Where® Thailand November 2014 by Where Thailand

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Style and Substance in Phloen Chit Top Tours for the Inside Track

GO WITH THE FLOW

The best riverside spots to eat and drink

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The 2014 edition of our luxury hardcover publication captures and explores the finer side of Thailand through compelling stories and stunning photography. is available for purchase at THB600.

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CONTENTS where

l THAILAND l NOVEMBER 2014

The Guide BANGKOK

23 SHOPS+SERVICES

Shop for niche designer brands at these multi-label stores, or rummage for industrial knickknacks at a new vintage finds meets brunch spot.

24 DINING The best all-you-can-eat Sunday brunch deals in town and some beautiful spots for Thai fine dining.

RIVERSIDE FAVORITES The best venues for eating and drinking by the river, including tips from Bangkok’s five-star hotel concierges on where they like to take their guests.

26 NIGHTLIFE Our favorite places for smooth jazz sounds, where to party until the early hours, and the hottest rooftop bars.

GUIDES

30 HEALTH+WELLNESS Relax your muscles at these five beautiful spas that offer traditional Thai herbal compress massages.

12 TOURS WITH A DIFFERENCE The most original ways to explore Bangkok, from spending time with a coastal fishing community to cycling the rickety waterside paths where the city began.

31 PROPERTY

AROUND THAILAND

Dream beachside condos for those who never want to leave.

Pristine beaches, distinctive limestone cliffs, plus a burgeoning eating and drinking scene.

32 ARTS+ATTRACTIONS

14 KRABI

Where to view contemporary Thai artwork plus a gallery run by the country’s leading fine art photographer.

16 NEWS Openings in Phuket and Cha-Am, plus our favorite bars in Chiang Mai.

33 NAVIGATE

EXPLORING

Essential tips on getting around.

19 SUKHUMVIT SOIS 31 TO 49

Food and drink from every corner of the globe, stylish spas and some of the city’s most sophisticated galleries make this an area not to be missed.

ALSO INSIDE

21 PHLOEN CHIT

A guide to Bangkok’s slickest neighborhood, home to luxury boutiques, local designer brands, fine-dining restaurants and some serious cocktail bars.

34 21 THINGS WE LOVE

Managing Editor/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Sales Manager Sherry Maturose Kato

Editor Wachiraporn Janrut

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

General Manager Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Senior Designer Panita Thiraphapon

Marketing Manager Thasanee Sethi Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant On the Cover Sala Rattanakosin (see page 6) by Nut Onaree

Contributor Kanin Srimaneekulroj

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com

MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

HOT DATES

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MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

@where_thailand

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HOT DATES

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NOV 7-DEC 5

STRIKE A POSE

Khon is only performed once a year on such an epic scale. Sponsored by HM Queen Sirikit, the yearly show at the Thailand Cultural Centre is an absolute must-see if you’re lucky enough to be in town while it is being performed. Traditional Thai dance, called khon, sees slow, controlled moves and graceful poses, followed by a sudden release of energy. The intricate costumes, the painted masks and the serene music all add to the appeal. Details at www.khonperformance.com. Tickets are B420-1,520. Available at www.thaiticketmajor.com or 02-262-3456.

NOV 13-16

NOV 6

NOV 16

NOV1-16

FINE ARTS

ALL AFLOAT

SAX APPEAL

CENTER STAGE

Prof. Dr Apinan Poshyananda curates Thai Charisma: Heritage + Creative Power on the 8th floor of Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, an exhibition of contemporary artworks and traditional crafts on loan from the department of Fine Arts. Many of the pieces on display are being shown to the public for the first time, with work chosen to draw attention to the anonymity of certain artists against the high profiles of venerated masters such as Jakkai Siributr, Rirkrit Tiravanija and the recently deceased Thawan Duchanee.

When the cool season arrives and the moon is full, Thais across the country head to the river and make a wish for Loy Krathong. One of the top spots to celebrate Loy Krathong in Bangkok is at the lovely Nagaraphirom Park by the Chao Phraya River, where candlelit boats will flood the water, while a spectacular firework display takes place overhead. There will also be exhibitions and cultural performances from Thailand’s different regions.

Jazz lovers, take note. This year’s River Jazz Festival features world famous jazz saxophonist Kenny G, who will perform his smooth sounds at the open-air riverfront Asiatique park. The evening will start with a performance by the orchestra band from Mahidol University at around 6pm, followed by popular Thai jazz band ETC. After Kenny G’s performance, the star saxophonist will spend time with his fans and give autographs to those who buy CDs. Tickets are B1,000, B2,000 and B3,000, available at www. thaiticketmajor.com or 02-262-3456.

Bangkok Theatre Festival 2014 features a wide range of performances including traditional Thai dance, mime performances, acrobatics, magic shows and contemporary dance. This year’s festival will return to the charming Santichaiprakan Park as well as restaurants and bars around Phra Athit Road and Banglampu on Nov 1-2. From Nov 4-16, various shows will be performed on the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre’s fourth floor and at other theaters around Bangkok.

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, 02214-6639. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. BTS National Stadium. www.bacc.or.th

Nagaraphirom Park, Tha Tien Pier. Call the TAT on 1672 from Thai phones for more information

Asiatique, 2194 Charoen Krung Rd. 02108-4488. Free ferry from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin). tinyurl.com/lklr4uv

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, 939 Rama 1 Rd., BTS National Stadium. 02214-6630/8. www.bangkoktheatrefestival.com

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DINING SALA RATTANAKOSIN RESTAURANT & BAR

ANGELINI

TRADER VIC’S

RIVERSIDE FAVORITES

No trip to Bangkok is complete without dinner and drinks by the majestic Chao Phraya. By Wachiraporn Janrut BABBLE & RUM

SALA RATTANAKOSIN EATERY & BAR Sala Rattanakosin offers stunning views of Wat Arun. The renovated four-story shophouse boasts a small number of guestrooms but half of the building is dedicated to wining and dining, courtesy of Chef Tony Wrigley, whose restaurant whips up some pretty impressive Thai food. For us though, the highlight of Sala Rattanakosin is its rooftop bar— the perfect place for sipping a great selection of house-blended cocktails. Sala Rattanakosin Hotel, 39 Maharaj Rd., 02-6221388. Open daily 7am-10pm. Tha Tien Pier.

SALA RIM NAAM

BABBLE & RUM

Situated in a traditional wooden pavillion, Sala Rim Naam serves up mild yet authentic Thai flavors, with nods to Royal cuisine and an emphasis on quality ingredients. The restaurant has a terrace overlooking the Chao Phraya River, where you can enjoy al fresco dining. Try the signature dishes like goong phad prig daeng (fried prawn with garlic and red chilli sauce) and the recommended massamun nuea (Southern-style beef curry with sweet potato and onion).

The main restaurant (G/F) and bar (2/F) of this welcoming riverside hotel next to Phra Athit Pier are decorated like a contemporary French cafe, finished in dark woods, mirrors and leather-clad couches. An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make it the perfect spot for a chilled night out. The menu features Thai and inter comfort food and plenty of cocktails. Try the Jelly Riva (vodka, melon syrup, lime juice on top of jelly).

Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000 ext 7333. Free ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin. Open daily noon-3pm, 5pm-midnight.

1-2/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Athit Rd., 02-633-5000. Open Mon-Tue 6:30-12:30am. Phra Athit Pier.

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ANGELINI

SAMBAL

The arrival of chef Omar Ugoletti a few This stylish riverside venue serves Southeast Asian cuisine with a contemporary years ago really brought this long-standtouch. Opt to eat and drink al fresing hotel restaurant back into the co, under the enormous banspotlight, making it once more yan tree, close to the cabanaa top choice for Italian fine like bar and picturesque river dining. Ugoletti honed his scene. Apart from the fivecraft during stints at twostar views, you can expect Michelin-starred establishdelightful dishes like the Bali ments Uliassi and La Mabouillabaisse which is served donnina del Pescatore in Italy, piping hot and has rich texture and his Italian dishes combine SAMBAL and superb flavor. There is a good modern techniques and beautiful list of tropical-feeling signature presentation. The service is also cocktails, too, such as Mangkut a bonus and a river view is never Drowning, which combines Barbados dark a bad thing. Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suanplu, New Rd., 02rum with mangosteen puree. 236-7777. Free ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin. Open daily 6-10:30pm.

Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 2 Charoen Krung Soi 30, 02-266-9214. Free ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin. Open daily 6-10:30pm.

THIPTARA

TRADER VIC’S Known for its strong cocktails and Pacific Rim cuisine, the Polynesian-inspired Trader Vic’s also has a good selection of grilled meats and fish, as well as foie gras and French oysters. A stunning view of the river is a bonus, as is their solid choice of cold cuts, salmon and sushi. Trader Vic’s Sunday brunch is a great way to escape the hectic city without leaving Bangkok.

CRUISE ALONG

The beginning of the cool season means it’s the best time to hop on board a dinner cruise. Here are three of our favorites along the Chao Phraya River.

Manohra

Horizon Boat

Grand Pearl

Thiptara means “water from the heavens” in Thai, a fitting name for the open-air pavilions surrounded by gardens and furnished with with antiques and traditional artworks. The kitchen serves up classic dishes from Thailand’s different regions, such as the restaurant’s signature gaeng phend ped yang (roasted duck in red curry) and pla hima sam rod (deep fried snow fish with spicy, sweet and sour sauce).

Set on a restored old rice barge, this intimate cruise welcomes a capacity of 40 people in an open-air setting. There are two set dinner packages: Gold comprises 12 Thai dishes (B2,500 per person) and Silver eight dishes (B1,750 per person). Sample classic Thai dishes like tom yum kung (spicy prawn soup with herbs and lime juice) and massaman nong kai (chicken massaman curry), while enjoying beautiful views of Wat Pho and Wat Arun with evening light displays. Finish your meal with scrumptious Thai desserts like khao niew mamoung (sweet mango with sticky rice). Cocktails are available.

