July 2018 Backroads

Page 1

Take the

Weather with You




W H A T ’ S MO NT HLY C O L U M NS

I N S I D E 30

FREE WHEELIN’ ...........................................................3 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ....................................................4 POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE ...............................6 ON THE MARK .............................................................7 THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD ...................................8 BACKLASH.................................................................10 INDUSTRY INFOBITES..............................................12 BIG CITY GETAWAY ..................................................16 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN .......................18 WE’RE OUTTA HERE.................................................20 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA...........................................22 INSIDE SCOOP ..........................................................24 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE.....................................26 UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ............................56

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

PR O DU C T R E V IE W S BELL HELMET SRT MODULAR................................15 2018 AEROSTICH CATALOG ....................................29 2018 KAWASAKI Z900RS CAFE ...............................44 BOOK REVIEWS........................................................47 GUGLATECH FILTERS ..............................................48 IXS ST-PLUS TOUR GLOVE ......................................49

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

Contributors

Mark Byers, Dan Bisbee, Kate Hartnett, Bill Heald, Robert Laford, Racheal Stuart, Dr. Seymour O’Life

Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta NJ 07822

FE AT U RE S INTERNATIONAL MEALS ON WHEELS ..................27 2018 BACKROADS SPRING BREAK ........................30 SAVE A TURTLE - HELP A SPECIES.........................39 COMPACT IMAGERY ................................................42 4TH OF JULY, ANYTOWN, USA...............................45 RIDING HOME - BISBEE MILL MUSEUM................50

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2018. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.


BACKROADS • JULY 2018

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJeN

60 Turning 60 Today my BMW R1200GS will turn 60. Sixty thousand miles to be more precise. Yes, I know that is no big deal and there are a gajillion motorcycles out on the road running fine with two and three times those miles under the wheels. What made this milestone a bit special was that this day I turned 60 as well. That, too, is not a monumental occurrence or a big deal in any reasonable way – ‘cept maybe to myself. I think when we all hit the little markers in life we take note – usually on bigger and more significant birthdays. It does give us time to pause and reflect a bit on the ride – always made better when you have a partner and friend that has been around for exactly half of the journey. For some reason turning 20 seems to get bumped out of the way by the following year, as 21 seems to be that ‘line in the sand’ of adulthood, at least here in the States. My 30th birthday was marked by a solo ride to Shea stadium on a beat-up Suzuki 550GS. I think they won – unlike yesterday’s double-digit drubbing by the Brewers – ouch! Jump forward another decade and the situation changes to a great degree. Shira and I were with some traveling friends along the east coast of South Africa that found us in the Indian Ocean

Page 3 seaport of Durban, which was almost a pirate town some 20 years ago. Our group consisted of some ex-mercenary soldiers who ‘knew this bar’ where one of their other soldier of fortune buddies was the nightly entertainment. After a few nods of hello to his cohorts and finishing the set, Big Dick Morton (Oh, I clearly remember his name) playing a sweet sunburst Ovation 6-string, went to take a break and told the very rough audience that while he got himself a cold Castle his new friend Brian from New York City was going to play a few tunes. Always sharp as a tack I began to look around the bar, amazed at the coincidence of another guy named Brian from New York was here… and played the guitar too. Who’d have thunk it? Small world. It took a full sixty seconds before I figured out, mostly by the hard stares and nods from my accomplices, that I was the next act. It was the day before I would turn forty – and it was a pirate town – so Jimmy Buffett’s ‘A Pirate Looks at Forty’ seemed fitting. Somewhere there is a photo of this and being from the predigital age we will have to search it out. The half-century mark passed smoothly and it now seemed that we are on the road with so many friends at this time of the year on one of our Backroads’ Spring Break Rallies. Either my birthday or Shira and my wedding anniversary is on the road – it fluctuates with the years. But better spent riding with you kids than anywhere else. Continued on Page 9


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JULY 2018 • BACKROADS

WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL

WhaT MoTorcycles live WiTh you? Last month I put out the question, ‘What brought you to own the motorcycle(s) that live with you?’ It was rhetorical in my mind, but lo and behold, I received a few replies. So, instead of my usual nonsense I thought I would share the answers. It’s always fun to see who has what for any particular reason or just because they can. Enjoy the read and I’ll see you on the road soon, whatever you may be riding. Hi ShiraWhat brought you to own the motorcycle(s) that live with you? Simplesome practical decisions, others not so much. 2012 Yamaha Super Tenere: I like dirt bikes. I like Yamahas. The alternatives were more expensive and dealers not conveniently located. Hunter Motorcycles (Eric and Dorothy retired, sniff.) was MY Yamaha dealer. The bike came out in 2011 and after some close inspection, a no-brainer for me. Reliable as a hammer, reasonably comfy and decent looking. 2017 Harley-Davidson FLHX Street Glide Special: From the early 1990’s I aspired to have a Harley. After much musing and test riding I came to the conclusion, skip the other stuff and go straight to touring level. A shiny Luxury Rich Red Road King Classic found its way to my garage in 2001. In ’07 she was traded in for a Black Cherry Street Glide which, in turn, was traded in for a ’17 Velocity Red Street Glide Special. I like red motorcycles. Harleys have their supporters and detractors. I just like ‘em. Chalk this one up to emotion. 2012 KTM 350 EXC-F: Did I mention I was a Yamaha guy? Since the mid-1980’s I had Yamaha dirt bikes. I like the tuning fork brand, mainly because of the aforementioned Hunter Motorcycles. I swore I would never own a KTM. Enter a race ready, street legal 350cc four-stroke and I ate my words. Love the bike. Must always have a dirt bike. If only Yamaha would offer a race ready four-stroke that was street legal. But then KTM just released their

fuel injected 300cc 2-Stroke. My head may explode but for now the Orange one in my garage will do just fine. 2005 Honda CRF 100: One weekend in North Carolina at Aaron Stevenson’s Corner Spin School is all it took. The most fun you can have with your riding pants on. Found a lonely used one for sale on someone’s lawn. 1973 Bultaco Alpina 350cc: A love/hate relationship. Love the Spanish brand. Always have always will. Hate the fact that this one was probably built on a Monday. It came to us through Ziff Davis Publishing - owners of Cycle Magazine as compensation and a Thank You from Senor Bulto himself. The owners papers show one Cook Neilson transferring ownership to one Vincent Lisanti. This was for early 1970’s photos which happened to have a fair amount of Bultacos in them. Technically it was my Dad’s bike but he didn’t ride. I was told if I can start it I can ride it. It was my first. You always remember your first. It sits in my garage as a tribute to how my moto journey began. Thanks Dad. Tony lisanti, ceM, cPhc Shira, You requested feedback on a person’s choice in motorcycle in your latest column. You casually mentioned that short people have issues with choice of bike. Now here is the counterpoint to that situation. As you know, I am 6’ 5” tall with an inseam of 36”. Choosing a motorcycle is a matter of finding one big enough! Many years ago I fell in love with a Moto Guzzi Rosso Mandello. I went to a dealer and planned a test ride which was to cover several miles through the splendor of Bear Mountain and Harriman State Park. I left the dealer and less than 3 miles later returned to the dealer with tears in my eyes. I was bent in unnatural positions and still had no access to the shift or rear brake! The owner said she felt bad for me, but suggested that maybe a Triumph Tiger or an adventure style bike would work better for me. I also own a Road King Police motorcycle which fits me like a glove. Would you believe that a regular style Harley causes a problem because my knees hit the fairing? Have you ever noticed that riding gear stops at an inseam of 34”? What do you think a person with a 36” inseam does? His choice is either wear his pants with a “high water” style, order custom from some company willing to, or add 3 extra inches onto the bottom and


BACKROADS • JULY 2018 tuck them in like Ricky Racer. On the other hand, I am blessed with the ability to get what I need and the people at Backroads to ride with when the mood strikes. Love you guys, Byrd Shira, Ok, you asked. Here we go. Yes, there are 8 bikes housed at 242 Knox Ave. One licensed rider and one stellar navigator. When the rider met up with navigator the rider had one motorcycle, a Honda 500. Well, that led to a trade a few years later for an ‘84 Wing. The navigator was a little hard headed and really griped about not having a Harley. We found a rather rough-n-tough old cast iron sportster on the cheap. That got traded for another much nicer newer sportster that morphed into a sweet little sportster that received hot cams and nifty little carb that made it run like the wind. The ‘84 Wing got traded for an ‘86 Wing (the stator never went kaput). Some place along the way we bought a rather piecemeal 500 on/off road Honda that a mechanic friend built more or less from the ground up. So we were covered, a nice bike for long rides, a nice bike for short rides and nice bike for riding dirt roads. Cool. We went to Americade and met up with these really weird things with opposed cylinders. Love at First Sight for the navigator, oh yeah. Demos and Demos. The ‘86 Wing got sold. We bought the turquoise “Boxer”, 2tone seat, 1000. Great Bike. Oh well, sold that for our Black ‘95 GS.

Page 5 OMG! 9 glorious inches and 9 glorious gallons + a Russell Seat. Goosebumps, baby, goosebumps. Now and forever. One night we went for ice cream. We got ice cream. And a ’76 Wing, named Old Duke. So that gave us an old Wing, an old on/off road, a sporty and the GS. One day the rider went to the local bike shop to get a tire. Oh, they had something we needed. By now the Sporty was gone and I think we’d gotten a Connie as we could tow a trailer without diode boards getting cooked. What did they have that we needed? Why a Buell Cyclone, of course. The navigator found out it had 92 horse power (a lot for us) and the Cyclone joined the family. When the rider turned 40 the navigator got her mitts on a sweet little Honda Reflex, happy birthday, Dear! The sporty got sold to buy the red Connie. The red Connie got sold for a little newer silver Connie. History repeats itself, heck ya. Back to the local dealer for who knows what and once more, they had something we needed. At this stage of the game the Cyclone had gone down the road so I could buy back my turquoise BMW, for that matter. Of course after demoing KLR 650s we are now on our 3rd KLR. That’s the usual ride for after supper when we go up local backroads looking for bears. Now if I do this correctly I will come up with 8 bikes: 1 old Yamaha, 3 Hondas, 2 Airheads, 2 Kawasakis. The little old Yamaha goes around the side yard in the winter when the rider makes his little race track. The Reflex goes up and down the back steps real well when the fit hits the rider to do a little “trials” riding. There are also 3 ATVs of different ages to choose from if you need to climb a mountain to deer hunt or cut fire wood. Oh, yeah we’ve got it covered, doncha think? All for the love motorcycling. As Ever, sindee lou Thanks to you who answered my query. I’d still like to hear from you about why you chose your ride(s). If you visit Facebook, you can post your images on our Backroads Facebook page: facebook.com/Backroads-Motorcycle-Touring-Magazine-86102625812


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JULY 2018 • BACKROADS

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BILL HeALD

My FavoriTe Technology “I have seen the future, and it has lost a lot of weight.” This quote comes from that amazingly prescient philosopher and small engine repair specialist, Upton “The Eye” Pootsboro. At least, I think it comes from him. It’s entirely possible I made it up, but, dammit, it has merit. All of my life I’ve had a keen appreciation for the men and women who have figured out how to make the things we need lighter in mass. This is becoming even more important as I get older, for I have lost a small but measurable degree of my superhero powers. To add insult to injury, it seems I get involved with all kinds of mechanical things that weigh a great deal, and can be a true handful to move around. But the good thing is just about everything I have now that I have used in the past weighs less in its modern version. For example, my main scuba tank is made out of a very heavy steel (instead of aluminum) but it is physically smaller and yet holds more air under a higher pressure than the ones I had before. It’s still too damn heavy, but hey, a guy’s got to breath. My latest motorcycle is a good 80 lbs lighter than its predecessor, and I appreciate it every time I back up. The weight reduction has been accomplished in a va-

riety of ways, most notably through more advanced materials science but also the fact that the engine is smaller yet puts out more power than its larger predecessor. Helmets and other riding apparel continue to get lighter and yet offer better protection, and even luggage has been on a diet in some cases. But here’s the thing: all these miraculous advancements become a bit moot if the traveling motorcyclist insists on carrying their welding equipment, NordicTrack and the complete Pootsboro quatrain library along for the ride. You have to get into the spirit of the thing, and select traveling equipment that continues the goal of low mass because over the years, so much has happened to lighten the load. So I ask you to take a look at your usual on-road assortment of essentials, and boldly GO INTO THE LIGHT. Some examples: you should always have a roll of essential tools when you head out into the great beyond, including any specific wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers et al that fit exactly any specific part on your ride that you know you’ll need to adjust, replace or mess with when you’re on the road. These things can be critical in a pinch, and quite necessary for you to keep parts and components properly snugged, adjusted, etc, especially on longer trips. So since you need these tools, how do you save weight? Here’s a thought; if you invest in a really high quality adjustable wrench, it can do for many other wrenches provided you test it extensively on the nuts and bolts in question before you leave. There’s a world of difference in quality if you go to the pro tool people and yes, they cost more but they last and best of all, they fit. You can get by with just 1 slot head and 1 Philips head screwdriver usually, if they are the right sizes to cover many screws, or you can get one of those clever screwdrivers with exchangeable blades that store in the handle. This may not seem like it would save all that much, but it all adds up. Like to take a laptop when you travel? Have you considered a tablet perhaps? Worth a thought. What about cameras? Yes, we all have our phones, which these days take amazingly good pictures. But I always bring an additional camera that is typically waterproof and fairly rugged, and instead of lugging along my pro DSLR I have a bulletproof little digital camera that’s also moviecapable and takes fine images. It’s either this, or one of my GoPros that I use for underwater work. Both of these are very capable and easy to pack, as well as wonderfully durable. How about flashlights (aka torches if you ride a Triumph or Norton)? We live in the golden age of lighting as you can park any matter of tiny lights in your riding gear that are damn near as bright as a supernova and often can be recharged with a USB cord. To think of all the comparatively heavy steel flashlights I used to drag along, especially when camping. How hefty these beasts were, and now don’t have to be. Speaking of roughing it, the impact of materials science into the world of hiking gear is huge, and it’s here where you can really score some weight reduction if you purchase some of the latest kit. Anything from the camping store has always been the motorcyclist’s friend, as you have the durability, light weight and weatherproofness you need that is all designed to be packed away in as small a space as possible. It’s almost as if they had us in mind when they went through the design process. Which brings me to the whole reason I started this diatribe on losing weight for your traveling equipment because all these words have just been an excuse to share my (currently) favorite thing ever, and it is incredibly light and easy to pack. It’s a long-sleeve hooded shirt that is composed entirely of no-see-um mosquito netting. I use it everywhere when the mossies get out of hand, and it also does the deed on deer flies Continued on Page 9


BACKROADS • JULY 2018

ON THE MARK MARK BYeRS

The Five

Page 7 sembled by a less-than-min-wage worker who may not care. Staying healthy by riding a bicycle will keep you on your motos longer. Your five may be different – or fewer. I believe in “the right tool for the job,” but if I had to have “one,” it would be a massive struggle between all the middleweights, plus a bicycle. I’ve said this before, and it’s worth repeating: when people ask me which bike is my favorite, I’ll say, “The last one… and the next one.”

