Savoury crafts
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FROM russia WITH TASTE
ANATOLY KOMM IS THE FIRST RUTHENIAN CHEF TO EARN GOURMET CREDIBILITY. REDEEMING HIS COUNTRY’S CUISINE IN THE LAVISH SETTING OF HIS MOSCOW RESTAURANT
by Alessandra Meldolesi photos by Bob Noto
THE UNIQUE TALENT OF A CUNNING SELF-TAUGHT CHEF Above, potato sphere with dill cream and salmon eggs. Opposite page, Nadia and Anatoly Komm. The chef chose the name Varvary for his restaurant (Russian for “barbarian”), ironically referring to the reputation of Russia’s cuisine in the rest of the world.
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20/11/14 11:26