August 2011

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AUGUST

2011 Volume 17 No. 8

ine

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

Running with the Diavel Riding Solo in Tuscany • Tour de Tug • Americade 2011 PLUS… All our great monthly columns, features and information

W H A T ’ S

I N S I D E FEAT URES

MON THLY COLUMN S FREE WHEELIN’.................................................................................4 WHATCHATHINKIN’..........................................................................6 POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE .................................................8 ON THE MARK ..................................................................................9 THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD ...................................................10 BACKLASH........................................................................................11 INDUSTRY INFOBITES...................................................................13 INSIDE THE HELMET .....................................................................14 BIG CITY GETAWAY........................................................................16 WE’RE OUTTA HERE......................................................................18 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA...............................................................22 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN.........................................24 UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ..............................................48 MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE...................................................52 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE .......................................................56

AMERICADE - BACK TO THE LAKE...........................................26 GOOCH’S GARLIC RUN 2011.......................................................31 RIDING SOLO IN TUSCANY.........................................................36 BACKROADS UPCOMING EVENTS ...........................................40 RUNNING WITH THE DIAVEL......................................................42 GETTING CLEAR ON COMMUNICATION ................................46 SHIRA’S SUMMERTIME ICE CREAM RIDE .............................58 TWO-AND-A-THIRD SIXES TOUR DE TUG ..............................60

PRODUCT REVIEW S PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS ...............................................................44 CATOMA OUTDOORS 2 UP 2 TENT.........................................50 ARAI XC SERIES HELMET ............................................................51

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil ~ Publishers Contributors: Michael Abraham, Bill Amadio, Mark Byers, Bill Heald, Vince Johnson, Jeffrey Kurtzman, Donna Sherburn, Tim Wineland, Tyler Yandow, Dr. Seymour O’Life Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

BACKROADS • POB 317, Branchville NJ 07826

Phone 973.948.4176 • Fax 973.948.0823 • email editor@backroadsusa.com • web www.backroadsusa.com • Advertising Sales 973-948-4176 BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2011. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

Page 4

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN Not AlwAys EquAl All animals are equal – but some animals are more equal that others….

Animal Farm A few years back, while touring in eastern Europe I came upon a sign for limited parking.

It showed a hybrid vehicle and, if you were driving such a car, you were more than welcome to this prime piece of parking realty.

Being in this part of the world I simply took note and parked my highly fuel-efficient motorcycle in another legal, if not as nice space, and continued on my tour.

Let’s slingshot forward a few years to this past June.

We were at a local park in western Pennsylvania and, as we pulled into the parking lot, I spied a vaguely familiar sign.

The very politically correct Eurocrats had reached our shores. For years, if you were handicapped, you had privileged parking – but now if you had a “Hybrid” you were also given special parking.

Wait, because you are driving a more “Green” vehicle you are now more worthy than others?

All animals are equal – but some animals are more equal that others….

Our motorcycles are powered by both fuel and electricity - in a fashion. And, with the superb fuel economy that many bikes get, should we not also be offered prime parking when available?

I think motorcycles are green from the get go!

This day I made it a point to park my bike right in this spot.

Nobody said a word at this park. It didn’t matter as there were dozen of them and we were the only ones there. Still a point was to be made.

Don’t we all think that it is about time that the United States really starts to embrace two-wheel transportation? Making readily available parking for motorcycles is truly a no-brainer.

We put less stress on the roadways and infrastructure. We take up far less space than all but the smallest cars and motorcycles are very fuel-efficient.

In the Big Apple the New York Motorcycle & Scooter Task Force is doing a seriously good job at getting more spots available for riders of both motorcycles and scooters. LaGuardia Airport is their latest success. We hope more are on the way.

Log onto their site at www.nymstf.org and help in any way you can.

Since it was the Europeans that spurred this tirade on we must give credit where it is due.

For years Europe has not only embraced motorcycles and riders, but actively encourage them.

The way the average European feels about riders compared to the average American is truly a wide gap. Riders are accepted in Europe – here they are sometimes vilified.

In every major European country motorcycles are an intrinsic part of the transportation system. Motorcycles are everywhere and treated like equals, not in the villainous way many times we are treated here in the States.

Not only that, in Europe and Asia it is expected that motorcycles will filter though stopped traffic. This makes sense and keeps the flow of traffic from piling up.

Lane-splitting is illegal in many eastern states, but it is encouraged in Europe.

I have had some drivers actually try to stop me from moving through stopped traffic on a hot summer day. By trying to stop me, using a pick-up truck as a battering ram, I see that as attempted murder. But that’s me and I have been called excitable.

I guess what we’d like to see is a more common-sense approach to motorcycle riding, parking and attitude.

(Continued on Page 12)

AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 6

I have to say that I am sort of gentle on my riding gear. I like to wash it on a fairly regular basis and try to keep it in somewhat decent shape. Thus, I tend to keep pieces for some length of time and accumulate many variations of the theme. Sure, there are seasonal items such as heavy liners and Gerbings, but I’m talking crossovers. Let’s take an inventory…

My selection of jackets right now includes a Cortech Denim, Girl Gear Morocco, Clover GT-3 WP and Olympia Airglide and AST, all with accompanying liners. For the bottom half of my body there hang some Olympia Airglide and Promax also pairing up with liners. Moving further south, the floor of the closet houses Tourmaster Solution, IXS boots that I believe are out of production and Forma GT. Hanging out in the bike barn are a number of helmets including a tried and true Nolan N103, a thoroughly broken in Schuberth C3W and the new kid on the block, the Vemar Jiano, which is

W H ATC H AT H I N K I N ’ SHIRA KAMIL whAt’s A girl to do?

I consider myself fortunate to have a couple of bikes to choose from when heading out for a ride. I know many who have a multitude of options, but I’ve always thought that two is the perfect number. Even with all the miles I put on in a year, I still don’t put on enough to warrant a third choice. I suppose that if/when I decide to do more serious off-road adventuring – that would be if/when I move out of New Jersey as there is next to nothing in the way of trails in my neck of the state – a smaller dirt bike would be added to the stable. For now, the BMW F650GS and Honda 919 serve my purposes just fine.

That being said, I wish my choices in gear were as simple. Brian and I used to be very happy sharing a gear closet, chock full of jackets, pants, boots and such. They commingled in happiness, blending their road odors to become one. At some point, I realized that my stuff kept getting hung on the lesser hangers and the separation of ‘front and back’ of the closet no longer existed. I must have mumbled this in my outside voice, as Brian moved his gear to another closet one day. Perhaps it was that he felt my gear was beginning to overrun his and he ran for his life. Whatever the reason, I discovered a whole new space and, when one has space, one fills it.

soon to be road-tested. I won’t even go into the glove box, as that happens to be my obsession zone. Okay, since you insist, my day-to-day finger cover is a pair of Held Steve II. I have an assortment of rain gloves, varying in (Continued on Page 12)

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AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 8

P O S TC A R D S FROM THE HEDGE BILL HEALD thE drivE of your lifE It’s one of those things where if everything is working properly, you really don’t give it much thought. And while there are so many aspects of modern motorcycles I could include in this category, at the moment I’m thinking about your final drive system. This is of course the ultimate link between your drivetrain and the road, for this is the final mechanical transfer point where your power is translated to the drive wheel in order to get you on your way. Despite the fact that we have so much wild technology in our lives these days, there’s still just three primary ways our final drives are set up: chains, belts and drive shafts. But, as always, I think there may be a different type of system in the future and until recently I would have said the distant future. But the way things change these days, I refuse to use the term distant any more. Technology has a way of just showing up and getting incorporated into our lives almost before we realize it, so I’m going to be careful when I say something is way in the future.

For now, though, we have the three established drive systems and I’ve heard some surprisingly spirited dinner discussions about which system is superior. Most manufacturers (but certainly not all) use all three drive methods depending on which particular model they think works best with the particular system. Serious sport bikes (with the exception of Buells recently) always went for a chain for its combination of durability, light weight, ability to handle a lot of torque and horsepower and the ease at which you can change the final drive ratio by just swapping sprockets. On the downside a chain-and-sprocket array is the highest maintenance of the three systems, although with today’s O-ring, X-ring, X-Wing and Ring-a-Ding chains this is not nearly the chore it used to be. Just picking from the amazing assortment of chain lubes available (including waxes and other types of excellent chemistry in spray form) can be an adventure, though, and until recently many manufacturers still recommended lubing the chain with good ol’ engine oil which was a mess.

Next we have the belt system, which some folks mistakenly think is a comparatively recent development but belts have been driving wheels for as long as there have been engines (and motors, and mills powered by paddlewheels).

A very efficient and light weight way to go, belts are also clean and require no maintenance other than periodic inspection, occasional adjustment and eventual replacement. On the downside it’s much harder to change ratios, and on very rare occasions a gravel road can mess with the “teeth” of a belt’s sprocket. Oh, they are also very elegant and stylish, and can help dampen the output shock of an engine like a V-Twin.

Finally we have gear drive (or shaft drive as we call it), which is heavier, more complex but very reliable and very low maintenance. Over the eons all kinds of clever engineering strategies have been implemented to help counteract the “shaft effect” this type of system can introduce during abrupt acceleration or deceleration, with a good degree of success. BMW and Moto Guzzi have a lot of experience with drive shafts, and their work has resulted in not only good, reliable drive but generous use of single-sided swingarms that greatly simplifies rear wheel removal. Sport Touring bikes are really starting to embrace the shaft, too, like the Kawasaki Concours, Yamaha FJR1300A and even Honda VFR have done. The only real maintenance involves (depending on the machine) a bit of shaft-spline lube and an oil change at usually pretty spread-out intervals, which is why big touring rigs like the Gold Wing that log serious miles love the shaft (especially since added weight is less of an issue).

So all three of these systems are doing a fine job of getting our motorcycles around, much as we got along just fine with carburetors, non-radial tires and even drum brakes once upon a time. What’s next in final drive? In my mind the next big change will come with a change in the engine room, or when the rapidly advancing science of electric-powered motorcycles become more mainstream. Then in the lightest models I think we’ll see an electric motor that basically IS the final drive, fed off nothing more than a wire running up the swingarm. Imagine the overall simplicity, low maintenance and cleanliness of such a drive. I honestly do think this technology has a lot of development to do and is not exactly around the corner, and yet I can’t believe how fast the world of anything that has wires, chips and other things in it is changing. The next decade, to put it mildly, is going to be very interesting.

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011

Page 9

ON THE MARK MARK BYERS “Oh, a storm is threat’ning, My very life today, If I don’t get some shelter, Oh yeah, I’m gonna fade away.”

The Rolling Stones “Gimme Shelter” I see it coming for miles: thirty thousand feet of tumultuous, malevolent, gray-indigo cumulonimbus loaded with rain and hail, charged with the electrical equivalent of an atom bomb. With increasing frequency, it was lit from within by jagged blue neon, turning even the darker parts irridescent blue. I was on a motorcycle and we, the storm and I, were headed straight for each other. Any sane motorcyclist knows better than to play chicken with a thunderstorm.

We lose.

I’ve ridden in the rain and it’s not that special. A quick stop to don rain gear and gloves nets me the protection I need to proceed. A thunderstorm is different, though. A thunderstorm has fangs. Being pelted with hail, which I’ve experienced, pales in comparison to what else a thunderstorm can do. There’s a reason death-row convicts called execution by electrocution “riding the lightning.”

We’re basically an electrical circuit with a saltwater filling, so a human is a pretty good conductor. On a motorcycle, there’s no enveloping, conducting Faraday Cage to divert the amps around us. I love barbecues, but I don’t fancy being the meat course.

The usual signs preceded it. An unusual calm descended as the light faded, then the wind began with increasing intensity, carrying with it the unmistakable smell of rain. Tree leaves turned upside down, showing their white bellies in fealty to the approaching storm. It marched toward me as I rode toward it and I could see the rain bands lashing down. Even my feeble mind didn’t have trouble doing the math: at this rate of closure, I wasn’t going to make my destination.

There’s nothing like an approaching supercell to make shelter the top priority on Maslow’s hierarchy of need for a motorcyclist. I shifted navigation modes from “destination” to “desperation” and began looking for the usual suspects. Abandoned service station awnings do all right. One time my wife and I spent the better part of an hour huddled on the littered front porch of an abandoned, condemned house. Sometimes a store will appear and sometimes a bridge abutment has to do, forcing you to watch while tractor-trailers thunder by your abandoned bike, showering it with dirty mist. Even so, if the cell spawns rotation, that bridge abutment is a mighty fine place.

In this case, a kind soul standing in an empty service station bay beckoned and soon I was inside with my newest, latest best friend. As I put the stand down, the first big drops hit the pavement outside like bursting water balloons. Then came the storm, in all it’s electric glory, the wind driving sheets of rain in seemingly random directions, misting well into the garage. Telephone wires waved. The smell changed from hot pavement potpourri to storm perfume. Brilliant blue flashes lit the sky and the thunder roared like God had his bass amp turned up to eleven. There’s no sensory experience quite like watching, hearing, feeling, and smelling a thunderstorm, particularly when you’re sheltered.

We didn’t say much, my new friend and I, we just

watched in awed silence as the clouds retched all over the outside world. A couple truck tires became my front-row seat. I got a pop from the cooler and drank it as the show played. The storm’s anger was short-lived, as they tend to be. It lasted a bottle of pop, then faded to a drizzle and a breeze. My new friend and I talked bikes for a while as the rain abated, then my destination beckoned. There was a handshake before the glove went on, then I pushed out into the post-storm wet. A wave and a visor-down later, I was on my way again as the storm spent itself on points East.

Out on the road, the rain was already rising in an eerie mist from the shockcooled pavement. To the West, the lowering sun colored orange and red the striated clouds in the wake of the storm. I felt like I was riding through some director’s postapocalyptic movie set. The lighting design should win an Academy Award. I rode on, awash in my good fortune. There’s nothing more awe-inspiring than the brutal majesty of a thunderstorm, but as a motorcyclist, gimme shelter. From my perspective, there’s a lot of beauty in an old, green, greasy service station bay with a handy stack of tires.

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AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 10

TH OUGHTS FROM THE ROAD

Donna Sherburne

$100 ANd 48 hours The weather forecast for the next few days was high 80s and dry; an uncommon event for the first week of September in northern Vermont. I knew the riding season would end sooner than I would hope for. I had been inspired by the articles in HOG Magazine for an adventure and the challenge to see how far I could go on $100. I packed my Softail Deluxe with my essential camping gear and took off. My desire was to explore the Adirondacks in neighboring New York.

My route from my home in the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont took me west across my own beautiful state’s farmland and villages. I arrived in Montpelier to eat my packed lunch on the lawn of the capital. A few hours later, I was crossing Lake Champlain via ferry to the equally beautiful landscape of New York. I spent the twenty minute crossing answering the curiosities of several interested passengers on my travels and operation of my bike. It proved to be the first of many comments of my “braveness” of traveling solo – apparently an unusual occurrence for a woman. I hadn’t planned any routes to take and when I came to an intersection, I often chose the path least traveled. I was accustomed to rural and mountainous travels; however, I was unprepared for

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the beauty of the many lakes, ponds, forests and vistas of the Adirondacks. As evening was approaching, my lack of planning was not transporting me by any campgrounds, so at my first gas fill-up, I purchased a map and was able to locate the nearest state campground. Arriving just before closing time, I inquired about staying for the night. After being asked if I was traveling alone, I was told the campground was full. I explained that I wouldn’t take up much more room than my bike did and though I would love the freedom to camp off the edge of these desolate roadways, I did not want to risk my safety. I was alone, but not foolish. A call to the manager and a cry of desperation for the solo lady on the big bike and I was in. I set up my homestead for the night, jumped in the lake to wash off the road grime and ate my meal of cup of soup and beef jerky. I had put on 143 miles that day. The night was warm and the full moon reflected on the lake beside my tent. Life doesn’t get much better than this.

I had an early start at sunrise and after getting my bearings from the map I purchased the day before, I headed for Lake Placid. A long winding road transported me to mountain vistas, lakes and streams that appeared too pristine to be real. The first indication that I arrived at my destination was the towering ski jumps from past Olympic games. A short distance from there, I entered what emulated a European ski town coupled with the hustle and bustle of an affluent society. I must admit, while I stretched my legs along the paths of the lake, I felt a bit out of place with my leathers amongst the designer clad, sweet smelling, strolling tourist of the town. It propelled me to ride again.

