December 2023

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W H AT ’ S I N S I D E

MONTHLY COLUMNS FREE WHEELIN’ ........................................ 4

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2023

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Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

WHATCHATHINKIN’ ................................... 5 ON THE MARK .......................................... 6

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

BACKLASH ............................................... 7

Contributors

Mark Byers, Tony Lisanti, Dr. Seymour O’Life

INDUSTRY INFOBITES............................... 8

Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, NJ 07822

MYSTERIOUS AMERICA .......................... 10 BIG CITY GETAWAY................................. 12 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN......... 14 WE’RE OUTTA HERE ............................... 16

phone

973.948.4176

INSIDE SCOOP ....................................... 18

fax

973.948.0823

WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE .................... 32

email

editor@backroadsusa.com

online

www.backroadsusa.com

Advertising

973-948-4176

Follow Us

Backroads-Motorcycle-Touring-Magazine

Tweet Us

@BackroadsGal

See Us

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FEATURES HOLIDAY GIFT SUGGESTIONS ................ 20 FLASHING YOUR BRAIN ......................... 30

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MOTORCYCLE REVIEWS 2023 CAN-AM SPYDER RT ...................... 24

PRODUCT REVIEWS NELSON-RIGG HURRICANE TANK BAG ... 27 MOTOCROSS: THE GOLDEN ERA............ 28 ON THE COVER: Sonny and Famous Face take in the 2023 Can-Am Spyder in the autumn colors.

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2023. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2023

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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2023

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F R E E W H E EL I N ’ BRIAN RATHJEN

DIRTY WORK A bit back I was talking with my friend Jim Banks.

I had just met Jim fairly recently, as he had ridden along with long-time Backroads alumni Mike Mosca and Ken Hilley to Alaska the year before.

Riding to and from Alaska, and especially Prudhoe Bay and back, is a monster trip.

The calcium chloride that can coat the bike is an absolute bear to remove, and it seems to stick around for years afterward. While talking with Jim and Mike, Jim pointed out a bit of the white grit that still lingered on his R1250GS, near the steering stem.

I reached out and touched it, and jokingly rubbed the tiny dot on my head – Ash Wednesday-style.

Jim kind of looked at me, and it was semi-funny – but later I thought maybe I should not have touched it at all. That was Jim’s calcium chloride, and he and his GS earned it.

This thought hit me when I washed my own GS after our Grand Finale Road Rally.

I think all riders of larger ADV machines want to have a layer of dirt, grime, and miles on their machines at times – but for me, I like to clean my bikes thoroughly on occasion; as it lets me take a close look and seek out anything amiss, broken, in need of fix or adjustment.

During this last rally, we had several gravel roads…In truth, I do my best to avoid these unpaved roads during our rallies. Yes, some riders look at them as a fun and exciting challenge – especially solo riders on ADV or dual sport machines. But others are riding two-up, on larger touring machines with road tires which can get tiresome I can understand their trepidation of 10 miles of gravel that goes up and over a mountain – especially when there is a freshly paved road that

snakes around the same big rock.

For me, I had some additional dirt duty as we had one rider MIA on the first night and the only clue to his location was a short, confused, and dying cell phone call about a dirt road just miles to the east of the Cacapon Lodge in far northwest West Virginia.

That evening found me and my GS pounding along a good number of miles of deserted gravel roads of West Virginia’s Appalachian Ridge in a futile attempt to find the lost rider; who, by that time was found and taken to a local ER for a few broken ribs.

It’s funny how gravel and dirt work. In the beginning, you try to get a feel for the surface or lack thereof; but, as the miles go by and confidence goes up, the gravel becomes more and more fun.

A sun quickly dropping to the west was what finally brought me in.

Just a few hours before Shira and I had ridden through a serious tempest. We saw it coming over the mountain but were surprised by the fierceness of the storm. Hard cross-winds, and a hard cold rain that was just about to decide to change to hail.

It was painful and a bit nerve-racking for a good set of miles. From there anything gravely or dirty just clung to the bikes and, by the end of the Grand Tour, the GS and Shira’s Suzuki V-Strom looked as if we had crossed the mountains behind Hannibal’s elephants.

After getting back home I had tons to do, and the GS sat covered with dirt and grime – looking much the worse for wear.

Eventually, I took a hose and bucket to it.

A few years back I did a piece on watching the dirt come off my Aerostich after a long season and the knowledge that the dirt equaled great memories and this same thought drifted through my mind as well this around too.

No one gets through life unscathed. Dirt, dents, scars, and shit happens.

In body, mind, and bikes. Embrace the dirty work – it is part of what makes life so much fun. ,

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2023

WHAT C H AT H I N K I N ’ SHIRA KAMIL

EVERYONE KNOWS IT’S WINDY And Windy has stormy eyes That flash at the sound of lies And Windy has wings to fly Above the clouds The Association Over the past several years - many, in fact - we’ve been watching a good deal of motorcycle racing. Starting with the little ones taking on the Mini Cup at MotoAmerica all the way to the big boys and girls and up to the premier class of MotoGP, we have our race schedules marked on the calendar showing who’s going to be where on any given weekend.

Weather conditions are as varied on these circuits as the landscape and peoples. The European circuits like Portugal, France or Italy might see perfect conditions, with bright blue skies and ambient temps in the 70’s.

It’s pretty much a given that racing at Indonesia will bring unbearable heat and most likely rain of some sort. Silverstone, the circuit in the U.K., can also expect precipitation of varying degrees but with much cooler temps. And once you get to the Land Down Under, you can have different weather conditions from one end of the track to the other.

This year’s Australian GP was an excellent example of the wrath Mother Nature can bring. With the forecast predicting cold and wet with wind gusts of over 30 mph for the race on Sunday, Dorna, the governing committee, made the decision to move the full 27-lap race to Saturday and, ultimately, cancelled the Sprint altogether. However, the Moto2 and 3 races were run, despite these horrible conditions. Moto2, after having nine riders crash and the rest put in danger of the same fate, was red-flagged nine

Page 5 laps into the full 23.

Francesco ‘Pecco’ Bagnaia, current world champion, said, ‘the gusty winds – and the trackside grandstands that shield the riders from the wind until they tip their bikes into Phillip Island’s high-speed first corner – created a safety issue that had to be addressed. If the wind was constant, it’s not a big problem. But the gusts are very intense. In the straight, when it finishes, you start to brake and with a MotoGP bike arriving at 200 mph, it becomes very dangerous.’

As riders, we should know how to deal with weather when it is thrown at us. Besides Rand McNally, a trusted weather app (perhaps an oxymoron) can be invaluable. I know that I would 100% rather ride in heavy rain than high wind (actually, I’d rather ride in neither). Prudence and common sense should always be your guide when having to deal with any dangerous weather conditions - time schedules be damned.

On our trip to AIMExpo in February, we dealt with severely dropping temperatures, high wind and sand storms as we crossed Death Valley.

Fortunately, we had a place to shelter for a bit before things got slightly more bearable. It wasn’t until we reached Las Vegas and heard from others about flipping semi-trucks on the highway that we knew just how bad it was (not that we didn’t know as we were riding through it).

On Brian’s most recent jaunt to California, his route was taking him from a visit with Fred and Cherrie Rau in southern CA up and down, Continued on Page 7

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2023

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ON T H E MAR K MARK BYERS

DELTA SIERRAS The only thing the military loves more than acronyms is using the phonetic alphabet to describe them. One of the favorite ones is to read the term “DS” in the phonetic guise “Delta Sierra” to describe something someone has done that is less than intelligent. Delta Sierra is used as both a description of an act of ineptitude and the person who commits the act. Those of you with a little imagination or a military background will immediately recognize DS (which you will now forever read as “Delta Sierra”) as a cleaner way to say “Dumb Sh__” in front of the children. If you have never committed an act that qualifies as a DS, then you’ve never really worked on or ridden your motorcycle. Allow me to cite some examples, as I have several decades of experience committing and observing DS’s, thankfully with minor consequences.

My latest is hooking up the battery in my CBR-500 backwards. It sounds like a monumental DS until you examine the issue: for economy of space, the CBR-500 battery lays on its back instead of sitting upright.

This requires a sealed battery but also some thought about how the poles are situated. To make the laid-back orientation work, you have to not only lay the battery down, but flip it over as well. I forgot about the laid-back deal and sat the new battery upright in the hole, which places

the negative terminal right in line with the positive wire. Of course, I’d already removed the red plastic cap from the positive terminal and symbols molded into the battery case aren’t that visible in a dimly-lit shed. I secured one side and the minute I attached the other, the fan began to run, the first clue I’d committed a DS. Thankfully, a blown main fuse was the only ill result.

Another time, I was changing the oil on the fully-faired SV-650 without removing the fairing. Smart, right? I saved all that time toiling with Tupperware! As I put the new filter in place, unbeknownst to me, I trapped a little rubber vent line between the filter and the block, seating the filter with the usual hand-tight torque. A couple expensive quarts of oil on my garage floor later, I realized I’d committed a basic DS and quickly shut the motor down after completing my “leak check.” It leaked all right…it’s amazing how fast that little pump moves oil. “I am SUCH a DS!” I exclaimed as I mopped the floor.