I asked myself what bikes a motorcyclist needs and here are my top five, in no order. The BMW R1200RT. For mile-eating madness, the big frau has no equal. She carried me in comfort from here to Wisconsin in a day and from here to Daytona and back in a weekend. Betsy and I went two-up from here to the northern tip of Nova Scotia and back over two weeks. Neither Maine frost heaves nor Vermont gravel upset her handling. Two-up in the Alps, the RT railed passes with handling that was more sport than tourer. The luggage is voluminous. Betsy and I tried the K-bikes, but the RT is the “just right porridge.“ The ST, the Concours, and the FJR are nice, but not up to the RT for carrying capacity, luggage volume, and handling. A “middleweight,” a Universal Japanese Motorcycle (UJM) or naked bike: everyone needs a bike they can jump on and go across town or around the countryside. Any number of cylinders will do, from a big single to a four, but it should have a capacity of at least 500 cc to keep up with traffic. It’s the commuter, grocery-store, post-office, bill-payer, and “I just need some fresh air” bike. Many will suffice, but I suggest the Ninja 650 (twin), SV650, V-Strom 650, or Street Triple 675. They are just full of fun. Maintenance? Gas and regular oil and tire changes, with an occasional wash job. A dirt bike: the essential dirt bike is the Honda XR200, but you can pick your poison from among it, the Yamaha TTR-230, or Honda CRF-230. Even though two-strokes are a blast, I recommend a fourstroke because you don’t have to mix gas, they have compression braking, and you don’t have to worry about fouling the plugs. The reason I like the XR200 is that they’ve been around forever, have an excellent aftermarket, and share engines with the 200cc ATVs. They don’t need a battery, are docile enough for beginners, and have enough power for experienced riders to have a ball on the trails. A dual-sport bike: basically a lightweight dirt bike licensed for the street. These are the REAL “ADV” bikes, ready for a fairly quick dash down the highway or a fire road, followed by forays into more challenging trails. At last year’s Summer Squeeze, a couple of us rode MotoVermont’s Honda CRF-250Ls and they were brilliant. Every manufacturer offers them, and one of my favorites is the Suzuki DRZ-400, but at my age, both me and the bike need to lose weight, so my per199 Main St. • Ste. 901 • White Plains, NY 10601 sonal dual-sport is a licensed Honda CRF-230 with a Baja Designs light kit to make it street legal. It’s offroad biased, which is what I wanted, but good enough If you’ve been involved for a dash to work or the post office or just to get to the in a motorcycle accident, trails. A bicycle. MotoGP and dirt racers get cardio workget the knowledgeable, outs by riding bicycles. Mountain bikes are a blast and y b d sympathetic and forceful ente you don’t need a motor to practice off-road skills. A repres ho has e B road bicycle allows you to go faster and farther in relalegal representation ne w someo ng for over tive comfort and if you have some hilly twisties in the i id you are entitled to. vicinity, it also allows you to focus on handling. One been r thing you need to watch out for is that most bicycles No fee unless a recovery is made. come set up with the front brake on the LEFT, so I Testimonials available. switch mine because I want the muscle memory to apply to both. Just like with motorcycles, get proper gear and a bit of instruction. You might be surprised at the number of group rides available – ask the shop. Bicycles have come a LONG way since you last rode one, Call the Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. with integrated brake and shift levers or even electric for a free consult and evaluation of your case. servo shifting. Just like with a moto, you can get carried away with cost – but don’t. I do recommend you visit a reputable bicycle shop because, while you may spend a little more, they will help fit you. NEVER buy one from a department store: they’re junk and probably as-

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Page 8

THOU GHT S FRO M THE ROA D What is a Backroads Rally? Last year as my riding buddy, Rick and I began to think about planning a southerly route for a spring ride to shake off the New England winter, Backroads released the locations of the 20th Anniversary Spring Break. The planned overnight stops overlapped well with some of the routes and sites that we were thinking about for our own trip, so we started to consider joining BR for our ride. We did wonder, however — What is a Backroads Rally? What is expected by the attendees? Do we have to adhere to the chosen routes, ride with the group, do what the taskmasters decide? And mostly, as the rallies have had a long history with a core group of riders, would we be welcomed as outsiders and newbies, and click with the seasoned group? We decided to make our reservations, but also planned routes and stops throughout the rally of those spots and areas we had been planning on before seeing the routes planned by Backroads. We figured that at the least, the chosen hotels would be a place for the two of us to rest our heads before we ventured off on our own. When the GPS routes were posted we also loaded them to offer us options for our travels. As we packed the evening before we left, a serious weather front passed through our area with heavy winds, lightning, and lots and lots of rain. When we left Massachu-

JULY 2018 • BACKROADS

Robert Laford setts the next morning, news reports were telling of the storm damage in western Connecticut and several counties in New York’s Hudson River Valley. (Later it was confirmed that five separate tornados had done damage in the two states). As we journeyed down the Taconic Parkway towards Bear Mountain and beyond to Lancaster we saw the remnants of the storm damage, including a number of road closures because of downed trees, telephone poles and wires across the road. Hopefully this was not to be an omen of what the weather for the rally would entail. We had been watching weather reports and afternoon showers and thunderstorms were promised for the future. Little did we know that when we did run into rain that morning it was the beginning of a good test of our rain gear for the next several days! When we pulled off the road at the Cork Hotel in Lancaster, the first impression was that our lodging for the trip would be exceptional. Each of the stops offered some great local character, like the music in the Floyd Country store on the third night. The second thing we noticed is that as we walked into the lobby other Backroads riders came up to us with hands out to welcome and greet the newcomers. And to take our picture. Now coincidently, riding a Can Am Spyder and a Harley Ultra Classic definitely helped with the diversity of the bikes on


BACKROADS • JULY 2018 hand. The parking lot in front of the hotel was filled, we were directed to park in the rear of the hotel. But, that was just a coincidence – wasn’t it?! Dinner and socializing with the group at the hotel’s watering hole helped to put at ease any concerns we had about fitting in to the well-established group. We were approached by many of the participants to be welcomed, tell stories, and learn about “What is a Backroads Rally?” At breakfast both Brian and Shira stopped by to chat and ask about our plans for routes, saying they were glad to have us along. Over the course of the rally we took our own routes to see the sights we had planned for last fall, we took pieces of the Backroads routes and veered off at other times, and rode the offered routes as well. Sometimes we were riding with others, sometimes alone. There were times we would be riding with a group and some would pull out, or the more spirited riders would zoom by with a wave. It did rain. Reports said parts of Virginia received up to six inches of rain over thirty hours. That did test our rain gear, but did not dampen anyone’s spirits. And when the sun came out, and it did come out, it made it even more impressive with the high water, fast-running brooks and streams, and lush, green mountain pastures and views. The National Weather Service has an emergency preparedness planning certification for communities and colleges called “Storm Ready.” I think that Backroads should modify their slogan to be: “Backroads is Storm Read and Ready to Ride!” I guess our time on the Spring Break did answer our questions about Backroads Rallies. What is a Backroads Rally? It’s anything you want it to be! Free Wheelin’

Continued from Page 3

That brings us around to today – May 27, 2018. Last week we held our 20th Spring Break Rally (Yikes, maybe we are getting old?) and given the miles to be ridden and the time frame I was dealing with a question emerged: who would turn 60 first, me or the bike? When we got home I was a bit over 300 miles short and between the daily tasks of running a motorcycle magazine, cleaning up the property damage from that hellacious storm that blasted through and the things that we all deal with day-to-day, I began taking late afternoon rides to cut down the miles with the thought of having both myself and the GS become sexagenarians together. The weather was on my side for most of this – but this day it would not be. I last parked the bike with just 20 or so miles to go and I didn’t cared if it snowed this Memorial Day weekend, I would just mount knobbies to finish what had now become almost a quest. Today I see dark skies overhead, rain approaching, bike and miles calling. Breakfast at the Elias Cole seems to be my best plan, so off I go and when I get back I will pick up my own sweet sunburst Ovation 6-string guitar and play a little Buffett. Maybe I’m Growing Older, But Not Up… but I’ll settle for Another Trip Around the Sun. PosTcards FroM The hedge

Continued from Page 6

and all manner of biting things. You just slide it on, the wind goes right through it so it’s cool, and you can thwart the insects without the use of any vile chemicals. I’m on my second one, although I still have my heavily patched original I purchased at least 15 years ago. I have to mention it now because I was in a situation recently where it literally stopped bug carnage on my person when visiting a local lake. Honestly, you can pack the sucker away anywhere, and when the little flighty bastards start coating your visor you can relax knowing that when you stop you’re equipped to deal with them. You can even sleep in it if needed. Brilliant. Oh, and did I mention it’s light? Less weight is important. . .

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JULY 2018 • BACKROADS

BACKLASH Mark, Your June 2018 On The Mark Secret Sauce was just excellent, a few great and noble riders over the years have gotten hit by the “Giant Ouija Board of Fate”. But it’s much better than being in an old age home in diapers waiting for the Grim Reaper to delivery you to your next ride. Ride Safe ed schwartzbach Hi Shira, This is Michaella in yesterday‘s rain taking the MSF course. She passed today and got her MC endorsement! Helmet look familiar? :-) So now there’s another woman rider in the ranks :-) craig grant Shira and Brian: Today I received a copy of Backroads with the article about our ride in Ecuador. Great job! I really enjoyed re-living some of the memories. I just got back from Overland Expo where I saw Court and Sylvan. Rode the Mogollon Rim trail, which just got closed because of the fire danger. Hope you can come to AZ sometime! ron Browne Hi Brian, LOVED your Repair Manifesto poster! Made copies for all the parents in my BIG family, to hang in their

Letters to the Editor garages!! Repairing stuff is how kids learn so many things! Our little girls were helping with repairs on all sorts of stuff, including their little 50cc dirt bikes. My 4-year-old grandson’s favorite toy is his mom’s tool box :) ann Willey • national cycle, inc. / ZTechnic

Garmin Assist… Backroads folks: I was sitting in the waiting room at Cross County Cycle, waiting to demo a BMW, reading the June issue. A reader wrote that they were interested in learning Basecamp. You were kind enough to offer to send that person instructions that were provided in previous issues. Please put me on that email list too. I have a Garmin 550 that I just started using after years of sitting in the box. richard Weiss • Member sTMc Richard, This would be found in the March 2016 edition, easily found online from our website www.backroadsusa.com. Hello Shira and Brian; I enjoy your magazine a lot. I’m on my second year now, and before that I was getting it from European Cycle Services. My question is about “all the gear all the time”. I wear an Arai helmet, Joe Rocket Boots and a Tourmaster Draft Air 3 jacket. My question is about pants. I have several riding pants that are too hot to wear in the summer. At the moment I find that riding with jeans and Bohn under armor is comfortable. I notice that you guys are wearing over riding suits. Doesn’t the heat get to you? Tell me if you think my gear is good, or tell me what you thing I should try. chris Chris, Yes gear can get hot, especially when stopped in traffic. Our Aerostich suits do have venting on the jackets, but not the pants.

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BACKROADS • JULY 2018 But we feel the protection and durability is worth it in most situations. If you are looking for a good and vented riding pant we would recommend Olympia’s Air Glide 4. We have a previous version of these and they work remarkably well and still offer decent protection. The jacket works well too - and this is what we use for backup.

Speaking of Aerostich… Hey Brian! What’s next? The centerfold spread of GQ? Shira’s way better looking than you are, and she only got one page in Aerostich. You got two major full-page shots going in the recent full catalogue that I just got in the mail. First page right inside the cover(!) – some romantic shot that only Shira would’ve taken - Gros Morne Park, NF. And page 191 and 192 – Ice Pack in L’Anse Aux Meadows, NF. How’d you steal two? Lookin good babalou, lookin good! craig Humbled I was one of Duluth’s choices this year… If you wear an Aerostich send your better images to Aerostich, they actively seek these images for future catalogs.

Spring Break 2018 Hello Brian and Shira, Yes, we have bailed. The hotels were nice enough not to wack us with cancellation fees. I didn’t want to be a buzzkill and post this on the Facebook page. I’m not afraid of rain riding, but the forecast looks concerning. See attachment. If you know the dates of your Summer Squeeze I’ll think I’ll move my vacation days there in lieu of this. I’m bummed! Hope the weather proves me wrong and enjoy yourselves! Joe rain Brian and Shira Who would have known that the wettest Backroads Spring gathering was also the best in recent memory. Yes we got wet and rode down some precarious dirt roads. Yes we killed a deer, pissed off a state trooper and added another broken collarbone to the injury list of he who shall remain nameless. And yes there were check engine lights and broken valve stems and bikes stuck in the mud...... But we also watched Macbeth live, saw a genuine country store dance and finished Sunday night with a well played bowling tournament. It was like being at a kids birthday party. We also collectively saved multiple turtles from certain roadway death. Where else but on a Backroads ride? And Monday morning as I rode for home I got to watch a perfect sunrise light up another spectacular road. To my coworker who looked at the washout forecast for Virginia when I told him where I was going last week and commented “Riding a bike in the rain to the middle of nowhere doesn’t look like fun.” How wrong you are! Thanks as always you two. Spring would not be so without the Backroads season opener. Jeff

Page 11 Backroads, The bowling looked like fun. Sunday I left the rally and rode back to Conway, SC to visit family. Went to the paint store today. The Andy Griffith Show was on TV. They didn’t mention the Mayberry RFD ride. Huh? Thanks for hosting so many great rallies. We’re hoping to make the Fall Fiesta ernie vaupel Hey Brian and Shira, Just wanted to say a huge thanks for putting together another wonderful Spring Break Backroads Rally. These trips are always the highlight of my year, and now Keene is hooked too. It was my first trip to Virginia on the bike, and the roads and lodging choices were fantastic. Some great company, good laughs mixed with great riding and a little gravel and rain for good measure.....yields smiles for miles. Thanks, and see you guys soon!!! lisa & Keene Hi Shira & Brian Motorcycles, motorcyclists, Mayberry, Mountain Music and Moonshine made for a memorable May Spring Break. Thank you for another great get together! Tom & Kathy Continued on Page 14


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IN DU STRY INFOBITES VERMONT MOTO PHOTO TOUR Combine your love of photography with your love of motorcycling during this three-day motorcycling photography workshop. Enjoy riding Vermont’s quiet, winding roads with pre-set photo stops and short tutorials at each. Learn the capabilities of your DSLR while traveling through the scenic Vermont landscape. Professional photographers Bob LoCicero and Dave Schmidt have a specialty in motorcycle photography and will cover everything from the basics of composition and exposure to advanced techniques using remote flash and remote cameras. Along the way you’ll talk about protecting your gear, packing your gear and just what gear to bring and what to leave behind on your next motorcycle adventure. Geared toward the photo enthusiast with a DSLR camera who would like to take their photography to the next level, this workshop provides the opportunity to learn travel photography with a motorcycling emphasis from professional photographers. Topics include; basics of composition, exposure, depth of field, ISO, lens selection, understanding histograms and image post processing in Lightroom. www.motovermont.com/photo-tour

MILLENNIALS’ STUDENT LOAN DEBT HURTS MOTORCYCLE INDUSTRY Student loan debt has been hindering millennials for years; now it’s caus-

News from the Inside ing harm to the motorcycle industry, according to MarketWatch.com, which further states the motorcycle industry has been increasingly struggling due to millennials disinterest in purchasing motorcycles in light of financial burdens. Young millennials and Gen-Z/Millennials, born between 1990 and 2003 respectively, are two-thirds as likely to be interested in motorcycles as baby boomers during their pre-family stage, Bernstein financial advisers say. Yet, even an interest in motorcycles may not be enough to keep the industry alive, as “The average millennial has almost twice as much student debt today during their ‘pre-family’ life stage as did the average.” The typical new motorcycle will cost around the same as today’s average student loan debt, which makes it difficult for young millennials to purchase cars let alone a motorcycle. Bernstein analysts additionally theorized that rebellion, the characteristic often attributed to motorcycle culture, doesn’t appeal to debt-burdened millennials like it used to appeal to older generations, who are aging out as the lead target audience.

