW.ZIPPO.COM When it comes to American icons many things can pop into your mind. One thing that did not float into my gray matter was the name Zippo. That has now changed and I am sure if the Made in the USA lighter that is found around the world is not on your short list of home grown icons than it will be after you visit the Zippo Case Museum in Bradford, Pennsylvania. As a non-smoker I almost passed on this visit, but as a lover of things cool and mysterious the classic lighter is just that - classic.

But how did this lighter come to be and how did it become the most famous lighter on the planet? The Zippo Lighters story began back in the 1930’s. A fellow by the name of George Blaisdell was a local country club member and was watching a friend trying to light a cigarette with an Austrian lighter. Although awkward and needing two hands to operate, George saw good things in the design of his friends lighter, especially the small chimney that allowed for it to stay burning even in a strong wind. Building on that design Blaisdell began to fashion his own design for a lighter. Blaisdell fabricated a rectangular case and attached the top of the lighter to the case with a hinge. He retained the chimney design which protected the flame under adverse conditions. The result was a lighter that looked good and was easy to operate. The first lighter, currently displayed at the Zippo/Case Museum in Bradford, was produced in early 1933. I wondered where the word “Zippo” came from? It turns out George liked the sound of the word “zipper” so he formed different variations on the word and settled on “Zippo,” deciding that it had a “modern” sound and the legend began. The first Zippo lighters sold for $ 1.95 each. And, from the very beginning, they were backed by Mr. Blaisdell’s unconditional lifetime guarantee - “It works or we fix it free.” The design of the Zippo lighter basically remains the same to this day, with minor improvements and you can find the venerable flame all around the globe. World War II had a profound effect on Zippo. Upon America’s entry in

AMERICA the war, Zippo ceased production of lighters for consumer markets and dedicated all manufacturing to the U.S. military. The military initiative led to the production of the steel-case Zippo with black “crackle” finish. The fact that millions of American military personnel carried the lighter into battle was a significant catalyst in establishing Zippo as an icon of America throughout the world. While visiting the Zippo Museum, where admission is always free, you will learn more of the history of Zippo and its sister company the famous Case knives. The first thing you’ll see at the museum is just how many different logos, designs and companies have gotten their image on a Zippo lighter. Tons of rock bands, every Apollo mission, Major League Baseball team and NFL Football franchises have a lighter. We even found one for Notso and his ilk! What really impressed me was how the Zippo has become such a part of Hollywood. They have a display of famous movie shots. Bruce Willis in Die Hard. Steve Martin receiving a Zippo from his black Dad in The Jerk.


BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2010

And, my favorite, Kurt Russel, the first Jack O’Neil, in the Stargate movie showing the magic of creating fire to Skarra on the planet Abydos. There is no question that this is “the” most famous of flame-makers. Another touching display is of a lighter lost on D-Day at Omaha Beach. Crossing the Channel a soldier etched his name on the lighter, which promptly hit the ground when this soldier hit the beach. Years later it was found and returned to Zippo who went in search of this man. They did finally find him, but not before he passed just two years before. A bittersweet, yet touching Zippo story. Case Knives are also very impressive and are worthy of icon status as well. As you would think there is a large Zippo and Case store located at the Museum and you have an unbelievable selection of lighters to choose from. As I stated, I do not smoke, but yet I found myself mysteriously drawn to the idea of purchasing a Zippo to call my own. The choices were staggering, but eventually I set my sights on a plain gunmetal Zippo in a 1941-style design, much like the famous World War II Zippo. A very cool little tool that will travel with me and be flashed out anytime a beautiful

Page 19

damsel needs a light or to help with a buddy’s cigar. Zippo - who would have thought that such a simply designed lighter would make it around the world and into a part of Mysterious America. Bradford is way out in western PA, so we’ll magically transport ourselves to Mid-State where we’ll start this ride at Locke Haven. O’Life out!

Rip & Ride® • ZIPPO CASE MUSEUM 1932 ZIPPO DRIVE, BRADFORD, PENNSYLVANIA 16701 814-368-1932 • WWW.ZIPPO.COM

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SEPTEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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G R E AT A L L A M E R I C A N D I N E R R U N

tasty places to take your bike

KUNDLA’S OPEN PIT BAR-B-Q

RTE. 590, HAMLIN, PA 18444 • 570-689-7888 This month’s stop on the Great All American Diner Run came about from some discussions on Facebook. Who said nothing good would ever come from this? It seems there was this great barbeque lurking about, not far from Lake Wallenpaupack, in the bustling little burg of Hamlin. Since we are always up for a new barbeque place we made plans to visit and then had some more fun and turned it into a Friday afternoon ride for a few readers that were able to join us - (See Mystery Ride page?). Now unlike many barbeque restaurants that make their living by simply being a restaurant Kundla’s goes about it their own way. They are, first and foremost, a Western Beef Company selling choice cuts of superb meats from their store. With room about the property they decided during the summer to create an Open Pit Barbeque and open to the general public. These days Kundla’s Open Pit Bar-B-Q has become the stuff of legend and for excellent reasons. They are one of the best we have ever had. And, we have had plenty. When you hear of such a place you kind of create a picture in

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your mind of what it will look like and where it will actually be found. Sitting in the very “unlike the rest of the region” Hamlin, across from the shopping center, I was first a bit disappointed in Kundla’s - that was till I walked around back and got the first whiffs of the incredible barbeque they were cookin’ in the rear. Huge and hot pits smoked forth with large steel grates suspended on cut steel i-beams, which held golden brown halves of chicken. The other side had pork chops and other huge ribs. Young folks were scurrying around making sure everything was being done to perfection. I took a walk around, taking it all in, and then perused the meat shop itself, with thoughts of buying some frozen meat that would make it back home defrosted enough for that evening’s meal. After


BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2010

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the huge portions of barbeque we were served that never happened. The Bar-B-Q menu had all you could ask for with both beef and pork ribs that were beyond tasty and some of the best bar-

Now, although we had heard how great they were we didn’t get a chance to chow down on Kundla’s legendary bar-b-q pork chops. But that is fine with us as it means a return trip is not only in order, but demanded. Needless to say we had a large amount of leftovers that evening at Backroads Central. Kundla’s is well worth the ride but there are a few things to be aware of. They only take cash, no credit cards, and they are only open every Friday, Saturday and Sundays 11 am till 8pm; from May through Columbus Day Weekend. Then they are shut down for the winter. We have a great ride, starting at the ChatterBox, in Augusta, New Jersey for this month’s GAADR so follow along enjoy some seriously great barbeque. (Rip & Ride on page 56)

beque chicken I have ever had. The cobs of corn we’re cooked to perfection and were as sweet as they come. Kundla’s also had some serious bar-b-q beans, all home baked and with chunks of their own smoked bacon through out. Your order comes all wrapped in foil and opening my mixedcombo, which consisted of 1/4 rack of beef ribs, 1/4 rack of pork ribs and a half chicken, was almost overwhelming. The beef ribs reminded me of the Flintstones! We ordered a bunch of sides, all in the name of complete and thorough journalism you know, and enjoyed the deli-pickles as well. All this was brushed down with Kundla’s own sauce that just made great even greater.

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INDUSTRY INFOBITES TOURING SOUTH AFRICA

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South African Airways (flysaaspecials.com) just announced a half price airfare sale from Sept. 13 thru March 31 through American

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great winter of riding.

NEW JERSEY CANCELS MOTORCYCLE INSPECTION OR WE DON’T NEED NO STINKIN’ BADGES Citing budget concerns and perhaps adding in some common sense New Jersey has stopped the mandatory inspections of motorcycles. Effective August 1, 2010, motorcycles are no longer required to submit for an inspection in New Jersey and display registration decals. Registration decals will no longer be issued. Decals may be removed from license plates. Riders should keep in mind that it is their responsibility to make sure their motorcycles are free from mechanical defects and are operating properly. Law enforcement may still cite a cyclist for equipment out of compliance or failure to make repairs. Motorcycle owner checklist and protective equipment: License plate and current registration Valid insurance card Valid motorcycle driver license USDOT approved non-reflective helmet with four inches of reflective tape on each side Approved goggles or face shield if motorcycle is not equipped with an approved wind screen

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Ryders Alley United is having an exclusive trackday event; “On Any Trackday” will be held on October 5th & 6th, 2010 at New Jersey’s Motorsports Park Thunderbolt track and will include instruction by WSBK Champion Doug Polen & current WSBK Racer Luca Scassa, completely OPEN TRACK for 2 days, limited to 35 Ryders, VIP on-Track suite & Garage included (2 Ryders/room) and end of day “Race” - a Minimum lap time of 1:42 seconds required (or equivalent at other track). “On Any Trackday” was started as a small group of friends who had the opportunity to ride a track all to themselves for 2 days earlier this year. “On Any Trackday” is gaining interest from racers and enthusiasts in the US and Italy. Ryders Alley United will continue to plan exclusive track events around the world giving its customers a chance to experience a truly unobstructed, schedule-free and open trackday. Additional information about Ryders Alley United can be found on their web site at www.rydersalley.com

AMERICAN MOTORCYCLIST ASSOCIATION UNVEILS FIRST-EVER NATIONAL MOTORCYCLIST VOTER GUIDE

The AMA is pleased to announce the 2010 AMA Voter Guide, a comprehensive online voter guide designed to educate AMA members on how their elected officials acted upon and voted on motorcycle-relevant issues. The 2010 AMA Voter Guide, the first national voter guide of its kind for the motorcycling community, features a fuel-gauge rating for every federal


BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2010

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and gubernatorial candidate of the major political parties who returned an AMA questionnaire. The rating shows how closely the candidates’ answers correspond to the positions held by the AMA. The Voter Guide also spells out where candidates stand on motorcycling-related issues. In addition, it features a scorecard for federal incumbents seeking reelection that demonstrates how closely their voting records match the positions held by the AMA. The 2010 AMA Voter Guide is available to AMA members in the Members Area of the AMA website at http://home.amacycle.org/membersonly/index.asp. Motorcyclists who wish to join the AMA and take advantage of this latest member benefit can do so at AmericanMotorcyclist.com/join/index.asp.

AMERICAN MOTORCYCLIST ASSOCIATION

SEEKS

SUSPENSION OF GRANT PROGRAM THAT TARGETS MOTORCYCLISTS WITH CHECKPOINTS

A federal traffic safety agency is offering law enforcement agencies hundreds of thousands of dollars to set up checkpoints that target only motorcyclists, and the American Motorcyclist Association wants to know why. The AMA has asked the agency, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), to suspend the grant program until questions raised by the motorcycling community are addressed. “How do motorcycle-only checkpoints increase the safety of motorcyclists?” Ed Moreland, AMA senior vice president for government relations, wrote in a letter to NHTSA Administrator David Strickland on Aug. 9. “Where do the selected states draw their authority to conduct” motorcycle-only safety checks? “Will ‘probable cause’ be required to stop a motorcycle under the terms of this grant program?” Moreland asked. “If so, what will constitute probable cause?” Under its Motorcycle Law Enforcement Demonstration grant program, the NHTSA will award up to $350,000 in total to be divided among as many as five law enforcement agencies to set up traffic check-

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points that target motorcyclists. The demonstration program is modeled after a controversial program in New York where the state police set up a series of checkpoints that targeted only motorcyclists, raising the ire of the AMA and motorcycling community. In 2008, for example, New York State Police announced plans to set up 15 checkpoints near motorcycling events that summer. The AMA questioned the potential discriminatory and legal nature of the program and sent a list of questions for clarification to the New York State Police. To date, New York authorities have not responded. Moreland said that if the NHTSA is truly interested in motorcyclist safety, it should fund proven programs that help prevent crashes — rather than checkpoints that single out motorcyclists. “The primary source of motorcycle safety is in motorcycle crash prevention, and NHTSA should focus on decreasing the likelihood of crashes from occurring in the first place,” Moreland said. The AMA urges all riders to contact Strickland and ask that the discriminatory Motorcycle Law Enforcement Demonstration grant program be suspended until questions raised by the motorcycling community are addressed. The easiest way to do that is to go to the AMA website at AmericanMotorcyclist.com > Rights > Issues & Legislation.