Sometimes, you commit a DS while riding, especially offroad. Invariably, those DS’s come right after you say “watch this.” My buddy Dave had a new Aprilia trials bike and he was going to show everyone how to climb a particularly steep hill. Wanting a good run-up, Dave duck-walked the Aprilia backwards toward a nearby stream. He was poised right on the edge of the stream on an embankment four or five feet high, ready to demonstrate how to properly attack the climb. What he didn’t count on was how the stream had undercut the embankment, and just as he mounted the Priller and was revving the motor, the embankment gave way under him, depositing him and the bike into the water below. To compound the DS, after being towed back to camp, he pulled the spark plug and vigorously kicked the bike to clear the water from the cylinder through the plug hole…dousing his wife thoroughly with muddy, oily water in the process.

I didn’t use my own offroad riding career as an example because I only have so many words in this column and my offroad ineptitude could consume pages. One short example is the source of an oftquoted thing Dangerous Dan said after I flubbed a stream crossing on one of our regular routes: “Mark, would you like me to pick that bike up off your leg?”

My earliest DS in the offroad world was to ride my brother’s CT-90 into our concrete back porch, tweaking the forks in the process. I did learn how to loosen the triple clamps and realign forks that way. If there is one positive thing to come from committing DS’s, it’s how to subsequently fix the things you broke. I now know where the main fuse is on the CBR and how to quickly remove the side panel under which it is found. Sometimes, lessons learned the hard way, from your Delta Sierras, are the ones that make the lasting impressions. ,

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2023

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BACKLASH Dear Editors, Loved the article about the new Rivers Edge Restaurant, very happy to see it. The previous owners, in fact, still own the Carriage House on 206 and 521 on Culver’s Lake, NJ, which is excellent. They did a good job maintaining the Berryville establishment. Remarkable is that it was originally as I remembered the beautiful Rebers German Restaurant with tremendously impressive indoor décor direct from Bavaria, very special grand indeed.

I remember spending two New Year’s Eves there, first one around 1966 and driving up the hills from there back towards New Jersey late at night in a snowstorm with an XKE Jag, no less. Acutally stayed in the motel a couple times during the summer, it was also special.

I’m glad the place was rescued from the people that Mr. Reber sold it to originally (not the Carriage House owners) because it really went downhill then for a while. So I’m looking forward to having dinner there again next year.

I remember the Hawks Nest Café too - knew it would never be rebuilt, sadly.

Regard, Hans Dear Brian, After reading your November Free Wheelin’ comments about cell phones being poor and expensive replacements for a dedicated GPS, I’ve decided to (as you said) “put my money where my routes are”. So I’m in the market for a Garmin Zumo XT or XT2, but I’m an noob when it comes to Garmin and need guidance on how to create custom routes and get them into the GPS. To that end, I was wondering if you’d be willing to give me a crash course on how to create custom ride routes and then load them into an XT/XT2 Garmin? I was thinking we could meet (at your convenience) at the General Store in Stillwater, if you can make time for me. Please let me know if this will work, as you are the custom route

Letters to the Editor KING, and I am but a lowly pawn in the game of finding and routing great Backroads. Lunch my treat.

Best regards, Bill Denton • Yardley, PA Hey Guys, File this under ‘never too late to do the right thing’. We had the best time joining Backroads for the Fall adventure. The roads and accommodations you planned could not be topped. The falks, mostly regulars, were open-armed and welcoming. Most of all, the work and responsibility you take on for the love of people and riding motos is amazing. Thank you!

Be well, happy holidays, see you on the road.

Lewis and Kathryn Goldman • Baltimore WHATCHATHINKIN’

Continued from Page 5

through hills and valleys, northeast. On one of his rest stops, he called and said it was pretty windy heading up. After he got to his destination for the night, he sent me a link to the California weather report. Just like the last time we were there, he didn’t know exactly what he was dealing with until he’d landed safely. ‘Babylon sisters shake it…Here come those Santa Ana winds again.’

We’ve all been through it - heading out on a lovely day when it turns to shit; wind, rain, hail, whatever. Mother Nature can be a fickle bitch, and learning to play nicely with her can let you ride another day. We’d rather be running against the wind than be dust in the wind. ,

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INDUSTRY INFOBITES A NEW QUARTERLY RECORD FOR DUAL-SPORT SALES Dual-sports were among the Q3 sales stars as the MIC is reporting that among leading brands, sales of new motorcycles and scooters increased 4.4 percent through the third quarter of 2023, compared to the same period the previous year. Through September, the dual-sport segment was up 6.6 percent.

“The popularity of dual-sport motorcycles is the highest it’s ever been and off-road is steadily increasing,” said Buckner Nesheim, MIC director of Research & Statistics. “The third quarter of 2023 has marked the highest-ever recorded quarterly sales for these types of bikes, and the year-to-date figures also reflect the highest year-to-date sales in the history of the segment. If the current trajectory persists, 2023 is poised to exceed 2022 in becoming the year with the highest recorded sales of dual-sport motorcycles. underneath the general dual heading.

KAWASAKI CELEBRATES 40 YEARS OF NINJA In the 40 years since its inception, the Ninja moniker has become one of the most recognizable motorcycle names in the industry. Since first arriving on the scene in 1984, and officially rebranding the famous GPz900R, the Kawasaki Ninja brand of motorcycles continue to illustrate the pursuit of high performance in every displacement class. To celebrate this historic run in the powersports industry, Kawasaki is pleased to announce the 2024 Ninja 40th Anniversary Edition motorcycles.

In the late 1980s, there is one Kawasaki machine that stood out in the United States: The Ninja ZX-7. Embracing Kawasaki’s relentless pursuit of innova-

News from the Inside tion on the racetrack, the Ninja ZX-7 became the brand’s flagship in the FIM Endurance World Championship, finding its way to the top step of the podium in 1991, 1992 and 1993. Stateside, Kawasaki continued its championship run in AMA Superbike, adding four additional titles in 1990, 1992, 1996 and 1997 to make nine overall championships in the series.

A specially reproduced three-color livery will be found on each 40th Anniversary Edition model, with a large ‘Kawasaki’ logo on the fairings. A special 40th Anniversary emblem designed to resemble a championship sticker can be found on the top of the fuel tank, and the displacement numbers featured on the tail cowl are based on the fonts used in the 80’s and 90’s.

2024 PERMCO AMA VINTAGE MOTORCYCLE DAYS TO RUN JULY 26-28 The American Motorcyclist Association has announced that 2024 Permco AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days will run July 26-28, 2024, at Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course in Lexington, Ohio. Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course will, once again, serve as the venue for Permco AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days.

“Permco AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days has been a long-standing July tradition on the Mid-Ohio calendar attracting thousands of motorcycle enthusiasts from across the country,” said President of Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course Craig Rust. “Next summer will be even more special as we celebrate the AMA’s 100-year anniversary fittingly in its home state of Ohio. We are all looking forward to another spectacular motorcycling gathering!”

AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days is organized to raise funds for the American Motorcycle Heritage Foundation, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit that helps fund the AMA Motorcycle Hall of Fame’s mission to promote and preserve the history

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2023 of motorcycling in America.

Tickets to 2024 Permco AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days will be available soon and AMA Members will be able to purchase tickets at a discount. To join the AMA and take full advantage of the discount, among many other benefits, visit AmericanMotorcyclist.com/join or call (800) 262-5646.

Triumph + AkrApovič Announce Long-Term coLLAborATion The collaboration began in the paddock, when Akrapovič supplied top Moto2 teams with exhaust systems running with Triumph’s 765 engines, including the world champions in 2021 and 2022.

Both Akrapovič and Triumph are known across the world for delivering high performance, premium quality, unmistakable sounds and innovative design.

Nick Bloor, CEO of Triumph Motorcycles, said, “This collaboration is about offering our customers even more choice by extending our range of genuine Triumph accessories. Working with Akrapovič to develop new exhaust systems for our upcoming models, we can give riders the opportunity to enhance the response and feel of their new Triumph motorcycle, knowing that the two have been developed side by side.”

Davorin Dobocnik, CEO of Akrapovic, added, “As a company, we are delighted to be entering into this new collaboration with Triumph. We are honored to cooperate with such an iconic brand with a huge heritage. As companies, we share similar values, and our engineers are already working alongside those from Triumph to develop exhaust systems for Triumph models across many genres of motorcycles, including versions that will surprise many. This is an exciting and important collaboration for Akrapovic, and it is one that we are all eager to be involved with to see what we can achieve as this collaboration grows and strengthens.”

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BACKCOUNTRY DISCOVERY ROUTES SPURS ECONOMIC GROWTH IN RURAL AMERICA In 2022 BDR conducted a comprehensive Economic Impact Study that examined visitor spending patterns among motorcyclists traveling on BDR routes. They have just released the white paper of the study that underscores the role played by BDR riders in bolstering local economies, with BDR-related spending creating an annual economic impact of over $60 million across all BDR routes.

One of the standout conclusions from the study is the substantial positive impact BDR has on small rural communities. As their organization continues to create new BDR routes, it brings a surge of economic activity to these areas in the form of tourism. The influx of commerce extends to various sectors, including hotels, campgrounds, restaurants, gas stations, grocery stores, parks, and more.

