Where® Thailand May-June 2017

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M AY- J U N E 2 0 1 7 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

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Drinking on Koh Samui Exploring Chinatown

HOT PLATES

LES CLEFS D’OR THAIL AND

THE PREFERRED PUBLICATION OF YOUR HOTEL CONCIERGE

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CONTENTS where

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l THAILAND l MAY-JUNE 2017

The Guide BANGKOK

20 NIGHTLIFE Check out the city's live jazz scene, from glamorous lounges to easy-going jam bars.

22 DINING

6

Make reservations at one of these cool Thai-inspired tapas restaurants.

TOP TABLES

24 SHOPS+SERVICES

The hottest restaurant openings in 2017

Head to Bangkok's busiest night markets and bazaars to find the perfect gifts for back home.

25 HEALTH+WELLNESS Play a round of golf at one of these spectacular courses.

AROUND THAILAND 10 SIPPED IN SAMUI

26 ATTRACTIONS

The island is awash in craft cocktails making use of locally-made rum.

Go-karts, trampolines and climbing walls for kids and teens needing to blow off some steam.

10

27 ART This month's must-visit exhibitions and galleries.

EXPLORING

28 NAVIGATE Essential tips on getting around.

14 PHLOEN CHIT Bangok’s most luxurious enclave is becoming an increasingly chill destination for a lazy brunch or a leisurely evening on a terrace.

ALSO INSIDE

16 CHINATOWN

4

This old neighborhood has become the epicenter of cool thanks to a raft of new openings in Soi Nana and beyond.

30 21 THINGS WE LOVE Where Thailand is proud to be an associated publication of the Thailand Chapter of Les Clefs d'Or (the International Concierge Association).

14 Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon

Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Designer Peeraya Sirathanisa, Anunya Chobnitas

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine

Staff Writer Bonnie Sananvatananont

Deputy Editor Carl Dixon

Contributors Natcha Saguankiattichai, Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

MVP | EXECUTIVE President Donna W. Kessler Vice President, Operations Angela E. Allen Chief Travel Editor Geoff Kohl General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Features Associate Monruedee Jansuttipan Marketing Executive Plaifon Chienvichai Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo

HOT DATES

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Intern Kawee Jarach, Pavisporn Potchana

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Vice President, National Sales Rick Mollineaux Director of Partnerships & National Digital Sales Bridget Cody National Sales Coordinator David Gately

MVP | MANUFACTURING & TECHNOLOGY Director of Manufacturing Donald Horton

E-Mails For Contacts: Firstname.Lastname@ Morris.Com

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, Room A, 100 North Sathorn Rd. Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

www.wherethailand.com

@where_thailand

Morris Comunications Chairman William S. Morris III President & Ceo William S. Morris IV Production Director of Production Kris Miller

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Senior Regional Editorial Director Margaret Martin Design Director Jane Frey

Photography Director Susan Strayer Creative Coordinator Beverly Mandelblatt E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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HOT DATES

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MAY 6

DARK ARTS The Creative District Gallery Hopping Night invites art lovers to spend the night flitting between art galleries in the Charoenkrung and Silom areas. Venues including Serindia Gallery, ATTA Gallery, Bridge Art Space, Jam Cafe, The Jam Factory, Number 1 Gallery, Kathmandu Gallery and MoST Gallery are set to stay open later than usual with special live music and discussions alongside the exhibitions. Various art galleries around Charoenkrung and Silom, www.fb.com/galleryhoppingbkk.

KATHMANDU GALLERY

MAY 19-21

JUN 3-4

JUN 23-25

JUN 24

Motorbike lovers won’t want to miss Rubbers Rebel Ground, a massive open-air fair showcasing all the latest from popular auto industries, plus a huge test-drive area to go for a spin yourself. A huge pop-up market will showcase trendy stalls selling fashion picks from local brands. Free entry.

