October 2021

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W H AT ’ S I N S I D E

MONTHLY COLUMNS FREE WHEELIN’ ........................................ 4

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2021

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Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

WHATCHATHINKIN’ ................................... 5 ON THE MARK .......................................... 6 BACKLASH ............................................... 7

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

Contributors

Mark Byers, John Cirabassi, Pamela Collins, Frank Palmeri, Dr. Seymour O’Life

INDUSTRY INFOBITES ............................... 9

Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, NJ 07822

MYSTERIOUS AMERICA .......................... 12 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ......... 14 BIG CITY GETAWAY ................................. 16 WE’RE OUTTA HERE ............................... 19

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phone

973.948.4176

fax

973.948.0823

email

editor@backroadsusa.com

online

www.backroadsusa.com

Advertising

973-948-4176

FANCY COLOURS ................................... 24

Follow Us

Backroads-Motorcycle-Touring-Magazine

CALL ME A FAN ...................................... 30

Tweet Us

@BackroadsGal

I KNOW THIS PLACE ............................... 37

See Us

backroadsmagazine

INSIDE SCOOP ....................................... 22 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE .................... 38 UPCOMING EVENTS ............................... 40

FEATURES

PRODUCT REVIEWS BUNGEES AND BAGS ............................. 32 GIVI FRAME SLIDERS .............................. 34 ALPINESTARS TECH 7 BOOTS ................ 35 BRIDGESTONE BATTLAX ST TIRES ......... 36 TOURATECH BMW TFT ANTITHEFT ......... 39

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2021. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2021

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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2021

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FR E E W H E EL I N’ BRIAN RATHJEN

ALL IN THE FAMILY? I was sitting with Mark Byers on some wooden stools at a riverside Tiki Bar overlooking the Potomac River in Colonial Beach, Virginia. We were parked for the night and Mark and I were in deep conversation, while Shira and Betsy were in theirs. While there, several 1% club members had pulled up and were busy carousing and enjoying the mid-summer feel to the day. On the other side of the parking lot, a couple on a Gold Wing rolled up. I watched as they parked and spotted the two young people – guy and gal - riding down the street on small machines, a scooter of some type and a Kawasaki Z125. All this got Mark and me talking about how different, varied, wide and sometimes strange our motorcycling world is. And it really is; and we are different in the way we consider riding and motorcycles. A few days later I got into another conversation with a rider at a dealership in Fredericksburg. Homer has been a long-time customer at Morton’s BMW – a fine shop indeed – and has lived in Europe, Asia as well as being a citizen of the Estados Unidos. He, too, brought up the same subject and we discussed how motorcycles, riders, and riding are perceived in different regions and parts of the globe. We both agreed how accepted two-wheels are in some places, and thought of as a bit reckless and rebellious in others, and used as basic transportation in many third world nations. In Europe, for instance, the moto-culture is part of everyday life, and as

nearly everyone has or had a motorcycle or scooter and certainly knows someone who rides. Motorcycles are almost always given a courteous right of way and most times filter to the front at stoplights; as bikes accelerate away quickly when it goes green. In the U.S. this just seems to piss drivers off. In many nations, I have seen entire families on small machines. Dad at the helm, mom behind him, and two other kids squeezed onto the saddle as well. Oh, and the baby upfront on the tank held by mom around the father’s waist. Although riders like to say we are one big two-wheel family, other than the two wheels I have nothing in common here. Most of my non-riding friends and family have no clue to the difference between big touring rigs like the Road King and the young buck on the GSXR. We all look the same to them. But the same diversification exists in the auto world as well. Many of us have multiple motorcycles in the garage. I know many drivers that have a Ford F-150 parked next to their Corvette. Shira has her Suzuki V-Strom 650XT – her warhorse as it were - and her Honda 9191 – her funbike. Parked next to it is her Audi A4 Cabriolet. As most who ride, also have automobiles, we are fairly aware that there is a wide world of four-wheel vehicles on the road and that most drivers do not think of the ride in the same way that we do. And, like the motorcycle world, these drivers have different paradigms about why and how they drive. The Porsche, Corvette, and Mustang drivers probably will have a different thought pattern when it comes to their cars and how they operate them compared to the Ford Fiesta and Toyota Pius drivers. I know many people who do not ever think about their cars in any other way than a conveyance to get from Point A to Point B; although many wish to do so in the most comfortable and trendy way possible. Interstate truckers think of driving in an entirely different light. Continued on page 11


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2021

W H AT C H AT HI NK I N ’ SHIRA KAMIL

FORWARD AND BEHIND Over the past several weeks, perhaps months, I have had some turmoils in my life. I would like to say that they relate to my two-wheeled life, but other antics and hijinks have thrown the trolley off the track. Not to worry, the cart is in the process of being righted so things will work themselves out as we always hope they will. While dealing with these events, I had a good long time to think and reflect on how our daily habits and routines effect our riding and motorcycle lives. We have taken Reg Pridmore’s CLASS for so many years now that I have lost track, and I do make reference often (never too often) to the teachings that go out from that classroom and track. One of the pieces of wisdom that has stuck in my head for the longest time is, ‘What is in your mirrors no longer matters, it is what is in front of you that makes a difference.’ Looking at the goings on in my life now, I see that all the curves, gravel roads and other bumps in the road, while not effecting my path forward, certainly have shaped my outlook and how I do and will handle the curves and bumps ahead. We had a great Summer Squeeze recently at our home away from home, West Dover, VT. Our stay at the Gray Ghost and Kitzhof inns was excellent, as always, with folks heading hither and yon, over gap and trail. Sure, there was moisture, but there were more smiles than puddles and, from what I saw and heard, everyone had a tremendous getaway. Thank you to all the new riders who joined us and we hope that you got a good dose of Backroads Family Hospitality. Brian and I decided, after more than 15 Summer Squeezes under our belts, to just hang. We had thrown out a few routes and Paul Donoghue

Page 5 kindly added to those, so riders were well set to explore on their own. In all our years doing these, we never really just ‘sat.’ So, sit we did – reading our books at the pool, people watching on the front porch, spending some one-on-one time with the others who decided to do the same and playing a bit of the house guitar in the dining room. We took a walk to the deli/grocery up the road a piece and got some of the best sandwiches I have had. Again, all these years and I had never set foot in this well-stocked grocery/deli. I am so glad it was finally discovered. One night we walked to the Dover Bar and Grill. We had had a bad experience many years ago and never returned. Carina, the most wonderful innkeeper at the Gray Ghost, mentioned there were new owners and we should give it another go. Off we went, and we were quite pleased with the whole experience. During our quietness, there was much time to think back on the many gatherings Backroads has held. From the very first gathering in 1998 of a dozen curious folks, wondering what ‘Backroads’ was all about and how we might entertain them on a weekend in the Finger Lakes to our most recent Spring Break ‘Time of Your Life’ Tour which was nothing short of stellar, we have collected people from all walks of life, all corners of, mostly, the east, and riders of all manner of two-wheeled transport (some three and, now, more four coming along). We’ve had glorious sunshine, days of teeming rain and even a snow squall in the middle of May. Our lodgings ranged from the luxuriousness of the Stonewall Jackson Resort to the quirkiness of Tupper Lake. We had a horse race named for us in Charlestown, WV, explored the wilds of Ecuador with Freedom Bike and brought two dozen folks to ride the Alps with Edelweiss. My conclusion from all this reminiscing? It is ALL of you, who continue to trust us when we say, ‘Hey, we’re going to Hole-In-The-Wall, Kalamazoo or wherever’ and follow along. Sure, Brian and I have travelled and will continue to do so, but having all of you come along for the ride has made it all the more fun, adventurous and memorable. The stories that come Continued on Page 11


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O N T H E M AR K MARK BYERS

TIME… A WASTREL’S OBSESSION, AND CONFESSION Charlie Watts died. Of all of the Rolling Stones, he seemed like the least likely to go considering his lifestyle compared to Jagger, Richards, and Wood. Although he fell prey to alcohol and drugs in the 80’s, Charlie never indulged like the other three. Charlie was the rock of the Stones, the man to whom Richards could turn in his most bleary state and pick up the beat if he got lost (or conversely, the man who could adeptly change his time to follow whatever riff Richards was laying down). Charlie was the metronome and he kept the time like the Greenwich Observatory. Music is all about time, actually and metaphorically. Not only is time central to the meter, but it’s a central theme in many lyrics. A quick search reveals more than two dozen songs about time. I would be chastised if I didn’t mention “Does Anybody Really Know What Time It Is” by Chicago. I wonder if Green Day realized that every high school in the world would have to listen to “Time of Your Life” at graduation (although the real title is “Good Riddance” and it is about a girlfriend leaving). I really like that song, however, because it’s played on an acoustic guitar. “Time After Time” by Cyndi Lauper is beautiful and a favorite of mine, along with “Time Is On My Side” by the Stones, “Time Has Come Today” by the Chambers Brothers, and “This is the Time” by Billy Joel. The intros alone to “Time” by Pink Floyd and “Clocks” by Coldplay make me want to hear more. Concern for time is inversely proportional to age: as we realize the muscular metronome in our bodies only has so many ticks left, we begin to fret about how to squeeze in as much activity as we can before the clock spring unwinds completely. This is magnified by people who are

obsessive-compulsive, which includes me (and every engineer). I come by it honestly: one of the best gifts we ever gave my dad was an atomic clock that he could carry around with him to reset the other clocks in the house following a power failure or the twice-yearly time change. My personal OCD is to use the National Institute of Standards & Technology (NIST) app on my phone to set all the watches in my case to the same second as their atomic clock. I guess having a small collection of watches is evidence in itself, but the engineer in me loves the clockwork inside that can be wound or charged by everything from body motion to the sun. One would think that a man so concerned about the accurate display of time would be more concerned about the use thereof, but perversely, I am not. The psychological term for being obsessed with the use of time is called “chronomania” and the fear of running out of time is called “chronophobia.” As I age, I appear to develop more of the latter, but as a procrastinating wastrel, I don’t appear to have the former. I like to be punctual, because that’s so important to other people, but for myself, I am more of an “-ish person” who believes in “four-thirty-ish.” When I ride somewhere, I am loathe to give someone an arrival time because then people worry if you’re late. I used to have my family trained that if they didn’t get a call from the cops, I would eventually turn up. Then, I got married…. I really don’t mean to be contemptuous of other people’s time, but I also don’t want to add making an exact “time on target” to my list of stressors either. I know people who are so used to schedules and regimentation that they bring that crap with them on vacation: “At eight, we’re on the ferry and at nine we tour the mansion, which gives us time to have a coffee before we catch the water taxi to the museum.” My thoughts are that if you bring your regimentation on vacation, it’s not a vacation. Get used to the idea of “-ish.” If it rains, put your feet up at the inn and read a freakin’ book. If you are riding, stop and take a photo, move a turtle, or whatever hurls your kilt skyward: you’ll get there at “-ish.” And if you’re wondering what this screed has to do with motorcycles, I leave you with the following admonition: life is short - buy the motorcycle. ,