HARLEY-DAVIDSON

SELLS

MV AGUSTA

Harley-Davidson has concluded the sale of its subsidiary, MV Agusta, to Claudio Castiglioni and his wholly owned holding company, MV Agusta Motor Holding, S.r.l. Castiglioni is the former owner of the Italian motorcycle maker and has served as MV Agusta’s chairman since 2008, when Harley-Davidson acquired the company. In October 2009, Harley-Davidson announced its intention to sell MV accepts AgustaBACKROADS as part of a newgladly corporate strategy press to focusreleases. resources on the Please brand. forward via email to: discusHarley-Davidson Sincetext/images then, Harley-Davidson has held sions with variouseditor@backroadsusa.com potential MV Agusta buyers.

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SEPTEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

Page 24

E VENT R ECAP

2010 RAMAPO 500

words: Ron Dedrick • images: Jaime Cruz

Well the boys at the Ramapo Motorcycle Club did it again, 34 years and still the best summer ride anywhere. My wife and I have made this an annual ritual since 1983 and barring extreme weather have not been disappointed. Saturday’s route took us across Southern New York and Northern New Jersey, passing by Backroads Central. It was apparent by the brisk pace of the other riders that this was familiar turf. Once we were across Dingman’s Bridge, things slowed somewhat and missed turns became more frequent. Fortunately many of the roads were under tree cover which helped keep down the oven-like temps outside and inside the riding gear. About three quarters through the ride and just when we thought it was safe came the obligatory gravel/dirt road. This one was complete with craters, bumps and a few jumps. We lost some gear here while airborne. Dinner at the camp ground was welcome and air conditioned and was actually pretty good but the usual post meal festivities seemed muted. I guess the day’s heat had taken its toll and made for an early night. Sunday was already getting towards hot by 8:00 AM as breakfast ended and most were pulling out. We started out with a group of forty to fifty bikes and while not my preference, I still marveled at the coordination and choreography of a group of strangers with a single purpose. I can think of no other scenario except for the military, where no instructions are given but everyone knows what to do. Back through the Pocono’s and North Western New Jersey on many roads I had not ridden before. I don’t know how NJ got such a bad reputation, these roads are as good as many more “famous” locations. Finally getting to the end of the route sheet and great weekend, finished at last. Oh yeah, another 250 miles to home. Thanks to the Ramapo Motorcycle Club for another great annual tradition. Keep up the fine work and we’ll see you next year.

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October 1-3, 2010 FREE all-brand gathering featuring off-road riding, sport riding and sport touring, along with the Hunter Mountain OktoberFest! Come join us to see the finest show Mother Nature can offer, enjoy the unspoiled roads the weekend before Columbus Day, and also enjoy the company of your fellow riders of all types. Visit motorcycle vendors, attend interesting seminars, nightly entertainment, and an opportunity to participate in off-road schools led by Team MAX. Hunter Mountain's 30th Annual Oktoberfest features fantastic live entertainment surrounded by the autumn beauty of the Catskills. The modern celebration of the harvest features a farmers market, plenty of vendors, free crafts, pumpkin painting for the kids, and much more. Free Admission! Entertainer Highlights: Direct from Munich: Allgäu-Wind The Austrian Boys • The Sugarbees • Lex Grey & the Urban Pioneers On-site lodging is available at the Kaatskill Mountain Club or Liftside Village Condominiums and camping is also on-site. Call 800-486-8376 for details. Lodging reservations at 518-263-5580.

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BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2010

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SEPTEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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Eternal Riding Brian Rathjen

M

Exploring the Alleghenies and the Endl ess Mountain s of Pennsylva nia

emorial Day Weekend has always been a favorite here at Backroads Central. There always seems to be a lot going on during the merry month of May and this year was no exception, or maybe it was. Early month family events took much attention and we still had a magazine to produce, the Spring Break to handle and anniversaries and birthdays as well.

As we slid into the Memorial Day weekend we also slid into the saddles of two packed motorcycles and headed out early that Thursday. The few days leading up to this morning found us discussing where we should ride. Basically we were looking for spots that were not already on our ‘schedule of places to be’. We had just ridden the Amish and coal country of Pennsylvania and parts of Virginny and West “By God” Virginny were already tagged. Americade and a jaunt into eastern Canada were coming up quickly as were rides to New England. Watching B.P. wreck the Gulf of Mexico one evening I thought about how much is at stake with this stuff called oil - black gold - Texas tea. But Texas? Well that just isn’t very accurate, is it? If you were looking for the very first oil boom towns in these United States one has to look just west into the far reaches of the Keystone State of Pennsylvania. Suddenly, like the Cylons, we had a plan. We pulled out the maps and got busy with the research. What, you think this stuff just happens?


BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2010

Early that morning we crossed over the Dingmans Bridge and paid our $2 to the oh-so-happy Toll Collector. Have you ever seen these people smile, especially at this Delaware crossing. Smile for God’s sakes it’s a beautiful morning - and it was my birthday. We had plotted a very twistilicious route across the Poconos and then the Susquehanna. This ride was absolutely awesome and one that you had better keep your pace sane and your eyes open. In the little burg of Newfoundland we popped into a small local diner named Spanky’s and had a birthday breakfast that couldn’t be beat, with my side-kick Notso shocked to find his lost N.J. license plate hanging on the wall. It seems it went missing, as did Notso’s Jaguar, back in the ‘90s after a hard night in Wildwood. He claims the Jag was stolen. Some folks call this repossession.

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today what remains are some of the worker’s building that have been remodeled into a very fine inn indeed. Well worth a We’re Outta Here in the near future. We unpacked the bikes and got into our room, before strolling around the grounds which butt up against the 250 acres nature conservancy. It doesn’t get much prettier than here. We rode into town that was not exactly hopping the week before the “official” start of summer, but there seemed to be a lot to offer, just not that Thursday.

Well, that was okay as Eagles Mere is located just south of World’s End State Park and with We cut around the city of Scranton as best we could and soon were in the region they call the Endless Mountains. Here the super tight roadways of the Pocono Mountains were replaced with wide sweepers with great visibility. We made excellent time to our first night’s stop, the historic town of Eagles Mere. Shira had booked a room at the very sweet Crestmont Inn, found right outside the town. Once a huge hotel from the glory days of huge hotels,

us streaking towards that Mayan calamity and fate we thought it best to ride to the top of the mountain and take in the vista of the End of the World. Wow, if the real end is anything like the view here the final days will be glorious.


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This night dinner would only be found south of Laporte, a nearby town, so we doubled up on the GS and had a super meal, sans wine. On my birthday no less. Sniff. On the way to the restaurant, the Sullivan County Road House, which is friggin’ huge dontcha’ know, we saw a number of signs for Aaron Kelly. My first thought was that this kid was young to be running for office, but then we figured out he was performing on American Idol. Seated at our table, Shira ask who Aaron Kelly was and if he lived in the area. The entire bar turned and stared at her with stern looks. It was vaguely reminiscent of American Werewolf in London; it you catch my drift. That night we were promised heavy-duty thunderstorms, but the morning found our covers dry. Wet or dry it mattered not as I was celebrating the three-game shut out sweep of the Mets over the Phillies. Now that was a birthday present.

The Crestmont served a scrumptious breakfast and soon we were back on the machines and scooting the backroads of the Endless Mountains. We rode through the bottom of World’s End Park; which we both thought was one of the prettiest parks in the northeast. We had pre-planned our day’s ride and were moving along swimmingly until we ran into the first detour near Pine Creek. This happened a number of times this day and each detour was more delightful than the one before. Along one detour we spotted a trio that looked as if they were fishing, except one guy had a .22 with a significant scope. Asking if the bridge was really out I mentioned the rifle and he told me he was shooting snakes, as the area was infested. He shot 40 the previous outing. Yikes! Part of the route brought us along the top of the Alleghenies along some dirt lumber road. Some were on the gnarly-side, but most were fine and Shira’s 919 with sport tires had no problem so most riders should be good.

But, then again, her Honda Sport Bike lives between a GS and a KLR so it gets plenty of coaching in the barn. The views from atop the peaks looking to the valley so far below were breathtaking and worth every dusty mile.


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We found a break off the bikes right on the Pine Creek at the Hotel Manor, which we featured a while back in these pages. We hadn’t been there before, but were sure glad we came upon it. What a great place to enjoy lunch or, in this case, some serious carrot cake and coffee.

At one point our detours got totally crossed and we found ourselves at a gravel cross roads that was filled with two pick-up trucks and two guys in farmers pants busily chatting it up. In the middle of the road.

We asked their opinion on which way would work best and at the same time they pointed in different directions. How funny; where had I seen this before? Our destination for this day was Oz’ HomeStay. Part B & B, part Sky Dive Center. Owned by Aussie Ash Easdonsmith and his wife Celine this place was about as cool as it comes. Although I thought Shira had slywrapped me with my first jump it turned out that I, with my thicker molecular structure, was a bit heavy for the leap. Gee. It sucks being Kryptonian. A number of parachutists jumped the afternoon we were there. One couple flew their own plane into Oz and then jumped into another only to jump back out again...at 10,000 feet! Amazing sport. But the place itself....What a phenomenal inn, if not for the fantastic food Ash serves up, then maybe the great bedrooms with giant ironwood, cherry and hickory beds well, then maybe it’s the salt water hot tub. The great combination of all these things made Oz a high point on this tour. Shira had jumped a number of times years back and I was off the short list due to severe gravitational concerns; but we did have one last body to offer from our group. Ash’s jump suit had a number of Happy faces sewn onto it and while NotSo admired his likeness he was snatched by Ash. Next thing we


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knew our boy was in the jump plane and quickly gaining altitude. In a short while I could hear his scream as Ash jumped at 12,000 feet with NotSo tucked securely into his pocket. The yellow guy now has bragging rights at Monkey With a Gun and the certificate to prove it! Breakfast was easily equally to the previous night’s dinner and after saying goodbyes we headed out and back towards the Allegheny Forest.

Today’s ride brought us across the Kinzua Dam and along some more slightly suburban roads as we rode into Bradford and took in the Zippo Lighter Museum. Hot stuff I tell you and worth a story by itself. The Zippo is an American icon and even though I don’t smoke, I now have a 1941 replica in my tank bag at all times.

Anyone need a light? Just ask. From there we scooted south towards Titusville and the Drake Oil Museum in the valley that changed the world. It was here in 1857 that Drake discovered the first drilled strike of Pennsylvanian crude oil. It was here - not Texas - that the petroleum industry was born. What would these first oil pioneers think if they knew how much this one strike would change mankind in such a powerful way? The museum was being refurbished but we watched a very informative film on the history of oil in the region and Shira, who really didn’t want to go to the museum at all, was really impressed. The history of oil and the waste product that we all now depend on - gasoline - is an incredible tale indeed. Our ride from there brought us past Pit Hole, the old oil town now ghost town. We’re sure Seymour has something cooking on this place. From there the ride headed back into the mountains and along the Devil’s own Route 666! The Triple Six in Pennsylvania is one hell of a road. Sorry... you saw that coming, right? This road had us seriously smiling; and with good reason - if you catch my drift?


BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2010

A fantastic piece of serpentry pavement that winds up and down along the wide creek, full of fishermen and bathers enjoying the Memorial Weekend deep in the Allegheny Forest. We rode through Saint Mary, and found the World’s Smallest Chapel, where we atoned for all the sins we committed riding with the Horned One a few miles back. In Ridgway we picked up Route 120, a road we are very familiar with as many of our rally goers should be. Called the Bucktail Trail and running deep between the high and steep mountains for nearly 100 miles, with the West Branch of the Susquehanna River keeping you company most of the way, this is one of the sweetest chunks of pavement in Pennsylvania and if you are ever heading this way you might plan to run this beauty too. We stopped for the night in Renova and overnighted at Yesterdays Hotel and Restaurant. We have featured this establishment a few times in Backroads, but this was the first time we took a room, as usually only lunch was in order. Old Fashioned, clean and comfortable it was the Taj Mahal to us after all the hard and fast miles we put on this day. Tell me a place that is this nice and gives you a meal, a couple of beers and a room for less than $90? Our last blast towards home was just that as we were on the road by 7 am.