In addition, BDR efforts are also growing the sport by creating new adventure riders and driving motorcycle sales. The study found that BDR riders generated $9.6 million in motorcycle sales in 2022. ,

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2023

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Morton’s BMW Motorcycles presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERIOUS AMERICA THE MERMAID MUSEUM

4 JEFFERSON ST (UPSTAIRS), BERLIN, MD 21811 BERLINMERMAIDMUSEUM.COM • SEASONAL HOURS: WED-SUN 11A-4:30P “I have seen them riding seaward on the waves Combing the white hair of the waves blown back When the wind blows the water white and black.

We have lingered in the chambers of the sea By sea-girls wreathed with seaweed red and brown Till human voices wake us, and we drown.”

T.S. Eliot, The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock We were heading to the sea - Chincoteague, VA to be specific. Here they swim the Assateague wild ponies across Chincoteague Bay in July.

We were going to eat oysters, not buy ponies.

On our ride south, we happened upon the quaint town of Berlin, MD. Located about 9 miles from the sea, Berlin was voted the ‘Coolest Small Town in America’ some years ago and, apparently, has not lost its coolness one bit. There are cool stores, a cool hotel, a cool ice cream shop and the coolest place of all - the Mermaid Museum.

Alyssa Maloof - keeper of all things mer - took possession of the space as her artist studio but then had grander plans. As she so aptly states, ‘I got the siren’s call for a mermaid museum.’ She began her research and assemblage of mermaid-related artifacts and pieces from around the world.

In preparation to dive into this project, she spoke with Vaughn Scribner, author of Merpeople: A Human History, a book which tracks the history of mermaids through film, science, myths and more as well as reading Sea Enchantress, a 1961 book focused on the folklore of mermaids. In addition, she delved into the internet to find pieces to exhibit. One of the weirdest pieces she found, and probably one of the least expensive, was a mermaid-shaped Cheeto: a dollar for the cheese puff and $3 shipping.

More ‘realistic’ artifacts include ‘mermaid scales’ discovered on the nearby Isle of Wight and a Fiji Mermaid, one of the most famous hoaxes pro-

moted by P.T. Barnum during the 1840s. These ‘creatures’ were made of the upper bodies of apes sewn to fish tails, with the Fiji Mermaid probably made from an orangutan and a salmon.

While mermaids have been swimming through popular culture in the form of Ariel, Madison and the Starbucks logo, the Mermaid Museum focuses more on the history of the mythical aquatic creature and the culture surrounding them.

The 2,200 square foot room, housed in Berlin’s historic Odd Fellows building, is artfully decorated, with six walls filled with information about recorded sightings of mermaids dating back to the first century by Pliny

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2023

the Elder to as recently as 2017 in California. The artwork is varied and engaging.

Maloof wanted to capture the early 20th century history of Berlin and its architecture in her presentations and with its high ceiling, large windows and openness, you will certainly feel the freedom of the mermaid as you wade the exhibits.

Young and old will find enjoyment in the space, with the warning sign at the entrance reading ‘Nudity and fish nudity. Early mermaids didn’t wear suits.’. There is a treasure chest full of dress-up accoutrement for the

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photo-op sites which will keep the young’uns busy while the adults take in the interesting and informative museum. Wandering the space, you’ll find not only historical facts but fun imagery such as Frankenstein’s Monster carrying away the Mermaid as well as Superman doing the same. There are hidden gems to discover and a scavenger hunt to find little mermaids.

The variation of artwork is intriguing and beautiful. And don’t think you are too old to don a tiara and mermaid’s tail, as the Mermaid Museum will have you believe that such magical creatures did, and do, exist.

Thinking that a visit would be a quick in and out, we enjoyed a good amount of time and learned more about the mer-people than we expected. There is a gift shop should you desire a souvenir - but please remember to return the tiara to the treasure chest.

Before or after your visit to the Museum, take a stroll through the streets of Berlin and visit the other varied shops. You’ll find everything from antiques and collectibles to art galleries and candy shops. There are numerous cafes, coffee shops and restaurants as well as a brewery and distillery.

The Island Creamery scoops up some wonderful flavors and we stepped into Gilbert’s Provisions for some wild boar salami and chorizo to enjoy at the Oyster Festival. The historic Atlantic Hotel, located in the center of town, would make a great spot to overnight to fully explore Berlin and the surrounding areas. ,

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2023

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Warren County Tourism presents

BIG CITY GETAWAY LONGWOOD GARDENS

1001 LONGWOOD ROAD, KENNET SQUARE, PA 19348 610-388-1000 • LONGWOODGARDENS.ORG Oh, no! Not in springtime!

Summer, winter or fall!

No, never could I leave you at all!

From Camelot Now and again you visit someplace that simply blows you away. A place that speaks multitudes – and you know all of it is true.

This month’s stop is such a place.

We have been to Longwood Gardens a few times before, but this was the first time in the early part of the summer – when so much of this famed garden is in magnificent bloom.

There have been many stewards of the land that is now called Longwood Gardens. For thousands of years, the native Lenni Lenape tribe fished the streams, hunted its forests, and planted its fields. Evidence of the tribe’s existence is found in quartz spear points that have been discovered on and around the property.

In 1700, the course of history changed when a Quaker farmer named George Peirce purchased 402 acres of this English-claimed land from William Penn’s commissioners. Over the

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind next several years, George and his descendants cleared and farmed the rich land, and in 1730 one of George’s sons, Joshua, built the brick farmhouse that, now enlarged, still stands today. As the 19th century rolled into the 20th, the heirs to the land lost interest in the property and allowed the arboretum to deteriorate. The property passed through several hands in quick succession until a lumber mill operator was contracted to remove the trees from a 41-acre parcel of land in early 1906. It was this threat that moved one man to take action. By 1850, the arboretum boasted one of the finest collections of trees in the nation and had become a place for the locals to gather outdoors – a new concept that was sweeping America at the time. Family reunions and picnics were held at Peirce’s Park in the mid to late 19th century.

In July 1906, 36-year-old Pierre du Pont purchased the farm primar-

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2023

ily to preserve the trees. But as we know now, du Pont never did anything in a small way.

Born into the du Pont family business, he was able to travel and search out the most magnificent creations.

While traveling, he was also exposed to a wide variety of garden settings, including Horticultural Hall at the 1876 Centennial, England’s Sydenham Crystal Palace, the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew, and the flora of South America, the Caribbean, Florida, California, and Hawaii. Visits to Italian villas and French châteaux focused on the architectural qualities and water effects of those gardens.

In addition to his travels, Pierre also built an impressive record of success in corporate America. This success brought great wealth and he felt a great responsibility to use it wisely. Pierre and his wife Alice gave generously to public schools, universities, and hospitals. But gardening remained his lifelong passion.

At the age of 36, Pierre bought the Peirce farm and soon began creating what would become Longwood Gardens. He followed no grand plan; rather, he built the gardens piecemeal, beginning with the “old-fashioned” Flower Walk Garden. His later gardens would draw heavily on Italian and French forms.

Many generations helped create Longwood Gardens, but Pierre du Pont – industrialist, conservationist, farmer, designer, impresario, and philanthropist – was to make the most enduring contribution.

Today at nearly 1,100 acres, Longwood Gardens is a most stunning

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place to visit. We went to a concert this past summer (Rodrigo y Gabriella) and made sure to get there hours before to take our time and explore, and we needed that.

The Main Fountain Garden is almost beyond words, and simply a pleasure to sit, and listen to the magical combination of the music and the water.

The Chime Tower is like something out of a fairy tale, and the huge conservatory at Longwood has one of the largest Aeolian Pipe Organs on the planet, with 10,010 pipes. It is so magnificent that the World Competition for Organists has been held here several times.

Pipe Organs were the most complex machines invented before the Industrial Revolution, and the organ is amazing in many ways.

The tallest pipe is 32 feet tall, and made of Sugar Pine, the tallest pine trees in the world; the largest pipe creates a very low sound of 16 hertz, creating an earthquake sensation.

When built in 1930, the cost of the custom-built Aeolian organ was $122,700, equivalent to $1.8 million today. However, replicating the Longwood Organ today would cost roughly $11 million.

But the organ is just the cream on top… the gardens are worthy of a long visit any time of the year, as Longwood Gardens has shows, features, and programs year-round. A Longwood Christmas takes place from November 17 through January 7, Winter Wonder from January 20-March 24 and, looking ahead to a renewal of the season, Spring Blooms rejuvenates from March 30-May 5. Some require advance ticket purchase.

It is truly an amazing place and well worth the ride - Enjoy! ,

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2023

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Wanamakers General Store presents

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN THE TWILIGHT DINER

603 N MILL ST, LOGANTON, PA 17747 • 570-725-3911 Although many, many backroads lead to and from the town of Loganton, Pennsylvania – this is a tale of two Interstate Runs; more than a year apart.

Back in 2021 we were making time to Cleveland, and were attempting to put the big Keystone State behind us - roads we have ridden many times – and looking to make the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame by late afternoon.

But, hunger did intrude into our charge across the state, and with bellies beginning to rumble we both spied the sign for a diner called Twilight – right off of the Interstate.

It is hard to catch a name like that and not think of vampires, werewolves, or Rod Serling. But, it was a bright summer day and we thought we were safe.

In truth… we loved this diner; in fact, it was the first thing we wrote about in our August Mid-West BMW Rally story from last year!

