Backroads January 2019

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W H A T ’ S

I N S I D E

MO NT HLY C O L U M NS

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Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................3 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................4

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE.......................5

Contributors

Mark Byers, Kimi Ceridon, Pamela Collins, Bill Heald, Dr. Seymour O’Life

ON THE MARK ....................................................6 BACKLASH..........................................................8

Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, NJ 07822

INDUSTRY INFOBITES.......................................9 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE ............................11 BIG CITY GETAWAY .........................................12 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ..............14

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MYSTERIOUS AMERICA..................................16 WE’RE OUTTA HERE ........................................18 INSIDE SCOOP .................................................24 UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ...................39

FE AT U RE S RESTLESS HEART............................................17 BEST OF BACKROADS 2018 ...........................20 NEW MACHINES FOR 2019.............................29 SOLO ON THE BLUE HIGHWAY ......................32

PR O DU C T R E V IE W S KLIM ALTITUDE AND LATITUDE GEAR .........26

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2019. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2019

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJeN

The Odd COuple On November 13, Felix Unger was asked to remove himself from his place of residence; that request came from his wife. Deep down, he knew she was right, but he also knew that some day he would return to her. With nowhere else to go, he appeared at the home of his friend, Oscar Madison. Several years earlier, Madison’s wife had thrown HIM out, requesting that HE never return. Can two divorced men share an apartment without driving each other crazy? Unlike some of the national magazines that have a large stable of media loaner bikes coming in and out on a constant basis, we tend to keep it low key here in northwest New Jersey; this and the fact that we are in northwest New Jersey, when most of the media machines are in southern California. But, on occasion, we have a few test machines here at Backroads Central at the same time. Recently we had two that seem to have the same mission in common but go about that end game in far different ways; one machine being a bit fastidious and precise in its goal and the other having an easy going and common man way about it. Much like Felix Unger and Oscar Madison - The Odd Couple. Individually they both look stellar - together a bit of an odd couple. There are a lot of machines out there and, unlike many machines of the past, most of these machines are specifically manufactured to sell to a certain segment of the consumer market. Cruiser, sport, adventure and so on.

Page 3 Most times these markets, at which these machines are aimed, are victims of misplaced perception. Look at one segment of the riding population – the Adventure Rider. As columnist Byers states in his monthly On the Mark, “The ADV Culture is flogged by the manufacturers and the media alike.” Mark’s correct, but the same is true of every segment of the rider demographic. Everybody… let’s get niched! Or, not. I, for one, am guilty of this as well and though I know that my R1200 GS or KLR 650 will not be heading down to Ushuaia, Argentina anytime soon I like the idea that they at least look the part. I am not fooling myself, but I do like to fool the neighbors – it keeps them on their toes and ups my neighborhood “street cred.” When I was a young lad, growing up in New York City, we all listened to WABC radio. On this AM blowtorch they played music. All kinds of music! It was not uncommon to hear the Beatles and then the Allman Brothers, right into the Temptations and have the set finish off with the 1910 Fruitgum Company. (I know I pulled that one outta my butt!) Everybody heard everybody else’s music. Today if I want to hear black urban music (the Temps) I need to jump to the black urban music station. If I feel a bit cowboy and want to listen I need to find the country channel to hear today’s version of Ramblin’ Man. I am not sure where I would find today’s 1910 FGC – but I am sure Miley lives on some station as well. This ramble is not just a veiled attempt to fill the 700+ words I need for this column but actually has a point. Once motorcycles were a lot like music and everyone enjoyed and respected everybody else’s ride. Now both music and motorcycles seem splintered and almost confrontational at times. Sad really, we could learn a lot by taking a look back and have our own “instant replay” of sorts. Continued on Page 7


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JANUARY 2019 • BACKROADS

WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL

ReaCTiOn and STaTe Of Mind It was a sunny morning in late November, actually pretty nice, with the temperature in the mid40s, and I was driving from bucolic northwest New Jersey to the overcrowded suburbia that is Bergen County. I had been making this trip frequently recently, helping my mom move from her home for the past 20 years to a more social setting. Today I had Brian along for company to assist with the heavy lifting. Somewhere around Hackensack, I noticed a small yellow spider making its way across the top of the front window. Traffic on Route 80 was not too crazy, and I could periodically glance at its progress across the vast expanse of glass. I mentioned to Brian that there was a spider in the car. ‘Inside or out?’ he asked. ‘Definitely inside,’ I said. Now, I’m not thrilled about spiders; they don’t completely freak me out, and I know that most are just going about their spidery business with no illintent meant towards me, but I really don’t like to be trapped in the same enclosure with them for any period of time. I saw that this little yellow fellow had disappeared somewhere. I thought to myself, ‘Okay, he’s found a hiding place, I’m good with that.’ But a few miles later, I spied, with my little eye, eentsy teensy crawling along the dash.

‘Brian, the spider’s back and making its way towards you.’ ‘Wait, I’ll get it and put it out the window,’ he gallantly offered. ‘No, it’s okay, I think it’ll be alright until we get there.’ We were about two minutes from our destination, slowing for a red light, when I felt something on my left hand. That little yellow bastard had the gall to drop down and scare the beejesus out of me. Like any girly-girl reaction, I let out a scream, lifting my hands and feet in the air and… rolled into the nice Volvo stopped in front of me, while Brian strongly suggested that I STEP ON THE BRAKE. After taking his strong suggestion, I popped out of the car to see what I had done. For some inexplicable reason, I began rubbing my hand over the spot on the Volvo’s bumper, as if to smooth out any damage that may have been. The female driver of the Volvo said, ‘I’d like to see, if you don’t mind.’ I looked at her quizzically and started babbling about the spider and how it had startled me and how sorry I was and, and, and… She just looked at the non-damaged bumper, shook her head and got back in her car. I kept a good distance from her for the remainder of the few miles to my destination. On the last fairly decent Sunday in November for a nice ride, Brian and I set out to do our ‘no particular place to go for a couple of hours’ loop. Normally when it’s just the two of us, Brian takes point but today he decided to follow the leader. I, of the tribe who wandered the desert for 40 days and nights, took off in a completely different direction to explore the wilds of the Walpack Valley. Remember, it’s the end of November, our area had already had a bit of snow and lots of rain, and even though this day was mild, we had seen freezing temps. The Walpack Valley, on a good day, is almost like an off-road course. Dodging the shadows to avoid any potential black ice, we explored the potholes and debris-scattered tarmac (partially, at least) of this truly beautiful area. There they were: four or five Forest Romulans, or deer to those who don’t read these pages on a constant basis, appearing out of nowhere to my left and scampering in front of me. Due to the scarred surface of the road, we were doing a very modest pace and I reacted accordingly, slowly applying both brakes and letting these little fu…critters go on their way. I heard Brian in my helmet, ‘Oh no!’ As he was a good distance behind me, there was no issue with his slowing as well. No panic on my part, not even a quickened heartbeat…yet. We both reached over to flick on our Hornet Deer Alerts – hindsight is always 20/20. About a mile or so later, I realized my adrenaline had kicked in, just for a minute or so. It’s amazing how a potentially disastrous event can be handled without a blink of an eye. I thought to the braking exercises we’d done not a month ago at Virginia International Raceway with CLASS. Being alert and constantly scanning your riding environment is so key. Reaction to a surprise situation, and the way the brain processes it, is a funny thing. That little harmless spider caused more angst than a herd of deer that could have ended a perfectly lovely day.


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2019

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BILL HeALD

QuaRTeR Of a hunneRd YeaRS “Where did you go to, if I may ask?’ said Thorin to Gandalf as they rode along. To look ahead,’ said he. And what brought you back in the nick of time?’ Looking behind,’ said he.” -J.R.R. Tolkien There’s been something in the wind about the start of a 25th year of something. Hmmm. Many consider the 25th of something to be a landmark; a point set in time where you can look back and reflect in order to help guide you in the present. Whenever such landmarks appear, I have been known on occasion to go back in time the number of years in question just to see what the heck was going on during Year One. The results are often inconclusive (or even bizarre), and yet always of use in terms of understanding where I am today. Given the current landmark of this publication, I decided to head back to the year 1994 in an effort to find out what I was doing when the presses were firing up, and discovered what a year of transition that was. It started in Brooklyn, NY, and we decided to abandon our apartment in Cobble Hill (back when it was less Brooklyn Heights than it is now) and rent a place in the state of Nutmeggery for a try at a more rural existence. This of course meant moving a couple of motorcycles w/o a pickup or trailer in the dead of winter to the new place, and here’s where I do indeed have some interesting memories. I learned a very valuable lesson on this little moving enterprise, for I managed

Page 5 to move the bikes (one at a time of course. Two at once would have been pretty amazing) safely even though the path was perilous. For whatever reason, the route I took on the trip had me over some of the most diverse pavement surfaces I’ve ever encountered for such a short jaunt, and it was so educational that I actually remember the trip well all these years later. At this point I had been riding and touring for over a decade, so I thought I was pretty experienced on all manner of pavements the traveler might encounter. But I was riding to my new home in two stages on two different bikes, with different types of tires, and one I had been riding less than 6 months so I was not yet fully familiar with all its moods on tricky road surfaces. Lessons were waiting, although I didn’t know it. Naturally I opted to take a more rural route rather than adhere to the interstate system, and as you who ride the roads of New England know all too well there are endless small towns and municipalities that do the bulk of their local road maintenance on their own, often using well-worn equipment purchased at State auctions. For some odd reason a huge number of communities all decided to share with the passing motorcyclist their latest road projects right when I took my trip, a situation made all the more bizarre by the time of year it was (early March). But there were a lot of potholes, unexpected strips of sunken tarmac (where pipes were laid), cracked and broken surface textures and my all time favorite, scored pavement. To this day I remember the unexpected feel of the new bike’s front tire over the foul surface and how it had a shimmy quite unlike any other bike in my experience. The wider front hoop handled the situation far better than my other machine, which due to its narrower front tire tended to hunt across the grooves and on occasion try to go railroad on me. The way of dealing with this on any motorcycle is to allow the bars to move around a bit, but have enough grip in place to keep yourself on track. This is a grand strategy, but in the real world when you Continued on Page 7


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JANUARY 2019 • BACKROADS

ON THE MARK MARK BYeRS

The dRaweR Everybody has one, perhaps more than one. It might be in the kitchen or a workbench, but everybody has a drawer into which they put things that don’t fit elsewhere. The contents thereof are as varied as people themselves and chances are the contents are all but forgotten, except in rare circumstances. I have several such physical drawers in my abode and it would be easy to choose the one in the workbench as the subject of this column, but the drawer of which I speak here is a mental rather than a physical one. In aviation, we have a concept called “compartmentalization” whose premise is to provide a mental drawer into which we can put intrusive thoughts so that we can concentrate on the task at hand, flying or other things associated with the safe conduct of testing an airplane. Compartmentalization teaches us to place outside influences aside so that we can focus all our attention on system operation, air traffic, flying technique, communication, and other crucial aspects of the job. If we have a significant ongoing life event – an argument with a spouse or a problem with a mortgage company – that has us upset, we are supposed to place that problem in a figurative drawer, close it, and not bring it out again until the flight is over. Simply put, “Don’t bring your personal problems to work” and the converse “Don’t bring your work problems home.” Both are wise adages; however, they are not easy to follow and I challenge anyone to have a day in which nothing of their personal life intrudes into their work. You forcibly have to cut off such thoughts as they arise, saying to yourself “I’m not opening that drawer right now,” but it’s hard just knowing the drawer exists. Like much in aviation, there is a strong parallel to motorcycling. It’s unwise to go on a ride when there’s something seriously wrong at home or

work. Intrusive thoughts cause us to make riding errors unless we put them in the drawer. Some people do this unknowingly: they go on a ride to “clear their heads,” but what they are actually doing is being forced to place their issues in the drawer out of self-preservation. The urgency of the thoughts required to ride displaces the negative thoughts and we feel refreshed. The risk is having something happen before the problems get displaced to the drawer. I have seen and experienced this on the track and the road: it’s easy to let intrusive thoughts adversely affect our performance, especially for a mistake we just made. I’ve seen people err in a corner and have to pull off immediately because the potential consequences overwhelm them. The impact ranges from poor performance in the next set of turns to conservatism through the rest of the ride. People like Valentino Rossi can make a big mistake in one corner and be back to 100 percent focus by the next because they’ve put it in the drawer so quickly. Through practice, I’ve become pretty good at compartmentalization, but it’s work. If we drawer a mistake, however, we have to remember to open that drawer soon thereafter to analyze the mistake so we don’t make it again. Racers like Rossi do it in real time, but most of us need some time to go over the situation, come to conclusions, and speak to ourselves about the solution(s). Some people, and I tend to be one of them, dwell on the situation later, going over it in their heads incessantly until it begins to adversely affect them well after the event. This is where the drawer is important again: once you have learned the lesson from the mistake, you have to forgive yourself and PUT IT BACK IN THE DRAWER. You can take it out again to discuss with a mentor, but if you start losing sleep, into the drawer it must go. No matter who you are, you need a drawer. As a motorcyclist, you need a drawer into which you can put those broken vice-grips of domestic quarrels or that rusty hammer of a poor corner-entry you just made until such time as you can mend them or polish them back into proper working order. You can’t be afraid to open that drawer when the time comes, lest you become a clueless, road-going zombie, but you also need to learn, forgive, and put stuff back in the drawer too. And, of course, as your mother said, you should always wear clean drawers. You never know what might happen.