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BACKLASH From the Beginning Shira and Brian, The year, 1997. The place, Moroney’s in Newburgh, NY. Ya see I worked for a government agency and during this particular year I transported many ‘clients’ who did wrong things and were sentenced to time in our state penal system. Downstate Correctional was the receiving facility in Fishkill. My partner loved motorcycles and we had to stop at Moroney’s EVERY single time to check out new bikes. I saw your magazine on the table and would peruse it reading different articles. Eventually my mind came around and I took an MSF course at Happy Valley (HVCC or Hudson Valley Community College) in Troy and really enjoyed the thrill of riding so my first learner bike was a Yamaha Virago 750. I rode that bike every evening all over Albany County. Eventually I graduated to larger Yamahas, but my true interest was the Honda Gold Wing. Bought on in ’02, crashed it in ’07 and bought a Honda Trike in ’08. So, you crazy kids of Augusta, you got me interested in riding from the terrific articles in your magazine and I’ve enjoyed you mag for over 20 years. Unfortunately, family obligations as well as some health problems have popped up recently and my riding days have come to an end. I just wanted to say THANKS for working tirelessly putting your magazine out every month for me to enjoy reading it. I’ve saved a few articles thinking to myself that my family will get there someday, but alas on four wheels (Mustang convertible for now). Larry Walley – Albany, NY Paul, Just a thank you for sponsoring the “Welcome to the Jungle“ page. I really enjoy this each month. Regards, Steve

Letters to the Editor Did like Dan Bisbee’s piece on the 1874 Mill River flood in Massachusett’s Hampshire county. My Northampton High School buddies and I would swim in the polluted Mill River in the 1950s. Authorities say the river has been cleaned up now, but none of us seemed to have died of the pollution back then. Great photo of Joe Salluzzo, whom I worked with back in the 1980s in the old Road Rider magazine days. Clem Salvadori, Atascadero CA Hi Shira & Brian, Another fun time at the Gray Ghost! We enjoyed our visit poolside, met some new people, saw some new places and were able to help out a friend in need. Thank you for all that you do. Tom & Kathy

Fueling the Fires Brian, It’s funny, most times I read ‘Free Wheelin’ the same thing you’re talking about, I’m experiencing. So, my 15 year+ VP fuel dealer is not selling fuel anymore and I had to find a new dealer a half hour away just now. I tend to use the VP “Vintage” with and without leaded. That goes in all the vintage bikes. If I go out for a ride and have to stop for pump fuel it gets drained out via my electric pump as soon as I get home and replaced with VP non-ethanol. So last week I was riding my ‘74 Trident to a friend’s house then a bike show. I tried to do it on one tank of fuel not to mix pump fuel; guess what, my reserve petcock on my fine 70s British bike ran 5 miles on reserve before running out of fuel at night on 195. Had to push the bike 5 miles, no one stopped to help. Be careful some other makes of VP fuels “do” have ethanol for their top octane models. Ethanol is a cheap octane booster. VP fuel lasts 5 years in the 5-gallon sealed can, once you pour it in your tank it lasts for 2 years Continued on next page


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because of venting. I add my own stabilizers so it’s good for 3 years. Like a fine wine collector that has to drink the wine before it goes bad ( I have a friend with apps for that), I keep track of the gas low tech. I put tags on the tank “use by” and you would be surprised how fast that goes by. So if you can find a Stuarts Shop convenience store, (did you know on your Garmin if you want to find a WaWa, a Quick Check or a Stuarts Shop you have to search under the “shopping Icon”) mostly in New England and upstate NY, they are all ethanol free, the owner must be a bike and car guy or gal. Harvey

Follow the History Brian, As a fellow history buff, I always enjoy your inclusion of historical and geographic trivia in your articles, as you did with the statue of Henry Clay, the “Great Compromiser” in Pottsville, PA in the September issue. As you noted, he lost 3 presidential elections, but actually he campaigned for president 5 times. The other 2 times, the Whig party, of which he was their leader in Congress, did not give him the party’s nomination for president, opting instead to put forward popular military figures of the day, such as William Henry Harrison and Zachary Taylor, as sure-fire ways to win elections. But, as we know, both of these men died within weeks or months of their inaugurations as president, and thus the Whigs never had a president who served a whole term and got virtually none of

their legislative programs and priorities enacted into law. So when Henry Clay finally retired from Congress and died, so too did the Whig party die. While he never attained the presidency, I’m glad to learn that at least Clay has a giant statue in Pottsville, PA in his memory, as he certainly deserves some recognition for his nearly 4 decades of leadership in the U.S. Congress and in shaping the early history of our country. Dave Owen, Wolfeboro, NH

Talking Bikes Old and New Dear Mr. Good-Looking and Articulate Editor Guy, I just finished the August issue and enjoyed it very much. Thank you for an excellent lunchtime reading break. Shira’s ride sounds nothing less than perfect. I can think of no better way to spend a few days. Good for you both. The shot of Dan and Judy was an extra nice surprise for sure. Did I tell you I bought Dan’s trusty Concours which he rode for 30 years? After he bought it almost-new from a dealership, he discovered (years later) the only previous owner was Chip Doherty, founder of Motophoria. So I think that’s a fairly interesting history for the wineberry beauty in my shed. She needs some work before going on a proper trip but I’ll get to it eventually. And speaking of motorcycles, (like I ever don’t) I am looking at trading the mighty Africa Twin for a Moto Guzzi. I really like the Africa Twin, it’s quite incredible. But I’ve lusted after many a bike from the Moto Guzzi marque for decades. I recently turned 65 and I was thinking, if I don’t buy a bike from Mandello del Lario now, exactly when will I? Maybe I’ll regret trading the AT and maybe I won’t. It’s not the end of the world either way. It’s just an expensive toy. So I think I am going to go for it. See attached. I trust you are both well and happy! Hugs all around. Cheers, Jeff Dear Brian and Shira, Thank you for your continued efforts hosting the annual August Summer Squeeze in West Dover, VT. This year I lost my “Squeeze” virginity, since this was my first time attending, and it was an absolutely glorious 3 days of riding in both NY and VT. I even took a few dirt roads in Vermont (albeit accidentally) on my trusty antique ’96 GPz1100 and it wasn’t bad at all. I also enjoyed meeting many friendly new (to me) folks at the Gray Ghost Monday night dinner and also over at the Kitzof Inn; new folks who I’m sure over time will become old friends as I attend more events in the future. Finally, since we left a day early due to the impending tropical storm, we’re already committed to the 2022 Summer Squeeze, thanks to Simon and Alison’s generosity in offering us a onenight future stay credit for the unused night that we already paid for. They are wonderful folks and run an awesome Inn with great breakfasts. Be well, ride well, and as Shira always says, “Don’t let the fear of what could happen make nothing happen!” William K. Denton


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2021

INDUSTRY INFOBITES OWN A PIECE OF HISTORY AND HELP CURE PEDIATRIC BRAIN CANCER To celebrate its 30th year as presenting sponsor of the Pediatric Brain Tumor Foundation’s Ride for Kids, American Honda is donating three Repsol-edition CBR1000RR sport bikes from its private collection, to be auctioned through Iconic Motorbikes. The auction will run September 3-10, with all proceeds going to the PBTF. The amount raised will be announced during Ride for Kids, which takes place September 12.

In selected model years, American Honda has imported the CBR1000RR in special Repsol graphics as a tribute to the factory Honda MotoGP team, for whom the global multi-energy company has been the title sponsor since 1994. That relationship has produced 15 MotoGP Rider World Championships, via Mick Doohan, Alex Criville, Valentino Rossi, Nicky Hayden, Casey Stoner and Marc Marquez. The CBR1000RR was initially offered in 2004, replacing the CBR954RR, and the inaugural special-edition Repsol version came the following year. The 2007 Repsol Honda CBR1000RR came just after Nicky Hayden’s

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News from the Inside 2006 MotoGP title. The 2009 special edition of the CBR1000RR is the only gen. 2 version, following the model’s 2008 overhaul. All three motorcycles being auctioned have 0 miles, and while the trio would make for an incredible collection, the units will be auctioned individually. Bids may be placed through Iconic Motorbikes: iconicmotorbikeauctions.com “Partnering with the PBTF on Ride for Kids is an honor, and we’re pleased to celebrate the relationship by offering these special-edition Repsol Honda CBR1000RR sport bikes for auction,” said Bill Savino, Senior Manager of Customer Engagement at American Honda. “For the past 30 years, the American motorcycling community has always come through to help PBTF families, and we know we can once again count on riders to bid on these beautiful bikes and participate in a local Ride for Kids.” As the nation’s longest running charitable motorcycle ride, Ride for Kids has raised millions of dollars to support research and family programs for children battling brain tumors. Since 1991, Ride for Kids supporters and Honda have provided a thriving community of support to tens of thousands of kids across the United States and helped the Pediatric Brain Tumor Foundation fund nearly $50 million in research, accelerating the path to a cure. On September 12, riders across the nation will join forces on a single day to support the 28,000 children and teens living in the United States with a brain tumor or central nervous system tumor. Across the country, local ride communities can rally together and fundraise for lifesaving research and family support programs. This year, some rides are in person and some virtual, through a national partnership with the Rever motorcycle app. The event offers special incentives for top fundraisers. For the full list of rides, and to register, visit www.rideforkids.org. Continued on next page


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GET PACKING – EDELWEISS BIKE TRAVEL’S 2022 CATALOGUE IS HERE With a loud thud it falls on your doormat, the brand new and especially thick travel brochure full of motorcycle travel from Edelweiss Bike Travel. With over 40 years of experience in motorcycle travel, Edelweiss knows how to offer you the best routes and destinations. The 198-page brochure gives extensive information about the tours on all continents, details about the level of difficulty, average riding time and average time for sightseeing. In addition to guided tours, they also offer self-guided tours and scooter tours. Do you have tons of time? Then you can join the world tour completely guided, which goes from Munich to Bali, for example. For the off roaders there is also a category with unpaved tours on 3 different continents. And if you book before October 31, 2021, you get a $250 discount on one of the tours from the standard program for 2022. The discount code is EBB2022. If you haven`t ordered one yet, the brochure can be ordered completely free of charge or downloaded on the Edelweiss Bike Travel website. www.edelweissbike.com

MORE COUNTRIES BANNING GAS-POWERED MOTORCYCLES It seems that more and more nations are beginning to adopt a policy of allowing only brand-new electric-powered vehicles to be sold in their jurisdictions in the near future, and now Indonesia, Southeast Asia’s largest motorcycle market with more than 112-million motorcycles on its busy streets, has declared that no more new internal combustion engine (ICE) motorcycles should be sold in the country by 2050.

