March 2022

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W H AT ’ S I N S I D E

BACKROADS • MARCH 2022

MONTHLY COLUMNS FREE WHEELIN’ ........................................ 4

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

WHATCHATHINKIN’ ................................... 5

Publishers

ON THE MARK .......................................... 6 THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD ................... 7

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BACKLASH ............................................... 8 INDUSTRY INFOBITES............................... 9 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN......... 10

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

Contributors Mark Byers, John Ciribassi, Pamela Collins, Cary Dixon, Michael ONeill, Frank L.Palmeri Dr. Seymour O’Life Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, NJ 07822

BIG CITY GETAWAY................................. 12 WE’RE OUTTA HERE ............................... 14 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA .......................... 16 INSIDE SCOOP ....................................... 18

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WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE .................... 40

FEATURES

phone

973.948.4176

fax

973.948.0823

email

editor@backroadsusa.com

online

www.backroadsusa.com

Advertising

973-948-4176

ROAD WORK........................................... 20

Follow Us

Backroads-Motorcycle-Touring-Magazine

CLASS: TAKING IT TO THE TRACK .......... 27

Tweet Us

@BackroadsGal

See Us

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SPRING BREAK UPDATE ......................... 32 YORK PVR SWAP MEET .......................... 33 A DAY IN THE LIFE .................................. 36

PRODUCT REVIEWS SCHUBERTH C4 PRO WOMEN HELMET .. 23 SRC PROTECTION GUARDS.................... 25 SBV TOOL KITS ...................................... 26

33 ON THE COVER from Road Work: A “stellar” evening ride on The Blue Ridge Parkway a little south of Rockfish Gap, VA. Michael ONeill’s BMW F800GT under the Milky Way.

BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2022. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.


BACKROADS • MARCH 2022

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BACKROADS • MARCH 2022

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FR E E W H E EL I N’ BRIAN RATHJEN

NAME THAT ROAD I am fairly certain that most of us have played the game “Name that Tune?” Sure… you listen to the first few bars or a snippet of the chorus of a song, tune, or piece of music and then try to name the correct title and maybe artists and year for extra points. This game came to mind the other day when going through some of the ads you see in this magazine. One shop in Virginia has some beautifully done ads that feature a fairly well-known and scenic piece of asphalt along the Blue Ridge Parkway. The ad, depending on the season, will feature this road in the spring, summer, or bursting with fall colors. Each time I see it I am brought back to the many times we have ridden over the Linn Cove Viaduct. I got to thinking that traveling riders, and car enthusiasts for that matter, can have their own game they can play. Name that Road… The well-traveled, if shown a photograph of some roads found around the nation and the world, might be able to give the name of the said thoroughfare. Even those of us who have never been to Italy might identify the famed Paso del Stelvio, the highest road in the eastern Alps. The more I thought about it, other picturesque roads rode into my mind. It would be easy to name some of these if we showed you a picture or two. Seven Mile Bridge in the Florida Keys or the Dragon at Deal’s Gap. There is no mistaking Highway 1 – the Pacific Coast Highway heading along the coast of California. In Romania, there is the Transfagarasan Highway, known as Ceausescu’s Folly, which covers over 50 miles of terrain through the Carpathian Mountains. It’s the second-highest paved road in the country and was originally

built as a strategic military road to defend against a potential Soviet invasion. Top Gear called it the greatest roadway on the planet. Famed roads often pop up in films - like the Atlantic Ocean Road. This 8-kilometer-long section runs through and over an archipelago in Møre og Romsdal, Norway, and if you have seen the new James Bond film, No Time to Die, this was the road to Madeline’s home in the film. Okay, not a lot of Americans have had the chance to ride this road, but with its Yes album cover art look and dramatic seascape it is one worth knowing about. Another road that you might know of, even if it is just from images on a screen or in a book (remember those), is the Yungas Road in the mountains of Bolivia. Also known as the Death Road it still, even though parts are now paved, claims nearly 200 souls every year. Riding along this single-lane road, literally etched into a side of a mountain with not a guardrail to be found, is not for the weak of heart or those with acrophobia. In South Africa, there is Chapman’s Peak Drive, which winds its way along the Atlantic Coast of the southwestern tip of South Africa. Just 6 miles in length, it has 114 curves and skirts the rocky coastline of Chapman’s Peak. Back in Norway, there is the Trollstigen, another road that – when you see an image of it – you might know where you are. Closer to home two high river roads should be instantly recognizable to most of us – the Hawk’s Nest on the Delaware and Storm King Mountain that runs high above the Hudson River. Both are similar and both can be fun to ride, albeit a short ride. Some might remember that Dr. Strange drove his Lambo off the Hawks’ Nest but remarkably landed in the Hudson off the Harlem River Drive. When we saw the road in the movie, which we had just ridden two hours earlier, we almost jumped out of our seats. In Nova Scotia, the stunning Cabot Trail that encircles Cape Breton Island has been a favorite of ours and many other riders for years. Name That Road adds a new twist to a picture is worth a thousand words… Do any famed roads pop into your mind? ,


BACKROADS • MARCH 2022

W H AT C H AT HI NK I N ’ SHIRA KAMIL

A SIDE OF SYRUP Indecision may or may not be your problem. I’m not sure if this is more evident in women or if I just notice it more in women. I know that the number of people involved in decision-making determines the time it takes to get to that decision as well as the amount of twists and turns of the path to said decision. I am thankful that the past 25 years of Backroads’ rallies have only two people making those choices, and even then, it can be a bit painful (just ask Brian). Consider planning a long journey; if you decide to head out on your own, you’ll know your starting and ending points. To absolutely minimize, you will meander from Point A to Point B, given the amount of time you’ve got, and probably have an amazing adventure. In today’s age of electronic planning, perhaps you’ll throw together a route for your device so you’ll have a reference of where you’ll be when. Then you might do a little research as to what interesting road, sights and such are near that route so you’ll have some worthy stopping points and postable images. Going deeper down the rabbit hole, you might find friends and family that you haven’t seen in a while and put a pin in the map for a possible visit. Oh, and there are those ‘Top Ten’ hot dog/ice cream/ barbeque places you just can’t miss. And you can’t miss the Giant Ball of Twine or Going to the Sun Highway. See, you’ve gone from a serendipitous adventure to what may look like a family vacation road trip from your youth. If you ask a friend or two to join the fun, multiply the time, stops and aggravation by 10, as they will have their own list of friends, family and must-see stops on their list.

Page 5 Dorothy: Now which way do we go? Scarecrow: Pardon me. That way is a very nice way...[pointing] Scarecrow: It’s pleasant down that way too!...[pointing in another direction] Scarecrow: Of course, people do go both ways [pointing in both directions] That’s the trouble. I can’t make up my mind. I haven’t got a brain. Only straw. Dorothy: How can you talk if you haven’t got a brain? The Scarecrow: I don’t know. But some people without brains do an awful lot of talking, don’t they? Dorothy: Yes, I guess you’re right. We have held our Summer Squeeze rallies 10 times, on and off, since 1999. Many of our Backroads peeps look forward to the return to West Dover, Vermont almost as a family reunion. I remember one year Brian and I had other plans for August and were not going to arrange this get together. Many were disappointed and we told them that just because we were not available, they should go ahead and plan it themselves; choose the date, let us know and we’d post it for all to see. Did this happen? No, it did not, because there were more than two people involved in the decision-making and that decision was never made. It was a lost opportunity because of waffling – and not the delicious strawberry-covered one. As we head into the splendid spring season, I hope that you have made your riding plans for the upcoming year. December through February, during the dark, cold days and nights of winter (at least here at Backroads Central) are best spent with maps in hand and dreams filling our heads. Where have we NOT gone, what roads have we NOT ridden and what sights are we longing to see? Brian and I share many of the same destination desires but have our own ‘want-tos’ as well. Many might think that Continued on Page 8


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O N T H E MAR K MARK BYERS

THE SEVENTH CONTINENT: A MIRACLE ON ICE This has naught to do with motos, but there is interest in whether Betsy and I made it to Antarctica. We did and it is nothing short of a miracle. Some of you travel to far-flung destinations, so maybe you’ll enjoy our lastminute, hook-slide-to-glory, Antarctic story. We planned for over a year and initially, didn’t believe COVID would be a factor. Remember “two weeks to flatten the curve” and then two years of prognostications? During 2021, we’d given up, telling the organizer we’d rather wait another year than do something that could fail spectacularly (foreshadowing). But with cases trending down, in October Argentina announced they’d open their borders on 1 November. Since Ushuaia, Argentina was our ship’s point of departure,

and the cruise line put up the green light, suddenly we were “on” and needed last-minute flights and a gear-buying frenzy. Vital was a negative PCR test within 72 hours of departure. That test, and every subsequent one, was a Sword of Damocles hanging over our heads, ready to lop them off at the slightest hint of infection. The day prior to flying, we paid dearly for tests and wandered aimlessly, awaiting emails that would either set us free or send us home. Fortunately, the tests were negative! The next part of the miracle was providing that information in electronic form to both the airline and the Argentines. I stumbled through the Argentine web site and uploaded the requisite documents, but poor Betsy kept getting rejected even though her PDFs were identical to mine. It took ten attempts and three electronic devices (she finally succeeded with her phone) to get the Argentine web site to accept her stuff. The problems were widespread: when we got to Houston, the layover point for our flight to Buenos Aires, one couple was outside the airport security area STILL trying to upload their tests and immigration documents. Thanks to a delay to clean our aircraft, that couple made it to the gate just prior to departure. One guy had to create a new email account and another guy got so disgusted that he used his “cancel for any reason” travel insurance and just didn’t go! We felt like we’d dodged the sword multiple times and we hadn’t even left the US. The 9-hour flight was uneventful and the Argentine officials perfunctorily looked at hard copies of the precious immigration and test documents, didn’t check our vax cards, and stamped us in. The hotel in B-A was great, as was the food and the weather. Our flight to Ushuaia went seamlessly and we had more excellent hotels and food in the “City at the End of the World.” We had to pass another test to board the ship. We sat in a catholic-school gym to await the results, which was appropriate given that we were praying we would pass, which we did, a miracle considering the three flights and the ensuing travel through major airports we’d done. As they say on TV, “But wait! There’s MORE!” We had to pass a test every two days on the ship and failing would mean banishment to an isolation cabin at best or turning the ship around at worst. Fortunately, every single one of the 148 people on our ship, crew and passengers, passed every one, including the one required to disembark. We travelled over 19,000 miles in 23 days of December, with zero cancelled flights and just a few minor delays. At the start of our trip, Omicron had just reared its ugly head, airlines were cancelling flights at a high rate, and it looked like it might be a debacle after all, but we made it! The Sword of Damocles claimed neither of our heads. That sword was not to be unfed: two cycles after our cruise, the ship had 48(!) people test positive and they returned to port. There were no rooms within 150 miles of Ushuaia because of the cancellations and stranded, quarantining tourists. The Dutchbased cruise line cancelled the rest of their Antarctic season and is returning both ships to their home port. They are still enroute, with their crews stranded aboard until they get home (roughly a 31-day trip at 10 knots). I estimate their revenue loss for the two ships at over $18 million. I’ll regale you with tales of the continent itself in the future, but for now I wanted you to get a taste of our “Miracle on Ice.” ,