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2019

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fRee wheelin’ Continued from Page 3 Just the other day I was out riding Felix. Coming towards me on a small backroad were a clowder of bikes. As they got closer I could see a fine looking mix of machines. A Gold Wing, a few crusiers, a nice new R1 sport bike followed by a not so nice new sport bike. A full dress Harley backed up by the new KTM and behind them two guys on very old machines of questionable DNA. They all waved, I waved back. It was heartening to see… all these riders just out for a ride.

These days, as bikes pass by BRC which is on one of the prime pieces of riding tarmac in Jersey, I can tell the groups from their sound. Sport machines all have that same tone, unless there is that wonderful Ducati baritone in their midst. Harleys sound alike, though the decibel level varies with different groups. Some riders come by in silence, like hushed two-wheeled phantoms along the road. They all have their own tune. But this kennel of riders I rode past this day had a most wonderful sound - it was like a motorized symphony. No odd couples here and refreshing to see.

pOSTCaRdS fROM The hedge Continued from Page 5 have all kinds of variations, debris, and sloppy work you have to feel your way along in order to stay the course. I have also noticed when you encounter such stretches of road it is often accompanied by drivers that can likewise be freaked out by non-standard pavement and drive even more erratically than usual. All these things confronted me when riding my new red machine, and joined forces with the fact that my mind was racing about the move and the dramatic change in lifestyle to load up the stress circuitry. This trip also meant I was leaving one vocation for another, although I didn’t realize it at the time. All these distractions made for a potentially hazardous situation, and I can still remember the miles rolling by on that trip 24 years later and a few weird

close calls. But I didn’t dump the shiny new V4 and scar it or myself up, and the lessons I learned on this journey (the second phase with my older bike was not without incident but safe) on riding discipline on lunar topography have somehow endured. I handle the dreaded scored pavement much more comfortably thanks to the experience gleaned from this non-epic journey, and it has stuck with me, what, nearly a quarter of a century later. The change of lifestyle that made the trip necessary was a leap of faith, and it worked out OK, too. Imagine that. Seeing today’s road is oh so much clearer after seeing yesterday’s, and clearly Gandalf knows a thing or two about the hazards one encounters on the road, yeah? Here’s to 25 more.

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BACKLASH Mark, Just read your last highly informative article in October’s issue of On the Mark. I used to teach MSF at the Tidewater Community College. I quit when they changed from 12 to 24 students and streamlined the course. More students, less time to teach, basically shoving them out the door with a loaded gun and hoping they didn’t look down the barrel when pulling the trigger. Had a female student that refused to turn her head and look in the direction she was supposed to go. She failed the course, thankfully I thought. I heard from one of the salesman at the Harley shop she bought a new Harley and ran into a car in the parking lot as she tried to drive it home. They all ran over to her and her first words were, (get ready) “I didn’t turn my head, did I? Larry told me I need to turn my head when I turn.” I was sick when I heard that and promptly quit teaching. I did not want someone’s death on my conscience because we could not, did not, have the time to correctly teach them how to ride and survive. It was not all bad. I met a former student and he told me about a close call he had and all he heard was my voice in his head telling him what to do to get out of the potential disaster. That was nice. We used to ride with a group and for some reason I was always picked to lead the ride. If there was a new rider in the group I would stick them behind me in the second position. “THEY” would set the pace until I was comfort-

JANUARY 2019 • BACKROADS

Letters to the Editor able with their skills. There was some bitching at times and I would tell them to go on, Susie and I will stay with xxx and catch up. There was one new woman rider; on our first stop I asked her how she was doing and she said she loved the way I was going. She felt very comfortable and was enjoying the ride and that the pace was just right for her. Little did she know she was setting the pace. You are absolutely right in that there is a big dangerous gap between school and where we are. There are not enough of us (you and me) that take this so serious and want to help the new riders. Since I have the MSF sheepskin on my wall I have helped several people transition from school to ‘this is the real world’. I start in a parking lot to see what I am working with then out to some quiet low traffic BACKROADS. Take care, larry Cain Backroads, Loved the Icelandic saga! No mention of the price of beer or wine with dinner. Or are you teetotalers? RE: Postcards - The OEMs quit putting centerstands on many stock bikes because they realized they could sell them as an expensive option. Clem Salvadori Brian and Shira, Just wanted to say hi and thanks for the Fire and Ice copy of your magazine. That was very thoughtful. What a great trip! Happy Holidays to both of you and hope to see you on another ride. Let me know if your travels bring you up to the Appalachians. We have a place in Roan Mountain, TN. Great riding. Love to have you. david gurley Brian and Shira, I sure enjoyed reading about your trip to Iceland (Fire & Ice, December, 2018). It reminded me of my own trip to Iceland during June 4 years ago, as we visited many of the same sites and locations, although my trip was not a motorcycle tour and we didn’t go on many unpaved roads. I sure wish that I had known about the motorcycle museum in Akureyi, as I spent 2 nights there in a hotel that was just a block or so beyond the church at the top of tall stairs. Like you, we did a whale watch from Husavik, and visited many of the same waterfalls, geysers and glaciers. Iceland struck me then as the most other-worldly place I have ever been, as many of the landscapes were so extraordinary that they could have been on another planet. I saw a few motorcyclists out and about during my trip, but generally I was glad to be riding in a nice warm bus. Particularly, on one day near Vik on the south coast when it was raining and only about 45°, I saw a group of motorcyclists go by and I was glad that I was not among them, as riding in cold, wet weather is not my thing. But I am sure that you guys had all the proper gear for such conditions and are used to it. I myself am more like one of those Sunday motorcycle riders that you mentioned. I was so inspired by learning about the Vikings in Iceland that I decided that I wanted to go to Norway to see where the Vikings came from. I finally fulfilled that ambition this fall, when I spent a week in Norway and got to visit the Viking Ship Museum in Oslo and another Viking museum up in the Lofoten Islands that features a recreated Viking longhouse. Keep up the good work. Best regards, dave Owen


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2019

IN DU STRY INFOBITES KAWASAKI SUPPORTS MC TECHNICIANS Kawasaki Motors Corp., U.S.A., announces its support of Motorcycle Mechanics Institute (MMI) education efforts that will include a donation of 36 Kawasaki products, including motorcycles, ATVs, side x sides, and personal watercraft. The equivalent retail value reaches a total of more than $300,000 and utilizes Kawasaki’s wide-range lineup with Ninja®, Z family, Versys®, Vulcan®, KX™, and KLX® motorcycles, Brute Force® ATVs, Mule™ sideby-sides, and Jet Ski® personal watercraft models. “The MMI is a fundamental part of our industry,” said Bill Jenkins, Senior VP Sales and Operations. “The industry-leading technical training educates and guides future professionals of our industry and feeds our dealers with qualified technicians.” Kawasaki’s efforts are designed to support MMI’s technical training programs that prepare its graduates for future technician positions and careers at Kawasaki dealerships across the nation. After completing MMI’s core program, students take elective courses that help to familiarize them with specific product lines and maintenance procedures, ensuring professional-level service.

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News from the Inside “For nearly three decades, Kawasaki has trusted MMI to train the skilled technicians who maintain and service their products across the nation,” said Roger Speer, Campus President, MMI Phoenix and Orlando. “This latest contribution of vehicles gives our students the opportunity to train on the very latest Kawasaki products, so they graduate from MMI ready to hit the ground running.” “We’re thrilled to give the MMI and future technicians the best education on Kawasaki models,” said Patrick Kelly, Director Customer and Technical Support. “These 36 Kawasaki models will add to the curriculum and continue the successful K-Tech Specialist Program.”

DIRTDAZE KEEPS GETTING BETTER AND DIRTIER In three short years, the DirtDaze Adventure Bike Rally has become one of the largest adventure events in the U.S. In 2019, it will move to a new, larger venue, happening later in the riding season. The northeast rally will continue to offer extensive guided and unguided rides, demo rides, rider training, and camping/lodging.

The DirtDaze Adventure Bike Rally is a fun, adventurous and educational multi-day festival for dual-sport and adventure motorcycles. The event offers on-site demos and vendors, world-class rider training, dual sport rides to far off destinations with lunch, fun night time activities, riding games, and contests. dirtdazerally.com Continued on Next Page


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JANUARY 2019 • BACKROADS

ODD MOTORCYCLE FACTOIDS… Suzuki originally began making weaving looms for Japan’s silk industry in the early part of the 1900s. Company founder Michio Suzuki wanted to diversify his company and began an engineering firm that started making small cars and engines during the 1930s. The first Suzuki motorcycle appeared in 1952 and was a motorized bicycle called a Power Free. It had a two-stroke 36cc engine that featured a double-sprocket gear system for the rider to either pedal with engine assistance, pedal without the engine, or simply disconnect the pedals and use the engine. Today, along with motorcycles, Suzuki makes cars, marine engines, wheelchairs and is Japan’s second largest manufacturer of small cars and trucks.

Yamaha Beginnings In 1887, Yamaha started as a piano manufacturer, but today is a multinational conglomerate that still produces musical instruments. They have added boats, car engines, swimming pools, industrial robots, wheelchairs, RVs, electronics, and golf carts, and motorcycles.

STaR TRek BikeS The sound made by the “motorcycle” that Chris Pine rides to the shuttle departing to Starfleet Academy in the film Star Trek is the same sound used on The Jetsons from 1962 for the “cars” they fly.

EPA TO INCREASE ETHANOL IN GAS - THUMBS DOWN FROM AMA The American Motorcyclist Association objects to the announcement that the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency has raised the amount of ethanol to be blended into vehicle fuel next year by 630 million gallons. The 2019 renewable volume obligations announced by the EPA call for 19.92 billion gallons of ethanol to be blended into the nation’s vehicle fuel supply in 2019, up from the 19.88 billion gallons proposed in June. The agency required 19.29 billion gallons of ethanol in American fuel during 2018. All of the proposed increase is in advanced biofuels – ethanol made from non-food sources – and ethanol from cellulosic biofuels, while the amount of ethanol derived mainly from corn remains flat at 15 billion gallons. “By forcing more ethanol into our fuel supply, year after year, the EPA is increasing the risk for motorcycle owners, all-terrain vehicle riders and others whose vehicles are not equipped to use fuels containing more than 10 percent ethanol,” said Wayne Allard, AMA vice president of government relations. “Higher ethanol mandates, coupled with proposals to sell E15 fuel year-round, will begin to push ethanol-free and E10 fuel out of the marketplace, much in the way E10 has marginalized E0, the fuel required for older and vintage machines.” None of the estimated 22 million motorcycles and ATVs currently in use are approved by the EPA to use fuels containing more than 10 percent ethanol by volume. Studies show that most consumers shop for fuel by price, rather than ethanol content. And blends contain larger amounts of ethanol by volume typically cost less at the pump than E0 or E10. It is illegal to use fuel containing more than 10 percent ethanol in motorcycles and ATVs, and ethanol can damage fuel systems and engine components and may void a manufacturer’s warranty. The AMA recommends using the fuel specified in the vehicle owner’s manual and urges riders to be extra cautious when selecting fuel at the pump. The AMA also supports the passage of legislation to reform the federal Renewable Fuel Standard to better reflect the needs of motorcyclists and to protect their access to safe fuel. For more information, visit www.americanmotorcyclist.com.