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Taking a southwestern route out of town, I cruised by countless waterways, often without seeing any other travelers on the byways until I arrived in the small lakeside communities. I fell upon the Adirondack Museum in Blue Lake. The entry fee was $20, a bit more than I dared spend and stay in budget. I was able to use the facilities and pick up some Adirondack history by perusing the books in the museum store. Back on the bike and my next goal was Lake George. The crowds made me to an “about face” and head back into the woods. I was prepared to spend $20 on my campsite this night, but as the road warrior gods would have it, this state campground’s attendants had gone off duty hours before my arrival and left a sign of “Welcome. Choose your spot.” Another sunset swim, warm dinner and the added luxury of a campfire thanks to the many campers that had left wood behind. I had racked on another 158 miles.

My third day on the road brought me to Crown Point, NY to hitch the ferry back to Vermont where the warm sun was baking the crops of corn and freshly cut hay to aloft their sweet aromas. As the miles passed bringing me back home, I reflected on the many gifts the wind and road had allotted.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011

Page 11

BACKLASH

Letters to the Editor

The Journal of J.T. Hart Brian, You’ve done a fantastic job with the Journal. Congratulations and thank you. We both love it. Will you send Cheryl Hart a copy? Will other family members of all four travelers be able to buy copies of this issue? We’ll look forward to hearing about the feedback that you get on this story.

Best regards.

Ron & Terry Minor Dear Brian, Thank you very much for publishing this glorious and gritty saga. I took your July Backroads with me on my annual B-day m/c camp out, this year to Robert H. Treman St. Park just south of Ithaca, N.Y. By riding a reliable Suzuki Volusia over smooth asphalt with an occasional construction zone to a level, quiet campsite with a tent, cot, fire, food, etc. I’m trying to connect to these days of touring when roads were still ditches and you could share a clutch. My trip is a stroll down the block compared to this.

One of my favorite lines was the “pitiful remarks” made by Minor when he skidded out: “Oh! My poor ankle. I know it is hurt!” I don’t think you could print most of the words that come out of my mouth when I skid out.

Thanks again, and I love your magazine, C. Olson - Valhalla, N.Y.

Be Careful Out There I have sent you this because I want you to use caution while riding.

I was on Jackson Valley Road in Washington this afternoon (Sunday the 12th) when I caught “something” flying out of the corner of my eye. I heard a WHAP and thought something flew out of my saddlebag. As my mind processed the scene I realized the passing vehicle had thrown something at me while riding. I looked down while riding and saw that my left saddlebag was covered with what looked like chocolate pudding and some white/yellow stuff. By the time I realized what had really happened, the truck was gone in the opposite direction. I continued to the Quick Chek in Washington where

I cleaned the mess off with a wet paper towel. It looked like the contents of a chocolate creme pie. On my trip home I slowed at the point where it happened and saw the crust in the road so my suspicions were correct on what had been thrown. Since I wasn’t paying particular attention to the vehicle before the incident, I recall it may have been a dark grey or black SUV or pickup.Later in the evening I was relaying what had happened to a friend that was on a Ninja. He told me that he was on Route 46 near Steiger Street in Hackettstown going about 30 mph when someone threw something at him that bounced off his full face helmet, hit a car windshield and cracked it. In his case it turned out to be a NJ license plate that was folded in half then folded into a triangle and tossed out the window by a passing car. My incident was reported to the Washington Twp PD, his was reported to Hackettstown PD. Both these incidents occured in Warren County, New Jersey. I have no idea if this is a new thing or whether it is going on elsewhere. The potential danger is obvious. The friend that had the plate thrown at him had a significant scratch that started on the side of his helmet and continued to the windshield. If that had been a half helmet, the results would have been disastrous.

Like Phil Esterhaus (from Hill Street Blues) used to say, ‘Hey...Lets be careful out there!’

Brian and Shira, Thank you for holding some nice rallies several times a year. Thank you for being the voice of reason with your editorials and lifestyle in regards to sane motorcycling. Thank you for providing a free ad for the NewRoc HOG’s fundraiser. Lastly, thank you for turning me on to the SkyRoll, which will allow me to pack my tuxedo when I go to the ballroom dance weekends in the Catskills. Thank you, thank you, thank you. BYRD

An Excellent Trip in the Making Hey Brian and Shira, I respect you two as the backbone of my FAVORITE MOTORCYCLE MAGAZINE (and I get a bunch). Anyway....I’m leaving with two other solid

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AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 12 citizens from our group, Hudson Valley Harley Riders out of New City, Rockland County, NY, on a ride to ALASKA. First stop Calgary for a day at the Stampede, then Banff and Lake Louise.

From there we ride to Fairbanks, Denali (Mt. McKinley), Anchorage and then Kenai for some fishin’.

Returning back to Canada we will head to Vancouver to meet with the wives for 5 days exploring Vancouver Island, Seattle, to Sturgis via Yellowstone, and the Beartooth Higway. Eventually to Sturgis and home via somewhere else.

All the best, Mark Weinstein Mark and crew: have an awesome time - sounds like an adventure for sure.

Put together some words with the pictures, we’d love to see it. Be safe and have FUN! B&S Hi Brian, Your magazine is so terrific it is difficult to think of any way to improve it. However, I do have one suggestion regarding routes and locations of the various road trips that are described so well with many great pictures. The starting and/or ending location is usually easy to find in the write-up, but for many of us not familiar with the location of a city in a particular state, a little picture of the state (and perhaps one or two adjoining states) with a highlighted or blacked out area showing the general area of the route described would be very helpful for the reader to decide if the location is close enough to contemplate a ride (to that area). The way it is now, the reader has to either get out a paper map or go to the computer to find the location of the city within a given state; not a big chore, but one that could be eliminated with just a bit more info shown pictorially.

Thanks for listening.

Dave Trabert, Richboro, Pa Dave, We have looked at several different mapping programs and haven’t found any that we like. We’ll keep looking - meanwhile keep your maps handy.

frEE whEEliN’

(Continued from Page 4)

As I have said countless times we as riders need to put our best foot forward – all the time.

Opening a door for the elderly while holding your helmet can go a long way.

We are ambassadors for our sport, livelihood or lifestyle – whatever you chose to call it - it behooves us to be as polite, accessible and friendly as we can be.

We have a hard time with public relations as it is….

For me right now, if they allow a Prius to park I would hope they would allow a motorcycle or scooter as well.

Sometimes all animals are equal. whAtchAthiNkiN’

(Continued from Page 6)

weight and warmth, which include a pair of Held Warm N Dry that I picked up in Germany (told you I had a glove problem). Rounding out the list is my toasty Gerbing heated for ultimate comfort on those cold days.

So, what do I reach for on any particular day? If I’m just doing an errand or heading out for a short lunch ride my weapon of choice is my Honda. The protection I wrap myself in would depend on temperature; warm to hot means it’s the Airglide while cool to comfortable brings out the Morocco/AST combo. Short ride selection for footwear would be the IXS; these have been worn to death and have pretty much formed to the shape of my foot but have long lost their waterproofness. Not to seem too girly, I do like to somewhat color-coordinate so on comes the Nolan.

When heading out for a domestic road trip out comes the BMW with its deep bags and long-distance ability. Again the weather certainly plays into the equation, but since there’s no heading back to the closet if the weather turns, I’m more apt to reach for the Olympia AST with its great venting and pretty dependable waterproof hide, especially when the liner is zipped in. No question I’m donning the Forma GTs as these hold their water well and handle any amount of walking that may come into play. Out comes the Schuberth and I’m ready to roll.

Constants on any ride are at least two pair of gloves, regular and rain, sunglasses, Hedz neckwear, PlugUps custom ear plugs and my trusty CamelBak. Sure there’s a lot more stuffed in my tankbag, but these are the staples.

What about when heading somewhere on a plane, you ask? Since I’m not in need of the Autocom set up on both bikes, I’m likely to take the newest helmet or one in-house for testing and the gear really depends on the climate of the riding location.

Good gear, what we preach here at Backroads Central, is essential. Some find it in the well-worn leather jacket they’ve had since day one, others require the state-of-the-art, top-of-the-line newest, bestest there is. Whatever suits your needs or budget, please make sure you are well-covered. And don’t skimp on the gloves.

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011

Page 13

IND USTRY INFOBITES

News from the Inside

MAINE ADOPTS PRACTICAL TEST FOR MEASURING MOTORCYCLE SOUND

SCHUBERTH C3 AND C3W - NOW APPROVED FOR J&M COMMUNICATION SYSTEM INSTALLATION

Maine has adopted a simple yet reliable testing procedure that allows motorcyclists to prove their bikes don’t violate Maine’s motor vehicle sound law, the American Motorcyclist Association reports. Under a new law that went into effect on May 26, motorcyclists ticketed for excessive sound emitting from their motorcycle exhausts can go to a certified inspection station for sound testing. There, the exhaust system would be tested using the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) J2825 stationary sound testing procedure — “Measurement of Exhaust Sound Pressure Levels of Stationary On-Highway Motorcycles” — which the SAE developed and adopted with support from the Motorcycle Industry Council in May 2009. Under the SAE J2825 standard, which the AMA has endorsed, decibel limits range from 92 dBA at idle for all motorcycles, to 100 dBA at certain RPMs for various motorcycles, depending on the type of engine. If a motorcycle meets these limits during the certified testing, then it is evidence that the motorcycle doesn’t violate the state’s sound law. “This new law is good news for responsible motorcyclists who ride in Maine because it provides an objective way to prove that a motorcycle doesn’t violate the state’s sound law, rather than relying on subjective judgments,” said Imre Szauter, AMA government affairs manager. “We applaud the state of Maine — the first in the nation — for adopting the SAE J2825 standard.” The AMA has long maintained a position of strong opposition to excessive motorcycle sound. The SAE J2825 standard is at the heart of model legislation developed by the AMA for use by jurisdictions seeking a simple, consistent and economical way to deal with sound complaints related to on-highway motorcycles within the larger context of excessive sound from all sources.

Schuberth North America customers will now be able to have J&M corded headsets installed in a C3 or C3W motorcycle helmet.

“Although the Schuberth Rider Communication System allows riders to easily install a fully integrated Bluetooth system into a Schuberth C3 or C3W,” reports Randy Northrup, Schuberth North America’s General Manager, “we know that some riders would prefer to be wired into current onbike systems or to use CB radio. Customers who currently own J&M systems can be assured that when they purchase a new C3 or C3W that J&M will have a solution for connectivity to their bike and passengers.”

Customers who wish to have a J&M headset installed in a C3 or C3W will need to purchase the helmet from an authorized Schuberth dealer and either send the helmet to J&M or see them on-site at a motorcycle event.

“After getting our helmets tested and approved for use with the J&M integrated headset, we are happy to be able to offer this option for Schuberth customers since J&M offers some of the best communications systems available,” says Northrup.

Details about the C3 and C3W helmets and dealer locations are available on the Schuberth website: www.Schuberth.com (Continued on Page 15)

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MOTORCYCLES RETURN TO JORDAN After a 27-year hiatus, motorcycle licensing and registration returns to the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, thanks to King Abdullah II whose instructions were to establish a non-profit organization to organize motorcycle registration and ownership in the Kingdom and provide a safe and professional training program which resulted in the creation of the Royal Motorcycle Club of Jordan who, in turn, contacted the Motorcycle Safety Foundation in 2009. As a result, on June 23, the RMCJ will celebrate the grand opening of its MSF-recognized Training Center in Jordan. Like the MSF, the RMCJ’s Training Center embraces the notion that all riders need a strong knowledge base, finely tuned skills and a safety-first mindset that includes risk management strategies in order to enjoy motorcycling to its fullest.

The MSF’s 23 separate RiderCourses, like some of the programs adopted by the RMCJ, are designed to provide a lifelong action plan to keep motorcycling seriously safe and fun.

“We are very pleased to be bringing motorcycling back to Jordan with rider safety as a top priority,” said Omar Zarour, General Manager of the Royal Motorcycle Club of Jordan. “And we appreciate the MSF’s assistance in developing a program and facility that will help achieve our goals.”

The RMCJ’s Training Center incorporates versions of MSF curricula that were adapted to the specific traffic and roadway needs in Jordan. Other aspects of the RMCJ’s Safety Training Program include site management, program administration, student enrollment, RiderCoach training and certification, and more. As part of the program development, two RMCJ representatives traveled to the U.S. for training, which included successfully completing the 65-hour MSF RiderCoach Preparation Course.

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AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 14

INSID E TH E HELMET timE trAvEl The ride I promised myself for Saturday morning soon turned into Saturday afternoon and ultimately it made its way to the back burner until Sunday late in the day. Chores now completed, children dutifully parented for the time being, I needed some bike time; 100 miles to be exact as I was still working on those all-important break-in miles on a new machine.

With temperatures finally creeping past 50 degrees I was happy to see a group of four riding sport bikes just up ahead on the otherwise deserted beach road. One guy had a girl on the back of his Honda CBR. Using my well practiced powers of observation I surmised I was looking at an approximately 20 year old tush as I soon caught up and passed them. I noticed that one of the guys was on a diminutive but very attractive looking 250 Ninja which as I later learned was as perfect for him as my own Honda 250 had been for me when I was a neophyte rider.

The guy on the CBR turned up the testosterone a bit and we might have exceeded the speed limit for a few moments before I waved goodbye and the five of them waved back.

The judicious use of full face helmets and riding gear seemed to be a good indication that this group would survive the season.

So, I had some concerns when, after I stopped for a few minutes they never appeared in my mirrors. There are few places to pull off on this roadway so I couldn’t help wondering if someone was stuck or worse, they crashed.

I made a U-turn at the next opening in the median. What the hell. I needed about another 40 break in miles anyway.

Seems the group had also made a U-turn and they were now somewhere in front of me.

I didn’t see them again until I rounded the exit ramp that marks the end of this 15 mile two lane stretch of road. Two of them and the passenger were stopped and having a not too pleasant looking conversation with a couple of park police. The other two were riding slowly past the scene trying to bridge the gap between them by shouting to one another across the traffic lanes. Being stuck behind them this would normally annoy me but I knew they were addressing their comrades’ predicament.

It seemed pretty clear that the earthbound members of the group had just got pinched for speeding. The two that escaped the long arm of the law found a small shoulder to pull off on so they could talk and I kept going. Nothing to see or do here. I got about three miles before turning back again. Something was tugging at my memory. Ahh yes, my first encounter with the police while I was on two wheels. Seems they didn’t like the idea of pulling my childhood buddy on his skateboard while he held onto a rope tethered to my unlicensed moped. The cop could have caused me quite a bit of grief and probably got that moped taken away from me for good by a barely tolerating mom as it were, but he followed me home and made sure I parked it. His words and kindness sunk in because I got the thing properly licensed the next day as mom had demanded before I ride it in the first place.

I got back to find the two guys still talking. Yes, their friends had been going about 165 (doubtful) yes they were stopped by the police (certainly) and of course, both of them had permits only and no licenses (often, when it comes to 20 somethings on motorcycles).

Jeffrey Kurtzman We talked a little about bikes, riding and tickets and it was clear the two were smart enough to be glad they didn’t get stopped and not arrogant enough to think it had anything to do with their riding prowess. There was some guilt about leaving their friends but also an understanding that going back meant there would be two more tickets issued for unlicensed riders.

Through a cell phone conversation with the roadside soon-to-be jailbirds we learned that the kind officers were actually not going to give out triple digit speeding tickets. They were unfortunately, considering impounding the bikes because of the licensing issues.

Looking at the two guys and seeing the fear in their eyes for the plight of their comrades brought back memories of summers long ago. Chris and I would ride side by side for miles while shooting across 41 to Miami for a weekend of fun after work was over. There was more than one discussion with some good police officers who taught us a few lessons and ultimately sent us on our way. It took a few of these little lectures but they sunk in quickly enough to keep us alive. Then there was Greg, Mark, Artie and Ron and the week-long trip down south. There were occasional discussions with police – all of them in fact more good than bad. Yeah there was the time…..suddenly, one of the young guys called me “sir” and I remembered what century I was in.