The sixth edition of the music-focused flea market Noise Market makes its return this year under the concept “Precycle,” which encourages festival-goers to produce the least amount of trash possible. Expect performances from emerging local artists, film screenings, food trucks and stalls selling crafts, CDs and music-related paraphernalia, all set in the leafy surrounds of Museum Siam in the Old Town. Free entry.

One of the city’s coolest art initiatives, Hotel Art Fair, returns for its fourth year to gather the top artists, art galleries and emerging talent from around the country to transform the rooms of a hotel into its own little pop-up art space. Each participant gets assigned a hotel room, in which they are free to exhibit artworks in whatever form they choose, be it installations or canvas displays. Free entry.

American pop diva Britney Spears makes her long-awaited Bangkok debut as part of her world tour to promote her ninth studio album, Glory, promising performances of new hit singles like “Make Me…” through to ‘90s favorites like “Toxic” and “Oops…I Did it Again.” With this being the first time she’ll ever perform in Southeast Asia, we’re expecting something big. Tickets start at B3,500 from Thaiticketmajor.com

Volve Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-0001000.

Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd.

LIVE TO RIDE

Impact Lakeside Muangthong Thani

ROCK N’ SHOP

Museum Siam, 4 Sanam Chai Rd., 02225-2777

SUITE ONE MORE EXPRESSIONS TIME

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DINING

HOT PLATES

Make reservations if you want a table at Bangkok's most-buzzing new restaurants. SRI TRAT

BANGKOK BOLD COOKING STUDIO Located in the charming streets of Bangkok’s Old Town, this space offers a cooking school, gallery, co-working space and chef’s table, all rolled into one. To eat here, you must gather a group of 6-10 people in order for the chefs (all of whom come from impeccable Thai cuisine backgrounds including work at the internationally-praised Nahm) to walk you through seven courses of delicious traditional Thai food spanning amuse bouche, appetizers, three dishes to eat with rice and two desserts. 503 Phra Sumen Rd., 098-829-4310. Open daily 9am-10:45pm

CRYING THAIGER The people behind Bangkok's favorite burger truck, Daniel Thaiger, have opened a proper sit-down spin-off. Taking over an intimate wedge of space with an easy going get-to-know-the-table-next-to-you

vibe, the restaurant goes beyond burgers to include more protein-packed comfort food—spicy merguez sausage hot dogs, grilled pork chops doused in gorgonzola sauce, and juicy Australian tomahawk steak. To drink, try the Thaiger's Mezgroni (a twist on the negroni featuring mezcal). 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 097-052-8861. Open daily 5-11pm. BTS Thong Lo

FREEBIRD This polished operation comes from an all-star cast of restaurateurs who first made their mark in Singapore. Chic yet relaxed, on trend yet original, the restaurant sits in a mid-century modern house and introduces Bangkok to what it calls modern Australian cuisine. Get the 10-course tasting menu for a blend of Western and Asian cooking methods and umami-packed ingredients in dishes like organic sea urchin and sea grapes with whipped parmesan on dehydrated

flaxseed cracker, and slow-roasted ocean trout with wakame butter, trout roe and pennywort. 28 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-662-4936. Open Tue-Sun 5:30pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11am-3pm

GAA Chef Gaggan Anand, whose restaurant has been named the best in Asia three years in a row by the voters of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, invests in the talents of one of his former sous-chefs, Garima Arora, at this bright yellow restaurant directly opposite his own. Arora makes her mark with seasonal tasting menus (8 or 12 courses) that spotlight ingredients found in the coastal region between Thailand and India, while also going to pains to make as much produce as possible from scratch, whether it’s a rich splitpea miso paste or creamy house-made paneer cheese. 68/4 Soi Lang Suan , 091-419-2424. Open daily 6-midnight

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SUSHI ZO The low-key facade hides the latest entry into Bangkok’s 10-seater sushi counter big leagues. Sushi Zo comes from a restaurant first born in LA, where it now holds a Michelin star along with its sister venue in New York. In Bangkok, Hokkaido-born executive chef Toshi Onishi prepares 20-course dinners that aren’t afraid of straying from Edo-style sushi traditions. Produce is extraordinary, whether its fatty tuna delivered the morning of service from Tokyo, or striped horsemackerel that’s been alowed to marinate in the finest olive oil.