BACKROADS • MARCH 2022

THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD THE TEST Oh, my heart skips a beat when we walk down the street I feel a tremblin’ in my knees And just to know you’re mine until the end of time Makes my heart skip a beat Buck Owens Have you ever thought of testing your bike? In truth there are many ways to do this and for many different things. But really only one should count. For example, you can: Bring your bike to a shop that has a dynamometer and have them run it. You’ll get a detailed report on how much power and torque you make, your fuel mixture, and much more. This is always fun. You can measure precisely how much fuel you add and then use mile markers and GPS to carefully calculate your miles per gallon. Everyone wants to save on fuel costs. You can find a large open space and then see how far you can lean that baby over in the turns. Be careful when you do this; it’s called “peg scraping” for a reason. You can do your best Rollie Free impersonation and see what your absolute maximum top speed is. For your safety and ours, please do this during a track day event or on some other closed course. These tests and others like them produce quantifiable and comparable data so you can evaluate your motorcycle in comparison to others. However, I submit to you that there is only one test that really matters when evaluating your current motorcycle or any other motorcycle you may be considering. That test is what I call the Heartbeat test. Here’s how you do it. Wait until it’s the dead of winter, then go out to your garage, shed, barn, or wherever it is you store your bike. Then take the cover off and just stare

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Frank L. Palmeri at it in all its winter hibernation glory. At that moment, if your heart skips a beat, you have the right motorcycle. To wit—you should be standing there, breath fogging up your glasses, rubbing your chilled hands together, having thoughts like: “I wonder what other goodies from Aerostich and Twisted Throttle I should install? Who should I ask to share a room with at Americade this year? That ride on the Kancamagus Highway last year was awesome! I can’t wait to ride to that diner in PA with the giant omelets that Brian and Shira wrote about. Should I go for my ‘This Bike Climbed Mt. Washington’ sticker this year? Which advanced rider training class should I sign up for? You know, I’ve never ridden down to Bike Week in FL in March… Is it too early to reserve that KOA cabin in the Finger Lakes again?” And on and on like this. If, when you look at your bike, your heart doesn’t skip a beat and thoughts like the above don’t run through your head, you may want to consider getting a different one. I know this doesn’t apply to everyone – some of my buddies in the Iron Butt Association consider bikes as tools to get a job done and will change them out at will – but truly, if your bike passes the Heartbeat test, you’ve got the right bike. Don’t think that, because this test is subjective and based on non-measurable or “touchy- feely” factors, it’s not valid. Put it this way: when you wake up in a tent the morning after the night before at an annual motorcycle rally where you only see your buddies once a year, you better hope, when you pull that tent zipper down and poke your throbbing head out, the bike you see parked there, with its side-stand planted on a tiny piece of wood laying in the damp grass, says to you “Let’s go ride 50 miles for hot coffee and a bagel, right now!” Believe me, if you’re lucky enough to have a bike that passes the Heartbeat test, it will. Good riding to you! ,


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BACKLASH Hey, we are a PRINT magazine too Brian & Shira, Please add me to your email list. John Eckel, Frank Vassello and I met you guys about 3 years ago at Thisilldous where we had a nice chat and you gave us Backroads stickers. I usually get my monthly issue at Montgomeryville Cycle Center in Hatfield, PA, and occasionally at Martin Moto in Boyertown, PA. Thanks Dave Trabert • Richboro, PA We do not have a monthly e-mail of Backroads.But you can find them online here: backroadsusa.com/backroads-online I have added you to our weekly The Backroads Report – out every Saturday morning! You have to confirm this signup when you receive the email notice… Hope all is well with you guys and hope to see you on the road soon! Hi, I’m interested in subscribing to any of your motorcycle print magazines, please what are they? Jo There is only one – Backroads Magazine, in print for the past 28 years and going strong. Please read below for reading choices. Where can I find your magazine or can I order it? I’m in Clarksville TN 37043 Thank you Dave Marzola Your best bets are to either order a subscription ($40/year First Class mail) or read it online: backroadsusa.com/subscription for subscriptions and issuu.com/backroadsmagazine for our digital magazine, of which there are twelve years’ worth.

The Backroads Report 200th Edition Being in Arizona has the drawback of not being able to pick up a copy of your fine magazine. The weekly emag is a welcome present. Thank you.. No cost take off on National Geographic, always learn something and it never disappoints. T. Deming WHATCHATHINKIN’ Continued from Page 5 we are free to be on the road any time we like, but we do have a schedule that needs to be kept. We have a maximum of three weeks at a clip to do our adventuring, which can certainly hold a great deal of adventuring. But where to go when, that is the question. Whenever you’re called on to make up your mind, and you’re hampered by not having any, the best way to solve the dilemma, you’ll find, is simply by spinning a penny.

BACKROADS • MARCH 2022

Letters to the Editor Brian, The Backroads report is something I have grown to look forward to on a Saturday morning. The links to interesting and often obscure things are always educational and entertaining. It’s a better way to keep informed of upcoming events than the printed Backroads. The only suggestion I would make is maybe include some pictures of events. Maybe downloadable Rip n’ Rides? Other than that, keep doing what you’re doing. Rabbi Dan Congrats on making it to 200. May there be many more. I am loving Backroads Report. Good morning ... I would like to sign up for your Backroads weekly enewsletter, but don’t see how to do this on your website. Could you sign me up, or direct me how to do so? Thank you! Mark Cuppernull We realized that it was not as easy to find as we’d like it to we’ll sign you up – you just need to accept the weekly emails. We will change the site so it will be more visible because the more the merrier when it comes to readers. Hi Brian: Nice reprint/reminder of fun times in your Saturday reportage. I met Brenda when she covered The Elephant Ride in Colorado a few years earlier. When she was having trouble getting Thompson to accept her telephone calls over the CYCLE WORLD debacle, she called me to see if I could help...LOL - not a chance. I met Thompson twice, once when he was waving a gun in front of his house and a second time when he was pissing on his shoes and the wall above the sink in an Aspen bar. Recounted the story in my book ADVENTURE MOTORCYCLIST - Chapter 7. Edwards - the $10,000 was the most even paid for a single article at CYCLE WORLD...and foolishly Edwards paid up front. I first caught on to Thompson when he was submitting FEAR AND LOATHING article in ROLLING STONE...aging myself here. Always been a fan, but he proved after I met him that you never want to meet an author whose work you admire. Best, Dr. G No—not so that chance shall decide the affair while you’re passively standing there moping; but the moment the penny is up in the air, you suddenly know what you’re hoping. You know where you’d like to go, it’s just the fact of actually doing it. There has been much talk recently about coin tosses – don’t let your desires be determined by that. Make your decision, pack your bike and get on the road. Leave the waffling to the diner folks who do it so well. See you on the road, wherever you may roam. ,


BACKROADS • MARCH 2022

INDUSTRY INFOBITES NOISE-DETECTING CAMERA TO ROLL IN FRANCE Traffic cameras that can identify excessively noisy motorcycles and vehicles are being deployed across France, with riders and drivers who flout the rules facing fines of €135 ($153USD). The debate over the devices, which have been trialed in various countries across Europe, has run rife for some time, but the French are the first nation to initiate a wider roll-out of cameras that will flash and fine motorcycles and vehicles that exceed noise levels. The Bruitparif-designed Meduse cameras feature microphones attached to a camera that can pick up and identify the direction of noise from the road below. Should the sound rise above a certain decibel, the camera is activated and a fine is subsequently issued. Though noise cameras are -- officially speaking -- aimed at all vehicles, many feel motorcycles are unfairly targeted compared to cars with many routes popular with bikers used during trials.

FOR WHAT IT’S WORTH… MOTORCYCLE RACERS BLINK LESS A recent study has found that MotoGP riders blink far less than nonracers, with one test subject going 9 minutes without blinking! During the first round of the 2021 MotoGP season, Pramac Ducati rider Johann Zarco set a new series top-speed record of 225 mph. At that speed, riders cover 330 feet in one second. The average blink takes 0.15 seconds, so riders traveling at that top velocity are effectively blind for nearly 50 feet of track. That sounds like a terrifying prospect to us mere mortals, but a study between LCR Honda and Italian pharmaceutical company Sifi helps explain how MotoGP riders’ eyes function in such extreme conditions. Conducted over six MotoGP seasons (2015-2021), Grand Prix riders would undergo tests prior to the race and 30 minutes following the checkered flag. The dual-test method revealed that rider reaction times and pupil performance

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News from the Inside remain in “Race Mode” for an extended period. All racers easily exceeded the normal 4-6-second blink interval, and despite the stressful conditions, none of the subjects exhibited red, dry eyes or inflammation. The results may be fascinating, but Sifi co-owner Carlos Chines believes this is just the beginning of a broader, long-term study. “We basically want to continue researching the differences between ‘normal’ eyes and those of MotoGP riders,” revealed Dr. Chines. “We also want to investigate the relationship between concentration and blink rate. From these results, we expect to understand whether one can work with little tricks, exercises, or eye drops to counteract fatigue, dry or sore eyes, and deterioration in vision.”