So, I rode back to the scene of the crime to find two unbelievably understanding officers. My friend with the young lass on the Honda was all but a free man with only a ticket for operating a vehicle out of class although the bike had to stay. The officers then agreed to let me follow the two guys’ home to fulfill the requirements of having a licensed rider with them so the bikes did not have to ride shotgun on a flatbed after all. This was despite the fact that there seemed to be some suspicion that my young charges had tried to elude the pursuing officers a few minutes earlier; on a dead straight road nonetheless. The sheepish looks on their faces when I asked if that was true left no doubt. It seems that they only stopped because one of the bikes gave out and the police pulled up. How shortsighted. Don’t you guy know about radios?

Although, in 1989 I unknowingly blew past an officer in the dark of night on a ruler straight Route 941. I was well into the triple digits and as an added oddity I happened to be wearing a black tuxedo. All of the finest scofflaws do, don’t you know? The only reason he didn’t catch me was that I ran out of gas and the bike coasted in the moonless night in complete silence – right into the high weeds fringing the Everglades.

The now lit up patrol car sailed past me. It didn’t even dawn on me that I was the one who attracted his attention in the first place and I wondered what emergency he was racing to that evening. So, in my ignorance, I flipped the reserve on and restarted the bike – my headlight shining like a beacon through the grasses. The resulting Hollywoodesque squealing 180 the police car executed alarmed the egrets, the alligators and me in that order. In a split second I knew that the officer would never believe that I did not even know I was the pursuee and the bike losing all vital signs was a mere fortuitous coinci-

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 dence as opposed to a deliberate effort to go into stealth mode. And how the hell do I even begin to explain why I was wearing a tuxedo on a bike? What followed then was a very deliberate effort to flee as I quickly pulled out and rode two miles before hiding the bike behind the trailer I called home for the time being. Then, I tucked myself under the covers as the spotlight from the cruiser panned across the little units that made up the development.

I snapped out of my reverie in time to ask the guys if the officers were going to find any issues after they returned from checking licenses and registrations. It was at that point the downward cast of a pair of eyes told me all I needed to know. I was sure one of the guys was not going to make it home in time for Sunday dinner that night. How did you know sir? He asked as he hurriedly explained that he had taken the plate off of his 1999 Yamaha and clipped it on his dad’s unregistered GSXR that was now sitting before me. Look back a few paragraphs and see the previous aforementioned moped/skateboard tale my boy. The lack of a license plate has failed to stymie the will of many a lad from going for a ride when Spring arrives. Judging by the young man’s halfhearted attempts to reach his father on the cell phone it seemed he was more interested in facing roadside justice than pop’s wrath at having his bike pinched. The grim look on the troopers’ faces when they returned from their car confirmed that they discovered the deception. Even with this newest charge the angry officers were still trying to help the guy by insisting he reach his dad so they would not have to impound the bike.

Junior had given up the ghost and he now actually looked like a ghost when the officers asked him to call his mother so they could talk to her. I expect his dad is paying the police impound yard ransom right about now and his son, Jesse James has made a run for the border thinking he committed a hanging offense.

My friend on the Honda told me that this was his first season riding and both the officer and I questioned his judgment when it came to topping over a hundred with a young lady on the back. I would never do anything as irresponsible as that – well there was that girl in San Francisco. We would wait until the streets were empty and the city was asleep. Then, we would blast through that wonderful town; helmetless and occasionally catching a little air as the bike flew over the hills. Decorum and the desire for a happy marriage today forbids me from continuing.

Page 15 When the officers asked her for her name and contact information, despite a tough looking little barbell pierced through her eyebrow, the young lass on the back of the Honda broke down in tears. I tried to look serious as she shook her head yes to each of my questions. Yes, her mom was unaware she was seeing someone with a bike; yes she would kill her if she found out and yes he routinely let her off a few blocks from home so mom would not know.

How did you guess sir? Because that is the way it is supposed to work with young men, girls and motorcycles my dear. You’ll understand that all too soon and the world will be a little duller for it.

Soon, we were on the road and safely back at the Honda rider’s house. A few more thank you sirs (a little grey hair will earn you those sometimes) and we parted ways – them promising to get licenses and me wondering if they knew how lucky they were. And not for getting away with a few tickets - but to be young and respectful enough to be scared stiff on the side of the road for a while, to be redeemed by some good fortune that day and to think that a ticket or two, an impounded bike and an angry dad were going to affect their lives forever. I (and probably those generous officers as well) got to take a trip that spanned three decades in less than an hour. It was a good break in ride for all of us.

iNfobitEs (Continued from Page 13) VICTORY RIDE APP FOR YOUR SMART PHONE Created by the devoted motorcycle enthusiasts at Victory Motorcycles, Victory Rides is a must-have app for the true American biker. With this app, everything you need for adventures on the open road is only the touch of your finger away.

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AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 16

BIG CITY GETAWAY thE bAttlE of hubbArdtoN vErmoNt’s oNly rEvolutioNAry bAttlEfiEld Many riders who think they know history might tell you that the giant monument in Bennington is in honor of the Revolutionary Battle fought there.

Truth is that battle was actually fought a bit west in New York. But, Vermont does have its own hallowed ground, miles north at Hubbardton.

This battle, if it had gone the other way, would have changed everything and we dare say this nation would not be the same if not for Colonel Seth Warner and the Green Mountain Boys.

Our Patriot Army was in retreat from Burgoyne’s Red Coats. When these exhausted men had marched over 20 miles, reaching the hills of Hubbardton, they transferred a number of soldiers from the main army to the rear guard.

The main army would continue their southward retreat and the rear guard, now numbering 1,000 to 1,200 men, would protect them from the pursuing British.

Rear guards were a standard military security strategy to protect retreating troops. The mission of a rear guard is to delay the enemy in their pursuit, force the enemy to deploy all their forces in action with the rear guard, engage the enemy in such a way as to avoid close combat, and to withdraw safely as soon as possible.

Colonel Seth Warner led the expanded American rear guard. It consisted of his Green Mountain Boy Continental regiment and some militia; Colonel Francis leading a portion of his Massachusetts Continental regiment and selected units from other regi-

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind ments; and Colonel Nathan Hale with his 2nd New Hampshire Continental Regiment and a number of sick and stragglers.

The advancing British were seasoned Regulars, superior to the Americans in training, experience, and equipment. They consisted of Brigadier General Simon Fraser, one of Burgoyne’s best line officers, and his elite Advance Corps; Major Robert Grant with his 24th Regiment of Foot; Major Alexander Lindsay leading the British light infantry; Major John Acland with the British grenadiers; and Major General Baron von Riedesel and his German Brunswick troops.

As darkness turned to dawn the sultry morning of July 7, Warner’s rear guard was encamped in the vicinity of what is now called Monument Hill.

The exhausted men were resting before continuing south to join St. Clair’s troops at Castleton.

At 5:00 a.m. American pickets in the saddle near Sargent Hill, to the north-

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Page 17 west of Monument Hill, spotted approaching British scouts. The pickets fired, and moved back to join their main body. By 6:30, as the first British soldiers reached Sucker Brook, the American delaying companies started firing-killing Major Grant and 21 others. Thus began the Battle of Hubbardton, the first time Burgoyne’s army met the resistance and bravery of Americans in battle.

Some of the American rear guard moved to a strategic defensive location atop Monument Hill, which they had prepared the day before by cutting down trees so the tangle of outstretched branches faced the enemy. The British attacked the hill, but were repulsed and forced back to their former position.

The Americans returned to the hilltop and again the British attacked and were repulsed. The battle continued on as the British tried to encircle the Americans, who consolidated their position behind a brush fence on the east side of the road to Castleton. British General Fraser realized he needed reinforcements to win the battle and sent word to von Riedesel, following behind, to join him.

British grenadiers, trying to keep the rear guard from retreating southward, scrambled up the rugged Pittsford Ridge mountain, well to the east beyond the fence, and formed a human barrier across the road and up the mountain. By 8:30 a.m. von Riedesel’s Brunswickers had arrived, with a band playing loudly and soldiers singing hymns. They attacked the American northern flank, which was just about to trap the British on their left. In the fierce fighting on the mountain Colonel Francis was killed. The rest of the American rear guard withdrew as best as they could over Pittsford Ridge. There was occasional gunfire along the ridge for some time, but by 8:45 a.m. the battle was over.

The American rear guard had successfully accomplished its mission. It fully deployed the pursuing British, delaying them long enough so St. Clair and his main army could safely retreat southward. These soldiers also skillfully disengaged from their enemy, fighting the British to a near standstill, and avoiding further American casualties and pursuit. The British held the field after the fighting was over and in technical terms won the battle, but their losses were so heavy that General Fraser gave up chasing St. Clair and his army. Instead, the British stayed at Hubbardton for several days to care for the wounded and to bury their own dead.

They left the American dead on the field, and brought the wounded and prisoners north to Mount Independence and Fort Ticonderoga.

The Battle of Hubbardton involved approximately 2,130 troops; 1,000 to 1,200 Americans, 850 British, and 180 Germans. It resulted in the deaths of 41 American, 50 British, and 10 German soldiers. Of the 244 wounded 96 were American, 134 British, and 14 Ger-

man. The British took 234 American prisoners. Total casualties, including prisoners, were roughly 27 percent of all participating troops.

This battle was the beginning of the end for Burgoyne and his great military plan. On August 16 he suffered a stunning blow when Brigadier General John Stark led American forces to defeat two detachments of Burgoyne’s army sent to capture much needed supplies at the American arsenal in Bennington, Vermont. Soon after the Battle of Bennington Burgoyne wrote about the people of Vermont as “the most active and most rebellious race on the continent” and that they were hanging “like a gathering storm” on his left. On October 17, 1777, after the battles of Saratoga, he surrendered with his entire Army.

Today visiting the battle site the area has a peaceful and serene feel. The monument, although small compared to the huge one in Bennington, is stately and well suited for the site. For a few dollars you can walk the battlefield and small informative plaques will tell the story.

Next time you’re riding in Vermont take a spin to Hubbardton. This ride will start from one of our favorite places in Vermont, the Gray Ghost Inn.

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Page 18

Bergen County Harley-Davidson Presents

WE ’RE OUT TA HE RE Elk mountain homestead 401 homestead drive , benezette, PA 15821 (814) 787-5168 • experienceelkcountry.com Right off of Pennsylvania’s triple nickel, Route 555, you will find a most magical place.

When we were there the silence was deafening. Barn Swallows flitted around us as we sat atop the silo overlooking something that had disappeared years ago, only to be returned thanks to some forward-thinking people.

Elk. Huge, beautiful….majestic.

This was our second attempt at visiting the elk of Pennsylvania. Heavy storms had stopped us after our Spring Break and we were determined to find us some elk.

Riding into Benezette we headed to the new visitor’s center. Opened just last Fall, it

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a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads gives the traveler a great insight on the elk and how and why this has all happened. The museum is great, but the movie is superb! Literally 4-D! It snowed on us.

When we entered the visitor’s center, around 5pm, we were told the elk probably wouldn’t return for a few hours as they take shelter in the shade during the hot summer hours. We inquired about lodging in the area and were told of a house that they have on the grounds; an old homestead that has been redone to offer the best place in the region to view elk.

Why take a hotel room when you can have a home?

Three bedrooms, each with its own flavor; the Bunkhouse, the Louis

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011

Page 19

L’Amour room and, what we called the Hunter’s Room.

Up until this night we had never slept beneath a Tom Turkey or Bearskin. Now we have.

Whoever designed this place really deserves credit as it is Americana all the way.

Rates for the Homestead change seasonally, with peak season naturally being in the autumn months.

Base peak price is $200 per night for six people and lower in the summer months, as well as during the week. Even better is that proceeds from your stay go back to help the elk and other wildlife through the Keystone Elk Country Alliance. Check the site for full details.

Best of all is the Silo. Just a few steps from the Homestead there is a multi-story silo that has a sitting area atop it. From here you can get a great view of the meadow where the elk come to forage each night.

When we arrived we spent some time at the Museum and then, as we wanted to see the elk, we headed to the Benezette Hotel for a quick dinner. They have a great bar and restaurant and, if the Homestead is

AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 20 too large or dear for you, they have rooms as well.

Fed and watered we headed back to the Visitor’s Center, taking in the very interesting documentary of the elk.

At one time there were thousands of Elk in this region, but when Europeans arrived they basically devastated the herds.

In the early 1900’s elk were reintroduced from the Rockies and since then have flourished under the watchful eye of Pennsylvania.

These days the Visitor’s Center and Homestead are a small jewel of the Keystone State.

They have also introduced fishers – much to the anger of local porcupines.

Back at the Homestead we made ourselves comfortable and then headed up to the Silo for sunset and a bit of elk viewing.

A bottle of Pinot Noir came along and we were at the beginning of this story. It really doesn’t get any better than this night.

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Below us workhorses snorted and stomped. Out in the field dozens of elk cows wandered out for an evening’s meal, small calves along with them.

Suddenly to our left a huge male came out, his antlers just starting to grow at this time of the season.

We watched silently as the elk enjoyed the first evening of summer with us.

So, other than the elk, the Homestead and the Museum… why should you journey to Elk Country?

Simple – some of the best riding in the east!

This region has it all.

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Give them a call… book the Homestead.

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Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s M YSTER IOUS AMER ICA Tim Wineland

Evil rocks A rAiNy Night iN gEorgiA guidEstoNEs couNtry It is a dark and stormy night…

The rain pummels the metal roof. It is incessant, hopeless. It beats a rapid, staccato cadence in the thick air of my tiny abode, into my brain. Unrelenting; a demonic drum-roll reminding me of the misfortunes that guided me to this place, this meager refuse; this squalid ten-by-twelve storage shed outside a convenience store; outside Elberton, Georgia; just across the river from South Carolina; just on the edge of insanity. It reminds me that I have to pee.

My tortured mind remembers. I remember packing this morning for a leisurely trip to see a strange and forlorn obelisk: a stone enigma that defies logic and geography; a monument to worldly dreams or domination piled high in a lowly cow pasture. I remember the mysterious words of wisdom or worry, I dare not say which, in various and archaic languages inscribed upon the smooth rock faces. I remember now where I left my rain suit.

I remember donning the rain suit early as teasing showers lurked about; sporadic spells of half-hearted drizzle, but nothing of substance. Then they were gone; dispelled by some mystic wind as I arrived at my beguiling destination. Perhaps the artifact itself has

some power over atmospheric convection; perhaps it is immune to the laws of nature and Georgia. The sky was suddenly blue, the air curiously calm – like that before a storm, it seems to me now.

I recall removing my warm, waterproof coverings and marveling at the bizarre structure before me: an immense granite monolith…no, a multi-lith; a tribute to calligraphy, an insult to common sense. I remember the stark runes emblazoned upon each surface of the towering atrocity and wondering who, or what, had determined the omnipotent verbiage; and that it should be displayed in the eight worldly scripts of English, Spanish, Swahili, Hindi, Hebrew, Arabic, Chinese, and Russian – nine counting the graffiti. It left no doubt as to why the French despise us so.

Many learned folks insist the text implores mankind to cooperate, to seek understanding, to tread common cow pastures betwixt steaming piles of political poo. Or maybe not.

The enlightened local scholars and rural clergy have instead discovered its true intent.

The stone absurdity is an abomination, an occultist’s calling card; a “gift” from unknown persons for unknown reasons, certainly evil. As if in mocking disregard for all that is sacred, a viewing hole is drilled through the top stone and aligned to the North Star. Having looked through it during a weaker moment,

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 I now fear for my soul.

It makes sense; my vile predicament now has reason. I am imprisoned in this musty metallic tomb because I frequented an atrocity, paid homage to satanic stones, read blasphemous blathering, glimpsed an unholy hole. The grotesque image is burned upon my brain; my eyes see naught but gruesome granite piled in sacrilege to the sky, that fleeting, absurdly blue sky that so quickly turned black and malicious and is imploring my bladder to burst…

Oh, the horror… the horror…

Georgia Guidestones, Elberton, Georgia: In June of 1979, an unknown person or persons under the pseudonym R.C. Christian hired Elberton Granit Finishing Company to build the structure.

The site was chosen for its remoteness and its source of granite, as Elbertson

Page 23 promotes itself as the ‘Granite Capital of the World’. The location makes some sense from a logistical point of view; but it boggles the mind as to why such a rural landscape was chosen for such a mysterious message.