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Following the pre-planned route we rode over Hyner Run State Park. The view from the top takes in what seems to be the entire world and we can only imagine what this place looks like in the peak of fall. The rest of the day was spent following tiny backroads that, more or less, headed in a fairly easterly direction. By later in the day that ol’ sweet tooth was kicking in and Shira route pointed us towards Heisler’s Cloverleaf Dairy

in Tamaqua. Done right, the roads leading to Heisler’s are nothing less than stunning as the surrounding peaks lend themselves to some serious ele-

vation changes and the area ‘Road Gods’ decided to follow every contour that the land threw at them. Our ride brought us up along Locust Ridge and right to the huge wind turbines that run along it. These giants of power create enough electricity to light up 6,500 homes annually.

Fully fed and sugared up we pointed the bikes towards the Delaware Water Gap and in just a few hours we rolled into the palatial grounds known as Backroads Central. Earlier that week we had almost chosen to go east and into New England. We are

so glad we chose the other direction. The Alleghenies offer some of the best riding in the northeast. We saw one police unit the entire time and that was on the ride home. The lack of any real traffic allowed for a quick pace for most of the miles. In truth I can’t remember a better weekend of riding in a long time and we are already looking into holding a Backroads event in the Alleghenies in the upcoming seasons. The region offers we riders everything we could ask for - great people, stunning scenery and, best of all, absolutely phenomenal roads.


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A LLEGHENY M YSTERIOUS A MERICA

DECKER CHAPEL - THE SMALLEST CHURCH

IN

AMERICA?

St. Marys, Pennsylvania is your basic run of the mill Allegheny town ceptin’ for one thing. And, it’s not a big thing at all. In fact, it’s the smallness that makes it all the more interesting. Michael Decker was working in his apple orchard when he fell from a tree, injuring his back. As a deeply religious man, he made a vow to construct and maintain this quaint country chapel if the injury would heal. It did and he did. Calling itself the Smallest Church in the United States - you’ll find Decker Chapel on Highway 255 and Earth Road, right across from Wendys. The tiny chapel is a one-story gable-end oriented and clapboard clad wood frame structure. Just measuring 12 feet by 18 feet and containing a single, plastered room. It features a rectangular steeple with an open belfry capped with a cross-tipped, pyramidal roof. The Chapel was dedicated in 1928 to Monsignor Michael Joseph Decker and it was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1998. We found it to be charming if slightly out of place right off the busy highway. Still, this is a small piece of Mysterious America and Seymour would have wanted us to stop by, maybe pray for small miracles in this tiny church.

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SEPTEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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F IRST R IDE - A PRILIA RSV4

DELICIOUS DETAIL; MAGNIFICENT MUSCLE Bill Heald

The very first time I rode an Aprilia, I was fascinated by the machine. If memory serves it was the Falco, a very sporty semi-naked urban assault bike with a 1,000cc Rotax V-Twin engine and truly stunning build quality. Somebody at the time told me that Aprilia was considered to be the Honda of Italy because of their attention to detail and sound engineering, and I was very impressed with this relative newcomer to the US motorcycle market. Once more, Aprilia has been incredibly successful on the racing front pretty much since the company was founded, and that focus is as strong as ever and one of the reason they make such terrific sport bikes. A lot has happened since my time with the Falco, and I’ve ridden many more Aprilias

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and never been less than impressed. The company is now a part of the massive Piaggio group, and is building their own engines and has expanded from many a successful V-Twin to the rather sensational V-Four that powers their new flagship superbike, the RSV4. This ride forms the basis for the machine that at this writing is in First Place in World Superbike with Max Biaggi on board, and is one of the most capable, refined HellBeasts I’ve ever had the pleasure of riding. I should also point out that I’m really glad I didn’t hurt myself with this thing. Oh, and did I love firing it up when leaving the grocery store! If only I could have hired an umbrella girl. . . Anyway, I should start with that magnificent engine. It’s 999.6 cm in displacement, with a very compact 65-degree V-angle and the usual 4-valves per cylinder. The Weber-Marelli fuel injection and Ride-By-Wire management system are very state-of-the-art, with two injectors per cylinder and a very trick adjustable

Quite nice of them, actually. The next mode is Sport, where I left it most of the time, which does something really interesting. You have access to all of the horsepower, but the black box limits torque in the first three gears to help keep the front wheel near the pavement. The final setting, Track, is the unrestricted mode that lets all the torque and horsepower loose at your command. As I mentioned, I think Sport is the best setting for overall street use (although it’s not like Track would cause massive highsides if you so much as breath on the throttle). An interesting thing: there’s no traction control on the RSV4 R although Aprilia could certainly add it if they wanted to. But I discovered that even as powerful as this bike is, it’s still wonderfully tractable and linear so you can control the Hulkish power as long as you’re not a total dweeb with the throttle. Power builds smoothly and progressive-

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mapping system. This is a rider-selectable 3-mode performance tweaker, with Track, Sport and Road settings. Now, Aprilia claims the RSV4 (this is the R model, by the way. A Factory model has many exotic pieces and costs thousands more) puts out 180 horsepower at the crank. My seat-of-the-pants impression says 178.456 horsepower, at sea level, with wind WNW at 5 knots. It is viciously strong. But in the Road mode, horsepower is limited to 140 (my God, what a weasley bunch of ponies) in the interest of making things a bit more manageable, like, in the rain.

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SEPTEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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ly without any weird peaks or valleys that I could discover. There is a slipper clutch in case you are in fact a bit of a dweeb when downshifting the 6-speed transmission, and the ratios are close but quite well sorted for street use and 1st gear is not excessively tall (which can be the case often with racetrack refugees). Before I forget: the exhaust music that erupts from the RSV’s huge silencer is epic. It’s amazingly robust for a stock bike (as is the Ducati Streetfighter, interestingly enough) but also has a totally unique tone and cadence. I really grew to love it. Another pleasant surprise considering this is a take-no-prisoners sport machine is the fact that ergonomically it is not a torture rack. It does have an aggressive riding position, yes, but it is tolerable around town and once you get up to speed on the highway and the wind blast helps prop you up a bit, it’s quite fine. The seat is likewise acceptable, at least for the amount of time it will take you to drain the 4.5-gallon tank (I averaged 26 MPG but c’mon- I had to let it stretch its legs. Constantly). Engine vibes are that wonderful mix of Inline and V-Twin in that the frequency is lower than the former and less throbby than the latter. Again, it’s never an issue and long days in the saddle should be no problem. This bike has a longer wheelbase than many race reps, at 55.9 inches. It’s not rapier-quick in transitions, but turns well when you put some effort into the bars and really holds its line. Stability is excellent, and the fully adjustable suspension in concert with a wispy 406-lb. (dry) weight along with an incredibly stout frame means the big Aprilia is as stable as a bullet train in bumpy corners. Finally, the thing that really makes this amazing V-Four rocket a masterpiece is the superb build quality that is pretty much a habit at Aprilia. The engine plumbing is clean, and the welds on the alloy frame can make a grown man weep openly, especially if that grown man has done some welding in his life. Top all this with a very comprehensive instrument cluster with all kinds of onboard diagnostics and trip computerage, and you have a seriously hard-core performance machine with enough stylish, cool features to more than justify the $15,999 asking price. For more information and to find your closest dealer visit www.aprilia.com

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Backroads Mystery Run

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Making Up National Holidaze We’d Like To See

Facebook has become an interesting phenomenon. This at your fingertips social networking is everywhere and even Backroads has had its page for a year or so now. Over the last few months we have been doing little impromptu rides. A Dinner Run one evening, a Hot Dog Ride another. But, on Friday July 9th we made up a new, should be, National Holiday; we called it “National I’m Not Going To Work, I’m Going Riding Day!” and then we put out an invitation on Facebook to join us on what we were calling a Mystery Run. Not really much of a Mystery, but since only Shira and I knew where we were going the others were riding on faith that we’d come through with at least some good chow along the way. This whole day started a week or so before when a Facebook “friend” Tony talked about this great barbeque joint in Pennsylvania. Always up for decent barbeque Shira and I planned a route for that next Friday and along the way the holiday and Mystery Run came about. The plan was to meet at the Chatterbox Drive-In, in Augusta, New Jersey and then head out along the backroads from there. With these sorts of things we really don’t know who or how many would show but we were please to see that we had a total of nine machines this day and were joined by some old friends

and three new guys that we had never ridden with before - Adam, Jerry and Anthony; on a Kawasaki C14, Dresser Harley and GSXR respectively. As with all groups the ride had fits and starts when we left, with one rider suddenly stopping for who knows what, but soon we were zipping along the woods of Sussex county and then down through Tillman’s Ravine, into the stunning Walpack Valley. We covered the toll at Dingmans Bridge to keep things moving and then sped up in the cliffs towards the Child’s Park area. Mapping out the route we found a little road off to the side called Five Mile Meadow Road. Bearing right on to it I knew right away that the gravel route would be with us till we reached the paved Route 739 some five miles down the road. What I didn’t realize waas just how dusty this road would be. It hadn’t rained in weeks and looking in my mirrors I could barely see my friend Mike’s GS’ headlight through the swirling dust I was kicking up. About two miles into this I regretted bring all these folks on street bikes down this way. I had made an error. With the GPS saying we had only a mile or so to go the road went from simply dusty to terribly gnarly. A recent grader had torn up what Pennsylvania deemed to call a road and left deep sand and fist-size rocks strewn across our path. I felt bad for the folks we knew, but really felt bad for the three new guys - especially the young guy on the Suzuki GSXR - not exactly a great dirt bike by any stretch of the imagination. As always Ben and Sue, two up on a Gold Wing, were just laughing and taken all in stride. Ever since I brought them on 20 dirty miles in New Hampshire they have come to expect things like this. Stopping before the really gnarly part I walked back to offer my apologies and encouragement to the three guys, all of whom are Iron Workers I believe. Yep, they were not happy but they were game. We pushed through the debris and a few minutes later happily popped onto the macadam and motored on towards Lake Wallenpaupack on twisty Blooming Grove Road. We rounded the big lake and headed toward the goal for the day, the famed Kundla’s Open Pit Barbeque in Hamlin.


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Kundla’s was as good as promised and instantly found its way onto the queue of Great All American Diner Runs. Here we ran into Big Tony and his group who had started all this a week or so back.They took off towards some more great riding and we settled in for some of the best barbeque in the Poconos. With full bellies the specter of Five Mile Meadow Road faded away and I promised no more gravel this day. We had planned to continue the loop around the lake and down into the farms that dot this region. Along the way I missed a turn and then Shira missed the waving Flag Gal and proceeded to bring the group down into a roadwork area that was being paved. Making a u-turn to double back she had the Flag Gal step in front of her and, misplacing her left foot, she and her 919 had a minor gravity storm. On the floor she scrambled to right the bike and was helped by Anthony who had sprung off his GSXR to help a damsel in distress. Thank you Anthony. We had to do a minor re-route to get back on our plan; but don’t you know it meant a few more miles of gravel. This was getting to be fun! We rode up and through Promised Land State Park; a place we had ridden past many times but had never ridden through before.

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Well worth the time and the lake there is really stunning. From there we headed due south along Route 390 to Canadensis and bearing onto 447 we made our way, very slowly for a time behind a line painting truck, to Snow Hill Road. This is truly one of the finest and technical roads in the area as it has twists and turns and serious elevation changes along its many miles. For those who had never ridden Snow Hill it was a real treat. From there we scooted towards Bushkill Falls and not too long after, riders began to peel away to head home and just four of us crossed back over Dingmans Bridge and back down to the Chatterbox for dessert. For those of you who rally against these new Social Networks found on the web, don’t be so hasty. We know were having fun with it and every so often, if you frequent the Backroads’ Facebook Page you just might find yourself gearing up for an impromptu ride during a made up National Holiday to some place very special along roads that will both delight and deceive. It’s all good. To download the GPS route for the 160 mile round trip start/end at the Chatterbox Drive-In, including the lovely Five Mile Meadow Road, point your browser here: www.sendspace.com/file/nyfqvk


BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2010

C YCLE S IDEBAR

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GETTING SUSPENDED Mark Byers

The first thing most riders buy usually affects power: an aftermarket exhaust and a remapped engine control. But power corrupts, whether it’s a man or a motorcycle, and if your suspension can’t manage the ponies you have, more aren’t the answer. Suspension isn’t just important to your comfort, it’s central to handling - it keeps both wheels in contact when the road rocks and rolls.