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2019

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Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival fOuR STageS An education theory first appeared in ’69, when Martin Broadwell put forth the “Four Stages of Teaching.” It was further developed in the 70’s and repackaged as “Four Stages of Competence,” where it remains and is taught in business courses. What follows is my adaptation of it to the art of motorcycling. Stage One: unconscious incompetence In this stage, a rider is incompetent, but owing to a lack of knowledge and experience, they don’t know it. The saying “They don’t know what they don’t know” applies. Some people exist in this stage for years or even for life (however short that may be). People mired in this stage look at crashes as just unavoidable instances of bad luck. In my twenties, I’d been riding dual-sport bikes for years, transitioned to the road, and figured I knew how to ride. It wasn’t until I was required to take the MSF Experienced Rider Course that I awakened to the fact that I wasn’t quite the paragon of riding know-how I thought I was and I entered the next stage. Stage Two: Conscious incompetence This stage is the most vital, because reaching it means you have the ability to recognize your shortcomings, conquer your ego, and seek help: you realize you don’t know it all and you actively try to get better. Being here is a victory - GETTING here is hard. Most people simply refuse to acknowledge shortcomings, sign up for training, or even ask for an honest assessment of their skills. Telling someone his riding isn’t up to par is beyond riding buddies, because that conversation leads to resentment. Among men, telling someone his riding skills are less than stellar is tantamount to saying he has a sexual inadequacy. Personally, I find working with women, whether it is in shooting or motorcycling or any other skill-based activity, much more rewarding as I don’t have to fight through an ego wall to get them to accept instruction. The valuable thing about this stage is that it is the source of every advancement. Think of entering Stage Two as a software upgrade and do it on a regular basis. It’s important to recognize riding as a perishable skill and a period of riding inactivity can take the edge off your game. Maybe you just had a

near miss. Perhaps you got a new bike and it handles differently, so maybe a day of track or on-road instruction is in order to “take it to the next level,” which is… Stage Three: Conscious Competence In this stage, you have knowledge and skill, but it takes conscious effort to use them. After 43 years of riding, I still find myself thinking about what I’m doing. I have inner conversations, telling myself things or berating myself for a mistake, saying “Well, THAT downshift sucked” or “Why are you covering the clutch and not the brake: are you gonna outclutch a deer?” I tend to give myself reminders, especially on the track: “Weight that inside peg” and “keep your arms loose and squeeze the tank on braking” (for some reason, those reminders are in an English accent). The voice you hear loudest and most frequently is your inner voice, and he should be talking to you periodically while you ride. Mine likes the Socratic method, asking questions like “What can you do from this lane position that you can’t do from over there?” The questioning method comes from a mentor, a former police motor officer, and I tend to hear those questions in his voice. He is largely in… Stage four: unconscious Competence This is the Holy Grail: you do the right things intuitively, without having to think or be directed by your inner voice. You’ve practiced proper techniques and good habits until they are second nature. A combination of muscle memory and wisdom allows you to concentrate on other tasks because riding no longer requires the level of conscious effort it used to. Even for as long as I have ridden, I don’t exist solely in this stage: I drift in and out depending on circumstances. There might be a handful of people on the planet who exist here, but I’ll bet they probably go back to Stage Two occasionally and talk themselves through Stage Three on the way back to Four. Those people got where they are by being lifelong learners. When my young protégé got her motorcycle license (as I mentioned in my monthly column) I told her what flight instructors have been telling newlyminted pilots for decades: “That’s a license to learn.” So ask yourselves, cowboys and cowgirls, what stage are YOU on? ~ Mark Byers


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Frontline Eurosports Presents

B IG CITY GETAWAY naTiOnal waTCh & ClOCk MuSeuM 514 pOplaR STReeT, COluMBia, pa 17512 717-684-8261 • nawCC.ORg

Time keeps on slippin’, slippin’, slippin’ into the future Fly Like an Eagle – Steve Miller We have a friend, Norm Smith (is he not everybody’s friend) and, in his house, he has an unimaginable number of clocks – all precisely set. It is wonderful during the night when they all go off simultaneously. Yes… simply wonderful. But, through Norm we have come to appreciate clocks and for that matter, time itself. But what is time? According to the experts – ‘it is indefinite continued progress of existence and events in the past, present, and future regarded as a whole.’ We like to think of it as just now. In Columbia, Pennsylvania there is a place dedicated to the keeping of the enigma of time and how it has been done throughout the ages… Welcome to the National Watch & Clock Museum. Here it is all about Horology - the study and measurement of time. The museum opened back in 1977 with fewer than 1,000 items. Since that

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind time, the collection has increased to over 12,000 items. In fact the National Watch & Clock Museum is the largest collection of timepieces in the United States. The building itself is impressive with its own clock tower and walking through the museum is, literally, like walking through time as many of the exhibits are in chronological order taking you on a tour through the entire history of timekeeping technology from early non-mechanical devices to today’s atomic and radiocontrolled clocks. Time, being a universal constant, is shown here in a universal way with a grand collection of timepieces from around the globe and covers a wide variety of clocks, watches, tools, and other time-related items. The largest collection is of nineteenth-century American clocks and watches. However, additional collections include early English tall case clocks, Asian timepieces from Japan and China, and timekeeping devices from Germany, France, the Netherlands, and Russia. The tour starts with the basics - Maps of Time - with the sun revolving around the Earth (365.241 days) and the moon around the Earth (29.53 days). Ancient megaliths like Stonehenge and the search for an accurate way to measure longitude can be found – John Harrison is prominently mentioned, as he should be, as he was the man who invented the marine chronometer, a longsought-after device for solving the problem of calculating longitude while at sea. Along the way there is the most serious collection of Grandfather and Tall Clocks and a display of Clock Making Coming to America. If you are a lover of the classic pocket watch then you will surely be happy – the museum’s collections is stunning in every way. Impressive too is the wrist watch collection featuring famous watches from modern times – Elvis’ watch from his famed Army image, James Bond


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2019 watches and others from popular culture. But, without a doubt, the most amazing timepiece in a museum full of amazing artifact is the Engle Clock - called the 8th Wonder of the World. The Engle Clock is what is called a Monumental Clock and the first created in the United States. At one time the very, very wealthy would have these built –well, just because they could. It was a status symbol of sorts. The clock was made entirely by clock designer Stephen Engle, of Pennsylvania, and it took Engle 20 years to complete the construction of this clock, which was finished in 1878.

This clock toured throughout the United States, charging 15–25 cents to view it. It continued to tour along the eastern parts of the U.S. for nearly 70 years before mysteriously disappearing in 1951. It was discovered in a Connecticut barn and, after years of negotiation and a settlement that will not be disclosed, it was brought to the National Watch & Clock Museum where it was slowly and carefully refurbished. This is a big clock, measuring 11 feet high, 8 feet

Page 13 wide and 3 feet deep and contains three towers. Among its mechanical features are two organ movements, a new type of tellurian (patented by Engle) that illustrates the positions of the stars, moon and constellations and 48 moving figures. Forty-eight. Jesus and the Apostles are part of the clock, as are the three Ages of Man - where Engle placed an image of himself representing ‘middle ages,’ his signature of the clock’s maker. On the hour, a skeleton representing Death strikes a bone against a skull attached to the column of the clock. At 15, 30, and 45 minutes past the hour, Father Time strikes a bell with a scythe and turns his sandglass while the central figures of Youth, Middle, and Old Age revolve in the arch above the clock dial. At 40 minutes past the hour (no one knows why), a group of revolutionary soldiers appear from the clock while a barrel organ plays “patriotic tunes.” At 55 minutes past the hour, the three Marys come out of the center tower as a procession of the Apostles takes place accompanied by hymns. It is incredibly amazing to see and the Engle Clock is one of the most amazing man-made creations we have ever come across. The entire National Watch & Clock Museum is most remarkable and well worth stopping in while riding the Amish region of Pennsylvania. Don’t you think it is about time?


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G REAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN

tasty places to take your bike

fezz’S dineR 9 iCe Mine Rd, COudeRSpORT, pa 16915 814-274-3399 • www.faCeBOOk.COM/fezzSdineR The Grand Highway of the Republic, also called U.S. Route 6, stretches from the end of Cape Cod all the way to Bishop, California. A true Mother Road. As it runs through Pennsylvania it winds along the Endless Mountains and makes for a pleasurable and almost calming motorcycle journey. Just outside the small town of Coudersport – near the soon to be famous Ice Cave - you will find something else grand; an old-style Silk City Diner built in Paterson, New Jersey back in the day (1954 was BITD) that was hauled from its previous location in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania to its present spot about 30 years back. These days you have to pay attention as you ride along Route 6 to find it, as it is set back about a block off the highway to the left as you head west, but it is well worth the search. The diner still has the classic look to it, but there now is a large dining room built into the back. This back room is all done up with American memorabilia and adds to the classic feel that the original Silk City Diner offers up front.

We took a seat up in the original, which we thought the proper thing to do for a Great All American Diner Run. Like many diners across the nation, Fezz’s is embracing the classic Americana motif – playing on iconic names and places from post World War America. Their burgers, which were thick, juicy and perfectly cooked, take their names accordingly. The Big Bopper - a hearty bacon cheeseburger, The Cowboy and a few named after great American cities like Philly and Buffalo made as you would think they would be as is the Italian. If your heart is in well enough shape and there are no cardiac issues you’ll maybe go for the ‘Nightmare Burger - a beef hamburger with sausage patties, bacon, ham, cheddar AND American cheese… CLEAR! If you like consolidation try the Pocket Burger – loose meat, fries, shredded cheese and BBQ sauce all stuffed into a shell. Okay, then. Shira spied a Bacon Blue Burger and it was her burger du jour. A super choice and really well prepared, we might add.


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Looking around at what others in the diner ordered I spied an order of chicken wings – which Fezz’s will serve you mild, Cajun, bbq, hot, garlic parm or teriyaki. They serve up regular sandwiches as well – a BLT, egg, tuna or chicken salad grilled cheese and turkey club – which is usually my “go to” choice as I like being Shira’s Mr. Predictable. Their sandwich made the club! The salads looked excellent as well and you have a choice of the Chef, grilled or Buffalo chicken and a really delicious looking steak salad. All of these can be had at full or half servings.

Page 15 Before my turkey club arrived a scoffed down a cup of the BEST cream of mushroom soup I have ever had. Most of the nation’s mushroom crop come from caves in this state and here at Fezz’s, unlike other diners that maybe pass a mushroom over the pot, they use real, big, chunks of tasty and awesome mushrooms in their soup. Superb and looking back I would have had a bowl! They have a number of Paninis – a Philly, turkey, mushroom and Swiss, hot beef and cheddar and a meatloaf on rye. They do serve dinner if it is that time of the day or you are really famished. Their meatloaf and pot roast are listed under The Rat Pack – with accompanying images of Frankie, Dino and the boys added along for ambiance. Of course you will find all sorts of desserts, ice creams and shakes as well – just what you would expect from the classic American Diner. And, that is what Fezz’s truly is - a classic example of the Great American Roadside diner - and, unfortunately something that is slowly fading from the landscape of the nation from which it was sprung. If on Route 6 riding through the Endless Mountains west of Wellsboro – stop by Fezz’s, it is worth the trip. We’ll start this Rip & Ride from the Penn Wells Hotel in Wellsboro, Pennsylvania – home to more than one Backroads Rally. Be forewarned that this very well may have some unpaved portions of varying degrees of difficulty – it is the Endless Mountain region, after all. There are more direct and longer ways to get from Wellsboro to Coudersport on paved roads – be creative, have fun and enjoy your Americana meal.

Rip & Ride® • Fezz’s Diner 120-mile R/T GPS and printed PDF download available here: www.sendspace.com/filegroup/IZ01t1oSR7Uj0tizP2t6Cg


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Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERI OU S AMERIC A STaTiOn ROCk WHERE DOES THE GARDEN STATE REALLY END AND THE EMPIRE STATE BEGIN? We have been here before… the never-ending dispute with New Jersey and New York. You see the signs along Route 206 and Route 97. Although we might discount all this – the truth is that blood was shed over this line. Indeed, to the south Jersey has an issue with Delaware as well. We got issues. You got issues? Let’s stick to the north. As soon as Europeans got into the area there were disputes. The early pioneers of Cushetunk were not the first white men to set foot in this area. Surveyors had been through for years, marking out the trackless forests, to lay out the line for the various grants given by the English Kings to the Penns, the Connecticut Colonists and New Jersey. Some of these grants overlapped causing many disputes. So, in 1720, a commission on New York and New Jersey surveyors came up the Delaware to locate the dispute point. New York claimed the line should be on the Delaware mouth of the Neversink near Port Jervis, while New Jersey contended that it was on the river at Cochecton. The Commission reached the conclusion that the point was at Cochecton, so the large rock called Station Rock on the bank of the New York side was marked. A drill hole was made in the rock and the letters “J L” were cut thereon. The letters “P L” are cut on the facing shore. These letters can still be seen, though waters and ice of the Delaware have flowed over and around the huge boulder for more than 224 years. The original grant called for a boundary line between the

provinces from Station Rock — 41 degrees 41 minutes north latitude in a straight line to a point on the Hudson 41 degrees north. The line run was called the New Jersey Claim Line and was the cause of many a dispute between the authorities and the people of the states involved. But, after years of arguments and dissension, a Commission rendered a decision on October 17, 1769 and the line was finally fixed in Port Jervis where the Delaware and the Neversink meet. Still the original wording about the real borders is quite interesting. Hey, we are not making this up. They said… “That the rock on the west side of Hudson’s River marked by the surveyors in the said acts mentioned, in the latitude of 41 degrees, we have marked with a straight line through its surface passing through the place marked by the said surveyors and with the following words and figures to wit; latitude 41 degrees North, and on the south side there of the words New Jersey, and on the north side thereof the words New York. That we have marked trees, agreeable to the said Acts, standing in the said line, with a blaze and five notches under the same. And that we have directed stone monuments at onemile distance from each other along the said line, except the monument number 26 which by reason of the Long Pond (present day Greenwood Lake) we were obliged to place one chain further from the station on Hudson’s River. And we have numbered the said monuments from the west side of Hudson’s River beginning with number one, and ending with number 48, and have marked the words New York on the north side of each of said monuments, and the words New Jersey on the south side of each of the said monuments.