Apparently Mr. Christian left $50,000 in a local bank, told the locals that they would never see him again, and vanished forever. The citizens of Nuberg followed his instructions and in March of 1980 unveiled this ‘Stonehenge’ to the world. Well, somewhere between 100 and 400 people, anyway.

The following ‘rules’ are displayed in English, Spanish, Swahili, Hindi, Hebrew, Arabic, Chinese, and Russian: Maintain humanity under 500,000,000 in perpetual balance with nature.

Guide reproduction wisely - improving fitness and diversity.

Unite humanity with a living new language.

Rule passion - faith - tradition - and all things with tempered reason.

Protect people and nations with fair laws and just courts.

Let all nations rule internally resolving external disputes in a world court.

Avoid petty laws and useless officials.

Balance personal rights with social duties.

Prize truth - beauty - love - seeking harmony with the infinite.

Be not a cancer on the earth - Leave room for nature - Leave room for nature.

An Explanatory Tablet located on the grounds explains the curious astronomical features, such as the precise alignment and viewing holes drilled into the stones, as well as the daunting Physical Data: the four support stones are over 16 feet high, weighing approximately 43,000 pounds each. The entire structure looms to nearly 20 feet high and weighs in at around 107 tons.

Elberton is approximately two hours due east of Atlanta, one and a halfhours southwest from Greenville, South Carolina. The physical address for the Georgia Guidestones is 1065 Guidestones Rd., Nuberg, GA, just outside of Elberton. For more information on this entry into Mysterious America, you can google Georgia Guidestones or visit Elberton’s Granite Museum (1 Granite Plaza NW, Elberton, GA) where there is an exhibit about the Guidestones and additional information.

AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 24

G REAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN Vince Johnson

kAthy’s crAb housE ANd fAmily rEstAurANt 107 fifth strEEt/routE 9, dElAwArE city, dE • 302-834-2279 The two live crabs were crawling across the counter. Watching them made me think, ‘Who decided you could eat a crab’. Whoever it was must have been one very hungry person. I wondered if they invented beer also. Kathy, her teenage son RJ, and Amy had let the crabs loose for some pictures.

Kathy’s originally opened as a small local seafood market in 1982 and served only take-out for many years. In 2000 they built a new restaurant with a small, attached lighthouse (not one to climb up) and an enclosed deck.

While it is a family-oriented restaurant, they do serve beer and wine and motorcyclists are welcome.

Some of the items on their menu include appetizers like crab bisque, steamed shrimp, clam

tasty places to take your bike

strips, hushpuppies, mozzarella sticks, and onion rings. They have tossed and Caesar salads with chicken or shrimp. Subs include Italian, ham, turkey, tuna and cheese steaks. The kids menu has hamburgers, hot dogs and grilled cheese. The sandwich menu includes crab cakes, flounder, ham, turkey, Reuben and chicken wraps. Dinner entrees include a corn muffin and two choices of macaroni salad, potato salad, green beans, coleslaw or fries along with the crab cakes, flounder, scallops, chicken, turkey or meatloaf. There is apple pie and the usual selection of beverages.

Kathy’s is located next to Route 9 and the Chesapeake and Delaware Branch Canal. Route 9 is a pleasant motorcycle ride that partially winds its

way between Delaware City and Dover, Delaware. Between Delaware City and Dover there are no red lights and only a few stop signs. The upper third follows

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011

Page 25 seven days a week from 11am to 9PM. Their web site is http://kathyscrabhouse.com/index.html. Their phone number is 302.834.2279. It is located at 107 Fifth Street (Route 9) in Delaware City, Delaware. The GPS coordinates are N39.5708° & W75.5914°.

the Delaware River and the Delaware Bay, while the rest of it winds its way through farmlands and ends on the East side of Dover Air Force Base. The C5 cargo aircraft there are huge. It is about 40 miles and an hour or so drive from Delaware City to Dover. It can be slightly bumpy in places and there are no shoulders. As it follows the river, it is a flat ride and barely above sea level. If you travel it at high tide or when there are strong onshore winds you will occasionally find yourself driving below sea level through water that crosses the road.

On the river side of Delaware City is Fort Delaware.

The ferry boat ride there takes about 10 minutes, and you may easily spend several hours searching the Civil War period Fort and the grounds of Pea Patch island.

There is a fee for the boat ride and entry. See www.destateparks.com/park/fort-delaware/index.aspt for information. The State Park is open on a limited schedule from May thru September.

Over the years we have eaten at Kathy’s many times.

It is reasonably priced, although seafood market prices vary considerably, has a pleasant atmosphere, and the folks that work there have always been pleasant to us.

Like any restaurant they get crowded sometimes, but we are rarely in a hurry these days.

Kathy’s is open seasonally from April thru October,

AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 26

F

or many of you - us too - Americade is a yearly ritual. It signals a passage of the seasons when it doesn’t seem all that long ago we were shoveling snow, then planting the garden, riding our Spring Break Rally and suddenly we find ourselves piloting down Canada Street along the southern shores of beautiful Lake George, New York.

For two decades and a bit we have taken the quick ride from our home to the world’s largest motorcycle touring rally, located in the southern part of the Adirondack Mountains. Most times we are on the road the weekend before and make a few stops before rolling into Americade; but this year we had the July issue to finish and take care of a few things before escaping north.

We had planned a dawn departure that Tuesday, but with all done by early Monday afternoon we decided to skedaddle a day early and blasted off that Monday afternoon.

A

c ad e i r e m B Brian Rathjen

ack to the Lake

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 We meandered north along the eastern side of ‘The Gunks’ (Shawangunk Mountains for you non-New Yorkers) and then made time on the Thruway north and did the short 200 miles in superb time; rolling into town as the sun was about to set.

We grabbed our townhouse, Backroads Central North, at the Inn at Erlowest and, after saying hi to our short-term neighbors and long-time friends, we rode into town to take in the fairly light crowds and some Mexican chow.

The place was just starting to get full, but Monday evening made for a great combination of people and bike watching.

Shira asked me what my first thoughts were riding back after coming here for so many years.

Truthfully it is something that hits inside. And, it’s a good thing.

Many years and many smiles come along with Americade. I was ready for another great week.

Tuesday started with a run to the Holiday Inn to get our wristbands, pay the ever-increasing parking fee, and say hello to a few friends along the way.

Americade offers a multitude of activities; but one cannot have the entire Americade experience without visiting the Tour Expo, located on the lake and the Forum - the indoor version of the Expo. With the Forum right down the road we went looking to see what was new.

There seemed to be plenty of tour operators playing up different place to ride around the planet – always a good thing for us – and some neat new products as well as some of the solid players in the motorcycle world.

Olympia Motosports had a huge booth and was doing a brisk business, as were many others, and we made it a point to drop by Garmin as well to see what was new and to get our GPS updated with the latest software.

Along the way we ran into Clement Salvadori.

Page 27 Clem, whom you will find each month in RIDER as well as other motorcycle publications, was representing the Californiabased magazine and, in addition to speaking and hosting a few functions, he also was to share a scoot with a lucky RIDER winner who had won a contest to ride with the famed journalist.

For many folks who read word samurais like Clement Salvadori and others each month in the national magazines, getting a chance to ride with and spend some time with such scribes can be a chance of a lifetime. We thought for Clement it was a bit like being raffled off for a celebrity date. But, Clem is always a good sport.

After chatting with him a bit we thought it would be fun to tag along. If anything we would get us a chance to ride with our world-traveling friend.

Right on time Rory Anderson, from Lancaster, Pennsylvania joined Clem and the four of us took off north along the lake and then west on Route 8, one of my favorite roads in the region. We eventually had a late lunch at a small place in Chester.

All in all it was a great ride and enjoyable lunch, Rory being an interesting fellow and a pleasure to be with.

AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 28 By this time the two-wheeled traffic was everincreasing and after lunch we headed down to the Tour Expo to take it all in before things got really crowded.

The previous few days had been rather pleasant but we were warned of some pretty hot days in store.

By the time we were done with the Tour Expo it was certainly time to retreat to our townhouse and the nearby pool for the rest of the afternoon.

Somewhere around 6ish our friends Michael and Nuri, from Rising Wolf Garage, arrived. We have been sharing a place with these folks for more than two decades (wow!) and it was nice to have our little Americade family back together.

That evening we rode down to Fort William Henry, the site of the famed siege during the French & Indian War and the inspiration for James Fenimore Cooper’s Last of the Mohicans.

For years most of the activities and demo rides Americade is famous for were run out of the Roaring Brook Ranch, but this year everything was moved to the centrally-located Fort on the lake. Excellent location.

brought up their newest offering. Still it was good to see all the manufacturers supporting the great American rally.

This night there were a number of excellent seminars. Riding guru Lee Parks, followed by Clem Salvadori and perennial Americade favorite Fred Rau. We hung around for a bit of each and then took off to find some late night dining and a run through town that was getting more and more full each evening.

Photo: Mike Fischer

Photo: Mike Fischer

Photo: Ken Kelly

This year also saw the return of many manufacturer’s demo fleets, with a full fourteen OEMs trailer machines to be ridden, tested and enjoyed by Americaders. Most brought up full fleets, but some just

Wednesday promised to be a scorcher, as a serious heat wave had moved into the northeast, so we got out early and proceeded to try our best at getting lost.

Well…. as lost as you can get with the now ‘ever present’ Garmin GPS on both machines and US Military satellites keeping track high above.

Still we managed to find some great roads a bit off the beaten track and a few miles on well-groomed gravel to give the GSs a little ‘crudentials’.

Heading west into the Adirondack Park we had to keep an eye on the clock as we had a lunch gathering we needed to attend around noon on the lake.

At 11:30 I asked the Zumo the best way to get back to Lake George and a few seconds later we were vectoring on that route – just 25 minutes out.

While moving on the bike, with plenty of cooling air making its way into our Olympia vented riding gear it seemed like the perfect day.

I had some classic Chicago working softly in the headsets and all was right with the world. Heading past Lake Luzerne there was a road block up ahead

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 with the highway department telling us to head down an unmarked road and to bear left to get back on Route 9N. I wondered what would cause road workers to put up a makeshift detour. Roadwork is usually planned weeks or months ahead of time with semi-permanent detour signs put up a day or two before work begins.

Shira radioed the same thought to me and we worried that something bad might have happened.

As detours go this was a delightful change of plans, as this tiny road was most excellent, but when we popped back out onto Route 9N I saw this side of the road was blocked by Sheriff’s cars.

I signaled one young officer over and asked what was up.

“Motorcycle accident,” he said matter-of-factly.

“Is everybody all right?” I inquired.

“Well”, he said a bit too flippantly, “the semi-truck driver is fine but the two bikers are dead”.

My heart sank as the beautiful sunny day had just darkened quite a bit.

We heard later that the accident involved a semi carrying steel I-beams that was cut off, by a motorcyclist, and had stopped short causing one of the badly secured steel beams to swing off to the side of the truck, killing the approaching rider and his passenger, two Canadians, instantly.

Very sad to hear, but things like this are constant concerns to we riders – although I don’t think anything could have been done in a freakish accident such as this.

Our thoughts to them and their families.

We like to split up Americade between fun and business and many times a sweet combination of both.

Lunch with our friends from Whitehorse Press is always a treat and a good chance to catch up with a few of the other scribes in the motorcycle world.

After lunch that afternoon Shira was on a mission.

A very cool and tasty mission; as she was in the middle of her summer ice cream runs and had seen a “Throwdown with Bobby Flay” that pitted New York’s favorite chef against a woman who owned a place called The Ice Cream Man.

We had a great ride and even greater ice cream and then rode east to the border with Vermont then north back towards the Lake George region.

That night Ken Condon, safety writer for Motorcycle Consumer News, had a very instructional seminar and drew a decent crowd. Folks like Ken are well worth reading and the knowledge safety experts can infuse into you just might save your life.

We bounced around that evening visiting some friends for dinner and making it an early night.

A few days earlier Shira had watched some folks parasailing over the lake and commented how she always wanted to do this.

As I live to please her I surprised her with a little flight the next morning.

Page 29 Strapped into two very secure harnesses the powerboat picked up speed and before we knew it we were 300 feet above the water with a wonderful birds eye view of the Queen of American Lakes.

After lunch we strolled the demo area up at Fort Henry and then took notice of the darkening clouds coming in from the west.

The heat this day was oppressive and a strong storm front was making its way through New York and bringing with it, hopefully, a cooler and more comfortable atmosphere.

The storms that came through were on the violent side and we felt badly for anyone caught out on the road, or water (you know who you are) while these squalls rolled through.

As promised the rain brought a bit of relief from the heat and humidity and, once again, Americade had superb weather return.

When the storms had lightened we headed down to the indoor Forum for another walkabout and then met some friends to head up to Warrensburg.

This was not to partake in the “not really Americade stuff,” though Nick Pleznick does have seriously great products, but to stop by Warrensburg’s

Page 30 real treat – the famous Oscar’s Smokehouse.

This meat store has been a staple in these parts for decades and with our planned Friday night barbeque get-together forming up nicely Oscar’s was a must.

Thursday evening we had tickets to see two comedians - Jodi Weiner and “Last Comedian Standing” winner Alonzo Bodden.

We got into town early and stopped at Giuseppe’s for some pizza and to watch the crowds and bikes go by. The fellow at the table next to us looked so familiar and it took us a minute or two to remember Jerry who had ridden with us in Mexico a few years back. You never know just who you will run into at Americade.

The two comedians were a hoot, with Alonzo doing a wonderful job of making fun of all the different motorcycle brands equally.

Thursday night found Canada Street packed and we eventually found a spot and had the required ice cream before walking up and down the strip.

People watching here is almost as fun as bike watching.

With perfect riding weather promised for Friday we had a plan for some miles on some interesting Adirondack roads.

AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS Up and out early we visited with Fred Rau and his coffee club at 7am and then grabbed breakfast with Fred and Cherrie before meeting up with friends for a loop into the Adirondack Park and down through Lake Sacandaga.

This morning was a full 30 degrees cooler then the previous day with midmorning temperatures in the 60s. With the best day of the entire week on tap all the venues were crowded, as were many of the roads. A light cloud cover kept the day on a pleasant side and we did a nice 200 mile loop first north, then south and then north again through the tiny burgs that call the largest park in New York home.

With our annual Americade barbeque time quickly coming up that night I did one more lap of the Tour Expo and picked up a new shield from Nolan for my helmet and some new OSI lightweight covers for the bikes. If you really need it you will probably find it at the Expo.

That night we had about two dozen friends, riders and industry types come over for food and fun.

The folks from Olympia had brought a Yamaha along for the ride – Yamaha guitar, not bike. Excellent.

Meanwhile many Americaders headed to the closing ceremonies and fireworks at the Great Escape Park, just south of Lake George.

If the beginning of the week was blistering hot, it finished a bit on the cool and wet side.

A soggy rain front sailed in from the west and Saturday was not the greatest day but Americaders made the best of it, filling up the Expo and Forum in search of last day deals.

Many Americaders braved the fog and clouds up at Prospect Mountain for the final barbeque, but we had other plans.

We did our last lap of it all, and then took a ride south to the Outlet store so Shira could buy a pair of Vibram shoes (silly five toed shoes, if you ask me) and we picked up a pair each for our favorite little girls Mia and Tessa who would look so cool with them.

With the rain continuing on and off this day indoors seemed better than out and Sunday promised to be a better day, especially for those heading home.

That Sunday, as usual, we did a quick pass by the now very empty streets of Lake George. Compared to the huge crowds of the previous week the place had an almost ghost town look to it early on Sunday.

We started heading south riding the big road to New Paltz and then a quick 70 backroads miles to home.

As much as we like Americade it is always good to pull into your own driveway and home.

Another Americade done and in the books…only 51 weeks to go till the next one.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011

Page 31

Gooch’s Garlic Run 2011

But, last year things changed.

Gooch’s has been known for the occasional smattering of moisture. Last year some big storms canceled the ride until the rain date, but the permits that were good for one day were not for the other and Gooch’s Garlic Run for 2010 stayed at the Rockaway Mall – the traditional starting site.

For years the Blue Knights IX had a running battle with the folks in Little Italy. Restaurateurs loved the idea of an incredibly busy Wednesday night, but the Yuppie apartment dwellers detested the raucous evening.

