W H A T ’ S
I N S I D E
MO NT HLY C O L U M NS Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure
FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................3 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................4
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Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil
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Mark Byers, Bill Heald, Tony Lisanti, Dr. Seymour O’Life
POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE.......................5 ON THE MARK ....................................................6
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BACKLASH..........................................................7
Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, NJ 07822
INDUSTRY INFOBITES.......................................8 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA..................................10 BIG CITY GETAWAY .........................................12 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ..............14 WE’RE OUTTA HERE ........................................16 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE ............................18
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SHIRA’S INSIDE SCOOP...................................19 UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ...................48
FE AT U RE S ICELAND FIRE AND ICE TOUR ........................24 I KNOW THIS PLACE ........................................39 CLASS RIDES 2018 ..........................................42 AFT MEADOWLANDS MILE............................47
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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2018. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2018
FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN
Why Plan B is for Better I love making plans. Well, not big plans, like life, the future or anything along that line. No… my particular passion is road trips. For many years my two favorite authors were Robert Parker and Rand McNally and when faced with a few empty hours I can usually entertain myself looking at maps, unusual destinations and the roads that will lead to them. But, over the years I have found that the Scottish poet Robbie Burns’ saying “The best laid schemes of mice and men often go awry” is never far from the truth. (That line is from the poem To a Mouse, on Turning Her Up in Her Nest with the Plough. According to legend it was written by Burns after he was plowing in the fields and accidentally destroyed a mouse’s nest; just a space filling tidbit of knowledge for you) Anyway, I was recently plotting out a couple of routes for an early October run, down along the coast. First to Chincoteague, Virginia for their annual Oyster Festival which has become part of almost every year for the past 20, and then further down along the coast. Plans being to head over the Chesapeake Bay Bridge and Tunnel and then onto Nags Head, Kitty Hawk and a few days in Ocracoke, North Carolina. All things were working out nicely. We like to keep things in and around the 250 mile mark for daily travel if we can, especially if we are planning on mostly backroads, and the many stops for photography, exploration and sight seeing that occur whenever Shira and I are traveling. (If you have ridden with us you know how annoying we can be about this)
Page 3 Over the many seasons and thousands of miles we have found that more times than not, our meticulous Plan A will be usurped by a quickly formed Plan B. It is the way of the universe. Man makes plans and the universe laughs. When I include Plan B, let’s realize I am talking “major” Plan As to Plan Bs. Not just a closed road or a detour - that happens all the time and is scientific certainty with us. I mean more along the lines as you saying “Ruh Ro”- time for a bit of stepping back and thinking it out sort of thing. Looking back at some more memorable Plan Bs (sometimes they can run much further into the alphabet) there are just a few that stand out more than others and one in particular: The Colombian Road of Death It is not really called this – but you will see where I am heading - keep reading. We were riding along a precipitous mountain road coming out of the Andes and down a road that was quickly becoming steeper as we progressed. Coming around a bend we started seeing commercial trucks pulled to the side. As we began the last pass toward our destination for the evening, the parked traffic was overwhelming; much like the road was overwhelmed by the previous night’s heavy rains and the deep, heavy landslide that brought thousands of tons of mud, rock and debris burying the highway. We made our way to the head of the line and were met with the barricade and a bevy of machinery that was at the Herculean task of clearing the road. The only alternative way to the town was a three-hour romp back around the mountain and then along the river. Or, was it? We spotted a number of locals, mostly on foot or walking bicycles, who were coming up from a quickly bulldozed ½ lane road that was cut along mountain below the highway about an hour before. We asked about running the bikes through there and were pointed to the sign that said MUERTE. Continued on Page 46
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DECEMBER 2018 • BACKROADS
WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL
life is Good today Sung to Zac Brown Band Toes Got my toes on the footpegs My ass on the seat The road up ahead is curvy and sweet Life is good today, life is good today. Left northern Jersey The wind at my back, When we got down to Danville They were under attack Seems Michael had been there And brought the high sea VIR had to scramble So they went to Plan B Got my toes on the footpegs My ass on the seat The road up ahead is curvy and sweet Life is good today, life is good today.
Adios and vaya con Dios, yeah I’m leaving VA With a head full of knowledge That’s better than college I learned the Pridmore way. The south course was different Turn One was The Bitch But Reg and his crew Brought if off with no hitch The next day was north course We knew it fair well Our class and track sessions Made our confidence swell Got my toes on the footpegs My ass on the seat The road up ahead is curvy and sweet Life is good today, life is good today. Adios and vaya con Dios, yeah I’m leaving VA With a head full of knowledge That’s better than college I learned the Pridmore way. Another year had passed and it was time to head south and spend a few days with Reg and Gigi Pridmore and the great crew of CLASS. You’ll read in these pages about the trip there and back as well as the two very full days of learning, fun and camaraderie at VIR. What I’d like to address is the incredible feeling of accomplishment and the fact that this, and/or ANY other skills training that you might take, will bring your motorcycle riding and the adventures and travels that you take to such a higher level of enjoyment. I first was introduced to the Pridmores and CLASS at Watkins Glen in 1995. Brian and I, and some folks from our riding club Sport Touring MC, headed to the Finger Lakes for a day on the track. Thinking that this was going to be just a day of going fast around the track, I was pleased with the instruction, attention and sophistication exhibited by everyone involved. Sure, the riders in the A group had a bit more testosterone than we in the B, but having that separation of track/classroom time gave me the space needed to concentrate on the lessons taught and to practice without feeling pressured. The ride back to Englewood NJ, beautiful on its own, became that much better as I felt I had gained levels of riding experience in that one day. The exuberance and confidence (and accelerated speed) made the ride much more enjoyable. The next time I was out for a ride along the backroads, I tried to remember all the things I was told and apply them to my street riding. Fast forward some 20 years: I have had the extreme pleasure of attending CLASS at a few different venues Continued on Page 46
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2018
POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BILL HEALD tech Giveth, and tech taketh aWay There is a thing about getting older that has a direct connection with our relationship to machines. I have given this long and careful thought, and in my case, I think my deep-seated skepticism of the latest and greatest silicon-infested gadgetry is, mostly, a stubbornness that has set in with the passing years. Feel free to call it the “You kids these days, with your smart phones and your self-driving tuba players” syndrome. I confess that much of this stubborn attachment to the past is clearly illadvised. That said, though, there is no doubt in my mind that in the words of the late, great Dudley Moore, “There’s a lot of rubbish about.” The way of thinking that leads me to this revolves around a very simple premise: whenever you introduce a new type of system that replaces an existing technology, the new system shouldn’t take functionality or anything else away from the thing it’s replacing. Yet, it does in far too many cases. Here’s an example: a certain computer company (Apple) has been systematically removing all kinds of ports from most of their devices including USB ports, SD card readers, headphone jacks (especially on phones) and replacing them with Bluetooth and USB-C interfaces and ports. While some of this stuff is nice in that it eliminates cords on headphones for example, it also takes away functional features that I’ve been using and depending on for years. I’ve been a photographer since (it seems) man first transformed sand into glass, and taking the SD card reader port from their laptops makes my life much more difficult. “Your sci-
Page 5 entists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn’t stop to think if they should,” states Dr. Ian Malcolm in Jurassic Park. I think this is valid when discussing any new feature, and I often wonder how much testing companies do with new technology in real-world conditions. In the world of motorcycles, I think we’re a bit better off in general because of the nature of the beast. Before launching something really dramatic, OEMs tend to do a healthy amount of testing to see first how well it works, and also to see if they believe it will work safely with existing riders when a change in the way of doing things is involved. Antilock brakes are a perfect example, because they require a completely different type of stopping technique in panic situations. Over time, the huge challenges of making such a complex system work on a motorcycle (automotive tires have a totally different type of stress introduced in cornering compared with bikes, which effects traction and therefore braking) have been mastered, so except for a bit of extra weight, complexity and cost, it’s all good. So good have these binders become that even expert riders with awesome braking skills are satisfied with the amount of control they have with the latest ABS systems. Therefore, functionality is not compromised in the least, and the brakes are better. Years and years of testing have gone into this critical safety feature, and the result is a true technological improvement. But what of other technical advancements? Fuel injection is another winner in terms of no real downsides, but it does require more of an electrical contribution compared with carburetors, which required none (except for a few odd ducks that have/had fuel pumps, like my old Magna). This means if your battery is weak you’re further away from starting than you would be with carbies, and it could be the difference between riding off and dealing with a dead battery. Which reminds me: back in the dark ages when men still wore hats to the office I took my motorcycle test, and I did this deed on a Kawasaki borrowed from a friend. This machine was of the vintage when electric start was still infiltrating the moto world, and this bike had both an electric AND Continued on Page 46
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DECEMBER 2018 • BACKROADS
ON THE MARK MARK ByERS
Mist There was no sun. Rain fell sporadically from a lead sky and clouds lined the ridges, fingernails of mist clinging to the trees to keep the relentless wind from tearing them away. The spray kicked up by traffic made the windshield of the big, gray bike more translucent than clear and droplets collected on my visor. Thanks to the insert, the visor stayed blissfully clear of fog, unlike the outside world, where fog appeared and disappeared with no apparent foggy logic. Some places, the road was nearly dry, showing vestiges of previous showers, but on others, the road was a shallow pond with pockmarks of fresh rain beating down upon it. It wasn’t cold, but the lack of sun and the damp from the rain made the heated seat and grips most welcome accessories. We were an oddity: there weren’t any people afield on touring motorcycles where we were riding. Our rally colleagues left long ago to head in other directions before we began the slog home. People in cars looked at us quizzically, with the slight headshake that said, “Boy, those people are crazy to be riding in this weather - glad I’m in a car.” It wasn’t a storm, but one of those widespread fall fronts that you can tell is an “all-dayer” when there’s no sense waiting for it to pass: you must gear up, mount up, and ride, so ride we did. Thank goodness for our gear. Unlike the days of waxed cotton, or struggling into one-piece coated nylon rainsuits and rubber overboots, today’s riding gear is a minor miracle. Rubberized zippers close tightly and this magical fabric that is breathable, yet waterproof turns away the tide of droplets constantly seeking to invade our spaces. The same fabric lines our boots and gloves, keeping our extremities dry and warm against the onslaught of the mist. Periodic checks with my passenger were met with “I’m dry and I’m warm.” That’s always a good thing, because there is one immutable truth
about the magic fabric: it keeps water IN just as fervently as it keeps water out. After riding a couple hours, we took advantage of another important rainyday staple: a hot meal. There is just nothing in the world that helps defray the gray of a rainy day like a steaming bowl of homemade soup in a warm, bright diner. Chances are, if they have a good soup, then they have a good sandwich and it’s even money there’s pie to go with hot coffee or tea. Nothing warms your outside like a warm inside. We got the same quizzical or even incredulous looks from other diners and as we left, one woman said she’d pray for us. Hey, I’ll take whatever protection I can get. Unlike the prayer, our fabric protection took a while to reassemble into a waterproof ensemble, as jackets and pants were zipped up – and together and collars were secured around balaclavas (or baklavas as we deliciously misname them). Glove cuffs were tucked inside jacket sleeves and secured tightly with Velcro lest we feel the creeping icicles of invading moisture. There is nothing worse than feeling that first icy intrusion of water, especially in your nether regions, and knowing that you’re doomed to several hours of being a member of the “Soggy Bottom Boys.” Fortunately, the liquid invader never found a way into our Cordura fortresses. Our route choice spared us the Roman gladiatorial circus of the Washington beltway in favor of a more sedate route through rural Virginia. Drivers were even mildly considerate, perhaps out of pity for what they perceived was our rainy plight, but for us was merely an inconvenience. Either way, like the lady’s prayer, I’ll take what I can get. We crossed the high, arching bridge over the wide Potomac. The river was high and muddy, swollen with the dual effects of high tide and rainfall, marking the last thirty miles of our journey. The rain was relentless, coming in squally spasms to remind us that even close to home, nature would have her way. Soon we were home, our gear was hung, boots were shed, a pizza baked, and hot mugs of honeyed tea were in hand. Fed and enveloped in comfy clothes, we retired to our family room, where we enjoyed the other things that are a sure balm for a long, rainy ride: the warmth of a beloved dog and a real, wood-fueled fire. There’s nothing like a rainy ride, including the appreciation of a safe, warm, dry arrival.