THE WOMEN’S COALITION OF MOTORCYCLISTS ANNOUNCE SJ HARRIS LEGACY FUND The Women’s Coalition of Motorcyclists (WCM) is dedicated to doubling the number of female riders by 2020. In pursuit of this goal, we have teamed up with SJ’s management team Threader 24 Racing and Porsche Taylor for Black Girls Ride Magazine to create the SJ Harris Legacy Scholarship Fund. Joi “SJ” Harris, was the first African American female licensed by both the Champion Cup Series (CCS) and the


BACKROADS • JULY 2018 American Sport bike Racing Association (ASRA) in the United States. She lost her life shooting a scene for the upcoming Deadpool 2 film. SJ Harris was a brilliant and fierce rider who set an example for young women everywhere. She took time out of her busy schedule to speak to and train female riders, to help them learn about safety and encourage them to live their dreams. When the opportunity arose for her to participate in the Deadpool 2 film, it was a dream come true, so she was off to Canada to fulfill that dream. To let her example live on WCM, Threader 24 Racing and Black Girls Ride Magazine established a scholarship program to commemorate the legacy of SJ Harris. The scholarship fund will be used to help increase the number of women riders by offering basic and advanced rider courses for licensure as well as increase the number of women taking part in track days throughout the United States. You can participate in commemorating the legacy of SJ by making a donation into the legacy fund by following this link www.youcaring.com/sj-harris-legacy

THOMPSON VINTAGE MOTORCYCLE CLASSIC The third annual Thompson Vintage Motorcycle Classic will take place Sunday, June 24. Thompson Speedway Motorsports Park welcomes enthusiasts of both classic and modern motorcycles to the Northeast corner of Connecticut. This year’s event will again feature a packed field of historic and antique motorcycles in a Classic Motorcycle Show, a massive Swap Meet Marketplace and Vendor Midway area, a Vintage Motorcycle Track-Day on Thompson’s 1.7 mile road course, and free parking inside the pits for riders of modern cycles. This exciting event provides a Motorcycle Festival atmosphere for all New England motorcycle enthusiasts. Gates open at 9 a.m. on the 24th and general gate admission is just $10.

The fan favorite Parade Of Classics will happen Sunday at noon. Motorcycle Show participants are welcome to take a parade lap around Thompson’s 1.7-mile road course. (Helmet required). Vintage Track Day will start immediately after parade lap. Thompson Speedway Motorsports Park is located at exit 50 (formerly exit 99) off I-395, at 205 E Thompson Road, Thompson, CT 06277. The park is just 50 minutes from downtown Boston, 2.5 hours from New York City and 40 minutes from Hartford and Providence. For more information, call (860) 923-2280 or visit: www.thompsonspeedway.com

SUPREME COURT SIDES WITH MOTORCYVIRGINIA SEARCH CASE

CLISTS’ RIGHTS IN

The U.S. Supreme Court has ruled that the warrantless police search of a motorcycle on private property was an “invasion of the sanctity” of the area around the house, even though authorities believe the motorcycle may have been stolen. The 8-1 decision bolsters the protections for outside areas around a home when law enforcement agencies do not have a search warrant. The AMA filed an amicus brief in the case in November, stating that “there is nothing inherently suspiciousand no inherent justification for a search-in the use or ownership of a motorcycle.”

Page 13 “This was a very important case, and it was not a surprise that the court ruled to protect citizens from unreasonable search and seizure,” said AMA Vice President of Government Relations Wayne Allard. The case is No. 16-1027, Ryan Austin Collins v. Commonwealth of Virginia. The Supreme Court of Virginia ruled that, because Collins’ vehicle was a motorcycle and not a car or truck, the officers who searched under the motorcycle cover did not need a warrant to do so. The AMA brief argued that the judgment of the lower court should be reversed. “By removing and looking beneath the cover of the motorcycle parked in the curtilage of the home, the police conducted a warrantless search in violation of the Fourth Amendment,” the brief stated. While the AMA’s brief expresses no opinion regarding the petitioner’s ultimate guilt or innocence of the alleged crime, it emphasizes that motorcycles should not be subjected to unreasonable searches and seizures. The consequences of the erosion of motorcyclists’ protections under the Fourth Amendment would be severe. We said it before and we will say it again. We understand what the AMA was doing here, but their choice of cases to defend could have been better. This was a bad apple and there is still a rider in New York State that had a motorcycle stolen from them. What about their rights? - ed. Continued on next page


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MOTORCYCLE INDUSTRY COUNCIL AND CONGRESSIONAL MOTORCYCLE CAUCUS HOST EMERGING CONNECTED AND AUTOMATED TECHNOLOGIES BRIEFING The Motorcycle Industry Council, in coordination with the Congressional Motorcycle Caucus, hosted a briefing on “Intelligent Transportation Systems and Automated Vehicle Applications Impacts on Motorcycle Safety” on May 22. Caucus co-chairs, Reps. Tim Walberg, R-Mich., and Michael Burgess, R-Texas, addressed the Caucus’s mission to support riders through education and awareness, the potential for technologies to improve the riding experience and bring in new riders, and why the discussion on how motorcycles will factor into a connected and autonomous world is so important. The briefing, moderated by Callie Hoyt, MIC’s manager of federal affairs, featured a panel of industry and research experts: Sam Campbell, BMW Group; Gary Higgins, American Honda Motor Company, Inc.; Shane McLaughlin, Virginia Tech Transportation Institute; and Eric Teoh, Insurance Institute for Highway Safety. Panelists discussed how connected and autonomous applications relate to motorcycles, how the applications can supplement one another, and the overall effect that widespread connected and automated technology can have on motorcycling. Both the House and Senate have been developing legislation that would establish the first federal regulatory framework for autonomous vehicle (AV) technologies. The briefing recognized the importance of ensuring that the needs of everyone on the road — particularly motorcyclists — are addressed

JULY 2018 • BACKROADS in AV legislative and regulatory landscapes, as well as in real-life applications. “The briefing provided an excellent opportunity to highlight motorcycling and the Congressional Motorcycle Caucus to congressional staff,” said Kathy Van Kleeck, MIC’s senior vice president, government relations, who was pleased that staff from many House and Senate offices were in attendance. BacKlash

Continued from Page 11

Brian and Shira, Karen and I had such a great time on Spring Break. You guys never cease to amaze me. From the awesome destinations to the great roads and the time spent with friends new and old. I know you put a lot of effort into it and it shows. Looking forward to fall. Thanks again for the battery; I can’t believe you actually had one. Don’t know how far you went up 81 but once we got closer to Scranton the fog and the rain was unbelievable. Hope you didn’t get caught in that traffic. Ken & Karen Hi Guys, You’ve run a bunch of rallies over these years and you get all the same reactions - “Lots of fun”, “Great roads”, “Seeing my friends again” and more. Always the same, but in my view, each rally deserves its special recognition. Yes, seeing the same warm smiles from familiar faces, hugging and being hugged, witnessing others doing the same all around you - familiar sights but special each time it’s experienced. This year, really special because the constant heavy rain on the way down and predicted for most of the trip did virtually nothing to reduce the attendance and for some, including myself, added a little extra adventure to the whole experience. These “Backroads Family Happiness” events have become what could be called cherished memories, at least for me and I’m sure for others. We all appreciate what you two do to make our lives that much more enjoyable. John Petrocelli


BACKROADS • JULY 2018

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

Page 15

BELL HELMETS ALL-NEW SRT MODULAR HELMET

Bell Helmets all-new SRT Modular helmet, an incredibly versatile street helmet, designed to serve a wide range of riders and needs, whether it be daily commuting, weekend jaunts or long-range touring. The Bell SRT offers a variety of key visibility features, no less of which is Panovision Class 1 Optics – Bell’s proprietary viewport design for maximum visibility and compatible with the up to 17 shield options, including Bell’s all-new ProTint. The ProTint shield, Bell Helmet’s first proprietary photochromatic shield, utilizes photochromatic technology to self-adjust to random changes in lighting conditions, arming riders with optimal clarity, day or night and regardless of varying environments. Along with the wider viewport and multiple shield compatibility, the SRT Modular goes a step further by housing an integrated drop-down sun shield, usable in both full face and ‘flip up’ modes, and is eyewear compatible.

“We’re always designing with the intention of arming our helmets with specific features and differentiators that set them apart in their respective categories and effectively serve specific rider needs, and with the SRT, the focus was visibility,” said Chris Sackett, Vice President of Bell Helmets. “Panovision Class 1 Optics and ProTint, combined with the SRT’s drop-down sun shield, eyewear compatibility and lightweight design, make it an ideal blend of style, technology and versatility that riders are seeking with modular helmets.” The SRT Modular is constructed from a lightweight fiberglass material that complements its sleek styling, creating a helmet that not only stands out from the average modular models stylistically, but also offers added comfort. In addition, the SRT Modular features recessed EPS for speaker pockets, allowing riders to utilize a variety of communication devices. The helmet, with a retail set at $349.95 and available in XS to XXXL in a variety of colorway options, is available now in select retailers and online at www.bellhelmets.com.


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JULY 2018 • BACKROADS

Hanover Powersports Presents

B IG CITY GETAWAY

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind

The caTsKill connecTion • ParT TWo Crossing the hudson – the great Catskill aqueduCt siphon Last month we rode around the region of the Catskills that was taken and submerged to slake the thirst of the ever-growing Big Apple in the biggest landgrab, eminent domain, town-shuffle in the state’s history. But getting the water to New York was a tough problem too – especially crossing the Hudson River. To do this the engineers of the day truly stepped up and made something amazing – yet, oddly forgotten although a good part of it is in plain sight. North of West Point there is a road, Route 218, that runs along the very edge of a cliff, high above the Hudson River. The large peak has been called Storm King for hundreds of years. It had other names as well but it was the author Nathan Parker Willis who said, “The tallest mountain is looked upon as the most sure foreteller of a storm. When the white cloud-beard descends upon his breast in the morning there is sure to be a rainstorm before night. Standing aloft before other mountains in the chain, this sign is peculiar to him. He seems the monarch, and this seems his stately ordering of a change in the weather. Should not Storm King, then, be his proper title?” The name still fits today. But, back then, travel around the mountain, at least on land, was difficult at best and it was just at the beginning of the last century that designs for a road along its eastern edge, above the river from West Point to Cornwall, was considered.


BACKROADS • JULY 2018 The original thought was for a tunnel to be bored through the mountain but the newly appointed Palisades Park Commission would have none of that. This commission also stopped a hydroelectric plant from destroying the mountains. Who said the government cannot really work? But building a road here would be no easy task as workers and engineers had to be suspended by rope to lay out the road and ships from the United States Military Academy at West Point steamed up the Hudson and shot cannon rounds full of red paint at the rock wall to provide surveyor’s marks. To make things more difficult the quarry that controlled the property at the base of the mountain refused the “right of way” for construction. Cement was hauled up the side of the mountains by mules and machinery had to be brought up and down with great difficulty through forest and steep inclines. Dynamite, a much-needed tool for this type of construction, reaked havoc as debris and rock tumbled to the riverside – sometimes with disastrous results.

Despite difficulties the road along the edge of Storm King opened in October of 1922. Just a few years earlier other construction was being done along Storm King and with the need so great at hand – there was little arguing with local companies and land rights. The Great Catskill Aqueduct, bringing much needed water from the newly dammed Ashokan Reservoir to the city, needed to cross the river on it watery flow to New York City and the two mountains on either side of the river at this point – Storm King to the West and Breakneck Mountain to the east seemed the best place to find solid bedrock to bore a tunnel through and ensure safe and easy travel for the water for the next few hundred years. It would be call The Siphon – and many thought it an impossible engineering task; but, as we know with humans, never say never. Still, from the beginning of drilling, the engineers encountered the unexpected. They thought they would quickly find bedrock beneath the Hudson’s waters, but yet their diamond tip drills encountered glacial silt and mud for hundreds of feet. Where was the bottom? Bedrock was key for the 14-foot circular tunnel would reach about 15 tons of pressure to the square foot. For a year they searched with large drilling ships anchored in the middle of the river – much to the irritation of commercial shipping traffic. They also had to deal with the harsh winters for which the Hudson Valley is known and the reason they call the mountain Storm King. At nearly 800 feet the engineers tried a different approach, drilling straight down from the shore and then diagonally across the river, encountering bedrock the

Page 17 entire way. They then added a safety margin of 150 feet, establishing the horizontal level of the final water tunnel at 1,100 feet below the surface of the Hudson. The tunnel itself was built by hundreds of laborers using steam-powered equipment and horse-drawn carriages. At the time only the construction of the Panama Canal was a larger undertaking. After many months of dangerous labor, the sandhogs were able to take one last look around, before sealing both shafts of the tunnel with forged steel caps weighing 46 tons each. Once filled with water this section of the aqueduct now known as The Great Catskill Aqueduct Siphon was complete, and the aqueduct opened for business in 1915. The tunnel has never been opened since and 4 million gallons flow through it each day powered by gravity alone at a rate of about four feet per second. The only visible signs of all this construction are two stone gatehouses built over the caps, on either side of the river: modest monuments to a grand concept. We went in search of these along the eastern shore of the Hudson, just north of Cold Spring where Route 9D runs through the tunnel bored through Breakneck Mountain. You will find a small parking lot along the Metro North tracks that speeds commuter trains along the Hudson. You can walk a small trail up along the rocks and around to see the eastern terminus of the Siphon. It is a small square building right on the shore of the river. We were a bit surprised and dismayed at the condition of this building – holes in the roof, and overgrown with weeds and woodsy growth - considering what it is and how it still plays a huge part in the keeping the city 60 miles to its south working, playing and alive. It is easily seen from the river and has the words “City of New York – Catskill Water Supply A.D. 1913 on a relief facing the water. Although there are signs from NYC Environmental Protection forbidding you from getting close to the building the graffiti and remnants of bonfires show that local kids pay little attention to these. We spotted no cameras, no security and a horrible lack of upkeep on this treasured piece of New York City history. But, nestled between West Point and Bannerman’s Island - it is right here for you to see and another reason to ride along the stunning Hudson River.