So here we were a year later, making time back from our Grand Finale Road Rally and the MotoAmerica Races at PittRace. We had run into friends heading home from the GFRR at a rest stop in western PA and they had the thought of a lunch stop about 60 miles or so east.

Shira and I looked up and said…’The Twilight?’

Indeed… they were thinking Twilight – which they had simply come across…

Ahh, what they say about great minds.

The diner is just a tad south of I-80 at

tasty places to take your bike

exit 185 – but trust us (ha), we’ll get you there on the backroads.

The Twilight Diner is a favorite with locals too. You might think being right off a major highway they would be more traveler-oriented, but it was obvious to us that they are a favorite with the locals… and it’s something that we look for often and always a great sign of a good meal a’comin.

The Twilight is a family affair and Connie King and crew have made quite the name for themselves over the many years of feeding both locals and those on the road.

We’ll run through their menu quickly…although some of their offerings had me looking twice.

From the appetizer section, they had the usual suspects but were offering Fried Green Beans, Pork Pot Stickers, and Buffalo Rangoons. Nice.

The salads were big and healthy looking with Grilled Chicken, Chicken Caesar, and Steak and the Chef’s salad was more than impressive with Turkey, Ham, Swiss, and American cheese. The Burger that came our way was done to our exact request…. Just on the done side of pink- sometimes it seems tough to get a well-cooked burger these days.

Not at The Twilight – they got this right.

You can also order one of the Diner Specials – with sandwiches created with Hot Roast Beef, Turkey, or Meatloaf (Yummy!). They also offer superb Liver and onions – Hey, you love it or hate it.

Although it did not head to our table, we did see the Honey Stung Chicken fly by… maybe next time.

The Twilight has stellar deli sandwich-

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es. When we first stopped in, I went for my standard Turkey Club – two pieces of whole wheat toast, please.

I thought it was the best. So, just to be sure – I ordered it on our second visit as well. Shira rolled her eyes at my predictability of ordering food at a diner. But, that is not always true…I order Gyros on occasion too; and we hear The Twilight does an awesome version of the Hellenic staple – even if they are 5,000 miles away from Greece!

The menu rolls on with subs, pizza, strombolis, and much more.

On a bright sunny riding day, you might want to take your meal al fresco, in the cool as it were on The Twilight’s deck.

As you can tell we like The Twilight. It may not be the fanciest of places, nor right on a picturesque road.

But the food, the people, and the ride we will spin you through is going to be oh-so-good. We’ll get you going from Hermy’s in Port Clinton, PA on a 113 mile jaunt. So, eat a very light breakfast, strap on your helmets, and get going…You’re burning daylight, and Twilight is coming! , Download .gpx here: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/qg7gcs

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Wytheville VA Tourism presents

WE’RE OUTTA HERE EAGLES MERE INN

29 MARY AVENUE, EAGLES MERE, PA 17731 570-525-3173 • WWW.EAGLESMEREINN.COM Now and again you ride to a very special place and you know it.

We felt that way years back when we spent some time in the Eagles Mere region of Pennsylvania.

For us, the riding is spectacular – especially in and around Worlds End State Park.

We certainly were not the first to know this part of the Endless Mountains was special; hundreds of years ago the Iroquois called the lake “Walpaleechen”. It was so bountiful with game that no one was allowed to live here – it was a hunting ground for all.

After the Civil War people began to come to this bucolic part of the Keystone State – and those looking to escape the more urban life in the cities looked to Eagles Mere – the new name of the lake and surroundings.

In 1886 a civil engineer named Embley Chase came to the area. Chase had a plan and he had the drive and began developing street plans,

a weekend destinationkeeping you on the backroads building water and sewer systems, and bringing electricity to the community. He was credited for many of the things for which the town was quickly becoming famous, including the Toboggan Run. In the late 1890’s a number of large hotels were constructed and visitors from nearby Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Harrisburg would flock to Eagles Mere for the cool mountain air.

These turn-of-the-century resorts pampered their guests with putting greens, bowling alleys, tennis, croquet, and shuffleboard courts. It was a grand time in Eagle Mere where women in long dresses carried parasols and men donned 3-piece suits.

After World War II many things had begun to change in the tapestry of America – fewer city folk were vacationing in the mountains. Some of the hotels burned down and the others went out of business. With the hotels gone, many people thought Eagles Mere would simply fade away. There were, however, several constants throughout all of Eagles Mere’s history that would never change: stunning natural beauty, clean, fresh mountain air, and the generations of families who

came here; families that were determined to keep Eagles Mere unspoiled for generations to come. Thanks to their efforts Eagles Mere remains on the National Register of Historic Places.

Just off the main road of Route 42, down Mary Street is an inn that has been happily taking care of travelers’ needs for decades – The Eagles Mere Inn. In a town where they value the charm of yesteryear, originally built in 1887 by A.C. Little, the Eagles Mere Inn has done a superb job of constantly updating its amenities and comfort, while still seeming magically, holding onto the things that made the lake and the town so precious to begin with, an understated elegant history and flavor.

Much of what we saw as we rolled up was familiar, yet different.

Big things like the wonderful wood exterior, and the huge porch, which beckons to be seated on with a good book – especially nice towards the sunset with the Sol, making her run west, tossing a golden light across the bikes, porch, and pages.

A new red brick walkway spans the building and the exterior redone with a stately shaker look, with a copper porch roof and gutters. The workmanship is truly beautiful to see.

The inn has been designated by the National Trust

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2023

as a Historic Hotel of America – and well deserved.

The inn celebrates Eagles Mere’s history with period pieces, and great art, and each of the 17 rooms are named after historic places and events from Eagles Mere.

We found our room, The Country Club, to be very comfortable – excellent bed and bedding, and superb shower – always a plus after a long day on the road. Other rooms include The Sweet Shop, the Lewis Glass, and the Water Carnival. The Eagles Mere Inn has the perfect room for you.

Although Eagles Mere is a very happening town during the warmer months, we visited on a stellar Tuesday in early October, and it seemed as if we had Eagles Mere to ourselves.

Before dinner we strolled the town, stores that were open during the summer, and weekends we reclosed, but the lake and the “On Cue” Bald Eagle perching above us were worth every twisty mile of our ride out there.

Even when the town is quiet the Eagles Mere Inn has its restaurants - The 1887 and bar A.C. Little’s Drinkery. During the warmer summer months there is the On the Rocks Patio as well.

Perhaps it’s us, but given the choice of a hotel with a fine in-house restaurant, and a place that

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makes us get back on the bikes to go eat – we will choose comfort and convenience every time.

The one dining room is on the entrance level for breakfast, but downstairs at A.C. Little’s Drinkery was the happening spot this Tuesday with a good and friendly crowd, attentive staff, and superb… superb food!

Some men, whether they admit it or not, look at other men’s women.

I do not. But I do look at other men’s plates. Women’s, too, for that matter; thus there was a lot of culinary voyeurism this night.

We suggest going to the Eagles Mere Inn’s website to see all we describe here and the full menu. But we will say the Wings, Wild Boar Sausage, and the burger Shira built were outstanding – maybe some of the best wings we have had in a long time (Mikey B. take note).

In addition to all the excellent roads this part of Pennsylvania has to offer, the town of Eagles Mere has some special things as well – one being the museums found at the local airport.

Three distinct museums – one full of classic aviation history, an auto museum that knocked our boots off, and the motorcycle museum – that is focused on Superbikes of the 70s – one of our preferred Jeopardy categories.

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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2023

TASTY TOUCAN ICE CREAM

400 LOVE POINT RD, STEVENSVIILLE, MD 21666 410-657-4008 • TASTYTOUCAN.COM • OPEN YEAR ROUND - CHECK FOR HOURS Sitting in the Chesapeake Bay on the piece of land known as Kent Island, at the eastern terminus of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge, you’ll find the little town of Stevensville, Maryland. Kent Island is the largest island in the Chesapeake Bay and was the location of the first European settlement in what is now Maryland. Long before the Europeans, Kent Island had been inhabited for nearly 12,000 years. Between that period and the Europeans, it was called home by the Matapeake tribe who were members of the Algonquin nation. By 1631, William Claiborne, who did the survey for the Jamestown colony, settled on the island, built a fort and established a trading post. Jumping ahead, in 1952 the Chesapeake Bay Bridge was built, linking Kent Island to the western shore and opening tourism and commerce. Restaurant and hotels dotted the island, giving the boating community and residence of the island access to the luscious seafood available here.

Stevensville was founded in 1850 from the sale of land owned by James and Charles Stevens. It prospered as a major hub for steamboat travel across the Chesapeake Bay. Today you will find an artsy community steeped in history and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The town’s historic sites are open to the public on the 1st Saturday of the month from May to November and include the Cray House, the Old Stevensville Post Office, the Train Depot, the Bank and Historic Christ Church. You’ll also find a fine example of one of the oldest trees on earth - the ginkgo - which grew in North America during the times of the dinosaurs.

In addition, there are several festivals throughout the year highlighting the area’s arts culture.

This day, we were meeting our friend Larry for lunch on our way back from the Chincoteague Oyster Festival.

Stevensville happened to be a central spot for all of us, and Brian conveniently chose a bbq spot right across the street from the Paul Reed Smith guitar headquarters. Luckily for our wallets, it was Sunday and they were closed but that didn’t stop us from parking in Paul’s spot and snapping a shot or two. Doing a little web searching, I found a spot not too far in the historic district for dessert and a stop on the Inside Scoop - Tasty Toucan Ice Cream.