Suspension is also where manufacturers save money and OEM shocks are designed more for price than performance. My SV650 was no exception: the unadjustable, damper-rod forks and preload-only rear shock could be harsh when hitting potholes and the damping left it wallowing in bumpy turns.

Enter Kenny Martin from MRP Motorsports in Glen Burnie, MD: he’s been helping guys like me get suspended since he got out of the Army 13 years ago. A true enthusiast, Kenny got his first bike at 16. At 18, he sold the Chevette his parents gave him in favor of an EX500 and he hasn’t looked back. Kenny even did endurance races, winning a series with teammate Lee Parks, so he knows how to make motorcycles handle. A damper-rod fork is simple: oil is forced through a couple small holes in a rod near the bottom of the slider. Short of altering the holes or the oil, there’s no way to change the damping. There are several ways to address the SV’s forks, including replacement of the front end with that from a GSXR, but I didn’t want to spend that much time and money. Fortunately, Kenny

had the prescription for my problem in the form of two little pills Race Tech calls “Gold Valve Cartridge Emulators.” The tiny, spring-loaded Gold Valves sit atop the stock damper rods and provide multi-rate damping like you might find in a more expensive cartridge fork. While they’re no substitute for a set of adjustable forks, they’re a very costeffective way to improve unadjustable ones. Kenny also set me up with a new set of fork springs tailored to my weight and he made new spacers to match the longer springs. After a thorough cleaning and inspection, including a runout check to see if the forks were straight, he installed new seals and set the oil height. One thing that impressed me about the way Kenny does business is that he keeps the dirty parts of the shop

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SEPTEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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where he does machining isolated from where he builds suspensions. His race trailer serves as a “clean room” where forks are serviced, so there’s a lot less chance of contamination. He does a lot of his own machining and makes his own Delrin spacers, along with special measurement tools. When I was there, he was machining an improved preload adjuster and it

looked better than anything produced by a factory. Compared to the fork, the rear shock was plug and play. We discussed what I wanted for adjustability and performance and settled on a Penske 8983 monoshock with a remote reservoir and compression/rebound damping adjustments. Again, he got the right spring for the combined weight of the bike and me and set the adjustable ride height before installation. He even made a nifty holder to attach the remote reservoir to the rear footpeg bracket. Once everything was installed, Kenny worked with me on and off the bike to make the final adjustments. Just sitting on the bike, it was apparent that neither the front nor rear was as mushy as before. The real proof is in the riding and the bike feels more planted than ever. The front dives less under braking and it’s settled in corners, even when the going is rough. When I did the first rides, the suspension felt a little too firm, but the great thing about an adjustable suspension is that you can tweak it! A few clicks of damping change on the rear shock had me smiling and there’s still plenty of room to adjust. The other great thing about aftermarket shocks is that they’re rebuildable, so the Penske should last the life of the bike. If you don’t do anything else, I recommend you replace or rework the stock suspension: it’s an excellent upgrade or repair that’ll breathe new life into your machine. Until you’ve done it, you’ll never know what you’re missing and once you do it, you’ll wonder why you waited. It’s not just a matter of comfort: correct suspension setup and func-

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FRIENDLY SERVICE • ICE COLD BEER AND ALWAYS SOMETHING TO DO…

Stop by and We’re Sure to Become One of Your Favorite Stops

FREE BBQ on Sundays

weather permitting

‘ You Cook ‘Em…’

Stop by for some great tire-kickin’ and hangin’

SUPPORT OUR TROOPS

TWO POOL TABLES • JUKE BOX • DARTS OUTDOOR SEATING FACING THE AIRPORT “WATCH THE SKY DIVERS”

PLUS … WE SERVE A SIMPLE PUB MENU

The Summer’s Here! It’s Always Bike Night at

AIRPORT PUB!

Rollin’ Fast Cycle Sports

104 Main Street, Lebanon, New Jersey 08833

908.236.9000 • www.rollinfast.com STORE HOURS: MON, TUES, WED, FRI 9-6 • THURS 9-7 • SATURDAY 9-5

tion is a vital part of good handling. It’s also not confined to sporty machines either: when I upgraded the suspension on my R1150RS, even my wife could tell a difference in the control and ride quality as a passenger. You can do some upgrades yourself, but at a minimum you should engage the services of a respected suspension tech like Kenny to help you get the right parts and to consult with you on proper setup, otherwise you’re just installing costly misadjustments. He offers many kinds of suspension products, works on all sort of bikes, and offers dyno tuning, engine work, machining services and fork straightening. You’ll find his trailer at Roger Lyle’s Track Days at Thunderbolt and Lightning raceways in Millville, NJ and Summit Point, WV. You gotta love a guy who sold his first car to get a bike! Contact him at: Kenny Martin, MRP Motorsports, 8154 Ritchie Highway, Suite B, Pasadena, MD 21122. His phone is 410-544-5113 or


BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2010

P RODUCT R EVIEW

Page 41

NOLAN N-43 TRILOGY 6-IN-1 HELMET

Reviewed by Tony Lisanti

The time arrived to shop for a new helmet. After seeing the Nolan ad prominently displayed in Backroads for the N-43 Trilogy helmet I decided to look into it. I wanted to replace my police style open face with something more protective but that maintains an open face for the warm days when I’m on my Harley. The N-43 Trilogy is basically a high quality 3/4 open face helmet with a host of features that allow you to use it as an open face, open with a clear shield or as a full face helmet. The short visor and integral sunscreen round out the remaining variations. The N-43 has a host of features and allows you to quickly configure the helmet to you liking in seconds.

Overall this is a high quality piece of headgear that provides you with the protection of a full-face helmet but converts to open face quickly when you change to cruiser mode. It’s also available with Nolan’s N-COM communication system. The N-43 retails for $239.95 and up. You can find more details at www.nolan-usa.com

MONTGOMERYVILLE CYCLE CENTER Presents

The chin bar and shield are removable with included covers to seal up the slots for the chin bar so critters don’t become entombed while riding. The sunscreen flips up and down with a slide bar on the left side of the helmet. The visor and face shield are removable via quarter turn thumbscrews on each sides. The chinbar is made from GE Lexan® and is EPS lined. The stainless-steel latches secure it solidly in place and it passes the test for full-face helmets of the European standard ECE-2205. It uses the Micorlock adjustable quick release retention system. It works like a ski boot buckle allowing for a tight but comfortable fit. The liner is removable and is made from the latest antibacterial material that helps wick away moisture. It has a venting system on top with a slide shutter to allow air into the top and a rear vent for air to exit. To me helmet vents are a lot like the NY Mets, you gotta believe. My sample came in the Outlaw flat black graphite and looks great; I ordered the medium, which fit snug but comfortably. The chin bar is a bit close to the face but not annoying for me. The face shield and sunscreen both work well. In full-face configuration, the shield does a good job of sealing out the elements without being too loud from wind noise. The shield mechanism is also top notch in that you can keep it fully open at speed without it snapping closed. There are only two positions though- fully open and fully closed. No ratcheting for opening the bottom slightly.


SEPTEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

Page 42

UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR E V E RY M O N T H - W E AT H E R P E R M I T T I N G Saturday • Bergen County H-D/BMW Saddle Up Saturdays and BBQ • 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenharleydavidson.com Second Sunday • Philadelphia Breakfast Ride. Meet at Silk City Diner - 5th/Spring Garden, Philadelphia PA - 8am • 215-922-2214 Every Sunday • Eastern Suffolk ABATE Breakfast Run. Crossroads Diner - Calverton NY. 10:30am. Eat and Ride After • 631-369-2221 First Sunday of the month • Layton Meet at the Layton Deli, corner of Dingmans/Bevans Rd, CR 560, Layton, NJ. Meet around 8am – breakfast available. Join others for a ride or head out on your own Every Tuesday • The Ear - Spring St, NYC. Come meet some fellow riders and do some benchracing or whatever. 8pm-ish Third Tuesday • 7:30pm ABATE of the Garden State, North Jersey chapter. Black River Barn, 1178 Rt. 10 West, Randolph, NJ. 7:30pm. New members and all mc brands welcome. Help fight for rights as a motorcyclist in NJ! Alex Martinez 973-390-1918 First Wednesday of the Month • Bergen County H-D/BMW Hump Day MusicFest. Free concert from 6-9pm • 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenharleydavidson.com Every Wednesday • Country Bike Night at the Airport Pub sponsored by the American Legion Riders Post 132, Franklin, NJ • 6pm - ? • CR 639, Sussex, NJ - next to the airport • 973-702-1215 Every Wednesday • Bike Night at Tramontin Harley-Davidson, Exit 12 of I-80, Hope, NJ • 6-9pm • 908-459-4101 • www.tramontinhd.com Every Thursday • Bike Night at the Chatterbox Drive-in sponsored by Tramontin H-D and Rider Insurance. Corners of Rtes. 15 + 206, Augusta, NJ. Great food, outdoor seating, DJ spinning tunes • 973-300-2300 • www.chatterboxdrivein.com Every Thursday • Red Knights XX PA at the Dairy Queen, Route 209, Marshall’s Creek, PA, exit 309 off Route 80 • 6-9:30pm, weather permitting Every Thursday • Bike Night at The Old Schoolhouse Restaurant, Rte. 206, Downsville, NY • 607-363-7814 Every Thursday • Bike and Boat Nite at Woodport House/Sullivan’s Marina, 125 Route 181, Lake Hopatcong, NJ. 6-10 pm starting May 22. DJ, music, food and drink specials. Partial proceeds to benenfit ASPCA • www.woodporthouse.com Every Friday • Bike Night at O’Toole’s H-D. Open until 8pm. Food available. 4 Sullivan St, Wurtsboro, NY • 845-888-2426 • www.otooleshd.com

SEPTEMBER 2010 3 • AMA Superbike Championship, New Jersey Motorsports Park, Millville, NJ. The most popular event in the short history of New Jersey Motorsports Park was last season’s debut of the AMA Pro Superbike Championship. Already one of the favorites on the series calendar, the event establishes a Labor Day tradition at NJMP for the series and Mid-Atlantic motorcycle race fans. www.njmotorsportspark.com 3-6 • Rolling Thru Vermont. All the magnificence of Americade but the size of a family reunion. Tours, lodging and special activities. www.rollingthruamerica.com 9-10 • Montgomeryville Cycle Center Yamaha Sale-A-Thon with Demo Rides and InStore Specials. 2901 Bethlehem Pike, Hatfield, PA • montgomeryvillecc.com • 215712-7433 9-12 • Killington Classic Motorcycle Rally. Town of Killington. Vermont’s Premier Motorcycle Rally. For more info: www.killingtonclassic.com 11 • Annual 9-11 Memorial Run. Starting in Oxford, MI on Sept. 8 and heading to Brooklyn, NY for memorial services. Saturday, Sept. 11: Meet in Stroudsburg, PA with sidestands up at 9:11am. First stop at Tramontin H-D, Hope, NJ • Arriving 10am; sidestands up 11am; Arriving Brooklyn 11am. For complete details please visit www.911memorialrun.com or call 810-343-0498 12 • Lost Wheels MC 35th Annual Poker Run. Sign in: Dutchess Stadium, Rt. 9D, Fishkill, NY. 9-11:30am. AMA: $23; non-AMA: $25; Under 15: $10. Endsite: Canopus Lake Beach Area, Fahnestock St. Park, Carmel, NY. Live entertainment by Guys Night Out, vendors, food, 50/50, door prizes, trophies, games, ride-in bike show. Awards for Best Rep Club, games, bike show and poker hands • www.lostwheels.com 12 • 2nd Annual Poker Lime Run to benefit Multiple Sclerosis. Sign in: Baer Sport Center, 330 Grandview Ave, Honesdale, PA or Masonic Harmony Lodge #8, 519 Rte. 206, Andover Twnshp, NJ. 9am-Noon. $20/pp. Scenic ride through the Delaware Valley/Kittatiny Range to Walpack Inn for a fantastic meal. Live music and prizes for top hands and best times • 570-253-2000 • 973-948-3890 12 • Larz Anderson Classic European Motorcycle Day, Brookline, MA 17-19 • 3rd Annual Boxer Shorts at Snow Farm Rally. Limited to 40 private double rooms, this spouse-friendly artist retreat center near the Berkshires at Snow Farm in Williamsburg, MA. Great roads and legalized off-roading in nearby October Mtn. State Forest. $140/pp includes full breakfast Sat/Sun and fancy dinner Sat. Pre-reg deadline Aug. 15. For more info and mailing address email vcruz@mediapr.net 17-19 • MotoGiro USA. Finger Lakes Region, NY. Headquarters TBD. For more info: Karl Smolenski and Alia Howard • ksmolenski@yahoo.com • www.motogiro-usa.com 18 • Bergen County H-D Kickass Open House. Vendors, Food, Music and more. 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenharleydavidson.com 18-19 • O’Toole’s H-D Open House. 9am to 4pm. 4 Sullivan St, Wurtsboro, NY • 845888-2426 • www.otooleshd.com 18-19 • Harley-Davidson Long Branch Open House. 9am to 4pm. Free Lunch, live