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G REAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN WaTerMan’s craB house 21055 W SHARP ST., ROCK HALL, MD 21661 410-639-2261 • WWW.WATERMANSCRABHOUSE.COM We can almost hear it… “Wait a second… are you guys telling me that this month’s stop along the Great All American Diner Run is back, once again, along the shore of the Chesapeake Bay and, once again, you two are feasting on crabs done up with Old Bay seasoning and salt?” Well, yes it is and yes we are. Summertime will always find us making our way to The Bay (many times if we are lucky) and it is nearly impossible to cross this wonderful region without sitting down at a table covered with paper and attacking a dozen or so Jimmies! This classic crab, the Blue Crab (Callinectes sapidus), can be found in the waters of the Chesapeake Bay and in other regions along the Eastern Seaboard of the USA. Its range extends from Southern New England to Florida. We have even heard of folks crabbing in the Hudson River. Now if only we can entice them to the upper Delaware. Back in the day, before Old Bay, crabs were seasoned a bit more simply with just vinegar, salt, and pepper. Old Bay was not offered for sale until 1939 when it was developed by a German immigrant, Gustav Brunn, who came to Maryland when he fled Germany. This recipe for this iconic crab seasoning mix contains mustard, paprika, celery salt, bay leaf, black pepper, crushed red pepper flakes, mace, cloves, allspice, nutmeg,

tasty places to take your bike

cardamom, and ginger. This is a classic “kitchen pepper” which includes both savory and sweet spices. If you have never had Old Bay – your life would be more fulfilled and tastier once you have. This time down to The Bay we spent a night in Rock Hall and it is a short ride over to Waterman’s where we would grab a dockside table with a spectacular view to the west and the approaching sunset. For more than four decades Waterman’s has been “the place” for both locals and visitors to flock and although they have a full menu, who doesn’t come for the crabs?! Seriously? Okay, before we talk about Callinectes sapidus we will tell you what else can be found. On the appetizer menu you will find pulled pork nachos, fried calamari and oysters and steamed jumbo shrimp, buffalo wings and fried coconut shrimp. Their own Waterman’s nachos are smothered in crabmeat, shrimp and scallops with a creamy cheese sauce, pico-de-gallo and green onions. Yummy and semi-healthy too. They offer some tasty salads as well and even though we came for the crabs we did take a plate full of Waterman’s spinach salad with bacon bits, egg, tomato, crum-


BACKROADS • JULY 2018

bled blue cheese with a warm bacon dressing (can’t have too much bacon!). This was outstanding and we swore we could eat this salad every day. The rest of the salads – Caesar, Oriental, crab and their Chesapeake combo all looked delicious as well. On the soup side of things Waterman’s offers both Maryland crab and cream of crab and both were awesome. Burgers can be found and big ones too (just like the crabs) – ½ pounders – and, of course, they offer a crab burgers as well. For you fans of Mexican there are Crabhouse tacos – Tex-Mex style, shrimp and Ahi tuna; and you can get that blackened too.

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This is a seafood joint so their main entrees include crab cakes, stuffed shrimp, orange roughy and local rock fish and a New Orleans gumbo that almost made me jump ship on our order of a dozen large crabs. Almost. They also do a decent rack of ribs. But…it was now crab time and a dozen big Jimmies were dropped in front of us. A dozen might not seem like a lot for two adults – but Waterman’s was serving up some monsters this day; and crabs are a bit of work. Know you will get a bit dirty, crab shells will fly - but it is all worth it in the end. About an hour later our official shell bucket – straight from Home Depot – was full, as were we. Stuffed, victorious, and done we paid our bill and made our way out to the bike and immediately went for ice cream – what would you expect when riding with ice cream maven Shira? Should you decide to spend a few days in Rock Hall (well worth it) Black duck inn • 410-708-9222 • theblackduckinn.com carriage house • 410-639-2855 • carriagehousemd.com inn at haven harbour • 410-778-6697 • havenharbour.com osprey Point • 410-639-2663 • ospreypoint.com


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JULY 2018 • BACKROADS

WE’RE OUTTA HER E souTh Branch inn 1500 US HWY 220, MOOREFIELD, WV 26836 304-538-2033 • WWW.WVAFUN.COM August 7, 1864: Along the deep valley that would be known as South Fork the horses stirred uneasily as the morning sun began to clear the night’s mist. It was just a week earlier when Confederate troops, led by Brigadier General John McCausland, were unable to extort ransom from the town of Chambersburg, PA – so they burned it to the ground and then fell back south through Maryland and into what is now West Virginia. Reaching the South Fork region they felt safe. They were not as, Union Calvary troops led by Brigadier General William Averell were in hot and dogged pursuit. The Union troops rode silently toward the rebel camp, dressed in rebel gray and, before McCausland’s men knew it, they were under attack. In the big scheme of things it was a small battle – but like many things, it had big ramifications. This was one of the few true cavalry battles of the Civil War and was a complete victory for the Union Army as it led to the breaking of the stronghold the Confederates had on the entire Shenandoah Valley – the breadbasket for the south. Over 150 years later the valley is once again a crossroads, as a few larger West Virginia roadways have confluence here. And, in the middle of all this, built right next to the field where the Battle of Moore-

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a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads field took place, you will find the South Branch Inn. The South Branch is one of two inns – the other being in Romney – and is smack in the middle of the Mountain State’s finest pavement – and gravel for that matter. The hotel has a large number of rooms all extremely well appointed, with all the modern amenities and Wi-Fi. The lobby is well done too, with great display cases highlighting the state and the region. There is coffee all the time and a conference room if needed. This would be a perfect gathering spot and base camp for clubs and organization rallies such as COG and HOG riding groups. Just down the road you will find Lost River State Park; 3,700 acres of stunning West Virginian mountains, forest and valley and the road, Howard’s Lick, is a very technical and challenging ride, especially in fog. Trust us. Nearby you will find other West Virginia favorites such as Seneca Rocks, the Mummies of Philippi and the Trans-Allegheny Lunatic Asylum to the west and the Cass Railroad and Green Bank Radio Observatory to the south. Although it is located next to an historic battlefield, that does not belie the fact that this part of Moorefield has had some development and, regardless of the niceties of the South Branch Inn, there is a bit of ‘stripmallification of America’ here. But,


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that could be a good thing for riding groups. Fuel, auto supply and a Wal-Mart are right nearby. Like lawyers and the police – you don’t want them around till you need them and then you are grateful they are there. But the South Branch Inn has a few other things to entertain you. A full movie theater is right here and a bowling alley with an ice cream shop within – how convenient. When we held our 20th Annual Spring Break here we had folks getting in early and heading over to see Deadpool 2 and, that night, there was dinner to be found at the Ponderosa right next door. But the best was the bowling alley. That weekend we held our Big Backroadski Bowling Tournament which was more fun than we could have ever hoped for. Who knew how athletic our riders were? So, you see, the South Branch Inn in Moorefield, West Virginia has so much more to offer riders and riding groups than just a bed and cable. They are VERY motorcycle friendly and want our business – when riding in this part of West Virginia you will not be disappointed if you give them yours.


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Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MY STERIO U S A MER IC A concreTe ciTy • nanTicoKe, Pennsylvania THE TOuGHEST TOWN IN AMERICA? I often joke that there is so much that you can find right along the side of America’s backroads. Such was the case when I was making my way along the northeast region of Pennsylvania coming from a conference on Interdimensional Time Travel and the Ramifications of MLB’s Play Review Rules, when I passed an historic marker that firmly grabbed my eye. Indeed, just when I needed it – a taste of Mysterious America. The year was 1911 and coal was King – especially in northeastern Pennsylvania. To fulfill the energy needs of the growing nation in the midst of the Industrial Revolution thousands of tons of the black combustible rocks came out of the Keystone State by the trainload. To keep all this flowing they needed manpower and the Delaware, Lackawana & Western Railroads Coal Division needed to bring in workers and needed a place for them all to live. Looking to make a strong and worthy investment they created what would become known as the Concrete City. Concrete was still a novel material at the dawn of the twentieth century and the Pennsylvania railroads were using it to build a wide variety of projects. The largest were the high viaducts that the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western Railroad (DL&W) built along its New York-Scranton-Buffalo main line. At its opening in 1915, the 240-foot-high Tunkannock Viaduct, just north of Scranton, was hailed as the largest concrete structure in the world.

So when the DL&W decided to build “model worker” housing alongside its Truesdale Colliery (at the time the largest anthracite coal mine operation in the world) near Nanticoke they were determined to combine the latest technologies with the best notions of progressive social thinking and the railroad decided the houses would be built of concrete. Praised by its designers as the “Garden City of the Anthracite Region,” Concrete City was built in 1911 to house only a select few of DL&W’s employees. Prospective tenants had to speak English as their first language (re: Americans only), and also had to be employed in positions of “high value,” such as foreman, shopman, or technician. The grandly named Concrete City was in actuality a square of twenty double houses. Only forty of the Truesdale mine’s 1,700 employees would receive a spot in the wondrous new community, which featured sidewalks, electric street lights, a concrete swimming pool, playgrounds, a baseball field, and tennis courts. To build this cutting edge residential complex, the DL&W hauled in materials on railroad track built around the construction site, and mixed the component sand, cement, and cinders on flat cars. An innovative system of portable hinged steel molds, designed and patented by the New York firm of Read and Merrill, allowed the company to build an entire two-family house in a single day. Each house (half of a double) rented for $8 per month, and had seven rooms: living room, dining room, and kitchen downstairs, with four bedrooms above. A


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coal stove between the living and dining rooms provided heat, as did a coal cook stove in the kitchen. Concrete outhouses, complete with coal bins, were located in the rear of each house. Social expectations were implied, if not required, and E. E. Loomis, company president in 1913, contended that the “model surroundings” were the just reward for company workers, and assured the “health and safety of its employees above ground.” As you would think the first to move their families into Concrete City were middlemanagement - the chief of the power plant, the chief clerk of the colliery, the fire bosses, the head electricians and so on. Most of the workers, or immigrants, had little hope of securing a home. The Concrete City homes, however, never lived up to the hopes of their builders. Although the engineers had added coal cinders and crude oil to the building material to inhibit moisture absorption, the interior walls dripped with condensation. One former resident recalled that her father’s shirts froze in

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an upstairs closet during the wintertime, and her mother had to iron them every morning just so he could put them on. By 1920, paint and plaster were peeling from the walls. By 1924, a mere eleven years after its construction, Concrete City was abandoned. The buildings were then sold and were to be demolished to make way for new construction. But, there was a little bit of a problem. The Cement City was built far too well. The new owners, the Glen Alden Coal Company, set about to take the buildings down in a big way - with explosives - only to discover that the power of 100 sticks of dynamite in one of the buildings had little impact. If fact, it barely dented it! The buildings of the Cement City are still there in the hills of Pennsylvania and recently the Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission has undertaken a mission to save the buildings, recognizing their important role in one of the failed technological experiments in Pennsylvania railroad and coal mining history. O’Life out!


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JULY 2018 • BACKROADS 38 WesT sT, WalTon, ny 13856 607-510-4173 • Find TheM on FaceBooK hours: everyday 11aM-8PM serving Food + ice creaM

Today I’ll take you to a spot in the Catskills. The Catskill region of NYS is a wonderful area to explore with lots of little towns and villages varying in development, from sleepy little burgs to overhyped too-touristy towns. Walton falls towards the former, with just enough in it to warrant a stop along your path to or from wherever. The Penguin Café is that stop, especially should it be lunch time or you are in need of a sugar fix to keep you going. Situated just off the confluence of Routes 10 and 206, and conveniently located across the street from Klinger Powersports (should you need some Kawasaki or Can-Am parts/service), the Penguin Café has plenty of room for a group (in and outdoor seating) to enjoy some very tasty lunch offerings as well as their unique style of soft-serve ice cream. The parking is ample and it is certainly easy enough to find along your way. So, let’s start with a real food: they’ve got you covered with sandwiches, salads, burgers, wraps and appys and that’s all before you even are handed the specials menu. Since we were really here for the ice cream, we balanced it out with a couple of salads. Brian opted for greens topped with vanilla chicken salad with a cup of cheeseburger soup and I went for the fresh spinach salad topped with apples, bleu cheese, hardboiled eggs and bacon crumbles. Either of these was large enough to share and if there wasn’t ice cream afterwards


BACKROADS • JULY 2018

I would have been quite satisfied. But there was – and quite a decision had to be made. I mentioned unique before and this is where it comes in. The Penguin’s ice cream starts with a brick of either chocolate or vanilla ice cream, which gets plopped in the machine along with as many mix-ins as you’d like – and that list is quite extensive. Here’s the process: Choose your ice cream flavor, then cone or cup and size, select your mix-ins, then your topping and lastly any sprinkles or nuts. And here are just a few mix-ins to get your imagination going: apple pie filling, blackberry, mango, coconut, brownie, graham cracker, butterfingers, cinnamon, root beer barrel candy, maple walnut, fruity pebbles and rice krispies (not even half the list). If you tend to become overwhelmed when too many options are on the table, the Penguin folk are kind enough to offer their Penguin Creations such as Monkey Business – vanilla ice cream with peanut butter and fresh bananas; PB&J – vanilla ice cream with peanut butter sauce and sliced strawberries or S’more Galore – chocolate ice cream with graham cracker crumbs, chocolate syrup, chocolate chips and marshmallow. You can have yourself a float, split or milkshake or simplify it all and just have a vanilla, chocolate or twist soft serve. If you prefer your ice cream unblended, just customize your own sundae with any toppings and off you go. Since I was eating lunch and staring at the menu board, I had ample time to devise my concoction, which was a chocolate base with Reece’s PB cup, candied bacon and bananas. The flavor was great, although I found the texture took me a minute to get used to, as it reminded me of eating a fudgsicle (not a bad thing at all). Should I return to the Penguin, I think that I would start with a vanilla base, as the chocolate definitely overwhelmed the flavors of the mix-ins. Here’s a nice little 90-mile one-way jaunt starting at the Catskills Mountain Resort in Barryville, NY. It’s a great place to stay should you be heading further into the Catskills for future exploration and adventure. Enjoy and remember to eat ice cream often! (Rip & Ride on page 54)

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JULY 2018 • BACKROADS

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

TaKing sTocK having What You need When You need it I recall, a number of years back, an investment banker, Jim Rogers, who became a bit of a motorcycle celebrity for his long range travels accompanied by a woman whose job was to trouble shoot, diagnose and fix anything mechanical that might go awry along the way. This woman, Tabitha Estabrook, was trained on every aspect of the bike – a BMW - and made sure she brought along just about everything and anything she might need on this trip tool-wise. I thought about her the other morning when I was clearing out my old tool carrier (a beat up Otter Box) and transferring everything to a new Mosko Fatty Tool Roll. While doing this it occurred to me to take stock of what tools I was actually carrying along for the ride and whether I really needed them, might need them or could not go without them no matter what. Some would stay, some would go and new tools were purchased. Although not one to dwell on bad things it might be time to look at your machine and go over all the different sizes and types of nuts and fasteners to be found on it. Regular bolts, Torx and Allen key fasteners seem to be found everywhere on machines these days. It pays to take note of with what your bike is held together. I did this on two different machines – my GS and Shira’s V-Strom. Yes, she does have her own tools, but I like to keep mine handy and organized – the new tool roll helps enormously. Running through worse case scenarios I wanted to be sure I had the correct tools to remove the wheels, the tanks (or tank cover) and be able to do fairly simply, but perhaps necessary, tasks like replace a battery (we got good at this last year) or brake and clutch levers. Sometimes this requires a special one-off tool that will be used for nothing but a single task – like the wrenches to remove a BMW R1200GS’s wheels. I am blessed with the fact that the Jesse bags I have on my GS have a lot of room and, in addition to my tool roll, I have another pouch carrying all

sorts of things that may or may not come in handy over the course of a riding season. If you have tubeless tires you owe it to yourself to carry a Stop n Go Tire Repair Kit and, as we showed a few dozen Summer Squeezers last year in Vermont, they are easy to use and will keep you on the road. Although I carry a flashlight in my tank bag I also carry a headlamp flashlight. I have been using the Vizz from Princeton Tec, a bit more expensive than some, but quality talks and less walk. This light allows for using both hands and my opposable thumbs and putting the light where it is needed. When swapping tools from box to roll I came across a few tools I had just forgotten about – one being a nifty little jewelers screwdriver – the kind to help fix glasses or remove the back cover from somebody else’s BMW GPS unit to get to the SD card. I remember us searching for such a tool down south – although I had one with me all the time; thus taking stock. Maybe a check list would be a good idea too. While doing this I took a ride to the local tool shop and bought a small set of sockets for the tool roll, knowing which sockets I needed and which ones I did not. I am not going to give you a list of everything that I have, but I seem to have a lot going along for each ride, and if I am not one the guys you want to ride with, my saddle bag certainly would fit that bill. By the way… don’t forget the duct tape. Ever.