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Restless Heart Sitting in my writing room, In a house that’s dark and cool, Typing on this silver box That’s both my master and my tool,

I dream of rides I’ve yet to take. The hour is late – my normal time To contemplate the past; To think about the rides I’ve done: How much longer will they last? Perhaps two decades more.

In witness whereas we have hereunto set our hands and seals, the 30th day of November, one thousand seven hundred and seventy-four.” On the 250th anniversary of the land mapping, some modern day surveyors – Brian Taylor, Bob Heggan and their cohorts – tried to unscramble all the data, plot the points using modern equipment and gps, and show the world the true position of the survey line drawn. Not that it would make any difference at all, it was purely a labor of love and because it’s part of New Jersey’s history. The East-West New Jersey line, known as the Lawrence Line because it was plotted by surveyor John Lawrence, divided the state diagonally between Little Egg Harbor and the point that now lies in New York State. So let’s get this right. New Jersey does not end at High Point. It should go on for many more miles, all the way up Route 97, way past the Hawks Nest and Narrowsburg. Curious, is it not? But, I don’t see Governor Murphy going to war on this. Still, it is a fascinating thing to think about as we ride along the backroads of Mysterious America. O’Life Out!

There’s music on – it softly plays An old blues tune - guitar, I reminisce about my rides, How long, to where, how far. I’ve had some great ones. I think about the places That I’ve yet to go, The desert roads, Route 66, The Rockies in the snow. So many roads, so little time.

The atlas, open on the shelf My eyes upon it fall, Sometimes it’s my favorite book, The roads within it call, For therein lie my future rides. Some people call it restless feet, When you feel the need to move. I tend to think it’s something else, When riding is your love. Riding moves your soul. This is what I think about, When it’s cold and dark outside. I can still my restless feet, But my restless heart must ride. I’ll see you on the road. ~ Mark Byers


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WE’R E OUT TA HERE The YuRTS Of flOYd 375 paRkwaY lane S, flOYd, ViRginia 24091 540-505-4586 • flOYdYuRTlOdging.COM Along the steppes of Central Asia and in the vastness that is Mongolia you will find nomadic peoples. They move with the seasons and circumstances. Traveling by horseback they need to bring their homes with them. Most of the time these portable, circular homes are called Yurts. The word comes from the Turkic people and ‘yurt’ actually means the impression left in the ground when the shelter is moved, but has become the name of this movable dwelling. In Asian culture these yurt have a deeper meaning and are many times created with symbolism woven into their design. The traditional decoration within a yurt is primarily pattern-based. These patterns are generally not according to taste, but are derived from sacred ornaments with certain symbolism. Symbols representing strength are among the most common, including the khas (swastika) and four powerful beasts, the lion, tiger, garuda, and dragon, as well as stylized representations of the five elements - fire, water, earth, metal, and wood, considered to be the fundamental, unchanging elements of the cosmos. Such patterns are commonly used in the home with the belief that they will bring strength and offer protection. Repeating geometric patterns are also widely used. The most widespread geometric pattern is the continuous hammer or walking pattern. This is commonly used as a border decoration, representing unending strength and constant movement. Another common pattern is the ulzii, a symbol of long life and happiness. The khamar ugalz and ever ugalz are derived from the shape of the animal’s nose and horns, and are the oldest traditional patterns. All patterns can be found among not only the yurts themselves, but also on embroidery, furniture, books, clothing, doors, and other objects. The design is elegant and simple and you are beginning to see them pop up around the planet. Just outside the town of Floyd, Virginia, a musical destination well worth a visit at anytime, you will find Floyd Yurt Lodging.

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads While we were down their in May some friends of ours, Scott and Andrea, had rented the yurt for the Backroads Spring Break Rally. They called us and told us we HAD to come over. We’re glad we did. The Yurt was about as neat a rental as we had ever seen. They make these yurts right here, in addition to another product of strict motorcycle interest. This was one of two yurts they could show perspective buyers, but this could have been the Mother of all Yurts. Thirty feet in diameter with tenfoot walls, it was high bar palatial rustic. Impressive as it looked as we walked up to the yurt, stepping inside was like Dorothy opening the door into Oz! Since Andrea and Scott spent a few nights here we’ll let them tell us their likes and dislikes… Take it away kids… The yurt is located on the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains, 5 miles off the BR Parkway in Floyd County, VA. The scenery is beautiful and Floyd offers something for everyone—music, art, restaurants, outdoor activities and backroads to explore. The yurt holds 6 people pretty comfortably. Yurt delights included a full kitchen with refrigerator, oven, microwave and all-important coffee machine. If you are staying for a few days you can stock up the fridge with milk, meals and brew. The bathroom was most excellent considering it was a yurt with ample counter, drawers, stall shower and toilet.


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The yurt had two bedrooms with two queen beds, one on first floor, the other in the loft, which was amazing with the skylight above. There were two couches, one in loft (futon bed), other in living room plus a love seat. This allowed the yurt to handle six adults. For the colder nights they also have a wood pellet stove. Getting comfortable, even on a rainy and chilly night, was easy as there was a heater/air conditioner above the door, and overhead fan (as well as a couple of electric heaters) so you can set to your preferred temperature. In wet weather you can get cozy with a nice supply of books, a few games and cable. The well-appointed kitchen table had 4 chairs, and also a counter with two bar stools and there was a coffee table in living room as well, so you could spread out to eat indoors. But, in fine southern Virginian weather we say take it al fresco. Outdoors there was a grill and a table with chairs as well as a love seat-sized glider and a nice little wrap around deck.

The biggest attraction is the yurt itself - all the wood provides a lovely warm feeling and the patterns of the lattice walls and lines of wood on the ceiling plus the yurt dome makes for fun patterns to gaze at. What’s not to love about it? Another plus is that the yurt is owned and operated by Kathy Anderson, of Kathy’s Bags – creators of some of the best motorcycle bag liners on the planet – so the yurt has a strong motorcycle connection. They are open for business year round with a 2-night minimum and can accommodate up to 6 people comfortably. The yurt is a nonsmoking facility and well-behaved pets are allowed upon manager approval. You may make your reservation via phone 540-5054586 or online at www.floydyurtlodging.com. Rates are Sunday-Thursday: $131.26/night (taxes included); Friday and Saturday: $164.35/night (taxes included). When in Floyd go for something different. Like the people of the Asian steppes – we are nomads too – you should live like one!

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The Best of Backroads 2018

H

ow was your year? Did you get out? Ride as much as you would have liked? We hope you did. With the turning of the calendar we always think it is a good time to look back at what was featured in Backroads over 2018 – a recap of sorts - and we try to whittle them all down to the ‘top three’, usually in heated discussion, at the tiny watering hole called Monkey with a Gun. As is tradition we had ‘The Gathering’, maybe a little less boisterous than in the past but points were still made and taken. For scribes who really never show to work here at Backroads Central, our crew all seem to take this one annual edition to heart. even Jeff Bahr showed up to weigh in, ‘Obi-Wan’ ghost-like with Bob Newhart. God, that scared the crap out of us! It finally all fell together… enjoy the look back at 2018!

Great All American Diner Run Our perennial favorite (well, maybe Shira’s Inside Scoop has taken this away), we certainly had a few great restaurants featured this past year. For over two decades we have been striving to introduce you to interesting and tasty places. We think we did really well this year.

SECOND RUNNER UP • BIG KEV’S BBQ 350 ROYCE RD, SWAN LAKE, NY • 845-798-7395 • BIGKEVSBBQ.COM There are few things better than roadside barbeque… and Big Kev’s up in the Catskills near Swan Lake ranks at the top of the list. There is a reason folks line up every day. When you mix superb food, Catskill atmosphere and great roads that fill the region well, the combination is hard to beat! The BBQ Trinity – pulled pork, beef brisket and chicken – all done in Big Kev’s own style of smoky goodness is awesome, as is everything else. Adding to it the rustic feel of the picnic tables and you have a magical mixture. Heading up to the Catskills you will be hard pressed to find a better meal along the way. It is easy to see why Big Kev’s made the Best of Backroads.

FIRST RUNNER UP • HISTORIC GROUNDS 142 MAIN STREET, WHITEHALL, NY • 518-499-5017 • HISTORICGROUNDS.NET When you mix a first-rate location, great ambiance and history, especially history, you will get our attention. Historic Grounds in Whitehall, NY has this all. Right across from the sign that marks the Birthplace of the United States Navy you will find Historic Grounds. Starting off as a coffeehouse, it has become so much more, as it celebrates US Naval History and some really great food! Serving as a meeting place for the locals, Nat and the rest of the folks here are most welcoming to travelers, passer’s by and we motorcyclists. From the more-than-filling breakfasts and baked goods to the abundant assortment of sandwiches, salads and soups for lunch (the Lock 12, named after the canal lock down the road, consisting of ham, Swiss cheese, Dijon mustard and Worcestershire sauce, certainly caught our eye), Historic Grounds will not let you leave hungry. While waiting for your order it is well worth taking in some of the US Naval history that they have on display in their wide-open and sunny building. Our US Navy is awesome – and it started in Whitehall. This is a quick and fun ride from Lake George and Americade - something to remember.

1ST PLACE GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN 2018 This year we have a trifecta. How’d that happen? Our special New Jersey edition this November was a huge hit and we were so pleased to bring you three super and diverse restaurants in the Garden State that we couldn’t choose so we gave it to all three. We’ll run through them north to south…

SKYLAND’S BEER & WINE GARDEN 447 ROUTE 284, WANTAGE, NJ • 973-875-9463 • SKYLANDSBEERANDWINE.COM When we heard that Doug Thomson and family (previous owners of the Airport Pub at the Sussex County Airport) had opened a new place in the northern end of our state we made a plan to ride on over right away. Doug has been a big Backroads supporter and we were curious to see what he had cooking. Well, plenty! Skyland’s Beer & Wine Garden is an open and inviting place that can really crank on the weekends. Happy menu and easy feel makes this a perfect place to point your wheels to enjoy some food and music. They even have ‘Motorcycle Parking.’ New Jersey is a diverse state in many ways and this northern part of the state offers great riding, interesting places to see and now, Skyland’s Beer & Wine Garden.


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MORE THAN Q 13 KLINES COURT, LAMBERTVILLE, NJ 609-773-0072 • WWW.MORETHANQ.COM Although More than Q has two locations we will stick with the NJ side of the river this time and the town of Lambertville. Just off Bridge Street you will find a superb BBQ - More Than Q. We were introduced to them a few months back at a Triumph event and it could not have worked out better. Is there a special relationship between rivers and BBQ, as so many good ones that we’ve found reside along them. Between the aroma, ambiance and giant chalk board it is hard to come away unimpressed. Make time to get there and we promise you will not be disappointed.

SHAG’S CRABS 1045 S BROADWAY, PENNSVILLE, NJ • 856-935-2826 • SHAGSCRABS.COM There will never be a season when we do not chow down on crabs somewhere along the line. There is nothing better (in our minds) than a heap of crabs on a butcher paper-covered table and a few hours to devour them. Shag’s is small, somewhat away from it all and awesome in everyway. When it comes to crabs we like simple, fun and delicious! You have it all here. They have their own crabbing boats. Nuff, said! And, as we have ridden down from the top of New Jersey to the bottom - Shag’s is the perfect place to end the Great All American Diner Run for Best of Backroads 2018. Anyone still hungry?

Big City Getaway This column has always been about just going for a ride… always with an interesting end point involved. A great ride is enough on its own, but add in a fun destination and it just keeps getting better. So let’s look at the Top Three Big City Getaways for 2018.

SECOND RUNNER UP • FLY CREEK CEDAR MILL 288 GOOSE STREET, FLY CREEK, NY 607-547-9692 • WWW.FLYCREEKCIDERMILL.COM Wow – what an interesting place. You have food, a little bit of history and apples – lots of apples in season. It is hard to go away from Fly Creek Cedar Mill without feeling you’ve spent a worthy hour or two. You can taste your way through the Mill Store Marketplace with more than 40 samples of gourmet specialty foods, cheese, fudge, apples, hard cider and their famous sweet cider. You’ll have a difficult time packing all these goodies into your saddlebags along with those fresh apples. When we first wrote about it, we weren’t sure where it fit – Big City Getaway or Great All American Diner Run. Duck races, furry little critters, neat restaurant and a great feel brought Fly Creek Cedar Mill into the Best of Backroads 2018.

FIRST RUNNER UP • FREDERIC REMINGTON ART MUSEUM 303 WASHINGTON ST., OGDENSBURG, NY 315-393-2425 • FREDERICREMINGTON.ORG It is almost impossible to look at Frederic Remington’s art and not think, “I know this!” His western and military themed illustrations, sculptures and paintings were brought to the forefront in the late 1800s, and his writings were featured in many magazines of the time. The bronze gallery will certainly hold your attention as will his pencil sketches and magnificent large paintings. The Frederic Remington Art Museum was a stop on our Fall Fiesta a few years back and no one rode away disappointed. In every way he was master and one of the greatest American artists our nation has ever had. We love it when we have a winner – and the Frederic Remington Art Museum was certainly that. How much is that original?