With the hassles of a run to Little Italy growing, a Plan B was needed. In stepped Newark Deputy Police Chief Anthony Campos, who suggested bringing Gooch’s Garlic Run to the Ironbound section of Newark, New Jersey.

If you have never been to the Ironbound then you have missed some serious Spanish and Portuguese delight.

Besides not having to ride into Manhattan through the choking Holland Tunnel is a blessing all itself.

It’s now a Jersey thing

words: Brian Rathjen Some years ago – 24 to be exact – a bunch of north Jersey riders got together and decided to do a run into Little Italy for some food and maybe raise a bit of money for some local families.

Nearly a quarter century later Gooch’s Garlic Run is the biggest ride in the region, bringing together riders of all makes and models for a great night of bikes, food, camaraderie and good cause.

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 So now Gooch’s is an all-Jersey thing – and we like it that way!

This year the weather was as good as it gets and as Campos said he thought, “We received the okay from a Higher Authority” that the move to Newark was so blessed weather-wise. We agree.

With almost 1,000 riders staging at the Rockaway TownSquare Mall, the afternoon was exceptional. Vendors of food and motorcycle stuff on hand with their offerings as was the band Swampers to entertain.

The ride went fairly smoothly, except for me having to dodge yet another rider who had a gravity storm right in front of me – this happens a lot to me on these sorts of rides - and about 45 minutes later, after an easy ride along I-80 and 280 both of which were lined with pedestrians cheering the ride on, we pulled into the Ironbound.

The Iberia Restaurant had set up a giant picnic in their large castle-framed lot and the band Street Hassle and the Brass Balls, complete with full horn section and back-up singers Word Mamas were beyond awesome. Any band that can play ‘Vehicle’ and ‘Make Me Smile’ will do just that. This band, like

so many others involved, donated all their time and efforts to make this the best Gooch’s we can remember.

When Ariana requested Lady Gaga and the band and the other children all sang and played along, you couldn’t help but have a smile on your face. It’s something they will remember for a long time, as will we.

We avoided a bit of the crowd and ducked into Iberia’s restaurant across the street for seafood and steaks. You will never go hungry in the Ironbound.

Part of the almost $40,000 proceeds from this year’s Garlic Run went to Ariana McGuire, an 8-year-old girl,

Page 35

who survived a stroke and bleeding that resembled an aneurysm after a metaltipped arrow pierced her brain last summer, Steven Yang, 16, who suffered a brain injury in a car accident, Juliana Moreno, a 2-year-old with leukemia and Daniel Zawaski, 9, who has a brain tumor.

Next year will be the 25th anniversary of this run. Put it on your calendar - Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - and you’ll find out why Jersey rocks!

To check on other Blue Knight NJ IX runs visit their website: www.bknjix.org/RideSchedule.html

AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 36

Riding Solo in Tuscany called the Garfagnana (gar-phan-ya-na).

Bagni di Lucca sits in a steep gorge cut by a white-water river called Torrente Lima.

Town life centers around the three bridges that cross the Lima. SS12, the main drag through the town, is a state road (Strada Statale) that runs from the lovely small city of Lucca, home of opera composer Giacomo Puccini, to the lovely small city of Modena, home of opera greats Luciano Pavarotti and Mirella Freni. Must be something in the water!

Bill Amadio What did I want for my 60th birthday? That was easy. A road trip. A BIG road trip.

Since a bout with Graves’ disease effectively ended my wife Camille’s riding career, I’ve done my riding separate from our vacations together. This time, I wanted them both, so we set about finding an exotic location with great riding in the morning and great husband-and-wife tourism in the afternoon.

We chose Bagni di Lucca (bahn-yi d loo-ka), a oncegrand spa town in a lesser-known area of Tuscany

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Long acknowledged as the pinnacle of two-up motorcycling, the 2012 Gold Wing continues its remarkable legacy. Its travel-oriented creds include the latest generation of sophisticated electronic amenities, starting with an innovative GPS navigation system with user-friendly programmability for sharing favorite ride routes with friends and other riders, which can be accessed online via computer. The Gold Wing also now incorporates a built-in MP3/iPod® interface for a new SRS CS Auto™ technology surround-sound system for a premium listening experience. In addition to its renowned power-laden yet refined drivetrain and delightfully sporty handling, the 2012 Gold Wing also brings upgraded styling, increased luggage capacity, greater protection from wind and weather, revised suspension settings for enhanced ride compliance, and unparalleled comfort for both rider and passenger. In addition, packages for Navi, ABS and airbag do much to further the Gold Wing’s reputation as the most celebrated touring machine in motorcycle history.

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210 Route 10 West • East Hanover, NJ www.HanoverPowersport.com • 973-428-1735

Go See the Pros that Know How to Ride!

210 Route 10 West East Hanover, NJ www.HanoverPowersport.com

973-428-1735 honda.com ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET, EYE PROTECTION AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING. NEVER RIDE UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF DRUGS OR ALCOHOL, AND NEVER USE THE STREET AS A RACETRACK. OBEY THE LAW AND READ YOUR OWNER’S MANUAL THOROUGHLY. Apple® and iPod® are registered trademarks of Apple Inc. SRS CS Auto is a trademark of SRS Labs, Inc. CS Auto technology is incorporated under license from SRS Labs, Inc.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 The town is beautiful and active.

During the evening walk (called passeggiata), the parks and fountains attract townsfolk of all ages, from running kids and cruising teens to gray-haired couples and friends who probably ran and cruised the same spots way back when.

A network of staircases and switchback paths lead up from the river to terraced farms and postcard views of the gorge and the town.

We stayed at the Park Hotel Regina (www.coronaregina.it/index.php), a 17th century palazzo converted into a wonderful hotel with a great restaurant and pool and the most friendly and helpful owner and staff. Cost: €100 ($140)/night for a room with a terrace overlooking the river, breakfast included.

Renting a bike in Italy was remarkably simple. I worked with a great guy named Francesco at Central Italy

Page 37 Motorcycle Tours (www.cimt.it) who provided a fully-equipped BMW F650 GS at a reasonable price. The bike was perfect for the Garfagnana, and ran great the whole trip.

For 10 sun-drenched mornings, I was on the road by 7 and back by 11. That may not sound like much time, but it worked because I had no travel time to the mountains, and I saved the sightseeing for later in the day with Camille. My only stops were for espresso and some tire kicking at motorcycle-friendly coffee shops (bars in Italian) that were everywhere in this region.

Camille’s mornings involved sketching, walking, taking pictures, practicing her Italian with the locals and bringing back treasures from Bagni’s great wine and food shops. By noon, we were on our way to a tourist city like Florence (Firenze) or Pisa, or off the beaten path to a medieval hill town or a relaxing thermal spa. At night, we slept very well.

SS12 through the Lima gorge hugs the mountainside and winds around every jutting rock face and up and down every contour in the land. Heaven!

One right hand sweeper on this road went on for so long I started giggling

Bike Night thru Oct. 26 Wednesday 5-9pm Join us for a meal at The Riverview Restaurant at Rusty’s 105 Rusty’s Blvd, Honesdale, PA 18431 GPS: North 41.54590 • West 075.21750

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AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 38 inside my helmet. Just like a kid at Christmas! With so many curves coming so fast, I found myself riding with my index finger covering the front brake lever. All those pictures of racers doing the same thing suddenly made sense.

Side roads off SS12 go in one direction: up. They travel into desolate, but stunningly beautiful, country. As is typical for Italy, they never really veer far from civi-

at the top of a set of switchbacks so steep I doubted I could ride it. When an oncoming bus rounded the corner I was fearing, I decided I could make it after all, especially since the driver took the curve without so much as a pause in his conversation with a passenger.

People have lived along Garfagnana’s waterways since before the Romans, so I found a variety of crossings. The oddlylopsided Ponte del Diavolo (Devil’s Bridge), built in the 11th century, really captured my imagination. One legend surrounding the bridge tells of the builder calling upon the devil to finish the especially difficult construction in exchange for the lization. Along these first soul to cross the bridge. In a time before SPCAs, the builder got away roads, I passed rustic with sending a dog (or pig) on the initial crossing. The enraged devil tried to restaurants busily predestroy the bridge, succeeded only in distorting its shape, and finally threw paring for Sunday lunch himself into the river below. I spent a nice break at the bridge sipping capand even small towns puccino and talking to a German couple touring on a 1200GS. whose only level ground North of Bagni, the roads break out of the gorge and head up to ski country was on platforms built and the Abetone Pass. Pass roads are the quickest ways out of the mountains, out over the cliffside. so they are heavily used. These mountains are full of stone and wood that One of these towns was must be cut and delivered, and that means trucks: 18 wheelers with 3 rear axles for stone and tandem trailers for logs. The locals passed these trucks routinely, but I was content with their pace much of the time. If a truck was really lugging along, I passed or stopped for an espresso.

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 up stopped behind an 18-wheeler confronting a descending 18-wheeler at a spot that could not accommodate them both. The drivers got out and talked.

They examined the space. They pulled in their mirrors, but no luck. In the meantime, a tail (coda in Italian) of vehicles grew behind both trucks. I abandoned my bike and made for the safety of the roadside to supervise the situation with my fellow commuters. The drivers decided, and we concurred, the descending truck and cars would back up the hill to a wider spot about 50 meters behind. The choreography went flawlessly, and what looked like an impossible delay turned out to be a fun lesson in vehicle maneuvering and cooperation.

Remember SLOW-LOOK-LEAN-ROLL from your Motorcycle Safety Foundation course? I never used it more than on the switchback curves of these pass roads. My last encounter with roads like these was 3 years ago in West Virginia. Daily riding in Mercer County, NJ made me casual about these steps, especially since I usually pursue a leisurely pace. Here, if you make a mistake like rolling on the throttle before you’re heading where you want to go, you are in for some excitement. My initial weakness was ignoring SLOW. A few adrenaline rushes and hard leans on downhill, left-hand turns quickly cured me of that. The switchbacks also did wonders for throttle control, counter-balancing and keeping my eyes up.

They really were a great training course.

North of Abetone, SS12 veers off toward Modena. SS324 stays in the Garfagnana, and leads to the Radici Pass, a favorite weekend motorcycle destination, and the beautifully situated San Pellegrino in Alpe, named, according to legend, for an Irish (or Scottish) pilgrim (pellegrino in Italian) who ended his days in the wilderness here in the year 640. Today, San Pellegrino is a meeting place for all types of outdoor enthusiasts. Hikers (Italians call them trekkers), bicyclists, horseback riders and, of course, motorcyclists can always be found taking some sun in the piazza or snapping photos from the ridge leading up to the town.

Page 39 So, after so many great roads and sights, which one stands out as most memorable? It turns out the people are most memorable. Roberto, our hotel owner, always took time to thank us whenever we chose to eat in his restaurant. When our rental car was damaged, by a kid from town, while parked in his lot, Roberto took care of all the reports and treated us to dinner and wine.

I especially remember the owner of a roadside taverna in the middle of nowhere around Abetone. He had a faded picture of the Twin Towers over his cash register. When I asked, he launched into a monolog about the tears he and his neighbors shed for America on that day.

In the end, we agree our fondest memory is the Mitico family, whom we met through an organization (www.homefood.it) that arranges for tourists to visit Italian families and taste foods cooked by the women of the house (le cesarine). Antonietta, our hostess, worked with her mother to prepare a meal of what she called “uncontaminated tastes.” The pasta, wine, olive oil, bread, and after-dinner walnut liquor were all home-made. The meat and vegetables were bought locally, so even though it all looked like what they serve at the local pizzeria, the tastes were not of this earth. We ate outdoors (al fresco) in a shady arbor, with 3 generations of the family around the table with Camille and me.

In addition to day jobs, the family runs the Mitico Ranch (www.miticoranch.it). Piero, the father, says, “he has loved and lived with the horses for over 40 years.” Piero is truly a “horse whisperer.” His arrival at the stable announced playtime for the horses, the dog Lupa, and assorted bunnies and chickens. The ranch organizes horseback trekking to the same locations I visited by bike.

Although our chances of seeing these people again are small, we feel this trip brought us to friends in the Garfagnana.

Great Place for Groups or Rallies

AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 40

bAckroAds fourth ANNuAl hot dog ruN

saturday August 27th • 11Am • the sprinkle shack on route 15 in sparta, NJ Time once again for our annual Hot Dog Run! Yes, sometimes it’s private, but this time we’d love to have you join us. How many delicious Dogs can you devour? Is this a competition? Well, not exactly, but we will have a prize for the most downed dogs. The run starts from The Sprinkle Shack on Route 15 in Sparta, New Jersey and will combine some seriously great roads and some equally serious hot dogs. Only the best for you guys and gals. Portable EKG machines and Defibrillators will be on stand by. Questions? Give us a call at 973948-4176 or check updates on Facebook.

bAckroAds sPriNg brEAk Xiv

when: may 17-20, 2012 • where: the historic mimslyn inn – luray, vA Join Brian & Shira and start the 2012 riding season off right with a few days exploring the beautiful Shenandoah Valley, Blue Ridge Parkway and stunning surrounding Virginia countryside.

Our host hotel is the Mimslyn Inn, which just celebrated its 80th anniversary.

It was taken over in 2005 by the Asam family, the same owners as the Bavarian Inn in Shepherdstown, WV and another stop on the Backroads’ Rally circuit. It underwent a multi-million dollar renovation in 2008, which included adding the Speakeasy, a casual restaurant in the Prohibition-era style with live entertainment Tuesday – Friday. The Mimslyn also offers a fitness center and Seasons Spa to take care of your aching body after your workout. It’s the perfect base to explore places like the deep Luray Caverns, the largest in the eastern United States or the Luray Zoo, a local favorite.

Your choice of rooms are the historic featuring a queen bed for $99/night (total for three nights: $326.70) or a larger suite for $199/night (total for three nights: $656.70). We may have an outdoor BBQ one night which would be an additional $35/pp, but we’ll let you know later on that. As we always say, rooms are limited but this time we REALLY MEAN IT – there are only 45 historic rooms and a handful of suites so BOOK TODAY. Once they are gone, there are other hotels nearby for overflow.

In order to reserve into the Backroads Group, you must call them at 540-743-5105 and ask for that special booking. So, you’ve finished reading this, what are you waiting for? Pick up the phone and make the call. 2012 is right around the corner.

RIDE LIKE A PRO NJ Jerry ‘Motorman’ Palladino’s Training Classes Being Held in New Jersey ‘NEVER FEAR making a U-turn or dropping your 800lb. motorcycle again’ • Male-Female-Big-Small: It doesn’t matter • You can learn the 3 simple techniques that motor cops have been using for years • Our instructors - all active or retired motor officers - will show you how to use the motor cop riding techniques to better control and handle your motorcycle

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011

Page 41

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Page 42

Runnin’ with the Diavel ears ago when Europeans started to populate the mountains north of New Amsterdam, which would eventually be called the Catskills, they believed one series of peaks belonged to the devil. They felt that this range’s craggy cliffs were specially built by the devil so that he alone could climb them and occasionally retreat from the world of men. Today, they are famous for the deep gaps between them, which get lower in elevation as the mountains between them get higher when proceeding along the backroads of this part of New York.

So with this in mind it seemed apropos that we take Ducati’s new power-cruiser the Diavel, or devil in an Italian dialect, to enjoy a late April weekend runnin’ with these Catskill imps. We picked our way up through the north part of New Jersey from home base at Backroads Central.

Y

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011

Page 43 There are a number of ways up north from here. Some lope up Route 209 from Port Jervis, but that is a yawn and makes us drowsy.

Route 42 is nice, but we like to pick up Mountain Road, at the point where New Jersey’s Mother Road CR 519 runs into the Empire state and wiggle our way like this own evil serpent towards the Shawangunk ridge and then west.

This route cuts through Otisville, the home of the big Federal Correctional Institution. Here they house KSM - Khalid Shaikh Mohammed a devil if there was one. The Ducati, with its throaty 162 horses felt drawn there. We obliged.

By early afternoon we had crossed the Shawangunk, riding around the long way past the famed Mohonk House and then along the Ashokan Reservoir into Catskill State Park.

Along Route 208 we rode deep in the belly of the Devil’s Path and then up Route 214 making a quick pass by the Devil’s Tombstone.