MOTOGP WILL NOT RACE IN COUNTRIES REQUIRING COVID QUARANTINES When MotoGP resurfaced in October 2021, it looked like Grand Prix motorcycle racing might return to normal, packing the schedule with 21 rounds including eight outside Europe, but the Delta and Omicron variant waves caused many countries to reinstate travel restrictions -- including quarantines upon arrival -- forcing organizers to play musical chairs with the calendar throughout the year. Dorna CEO Carmelo Ezpeleta sent a clear message at a recent racing forum that MotoGP will not visit countries in 2022 that require CoViD-19 quarantines; “If they tell us that we have to be quarantined for fourteen days, the answer is clear, no, I’m not going! That’s the limit,” Ezpeleta claimed. “As for the rest, they can ask us to have vaccination certificates or the documentation that we already did last year and that is why it was important to go to the United States as a test of what can be said to the rest of the countries.” Last year, MotoGP successfully ran events in Qatar and the United Continued on Page 39


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Thisilldous Eatery presents

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN GYP’S TAVERN

25 US-206, BRANCHVILLE, NJ 07826 973-948-5013 • www.facebook.com/Gyps-Tavern-238167643330 When I grew up in New York City I had never even gone to the Empire State building till I was showing cousins from Scotland the city. Sometimes that is just how it happens – we miss the jewels that are right in front of us. I am not sure when or why Shira and I went to Gyp’s, up along Route 206, in New Jersey, on the way to Pennsylvania – but we did; and like our beloved Elias Cole – Gyp’s Tavern is a wonderful throwback to northwest New Jersey history. History? History, you ask? Well, being dyed in the wool Mets fans, we are still awed that a certain Yankee came up here and sat, drank, and caroused at the same bar that is here today. Some guy named George Herman Ruth. Yes… the Bambino! With 22 seasons from 1914 through 1935 – he is, without a doubt, our nation’s most famous ballplayer. The Babe was a big fisherman and hunter, and the region of north Jersey, back in the day, was more forest than towns and game was plentiful. When the Bambino came to this region – just a few hours from Yankee stadium - to hunt, he liked to have an occasional adult beverage – and he’d head to Gyp’s Tavern. And traveling up Route 206 along Lake Kittatinny, you will find that Gyp’s Tavern is still there. Established in 1943, by George “Gyp” Roselli, Gyp’s is a small rus-

tasty places to take your bike

tic log cabin bar, nothing fancy, and certainly not the kind of place you’d expect to walk into and find one of the most famous celebrities of his day sitting and drinking beer. But the Babe was there, and there’s a display case full of photos of him in the bar to prove it. One of the pictures, an 8×10 portrait of Ruth in his Yankee uniform, is autographed to the then owner of the tavern, which reads, “To Pal Gyp, Sincerely Babe Ruth.” Ruth had befriended the owner of the bar and the two men enjoyed many hunting and fishing trips together when Babe visited the area. These days Gyp’s is one of the last old New Jersey watering holes, but is far more and now owned by Linda Wheeler and Bill Miller, two Air Force C-5 Galaxy pilots, which sits incredibly well with us here at Backroads. Yes, I am just a bit non compos mentis, over military aircraft and the C-5… well, big! How many motorcycles do you think they could move for us? It is not unusual to find us there on a late weekday afternoon, our cheap date night as it is. Although a beer or two might be had, we’re really there for the pool table, the stunning lake, and most importantly – the food. So, let’s remember this is probably the best local bar in Sussex County, but not a restaurant. But anything and everything we


BACKROADS • MARCH 2022 have ordered here has been off the charts delicious – like no other bar food we have found. We’re there early so Kristen is usually at the bar pouring drinks to the “most friendly” local crowd (big boys that, on occasion, make me feel like Tatoo from Fantasy Island) and Theresa is in the kitchen, making pub food magic. Gyp’s Burgers are almost legendary – big, juicy, always perfectly done. You can have them a number of ways – including bacon or Swiss mushroom and onion or, ‘cause we’re in the Garden State (barely), their Jersey Burger with all the fixings and Taylor ham – not pork roll you damn southerners. I have fallen for Gyp’s bratwurst – always delicious and filling – unlike other sausage sandwiches. Shira, on the other hand, raves about Gyp’s chicken BLT. I would trust the redhead on this. The onion rings are always amazing. If you wish to keep civilized Gyp’s has salads as well – chicken done with balsamic, from Buffalo or you can have your burger on a salad too if you want to stay away from too much bread. Coconut shrimp, pizza among other tasty treats can be served up as well. The menu changes on occasion, but you will usually find what they are offering on a simple blackboard easel. What makes Gyp’s Tavern so great though is the staff and the

Page 11 crowd. To this day no one has intruded on our pool games. For the record, although we show up with our own pool cues does not mean we have any skill or talent. We play better for the first few and then are horrid after Theresa brings out the food. I think my new nickname is “Scratch!” So, we have a historic old New Jersey bar … one of the last of its kind. We have a happy local crowd, a super jukebox, and some really, really Great Food. Written with caps for a reason. But Gyp’s Tavern has one more VERY important thing - The view. Be it summer or winter – the view of Lake Kittatinny is astounding. Shira even brought her sister, Rowena, and our persnickety brother-in-law Richie there for lunch on a late autumn day. They too fell in love with Gyp’s - big Yankee fans this side of the family; thus the Babe made it that much better for them. If you are riding along the backroads of the Skylands of New Jersey and want a real treat then stop in at Gyp’s Tavern. The people, the crowd, the view and, especially, the food will not disappoint. Just don’t put a quarter on the pool table – it’s ours! ,


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Frontline Eurosports presents

BIG CITY GETAWAY GEORGIA RACING HALL OF FAME

415 HWY 53 EAST, DAWSONVILLE, GA 30534 706.216.7223 • GEORGIARACINGHOF.COM Ever vigilant. That is how Backroads works on occasion. We had spent the last week riding around the deep south, and there are certain places that we return to again and again. The town of Toccoa, in the state of Georgia, is one. No one can beat Miss Shirley’s Sole Food. We rode away, on our way to our friend Jim’s home (Oh…. Jim’s an exNavy fighter pilot… semi-god to us. Navy pilots have such attitudes!). We love aircraft…. But we love racing as much. Not that either Shira or I have ever been called racers, but as a matter of Backroads history - Shira worked for many years with Chris Economaki and his daughter Corinne at National Speed Sport News; the weekly BIBLE for American racing fans. In fact, the first four issues of Backroads were created in National Speed Sport News’ office… at 1 am. They were very cordial and kind to us and we have always been grateful to the Economaki family for this. With this semi-pedigree, it was not surprising that Shira spied a NASCAR in front of an attractive building along Route 53 as we motored through the Peach Tree state. It was down below the roadway; if you blinked you’d have missed it. We vectored down the side road to the parking lot. Oh, my. What is this? Hmm?

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind And, as we spun down into the wide parking lot, we knew this was a serious place of racing and history. Welcome to the Georgia Racing Hall of Fame. If you are a lover of NASCAR, this museum is incredible. From beginning to end it is full of Georgia’s racing legacy. If there was a museum dedicated to one family of racing, it would be here. The Elliot Family, Dawsonville natives, had brought racing home to share with everybody. So, there we were, discovering something new. Wow… this is the joint. The funny thing is whenever you think you will just run through any museum fast, you are wrong. If it is interesting think an hour at least; a place like the Georgia Racing Hall of Fame…you will be there for a bit more, as this museum was full of serious fun and seriously informative tour. Dawsonville itself has a colorful history. The town was founded in 1857 as the newly formed Dawson County, incorporated as a town in 1859, and as a city in 1952 and named for state senator William Crosby Dawson. Even though Dawson was born and died in Greensboro, GA, the county and city were named in his honor for distin-


BACKROADS • MARCH 2022 guished service as a soldier, lawyer, judge, and politician. When the museum and Hall of Fame were first opened, they had a mission in mind to bring local and regional heritage to visitors on an easy selfguided tour. They certainly succeeded. You begin in the long alleyway taking in six antique cars starting from the early 1930s, taking you through history and into modern-day racing. As you maneuver the landscape you will see seven Georgia native NASCAR champions displays including NASCAR Champion Chase Elliott, whose exhibit will bring you into modern-day racing. That is just the beginning. Yes this is a serious NASCAR museum, but it also pays homage to this racing’s real history as the Hall of Fame also has something very special. Just past the ticket counter and souvenir center (you’all gotta have that!) on your right, you will find the Dawsonville Moonshine Distillery. Yes, they have a distillery. NASCAR got its start from moonshine runners back in the day. The story goes that famed racer Junior Johnson was a former bootlegger. Johnson was just 14 when he began running his father’s moonshine — before even he had his license: “I didn’t need one, ‘cuz I wasn’t gonna stop!” Tight! In front of the distillery in the alleyway, you will see a 1935 Ford-powered Sprint car, driven by Speedy Morelock. This car is powered by a Flathead V8 and was considered a moonshine runner but also ran dirt tracks, ½ mile to 1 mile in length in the ‘30s and 40’s. this car is on loan from the family of Don Morris. So it seems no secret that Dawsonville is consid-

Page 13 ered the birthplace of stock car racing, as well as advancing good business despite the government. Along through the Hall of Fame, you will take in the Heritage Room and the Elliot Family Room. For myself, I sat in front of the Dyno Room for a good bit of time. Wow! As wonderful as the entire Hall of Fame is, it is the actual Hall that shines, maybe with moons, although that is where it all began. Here you will see the deep historic backgrounds of some of racing’s best. From moonshine to NASCAR, Sprint cars, late models and so much more. Walking through the rotunda, we learned something new where ever we looked. Take one look at Bill Elliot’s wrecked #94 car from the 1998 Talladega crash when Bill and Dale Earnhardt caught up. It was an amazing wreck and well worth searching for the video. Our short visit turned out to be a bit longer but was worth every minute. When traveling in the northeast parts of Georgia seek out the Georgia Racing Hall of Fame and race back to the roots of America’s real racing past. ,


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WE’RE OUTTA HERE THE HISTORIC SUMMIT INN