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2021 Singapore also adopted a similar policy by banning motorcycles they consider “old” from their streets by 2028. India, as well as some European nations, had already enacted similar measures earlier. Now, Canada is the newest country that’s taking on drastic measures to significantly cut greenhouse gas emissions. In a recent announcement from the Canadian government agency, Transport Canada (TC), they are accelerating the complete eradication of ICE-powered vehicles by outlawing them by 2035 -- which is 5-years earlier than the original 2040 plan. Like other countries initiating combustion vehicle sales bans, the plan is to end new vehicle sales, and does not mention plans for older vehicles. Most such plans rely on older vehicles eventually phasing themselves out as they become impractical to repair and own over time.

TIME TO SPEAK OUT ON CONGESTION PRICING IN NEW YORK Cheryl Stewart, advocate with Riders Against Congestion, has provided us with the following information: The MTA has moved on Congestion Pricing, a/k/a the Central Business District Tolling Program, and it’s finally time for us to act. There will be a series of 10 regional public hearings and the MTA must hear from us! The Traffic Mobility Review Board, controlled by the MTA, will soon set toll rates and decide who, if any, will be exempt from congestion-based tolling. This is a crucial moment for us to advocate for a 100% exemption from congestion pricing for our fuel-efficient, congestion-reducing vehicles. Our goal will be to have as many motorcyclists as we can muster speaking at every single hearing. Now is the moment to act. Sign up to participate in public meetings here: new.mta.info/project/CBDTP/upcoming-meetings These hearings will be virtual, via Zoom, which will mean easy access for all. If you’re unable to speak at a hearing you can submit written comments on the MTA website: mta-nyc.custhelp.com/app/cbd_tolling You’ll receive a confirmation via email once you register to speak at a hearing. The hearings are each geared towards individual affected regions, but anyone can participate in any hearing that fits your schedule. I ask that you PLEASE let me know if you’ve signed up to speak. Speak from your heart and your personal experiences, but please be


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2021 polite and respectful above all. Here’s a brief synopsis of some of our talking points: Our vehicles demonstrably reduce traffic congestion, motorcycles are impressively fuel efficient, our vehicles are lightweight, which reduces wear on roads and infrastructure, two-wheeled vehicles take up a small fraction of the space of an auto when parked, and virtually every municipality around the world where Congestion Pricing has been imposed has exempted motorbikes from congestion pricing charges.

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The high-end sports car driver is probably more in line with their thinking as the high-end sports bike rider. Perhaps the touring rider has a touch in common with the RV driver. But, you do not see Gold Wingers waving to the RV driver as they pass. When you consider how many types of machines are on the road and how differently many of these riding generally think, ride and act, although we might all be riders we are not from the same family. I am not here to sow seeds of discord, rather simply point out just how big and diverse our world of riding is and that although we all ride two wheels the Jones family is far different than the Smith family. , WHATCHATHINKIN’

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from these outings, the places found and pictures capturing the happiness are irreplaceable. You are the family who we choose to spend time with rather than ‘have’ to. Wherever things go in the future, the times that are in our mirrors do matter and have shaped our memories and experiences and will propel us forward to more great times in front of us. That nasty curve that may have thrown me off track will only strengthen my sight and help me take a better line for the next one. Thank you all and I look forward to spending many more miles and smiles with you all. , No one else can do this for us. At this moment we must act for ourselves, and for motorcyclists everywhere. NYC will be the first in the US to implement Congestion Pricing. City planners around the country are watching us closely as they prepare their own congestion mitigation strategies. Let’s make sure we get this right. Feel free to contact me via text, phone or email. I’ll be happy to provide more detailed information, links to supportive studies and any other supporting information to help you make your point. And please remember to let me know if you’ve signed up to speak at a hearing. Cheryl Stewart • Riders Against Congestion (917) 796-9392 • cstewart@byway.net ,


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Morton’s BMW Motorcycles presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s

MYSTERIOUS AMERICA

UNCLAIMED BAGGAGE CENTER

509 W WILLOW STREET, SCOTTSBORO, AL 35768 256-259-1525 • WWW.UNCLAIMEDBAGGAGE.COM If you have traveled by air there is always that slight bit of tension when you get to the baggage carousel. In all the years I have been traveling by jet aircraft we have only had a few issues and one or two wins. A win for me is when my Ogio bag, carrying all of my gear, comes out of the chute in the first round of luggage. Once it was the first bag out. Yes! But, on occasion, the Ogio bag has not rolled up, out, and onto the carousel. When that happens, you have that sinking feeling in your gut when you look around and realize you are the only passenger from your flight still standing at the carousel. Head hung low you go through the Lost Luggage Stages of Grief - shock and denial, depression, and then you begin working through it; which involves finding the Lost Luggage counter and begin the paperwork. You wonder where your luggage really is? Perhaps it has gone to the Lost Sock Dimension? I have had luggage lost a few times and each time the luggage was hand-delivered to our doorstep the next day and once a few days later.

I have only had one bag simply disappear – luckily it was an empty bag that I had picked up at a Yamaha intro and United eventually paid me for the loss. In truth airline passengers waiting for their bags upon arrival are almost certain to see them riding atop the bag carousel. That’s because airlines use sophisticated tracking technology to reunite over 99.5% of bags with their owners right away. If a bag is truly lost, airlines pay out a claim to the passenger. It’s only after an extensive three-month search that an unclaimed bag is deemed truly orphaned, a fate realized by less than 0.03% of all checked luggage! That’s where this month’s Mysterious America comes in… The Unclaimed Baggage Center in Scottsboro, Alabama. Yes, there is such a place.

I visited there a few months back, as we had to see it for ourselves. Indeed, there it was. A mammoth building, plus another, and walking in it was just a tad on the odd, quirky, and unusual side of life. Think of it as the largest Good Will, second-hand thrift shop you will ever see. You might wonder how all this happens and how everything eventually winds up in a small town in Alabama. Back in 1970 entrepreneur, Doyle Owens was struck with an idea. Using a borrowed pickup truck and a $300 loan, he headed up to Washington D.C. and bought his first load of unclaimed baggage from Trailways Bus Line. He then sold the contents on card tables in an old rented house - the venture was an instant success! With his family’s blessing, he left his full-time insurance job, and Unclaimed Baggage Center was born. Today Unclaimed Baggage has purchasing agreements for unclaimed items with all domestic airlines and other travel and transportation companies. With five decades of experience processing large volumes of one-of-a-kind items, they maximize each item’s potential for a second life.


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Only about one third of all unclaimed items they receive can be sold. After these items go through the rigorous readiness process, they determine selling prices based on estimated retail values and conditions. They process approximately 7,000 unique, heavily discounted items each day for their sales floor, where they are discovered and “reclaimed” by new owners. Walking inside we saw several huge rooms with everything you can imagine. But, I’ll get right back to all that. What was really fun was to see some of the quirky and more peculiar luggage and items that have passed through the doors, as along the walls they have many of the really strange items on display. Great old bicycles, Sam the Unclaimed baggage Ram, Great Highland Bagpipes from Scotland (how do you lose your pipes, Laddie?) and even Donny & Marie Osmond’s costumes from a long-ago tour. Other great finds include an aluminized fire suit, a camera from the Space Shuttle, an Egyptian burial mask, a live rattlesnake, a shrunken head, a xylophone from a Neil Diamond tour, and even Hoggle from the movie Labyrinth that

starred David Bowie (he was awesome in this!). We spent a good hour in there walking the many aisles full of electronics, lots of books and rack and racks of perfectly good clothes. In truth, if you come to the Unclaimed Baggage Center with the idea to find and buy you, most likely, will not be disappointed. Even if you don’t buy anything the place is truly fascinating and certainly part of this Mysterious America. O’Life Out! ,


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Thisilldous Eatery presents

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN

404 MAIN ST, ROSENDALE, NY 12472 845-658-7175 • THEBIGCHEESEROSENDALE.COM They have a saying at this month’s Great All American Diner Run: Explore the Divinity of Cheese and Nourishing Mediterranean Food. Divinity? Nice. The Big Cheese was a serendipitous find while on a 300-mile day trip that we stole in late July. With a very spring-like day, temps in the low 70’s and not much in the way of humidity, we went searching for people, places or things to fill the pages you are now reading. What, you think Backroads creates itself ? Cruising into the town of Rosendale, once the concrete capital of the world, we were both heading towards the bad side of hangry. The town has several restaurants, but it was The Big Cheese that grabbed both our attention and, with a spot right across the street, we parked and sauntered inside. As we got close I read the sign: Café’, Market, Mediterranean…and Canal Town Thriftique. Thriftique? They also claimed to serve Darn Good Coffee. Indeed, they did. The Big Cheese is more than just a place to get a bite. Doing a bit of research back at home I learned more about this unique town and local-conscious shop. ‘The best little venue to explore the divinity of cheese, Mediterranean foods, fresh salads, deli, groceries, Kombuchas, eat-in, take-out, breakfast, lunch, dinner, movie snacks, chocolates, coffee, WiFi & vintage selections!’ Phew, that a lot of goodness in one place; lucky us. Yuval & Lisa Sterer run a wonderful little restaurant that boasts good, healthy, nutritive food, local farm-fresh goods, juices, cheese from

tasty places to take your bike

around the world along with a delicious menu of fresh salads, deli foods to gourmet goodies, freshly made Middle Eastern fare, and some of the most inventive and scrumptious sandwiches this side of the Hudson. The a.tmosphere is unique, warm inviting, and friendly. They also run an eclectic second-hand store within the restaurant. You can get a superb lunch and then do a little bit of shopping You will find books, kitchenware, and unique clothing. Really nice clothing by the way! From the moment we stepped through the threshold we were encircled with the most wonderful aromas. Think the best deli, cheese shop, and market all mixed together with a strong dash of The Med. The women that were behind the counter were very friendly and were very patient as we took a long time to finally decide on what we wanted from their strong and inviting menu. Their cases are filled with inviting Mediterranean dishes such as stuffed grape leaves, spanikopita and labaneh along with more hot and cold appys and entrees. The cold cases house the amazing assortment of cheeses, along with other dairy products. If you are a breakfast anytime person, they can do that for you, with such dishes as the Israeli: scrambled eggs with fresh greens, tomato and olives


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2021 with raw tahini drizzle and a za’atar sprinkle or perhaps the New Yorka: two scrambled eggs with NY State smoked lox and onions and a side of horseradish labne. They have a very delicious pizza made with either Turkish pide bread or gluten-free cauliflower mozzarella crust with a blend of olive oil, ajvar, fresh wilted greens, sliced black olives and a choice of mozzarella or feta cheese – holy cow! Being such a diverse and all-inclusive operation, they offer a good selection of salads and vegan and gluten free dishes. The sandwiches are of decent size and are very eclectic such as the Big Cheese Favorite Falafel Wrap – with hummus, baba ghanoush, pickled red cabbage, fresh greens, tomatoes, pickles, and tahini. The Salmon Wrap will bring you baked Atlantic salmon with wasabi mayo, sliced onions, fresh greens, and tomato. Or maybe the Korean burger – a shiitake mushroom, mung bean and napa cabbage burger on toast with greens and a kimchi mayo spread will hit the spot for you. I was studying the Paninis and although the Cheese Lovers – their own melted Swiss, mozzarella, and cheddar blend - grabbed my eye first, I then jumped to the Rueben with Applegate roast beef, turkey, prosciutto or Hudson Valley tempeh with sauerkraut, homemade Russian dressing, and a blend of melted cheeses.