When all the world was shutting down in October of 2020, Nikki Neboshynsky decided to take a chance and open a shop serving handmade ice cream and pops using fresh fruit and local dairy. Growing up in Maine, Nikki had access to her grandfather’s farm-fresh strawberries and blueberries. After 20 years in the marketing and design industry, with the luster beginning to wane, Nikki turned her attention towards making people happy, which had always

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2023

been a very strong urge. What better way to make people happy than to give them quality ice cream in a happy, inviting environment.

Sitting on the corner, across from the Stevensville Welcome Sign, is the tropically-colored and very inviting Tasty Toucan. Scattered around the building you’ll find bistro tables and the seating area around back has some games to entertain young and old. Stepping inside you’ll feel like you should be greeted by a hula girl placing a lei around your neck, as the menu signs are shaped like surfboards, with palm trees and the sweetness of waffle cones filling the nostrils and an island music soundtrack. Our visit, just a short time before their 3rd anniversary in October, a Halloween pirate adorned the entrance.

Nikki, the Chief Tasty Officer, has developed some joy-inducing ice cream flavors with everything from Vanilla Bean and Chocolate to Strawberry Shortcake, Coconut Joy and Beans and Cream.

Her Artisan Ice Pops, made with whole fresh fruit and organic ingredients, tantalize the tastebuds with such flavors as Pink Lemonade, Pineapple Coconut and Mint Chocolate Fudge. The ice cream is crafted at a family-run Pocomoke, MD, dairy farm by Penn State-trained ice cream scientists, while the vegan dairy-free popsicles are crafted on sight, as well as some non-dairy/vegan ice cream.

I took some time to listen to the fine tunes and make an ice cream decision, as I wanted everything offered.

From a simple scoop to a Fundae concoction such as Chocolate Overload, Holy Fudge or I Want S’More, it was almost overwhelming. Their milkshakes are Instagrammable - Banoffee (toffee crunch and nana nilla ice cream, salted caramel and whipped cream), Buckeye (vanilla ice cream, peanut butter powder and buckeye candy pieces with a peanut butter drizzle and whipped cream) or Samoas (chocolate and coconut joy ice cream, shortbread cookies, caramel and whipped cream). Craving some cake? How about some mini donuts or a cookie sandwich. Still can’t make a decision? They’ve got you covered with either a 6 or 12 flavor sampler.

I finally got a cup with Beans and Cream and Coconut Joy while Brian, having two of his favorites on the menu, ordered up a Cookies N Beans Milkshake (Beans and Cream and Cookies and Cream ice cream with Oreos). We sat outside on the beautiful autumn day and enjoyed our desserts; Nikki had accomplished her mission - to put a smile on our faces.

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I hope that you’ll find yourself in this little piece of sunshine in Maryland and get to enjoy as well. , WE’RE OUTTA HERE

Continued from Page 17

If your riding group or club takes five rooms at the Eagles Mere Inn they will organize a “private tour” of all these museums and more.

We got to do just that and … well, this airport and the collections need its own feature in Backroads.

We can not speak highly enough about The inn, the town and the region. Perhaps if we ever do another Backroads rally – you will find us vectoring right back to the Endless Mountains.

Ride Smart, Ride Often, Ride the Backroads… ,

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T

he calendar has been torn down to its last page, the leaves have all disappeared from the trees, we’ve gone through the Halloween decorations and the trees and menorahs have all come out. The winter holidays are in full gear, with the office, club and family parties taking up most of the weekends. Whether you partake in gift exchanging or simply are looking to reward yourself for making it through another year, here are some ideas, big and small, to satisfy any rider in your life, even you.

We wish you safe riding, fun adventures and that 2024 brings you miles of smiles and twisty roads.

SW-moTech DrybAgS • STArTing AT $94.95

Drybags have been a staple of the SW-MOTECH luggage range for years. The bags have consistently proven their value as added capacity or as a standalone solution for any motorcycle or trip. The completely waterproof bags can be attached to a passenger seat, rear rack, crash bar or other luggage. After such a long and successful run, it’s no surprise that SW-MOTECH is leveraging decades of experience with drybags to update the entire line.

Offered in six sizes, the updated materials create a more supple bag, making them easier to handle, roll and unroll—whether they are empty or fully packed. Each of the full-size models has a carry handle to easily adjust your load. A new buckle and strap configuration make it easier to stack and connect to each other and a shoulder strap - sold separately - converts to a travel bag. MOLLE panels are an addition to several bags and to all but the smallest Drybag 80, there is an exterior welded zipper pocket. Rounding it out with new bold graphics, SW-Motech’s Drybags would be a welcome addition to any riders travel portfolio. sw-motech.us

GRYPHON PYRENEES JACKET The Gryphon Pyrenees Jacket is a versatile waterproof/breathable four season two-layer jacket system in a ¾ length. With ten strategically placed vents to increase airflow and a relaxed fit to maximize your range of motion, you will stay comfortable through any riding condition. Included with the Pyrenees is superior AAA CE Level 2 protection, two large exterior waterproof pockets, plus plenty of interior storage with the Gryphon Max Storage System and the removable Hiking Day Puffer Jacket. This jacket is an easy choice for any rider!

Available in 3 colors in both men’s and ladies sizes.

Killer riding gear from a family owned and operated business. Created based on sound fundamentals of quality and design. Gryphon prides themselves on thinking “outside the box” and utilizes their 40+ years of experience in the motorcycle industry to create awesome protection, stylish and functional designs, constantly reassessing and improving. www.gryphonmoto.com

ZEROFIT WARM SHIRT Zerofit was founded in 2005 by Koji Higashi in Japan because he could not find a suitable clothing option to continue his sports when the weather turned extremely cold. Enter the award-winning Heatrub Ultimate baselayer, introduced in 2011 to the Japanese public and since expanded worldwide and sold to hundreds of thousands of outdoor enthusiasts.

We have found that our Zerofit Heatrub baselayer is the ultimate go-to when the weather starts to turn cold. Constructed of acrylic, nylon, wool, polyester and polyurethane, the combination is melded perfectly to seal body heat within it, thereby creating warm air and providing instant heat. The extra-long fibers create heat when they are rubbed against your skin, allowing heat to be maintained within it. This means you will feel warm the moment you put it on and remain warm while riding. It hugs the body so is designed to allow freedom of movement - no bulky ‘Michelin Man’ feeling that you’d get with multiple layering. It packs down, so you can always have it at the ready for those temperature changes while out riding. Sold in sizes XS to 3XL @ $90.

Pair it with the Ultimate Leggings and you will extend your riding season - sizes S-2XL @ $99. zerofitusa.com

JuSTriDe5 bASeLAyer • $85 We came across JustRide5 at a BMW Rally. Chris Briggs, along with Jenn Guerriero, have developed some of the nicest designs for women’s base layers which incorporate warmth, beautiful fit and functionality. Constructed of moisture-wicking, anti-microbial and UV protecting breathable fabric, all base layers are long sleeve with thumbholes to aid in the ease of putting on a jacket. The extended torso helps to stop any unwanted breeze sneaking in and the high collar with covered zipper aids in wind protection. The Secret Side pocket is very handy to stash cash/credit cards without being bulky or in the way. There are more than a dozen designs from which to choose, including a balaclava hoodie, coming in sizes S-XXXL (if you find some on sale, snap ‘em up). Justride5.com

EARPEACE We’ve all heard it - the rushing sound of the air, the traffic noises and everything else in the world that is out to destroy your hearing while riding. If you didn’t damage your ears in your formative years with loud music or other clamorous activities, it really behooves you to protect them while you are riding.

EarPeace, developed by Jay Clark in 2008, was designed originally for musicians and, over the years, expanded to include motorsports and safety. We have used the EarPeace for a while and have found them to perform exactly as described - allowing a small, precise amount of unobstructed sound in so you maintain situational awareness.

Coming in two options - Original ($29.95) and PRO ($39.95) - you can choose which fits you best with dual-flanged changeable plugs constructed of silicone, which are soft and easily conform to different sized ear canal shapes. There are different sets of noise filters in medium (17dB), high (20dB) and max (26dB) and a carrying case. You owe yourself some peace - check out the options at earpeace.com

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2023

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moTorcycLeS coLoring book by bruce LAFonTAine • $5.95 When was the last time you went at a coloring book with gusto.

We know there are all sorts of “Adult Drawing” books these days, but unicorns and stylized pattern of nature are boring after a bit.

But what if there was a coloring book that got us right where we live? Get us the Crayolas and colored pencils.

We came across Motorcycles, by artist Bruce LaF ontaine. Chronicling over 100 years of motorcycle history, 45 accurate, finely detailed illustrations depict a splendid line of motorized cycles, beginning with the Gottlieb Daimler Motor Bicycle ( 1885) and ending with the Honda ES21 F uture Motorcycle Concept Prototype.

Other machines you can ‘get creative” with include Excelsior, BMW R31, Norton Commando 850, Brough Superior 680, and so many others.

Along with the cool, but colorless art, you will find an extensive caption accompanying each illustration identifies the manufacturer and provides details on horsepower, materials of construction, weight, speed, and other data.