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Backroads’ Meals on

Wheels

Khans Mongolian BBQ

Khan: I’ve done far worse than kill you. I’ve hurt you. And I wish to go on... hurting you. I shall leave you as you left me, as you left her. Marooned for all eternity, in the center of a dead planet... buried alive. Buried alive. Kirk: KHHHHAAAAAAAAN! Let us be clear: no one was buried alive in this story, unless it was a plate of delectable Asian fare. But we could not let those lines from The Wrath of Khan go. On a perfect riding Tuesday night in early May Backroads held its second International Meals on Wheels, this time we rode to the Asian nation of Mongolia. Well, okay not actually to Mongolian, but a neat Mongolian BBQ outside Stroudsburg, Pennsylvania. This time, with a little advanced notice, we had twice as many bikes turn up and even one guy by car. All are welcome! Mongolian BBQ is a bit different in how things are done. This night, for a set price, you get a choice of appetizers: soups, wontons, egg rolls – the usual. But, this is where the usual ends and Khan’s begins. There are rows of fresh uncooked ingredients and you grab a plate and pick what you would like them to grill up for you. Scallops, shrimp, pork, beef, bacon, chicken, fresh eggs and the like - add to that fresh vegetables and noodles of your choice along with which sauce or sauces you would like added to it. I mixed crab, shrimp, scallops, broccoli, mushrooms, beans and their Mongolian sauce with some ginger. It was delicious. But, it was a good idea to go small the first time around as this is all you can eat and my next foray went more towards their porky goodness.


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JULY 2018 • BACKROADS It was fun to see what everyone chose as they browsed the aisle carefully scanning the many choices of ingredients. When ready, you bring your plate up to the large circular hot griddle where the chef will point to a numbered spot and take your selections to cook them up in front of you. Lots of steam and flash goes into each meal. It is a fun thing to watch and even better to taste. There is also a small salad bar and six ice creams for dessert (which made Shira very happy). Khan’s BBQ was a lot of fun and we’ll be doing these each month through the riding season. Stay tuned to the Backroads’ FaceBook page or the weekly Backroads Report (sign up on our website) to find out where in the world we will be traveling next.

Backroads’ Meals on

Riverton Restaurant

Wheels After spinning our wheels to classic American one month and then to Mongolia the next, we thought it was time to reach for classic European nation and Greece immediately came to mind – right after that the Riverton Hotel & Restaurant popped into our thoughts. Owned and operated by the Markopoulus Family, the hotel has it origins all the way back to the early 1700’s – although it looks a bit different today. You will find the Riverton on the Pennsylvania side of the Delaware, right across the free Bridge at Belvidere, New Jersey. It seems each month we do this we get more and more riders and motorcycles. We had some familiar faces and were also joined by classic Japanese motorcycle collector Peter Bartholomew and a group of his friends – a welcome addition. We had a good group of nice bikes in the parking lot on this pleasant Wednesday in late May.

If you have never been to the Riverton the food is always delicious and the Markopoulus family always most excellent hosts, especially John who is almost a show by himself with his great comments, candor and wit. The back and forth between him and our friend Graham was classic. Although the Riverton does offer many American standards, their Greek food is outstanding and that is what we came for. The Grecian Specialties are authentic Greek dishes served with a Greek salad and fresh homemade bread. The Greek Fisherman’s Delight, served over pasta had calamari, scallops, shrimp, clams, mussels and flounder, sautéed in olive oil with feta, tomatoes, and herbs. Some went for the Moussaka, which is a classic Greek staple. Layers of eggplant, potato, meat sauce, and creamy béchamel, topped with a tomato sauce. The family also has a Baked Chicken Athenian, created with phyllo dough wrapped chicken breast stuffed with spinach, rice, feta, herbs with a tasty gravy. The Spanikopia was excellent- who doesn’t love Greek spinach pie?


BACKROADS • JULY 2018 Some of us stayed basic with the traditional gyros, which was perfect, tasty and easy to handle (some get really messy!). John also offered a superb Lamb Osso Bucco. This delectable dish was worth the trip all by itself. Outstanding! It was Shad season and the river was full of the angry fish and fishermen trying to catch them this night. Shad is a hard fish to do well, but the Riverton does it better than most and the fried shad strips were crisp, crunchy and scrumptious – especially dipped in the Riverton’s home-made sauce. Greek Night was a lot of fun, but all of these International Meals on Wheels have been. A middle of the week excuse to go for a ride and a nice meal should be a part of everyone’s riding season. We will continue these each month and see where the motorcycles take us next. You are welcome by bike or by car – we’re easy and welcoming. You can find out about the next International Meals on Wheels by signing up for our weekly Backroads Report, a weekly email newsletter featuring motorcycle, travel, and industry news from around the globe. It is free and you can sign up for it at our website www.backroadsusa.com or you can keep tuned to our Facebook page. You will find the Riverton Hotel & Restaurant at 7758 Martins Creek Belvidere Hwy, Bangor, PA 18013. They can be reach at (610) 498-4241 or online at www.rivertonhotel.com. They also serve great breakfast and lunch.

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

THE 2018 AEROSTICH CATALOG The 2018 Aerostich Main Catalog is finally out, impressive as always, and is the largest Aerostich catalog ‘evva’ - with 308 pages of gear, products, sundries, devices, gizmos, books and cool stuff. Everyone that really rides needs to have this catalog on their coffee table or work bench. Yes, there are so many products to be found, yet they still had room for more questionable offerings… such as GlutenFree Chain Lube. How thoughtful Duluth is. If you need it, they probably have it. If you didn’t know you needed it till you saw it, well that works too. The book is fantastic in almost everyway with the possible exception of one unsavory model that appears now and again throughout the catalog. The 2018 Aerostich Catalog will cost you $10, but you will get that back on your first order, and you will order something. Log onto www.aerostich.com to order yours or download it if you like.


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JULY 2018 • BACKROADS

SPRING BREAK 2018 words and images: Brian Rathjen

I

Everywhere you go, you always take the weather, take the weather with you… Crowded House

t was almost beginning to feel like an emerging pattern; yet another ‘Big Trip’ starting off with storms of Biblical flair, this time being the day before leaving for our 20th Annual Spring Break Rally. I was doing errands around town on my bike. It was an oppressively hot and humid day for mid-May and the temperatures were into the low-90s with the same humidity. A warning chimed on my Garmin GPS….TORNADO WARNING. Hmmm? Never saw that one before. I was not long back in the barn, awaiting friends Kate and Kimberly to, hopefully, beat the storm charging east. They were charging west. The storm won and hell ran through the northeast region with straight line winds of 70 miles per hour, a number of tornados touching down in the region and large, damaging hail with wide spread power outages. As the storm headed east and out of our neck of the woods – some of those woods now on the floor – we heard from the ladies who were battered but okay, and about an hour or so later they rolled into Backroads Central soaked but smiling. Undeterred… Shira created a great meal served by candle light and sometime that evening the power came back on and we all made it an early night to get on the road come sun-up.


BACKROADS • JULY 2018

To Lancaster PA: Bonus Day #1

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This rally we added pre- and post- ‘Bonus Days,’ the first being a Wednesday overnight at the Cork Factory Hotel in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. Although most of us are okay with running into a bit of rain, starting off in a downpour is always less than fun.

Before we got into Lancaster itself we made time (sorry, pun intended) to stop and visit the National Watch and Clock Museum in Columbia. Incredibly fascinating. Look for a more detailed report in an upcoming edition. The industrial-chic boutique Cork Factory Hotel, set in a converted 19thcentury factory, worked well for our first night on the road, with on-site bar and restaurant as well as a brew pub within walking distance. Unfortunately we began getting notices from some who were put off by the predicted rains for

But our little troop motored on and danced through the mist most of the day in a mix of steady drizzle to hard driving downpours. Still, we had a great ride and even made time to stop for a second in Centerport where you will find ‘The Fork in the Road.’ Shira said we should take it… cause that was what Yogi Berra wanted.

the week and other things that life can throw at you. We were sorry some could not make it or chose not to get wet. But, unlike the Wicked Witch, most riders do not melt in the rain. Still those who did make this first night got right into the Backroads Rally spirit and it was a nice night all around – we even had a visit from his honor Rick Gray (Gail & Gary too), the one-time Mayor of Lancaster and a true rider.

The rain is falling through the mist of sorrow that surrounded me. The sun could never thaw away the bliss that lay around me. eric Clapton


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Lancaster to Staunton, Virginia Upon us all, upon us all a little rain must fall Just a little rain, oh… Led Zeppelin It rained through the night and Thursday came about with just a light mist blanketing the region. Much better than the previous day – it almost felt like liquid sunshine… well, that was what I told myself. Many folks got the early jump on the 300+ mile backroads ride into the commonwealth, but the previous day’s storms and fairly constant moisture had done a job on many roads with flooding, slippery conditions and some re-routing was in order a few times this day. We crossed into Maryland near Pretty Boy State Park and then south along roads that seemed to get wetter and more debris-laden by the mile. Heading over Cotoctin Mountain we came around one turn just seconds

JULY 2018 • BACKROADS after a large branch had fallen across the road. Never riders to turn back, we dragged it out of the way and continued onward. Onward, ever onward! The biggest Plan B of the day was the closure of our planned ferry crossing of the Potomac River on the White’s Ferry. The river was cresting and the ferry grounded, so we headed north and crossed at Point of Rocks and then vectored south back towards the route and found the perfect lunch in the town of Leesburg. Because we could we routed riders up and over Mount Weather – the FEMA site that is really a small underground town for the Federal Government when and if the kaka hits the fan. We featured it in our “Don’t Go There” series last year, and it would be the first of three such sites we would run riders by during this rally. With all the storms maybe we should have called this the ‘Don’t Go There Rally!’ Not far from Mount Weather were ran across some Virginia dinosaurs (who’d have thunk it?) and then continued our rainy tango down to the city of Staunton and the Stonewall Jackson Hotel. We love this town and, after parking and unpacking, I beat it to the Camera Heritage Museum which houses one of the largest and most complete camera collections in North America. As an avid image guy I was tickled to take the tour that I missed by minutes last October when we visited the town previously. By evening the hotel was full of Backroads’ ralliers and that night a number of things were offered including the Bruce Elder Classic Car Museum and, for those who wanted something truly different, a performance of Macbeth at the Blackfriars Playhouse – the world’s only recreation of Shakespeare’s indoor theatre. It might have well had been The Tempest. Verily twas the place to be and Macbeth got what was coming to him.

Staunton, Virginia to Floyd, Virginia Another rainy day, just a rainy, rainy day… Chicago This day started under cloudy but brightening skies and we had a most excellent route planned that was to head down picturesque rivers and valleys and, although the


BACKROADS • JULY 2018

light that was filtering down through the still rain-heavy mists made for a pretty image, the rains had done a number on the region and all through out the ride was standing puddles, gravel and debris. The best road of the day, by far, was Craig Creek Road; incredible in everyway and, with now dried out pavement, we enjoyed almost every mile of this amazing piece of pavement. It wound for miles through Virginia’s countryside and the Jefferson National Forest. Craig Creek would have been a Mary Poppins of a road, practically perfect in every way, if not for one thing. We came around one turn to see a bike down on the straight road ahead. How could this happen? Romulan deer de-cloaked and slammed into a rider. We knew we’d need an ambulance ride for the rider (broken left collar bone) and would have to deal with the smashed, but semi-rideable, bike as well.

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With first responders on the way I rode the bike to the next town and arranged for it to be towed to our friends at Frontline Eurosports in Salem, Virginia, about 20 miles away. That took a bit of time and when we returned we found a very upset Virginia State Trooper waiting, incensed that we moved the bike even an inch and had disturbed his accident scene. I got his point, but we did not even know there was a call to him (should have figured that when the ambulance was summoned). The short story is I rode back to the town and brought him to the bike so he could take down all the pertinent information. Most everyone had continued on the route and I told Shira to do the same, so I and two other riders, who had inexplicably followed the trooper and me into town, would have some catching up to do. Note: when confronted with this sort of situation, let ONE rider go and do not have a couple of bikes tuck in behind the trooper’s cruiser to help; you just get the LEO on high alert and angry for no reason. I then paid the price for all this with a fiery lecture (he was beyond upset


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JULY 2018 • BACKROADS

and actually shaking with annoyance) on how he was ‘this close’ to arresting me for obstruction of justice and disturbing an accident scene. The trooper was just doing his job, which we complicated greatly and we were technically at fault, so I respectfully listened and hoped he didn’t bring out the cuffs. Told we could go we did, stopping only to help a painted turtle cross the road – which I did more for my own decompression than anything else. We had a great bunch of twisty roads leading toward the Hotel Floyd, our home for the next few nights, and along with the great roads came the return of great rains, deep fogs and general all around crappiness. We ended the day safe, sound and more than a bit damp.

We had a number of suggested routes that were put together by our mascots Notso Happy and Pepe the Monkey and, as much as we hoped we had scoured them clean of dirt roads, the monkey’s routes had a good bit of gravel roads – which might have been fine under normal May conditions, but the National Weather Service had said the region had seen over a foot of rain in the last few days and what was once gravel was now something more technical to ride. Atop the Blue Ridge the fog brought visibility to less than zero. This was the adventure part of our Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure! Indeed, we watched Pepe’s ride unravel like a bad 5th inning for the New York Mets. All we could do was keep going and hope it would get better.

The local restaurants were hopping that night, as Floyd is a musical Mecca. There was a live band at the local brew pub, where pizza was the fare of the night. Fridays in Floyd will bring the Jamboree, usually outside the General Store but, due to the inclement weather, brought indoors to their stage. It was particularly fun with the Square Dancing and Flat Dancing and locals showing us all what a real Appalachian community is about. Many of our Backroads’ peeps got into the spirit, with Jeff C. staying until closing. Outstanding!

Most realized that the monkey was throwing poo and quickly made up Plans B, C & D. Around this time the sun began to peak out here and there and it was the first time I had seen my shadow in days. Let us say hallelujah brothers and sisters! Many riders headed south into North Carolina to the town of Mount Airy that was the birthplace and childhood home of Andy Griffith. Mayberry was based on this town. We spent some time at the Griffith Museum and then strolled the town that has become a bit of a touristy destination and is losing its Mayberry flavor as time goes by, but it still was fun to ramble, stop and listen to the music and find lunch at Barney’s. During all this a good number of determined riders took Mr. Happy’s Mother Fookin’ Loop Route and, other than one heavy downpour, had a most excellent time and bagged the famed Route 16 Back of the Dragon, which rides over a number of mountain passes. We vectored back up onto the Blue Ridge Parkway that was surprisingly clear of weekend traffic – mostly because of the weather – and the clear roads and sunshine made for a delightful ride north back into Virginia. We spent some time at Mabry Mill and then headed down the mountain

Free Day in Floyd Long as I remember the rain been coming down Clouds of myst’ry pouring confusion on the ground Good men through the ages, trying to find the sun; And I wonder, still I wonder, who’ll stop the rain Creedence Clearwater Revival We try to be eternally optimistic, but the constant rain and the unfortunate deer incident were beginning to grate at even our perky enthusiasm. We needed some sun and with the coming of morning the rain began to move on out, ever slowly, with the skies ever brightening.


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on The Crooked Road to Floyd. Other than wanting Pepe’s head on a pencil, most were good with the dirty days ride, but we think the now blue skies and sun had a lot to do with that. One of my favorite restaurants in these parts is the Pine Tavern and their incredible fried chicken, which worked well for

us that night. Most then killed off the rest of the evening strolling town, listening to the wonderful music and enjoying a now reborn Spring Break Rally. Thank you to all who stuck this out!