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2018
BACKLASH Hi Brian, Claudia and I have been hearing about your article highlighting the Ramapo 500 in your October issue. Different HOG chapters, motorcycle clubs, riding groups and just fellow riders who either rode the 500 or read Backroads magazine all raved about your impression surrounding the entire event. We went out and got the October issue to see what everyone was talking about. You were right, it was a lot of hard work over the eight months that it took to set up the event along with all the hard work Claudia and the club had to do on the day of the event. I want you to know that we were moved reading the article. Our main objective this year was to bring back some of the challenge of the old 500s and to breathe new life into the event. Claudia did that on many levels. We are deeply grateful for your kind words and support. We will see you again next year. Respectfully, Kevin & Claudia Parrington Hi Mark, I have some thoughts regarding “License to Learn” in the October issue. How fast can a new rider reach expert level? As a trainer, that is a question I’ve been asking myself for a long time. My conclusion is that shorter growth periods can be achieved with motivation. Although nothing beats time in the saddle, proper interest in applying advanced techniques can really make a difference. Jon DelVecchio • Street Skills LLC Hi Shira, We just received your copy of the magazine and want to thank you for having us, Cowtown Rodeo, in the issue. It’s always nice to see and hear about any good times that were had at our rodeo. We wish you guys the best of luck and please don’t hesitate to stop back in next season. Thanks again. Robert Griscom • Cowtown Rodeo
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Letters to the Editor Shira, I shared this and another copy with all the wranglers on the ranch. They all loved it and a few were making plans to visit some destinations they read about, probably not on horseback though. Backroads can inspire beyond motorcyclists. Dwight Brian & Shira For several years I’ve kept a catalog of various destinations you recommended and all those I’ve tried have never failed to impress. Just before my 79th birthday, with about a thousand miles left on my tires, I needed a three-day getaway. The Flight 93 memorial appeared to be a good destination and the Jean Bonnet Tavern looked like a good place to stay and eat. Bingo! Next day I “vectored” south into West Virginia, across the Potomac over the famous “low water” toll bridge, then up to Shippensburg, PA to the Shippen Place Hotel. You have my sincere thanks for finding places like the Jean Bonnet and Shippen Place. Both were every bit as good as you claimed. I look forward to more excellent discoveries in the future. Jake Herzog Hi Shira, My wife and I are thinking of traveling to Nova Scotia next summer. I remember your article a while back regarding your trip. In addition, we’d like to travel utilizing the CAT ferry. I have a Harley CVO Limited and am a little apprehensive on how to secure the bike on the ferry. Do I need to bring tie downs or does the ferry supply them? I couldn’t find that answer. George & Lisa Kuhn Continued Page 9
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DECEMBER 2018 • BACKROADS
IN DU STRY INFOBITES PRESIDENT TRUMP AUTHORIZES EPA TO MAKE E-15 FUEL AVAILABLE YEAR-ROUND President Donald Trump has given the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) the authority to lift current restrictions on E-15 gas (containing 15% ethanol) to allow year-round sales of the higher ethanol blend. Following the federal rulemaking process and public comment period, the expanded sales are expected to begin during the summer of 2019. In 1978, a Clean Air Act waiver allowed the use of 10 volume percent ethanol in gasoline (E-10), and today almost all fuels are E-10 blends. In June 2011, EPA approved a partial waiver for blends of 15 vol% ethanol in gasoline for use in model year 2001 and newer passenger cars, light-trucks and medium-duty vehicles. However, the EPA does not approve the use of E-15 in small engines such as motorcycles or ATVs, and its use can damage vehicles and void manufacturer warranties. Currently, gasoline retailers throughout most of the country are prohibited from offering E-15 during the summer months. The President’s directive to the EPA is to change that.
DRIVER FOUND GUILTY OF HOMICIDE IN NICKY HAYDEN’S FATAL CRASH On May 17, 2017, a speeding driver struck renowned MotoGP motorcycle racer Nicky Hayden as he was riding a bicycle in Italy, tragically passing away from his injuries five days later. Nearly a year and a half later, we have learned that the driver was charged with murder. The unidentified 31-year-old driver at the wheel of a Peugeot 206 was re-
News from the Inside portedly driving at roughly 43 miles per hour (70 kph) in a 30 zone. Although Hayden was zipping down a crossing street and ran through the intersection, the judge in charge of the ruling considers had the driver respected the speed limit, he would have had time to react to Hayden’s presence. The driver has been found guilty of “road homicide” and sentenced to a year in prison. His license has also been revoked and he will be expected to pay all the court fees. The driver’s attorney has said they will appeal. The driver is not only facing a criminal sentence but also a civil lawsuit, as Hayden’s family is suing the driver for $6 Million, the maximum covered by the Italian insurance policy. Nicknamed “The Kentucky Kid”, 35-year-old Nicky Hayden began his career in MotoGP in 2003 with Repsol Honda and went on to win the MotoGP championship in 2006. He also competed in American dirt track racing, winning a few Grand National events. Hayden continued racing in MotoGP through 2015, competing for Ducati Team (2009-2013) and Aspar Honda (2014-2015). Hayden made the jump to the World Superbike Championship for the 2016 season, becoming the sole American in the series until his untimely death last May.
TRACK INCIDENT ENDS IN ITALIAN COURTS Moto2 rider Romano Fenati was disqualified after he astonishingly grabbed the brake of rival motorcycle racer Stefano Manzi at high speed during a mid-September race in Misano, Italy, and has since been banned for two races, the FIM racing authority suspended his license, and his team contract has been cancelled. But now the fallout from the disgraced racer’s brake-grabbing incident continues, with Italian news agency ANSA reporting he could face a charge
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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2018 of “private violence.” The Public Prosecutor of Rimini (in Italy) is said to have opened the investigation for the less serious charge, rather than that of “attempted murder.” “Private violence” is akin to a motorist cutting off another driver on the road. However, the use of such a charge for competitors in a motor race would set a very worrying precedent. Fenati pulled Manzi’s front brake after the pair had clashed repeatedly during their home race, and although extremely dangerous, both riders remained upright.
BDR TO SPONSOR ADVENTURE OUT! AT THE 2018-19 IMS The Progressive International Motorcycle Shows, an industry leader on connecting powersports’ leading brands with enthusiasts and buyers, announced that non-profit organization, Backcountry Discovery Routes® (BDR) will be the official host of Adventure Out! during the 2018-2019 IMS Tour. Adventure Out! is a space to learn, explore, and share the adventure of life on two wheels. The space debuted on the 2017- 2018 IMS Tour to encourage attendees to get out and ride, and features leading brands in the adventure and touring segments and guest speakers sharing stories about their experiences on two wheels. The first stop on the IMS Tour takes place November 16-18, 2018 at the Long Beach Convention Center. “At IMS we strive to give our attendees the full spectrum of what the motorcycling lifestyle has to offer and Adventure Out! is the ideal attraction to properly showcase the sense of adventure you get while living the adventure/touring lifestyle,” said Tracy Harris, Senior Vice President, Progressive® International Motorcycle Shows®. “To make Adventure Out! as exciting as possible we’ve partnered with BDR, an organization that is on the forefront of preserving the adventure/touring lifestyle and truly cares about getting people interested in motorcycling.” Adventure Out! will also feature a 360-degree virtual reality (VR) opportunity at all seven stops on the IMS Tour that offers attendees the opportunity to visually experience BDR routes at the show. The VR experience will take participants through key sections of Colorado, Arizona, and California based
Page 9 routes that include rugged-terrain, narrow paths, high-mountain roads, and vast landscapes, providing the thrill of an authentic adventure riding experience in a controlled environment. “The RideBDR team is happy to partner with The Progressive® International Motorcycle Shows® on Adventure Out! to help inspire people to find their own adventures exploring on two wheels,” said Paul Guillien, CoFounder, Backcountry Discovery Routes®. Some of the featured speakers at Adventure Out! include: Peter Starr, one of the pioneers of filming and televising motorcycle sport in the United States and Jocelin Snow, who has participated in road racing, flat track, hare scrambles, motocross, and supermoto competitions over her career, including the 2018 BMW GS Trophy Challenge. Companies signed on to exhibit in Adventure Out! this year include: Ayres Adventures, BikerBuddy, Butler Maps, Edelweiss Bike Travel, Mosko Moto, Motolombia, Renedian Adventures, Spot LLC, Toppers & Trailers, Touratech, Wolfman Luggage and more. To learn more about the 2018-2019 IMS Tour and Adventure Out!, please visit: motorcycleshows.com/content/adventure-out Backlash Continued from Page 7 Hi George, Here are links to both the Nova Scotia article and the Newfoundland one (more recent) in which we did go through Nova Scotia to get to the Newfoundland ferry. issuu.com/backroadsmagazine/docs/november17web issuu.com/backroadsmagazine/docs/destinationnovascotia With the tiedowns - the ferry does supply them but you have to do it yourself. Of course if you need some assistance there are folks there to help. We had no issues on any of the ferries, and there were plenty of other riders that were willing to help all around. If you have any other questions, don’t hesitate to ask - Nova Scotia is a wonderful trip and you’ll have a great time.
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DECEMBER 2018 • BACKROADS
Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTER IOU S A MERICA international cryPtozooloGy MuseuM 4 thoMPsons Point #106, Portland, Me 04101 cryptozoologymuseum.com We have been here before – but at another time and another place. We first introduced the International Cryptozoology Museum to our readers a number of years back. It was even a feature stop at a Fall Fiesta that found itself along the rocky Maine coast. Back then you would have found the museum stuffed into a space that never could do it justice. But on July 1, 2016 the ICM moved from downtown Portland to its new and larger home at Portland, Maine’s Thompson’s Point – conveniently next door to Bissel Brothers Brewing Company. My last time in the area I made it a point to drop by probably the most famous Cryptozoologist of our time, our friend Loren Coleman’s museum to see the new place and we were more than impressed. For those who do not know what Cryptozoology is, let me explain. Cryptozoology is a science that aims to prove the existence of entities from the folklore record, such as Bigfoot or chupacabras, as well as animals otherwise considered extinct, such as non-avian dinosaurs. Cryptozoologists refer to these entities as cryptids. Please don’t think we’re just talking the Loch Ness monster here – as new creatures are discovered, or re-discovered, all the time. In the early 20th century there were rumors of an enormous prehistoric lizard roaming a remote Indonesian island that were just that – ru-
mors - until 1910. It was then that Lt. Steyn van Hensbroek, a Dutch colonial official, put together an expedition and headed to Komodo Island, where he caught and killed a 6-foot beast. Van Hensbroek then sent the proof back to the Zoological Museum and Botanical Garden at Bogor, Java, which dubbed the species Varanus komodensis. We know it as the Komodo Dragon. Other creatures that are familiar were once believed to be about as real as a Sqounk’s tear. Creatures like the Okapi, Platypus and the Gorilla all were considered myths and fabrications of local legend and folklore. Maybe the Sqounk will show up too. The new museum includes exhibits about cryptids (beyond Bigfoot &
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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2018 Nessie). They feature displays about the finds of “living fossils” and other classic animals of discovery — the successful cryptozoological stories. One of the most famous, of course, is the coelacanth, as featured in the ICM logo. They have a 5.5 foot long, lifesize model of the first one taken off Africa in 1938 in the museum. I have a picture of the actual specimen taken while I was on tour in Africa with Notso Happy. The International Cryptozoology Museum has many rare and unique pieces of remarkable evidence. Some of the items on exhibit are actual hair samples of Abominable Snowmen, Bigfoot, Yowie, and Orang Pendek. Fecal matter from a small Yeti was collected by the Tom Slick-F Kirk Johnson Snowman Expedition of 1959, and the ICM’s sample has been featured on three television series: In Search Of, MonsterQuest, and Mysteries at the Museum. A footprint cast taken in 2001, during an alleged Thylacine encounter, is among the over 10,000 items on exhibit. But there is one other small item that links back to another story… Also to be seen at the International Cryptozoology Museum is a letter from the actor Jimmy Stewart. It is on display as he is linked to the Pangboche Yeti hand mystery. Was Jimmy Stewart not the man that was said to have handed the Minnesota Ice Man to Frank Hansen back in the 60’s- as we discussed in May 2018’s Mysterious America?
Page 11 It seems that in Nepal a monastery had relics of the past – two being the skull and hand of a purported Yeti. It is said that Texas oilman Tom Slick (really his name, I swear), after visiting the monks, stole part of the hand. In Calcutta he then ran into his friend, the actor Jimmy Stewart, who, just thinking he was helping a friend out, smuggled part of the hand to England, right under the nose of customs officials in his wife Gloria’s lingerie case. In those days’ British customs officers had a strict rule against touching women’s underwear, so the Stewarts stashed the finger in Gloria’s bras and went right through with no problems. After testing back in London the Zoological Society said the finger was indeed from a hominid, possibly from a Neanderthal. Hmmm, things get more and more interesting all the time in Mysterious America. Speaking of Mysterious America – Loren Coleman has a most excellent book with the same title (yes, Loren – you did have it first). It is well worth the read, and Coleman’s International Cryptozoology Museum in Portland, Maine is too. If you love the unusual, the odd and the truly enigmatic you must visit the new museum - it puts Mysterious America on the map. ~ O’Life out!