This boat has an air-conditioned cabin that can fit up to 150 people, as well as an outdoor seating area on the upper deck. It sets off from the hotel’s pier at about 7:30pm with drinks served on deck. Then you can come down to enjoy an extensive international buffet which includes seafood, a sushi corner, vegetarian food and popular Thai-style spicy salads and curries. The boat sails past Bangkok’s riverside attractions so you can enjoy the scenic views and returns you to the hotel at about 9:30pm. Priced at B2,300, the dinner cruise runs every day except Monday and Tuesday.

Set on a three-story ship, this cruise can accommodate 300 people in its air-conditioned cabins on the first two floors and open-air seating area on the upper deck. The ferry leaves the River City Shopping Complex Pier daily at 7:30pm and sails past the city’s riverside attractions, slowing down to allow passengers to take snapshots. Onboard entertainment includes live music and classical Thai dance performances. The international buffet features classic Thai dishes and a sushi corner. Priced at B1,700 per person.

The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoen Nakorn, 02861-2888. Free ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin. Open daily 6-10:30pm.

Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa, 257 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-4770770. www.manohracruises.com

Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa, 257/1-3 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-476-0022. Free ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am; Sun 11:30am-3pm.

THIPTARA

Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-2367777. www.shangri-la.com

Grand Pearl Cruise, 123-125 Soi Charoennakhorn 13, Charoennakhon Rd., 02-861-0255 ext. 5. www.grandpearlcruise.com

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DINING

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VIVA AVIV

Located right by the Chao Phraya River, this venue has a pirate theme with a dash of industrial chic: the bar is made out of old wooden crates, with lobster traps lining the walls and sailboat hardware hanging from the ceiling. Soak up the river view and enjoy bistro-style food and inventive, well-made cocktails lke the Pina Colasi (Appleton Jamaican rum, fresh pineapple, orange and black pepper syrup, citrus and fresh young coconut foam). B/F, River City Shopping Complex, 23 Yotha Rd., 02-639-6305. Open daily 11am-midnight.

THREESIXTY

CHON Set in a beautiful Thai teak house that was brought down from Ayutthaya and painted all in black, Chon is the signature Thai restaurant at the luxurious riverside boutique hotel, The Siam. Admire an impressive array of antiques and collectables like a reclining Buddha statue and a vintage dressing table in the dining room, and sample authentic Thai food while enjoying views of the Chao Phraya River and Krung Thonburi Bridge. Thai. The Siam, 3/2 Khao Rd., 02-206-6999. Open daily noon-11pm.

THREESIXTY For pretty views without the wind, the Three Sixty Bar’s location on the 32nd floor of a riverside hotel lets you watch barges navigate the Chao Phraya as you comfortably seat yourselves by the slanted windows and sip on a cocktail or glass of vino. Aim to get there just before sunset to enjoy the stunning views of the twilight sky over Wat Arun and the grand palace along the Chao Phraya River. Millenium Hilton Bangkok, 123 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-442-2020. Open daily 5pm-1am.

CHON

CONCIERGE CHOICES Five-star concierges from Bangkok’s best hotels tell us their top riverside tips.

Ladawan Piirainen Chief Concierge, The Peninsula

Chaba Khampa Chief Concierge, Mandarin Oriental

Vuttinun Vikiniyadhanee Chief Concierge, Shangri-la Hotel

On the scenic Thonburi side of the river, Baan Silapin (315 Wat Thongsala Ngam, Soi Petchakasm 28, 02-868-5279. www.klongbangluang.com) artists’ house is home to a young, talented group of performers who are keeping the art of Thai puppet theater alive—it’s also free of charge. Sit back and relax, walk around the local area, sample some local food and end your trip with a visit to Wat Arun. I personally love to spend an evening at Sala Rattanakosin’s open-air bar, especially during Nov-Feb when the weather is nice and cool. It’s the most charming spot to spend your early evening before dinner.

Sightseeing in the capital is not complete without a visit to Bangkok’s majestic temples. If your time is limited, I recommend the Grand Palace followed by Wat Pho. Avoid the crowds by visiting in the afternoon. Catch the Chao Phraya Express Boat from the public pier by Saphan Taksin BTS station at 2:30pm, reaching the Grand Palace by 3pm. Walk around until closing time (4pm), and then walk to Wat Pho to make merit at the imposing sleeping Buddha. If you’re tired, you can also get an excellent Thai massage. Then, head back down the river to Asiatique night market, where you can shop for souvenirs before enjoying authentic Thai food at Baan Khanitha restaurant (36/1 Soi Sukhumvit 23, 02 258 418. www.baan-khanitha.com).

Rent a long-tail speed boat to go sightseeing around the Thonburi klongs canals. As well as passing by the main riverside temples, you’ll also get to see the scenic side of life along Bangkok’s waterways. Be sure to stop at the Royal Barge Musem (80/1 Arun Amarin Rd., 02-424-0004) on Bangkok Noi canal. Afterwards, stop at one of the riverside bars. My favorite is a little space called The 342 Bar (www. fb.com/342Bar) near Wang Lang Pier, which has spectacular views of the Grand Palace and Temple of Dawn.

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GUIDES

TOURS WITH A DIFFERENCE

Four unique ways to explore Bangkok. By Wachiraporn Janrut

SLICES OF SIAM: A JOURNEY THROUGH THAILAND’S HISTORY Non-profit organization National Museum Volunteers (NMV) has begun a series of lectures that provide a deeper understanding of Thai history and culture. Slices of Siam: A Journey Through Thailand’s History features eight lectures per month covering the country’s social, cultural and religious development. Speakers include well-respected professors and authors like Prof. Pisit Charoenwongsa, Dr. Amara Sricuchat and Dr. Chris Baker. Lectures take place at National Museum Bangkok’s Auditorium on Nov 6, 13, 20 and 27 from 9am-12pm. B400 per day and B1,500 for all lectures. Details at www.museumvolunteersbkk.net or register at lectureseriesnmv@gmail.com.

ARCHITECTURE TOUR Home to historic temples, beautiful palaces and exotic Thai houses, Bangkok is a city of contrast. If you’d rather see the modern side of the city, try Exotissimo Travel’s (02633-9060, www.exotissimo.com) half-day contemporary architecture tour. Starting at BTS Chong Nonsi station, you’ll be led along the futuristic skywalk between Sathorn and Narathiwatratchanakarin Roads, lined with some of Bangkok’s most contemporary skyscrapers. Jump on a tuk-tuk to Wireless Road for a look at the conical, glass-clad All Seasons Place before heading to Bangkok’s newest luxury mall, Central Embassy, for a spot of shopping. The curvaceous building with its shimmering louvered façade also happens to be an Amanda Levete design. Price is B2,800 per person, with a minimum of two people per trip.

BIKE TOUR There are numerous Bangkok-based travel agencies offering bicycle tour packages, ranging from a half-day tour in Bangkok to a week riding around Northern Thailand. Some of the best-known agencies are SpiceRoads (www.SpiceRoads.com), Grasshopper Tours (www.grasshopperadventures.com), Co van Kessel Tours (www.CoVanKessel. com), Follow Me (www.FollowMeBikeTour. com) and Recreational Thailand Biking (www.bangkokbiking.com). For an alternative look at riverside culture, try Grasshopper Adventures’ (02-280-0832, www.grasshopperadventures.com) Where Bangkok Began tour. At 15km, the six-hour ride isn’t exactly strenuous, but limited to groups of six it does offer an intimate glimpse of the Chinese, Muslim and Portuguese communities which call multicultural Bangkok Noi home. Highlights include a look inside Masjid Bang Luang, the oldest mosque in town, a much-less-crowded Wat Arun after sundown, plus a canal-side, home-cooked dinner under the stars. The price of B2,500 covers bike hire, all food and drinks, and guides to navigate you through the spell-binding maze of back-streets.

A DAY AS A FISHERMAN IN BANGKHUNTIAN

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A DAY AS A FISHERMAN IN BANGKHUNTIAN

THE RIVERSIDE CULTURE TOUR ON A BIKE

THE LOST TREASURE TOUR

COMMUNITY TOUR Local Alike (095-569-7877, www.localalike.com) offers several tour programs that let you see a different side to Thai culture. Beyond shopping and visiting temples, you can play a part in a local community by spending time with the residents, learning their daily routines and how they make a living. A Day as a Fisherman (B1,400), for example, takes you to Bangkhuntian, a coastal fisherman’s village on the outskirts of Bangkok, to meet the mangrove-dwelling San-tor community and join them for a homemade seafood dinner. When the meal’s through, don a traditional pair of fisherman’s pants to handpick seashells from the shallows. More into arts and handicrafts? Try the day-long Lost Treasure in Bangkok tour (B1,350), which takes you to the Ban-Bat community, who for over 100 years have been making bowls for monks.

HISTORIC SIAMESE CITY OF AYUTTHAYA

FOUR TRAVEL APPS WORTH CHECKING OUT Get the most from your holiday with these smartphone apps. Greg’s Bangkok Download this new walking tour app to explore the city independently. Launched by Greg Jorgensen (www.gregtodiffer.com), a long-term Canadian expat and a travel expert, the iPhone app features four different walking tours: “Must-See” covers classic attractions like the Rattanakosin temples, the giant swing known as Sao Ching Cha and Saranrom park; “Chinatown Eats” guides you to the tastiest street food in the bustling Yaowarat district, home to Bangkok’s Thai-Chinese community and countless curbside restaurants; “Clear Across” Bangkok focuses on the city’s green areas and parks; and “Walk on the Wild Side” takes you to lesser-known areas such as the Middle Eastern district, where you can enjoy hummus and shisha before venturing into the notorious nearby red light district. The app also gives handy pointers on how to avoid scams. iOs only. US$2.99

European Heritage Map and Cultural Calendar of Thailand Discover European culture’s influences on Thailand’s past using this new app by the European Union National Institute for Culture together with the EU Delegation and European embassies in Thailand. It features over 250 heritage sites or buildings that blend Thai and Western architectural styles. Though the country has never been colonized, European influences are evident in many of the country’s architectural landmarks including the Embassy of Portugal and Kalawar Church in Bangkok, Chantaburi’s Cathedral of Immaculate Conception, and Petchaburi’s Phra Nakhon Khiri Palace. Along with images and descriptions, there’s a cultural calendar highlighting happenings around the country. Available in both Thai and English for iOS and Android. Free.