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But eventually, I settled on the New Englander Sweet. I had mine with roasted turkey, fresh apple slices, and sharp cheddar cheese. It was awesome. I added a few stuffed grape leaves as I was both hungry and a glutton. Shira created her own plate from their baked eggplant parmigiana that came with a great balsamic dressing and salad. Following my lead, with her eyes far bigger than her stomach, she added baked mac & cheese along with the rest. Honestly, … good luck choosing when at The Big Cheese. It is a culinary delight along the Main Street of the once Capital of the Cement World. When done and really quite full, we looked through the second-hand clothing and items. They have some very high-quality clothing and other items – all chosen to be sold here. There was nothing bad to see, only good – one book jumped out at me. Clapton’s autobiography. Four dollars and it rode home in my tank bag. We think The Big Cheese is just that. The Big Cheese! Here’s a nice 80mile jaunt from Jumboland on Route 206 in Branchville, NJ to start your day. Enjoy! , Download .gpx file here: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/vh8uwi


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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2021

Frontline Eurosports presents

BIG CITY GETAWAY MAINE MINERAL & GEM MUSEUM

99 MAIN STREET, BETHEL, MAINE 04217 207-824-3036 • MAINEMINERALMUSEUM.ORG Over the years we have learned that you can and will find the most amazing, interesting, and sometimes mysterious people, places, and things when you least expect it and in the most unusual of places. This day, while enjoying a few days romp in New Hampshire, we made a little side trip just over the border into Maine and the tiny hamlet of Bethel. Situated in the fertile Androscoggin River valley surrounded by some of the highest mountains in Maine, the town of Bethel traces its origins

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind to a 1768 grant made by the Commonwealth of Massachusetts to men whose ancestors had fought in a campaign to conquer Canada in 1690. Originally named “Sudbury Canada,” in honor of these early grantees from the town of Sudbury, Massachusetts, and their campaign against Canada, Bethel was first settled by people of European descent in 1774. With the arrival of the Atlantic & St. Lawrence Railroad in 1851, connecting Bethel to Portland and, later, Montreal, manufacturing and tourism became major factors in the economy. Large summer hotels were constructed at Bethel Hill, and the town rapidly became a significant way-station for the growing White Mountain and Rangeley Lakes tourist trade.


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2021 Once called “The Athens of Oxford County,” Bethel has long been a significant educational center for the region. Founded in 1836, Gould Academy continues to function as one of the Northeast’s premier collegepreparatory schools. In the late nineteenth century, Bethel became the site of Dr. John George Gehring’s pioneering clinic for the treatment of persons with nervous disorders. (William Bingham 2nd, Bethel’s great philanthropist, first came here in 1911 as a patient.) Until recently, Dr. Gehring’s elegant Broad Street home was occupied by the internationally known NTL Institute, which was founded at Bethel in 1947 and continues to specialize in the study of human dynamics. Today, during the winter, it is a great basecamp for skiing and, during the summer, motorcycle riding.

Page 17 It is a very down to Earth sort of place. But what we came for was not of this world. But first a little history. Many do not know that this part of New England is recognized worldwide as one of the greatest resources for precious stones. Recently the Maine Mineral & Gem Museum reopened its doors and inside you will find the most wondrous of gems and minerals from this part of the nation and far beyond. The first commercial gemstone mine in the United States was discovered by accident near the town of Paris, Maine, on a late autumn day in October of 1821. In October of 1972, one of the largest and most significant gem Tourmaline finds in North American history occurred in the mountains of western Maine. Named the Dunton Mine, this discovery created – and still creates – ripples in the American gemstone industry. It was called: “The Big Find.” Today the MMGM houses the finest collection of Maine minerals and gems. It includes the famous Perham Collection, viewed by generations in a local mineral store that operated for ninety years. Comprising a 15,000 square foot space on three floors, the MMGM was designed by the Paulus Design Group, which counts The Smithsonian among its clients. It is one of the most enjoyable museums we have visited and they do a superb job of keeping your attention and educating you. As you roll up you will be greeted by their outdoor Rock Garden made up of some very stunning rocks indeed. Gneiss, Granite with a basalt


Page 18 dike running through it, Folded Marble, Jasper, and even a large Meteorite from the Seymchan River in Northern Siberia can be seen outside. But when you walk in is when the real show begins. We were fortunate to be waiting for the museum to open with a fellow and his wife. Mark is a gem guru and his comments and explanation made a normal visit to a museum far more unique and interesting. Thank you, Mark! Inside we found fine examples of Tourmaline and Pegmatite, Opals, Rubies, and an impressive collection of jewelry as well. The museum houses hundreds of precious stones, gems, and minerals from the local region. And, the hits kept on coming! One of the world’s greatest meteorite collections is at the Maine Mineral & Gem Museum, and has the world’s foremost collections of extraterrestrial rocks—meteorites from Mars, the Moon, and the Asteroid Belt that

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teach us about the origins of our Solar System, including the five largest pieces of the Moon on Earth! They have more extraterrestrial stones, rocks, and minerals than NASA does. This is why we came. But, how did they get pieces of the Moon and Mars? Seriously? Yes, Mars indeed. Collisions on the Red Planet knock debris so high up they leave Mars’ lighter gravitational pull and these pieces of Martian rocks sometimes get caught in the gravity of our own planet and plummet to Earth as meteorites, like their Lunar samples.

We spent a good deal of time studying these guests to our planet and then got a real shock. One of the docents asked if we would like to hold a piece of the Moon and of Mars! Would we? Yes, Ma’am!

Amazingly she handed us two large stones that began their journey here thousands of years ago. It was unexpected and truly amazing. In fact, the entire Maine Mineral & Gem Museum is amazing and well worth seeking out while riding in and around the White Mountains of Maine and New Hampshire. You can find a route up to New Hampshire in this month’s ‘We’re Outta Here!’. Just head east from Town & Country Inn towards Bethel, ME and the MMGM. ,


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WE’RE OUTTA HERE TOWN & COUNTRY INN AND RESORT

20 US-2 SHELBURNE, NH 03581 603-466-3315 • WWW.TOWNANDCOUNTRYINNANDRESORT.COM Up near the top of the Granite State of New Hampshire, you will find a comfortable road designated Route 2 that meanders across the top of the state. On this road, just a few miles east of the town of Gorham, you will find a remarkable Inn, with a great and deep history. Welcome to Town & Country.

When we strolled in, the first thing that we noticed was the American Flags folded and displayed with military honor. It was then we began to learn about the history of the Inn. In 1956, Ralph “Navy” Labnon purchased the Androscoggin Valley Country Club House from the Brown Company. This property had

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a weekend destinationkeeping you on the backroads formerly been known as the Hitchcock Farm. In the ‘50s the clubhouse for the golf course, at that time, consisted of seven rooms, three baths, and six dining tables. In December of 1956, the small facility would begin operations under the name of the Country Club Inn with 11 hotel rooms, only one of which had a private bath, and an expanded dining room as well as a minuscule lounge. But Labnon had bigger plans for the Inn. As the law at that time stated a hotel needed 12 rooms in order to be granted a liquor license, one room was added to meet the state requirements. Several years later, the name was changed to the Country Inn, and then it finally became incorporated as the Town & Country Inn and Resort. A major event in the history of the business was the devastating fire that occurred on December 30, 1973. The main building, housing the kitchen, dining room, banquet rooms, lounge, and twelve motel units were totally destroyed. The family faced the New Year with a tremendous loss, but with firm determination to rebuild the Inn. Within thirty days, all the debris had been removed and construction of the new building was underway. Late in June, the major rebuilding project was complete and the Town and Country reopened. That was then….


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Today, the Inn boasts 160 rooms, a dining room seating 180 guests, four banquet rooms that can accommodate over 500 people, a lounge featuring live entertainment on weekends, an indoor heated pool, sauna, steam room, Jacuzzi, and a full health club facility. We have all heard the phrase location, location, location. This truly applies here at Town & Country. The hotel has had many famous guests who have all enjoyed the hospitality know as “TLC”, Tender Labnon Care. Political guests have included President & Mrs. Ronald Reagan, President & Mrs. Richard Nixon, Senator Robert Dole, Mrs. Elizabeth Dole, Franklin D. Roosevelt Jr., Pierre Salinger, and Senator Ted Kennedy, to name a few. Among the many other celebrities who have enjoyed the fine amenities offered at the Town & Country, are Kurt Russell, Derek Sanderson, Bobby Orr, Melvin Belli, Julia Child, and Leonard Nimoy. Spock and Dutch the Gipper?! The T & C just raised their own bar.

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The place has had an odd dichotomy of guests – many nights will find the Side X Side and offroad crowd rubbing elbows with the Caddyshack crowd of high-end golfers. That was the case the evening we were there. After we landed, we spent a bit of time in the oh-so-refreshing pool and kept seeing more and more off-road vehicles rolling in. Although many were your standard Off-Road machines, some were truly outstanding, well designed and built rides. Back to the comfortable room, with bikes parked right outside the window, we showered, put on some civvies, and went to explore more of Town & Country. We had heard that the food here was ‘off the charts wonderful. But first, we made a stop at the Inn’s large bar. This is where the odd mix of patrons came into the play. Inside were dozens of golfers, many well into the 19th hole after a long day on the green. The riders and the putters all got along swimmingly and it was interesting to listen to the conversations.


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We spoke with the owner Scott Labnon, a cheerful and attentive host for sure. He gave us a bit of the history – much of which you have just read - and it was obvious that he, his family, and all the staff take great pride in Town & Country. Dinner was everything that we were led to believe. The stuffed mushroom caps and Caesar were great starters. I went for the baked shrimp but Shira, a huge carnivore, took on T & C’s roast prime rib – the house specialty since 1956. Even the Queen cut was enormous, as were all the portions of their very healthy dinner menu. What a great night.