Devil’s Tombstone is located in a rugged mountain pass in the Catskill Mountains called Stony Clove. The word ‘clove’ comes from the old Dutch

work “Kloove”, which means ‘gash or cut in the body of mother earth’. It is rumored that Stony Clove was a favorite haunt of the Devil during the early days in settlement of the Catskills, before he had his Ducati. One object closely associated with the Devil still survives here; the

Devil’s Tombstone itself. The tombstone is a large boulder, approximately seven feet by five, which was probably carried down the mountain many centuries ago by a landslide or glacier.

Seemed like there was a lot of devil-may-care stuff to find in these mountains. The oldest in the world – much like Satan himself.

We overnighted up in Hunter, New York and had a few friends join us.

The next morning we went for a little loop around the mountains and along the way found a small, but charming church. Not ones ever to pass up the (Continued on Page 47)

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AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 44

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS THE LONG AND SHORT OF IT FROM WEISE Two new gloves from WEISE, the track-specification Vortex and the short cuff Daytona, both featuring full grain leather construction and the Knox Scaphoid Protection System.

With a kangaroo leather palm, twin layered with Kevlar inserts at key impact points and integrated TPU reinforcement at the knuckles and fingers, the Vortex road/race glove provides a feeling of all-round security. Stretch panels at the base of thumb, top of the hand and fingers offer flexibility, feel and feedback.

Its ingenious adjustable Velcro retained wrist strap has a two-way cuff system that allows quick and easy fastening inside or outside jacket sleeves, ensuring a snug and secure fit. Retailing for $139.99 the Vortex comes in sizes XS 4XL black, and XS – 3XL in red, blue and white.

Joining the Vortex is the Daytona, a short-cut sports glove, tailored for riders who like the comfort and convenience of a short summer glove, but still want the high specification of a racing glove. Featuring full grain leather construction – twin-layered at key points – Knox SPS and integrated TPU reinforcement on the knuckles, there are stretch panels and a Kangaroo palm to aid fit, flexibility and feel. An adjustable Velcro retained strap on the neoprene cuff offers quick and easy entry and exit. Priced at $109.99 the Daytona is produced in sizes S - 3XL in red, blue, orange, yellow and white colourways, and in XS - 4XL in classic black.

All WEISE products are covered by a two-year warranty for complete peace of mind. For information on the 2011 WEISE range and a list of American stockists, call Fowlers Distribution on 203-597-8686 or visit www.fowlersdistribution.com.

MACHINEARTMOTO INTRODUCE BMW X-HEAD DOHC CYLINDER GUARDS MachineartMoto, designers of specialized products for BMW motorcycles, introduce X-Head DOHC cylinder guards for 2010 and 2011 BMW R1200 twin cam models. X-Head DOHC are designed to cover 80% of the face of the cylinder head to protect, not only the bottom initial impact area in a drop, but also the upper part of the cylinder head. Even in a driveway drop, the inertia of a fall will cause a bike to roll briefly onto the face of the cylinder before it settles down on its bottom edge. X-Heads cover more area than OEM and other aftermarket head guards.

The X-Head DOHC design benefits from considerable materials research and the selection of a DuPont “SuperTough” nylon selected for its blend of high impact strength, temperature and UV stabilization.

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011

Page 45

The injection molded shell is designed to give slightly in impact to prevent breakage. Between it and the cylinder head is a 7mm thick thermoplastic rubber liner that aids in dissipating impact force while preventing hard contact with the cylinder. Each side mounts via 3 stainless steel fasteners treated with Nyloc thread locking compound to assure a tight installation. “These cylinder guards are designed to look as well as they protect”, says Andrew Serbinski, President of Machineart. “Appearance and function are equally considered in our development work.

X-Head DOHC look better integrated with integrated with the shape of the cylinders than anything else available.”

Price: $189.00 Machineart Industrial Design www.machineart.com designs products sold by MachineartMoto through its online store www.machineartmoto.com, through BMW and independent dealers, and distributors outside of the USA.

SPECIAL K-PACK FROM KNOX K-Pack from Knox is the British company’s third generation back pack that, like its predecessors, sets new standards for motorcycle backpacks, with comfort, innovative design and practical features, including helmet carrier and integral waterproof cover.

Comfort and aerodynamics are key to carrying luggage on your back on a bike, so the K-Pack is engineered to hold the weight low over the hips, reducing stress on the lower back. It sits neatly on the wearer’s back, offering as little wind resistance as possible.

Knox have also added breathable ‘spacer’ fabric on inside of each strap, to help improve airflow and prevent the build up of moisture.

Providing 25 litres of space, the K-Pack has a main compartment that is accessed easily via a 180-degree zip and features a document sleeve, mobile phone pouch and key fob.

Packed with neat ideas, the K-Pack has a mesh bottle carrier on the outside, and removable storage pouch, which converts to a hip bag. Zip tabs can be stuck down with Velcro when closed, to prevent them flapping in the breeze.

When a helmet needs to be carried, place in the protective helmet bag provided, close using the securing chord and clip onto the front of the K-Pack. When not required, un-clip the helmet bag and replace with the handy extra storage pouch; this can be used for additional items or to carry the helmet bag ready for the next use. A visor pouch is also included with the K-Pack, which secures inside the main compartment, keeping spare visors well protected.

A fully waterproof, high visibility cover is incorporated in the base of the K-Pack, which secures by press studs to the inside of the back, protecting the bag and contents from the elements.

A ‘flap free’ fastening system is also incorporated in to the K-Pack’s design. This helps eliminate flapping and whipping of excess webbing, yet allows a full range of strap adjustment for a snug and secure fit.

The new K-Pack is available in black. For more information visit www.planet-knox.com.

SUBSCRIPTION FORM Get BACKROADS delivered to your home EVERY MONTH! Just fill out the simple form and mail it along with your check (gotta pay the Postman) to: Backroads, PO Box 317, Branchville, NJ 07826 First Class Postage $40/12 issues • Delivered in a sealed, protective envelope NAME ____________________________________________________________ ADDRESS____________________________________________________________ CITY/STATE/ZIP ________________________________________________________

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AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 46

Getting Clear on Communication These days there are many offerings in the communication field, but we constantly are queried as to what communication system folks should use and what we use ourselves.

With that in mind here is what we at Backroads have been using lately.

These days it seems everybody has Bluetooth built into a helmet and as good as that has gotten, we just feel that it hasn’t hit it out of the park as of yet.

That might change, but if you can live with a few wires then the very best we have found is still the tried and true Autocom System.

We have been using these for about a decade now and have recently upgraded to their new and improved Autocom Super Pro Automatic.

This is not an inexpensive investment- but if you have the cash and the desire this is certainly an option.

Both our BMW machines have limited space to stash these systems so we opted to use RKA’s In-Charge Communication Tank Bags.

These bags have power directly to them and make systems like this very easy indeed.

We have also brought in some other manufacturer’s products to get what we felt we need for our communication and the amount of miles we ride, which is substantial.

Let’s start with the basic – the Autocom Super Pro Automatic. This unit can handle a number of toys including cell phones, GPS, iPod and communication between rider and passenger and, very important to us, bike-to–bike. Although you can communicate using

VOX (Voice Activation) we chose to use the PTT Button (Push To Talk) that way Shira doesn’t hear my snide and sometimes cutting commentary.

The new Autocom headsets and microphones are state of the art – but we went a step further and had custom ear plugs created for us

by Marilyn Naviz from Now Hear This. You know this lady…. she is at all the rallies, the NY Bike Show and Americade too. We have tried them all – she is the best – end of story. $229 well spent.

Not only do these protect our hearing from wind and road noise, but they give us crystal clear voice, GPS instruction and music. Yes, we do get some looks as we lube them with spit and insert them – but that is how to do it.

On the radio end we have been using the same pro-quality Kenwood FS radios for years. No reason to change what ain’t broken.

These can be hard-wired into the bikes so you never have to worry about charging the radio’s batteries; and they have an easy 1.5 mile range, even better in some terrain.

The 2012 Honda Gold Wing® With more creature comforts to enhance the ride, touring just took on a whole new meaning.

Stop in to Mavrix Motorsports for a Demo Ride and see what we mean.

All In-Stock Kawasaki Vulcans On Sale Now 179 North Highland Ave/Rte 9 Ossining, NY 10562

914-762-2722 Join us for BIKE NIGHT Thursday, July 28 • 5-9pm

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www.hudsonvalleymotorcycles.com honda.com ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET EYE PROTECTION AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING. NEVER RIDE UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF DRUGS OR ALCOHOL, AND NEVER USE THE STREET AS A RACETRACK. OBEY THE LAW AND READ THE OWNER’S MANUAL THOROUGHLY. For rider training information or to locate a rider training course near you, call the Motorcycle Safety Foundation at 800-446-9227.

Gold Wing® is a trademark of Honda Motor Co., Ltd. ©2011 American Honda Motor Co., Inc.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 These days we have dropped the need to have our cell phones feed through our communications systems, although this too is easily done.

Even our favorite iPods have been shelved since our Zumos easily handle the rock & roll for us.

Now the one thing you must consider is that you are just one rider. To make sense of it all you need somebody with equal communication toys.

So, if you are a couple or a group of like-minded friends you are all going to make a significant cash outlay.

But, as they say you get what you pay for. Let’s all say cha-ching together!

Page 47 ruNNiNg with thE diAvEl

(Continued from Page 43)

Kodak moment we put the Ducati Diavel into the Church’s yard and captured the moment.

Yes, some sacrament must have been broken, but as Flip Wilson would say….! Okay, I won’t say it.

For a long, low bike with such a devilishly big rear tire – a 240 – the Diavel handled like a charm through the haunts of the Catskills and then back around the high peaks of the Shawangunk on Routes 44 & 55 where we stopped for the view and to watch other riders enjoy this wonderful Sunday afternoon.

Resources: Autocom $495 for unit $99 per headset Plus all the other little things like PTT, and other peripherals autocomdirect.com RKA Luggage In-Charge Tank Bag $325 www.rka-luggage.com Now Here this http://www.plugup.com/ $229 Garmin Zumo 665 with XM Radio (monthly subsription) $799 www.garmin.com

That evening we, and the rest of the nation, got one more bit of good news as the real devil, Osama Bin Laden, was taken out by a Navy SEAL Team.

Thank God for small miracles – the devil had nothing to do with this.

Brian Rathjen

AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

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UPCOM IN G EVENTS CAL ENDAR E V E RY M O N T H - W E AT H E R P E R M I T T I N G Every Sunday • Eastern Suffolk ABATE Breakfast Run. Crossroads Diner - Calverton NY. 10:30am. Eat and Ride After • 631-369-2221 First Sunday of the month • Layton Meet at the Layton Deli, corner of Dingmans/Bevans Rd, CR 560, Layton, NJ. Meet around 8am – breakfast available. Join others for a ride or head out on your own Every Tuesday • The Ear - Spring St, NYC. Come meet some fellow riders and do some benchracing or whatever. 8pm-ish Third Tuesday • 7:30pm ABATE of the Garden State, North Jersey chapter. Black River Barn, 1178 Rt. 10 West, Randolph, NJ. 7:30pm. New members and all mc brands welcome. Help fight for rights as a motorcyclist in NJ! Alex Martinez 973-390-1918 Every Wednesday • Bike Night at the Airport Pub with Free BBQ and Juke Box. CR 639, Sussex, NY • 973-702-1215 Every Wednesday thru Oct. 26: 5-9pm • Bike Night at Rusty Palmer, 105 Rusty’s Blvd, Honesdale, NY • 570-253-4507 • www.RustyPalmer.net First Wednesday • Bergen Harley-Davidson Hump-Day MusicFest. 6-9pm. BBQ and Free Live Music. Bergen Harley-Davidson/BMW Motorcycle, 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenbmwmotorcycles.com Every Thursday • Bike Night at the Chatterbox Drive-In, Rtes. 15/206, Augusta, NJ. Tire kicking, good food and friends • www.chatterboxdrivein.com Every Friday • 6-8pm Bike Night at O’Toole’s Harley-Davidson, 4 Sullivan St, Wurtsboro, NY. Free Hot Dogs • www.otooleshd.com • 845-888-2426 Every Saturday • Stop by the dealership at 9am for coffee and bagels. Ride departs at 10am. Return to the dealership for FREE food and music. Proper attire MUST be worn!

No shorts or sneakers. What are you waiting for, Saddle-Up! • Bergen Harley-Davidson/BMW Motorcycle, 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenbmwmotorcycles.com

JULY 2011 28-31 • United Sidecar Assoc. 33rd National Rally ‘Buckeye Rally’ in Dayton, OH. Headquarters: Dayton Tall Timbers Resort KOA. Info: www.sidecar.com 28-31 • MountainFest, Morgantown, WV • www.mountainfest.com 31 • District II of NJ Corn Boil/Rally. Sigin: 9-11am Williams HD, 1100 US 22, Lebanaon, NJ. Endsite: Bridgewater Eagles, 350 Woodside Ln, Bridgewater, NJ. $15/pp.

AUGUST 2011

What’s Happening 14 • O’Toole’s Harley-Davidson Battle of the Bands O’Toole’s-A-Palooza. For full details and entry information please visit website www.OtoolesHD.com • 4 Sullivan St, Wurtsboro, NY • 845-888-2426. Raindate: Aug. 20 16 • Liberty Harley-Davidson Bike Night with Free Hot Dogs, music and beer available. • 12 W. Milton Ave, Rahway, NJ • 732-381-2400 • www.libertyharley.com 8-12 • Concours Owners Group National Rally. Green Mountains at Mount Snow, VT. Rally fee includes buffet dinner. Discount for COG members. For more information please visit www.cog-online.org • 978-394-2591 27 • Bergen County Harley-Davidson Brain Injury Research Poker Run. Sign in 9:30-11am at BCHD. Great ride for a wonderful cause. 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • www.bergenbmwmotorcycles.com • 201-843-6930 27 • Pigs N Poker Run to benefit Shriners Hospital for Children. Sign in 10-11:30am at Riverton Hotel and Restaurant, 7758 Martins Creek/Belvidere Hwy, Bangor, PA. Ride: Noon to 2pm with picnic to follow. $25/pp ride/picnic; $10/just picnic; $10 Quoit Tournament @ 4pm • More info email: lineridersmc@hotmail.com 30 • Deptford Honda Yamaha Open House. 9a-4p. 1300 Clements Bridge Rd, Deptford, NJ • 856-848-8500 • www.dhy.com

SEPTEMBER 2011 3-5 • Finger Lakes BMW Rally• Watkins Glen State Park. Camping, food, fun. Country Rode Motowerks sponsors track ride at International Racetrack Sat., Sept.3 @ noon • www.countryrode.com • 866-323-6530 2-5 • Vermont Rolling Rally. For details visit www.rollingthruamerica.com 2-4 • Baltimore Grand Prix with Bob’s BMW as motorcycle sponsor. Get special motorcycle only access and trackside parking. Visit www.bobsbmw.com 4 • Dawn Patrol MC Labor Day Run. Signin: 9-Noon Bradley Gardens Firehouse, 24 Old York Rd, Bridgewater, NJ. $15/pp.

11 • Larz Anderson www.larzanderson.org

Museum

European

MC

Day,

Brookline,

MA

•

22-25 • Concours Owners Group Northeast Fall Rally, Lake George, NY. Come join other Concours riders and sport-touring enthusiasts for a romp in the Adirondacks. Rally fee includes Saturday dinner. Discount for COG members. For complete details visit the northeast event calendar at www.cog-online.org or contact Scott at 518-223-0544 26-Oct. 2 • Backroads Fall Fiesta Rally. Join us for our week-long rally through MA, NH, VT and NY. See the ad on page 64 or www.backroadsusa.com for full details.