Amazing Thailand One way to keep updated with travel news in Thailand is to download the Amazing Thailand app, launched by the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT), which offers useful guides, travel information, as well as hotel deals and travel packages. A recent update includes more user-friendly features like interactive maps, “Thai Live Cam” which lets you see attractions in real time through videos, and a QR code scanner for quick travel updates. iOs and Android. Free.

BK Now This handy app has all the recent restaurant openings in Bangkok, plus the latest events. It’s constantly updated and features concerts, plays, exhibitions and just about anything taking place in the capital. Available on iOs. Free.

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AROUND THAILAND THE LATEST OPENINGS AND HAPPENINGS AROUND THE KINGDOM

CAMEL REPUBLIC

VIP RIDE

LE CORAL HIDEAWAY BEYOND PHUKET

PHUKET

CHA-AM

EASTIN PROMISE

GO WEST

CAMEL REPUBLIC

A new addition to the Northern capital of Chiang Mai, Eastin Tan Hotel (052-001999, www.eastintanchiangmai.com) is set to open its doors on Dec 1. Located near the vibrant Nimanhemin Road, the 128-room hotel has seven room types ranging from a 35-sq-meter superior to a luxurious 162-sq-meter three-bedroom duplex suite. The latter is great for a family or a group of friends as the suite can fit up to six people and also comes equipped with a spacious living room and dining area with pantry and stove, microwave and washing machine. Opening rates are B1,999 for a superior room and B14,000 for a duplex suite.

Phuket recently welcomed Novotel Phuket Cha-am has recently welcomed a new themed Karon Beach (076-358-666, www.no- attraction, Camel Republic (092-269-5055, votelphuketkaron.com), a 224-room www.fb.com/camelrepublic), decked resort located a five-minute walk out with bright, Middle Easternfrom Karon Beach and 45-mininspired architecture. Located ute drive from Phuket Town. on Petchkasem Road, almost There are seven room types opposite the Greek-themed ranging from a 28-sq-meter attraction Santorini Park, the standard room to a 60-sqnew theme park has a zoo with meter plunge pool suite. Also camels, flamingos and alpacas, on-site are three restaurants and plus a host of fun rides. Of course, two bars, as well as a kids’ club and there are also many spots to snap NOVOTEL PHUKET a spa. Through Dec 19, it’s offering that kooky holiday photo, too. With a “stay three nights, pay two” packthe Swiss Sheep Farm also nearby, age with rates starting from B3,609 for a this area has become a bit of a family favorite. standard room and B6,565 for a plunge pool Tickets are B120 per person. Open Mon-Thu suite (per night). 10am-6pm, Fri-Sun 9am-7pm.

CHIANG MAI

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PHANG NGA

LUXE FOR LESS Located a 30-minute drive from Phuket’s International Airport, Phang Nga is an alternative beach paradise for those who want to steer clear of the crowds. The stylish Le Coral Hideaway Beyond Phuket (076-679-888, www.coralhideaway.com) is now offering an attractive “stay one night, get one night free” deal. Two nights in the the 52-sq-meter Horizon Suite will cost you B5,700 including breakfast for two. A great deal for one of the area’s best designed hotels. Valid through Nov 15.

EASTIN TAN CHIANG MAI

PATTAYA

RIP-OFF FREE CAMEL REPUBLIC

NOVOTEL PHUKET

HUA HIN

VIP RIDE Heading to Hua Hin beach from Bangkok’s airport? Try the new VIP coach service recently launched by Roong Reuang. The buses are equipped with seat belts, toilets and a 2-1 seat configuration that lets you choose to sit alone or in couples. Daily return services run from 7:30am-7:30pm, leaving from Suvarnabhumi airport every two hours. Unlike the minivan services, Roong Reuang’s buses only stop at Chaam intersection and Hua Hin Bus Station. The price is B305 per seat. Book online at www.airporthuahinbus.com.

GRAB TAXI

The increasingly popular taxi app Grab Taxi (www.grabtaxi.com) has recently expanded its turf to Pattaya City, where it charges a service fee of B40 on top of the metered fare for a distance of six km and below within the city center. Even more exciting, we are hearing rumors that they’ll soon be moving to Phuket, too, where the taxi mafia is notorious and rides are ridiculously overpriced. Available on iOS Android, Blackberry or Windows.

CHIANG MAI HOT SPOTS

Our favorite bars in the Northern capital

BEER REPUBLIC

MIXOLOGY

THE GOOD VIEW

One of most popular night spots in Chiang Mai, this cozy bar offers a wide selection of beers with as many as 15 draft beer options. Apart from all the household names, Beer Republic offers up a bunch of more esoteric drops, such as Kostritzer Black Lager, Morland Old Speckled Hen and Weihenstephaner Vitus Weizen-Bock.

The charmingly rustic ambience is all bare-brick walls, wooden tables and beautiful bric-a-brac. The drinks menu features various cocktails with interesting names like Love Me Love My Dog, Chiang Mai Chanee Berry and Lost in the Fruit Garden. The theme extends to the food, with offerings like the Chiang Mai Burger, which comes with a Northernstyle laab patty made with rice.

For a relaxed, informal and seriously fun night out, wander down to the river and seek out the Good View. This Chiang Mai institution is a cavernous, semi-open-air bar-cum-restaurant-cum-live music venue that always seems to be bursting at the seams. Book early if you want to get a table out by the river.

28 Nimmanhaemin Soi 11, Suthep, 053-216-568. www.beerrepublicchiangmai.com

61/6 Arak Rd., Phrasingha, 088-2613057, 083-070-6190.

13 Charoenraj Rd., Wat Gate, 053302-764, 053-241-866. www.goodview.co.th

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where

AROUND THAILAND : KRABI

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

ON THE ROCKS

THE HILLTOP RESTAURANT

Limestone cliffs and turquoise water are not all Krabi has to offer.

HONG ISLANDS

IBIS STYLES KRABI

EAT

THE HILLTOP RESTAURANT For some of the best views in Krabi, book a table at this spacious and sleekly designed restaurant above Ao Nang and Noppharat Thara beaches. The menu covers a solid selection of Thai favorites with a focus on seafood. Request a table on the grassy area away from the main building for the best views. 99 Moo 3, Ao Nang, 075-637-195. Open daily 11-1am. www.thehilltopaonang.com

RUEN MAI This Krabi favorite moved to new premises in 2013 between Krabi Town and Ao Nang. The open-air bamboo structure, with soaring conical ceiling, rustic décor, traditional tiles and private dining salas, is a lovely setting to enjoy excellent Thai food. 315/5 Maharaj Rd., 089-288-3232. Open daily 10:30am-3pm, 5-10pm. www.fb.com/ ruenmaikrabirestuarant

HONG ISLANDS

PLAY

OH MY GOD (OMG)

HONG ISLANDS

For some late-night drinking and live music, this bar-slash-restaurant at Klong Ji Lard Junction is as popular with locals as it is with tourists. Lots of neon-blue lighting makes for a definite nightclub vibe with live music playing till 11pm, while more casual drinks can be had on the outdoor terrace.

Than Bokkhorani National Park is a 45-minute taxi from Krabi Town and home to this collection of small islands characterized by limestone cliffs and fine white sand beaches. On the largest island, Mu Koh Hong, you’ll find a 400-meter nature trail.

198 Krabi Rd., 088-761-0623. Open daily 4pm-late. www.fb.com/pages/pubrestaurant

STAY

IBIS STYLES KRABI This brand new 206-room hotel has a crisp, clean appearance somewhere between a resort and a city hotel, in keeping with its location in Ao Nang town, five minutes from the beach. Standard 20-sq-meter rooms are modestly priced and have a basic but stylish appearance. Hotel facilities include a free-form pool and free beach shuttle service.

Than Bokkhorani National Park. Open daily 6am-6pm

EMERALD POOL Named after the glorious emerald color of its water, this hot-water lagoon is just 45 minutes from Ao Nang town in Khao Phra Bang Khram Nature Reserve. The vivid color comes from the high quantity of calcium carbonate deposits in the 30-50-degree water— a great way to relax after a walk in the nature reserve.

RUEN MAI

BANGKOK

KRABI

GETTING THERE AirAsia (www. airasia.com), Nok Air (www.nokair.com) and Thai Airways (www.thaiairways. com) fly direct (1hr) to Krabi Airport from Bangkok.

Klong Thon. Open daily 8:30am-5pm

725 Moo 2, Ao-nang, 075-626-388

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NOVEMBER 2014 | BANGKOK

SUKHUMVIT SOIS 31-49 Sukhumvit is one very long road (it stretches all the way to Pattaya, a couple hours’ drive from Bangkok). But one of its most happening areas is between sois (that’s Thai for streets) 31 and 49, a veritable warren of alleys packed with the city’s best pizza, crab curry, coffee and sake.

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 18 SUKHUMVIT SOIS 31-49

20 PHLOEN CHIT

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EXPLORING

SUKHUMVIT SOIS 31-49 Y SPOTLIGHT

Asian Flavors

From vibrant Lao salads to steaming bowls of Japanese ramen, the area is a hotbed of great Asian cuisine.

!4 Thai Lao Yeh Fiery Lao and Northern dishes in an elegant boutique hotel meant to evoke the home of an affluent family living somewhere in 1920s Asia. Just as importantly, all the ingredients feel incredibly fresh and service is impeccable. Cabochon Bangkok, 14/29 Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-259-28713. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10:30pm.