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But we talked location, location, location a bit back. There are some of the finest roads, incredible sights, and just beautiful things to seek out and explore while riding in this part of New England. That is one of the reasons we loved the Town & Country and it easily made this month’s We’re Outta Here and we’ll certainly be returning to Gorham soon. We’ll get you to the Town and Country Inn, but you may want to make it a two-day ride as it is almost 425 miles. We put a stopover point in West Dover, VT, where you can stay at the Kitzhof or Gray Ghost Inns, our homes away from home. Once you settle at the Town and Country, just point your motorcycle east on 2 towards Bethel, ME and you’ll find this month’s Big City Getaway – the Maine Mineral and Gem Museum. , Download .gpx Route: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/4fttam


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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2021

LAPP VALLEY FARM DAIRY AND ICE CREAM

244 MENTZER RD, NEW HOLLAND PA 17557 • 717-354-7988 • CHECK FOR HOURS, MAY BE SEASONAL We were on an overnight outing to Lancaster PA for a viewing of a friend’s documentary on whisky – which you read all about in the September issue. The film was wonderful, the company and whisky superb, all made better by having ridden our bikes to our destination. You may say, ‘If you were going for a whisky film, which involved after-film whisky tastings, why would you ride?’ I say, ‘Moderation is key, and knowing there will be a great ride the next day makes for resistance. Plus - Uber.’ Knowing where we would be, I pulled out my voluminous folder of ice cream stops by state and zeroed in on the Amish portion of Pennsylvania. As we had a ‘sort of, kinda’ route coming home, I just selected my top choice for the area and hoped that we’d be close enough to hit the mark. After a marvelous breakfast send off with our old friend Joe Salluzzo, we began our leisurely ride east. Taking a look at the GPS, I saw that we, indeed, would be riding right past my selection and I told Brian we’d be making a little detour along the way. He was happy to oblige, as I am always willing to indulge his off-beat stops to appease our esteemed Dr. O’Life. The Lapp Valley Farm Dairy and Ice Cream Shop have been serving the community and those who travel for their fresh and delicious dairy products since 1975. David, fourth generation Lapp, is at the helm of 70-80 Jersey cows which produce, what many say, is the finest milk to be found in Lancaster County. Jersey cows, originally from the Isle of Jersey in England, produce milk with more butterfat, solids and high proteins – thus the excellent taste. These cows can produce milk for a good 8 years, and have about 60 calves a year. Why so many calves, you ask? What do you think the cows need to do to produce that delicious milk? Of the close to 500 gallons of milk daily, all but what is used to produce the ice cream is sold at the farm, either in their clean, bright shop or through their convenient drive-thru window that accommodates cars, motorcycles, bicycles and push scooters as well as Amish and Mennonite buggies.


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2021 Such a unique queue, to be sure. The Lapps are of Amish heritage and David’s great grandfather bought this farm during the early 20th century, actually the 1930s depression, which started as a diversified farm and grew into one of the premier midsize dairy farms in the area. David Lapp and a few experienced young women make their 16 flavors of ice cream in very small batches – five gallons – three or four times a week during the high season. It’s quality over quantity, for sure. They also hand-roll waffle cones which can account for up to half of the over 1000 single and double scoop cones sold on a busy day in tourist season. Lapp Valley Farm is not just a simple ice cream or dairy shop. It is

Page 23 a destination, as you can wander the meticulously manicured grounds and visit with their friendly peacocks, bull dogs and cats. You can watch the Jersey cows being milked and visit with the calves that are bottlefed. There is ample seating on the large porch outside the shop, as well as grassy spots to enjoy your dairy deliciousness along with a beautiful sunny day. When you enter the shop, you will be overwhelmed by the sumptuous smell of the homemade waffle cones. You’ll be greeted warmly by the young Amish women ready to happily scoop out your favorite flavor. I did mention that there are 16 flavors, as David feels ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.’ The offerings include the basic chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry. From there it goes to butter pecan, peanut butter swirl, raspberry, butter brickle, black cherry, cookies n’ cream, coffee, coconut, maple walnut and several iterations of chocolate with mix-ins. My go to flavor has always been coffee and I will jump at anything that has maple, so that’s where I went. Brian had to sample their homemade waffle cone filled with cookies n’ cream and coconut. I certainly can say that everything was super, but the coconut was off the charts great. Pricing is certainly reasonable considering the high-quality product you receive: 2 scoops in a waffle cone is only $3.65. And with that you get the pretty surrounds in which to enjoy. We sat a spell, enjoying the day, then spent a little time visiting the bovines and other farm animals before saddling up for the ride home. You can enjoy Lapp Valley Farms Monday-Saturday from 8am-6pm. Please don’t take a ride out on a Sunday, as like many local businesses in this area, they are closed to honor the Lord. You can also get this wonderful ice cream at the Green Dragon Market (955 North State Street, Ephrata, PA) every Friday from 8-8 and at Kitchen Kettle Village – 3529 Old Philadelphia Pike, Intercourse, PA year-round, every day except Sunday (check for hours). For your enjoyment, we’ll give you a nice Autumn ride starting from Delaware Water Gap, PA. Enjoy the ride and the farm and we’ll see you next time at the Inside Scoop. Download .gpx here: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/gaucds


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Going where the orange sun has never died And your swirling marble eyes shine Laughing Burning blue the light Bittersweet the drops of life Memories only fading Fancy Colours – Chicago

Introduction:

Each year, when the Earth spins around to the autumnal season, we look to piece together a number of routes that will highlight some yearly blazes of reds, yellows and orange that swing us towards the dreaded winter. This year we try to follow a somewhat odd theme. So, follow along and we hope we… make you smile!

West Virginia Fantasies

We will start and finish this Mountain State loop in the small city of Buckhannon and it is our hope it is a great ballad of superb roads and bright and vibrant colors. From, more or less, where Route 20 meets Route 119 we’ll be heading south on Route 20. In a state full of outstanding roads, Route 20, running north and south, is its longest at nearly 260 miles. Densely forested in most places, it runs through many little towns. We will be riding along just 50 miles, but a great 50 miles to be sure. Along the way we’ll be passing Holly River State Park. With 8,101 acres of dense forest, Holly River is West Virginia’s second largest state park. Located in a narrow valley in the Mountain Lakes region, the park is surrounded by heavily forested mountains, some reaching more than 2,800 feet in height. The dense forests of Holly River provide riders with a natural setting where they can find peaceful solitude…. before getting back to throwing gears in a vibrant manner. Down the road make a left onto Route 15 in the town of Addison, which the locals call Webster Springs. I am not sure if it is named after the character in Moonlighting or Emmanuel Lewis?

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Truth is, the town was famous in the late 19th and early 20th centuries for its numerous salt sulfur water wells. People believed that the water from the wells had medicinal qualities. Many still do. Banking onto Route 15 in an easterly vector, we will ride the entire 65 miles of this West Virginia nirvana. At the Tygart Valley River which, if you seek it out, actually could be called part of the Mississippi River. Go figure. Banging right on Route 219 we’ll be heading south, but then tilting left onto Route 66 through Pocahontas County – one of the nicest regions in West “By God” Virginia. Ahh, Route 66 I know it well. I rode it four times in one hour in May. I suggest to gas up at this turn off and, if you have time, take the railroad at Cass. It is phenomenal. The ride to Bald Knob will give you a completely different view than the road. The Cass Scenic Railroad is the same line built in 1901 to haul lumber to the mill in Cass. The locomotives are the same Shay locomotives used in Cass during that time, and in the rainforests of British Columbia for more than a half-century. Many of the passenger cars are old logging cars that have been refurbished.


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When we took it the noise, coal dust and power were more than impressive. Cass is the home to the world’s largest fleet of geared Shay locomotives. Five Shays, one Heisler, and one Climax reside here. The legendary turnof-the-century class C-80 Shay, #5 has been toiling up Cheat Mountain for 115 years, making it one of the oldest engines in continuous service on its original line, and the oldest operable Shay in existence! It is well worth the time. Ahh, but now it is time for the more cerebral stuff. SETI. The Search for Extraterrestrial Intelligence. God, we’re looking for terrestrial intelligence at this point. The Green Bank Radio Observatory. With over fifty years of experience in radio astronomy and uniquely located within the National and West Virginia Radio Quiet Zones, the Green Bank Observatory is home to seven large radio telescopes ranging in size from 14m – 100m in diameter. The site also has significant infrastructure which allows for the installation of any instrument which may

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benefit from the radio quiet location of the site (do not try your cell), as well as an excellent test range for receivers and other hardware and a large anechoic chamber outfitted for testing antenna beam patterns and radio emissions from all types of equipment. The primary function of the GBO is for scientific research of all types. We like the ET thing. This is the most fascinating place and take a walk along their scale Solar System – you will be stunned at how big our little part of the galaxy truly is. Moving on we will be taking a left onto Route 250 – one of our favorite West Virginian byways. Well, at least in this state, as 250 runs from Richmond, Virginia to Sandusky, Ohio on Lake Erie. But we can get to Cedar Point and the Valravn roller coaster some other time. (Side note: we are actively looking for large bald men to play the part of me on this ride) But right now, the Monongahela National Forest, with its deep and old Ents, should be our focus.


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Heading north on Route 219 will keep us along the Monongahela until we head west on Route 33 back towards Buckhannon and the end of this nearly 190-mile loop. Oh my God, we had to have this… But West Virginia Fantasies has always led into Colour My World. We really don’t have a route called this – but it is your world to colour. This is your Autumn to colour – so find your own roads, but share them in words and pictures and all our fellow readers will appreciate it. Download .gpx here: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/av9lme

Does Anybody Really Know What Time It is? Don’t know where to go Don’t know where I am Can’t see past the next step Don’t have time to think past the last mile Have no time to look around Just run around, run around and think why? Chicago Transit Authority Why? We just want to ride! In Columbia, PA, not far from the Susquehanna River and the city of Lancaster you will find an outstanding museum. You do not know about it? Well, it’s about time. Welcome to the Watch & Clock Museum. Operated by the National Association of Watch & Clock Collectors, the Museum features the largest collection of timepieces in North America – more than 13,000 from around the world, in-

cluding a German table clock from about 1570. When we visited, we realized the NAWCC Museum is the closest you can come to time travel. From prehistory to the space age, the items on display delight visitors of all ages. At the museum one can enjoy the sights and sounds of watches and clocks from around the world, be inspired by the artistry and science of timepieces, and marvel at the inner workings of timekeepers of all shapes and sizes. Spanning centuries, you will see so much. The 18th-Century Gallery features tall, or grandfather, clocks from the United States and Europe. Although the mechanical technology is similar in both types, European clocks far surpassed American clocks during this period in artistry, dial design, and cabinetry; adults try to decipher how to tell time on the Franklin Clock, an unusual timepiece invented by Benjamin Franklin in the 1700s. The only thing that will be almost as much fun as this museum is the ride there from one of our favorite eateries - Thisilldous. Enjoy… but take your time. Simply download the GPX route and Bob’s your uncle! Download .gpx here: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/prt687