LaF ontaine has a number of other very cool coloring books including Classic Cars, Muscle Cars, and F amous Trains as well. You can find the Motorcycles Coloring Book at www.aerostich.com/motorcycle-coloring-book.

kerShAW bArricADe bLADe • $40 A bulwark against unpreparedness, the Barricade has all the key features needed in an emergency knife all wrapped up in a bright orange “see me” package. A carbide glassbreaker is built into the butt end. The sculpted glass-filled nylon handle offers a secure grip whether in glassstriking position or when using the blade. If needed to free a trapped victim, the built-in cord cutter will zip through seat belts and cord quickly and easily.

A value-priced rescue knife with standout features & standout color, this 8Cr13MoV blade steel takes and holds an edge, resharpens easily and the black-oxide coating adds blade protection. Kershaw’s assisted opening helps for easy one-handed blade deployment.We carry Kershaw blades all the time – they are more than knives. They are tools. They can be lifesavers. A great gift for a fellow rider or for yourself. kershaw.kaiusa.com/barricade

LocknFLATe • $49.99 How often do you check your tire pressure? If you are a daily commuter, at least once a week; if you are a Sunday rider, certainly before each ride. Here is something to make that very necessary task that much easier - the LockNF late Air Chuck.

While most air chucks claim to be locking, they are simply lacking. The LockNFlate allows you to use both hands to fill the tires. It does this by utilizing six spring-loaded steel jaws that lock tightly around the valve, ensuring the tightest of seals.

On machines with straight valves, this works brilliantly. If your machine has that torturous bent angle and needs a small chuck, the same company sells the Pro F ill Air Chuck ( $42.99) which has a multi-angle adapter to reach those hard to snatch valves.

The LockNFlate Air Chuck is rated to 150 PSI and its ¼ NPT Tread fits most standard air hoses. locknlube.com

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moTopump AirShoT 2.0 • $89.99 After you’ve made sure that your air pressure is proper, let’s talk a little about when it’s not. Should you pick up that errant nail which will deflate your day’s ride as well as your tire, let’s make sure that you have the proper equipment to fix it quickly and get on with your day. After you’ve plugged the tire (you do have a tire plug kit on your bike, yes?) you’ll need to get it up to pressure and MotoPumps has just the thing - the Air Shot 2.0.

With a reasonable power draw at 7.5 amps at max pressure, excellent performance and reliability, the MotoPump Air Shot 2.0 Inflator is one of the smallest (fits in the palm of your hand), lightest (just over a pound), full-performance 12v inflators on the market. The entire kit (necessary connectors, SAE, combo cig/BMW plug, battery clips, battery terminal rings, 6’ power cord and an 18” air hose) is packed into a heavy-duty Cordura zippered case and even comes with a lanyard so you can hang it off a foot peg while doing its job. motopumps.com

BUGSLIDE When you are taking stock of your tank bag contents, hopefully it includes something to keep your face shield clear of smattered bugs and debris. There are quite a few products out there, aside from soap and water, to accomplish this task but we’ve found something extraordinary.

BugSlide is a complete waterless detailer that cleans, shines and degreases while removing bugs and other surface contaminants with ease. It leaves a protective, microscopic finish that continuously repels dust, dirt, water and fingerprints. It is free of abrasives and safe on all non-porous surfaces.

We have been using BugSlide for quite a while and are still amazed at how quickly and easily even the crustiest of carcasses are wiped clean from face shield and fairing. And it smells pretty good too.

Available in sizes to fit the tank bag to gallon refill bottles - the BugSlide Saver Pack at $61 includes a 4 oz. travel kit, 16 oz. shop kit and 32 oz. refill bottle along with micro fiber towels - gifts for several riders. Bugslide.com

norTon SongS by ArT SiroTA • A COLLECTION OF AWESOME SONGS ABOUT THE JOYS AND SORROWS OF OWNING A CLASSIC BRITISH BIKE When I began this, I was reminded of the great Who’s Line Is it? ‘Greatest Hits’ sketch when Ryan Stiles, Colin Mochrie, Wayne Brady and the talented Laura Hall would lampoon the TV commercials for the same style.

“Hi… we’ll get to our Million Dollar Movie thriller, ‘Al Hitchdick’s ‘Pychcle’ in a second but first we want to ask… Do you ever wonder what happened to those great motorcycle tunes that made you remember your youth?

Do you think fondly of the hours broken down on the side of the road? That tan beach girl you were never gonna get, or maybe that old Rocker and their bike being abducted by aliens?

We don’t either, but do we have a special CD for you…

First a little back story: Many years back a friend sent me a bunch of motorcycle songs – in this eclectic collection, there were a couple of songs about Nortons, written and performed by a guy named Art Sirota.

Slingshot to the end of October and columnist Mark Byers and I were in California, and outside our hotel sat a pristine 1950s BSA. Bikes always get Mark’s and my attention – but this British machine was worthy of taking in a deep look, and it was outside the lobby every day.

One evening Mark texted me to say the owner of the BSA was outside. Mark said he was a musician too. He wrote and sung about Norton motorcycles and had a CD collection of them. The next text really got my attention as three of this guy’s songs - Surf Norton, Boom Shaboom - My Engine Just Went Boom, and Elvis’ Norton - were already on my phone; part of the motorcycle songs I got years back.

Our motorcycle world is a small one, and very cool as well. I scooted downstairs and found Mark and Art. Art Sirota is a very nice guy, and I think a bit stunned when I brought his music up on my iPhone. When he did his CD, back in 1998, he wanted to have each song be of a different genre. Early ‘60s doo-wop, California Surf Music, even Rap. There are a total of 11 Norton-based tunes, all different, cleverly written and wonderfully performed. ‘In the Home Stretch’ was particularly touching…. reminiscent of Patrick Simmons, of the Doobie Brothers, Cannonball.

You’ll find Norton Songs and his other CDs on Apple Music and from Tower Records.

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roAD Dog pubLicATionS • bookS For The bAckroADS oF WinTer For some reason, maybe the longer nights, lack of long road trips, and the lower temperatures, I find myself reading a bit more in the darker months than during the summer.

Years back my go-to source for interesting motorcycle reads was the revered White Horse Press, but Judy and Dan are out exploring the world these days, and we have become acquainted, and friends with, Michael Fitterling and Road Dog Publications.

What sets Road Dog apart from the thousands of publishing companies on the planet is that they specifically publish books on motorcycle riding, motorsports, travel, and adventure.

If Backroads was a book that went on a shelf and not a magazine that goes to the loo, Road Dog Publications would probably be publishing it.

Over the last few years, as Road Dog has come out with several new titles we have accrued a few great missives. Some of the authors we were familiar with – Ron Davis, from the BMW MOA magazine, Shiny Side Up, and the sequel Rubber Side Down which has superb thoughts, musings, and words about riding and the day-to-day life of a motorcycle rider. These two books had us laughing out loud and sometimes sheepishly thinking… “yup, yup, yup…”

Then there is Steven Sherrill’s book – ‘Motorcycles, Minotaurs & Banjos.’

I got to speak a bit with Steven and in his own words he stated about M, M &B that the book was not about him finding himself. He knows who he is.

Steven is a high school dropout, a nearly retired professor, a family man, a ne’er-do-well banjo player, a motorcyclist, an aquarist, a sonic/video muckraker, and a novelist with five books in the world, one of which (The Minotaur Takes a Cigarette Break) has become a cult classic.

This book is about twenty-one days and sixty years old. A motorcycle ride down the spine of Appalachia, with a little banjo and big myth for company, to play and sing at the graves of seven dead banjo heroes.

About making a life about making work. This book is about outsiders. Interlopers. Class migrants. Motorcycles. Myths of all sorts. Death. Decisions. Awakening. Creative Process. Growth through risk-taking. It’s a book about ghosts. Music. Writing. Not writing.

It’s big as travel books go, but I chunked this book into the small easily recognized bits.

Then there is ‘A Year in Motion’, written by Road Dog publisher Michael Fitterling. This is a book about the Road to recovery – after a few years of recovery from a horrible eye accident, and finally, back on the bike, a quick and violent deer collision knocks the author back down.

Wrist surgery is followed by more recovery…then another setback. On the eve of his return to riding, the sight in the good remaining eye darkens at the edges—a detached retina. The next day he was in surgery again…and recovery…again. In his mid-sixties, the time left to ride to all the places he’d dreamed about now seemed limited, but he vowed to himself he was not done yet.

The doctors say he can ride again. Between then and the following October, 24,000 miles roll under the wheels of the new Tiger he’d bought to replace his wrecked Bonneville as he explores the United States. These are the stories of that year in motion.

These are just four of dozens of books you will find from Road Dog Publications. If you are looking for some good two-wheel reads to help journey through this coming winter then log onto their website at www.roaddogpub.com you will have plenty of titles to explore. ~ Brian Rathjen ,

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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2023 It was back in 2007 when something… different rolled into the motorcycle world. It looked like no other machine, and some states even had issues with just what to call it.

Can-Am called it the Spyder.

For more than a decade now Can-Am has been letting the Spyder evolve with the market, and the market for this threewheel machine is partly driven by those who might never have considered a traditional motorcycle, with a full 27% of Spyder owners having no previous motorcycle experience.

But, a bit more important in our eyes, is the rider who, for whatever reason, had to forsake the joy of the open road.