GAA

TORI TAMA

G/F, Athenee Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02-1688490. Open Tue-Sun 5:30pm-midnight

TORI TAMA

FREEBIRD

LA CASA NOSTRA The renovated house on leafy Soi Goethe sits peacefully in grounds that include a terrace where you can dine outdoors, lounge on a sofa or play a game of petanque. The chef, Nino Scognamillo, takes La Casa Nostra in a comforting direction with creations like grilled Sardinian pecorino cheese with eucalyptus honey and fresh figs, and paprika-spiced roasted octopus. The wine menu is touted as one of the best in town. 22 Sathorn Soi 1 Yaek 2 (Goethe), 02-287-2402. Open daily 11:30am-midnight. MRT Lumphini

LE COCHON BLANC Follow the big, bright neon sign for Sukhumvit’s sultry new smokehouse. All the cooking goes down around a massive outdoor grill pit where American chef Chandler Schultz prepares smoked pork ribs, hanger steak and even lobsters for a dining room that’s chic but informal—black paint, beautiful flamingo-adorned wallpaper, chandeliers and stylish collectibles. To

WILD & CO.

SUSHI ZO

go with all that grilled meat, don’t miss the delicious thick-cut fries cooked in dry-aged beef fat, or the margaritas. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-3814. Open daily 6pm-midnight

SRI TRAT This restaurant specializes in one of the lesser-known regions of Thai cuisine: the eastern provinces, especially Trat, where the owner's family comes from. The fish sauce, salted fish, sun-dried squid, chamuang leaves and shrimp paste all come from there. Taste it in the Eastern staple of moo chamuang (stewed pork belly with bitter leaves) and crab roe chili dip, as well as creative takes on the cuisine, like a chili dip version of moo chamuang in which the pork belly is replaced with minced pork. The setting—azure leather sofas, rich teak paneling, pop-art murals— is also a stunning blend of old and new.

Hidden behind two low-key entrances, the Tokyo-hailing yakitori restaurant sits adjacent to Ekkamai's newest sake bar Orihara Shoten. Sit on the sizable counter and see the chefs grilling all parts of a chicken, from neck, heart and liver to breast, wing, achilles tendon and tail. There are also other meat and vegetable skewers as well as salad, soup and rice bowls on offer. A long list of sake curated from the next door sake bar is available, too. 18, 18 Park Lane Sukhumvit Soi 63, 02-382-0141. Open Tue-Sun 6-11pm. BTS Ekkamai

WILD & CO. Amid a lush garden sit two glasshouses, one dedicated to a bar and the other a dining space where head chef Chatphon Thavornvanit focuses on hefty meat dishes, especially game. His rabbit comes bacon-wrapped with kidney, liver and greens dressed with rabbit jus, and sits alongside venison tenderloin, as well as smoked meat which he prepares in a big smoker you can see from the dining room. 31/3 Soi Farm Wattana, Rama 4 Rd., 087-9999948. Open Tue-Sun 5:30pm-1am

90 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-088-0968. Open Sun-Mon noon-11pm; Wed noon-11pm; Thu noon-11pm; Fri-Sat noon-1am MAY-JUNE 2017 I W HERE THA ILA N D 7

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NIGHTLIFE

DRINK UP

At the best new bars of 2017, you'll discover the city's trendsetting cocktails, top local brews and a buzzing atmosphere.