101 SKYLINE DRIVE, FARMINGTON, PA 15437 724-438-8594 • www.summitinnresort.com As our Spring Break Time of Your Life Tour headed back north, we had a great night up on Route 40 – called the National Pike – in Farmington, Pennsylvania at the splendid Historic Summit Inn. Pennsylvania Fun Fact • Why is it called the Keystone State? Well, a “keystone” is a central, wedge-shaped stone that holds all the other stones of a structure in place to form an arch. In early America, Pennsylvania played a vital geographic and strategic role in holding together the states of the newly formed Union. The history of The Summit Inn really begins in 1806 when Albert Gallatin, the Secretary of the Treasury under President Thomas Jefferson, suggested a National Road “to connect the East with the West”. Albert Gallatin lived only twenty miles from the present-day Summit Inn. Construction on the National Road began in 1813 and was made public in 1818. It remained one of the largest internal improvements made by the Federal Government until the Civil War and was the principal way west for at least 50 years. The road was justly renowned for the great number and excellence of its inns, and taverns. As the road wound through the Laurel Mountains nearly every mile had its own tavern. Atop the Summit Mountain of Chestnut Ridge was one such tavern. It was known as the Fayette Springs Hotel and sat across the road from the existing Summit Inn. In the second half of the 19th century, both the Na-

a weekend destinationkeeping you on the backroads tional Road and the Fayette Springs Hotel fell into disrepair. In the early 1900s, the State of Pennsylvania took over the road and the improvements made the idea of a hotel inviting once more. It was with this in mind that some of Uniontown’s wealthiest men got together and formed the Summit Hotel Company. (It may be hard to believe now, but due to the coal industry, in the early 1900s Uniontown boasted one of the highest rates of millionaires per capita in all the world). Their goal was to build a mountain resort of “exceptional quality and durability”. They succeeded with the Summit Hotel. The Summit Hotel was first opened to the public in 1907. Due to its excellent facilities, its location on Chestnut Ridge, and the beautiful views, the resort was an immediate success. Pennsylvania Fun Fact The State Bird is the Ruffed Grouse Settlers relied on this plump, red-brown bird with feathery legs as part of their food supply. Sometimes called a partridge, the Ruffed Grouse is still a familiar sight in Pennsylvania’s forests. As times changed and the coal industry faded from the region the hotel fell on harder times and was rescued by the Shoemaker family who were originally brought in to get the hotel back in shape. For decades now this family has kept the Summit Inn as one of the premier escapes in the region. Today the inn features 94 unique guest rooms, indoor and outdoor pools, a full-service restaurant and lounge, and a 9-hole par 36 golf course built in the 1920s. They say location is everything and the builders of the Historic Summit Inn knew this as they placed their masterpiece on 1,200 magnificent acres


BACKROADS • MARCH 2022 along the historic National Road in the heart of the Laurel Highlands of the Keystone State. The Summit Inn is one of the last remaining grand porch hotels in America and we put it to good use that beautiful spring afternoon in May. With several levels, comfortable chairs, superb views, and adult beverages it did not get better than this – especially watching motorcycle after motorcycle pulling into the large parking area after the long day’s ride from the mountains of Virginia. Their dining room was filled with happy Backroads faces and, after a delicious dinner, many reconvened to the bar area for a night cap. Both dining room and bar were comfortable and handled our crowd with a smile. The next morning breakfast could be had either indoors or al fresco. But, best of all, the Summit has a tree house getaway, that you can rent for private little parties or to disappear from the rest of the group. We especially loved this – even if it was a tiny trek from the inn.

Page 15 Pennsylvania Fun Fact The State Beverage is Milk This designation is a fitting tribute to one of the Commonwealth’s leading farm products. It also salutes the state’s gentle dairy cows who each produce a generous 22 quarts of milk a day. The Laurel Highland region of Pennsylvania has a lot to seek out and explore. Just down the road is Fort Necessity - the confrontation at Fort Necessity in the summer of 1754 was the prelude to the war fought by England and France for control of the North American continent. ... The action at Fort Necessity was also the first major event in the military career of George Washington. It was the only time he ever surrendered to an enemy. The recreated fort and especially the Visitor’s Center, with its incredible effects, is worth the short ride from the inn. ,


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Morton’s BMW Motorcycles presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s

MYSTERIOUS AMERICA

In Search of Big Red Eye • Part Deux Last month I told you about the history of the native legend of the Meesing and the northern New Jersey sightings of the creature called Big Red Eye. But could this be a real creature? For sure some parts of this state are virtually void of humans… But really? You can call it New Jersey’s version of Bigfoot — that gigantic furry, perpetually out of focus what-cha-ma-call-it sited 24/7 on the Internet, but never quite captured in a clear image. Advocates for its existence believe that it is a relict population of Gigantopithecus, a confirmed species of extinct hominid that is known to have grown to the dimensions generally given for the Sasquatch. Coincidentally Backroads Central is found dead center of these alleged sightings (of course, it is). I talked with publishers Rathjen and Kamil about Big Red Eye.

Both confirmed to me that over the last quarter-century of living next to the Bear Swamp that there have been many evenings when loud and somewhat concerning noises have drifted up from the forest that surrounds BC. At times things have been found in the woods, after disappearing from the property. Big things that could never be lifted by a raccoon or even a bear. Shira has twice seen cougar – two huge cats with a longtails; both tawny and low to the ground. Rathjen has also spotted cougars – but usually at Shoprite or the watering holes on Spring Street. He is an unreliable witness. Still, no definitive sightings of anything Big Red Eye-ish. I needed to search this out for myself, so while visiting the office, I borrowed some of Brian’s bikes to go in search of Big Red Eye.

My first destination I could have walked to The Bear Swamp. Taking up over 2,000 acres, the Bear Swamp can be found on the eastern edge of the Kittatinny Range all the way to Route 206 near Culvers Gap. Running north along 206 the big ridge called Kittatinny fills your vision to the left and turning left and down Struble Road, a tiny gap road that runs towards the Walpack Valley, brought me to one of the most pristine places in New Jersey, Tillman’s Ravine. This is how this land has looked for thousands of years. There are trails you can follow that will lead you to several small falls and an old cemetery from the 1800s. It was in this region that forest ranger Tom Card had his encounter. Card said: “I’ve spent my whole life in the woods and I’ve never heard anything like it. When I first heard it, I thought it was a siren in the distance but then I heard it again. I saw two guys running down the road. I was like, ‘This isn’t good.’” During a 2-week span in 1977, an area in Sussex County experienced frightening sounds that began


BACKROADS • MARCH 2022 around 2:00 am and lasted until about daybreak. Also, there were a rash of occurrences in which pet rabbits were inexplicably killed. Police blamed bears for the attacks, but the local newspaper pushed a “monster on the loose” narrative. Maybe the newspaper was right; perhaps Big Red Eye is still on the prowl. But, here on this beautiful Fall day, I didn’t see much… yet. My prowl of the valley had become more of a nice sport bike day, as Big Red Eye or not, the Kittatinny and the valley offer superb riding. I vectored over to Pennsylvania, across Dingman’s Bridge, and then south for a few miles on Route 209, making a stop at the Pocono Indian Museum, to check on their Meesing display. Maria, the woman at the museum and a rider herself, kindly let me in to take in the display. The creature the Lenape called the Meesing and the resemblance to what New Jersians call Big Red Eye is hard to deny.

Page 17 I honestly left the museums with more questions than answers. Back over into New Jersey I looped around Walpack and then rode up and over the ridge – ever vigilant for anything huge, hairy, and slightly out of focus. I stopped at the Garriss General Store, in Stillwater, for coffee and ice cream and spoke with some old fellas about the legend. “Oh, don’t be so hasty to ignore this,” said one nonagenarian, “I remember those days and that thing was as real as you and me.” His friends all nodded in agreement. Is there a legendary beast still lurking in this part of the Skylands of New Jersey? Of that, I cannot be sure, but I am sure that this route will bring you in and around Big Red Eye’s stomping grounds, with the bonus of starting and stopping at the Elias Cole for a meal or just some awesome pie and coffee. Maybe you will be luckier than me… or maybe that is unlucky, as you follow along through Mysterious America. O’Life Out! ,

100-mile loop through Big Red Eye country - good luck!

www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/z2rvyl

DON’T MISS THE 2022 BACKROADS’ RALLIES • SPRING, SUMMER AND FALL • INFO IN THIS ISSUE


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WINTER TREATS Usually, before I shut my eyes at night, I take a peek at what’s happening in the world; current events, weather and such. But before I hit the home button and recharge, I see what the Good News Network has to offer. This will leave my brain in a happy place and, hopefully, fill my dreams with pleasant images. The other night I found this story and then, right before Jeopardy! the following night, David Muir on ABC World News had it featured on his ‘Persons of the Week.’ And now I bring it to you, because everyone should have more good news in their lives. There is a very special ice cream shop which opened in December 2015 in Dallas, TX. Tom Landis, having over 20 years in the restaurant industry, had a vision to see and realize the potential of everyone. To this end, he sought to provide job opportunities for people who have been marginalized because of society’s misunderstanding of their abilities. Howdy Homemade Ice Cream employs mostly people with special needs, from servers to cashiers to managers. Landis felt moved to serve the special-needs community in part because of his ailing mother but also from inspiration from a former football coach and calling from God. Former Alabama coach Gene Stallings, who had a son with Down syndrome and became an advocate for those with special needs, so influenced Landis that he felt the want and need to help this community. The name Howdy Homemade is, according to their website, ‘a tribute to Gene Stallings, Bear Bryant and every underdog out there.’ “When you have someone with special needs, it takes a little bit longer to train them, but when you train them up, they’re fired up, and they put smiles on customers’ faces,” Landis said. “There are days I walk into the restaurant and the employees are in better moods and are happier to be there than me. They’re prouder of Howdy than I am.” The original location in Dallas had its problems during the pandemic but thanks to generous supporters, it came out a winner, acquiring a truck to do mobile sales safely. Landis sold his Texadelphia, TX, restaurants and went ‘all in.’ After five years in business, he was extremely proud of his zeroemployee turnover as well as knowing his employees with Down syndrome and autism have a place in the economy.


BACKROADS • MARCH 2022 A fine example is Coleman Jones, who has Down syndrome. Right before Howdy opened in 2015, Jones met Landis at a football banquet where he was a senior at the time. He and Landis spoke of possible hiring opportunities and, the next day, Jones followed up. He started as a bus boy at one of Landis’ restaurants and is now vice president of Howdy Homemade. Building on the aspect of celebrating the community’s unique powers and that the restaurant industry is about people first, then food, Howdy’s has been able to open other locations, including Asheville, NC. While I have not had the chance to taste their fine product, with flavors such as Dr. Pepper Chocolate Chip, Hot Tamale, Huckleberry and Avocado, I can only imagine that they would be delicious and, taking it to another level is having this wonderful ice cream served with a smile by a truly special hero.

Eating the World’s Smartest Ice Cream Another site that always catches my eye is Gastro Obscura. Dr. O’Life is a huge fan of their parent site, Atlas Obscura, and has visited many of the places featured there. Being a foodie, I find many of the offerings on Gastro Obscura quite fascinating, even disturbing at times. This one particular story, however, was right up my ice cream alley.

Every December 10 there is a gathering of the smartest people in the world – groundbreaking scientists, artists, peacemakers and others who have contributed game-changing advances to the human race. Alfred Nobel, inventor of dynamite, deeply regretted the wartime usage of his invention so, before his death in 1896, he dedicated the majority of his fortune to funding those who made tremendous advances for the human race – the Nobel Prizes.