What’s Happenin’ music, sidewalk sale and more • 671 Broadway, Long Branch, NJ • 732-229-8518 • hdlongbranch.com 19 • 3rd Annual Ride for the Pride Poker Run to benefit Belvidere Lions Club. Sign in: Tramontin H-D, Exit 12 I-80, Hope, NJ. 9:30-11am. $20/rider incl. picnic/bbq with live music at Hotel Belvidere, Belvidere, NJ. Unescorted 80-mile scenic ride through Sussex/Warren Ctys. Cash prizes, door prizes, 50/50 drawing • 908-475-3418 • www.belviderelionsclub.com 19 • Ride for Kids - Philadelphia, PA • www.rideforkids.org 19 • 3rd Annual Pony Express MC Poker Run to benefit American Cancer Society. Sign in/endsite: My Place, 911 Little Britain Rd, New Windsor, NY. 9-11am. $20/rider; $35 two up. Food, door prizes, live music. Non-riders welcome at endsite at 1pm. $20/pp • www.ponyexpressmchv.net • PEMCHV@gmail.com • 845-361-4133 23-26 • Rolling Thru Maine. All the magnificence of Americade but the size of a family reunion. Tours, lodging and special activities. www.rollingthruamerica.com 25 • Cliff’s Cycle Revolution Vintage Days • www.cliffscyclerevolution.com • 203740-1279 • 485 Federal Rd, Brookfield, CT. 26 • AMT Children of Hope Mystery Tour. Sign in/Endsite: Cedar Creek Park, 3340 E. Merrick Rd, Seaford, NY @ 10:30am. $20/bike+rider; $15/passenger. Chicken Wing contest, food and music. Prize for best poker hand. For more info:516-781-3511 • www.amtchildrenofhope.com 26 • Ride for Kids - Baltimore/Washington, DC • www.rideforkids.org

OCTOBER 2010 1-3 • 3rd Annual Color in the Catskills at Hunter Mountain sponsored by MAX BMW. Vendors, seminars, entertainment, off-road school with Team MAX. In conjunction with Hunter Mountain’s 30th Annual Oktoberfest. Discount rooms and on-site camping available. www.HunterMtn.com • 800-486-8376 3 • 2nd Annual Breathe for Britt Ride for Cystic Fibrosis sponsored by South Shore MC. Sign in Renegade Classics, 511 Commack Rd, Deer Park. NY 9-11am.$20/rider; $10/pass; $10/non-rider. Live music, food, 50/50 raffle and door prizes at the after party at South Shore M/C Clubhouse, 6 Seabro Ave, Amityville, NY. 100% of proceeds to benefit Breathe for Britt Foundation • 631-316-3004 • www.breatheforbritt.org 3 • New Rider Club Raffle and Poker Run to benefit Touch of Home Charities. Sign in/Endsite: American Legion, 5th St, E. Stroudsburg, PA - 9 to 11am.$20/pp • Party 16pm. Incl. Run with cash prizes, drawing for $5,000, 5 bonds, food, raffles, 50/50, tricky tray and much more • www.newriderclub.com 7 • COG Northeast Regional Fall Rally. Natural Bridge, Virginia offers first class accomodations and great sport-touring riding. For more information check the Concours Owners Group Northeast calendar of events at www.cog-online.org • 540-582-9414 10 • 2nd Annual Graham Turpin Memorial Charity Motorcycle Rally/Poker Run to benefit Garden State Cancer Center. $25/rider; $15/pass. incl. ride, breakfast (9am) and lunch at endsite. Sign in: Tramontin H-D, Exit 12, I-80, Hope, NJ. Police escorted ride departs 11am sharp • www.turpinfoundation.org 17 • Ride for Kids - Knoxville, TN • www.rideforkids.org 24 • American Spirit MC Annual Tombstone Tour to benefit Hicksville Post of the Veterans of Foreign Wars. Sign in: VFW Hall, 320 So. Broadway, Hicksville, NY – 9 to 10am. $20/rider; $10/pass. Food, music, prizes • www.americanspiritmcinc.com • 516-485-8270 31 • Pikesville Volunteer Fire Co. Inaugural Poker Run sponsored by the Tribe and Baltimore Yehudim Riders. Sign in/Endsite: 40 E. Sudbrook Lane, Baltimore, MD 7:308:45am • Run 9am-1pm • Fun until 5pm. $20/rider; $10/pass. Food, music, prizes, vendors, long sleeve shirt to all participants • www.pvfd32.org

It’s never too soon to plan your riding season. Here are some upcoming events for 2011. If you have your club’s run schedule set, send in your dates to be listed FOR FREE in the Upcoming Events Calendar. You can print out an event form from our website:

www.backroadsusa.com/events.html MAY 2011 19-22 • Concours Owners Group Spring Fling Northeast Area Rally. Penn Wells Lodge, Wellsboro, PA. Nearby camping also available. Saturday buffet dinner included in rally fee. Detauks abd fee information online www.cog-online.org • 978-394-2591

JULY 2011 17-24 • Head off with Backroads’ publishers Brian & Shira for a tour of a lifetime as we join up with Edelweiss for their High Alpine Tour. Ride the roads you have dreamed of in the past - Paso Del Stelvio, the Grossglockner, the famed Dolomites. We’ll even have a day’s ride to Venice. For all the information you’ll need to book this great trip, please email Doris at Edelweiss Travel: doris.waldegger@edelweissbike.com

AUGUST 2011 8-12 • Concours Owners Group National Rally. Green Mountains at Mount Snow, VT. Rally fee includes buffet dinner. Discount for COG members. For more information please visit www.cog-online.org • 978-394-2591


BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2010

Page 43

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT • A COUPLE MUSTANG NOSTALGIC LUGGAGE

Mustang’s new line of Nostalgic Luggage is durably constructed and completely covered in a high quality, expanded black vinyl to perfectly complement Mustang or stock seats. Mustang’s Journey Bag offers a classic look with surprising capacity, handling extended trips with ease. Measuring 18” tall x 14” deep x 20” wide, the total storage capacity including the three side compartments is 3,744 cubic inches. Retail price is $199 studded or $189 plain. Mustang’s Jaunt Bag combines form and function for a very versatile bag. The center compartment expands to hold a full-face helmet; discreetly hidden shoulder straps allow the bag to be worn as a backpack. Sells for $169 studded, $159 without studs. Mustang’s Sunsetter Bag is ideal for day-long trips but, with a storage capacity of 1,800 cubic inches, it can easily accommodate an overnighter. Mounting options include a Tour-Pak with a luggage rack or a sissy bar with or without a luggage rack. Priced at only $129 with studs or $119 plain. Mustang’s Expandable, Throw-Over Saddlebags come complete with an adjustable belt and universal straps and feature collapsible drink holders and a heat-resistant bottom. The total storage capacity is 3,168 cubic inches; $259 per set with studs, $239 plain, All bags include a free rain cover for added protection. Visit mustangseats.com or call 800-243-1392 for more information on Mustang Nostalgic Luggage.

FROM

MUSTANG

MUSTANG WIDE TRIPPER COMFORT

Mustang has extended their popular Tripper(tm) line of seats to include their new one-piece Wide Tripper(tm) with a full 14” width for the driver and 11” for the passenger. Now you can ride on a sleek, low seat and still be comfortable.

The optional driver backrest provides superb back support for those longer rides. It adjusts forward or back, up and down, and pivots to your back angle. The backrest can be quickly added or removed without tools and easily folds to store in your saddlebag. Mustang’s new Wide Tripper(tm) seat with Driver Backrest fits FL 1997up models and sells for $579. For more info, visit MustangSeats.com or call 800-243-1392.

Don’t miss an issue. Subscribe today. www.backroadsusa.com


SEPTEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

Page 44

Z UMO 665

THE NEXT STEP

IN THE

MOTORCYCLING GPS EVOLUTION

A few years back when the zumo series of motorcycle-ready GPS’ were released by Garmin, we were grateful that the leader in GPS technology has seen the worth in catering to the world’s motorcycle riders. The zumo 550 was revolutionary in many ways - and the addition of XM Radio made it even better. The next step for Garmin was the waterproof, vibration resistant zumo 660 - built much like some of their Nuvi-series, it incorporated a larger screen and more bells & whistles than the previous 550. But, no XM Radio - which we felt was a big plus. This season the zumo 665 has entered the game and is the next evolutionary step from Garmin.

As with the 660, gone are the side buttons found on the original 550, instead the big and bright 4.3 screen operates all the modes by a simple touch of the finger - even with heavy riding gloves the action is easy. The 665 comes with an XM antenna (an option for the 550) which allows for NEXRAD radar and traffic updates as well. These services are options that you must pay for separately like any Sirius XM subscription. Money well spent.

As a New York Mets fans we really appreciate listening in on all the games whether I am in New Jersey, Canada or the deserts of the southwest. Getting to listen to the other 170 music and news stations works well too. In addition a Mini-SD card allows for hundreds of MP3 songs to be taken on the road as well as audiobooks and photographs. The zumo 665 comes loaded with the latest Garmin City Navigator that is loaded with millions of “points of interests” that include motels, restaurants, gas stations, ATMs and more. In addition, the zumo 665 offers 3-D building view and lane assist with junction view to show you more of your surroundings and make sure that you’ll know the right lane at the right time. We particularly like when the screen pops up with this feature when on unfamiliar roadways leading us to the correct ramp. This was especially good in Los Angeles. Without this we would have been completely turned around. As for battery life here things get interesting as the 665 claims 3+ hours of battery life compared to the 660’s 5+. I take this to mean the XM Radio will be drawing power lessening capacity - no biggey while the bike is powering the unit.


BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2010

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With the XM Radio I also get temperatures and you can allow for a wide swath of information to be read at the units corners. Altitude, Time to Destination, Miles Per hour, etc; you can also see who and what you are listening to at a touch of the screen. As with all zumo models Garmin supplies Mapping Software for both PC and Mac. This allows for you to be in control...like the Outer Limits and it will allow you to push your routes to new outer limits. Plan your route and then load it up and allow the voice prompts to guide you along your ride. We have been using this for a few years now and have even been able to share these newer, better and more interesting rides with you readers. I personal like the Aussie gal’s voice and I like to think its Claire from Lost telling me to proceed for 2.5 miles and then follow John Locke to hell and back. This program all by itself is worth the price of admission. And, what is the price of admission to the zumo 665 club? The list price for the zumo 665 is $1,000, but it can be had from various sources for much less, and if you do not desire XM Radio you can get the 660 for much less with almost all the same features. Both machines are excellent and have made our exploring of the backroads that much more enjoyable. The combination of GPS technology, XM Radio, MP3s and NEXRAD make the zumo 665 not just a GPS - but an integral part of today’s riding experience. To learn more go to garmin.com.