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DECEMBER 2018 • BACKROADS
Frontline Eurosports Presents
BIG CITY GETAWAY fairBanks MuseuM 1302 Main street, saint JohnsBury, verMont 802-748-2372 • www.fairbanksmuseum.org The best museums are not always in the big cities. Sure you have the Natural History in NYC and the Field in Chicago. Very nice. But we have found many nice Big City Getaways in the smaller towns and in unexpected places. Such was the case with a recent jaunt through Vermont. We were heading across the Green Mountain State, in the area called the Northeast Kingdom, and were passing through the town of Saint Johnsbury. This area is often referred to by Vermonters simply as “The Kingdom.” Because of its three-county extent, it includes several “gateway” towns; at the southeastern corner, St. Johnsbury, just a few miles from the New Hampshire border; to the north, Newport and Derby, close to the Canada–US border; and to the southwest, Hardwick and Danville. It got its name from Governor and U.S. Senator George Aiken who first used the phrase in a 1949 speech. It seems to fit well. Along the wide Main Street in the town you will find a stunningly built stone building created out of sandstone and limestone and laid in wonderful Richardsonian-Romanesque style. Welcome to the Fairbanks Museum… We found ample parking along the street and first took in the style and charm of the museum. It really is a beautiful building and a worthy place to possess one of the state’s greatest treasures.
daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind The Fairbanks Museum & Planetarium was founded in 1889 by St. Johnsbury industrialist Franklin Fairbanks, who spent a lifetime collecting natural science specimens, and is much more than northern New England’s museum of natural history — it is a place to marvel at the wonders of our world. Perfect for families, visitors and motorcyclists of all ages, the Fairbanks Museum readily encourages visitors to explore their universe. If the exterior of the Fairbanks impressed us, what we found inside blew
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2018 us away! Not only did it have so much to see the interior of the building itself was worth the look. High arched ceilings with two stories of exhibits that were incredibly varied and unique. The museum holds over 30,000 objects from an eclectic permanent collection, including natural science specimens, historical artifacts, archival photographs and documents, and ethnological treasures. There were some things to see that you will not see anywhere else on the planet. The Fairbanks Museum is home to the entire collection of mosaics known as “Bug Art” created by John Hampson. Using thousand of beetles, moths and butterflies, meticulously positioned on wood and lovingly framed, his creations are a unique reflection of this artist’s vision and precision. In addition to being visually exciting, this natural history collection is an important and irreplaceable record of biodiversity in various points in time. Some of the species represented in the collection are endemic and therefore only found in particular regions and nowhere else. Many are now threatened or endangered due to habitat loss or destruction. Some, like the Passenger Pigeon, are extinct. Significant collections include Philippine birds acquired from the reknown collector J.B Steere, which he collected during an expedition in 1874. The Fairbank’s collections include mounted specimens, fluid-preserved specimens, skin and osteological specimens as well as fossils. The museum’s invertebrate collections include insects, mollusks, corals, and
Page 13 sponges, very impressive as well. The Museum is also home to the Lyman Spitzer Jr. Planetarium, the only public planetarium in Vermont. Here you can journey through the cosmos, guided by one of the museum’s astronomy and weather experts. We took in a presentation on the planet Venus that was informative as well being presented in a fun and enjoyable way. We have been pointing out the planet almost every night now – Venuvian expert we are. Another thing that grabbed our eye was the Wildflower Table. As riders we pass thousand of plants and flower on every ride but rarely know what we are passing or even the plants’ names. The Wildflower Flower Table at the Fairbanks Museum & Planetarium is a living exhibit that reflects the abundance and diversity of flowers, grasses, berries, ferns and evergreens found in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom. It has been part of the Museum since 1903, when it began as a simple arrangement of vases set out by Museum staff. With time, the Flower Table has grown to include some 400 species displayed throughout the year, in both fruit and flowering stages. There were so may we recognized and now at least have a name to go with the flora. For the younger ones, or those young at heart you will discover the The Soucy Family Exploration Station which has 14 cutting edge exhibits, many designed in-house, inviting visitors to explore concepts relating to heat, weather, aerodynamics, electricity, and much more. We were surprised that these stations were full of adults – while the kids stood by shaking their heads. The Fairbanks Museum has something for everyone, young or old, and is a great way to spend an afternoon.
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G REAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN Backroads café & dairy Bar route 507/1048 Main st, neWfoundland, Pa 18445 570-216-1222 • oPen 7 days 6aM-9PM • find theM on faceBook We were just returning from the 2018 Ramapo 500 run when we got a message from our friend John with an image attached. Apparently he had passed this café along the route and asked if we knew about it. We had seen it on a previous ride but the café had relocated. We made note to pay it a visit soon. Soon came when we were returning from another Pennsylvania ride and decided to finish the last part of the Ramapo 500 route. Just about lunchtime, we saw the big yellow sign up ahead and pulled in to the Backroads Café & Dairy Bar for a bite. Country décor and friendly folks with tables enough for a good-sized group or just the two of us, we took a seat and a look at the menu. The Backroads Café serves up breakfast, lunch and dinner from 6am to 9pm daily (breakfast until 3pm). Christine and Dan moved the café from Gouldsboro and are serving up some seriously good dishes in their new digs. Starting with breakfast, you’ll find your eggs, bacon, sausage and such with the option of creating your own omelette to include a number of different meats, veggies and cheeses. There’s pancakes, French toast and waffles – sweet or savory – which can be piled as high as you like. For the health-conscious there’s oatmeal with the accouterment and daily specials to entice. Lunch will bring you burgers, hot and cold sandwiches and subs (hoagies, should you prefer that vernacular) as well as chicken or lamb gyro and a Monte Cristo that sounds delicious – turkey, smoked ham, homemade 1000 Island dressing and Swiss on grilled Texas French toast (I’ll take the check and a nap, please). If you’re running late and need some dinner, their menu includes pastas, chops, chicken, beef and fish with homemade soups, salads and sides. You can also get anything on the lunch menu for dinner. Of course, you should save room for dessert no matter what, as right next to the dining room is their ice cream shop serving Hershey’s ice cream as well as soft serve. You can indulge in cups, cones, milkshakes, sundaes or whatever creation your ice cream mind can come up with. This day Brian and I went polar opposite. He ordered a very healthy chef salad, which was piled high with all things that should be in a chef salad. I dove into the Texas weiner consisting of a Gutheiz weiner split and grilled with homemade Texas sauce, brown spicy mustard and grilled onions – it lit-
tasty places to take your bike
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2018
erally bestilled my heart and was finger-licking good. We found ourselves returning to Backroads Café during our Fall Fiesta this past September. It was time for a little leg-stretching break and, as if on cue, the bright yellow sign popped into view. We pulled in with our riding crew for a cup of coffee and a little nosh, which consisted of a variety of hot, buttered muffins, always a hit. Sated and revived, we continued on with a wave of a hand and a snapshot from Dan. It turned out we weren’t the only ones to take advantage of a great place to stop along our route, as more Fall Fiesta riders dropped in for a bite. Christine, Dan and crew do a super job of serving up some great homemade food in a comfortable environment. They are very motorcycle-friendly, have a large parking area and are located near some very tasty roads. We’ll do our best to get you there with a fun ride so you can enjoy your meal and return to the backroads.Here’s a 60-mile one-way route so you can have a stretch of the cables before your meal and then do some exploring on the delightful Pennsylvania roads that surround. You can download the GPX route here: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/63wqnx
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DECEMBER 2018 • BACKROADS
WE’RE OUTTA HER E
a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads
inn at BaldWin creek 1868 n 116 road, Bristol, vt 05443 802-453-2432 • www.baldwincreek.net rooMs BetWeen $125 and $295 – dePendinG on season Ahhh…New England during the fall colors - Vermont in particular. Nature’s crazy palette of oranges, yellows and reds burn into the once verdant green foliage and make for the yearly show. The main roads, though crowded during the weekend, are almost empty during the midweek and the cooler temperatures and chilly nights make for a perfect combination. It does not get much better. But it does. Let us tell you about a very special inn, right outside Bristol, Vermont, about mid-way up the Green Mountain State…The Inn at Baldwin Creek. Interestingly enough we had a slight connection with the inn already, as the family also owns the great ice cream shop Lu Lu that Shira featured last season. They also came highly recommended by our friend Eric Milano from MotoVermont, who runs a few of his tours from the motorcycle-friendly inn. The inn is also just minutes from Route 17 – the famed Appalachian Gap. A road well noted for its steep climbs, deep descents and technical twists and turns. As always ride with your head and not over it. When we arrived we were met by Laura, the woman behind Lu Lu, and given a quick tour of the inn. Built back in 1797, the Inn at Baldwin Creek offers 5 guest rooms which all include a farm fresh breakfast. Ours was called the Tree House and it was a sprawling place with two twin beds in the front gabled room and a sunken bedroom with queen-sized sleigh bed overlooking the gas fireplace built into the original chimney. The Tree House was well lit from all the natural light that is provided by its many windows and its two skylights. Private bath with shower and Jacuzzi tub were hot and strong and the towels a step above the norm – always a good thing. Right outside our room was their bottomless cookie jar and endless tea-coffee station, which can come in handy should you return from your ride just a bit peckish but too early for dinner.
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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2018
Other rooms included Martha’s Room, a cozy, quintessential colonial room, in true classic Vermont Farmhouse style. It captures the past while incorporating the present with a great view overlooking the front garden through the large bay window, and features a queen-sized bed plus a claw foot tub and shower. This is the perfect room for a romantic getaway, with plenty of charm. Laura’s Room is a smaller offering that features a cozy, Tuscany style queen-sized bed with a spacious private bathroom equipped with a claw foot tub and shower. The Garden Room, which is very pretty, especially when the flowers are in bloom. The Garden Room boasts tall ceilings and hand-hewn beams, a traditional four-poster queen bed and a small gas fireplace to snuggle up to. The last was The Maple Suite, a large two-room suite with king bed and sitting area and a small adjoining room with day trundle bed, which converts to two full sized twin beds, making this suite perfect for families or friendly riding groups. Along with the comfortable and cozy upstairs rooms, the Inn at Baldwin Creek also has its super restaurant – Mary’s. Down here you will find a large bar room – offering local beers, a superb wine selection and drinks which can be taken right outside to the comfortable rocking chairs on the porch. Here we met Linda Harmon, the owner who was kind enough to sit and talk with us a bit about the inn. We love it when innkeepers sit and chat. The restaurant itself runs a thin line between too nice and very comfortable, offering the best of both worlds. Since 1983, Mary’s and chef-owner Doug Mack, have been serving farm-to-table dining, emphasizing all local products, in the most wonderful way. Fresh food sourced from their on-site farm as well as other small, local farms is the framework upon which his culinary magic is built. To quote Vermont Magazine… “A visit to Vermont and missing Mary’s is like visiting Paris and missing the Eiffel Tower... the food at Mary’s is legendary” Menu offerings range from local, naturally–raised beef, pork, lamb, rabbit, venison and chicken to fresh fish and delicious vegetarian and vegan selections. Mary’s is a proud member of Slow Food Vermont, part of Slow Food International, an international organization dedicated to good, clean and fair food. Slow Food works to protect the world’s food and its food traditions. They certainly get this done here in the Green Mountain State. The morning found a stunner of a day rising in the Vermont Mountains and a stroll around the grounds with a hot cup of coffee was a welcome way to start the day.
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Doug Mack himself created our delicious breakfast that was both healthy and filling. Nice to meet and greet with the head chef. Shira opted for the deconstructed egg sandwich while I went for a hearty omelet. Both were accompanied by homemade scones, fresh jams and piping hot coffee. The Inn at Baldwin Creek is a real Vermont treasure offering quaint comfort, a bit of history and a wonderful ambiance. It is perfect for that special time when you and yours are looking for a romantic Vermont escape that you will remember for years or a small group of riding friends looking to explore the beauty of the Vermont mountains with a comfortable place to rest your head and have a special meal at the end of the day.
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DECEMBER 2018 • BACKROADS
The Law Office of Paul G. Gargiulo Presents
Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival Michael Delaney
exPiration date Last month we talked a bit about how altering a machine from the original factory specifications, particularly lowering things like suspension and foot pegs, can negatively affect the machine’s clearance height. This can contribute to bedlam and elevate, along with the bike, a good scare into a bad incident. I also brought up the need to work on your riding skills in a serious manner and how riding demi-gods like Marc Marquez’s riding skills, who seemingly can do the impossible, came from constant awareness, practice and application. The key word here is constant. I went to have some dessert the other night before settling in with Jay Leno and his garage and had poured a glass of milk from a container we had purchased just a few days earlier. I took one sip and knew that something was off. I checked the expiration date and it was still days away. Yet, I knew this milk was beginning to turn. How did this happen? When I bought it I thought it was good for at least a week. Some things can change in no time at all. It made me think of a trip I did a few months back, with a bunch of riders, along some interesting and a bit tough dirt roads.
Although I have years of semi-experience and have taken a number of courses on riding big adventure bikes, I seem to spend a lot of time working on my pavement skills and hardly no real time working on my off-road and gravel talents. It showed. I had passed by the ‘expiration date’ on the skills called for this day and needed to slow things down a bit and spend some time rebuilding what once came easily. I needed to get my dirt legs back. The key thought here is that we, as riders, must constantly work on our skills. Taking the time to lightly push your envelope makes you a better rider all around and, with that, comes better enjoyment of the ride. It also helps when you have the ‘yips.’ The yips are those one or two things that tighten you up and prevent you from moving forward with your skills – sometimes just moving forward on the bike. It can cause embarrassing and potential dangerous freezes. A riding buddy of mine is stellar on pavement, the track and while moving along on lightly graveled roads, as long as this rider is moving. But, this rider has a really bad case of the yips when it comes to getting the bike rolling once stopped on chip or loose stone. It gets worse if this situation is on a hill or a parking lot with deep gravel. At times I see her easily handle the situation and other times I have seen her totally freeze, unable to get the bike rolling where she wants or needs to go.