One constant during the grandest dinner party on earth is the presence of fireworks and a special dessert. The first banquet held in 1901 was capped with sparklers and the signature dessert – Nobel Ice Cream. This became the high point during the glace Nobel’s unbroken run from 1976 to 1998. One guest, Cornell physicist David Mermin, attended a banquet in the twilight of the Nobel Ice Cream era. He describes the famous “Ice Cream Parade” thusly: “The descent of the third course (Glace Nobel) left

Page 19 me gaping in astonishment. It began, quietly enough, with a dimming of the lights. Then two great canopies fluttered down out of nowhere and managed to form a kind of roof within the roof over the great staircase which was suddenly engulfed in a cascade of waist-deep white cloud … there appeared at the top of the still-smoking stairs 150 waiters bearing massive glowing trays of ice cream for the revellers below. Waiters descended, singers ascended, spoons clinked, plates clattered, and a woman’s voice whispered in my ear, “You’re the last one, would you like everything left on my tray?” “Yes,” I gasped gratefully, and soothed my aching throat with a triple portion of panache de sorbet aux mûres sauvages des champs et de parfait à la vanilla.” No matter the level of accomplishment, genius or haughtiness, every attendee, over the years, regards the ice cream parade with almost childlike wonder. And, though ice cream came off the menu in 1999 to allow the chefs to expand beyond traditional desserts, it has not been lost to history. At the Nobel Museum’s bistro the ice cream appears as a tiny molded bombe – perhaps a tongue-in-cheek jab at the expense of Nobel and his dynamite. Should you want to attempt the construction of the Glace Nobel, you can find the recipe on the Gastro Obscura site: www.atlasobscura.com/articles/make-nobel-ice-cream. Treat yourself like the smarty pants you are and indulge in this special dessert. Remember, whether sweaty or sweater weather, there is always room for ice cream. ,


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Text and Images: Michael ONeill

“Live your best possible life today. Every day is a gift and people should strive to make the most of each and every one they’re blessed with.” In April of 2021 I headed out on the road for what would ultimately become a 3,000-mile adventure through 12 states in the eastern US. Through the modern-day broadcast networks of social media platforms the editor of this fine magazine got wind of my travels and approached me to pen a feature about the trip for the Backroads readership. I had no idea where that literary road would lead but eagerly set out upon it. (Funny…that’s much the same attitude I adopt when I climb in the saddle of my BMW sport touring motorcycle). I am honored and thrilled to present to you “Road Work: Images and Insights of a Modern Day Explorer”. As I sat at the keyboard hammering out the text, it became immediately apparent that the pursuit of long-distance motorcycle travel can be an accurate and powerful metaphor for life itself. In his book “Far and Near” the late Neil Peart, drummer for the legendary Canadian rock band Rush and an adventure motorcyclist of the highest order, said “How do we know what we think until we see what we write?” The more I wrote the more I noticed that my lifelong career as a professional photographer and my pursuit of motorcycle travel were closely aligned. Not only did they share the same approximate chronological timeline, but the levels of growth and success in each were remarkably intertwined. Thus the format for the book almost magically revealed itself; much like traveling down an unplanned route which leads to the most rewarding locations and experiences. Each of the chapters of the book revolve around various stretches of road that I have traversed; and each draws a parallel to a life lesson learned or some social commentary on issues that affect

BACKROADS • MARCH 2022

everyone today…whether they travel on two wheels or not. After five chapters were completed, framed by that April 2021 journey, so much more still remained to be said. The next ten chapters continued in the same journalistic format using some other 2021 travels, and flashbacks to road trips of days gone by, to complete the literary endeavor. These included three separate road trips to The Amish Country in Pennsylvania (along with the adventure of hot air balloon flight added to one of them), trips to The Catskill Mountains and Adirondack Mountains of Upstate New York; and a recount of one of my favorite Canadian destinations: The Cabot Trail in The Cape Breton Highlands of Nova Scotia; a place so special that I’ve visited multiple times. I’d like to give you just a little taste of what’s in store for you, the reader, with some random quotes from the book.


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On The Subjects Of Luck And Serendipity: “Rewarding travel on two wheels requires technical expertise, proper preparation, rapid decision making, persistence and flexibility. It may take years to develop the required skill sets and the focused state of mind but the rewards for participating proficiently are enormous. As with most great achievements in life, luck has very little to do with it.”

On The Subject Of Passion: “Passion comes with time, experience, trials, errors, practice, faith and ever-increasing levels of growth, performance and enjoyment. It is not something that strikes you like a thunderbolt but is rather like the perfect storm that gains strength gradually due to the right combination of underlying fundamental elements. When talking about passion there can be no final destination or crowning achievement on the horizon. The journey itself is the real reward.”

On The Subject Of The People You Meet: “The people I’ve met on this trip through rural America are so different from those you meet traveling through more densely-populated areas. A genuine warmth and concern for others exists. I will forever remember these folks for the exemplary kind and gentle manner in which they treat people…even complete strangers.” On The Subject Of Helping Others: “There is no greater feeling in the world than knowing that you’ve had a truly positive impact on the lives of others.” These final two quotes from the book (Helping Others and Comfort Zone) really sum up my purpose and ambition in writing it. I want the


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BACKROADS • MARCH 2022

people who read it, whether they are two-wheelers or not, to take away some valuable life lessons that I have learned, and live better lives themselves because of the reading experience. I hope you all enjoy reading the book as much as I enjoyed writing it and sharing it with you; and hope that it serves as inspiration to set out on more challenging and rewarding adventures of your own. Ride safe, my friends! ,

“Road Work: Images and Insights of a Modern Day Explorer” is available in paperback and Kindle versions on Amazon as well as on Apple Books. You can also link to it directly via my website at:

www.michaeloneillfineart.com where you will find an extensive collection of photographs compiled during my two-wheeled travels.


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PRODUCT REVIEW

SCHUBERTH C4 PRO WOMEN HELMET • AN UPDATE TO THE ONLY WOMEN’S-SPECIFIC MODULAR HELMET Pamela Collins Women motorcyclists lamented for years about gear and clothing that didn’t work right. Like the younger child dressed in big brother’s handme-downs, female-oriented gear often felt like men’s miniaturized products stitched with a dash of obligatory pink and then marketed as being “woman-specific.” However, over the last two decades, the surge of women riders necessitated manufacturers take notice and better serve the fastest-growing segment of the riding marketplace. These days, women’s gear now fits and looks better, truly earning the “woman-specific” labeling it wears. Motorcycle helmets, though, have traditionally escaped the need for gender-specific labeling, outside of manufacturers offering small-enough sizes. Sometimes the helmets had pink decals, or flowery “pretty” graphics,

but no company saw the need to make a helmet specifically and especially for women. Except for Schuberth Helmets. Just over ten years ago the German manufacturer released a woman-specific C3 helmet, featuring a different, narrower fit from its standard C3 offering, with adjustable padding and a different colored lining, the better to fit and function for the female face. Last year Schuberth released a new iteration of its woman-specific helmet. The C4 Pro Women’s lid, a full-faced flip-up model, uses the latest improved technology Schuberth incorporated into its most recent nongender C4 Pro helmet, but added details it considers make the helmet more female-friendly. I have used the older C3 women’s helmet for quite a while, finding it quiet and comfortable. Now, after using the C4 Pro Women’s version, I like it even better than the C3 for women and can pronounce it a definite improvement. First, this newest version does feature all the latest Schuberth technology of the non-gender C4 Pro, which includes a multitude of features. Schuberth improved the lining, now using an antibacterial and anti-allergen removable and washable lining that has no seams, which means no pressure points to cause headaches a few hours into the ride. The lining does have grooves to make wearing glasses more comfortable and ventilation channels that help regulate and draw air through and out of the helmet’s interior. Schuberth changed the shape of the neckband, making it thicker and wider than on previous models to better deaden sound, and worked to reduce the pesky noise that seeps in through other areas such as the points


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where the helmet opens. Opening the helmet only requires the upward push of one finger on the ergonomic button underneath the front of the helmet. The visor is bigger and wider for a better field of vision and distortion-free. The C4 Pro comes standard with a Pinlock® anti-fog lens pre-installed and features the drop-down, integrated sun visor Schuberth originated in the helmet industry. The helmet also features a special push-to-open vent in the front to provide visor ventilation and an adjustable vent positioned on the helmet’s top to regulate airflow amount inside the

BACKROADS • MARCH 2022 helmet. It uses a micro-lock ratchet chin strap to secure the helmet. Schuberth maintained its focus on safety, using its proprietary Schuberth Direct Fibre Processing that combines glass fiber with a special resin and compresses it at high pressure in a vacuum, which Schuberth says forms an exceptionally sturdy but light helmet shell. The company uses a specially optimized and segmented EPS foam liner for increased shock absorption to better protect the head in case of a crash and uses the company’s antiroll-off protection system to keep the helmet secure to the head in case of a wreck. The helmet has reflective elements to increase visibility in low-light or nighttime riding. Schuberth says the aerodynamic shape of the helmet provides greater high-speed stability without buffering. The first thing I noticed about the C4 Pro Woman, compared with my C3 (both size small), was its smaller size. The C3 looked rounder, bigger, and bulkier whereas the C4 Pro looked streamlined and sleek, overall just sportier. The helmet is narrower front to back. However, I discovered the biggest difference when I put it on because the C4 felt lighter and tighter, better fitting. Schuberth claims the weight of my size helmet at about 3.7 lbs. Whereas the C3 liner has a smooth texture, the C4 Pro’s uses a velvety, material that feels soft and downright cozy on my cheeks but also keeps the helmet’s interior cool. Through several thousand miles of riding, I never felt hot spots or squeezed areas inside the helmet, just comfort. I also appreciate the greater field of vision and especially the increased noise reduction of the new model. Where I never complained


BACKROADS • MARCH 2022 about the noise I heard with the C3 because I thought it quiet, the C4 still one-ups it. Both the visor and the chinbar move up and down easily as does the sun visor with its easy-to-slide tab on the helmet’s left lower side. A rider can also tailor the sun visor deployment depth to one of two settings and I find it offers great coverage. For those who want communication systems, the C4 Pro’s come already outfitted to accept Schuberth’s optional Plug and Play version. Each helmet is built with internal speakers and a small, unobtrusive microphone to the left side of the mouth area. Just plug the battery and communication module into their respective ports on the helmet and consider the communication system installed…no wiring necessary. The big difference between the C4 Pro and C4 Pro Women? There are two main ones. First is the fit. Schuberth says women have narrower faces so the Women’s version features extra cushioning in the cheek area to improve comfort and safety while further reducing noise. Secondly, instead of the gray interior in the men’s version, the woman’s version has a ruby red liner. I assume it’s to better hide stains from make-up that can rub off and it is prettier. Whether that makes it more for women is a personal opinion. It doesn’t bother me and I can attest that this helmet does fit better than any other I have used. The C4 Pro Woman comes in 2 solid colors and 1 graphic in 4 color combinations and either gloss or matte finishes, and I want to give kudos here to Schuberth. Nowhere on the helmet exterior does it say “women” and there is no pink option in sight. Only the padded, removable wind deflector inside the chin bar says “women.” Thanks, Schuberth, for the equal treatment. The woman’s version of the helmet costs about $30 more than the man’s comparable helmet. The C4 Pro Woman in matte black or gloss white retails for about $729 while the Magnitudo graphic versions (including a high-viz yellow) retail for $829. I own the yellow version and appreciate the extra visibility to other drivers it gives. As with any helmet, the fit is personal, so whether the C4 Pro Woman is the ideal helmet is subjective. However, women riders looking for a sleeker, lighter, quieter helmet or to upgrade from an older one should consider this latest offering from Schuberth. For more information visit the Schuberth website at www.schuberth.com.