Floyd, Virginia to Mooresfield, West Virginia Sun is shinin’ in the sky, there ain’t a cloud in sight It’s stopped rainin’ everybody’s in a play And don’t you know It’s a beautiful new day, hey hey… electric Light Orchestra


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JULY 2018 • BACKROADS

ELO had this right and today was how all riding days should be and the ‘official’ route of the day was the creation of Mr. Happy, who lived up to his name as everything conspired to make this a fantabulous ride. Two hundred and seventy miles of swoops, sweepers, deep forests, rushing streams, open valleys and even a 200 foot waterfall at Falling Springs that was running at above full tilt after the foot and half of rain the past few days. With the sun blazing and temperatures warming we dodged butterflies, bees and bugs, running around swiftly moving snakes and rabbits and no less than a half dozen painted turtles continued happy lives due to the kindness of our riders. Stopping for lunch in Monterey, Virginia, the riders fueling both body and bikes were all smiles. As the long revered philosopher John Locke once said…“Winner, winner, chicken dinner!” they sang to Mr. Happy. Pepe sulked. As we rode through a region called Sugar Grove my Spidey-sense went off as we passed a long iron fence lined with boulders and barbed wire. I was not surprised to see the now ubiquitous US Government signs and I knew we had run across something good. Sugar Grove was an NSA Communications Site that intercepted all international communications coming into the United States’ east coast. It was surprisingly dark and empty for an active spook site and O’Life told me that it was recently auctioned off for purchase to an Alabama-based investment group, for 4 million dollars, with plans to convert the base into a healthcare facility for active-duty military, veterans, and their families. Right, and I have a bridge to sell you. By late afternoon we arrived in Moorefield, West Virginia, at the South Branch Hotel that is a very motorcyclefriendly place and has its own movie theater, Ponderosa restaurant and a bowling alley. Surrounded by some of the best riding in the east, the South Branch is an excellent home base and was perfect for us this night. It is also built next to the grounds of the Battle of Moorefield, a civil war cavalry battle that occurred on August 7th, 1864. A serious Union victory. 154 years later there would be another battle at the bowling lanes. We had put the word out months back and teams of four were ready to take on the lanes. Many had team shirts: That’s How We Roll, We Don’t Give a Split, The Flaming Balls, The Bowling Stones, The Purple Gang, Four Play, Team Ball Buster and The Slow Spokes were ready to go at it. Pizza and beer were the order of the night and the competition was hearty and fun, and nobody was there to win, just enjoy themselves. Camaraderie was at an all time high! People were even being nice to Pepe. Medals were handed out Olympic-style with That’s How We Roll the overall winner taking the gold, Ball Busters taking the silver and Four Play getting the bronze. The big high scoring trophy went to our own Mark Byers with a score of 172. In true athletic fashion I narrowly lost the low score to Alma…whew! Thank ya Lord, thank ya Jesus! We always try to mix things to do at our events and we think we did well this time around with William Shakespeare one night, square dancing the next and a bowling tournament following that – we will try to figure how we can top this. It will be tough.


BACKROADS • JULY 2018

To Fairfield, PA: Bonus Day #2 Ain’t it foggy outside, all the planes have been grounded - America Although the stars and planets were out when we went to bed the night before, the mountains were painted with a deep fog the next morning. Our ride was relatively short compared to the 300-mile days that were happening earlier in the tour, so we hoped, given a bit of time, the sun would burn off the murkiness. Not gonna happen. So off we went on a route that would take us up and over the mountains through Lost River State Park. We have been on this road a number of times and it is tight, twisty and a challenge on a sunny day – today it was a bit more challenging and the great scenery, well… that was hidden in the clouds. Some riders opted for the more direct route to Liberty Mountain, as it boasted some nice digs and an indoor pool. Undaunted our heroes carried on. Soon enough the sun won the battle and with blue skies above us we vectored along some stellar Virginia backroads - free of traffic and full of fun. Siler Road was magnificent. The route brought us in and out of the Virginias and then into Maryland and through Antietam’s battlefield before crossing the border with the Keystone State.

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Once again, per O’Life’s request, we ran our riders past another site from our ‘Don’t Go There’ series – this time the infamous Site R – Ravenrock. Here the mountain has been literally hollowed out for a small town that will hold a good deal of the Federal Government if needed. We are not welcome… and the long razor wire fence and U.S. Government signs basically reiterate this. Such fun our elected ones are, really. Ravenrock was just a few miles from our final hotel on this Spring Break, Liberty Mountain Resort. Kinda too swanky, great restaurants, huge pool and patio bar and massive gas fire pit made for a superb and relaxing last day on the road. Happy Birthday Ed – four Mets wins over the rally was a gift to you (& us)! Tomorrow most everyone would be heading home, another Spring Break – the 20th – in the books.

Fairfield, Pennsylvania to Home Here comes that rainy day feeling again And soon my tears they will be falling like rain - The Fortunes

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Page 38 Oya, the African Goddess of Rain, is a fickle gal. So the threat of some imminent downpours this final morning was not much of a surprise although it was still a bit deflating. Looking to beat the showers most took off very early and made use of our fine Interstate system to head back to where ever home would be found. We did the same and stopped only for a late breakfast at Thisilldous, in Belvidere, NJ (finest b-fast in the region) before the final charge up into Sussex County and Backroads Central, beating the hard rains by a good hour.

JULY 2018 • BACKROADS The accommodations and towns worked very well and Lisa’s video was an added welcome gift – although we were humbled and slightly embarrassed by it all. When it was all over, it seemed like we started it a long time ago – and it was just six days – but what an incredible six days. Shira and I want to say thank you to all who came; by car and Sprinter and especially by bike. Without you there would be none of this. We might put Backroads Magazine and these Rallies together, but it is all of you that make them the success they are. Thank you, gracias, arigato, spasibo, go raibh maith agat, toda raba. Weather or not, we hope we see you at one of our events in the future…

Final Thoughts… in·trep·id adjective: fearless; adventurous (often used for rhetorical or humorous effect) In 2003 we held a Spring Break in and around the same part of the United States and, at that time, we got pretty much rained on every day. This year was far more as rain and wet miles went. Many riders saw the forecast, watched The Weather Channel and various smart phone apps and bailed on this journey. But many more, especially after this beast of a winter, were not to be denied. The word intrepid comes to mind. They packed, fueled and zippered up and got going and even though we had some serious drizzle, we had even more serious fun. We had a mix of everything. We had rain. We had sun. We had fun. The roads of Pepe the Gravel King and the joyous routes of Mr. Happy made for an interesting combination and when you are told by ten different riders that the day’s route was the best they had ever ridden – well, you take notice and stick a feather in your helmet.

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BACKROADS • JULY 2018

Save a Turtle… Help a Species

Page 39 A small group of riders are motoring down a country lane, through forests and farmland and along many small ponds and occasional wider wetlands. Coming around one turn and into a short straight section the lead rider, who is diligent with his situational awareness, scans ahead and spots a small round rock in the middle of his lane. The rock is slowly moving. He raises his hand to signal he is slowing as he rolls off the throttle and smoothly applies the brakes. His four-way flashers are turned on and he comes to a stop a few feet from what is really a small Painted Turtle sluggishly making its way across the country lane. He and his friends dismount and walk over to the turtle – a female looking for a safe place to lay her cache of eggs. A car comes around the turn, a bit faster than it should, but slows to a stop when the driver sees the motorcyclist with hands raised for her to stop. She surely would have hit the turtle. But, not this time as the one rider carefully lifts the soon mother-to-be off the pavement and brings her safely across the roadway to the far side and into the grass – exactly where she was headed. Mitzvah done, the riders get back on their bikes, fire them up and continue onto Brian is holding a lunch, all with a little bit of Painted turtle, most warm and happy feeling that common in the northeast. they just did the right thing. And they did…. You mostly see turtles crossing roads between April and October. They do this for many reasons. In the spring, male turtles are looking for females and territory to call their own, while females are looking for places to nest. During the late summer and fall, hatchling turtles are dig-


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JULY 2018 • BACKROADS

Route 739 • Dingmans Ferry, PA • 570.828.1920

ging up from nests, looking for water and later on males and females are heading to places to hibernate. Sometimes they are migrating to a more suitable spot to live. At this time of year nothing can sway these breeding turtles from doing what they need to do, which is getting to their nesting place and laying some eggs. They will take great risks to get there, even crossing roads through busy traffic. For whatever reasons these turtles are traveling, The Wood turtle is found in eastern Canada and northeastern US. their destination can take them miles away from the Much less common than the Painted turtle. water they live in and, with the ever expanding suburbs and traffic, turtles must cross more roads. These turtles crossing the road in the spring are likely to be at least 6 years old. It takes 6-10 years for a Painted Turtle, the most common in the region, to be ready to lay eggs. At that age, she would be about the size of a small saucer (4” – 10”). While turtle shells are pretty darn tough, they are not tough enough to stand up to cars and trucks. On a Memorial Day bike ride, our friend Racheal found 3 recently killed turtles in the short distance between Deerfield Parade and the entrance to Pawtuckaway State Park in New Hampshire. The view from a bike was different than the view from a car or truck, and it was devastating. Turtles don’t lay very many eggs, and a lot of the eggs and hatchlings don’t survive, so every turtle that makes it to breeding age is critical. Every turtle crushed by a car decimates a generation of future turtles. Each female, egg bearing turtle, really counts. But, we motorcyclists can help! Here are some basic things we can do to help our turtle neighbors out during the 6 or so weeks of egg laying season, and for the rest of the year as well. Reduce your speed and be ever diligent when scanning while riding near ponds, lakes, wetlands and other high turtlecrossing areas. (There should be signs!) If you see a turtle crossing or about to cross a road, slow down and put on your flashers to alert other fellow riders and car drivers. Turtles don’t respond to honking your horn or flashing your lights so don’t even bother with that… they’re turtles, for Pete’s sake. If it is safe, pull over with your flashers on and help the turtle across the road. With most turtles, this is easy and safe – they really won’t bite. Snappers are a different story, but we’ll get to that. Here are some tips on moving a turtle… Never lift a turtle by the tail, which can damage its spinal cord. When you pick them up, the proper procedure is to scoop them up from underneath so that their shell and legs are sitting in your hand, nice and stable. Picking them up by their shell gives them lots of stress and anxiety. As their shell is an extension of their body, this Snapping turtle laying eggs would be similar to someone picking you up by your ribs. Keep the turtle low to the ground when moving them. Even small turtles have surprising strength. If a turtle pushes free of your grip, you do not want it to fall and injure itself.


BACKROADS • JULY 2018

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Snapping Turtles are a little different and can and will bite – seriously bite. How can you tell a Snapper from the more easy going Painted, Box and Wood turtles? Easy… they look, mean, pissed and prehistoric! Although some say smaller “Snappers” may be safely carried by the tips of their tails with outstretched arm and the bottom shell facing you, it is preferable to lift them. A towel over its head and pulled tight at the shell will help calm it down and prevent it from having the chance to bite you – which they sometimes will. If it is a big one, try to get it as far back as you can. They have long necks and are really friggin’ dinosaurs – so make sure to keep your hands and arms out of its reach. You sometimes can get them to bite a stick and then QUICKLY move the Snapper in the direction it was going and get it as far off the road as you can. Although you may be tempted to relocate a turtle, don’t. Many turtles have “Home Ranges”, a territory they call home, and when relocated, they will search out ways back. Besides risking many additional road crossings, some turtles, if they cannot find their way back will stop eating and just wander listlessly. Make sure to put the turtle in the direction it was heading, NEVER TURN THEM AROUND! The turtle is on a mission, and if you turn it around, it will simply go back across the road when you drive away and face the same situation. This might seem like a trivial thing, and we certainly never want to put ourselves or other riders at risk – so pick and choose your turtle rescues with a heap of common sense. There will be times that trying to stop to save a turtle can cause terribly bad situations. Be smart and be safe. But, if you do see a lonely turtle slowly making its way across the road take a moment and give it a helping hand – you’ll be glad you did. Backroads would like to thank Racheal Stuart, Kate Hartnett, Andrew McCurry and the Turtle Rescue League (www.turtlerescueleague.com ) for their help with this article.


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JULY 2018 • BACKROADS

Compact Imagery A look at Two and a Half Point & Shoot Cameras that get the job done

In 1826 the first photo ever taken was called View from the Window at Le Gras by French inventor Joseph Nicéphore Niépce and it is estimated only a few million pictures were taken in the 80 years before the first commercial camera was introduced. Things really took off in 1900 when the Kodak Brownie was released and photography became more widespread for the common folk. It cost $1. Today nearly 400 billion photos are taken each year – in fact every two minutes, we take more pictures than the whole of humanity in the entire 1800s.

Today everyone has a camera on their smart phone – yet still no clear shot of Bigfoot (naturally out of focus), Nessie or aliens. We use our iPhones all the time. They take phenomenal images, but are still a bit of work to use. Maybe instead of a phone with a camera, we need a camera with a phone? Regardless of how good phones are today for imagery, you can still see the difference between someone pointing a smartphone at something and a person that is composing and thinking a shot through. The Rule of Thirds always applies. We still prefer real cameras whenever we are on the road. Today’s Point & Shoots are compact, fit easily into a tank bag or pocket and are instantly available to capture the moment – and without the exasperating smartphone tapping, waiting for the app to open, holding the phone up… and generally annoying all those around you who might be involved with the image. Yup, give us a good Point & Shoot any day. But, life is not good for these handy image-makers these days. These cameras were all the rage before Sharp stuck a small camera into a phone at the turn of the century and people said,”Whuuut?” Then smart phones hit the market and things really exploded. Suddenly everyone was Richard Avedon or Ansel Adams. A decade later things aren’t looking good for the standalone Point-andShoot camera. As smartphone cameras continue to improve, compact camera sales continue to nosedive. A new historical sales chart with 2016 figures shows just how quickly point-and-shoots are dying off.

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BACKROADS • JULY 2018 In 2016, 98.4% of the consumer cameras sold were built into smartphones – only 0.8% were compacts, 0.5% DSLRs, and 0.2% mirrorless. But, even with the vanishing demand the major manufacturers, thankfully, are still making these small cameras better and better.

What We Use: We carry a number of cameras with us while on the road. A full-size Nikon SLR with three different lenses for the all-important trophy shots, our iPhones that, as I said, are phenomenal – but we still carry a number of small and compact Point & Shoot cameras – and really excellent P & S’s to boot.

Sony Cyber-Shot DSC-RX100 Perfection in the palm of your hand The first up is Shira’s Sony Cyber-Shot DSC-RX100. When we bought the first one we were looking for a professional quality P & S and again and again this camera came across our radar screen. It packs a Carl Zeiss 28-100mm equivalent F1.8-4.9 stabilized lens, featuring Zeiss T coating to minimize internal reflection. The rest of its specification is pretty impressive too - a 1.2 million dot 3.0” LCD (VGA resolution but using Sony’s WhiteMagic technology to offer greater brightness or improved battery life), and 1080p60 video capture or 1080i with the ability to shoot a 17MP stills without interrupting movie recording. The camera can even boast a respectable 330 shots from a charge and we have never killed the battery – even on the busiest and longest days. The Sony’s 1”-type sensor is twice as large as the sensor on the closest competition – but all this comes with a hefty price of $600 dollars.