More than once I have had to park, dismount and get her to a more agreeable surface. Approaching her on this got me the ‘evil eye’ stare and cat-like hisses! If you have a feeling you need to work on a certain riding task, then you are probably right and you must do it – your friends can’t make you. But many, even though they might be aware of a yip, always seem to have an excuse to avoid dealing with the issue. They are surely cutting themselves short on this. The few times they have worked on this they have renewed fortitude and skill… But, come the next season their new talents have withered and spoiled over the winter and they are back to square one – they have crossed the expiration date on their skills by not working on them in a steady and constant manner. It is hard, but sometimes you have to face your demons head on and push past them. I promise you will come out a better rider at the end of it.
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cooPer’s cave ale coMPany and ice creaM 2 saGaMore st, Glens falls, ny 12801 • 518-792-0007 • cooperscaveale.com open year round @ 11:30am, 7 days a week except for a few holidays, like super Bowl sunday (they like to watch the game too) For our visit to Lake George and Americade this year, I wanted to find a different ice cream spot. I’d been to Scoop’s, Martha’s, Nina’s, S.J. Garcia’s and Bob’s (absorbed by the huge hotel now on Canada St). When I’m on a nice ride in the Adirondacks, I’ll stop by the Wind-Chill Factory in Ticonderoga, Lakeside Licks in Speculator or, for a super special treat, Wemple + Edicks in Johnstown. But I was searching for different with a little something for everyone. I do believe I found the answer in Glens Falls at Cooper’s Cave Ale Company and Ice Cream. Yup, you read that right – craft brew and homemade ice cream in one spot – BOOM! We planned our ride from Backroads Central to get us to Glens Falls just about lunch time, and this time our plan worked out just right. Cooper’s Cave is a bit off the main road of Glens Falls, situated on the Warren County Bikeway, former home of the rail line. There is street parking as well as a lot around back, which brings you closer to the ice cream window. Should you not know the history behind the name Cooper’s Cave, author James Fenimore Cooper was supposedly inspired to write one of his most famous novels, ‘The Last of the Mohicans’ by the cave that sits under the Cooper’s Cave Bridge, which connects the village of South Glens Falls and the City of Glens Falls. There is an overlook with lots of information about Cooper and the story, but the cave is best left to your imagination after reading the book, as a hydro-electric plant has pretty much taken over the location. Cooper’s Cave Ale, however, is definitely worth a visit. In addition to their craft brew and ice cream, they have a very tasty and extensive menu: soups, salads and starters (chili with Sagamore Stout, Strawberry Kale Salad and Beer-Steamed Mussels), sandwiches, wraps and tacos (Pulled Pork sandwich, Thai Falafel Wrap and fish, steak, chicken and vegetarian tacos) and burgers such as the Sagamore Street (roasted red peppers, spinach, feta and a side of garlic aioli). Should you need a more substantial meal, there’s Mussels Marinara, St. Louis Ribs and so much more.
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We settled on the salmon taco special with homemade chips and a James Fenimore Cooper burger with sautéed onions and crispy fries. Everything was delicious and, even though we finished every bite, we still had room for ice cream. On our way out back, we stopped by the retail shop where you can purchase a variety of edibles as well as Cooper’s Cave Ales and homemade sodas, and chatted with owner Patty Bethel. Edward and Patty Bethel started Cooper’s Cave Ale as a micro brew in 1999 and have continued to expand it to this day. They began home brewing in the 80s and eventually moved to
DECEMBER 2018 • BACKROADS this location. As Patty was quoted on what makes Cooper’s Cave Pub different from other pubs and breweries, ‘There’s no TV, no bottled beer and no BS.’ My kind of place. Once the Warren County Bikeway came about, their son Adrian thought it would be a good idea to serve ice cream to the folks using the trail – not that it mattered they had no experience with making ice cream. One thing led to another, and today Adrian, Patty and crew churn out small batches of ice cream daily in a variety of flavors. We sampled the nutty coconut (with Almond Joy and almond pieces), vanilla (made with pure bourbon extract) and cookies n’ crème (chock FULL of Oreo pieces). Some of the other flavors include Porter Vanilla, flavored with Cooper’s Cave Porter wort (no alcohol), Maple Walnut with real maple syrup and Chocolate Peanut Butter, their best seller. The flavors are spot on, especially the nutty coconut, with a great consistency. I was shocked to hear Brian say that his cookies n’ crème almost had TOO much Oreo in it. Of course you can get your ice cream in sundae, shake, split or float form. I can only imagine how good their ice cream sitting in a bath of their homemade soda would be. They offer a BIG variety of soft serve flavors, to be combined in any way imaginable, and for those avoiding lactose and/or calories, there’s frozen yogurt and almond milk swirl, which can also have any number of flavors added. If you happen to be in the Glens Falls region, do make a stop at Cooper’s Cave Ale Company for a meal or a sweet treat. If you are a regular to Americade, put this on your list for next year.
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‘Twas the Night Before Christmas - sort of
‘Twas the night before Christmas, when all through the house Not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse; The helmets were hung by the chimney with care, In hopes that St. Pridmore soon would be there; Happy & Pepe nestled all snug in their beds, While visions of road trips and hairpins danced in their heads; And Shira in her ‘kerchief, with a cat on her lap, Had just settled down for a long winter’s nap, When the morning approached there arose such a clatter, I sprang from the bed to see what was the matter. Away to the Christmas tree I flew like a flash, To find Happy & Pepe in a mad dash The sun on the breast of the new-fallen snow Gave the lustre of mid-day to objects below The hi-fi went on set the place to rock Happy & Pepe had found their box The two were chattering like puppets do We wondered if sometime they should be in a zoo Pepe then pulled out his sharp Kershaw blade and soon the wrapping paper was all but filleted
So now our two sidekicks have a ride of their own Along the backroads they plan to roam This Lego machine can be yours so quick When all put together it will surely look slick
Both of them were so lively and spry They knew in a moment it was their new ride A black box of Legos to spend with the day A new Technic GS to go on their way
The Lego BMW R 1200 GS Adventure took a good afternoon to build with over 603 tiny parts. We used their website and an iPad to help make sure we got things right for the boys.It’ll cost $59.99 from various sources along the web.
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Holiday Gift Ideas Big and Small Nolan N100-5 Today’s modular helmets do a superb job of offering protection and ease of use. This has been made easier by the introduction of the new Nolan N100-5 Helmet. The N100-5 is the new top-of-the-range modular helmet by Nolan. Its many features include the innovative ventilation system with Air Booster technology, its wide screen and the practical chin-bar opening system, called Dual Action. In addition, the N100-5 has the approval P/J, so that all lovers of touring can circulate with both the chin bar open and closed. It is available in a number of colors and graphics offering lightweight and great protection as well. With each series Nolan raises the bar. Available in XXS to XXXL for about $425.
Shield Wash and RainZip from National Cycle From National Cycle, the worldwide expert in windshield technology, come two products to help you get more miles out of your windshield and to help it do its job more effectively in all kinds of weather conditions. It’s the stuff we use on our own bikes – and we’re hard to please. Want bugs and grime on your windshield to melt away? Who else but the premiere motorcycle windshield manufacturer could develop the premiere windshield cleaner? Developed by their in-house chemist, National Cycle’s N1401-01 Shield Wash keeps your windshield ultra clean. It’s also great for helmet faceshields and goggles, and safe on practically any polycarbonate or acrylic windshield on the market. To keep your windshield clearer in rainy weather, National Cycle developed N1410-01 RainZip, a specially formulated rain repellent treatment that is safe to use on your Quantum hard-coated National Cycle Windshield or ANY motorcycle windshield, plus helmet faceshields and goggles.
RainZip is hydrophobic – when rain accumulates on your windshield, RainZip will cause it to effectively bead up and blow away, even at riding speeds of only 20-30MPH. It is always good to see where you are going. Available online for about $20 each.
Hyperpro Shock Investment in Superior Riding Shocks fade away like your hair disappearing. Suddenly it has just happens, which is why you make an investment in your suspension at a certain point of the bike’s life. Where the correct spring rate is essential for a correct performance of the motorcycle, the hydraulics, the shock absorber, needs to control the spring. That’s where Hyperpro Suspension Technology comes in, offering a variety of products for a wide range of motorcycles, purposes and for all kinds of riding styles. All Hyperpro shocks are supplied in the motorcycle’s standard length, but can also be ordered in a different length. If you do a lot of two-up riding, for instance, and/or with a lot of luggage, or if you are simply a light or more robust person, Hyperpro can adjust the shock to the correct weight settings. The Hyperpro
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emulsion shock has rebound adjustment with 50 clicks and manual preload adjustment. It has all the benefits of the high performance shocks. With a little down time coming during the winter, check into setting your ride up for the 2019 riding season – visit hyperpro.com/shocks
Vampliers Get a grip! Have you ever found yourself wishing you had a way to quickly remove a pesky, mashed-up screw or bolt? The Vampliers are made from carbon steel produced by Kobe Steel of Japan and feature a multitude of lateral and vertical serrations that help the pliers bite into rusted and damaged bolt heads. A useful addition to any toolbox. We have to tell you these pliers have saved us bucko bucks! $29.97 on the web.
TRiLIGHT ShopLight Striker Concepts’ new TRiLIGHT ShopLight combines the features of a shop light with the benefits of a droplight, to introduce to the market never before seen versatility and impressive light output. The TRiLIGHT ShopLight produces 3000 True Lumens of light from 3 aluminum LED heads. These aluminum heads are not only worthy of a design award, but they are also functional heat sinks. These heat sinks ensure the LEDs always operate at the lowest temperature possible, allowing the LEDs to operate at their highest performance level, while simultaneously safeguarding the LEDs lifespan. Halogen shop lights can leave severe burns if handled incorrectly, in comparison, the design of the TRiLIGHT ShopLight ensures it is never hot to the touch. Use the TRiLIGHT ShopLight with confidence, knowing it was constructed to be durable and survive a demanding work environment. The base includes a robust hook to hang the TRiLIGHT ShopLight high in your work space, or from the hood of a car, without the fear of the occasional fall or drop causing a break. Unlike traditional droplights and shop lights, the TRiLIGHT ShopLight was built to take a beating and keep on going. The TRiLIGHT ShopLight is available now at an MSRP of $129.99. For more information about the TRiLIGHT ShopLight, and the Striker Concepts product line, or visit www.strikerconcepts.com.
NikWax Leather Cleaner It had been a very wet and humid summer. Moisture seemed to be soaking into everything and with it came a bit of mold and mildew. Usually you can catch this as it happens, get the de-humidifier working and nip it in the bud. But, when doing a fall cleaning of the closets and garage, we came across some gear stored high on a shelf. A pair of heated gloves stashed in a plastic bag had taken on moisture which gave the mildew a little biosphere to propagate. When we examined them they looked like they were going to get tossed, but we thought we’d give NikWax Leather Cleaner a try on these. We had used this in our comparison a few months back with a tougher leather saddle but felt that it was really made for more supple stuff like gloves and jackets. With nitrile gloves on we handled the splotchy gloves and sprayed them down with the NikWax Leather Cleaner. We gave it a minute or two and went at one glove with a ‘soon to be tossed away’ rag. Voilà! Not only did it quickly remove the mildew, it left the glove looking better than new, soft and supple; as you can see from the image the NikWax Leather Cleaner worked better than advertised or expected. If wanted or needed you can follow this up with NikWax’s Leather Restorer or Waterproofing Wax as well. The NikWax Leather Cleaner sells for around $13 for a 10 oz spray bottle. For more tips and tricks on caring for your gear, please visit nikwax.com.
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DECEMBER 2018 • BACKROADS
words: Bri an Rathje n
• images:
Brian Rath jen
, Shira Ka mil
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We come from the land of the ice and snow From the midnight sun, where the hot springs flow The Immigrant Song – Led Zeppelin To Reykjavik, Iceland In the center of the north Atlantic, just below the Arctic Circle, at the confluence of the North American and European continents, there is an island nation that has a long history of exploration and progress. About the size of the state of Maine, the Icelandic landscape is shaped by the forces of nature and vary from deep fjords to vast volcanic deserts, gushing geysers, natural hot springs, as well as lava fields spreading as far as the eye can see. Iceland’s nature remains mostly unspoiled as the island is scarcely populated - with just 340,000 humans calling her home, 60% of those living in and around the capital Reykjavík that occupies a little over 1% of the total size of Iceland. was really designed as an ode to the sun and as a dreamboat for the viewer. Heading back along the Old Harbor we passed the Harpa, Reykjavík’s new concert hall, created from steel and colored glass to depict the basalt Icelandic landscape. Very beautiful - now that the sun was peaking out. We returned to the hotel to find our rooms and a deep naptime waiting. Our group consisted of a number of Americans, one German and a rider from Kuwait. We met in the lobby that evening where our Edelweiss guides, both named Michael (one was shortened just to Mike), gave us an overall briefing on the tour: what to expect and the various road surfaces we would encounter. Most of Iceland’s roads are gravel, so we’d be doing a lot of unpaved riding along this tour. After taking the keys to our ride for the next 10 days – a BMW R1200 GS Adventure – we had a welcoming meal and then Shira and I strolled to the west side of the harbor to watch the Icelandic sunset at 9:30 that night.