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Beginnings…. When I’m with you, It doesn’t matter where we are or what we’re doing, I’m with you, that’s all that matters. Time passes much too quickly when we’re together laughing. I wish I could sing it to you, oh no. I wish I could sing it to you. We wish we could all sing it to you…. In 1997 Backroads held it first rally, up along the Finger Lakes, starting from Watkins Glen. Back then we had just a dozen riders attend – but like most beginnings, it sticks with us more than two decades later. The Chateau Leon at Hector Falls, the first for our friends…. While this little slice of heaven, at least for the vegans in our group, is no longer around, there are plenty of great places to lay your head while exploring the Finger Lakes during the autumnal changing of the colours and the beginning of the best riding of the year. The town of Watkins Glen offers a gem of a place – the Seneca Lodge

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2021 – which houses one of our all-time favorite bars next to our own Monkey with a Gun. Mr. Donald Brubaker, back in 1944, moved his family to this spot from Altoona, PA. He built and grew what is now Seneca Lodge, bringing both the National Field Archery Assoc. and Formula One racing to Watkins Glen. In 1951, the first NFAA Tournament was held in Watkins Glen and Mr. B. invited the winners to shoot an arrow in the lodge wall, beginning a tradition which still continues. We loved it so much we have one of their arrows in the wall of MWAG. We have held a few Backroads’ Rallies at Seneca Lodge, and we highly recommend it as a base camp for your explorations. Because it is as close as we can come to our Beginnings, we’ll originate this ride from the Lodge and hope that your ride will be tinged with the beauty this area has to offer. Sample some of the farm fresh foods and stop at the award-winning wineries to enjoy when the bike is parked back at the lodge. So, ride with us as we loop The Finger Lakes. We’ll start you with a stop at the Glenn Curtiss Museum in Hammondsport. Take your time to immerse yourself in all the amazing things this man brought to the world of motors. Then it’s on to the Bully Hill Winery, one of the more whimsical vineyards on the Lakes. You’ll loop up Keuka Lake before cutting over to Seneca Lake, the largest of the Finger Lakes. Pass through the town of


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Page 29 Geneva and head south for a bit, enjoying the colors of the season. Vector to the east to hook up with Cayuga Lake heading north where you will find the peacefulness of Montezuma National Wildlife Refuge. Stop at the visitors center before making the loop, seeing what birds and other wildlife you may encounter. The road is gravel but very well maintained and meant to

be ridden at slow speeds so as not to disturb the residents. You’ll then ride the length of Cayuga, the longest of the Lakes, and your reward will be a stop at Purity Ice Cream Co. Known as ‘The Ice Cream of the Finger Lakes,’ Purity has been delighting patrons since 1936. We’ll then send you back towards the beginning at Seneca Lodge, but not before passing the sight of the first Backroads’ Rally at Hector Falls. Back at the Lodge, park the bike, pop a cork if you will, and drink in the splendor of this idyllic spot before joining the folks at the bar and savoring the splendid food served in the dining room. , Download .gpx here: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/a8kiaa


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Call Me a Fan

Nate Kern’s BMW Double R Fest at VIR Mark Byers It wasn’t just hot, it was humid and the sweat wouldn’t evaporate. Riding wasn’t bad, because the airflow did some cooling, but sitting under the canopy between sessions was like basking on a kettle. My first track session on a new-to-me 2012 BMW S1000RR I’d ridden less than 4 total hours was not stellar: between the heat, the riding position, and the challenge of Virginia International Raceway’s 1.65-mile, twisty South Course, I began to question my sanity. My wife and I have a rule, however, that if someone offers us the chance to do something neat, we have to take it; consequently, when Jeff Massey of Morton’s BMW offered me the chance to take my S1000RR to the track that weekend, the only word I could say was “Yes!” Never mind I’d have to leave in two days and I had no place to stay - just details. A quick call to VIR miraculously netted me a room and suddenly I was a kid at Christmas!

I’ve known of Nate Kern for a while: I interviewed him at Morton’s shortly into his career riding R1100S’s and I watched him go from fledgling racer to BMW Brand Ambassador and factory test rider. He’s got a wicked sense of humor to go with his sharp skills on the track and he mixes solid riding advice with his own brand of snarky standup. I was very much looking forward to an event by/with him. Apparently I wasn’t

alone, because as I was setting up in the South Paddock, vehicles came rolling in from as far away as Indiana, Florida, and Texas. While Double-R Fest is a track day, not a school, it is divided into three groups and the first two, beginner and intermediate, are “instructor-led,” meaning Nate and plenty of his trusted agents are out there to either lead or follow riders. The rules are strictly enforced and in two days of riding, there was not a single stoppage for someone crashing, even with the groups hitting 150 or more at the end of the straight. A couple people did take short excursions into the “lawn” but the ample runoff at VIR allowed them to get right back in the fray. I was in the beginner group because I was on new bike(s) and this was definitely a sportbike-centric event. That shouldn’t worry anyone, however, because we had a lady in our group who was “just barely post-MSF-course” and we handled her presence without any trouble. Nate’s instructors kept the flow going admirably while she learned and no one felt “held up.” Nate limits groups to 20 riders each, so it spreads people out nicely. When you line up, there are 3 grids: those who want a lot of instruction line up on the inside, those who don’t want quite as much in the middle, and those who would like the least line up outside. It works well. I’d like to say I jumped on my new sportbike and looked quite the pro. Umm…no. I could barely get in my leathers after being a slug during COVID. My age, inflexibility, and lack of fitness were telling: in the first session, looking through the last left in the esses while trying to hang off sportbike-style made me wonder if I should continue or just go slam my neck in the truck door, which would have had the same effect. Fortunately, I had the good sense to bring an S1000R with a riser on the tubular bars, so for the subsequent sessions Saturday, I rode the “old man’s machine” and had a much better learning experience. Nate himself


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2021

gave me some pointers about bending my inside arm to get me in a better cornering position. I was determined to ride that RR, so Sunday I switched to the Double-R and rode it in every session. I wasn’t tearing up the track, even in the beginner group, but the solid tips and lines I got from the first day had me riding the sportier machine with much more confidence and even comfort. When Nate announced that he’s doing a similar event at Circuit of the Americas in September, I was truly disappointed that I don’t have the vacation to do it. Everything about the Double-R Fest was top shelf, from the track to the instruction, as one would expect from a BMW-associated event. Each day featured a catered, cold-cut lunch and there was an excellent catered dinner Saturday night, where there was a new M1000RR bike over which to salivate. Three BMW Airflow jackets were raffled off. There were even tire and equipment vendors! A cherry on the sundae was the presence of three BMW M3 cars and professional drivers who took people on hot laps of the track during lunch hour. It reportedly had some experienced bike guys squirming in their seats and/or reaching for their checkbooks. Nate’s goal is to have the cars back for COTA, plus maybe even BMW demo bikes.

If you can make one of Nate Kern’s Double-R track days, no matter where it is held and what bike you ride, you can expect a safe, outstanding experience. You’ll be among a diverse, friendly, energetic group of enthusiasts, vendors, and instructors. I definitely hope he returns to VIR next year where hopefully a more svelte, experienced version of me can make a better showing with my new ride. I’m not only a big fan, I’m buying fans to bring. ,

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PRODUCT REVIEW

YOU CAN TAKE IT WITH YOU - BUNGEES AND BAGS Pamela Collins

Though as much as we two-wheeled travelers enjoy long, wandering excursions, when our meanderings lead us merely cross-town as opposed to cross-country, we can appreciate the opportunity to pack lightly. Cortech, the sportier sibling of Tourmaster motorcycle luggage, makes a Super 2.0 L 12-Liter Magnetic Tank Bag and Super 2.0 Tail Bag hit that Goldilocks sweet spot, providing enough, but not too much, motorcycle stowage.

CORTECH TANK BAG The tank bag, constructed from tough 1680D ballistic polyester and 1800D triple-layered twill Jacquard fabric on the outside, holds a fairly spacious 12-liters. It features an internal organizer in its top flap with slots for two pens, has one larger and two smaller pockets that secure with hoop and loop closure, and a key clip. The inside is lined in a soft, fleecy, red material that prevents scratches on your cargo and makes it easy to see what’s inside the bag.

What do 12-liters mean in real-world items? Well, I have had at various times a small water bottle, a small purse, an extra pair of gloves, and occasionally my Sony smaller-sized mirrorless camera, along with a small tablet, pens, lip balm, and hair ties. With all that I find the tank bank suits the bill for my daylong or even multi-day rides. The bag also features a removable, exterior map pocket. Now, most road maps have to be folded pretty small to fit in it, but at least we old-fashioned paper map types have something to which we can easily refer. However, I have found that when I need to use modern-day portable navigation, I can slip my cellphone into the map pocket and see the directions pretty well. Also, the map pocket exterior does allow a certain degree of touch sensitivity to operate the phone’s screen. Not to worry in wet weather, either. The Cortech 2.0 tank bag has an integrated stowaway rain cover that quickly appears when the weather turns foul, and it has a clear window so the map remains visible. Another external pocket holds various other small sundries you might need to carry, and the tank bag also offers exit ports for headphones and sip tubes. Phoslite® reflective piping maintains visibility when the ride gets dark. Underneath the bag uses a protective non-slip, non-scratch mounting base with a rubbery diamond pattern to protect a motorcycle’s paint from damage, and its one-way zipper neatly tucks into a “zipper garage” to keep it from rattling. A sturdy carrying handle and hideaway backpack straps assist carrying duties when taking the bag off the bike. I used the magnetic model, which holds securely and looks great on my Yamaha FZ6R motorcycle. Cortech also offers a strap-mounted version, as well as 18-liter, 10-liter, and micro 2.0-liter options. The 12-liter variant runs about $110.00.


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2021

CORTECH 2.0 TAIL BAG Overnight or multi-day trips require a bit more cargo room (at least for me), and that’s where the Cortech 2.0 Tail Bag fills the bill. The 24-liter bag uses much of the same exterior and interior materials as its tank bag counterpart, the same weight denier nylon, the same lining, the same type of integral lid organizer with hook and loop fastener pockets, and key clip, and the same reflective piping. Whereas many other tail bags fall “flat” when empty, looking misshapen and ugly, the Cortech 2.0 Tail Bag retains its smart, handsome profile. Cortech has imbued the pack with more rigid materials in its sides and top to prevent that deflated look other packs wear when empty. On each side you see a zipper running the bag’s circumference. Unzip and the sides expand, bringing the bag’s capacity to a generous 24-liters, enough for several days’ worth of clothes, camera gear, picnic supplies, or whatever. A separate zippered pocket resides on each side, providing more storage options, and another zippered compartment holds a rain cover. The bag mounts to a luggage rack or the bike’s rear pillion seat and comes complete with a mounting pad/base to prevent scratching the motorcycle’s paint, as well as nylon straps with neoprene covers to secure it to the bike. Should you need more cargo room, Cortech sells matching saddlebags and the tail pack easily attaches to those with a specific plastic connector system. When off the motorcycle it’s easy to quickly disconnect the tail pack from the bike to take the pack with you and its heavy, rubberized handle and included shoulder strap add to the portability factor. Cortech also offers a smaller 14-liter size tail bag. The 24-liter retails for $125. You can find these bags at helmethouse.com or your local dealer.