Page 43 This is not the Point & Shoot you pick up for $99 at Walmart. We have one of those too – one that if things go wrong it’s okay but we’ll get to that in a bit. The Sony Cyber-Shot DSC-RX100 takes exquisite images and, with 20 mega-pixels going on, there is very little we cannot do with these images in Backroads. We particularly love the way we can manipulate the depth of field and the sharpness from edge to edge of this camera. It is an amazing piece of equipment. But, don’t drop it. We did that and that is why we now have a second DSC-RX100 – one that will be handled in the fashion it needs to be. Still, the images are stupendous and that is what this is all about, right?

Nikon Coolpix W300 Even with the iPhone, a backup “sacrificial” camera we carry and the Big Boy Nikon we felt the need for another compact P & S. But, past experience showed us we had a number of features and requirements that had to be met. This P & S had to be rugged, easy to use with gloved hands, waterproof and dust resistant and, most importantly, had to shoot stellar images in all sorts of conditions. In the end the choice was between the Olympus Tough TG-5 and the Nikon Coolpix W300. They were very similar in many ways and price – with the Olympus being able to shoot RAW and the Nikon packing 16.5 mega-pixels


Page 44 – four more than the Olympus. We chose the Nikon. As we said the Nikon W300 comes with a 16.5 mega-pixels sensor along with 4K/30p video recording. It has a good-size 3” LCD screen and an ample 24-120mm equivalent optical zoom. Nikon claims wireless connectivity via Snapbridge. We’re calling BS on this – as even the Vulcans cannot get this to work and they actually got emotional about it. It has more scene modes than we knew existed and the automatic mode is quick and a smarter photographer than any of us. Like the Sony, the depth of field is a joy to work with and the macro and food images – well they look good enough to eat. Unlike the Sony that came in black – the Nikon was available in a bright orange front panel – making it that much easier to find in a dark tank bag and the buttons are big enough that I can easily operate it with my riding gloves on. Excellent. Perfect. We’ll take it. Pay the man. For the $400 we paid for the Nikon Coolpix W300 we couldn’t be happier. The all-weather W300 is freeze-proof to -10° C / 14° F and waterproof down to minus 100 feet, which is perfect for Backroads Rallies. It is also dustproof and shockproof from a height of 8 feet; but we hope not to test this. All these cameras need to be treated gingerly – but things happen always. That is why we carry the inexpensive sacrificial lamb.

Nikon Coolpix S630 Ready to take one for the team When new this camera cost $99 – you can find this camera used for half that these days. Note that it doesn’t have to be this particular brand or model – any P & S from a major player in the imagery business will have what you want. It is just one of a few that we have purchased that stay in the tank bag - so that I always have a camera and, if a gravity storm approaches and the camera gets wrecked, I will not need months of therapy as I did after the Sony hit the ground. Those off the side of the tank shots that we use way too much? They are shot by these cameras. Over the years we have gone through a number of these, but only one of these burners has actually been dropped – most going to the dustbin from lens damage from road debris and miles of abuse. There is the additional fact that both Nikons share the same battery, which makes life easier. Having a smartphone is great, but keeping a good Point & Shoot camera with you is always a good thing… as you will never know when a UFO will land in front of you and Bigfoot and Nessie will step out of it.

JULY 2018 • BACKROADS

2018 KAWASAKI Z900RS CAFÉ KAWASAKI ADDS CAFÉ STYLING TO THE RETRO LINEUP The all-new Kawasaki Z900RS Café motorcycle, produced in limited quantities for 2018, adds a classic front fairing, stepped seat, and black low rise handlebars to the nostalgic Z900RS adding another inspired design to Kawasaki’s retro style line of motorcycles. In building the Z900RS Café motorcycle, Kawasaki has crafted one of the most authentic retro-styled machines in appearance and design, paying homage to an era of motorcycles that shaped the Kawasaki brand. The Z900RS Café takes styling cues from iconic Kawasaki models including the Kawasaki Z1-R, Eddie Lawson Replica KZ1000R, and GPz models, all while tastefully incorporating modern technology and features Developed for riders in search of a well-rounded bike that is not only rich in history and character, but also packed with modern technology and handling. The Z900RS Café is powered by a 948cc in-line four engine, features a modern trellis frame, and modern suspension components that bring an unmatched level of performance. By blending the sleek sweeping contours of the Z900RS with Kawasaki’s classic cafe racer styling and class-leading performance technology, Kawasaki has yet again created another truly authentic motorcycle. The Z900RS Café received the same meticulous attention to detail in its construction as its predecessors did, from the Z1 inspired teardrop gas tank to the simple uncluttered engine design, all the way down to the sporty vintage inspired fairing and tail section The newest addition to the Z900RS lineup, the Z900RS v, is packed with technologically advanced components and features, including the 41 mm inverted front forks, assist and slipper clutch, Kawasaki TRaction Control (KTRC), and a fully tuned exhaust note. New features appear as well including a brushed stainless steel exhaust system, black low-rise handlebars, stepped seat, fairing, and new engine case covers. The Z900RS Café is available in Vintage Lime Green and lists for $11,499. If it only came in Root Beer and Orange we’d be at the showroom today!


BACKROADS • JULY 2018

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Fourth of July Anytown, USA We have been trying to make the most of the last few Independence Days. For some it is just a convenient holiday to mark the summer, but for others the day has deeper meaning. We have delved into the deeper meanings of this day, so last year – after hearing the reading of the Declaration at the town square in Newton - we buzzed home, tending to our garden a bit before taking another ride for an afternoon of all-American fun in the town of Blairstown, New Jersey. Held at their footbridge Park, right on Route 94, it was a great combination of good old fashioned fun, pie-eating contests, water-balloon tosses, dozens of vendors (including the fantastic images of Paulinskill River Photography), a water-dunk tank, frog race, sack race and pie bake-off; you know, everything you would think to have at a town’s celebration of our independence some 241 years back. Yes, we did get involved with the no hands pie eating contest – doing very poorly but still showing spirit. The highlight of this afternoon would be the Duck Race down the slowly moving Paulinskill River (let’s spell that with capitals - SLOWLY). This was not the Indy 500. 1,500 rubber ducks rocketed to the narrow finish with cash prizes being awarded and raising money for the local Rotary chapter – always a good thing. With festivities at the park over and dessert of pie and ice cream eaten, we scooted back home, waiting for the sun to start setting, and then rode over to the Sky-


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JULY 2018 • BACKROADS land’s Park – home to the Sussex County Miners baseball team. They’d win that day and the celebration continued as they painted the sky with an impressive fire works display. From our vantage on Augusta Hill we could see that not only were the Miners shooting off great works, but it seemed the entire sky of northwest New Jersey was as well. This isn’t unique to where we call home, but happens all over the United States on this day every year. Find out what is happening in your region and make it a point to go out and celebrate the 4th of July American-Style – it is the patriotic things to do. Here are just a very few. Check the web for 2018 times. http://revolutionarynj.org Morristown, nJ: Reading of the Declaration Morristown Green, Park, Place Bound Brook, nJ: Fourth of July Patriotic Exercises Camp Middlebrook, 1761 Middlebrook Rd, Bound Brook shrewbury, nJ: Independence Day Celebrations at the Allen House, 400 Sycamore Ave, Shrewbury, NJ new Brunswick, nJ: Reading of the Declaration Christ Church Cemetery, 5 Paterson St, New Brunswick, NJ dighton, Ma: Candlelight re-reading of the Declaration of Independence, Dighton Community Church 2056 Elm St, Dighton, MA easton, Pa: Heritage Day Celebration. July 8, 2018 All-day festivities on the square in Easton, PA heritageday.org/

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BACKROADS • JULY 2018

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS 3 +1 • BOOKS TO READ, ENJOY AND RELY ON Many of our book spotlights are done during the winter months – but a good, informative and fun read is a staple of life all year round, especially when it has to do with Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure. We’re calling this 3 + 1: Three excellent and fun books and a plus one that really should be read, studied and digested.

MOTORCYCLE CAMPERS A TO Z • DALE CONYER Our friend Dale Conyer, author of The Essential Guide to Motorcycle Travel, has come out with a book aimed toward those with larger touring machines that wish to bring a trailer along with them. When riders attach these rolling campers and trailers to their machines there is much to take into consideration and this book was written to make this rolling accessory as safe and easy as possible. Dale is an avid motorcycle traveler, author and camper, so Motorcycle Campers A to Z makes this option far easier than if you went at it alone. It can not only save you frustration and money, but could also save yourself. If you are thinking camper or trailer make Motorcycle Campers A to Z your first investment. $24.95 from openroadoutfitters.com.

MOTORCYCLES SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS • JACK RIEPE The sequel to ‘Conversations with a Motorcycle’ is everything you would expect from Jack Riepe. His style is a rare and fresh commodity in these days of the same old same old from so many. Wait…maybe Jack’s style is the same old same old? But it’s Riepe’s same old same old – and he’s hysterical, biting and witty. As with the first book, Jack’s tête-à-tête with his bike continues and, if possible, with an even sharper and cutting edge. We were not disappointed! If you have ever read Jack’s monthly column in the BMW ON magazine, then you know what to expect. Like the first book ‘Motorcycles Speak Louder than Words’ is a winner and a great read when you are not on your motorcycle - but wish you were. $20 from jackriepe.com.

FORD MODEL T COAST TO COAST • TIM COTTER Technically this is not a motorcycle read, but it is travel & adventure - and author Tom Cotter and photographer Michael Alan take off on the Lincoln Highway to cross the nation in the first mass produced car for the real people – a Ford Model T. Along the way they find an America that many believe has disappeared, but is still there if you search it out.


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JULY 2018 • BACKROADS We loved this book and the clear, clean and easy to read way it was put together. Reading this made us want to start packing and getting out on the backroads ourselves. But, who says you need a motorcycle to have fun? Cotter and Alan show us all you need is wheels, an engine and the desire to see what is out there along the byways of the United States. $35 from www.quartoknows.com/Motorbooks

Our plus 1…. CORNERING CONFIDENCE • JON DELVECCHIO If the other books were here to inform, entertain and make you smile – this book - Cornering Confidence - is here to make you a better rider. We can all be better riders. The subtitle is “The formula for 100% Control in the Curves” and who does not want that? Jon has been running his Street Skills course for years and his book picks up on many things he has developed over this time and many things from other great riders, authors and coaches that this book passes on as well. It is all good. The book is laid out in an interesting and fun way and Jon doesn’t overwhelm you with words, but keeps his information more streamlined, with plenty of pictures, diagrams and images to help get his important points across. His style makes for easy digestion and learning. We love rider training books like this, as they always make us think the next time we are out. Nobody is as good a rider as she or he can be. We have a sign in the Backroads office that says CANI - Constant and Never-Ending Improvement. This goes doubly for our riding. The more you work on your skills the better they will become and know that skills are perishable and must be constantly worked on. Cornering Confidence is yet another brilliant color on the palette of your motorcycle skills and riding and, in our humble opinion, is a must read. $29 from streetskills.net.

GUGLATECH FUEL & AIR FILTERS If there is a cutting edge product out in Motorcycle Adventureland David Petersen and BestRest Products will probably find it first. Such is the case with their GUGLAtech Fuel and Air Filters. GUGLAtech is an Italian company dedicated to making the world’s finest fuel and air filters. The BestRest staff tested these filters under actual field conditions and they were so impressed that BestRest became the North American distributor for GUGLAtech’s product line.

guglatech Fuel Filters These filters will keep out any water, moisture, grit or debris that may find its way into your fuel tank from a questionable fuel source – whether it be a kid on the side of the road in Argentina selling fuel out of a 55-gallon drum or a chain fuel station in middle America. Bad gas can happen anywhere and when it does, well, it’s bad. GUGLAtech Fuel Filters will save you the worry and hassle of finding yourself stuck on the side of the road with fuel issues. Some filters are simply drop-in affairs, while other bikes will need a bit of effort to install. We highly recommend you watch BestRest’s video on their website to witness just how excellent the GUGLAtech Fuel Filters really are. We know we will be running these into the future.

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BACKROADS • JULY 2018

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guglatech air Filters Filter your air with a re-usable GUGLAtech air filter that meetS or exceedS OEM air filter specs. The filter has a 30-40 micron fabric mesh, which cleans the air without restricting airflow and the dry, not oiled, mesh is reinforced by a wire screen. This means the filter can be cleaned with compressed air and soapy water, with no damage to the filter and that means you can use it over and over again. This is the last air filter you’ll ever need for your bike. The Guglatech Filters have applications to fit most BMWs, KTMs, Ducatis, Yamahas, Kawasakis, Hondas, Suzukis, dirt bikes with plastic gas tanks, and others, running from approximately $70 on up and a worthy investment. To see if BestRest Products has a filter for your machine log onto bestrestproducts.com.

MS. HAPPY ENTERS THE SCENE After all these years with thousands of Mr. Happys roaming the planet, there is finally a female International Puppet of Mystery. Ms. Happy. Perhaps you are a female that thought that little misogynistic puppet (well, we know Notso Happy is) was not your cup of tea but wanted in on the little yellow puppet thing or a male rider looking for a bit of feminine buddyship on the road. Now you have a choice: Mr. Happy or the new Ms. Happy. Either one is just $9.00 from the folks at Aerostich. Check them both out at www.aerostich.com.

IXS TOUR GLOVE ST-PLUS EVERYTHING UNDER CONTROL A good glove is a matter of trust. It should protect the hands and at the same time provide a good grip for the acceleration and clutch handle. The Tour Glove ST-Plus by iXS is a glove that satisfies both requirements. It’s wind- and watertight, but also extremely breathable. This means that it reliably protects the hand from cooling too much. This is made possible by the newly developed solto-TEX® PLUS membrane. The innovative bonding of the individual layers prevents the waterproof membrane and inner lining from moving around. A small detail with a practical effect: the index finger tip is fitted with a touchscreen-compatible material so that the navigation system or your mobile phone can also be operated when wearing gloves. The inner leather glove is reinforced with false edges made of Clarino. A shatter-proof TPU shaped piece covered in leather protects the knuckles. The fingers are also protected by reinforced leather. Finger stretch and cuffs that can be adjusted in width with a Velcro fastener ensure the necessary fit. Retailing for $120.00 and available in sizes X-3XL in black. Find them at your local IXS dealer or visit ixs.com

Pinstriping by Kerry Buckley Internationally Acclaimed Custom Artist

By Appointment • 732-448-9668 2018 Rally Schedule: July 7 • Tramontin Harley-Davidson, Hope, NJ July 8 • H-D of Ocean County, Lakewood, NJ July 26-28 • NE Gold Wing RR Rally, Southbury, CT Aug. 11 • Tramontin Harley-Davidson, Hope, NJ

Find us on Facebook - Kerry Buckley www.facebook.com/kerry.buckley.5209 Visit our website - kandmsigns.com See us in Monmouth Junction, NJ


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JULY 2018 • BACKROADS was provided by falling water and water rights were the key to that power. Drop and flow were the two things that determined how much power you had. While neither the drop nor the flow at this site were not exceptional, it was enough to power a gristmill. Elisha enlarged the existing gristmill and built a mill pond and a 1400-foot canal to provide more drop and thus, more power to the mill. By closing off the water in the evening and letting the pond fill, there was enough water to run the mill during the day. This worked well and the mill expanded to include a woodworking shop. In addition to grinding grain, the shop produced wooden products of the day including wagons and wagon wheels, tool handles, caskets and whip butts. In 1919, the water wheel was replaced with a new state-of-the-art cast iron vertical axis water turbine to provide power. Electricity arrived a decade later and that state-of-the-art turbine was quickly abandoned in favor of electric power. Since the mill was already configured to run off a central power source, a single 20 horsepower motor replaced the turbine and operated the existing belt driven equipment. However, with the arrival of electricity, water rights lost much of their value and business at the mill suffered.