We have seen these riders returning and that is awesome in every respect.

We took possession of the new RT model – that comes with sleekly built-in luggage and is powered by a three-cylinder 1330Ccc ACE engine bringing 115 horsepower to play.

The machine also comes with an ECO Mode (no comment) and vehicle stability control – but a bit more on this later.

The RT is the not so basic - basic; but BRP makes two upgraded versions - the RT Limited and its top-o-Line Sea to Sky – each an additional $4,000+, which includes a muchneeded 47-liter top case, better sound system, self-leveling suspension, and the Sea to Sky edition rolling with a very sexy Green Shadow paint job.

After some discussion it might have been good that BRP did not lend us the Sea to Sky edition – very nice indeed.

But, we are here to talk about the Spyder RT, and how the machine works in day-to-day living.

This is the third Spyder we have reviewed and although they were all fun – each time we took the keys we had to etch-a-sketch the way we think about riding. The Spyder is not a motor-

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2023 cycle. It is more of a road-born snowmobile – which one could expect from the company that invented the snowmobile.

A bit of snowmobile history….

In 1937, Joseph-Armand Bombardier was granted a patent for the firstever vehicle that could travel on snow, developed in his garage in Valcourt, Quebec, through determination and daring.

Three years earlier Joseph’s son Yvon died of peritonitis at the age of two in the winter of 1934. He was unable to get him to the hospital for treatment during the harsh Quebec winter. The man was driven and 70 years later his company would head off the snow and onto the pavement.

On the road…

Once again – this is not a motorcycle and if you get onto it thinking two-wheels (or especially after watching MotoGP or World Superbike) you might be in for a rude and painful awakening.

With my mind clear of preconceived notions and relaxed (hopefully) muscle memory I snapped the semi-automatic transmission that is deftly handled by two fingers on the left gear-switch and got rolling down the road.

The Spyder, which sits you a bit less than 30 inches off the ground, offers an upright position for the arms, and an almost cruiser-like position for the legs – not my favorite, but it allows for an easy use of the one brake on this machine – the foot brake that smoothly and powerfully applies the two four-piston Brembo calipers and single rear caliper onto the large 270mm disc.

The peppy engine moves you down the road with authority and shifting, both up and down, is quickly and seamlessly handled by a push of the buttons.

The transmission also has a reverse gear, much needed with this big, over 1,000 lbs. Spyder.

To turn a Spyder you must turn the handlebars in the direction you wish to go – with authority. There is no counter-steering in BRPland!

Insisting on this will cause you grief.

Page 25 That being said the more time spent running around with the Spyder RT the more confident (not cocky) I became.

The Spyder’s fuel tank will hold 7 gallons and BRP claims 250 miles on a fill-up. We say a comfortable 200 – either way that is a good thing.

The base RT had the two saddlebags, and the “frunk” up front, as well as a glove box atop the gauges that also carries a USB power plug and will allow you a place to hook up for phone via cable to the bike, as well as a stash for the phone.

All Spyder RT models come with premium LED headlights for higher visibility on the road and a 10.25-inch touchscreen display with BRP Connect & Apple CarPlay for better connectivity. You can Bluetooth your phone easily enough. I was able to do this, so that is the best example of ease of use I can give you. You can also link this to your helmet as well.

All very Gen-X and earlier.

Although I do like music through my helmet’s headset and personal ear plugs, I detest loudspeakers on motorcycles – or in this case, the Spyder’s 4-speaker sound system operated by the handlebar control module or buttons on the tank.

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The Bottom Line…

The Can-Am Spyder is an unusual ride in anyone’s book. It’s different, fairly easy to ride and a blast once you get comfortable with them.

For hard-core motorcycle riders, who are healthy, strong, and talented, the Spyder might, maybe, be a secondary toy.

But, for those looking to get onto the road for the first time and are intimidated by conventional motorcycles, the Spyder might just be for you.

If you are a long-time rider who has given up and put your helmet in the closet, due to injury or circumstances, two-wheel riding has become problematic or forever closed to you… then I strongly recommend you take a look at any of Can-Am’s Spyders. They are a Godsend to those who long to get back out on the road and looking to ride back into the game.

See you on the road! ~ Brian Rathjen ,

Still, I was able to listen to World Café on a busy highway at speed, with the Spyder’s speakers offering up a very clean and listenable sound.

The more miles behind me the more comfortable and intuitive riding the Can-Am Spyder became, and with the saddlebags always along for the ride it became a day-to-day vehicle for chores, and runs to town and the gym.

I recall the first time we reviewed one of these machines and how it got double-takes everywhere we’d go. Not so much today as there are more and more of these three-wheel machines on the road and they have almost become ubiquitous.

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PRODUCT REVIEW

THE NELSON-RIGG HURRICANE DUAL SPORT/ENDURO WATERPROOF TANK BAG

Once you get used to a tank bag, you don’t want to be without one: they’re perfect for storing all the items you need for long, happy days on the bike. Lots of firms make tank bags, but the “peaky” tanks and large fuel caps of Enduro and Dual Sport bikes makes it difficult to find one that fits. Nelson-Rigg solved that problem nicely with their Hurricane Dual Sport/Enduro Waterproof Tank Bag.

I used the Hurricane bag on two different bikes during the Shenandoah 500 Dual Sport in Virginia: one day on a 2018 Kawasaki KLX-250S and the next on a 2003 Honda XR-250R. I am pleased to report that the Hurricane bag was quickly and securely installed on both bikes, even over the big fuel cap of the XR, although I did remove the vent hose (no issue).

The bag rode far enough forward to be out of the way when I stood up on technical sections, but far enough back so as not to interfere with full rotation of the bars. For fueling, I merely released the two front clips

and folded the bag back against the seat. Elastic keepers kept the loose ends of the straps perfectly restrained and the connectors nicely in place when the bag was unclipped.

Despite the sometimes rocky terrain, the bag remained motionless as the bike bounced underneath thanks to the buckles through which the straps were snugged.

It rained Friday night before the ride and the bag not only stayed dry inside, it also stayed dry during multiple enthusiastic stream crossings over the next two days. My iPhone was well protected under the clear window on the top and the screen was still operable through the window - a really nice design. The interior divider kept

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Page 28 items separated and from rattling around and there was ample room for a multitude of things, including a point-and-shoot camera, reading glasses, extra gloves, maps, flashlight, and compass and I didn’t even fill up the bag. The little mesh zipper pocket under the top was perfect for my registration and insurance cards.

The Hurricane bag is well built: it’s a combo of electronically-welded PVC tarpaulin, a waterproof lockable zipper, and a neoprene flap to protect the zipper. The nylon straps are long enough to ensure easy mounting to a variety of bikes and have elastic keepers for tidy loose ends. They even sell the straps separately so you can move the bag between bikes. The bag comes with a lifetime warranty and is available through Nelson-Rigg or one of their retailers - MSRP $99.95. See www.nelsonrigg.com for more details, images, and downloadable mounting instructions. For bigger ADV bikes, they have the equally-brilliant Hurricane Adventure bag.

I really liked the Hurricane Dual Sport/Enduro bag and intend to run one on both the KLX and XR from now on. Once you’ve experienced the convenience and versatility of one, you won’t want to be without it either. ~ Mark Byers

BOOK REVIEW

MOTOCROSS: THE GOLDEN ERA BY DAVID DEWHURTS

Dave Dewhurst grew up in England and at an early age became hooked on scrambling and motocross. He would race through hills of England doing his best imitations of the professional riders he would see at Motocross tracks throughout the country. He was lucky enough to turn his passion for motorcycling into a career, first, as a photographer covering local races, then as a local reporter covering weekly motocross and trials events. In Europe he witnessed seasoned riders graduate to the national ranks, then become world champions. His efforts landed him in Los Angeles working for Cycle Guide magazine.

In his book, Motocross: The Golden Era, the history of riders and innovations of the 1960’s is chronicled, but the focus is on what he affectionately calls the Golden Era, the period between 1970 and 1986. Sixteen years doesn’t seem like a long time now, but that era spawned more legendary champions and technical innovations than any other period.

Many of the innovations are taken for granted on today’s machines.

No book can chronicle the history of Motocross without a deep dive into Roger DeCoster’s career. Having won 5 FIM World Championships in a vastly more competitive era with machines that were cutting edge, but in many cases unproven and unreliable. That’s why he is simply referred to as The Man. His photo is appropriately on the cover of the

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book. No one has done more for promoting the sport than DeCoster. The chapter on Decoster’s racing career is compelling. Followed by the chapter on The Machine, his championship winning 1976 Suzuki RN 500. During this golden era, the factory machines evolved from production based four stroke single cylinder machines modified for the track, to purpose built lightweight fire breathing 2 strokes. It was a technical arms race of sorts between the European and Japanese factories, and we all know how that turned out.

The book looks back at how the sport originated in England in the 1920’s and chronicles the evolution up to that 16-year period. Dewhurst points out that motocoross machines didn’t change much prior to the 1970’s. Names like Gary Jones, Brad Lackey, Bob Hannah, David Thorpe, and many others influenced the racing and the machines. There are a number of other names that were not superstar racers, but equally responsible for the sports growth and innovation. If you own a motorcycle with a single shock rear

Page 29 suspension, then you owe a thank you to Luciens Tilken who experimented with the design in the early 1970’s. Tilkens shopped his hand made protype around until Yamaha finally relented after their world champion contender rode it and started winning. In those days, grass roots experimentation would require a rider to convince the corporate factory engineers to use a newly discovered technical advantage. Many failed, while others gambled and found success.