Our nighttime flight from New Jersey was 5 hours – just enough time to try to catch some sleep before landing in the early morning hours (2 am back home) and shuttling the 30 miles to the northernmost capital in the world. Our room was not ready, so we stowed our gear and took off for a morning walk about Reykjavík. The city reminded me of many coastal working towns, (Ushuaia came to mind) with many low buildings and narrow streets and surrounded by stunning scenery that seemed to stretch for miles – which it did, as we would see on this journey. We found a small local restaurant where we had a breakfast sample of local smoked trout, salmon and eggs before continuing around the town. There was plenty to see. Always on the lookout for the ultimate cultural offerings a city would have, I talked Shira into a visit to the Icelandic Phallological Museum. Home to the greatest collection of penii in Europe, perhaps the planet, with more than 200 penii and penile parts belonging to almost all the land and sea mammals that can be found in Iceland, including whale, polar bear and, yes, human. One for O’Life I am sure. From there we thought we should go to church. In a land of low and tiny churches the Hallgrímskirkja, standing at nearly 250 feet tall, is the largest and tallest church in Iceland, and it dominates the Reykjavík skyline. We strolled to the waterfront, and past the Sun Voyager sculpture by Jón Gunnar Árnason. Although you might first think this a Viking long ship it
Reykjavik to Selfoss There were a few small issues that needed tending to on a few of the bikes this day, so while the Mikes handled all that, we took a leisurely breakfast and, by mid-morning, we were all geared up and rolling out of Iceland’s capital. Our ride would bring us south and west towards Reykjanesskagi peninsula and one of the most active volcanic parts of the island nation. We rode for miles through lava fields, with the terrain looking almost alien. Our first stop was the point of two titanic forces of nature meeting - the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates. Here the mid-Atlantic ridge runs directly under Iceland and you will find a small footbridge that crosses over a fissure in the blackened land. The bridge was built as a symbol for the connection between Europe and North America. Certainly a ‘digital’ moment if there ever was one.
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Back on the bikes we rode to Krýsuvík, which consists of several geothermal fields, with steam and geysers spewing unendingly into the sky. As we rode closer the strong smell of sulfur filled the helmets. I wondered to Shira what was the attraction for the Norse back when they settled this place? The ground, where not strewn with volcanic debris, took on yellow, red, and green hues and was hot to the touch. In the distance we could see a lighthouse and far behind that - Eldey – a sheer massive rock skerry that rises hundreds of feet out of the ocean and is home to thousands of Gannets and, Shira would hope, Puffins. We walked to and through the steady plume of steam – getting fairly well soaked as we did.
Our guide, Michael, brought us along the coast to a small restaurant that served some seriously tasty soups – lamb or lobster - and then we swung back to the Blue Lagoon – which is pretty to see, but was a bit too trendy, touristy and hip for our tastes. We followed along through the lava fields and made a stop at Seltún, another geothermal highlight with a path and boardwalk meandering through dozens of mudpots and fumaroles. As you would think everything was well marked as hot and dangerous – yet all were free to explore as we wished – it is good to see common sense instead of common fence. From here the road got twisty and fun, with pristine pavement unti that came to an end and we rode into the first of many miles of gravel road. In the distance, way in the distance, we could see the mountains still heavily snow covered. The ice part of Fire and Ice was coming as we rode into what Icelanders call ‘The Golden Circle.’ Our lodging
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for the night was pleasant and comfortable and the hotel’s restaurant outstanding. Last night’s sunset was superb, but this night’s ‘Deathstar” half moon was spectacular. Selfoss to Saudarkrokur I know what your thinking… How do you pronounce Icelandic names? Beats us, so when we were traveling alone we had a card with written directions and did our best phonetically. We would make a few more geothermal stops on this day – the first being Geysir. Here it is pronounced ‘gayser’, not ‘geyser’ as we do.
Michael told us the old gayser used to shoot very high into the air, but has not for many years due to an earthquake shifting the ground underneath, but the much younger gayser could spurt many times each hour. Well, goody for him. We all passed looks at each other as our guide continued – trying not to let out a peep. I thought I would drop from not laughing. In truth the region was the first geyser to be described in a printed source and the first known to modern Europeans and the English word geyser derives from this point. The younger of the geysers – amusingly called Strokkur (it means churn, stop laughing) – did erupt many times while we were there, throwing steam and hot water nearly 75 feet into the air. Another true wonder on this day’s meander was the
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Gulfoss, one of the most magnificent waterfalls either of us had ever seen. Fed by the Langjökull glacier the Hvítá, or White River’s, water plummets down 100 feet in two stages into a rugged canyon whose walls reach over 200 feet in height. The story of Sigriður Tómasdóttir and her fight to save this mighty waterfall over 100 years ago has become an Icelandic legend and is well worth reading. This day’s journey, and it was a journey, would cut up directly from the south to the northern part of Iceland, mostly through heavily volcanic regions flanked with glaciers and along the first of many F-roads.
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Still, the 100 miles of this began to wear on many of us, and after lunch it got a bit worse as one sharp rock had sliced through the tire and tube of one of the F 800 GS’. Guide Michael tried in vain to repair it, so we eventually ended up swapping a bike and having one of the group lead by GPS toward the hotel, which was still another 50 hard miles north. All this while we saw the temperatures drop steadily as we made our way north. As the Edelweiss van circled back to retrieve Michael and the now lame machine, Shira and I let the group head out and took our own pace along some spectacular scenery. There was even a good 20 miles stretch of decent graded gravel and I found the bike did have a 4th gear. Along the way we were passed by Mike in the van and soon crossed a onelane miniature version of the Brooklyn Bridge onto the Ring road towards the town of Sauðárkrókur where our room and a hot soak in the thermal pool was waiting. Saudsrkrokur to Akureyri The hammer of the gods
We’ll drive our ships to new lands
To fight the horde, and sing
and cry Valhalla, I am coming! This day, compared to the previous, would be short on miles but big on smiles as we would stick, more or less, to the coast on a mix of finely paved roads that, on occasion, turned into gravel along the cliff side that tends to tumble down onto the road every now and again. Unlike the previous days that saw fair weather, this morning the Norse Gods frowned upon us as the now colder temperatures were mixed with a chilling mist as well. We had brought heated gear with us and today was the day to put it to use.
Iceland’s F-roads are mostly a lane and a half of gravel and/or rock, with old chunks of volcano added in to make it even more enjoyable. Here the F is either for ‘Fun’ or F#!*ked, depending on your attitude and skill level. It seemed to me that we were in the company of some excellent riders and with Shira and I two-up, on a machine with a nearly 8-gallon fuel cell, we wisely stayed in the back, not looking to get in anyone’s way and to set our own pace. We learned a long time ago that you don’t have to go fast… just far. For those who know us, you’re aware we are not timid of gravel and the like – when it is a part of the ride. But, on this day and a few others of the Fire & Ice Tour, the gravel and off-road adventure ‘was’ the ride and most of the riders who were here came along to ride gravel in one of the most wondrous regions on the planet. Edelweiss certainly came through on this. We stopped at another geyser system called Hveravellir, nestled between the two glaciers, Langjökull (Long) and Hofsjökull (Temple) that had been our riding companions for a good part of the day. We strolled around the tiny pools of bubbling waters and fumaroles, all with the now familiar perditions’ stench, and lunch was simple, but filling.
On the way we stopped to view some olden Icelandic buildings constructed of peat moss and thatched with growing grass on the roofs - this is considered by many as the purest example of ancient Icelandic architecture and they were built exactly as the Norse settlement we rode to at L’Anse aux Meadows in the north of Newfoundland last year. We swung around the fjord under brightening skies on some seriously fun
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roads that hugged the coast with great sweepers and greater views. We stopped for some coffee at the old Immigration House and to take in the coast before pushing onward to the old fishing village of Siglufjörður – once the herring capital of Iceland before overfishing collapsed it in the late 1950s. Although the town itself has diminished in population of the last few decades, they still embrace their fishing heritage and the museum was well worth the stroll through. We took lunch along the water – with a mix of seafood salads, a taste of herring and the best ‘fried potatoes’ we have ever had. Our group seemed to be happy to run at Marquez-pace this day and that was never our plan, so we split off from them and took a more leisurely ride back along the ocean and then along a stunningly beautiful gravel road that cut through a low mountain pass towards the small town of Ólafsfjörður. This town was reachable only by sea or by the pass road we had just ridden until a few decades back before the series of tunnels were cut through the mountains. Still today the town exudes a wonderful Icelandic charm and is the only village I have ever seen with its own public ski jump in the middle of the town park. We caught up with the group as we entered Akureyri and then rode over to the Motorcycle Museum of Iceland, which was far more impressive then we thought it would be, with an eclectic collection of machines from different eras and nations. Many of them looked like runners and were probably machines you might have ridden or owned in the past. We finished the day under, once again, clear skies, took our hotel room and headed out to explore Akureyri, the second largest city in Iceland and considered by many as the prettiest. We walked the town and climbed the 100 plus stairs to the church with its commanding view of the town and then found our way to the botanical gardens which, even in mid-August and this far north, were very impressive. Shira spent some time scanning the waters and cliffs – although I did not know why. “Whatcha lookin’ for?” I asked. “A puffin” she said - sadly shaking her head and walking away. Akureyri to Husavik We once again lucked out with very un-Icelandic weather and we headed to another spectacular waterfall called Godafoss. Here the waters of the Skjálfandafljót river crash into the volcanic rocks in an impressive fashion. But there is deep Icelandic religious history to be found here.
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A millennium ago Iceland was very limited in trade with other parts of Europe as they were still worshipping the Norse Gods of old – and the rest of Christian Europe wanted little to do with them. So, in the year 1000 the Lawspeaker Thorgeir Thorkelsson made Christianity the official religion of Iceland. After his conversion Throkelsson threw his statues of the Norse gods into the Godafoss’ tumbling waters. Although this was done symbolically and the people still worshiped whom they wished, it opened Iceland up to more and faraway trade. This led to the second major factor in the lawspeaker’s decision; that Iceland was then part of Norway and King Olaf Tryggvason had recently become a Christian. The King’s conversion meant that many Icelanders decided they, too, would convert, thus threatening a civil war in the country. Thorkelsson’s decision to forgo his own beliefs was seen as a means of avoiding said violence, with the stipulation added that Icelanders were still free to worship the Norse Gods, as long as it was undertaken in secret. Today Iceland is a Christian island, but in its heart and soul they still live under the watchful eyes of Odin.
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We then made a, thankfully, brief stop at the truly named place along a large shallow lake and then for a coffee stop along the odd volcanic formations. Although there are no mosquitoes in Iceland they do have a pest - the midge - a tiny flying insect that is as Icelandic as the puffin or the sheep. The lake Mývatn is named after them, its name literally meaning “midge lake”. Beautiful – now let’s go. It was here that the band broke up. Some headed on a long 300+ kilometer ride to the northernmost point on the island, others around another mountain pass to approach our night’s layover in Húsavík from the east, while Shira, a few others and I followed another road that would, eventually, approach from the west. We knew that a good deal of this would be unpaved, but so far so good, and we were not concerned. We might have been, as Iceland’s gravel roads are one thing, but their construction zones are another beast entirely. After about 10 miles of tightly packed 4th gear gravel I came over a rise into a long stretch of deep baby head rocks. I quickly tried to down shift, scrub off some speed, and then get up on the pegs and back on the gas. Eyes up, heart pounding. This route had a series of these baby head stretches that went on for far too long for my liking. But, we all muddled through – even though it weren’t pretty. We rolled into Húsavík by early afternoon, found a super harbor side lunch and then some went whale watching, while the others took in the Whaling Museum, which was fascinating by itself, although Shira was deeply disappointed in not seeing a live Puffin. I was not aware of my wife’s Puffin fascination, but it is always nice to be surprised. By that evening the band was back together, with all having a story to tell. Humpbacks and Blue Whales, deep sand traps and mountains that needed to be ridden to the top of… it is all part of the allure of a motorcycle journey like this. There were no Puffins. Sigh. Husavik to Egilsstadir We would leave our furthest point north and ride to our most eastern town on the trek – Egilsstadir; a town that has its own lake monster and, if you read Backroads, you know we will not leave this out. But first we’d ride across the Mid-Atlantic Ridge once again, this time from the North American to the Eurasian continents at Ásbyrgi. Here lives the 15-mile long Jökulsárgljúfur, or Glacial River, Canyon in the northeastern part of Iceland. The canyon is beyond stunning and horseshoe in shape, about a mile across with tower cliffs of nearly 400 feet. Throughout thousands of years, the river has shaped its path with water and devastating floods from the melting glacier in times of eruption and still changes to this day with Ice-
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land’s volatile eruptions and activity. This sits just a short gravel road ride from the series of waterfalls including the monstrous Dettifoss. It seemed each day there would be a waterfall, or Foss, of the day. Here it was like the Grand Canyon had met up with Niagara Falls – it was almost beyond words. Easily the most powerful waterfall in all of Europe (some might say it is right up against North America, but I am splitting hairs here) it dumps over 150,000 gallons of water over its edge… per second!