NEW

PEPPINA

Wanting to make the most authentic Neapolitan pizza in Bangkok, Chef Paolo Vitaletti (of the highly esteemed Appia, which is just around the corner) ordered his massive pizza oven directly from Italy, along with a Neapolitan baker with five years’ experience just to make the dough. The result is simply some of the best Italian pizza in town. But Peppina also serves a variety of fresh salads, specialty cold cuts and hearty grilled meats. 1 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-119-7677. Open Tue-Sun 6:30-11pm. ambitions of making Thai art as big an international hit on the art market as China 10 years ago. Expect international names like Helmut Newton and David LaChapelle, too.

THE ADLER SUBHASHOK GALLERY

GALLERIES AND ATTRACTIONS Although the Emporium shopping mall is currently undergoing major renovations, it’s business as usual on its top stories, at 2 Thailand Creative and Design Center (6/F, The Emporium, 02-664-8448), home to rotating exhibitions, a permanent collection of style icons from the Nintendo Gameboy to the Vespa, and a beautiful library overlooking Benjasiri Park. For exhibitions of contemorary fine art, head to 3 The Adler Subhashok Gallery (160/3 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-662-0299), which has

THE ADLER SUBHASHOK GALLERY

bar. If nail treatment is what you’re after, check out 5 Ten Ten (593/2 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-259-3510), where they promise to use only the best nail products from well-established brands such as OPI, Joico and Guinot. COFFEE 6 Casa Lapin x49 (opposite Samitivej Hospital, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 081257-7920) offers a slice of Brooklyn in Bangkok thanks to the owner’s keen eye for rustic-industrial decor. And they serve a serious cup of coffee—choose from espresso machine, drip or French press, expertly made

HEALTH AND WELLNESS After a morning on your feet, head to 4 Chillax Spa (12/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-258-5018) for some pampering. Apart from the usual Thai and aroma massages and body scrubs, this spa also specializes in rejuvenation therapies for heavy partygoers. Oh, and there’s even a

!2 Hong Bao This bright white dining space decked out with chandeliers and ink drawings from 18th century Europe serves some of the best dim sum in town. We’re particularly fond of the steamed rice rolls with crispy shrimps. Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-3565. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:309:30pm; Sat-Sun 10:30am-9:30pm.

!6 Bankara Ramen This ramen favorite is known for its fatty tonkotsu broth, served with perfectly al dente noodles and various forms of intensely flavorful slow-cooked chashu. A cholesterol attack, yes, but definitely worth trying. The three-day-braised pork belly is delicious. The Manor, 32 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-622-5162/3. Open daily 11am11pm.

CASA LAPIN X49

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EXPLORING

SUKHUMVIT SOIS 31-49 and served with bakery goods from young Thai entrepeneurs. For more than just a cup of coffee, 7 Caffe What If (The Green Connect, 235/10 Sukhumvit 31, 02-662-8048) also sells decorative home items, craft beers from Hitachino, Marou chocolate bars and savory dishes like osso buco. Their coffee beans are also excellent.

CAFFE WHAT IF

with flavor. You can tell everything is homemade and, where possible, from locally-sourced ingredients. For Ital-

Y SPOTLIGHT

ian, 9 Appia (20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-261-2056) is firmly the city’s safest bet, offering authentically home-style Roman cuisine, from rustic pastas to crispy roast pork. Just around the corner, you’ll find its casual sister, Peppina (see page 18). Part of a new wave of casual international restaurants that emphasize excellent food over fine dining formality, its contemporaries include !0 Quince (Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-6624478), where you can find Mediterranean-inspired food (plus excellent wine and cocktails) in a bright and airy dining room, and !1 Smith (1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-0515-6),

ASTON DINING ROOM & BAR

serving a nose-to-tail-influenced menu in a moody and industrial setting. If upscale and contemporary is what you’re after, try !2 The Library by Water Library (Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-3564), where comforting brasserie dishes are paired with fine-dining service. They also do an excellent brunch menu of eggs benedict crab cake and brioche French toast. Nearby, the three story tangle of concrete beams, steel cables and ferns that is !3 Aston Dining Room & Bar (68 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-1022323) serves an inventive five-course chef’s table menu using only the best produce: beef from Australia, quail from France, and locally-sourced vegetables and suckling pigs.

DINING Whether you want Thai, Western or Japanese, this is the spot to be. The Australian chef at 8 Paste (120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-392-4313) uses modern techniques to transform wonderful produce into some of the most intriguing Thai food around. Every mint leaf, every pickled chili is bursting

SMITH

Hanakaruta

This Japanese izakaya is one hell of a place to get a good drink. The barman is very passionate, often inviting guests to taste spirit after spirit before mixing them a personalized cocktail that’s served with an ice ball carved right before your eyes. The selection of Japanese whiskies and sake is vast, as is evident from the gigantic wall of liquor bottles behind the bar. Tasty Japanese bar snacks are also available. !6 36/4 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-6627339. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-2am.

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1 Peppina 2 Thailand Creative and Design Center 3 The Adler Subhashok Gallery 4 Chillax Spa 5 Ten Ten 6 Casa Lapin x49 7 Caffe What If 8 Paste 9 Appia !0 Quince !1 Smith !2 The Library by Water Library + Hong Bao !3 Aston Dining Room & Bar !4 Thai Lao Yeh !5 Bankara Ramen (Sukhumvit Soi 39) !6 Hanakaruta

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EXPLORING

PHLOEN CHIT

GAYSORN

sartorial tips from Win, his son. Know precisely what you want before you go (although this is one of the safer tailors for the uninitiated), and make sure you have enough time for several fittings. For more high-end shopping, visit the compact but nonetheless very luxurious 4 Gaysorn (02-656-1177). As well as numerous luxury international fashion labels, you’ll find Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya and Zenithorial. Pick up locally crafted gifts from Jim Thompson, or indulge at 4 Panpuri Organic Spa (L/F, Gaysorn, 02-6561199).

NEW

DINING This is a very international area for dining. In fact the only cuisine that’s thin on the ground is Thai food. For a respite from Central Embassy’s boutiques, pull up a blond-wood chair at 1 Siwilai Rocket Coffeebar (5/F Central Embassy, 02-635-0404) for organic

EATHAI

EATHAI is a large food market offering a variety of Thai regional dishes like Northern-style sausages, beef green curry and somtam (Northeastern-style papaya salad). There’s also a seafood market and the Issaya Cooking Studio, run by the renowned local chef from Issaya Siamese Club. There, you can learn to make Thai classics from nam jim (dipping sauces) to pastes and curries, as well as innovative desserts. 1 LG/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-119-7777. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 10am-10pm. GIANNI RISTORANTE

erhaps Bangkok’s sleekest neighborhood, Phloen Chit serves up refined restaurants, luxurious boutiques and elegant bars, all within easy BTS access (Phloen Chit Station).

GALLERIES AND ATTRACTIONS For rare and beautiful publications, 1 Hardcover: The Art Book Shop (4/F, Central Embassy, 02-160-5977) is one of the high-end Central Embassy shopping mall’s hidden gems. Expect to find rare publications like Taschen’s supersized Sebastiao Salgado: Genesis, which comes with its own Tadao Ando display stand. At the back of the store is an art exhibition space called Serindia Gallery Annex. Nearby, on a leafy sidestreet, 2 100 Tonson (100 Soi Tonson, 02-684-1527) is located in a beautiful building designed by renowned French designer Christian Liaigre, and regularly welcomes such high-profile artists as Rirkrit Tiravanija. SHOPPING 1 Central Embassy (1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-119-7777) dedicates eight floors to retail shops from some of the

world’s most exciting fashion brands, including Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin and Jil Sander. For something more unique, check out 1 Alexander Lamont (2/F, Central Embassy, 02-160-5772), who creates

CENTRAL EMBASSY

beautiful decorative objects which draw on both European and Asian design. The luxurious materials, from bronze to stingray skin, are handcrafted by a team of skilled artisans working

VUUDH

from Bangkok to create pieces that are both unique and meaningful. In the same mall, 1 Vuudh (4/F, Central Embassy, 02-610-5826) is a Thai company specializing in high-end interior fragrances with an Eastern influence. Its selection of products is limited— candles, diffusers and sprays—but very elegant, much like the store itself. For a genuinely good Bangkok tailoring experience, stop by 3 Pinky Tailor (Mahatun Plaza Arcade, 02-653-6328). The patriarch, Pinky, still rules over his cramped shop packed to the rafters with bolts of cloth. But we like to get

salads, freshly baked goods and artisanal coffee. The highlight has to be its delightful breakfast menu that you can enjoy with views of the British Embassy’s gardens. For a light bite, drop by 5 Café Tartine (Athenee Residence, Soi Ruamrudee, 02-168-5464) for its solid lineup of French sandwiches, soups, quiches and salads. Desserts, like the tarte tatin and crème brulee, are also delicious. Prefer Italian? !0 Gianni Ristorante (34/1 Soi Tonson, 02-2521619), or “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, has consistently oustanding food, an elegant opera-house atmo-

LE BEAULIEU

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EXPLORING

PHLOEN CHIT sphere and polished service. The everchanging specials frequently knock it out of the ballpark. Big spenders need know only one place: 7 Le Beaulieu (G/F, Athenee Office Tower, 02-1688220-3), which is run by the most high-profile French chef in Bangkok— do not miss the cote de boeuf. Sticking to fine dining, 8 Yamazato (24/F, The Okura Prestige, 02-687-9000) is one of Bangkok’s most luxurious Japanese restaurants, serving grand 6-8 course kaiseki dinners. On a more casual tip, the Mexican 9 La Monita Taqueria (Mahatun Plaza, 888/25-26 Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-9581) does hands-down the best quesadilla and fish taco in town. Burritos and the steak torta are also excellent thanks to well-flavored meat,

OGU OGU

Y SPOTLIGHT

HYDE AND SEEK

onions, cilantro and a squeeze of lime. NIGHTLIFE 8 Ogu Ogu (G/F, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 02-108-2255) dubs itself a sake bar and takes no little inspiration from New York. The space is all about hanging wires, lamps, wooden partitions and some patterned chairs. The food isn’t too authentic, but make it for the 5-7pm happy hour to enjoy some fun sake tasting flights. Later in the evening, head over to Soi Ruamrudee for the chic gastro bar 6 Hyde and Seek (Athenee Residence, Soi Ruamrudee, 02-168-5152-3). As well as lovinglymade traditional pub food with a highend twist, this bar does some seriously good cocktails, made by a team of respected barmen.