The 665 features enhanced A2DP stereo Bluetooth connectivity and easily paired up with most of the communication systems we have been testing. Pairing the zumo with my phone allowed for calling and receiving calls on the fly. Personally, for music, we just used the standard headphone jack and wired the zumo 665 right into the built in communications already on our bikes. This seemed to work just fine. Off the bike the zumo 665 does great double duty in the Backroads’ Suburbinator as it comes with a carrying case, vehicle mount and power cable. Just plug and play and I can even steal music from the Mp3 player and run it through the truck’s sound system. Installation on our BMW R1200GS was quick and easy as we have a Cortech Fuse Block and, after running the power cables in a safe manner and using the supplied RAM Mount, we were good to go. Unlike the 550 both 660 and 665 have a mount that allows for you to remove the unit with a push of button. This is both good and bad. Easy to remove for you, and anyone walking by your unattended ride. The aftermarket already has locking mounts available. Compared to the 550 the 665 screen is far larger and brighter - making it much easier to read. At first I did Live Entertainment and DJ throughout the Summer miss the 550’s side buttons as you have to go through a series of distracting touchscreening to simply turn Check our website for full schedule the volume up or down. We fixed that by adding a separate volume control that I picked up at Radio Shack and put it in-line with the jack coming out of the 665. Over time much of the touchscreening becomes almost second nature; but still requires attention that is best kept with the task of piloting your machine. The NEXRAD radar and weather alerts are phenomenal. We have had it warn us on, what seemed like a clear day, that storms were in the area only to spot them some ten minutes later myself. The radar lets you see where they are and plan your next turn accordingly. A ride-saver for sure. Our zumo 665 was one of the very first released and it did have some teething pains with the firmware; but Garmin constantly is updating and improving the software and firmware and newer units, from all we have surveyed, are bug free. You should have no problems these day at all. Along some routes, when not running a pre-planned ride, a little icon comes up to remind me of the legal speed and this comes into play when you ride above the posted limit - a neat touch that I tend to ignore at times.


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BACKROADS MOTO-INN MEMBERS lley’s Hudson Va ne Riding Number O t Restauran Barbeque W North 1076 Route 9 mery, NY Fort Montgo

oute 9W icturesque R Located on P Perkins Drive minutes from State Park and Harriman t Point historic Wes just south of

845-446-0912 rmerbbq.com www.barnsto

MOTORCYCLE-FRIENDLY EATERIES

The Runway Cafe at the Blairstown Airport

36 Lambert Road • Blairstown, NJ Featured in July 2009 Great All American Diner Run

If you go home hungry it’s your own fault

Huckleberry’s BBQ

Best Kept Secret in Greenwood Lake Enormous Breakfasts on Weekends Belly-Busting Lunch and Dinner

As Seen in Backroads’ June 2010

GREAT Food Roads Destination

908.362.9170 The Boat House Restaurant

Member

The Only Outdoor Lakeside Dining on Swartswood Lake

Serving Lunch and Dinner Tuesday thru Sunday 11am - 9pm Closed Mondays

1040 Cty Rd 521 • Swartswood, NJ 973-300-0016

37 Oak Street, Greenwood Lake, NY • 845-477-4737 • www.huckleberrysbbq.com

123 Bantam Lake Rd.

www.theboathouserestaurantonline.com

Ask about our Diners Club. Gift Cards available.

Route 209 • Bantam, CT (Next to Bantam Cinema)

860-567-YUMY (9869)

‘50s-Style Drive-In Restaurant Full and Varied Menu Room for the Whole Gang

www.WoodsPitBBQ.com Open Lunch & Dinner Tuesday - Sunday (Closed Mondays)

Paul Haas • Owner-Chef

As featured in June ‘10 Backroads’ BBQs

IT MUST BE GETTING WARM BECAUSE…

BIKE NIGHT AT THE CHATTERBOX IS BACK! THURSDAY NIGHTS • GREAT FOOD • GOOD TIMES Located at Ross’ Corners • 1 Route 15 • Augusta NJ • 973-300-2300

www.chatterboxdrivein.com

Affordable Insurance

320 Front Street Belvidere, NJ

Life, Health, Critical Illness, Disability, Accident,

www.thisilldous.com • 908-475-2274

Auto, Motorcycle, ATV, RV, Watercraft, Snowmobile

Member

Buy from an agent that rides!

Edward Gilroy Independent Insurance Agent 570-223-5040 office trocky@ptd.net

Jay Park Plaza Marshalls Creek, PA 18335

White Birch Dr. East Stroudsburg, PA 18302

A truly independent agent, working with over a dozen companies to find you the best coverage for the right price!

Sharing your passion for good food since 1983

Bring in this ad for a FREE insurance review of your current coverage. In need of a Notary? FREE Notary service when you bring in this ad.

Enjoy quaint Victorian Belvidere and scenic Warren County

Breakfast • Lunch • Espresso Cafe Ice Cream and Dessert • Catering Off-Premise Worth the ride from anywhere!

Open Daily 7am to 4pm • Sunday 7am to 1pm Try our Full Throttle Breakfast Special every Saturday + Sunday Thisilldous is New Jersey’s best kept secret. Maybe the best luncheonette in the State • Star Ledger


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BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2010

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BACKROADS MOTO-INN MEMBERS

MOTORCYCLE-FRIENDLY INNS

The Riverton

Travel along the scenic backroads of the Delaware river. Meet the Markopoulos family and taste chef George’s Greek American cooking. Best bar menu, lunch or dinner. Fresh poppers, perogies, calamari, clams and crispy wings with 8 different sauces.

Tues. thru Sat. 11am-10pm Sunday: Breakfast 9am-Noon Lunch and Dinner served until 9pm

John, Christina, chef George and Eoanna welcome you and your friends.

The Riverton Hotel and Restaurant

Member of

At Belvidere-Riverton Free Bridge, Riverton, PA

610-498-4241 • www.rivertonhotel.com

Nestled in the heart of Warren County New Jersey surrounded by great roads and scenery

The Narrowsburg Inn & Grille

Perfect for couples or small groups Comfortable accomodations and Comforting food

Located in the beautiful hamlet of Narrowsburg, NY just off scenic Route 97, 1/4 mile from the Delaware

Featured in Best of Backroads 2009

The Narrowsburg Inn & Grille, since 1840, is a warm welcome spot for riders, as a lunch stop or overnight. With an assortment of menus to please the taste and modernized historical rooms to stay in, along with great enterainment, you'll have an enjoyable time at the Inn! 313 Hope Johnsonburg Rd, Hope, NJ

908.459.4884 www.innatmillracepond.com

…your personal heaven on earth!

Located in Arden, only 15 minutes from Philippi, on the beautiful Tygart River in West Virginia, our bed & breakfast is the perfect place to call home while exploring the Mountain state. Rates from $70 - $90 per night

866.909.4262 www.AngelBandFarm.com Box 696 • North River Road • Philippi, WV 26416

182 Bridge St • Narrowsburg NY • 845-252-3998 • www.narrowsburginn.com Open 7 Days a Week (Check for hours) • Rooms start at just $95

The Charlesworth Hotel is New Jersey’s REAL backroads’ hideaway ng Dini c i t n a Rom

THE Place to go when you REALLY want to Disappear

Featured in Jan. 2010 ‘We’re Outta Here’

Comfortable Rooms

Home of the BEST sunset on the Jersey Shore

New Jersey Avenue • Fortescue, NJ • 856-447-4928


SEPTEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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TREBOURMOTORCYCLES

BACKROADS MOTO-INN MEMBERS MOTORCYCLE-FRIENDLY INNS

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Who says you can’t take it with you?! Bicycle/Golf Clubs to Motorcycle Carrier Systems This unique and adaptable system is the most versatile motorcycle accessory on the market today. Handmade in the USA, it enables motorcycle riders to rack their bicycles securely and travel.

Introducing Golf Club Rack Also Harley-Davidson Quick Release System

Non-brand specific • 1% of sales donated to environmental causes • 1% all sales to JDRF

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2010 #1 Inn of D in NY b istinction y NYSH &TA

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(570) 223-1111

JAY PARK PLAZA MARSHALLS CREEK, PA

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Come see us in the Great Northern Catskills Experience some of the most beautiful riding in the world

Walking distance to Hunter Mtn and all its festivals 7872 Main St. / Rte. 23A, Hunter, NY

• 518-263-5025 • www.fairlawninn.com


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MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE

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MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE

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If you didn’t like cool stuff, you wouldn’t be reading this magazine. Here’s something you’re going to love.

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ALL THAT GOOD STUFF

Page 51

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE

Come Ride the Dragon Deals Gap Motorcycle Motel & Restaurant

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS MACHINEART MOTO

INTRODUCES THE

MUDSLING’ AVANT

Machineart Moto, designers of specialized products for BMW motorcycles, introduce the MudSling’ Avant, a patent pending front fender extension that mounts to BMW R1200GS and F800/650GS fenders without the need for drilling mounting holes. The MudSling’ Avant extends the successful MudSling’ rear fender line available for both the BMW R1200GS and F800/650GS and provides extra front fender length to reduce mud, water, tar, and rock splash back onto the engine, pipes, and surrounding components. “A key selling feature is the Avant’s ease of installation with no hole drilling required unlike all other available fender extensions”, says Andrew Serbinski of Machineart. “Not only is it simpler to install, it looks beautifully integrated and is transferable to another bike without leaving disfiguring holes behind, a benefit for resale value”. The retail cost of AV-12 is $89, and the AV-8/6 $79 occupying the high end of the market, commensurate with the design’s functional, installation and appearance benefits. MachineartMoto www.machineartmoto.com is an online store for BMW motorcycle aftermarket products designed by Machineart Industrial Design. Products are also sold through BMW and independent dealers.

NEW PDM 60 POWER DISTRIBUTION MODULE

FROM

AEROSTICH

Welcome to the 21st century of motorcycle electronic power distribution. This compact solid-state, waterproof, vibration resistant fully electronic module lets riders safely and cleanly add electrical accessories to any motorcycle, including those with CANbus electrical systems like the newer BMW’s. It’s got 60 amps total capacity over six circuits with a maximum draw of 15 Amps. Much more than a simple fuse box, the PDM 60 is a completely solid state system, with fault detection and diagnostic LED’s. It is tougher, faster, more efficient, more reliable, and has a longer operating life than conventionally fused counterparts. If a circuit does short, it automatically resets itself after the fault has been corrected, eliminating the hassles of locating, pulling and replacing blown fuses (“Does anyone have a spare 10 amp? I’ll trade you a 5 and a 15 for a 10...”). There are several operational modes for different circuits: Ignition sensing with ‘always on’, ‘timed off’, or ‘ignition off’ configurations allow wiring some devices that need to stay ‘live’ when the key is off, such as some GPS units and radio memories, and others that don’t, like heated grips. One 15 amp circuit is externally switchable with small, low current switches for lighting, etc., meaning no need to add extra relays. Ground buss. Includes all necessary wire connectors for installation. Completely waterproof and sealed to IP67 standards. The new PDM 60 is a lightweight, compact space age electronic system for managing all powered accessories. Only 4” wide _ 2.875” deep _ .875” tall. Part #4745 $109.00 from www.aerostich.com.