1ST PLACE BIG CITY GETAWAY 2018 • COWTOWN RODEO 780 HARDING HWY, PILESGROVE, NJ • 856-769-3200 • WWW.COWTOWNRODEO.COM Yee ha. Who would have thought that America’s oldest rodeo was in New Jersey? But it is. Started back in 1929 and going on their 65th consecutive year, Cowtown Rodeo has stood the test of time, celebrating the traditions of the Old West every year from Memorial to Labor day. Cowtown was so much fun, and during a summer weekend it is the best place to spend a Saturday night. A little different for us, but amazing, especially the barrel racing, which was truly outstanding. We think we’ll stay on the motorcycles – far safer! Make a plan for next year. Situated at the southern end of the state, it is easily accessible for most in the Backroads’ region, with some fun tarmac along the way. Cowtown Rodeo is truly a bit of Americana and should not be missed.


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We’re Outta Here! Sometimes you just need to disappear; when the day-to-day builds to a crescendo and life has become too complicated, you need a little place that you and yours can hide away for a night or two. Thus – We’re Outta Here! These little getaways can make life seem so worthwhile; just a weekend reboot to soothe the soul and stretch the cables. Here are our top three picks for 2018.

SECOND RUNNER UP • STONEWALL RESORT 940 RESORT DR., ROANOKE, WV • 304-269-7400 • STONEWALLRESORT.COM We have probably not had as much praise as we did for the Stonewall Resort at last year’s Spring Break Rally. Everyone loved everything – and we have a tough crowd. Not much to say after that. The incredible combination of West Virginian location, mindboggling roads and great people who attended this event made for a most excellent time. With Ohio to the west and deep West Virginia all around it was most exceptional in every way. The facility was exceptional, from the nicely manicured grounds to the tasty restaurants and very comfortable lodings. The pool rocked too! It is easy to see how we can highly recommend the Stonewall Resort when in this region.

FIRST RUNNER UP • 5 LAKES LODGE 46 MARINA DRIVE, MILLINOCKET, ME 04462 • 207-723-5045 • WWW.5LAKESLODGE.COM It is hard to ride around the Appalachian Mountains and not see signs for the ‘Trail.’ Stretching for almost 2,200 miles, it is more miles than some riders do in a year. Sad – we know. Yet, it has been a nice part of our lives for many years. Backroads Central butts up against it. So, to find such an exquisite lodge at the northern end of the Appalachian Trail was more than a treat. Rick and Debbie have something incredibly special. Tucked away and nestled on South Twin Lake, 5 Lakes Lodge is just a short hop to Baxter State Park, home of Mount Katahdin and all its wonderful hiking trails. Waking up to the view of Mount Katahdin is beyond words. The lodge, the lake, and their hospitality will bring us back again and again. Once you experience it for yourself, it is so easy to see why they have become a very special place for Backroads.

1ST PLACE WE’RE OUTTA HERE 2018 • INN AT BIRCH WILDS 3236 W LIZARD CREEK RD, LEHIGHTON, PA 18235 (570) 818-4433 • WWW.INNATBIRCHWILDS.COM When we stepped into the Inn at Birch Wilds, we knew we had a We’re Outta Here winner. Cheryl and Rhonda – sisters – run this relaxing oasis in eastern Pennsylvania, which we just happened across. It’s just wonderful in every way. Our room, Into the Wilds, was as comfy as could be but it was hard to get past that copper bathtub. The Mountain View suite, located in the oldest part of the Inn built back in 1750 and made of log, had the name Penn (yes, those Penns) on one of the original deeds. Yup, yup, yup… Just very neat in every way. Amazing views of the Kittatiny Ridge, acres upon acres to explore, upscale pool table, indoor pool and homemade food in their own restaurant make this an excellent escape from the day-to-day. Add a nice bottle of wine… and ‘the bathtub.’ So easy to see why the Inn at Birch Wilds has hit the pinnacle of this year’s We’re Outta Here.

Mysterious America There is surely not a more argumentative column when deciding the Best of Backroads each year. The battles at Monkey with a Gun have become legendary with Chief of Staff O’Life battling it out with the likes of Heald and Byers - over cigars, single-malt and ‘hook.’ Ahh, good time kids, good times! What is different? What is weird? What is Mysterious America? One rider’s holy mackerel is another’s ho-hum. But, we think we did exceptionally well this year. So, here we go.

SECOND RUNNER UP • SABIN’S STONEY ACRES NEAR SKINNER’S FALLS ON THE DELAWARE This is one of those places we discovered on the way to somewhere else and simply slowed down to take it all in. Paul Sabin’s odd and eclectic collection of art along a small backroad in northeastern Pennsylvania certainly grabs some attention. A tree adorned with bicycles rises up from the forest called ‘Cycle Mayham.’ Then there is the ‘Largest Weed Wacker Sculpture’ in all of Pennsylvania – not many of those around, we think? While there is a sign posted ‘I Shoot Back’ Paul is one of the nicest folks you’ll meet and welcomes admirers of his artwork. Sabin’s Stoney Acres is amazing in every way. Seek this out and you will see why it made the Best of Backroads 2018.


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FIRST RUNNER UP • CONCRETE CITY NANITCOKE, PENNSYLVANIA We called this place the Toughest Town in America. Back in 1911 when coal was King, especially in northeastern Pennsylvania, a local coal company decided on a novel approach for housing their middle-management – a town built out of a new and seemingly indestructible building material – concrete. Although tough, this experiment did not last long at all and in just under a dozen years it was abandoned. It is now home to partying teens and exploring ATVs, as well as those drawn to the mysterious. Oh, they have tried flattening it but, to this day, it has withstood the test of time. Ruined and a mess, but still a deep part of Mysterious America.

1ST PLACE MYSTERIOUS AMERICA 2018 • THE PEMBER MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 33 WEST MAIN ST, GRANVILLE, NY 12832 • 518-642-1515 • WWW.PEMBERMUSEUM.WORDPRESS.COM We visited this incredible museum during one of our Summer Squeeze rallies and even those that cringe at taxidermy were impressed by what is to be found here in Granville, New York. Housed in a grand Victorian-style building there are over 7,000 objects pristinely showcased in beautiful tabletop and glass cases, perfectly lit for all to admire. Rare and exotic mammals such as the Duckbilled Platypus and Red Kangaroo and extinct species such as the Carolina Paroquet and Passenger Pigeon are highlights of this amazing collection. At every turn these is something else to take in and study. Truly amazing and a visit to the Pember Museum of Natural History will easily convince you that true Mysterious America is to be found in the oddest places.

Inside Scoop Shira has been searching far and wide, across the continent and beyond, to bring you what she thinks are some of the best scooping establishments to be found. While she’s not against some high end mass produced dairy, she prefers to keep her daily caloric milk intake to small batch homemade ice cream. This year’s offerings had a little bit of both, but these three parlors were awarded the cherry on top.

SECOND RUNNER UP • COOPER’S CAVE ALE COMPANY AND ICE CREAM 2 SAGAMORE ST, GLENS FALLS, NY 12801 • 518-792-0007 • COOPERSCAVEALE.COM Although Cooper’s Cave started out as an ale house, producing their very fine brews and serving some delicious food, Patty and Edward’s son Adrian took advantage of their positioning on the Warren County Bikeway to offer joggers, bikers and otherwise healthy types a refreshing dip of homemade ice cream. The large menu of flavors, both hard and soft, will satisfy anyone’s sweet tooth. If you want a real treat, order up an ice cream float made with one of their many homemade sodas such as orange cream, birch beer or spicy hot ginger beer (plop a scoop or two of vanilla in there – yum!) or how about a Java Jive with cream soda and coffee-coffee ice cream – that’ll keep ya rollin’ along.

FIRST RUNNER UP • BUTTERFIELD’S ICE CREAM 946 W MAIN ST, DOVER-FOXCROFT, ME 04426 207-564-2514 • BUTTERFIELDSICECREAM.COM Butterfield’s has been satisfying locals tastebuds since 1950 with their homemade ice cream of multitudinous flavors. Being in the northern climes of Maine, they are a seasonal business but certainly crank up the churner for six months of the year. The small inside seating area is cozy when the weather might not be the best, but if the sun’s a shinin’ order up your favorite flavor and take a seat at one of their outside picnic tables or on the bench out front and watch the people and traffic roll on by. The Mint Katahdin was sublime and, coupled with the Daak Chocolate, I couldn’t think of a place I’d rather be than enjoying my ice cream at Butterfield’s.

FIRST PLACE INSIDE SCOOP 2018 • FOX MEADOWS CREAMERY 2475 WEST MAIN ST, EPHRATA, PA 17522 • 717-721-6455 • FOXMEADOWSCREAMERY.COM Found on our way to our 2018 Spring Break’s first stop at the Cork Hotel, the Fox Meadows Creamery has been in the dairy farm business for over 50 years, with their herd of cows happy and healthily supplying dairy for the daily ice cream churners. The creamery and country store have only been around for the past 4 years, but have been bringing many smiles throughout with their innovative, and more conventional, flavors. You can watch the process during production hours before stepping up to the counter to peruse the 24-flavor listing and making your decision. There’s indoor and outdoor seating, as well as more substantial food. The combination of stellar ice cream, always-pleasant Amish country riding and the farm setting easily put Fox Meadows Creamery at the top of the whipped cream on our Inside Scoop 2018 listing.


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ChanTillY gOOdS VinTage SOda fOunTain 200 BRidge ST, weiSSpORT, pa 18235 • 610-379-4767 • www.ChanTillYgOOdS.COM Open eVeRY daY fROM 12-9pM While traveling this great country, specifically the northeast and even more pinpointed the eastern portion of Pennsylvania, you’ll travel through some quaint old villages, some more historic than others. One such example is Weissport, which many years back was named New Gnadenhuetten (good thing Colonel Jacob Weiss decided to stake a claim here…) and here’s why. Most of us know Benjamin Franklin as an older gentleman with long but balding hair and glasses. Perhaps you picture him flying a kite or downing a pint or two at the local pub. But I’m going to give you six degrees of separation between Benjamin Franklin and Weissport. Here goes (think of this as Drunken History…) In the mid-1700s, this part of our newly forming country was having all kinds of troubles – the French and Indian War, growing pains and those pesky native Americans known to us as Indians. Following a particularly bloody massacre at New Gnadenhuetten, Robert Hunter Morris, the lieutenant governor of this Province of Pennsylvania, told the rapidly fleeing folks that he would build them a fort for protection and put none other than Colonel Benjamin Franklin (who happened to be the Postmaster General at the time) on the job. Thursday, January 22, 1756, the flags were raised, the guns were loaded and Fort Allen was officially named for Judge William Allen, father of James Allen, who laid out Allentown in 1762.

So, Shira, where’s this connection to Ben Franklin, Weissport and a soda fountain, you ask? More disjointed history care of me: One Joseph Priestly, who after a series of scientific discussions with Benjamin Franklin (yes, that Ben Franklin) came up with the idea of carbonated water in 1767, which has been used for health benefits and later became used with syrups of sorts to help make the taste of medicines more palatable. Moving forward, this same carbonated water became the base for ice cream sodas and egg creams and, voila, you have your connection with Ben Franklin and the wonderful establishment we’ll be visiting this month – Chantilly Goods. Chantilly Goods Vintage Soda Fountain came to being in 2015, but the building in which it resides has been around much longer. In the 1800s, it was originally used as a shoe and hat store then the post office, which was more of the settlement’s staple corner store. Fast forward to 1930 when it was bought by Jebez and


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Miriam Reed who turned it into a grocery market. It remained such, and was run by their son Richard Reed until it closed its doors in 2010. In 2012 Jay and Angela took possession of the building and, during the lengthy cleansing process, Angela found antique drug bottles in the floor joists. Angela, being a pharmacist, explained to Jay that back in the day, many pharmacies had soda fountains within, and since the local ice cream parlor/mini golf course had just closed, it would be a great idea to make this historic building into just that – the local soda fountain. And here we are today, licking our cones and sipping our ice cream sodas surrounded by authentic wooden floors, trim, doors and blackboards dating back to the early 1900s. The soda fountain dispenser itself was purchased from an original 1940s soda fountain in Pottsville, PA. Okay, on to the good stuff – how’s the ice cream? While they don’t make their own, they have the very next best thing – Manning Dairy ice cream. We featured Manning Dairy many moons ago in these pages and are hard-

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pressed to think of a better ice cream to be found in this area. Chantilly Goods carries 25 flavors that can be served in a plethora of ways, from simple cones to homemade waffle sundaes or specialty sundaes. How about a Muddy Canal – pick your ice cream flavor and top it with peanut butter sauce, hot fudge, chocolate jimmies, Chantilly and a cherry. Getting back to the Ben Franklin connection, Chantilly Goods will make you an old-fashioned soda with your choice of 1 or 2 syrups and mixed up fresh. Some of their flavors include Citrus Dew, Green Apple, Prickly Pear and Teaberry. Can’t decide? Have a Soda Flight of 3 flavors. Their Soda Floats sounded pretty tasty too – Late Start: Vanilla soda and coffee ice cream or Tootsie Pop: Cherry soda and chocolate ice cream. Along with these delicious dairy delights, you’ll find an old-fashioned candy counter and a great display of the antique drug bottles found will renovating. There are some neat gift and toys to amuse and the town of Weissport has a pleasant town square just across the street to enjoy your ice cream al fresco. Jay is one of us, as he enjoys riding on and off-road when he has the free time. During our visit, he told us of his newly purchased Honda Africa Twin and the rides he had been on recently. Nothing better than patronizing a great ice cream shop whose owner might just be along on one of our Backroads’ rallies soon.