BA HAO Neon red Chinese letters and a do-nothing approach to shop-house restoration give this Chinatown bar the requisite look of old Hong Kong cool, complete with open frontage that spills onto the Yaowarat streets. The guys from The Never Ending Summer and Junker and Bar (two other Bangkok hot spots) created their signature cocktails. Opium sees a classic negroni spiked with ginseng and herbal liquor, while Five Rivers infuses the flavors of Chinese five spice into rum, Drambuie and Fernet Blanca. Don’t miss owner Tikhamporn Chuenkittivoravat’s duck wontons—she trained at the Mandarin Oriental hotel as a chef. 8 Soi Nana, Maitri Chit Rd. , 081-454-4959. Open TueSun 6pm-midnight. MRT Hua Lamphong

BREWSKI

BA HAO

The city’s newest beer bar offers 30th-floor views of Sukhumvit. Along with a free and easy party atmosphere, Brewski offers an international selection of beers in three glass sizes—100ml for tasting, 250ml for half pint, and 470ml for full pint—with choices ranging from American craft beers to Belgian classics. There’s also a decent selection of ciders (try the Zeffer Crisp Green Apple Cider from New Zealand) and Thai-style bar munchies like sai krok Isaan (Northeastern Thai pork sausages with fresh chilli, ginger and peanuts). 30/F, Radisson Blu Plaza, 486 Sukhumvit Soi 27, 02-3023333. Open daily 5pm-1am. BTS Asok

DIM DIM

BREWSKI

This candlelit, Chinese-themed cocktail bar exudes oriental cool through vintage tea boxes and rows of waving lucky cats. Bartenders whip drinks with Chinese twists like the Oolong Tea & Orange Sour, a twist on the whiskey sour made with oolong tea and orange peel-infused Wild Turkey 81 bourbon. Just as exciting is the house-infused chrysanthemum vodka—try it

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GOLDEN COIN TAPROOM

FOOJOHN

in a shot or a cocktail like the Chrysanthemum Vanilla Fizz (with vanilla syrup, lemon, egg white and soda, garnished with chrysanthemum, lemon and orange). Hungry? There are crispy Chinese pork platters and Hong Kong-style congee. 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-085-2788. Open Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1:30am

FOOJOHN Step inside this old shop-house and you’re transported to a retro Hong Kong diner like something out of In the Mood for Love— think warm lighting, carefully positioned mirrors, vintage mosaic tiles. Downstairs you’ll find a hip bistro serving cold cuts and crepes alongside wine. A prohibition era-themed cocktail bar sits upstairs, where French spirits are spotlighted in classic cocktails based on The Savoy Cocktail Book (first published back in 1930). 831 Charoenkrung Soi 31, 085-527-3511. MRT Hua Lamphong

GOLDEN COINS TAPROOM Following the closure of much-loved beer bar Let the Boy Die, its founder, local brewer Pipatnapon "Piek" Pumpo, is back with this new project. The six-tap craft beer bar exclusively serves strains of Piek's own Golden Coins beer. The bare-brick space in Ekamai Mall also dishes out pulled pork burgers, fish and chips and pork knuckle. Piek launched Golden Coins back in 2011, making it one of Bangkok's original craft beers. He gets

around Thailand's protectionist beer brewing laws by using Vietnam as a base then importing the beer back into Thailand. Ekamai Mall, Ekkamai Soi 10, 082-675-9673. Open daily 5pm-midnight

KU BAR Hidden far from sight in the Old Town, Ku Bar carries an alluring air of mystery. A dusty concrete staircase leads the way to a marble counter amid a decrepit room where Anupas "Kong" Premanuwat (who worked as a mixologist at New York’s acclaimed Angel’s Share), pours a monthly rotating cocktail menu that spotlights local ingredients plucked from the fresh market. Kong shows off fastidious attention to detail in the "10 Herb," which mixes jub liang herbal Thai tea with gin, honey, egg white, lime and burnt sugar. 3/F, 469 Phra Sumen Rd., 02-067-6731. Open Thu-Sun 7pm-midnight

ORIHARA SHOTEN Japanese salarymen in full suit and tie mix with a smattering of in-the-know locals at Ekkamai's new sake-specializing bar. With its wall-to-wall sake selection, cozy blond wood decor and decorative barrels, Orihara Shoten looks like something straight out of Japan. Two solid entry points include the Yuki no Bosha Yamahai Junmai, known for its smoky taste similar to whiskey, and the Kozaemon Junmai Ginjo, which has a slight sweetness. Easy listening jazz, with the odd Latin and