Siwilai

The flagship concept store of the high-end Central Embassy shopping mall is a 826-sq-meter lifestyle retail space featuring non-mainstream designer goods. Their exclusive product selection is headlined by collaborations between Siwilai and of-the-moment brands like Kitsune, Globe-Trotter and Orlebar Brown. As well as fashion, the store also houses vintage records, books, magazines and other curiosities.

1 5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5809-12. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.siwilaistore.com. BTS Phloen Chit

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Phloen

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ThewhereGuide NOVEMBER 2014 | BANGKOK

SIAM WISDOM In a house with all the charm of a traditional Thai home, local celebrity Chef Chumpol Jangprai serves up authentic Thai dishes created from high-quality local produce, such as kapi (shrimp paste) from Klong Khon, and palm sugar from Petchaburi. There’s an à la carte menu for lunch, while dinner is reserved for set menus. One of the stand-out dishes is the gaeng kua poo (Southern-style curry with crab and betel leaf) but rarer options like the gaeng buan (herbal soup with pork intestines) and sai krok pla nam (heritage-style pork sausage) are delicious, too. 66 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-260-7811-2. BTS Asoke.

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 23 SHOPS + SERVICES 24 DINING

26 NIGHTLIFE 30 HEALTH + WELLNESS

31 PROPERTY 32 ART + ATTRACTIONS

33 NAVIGATE

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BANGKOK

SHOPPING

MACHINE AGE WORKSHOP This store specializes in restoring, recycling and repurposing antiques from America’s golden age of manufacturing, from the late 1800s to mid-1900s. Expect to find items like vintage U.S. Army drafting tables, wood radios and leather luggage. It’s also worth stopping by to visit the café, where you can get a good cup of coffee, craft beer, and hearty pulled pork and beef brisket sandwiches. 281/7 Ekkamai Soi 15, 02-381-8596. Open TueSun 10am-7pm. tinyurl.com/phla6ev

Hot Spots MULTI-BRAND CONCEPT STORES

SIWILAI

The 826-sq-meter flagship concept store of the high-end Central Embassy shopping mall features non-mainstream designer goods from some of the most of-the-moment brands. Their exclusive product selection is headlined by collaborations between Siwilai and international names like Kitsune, Globe-Trotter and Orlebar Brown. As well as fashion, the store also houses vintage records, books, magazines and other curiosities. 5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5809-12. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.siwilaistore.com

PIMP YOUR POCKET

AMERICAN RAG CIE

Stocked from top to bottom with a staggering number of men’s, women’s, shoes, and denim brands, American Rag Cie, located right by CentralWorld’s futuristic annex, Groove, is the first branch of the American multi-brand store to open in Southeast Asia. Head straight to the shop’s World Denim Bar area, which offers quality denim products from wellknown brands such as Paige, BLK DNM, and J Brand.

Multi-label store Next to Normal features fashion and lifestyle products from a long list of global fashion brands such as Ashbury, Thom Browne, Maison Kitsune, Undercover, and Clover Canyon. Next to Normal encourages its customers to get a bit more adventurous with their looks and get with the latest catwalk trends by mixing and matching products from the diverse pool of labels found in its sleek store.

GIN & MILK

3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000 (1376). BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.fb.com/ginandmilkstore

NEXT TO NORMAL

1/F, Groove, CentralWorld, 999/9 Rama 1 Rd. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.fb.com/americanragbkk

Offering a selection of menswear from brands like Meticulous, Pattara and Pattric Boyle in a lavish, European-styled store, Gin and Milk is for the dapper man wanting to look his smartest. Specializing in dressy and vintage fashion, the store even has a tailor corner for anyone looking for custom-made suits without braving the shops along Sukhumvit Road.

SIWILAI

Complete your formal look with a colorful silk pocket square. Here are our favorites from Thai brands. By Vasachol Quadri

UNCENSORED

Lesser-known, up-and-coming designers with interesting profiles.

Room Beacon Zone, 2/F, CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 02-259-8619, 02-646-1448. BTS Chit Lom. Open Mon-Thu 10am-9pm; Fri-Sun 10am-10pm. www.uncensored-bangkok.com

1 Print pocket square (limited edition), Kamui Lim, B2,500 Available via tinyurl.com/nrqnn4s

2 Red polka dot pocket square, Meticulous, B950 Available at Gin & Milk, 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.fb.com/pmithofficial

3 The Hunter camouflage hand-sewn pocket square (limited edition), Kamui Lim, B2,500 Available via tinyurl.com/nrqnn4s

4 Print pocket square, Duly, B2,450 Available at Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-6647/8. BTS Phrom Phong. www.laladuly.co.th

5 Blue striped silk pocket square, Jim Thompson, B520 Available at 9 Surawong Rd., 02-632-8100. www.jimthompson.com

6 Feather print pocket square, P.Mith, B490

Room A106, 1/F, CentralWorld, 74/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-6461847. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.nexttonormalstore.com

Available at Gin & Milk, 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.fb.com/pmithofficial UNCENSORED

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BANGKOK

DINING NEW

FILLETS

This high-end restaurant offers some of the best Japanese seafood and steak in Bangkok. The fresh sushi and sashimi are cut from fish flown in directly from Tokyo’s Tsukiji Market, while the chunky cuts of wagyu beef come from Australia’s Darling Farm. The signature cocktail, The One in a Copper Glass, is an excellent mix of housemade ginger beer with rosemary-infused sochu. Prices aren’t cheap but the produce is top quality. Expect to be dining with a crowd of elegant locals. 3/F, Portico, 31 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-2607. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 6:30pm-midnight

Hot Spots SUNDAY BRUNCH DEALS

FOUR SEASONS SUNDAY BRUNCH

If food is your passion, this Sunday Brunch will not disappoint. A lavish selection of fine food is drawn from the hotel’s numerous restaurants. You’ll find Japanese, Indian, Italian and Thai all served in the Four Seasons’ beautiful open-air central courtyard. Special emphasis is put on luxury ingredients, whether it’s foie gras, seafood or premium beef. The price of B3,472 includes free-flow alcohol and soft drinks. 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-126-8866. BTS Ratchadamri. 11:30am-3pm

TRADER VIC’S ANANTARA RESORT & SPA

TRADER VIC’S, ANANTARA RESORT & SPA

Set by the river, Trader Vic’s has a relaxed yet lively atmosphere with stunning river views. Popular among both expats and well-to-do Thais, the Sunday Brunch offers Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Indian and Italian cuisines. There are several live cooking stations as well as a seafood corner offering fresh oysters, crabs and shrimps. B1,699 including Thai juices; B2,499 with free-flow cocktails, draught beer, house wines and sparkling wine; B3,399 with Champagne.

FOUR SEASONS SUNDAY BRUNCH

VOILA! SOFITEL BANGKOK SUKHUMVIT

The new Moët & Chandon Sunday features all-you-can eat Fin de Claire oysters, Alaskan king crab, razor clams, assorted prawns, rock lobster, foie gras, gravlax, smoked salmon, à-la-minute New Zealand snapper and braised Australian wagyu beef. As the name implies, there’s also free-flow Moët & Chandon Champagne. Be sure not to miss the silky lobster bisque served beneath a puff pastry dome. B4,750 per person with Champagne; B2,200 without. 2/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 13-15), 02-126-9999. BTS Asok. 12pm-3pm

Y SPOTLIGHT

257 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-476-0022. 11:30am-3pm

Soul Food Mahanakorn

Soul Food is strong on two fronts: it dishes out potent (double pours, actually) original signature cocktails like the Bun Bang Fai (a mix of tequila, lime, chili, almond syrup and egg white) as well as a brief menu of perfectly executed Thai regional dishes like khao mok kai, tamarind ribs and pad krapao made with Australian lamb. The combo has a heady, infectious effect on hip, beautiful people as the place is packed almost every night of the week. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 085-904-2691, 02714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-midnight

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BANGKOK

DINING

COLONNADE THE SUKHOTHAI

The lofty indoor restaurant at this luxurious hotel offers an impressive lineup not dissimilar to the Four Seasons, but the marginally cheaper price does not include free-flow alcohol. Standouts range from imported oysters and live lobster bisque to foie gras, and roasted wagyu prime rib. There’s also a solid selection of Thai dishes. B3,000 per person, including tea, coffee and soft drinks.

CHEF PICKS

Sathorn Rd., 02-344-8888. MRT Lumpini. 12-3pm

Chef Bruno Serre of Maison Blanche:

Chef Chatin Dienel of 661 Silom:

Chef Samita Dhanasobhon of Chikalicious:

This institution has been serving bouchon (Lyonnaise bistro food) for more than 20 years now. The restaurant is cozy and romantic, right in the heart of Patpong— a deep breath of pure French atmosphere. I recommend the lamb shank in white bean sauce. It’s simple but very well done: crisp and fondant. 37/17 Soi Patpong 2, Silom Rd., 02-234-9109. Open Mon-Sat noon-11pm. BTS Sala Daeng

Having lived in Australia, it was great to discover Opposite Mess Hall. The food there is unique. It’s the style that many chefs have adopted in Australia, in which European techniques are mixed with Asian ingredients, done right. The highlights include the steamed pork buns and duck waffles. They use local ingredients as much as they can, which I love, and the food is simple, beautiful and full of flavor. 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-6626330. Open Tue-Sun 6:30-11pm. BTS Thong Lo

They have very good food, great cocktails, wonderful service and a wide wine selection. My favorite dish is the cold pasta, which they mix with caviar and truffle oil. I love the scent of truffle oil with the balanced flavor of saltiness, sweetness and tanginess. 2/F, Chamchuri Square, Phaya Thai Rd. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-9:30pm. MRT Sam Yan

Le Bouchon

CHINA HOUSE

CHINA HOUSE, MANDARIN ORIENTAL

The Chinese restaurant of Bangkok’s oldest luxury hotel offers a buffet and dishes cooked a la minute. The large selection of dim sum covers fresh shrimp dumplings, black truffle xiao long bao and deep-fried shrimp wontons, while mains include honey-glazed snow fish and wok-fried grouper fillet. B1,272 per person for food only, it’s one of the bestpriced five-star hotel buffets in town.