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A DIFFERENT KIND OF BUNGEE Sometimes, motorcycle luggage attachment presents a puzzling dilemma—just how to best strap and secure your carrying system without scratching your paint but also ensuring the load stays put? Enter the ever-present, lowly though functional, bungee cord. Essentially heavy-duty elastic cords, available in multiple sizes and colors, often frayed and stretched from use, they have strapped down many a motorcycle rider’s loads. A New Jersey company has elevated the bungee into something, well, better. The Perfect Bungee® company has ditched the elastic and replaced it with a product called Flexa-Pure®, a proprietary material that doesn’t contain rubber, plastic, or latex. This material lets the cord stretch to two times its original length but still return to its original size. They are UV-resistant, chemical, fuel, and oil resistant, and saltwater and fresh-water proof. They are also made in the USA. I have used two of their products to secure waterproof roll bags to my motorcycles and find they work quite well. One is called Adjust-A-Strap, and it eliminates the problem of requiring multiple length bungees for varying needs. It is a three-foot-long strap with six holes, giving you seven different lengths in one bungee…it can work as a foot-long cord up to a six-foot cord. It is molded to be flat, not rolled, so it creates a firmer grip on whatever it secures. It doesn’t use metal hooks but integrated nylon plastic hooks, and can stretch two times its length with 34 ft. lbs. of force. I have also tried the company’s Flex-Web, which looks like a spider with multiple legs that stretch to cover your gear and replaces the more common bungee nets. Manufactured from the same material as the Adjust-AStrap, you can get it with four, six, or eight-arm attachments varying in 12, 18, or 24-inch lengths. Each arm has the nylon plastic hook on one end, while the other end clips to a plastic-coated metal ring. Each arm can


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unclip from the ring to be used separately—an added feature. I like the feel of these bungees and appreciate how they don’t leave marks on my paint the way the elastic cord-type bungees have. The company’s products come in varying colors. I opted for Safety Orange because extra visibility doesn’t hurt. They sell bungees in many sizes and styles for varying prices. The Adjust-A-Strap retails for $7.99, while the Flex-Web cargo net sells for $36.99. All products have a lifetime warranty. For more information visit their website at www.theperfectbungee.com.

WHEN YOU NEED SOME EXTRA HELP—A BUNGEE BUDDY So, you have your luggage, your bungees, but…how to safely strap them to your bike?

Some motorcycles don’t offer adequate attachment points for luggage or bungees, but the Bungee Buddy system offers a remedy for that problem. Simply, the Bungee Buddy is a set of four stainless steel studs, nuts, and washers with a heavy-duty plastic loop attached to the stud. You screw these into places on your motorcycle to provide tie-down points you might be missing. I installed two on the top of my license plate holder in the back of the bike and voila…now I have a place to connect bungee cord ends, without worrying whether they will slip out or damage my bike’s paint. For $12.95 at various motorcycle online stores, they have resolved many motorcycle luggage attachment issues for me. ,

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

FRAME SLIDERS FROM GIVI

When we acquired the new Kawasaki Z900RS we wanted to keep the farkling and accessories to a minimum. But we still wanted some decent protection for the engine and machine. Givi, once again, had a stylish and workable solution. GIVI Frame sliders are made in polymer, reinforced in Fiberglass, with CNC-made anodized aluminum insert. Color options include black, green, red and silver and retail for $99. The sliders installed in 15 minutes and look like they came with the Z900. Every motorcycle is different so a separate fitting kit is sold separately. You can see if your bike is on the list - located in the bike specific section if available for your model. Visit giviusa.com for more information. ,


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PRODUCT REVIEW

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SQUEAKY DRY: ALPINESTARS TECH 7 ENDURO DRYSTAR BOOT

A few years ago I was leading an adventure bike tour through Wisconsin and a friend was helping me guide the group. During the ride I was bemoaning the fact that my boots were not waterproof and the water created some interesting odors after fermenting awhile down in the innards of my boots. I needed to find replacements. We found ourselves as roommates in the hotel that night and as he came out of the bathroom he told me that I “needed to do something about my boots” which were in the corner of the room. I naively said that I agreed that I needed to find a new pair that was a bit drier. His reply? “No, I mean you need to do something about those boots… NOW!!” I got the message and they found a home on the porch for the night. Thus started my search for the perfect boot. They needed to foremost be dry since I spend a lot of time riding in rain and doing water crossings. They also needed to have serious protection since the most common injury in adventure riding is having these big bikes fall on your leg. I never understood why Adventure boots’ claim to fame is that they are comfortable enough to walk in. If I wanted something I could walk in I would buy a pair of penny loafers. Give me serious armor. So, this all meant that I needed a motocross style boot that was waterproof. Lots of luck finding that. Most motocross guys don’t care about waterproofing since they are only in wet boots for the length of a short moto. I settled on a pair that was armored well but the reviews said that they were sort of water resistant. I compromised. Luckily I did not wear these yet when I saw an ad for the Alpinestars Tech 7 Enduro Drystar boot. Drystar is Alpinestars Gortex technology and the Tech series is well known for protection and riding comfort. When I saw the ad I was sure I heard angels singing and a beam of light dividing the clouds. I had to have these boots. I returned the first pair and waited 4 months for the Drystars to come out of back order. I am very glad I displayed uncharacteristic patience. These boots are all they are advertised to be. Extremely comfortable from the get-go. My feet slid in and out of the boots with no issues. They felt broke in from the first wearing. And while these are no Buster Browns to walk in, they aren’t bad. No painful rubbing areas around the ankles like some boots.

And are they REALLY waterproof ? Well, let’s just say I had no hesitation testing creek depth before entering a water crossing with my baby Tenere by walking through to calf depth. Rain? No issues. Especially when wearing over the boot pants. Because they are Gortex, and there is no real venting, the boots do tend to trigger my already overly responsive sweat glands. A little baby powder in the boots at the end of the day seems to do the trick. Remember, a sprinkle a day helps keep trench foot away! Now, for the noise. Yes, they are VERY squeaky. Hence the title of this article. I will not be sneaking up on anyone in these boots. On a recent ride one of the other riders was also wearing Drystars. We sounded like two outhouse doors at a Rolling Stones concert. It is annoying but by no means a deal breaker. If you are looking for comfortable, high quality, protective, waterproof boots that you might have to wear ear plugs for…you can find them in the Alpinestars Tech 7 Enduro Drystar boots. Pros: Comfortable, truly waterproof, protective Cons: Loud enough that you might lose some riding buddies Cost: $430 , Author: John Ciribassi is owner of Emmaus MotoTours (emmausmototours.com), a tour company focused on Adventure rides with a goal of introducing ADV riding to new riders. He is located in the western suburbs of Chicago and the mountains of North Central Pennsylvania. His legs also look great in motorcycle boots.


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PRODUCT REVIEW

NEW BRIDGESTONE BATTLAX SPORT TOURING TIRES AIM TO COMBAT WET WEATHER WORRIES On a good day, motorcycling still slings potentially life and limb-threatening challenges. On a wet, rainy day, well-- those challenges multiply greatly. The Bridgestone Tire company recently released the latest generation of its Battlax Sport Touring lineup, the new T32 and T32 GT, designed to help motorcyclists keep their rubber meeting the road even in the worst rain-drenched weather. I’ve used many prior versions of the Battlax tires on my Honda 919 and Yamaha FZ6R and always appreciated the new-and-improved features added through the years, benefits such as an improved ride, better traction, and longer tread life. The new T32 variation maintains that trend, featuring construction and compound modifications to enhance even more its already outstanding handling capabilities. These changes also bettered the tires’ high speed, straight, and cornering stability. Bridgestone says the new Battlax T32’s design features an increased groove ratio coupled with a 13-percent larger contact patch on the rear tire compared to the last generation T31 model. A larger contact patch means an improved overall contact area and connection to the road—always a good thing in this sport. But the most visible change in these motorcycle shoes is the new shape of the tires’ grooves. Bridgestone calls it Pulse Groove Technology. While most tires’ tread patterns resemble straight cut slashes that curve over the tire, the T32’s treads have waves-- the grooves undulate from thicker to thinner to thicker. Bridgestone calls them pulse-shaped. Inside the thicker, bulbous area of the tread lies small center deflectors. Bridgestone says these deflectors work to equalize water flow, improving water drainage and channeling rain across the tire, compared to straight grooves, which only optimize the water flows speed. Better drainage equates to better grip and adhesion to the road, and reduced tire slippage in wet conditions, again, a very good thing for riders. Bridgestone claims the T32’s shorten wet braking performance by seven percent compared to its predecessor, with no sacrifice of tread life. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on your point of view) I can’t yet attest to the T32’s wet weather claims as I installed them on my Yamaha FZ6R during Florida’s non-rainy March this year. However, after taking a multi-day trip through some of Florida’s inland hills and rural roads, I can vouch for the claims of improved ride quality and better

traction. Sandy corners and bumpy byways posed no challenge to the T32’s and I felt very confident with my bike’s new shoes. Other Battlax T32 news includes a new, fully dedicated T32GT line designed specifically for middleweight and heavy touring motorcycles. The GT’s feature a special and different pattern design from the non-GT’s that optimizes the unique needs of bigger, heavier motorcycles. The GT’s use the same Pulse Groove Technology, but combine it with an optimized groove positioning, construction, and special tread pattern stiffness that better suits these bikes, giving them the same improved wet performance and grip of non-GT’s along with a ten percent increase in wear life over the prior T31 model. For more information: www.bridgestonemotorcycletires.com. , ~ Pamela Collins


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THE LODGE AT MOUNTAIN LAKE

11 LAKESIDE DRIVE EAST, BELVIDERE, NJ 07823 908-750-4573 • WWW.LODGEATMOUNTAINLAKE.COM All around the region, in the Skylands of New Jersey, there are little backroads that lead to small hamlets – hardly towns at all - that hide real jewels. Above the Great Meadows of New Jersey and just to the west of the Delaware River is a high mountain lake – respectively call Mountain Lake. And, this time, there is actually a lake. We have had several friends rave about his place, so one nice spring afternoon we headed to the lower part of the Skylands. Just above Belvidere, on the ridge that lords over the valley that runs to the river, you will find Mountain Lake and along with that, the Lodge at Mountain Lake. This is certainly not on the beaten path, but it is so worth seeking out. Owners Jeff and Laura McConnell have been involved in the finer things for years. Jeff’s ability to create unique and exquisite designs comes from his passion for the art of construction. The location also hosts a general store to serve the community with groceries, freshly made breakfast and lunch sandwiches, along with the sale of alcohol package goods. What we truly like about the Lodge at Mountain Lake is that you have to seek it out. A true hidden gem. The menu is easy and simple. The General Store adds a bit more oldstyle Jersey flavor. They serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner – depending on the time of day. Breakfast has all the Jersey favorites – Taylor ham, bacon, sausage with eggs and cheese on your choice of bread, bagels and two specials – The Bukenmyer; a choice of meats, egg, and cheese with home fries or hash and The Beach Bar breakfast platter two eggs, meat, and potatoes. For later in the day the General Store offers hot dogs, burgers (The Bait Burger is amazing), pizza, and calzones and you’ll also have a wide choice of sandwiches such as The Glaciers – turkey, Swiss, bacon, tomato, onion, herb aioli on a Ciabatta roll. Another favorite is the Casino – salami, capicola, Virginia ham, provolone, lettuce, tomato, onion, red wine vinegar on a 10-inch hero roll. For those who like things greener – you can order The Bikini – a wrap