One of the group had no desire to attempt the rock track and neither did Shira, who hopped off the GS and let me go play with the other kids for a bit – Thank you honey! We picked the Ring Road back and swung at a steady and quick pace on the paved road to the town of Egilsstadir – home of Lagarfljótsormurinn, the Wyrm of Lake Lagarfljót!
Almost as equally amazing is that you can walk right up to this torrent and touch it. Again, unlike here in the USA, there is a “common sense, not common fence” approach. In the United States there would be a gate, a hefty entrance fee, a bus and a lawyer all on stand-by. From here we spent a good part of the day riding high atop the ancient volcano desert which gave us the feel of journeying along some alien world. Mike brought us up along some two-track - that seemed to get tighter and slicker – which really pleased us to no end. But, the payoff was worth it and there was even another side trip up a few miles of rock track to a long pile of glacial terminal moraine, sitting like a large boulder wall built by some Asgardian Titans of the past.
This beast, or whatever it is, has been reported since Europeans arrived in Iceland, with documented sighting starting in 1345 all the way to a very convincing video shot in 2012. We’ll have to see what O’Life has to say about this. While I asked about the Wyrm, Shira inquired about the chance of any Puffins along the lake. We were told that they are sea birds and wouldn’t be found along the mountain lake. She walked away defeated by the lack of the cute little fowl, but her spirits were lifted by a number of Icelandic horses – tiny, pony-size and far too cute and good looking – these horses look like they were designed by a 7-year old little girl. Egilsstadir to Hofn Once again it seemed that the shorter days were big on adventure. This was the first day we’d have true Icelandic weather along for the ride all the day. Misty, wet, cold – we all suited up accordingly. We looped the long lake ever searching for the Wyrm, but saw massive volcanic cliffs, laced deep with iron ore. Our group chose a ‘short cut” over the mountain called the Oxi Pass. The road to the summit is called Axarvegur and it is a narrow and steep gravel mountain road with sections up to 17% grade. We zigzagged our way up along this way that rode in and around dozens of steep waterfalls and
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some very striking scenery of rocks, boulder, hawkweed, wooly willow and eventually into the deep clouds. This is where things got a bit more interesting as it was just Shira and me, as we tend to hang back from the crowd, and soon we were slicing into the mists that shrouded the peaks and into the riding equivalent of a twowheeled Twilight Zone. Yep, this was adventure… we think. We were high atop an ancient mountain in the middle of Iceland, with zero visibility, soaking conditions and a wet, slick and questionable road surface with a series of tight turns approaching as we descended. I wondered aloud if this was the worse we had ever ridden through. Shira responded to me over the intercoms that it could be worse – at least this time there were no gale-force winds trying to knock us down, that we had heated gear and the bike was still going forward! But, we still had to worry about the occasional car heading our way, as they would appear from nothingness and were, more or less, in the same boat as us. Things got clearer on the easternside and we picked up the Ring Road once again that had large sections of unpaved surface as well. Here the Earth moves so much in spots that paving is simply futile.
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We took lunch along a seaside restaurant and then headed south. Thousands of seabirds call this region home, with the Norwegian Sea to the east and the mighty cliffs to the west above the shore. Miles of Whooper Swans and Arctic Skua and Terns filled the ocean and the cliffs. We rounded one sweeper and I watch an Arctic Tern banked its flight and headed across the road – on a collision course. There was nothing I could do as the sea bird came in from the right and slammed into the bike with an explosion of bird and feathers. The bike took a slight wobble, but we had momentum on our side. We made a U-turn, but knew what we would find. I apologized to the Icelandic gods and rode a bit less enthusiastically for a long while – deeply thankful that it was not a Puffin. Just before the next town we spotted ‘The Red Chair’ bolted high on a tall rock on the coast side of the road – one of those odd roadside things that people do for whatever reason. We read about it on Atlas Obscura and it brought back the happy mood that had flown west with the dead Tern. All was good again in the land of Fire & Ice. We reached Höfn on the early side and took to exploring the coastal town that lies in the shadow of Europe’s largest glacier, Vatnajökull, and volcanoes that live beneath her.
One in particular, Grímsvötn, had erupted repeatedly in modern times and it was because of this that it took Iceland decades to complete the Ring Road. This volcano is second in size only to Sicily’s Mount Etna. Grímsvötn has erupted again and again and with the eruption comes the possibility of the real danger along the eastern parts of this island, a jökulhlaup. This is an incredible torrent of melted glacial waters that can burst from the eruption, larger in volume than any river on the planet save the Amazon, that simply sweeps through the plains below taking all in its path. It is an ever-perilous situation. Hofn to Kirkjubaejarklaustur Vatnajökull is enormous, grabbing 1/8 of the map of Iceland. We first did a short ride to one part, to see the glacier up close, but then Edelweiss had bigger plans for those who wished. Just south of the town of Höfn was a road that would wind about 15 miles up towards a part of the Vatnajökull that reached down towards the sea. The truck would stay behind, as would Shira. Unlike any of the other excursions, on this one the guide would ride shotgun, just in case there was trouble. I would think everything on this trek led up to this ride to the top of the
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mountain and the waiting Vatnajökull. First and second gears, driving ever upward… steep inclines and hairpins leveled out to a plain with more gentle slopes. My thought was not to think on the entire ride up the mountain but, rather, take it in chunks and kick the ball, or the bike, down the road with each one. Atop the peak the view opened up to a long tongue of the Vatnajökull. There was a building atop the mountain and there was even snowmobiling onto the glacier for some lucky folks. The enormity of this place quickly sunk in and taking a deep breath and scanning the ice, the sky and land, as corny as it sounds, I felt I had finally ridden into Iceland. On the way down the group rode ahead, kind enough to let me play photographer, and I rode the 15 miles back down by myself, which was a bit tougher than the charge up. Eventually Happy & Pepe told me to stop taking pictures, or I’d never get down to the Ring Road. Unlike my wife, my new best friends on the planet waited for me to ride out and we charged south to the Glacial River Lagoon, called Jökulsárlón (I had long given up on pronunciation) the still, blue waters are dotted with icebergs calved from the glacier. The Glacier Lagoon flows through a short waterway into the Atlantic Ocean, leaving chunks of ice on a black volcanic
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sand beach. In winter, the fish-filled lagoon hosts hundreds of seals. Even here in August the seals abounded and, as always, were a highlight. Shira went fishing for a chunk of ice and came back with a beauty; tasting water that had frozen thousands of years ago was fairly amazing and we brought the large chunk back to the hotel for cocktails later that night. We had two more stops – one we could have done without as it involved a bombed out road to another part of the glacier that had more craters than the moon. I felt like I was riding through a war zone, but the real victim was Shira who had to hold on as the BMW’s suspension got tested to its limits. The cliffs are hexagonal columns of basalt, topped with cube-jointed basalt, shaped like a horseshoe. Inside the cliffs are home to both dwarves and elves, according to folklore. But, mind you, quite a number of Icelanders still believe it to be true and the rest can’t prove it isn’t. So there you go.
By late afternoon we made our way to Kirkju…. Kirkjubæ…K-Town, our stop for the night. Outside our hotel there was a small building with a round dome, flanked by two flashing yellow lights. I asked what it was and was told it was an air monitoring system. The threat of another Laki eruption is always a danger, and Iceland constantly keeps a close eye on the quality of the air in this region – the next day we would learn why. Later that day some went on to do a little recon as the next day, for some, would be a long F-road day with multiple river crossings, as Iceland has never gotten around to building bridges along many of these roads. Not wanting to be an anchor, we thought we would pass on the F-roads through the mountains and opted for our, always wonderful, Plan B and loop around the coast. We were fairly sure we’d have a great adventure regardless.
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Kirkjubaejarklaustur to Hella How soft your fields so green Can whisper tales of gore Of how we calmed the tides of war We are your overlords Iceland and mankind might try to take the land, thrive and prosper – but it is nature that rules this part of the planet - that is the true overlord. The basalt rock and the intense volcanic pressures found here have had ramifications around the world time and again, but nothing in mankind’s history can match the destructive power of an event that took place right here along this stretch of the eastern Icelandic coast. In 1783 a series of volcanoes, over 8 months, changed the world forever. The Laki eruption was not like other volcanoes of which you think. Skaftáreldar, the local name for this event, is considered one of the greatest and most poisonous eruptions in recorded history. Walking down along the giant sea caves and basalt columns Shira glanced up and let out a squeal of delight…. “Puffins!” Indeed there were hundreds of the little delightful birds on the cliffs and darting into the sea to come back with beaks full of small fish! Oh, happy day! Thank Odin! If I had a treat the previous day riding to the glacier, Shira got her pure Iceland fix with the Puffins. Now, if I could only find her that unicorn. Puffins are a cute and unusual bird and along with their funny waddling walk and appearance, Puffins have been nicknamed ‘sea parrots’ and ‘clowns of the sea’. The Icelandic nickname of the Puffins is ‘prófastur’ which means preacher; due to their ‘dressing’.
There was no giant explosion, rather a slow and steady venting of poison gas from the Earth. Unlike high volume silica eruptions (more common) these low energy, large volume, long duration basaltic eruptions spewed Massive (Capital M and Underlined!) amounts of hydrochloric acid and sulfur dioxide from over 120 vents, along a 20 mile row, that traveled around the planet. In Iceland, over 20,000 people died - 25% of the nation’s population, there was massive livestock loss and the population of Reykjavík dropped to under 200. The temperature that winter in the eastern United States fell by more than 8 degrees below average and ice was reported in the Gulf of Mexico. Japan’s rice crop failed causing the worse famine in the nation’s history and the poison cloud blocked the sun in Syria. Acid rain damaged forests throughout the planet. The crop loss in France led to public unrest and, eventually, the French Revolution. The Laki eruptions changed the world and can show us how a volcanic eruption in the far northern island of Iceland can affect the entire planet. Our ride began rolling south along the Ring Road and through the Laki lava fields called Eldhraun. The remains of the deep lava beds are covered with green moss everywhere around you, making the landscape magical and mysterious at the same time. Amazing that something so deadly to the planet could now look so surreal and peaceful. Team Gonna Get Wet headed into the F-road and four of us on three machines continued ever southward, along the coast, making a stop at the black pebble beach of Reynisfjara.
We rode to the southernmost point of Iceland and then just a touch further down the road we parked the bikes and took a 4-kilometer hike towards the black beach, just south of the town of Vic, in search of a downed US Navy DC3 that ran out of fuel and crashed on the black beach. Later it turned out that a crewman had simply switched over to the wrong fuel tank and they were unable to get her going again. The sharp pilot (aren’t all Navy pilots sharp?) thought the beach would work well for the moment – and it did just that. Fortunately, everyone in that plane survived, but the Navy just left the ditched plane where it had stopped sliding and what remains of its carcass still lies in a sharp silvery contrast to the stark black beach. The hike in and out took nearly two hours (I know, said Mr. I Hate to Hike) and we got to lunch at the thunderous Skogafoss waterfall just as Thor thundered and some hard rains began to fall. Timing is everything and while we ate it rained itself out and the rest of the ride to Hella was under ever brightening conditions.
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To our right we could see Eyjafjallajökull – the volcano that caused so much air travel havoc back in 2010. When it erupted its ash cloud forced 20 nations to close their airspace to commercial jet traffic - and it affected approximately 10 million travellers. We remember a friend being trapped in London for weeks before she could return home to the United States. We arrived in Hella in the late afternoon, soon followed by ‘Team Kick Ass’ – all full of smiles and tales of mighty river crossings, massive waterfalls and roads from Hell itself… basically the normal evening bar side chatter that you will hear at the end of the day of any motorcycle event. This would be our last night on the road and that fact began to settle in on many as dinner came around. Hella to Reykjavik So now you’d better stop and rebuild all your ruins For peace and trust can win the day despite of all your losing This morning would be our last bit of the mountains of Iceland as our route took us quickly off the coast and a brief stop at the Kerið Crater, at just 3,000 years old, a fairly young volcanic crater lake. Even here plant life fills the crater. When you consider how much damage and destruction Iceland faces from the combination of glacier and volcano it is remarkable how quickly the land can recover. In many places verdant fields, lying in stark contrast to black basalt lava fields, return soon the mayhem Mother Earth can throw down. Towns that have been buried, burned or swept away are rebuilt and the people return. Throughout their history the people of Iceland are nothing if not determined and resilient. Speaking of their history - we then vectored towards one of the most historic places in Iceland – Þingvellir. No single place epitomizes the history of Iceland and the Icelandic nation better than Þingvellir by the river Öxará. At Þingvellir - literally “Parliament Plains” - the Alþing general assembly was established around 930 and continued to convene there until 1798. Major events in the history of Iceland have taken place at Þingvellir and, therefore, the place is held in high esteem by all Icelanders. Today Þingvellir is a protected national shrine. We were getting close to Reykjavík, and wanted to stretch the day out a bit, so we rode around the long inlet and stopped to see the War and Peace Museum in Hvalfjarðarströnd. The road this way could have been given the same name as, once again, it was Icelandic road construction that would be the foil. A layer of deep volcanic sand covered with a layer of deep fist-size rock. Sooooo much fun, I tell ya! But, there was a huge payoff as the completed miles of the road offered the sportiest riding we yet experienced on the island with pristine pavement, great hills and twists. We could have ridden this all day, but we had one last stop to see on the journey. The region was peacefully occupied by Allied Forces
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in World War II and was key in many ways to our eventual victory. The museum is very laid back and remarkably fascinating and amazing in so many ways. We were served a lunch of simple, but delicious tomato soup, eggs, bread, cheese and butter and with vintage music playing in the background it almost felt like time travel. As informative and compelling as the War and Peace Museum was, it was also a bit dampening to the spirit on this last day – as war just seems to drain humanity whatever the circumstances.