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS PARK TOOL 3/8

INCH

DRIVE TORQUE WRENCH

Park Tool Company introduced a new 3/8-inch Ratcheting “Click-Style” Torque Wrench at the Dealer Expo in Indianapolis this past February. The TW-6 enables you to quickly set and apply accurate measurement of torque to the larger fasteners on powersport vehicles. Dial adjustment knob provides precise settings from 10-60 Newton Meters. Includes attached conversion chart to inchpounds and a Protective Case. It comes with a One-Year Limited Warranty, retails for $124.95 and is available from your favorite dealer or online see at www.parktool.com/motorcycle

TWISTED THROTTLE’S DENALI LED LIGHTS - THE BRIGHTEST IDEA IN YEARS

Some companies seem to always be on the cutting edge of new technologies and we have found this to be true from the boys at Rhode Island’s Twisted Throttle time and again. Late last winter I had a discussion with them on a new system of auxiliary lighting that draws minimal power, yet offers the same quality illumination as HID Lights. I had recently installed a serious set of HID Lights to my GS, but these new Denali Lights would run at a fraction of the power and be half the size. As a tester for Backroads I was immediately interested. As a KLR 650 owner I was doubly interested. The compact 2”-square lamps house ultra-bright LED’s with an incredibly low draw of 0.75 amps each. Built into a rugged die cast aluminum body these units are both water and dust proof and have two separate lens to choose from; European Driving style and a wider fog pattern. Now since we have run the HID Lights we have had to replace a bulb on each of the test units we have run on two separate machines. The Denali’s LEDs promise some 50,000 hours of pure white light; and that’s impressive. Another bonus is that unlike HID lights that need to warm up to the correct Kelvin temperature the Denali LED are instant on and off - no warm up needed. You can also stack these units together if need be, offering you even more illuminating options. Installation was on the KLR 650, which has limited electrical output (and that is being nice). Once properly routed and tightened up the Denali Lights almost looked stock - that is until I turned them on for the first time in the darkness of northwestern New Jersey. In all honesty the stock Kawasaki light is a dim bulb at best. The Denali Lights were incredible. Richie Havens sang, “Here comes the sun, and it’s alright!” He might as well have been singing about Twisted Throttle’s Denali LED Lights. They are as bright as advertised and combine that, with their extreme durability, great craftsmanship, longevity and price these lights are a real winner and will see much work on the KLR and the next few bikes that come through the barn doors at Backroads Central. The Denali LED Lights sell for $299 and can be found at Twisted Throttle dealers and from www.twistedthrottle.com

WASHINGTON CYCLE WORKS Check out the Vanson line of American-made leather apparel

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Closed Sun-Mon • Open: Tues-Thurs 9:30AM-7PM • Fri 9:30AM-6PM • Sat 9AM-3PM


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THOUGHTS

TIM WINELAND

FROM THE ROAD

Leaving things behind on road trips is happening to me more and more these days; and I don’t mean just the insignificant stuff like dirty socks or passengers who fail to heed the “Bump Ahead” sign. No, I’m talking about more personal items, the things I’ve grown attached to over the years. Like body parts. I have been fortunate so far not to have lost anything indispensable, anatomically speaking; although I do miss my gall bladder from time to time. It went over to the Dark Side in the middle of a road trip some years back, which resulted in me not only “losing” my lunch but also the respect of the unfortunate folks at the next table. I had a perfectly good molar once that wound up on a plate next to some very savory barbecue. Apparently, I chomped down on a piece of bone, which chomped back, introducing me to the myriad flavors of pudding for the next few days. I was also bitten by a voracious Virginia bug while on a week-long biker binge that turned into an infection, complete with fever and camp-food enhanced nausea. Though I didn’t leave any particular part behind, I did leave enough DNA in the local doctor’s office to clone any one of them. I am not a big fan of misplacing appendages, least of all my own, and certainly not on purpose. The tad of tenderloin or swatch of skin I leave behind isn’t normally part of the plan, but things do happen out there on the road, especially to me (I once got a paper cut tearing open a band-aid). So,

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for me to voluntarily place my trust and delicate internal membranes into the rubber-gloved hands of a nonmotorcycle-friendly doctor took a heap of personal fortitude as well as a few days of heavy drinking. Just before my last road trip, I signed up for a “nasal turbinate reduction”, which is medical terminology for “cattle prod to the schnoz”; a process whereas a nasal obstruction is “burned” away to allow easier breathing - at least until the bill arrives. Although fairly routine, a good nose-melting is still nothing to sneeze at. For one thing, Ear, Nose and Throat doctors now refer to themselves as “Otorhinolaryncologists” which can take upwards of three lines to spell correctly on the sick leave form at work. Also, like most guys, I wasn’t keen on having any body part “reduced”. Never-theless, I fired up my trusty steed and pointed my nervous nose toward the out-patient office. Something indeed smelled rotten the moment the doctor, snatching a broomstick-sized needle from the closet, began explaining just how painless this was going to be - to him at least, ha, ha - because he will first anesthetize the area by thrusting this harpoon up my left nostril. Soon after, a nurse was mopping my nose with a wad of tissues, although most of my leakage had occurred elsewhere. Everything above my neck was strangely numb - something my friends had been telling me for years - and I wondered aloud if this was due to the contents of the “painless” pitchfork or, mercifully, a timely stroke. “Ib by thote sposed do be nubb, doo?” The entire contents of my cranium had liquefied and were running in rivulets down my face, a sensation I hadn’t experienced since my college days. “So, the nurse tells me you ride motorcycles,” he began menacingly. “I never liked motorcycles myself. All that racket isn’t good for you.” I nodded and drooled affirmatively while he fiddled with what looked like Darth Vader’s personal hot-glue gun. I tried to repent, to renounce motorcycles forever, but my uncooperative esophagus only managed to flick spittle on his sleeve “Ibe nod un ub doze”, I tried to explain. “I don hab roud bipes.” He ignored my incoherent disclaimer and instead blasted a batch of epinephrine up my snout, which basically acts like adrenaline - which is what your brain uses to tell your body to “Run, you idiot,


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you are about to die”. Double shots of intravenous Red Bull would have been milder. I was vibrating so hard I was practically transparent. Internal fluids, some of which I hadn’t seen since puberty, gushed from every pore. My fingernails began to sweat. The nurse handed me a wastebasket where I drained the excess residue from my facial orifices, as well as some orifices nowhere near my face. I sank back into the chair and longed for the days of legalized water-boarding. “Yes sir, loud motorcycles are a hazard to public health”, he continued. “I would hate to have to repair your cochleae someday.” He then proceeded to melt my nose. I tried to imagine I was instead riding along a pristine back road with the wind in my face and the sun at my back; and that I had never heard anyone threaten my “cochleae” or any other rude-sounding body part before. Later that afternoon, I was indeed cruising a back road with the wind in my face and the sun at my back; and a wad of gauze up my nostril. I pulled over to gas up and contemplated just how different my life was now that “turbinate” and “nasal-laser” were a part of my riding repertoire. I wondered about the part of me I left behind, and whether it counted as part of my deductible. I also wondered how I was going to pay for the gas, since it seems I left my wallet behind as well.

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Rip & Ride® • OZ’S HOMESTAY 296 FAULKNER ROAD , SHINGLEHOUSE, PA 16748 • 814-697-7218 • WWW.OZHOMESTAY-HUNTINGLODGE.COM 270 MILES ONE WAY • GPS DOWNLOAD HERE: WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/FILE/5HG1BP

START IN PORT JERVIS, NY 97 NORTH RIGHT AT 31 TO GLEN SPEY RIGHT AT 41 LEFT AT 32 TO ELDRED STRAIGHT AT 33 STRAIGHT AT CR 22 BEAR RIGHT ONTO CR 23 RIGHT AT RTE. 97 BEAR LEFT AT RTE. 52 TO NARROWSBURG OVER BRIDGE TO PA IMMEDIATE RIGHT AT CR 1017/RIVER ROAD RIGHT AT CR 1004 LEFT AT RTE. 371 TO HERRICK CENTER LEFT AT RTE. 374 TO W. CLIFFORD

RIGHT AT RTE. 106 (PAST 81) TO KINGSLEY STRAIGHT AT OVER RTE. 11 LEFT AT CR 2024 W TO DIMOCK STRAIGHT AT CR 3023 TO BUSH LEFT AT RTE. 706 W TO WYALUSING LEFT AT US6 RIGHT AT CR 2010 (OVER SUSQUEHANNA RIVER) TO NEW ALBANY RIGHT AT RTE. 220 N TO MONROE LEFT AT RTE. 414 RIGHT 287 TO WELLSBORO LEFT AT US 6 WEST RIGHT AT RTE. 44 LEFT AT RTE. 417 LOOK FOR OZ SIGN ON LEFT NEAR DINER

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BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2010

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R OADTRIP

THE PEAK EXPERIENCE RIDING

TO THE

HIGH POINTS

IN

THREE APPALACHIAN STATES

words and images: Lance Oliver

It’s one of those chilly days that mark that rapid transition from summer to fall to winter as I bank through the turns of U.S. 50 in the northern West Virginia mountains. That’s when I get surprise number one. I’m expecting the cool weather, and I’m geared up accordingly, but snow? That’s right. As I rise further into the Appalachians, white clumps of snow appear in shady spots. Soon, even the roofs are covered in white. This I was not expecting. By the time I make it to my planned destination for the evening, the campground at Blackwater Falls State Park, the road has a certain glazed look to it that encourages me to keep lean angles to a minimum. Surprise number two. I’ve come to these great riding grounds in search of a last burst of high-traction sport-touring on West Virginia’s smooth mountain highways, but that will have to wait until the morning’s sunlight burns away the frost.

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Page 58

Temperatures up here are surprisingly near freezing. Once my camp is set up for the night, I take a walk in the twilight to loosen up leg muscles cramped from the cold and the long ride. That’s when I see surprise number Frosted treetops adorn Blackwater Falls, the centerpiece of Blackwater Falls State Park in West Virginia. When I planned an autumn camping tour, I wasn’t expecting snow.

three. Two black bear cubs crossing the road ahead of me as I walk back into the nearly empty campground. I don’t see the mother, so I take my time to allow them to hurry off into the woods. So far, this little tour hasn’t been what I’ve expected. But the forecast promises plenty of sunshine tomorrow and temperatures near 70 degrees in the valleys. So as I go to sleep in a tent that’s a little colder than I expected, I take heart in knowing I’m smack in the middle of some of the best riding in the eastern United States, and in the morning I have a plan for exploring some of it. About that plan. All of us who are passionate about something will always seem a little strange to those who don’t share our passion. People who nearly come to blows while arguing whether the ivorybilled woodpecker is extinct or not probably have no clue that others

among us divide ourselves nearly into warring camps over our preferences for an air-cooled American pushrod V-twin or an air-cooled Italian desmodromic V-twin. They’re all just motorcycles, right? To which the appropriate response is: They’re all just birds, right? Some of us collect butterflies, some visit every single Major League Baseball park in a single summer, and some of us travel halfway across the country to join thousands of other people on motorcycles at rallies. Another semi-obsessive subset of humanity you may never have heard of is called highpointers. These are people who visit the highest points in each of the 50 states (and sometimes beyond), with all the guidebooks, supportive websites and souvenir T-shirts that inevitably go along with such hobbies. Therein lies the theme for my ride. Not that I plan to become a highpointer, but here’s my thinking: Where the mountains are highest, the roads will be curvy, the populations less dense, the geography dramatic. In other words, all the makings for the kind of riding I favor. Take a quick look at a highpointers map and you’ll see that these 50 spots are mostly spaced out, but there are a few clusters. One of these is the grouping of the highest points in Pennsylvania, Maryland and West Virginia, which are close enough that you can bag all three in a single day, helped by the fact that paved roads lead to two of those three peaks. That’s my plan, as I awake to a chilly but sunny morning and, after an appropriate and personally necessary injection of caffeine, set out north on U.S. 219 for the day’s first high point. To get to the highest spot in Maryland, I have to park in West Virginia and hike in from out of state. Fortunately, the walk isn’t as long as that sounds. Backbone Mountain, Maryland’s highest point On a frosty autumn morning, where are the tire warmers when I need them?