Page 37 with roasted green/ yellow squash, red peppers, red onion, spinach, fresh mozzarella, herb aioli on your choice of wrap. The Lilly Pad is a superb salad made up of mixed spring greens, shredded carrots. Cucumbers, grape tomatoes, feta cheese, toasted walnuts, cranberries served with a balsamic vinaigrette dressing on the side. Taking a seat outside along the shore of the lake is a treat and, combined with the great 100-mile route we will give you, you will end up with a most excellent day on the bikes. We’ll start you off from Hermy’s BMW/ Triumph in Port Clinton, PA. Herm and staff run a top-notch shop, with some vintage stuff to pique your interest while perusing the new bikes, accessories and other offerings. Along the way you will pass a very special place, certainly worth a stop. Columcille, a place for peaceful reflection, is filled with some amazing rock formations in the Megalith Park as well as the St. Columba Chapel, with a total of over 80 standing stones, with work still continuing. It is located on the Kitatinni Ridge of the Appalachian Mountains. It is open daily from dawn to dusk, with suggested donations posted. , Download .gpx here: www.sendspace.com/file/0yew8p


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The Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. presents

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

The Motorcycle Mechanic’s Secret Weapon by Frank L. Palmeri There are many reasons you might decide to do at least some of the work on your own motorcycles. Saving money and making sure the job is done right are two that quickly come to mind. Of course, you’ll need some basic tools, like micrometers, torque wrenches, multi-meters, and plenty more, to do this work. Guess what, there is one tool you need that you may not have expected to find in a motorcycle mechanic’s tool kit, and that tool is pantyhose. Don’t believe me? Read on, intrepid traveler, to find out why. Let’s say you want to do a top end job on your bike. After disconnecting the battery and removing ancillary equipment like the tank and side covers, following the instructions in your shop manual (you do have a shop manual, I hope) you remove the cylinder head, barrel, pistons, and now you’re staring at the crankcase with the connecting rods sticking out. Pro tip: save some cardboard toilet paper tubes, they are great for sticking over the connecting rods so they don’t get nicked on the case and create potentially disastrous stress risers. At this point you should cover the bottom end with a sturdy towel to keep things from falling in. Some guys even make up a plywood piece with slots for the rods and holes to fit over the case studs. Doing these things is great in a perfect world, but as we know the world is not perfect, and things will eventually fall into the bottom end of your engine. I follow a lot of the internet bike forums, and trust me, this happens a lot. If you’re lucky and the nut or bolt or whatever you dropped in the engine is magnetic, a telescoping rod magnet tool is a good way to get it out. But what if what you drop in there is not magnetic (aluminum crush washers quickly come to mind). Here is where the pantyhose come in. Take your shop vacuum, place the pantyhose over the nozzle, and hopefully you can extricate the item without sucking it into the messy vacuum. If the nozzle is too big, get some clear plastic tubing and duct tape it to the nozzle. With any luck the item will come out. Don’t try this without the pantyhose, really – you’ll never be sure if the item came out or not, and you don’t want to risk starting an engine when something extraneous might be in there. Just to let you know I’m really not being facetious here, I’ve heard of guys getting a bunch of friends together in this situation to literally turn the bike upside down and shake it until whatever fell in there just falls out. Think about it, if you can’t it out, the only alternative is to remove the engine and split the cases, which is a really big job. That pantyhose might save you from this ordeal is quite extraordinary, I think, but we’re not done with uses for it yet. Many of us keep a truck or tow vehicle around to bring home stranded motorcycles now and then. If your vehicle has v-pulleys and a belt breaks, you can actually tie pantyhose around the pulleys, and hopefully they’ll keep the water pump and alternator turning long enough to get you to a gas station or auto parts store to get a new belt. Not a bad in the field fix. Don’t know if it also works on serpentine belt pulleys, and hope never to find out. One more motorcycle related pantyhose anecdote. A long time ago “Rider” magazine printed a letter from a guy, I think his name was Mark. He said he’d been out riding, badly misjudged the weather, and was freezing his ganooties off. So he pulled into a convenience store, where he bought and put on a pair of pantyhose. “The added warmth made

the ride home a lot better,” he wrote, continuing “and the best thing is, no one has to know you have them on.” I can’t remember who the editor was at the time, but his response was classic: “We all know now, Mark.” The next time you go into the Piggly Wiggly or the Stop ‘n Shop and see a big guy with a leather jacket, chaps, and a motorcycle helmet wandering around the hosiery aisle, why don’t you offer to help him remove whatever fell into his engine, or fix his vehicle, or ask if he’s cold? I’m certain he’ll appreciate it very much. ,


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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

Page 39

TOURATECH BMW TFT SCREEN ANTI-THEFT GUARD (2017+)

Yes, friends, it is time once again to cross over to the strange place called Alternate Universe… Mike had taken a run into Manhattan to visit some friends and have a great dinner. It was a nice Sunday afternoon, light traffic and he thought he take his new 2021 BMWR1250GS, rather than the ferry and subway. He grew up in the city and prefers a more rural sort of riding, but this was an exception to the rule. The day was great and they all walked over a few blocks to a trendy restaurant, leaving the GS parked and locked outside his friend’s apartment. When the meal was done, they were going to head back for some coffee and dessert, but approaching his BMW, Mike knew something was… different. “Oh, shit, no way” he yelled and rushed to his machine. His friends, startled and confused, quickly followed him. “What’s wrong?” they asked. “My screen is gone!”

“What, where – whatcha mean?” his friends asked, growing more concerned as Mike was obviously beside himself with shock and anger. Where the slick TFT display once was – the TFT that is today’s version of the gauges - was a wide-open and empty space with just a few wired and plugs dangling. Meanwhile at that same exact time in an Alternate Universe… Mike had taken a run into Manhattan to visit some friends and have a great dinner. It was a nice Sunday afternoon, light traffic and he thought he take his new 2021 BMWR1250GS, rather than the ferry and subway. He grew up in the city and prefers a more rural sort of riding, but this was an exception to the rule. The day was great and they all walked over a few blocks to a trendy restaurant, leaving the GS parked and locked outside his friend’s apartment. When the meal was done, they were going to head back for some coffee and dessert. But before they went upstairs they spent some time letting Mike show off his new GS – his friends particularly taken with the bright and slick operating TFT screen. After coffee Mike took the long way home – it was summer and great to be on a new machine. This crime is happening far too often these days – especially in larger cities, but it can happen anywhere and at any time. It does not take much to rip a TFT off a bike, as the TFT display is secured with only three weak retaining rings. One strong pull and the entire TFT unit is gone. Don’t let your $1700+ TFT display be stolen, protect it with this TFT guard from Touratech. It is easily installed and makes things very hard for an opportunistic thief who spots a TFT screen that can make him some quick bucks. You can get some cheap and effective protection for your GS from touratech-usa.com for around $55. Money well spent – just ask Mike. ,


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2021

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UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR OCTOBER 2021 2 • Woodstock HOG’s Fall Leaf Peeper Tour to benefit the Shriner’s Hospital for Kids, Philadelphia, PA. Self-guided tours, food truck, 50/50, Pete’s Jeepers Peepers Ride, games and more. Suggested donation: Rider $15/Passenger $10. Ride 10am-3pm-ish (or longer?). For more details: WoodstockHarley.com or find them on Facebook 8-10 • Progressive IMS Outdoors • James L. Ward Agriculture Ctr, Lebanon, TN. The newly rebranded tour, previously known as the Progressive International Motorcycle Shows (IMS), will provide exciting hands-on experiences. Tickets on sale now. Full details here motorcycleshows.com 10 • Forever Friends Motorcycle Awareness Charity Bike Run. Sussex County Fairgrounds, 37 Plains Rd, Augusta, NJ • 10am-9pm • $20/rider; $10/non-rider. 15 Food Trucks, live music by Rated R and Beckwith Baker, North Jersey Hot Rods car show, tricky tray and 50/50. Ride Sign-in: 9:30a-12p • Scenic Ride: 12:30-2p. For full details visit foreverfriendsmotorcycleawareness.org 16 • 5th Annual Horsham Toys for Tots Run to benefit the Marine Corp. Toys for Tots Program. Sign in: Freedom Valley Harley-Davidson, 3255 State Rd, Sellersville, PA • 10am / KSU 11:30am. Finish: Bikes Built Better, 133 Horsham Rd, Horsham, PA. Enjoy a police-escorted, 30+ mile ride tjhrough beautiful Bucks and Montgomery counties. Complimentary hot lunch served for riders at Bikes Built Better, All motorcycles, trikes and cars welcome. Entry: 1 unwrapped toy or $15/per person (NO DOLLS OR STUFFED ANIMALS, PLEASE). 50/50 tickets now on sale - drawing to be held at end of ride. Info: John Davis @ 302-730-8899 (rain date Oct. 23) 29-31 • Progressive IMS Outdoors • Georgia Int’l Horse Park, Conyers, GA. The newly rebranded tour, previously known as the Progressive International Motorcycle Shows (IMS), will provide exciting hands-on experiences. Tickets on sale now. Full details here motorcycleshows.com

What’s Happening




Articles inside

TOURATECH BMW TFT ANTITHEFT

2min
page 41

WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE

4min
page 40

I KNOW THIS PLACE

3min
page 39

BRIDGESTONE BATTLAX ST TIRES

2min
page 38

ALPINESTARS TECH 7 BOOTS

3min
page 37

FANCY COLOURS

10min
pages 26-31

BUNGEES AND BAGS

6min
pages 34-35

GIVI FRAME SLIDERS

2min
page 36

CALL ME A FAN

5min
pages 32-33

INSIDE SCOOP

5min
pages 24-25

WE’RE OUTTA HERE

5min
pages 21-23

INDUSTRY INFOBITES

8min
pages 11-13

BIG CITY GETAWAY

5min
pages 18-20

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN

5min
pages 16-17

WHATCHATHINKIN’

3min
page 7

ON THE MARK

3min
page 8

MYSTERIOUS AMERICA

4min
pages 14-15

FREE WHEELIN’

3min
page 6

BACKLASH

7min
pages 9-10
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