Mike Goodwin did a much as anyone to make motocross, and Supercoross specifically, into the modern era. Considered the father or Supercross, his story ends in a sordid affair with him in jail. Iconic brands such DG Performance, Fox Racing and Simons have their story told in the book.

If your motorcycle has inverted front forks then thank Steve Simons.

Simons developed an answer to the demand for long travel suspension by developing and building the first inverted fork system, proven on Brad Lackey’s FIM World Championship RM 500 from 1981.

To this day many manufacturers pay royalties to him for his design.

There are countless other features in the book, including the rise of Supercross, Europeans vs America riders, and the ultimate works bike.

The 1985 Honda RC250 was as exotic as a Formula 1 car.

Costing over $300,000 each at the time, it was considered the pinnacle of Honda works technology.

I found this book simply magical as it returned me to a time when I followed the sport as a young fan and saw many of these riders and machines firsthand. More than a coffee table book, it offers a history lesson of the men, machines and technology that shaped and changed motorcycles forever. Available from motocrossthegoldenera.com ~ Tony Lisanti

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MOTORCYCLE UPGRADE

FLASHING YOUR BRAIN “Brain? What is brain?”

Kara – Spock’s Brain TOS Flashing an ECU is tuning or reprogramming the engine of your motorcycle to take what the manufacturer sold you and (ideally) enhance its performance. So, what is an ECU anyway? A motorcycle’s ECU, short for the Engine Control Unit, will sometimes be referred to as an ECM, or Engine Control Module.

Basically, it’s the bike’s brain.

It controls how your engine works, its performance, and fuel consumption.

Before engine control units existed, this dance of ignition timing, gear position, your combination of air and fuel, throttle position, coolant, and air temperatures, as well as idle speeds had to be set and controlled mechanically.

Thanks to this regulation over your motorcycle’s fuel lines ECU can then be considered an electronic engine management system, or EEMS. At the heart of this, your ECU plays a significant role in the fuel supply to your engine. Unfortunately, standard ECUs in motorcycles can often be a long way from ideal and are designed for a variety of fuel qualities, outdoor conditions, as well as types of riding. The stock quality of these engine control units can leave something to be desired when it comes to the performance of your bike.

Some machines, like my Kawasaki Z900RS, have been electronically tuned for better fuel economy, and many find this particular machine very twitchy – especially in low to mid-range.

In the never-ending search to be green (Kawasaki is green, right?) the manufacturers have built bikes with engines that run way on the lean side.

Less fuel, and more air = much more heat, along with the questionable throttle response.

Computers are great – and today machines can do so much that bikes, even a decade ago, could never do.

But computers are only as good as the programming, and many riders these days are looking for better programming in search of more performance.

I did a bit of research and asked other riders who have already gone down this road for a bit of advice.

There are several performance shops to be found that will “Flash” your ecu. To Flash means to change the programming on your bike.

This is not done lightly as a badly reprogramed ECU is a brick – but done correctly and with experience and you can make a good bike great,

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2023 and a twitchy machine far more linear in its response to positive wrist management.

After several weeks research, I settled on a company across the continent - 2 Wheel Dynoworks is based in Kirkland, Washington (2wheeldynoworks. com), and has flashed and dyno run thousands of motorcycles.

They have been doing this for years and have the winners and trophies to prove their merit.

After talking with them a bit I was convinced that, running with a stock machine and exhaust, I would get a modest horsepower increase of maybe 4-5 HP, but a far smoother machine – running richer, and better all-around. What I was excited about was the promise of a smoother throttle. More linear and easier to manage, especially in more aggressive sport riding.

This was really what I was looking for.

Removing the ECU was easy… like Bones said in Spock’s Brain – a child could do it – which was perfect for me.

I packed up the ECU and sent it out on the Friday before Labor Day and got it back that following Thursday… six days with a holiday weekend in the middle – nice.

Installation back into the Kawasaki Z900RS was fast and I did not need that fancy helmet like McCoy did to get it back in.

With all buttoned up it was time for a little test spin.

We all have our own ‘Private Idaho’ road… so a long lap of the lake around County Road 521 offered me a good feel, knowing where the machine’s foibles were, to where it was at now.

I have to say, from the get-go, the bike ran far smoother and pulled more evenly from low-speed rpms to a sporty pace.

The exhaust, which was always one of the better of the exhaust tones available on a stock machine, had a bit more growl.

More importantly, and the reason for all this, the throttle was smooth.

No more twitching. Even flow, all the way.

Trail braking into the tight left, then right, then left going south around the bottom of Swartswood Lake was suddenly far more fun.

No guessing, or worry that the throttle would not be anything but predictable.

The Kawasaki felt much like Shira’s Honda 919 - a bike that is basically the same on paper, but without all the electrics, and with a 20-year pedigree.

But, technically diving into your machine’s ECU might void your warranty.

For those that abhor drawing out of the lines, or using different crayons, this might be a no-no. But, if your warranty is not a concern, then consider a professional ECU Flash… it just might smooth out your relationship with your motorcycles. ~ Brian Rathjen ,

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The Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. presents

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully

A column dedicated to your riding survival As newbies, we have to focus hard to learn how to clutch and shift, and LET’S GET YOU THINKING PART 3

A couple of months back we started some thoughts that were bandied about in early July via email between Fighter Pilot Tim “Wedge” O’Toole, Motorcycle Safety Maven David Hough, and publisher Brian Rathjen.

Here are the last comments, and we hope your takeaway from all this is to talk amongst your fellow riders and friends about what is good, what is bad, what you want, and want you need to avoid while riding these machines we love so much…

From David…

I suspect that there are ways to teach Situational Awareness, but certainly, it’s not done in state rider training. One of the reasons for my pocketbook, Street Rider’s Guide is that it’s just one hazard after another.

I came to realize that SA starts with just believing that you can spot hazards out there.

When the late Keith Patchett was in the USAF in Japan, his CO called him in one day and asked if he rode a motorcycle. “Yes? Great. We’re losing way too many people to motorcycle crashes. I’m assigning you to do whatever it takes to get the numbers down. Dismissed.”

Keith just called ongoing meetings of anyone on base who owned a motorcycle. I was eager to learn what curricula Keith used. No planned lessons, he responded. I just start talking about hazards and situations, and they start realizing that they CAN spot situations in advance. As Keith put it, “These aren’t dummies, it’s just that no one ever told them they could learn to spot hazards. Once they started looking, our crash numbers dropped.”

I once read of a curriculum in one of the northern European countries, Finland perhaps, where the instructor gave each student a Polaroid camera and sent them out into the nearby town to find and record all the motorcycle hazards they could find. I chuckled when I hear of this, because back then I believed in the value of teaching control skills such as cornering, braking, swerving, etc.

Looking back, I think they had a good idea there.

From Wedge…

So, yes, it’s necessary to have at least rudimentary control skills, but few crashes seem to happen as a result of lacking skills. The majority of crashes in the USA are with the bike slamming into something, often at a high velocity. I realize that it cuts against the grain to suggest that our macho riding and ignorance of common hazards is the primary contributing factor in crashes, but the science seems to support that theory. The morbidity of a motorcycle crash seems to be a function of impact speed, regardless of gear.

Crashes occur more often when the rider was exceeding the speed limit. And once a crash is set in motion at speed, physics makes it very difficult to take evasive action.

Another part of this equation is that our control of the bike is automatic, which is to say “subconsciously.”

ten years later we just think “shift up” and it happens like an automatic transmission. I suggest that motorcycles are no different from flying, music, sports, or other rapid-action skills. We just don’t have time to think through every little action in real-time, so the subconscious has to take over. I suppose we could opine that what it means to become skilled is to train the subconscious to be highly proficient at the action so that the decisions about what needs to happen can become the focus of the conscious.

I also subscribe to the theory that people have different skill sets that make them OK, good, or great at whatever tasks are given to them. One former AF pilot/flight crew training instructor described a mission in Vietnam that scared the shit out of him. It was the proverbial dark stormy night, and he was doing his best to hold a position at the far end. Suddenly he realized the boss had initiated a sharp left turn, and he was being left behind in the clouds. He released his bombs and hit the afterburner to catch up.

By comparison, I was once in the simulator with another instructor. To obtain photos or video of cockpit situations I needed to schedule a simulator, which typically would be a third shift, and in addition to the talent and shooter, I would need a sim-certified instructor. To get someone to come out in the middle of the night, my payback was allowing extra time to give the instructor seat time. This guy was in the navy reserve and a weekend warrior. So, to give him something extra to deal with, I sat back at the sim instructor console and started dialing in faults. Fuel imbalance, excessive crosswind, engine one turbine failure, etc. He handled them all, heading south into Boeing Field. About a mile out I failed the right engine, too. He dropped the ram air turbine to get navigation back, put that thing in a crab, dropped the gear, and kissed the runway right on center.

In other words, he had the right stuff to make a great pilot.

Comparing that to motorcycling, I think we make the mistake of believing that the quality of a motorcyclist is measured by his speed on the racetrack, and many times that is not enough to get you home. ,