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JANUARY 2019 • BACKROADS PRODUCT REVIEW

A SUIT FOR ALL SEASONS • KLIM’S LATEST RIDING GEAR PROVIDES FORM AND FUNCTION Remember the good old days of motorcycling, when no matter how hot, or wet, or cold, weather protection came courtesy of one faithful, well-worn leather jacket? Yes, you might be waterlogged, sweat-soaked, or, because of necessary layers, stuffed like sausage into its casing just to keep warm, but that’s life on the road, so complaining not allowed. Well, in these good new days, trademarked and copyrighted high-tech fabrics and gear shield our riding bodies from the uncomfortably fickle weather extremes, as well as bugs, road rash and other two-wheeled troubles. Adventure and sport bike riders quickly adopted such gear, as that new-fangled look seemed styleand purpose-appropriate for their rides. But cruising riders often remained faithful to those traditional looking well-worn leathers, chaps, occasional mesh jackets and rain suits (donned while underneath an overpass). Motorcycle clothing manufacturer Klim, known for protective and weather-proof gear, solved this fashion dilemma with its Altitude jacket and pants, giving cruising female riders a high-tech, stylish, alternative riding outfit. Male riders have a similar option in Klim’s Latitude line. This ready-for-anything gear, which eliminates carrying just-in-case rain suits, ventilated jackets or sweatshirts, also gives multi-day riders an extra perk… increased saddlebag room. After an eight-month trial period covering Mother Nature’s extremes from frosty to sweltering with the occasional rainy deluge for good measure, I can objectively say the Klim Latitude jacket and pants deserve worthy consideration for riders seeking well-rounded weather and road protection.

WOMEN’S ALTITUDE JACKET/MEN’S LATITUDE JACKET The women’s Altitude three-quarter length jacket offers stylish functionality. It curves in at the waist and out at the hips and shoulders, giving a flattering silhouette, helped by fashionable placement of colors that sneakily disguise its purpose-driven design. An external, adjustable waist belt and straps on the arms can cinch the jacket tight or loose, while elastic-cord, hip-area side fasteners do the same, tailoring the jacket to fit or quickly adjust to changing clothing needs underneath. Pleats in the shoulder and arm areas allow for a comfortable reach to the handlebars, and a zipper allows attachment to the pants. The jacket uses a full-length double storm flap with hook and loop closures over its zipper and has glovefriendly pulls. The collar comes up to the chin for protection from cold air, but a snap will also hold it open on warmer days for better ventilation. An elastic cinch in the back tailors the collar’s fit and airflow, and a soft fabric lining prevents abrasion when you turn your head. The cuffs tighten using a hook and loop closure. The jacket maintains a full arsenal of motorcycle safety gear. Highly reflective patches on the arms and across the back provide better nighttime visibility to other motorists. High-abrasion zones (think arms, shoulders, elbows, upper back) receive extra-sturdy 840D Cordura® nylon overlays, while the cuffs and adjustment straps are made from 500D Cordura®. For armor Klim chose the D30®-brand EVO elbow and shoulder pads, and D30®


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2019 FLO 1 back protector. I found this armor extremely comfortable, thick but pliable, lightweight, and neither non-binding nor constrictive. The back protector actually has holes for ventilation making hotter days more bearable. The D30® company website claims it makes soft, flexible armor with high shock-absorbing properties. Thankfully I can’t attest to the shock absorbing claim, but I do vouch for its comfort. Cargo capacity of the jacket is excellent, though not as good as other jackets I’ve used. Inside exists two zippered mesh pockets (one with an earphone port), two other mesh pockets that secure with a hook and loop fastener, and one (hidden in the back) zippered passport pocket. Two zippered hand pockets are on the outside as well as an emergency zippered ID pocket on the left arm. The jacket does not have a designated waterproof chest pocket like others I’ve worn, where I usually keep my cell phone. With this jacket I kept my cell in an inside zippered pocket, which meant having to unzip the jacket and the pocket every time I needed access to it…a small hassle and complaint. However, I have no complaints regarding weather protection. The jacket uses a GORE-TEX® 2-layer performance shell main body with a guarantee of dryness. It works…no seepage, no dampness ever creeped inside. On hot days, the Altitude jacket uses a combination of six vents to create airflow— two in the bicep area, two long vertical ones on the chest, and two vertical ones on the back. Each uses a waterproof zipper with glove-friendly pulls. The vents work, providing a much-needed interior breeze on sweltering days. Color choices feature solid black, a dark gray/light gray/black combo (what I chose) or a high-visibility combination of blue/yellow/black. The ladies Altitude jacket retails for $599.99.

The men’s Latitude jacket is almost identical to the women’s Altitude jacket. Fashionable looking but functional, photographer/tester/husband Tim says he has no complaints about his jacket, finding it comfortable, waterproof, and well-ventilated when required. It uses the same materials and armor, but does have two extra mapstyle chest pockets on the front along with one waterproof chest pocket not found on the women’s jacket, and cargo pockets rather than hand pockets on the outside. Inside the chest pocket hangs a key hook attached to the jacket with an elastic cord, handy for keeping your ignition or house key readily available. Zippers at the hip and an adjustable belt customize the fit. It has the same four front vents but only one wide exhaust vent on the back. The Latitude comes in black, black/gray combination, and a black/hi-vis yellow combination and retails for $649.99 to $679.99.

WOMEN’S ALTITUDE PANTS AND MEN’S LATITUDE PANTS The women’s Altitude pant has a lot of the same features as the jacket. It uses a guaranteed waterproof GORE-TEX® 3-layer performance shell in the main body, with the 840D Cordura® nylon overlays in areas requiring extra protection, like the knees and seat panel. The same comfortable and flexible D30® armor pads

Page 27 protect the knee and hip area, and reflective patches on the front knee and outside leg area make a rider easier to spot. Soft leather patches on the inner thigh area help provide grip and protect the gas tank’s paint. I especially appreciated the air vents on hot days. A waterproof zipper on each upper and back thigh provided much cooling airflow. I admit to being initially skeptical of their usefulness, and was pleasantly surprised. Waterproofness was excellent. The pants use a center zipper in the front and the fit is customized by two adjustable elastic hook and loop straps on each side of the waist. I wore my standard size 8 and found the pants slightly big, but the waist adjustability fixed that issue. The pants are roomy enough to be worn over jeans, leggings, or long underwear, whether you want extra warmth or just don’t feel like wearing riding gear when you arrive at your destination. The pants can also zip to the jacket in the back. The leg openings expand with knee-high side zippers, so you can don the pants with your boots on, if necessary, but you can’t cinch them tight at the bottom. That makes quite a breeze rushing up your


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legs—welcome on hot rides, but makes for downright chilly breeze when the temperatures drop. My other complaint lies with the pockets…or lack of them. Not a single pocket resides on the pants, which confounded me. Though I appreciate fashionable-looking gear, for me and motorcycling, function will win over form every time. I normally carry my identification and necessary cards in a pants pocket while riding, because though I might take off my jacket to enter a restaurant or gas station, my pants stay on. On warm days, when removing my jacket at stops, I had to remember to transfer my wallet to a purse to carry with me to a restroom or restaurant. A petty complaint? Maybe, but when traveling a lot, little nitpicks can grow into big gripes. Enough to not recommend the pants? No, I found the benefits of the weather protection and adjustability, and the security of the safety features, far outweighed the few complaints. The Altitude pants come in a color combination of dark gray/light gray/black or solid black and retail for $499.99. For men Klim has redesigned its Latitude pants, with an improved comfort waistband construction (similar to the women’s model) and adjustable cuffs at the leg openings (missing on the women’s model). The pants use much the same materials, construction, and safety features as the women’s model, however these pants have pockets, including two front water-resistant hand pockets and one water resistant pocket on the left thigh. Tim likes the pants even more than he expected, saying they’re comfortable, work well to keep him dry, and the vents really help cool the legs on hot days. The Latitude pants retail for $499.99 to $519.99 depending on size, and come in two color choices: black or gray with black accents.

WOMEN’S WHISTLER JACKET/LINER These Klim jackets do not come with interior insulation. I found the jacket suitable on its own for temps upwards of 60 or 65 degrees, but below that I needed to wear something underneath to stay warm. Klim sells a variety of light-, mid-, and heavy-weight liners so riders can customize their warmth to their liking. So, one outer shell, combined with a specific liner offers multiple options. All the liners function as stand-alone jackets for non-riding, as well.

I chose the Whistler jacket, a mid-weight piece fashionable and functional. It uses GORE-TEX® Windstopper® material for breathable, extra coldweather protection, and has a cozy micro-grid fleece interior and four-way stretch, so it moves with you. The soft collar zippers up to the chin, with a zipper guard to prevent chafing, and I still found it easy to turn my head side to side— even with the collar up— underneath the Altitude jacket. It has an MP3 port in the interior chest pocket, two softly-lined handwarmer pockets, and a zippered pocket on the left sleeve. I didn’t feel or look like the Michelin Man wearing it under the jacket. It has soft cuffs to prevent wind from blowing up your arms, but I wished it had thumbholes to keep the sleeves from riding up when donning the outer shell. I chose a gorgeous coral color (they call orange) with a blue zipper, but the Whistler comes in an array of fun colors. With the Whistler and just a long sleeve t-shirt, underneath the Altitude, I kept warm down to about 50 degrees, below which I would have needed a heavier shirt or a heated jacket liner. The Whistler retails for $159.99. High-tech often comes with a higher price, and this Klim gear is no exception. However, it is an investment, and investments often reap higher returns in the end. This is a riding suit for all occasions, all conditions, offering all-weather protection and state-of-the-art safety in one package. Fashion or function? You can have both. For more information visit their website at www.klim.com. ~ Pamela Collins


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New Machines announced for 2019 • Look to a different ride… Yamaha All-New Ténéré 700 Yamaha Motor Europe announced the allnew Yamaha Ténéré 700 Adventure Touring motorcycle during EICMA in Milan, Italy, and Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. announced that this exciting all-new motorcycle would also be produced for the U.S. market. Production for the European model will take place in France, while production for the U.S. model will take place at Yamaha’s factory in Japan. Due to differing government regulatory standards and factory production line schedules, the all-new Ténéré 700 is scheduled to arrive at U.S. dealerships in the second half of 2020. Yamaha U.S. also announced the return of the flagship Super Ténéré ES as the company’s 2019 Adventure Touring model. The Super Ténéré ES will be available in a Ceramic Ice color scheme for an MSRP of $16,199 • yamahamotorsports.com

Honda CB650R Honda brings a fresh new approach to the naked middleweight arena, with the Neo Sports Café styling of the CB650R, replacing the CB650F. The classic Honda four-cylinder engine propels a lightweight chassis with a highrevving spirit, and premium specifications include upgrades to suspension, brakes and instrumentation. The new CB650R mirrors the CB1000R, with pared-down lines designed to put maximum machine on show. Its super-compact, trapezoid form draws extremities in tightly, and the four-cylinder engine—blacked-out with cam and engine covers highlighted in burnished

bronze—is the machine’s centerpiece. Compared to the street fighter-styled CB650F that it replaces, weight has been trimmed from the chassis. An inverted 41mm Showa SFF fork, radial-mount four-piston calipers, floating brake rotors and new wheels are also new for 2019. Tapered handlebars make for easy steering, and the riding position is sporty. The CB650R also shares the CB1000R’s distinctive round LED headlight (all lighting is LED) and modern LCD instrument display, which includes Shift Up and Gear Position indicators. The engine’s revised intake and exhaust, plus new cam timing and compression ratio, boost peak power and provide a smoother, stronger torque delivery through the midrange. An assist/slipper clutch eases upshifts and manages fast, successive downshifts. On the ABS version, HSTC improves rear-wheel traction. MSRP starting at $8,899

CB500X Nothing delivers the feeling of freedom like an adventure bike, and the redone CB500X has significant performance upgrades that make it ready for adventure without losing any of its city manners. Here’s one of the best-kept secrets in motorcycling: Adventure bikes not only let you explore some interesting places, they’re also some of the best all-around motorcycles ever. And for 2019, Honda has taken one of their best—the Honda CB500X—and made it even better. It gets more midrange power, making it even more fun to ride. A new rear shock with larger-diameter internals for an even better ride, a new, slimmer seat, more suspension travel, a new slipper/assist clutch…And the list goes on.