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2018 We returned to the bikes and let the scenery, road and Icelandic wind lift back our spirits as we sailed smoothly in the capital - an amazing 10 days of touring the land of fire and ice rolling to an end. Final thoughts Edelweiss’ Icelandic Adventure Tour – Fire & Ice – is, without doubt, one of the most impressive tours we have ever done. From the rugged coastline into the seeming endless glaciers and around the stupendous volcanoes the island nation almost causes a visual overload! The trip itself is aimed more at the adventure rider who is looking to cross that endless horizon – so, if you plan on this ride, know you will be on miles of gravel, some easy and some not so much. This tour is not for the Sunday motorcycle rider and, after finishing this two-up, I would also decidedly recommend not doing this with a passenger. This is a trek best ridden solo.
Iceland is also expensive, (Tour prices start at $7,290) and though your tour package includes motorcycle, hotels, breakfast and dinners - everything else, including fuel, is on you – and Iceland is one of the priciest nations in the world. Still, if you are looking for a ‘trip of a lifetime’ (I do not say that easily), then this just might be the one. Head to the land of Fire & Ice and you too might join the chorus… Ah-ah, ah! Ah-ah, ah!
www.edelweissbike.com
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DECEMBER 2018 • BACKROADS
Holiday Gift Ideas Big and Small Corbin Custom Saddle As great as machines are these days, there still seems to be a disconnect between what manufacturers offer and what customers expect when it comes to saddle comfort. Enter Corbin Custom Saddles. We fitted our Suzuki V-Strom 650 with their Canyon Dual Sport mount a few months ago and have to say, it has been a pleasure from day one. Delivering a quality product constructed of the finest materials available has made Corbin the number one manufacturer of motorcycle saddles for five decades. The VStrom Canyon Dual Sport saddle is a perfect example of this combination of form and function. This saddle is designed to maximize comfort and usability while providing a custom look and longer riding range. Corbin saddles are shaped to provide contoured support that lasts all day. This seat provides platforms that offer an increased area of body contact to give excellent weight dispersion and eliminate hot spots and adds neutralized seating. The shaping of the Corbin saddle relieves centralized pressure and supports from the sides to reduce the tendency to slide, which may cause fatigue. The back support provided from the stepped saddle is also a great feature. The exclusive Comfort Cell foam makes for a firm, supportive ride that lasts and will support you for years. Corbin claims a 1,500 mile break-in period, but we found the saddle to be comfortable from the get go. Canyon Dual Sport is available with optional electric heated seating panels for a luxurious touch on those chilly a.m. rides. Heater units are completely self contained inside the Corbin saddle. Installation is simple and include a pigtail that integrates with the battery. Covered using genuine leather for a perch that breathes with your body, the quality leather will break in along with your foam for a luxurious ride. Just make sure you care for your saddle with a quality conditioner like Corbin’s Saddle Cream. For this model we chose Black Bomber Jacket leather in the seating with Asphalt vinyl sides, Yellow welts, Black stitching and Light Silver Corbin logo. The colors and textures enhanced the bike’s already great look. Take a look at the Corbin website for more options: corbin.com
Astro 3018 Digital Tire Inflator I have become obsessed and it is a good thing. When was the last time you checked your tire pressure. Was it a month ago when it was still a bit warm? Have you checked your tires now that the mornings are far chillier? Running the correct tire pressure allows the tires to operate in the way they were designed. Too much pressure and the ride will be harsh and rough. Too little and they will overheat and handling will be a bit on the mushy side – before it goes really bad. We have a number of gauges, including a digital inflator we picked up at Tractor Supply for ten bucks. You get what you pay for. So, I wanted an inflator that was of professional quality. A little research brought me to Astro 3018 Digital Tire Inflator. This unit has been around for a while, but we shied away from it because of the need to disassemble the unit to change batteries.
This in no longer the case, as the new Astro 3018 Digital Tire Inflator has a new dual AAA battery powered design with 4x the battery life and far simplifier battery installation. They have swapped out to a new 21” stainless braided hose for increased durability and the Astro displays in KG, PSI or BAR measurement with a large face backlit LCD digital read-out The Astro 3018 Digital Tire Inflator is covered with rubber sleeving for extra comfort and durability and utilizes a two-position lever: 1st position deflates, 2nd position inflates. So easy! It measures from 3 to 175psim, is easy, durable and, most important, accurate! You will find the Astro 3018 Digital Tire Inflator for around $60 from various shops and the dreaded internet.
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2018
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I KNOW THIS PLACE Road Food
Pa route 154 and forksville General store & restaurant 22 BridGe street, forksville, Pa 18616 570-924-4982 • www.forksvillestore.com
Sometimes things just seem to get better with time. A number of years back we featured the Forksville General Store & Restaurant. At the time we traveled along some 10 miles or so of fairly gnarly gravel roads to get into the region, but that really was by choice, not necessity. In truth one of the best roads in the Keystone State runs right past the picturesque covered bridge, over the Loyalsock River, that leads to the Forksville General Store’s door front. So as we all apt to say...“I know this place…” Route 154 in Pennsylvania runs for 31.5 miles from US 220 near Laporte to PA 44 in Canton. In between you will find Worlds End State Park and 31.5 miles of some of the best riding in the northeast. We here at Backroads don’t say that lightly. Great twists and turns, elevation changes, deep forests and fairly good pavement make for an exciting, sometimes technical charge through this part of the Endless Mountains. Although it might seem short at just over 30 miles, it is a road that demands attention; so it might seem a bit longer. Since most of our
readers will be hitting 154 from the east we recommend riding to PA 44 and then turn around and ride it back, as all roads are different when ridden in reverse, right? But, when you do, make note of the covered bridge and the sign for the Forksville General Store - you will be wanting to stop in here on the return trip. The Forksville General Store & Restaurant is one seriously great eatery. What we found years back has only gotten better. The selection of Hoagies has no equal. In fact, Big Mike’s Philly Cheesesteak was voted the best in all of PA by USA Today. Their breakfast items are amazing too. The Bada Bing Omelet is made with three extra large eggs whisked together with Genoa salami, bell peppers, & onions topped with provolone cheese. The South Street Omelet combines Philly style grilled chopped steak, sautéed onions, peppers, and provolone cheese. But the F.R.X. Slammer two fried eggs, served with both smoked sausage links and slab bacon, with a small side order of sausage gravy & biscuits is simply amazing! Shira claims the sausage gravy & biscuits was the best on the planet. So there you have a nice two-for-one. A superior, fun and challenging road that is as delicious to ride as whatever you order from the Forksville General Store will be to eat. This is a win/win on every level. Enjoy both!
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DECEMBER 2018 • BACKROADS
I KNOW THIS PLACE Lay Your Head
BiG Bears lodGe 344 route100, West dover, vt 05356 802-464-5591 • BiGBearslodGe.coM
Route 739 • Dingmans Ferry, PA • 570.828.1920
If you have read Backroads for some time you might have picked up that we are big fans of Vermont and the great ambiance and riding it offers. We have found that in a state that for the most part is rider-friendly, the West Dover region, found in the southern part of Vermont right on Route 100, is particularly happy to see riders roll on in. Although places like the Kitzhof and Gray Ghost might have gotten a lot of notoriety (and rightly so), there is another superb inn just up the road that deserves equal attention - The Big Bears Lodge. A proud member of the Backroads Moto-Inn Program from the start, Steve and Caroline offer 24 exceptionally nice and comfy rooms, all with their own air conditioning and modern amenities. The Big Bears is far larger than it looks as you ride up and they have a number of lounges for your pleasure; a Quiet Lounge for those looking for a bit of peace and, well, quiet, a BYOB Bar Lounge for those who are not and a TV lounge with fireplace and overstuffed sofas. There is a Games Room with a pool table, foosball, pinball and even a jukebox.
Outside you will find a superb heated pool and a hot tub as well – perfect for relaxing after a long charge through the Green Mountain passes. They also have something a bit different and much needed by every rider-friendly inn… the Big Bears Lodge offers a large garage with a workbench and power which they make available for the storage and maintenance of guest’s mountain bikes or a small number of motorcycles during their stay. The garage is secured every night and unlocked early each morning. Outside of the garage is a wash area and cleaning equip-
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2018
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ment is provided for guests use. So it seems they have you AND your motorcycle covered. Of course, a full and delicious country breakfast is provided to all guests with prices starting from $80 for single and $110 per couple. Sharing a room with a few friends is even a better deal. Whether you are simply riding through the area or looking for a great base-camp for a few days of Vermont exploration you cannot go wrong with the Big Bears Lodge. As they say “Experience an old English welcome in New England style” The Big Bears Lodge is another reason why West Dover could be the most motorcycle-friendly town in the northeast.
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DECEMBER 2018 • BACKROADS
Riding is important to those who do it well. When you’re riding its life… Anything before or after – is just waiting. Michael Delaney – LeMans
CLASS 2018 Why we return year after year…
Okay, maybe I played with that quote a bit – but the feeling in the same. We hope that those of us who are passionate about riding motorcycles wish to do it well. Mark Byers wrote an article a few months back about ‘Farkling the Rider.’ In it he brought up the fact that so many of us spend hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars on accessories, bling and gadgets for our machines, but not nearly as many riders think to spend the time, money and effort into becoming better riders. Instructor Kenny, first-timer Josh and veteran Stephanie
Words: Brian Rathjen Images: Brian Rathjen, Shira Kamil, eTech.com
Although many of you might say you have been riding for decades, and perhaps you have, could you have been doing this better all these years? It is a good thing to remain teachable and we at Backroads try to do this. Thus the plethora of riding schools, courses and practice we put in and attend. For many years we have been consistently attending Reg Pridmore’s CLASS at various venues – but recently at VIR – Virginia International Raceway. This is a two-day class and time is equally spent between classroom and track time – 20 minutes at a clip.
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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2018 Reg gives Clay some insightful pointers.
Page 43
Although some attend simply for the track, this is not a track day by any means. Rather, it is an opportunity to learn to be smooth, in control and a more confident rider. Reg has been mentoring riders of all types for decades and his easy manner and wonderful way of getting his message across is readily Downhill esses on the south course. received - if you are open, listening and willing to apply the lessons learned. With Reg and Gigi (the absolute better half) and his team of instructors, it is impossible to attend these two days and not leave a better and more poised rider. This year Hurricane Michael threw a curve ball at us and when we arrived the track and John critiquing after a track session. surrounding area was in a bit of disarray. The Dan River had come up to claim parts of the larger north track and our first day of CLASS would be moved to the far smaller and much tighter south course. The first turn there is called The Bitch. Nice. But, this turned out to be a bonus in many ways as it forced us all to be more vigilant and tenacious about following Reg’s instructions and basic rules and we all came out of the first day with the knowledge that our machines and we could work remarkably well together. After attending CLASS at VIR for years on the north course, having to be on the south course made it an entirely new experience for both students and instructors, so we learned and advanced together. Speaking of tenacious – the crew at VIR did yeoman’s work cleaning up the north course this day and at 5 o’clock we learned we would be moving to the larger track for the second day. So, this year we got two tracks instead of the one and we really enjoyed the change and the different challenges of each course. After the tight south course the larger north track seemed far more open and inviting than it had been in the previous years. Although the school is broken up into two groups - A and B – we choose to stay in the B group as for some (not all) the A stands for something else, and those riders seem not to be there to learn but just log in fast lap times. Shira and I came to become better riders – not faster riders. Staying in the B group allowed us (for the most part) to avoid the racer boys. Riverside Cafe & Lodge, nestled on the Beaverskill River in Roscoe, NY CIA-trained chef • Motel rooms and cabins • Free wi-fi Excellent base location to explore the lower Catskills
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DECEMBER 2018 • BACKROADS
Instructor Stuart with some off-track comments.
Group B watches and listens as Reg explains Turn 7 on the north course.