OCTOBER 2011

7 • Ride for Kids Hudson Valley • Sign in 8-9:45am; Ride leaves 10am. Central Valley Elementary School, 45 Rte. 32, Central Valley, NY. For details please visit www.rideforkids.org • 800-253-6530 13 • Bergen County BMW Motorcycles Demo Days. Your chance to ride the bike you’ve always wanted. Insurance available on site. 10am-4pm • 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • www.bergenbmwmotorcycles.com • 201-843-6930

16 • Blue Knights IX NJ Make-A-Wish Run. For details visit their website: www.bknjix.org

MAY 2012 17-20 • Backroads Spring Break XIV. We’ll be in Luray, Virginia for three days of fun, riding and hanging out. For more details see page 64. www.backroadsusa.com

13 • Harley-Davidson Long Branch Open House featuring 2012 models, demo rides, free lunch, Patch Lady, live music by Gunsmoke, sidewalk sale and specials - 9a-4p. 671 Broadway, Long Branch, NJ • 732-229-8518 • www.hdlongbranch.com

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WE DON’T HAVE ESP! JUST GO TO OUR WEBSITE AND PRINT THE FORM www.backroadsusa.com/events.html AND SEND IT IN TO BACKROADS, POB 317, BRANCHVILLE, NJ 07826 • FAX 973-948-0823

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011

Page 49

1 An n 8 h ual!

Sunday - September 11 - 2011 10 AM to 4 PM Larz Anderson Park • Brookline, Massachusetts

Sponsored by the Larz Anderson Auto Museum All Proceeds to Benefit the Larz Anderson Auto Museum

Bring and Show your German, Italian, British Motorcycles Classics to Moderns BIKE SHOW • AWARDS • SWAP MEET • FOOD

Larz Anderson Auto Museum 15 Newton Street Brookline, MA 02445 617-522-6547 contact: Sheldon Steele steele@larzanderson.org 617-522-6547

larzanderson.org

AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 50

PRODUCT REVIEW

CATOMA OUTDOORS 2 UP 2 MOTORCYCLE TENT

Tyler Yandow Some of you may have seen the Catoma display at last summer’s BMW RA rally in Pownal, VT. This tent was designed specifically for the motorcycling community although the company also makes tents for backpacking, tactical operations, and firefighters. Catoma also offers the “Lone Rider” which is a smaller tent intended for a single traveler as well as larger, motorcycle specific models.

I opted for the 2-man tent (MSRP $287) for a couple of reasons. First, I like to have the option of donning all my riding gear in the tent in the event it is raining cats and dogs. Having the extra space also allows me to pack up all my gear, except the tent, in waterproof bags before loading them on the bike. If you have ever tried breaking camp in the rain you can appreciate this small luxury.

In early June I had the opportunity to try out my recent purchase on a two night camping trip with the BMW Motorcycle Owners of Vermont, staying in a different location each night.

As an architect I look for products that are well designed. One of the innovative features of this tent is that the poles stay attached to the tent when stored. This makes set up and break down at most a five minute exercise. Each of the two sets of poles has two hinges which allow the entire tent to fold up like an umbrella.

You don’t even have to fold it. Just collapse the poles and stuff the whole thing in the bag which comes with it. When setting up, only the waterproof fly and its support pole need to be fastened to the tent if bad weather is expected. If the weather is warm and no precipitation is expected, the fly is not needed. Catoma also offers a model specific ground sheet which can be clipped to the tent and stored without being removed. This is another time

saver. The sheet is made of a durable fabric similar to the main body of the tent. The tent’s floor extends up the sides about 8” providing a seamless, waterproof barrier to the elements.

With the exception of the vents, the remainder of the tent is also waterproof and carries a lifetime warrantee. Two sides of the tent’s interior are lined with mesh pockets for organizing and storing smaller items. In addition, the tent comes with a mesh gear loft which clips to the ceiling. I found there were more pockets than I needed during my recent maiden voyage with it. Being able to stay organized I found to be a real asset which the tent made easy. Another feature I found useful is the double door design.

The tent has a full sized screen door at each end. In addition to the roof vent this provides extraordinary ventilation, preventing condensation from building up inside during the night. Unlike many tents, the doors do not have a solid panel of the same size and shape as the screen. Each door has a vestibule which contains a zippered center section to allow access and prevent rain from entering when closed. Because the vestibules leave about two inches of space between them and the ground, air

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 is allowed to circulate even when they are completely closed. At first I wasn’t sure this was a good idea for cool nights but I did not find it to be a problem.

In fact I appreciated the feeling of not sleeping in a “plastic bag.” I was protected from the weather but never had that stuffy feeling of my old tent. The vestibules also allow you to keep your boots outside while at the same time being protected from precipitation.

Unlike my older hexagonal shaped tent, the rectangular shape provides extremely efficient use of space. Although roughly the same size as my older shelter, this tent feels bigger because there are no odd shaped corners. Even with my Byer Tri-Lite folding cot, Thermarest, sleeping bag, and all my gear, there was plenty of room to spare. The tent could easily accommodate two people and most of their gear. For one person you feel like you have the hotel to yourself. I even had room to set up my Kermit chair.

The only downside I could find is that when packed, the tent is still rela-

Page 51 tively long, about 30”. Depending on the width of your panniers this may or may not be an issue. The storage bag supplied with the tent is not waterproof although I was told by a Catoma representative that it would keep the tent relatively dry in all but the most extreme rain. We’ll see. The bag is a side opening design with a roll flap closure similar to Ortlieb Dry Duffle Bags.

Because the bag is made of light weight material stuffing the tent into the bag is not as easy as it could be. Nevertheless I didn’t feel this presented a serious problem.

Although I’ve only used it once, I’m convinced I’ll probably never take my old tent on another motorcycle trip. This product takes setting up and breaking camp to a new level of convenience and really does feel like home.

Details: Sleeps 2; weight-12.5lbs; packed dimesions- 29.5” x 6” x 6”; center height-56”; floor area- 77” x 84”. For more information please visit www.catomaoutdoor.com.

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

ARAI ‘REDEFINES’ OPEN-FACE HELMET DESIGN AND FUNCTION WITH NEW 2011 XC SERIES The brand new Arai XC series “redefines how open-face helmets are supposed to look— and protect,” according to the company.

The most telling feature is the extended coverage of the lower jawcheekpad area that offers more facial coverage without sacrificing the traditional open feel of the helmets. With the XC, the lower jaw now extends 1 3/16 inches forward compared to previous—and traditional— open-face three-quarter shape helmets. The look itself is intriguing. Someone at Arai has compared the look to that of “an ancient Greek warrior’s helmets with the jaw extensions. Definitely cool. But like everything we do, primarily, our objective is to build a better helmet for riders.”

Indeed, Arai says the XC is continuing proof of its longstanding emphasis on “rider protection above all,” and its tradition of improving on what works instead of simply changing for the sake of change or “short-lived marketing headlines.”

There are two models in the new XC series: standard XC and XC-RAM.

The RAM’s upper-vent system is borrowed directly from the top-of-the-line race helmet, the Corsair-V. The advantage is improved airflow and helmet stability. It also has a fully-removable Arai Dry-Cool® liner.

The standard XC model’s ventilation utilizes Arai’s TDF-3 and DDL4 intake and exhaust vents taken directly from the Arai’s “ultimate street helmet,” the RX-Q. Side cowl exhausts complete the XC’s advanced ventilation package.

A vented neck roll on both models takes advantage of existing airflow from around the rider’s neck to further enhance helmet ventilation by extracting more heat build-up from the interior.

Like all Arai helmets, the XC series is handmade in Arai’s storied environment of skilled artisans rather than the alternative of mass production. They are available in sizes are XS through 3XL in four solid colors: Diamond White, Aluminum Silver, Black Frost, and Diamond Black. Suggested retail price for the XC is $499.95, and $559.95 for the XC-RAM. Complete information and the location of your nearest Arai retailer can be found at www.AraiAmericas.com.

For over 25 years Circle Cycle has helped riders get and stay on the road Our variety of powersports products is second to none. Whether you’re riding offroad, backroads, or on the track, we’re here to get you where you need to go.

In northern New Jersey there isn’t a friendlier or more knowledgeable staff than ours. We’re happy to help you find the parts you’ve been looking for.

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AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 52

BACKROADS’ MOTO-INN MEMBERS Worth the ride from anywhere!

EAT AND STAY WHERE YOU’RE WELCOME

Sharing your passion for good food since 1983 Member of

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Located in Arden, only 15 minutes from Philippi, on the beautiful Tygart River in West Virginia, our bed & breakfast is the perfect place to call home while exploring the Mountain state.

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011

Page 53

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE

ALL THAT GOOD STUFF

Come Ride the Dragon Deals Gap Store • Motel Bar and Grill

Deals Gap 318 Curves in 11 Miles

www.dealsgap.com 800.889.5550 17548 Tapoco Road • Robbinsville, North Carolina 28771

WASHINGTON CYCLE WORKS We cater to road racers and support all Track Day organizations Check us for Suspension Setups • One-piece Road Race suits in stock

WCW

www.washingtoncycleworks.com

Washington Cycle Works

Junction of Rtes. 57/31 • Washington, NJ 07882

908-835-0043 Closed Sun-Mon • Open: Tues-Thurs 9:30AM-7PM • Fri 9:30AM-6PM • Sat 9AM-3PM

Brands you Know and Trust From Long Island’s Premiere Motorcycle Outfitters…

15 East Deer Park Rd, Dix Hills, NY

631-262-0600 • www.ReadyRiders.com

If you didn’t like cool stuff, you wouldn’t be reading this magazine.

Here’s something you’re going to love.

TORQ-IT Screwdriver/Speed Wrench/ Palm Ratchet All In One Tool Variable Speeds Over 600RPM Low Profile, with an “Ergo” Grip and a Non-Slip Design Accepts All 3/8” and 1/4” Sockets and Extensions

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AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 54

BACKROADS’ MOTO-INN MEMBERS

EAT AND STAY WHERE YOU’RE WELCOM

The Boat House Restaurant

The Runway Cafe

FEEL THE WARMTH The Only Outdoor Lakeside Dining on Swartswood Lake

36 Lambert Road • Blairstown, NJ

at the Blairstown Airport

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Excellent Ride Destination

Serving Lunch, Dinner and Sunday Brunch Tuesday ~ Sunday 11am-9pm Brunch 10am-2pm • Closed Mondays 1040 Cty Rd 521 • Swartswood, NJ 973-300-0016

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GREAT Food Roads Destination

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Ask about our Diners Club.

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THE CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN GREAT FOOD • GOOD TIMES • EXCELLENT RIDING Located at Ross’ Corners • 1 Route 15 • Augusta NJ • 973-300-2300

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Travel along the scenic backroads of the Delaware river.

Meet the Markopoulos family and taste chef George’s Greek American cooking.

Best bar menu, lunch or dinner.

Fresh poppers, perogies, calamari, clams and crispy wings with 8 different sauces.

Tues. thru Sat. 11am-10pm Sunday: Breakfast 9am-Noon Lunch and Dinner served until 9pm

John, Christina, chef George and Eoanna welcome you and your friends.

The Riverton Hotel and Restaurant

Member of

At Belvidere-Riverton Free Bridge, Riverton, PA

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Red Wolfe Inn Palatible Copius Victuals (Good Eatin’ Food) The secret of Western New Jersey and a Culinary Delight

SERVING BREAKFAST & LUNCH TUESDAY-SUNDAY 7AM~3PM Daily specialty items including burgers, homemade soup & pastries

Open Tuesday - Friday @ 5pm Saturday and Sunday@ 4pm Dine indoors or alfresco Have a beautiful ride followed by a great meal

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011

Page 55

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE

ALL THAT GOOD STUFF

Sussex Hills Ltd.

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Since 1976 Our Reputation Speaks for Itself

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HELMET-HOLDER.COM Treat Your Helmet Like a Work of Art

Whippany, NJ • 973-781-9090 569 Route 10 East • (1-1/4 miles east of I-287) M/F: 8-7 • Sat: 9-5 • Sun: 12-4

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AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

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Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

Riding with the Tribe Basic Group Riding on the Backroads 101 This is a subject that has been touched on by many people and in many riding publications, but we thought we’d look at it, not from the large parade or large groups on the highway point of view, but of those riding groups that enjoy the less traveled county and farm roads; the slightly more aggressive riding groups. Some of these you might agree with, maybe some you won’t.

But, they are all worth thinking about regardless of your style of riding.

* Most groups tend to ride together often and so know some of the basic rules, the type of riding they’ll be doing, and the skill levels of their group.

But, if you have some new riders joining your posse then it would do you well to explain the basic rules of the ride to the newcomers. * Always arrive at the ride’s starting place with a full tank of gas. * Keep group rides small. Any more than 7 or 8 and it can easily get out of hand. If you have a larger group break them into smaller squads. * Riding is not racing. Save that for the track. * If the lead rider makes a turn he should wait till the rider behind him is in sight and sees the turn. That rider, in turn, should wait for the rider behind him or her and so on. You need to keep an easy eye on the rider behind you. * If you have a designated leader you should have a designated “Sweep.”

This Sweep Rider will always be in the back and if you have them in your mirror then you know your group is together. * If you get separated in a town by a stoplight or traffic, in most cases, simply continue ahead. If a turn is made the last rider should be waiting there.

If needed, and can be done safely, pull to the side of the road to gather the group. * Along the backroads it might be fun to enjoy a brisk pace, but once you are entering a town or congested area slow down. It is not only prudent, but the polite thing to do. We are all ambassadors of our sport. * When in town or traffic consider yourself invisible. To some car drivers you might as well be. * If you have a novice or tentative rider it’s okay to let one rider lead them along at a more sedate pace, separate from the main group. You never want to get a rider in over their heads. It never ends well. * This thought might fly in the face of conventional group riding mentality, but we find this to be sensible and beneficial to those riding in a group – especially a spirited group. Throw away the staggered formation mantra!

Although it looks good in parade or on the big highways, on twisty and hilly county roads there is only one line – THE RIGHT LINE! * Keep your distance. Space cushioning is a must, especially when you do not know what is around the turn or beyond that rise. *If you spot debris on the road point it out with your foot. This allows the riders behind you to know there is something on the road ahead.

* Communication is a great thing – most hand signals are universal, but you would want to let new riders know what they are. Radio and Bluetooth communication is a wonderful thing and being able to converse with fellow riders adds to the fun and safety.

* Don’t just peel away from your group. If you can’t finish the entire ride tell your fellow riders that you plan on heading off along the way. * It’s okay to back off. If you are in a group and you don’t feel comfortable, for whatever reason, signal to the side and let somebody in the group know how you feel. It’s okay to get to the end of the pack; the rider ahead of you will wait at the next turn for you. Offer to be the Sweep Rider. Everybody wants everybody to have a good and safe time and finish the day. * Know your limits. If you are a new rider don’t try to go out riding with motorcyclists that have been doing this for years. Better to find somebody to ride with as you put on more miles and get more experienced.

* Mentoring. If you know of a rider who is just starting out mentoring is a great thing to do. It allows the beginner to learn from your experience and you will probably make a friend for life.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011

Page 57

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE

ALL THAT GOOD STUFF

Maplewood Lodging B&B

In the heart of the Berkshires, in Western Massachusetts, surrounded by some of the best riding in New England.

• Secure Motorcycle Parking • Comfortable Rooms • Full Country Breakfast at your time schedule • Reasonable Rates • Owned by Riders • Stay two nights and the third night is on us

www.maplewoodlodging.com

266 North Main St, Otis, MA

413-269-7351

TREBOURMOTORCYCLES • Serving motorcycle enthusiasts and representing our brands with pride for over 12 years • Recognized for service excellence including Suzuki’s highest honor The Cutting Edge Award - Servicing all makes and models • We offer Pick up and Delivery service for the entire New York Metro area • Conveniently located just off I-80 at Exit 28 1445 ROUTE 46 LEDGEWOOD NJ 07852 • 973-584-0810 • TREBOURMOTORCYCLES.COM

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Bicycle/Golf Clubs to Motorcycle Carrier Systems This unique and adaptable system is the most versatile motorcycle accessory on the market today. Handmade in the USA, it enables motorcycle riders to rack their bicycles securely and travel.

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AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 58

thE icE crEAm mAN 417 stAtE routE 29, grEENwich, Ny 12834 518-692-8382 • www.thE-icE-crEAm-mAN.com Some time ago, while watching Bobby Flay’s Throwdown! series on the Food Network, my interest was piqued. Seems this particular challenge had to do with ice cream, sundaes specifically. Next to riding, there’s almost nothing better in this world. The Throwdown! challenger was Julia Reynolds of the Ice Cream Man in Greenwich, NY. Greenwich, NY is a nice little hop while up in Lake George, so while at Americade this year I made it a point to get to this gem in the ice cream world.