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CB500F Honda’s 500-class street fighter receives an aggressive front-to-back redesign, evolving for 2019 with aggressive bodywork to create a more muscular, wedge-like styling. A tapered handlebar adds to the overall riding feel. New LCD instruments feature a Shift Up and Gear Position function and the indicators are now LED, to match the rest of the lighting. Thanks to inlet, exhaust and valve-timing revisions, the twin-cylinder engine has more low-to-midrange power and torque. The CB500F is also now equipped with an assist/ slipper clutch. A new single-tube shock delivers consistent damping performance and improved control. MSRP starting at $6,099.

Monkey Bike Who doesn’t want to ride this? Based on the popular Grom, the Monkey Bike is so part of our misspent youth. Weighing in at just 231 lbs. and using tiny 12-inch wheels, the little Monkey, powered by a 125-cc engine backed by a four-speed transmission, has just got to be so much fun! Sign us up – we need one for Monkey with a Gun Tiki Bar! MSRP $3,999 • powersports.honda.com

Suzuki V-Strom 1000XT Adventure Introduced in 2002, the V-Strom 1000 expanded the popularity of motorcycles in the adventure category. When a more proficient V-Strom 1000 debuted in 2014, it was also embraced by riders around the world. To maintain leadership in this category, Suzuki applied new technology and practical experience to the 2018 V-Strom 1000 and now adds a host of tour-ready features to the 2019 V-Strom 1000XT Adventure. Always a good citizen, the V-Strom 1000XT Adventure has innovative

systems to maintain engine performance and great fuel economy while achieving worldwide emission standards. To emphasize Suzuki’s adventure heritage, the VStrom’s styling hints at its lineage with a renewed call for adventure. That fresh styling also contributes to functionality and joins the unique Motion Track Anti-lock and Combined Brake System and other features to bring rider assist technology to a new group of adventure riders. When you look at the MSRP of $14,600, the new VStrom 1000XT Adventure gets you into the game with money left to actually travel.

2020 Suzuki Katana Truly one of the most iconic machines of the 80’s. The new Suzuki Katana seeks to create a new legend. From the sharp lines and highlights defining the length of its body to the rider-friendly performance of its 110kW (150PS) engine, every detail of the Suzuki Katana speaks of distinctive beauty. While its design cues pay due homage to the iconic 1981 GSX1100S Katana, which stole the hearts of riders around the world, the new Katana is a thoroughly modern machine that is breathtaking to behold and inspiring to ride. This might cost us some money. www.suzukicycles.com

BMW F850GS BMW has revamped most of its products for the coming year, one of which includes the F 850 GS Adventure. Living up to the ‘Adventure’ badge, the bike features new features


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such as a steel bridge frame for enhanced rigidity, a pair of new upside-down front forks, an aluminum swingarm and LED lighting. The BMW F 850 GS Adventure also gets a taller windscreen for better wind protection and a bigger 6-gallon fuel tank for enhanced range. This machine had always been popular with the ‘around the world club.’ MSRP starting at $13,195 • www.bmwmotorcycles.com

KTM 790 Adventure and Adventure R These machines will be certain to turn heads for a number of reasons – one of which being the fuel tank with the hopes of a 280 mile range. The 20L tank is placed as low as possible for a lower center of gravity. It also makes the bike narrow in the knee area when standing up and allows for a straighter and lower seat, giving the rider more freedom to move and better accessibility. Each of these rugged bikes has been developed by some of the best adventure riders in the world and in conjunction with the Red Bull KTM Rally Factory Racing Team to provide a confidenceinspiring chassis with riding ergonomics to suit riders of all sizes and spirit. A full-suite of rider assistance systems, easily navigated and activated with a bar-mounted menu switch, aligned to a full color, TFT display, allow the adventurous to get the most from these machines in all situations. www.ktm.com/us

Ducati MultiStrada 950S With the new Multistrada 950S you can experience the beauty of the journey every day, thanks to the mix of Ducati riding emotions and versatility that make it ideal for every use. The limited weight and the 840 mm seat height ensure agility and ease of riding, whereas the advanced technological outfit guarantees maximum safety in all conditions. While the engine remains the same, the updated Multistrada 950 S gets a bi-directional QuickShift (DQS), cruise control, a hydraulic clutch and Bosch Cornering ABS over the standard bike. Suspension duties are now handled by Ducati’s electronically adjustable Skyhook Suspension seen on the bigger Multistrada 1260 S. Italy raises the bar again. www.ducati.com

Kawasaki W800 Cafe The all-new Kawasaki W800 CAFE is Kawasaki’s latest addition to their retro lineup of motorcycles. It’s a true throwback to its 1960’s predecessor, the famed Kawasaki W1. The 1966 Kawasaki W1 is the motorcycle that has come to represent the ethos of Kawasaki’s quest for speed. It had the largest displacement and was the most powerful Japanese motorcycle of its time, and inspired the birth of the legendary machines such as the Kawasaki Z1 and Ninja H2™ sportbikes. Developed for riders who prefer to ride to the throaty roar of timeless performance, the W800 is a well-rounded bike that is not only rich in history and character, but also packed with modern technology and handling features. The W800 CAFE is powered by an air-cooled 773cc vertical twin engine, and features an updated modern double-cradle frame design and modern suspension components that bring an unmatched level of authenticity and performance to the retro motorcycle category. Assist and Slipper Clutch provides lighter feel at the lever and a back-torque limiting function to reduce rider fatigue and wheel hop during downshifts. A café-racer-image front cowl helps deflect wind while adding to the vintage aesthetic. The M-shaped clubman-style handlebar contributes to a natural forward-leaning position optimized for comfort on leisurely rides and highway speeds. It comes in at an MSRP of $9,799. We see this as a great machine for new or returning riders! www.kawasaki.com

Energica Ego Energica Motor Company, headquartered in historic Modena, Italy, is the sustainable subsidiary of CRP Group – a pioneer in the world of international motorsports and a hub of excellence known for its stateof-the-art technologies. Over 45 years of innovation have made CRP Group one of the leading international players for cutting edge CNC Machining, Additive Manufacturing with advanced laser sintering materials Windform. They are offering a number of models and, coming with Marzocchi front fork & Bitubo rear shock absorber and nearly 150 foot pounds of instant torque and a quick 30 minute charge to 85%, look to be incredibly well made and very sexy.


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I

am prone to hit the road, solo. I have driven four wheels across America from coast to coast. Each time, I spent nights camping, hiking, crashing on couches and staying in hostels. Last year, I found myself longing for a solo trip. To mix things up, I decided to take on the country on two wheels. I took a sabbatical from New England to live with a friend in the Sierras. While there, I bought my first motorcycle to get around. By mid-August I needed to get ‘us’ back to Massachusetts. So, I decided to make it a road trip to visit friends, family and ride solo. On a cool, misty morning in the Sierras I headed out for the first leg of my 27-day solo ride across the United States on my 2017 Honda Rebel 500 ABS. It’s a small bike, but it’s bigger than what Robert Selig rode in Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance with his son on the back. So, it would suffice. From Pollock Pines, I cut east over the Sierras via Mormon Emigrant Trail. This route beat the crowds on Highway 50. It climbed quickly then floated along the mountaintops before it descended to Carson Pass. On Carson Pass, I was rewarded with fresh pavement and birdseye views of Silver Lake and Caples Lake. As I headed into Nevada, the terrain transitioned from mountains to green valley to desert brush. Nevada is sizeable – 320 miles from east to west and 490 miles from north to south. My route - Carson City to Austin to Rachel to Panaca – kept me in Nevada for 538-miles. I start out eastbound from Carson City on the Lincoln Highway, which is also known as “The Loneliest Highway in America.” Here, the highway didn’t feel lonely at all. It was crowded with strip malls, chain restaurants, desert casinos, suburban homes, and rumbling 18-wheelers. But as I entered the Dice Valley salt basin, the crowds dissipated, and the desert opened. I was enthralled with the quality of Nevada’s highways. Although they baked in sun and dust, they were perfect. The tar was smooth, and the painted stripes were meticulously painted. Soon the valley transformed from high desert covered in sage brush to the arid Toiyabe Mountains. Save for the periodic low flying F/A-18 Hornets from Naval Air Station Fallon, traffic on the Loneliest Highway diminished and the road got pretty lonely as I closed in on Austin.

Solo on the Blue Highway California to Massachusetts words and images: Kimi Ceridon


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2019

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The next morning, I woke early and continued east. Early morning hours were a good time to be on the road in the southwest desert. The air was cool, the highway was silent and the sky was inky blue and deep orange. After I traversed Toiyabe Forest, I turned into Big Smoky Valley where jagged mountains lined either side. I glanced at my shadow on the shoulder of the road and reveled at the vastness of Nevada and the tininess of me zipping along this black ribbon. This route took me the full length of “The Extraterrestrial Highway” named so because it went through Area 51 where aliens were rumored to have landed. I only came across cows, sand and Joshua Trees. There was no mobile phone coverage and no fuel stops. Aliens and motorcyclists should arrive fully fueled. There was one town of note, Rachel, which had one diner and inn that carried alien souvenirs and served a decent BLT and fries.

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I didn’t find Aliens, but managed to traverse the highway without cracking my spare can of gas. My next stop was Panaca, the last hamlet before the Utah border on Highway 319. There, I took a worthy side trip to Cathedral Gorge State Park and the old mining town, Pioche. After two days and 518 miles, I was still in Nevada with 20 miles to go before Utah. My innkeeper insisted I eat breakfast, so I got a late 6:45am start which was exacerbated when entered Utah’s Mountain Time Zone. I would regret my lateness when the midday heat hit, but, for now, Utah greeted me with blue skies, cartoony clouds and bright sunflowers. A quick jog on Interstate 15 took me to Zion National Park where I happened into gas station social hour with other motorcyclists before I headed into the park. The day was getting hotter and I had many miles ahead, but Zion didn’t disappoint with its stunning beauty. Although it was worth more than a blow through, the desert heat made me want to hustle onward. So, I sweated through the park in a slow line of traffic

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JANUARY 2019 • BACKROADS

while taking in the dazzling red rock formations from my seat. I found relief by soaking my cooling vest with ice water then headed south to Kanab. From there, I made my way east on a highway south of Grand Staircase-Escalante and north of the Arizona border. The scenery is spectacular with the sandy desert basin littered with buttes, towering rock spires and hoodoos. The heat rising from the highway tricked me into thinking my engine was overheating, so I pulled over and examined the situation only to feel the blacktop’s heat penetrating my shoe soles. It was the road overheating. The sun was still scorching, when I finally reached Page, Arizona. As a gateway to Lake Powell, Page is full of hotels and RV parks, but I found a cozy BnB, whose air conditioning was a wonderful haven. In the morning, I made my way to the southeast corner of Colorado. I was born and raised in Colorado, so this was my homecoming day. My northern Arizona route to Dolores was almost entirely inside Hopi and Navajo Reservations with little more than small outposts along the way. I was eager to get to a friend’s house by lunch, so I only paused to fuel up and visit the Four Corners Monument. There, I took a selfie standing in Arizona, Utah, ColRiverside Cafe & Lodge, nestled on the Beaverskill River in Roscoe, NY CIA-trained chef • Motel rooms and cabins • Free wi-fi Excellent base location to explore the lower Catskills

orado and New Mexico all at once. Dolores offered the perfect night to reminisce over beers and the next day, I rode east into the Rockies under deep blue skies. I crossed the Continental Divide on the large swooping turns of Wolf Creek Pass to meet my husband in the San Luis Valley. He would be my Rocky Mountain riding partner for the next three days. We made our way over Poncha Mountain Pass into the Upper Arkansas River Valley to our base camp in Buena Vista. We spent two days riding back and forth over the Continental Divide. The first and second traverses were over the fun and technical Independence Pass near Aspen. The next two were via Hoosier Pass near Breckenridge. Construction kept us from enjoying all the twisties, but we got a few good ones in before making our way to Denver. While he dropped off his rental, I got treated to a summer afternoon downpour. Luckily, I had

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a two-day break to dry out, relax and do laundry. As a kid, my family used to make the trek across Colorado’s eastern plains to western Kansas every summer to visit my grandparents. It was a long flat stretch of prairie. The more scenic route eastward was through Wyoming and Montana before taking on the Midwest, but I was heading to Stockton, Kansas where I laid my mom to rest a year earlier. If there was a heartland of America, it was not far from her final resting spot, which is 70 miles southeast of the geographic center of the continental US. This also meant Stockton was right in the middle of the Midwest with a whole lot of straight, flat road in all directions. So, I kept going east. I stopped in Topeka for a night then moved on to St. Louis. The long stretches of golden plains, distant farms and small towns gave way to the rolling woodlands of the northern Ozarks. Near St Louis, I celebrated the long Labor Day weekend with family then set my sights on Louisville. It wasn’t in my original plans, but rains in Memphis sent me to sunnier climes.