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

SRC PROTECTION GUARDS FOR BMW R 1250 GS Protective insurance for the delicate parts of the tough ADV machines Everybody and everything has a soft spot. An Achilles Heel. A part of the machine that, if damaged or disabled, will bring the day’s riding adventure to a cold and fast stop. Almost all motorcycles these days have ABS, kickstand sensors, and other parts that are, many times, left out unprotected and just asking to get wacked! (Sorry, the New Jersey slipped out there…) On the BMW R 1250 GS these are especially vulnerable – especially if you are riding far off the pavement and along a tougher trail. If a Gravity Storm occurs or a log, rock, or other hazard clips one of these, it will be one of those days you will talk about years from now – with great exaggeration.

A little investment in some protection on these parts can help avoid this issue. While SRC has guards like these for many different machines, I was concerned with the sensors on my R 1250 GS, particularly the two ABS sensors located on the front and rear hubs respectively. Although the rear is a


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Page 26 bit tucked away, the sensor on the front wheel hub is a bit vulnerable to a hit. The side stand sensor is open to be easily damaged as well. I ordered both SRC Guards for these two sensors and then, as it was right on the same page, I added a guard for the rear master cylinder too.

are available and all at reasonable prices as well. The ABS Sensor Guard was $30, the Kickstand Sensor Guard was $45, and the Brake Cylinder Guard $38. For a little over a C- Note my GS is now a lot more protected against the universe’s foolishness. Take a look at their website srcmoto.com to see what they might have for you. ,

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

All of these are laser-cut with great precision from 2mm stainless steel. Installation for all three took less than 5 minutes using the stock fasteners and, in addition to looking very slick, these guards from SRC Moto pretty much eliminate any chance of damage and failure due to rocks, road debris, or tip over impacts. SRC Moto has dozens of products for many different adventure machines – Honda, Ducati Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki, Triumph, Royal Enfield, and probably more if needed. Electrical, luggage and other products

SBV TOOL KITS

Bottom line up front, if any are hesitant about purchasing SBV Tools, don’t be. The quality, functionality, multiple application of these kits is amazing. I’ve been using a DIY kit I assembled mostly from a local “Freight” store and big box hardware suppliers and I became overly frustrated having to replace broken bits, pieces, and parts over the years when working on my bike. This problem is no longer. In my quest for the most versatile, reliable, and complete kit while keeping the size and weight down, I discovered SBV. I evaluated and compared SBV to Motohansa, Cruz Tools, Stockton, Bike Master, and Motion Pro. For the BMW R1250GS (or any BMW and many Japanese machines for that matter), SBV earned my vote by a wide margin! They do make kits for many other bikes with specific applications to fit your needs. The closest competitor I found in comparison is the Motohansa kit, but what stood out for me was the integration, expandability and overall function of the SBV kit, making it in my opinion, a better overall value. And with a lifetime warranty, I felt confident in my purchase. I opted to add the digital torque tool (#52295 for $99) as well which requires no “special” proprietary ratchet and covers a range from 4Nm to 203Nm and comes in a nice, compact protective case. It even includes an adapter making it compatible with any 1/4” or 3/8” drive breaker bar or ratchet to use it. It seems to be very accurate with far more range of torque, better than my garage-kept tool that has the clicker indicator and cannot handle the lower torque specs. The SBV BMW kit (#52502) includes two pieces, again making it highly versatile depending on user’s desire, riding needs, and weight considerations. Although some references reflect the weight at well over 6 lbs., that’s not what I found. When placing both pieces, loaded as received, on the scales in their respective pouches, it was a mere 5.4 lbs. total. That saved me 2.5 lbs. less than my makeshift DIY kit. Additionally, the dimensions were equally impressive at 10.5” long and rolled down to 5” diameter (again, this included both pieces). SBV also included metal snaps to affix them if opting to carry them together with a robust 1.5” wide Velcro strap to cinch it tight. There is some space within should you want to add to it. SBV recently partnered with BeemerShop, Inc. in Scotts Valley, CA as the first U.S. distributor. This family-owned business is also another with whom I’ll be doing future business; highly responsive, great customer service! Thank you Ted Porter. ,

sbvtools.com • www.beemershop.com ~ Cary Dixon


BACKROADS • MARCH 2022

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TAKING it to the

TRACK

Ride to Learn, Learn to Ride (Better)

There are some things and events that are covered each year in these pages. For the last decade and then some we have annually told you about CLASS - the high-performance riding school run by Reg and Gigi Pridmore. Reginald Charles Pridmore III is an Englishman, an amazing riding mentor as well as a road racing national champion. He is remembered for winning the inaugural AMA Superbike Championship in 1976, followed by 1977 and 1978. The Hat Trick! For the last few decades, he has been teaching riders, of all shapes, styles, and genders, how to be more proficient on two wheels. Yes, the two-day school is held on a race track – Virginia International Raceway in our case – but, do not think this is a race school or even a track day. It is about going smoothly, learning the limits of both your bike and yourself, and gradually, with the help of Reg and his bevy of excellent instructors, you will learn and get better and better with each 20-minute session. Over the years more and more Backroads readers have joined us down on the border of Virginia and North Carolina and this time around we had about two dozen riders come down to get some CLASS in their act. But, we are a travel and touring motorcycle magazine, right? So we’ll give you a short version of our ride down.

Backroads Central to Front Royal, Virginia We had the time so we figured on making it a three-day ride, making Bath County in Virginia a particular overnight. We had 325 miles to cover this day; a day that seemed to be suffering from “dissociative identity disorder;” sunny for 20 miles and then pouring for the next and in between… some sort of thick Scottish mist. Truly a fickle day of riding.

Still, we ran along some familiar roads that we always try to tag when in the region; Moselem Spring, Irish Creek, and the like. The Fork in the Road in Centerport always makes us smile. By late afternoon we crossed the Potomac River at Point of Rocks and then scooted tiny and hilly backroads south, making sure, just ‘cause it’s there, to pass the Not-So-Secret facility and Federal Get-Away at Mount Weather. FEMA my butt. Riiiight. The evening saw us rolling into Front Royal – the perfect town to launch south and deeper into Old Dominion. Chain hotel, fast road food, and a walk around town capped off the day.

Front Royal to Hot Springs, Virginia We had a relatively easy day mileage-wise – just under 200 miles. But… it is not the number of miles as how much fun you have riding them! Earlier in the season, we had our Spring Break that did a two-night stint not too far south of our day’s destination, and picking pieces of our route south in May we came up with a true winner of a day. Although the famed Skyline Drive starts right in Front Royal, I am hardpressed to pay to use this road when the valley below offers a far more interesting and enjoyable ride for free. Along the way to our little gem called Fort Valley Road, we passed the local airport with an F-86H Sabre jet parked on the grass. The somewhat wet and soft grass.

I rode onto the turf to get a couple of images and specifically told the bike not to fall over on its side. I snapped a few, check the images, and went to shoot a few more, and… Well jets fly with speed and lift to keep them up. Motorcycles need side stands and “solid” ground for them to stay up. The Z was on its side, stand sunk into the soft grass. Frack! Luckily the soft SHAD waterproof bags kept it safe from any scratches, dents, or dings… We picked her up and got back on the road. The solid and paved road. Fort Valley Road lies between the two arms of the northern part of the Blue Ridge mountain range in the Shenandoah Valley in what is called a Ridge-and-Valley Appalachian geological zone. We just call it the best way to travel south in these parts. We continued south on Camp Roosevelt, which put us out on the big east/west road Route 340 – right at Cooters, a Dukes of Hazzard Museum complete with an original General Lee – which looked sweet next to the orange Kawasaki Z900.


BACKROADS • MARCH 2022

Page 28 Heading west we rode through New Market, the scene of the infamous Civil War battle. The Battle of New Market was fought on May 15, 1864, in Virginia during the Valley Campaigns of 1864 in the American Civil War. A makeshift Confederate army of 4,100 men defeated the larger Army of the Shenandoah under Major General Franz Sigel, delaying the capture of Staunton by several weeks. The Confederate victory allowed the local crops to be harvested for Robert E. Lee’s Army of Northern Virginia and protected Lee’s lines of communications to western Virginia. The battle is primarily remembered today for being the only time in American history a school’s student body was used as an organized combat unit. So much blood spilled, including ten cadets from the Virginia Military Academy. As much as I enjoy seeking out and writing about our Revolutionary War, I find the Civil War hitting much closer; with a solid punch in the gut each time I visit a place like this. North versus south. Family versus family. Brother versus brother. It is so hard to understand this in any way. Continuing on we found a lunch stop in Broadway, Virginia (yes, that is the town’s name) right across from a wonderful giant sculpture of a Vespa scooter, created by artist William Synder III who came out of his home when he saw me snapping away with my Nikon. Very, very cool and very unexpected. Broadway is also the Turkey capital of Old Dominion and while eating we kept seeing truckloads of turkeys heading off to… Well, you know. From Broadway, we cut into some of our routes from the Spring Break with a few new roads added in for fun. By the time we were done riding along with Bull and Cow Pasture Roads we had about 60 miles of incredible sweepers, hills, and mostly superior road views. Then the closed-in section, with the Cow Pasture River to the left and the rock walls to right, gave the ride a most magical feel.

Along the way, I spied a Box Turtle slowly making its way across the pavement in the oncoming lane. As is our way, we pulled to the side and I made a quick U-turn to help the little fella all the way across safely. He’d have been crushed for sure. Ahh, mitzvah for the day! The final charge into Hot Springs, along Mountain Valley Road/Route 39, was the icing on the cake.