PAKALOLO

Japanese song provides the soundtrack. 18 Park Lane Sukhumvit Soi 63, 02-382-0131. Open Tue-Thu 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am; Sun 5pm-midnight. BTS Ekkamai

PAKALOLO The hip Ari neighborhood’s new Hawaiian cocktail bar is its most exciting new opening since we can’t remember. Pakalolo takes its Hawaiian theme, adds a dose of the Florida Keys and creates a look that says "cocktail hour at the coconut lodge" in a kitsch, winkwink kind of way. Don't miss drinking the Lilia for a hit of elderflower and thyme that goes right up your nose, along with pear vodka, gin and pink guava juice. Though the space screams "bar" louder than "restaurant," you can still have a proper fill with poke bowls and sushi rolls. Ari Soi 4, 02-075-0939. Open daily 5pm-midnight. BTS Ari

PIJIU BAR All dark woods, vintage signage and spare lighting, this Chinatown beer bar swings to the sounds of upbeat piano jazz while pouring craft beers like Los Locos Mexican lager and Tuatara Weiz Guy Hefeweizen at some of the best prices in town. In the fridge you’ll find beers from the top local craft brewers like Happy New Beer. Line your stomach with Chinese cold-cut platters, Sichuan chicken knuckles and dried goat meat. 16 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 081-839-2832. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight. MRT Hua Lamphong

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AROUND THAILAND

SAND BARS

Check out Koh Samui’s hot new mixologists, craft cocktail lounges and even a rum distillery, all pouring island spirit into every drink.

COCORUM

K

oh Samui’s party reputation may lag behind neighboring Koh Phangan with its internationally famous Full Moon Party, but the larger, more sophisticated of the two islands has styled itself as the Gulf of Thailand’s king of cocktail culture. Koh Samui has successfully crafted its own identity to offer something which other Thai island destinations can’t. As well as having some of the most-luxurious accommodation in the region, it also offers one of the most unique drinking experiences, from an island rum distillery set amid coconut groves, to specialist craft cocktail lounges pouring tonics to rival those found in Hong Kong and Singapore. The hottest bar on the island right now, Cocorum, specializes exclusively in rum and sits beside the beach at the luxurious Four Seasons Koh Samui hotel. In a calm, tropical setting, it serves nearly a hundred different rum labels—straight, as tasting flights or in delicious mixes

like Tiki Rum in Barrel, which is a mixed of white rum (Guyana’s El Dorado) and dark rum (Jamaica’s Appleton) aged for two months in an American white oak barrel—while paying a nod to the tropical beach bars of the Caribbean. “When I arrived in Samui three years ago, I missed the great bar scene we had in Bangkok,” says Reto Moser, director of food and beverage at Four Seasons Koh Samui. “But as the island evolves, there is demand for even greater quality, moving away from mass products towards unique spirits, handcrafted cocktails and pride in the cocktail profession.” To meet those new, higher standards, Four Seasons has worked with Proof & Company, a Singapore-based bar and spirits team which is responsible for a number of bars in this year’s inaugural World’s 50 Best Bars list—including the guide’s number one entry, 28 Hongkong Street. “The modern cocktail and spirits scene in Thailand is developing so quickly, much