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I left Missouri and crossed the Mississippi River, then the entirety of Illinois, then the Wabash River, then the entirety of Indiana before crossing the Ohio River into Kentucky. The steady head winds didn’t help, but it was a tedious haul. I alternated between highway and country roads attempting to balance time-saving with interesting scenery, but both roadways were clogged with traffic. Towns were full of dollar stores and chain restaurants, but I did manage to find a nice family diner for lunch. Louisville was a welcome site. My last-minute booking rewarded me with a discounted room on a top floor of an upscale downtown hotel with two bourbon bars on site. I relished the spectacular view of the Ohio River before spending the afternoon and evening eating barbeque and sampling local bourbons while chatting with fellow motorcyclist.

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JANUARY 2019 • BACKROADS

Before leaving Louisville, I took the time to visit Churchill Downs, the home of the Kentucky Derby. Nothing much happening in September, but it was worth the stop before riding off to Bowling Green then Nashville. Nashville is the home of Honky Tonks, the Grand Ole Opry, The Country Music Hall of Fame and the Johnny Cash Museum. That last one was the reason I planned two days in Nashville. I took a day off from riding and hopped a city tour bus to take in the sites and sample more local bourbons.

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A rest day was a good idea because the next day I would head to one of the grandest of motorcycle destinations: the road between Chilhowee, Tennessee and Deals Gap, North Carolina - The Tail of the Dragon. Not to miss out on a good curvy road, my husband rode his own bike from Massachusetts and joined me to ride the Great Smoky Mountains. Although it was well-trafficked, the Tail wasn’t overly crowded. So, we were lucky enough to ride the Tail multiple times and still explore the Nantahala Forest for some amazing and technical twisties. The Tail was the main attraction, but there were tons of good rides in these hills. On the third day, we headed east from Tellico Plains on the Cherohala Skyway. The Cherohala Skyway felt like floating through an endless 360°curve. This ride is an exhilarating thrill, but those big ol’ curves felt light and easy after days on the Tail of the Dragon. We carved through the big and fast swooping curves of the Skyway before switching to the expansive views of the Blue Ridge Parkway. As we descended on Asheville, North Carolina, temperatures dropped and the sky darkened. The remnant of Hurricane Irma was making its way right to where we were headed. It alternated between drizzling and pouring. I had


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emergency rain gear already, but my husband did not. So, we headed to the nearest motorcycle shop. I added Gore-Tex gloves to my repertoire, but my husband boldly chose a grip warmer kit. We are both quite competent mechanics, but I would not attempt such a tricky installation on the road with only my small tool set. That’s me, but he really wanted warm hands. I will forgo the exact unfolding of events, but let’s just say it didn’t go smashingly. It was seven hours, two trips to the hardware store, a good amount of cussing, two pots of coffee, a super-glue mishap, lunch delivery, and finally, a call to the motorcycle shop for last minute advice before the warmers were installed. All the while, I absorbed the weather forecast - cold, heavy rain and strong winds. I didn’t like it. Although I wanted to get to my sister’s in Swansboro, North Carolina before my nephew was scheduled to make his debut in the world, I wanted to get there alive. So, we decided to hunker down for an extra day and take in Asheville. Unfortunately, Asheville was an outdoorsy place and getting outdoors was not possible that day. Fortunately, Asheville had a brewery every few steps to pass time indoors. As Irma made her way out of town, we also headed out toward Boone,

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North Carolina. Normally, the best motorcycle route would be the Blue Ridge Parkway, but Irma shut it down. We managed a short section and found out why. The hurricane left a wind torn mess of slick leaves and the ridgeway was still very windy. At Boone, my husband and I parted ways; I headed toward Swansboro with a stop in Durham, he headed back to Massachusetts. One of my guilty pleasures in North Carolina is the chain fried chicken joint Bojangles. I was just finishing off a lunch of dark meat and biscuits when my sister texted, “It’s raining like crazy here. Are you still on the road?” That was sweet of her to worry I might get wet, especially since she was in labor. Rain was pouring at the hospital and it seemed my nephew was waiting for my arrival to make his own entry to this world. I attached my rain covers and hit the road. Fortunately, I timed my arrival in Swansboro between waves of downpours and parked in the garage just before the sky dumped. My nephew arrived a few hours later. I spent 12 days with family then continued on to New England. My bike was freshly lubed, cleaned and repacked as I rode north. A few days earlier, I mapped a route along the Outerbanks to the Ocracoke Island ferry then an inner island ferry to Nags Head. Unfortunately, another hurricane, Maria this time, decided to alter my course. The storm surge sent surfers to the Outerbanks, but it canceled my ferries and caused excessive winds. So, I rejiggered my route inland straight to Virginia Beach. There was high pressure to the west of the hurricane - which was driving it northwardly along the coast. The air was thick and I had to ride through humid, sticky heat with just enough sprinkle of rain along the way to keep me damp and uncomfortable. I made it to Virginia Beach before another round of heavy rains arrived. That evening, I obsessed over the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel and Cape


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Route 739 • Dingmans Ferry, PA • 570.828.1920

May Ferry conditions. The bridge-tunnel was closed to motorcycles for part of the day due to winds but the Cape May Ferry seemed to have been spared. I contemplated heading around the Bay toward DC for a 4+ hour detour but I did not want to go to DC. I did not want to skip the ferry. And, I did not want to bail out of this opportunity to cross the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel. At 9:24am, one mile from the bridge, I got a Twitter alert. “The CBBT is currently operating under Level 1 wind restrictions. Winds are in excess of 40 mph.” So, with a sigh and stubborn determination I paid my toll and entered the bridge. Soon, I was coiled up and crouched down over the tank of my motorcycle to hide behind my windshield, which was vibrating a little more wildly than I liked. I was 75feet above the Atlantic Ocean riding into a 40+mph head wind and I was screaming into my helmet like a maniac. I screamed at the frothy waves that were below me and all around while I simultaneously tried to ignore them. If I were to acknowledge them, their siren song would beckon me to join them in their bone- and motorcyclecrushing churn. The wind didn’t win. Gravity and the abyss didn’t win. This day, I won. Yeah, I might have sounded like I lost my mind, but I crossed the bridge. No embellishment, it was terrifying and I was scared. After more than 4,000 miles alone on two wheels, this was freaky. I took a moment for a little parking lot celebration then I rode through Maryland and caught my ferry to New Jersey. Except for the guy who asked about my California license plate, this ferry ride was far less dramatic than the bridge. The winds were calm, the sky was blue and the air was perfectly salted. I crashed at a friend’s house in Medford Lakes, New Jersey and proceeded to have a few too many whiskeys with her, which haunted me as I skirted my way around Trenton the next day. My goal was to head north and avoid New York City commuters as best as I could. When I finally emerged north of Trenton, I was rewarded with long stretches of New Jersey farmland. The air was warm, but tinged with an early fall chill. Everything seemed to sparkle as I chased my shadow along the blacktop. There were winding roads, rolling hills, cows chewing cud, farmhouses and quaint, idyllic towns. For miles, a pair of touring bikes followed along, accompanying me in silent acknowledgement of the perfection of the day. When we finally stopped at a traffic light, they asked “Did you ride that from California?” As the light changed, I shouted back “Yes!” and noticed, in my review mirror, he raised his hand in a fist pump acknowledging my accomplishment. Although I could have extended my farm country jaunt into New York and Connecticut, the day was waning and I had friends, a hot shower and a cozy bed waiting in Hartford. So, I scuttled out of the countryside and onto the highway. The next day, I met my husband for the final leg of my trip at Charlie’s Diner in Spencer, Massachusetts. New England was sparkling and the air was crisp. I was taking in the moment and relishing in this last day on the open road. Weeks earlier, I left Massachusetts on an airplane. Although I had no return ticket, I did have a crazy plan to return on two wheels. And, then, I did.


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P O L A R BE A R S CHEDULE • 2018- 2019 It is not necessary to be a member of the Polar Bear Grand Tour to do these rides. There is generally food at the destination and if you just want to go for a nice ride and join other folks feel free to attend. Polar Bear cancellations & updates will be posted on the website. Sign-in is from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. unless otherwise posted. Check the New Member page for general information about the Polar Bear Grand Tour.

JANUARY 2019 6 • PIC-A-LILLI INN 866 Route 206 Shamong NJ • 609-268-2066 13 • VICTORY BReWING, 420 Acorn Ln, Downingtown, PA • 610-873-0881 20 • O'Connor's Bar & Grill, 1383 Monmouth Rd, eastampton TWP, NJ • 609 261-1555 27 • THe eXCHANGe, 160 e. Main St., Rockaway, NJ • 973-627-8488

FEBRUARY 2019 3 • THe FRANKLIN HOUSe TAVeRN, 101 North Market Street, Schaefferstown, PA 10 • HOOTeRS, 25 Rte 23 South, Wayne, NJ • 973-837-1876 17 • BAHRS LANDING, 2 Bay Ave., Highlands, NJ • 732-872-1247 24 • LIGHTHOUSe TAVeRN, 397 Route 9 Waretown, NJ • 609-693-3150

MARCH 2019 3 • LONG VALLeY PUB & BReWeRY, 1 Fairmount Rd., Long Valley, NJ • 908-876-1122 10 • Will be scheduled during the riding season 17 • BRIAN'S HARLeY-DAVIDSON, 600 S. Flowers Mill Rd., Langhorne PA 19047 24 • THe HICKORY BBQ SMOKeHOUSe, 743 Route 28, Kingston, NY • 845-338-2424 31 • PLUMSTeD GRILL, 457 Rte. 539, Cream Ridge, NJ • 609-758-5552

APRIL 2019 7 • CAPe MAY V.F.W. post #386, N.J. 419 Congress St., Cape May, NJ • 609-884-7961 13 • eND OF THe SeASON GeT-TOGeTHeR - Pic-a-Lilli Inn • 866 Route 206 Shamong NJ • 609-268-2066 • 11:30 AM. Cost to Members: $6/person. Salad, Wings, Beef, rolls, and lemonade, plus a cash bar. You must get an arm band from your flight leader.

U P C O M I N G E VE N TS 2 0 19 FEBRUARY 2019 8-10 • Progressive International Motorcycle Show - Washington, D.C. • Walter e. Washington Convention Center, 801 Mt. Vernon Place NW: Fri. 3-7pm, Sat. 10am-8pm, Sun. 10am-5pm • $17/adult, 11 and under free • www.motorcycleshows.com

What’s Happening MARCH 2019

1-2 • 9th Modern Classics. Friday Kickstart Party 7-10pm with hors d’oeuvres, refreshments, music and more. Tickets $15 (includes Friday and Saturday) to first 250 guests. enjoy music while browsing the 100 classic motorcycles. Saturday Modern Classics 9am-5pm $10 at door. 567 Route 100N, Boyertown, PA • www.martinmoto.com 8-17 • 78th Annual Daytona Bike Week • www.officialbikeweek.com

APRIL 2019 25-28 • Horizons Unlimited Travellers Meeting - Appomattox, VA. For everyone who dreams of adventure along the road less travelled. Informative technical workshops on everything from tires to GPS to border crossings. Inspirational, amazing and often hilarious tales from the road, exhibitors and time for discussions with other travellers. Camping on-site. For more info/registration: www.horizonsunlimited.com/virginia

MAY 2019 17-19 • Dover Moto Riding for a Cure. Charity event to raise funds towards Breast and Ovarian cancer research based in West Dover, Vermont. Proud supporters of the annual Mother’s for Daughter’s Charity Ride. Weekend of stunning Vermont rides, great food, and good music • Full details www.dovermoto.com 17-19 • Morton’s BMW Spring Fling Rally, Natural Bridge, VA. Full weekend of great riding, good food and terrific company. Rally fee includes vendors, door prizes, route sheets, scavenger hunt poker run, Fri. night Brats + Brew, Sat. catered buffet dinner and guest presentation. Full info and registration: www.mortonsbmw.com 16-20 • Backroads Spring Break. Lions and Coasters and Amish - OH MY! We’ll travel to State College, PA for our first night, then two nights in McHenry, MD and our final night in Bird-in-Hand, PA. Full details: www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html

JUNE 2019 3-8 • Americade, Lake George, NY. Largest motorcycle touring rally. Sign up begins February 2019 • www.americade.com • 518-798-7888 8-16 • 96th Anniversary Laconia Motorcycle Week, Weirs Beach, NH. For full details, schedule and other info: www.laconiamotorcycleweek.com 17 • Ride to Work Day • www.ridetowork.org

SEPTEMBER 2019 9-12 • Rolling Thru America Virginia. Limited to 100 guests • 518-798-7888 • Sign up at www.rollingthruamerica.com 25-28 • Rolling Thru America Maine. Limited to 100 guests • 518-798-7888 • Sign up at www.rollingthruamerica.com 19-23 • SAVE THE DATE. Backroads Fall Fiesta. Always a great time, rain or shine. We know when and we kinda know where, just working out the details. Stay tuned.





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