Our home for the night was an historic B & B originally built-in 1900. The Vine Cottage Inn has been catering to travelers since 1905 and the owners Tammy and Dave Hahn, along with son Tim, have the most comfortable and rider-friendly place in the region. In fact, they are one of the few inns we have come across that have a “Riders Welcome” sign hanging below the Inn’s. Located right on Route 220 the Vine Cottage is well worth an overnight or more and the bonus for Shira was that they have their own ice cream parlor open on the weekend. Talk about a win/win situation.

Hot Spring to Virginia International Raceway Breakfast at the Vine Cottage Inn was scrumptious and taken on the porch, as the sun cleared the morning mist and the hummingbirds came to dine as well. We had a Plan A, but the night before discovered a few sweet looking roads that begged to be ridden – so, once again, we went with Plan B. Plan B must be for Backroads. State Road 606, called McGraw Gap Road, was a twistalicious piece of asphalt – well paved and a marked two-lanes, it narrowed to one and a half with no marking and less than well-maintained on the descent.


BACKROADS • MARCH 2022 Several hairpins heading down made it a bit more interesting and then we saw the woman running towards us from ¼ mile away, signaling for us to stop; which we did and then spied over a dozen hunting dogs galloping along our right side and out of the deep forest. They all hopped into three pick-up trucks and, when we asked what was up, one of the young guys said, “Bahr!” Bahr… like a drinking establishment, the lawyer association, or maybe the late, great Jeff ? “No, we’re hunting Bahr!” Oh,… bear. Gotcha. Well, happy hunting boys and girls. We carried on. We made a decently long stop in Bedford to take in the D-Day Memorial. This is a simply stunning tribute to June, 6th 1944, and Overlord - the invasion of France by the Allied soldiers. Having visited the beaches of Normandy several years ago, it made this visit all the more poignant.

We would need many words to tell you how stunning and well done this is – but it truly deserves its own place here in Backroads. Like the previous day, this day’s route sought out the tiniest and most interesting roads we could find. Of course, we found a gravel road and then came across another ‘bridge closed’ sign. This time it was closed and there was no way through, only around on a detour of our own making.

Page 29 Back on track, we headed due south and into North Carolina, where we then headed east and towards the track, rescuing yet another turtle from imminent death along the way. We have always thought it ironic that to get to Virginia International Raceway you usually enter from North Carolina. This has to rankle the Tar Heel State off just a tad, I would think. SCCA was just finishing for the day, but we were still able to grab our Paddock Room and then went to meet our CLASS buddies we see every year. As the day became night we rode over to the track’s restaurant, The Oak Tree Tavern, where more and more of our Backroads alumni were gathering. That night taillights and mirrors were taped, air pressure adjusted and beds were hit, as we had a very early start of CLASS the next morning. Reg Pridmore and CLASS deserve their own article, but I will tell you we had two incredible days on the north track at VIR – the last afternoon session carried out under heavier and heavier rain.


Page 30 All that we learned, re-learned or were reminded of came into play when the track was wet and getting wetter. Smooth is the game here… and we were. Traditionally we have a gathering at our paddock garages for our Backroads group. Over the years we have had more and more join us. Eight, then twelve, and this time some twenty-plus Backroads readers made the trip to VIR and learned, rode, and absorbed CLASS. Good for all of them for making the effort to become better, more confident, and smoother riders. The track’s restaurant was closed and our friends Rick and John, who had towed their bikes down, also brought along two grills and a ton of food. The invitation went out and by evening times you could smell the BBQ doing its thing – chefs John and Rick always on top of it all. Thank you, guys…so much! Several students joined us as well as Reg, Gigi, and all the instructors. It was the best final night at VIR we had ever had!

BACKROADS • MARCH 2022


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VIR to Backroads Central For a long time Shira and I had been known to attract the wet; but, in recent times we have been below our batting average with this – which was fine by us. This day we’d have to ante up and pay the piper, as it were. A strong storm was coming up from the southeast and it would take a few days for the prevailing west to east system to regain control of the eastern seaboard. For us that meant rain; the Three Ds… a deluge, drencher, and strong downpours. Shira, along with our friends Jeff and Steve, made our way across Virginia and over the socked in Blue Ridge to I-81 and then aimed north and pulled the trigger. All was just rainy and wet, but then we rode into the heaviest torrent I can remember in a long time. I was leading but, in truth, was having a great problem seeing what was right ahead of us. I thought just to ‘call it’ and head off the highway and wait it out but I knew this was not going to be going away soon. Then I sighted a large RV, being towed by a tractor-trailer. The RV had super-bright LED lights and I locked on to this vehicle and followed its lead – for about 100 miles. When we crossed into Pennsylvania by mid-afternoon we stopped at the Visitor Center for a much need bathroom and break and by the time we were ready to get going the rain had slowed to a drizzle and then stopped altogether. Steve and Jeff peeled off toward their own homes and Shira and I did the evil I-78 to the Delaware River and then backroads north to home. A hot shower was most welcoming as was Spenser the Cat – who, at this point, simply was miffed that we kept disappearing on him for days at a time. The entire journey – even the rain - was superb. We discovered and re-discovered some stunning roads, met friends old and new, and once again, took life-saving and valuable lessons from Reg and all his instructors. We knew summer was coming to an end – but what a grand way to finish it. 2022 will bring a change to our usual schedule, as CLASS will be coming east earlier in the season. If you’d like to join us for our annual educational trip, mark your calendar and make your reservations for Memorial Day weekend (May 30-31, 2022). What better way to set yourself up for a smooth and fun-filled riding season than to hone your skills to ride into 2022. Get your spot here: classrides.com ,


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And Now for Something Completely Different (Spring Break 2022) Well…maybe not COMPLETELY different

Last summer my wife Elise and I took in our very first Backroads Rally. We attended the weekend Summer Squeeze in West Dover, VT. Now, I will have to admit that we were both just a little trepidacious about attending. After all, this was our first Brian and Shira event and we knew there would be a host of people that had been to scores of Backroads rides in the past. We imagined it would be a little like entering senior year at a new high school. We could not have been more wrong. From the minute our boots hit the front porch at the Grey Ghost Inn, until we pointed our truck towards home at the end of the rally, we felt comfortable and welcomed. It was as if we knew this crowd for many years. And we all spoke the same language…motorcycles. We had two perfect riding days, even with a bit of rain thrown in for good measure. We experienced the Vermont countryside with Inga, a new friend we made at the weekend. We vowed to make a Backroads ride part of our annual itinerary. There was just one thing missing, however. DIRT. Now I don’t mean the gossip variety. I

am talking terra ferma. A riding surface that requires a trip to the car wash when the day is over. I grew up cutting my teeth on dirt bikes (motocross, dual sport and, more recently, adventure bikes). Pavement has mainly been just a means of getting to the next woods section. So, while I loved the curvilicious Vermont byways, I was yearning for a little less traction. Then I saw that the Backroads Spring Break weekend (May 12-15, 2022) was going to be in my backyard, Danville, Pennsylvania. So I decided to approach Brian about maybe offering a dirt-oriented loop. And to my surprise, he said YES. Giving me joy enough to reach down to the toes of my Alpinestars. Thank you, Brian!!! So, if you have a yen to explore farm and forest roads of Northern Pennsylvania, we just might have a cure for what ails you. The loop begins about 10 miles from the Pine Barn Inn and continues north exploring places like World’s End State Park, Loyalsock creek and overlook, and the Forksville Covered Bridge. The terrain will suit a newbie Adventure rider without difficulty and most any tires will work fine though 50% off road and above would be ideal. The ride is a product of Arthur Wojick, a Northern Pa Route mapping, GPS guru. So, join the gang for Spring Break 2022, make some new friends, get reacquainted with some old friends and, if the mood strikes you, get a little dirty. ~ John Ciribassi


BACKROADS • MARCH 2022

Page 33 The meet runs from 8 am till 3 pm and if you are really looking to buy then best get there early. We figured we needed a road trip and being it was the end of January we fired up the Dodge Durango and meandered down into the Amish country, finding a room at the Hershey Farm Inn; clean, comfortable, if slightly closed down in the middle of winter.

A few years back, at the urging of wordsmith Mark Byers, I took a drive down to the York Fairgrounds in, right outside York, Pennsylvania, to take in what I had known to be one of the greatest motorcycle swap meets in the nation. I have never been to one for these meets, as the smaller ones I have been to seemed to be dominated by boxes of old, rustic, and unknown parts to machines of, to me, unknown origin. Still, one man’s ceiling is another man’s floor, and somewhere along the line a rider or restorer will stroll up and with a shit-eatin’ grin on his face say, “Holy Moly it’s a Whatchamacallit Doohickey from a 1939 Whatthehellisit. I have been looking for this part for 35 years… I’ll take it!” But, arriving at the York Swap Meet, held by the Potomac Vintage Riders, I was immediately blown away by the size (BIG, really big) and scope (more than just old rusted parts – so many great things for sale). So, when Mr. Byers told us that the York Swap Meet was coming up in a few days Shira and I were in.

The small buffet dinner filled us up, but the restaurant closed at 7:30, and rather than sit in a hotel room all evening we went in search of local flair. Okay, we went carousing and we found a home at Vic’s Wayside. This place was amazing, like our Monkey with a Gun - but on steroids. It needs its own story. Getting an early start we got down to the Fairgrounds just after the doors opened and immediately found Mark and his partner-in-crime Dangerous


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BACKROADS • MARCH 2022

Dan. Unlike Shira and me that maybe would pick something up if it caught our eye, these men came to play and each had the equivalent of a small nation’s treasury, in cash, with them. My thought was if I spotted something I had to have I would ask for financial aid from the kindly nation of Byerstan and pay them back later. Still, they do not call him Dangerous Dan for nothing, and by the time it was done he had two nice dirt bikes in the back of the truck - an old Rickman and a KLX. But let me tell you why this swap meet is so much fun. It’s the people who run it, and the folks behind almost every table. These are true enthusiasts and riders that live, breathe and love motorcycles, and it shows. The swap meet is largely vintage dirt bike-focused - 1960s to mid-1990s Japanese and European are


BACKROADS • MARCH 2022

Page 35 popular along with some road bikes and specialized race bikes. Parts - new and old - to get your project running, old memorabilia, as well as new apparel / accessories, can be found here. There was a very impressive ‘Vintage Show’ in the center of the large room and the bikes that were on display ran across a wide swath of the motorcycling universe. So many neat machines. Shira and I asked each other… “If you could only have ONE of these motorcycles, which one would it be?” Shira liked the 1975 Montesa Rapita. Me? I was lusting over the Suzuki 500 Gamma – so beautiful. There were rows and rows of merchandise, both old and new, and a Used Bike Corral that had some very interesting vintage rides that were rolled in by one owner with the hopes of being rolled out by another. While Mark and Dan went in search of the next great deal, Shira and I walked the aisles, running into some friends like our buddy Joe Salluzzo from Rider magazine and a good number of Backroads readers who spotted us and came to say hello. One other point about the York Swap Meet was the number of organizations that were there promoting their rides and events. We took note of them all, especially Team Frankenstein that is promoting Vintage Youth Racing. Start em’ young and get em’ on something old! What a great way to promote motorcycles through the generations! By mid-day, we had seen all we could see and I had scored a beautiful 1965 Mustang 2+2 Fastback! Okay, it was a Hot Wheels, but still… We want to thank the Potomac Vintage Riders for having this superb event each year. It rolls into the York Fairgrounds each January and we’ll make sure to let you know when that date will be in 2023. It’s a great way to spend a winter’s Sunday and will give you that two-wheel fix you probably will need. ,


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BACKROADS • MARCH 2022 The route brought us up along New Jersey’s 519 and then into New York State and north along Mountain Road before heading over the light peak on Guymard Turnpike and then north along the remnants of the old D & H Canal. Near Kerhonkson, we meandered along some tiny backroads running along with the Rondout Creek. As I said the weather was atypical for the season and if it were a hot one, we surely would have parked the bikes for a quick dip in one of the many swimming holes along this creek.