Opposite Mess Hall

Water Library

48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. 11:30am-2:30pm

SIAMESE STYLE

Top fine-dining Thai restaurants

PASTE

BLUE ELEPHANT 233 Sathorn Tai Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak BO.LAN 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-2602962. Open Thu-Sun noon-2:30pm; TueSun 6-10:30pm. BTS Thong Lo NAHM G/F, Metropolitan Hotel, Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open daily 7-11pm; Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm. MRT Lumpini PASTE 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49 (opposite Samitivej Hospital), 02-392-4313. Open Wed-Sun noon-2:30pm; Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight RUEN URAI Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72. Open daily 1211pm. BTS Sala Daeng

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BANGKOK

NIGHTLIFE NEW

HOT ROD

Designer Ashley Sutton is famous in Bangkok for his whimsical, themed bars like the Dickensian Iron Fairies (nearby, on Sukhumvit Soi 55 [Thonglor]) and the 1930s Shanghai-inspired Maggie Choo’s (on Silom Rd.). His latest project, Hot Rod, is a small circular bar and restaurant dishing out a sophisticated menu of either creative or rare Thai dishes and elaborate cocktails to the dozen happy few who can get a seat. Prices are also some of the best in the area, especially given the quality of the drinks. Room A103, G/F, Park Lane, Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 02-714-2575. BTS Ekkamai. Open daily 6pm-midnight

Hot Spots JAZZ BARS

ROOFTOP BARS

JAZZ HAPPENS

This little jazz bar owned by Nu Vudthivichai, one of Thailand’s most prominent pianists, showcases the skills of a wide range of performers, from contestants on The Voice to students and graduates of Silpakorn Jazz Faculty. Order a bottle of Singha, some typical Thai snacks, and swing away. Phra Athit Rd., 02-282-9934. Open daily 7pm-1am

Where to get the best views of the city

BROWN SUGAR

Although this Langsuan mainstay has moved to more sophisticated digs on Phra Sumen Road, it still features the same list of Western comfort food and classic cocktails, while the stage is reserved for local jazz talents like Tissue Paper and Attention Please. 469 Phra Sumen Rd., 081 805 7759. Open daily 5pm-12:30am

JAZZ HAPPENS

SAXOPHONE

One of the city’s longest-standing music institutions, Saxophone may be best known for its jazzy offerings led by Koh Mr. Saxman. However, a dose of solid reggae can be had here too. Just swing by on Friday and stick around long (and late) enough for Thailand’s godfathers of reggae, T-Bone, to take to the stage (from midnight-1:30am).

TAMAYA JAZZ LIVE

Headed by the Italian-Japanese fusion specialist Chef Kouichi Hori, this bar features some creative food to go with the live music. Try the carbonara mentaiko or rustic pizzas as you watch talents both local and international such as Cherryl Hayes and Frank Hergott.

85 Nihonmura Mall, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-115-1697. Open daily 5pm-midnight

ABOVE ELEVEN

ABOVE ELEVEN 33/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Nana OCTAVE 45/F, Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02797-0000. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo

3/8 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-245-3592. Open daily 6pm2am. BTS Victory Monument

RED SKY 55/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-1001234. Open daily 5:30pm-1am. BTS Siam/Chit Lom TAMAYA JAZZ LIVE

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NIGHTLIFE

NIGHT CALL Our favorite nightclubs (Go around 10:30pm, they close around 2am)

JAZZ SUSHI BY SAXSOCIETY

Local jazz legend Koh Mr. Saxman owns this Japanese restaurant-cum-live-performance venue with a décor that’s a cut above the usual down-and-dirty jazz hangouts. He regularly brings in international performers, with a cover charge of B200 on certain nights.

Badmotel

Multiple stories of dance floors play everything from trap to chillout 46/12-13 Sukhumvit Soi 49, opposite Villa Supermarket

Regular alt DJ events, a big al fresco courtyard and ruggedet stylish decor make this restaurant-cum-club a hit with Bangkok’s hipsters. Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), between sois 15 and 17

Do Not Disturb

BADMOTEL

2/3 Silom Soi 19, 089-999-5157. Open daily 11am10pm. BTS Silom

Grease

One of Bangkok’s newest nightlife venues plays EDM in a space that blends Americana with cult Japanese references. Ekkamai Soi 7 Bangkok, behind Nunglen and Escobar.

Levels

SMALLS

This flashy club and lounge attracts beautiful singles with chart hip-hop and plenty of ladies’ night promos. 6/F, Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11. BTS Nana

This absinthe-swilling Suan Plu venue by David Jacobson, the founder of nightlife institution Q Bar, has just started doing regular Wednesday live jazz evenings featuring the likes of Space Jazz Trio+1 and the Dan Phillips Quartet. 186/3 Suan Plu Soi 1, 081-819-6808. MRT Lumpini

Glow An after-hours favorite thanks to very late (or should that be early?) opening hours and a rosta of international DJs. Go around 1am, closes around 3am. 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23

DO NOT DISTURB

Y SPOTLIGHT

Sugar Club

This new entertainment venue is the latest addition to Sukhumvit Soi 11’s vibrant nightlife scene. With its state-of-the-art lighting and sound systems, the club features nightly live music from its resident band Tonic and local and international DJs spinning hip-hop tunes to entertain the party crowds. The club is offering special promotions including free entry for ladies or B300 for three drinks all night on Sun-Thu and before midnight on Fri-Sat. For guys, it’s B200 for one drink and B500 for five drinks all night on Sun-Thu and before midnight on Fri-Sat. 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3248. Open daily from 10pm-2am. BTS Nana

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GUIDE TO

SUKHUMVIT 11 NIGHTCLUB A

NIGHTCLUB B WAX 08 2308 3246 www.waxbangkok.com www.facebook.com/WaxBangkok

Lose yourself in Wax’s hedonistic party space, which features truly opulent decor complete with gold sofas and ornate chandeliers. However, there’s substance as well as style with a state of the art sound system with top international and local DJs spinning cutting edge dance music to a sophisticated party crowd. Open bar Wednesday-Sunday from 10pm-midnight with free entrance.

08 2308 3246 www.levelsclub.com www.facebook.com/levelsclub

The popular nightlife venue located in the heart of Bangkok’s party scene, Levels Club & Lounge, promises an unforgettable partying experience. It offers a world-class audiovisual environment, a sizeable dance floor and features Bangkok’s hottest DJs. There are special weekly promotions like the Thursday’s TOO SEXY Ladies Night, where girls gets three free drinks before midnight. Open daily 9pm till late. On Nov 6, the club features guest DJ Deniz Koyu who will rock the floor with his famous track Tung and upbeat tunes. B500/ ticket including one drink. Check their website for a full listing of international DJs and promotions for the month of November.

NIGHTCLUB A Asoke Rd.

Petchaburi Soi 19

V CLUB

Petchaburi Rd.

LEVELS CLUB & LOUNGE

Soi 15

LIVE MUSIC B

SUGAR CLUB

Klong Saen Saep

082 308 3246 www.facebook.com/VClubBangkok

Soi 13

Probably the most cutting edge dance music venue on Soi 11, The newly reopened V Club is located inside Levels Club & Lounge. The venue has been totally revamped with all new décor, a state of the art “Pyramid” DJ booth and a brand new sound & lighting system that will keep party goers on their feet all night long. It features world-class local and international DJs spinning the freshest house sounds from Ibiza to Miami. V Club, has hosted some of the hottest names in the business such as D. Ramirez, M.A.N.D.Y., James Zabiela, Technasia, Richard Durand, Leeroy Thornhill (The Prodigy), Ramon Tapia and Riva Starr. Experience the all new V Club Wednesday thru Saturday from 10pm till late.

Soi 11

Soi 9

Soi 7/1

08 2308 3246 www.facebook.com/SugarClubBangkok

This brand new nightlife venue has been shaking up Soi 11 since its grand opening on Oct 1. Specializing in live bands and hip-hop, Sugar features outstanding local bands and DJs spinning the hottest hip-hop every night of the week. Sugar features a one of kind stage with the drummer floating overhead and a five-meter catwalk that puts the party crowd right in the middle of the action. All this plus a team of sexy Sugar dancers makes this venue the place to be on Sukhumvit Soi 11. It’s open to a large segment of party people that enjoy high quality entertainment but at great value, with B100 drinks, an open bar for only B500 and B999 bottles before midnight.

Soi 7 PUB F

Soi 5 THE KIWI 02 653 3144 thekiwibangkok.com/en www.facebook.com/TheKIWIBangkok

The Kiwi on Soi 8 is a long-time favorite with expats and visitors thanks to its welcoming pub atmosphere, and outdoor terrace - the perfect place to watch live sports. It also has a good reputation for delicious hearty meals from a pub breakfast to classic fish and chips. They also do a “Free BBQ” every Tuesday and a great roast dinner from noon every Sunday. Watch Live sports: NRL, AFL, EPL, F1 and many more.

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GUIDE TO

SUKHUMVIT 11 OUTDOOR TERRACE D

OUTDOOR LOUNGE C KAZBAR 02 651 3313 www.facebook.com/Kazbarbangkok

New to Soi 11, The Kazbar is an al fresco street-side Shisha lounge located at the entrance to the Prime 11 building. This “Oasis of 11” boasts a lounge vibe, an intriguing tapas menu, chilled tunes and reasonably priced ice cold beers and specialty cocktails. Open from 6pm till late every day.