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CAFE DE PIER

CORUM

COCOTAM

as we’ve seen in Singapore and Hong Kong over the past five years,” says Paul Gabie, CEO of Proof & Company. “Koh Samui is unique in that it has a slower pace than Phuket and attracts a wonderfully diverse group of travelers. These ingredients make it the perfect setting.” The location is truly tempting. Designed by Bill Bensley, the regional master of tropical-luxe architecture, the bar sits under a soaring beachside pavilion surrounded by coconut trees. While the setting is unmistakably Thai, it also brings to mind rum-making’s legacy on Caribbean sugarcane plantations. Discover more of Koh Samui’s cocktail scene by heading to the south-east of the island, where Magic Alambic Distillery K&S Rum doesn’t just pour rum; it makes it. Samui’s first rum distillery began life in 2003, taking up residence in an area where there used to be only palm trees. French couple Elisa and Michel Gabrel have now turned it into a destination in itself, where people come to sample their white rum in five unique flavors: lime, orange, coconut, pineapple and naturally sweetened with sugarcane. Another fast-growing trend worldwide is the important role mixologists play in conjuring up new flavors and creative drinks. And Samui isn’t short of that. The chic Library Koh Samui hotel introduced Chaweng Beach to its first true craft cocktail lounge when it opened Drink Gallery a couple of years back. “We tried to create a cocktail culture on Samui at a time when there was nowhere for people to have a casual, creative drink,” says Chutima Chitpitak, general manager of The Library. “It quickly became a must-check-in spot.”

Creative cocktails have also reached the ever-evolving Fisherman Village, Samui’s most-famous night spot for shopping and drinking. Cafe de Pier is a new player that has already earned itself a reputation for amazing drinks. Phacharaporn Nontakanan, the partner and bar manager who previously ran Bangkok’s popular Thai restaurant Baan Klang Nam, doesn’t take the role too seriously. “Our clients are just looking for a place to eat and drink with a great ambience,” she says. She provides that in the form of crafty cocktails like Vanilla Coffee-tini, which mixes vodka with a shot of espresso. She serves these delicious drinks alongside Thai dishes from a space right beside the sea which references fishermen’s rustic houses. Along the same road, you’ll find one of Samui’s other most checked-in spots for a sundowner, Coco Tam’s, where a large, stylish cabana hides a vast bar offering island-style cocktails and craft beers for guests to enjoy at candlelit tables on the sand. Nestled on the beach at Bo Phut, it’s a world away from the fast-paced party scene that rages long into the night along Chaweng Beach, allowing for visitors to Koh Samui who ask for a slower pace of island life to also get in on the nightlife action. “After all,” says Gabie, “guests who come to Koh Samui often stop off at one of the regional gateway cities first. There’s no doubt they expect the same modern drinking standards on the island that they can enjoy elsewhere.” Thanks to places like Cocorum, Magic Alambic and others, they can now find it.

ESSENTIALS Cafe de Pier 50 Moo 1, Fisherman Village, Bophut, 077-430-680.

Cocorum Four Seasons, 219 Moo 5, Angthong, 077-243- 000.

Coco Tam’s 99/1 Moo 1, Bophut, 087-592-7900.

Drink Gallery 14/1 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach, Bophut, 077-422-299.

Magic Alambic Distillery K&S 44/5 Moo 3, Namuang 7, 086-282-6230.

DRINK GALLERY

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HOT SPOTS

PHUKET

2017-2018 THE BEST NEW OPENINGS IN BANGKOK • CHIANG MAI • HUA HIN • KRABI • PHUKET • SAMUI

Don't miss your chance to be in the next edition of Hot Spots Thailand Out Sep 2017 Contact sales@asia-city.co.th, 02-624-9696

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MAY-JUNE 2017 | BANGKOK

OPEN HOUSE Giant book store, co-working space, collection of cafes, bars and restaurants—this huge development of a luxury shopping mall’s top floor is many things to many people. Designed by Japan-based architectural firm Klein Dytham Architecture, the same team who designed the Youtube and Google headquarters in Tokyo, the space flows from one creative nook to another, passing art exhibitions and crafty workshops. We like to pull up on the outdoor terrace and order a Negroni before logging onto the free Wi-Fi to catch up with home. 6/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-119-7777. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Sun-Thu 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat 10am-midnight.