But, in truth, with smoothness and confidence quicker laps naturally follow. Many of Reg’s rules play out directly on the street – one important one being ‘restraint.’ Taking a breath and letting things play out in front of you is always far better than getting caught up in an avoidable mess. Keeping your eyes up and looking down the track (or street) where you want to go is key, as is body and lane positioning and the knowledge that you can more easily steer your bike through the turns with your legs than your arms. This makes for an easier and less tiring ride while on longer tours or day trips.
Joann and Evan having fun with track tape.
Brian leads the charge through north course Turn 4.
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2018
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Mark Byers chasing Reg around the north course.
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I could go on with other lessons learned over the two days at VIR, but Reg does have a great book (Smooth Riding the Pridmore Way) that is well worth reading – a few times. We rode home over two days, nearly 600 miles of tiny roads from the border with North Carolina to northwest New Jersey and almost immediately CLASS came into play – whether it be riding exactly where we needed to be as Bobby Goodolboy and his pick-up came around the blind curve half in our lane, or simply enjoying a meandering and twisty road through the Shenandoah Valley. It always seems as if riding is an even more joyful experience when we roll away from CLASS. If I had one thing more I could ask from Reg it would be to have CLASS at VIR in April, as earlier in the year makes for a great spring tune up; but we’ll take it whenever and wherever we can. If we could we’d do it every month. But that is us - and we’re overachievers. CLASS, based in California, is not the only game in town – still there is a reason we return again and again as it is one of the best by far. In the northeast there are a number of riding schools that cover a variety of riding styles, skills and genres, whether it be in a controlled environment like the track, or along the backroads with experienced riding mentors like Ken Condon or tight maneuvering in a parking lot with Ride Like A Pro or Total Control. It is all good and we, as riders who wish to be better, need to work on our skill – for they are perishable. We sincerely hope Reg, Gigi and company keep coming back east for many more years, as we’ll keep coming and we encourage you to take a good honest look at your riding skills and realize that even the best riders in the world had to learn to be just that – CLASS is an excellent investment in your motorcycle riding, enjoyment and safety. Riding is important to those who do it well. When you’re riding its life… Anything before or after – is just waiting. Find out all you need to know about CLASS here: www.classrides.com Who’s teaching who? We keep coming and we keep learning.
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DECEMBER 2018 • BACKROADS
free Wheelin’ Continued from Page 3 My Spanish is no muy bueno but I know what muerte means. Ya think? Time for Plan B. Using judgment of which my mother and close friends would be proud, we decided “we can do this.” Well, a few of us did. Shira, using some crazy pretzel logic, came up with her own Plan B, which involved me doing this twice - once with my bike and once with hers. As usual her logic was Vulcanesque. We did make it and later that night celebrated our badassery and our Plan B. This brings me to another place and time where a choice needed to be made. I was sitting alone in a large and opulent suite at a resort in New Jersey attending a BMW media introduction that was surprisingly held in the Garden State. When I first heard of this jaunt I thought the words Havana and Cuba were mentioned, yet here I was about 30 minutes from home. Oh well, I hope the California journalists found our region scenic, very rider-friendly and lots of fun to explore. While killing time I was bouncing back and forth between cool things to do along the Outer Banks and Weatherbell.com to see what Hurricane Matthew was going to do and where he planned to go that weekend. I was thinking that I might be pondering a Plan B already. We never did have that story about the Outer Banks, rather it became a
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Continued from Page 4 – Laconia, Pocono Raceway and Virginia International Raceway – and for the past few have taken the two-day course. When we first started attending at VIR and taking the two days on the track, I would lose some steam after the lunch break on the first day and cut the day short by a session or two. By the second day, my energy and excitement returned and I’d go at the turns that vexed me with renewed gusto, but come the afternoon sessions, I’d again find my mind and energy waning. This year, I vowed to myself to make the most of every minute and went at the days just a bit differently. While I certainly was there to increase my smoothness and precision each lap, I didn’t try to increase my speed at which I attacked the course. A funny thing happened – while I felt that I did hit my marks and get around the course with increased ease as the day went on, I’m pretty sure that, had I put a lap timer on, I was little by little decreasing my lap times. I also found that my energy level stayed up, perhaps due to the fact that I was not so concerned with the speed I was maintaining but that I was concentrating on my efficiency of getting around the course. The ride home was spectacular; the roads, scenery and my riding coming together for a perfect trifecta of what would probably be my last long road trip of this year. Got my toes on the footpegs My ass on the seat The road up ahead is curvy and sweet Life is good today, life is good today Adios and vaya con Dios, yeah I’m leaving VA With a head full of knowledge That’s better than college I learned the Pridmore way.
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Continued from Page 5 Postcards froM the hedGe a kick-starter. Wild, when you think about it. It was a Hybrid, man! Anyway, if the tiny battery (compared to these days) was too pooped to spin up the starter, you could give the bike a few kicks and off you’d rumble. On the day of my riding test, I actually had to use it. But as we all know the kick-starter on street bikes is long gone, and in a weird way I’ve always missed it a little bit. You could make the argument that in its way it was more functional than an electric starter, but to be honest it would be hard with today’s larger, highcompression engines to fit one on a modern bike as easily as in the past. But, there have been times in the last year or two I could have used one of the simple devices to bring the bike to life. Another simple, elegant device that wasn’t actually replaced at all but just cast asunder (almost) was the centerstand, and back just before cell phones took over the planet I had to actually purchase one as an option when the original version of my VFR came with one as standard kit. Before this they were really common on all kinds of street machines, even most sport bikes, and amazingly useful for the touring motorcyclist as you all are quite aware. But then the Advancement Police came, and in order to save weight and increase cornering clearance (advancements, don’t cha know) they got chucked into the bin. Some OEMs still believe in them though, so they haven’t completely gone the way of the kick-starter. I guess the lesson here is, most, if not all technological advancements come with a drawback, and far too often it means a loss of some sort of function that made them useful in the first place. The price of progress, perhaps? Get off my lawn!
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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2018
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American Flat Track Series Final at The Meadowlands words + images: Tony Lisanti What was to be an anticlimactic final round of the AFT Twins and Singles race held at the New Jersey Meadowlands racetrack turned out to be anything but. This was the first time AMA American Flat Track, formerly known as the AMA Grand National Championship, ever raced in New Jersey. It was also the first time anywhere near the Big Apple. The inaugural AFT Meadowlands Mile sponsored by Ducati kicked off on what was to be a crisp early autumn afternoon. Unfortunately, Mother Nature had other plans. Instead of a cool clear night with the lights of downtown New York City skyline in the background, the practice and qualifying started under a heavy overcast and misty cloud cover. The fans still turned out in great numbers, filling the stands. The series championship had already been decided at the prior round with Indian Motorcycle Rogers Racing SDI Scout FTR750 rider Jared Mees wrapping up the 2018 championship in Milwaukee. Mees has won the AFT Twins championship 3 out of the last 4 years.
However, his teammate Indian Motorcycle Racing backed by Allstate Scout FTR750 Bryan Smith was enjoying a late season run winning 3 out of 4 of the rounds leading up the finale. The stage was set for some history as well. Jared Mees with his second straight AFT Twins championship under his belt was poised to set a single season win record. Former champ Kenny Coolbeth Jr. was preparing for his final race before retirement.
The AFT Twins class was dominated by Indian in recent years with 13 riders. The Harley Factory Team had three riders and one lonely Yamaha rounded out the field. Mees #1 was the early leader at the start of the final main. His rival #4 Smith was a close second for most of the race. The final two laps had 3rd and 4th place riders catch up with Smith and Mees. On the final lap, Smith was able to break free and took the lead in the final corner. Mees finished second and Jeffery Carver Jr. rounded out another all Indian podium. Coolbeth Jr. finished his last race in a distant 7th place.
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The AFT Singles race provided some drama as well with Husqvarna rider Shayna Texter beating the #1 Yamaha rider Kolby Carlile. Carlile got the early lead and stayed there most of the race. Texter was able to catch up in the closing laps and pulled out the win by ringing out her Husky 450 and drafting past Carlile in the final turn. The misty evening likely kept some fans from coming out, but the crowd was still very large. There were a few delays due to the heavy mist but ultimately final races went off just about on time. The racing was superb and to have this event in our own backyard was terrific. The Meadowlands Mile is listed on the provisional schedule for next year as the last round with a date yet to be determined. Check the final schedule at www.americanflattrack.com.
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P O L A R BEA R S CHEDULE • 2018- 2019
What’s Happening
It is not necessary to be a member of the Polar Bear Grand Tour to do these rides. There is generally food at the destination and if you just want to go for a nice ride and join other folks feel free to attend. Polar Bear cancellations & updates will be posted on the website. Sign-in is from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. unless otherwise posted. Check the New Member page for general information about the Polar Bear Grand Tour.
DECEMBER 2018 2 • MONTGOMERyVILLE CyCLE, 2901 Bethlehem Pike Hatfield, PA • 215-712-7433 9 • PJ Whelihan's 799 Dekalb Pike, Blue Bell, PA • 610-272-8919 16 • THE CABIN, 984 Route #33 Howell, NJ • 732 462-3090 • CHRISTMAS PARTY. BRING AN UNWRAPPED TOY FOR THE CHILDREN'S HOSPITAL 23 • THE TILTED KILT, 755 Route 18, East Brunswick, NJ • 732-257-5458
Shamong NJ • 609-268-2066 • Starting @ 11:30 AM. Cost to Members: $6/person. There will be salad, Wings, Beef, rolls, and lemonade, plus a cash bar. you must get an arm band from your flight leader. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DECEMBER 2019 15 • Morton’s BMW Holiday Party with food, fun and holiday sales all day long. 5099A Jefferson Davis Hwy, Fredericksburg, VA • www.mortonsbmw.com • 540-891-9844
30 • RHODES NORTH TAVERN, 40 Orange Turnpike, Sloatsburg, Ny • 845-753-6438
FEBRUARY 2019
JANUARY 2019
8-10 • Progressive International Motorcycle Show - Washington, D.C. • Walter E. Washington Convention Center, 801 Mt. Vernon Place NW: Fri. 3-7pm, Sat. 10am-8pm, Sun. 10am-5pm • $17/adult, 11 and under free • www.motorcycleshows.com
6 • PIC-A-LILLI INN 866 Route 206 Shamong NJ • 609-268-2066 13 • VICTORy BREWING, 420 Acorn Ln, Downingtown, PA • 610-873-0881 20 • O'Connor's Bar & Grill, 1383 Monmouth Rd, Eastampton TWP, NJ • 609 261-1555 27 • THE EXCHANGE, 160 E. Main St., Rockaway, NJ • 973-627-8488
FEBRUARY 2019 3 • THE FRANKLIN HOUSE TAVERN, 101 North Market Street, Schaefferstown, PA 10 • HOOTERS, 25 Rte 23 South, Wayne, NJ • 973-837-1876 17 • BAHRS LANDING, 2 Bay Ave., Highlands, NJ • 732-872-1247 24 • LIGHTHOUSE TAVERN, 397 Route 9 Waretown, NJ • 609-693-3150
MARCH 2019 3 • LONG VALLEy PUB & BREWERy, 1 Fairmount Rd., Long Valley, NJ • 908-876-1122 10 • Will be scheduled during the riding season 17 • BRIAN'S HARLEy-DAVIDSON, 600 S. Flowers Mill Rd., Langhorne PA 19047 • 215 752-9400 24 • THE HICKORy BBQ SMOKEHOUSE, 743 Route 28, Kingston, Ny • 845-338-2424 31 • PLUMSTED GRILL, 457 Rte. 539, Cream Ridge, NJ • 609-758-5552
APRIL 2019 7 • CAPE MAy V.F.W. post #386, N.J. 419 Congress St., Cape May, NJ • 609-884-7961 13 • END OF THE SEASON GET-TOGETHER - At The Pic-a-Lilli Inn • 866 Route 206
MAY 2019 17-19 • Dover Moto Riding for a Cure. Charity event to raise funds towards Breast and Ovarian cancer research based in West Dover, Vermont. Proud supporters of the annual Mother’s for Daughter’s Charity Ride. Weekend of stunning Vermont rides, great food, and good music • Full details www.dovermoto.com 17-19 • Morton’s BMW Spring Fling Rally, Natural Bridge, VA. Full weekend of great riding, good food and terrific company. Rally fee includes vendors, door prizes, route sheets, scavenger hunt poker run, Fri. night Brats + Brew, Sat. catered buffet dinner and guest presentation. Full info and registration: www.mortonsbmw.com 16-20 • Backroads Spring Break. Lions and Coasters and Amish - OH My! We’ll travel to State College, PA for our first night, then two nights in McHenry, MD and our final night in Bird-in-Hand, PA. Full details: www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html
JUNE 2019 3-8 • Americade, Lake George, Ny. Largest motorcycle touring rally. Sign up begins February 2019 • www.americade.com • 518-798-7888
SEPTEMBER 2019 9-12 • Rolling Thru America Virginia. Limited to 100 guests • 518-798-7888 • Sign up at www.rollingthruamerica.com 25-28 • Rolling Thru America Maine. Limited to 100 guests • 518-798-7888 • Sign up at www.rollingthruamerica.com