Q BAR

PUB E

Sukhumvit Asok

Ratch

adap

hisek

082 308 3246 www.qbarbangkok.com www.facebook.com/QBarBangkok

Rd.

Soi 14

THE AUSTRALIAN PUB & BBQ

Soi 10 F

Nana

Soi 6

Soi 8

02 651 0800 www.theaustralianbangkok.com www.facebook.com/TheAussiePub

Rama 4 Rd.

Sukhumvit Rd.

Soi 12

Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Situated in the heart of Soi 11, “The Aussie,” as it’s known to locals, is a great spot for sports fans. In fact, they feature no less than 14 flat-screens and two projectors constantly showing live sports from around the world including the AFL and NRL. There’s also live music every day of the week, an impressive pub grub menu that includes specialties like Crocodile Kebabs and a chance to watch the world go by on the street-side terrace.

This well-known fixture on the nightlife scene has been running for over 14 years and was voted Best Bar in Bangkok by readers of leading city living publication BK Magazine. The nightlife institution welcomes international DJs from all over the world as well as Bangkok’s cream of the crop. Fresh from a recent renovation, you can now take advantage of special promotions every night of the week including a promotion on Sunday to Thursday, where B500 gets you free entrance and a free bar on standard drinks from 9pm to midnight. Open daily from 9pm till late.

LOUNGE BAR C

AZURA LOUNGE BAR 08 2308 3246 www.facebook.com/AzuraLoungebarBkk

LIVE MUSIC H BANGKOK BEAT 02 651 3919 www.thebangkokbeat.com www.facebook.com/bkkbeat

If live music, high energy and lots of friendly girls is your thing then Bangkok Beat is the place to party! Every night they have two bands playing the best in rock, R&B, pop, hip-hop, funk and classic hits all night long. With a laidback atmosphere, the two-story space has a sizeable dance floor and a regular happy hour with B95 drinks from 9pmmidnight from Sunday to Thursday and a ladies’ night every Tuesday. Open daily 9pm-late.

Sukhumvit Soi 11’s newest lounge bar Azura, which was inspired by the laid back style and ‘Azure’ blue seas of the Mediterranean, serves a wide selection of delicious Greek and Spanish tapas in a cool, relaxed outdoor setting. At the bar you’ll find unique and refreshing cocktails designed by expert mixologists, while worldclass DJs spin the perfect pre-club soundtrack. Get down there for the Sundowner Cocktail Buffet from 7-9pm.

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HEALTH + WELLNESS NEW

THE FIGHT LAB

With 310 square meters of space looking out onto Benjasiri Park, this martial arts gym isn’t your dingy underground fight club. It’s clean, its vast and it manages to feel welcoming to newbies, while having plenty of competitive cred for the aspiring champs out there. They offer training in Muay Thai, boxing, mixed martial arts (MMA), and Brazilian jiu-jitsu (submission grappling). Private training, small group training and regular classes available. On top of the boxing ring and MMA cage, there’s a juice bar and even a sports massage service. B650 for walk-ins, B1,000 for a full-day pass. 4/F, RSU Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 3, 02-262-0254. Open daily 7am-9pm. www.bangkokfightlab.com

Hot Spots THAI HERBAL COMPRESS MASSAGE

Designed by Tony Chi, this club-style spa is one of the most beautiful in Bangkok. The setting feels more like a jungle resort than a city spa. Its 7,000-sq-meter space features six residential spa cottages, nine treatment bungalows, a hair salon and a nail bar—not to mention a modern fitness center, squash and tennis courts plus a 25-meter pool. The spa offers Thai aromatherapy treatment which uses herbal compress to release stress and promote blood circulation. There are two packages: 90 minutes (B3,900) and 120 minutes (B4,500). 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 6am10pm.

PANPURI ORGANIC SPA

I.SAWAN

PANPURI ORGANIC SPA

BANYAN TREE SPA

AWAY SPA AT W HOTEL BANGKOK

W Hotel’s fondness for LED lights usually gives its restaurants and rooms a nightclub vibe. The effect at Away Spa is surprisingly relaxing. Beds glow softly in your choice of green, red, purple or pink, while the dim, labyrinthine halls induce an almost meditative mood. Other facilities include a sauna, steam room, Jacuzzi and VIP suite, as well as The Style Lab, which offers grooming, manicure and pedicure services. The 90-minute de compress treatment (B3,900) uses a warm herbal compress infused with numerous herbs like fresh tumeric, tamarind leaves, camphor granules and bergamot skin.

106 Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bang Rak, 02-344-4160. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 10am-10pm.

This high-end Thai spa specializes in organic aromatherapy and indulgent skincare products using traditional Thai and Southeast Asian ingredients. The perfectly formed space welcomes you in with black stone and gold mosaics and offers a wide range of treatments. Try the 90-minute Samruam Luk Pra Kob tranquility massage (B2,790), which uses a warm herbal compress to relax your muscles, followed by an aromatherapy massage.

Lobby/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1199. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-8pm. AWAY SPA

BANYAN TREE SPA

This luxurious five-star hotel spa offers premium Eastern-influenced treatments with a holistic approach combining natural herbs to the traditional massage therapy. It’s a spin-off of the renowned Banyan Tree Spa Phuket, home to the Banyan Tree Spa Academy, which has a high reputation for training the best spa therapists in the world. Try the 90-minute Herbal Remedy Treatment which deeply relaxes your muscles with the use of warm herbal compress and offers a refreshing finish with a facial massage. 21/F, Banyan Tree Hotel Bangkok, Thai Wah Tower II, Sathorn Rd., 02-679-1052/4. Open daily 9am-10pm.

Y SPOTLIGHT

Oasis Spa

Set a short distance from the bustling BTS Phrom Phong, this lovely spa lives up to its name. Oasis Spa sits in a Siamese-style building surrounded by a tropical garden complete with reflection pools. Consisting of 15 private treatment rooms, the spa offers Thai and Ayurvedic massage along with a wide range of herbal treatments. A must-try is the 2.5hour Siamese Therapeutic Wisdom (B4,600) which relieves acupressure points with the use of warm herbal compress and Thai herbal massage balm. 64 Soi Sawadee, Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-262-2122. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.oasisspa.net

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BANGKOK

PROPERTY

NOBLE PLOENCHIT NEW

With an expected completion date of January 2017, this high-rise condo by the Noble property group is a rare new residential development for one of Bangkok’s best shopping and dining neighborhoods (see Exploring, page 18). At 51 stories, the sleek minimalist tower is the tallest building in the area, situated in four rai (6,400 sq meters) of private gardens. Units range from 40-sq-meter studios to grand 245-sq-meter duplexes. The average price is B220,000 per sq meter. Sales office at 16/F, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 02251-9955. www.noblehome.com

Hot Spots BEACHSIDE CONDOMINIUMS

BAAN MAI KHAO BY SANSIRI

Sansiri’s new Baan Mai Khao project features six three-story buildings and three five-story buildings. Single bedroom units (62.5-71.5 sq meters) start from B8.3 milllion, while the massive 260-sq-meter penthouses (of which there are six) go for B53.3 million. Swanky? You bet. They’re describing the style as “modern Sino-Portuguese,” which means blocky modernist structures with touches of geometric motifs vaguely evocative of the kind of tiles you’d see in Phuket Town’s shop-houses. Stay fit even when the red flag is raised on the beach thanks to the 50-meter lap pool. Expected completion date: Aug 2015 081-538-6879, www.sansiri.com/condominium/ baanmaikhao_phuket

THE ENERGY HUA HIN

Love sports? Then this is the condo for you. Set on a 130-rai plot of land on Petchkasem Road, a 10-minute drive to Hua Hin, this massive project consists of a giant sports complex complete with squash, basketball, bowling and badminton facilities. It incorporates almost 6,000 residential units spread over 34 Euro-style buildings, with sizes ranging from 31-sq-meter one-bedrooms to 108-sq-meter two-beds with private Jacuzzis. Prices from B60,000-80,000 per sq meter. The beach is just 200 meters away, and the development also contains restaurants and shops. Expected completion Date: Dec 2014 02-253-5999, www.theenergy.co.th

ARISTO

Located a 15-minute walk to the beach (650 meters from Bangtao beach and 500 meters from Surin beach), the modern eightstory condominium is close to shops and restaurants but still quite peaceful as it’s surrounded by undeveloped mountains. There are 155 fully furnished units with sizes ranging from 27.7-157.3 sq meters. Rates start from B89,000 per sq meter for a one-bedroom unit. Rooms on the 6-8 floors come with ocean views, while all other units have swimming pool views thanks to the project’s three pools. On floors 6-8 is a stylish 157-sq-meter duplex, along with other direct pool-access units and a rooftop fitness center. Free shuttle bus service to Surin beach. Expected completion date: Dec 2016 076-386-503, www.thearistocondo.com

SUMMER HUA HIN

Located a short walk from the beach, this seven-story property by Sansiri goes for a quaint European village theme, and consists of 150 units ranging from 39-sq-meter one-bedrooms to a 74.5-sq-meter duplex with two bedrooms and two bathrooms. Facilities include a swimming pool, kids’ pool, fitness center, free Wi-Fi in public areas, 24-hour security with CCTV and nicely landscaped gardens. Prices from B79,000 per sq meter for a two-bedroom unit. The project is complete and ready to move in. 02-201-3999, www.sansiri.com/condominium/ summer_huahin

BAAN MAI KHAO BY SANSIRI

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ART+ ATTRACTIONS EXHIBITION

ALL ABOUT “Y” Minimalist furniture, art and sculpture come together at this exhibition by Thailandbased designers and sculptors Jean Jacques Argueyrolles and Yves Pintaud, whose work is exhibited alongside other young designers from Thailand and Taiwan. Golden Tortoise Gallery focuses on traditional or unusual pieces of furniture from East Asia, particularly Korea, Japan and China. As well as the antique collection of chests, bronzes and statues, the downtown gallery also exhibits high-quality reproduction pieces. Through Nov 30. Golden Tortoise Gallery, 100 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-5600. Open daily 10am6pm. www.antikasia.com

Hot Spots CONTEMPORARY THAI ART GALLERIES

100 TONSON

One of the foremost contemporary art galleries in Bangkok, 100 Tonson regularly welcomes such high-profile artists as Rirkrit Tiravanija. The gallery’s greatest pride is its ability to take Thai artists abroad, and it was the first Thai gallery to be present at Art Basel, in Switzerland. Located down a leafy side street, 100 Tonson’s beautiful, contemporary building was designed by renowned French designer Christian Liaigre. 100 Soi Tonson, Ploen Chit Rd., 02-684-1527. BTS Ratchadamri. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm.

MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART (MOCA)

This 18,000-sq-meter, five-story building in the North of Bangkok is Thailand’s biggest private museum and the country’s first significant permanent modern art collection open to the public. The works are nearly all post-1970s, and mostly post-1990s even, with plenty of realism and surrealism depicting rural life, religious Buddhist scenes or mythological motifs from the Ramayana. The highlight is the fourth floor’s four rooms dedicated to the late Thawan Duchanee, Thailand’s most renowned contemporary painter.

Room 499, Bejajinda Building, Wiphawadi-Rangsit Rd., 02-953-1111. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm.

MOCA

Y SPOTLIGHT

THE ADLER SUBHASHOK GALLERY

The Subhashok Art Center has joined forces with Parisian gallery Adler, becoming the Adler Subhashok Gallery. The gallery plans on taking Thai art global and developing the market the way China did 10 years ago. Contemporary international and local artists are usually combined in one exhibition under a single theme. You can expect big names, given Adler’s connections with artists like Helmut Newton and David LaChapelle. 160/3 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-662-0299. Open TueSun 10am-5pm; Sat-Sun 11am-6:30pm.

BACC

BANGKOK ART AND CULTURE CENTRE (BACC)

Kathmandu Photo Gallery

Set in the bustling Pratumwan area just across the road from Siam Square and MBK, BACC has become a popular hot-spot for the creative people of Bangkok. Aside from the contemporary art exhibitions, BACC also contains small, designcentric stores, ranging from cafés and restaurants to book shops. The top floor also boasts a movie theater, complete with a decent-sized stage for live performances.

Manit Sriwanichpoom’s two-floor gallery sits in a restored pre-war shop-house. Open since 2006, it’s still Bangkok’s preeminent photography gallery, with a focus on Thai society’s transformation and urbanization. Kathmandu also preserves and rediscovers the works of forgotten masters of Thai photography. Customers interested in acquiring one of Manit’s works can also browse them from a folder, just like in photo-art shops of days long past. It also includes a specialty bookstore focused on Hinduism and Shamanism.

939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630/-8. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm.

87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700. BTS Surasak. Open TueSun 11am-7pm.

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BANGKOK

NAVIGATE

Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The three main apps are Easy Taxi (www.easytaxi.com/th), Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok). All of these are in English language and charge a fee on top of the meter price.

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130. The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (klong) still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 NOVEMBER 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 33

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

7 1 Pretending to be a fisherman for a day in Bangkhuntian, a coastal fishing village on the outskirts of Bangkok. See page 10.

7 Drinking cocktails at an outdoor cactus garden balcony while listening to live music at the newly opened Do Not Disturb and Yukuu Yakiniku Bar. See page 27.

!2 Watching dramatic theater perfor- !7 Training in Muay Thai with a pro-

8 Cruising along the Chao Phraya River and enjoying the views of temples with evening light displays on the Manohra dinner cruise. See page 7.

!3 Viewing powerful red-and-black

mances at the charming Santichaprakan Park and the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre during Bangkok Theatre Festival 2014. See page 4.

2 Enjoying the stunning views of the Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun) while having Thai food and cocktails at Sala Rattanakosin, the stylish restaurant by the Chao Phraya River. See page 6.

contemporary paintings of late artist Thawan Duchanee at MOCA. See page 32.

festional coach at brand new gym The Fight Lab. See page 30.

!8 Trying the sophisticated Thai small plates and creative cocktails at Hot Rod, a new tapas bar. See page 26. !9 Drinking Southeast Asian-influenced cocktails while enjoying the

3 Enjoying a lazy Sunday brunch by 9 Relaxing your muscles with a !4 Tasting the authentic Royal Thai picturesque river scene at Sambal, the Chao Phraya River at Trader Vic’s. See page 14.

herbal compress massage at the luxurious Banyan Tree Spa Bangkok. See page 30.

4 Browsing for edgy designer goods at Siwilai, the spacious multi-brand lifestyle store at Central Embassy. See page 19.

@0 Listening to the talented students !0 Exploring Bangkok’s Sukhumvit !5 Admiring sculptors Jean Jacques and graduates of Silpakorn University’s

5 Listening to smooth jazz sounds performed by world famous saxophonist Kenny G at Asiatique, by the river. See page 4. 6 Exploring riverside culture on a bicycle with Grasshopper Adventures. See page 10.

sois 31 to 49, home to numerous art galleries, top restaurants and stylish coffee shops. See page 18.

Cuisine at the Blue Elephant, a finedining institution in a beautifully restored house. See page 25.

Argueyrolles and Yves Pintaud’s elegant contemporary woodwork sculptures at Golden Tortoise Gallery. See page 32.

the elegant riverside venue. See page 7.

Jazz Faculty at Jazz Happens. See page 26.

@1 Indulging in a herbal treatment

!1 Floating a traditional-style flower

at Oasis Spa, set in a Siamese-style

basket on the Chao Phraya River and watching spectacular firework displays during Loy Krathong. See page 4.

!6 Getting a deeper understsanding of building surrounded by a tropical garThai history and culture at the lectures organized by National Museum Volunteers at Museum Siam. See page 11.

den complete with reflection pools. See page 30.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

34 W H E R E T H AILAND I NO VEMB ER 2 0 1 4

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Where to find Hotels in Bangkok The AETAS Bangkok All Seasons Bangkok Siam Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11 Amari Watergate Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa Arnoma Baan Noppawong Bally’s Studio Suites Banyan Tree Bangkok Best Western Sukhumvit Cabochon Hotel & Residence Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Centara Grand at Central World Centara Hotels & Resorts Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok Conrad Bangkok Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Dusit Thani Bangkok Emporium Suites Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Four Points by Sheraton Four Seasons Bangkok GLOW Pratunam Grand Hyatt Erawan Grand Mercure Park Avenue Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Holiday Inn Silom Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 Hotel Muse Hua Chang Heritage Hotel Imperial Queens Park InterContinental Bangkok JW Marriott Bangkok King Power The Landmark Bangkok Le Fenix Sukhumvit Lebua LIT Bangkok Luxx Majestic Grande Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit 57

WHERE DISTRIBUTION LIST_Nov_2014.indd 35

Mercure & Ibis Bangkok Siam The Metropolitan Bangkok Millennium Hilton Miracle Grand Convention Montien Riverside Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit Sukhumvit Novotel Bangkok Siam Square Novotel Bangkok Impact Oaks Bangkok Sathorn The Okura Prestige Bangkok Park Plaza Sukhumvit Pathumwan Princess The Peninsula Bangkok Phachara Suites Plaza Athénée Bangkok Pullman Bangkok King Power Radisson Blu Plaza Radisson Suites Bangkok Ramada Encore Bangkok Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Riva Surya Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers Siam Kempinski Shangri-La Bangkok Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit The Berkeley Hotel The Continent Hotel Bangkok The Davis Bangkok The Eugenia Hotel & Spa The Siam Siam @ Siam Design Hotel & Spa Sivatel Bangkok Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit Sofitel So Bangkok The St. Regis Bangkok The Sukhothai Bangkok Swissotel Le Concorde Swissotel Nai Lert Park VIE Hotel Bangkok ViVa Garden W Hotel Bangkok The Westin Grande Sukhumvit

where Thailand

Hotels in other provinces

Shopping Malls

Anantara Rasananda Koh Phangan Villa Resort & Spa Chandara Resort Conrad Koh Samui Dara Samui Beach Resort & Spa Villa Dusit D2 Baraquda Pattaya InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort & Spa JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa Le Méridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa Renaissance Koh Samui Resort & Spa Renaissance Phuket Resort & Spa Samed Resorts Santiburi Resort Sheraton Krabi Sheraton HuaHin Resort & Spa Springfield Group Resort, Golf & Spa Tamarind Village Chiang Mai

CentralWorld The Emporium Department Complex Peninsula Plaza Siam Paragon The River City Shopping Complex

Serviced Apartments Adelphi Service Apartments Adelphi Suites Bangkok Ascott Sathorn Bangkok Asoke Residence Sukhumvit Cape House Serviced Apartments Courtyard Marriott Grand Mercure Bangkok Asoke Residence Marriott Executive Apartments Sathorn Vista Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park Mayfair Bangkok Marriott Executive Apartment Natural Ville Executive Residences, Bangkok Nonsri Residence Bangkok Oakwood Residence Sukhumvit 24 Oriental Residence Bangkok Somerset Lakeview Sukkhumvit 16 The River Condominium

Others TAT Tourist Information Counter at Suvarnabhumi Airport (arrivals) Chao Phraya Express Boat Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) Blue Elephant Restaurant Devarana Spa Elemis Spa at The St. Regis Bangkok The Kiwi Bangkok Sports Pub & Grill The Australian Pub & BBQ Angel City Diner Yunomori Onsen & Spa Pizza Romana Pala La Grande Perle Kuppadeli Ted’s Coffee Kalpapruek Jim Thomson Restaurant Viva & Aviv

Y Where reaches over 100,000 visitors each month. For sales enquiries, contact Sherry Maturose Kato at mkato@asia-city.co.th or call 02-624-9638.

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