The Ice Cream Man has been around since the early 1980’s, originally owned by Keith and Charlene Mann, thus the name. The original 16x20 log cabin was expanded in 1995 to include inside seating and a screened porch, as well as expanding the ‘dipping’ area. In 2001, Julia took the reins and has been making her delicious ice cream, both soft and hard, ever since.

So what can you expect when visiting the Ice Cream Man? First off, you’ll arrive at a nice country building with a big gravel parking lot. There are a couple of walk-up windows and some tables outside to enjoy your creamy treat. The homemade flavors, of which there are over 300, change regularly and you will find 30 of them listed on their daily flavor board.

Julia uses Danish Cream as the base for her delights and, for you folks who bother yourselves with butterfat content and carbohydrates (why do you even eat ice cream then?) the hard ice cream is 14% butterfat and 18 grams/half cup of carbs while the soft ice cream is 10% and 23 respectively.

Those seeking out the soft ice cream should only make the trip during the summer, though.

As for the actual flavors, I’m certainly not listing all 300 but you’ll get the idea of their creativity from these: Orange Pineapple, Chocolate Sambucca, Coffee Brownie, Maple Walnut and Caramel Apple. Of course you

Shira’s Summertime Ice Cream Ride

can always get the standards of Vanilla, Chocolate and Danish Cream – pure sweet cream with no extracts. One of their best sellers is Almond Joy, another standard and I can attest to it being absolutely delicious.

If you find yourself arriving with an appetite for more than just ice cream, the Ice Cream Man will satisfy that as well. They offer a variety of sandwiches, also all freshly made on home baked breads using fresh vegetables and meats, as well as home made soups. You can indulge such things as the Battenkill Bovine Mooey Gooey which is warm roast beef on toasted pumpernickel with cheddar cheese and Russian dressing or, for those saving themselves for dessert, the Farmer’s Delight made up of lettuce, tomato, onion, cucumber and bean sprouts with Italian dressing on rye bread. All sandwiches are served with a side of chips, macaroni, potato or pasta salad.

If you happen to be celebrating a special event, such as Tuesday, you might want to do that with one of their specialty ice cream cakes. These are three-inch, two-layers high and ALL ICE CREAM – no cake filler. You can make

Specializing in Ducati, BMW, MV Agusta, Triumph and Aprilia

Stumpy’s YAMAHA

Your Toy Store at the Shore

YAMA-HOTLINE • 732-776-5514 1207 Route 35 South • Neptune, NJ • www.stumpys.com

Service • Repairs • Suspension upgrades and engine performance Give us a call or stop on by 41 Ballard Rd • Middletown, NY www.europeancycleservices.com 845-725-7707

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011

Page 59 up your own or choose from their traditional favorites such as vanilla and chocolate with rich fudge sauce and chocolate crumble or perhaps the Nutty Delight featuring Creamy Cashew (vanilla ice cream dotted with roasted cashew halves) and Peanut Butter in My Chocolate with fudge sauce and chocolate crumbles and topped with a gourmet nut blend. Get the Epi pen ready folks!

You can enjoy the Ice Cream Man during the summer months, May thru Sep-

tember, everyday from 11am to 9:30pm and Fall hours thru mid-October are TuesSun. 11am to 8:30pm. Please call 518-692-8382 to confirm, as their website was not up-to-date.

Since this great creamy culinary delight is in such wonderful riding territory, we’ll give you a velvety ride on some delectable roads starting from Lake George.

You might not want to wait until next Americade to get your fill of Ice Cream Man lusciousness. Enjoy the ride and have a scoop for me. you can find a route from lake george to the ice cream man: http://www.sendspace.com/file/qige2n and a return route: http://www.sendspace.com/file/o7q1iv

2 0 10 Inn of D #1 in NY b istinction y NYSH &TA

Festival Season is Here at Hunter Mountain ** Thrill to the Longest Canopy Zipline Tour **

The perfect home base when riding the Catskills Enjoy the day’s ride and return to the comforts of the Fairlawn Inn Walk to Restaurants • Delicious Homemade Breakfast 7872 Main St. / Rte. 23A, Hunter, NY

• 518-263-5025 • www.fairlawninn.com

AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

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ROAD TRIP

tWO-and-a-tHiRd SixeS On tHe tOuR de tug

Nothing provides quite the jolt to the senses or ruins one’s mood like riding smack-dab through the middle of a mountaintop removal coal mine. After 90 miles of glorious Southwest Virginia backroads, I suspected I had taken a wrong turn at the previous intersection of two roads that were unmarked in all directions, and now I knew I did. It was unseasonably hot and the shade provided by deep woods only moments earlier was gone, replaced by the dust, filth, and destruction of the open earth mine.

cylinder CBX motorcycles to the deepest heart of Appalachia. Mike and Swifty live in the sauna that is the Washington, DC metropolitan area. They would trailer to my house in Southwest Virginia and from there, we’d ride our antique bikes to the Tug Fork of the Big Sandy River town of Matewan, of the Hatfields and McCoys and one of the pivotal battles of the modern labor movement. Thus, Three Sixes on the Tour de Tug. Trying to skirt as many traffic-lights as possible, I led our multi-cylinder expedition around Bluefield to our first stop at Pocahontas. This town, a for-

My riding mates, Michael Cecchini and John Swift and I pulled up alongside a parked coal truck and asked the driver for directions, which he graciously offered. We retraced our path, re-entered the cooler forest, and eventually found our way into Abbs Valley and the towns of Boissevain (rhymes with “hose-main”) and Pocahontas. These were our intermediate destinations on our way to historic Matewan, scrunched along the West Virginia/Kentucky border.

But I’m getting ahead of myself.

The plan was for these two friends and me to ride our classic Honda 6-

merly bustling coal community with residents imported from all over the world in its heyday, is now a crumbling, dilapidated wreck. The roof of the former company store collapsed a few years ago and much of the downtown area is in an advanced state of decrepitude, as if the neutron bomb hit and nobody was left to take care of anything. There was a modern, single-story brick bank branch with a drive-through window across from the wreckage, conveniently equipped with a shaded park bench from where loiterers could watch plaster fall. Another building nearby displayed an ornate, multi-faceted façade, but with a collapsed building behind it.

Michael Abraham

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011

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Even those with an unnatural interest for the macabre soon tire of Pocahontas’ cheerless karma. So we motored east into West Virginia into Bramwell.

But, you might ask, the title of this tale is Two-and-a-third sixes. What happened? Well, inexplicably, Mike, who owns a stable of exotic, mostly

Thus began our unplanned excursion into the Deliverance-like backwoods of McDowell County. “Mak’-dal,” as the residents call it, is the last sip of coffee in the cup that mimics the state of West Virginia. In spite of yielding from its ruggedly steep mountains more coal than any county in the Eastern USA, it is by far the poorest in the nation’s third poorest state.

Italian motorcycles fit for a king, was unable to get either of his two CBXs ready for the journey. So he rode my 1989 Honda Pacific Coast instead, spoiling my theme. With its V-twin engine lurking deep within shrouds of white plastic, we were now at 2-1/3 sixes. Whatever.

In Bramwell, we drove slowly on the brick streets, where at one time 40 custom-designed mansions housed coal mine owners. One house that recently sold for $375,000 would have brought easily $2-million where Mike and Swifty live.

Not five miles later on US-52, the two-lane arterial of the southern West Virginia coalfields, we became stuck in an interminable traffic jam. We ducked into a nearby blissfully cool convenience store in the coal camp of Maybeury where an androgynous, overweight cashier said a truck had jackknifed on the road ahead, “Traffic has sat there for over an hour already. Take this little road beside the store and generally take every right turn you come to. In 15 miles, you’ll be on the other side of the wreck.”

It was an impossibly tight road, with some hairpin turns sharp enough to read our own license plates. My CBX is the late model, made in only two model years, 1981 and 1982. It is a long, graceful beast with a satisfying growl in the higher rev ranges. It is a surprisingly agile cornering machine on all but the slowest turns. Mike on the porcine Pacific Coast was often right on my heels. Mike said the PC was like a Disney character dancing hippopotamus, bulbous but agile on its feet.

Swifty’s and my CBXs were different animals, more feline. Swifty’s early model, sans saddlebags and fairing, was tiger-like, with a lean snarl from its six mufflers and a bad attitude. It was like the original Honda CB-750 on steroids, with an engine too wide to be contained by mere naked bike garb.

With my 1981 version, Honda had de-tuned the engine and fixed everything wrong on the original: better brakes, heavier forks, and a stouter swing-arm with a mono-shock. Then they fitted it with a functional color-coordinated

The Metropolitan Area’s European Riding Center Headquarters for Moto Guzzi Triumph Vespa

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Visit our Ebay store for our clearance and closeout items.

Page 62 fairing and saddle-bags. It was the lion, the king of the jungle personified.

Hear me roar!

In spite of the panache and sexiness of the CBXs, they were sales floor anchors and were soon relegated to the dust-bin of moto-history. Yet they engendered awe and envy wherever we parked them.

After what seemed like a lifetime, we finally emerged downstream of the wreck and resumed our way towards Welch, the county seat of Mak-dal. I sat in the shade while Mike and Swifty took photos of the yellow-stone Romanesque Revival style courthouse with bullet holes in the walls and stone stairway where beloved Matewan Police Chief

“Smiling” Sid Hatfield died in a hail of gunfire in on August 1, 1921. More on him momentarily. I took note of the significant foliage growing from the eaves and gutters of nearby buildings and pondered the fecundity of Makdal.

Westward again, we passed through Iaeger, whose decrepitude matches Pocahontas’, and then over Indian Ridge into Wyoming County. The 600 feet or so of elevation gain took a smidgen of an edge off the excruciating heat of the day, but it quickly returned on the other side.

In the vicinity of Hanover we saw remnants of a flooded creek paralleling the road. Wherever there was sufficient flat space, there were houses lining

AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS the highway, often across the creek. Each invariably had piles of muddy debris stacked against the side of the road. Each bridge was privately owned, with substantial damage to most. Some had missing spans, others had eroded abutments. A musty, humid air mingled with the sweet redolence of roadside wildflowers. In Gilbert we saw scores of dirt-bikes and ATVs, vacationers in town to ride the Hatfield and McCoy off-road trail.

Given the advanced hour of the day, we re-set our sights on Williamson

rather than Matewan, reckoning that Williamson, a larger community, might be more likely to have accommodations.

Cresting a rise 20 miles from our destination, we spotted storm clouds brewing.

With trees swaying and leaves falling all around, cooler air blissfully arrived.

We rode several miles in a driving rainstorm. In Williamson, we found a hotel that was entirely on stilts to keep it above floodwaters. We parked the motorcycles by the elevator underneath, covered out of the rain. Views of the nearby Tug Fork were blocked by a substantial flood-control earthen embankment.

The next morning had all the promise of being equally miserably hot as yesterday, so we got an early start southbound towards Matewan. Matewan is the Jericho of West Virginia, surrounded on one side by a significant concrete wall built for flood control and on the other side by the hillside. Huge

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 movable steel doors rested open alongside the three roads and two railroads that penetrated the wall into the town. We wandered the two blocks of downtown. A bank clerk escorted us to the back of one of the downtown buildings where metal plugs had been shoved into bullet holes in a brick wall. We pushed a yellow button on the wall and hidden speakers informed us about the horrific Battle of Matewan in May, 1920. It told us that thugs hired by the mine owners arrived in town to evict recalcitrant union-joining miners. Eleven people were killed in the melee. The police chief, “Smiling” Sid Hatfield survived, only to be gunned down brutally – 17 bullets were found in his body – at the courthouse in Welch fifteen months later. Nobody was ever convicted of his killing. It was a turning point in national labor relations from which ramifications still reverberate.

Five guys covered in sweat and sawdust were refurbishing the roof lines and gutters on an old Main Street home. One of them said, “Matewan is one of the most flood prone towns in the country. We found mud in the first floor gutter that was left here from the flood of ‘77.” That flood destroyed every car, most of the commercial buildings, and a third of the private homes. It took several more devastating floods before the Army Corps of Engineers built the wall around the town in 1997.

Mike and I walked halfway over the bridge spanning the tempestuous Tug. It was difficult to fathom that this placid stream, perhaps 70 feet wide and 3 feet deep could wreak so much destruction on this and other neighboring communities.

We entered a small lodge where the owner, wearing a huge red chef’s hat

Page 63 told us about the history of Matewan and the nation’s most iconic feud, between the Hatfield family of West Virginia and the McCoy family of Kentucky, a century-old story that still resonates with discord and conflict. He said, “This town has recently applied for status as a National Historic Park.

With the incredible history we have here and with the Hatfield and McCoy off-road trail, tourists are beginning to arrive in larger numbers.”

Leaving Matewan, we turned southbound and crossed the Tug into Kentucky where we found SR194. This nearly deserted, twisting mountain road through a deep forest was easily the equal of many of the more famous motorcycling roads of the Southeast. We put our geriatric bikes through their paces, wondering how anyone could find newer bikes more satisfying. We rode into Virginia through Breaks Interstate Park and into the town of Haysi, where we called on an old friend named Jane. “There is a lot to like here,” she told us wistfully, “but there is painfully little money to be made.”

After riding fun and scenic SR-80 south to Saltville, another historic town, I decided that Mike and Swifty were probably tired of riding behind me. On beautiful and twisty SR-42, they ran ahead, only to be scolded by a state trooper for passing on a double-yellow. Kids!

Where we visited isn’t Dollywood. Nevertheless, it belongs on more tourists’ destination lists. Mike said, “The area is pretty depressing, so it’s kinda hard to be cheerful about it. But what I feel in my heart about the friendly, resilient people and their strong families and communities makes me feel good about the ride and the region.” It’s a great place to take your motorcycle, whether antique or not.

HudSOn Valley

Ride For Kids®

SUNDAY, AUGUST 7 Rain or Shine!

Location: Central Valley Elementary School, 45 Rte. 32, Central Valley, NY (Exit 16 off I-87) Sign In: 8-9:45am Info: 800-253-6530 • www.rideforkids.org

AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

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Join us for our fourteenth Spring Break as we head south to Luray, Virginia. We’ll stay at the historic Mimslyn Inn which has 80 years in hospitality and home to some of the best riding in the area.

ROOMS ARE VERY LIMITED (we mean it this time) so reserve now.

Historic rooms are $99/night • Larger suites are $199/night Please call 540-743-5105 and ask for the Backroads Group for special discount.

ALL ROADS LEAD TO BACKROADS SPRING BREAK XIV

MAY 17 - 20, 2012 MIMSLYN INN, LURAY, VIRGINA CALL TODAY: MIMSLYN INN, LURAY, VIRGINIA • 540-743-5105 • www.MimslynInn.com

2011 Fall Fiesta Mon., Sept. 26 thru Sun., Oct. 2 A Full Week of Riding Fun Join us for all or part, but do join us.

It’s shaping up to be one of our best Rallies yet.

Monday, Sept. 26

Tues-Wed, Sept. 27-28

The Publick House

Ocean Point Inn

Thurs, Sept. 29

Fri-Sun, Sept. 30-Oct. 2

The Gray Ghost Inn Colors in the Catskills

Sturbridge, MA

East Boothbay, ME

West Dover, VT

The Hunter Inn

508-347-3313 • Rooms: 89/night

Rooms: starting at $89/night 800-552-5554

Single $59 • Double $98/night 800-745-3615

Rooms: starting at $110/night

$

Ask for Backroads when booking

Mention Backroads for a 10% discount

We’ll spend our first night at the Publick House’s Country Motor Lodge nestled in an apple orchard near the main inn. Enjoy a great ride into New England on the way to our more northern stop…

Perched at the tip of a scenic, rockbound peninsula in East Boothbay, we’ll spend two days exploring It’s back to our old friends the ‘Fingers’ of Carina and Magnus and their Maine’s coast never-ending hospitality. It may with its historic only be one evening, but we’ll enjoy lighthouses, quaint villages and a great meal, roasting marshmallows around the campfire and tall tales all the lobsta rolls you can eat. on the front porch.

What would a Backroads’ Rally We could end it here, but we’ll head be without a stop at… south to Hunter Mountain and…

800-270-3992 Mention Backroads for discount

This will be the 4th year that Colors in the Catskills will be held at Hunter Mountain, in conjunction with Octoberfest. Hunter Inn is within walking distance, so we’ll enjoy a great day’s ride then park the bikes and join the festivities.