We like to think of these impromptu journeys as stealing some rides. Sure, with a rare free day and perfect weather, cool and low humidity this late July day, we could have mowed the lawn, worked on the upcoming issue of Backroads – or we could get the morning chores and errands out of the way quickly, gear up and take off and do a wee bit of exploring. We opted for the latter; and when you think about it… we were still technically working. Simply a day in the life. Both Shira and I had our own agendas. The redhead, on her never-ending search for the next great ice cream stop for The Inside Scoop, and me constantly following O’Life’s suggestions (more like marching orders if you ask me) had yet another place to be visited. Gratefully both places were in the same general (more or less) region of New York state, so with quickly made GPX routes created and loaded onto the Garmins we mounted up and began to head north and east.


BACKROADS • MARCH 2022 Little cut-through roads offered great views of beautiful wetlands and we seemed to ride through many cloves – the deep ravines closed in by steep cliffs that are particular to this region of the Catskills. O’Life and my agenda came rolling up first – The Widow Jane Mine, just outside Rosendale. Here is an old cement mine that you can visit and explore. With its wide and sun-filled opening to its dark and spooky depths, it is an amazing thing to see. The cement from here was used extensively – the Statue of Liberty’s base, the Brooklyn Bridge, and many other historic projects got their foundations and cement from the Widow Jane Mine. You can read all about it September 2021’s Mysterious America. With lunch on the order, we rode into Rosendale’s main drag and parked across the street from The Big Cheese. It looked fun and more than a bit interesting. We hit another home run. The Big Cheese was friendly, delicious, and a bit quirky too – But in a good way. Yuval & Lisa Sterer run a wonderful little restaurant/market that boasts good, healthy, nutritive food, local farm-fresh goods, juices, and cheese from around the world. The menu of-

Page 37 fered fresh salads, deli foods to gourmet goodies, and freshly made Middle Eastern fare with some of the most inventive and scrumptious sandwiches this side of the Hudson! We can attest to that – our sandwiches were fantastic, as was the mac & cheese and stuffed grape leaves. Damn fine coffee as well. Their second-hand store in the back of the shop was fun to rummage through, making The Big Cheese a great stop on a day’s ride. With lunch now in the mirrors, we headed over the Hudson and then a bit north. Being a huge Steely Dan fan, I made a quick stop for that “digital moment” at Bard College (remember the song ‘My Old School’? That was Bard) and then we continued into the town of Tivoli. Shira got a line on a place that is considered by many to have some of the best homemade ice cream in the Empire State – Fortunes. All the ice cream is made from local ingredients and I think Shira was more than a bit impressed, but I will leave that to her to make that final call.


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BACKROADS • MARCH 2022 Our route had brought us to the far side of the Hudson and it would continue north. By this time, it was past four in the afternoon and rolling into Columbia County and glancing at the GPS I knew we had a big ride in front of us to get home before dusk. We passed the Olana and Thomas Cole Historic Sites as we crossed back into the Catskills on the Rip Van Winkle Bridge and then sped up Route 23A with its sweeping turns, deep clove gorges, and waterfalls along the Kaaterskill Creek that were raging from recent heavy rains. Near Hunter we crossed over the mountains on Platte Clove Road, a warmweather seasonal road that is shut down by the state during the winter – with good reason. But the views this time of year are nothing less than stupendous. Back off the mountain we made our way to the Ashokan Reservoir and circle around it on Route 28A and then along as many tiny roads as I could find in a desperate attempt to NOT ride on Route 209. We had mixed success and soon we were heading over the Shawangunks on 52, stopping to take in the vista from the top lookout. From here we followed our own little route back into New Jersey at the same point we had left the Garden State earlier that day. With the summer sun starting to drop we rolled into Backroads Central at eight o’clock on the nose, with about 300 miles under our wheels. A great bunch of miles and another day in the life put in the books! ,

MAKE YOUR PLANS TODAY FOR THE BACKROADS’ RALLIES DON’T MISS ANOTHER YEAR OF RIDING!


BACKROADS • MARCH 2022 INDUSTRY INFOBITES

Page 39 Continued from Page 9

States, unfortunately the only races held outside Europe, while Japan and Australia are still requiring such measures, and Thailand is trending that direction. With the Japanese and Australian Grands Prix set for September and October, 2022, the situation could hopefully change, while MotoGP’s pre-season runs will also be a testing ground for Malaysia and Indonesia’s ability to accommodate the international race series.

JAPANESE MOTORCYCLES SALES HIT 23-YEAR HIGH Prior to the Coronavirus pandemic, motorcycle enthusiasts and OEMs alike lamented the elusive Millennial buyers and declining sales, but throughout the global health crisis, motorcycles have surprisingly surged in popularity. As a result, manufacturers experienced record sales growth, with Ducati, BMW, and Energica reporting large gains in 2020 and 2021, and Japanese OEMs have similarly benefited from the increased interest and the “Big Four” (Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha) are reporting that domestic shipments hit a 23-year high in 2021 (235.755 units in-country, up 20.6%). In addition to the sales uptick, Honda, Suzuki and Yamaha all report increased sales among younger riders. Before the pandemic, Japan’s more restrictive emissions laws thwarted ridership growth, but 2021 marks the Island Empire’s most successful year since 1998, when customers purchased 318,080 new motorcycles. ,


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The Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. presents

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

Listen Last month we talked a little about sight. Visual acuity. Situational awareness. The ability to take in the entire picture, rather than focus on one thing. That nice car or the nice girl (or guy if you prefer) is not worth more than the briefest of glances while taking ALL in. Doing so can cost you. Still, we have five senses (some have six, but you knew I was going say that, didn’t you Shawn?) So, this month I thought we’d move on to the next. Listen. It could be so natural I said all you got to do is listen… Robert Lamn Listen…. hearing is key too. I Googled riding and hearing acuity to get a better look or, more to the point, to hear what others have said… There is woefully little, well none on this subject. The ability to hear potential threats may save your life. To hear “potentials” (remember those?) is an amazingly lifesaving ability. None of us are Matt Murdock, but we, hopefully, can “echo-locate” from where the sounds are coming. The direction. Speed of approach. Potential lethality. That siren coming in, seemingly out of nowhere. That horrible screech of tires. The kids yelling, as our eyes pick up the ball rolling out from the parked cars. So many things are happening around us… like we do not have our hands full already with riding to add one more thing? But listen…. we do and we need to. The other day we were heading into town for morning errands. We came upon an intersection that is just Trouble – with a capital T. We had the light, but then the police siren came wailing in. Shira was driving, and her head was spinning around … “Where the is hell he?!” she yelled. Before I could say from the left, Shira – who was heading straight – turned hard right and over a small curb into a dirt parking lot. She sensed the Sheriff was coming in at around 9 o’clock. She had only one escape vector and she took it. Thank you, honey. He was moving! If she took her light and went straight, maybe I would not be writing this. Use your hearing and the limited “echo-location” we humans have to your best advantage. While on this subject… I ride with earplugs on every ride. I did not always ride with ear protection. If I could talk to that 20-yearold Brian with the 900 Z1 with open Yoshimura pipe I would probably not have this pesky pitch ringing so loudly right now. I do believe that decades of not riding with ear protection has left me with high-pitch tinnitus that will never leave. Shira truly suffers from this. It is sometimes debilitating. One description goes like this: Common descriptions of tinnitus symptoms include hearing cicadas, wind, crickets, fluorescent lights, squeals,

running engines, grinding steel, or dripping tap water. Some people even say it sounds like a motorboat or car engine in their ears. It’s important to know that tinnitus can be a symptom itself—it’s linked to many different medical conditions, and even some medications can trigger it. It’s also strongly linked to hearing loss and loud noise exposure. Protect those ears of yours. Before, I stated that visual distractions can hurt you. So can audible intrusions. Okay, Brian – but aren’t you the guys who write about song lists for riding? Yes, I listen to music when I feel comfortable. But in town or any congested area, the music is silent. Personal earbuds, available from a few sources, make excellent ear protection, yet allow for you to hear GPS prompts and background music as well. Have you ever spent time with a person that cannot hear at all? One of my best buddies from childhood had a cousin, Larry, who was deaf – and amazing in every way. I surprise Shira now and again with my meager ability to understand some American sign language. Vey meager. Okay, I think she thinks I am making it up – but those who can truly sign…? I am so envious. What about these people as motorcyclists? Well… The Deaf Bikers of America Foundation identify themselves as; “A non-profit foundation dedicated to creating safe and fun events. Deaf Bikers of America ride to live and live to ride, and we just want to ride with other deaf bikers.” A pretty straightforward statement that quantifies what they seek to do. There are also several groups that like to host non-profit charitable events and encourage other similar deaf groups to do the same. Can you imagine when an ambulance, fire truck, or police car comes screaming up behind them with lights flashing and siren wailing? Well, there is that part about the lights flashing. Deaf riders depend far more than the rest of us on their vision. They are far more focused than we are on checking their mirrors and being visually aware of their surroundings. So re-read last month’s Jungle. www.deafbikersofamerica.com Good for these riders and good for you if you really listen. ,




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