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at 3,360 feet, is easily found on a map. Just look at the arm that extends westward between Pennsylvania to the north and West Virginia to the south and find the very southwestern tip. That’s your spot. Finding it on the ground takes a sharper eye. Riding U.S. 219’s curving, forested slopes, I carefully scan the roadside pull-off areas until I spot the small wooden sign nailed to a tree that reads “Maryland High Point.” Some states make a big fuss out of their highest points, turning them into tourist attractions. Maryland barely acknowledges its. Considering the morning chill, I figure Backbone Mountain will be the ideal first stop on my one-day, three-highpoint tour. Shake off the cold with some brisk exercise before breakfast. Clumps of snow still linger in the shadows as I set out walking up the trail toward Backbone Mountain and the temperature is still in the 40s. Still, halfway up, I’m already breaking into a sweat, even though I left most of my riding gear on the bike. After a steady, uphill climb, I follow Some states invest big bucks in making their highest the ridge to the highest point in Maryland. The trail is barely visible at spots and you may or may points into tourist attractions. Maryland appears to have spent about 75 cents. not consider the endpoint worth the effort. The view from Backbone Mountain, glimpsed through its thick trees, is fine enough. But so are many other views along the road in this part of the Appalachians. Hiking back down the trail, I’m fully warmed up as I continue riding north on U.S. 219, and the road is proving, so far, that my theory was right: The high points themselves may be take-it-orleave-it destinations, but getting there, at least on a motorcycle, is easily more than half the fun. As soon as I enter Pennsylvania on the way to my second high point of the day, I can tell I’m in Amish country from the distinctive hand-lettered signs offering produce, eggs and baked goods for sale (“No Sun. Sales”). I live among Amish neighbors, so I know that also means I should watch out for slow-moving horse-drawn buggies around any given corner, and soon enough I come up on one. It also means watching for the traction-robbing emissions from Amish horses. The spider-web network of little roads on the flanks of Mount Davis provides a few options for reaching the peak. From the town of Salisbury, blue signs point the way. Personally, I think the best route is to take Route 669 about two miles north of the village of Springs, turn left on Oak Dale Road, then left at the top of the ridge on St. Pauls Road. No matter which way you get there, you climb these narrow country lanes, past farm fields where cows lounge gratefully in the autumn sun after a chilly night, and then turn down an even narrower lane to dead-end at the highest point in Pennsylvania, Mount Davis, at 3,213 feet. The State of Pennsylvania has provided a viewing tower on Mount Davis. Handicapped accessible it is not. Amenities are non-existent. Basically, it’s a rusty metal structure, more than 50 feet tall, and as the wind whistles mournfully through its bones while you climb to the top, you may recall that time in high school when your friends dared you to climb the metal ladder on the side of the old water tower outside town... Oh? That wasn’t you? Never mind. At the top of Pennsylvania’s tower, a sign explains why those other rises nearby, which appear to be higher than my current position, are not actually higher. It’s just an optical illusion. I suspect state officials got tired of people pointing out their “mistake” and posted the sign as their way of telling people to shut up.


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With high point number two in the saddlebag, it’s back on the road, for me. After all, the riding is what this tour is really about. Fortunately, the next leg of my tour takes me through some of West Virginia’s best roads. In fact, some riders in these parts say the series of curves just south of the town of Mount Storm, West Virginia, on Route 42 is the best set of twisties in the state. I won’t argue, but how can you choose? In my biased opinion, West Virginia offers the best sport-touring riding in the eastern United States, and picking just one favorite from among so many great roads seems impossible.

Fishermen and motorcyclists are the two groups most likely to make their way down Smokehole Road to the South Fork of the Potomac. Getting to the peak of Spruce Knob is more than half the fun.

At the top of the hill outside Mount Storm, trucks pull over for a brake check and I swoop past them into the relentless series of S-turns that tumbles down the mountainside while windmills on the ridge whirl soundlessly above. It’s a short but

intense bout of second-gear turns with wide pavement to accommodate the trucks. The widened curves allow me to choose a line through the turn while staying safely and legally on my side of the yellow line. It’s almost like a track day, but with better scenery. A little further south, I veer off onto another favorite among local riders, Smoke Hole Road. This hidden gem connects Route 28 and U.S. 220 and along the way it offers 20 miles of perfect back road riding. Many maps suggest that Smoke Hole Road doesn’t connect the two main roads, so it’s hard to say how many riders have missed out because they didn’t think it was a viable detour. Aside from a few fishermen testing their luck on the South Branch of the Potomac River along the southern section of this road, I hardly encounter any other traffic. The northern part is my favorite. Short of giving up pavement, this is the adventurous side of sport-touring. No lines painted on this asphalt. Just bright sunshine dappling the road from every angle after reflecting off millions of yellow maple leaves as I speed alone through thick forests and past tumbledown abandoned farms. To extend my ride, I continue south on U.S. 220 to the crossroads of Monterey, Virginia. Having now ridden in four states on this little one-day tour, it’s clear that each has its own roadside manner. When I enter Virginia, I’m greeted by a sign stating “Virginia Welcomes You,” which is immediately followed by signs ordering me to buckle my seat belt, warning me that radar detectors are illegal, and announcing that littering is a crime (is it legal somewhere else?). West Virginia, by comparison, appears more confident in peoples’ driving abilities, marking more passing zones on its twisty roads while Maryland and Virginia seem to have their roadpainting machines stuck on double yellow. When I cross the state line from the other three states into West Virginia on some obscure side road, the speed limit typically rises from 45 mph to 55 mph.


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Fine views from the flanks of Spruce Knob begin well before you get to the top.

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The advantage of riding south to Monterey is that I can enjoy the turns of U.S. 250. In this region, the big ridges run in a north-northeast to south-southwest direction, so roads that follow the ridges tend to have gentler curves and stick to the valleys. Roads that cross the ridges are full of switchbacks and hairpins. Great fun. And U.S. 250 between Monterey and the West Virginia border is one of many fine examples. (Another not to be missed, if you have the time, is the stretch of U.S. 33 between Franklin and Judy Gap in West Virginia. But really, you can’t go wrong around here. All the roads are good.) I’m running out of daylight, however, so I make time north on Route 28 until I spot the sign pointing up Briery Gap Road to Spruce Knob, West Virginia’s highest point at 4,861 feet and easily the high point, geographically, of this tour. The last time I was here, more than 10 years ago, the road to Spruce Knob was only paved about halfway up the mountain. Now, there’s narrow but smooth asphalt all the way to the peak, and as I climb the mountain, I see autumn unfolding before my eyes. With every 500 feet in elevation, more leaves lie on the ground and fewer cling to the trees. I’m a third of the way up the mountain, with no other vehicle within a mile of me, when a fox chooses that exact and inopportune moment to cross the road. He downshifts from “fast” to “panic” gear while I squeeze the front brake, and thanks to our combined efforts my front tire just grazes the tip of his luxurious tail. Halfway up the mountain, I come nearly to a complete stop while two young deer standing in the roadway try to decide which way to flee, their hooves scratching for traction on the asphalt. A red-tailed hawk, intent on its hunt and ignoring me, swoops across the road ahead, just above helmet level. It’s clear the wildlife own this back country, and we are visitors at best; intruders may be another way of looking at it. At the peak, I see that West Virginia has spruced up Spruce Knob since my last visit. In addition to the new road, there’s also a two-story stone observation structure that’s far more spacious and sturdy than Pennsylvania’s old lightning rod of a tower, a nature trail offering even more views of the mountains, and there’s even a restroom. The sun has long since burned off the frost and snow and is now busy lighting up the dozens of variations of yellow, orange, brown and green that blanket the endless hillsides in these fleeting few beautiful days of fall. The only sound is the wind through the needles of the trees that give the peak its name. As high points go, this is a fine one to savor. But as I ride down the twists and curves of Briery Gap Road, shifting my weight on the footpegs and sighting through the curves, it’s clear I’m not really a highpointer. I’m a motorcyclist. I’m here for the ride, and for me that’s the high point of any journey. To find a listing of high points by state visit highpointing.com

Slow-smoked chicken, Dry Rub Spareribs, Pulled Pork or Beef Brisket and four of our sides.*

37.50

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(Feed 4 and two trips to the fridge after midnight) “There’s not a bird back in town that approaches Big W’s Slow Chicken” –New York Times March ‘07

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–Poughkeepsie Journal July ‘08

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* This month, say “T-Bone said you’d hook me up” and get one free additional side

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Specializing in Ducati, BMW, MV Agusta, Triumph and Aprilia Service• Suspension upgrades •Engine performance

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Saturday, September 26 Food and Refreshments Desmo Swap Meet • Dyno • Photo Studio 41 Ballard Rd • Middletown, NY

www.europeancycleservices.com 845-725-7707


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SEPTEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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C YCLE S IDEBAR

MUSCLING UP BMW’S “LIL” G650 GS

Surprises never stop coming in our twowheeled world and heading up to Americade this year we were happily surprised to find that our friend Nuri had taken the plunge into the Germanic waters of owning a GS. Albeit the smaller G650 - but still a GS and this is a machine that has carried thousands of world explorers safely around the planet and has soundly gotten its well deserved iconic status among Adventure riders. Nuri’s machine came a bit lowered, as she’ll never play for the Lakers, and getting her feet flat-footed made all the difference in her comfort level. Still there were some thing we felt we could add to the GS to make it that much better. The first part of our ride to Lake George was done on the New York Thruway and at highway speed there was plenty of buffeting as the stock shield did little in the way of protection. That would be our first improvement. Americade has plenty of great vendors so it

High Alpine Tour with Backroads and Edelweiss

July 17-24, 2011 • If Not Now - WHEN? Head off with Backroads’ publishers Brian & Shira for a tour of a lifetime as we join up with Edelweiss for their High Alpine Tour. Ride the roads you have dreamed of in the past - Paso Del Stelvio, the Grossglockner, the famed Dolomites. We’ll even have a day’s ride to Venice.

When: July 17 -24, 2011 Yes, 2011 – that gives you two years to get ready to come on Backroads most exciting event ever! There’s only room for so many, so make your plans now! Prices start at just $3360/rider and $2920/passenger. For more information email Doris: doris.waldegger@edelweissbike.com or call us at 973-948-4176.

Ride the Alps, if not now, when?

was easy to find some of the improvements we would want to do to the GS and get them installed right there. We strolled on up to Paul and crew at the large Givi tent at Million Dollar Beach. In addition to selling all sorts of superb luggage for just about any machine on the planet Givi also has a wide variety of windscreens and replacement shields. Not only did they have a replacement shield for the BMW G650 GS, they had one there and we made arrangements to have it installed later that day. The difference between the stock shield and Givi D331ST, which lists for $130, was very noticeable. Still allowing a bit of air moving around our rider it did a superb job at quelling the strong buffeting she was getting at highway speeds.

Our next upgrades were more preventative in nature. As we alluded too Nuri is a tiny gal and even with the lowered machine a tip over could be a possibility, not to mention she lives in Manhattan and bikes take abuse there everyday. So we scooted down the famed Americade Tour Expo and visited our friends at Twisted Throttle. If any one company has some of the most serious toys, farkles and accessories for adventure riders then Eric and the guys at Twisted Throttle are it.


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BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2010

First on were a set of SW-Motech Crash Bars that do an excellent job of protecting both the engine and body work in case of a tip-over or worse. Looking for a bit more conspicuity on the tiny black bike, which has since been converted to a little red bike, we added an AdMore Lighting LED Light Bar - Large with Running, Brake, and standard Turn Signals. This 10.75-inch light bar mounts easily to any flat surface, license plate bracket, or the underside of most rear luggage racks, enhancing visibility with or without a top case mounted. Included are running light, modulated brake light, and turn signals. From the back of the GS this greatly increased Nuri’s visibility. The stock BMW headlight is just passable at best so a set of Twisted Throttle’s excellent LED Denali Lights were attached and wired up by the Twisted Throttle techs as were a set of their Bark Buster Hand Guards. Far tougher than what is available from BMW, these bad boys will do a regal job of protecting the rider’s hands from trees, bushes, branches and the pan handlers on urban NY. With just one quick visit to the Tour Expo at Americade our intrepid rider came out with a far better machine all around all it took was a little help from some friends.

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Sources: GIVI USA, Inc. 9309 Forsyth Park Drive Charlotte, North Carolina 28273 www.giviusa.com Taller Windshield for the BMW F650GS - $130.00 MSRP Twisted Throttle LLC 1080 Kingstown Road, Building 1 , Peacedale, RI 02879 www.twistedthrottle.com AdMore LED Light Bar - $139.00 LED Denali Lights - $299.00 SW -Motech Engine Guards - $195.00


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