Grist Mill

During a Summer Squeeze rally in Vermont I led a group of riders to the town where I grew up. Two centuries ago my great-great-great grandfather operated a gristmill in the small town of Chesterfield, Massachusetts. Chesterfield is a rural town in the Berkshire hills and even now, the population barely cracks 1000. The neighborhood where I grew up and learned to ride my first motorcycle has changed some. The saw mill has closed along with my Dad’s hardware store and my uncle’s dairy farm. The big old building we simply called “the shop” is still there but now it’s on the National Register of Historic Places and houses the Bisbee Mill Museum. It was 1819 when Elisha Bisbee bought the water rights on a small stream in a small valley west of the Connecticut River. Back then, industrial power

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BACKROADS • JULY 2018

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The gristmill ceased operation around the time of electrification while the woodworking shop continued making specialty molding and tool handles before closing for good in 1960. For the next 30 years the building was used for storage. In 1990, the it was donated to the town historical society and refurbished as an agricultural museum. The gristmill was put back into operation and much of the belt-drive power system was rebuilt. Instead of water power or that 20 horsepower motor, the mill was configured to run off a 7 horsepower hit-and-miss “one lunger” engine. Today, the mill is open to the public monthly during the summer.

veyed up through the ceiling where it dumps down a chute into a hole in the center of the grindstones. The “runner” stone turns while the “bed” stone remains stationary. The gap between the stones can be adjusted to change the coarseness of the corn meal. Crushed corn meal drops out around the circumference of the millstones.

Tool Table

Water Turbine When visiting the museum, you enter on the ground floor, stepping back in time. The first thing you see is the 1919 cast iron water turbine sitting in its original location. The canal feeding it has been partially filled in so the turbine sits in a mostly dry stone lined water tub. Around to the left is the main drive system. There are multiple line shafts with different sized pulleys to produce different speeds for the equipment that used to be upstairs. The wooden pulleys range in size up to four feet in diameter. Over to the other side of the turbine, you can climb a set of stairs to the main floor of the museum. At the top of the steps is the grindstone. When it’s running, corn is con-

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The rest of the main floor is an agricultural museum dedicated to farming and local trades. There are some hand crank pieces of equipment for winnowing grain; separating the wheat from the chaff. There is also a hand cranked corn shucker that removes the kernels of corn from the cob. Along the back wall of the mill is a collection of horse drawn plows. In the back corner of the museum is a horse drawn hearse. My grandfather and my uncle were undertakers and ran the Bisbee Funeral Home until the mid 1980s. There is also a casket on display that was made here at the mill.

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JULY 2018 • BACKROADS

Hearse and Coffin

Drive Wheels

In the 1800s, maple syrup was used as a general purpose sweetener and many farmers in this area made maple syrup. (my brother and I still do). Holes were drilled into maple trees in the spring and wooden spouts were pounded into the holes. A wooden bucket hung beneath the tap. Sap was collected and boiled down into maple syrup and maple sugar over a wood fire. Some wooden buckets, made here at the mill, are on display as well as a couple of wooden sap tanks. There is also a small machine for turning the wooden spouts. It is designed to run off a flat belt drive and was very likely used here at the mill. Against another wall is an exhibit from the Bisbee’s Post Office. Around the turn of the 20th century, a US Post Office operated out of my great grandfather’s home and the sign and delivery boxes are on display. Warren Brisbois was a local butcher and many of his tools are on display. His son Jim and his wife Kathy (my cousin) along with their grandchildren Shannon and Jeremy, and Jeremy’s family, are the volunteers who keep the museum operating. Up on the third floor of the museum is a small blacksmith shop. I’m not sure who thought putting forging equipment on the third floor of a wooden building was a good idea. The blacksmith shop may have produced the metal rims for wagon wheels but judging by its size and location, was mainly used to build and repair metal work around the mill. The other half of the upper floor is a woodworking shop. Here, a drill press and lathe are still connected to the belt drive system two stories One-Lunger


BACKROADS • JULY 2018 below. Equipment used to make wagon wheels is on display as well. The hubs were turned on the lathe and then drilled to accept the spokes. The hubs were then set into a fixture and the spokes were added. Another machine was used to shape the outer wooden hoop. After all the pieces are assembled, a metal ring from the blacksmith shop was heated and slipped over the whole assemble to provide strength and durability. Before leaving, I ventured out back Blacksmith Shop where the one-lunger sat, chuffing away running the gristmill. It’s a 1929 Hercules engine rated at 7-horse power at 825 rpm. It produces these 7 horsepower with around 1950ccs of engine displacement. My motorcycle, which benefits from an extra 86 years of development, produces around 100 hp from 800 ccs. In another 86 years though, I bet the one-lunger has a better chance of still running. The museum is staffed by volunteers and is usually open one Sunday a month during the summer. Check their Facebook page for updates: www.facebook.com/Bisbee-Mill-Museum104995059549051 • www.bisbeemillmuseum.org

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Page 53

Rip & Ride® • Bisbee Mill Museum 66 East St, Chesterfield, MA Start: The Kitzhof Inn or Gray Ghost Inn Route 100, West Dover, VT

ROUTE 100 SOUTH TO JACKSONVILLE, VT ROUTE 112 SOUTH TO GOSHEN, MA ROUTE 9 EAST RIGHT ON SOUTH MAIN ST. RIGHT ON S. CHESTERFIELD RD LEFT ON SUGAR HILL RD RIGHT ON MAIN RD (ROUTE 143) LEFT ON BISBEE RD RIGHT ON EAST ST. MUSEUM ON THE RIGHT


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JULY 2018 • BACKROADS

Rip & Ride® • THE PENGUIN CAFÉ 38 WEST ST, WALTON, NY 13856 • 607-510-4173 • FIND THEM ON FACEBOOK • HOURS: EVERYDAY 11AM-8PM SERVING FOOD AND ICE CREAM CREATIONS

GPS DOWNLOAD: WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/PRO/DL/YHBFU8 Directions Distance Left onto Mail Rd from Catskills Mountain Resort 211 Mail Rd, Barryville, NY Turn right onto Hwy 97 2.1 mi Turn left onto Delaware Dr over river 4.0 mi Turn right onto Scenic Dr 0.2 mi Turn right onto Hwy 590 0.6 mi Turn right onto Masthope Plank Rd 0.1 mi Turn right onto Masthope Plank Rd 2.8 mi Turn right onto Welcome Lake Rd 6.7 mi Turn right onto Peggy Runway Rd 3.9 mi 1.1 mi Turn right Beach Lake Hwy/Rte. 652 Turn left onto River Rd 0.7 mi Turn left onto Milanville Rd 5.4 mi Turn right onto River Rd 0.2 mi Turn left onto Cochecton Tpke/Rte. 371 2.8 mi Turn right onto Galilee Rd 0.4 mi Immediate right onto Conklin Hill Rd 258 ft

Total

2.1 mi 6.1 mi 6.3 mi 6.9 mi 7.0 mi 9.8 mi 16.5 mi 20.5 mi 21.7 mi 22.4 mi 27.8 mi 28.0 mi 30.8 mi 31.2 mi 31.2 mi

NOW ACCEPTED FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS NEW • GIFT • RENEWAL SAFE • SECURE • CONVENIENT

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Directions Turn left onto Steiner Rd Turn left onto Callicoon Rd Turn right onto Hancock Hwy/Rte. 191 Turn right onto Grocery Hill Rd Bear left onto Old Union Rd Turn right onto Lordville Rd Turn left onto Bouchouxville Rd Turn right onto Lordville Rd Turn left onto Hwy 97 Turn left onto E Front St/Rte. 268 Turn right onto Read St Turn left onto E Main St/Rte. 97 Turn right onto Sands Creek Rd Turn right onto Hwy 10 Turn right onto Delaware St/Rte. 206 Turn left onto West St Arrive at The Penguin Cafe

Distance 3.0 mi 3.6 mi 3.1 mi 6.7 mi 0.2 mi 0.3 mi 0.9 mi 110 ft 2.9 mi 4.8 mi 0.2 mi 267 ft 0.8 mi 9.5 mi 18.3 mi 494 ft 0.2 mi

Total 34.2 mi 37.8 mi 40.9 mi 47.6 mi 47.8 mi 48.1 mi 49.0 mi 49.1 mi 52.0 mi 56.8 mi 57.0 mi 57.0 mi 57.8 mi 67.3 mi 85.6 mi 85.7 mi 85.8 mi

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BACKROADS • JULY 2018

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JULY 2018 • BACKROADS

UP C OM I N G E VE NT S CAL END AR EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTING Every Tuesday • Two Wheeled Tuesday at Spiegel Restaurant • 26 1st Avenue, NYC. An eclectic gathering of motorcycles served with multi-cuisine meals. Kick some tires, have some couscous, enjoy the crowd • www.spiegelnyc.com • 212-228-2894 Every Tuesday • Bike Night @ The ear Inn, 326 Spring St, NYC Every Thursday • Bike Night at the Chatterbox Drive-In, Rtes. 15/206, Augusta, NJ. Tire kicking, good food and friends • wwwchatterboxdrivein.com Every Saturday thru October • Bergen County H-D Saddle Up Saturday. 9am for coffee and bagels. Ride departs 10am. Returns to dealership for FRee music and food. Proper attire MUST be worn! BCHD, 124 essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 First Sunday of the Month thru Sept. • Hudson Valley Motorcycles Caffeine and Gasoline. Meet friends and like-minded riders over coffee, tea and a bite before heading out for a great Sunday ride. HVMC provides a nice location for various rides to Upstate NY, Connecticut or Bear Mountain. Showroom will be open. • 179 N Highland Ave/Rte. 9, Ossining, NY • 914-762-2722 • HVMotorcycles.com

JUNE 2018 24 • The 3rd Annual Vintage Motorcycle Classic, presented by Indian Motorcycle of Springfield will immediately follow the Vintage Motorsports Festival. This event will include a track event on the 1.7 mile road course, swap meet, antique motorcycle show, and vendor area. Thompson Motor Speedway, 205 e Thompson Rd, Thompson CT. 860-923-2280 • thompsonspeedway.com

What’s Happening plimentary food (bustin’ out the smoker) to enjoy while taking advantage of Flash Sales. 540-387-9780 • www.frontlineeurosports.com • 1003 electric Rd, Salem, VA. 12-15 • BMW MOA International Rally, Des Moines, IA • for more details and registration online: bmwmoaf.regfox.com/2018bmwmoarally 14-15 • 42nd Annual Running of the Ramapo 500. Sign in: Veterans Memorial Assoc., 66 Lake Rd east, Congers, NY. endsite: Appalachian RV Campground, Shartlesville, PA. Overnight camping included in registration fee: Pre-reg $45 • Day of $60 cash only. Incl. route, Sat. dinner, awards and prizes, Sun. breakfast, starter pin and finisher patch. GPS upload available for extra fee. ramapomc.org 19 • Hanover Powersports KTM Factory Demo event. 10am-3pm. Make plans to take the day off and ride any or all 2018 KTM Street Bikes. Free food and drink 11am-1pm. Specials, discounts and offers • 210 Rte. 10 West, east Hanover, NJ • 973-428-1735 • HanoverPowersports.com • Find Us on Facebook 28 • 21st Annual Kids & Cancer Benefit Motorcycle Run. Sign in: Zippo-Case South Parking Lot, Congress St, Bradford, PA 9-11:45am. $20/pp or 3 raffle tickets for $50. Cruise through the beautiful mountains of scenic northern PA, the Allegheny Natioinal Forest and southern NYS. Proceeds benefit individuals and kids and cancer programs. For more details: www.kidsandcancerbenefiterun.com • 814-368-2764

AUGUST 2018 16 • Frontline eurosports Thursday Rider’s Night with Late Until eight hours and complimentary food (bustin’ out the smoker) to enjoy while taking advantage of Flash Sales. 540-387-9780 • www.frontlineeurosports.com • 1003 electric Rd, Salem, VA

30 • Gourmet Gallery 2nd Annual Pig Roast. All You Can eat from 5pm until it’s Gone. Live Music, Vendors, Prizes and More. $30 in advance/$35/Day of/Under 6 pig out for free. Vegetarian, Vegan and Gluten Free available. enjoy a ride to Warren County and Pig Out in quaint downtown Blairstown. 31 Main St • 908-362-0051. Find Us on FB.

25 • Valley View Tavern sponsors Ride to Give to benefit Deerfield Valley Food Pantry. Sign in/endsite: 131 Route 100, West Dover, VT • 9am Ride / 1pm Party. More info: 802-464-9422

30 • Jersey Shore AMCA’s Old Fashioned Antique Motorcycle Swap Meet at Village of Allaire, 4265 Atlantic Ave, Farmingdale, NJ. 9am-4pm. For vendor or more information contact Tom Logan 732-458-2150 • www.jsamca.com

29-Sept. 3 • 115th Anniversary Harley-Davidson Celebration, Milwaukee, WI • www.harley-davidson.com/us/en/milwaukee-115th.html

28-Sept. 1 • 40th Wing Ding, Knoxville, TN • https://wing-ding.org/

JULY 2018

SEPTEMBER 2018

8-11 • Backroads Summer Squeeze, West Dover, VT. Spend a little mid-week fun on the roads of Vermont with the Backroads Gang. We’ll be spread between the Gray Ghost Inn (800-745-3615), Kitzhof Inn (800-388-8310) and Big Bears Lodge (800-3885591), all located on Route 100. Check our Rally webpage (backroadsusa.com/rallies.html) or Facebook for updates • 973-948-4176

13 • Frontline eurosports Thursday Rider’s Night with Late Until eight hours and complimentary food (bustin’ out the smoker) to enjoy while taking advantage of Flash Sales. 540-387-9780 • www.frontlineeurosports.com • 1003 electric Rd, Salem, VA.

12 • Frontline eurosports Thursday Rider’s Night with Late Until eight hours and com-

20-24 • 20TH ANNIVERSARY BACKROADS FALL FIESTA. The endless Mountain excursion. Scranton, PA, Altoona, PA and Jim Thorpe, PA will be our homes for four days of PA's twisties, histories and mysteries. Details: www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html

20th Annual

Fall Fiesta 2018

Endless Mountain Excursion • Sept. 20-24 book early - rooms are limited

Thursday, September 20 Radisson Lackawanna Station Hotel

Fri-Sat, September 21 + 22 Altoona Grand Hotel

Sunday, September 23 Inn at Jim Thorpe

700 Lackawanna Ave, Scranton, PA 570-342-8300 • www.radisson.com/scranton $104 + tax (Backroads Group discount)

1 Sheraton Drive, Altoona, PA 814-946-1631 • altoonagrandhotel.com $119 + tax (Backroads Group discount)

24 Broadway, Jim Thorpe, PA 800-329-2599 • innjt.com $98-$148 + tax (Backroads Group discount)

Originally a French Renaissance-style train station in 1908, the Lackawanna Station has been completely renovated while keeping its history and artistic flair. Get here early and visit the Steamtown National Historic Site, Houdini Museum or just stroll downtown Scranton.

A great two-night stop, complete with indoor pool and fitness center. Saturday you can visit Punxsutawney Phil and ride through the Allegheny Forest, head to Horseshoe Curve and take the funicular or the 194 steps to the overlook, or simply enjoy the beautiful curves and sights this part of Pennsylvania has to offer.

Built in 1849, the Inn at Jim Thorpe is a perfect stop for our last night on the road. Within steps of the front door, there are shops, dining, live music and historic sites to fill your evening. If you arrive early, visit the Old Jail Museum with its eerie dungeon cells and mysterious hand print.




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