OPEN HOUSE

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 14 PLOENCHIT

16 CHINATOWN

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EXPLORING

PHLOEN CHIT cramped shop packed to the rafters with bolts of cloth. But we like to get sartorial tips from Win, his son. Make sure you have enough time for several fittings. In the same plaza you’ll also find the cool men’s leather store 3 Zettino (098-664-9516). For more high-end shopping, visit the compact but very luxurious 4 Gaysorn (02656-1177) mall. As well as numerous luxury international fashion labels, you’ll find Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya and Zenithorial. Pick up locally crafted gifts from Jim Thompson, or indulge at 4 Panpuri Organic Spa (L/F, Gaysorn, 02-656-1199).

GAYSORN

DINING

SANEH JAAN Vaulted ceilings, rich vermillion-red accents and dining tables hewn from whole tree trunks create a majestic setting to indulge in refined Thai cuisine drawn from ancient recipes. Local food guru Torroong Jarungidanan, who has published two cookbooks and also writes a regular newspaper column, consulted for the menu, which packs powerfully flavored dishes like gai baan kua bai jan (free-range chicken stir-fried with wild basil) and gaeng ranjuan (shrimp-paste pork soup).

This is a very international area for dining. In fact, the only cuisine that’s thin on the ground is Thai food. For respite from Central Embassy’s boutiques, head to the beach club-style cabana at Siwilai City Club and partake in some tapas and cocktails (see page 20). Prefer Italian? 5 Lenzi’s is run by a Tuscan who serves coldcuts imported directly from his family’s farm back in Italy. Sticking to fine dining, 6 Yamazato

!1 Glasshouse at Sindhorn, 130-132 Wireless Rd., 02-650-9880. Open daily 6-10pm

The very upscale Phloen Chit neighborhood is Bangkok’s answer to Ginza, where gleaming skyscrapers meet with residential side streets. But for every luxury boutique and fine-dining restaurant, you’ll also find a casual wine bar or neighborhood cafe with more down-to-earth appeal.

fashion brands, including Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin and Jil Sander. For something more unique, check out 1 Alexander

sixth floor, where Open House offers beautiful books, workshops and great food (see page 13). Nearby, on a leafy side-street, 2 100 Tonson GIANNI RISTORANTE

SHOPPING & GALLERIES

1 Central Embassy (1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-119-7777) dedicates eight floors to retail shops from some of the world’s most exciting

CENTRAL EMBASSY

100 TONSON

Lamont (2/F, Central Embassy, 02160-5772), who creates beautiful decorative objects which draw on both European and Asian (see page 9). The luxurious materials, from bronze to stingray skin, are handcrafted by a team of skilled artisans working from Bangkok to create pieces that are both and meaningful. The exciting stuff takes place on its

VUUDH

(100 Soi Tonson, 02-684-1527) is located in a beautiful building designed by renowned French designer Christian Liaigre, and regularly welcomes such high-profile artists as Rirkrit Tiravanija. For a genuinely good Bangkok tailoring experience, stop by 3 Pinky Tailor (Mahatun Plaza Arcade, 02-252-9680). The patriarch, Pinky, still rules over his

(24/F, The Okura Prestige, 02-6879000) is one of Bangkok’s most luxurious Japanese restaurants, serving grand 6-8 course kaiseki dinners. On a more casual tip, the Mexican 3 La Monita Taqueria (Mahatun Plaza, 888/25-26 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-650-9581) does hands-down

YAMAZATO

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EXPLORING

PHLOEN CHIT the best quesadilla and fish taco in town, while 7 Pizza Massilia (15/1 Soi Ruam Ruedi, 02-651-5091) is Bangkokians’ answer to authentic wood-fire pizza. For a truly upscale Thai dining experience, book a table at either 8 Saneh Jaan (see highlight) or 4 Paste (see spotlight),

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OGU OGU

PIZZA MASSILIA

but make it for the 5-7pm happy hour to enjoy some fun sake tasting flights. For the most buzzing rooftop views in the neighborhood, head up to !0 Char (25-26/F, Hotel Indigo, 81 Wireless Rd.), which stand 25 stories above the same street as the U.S. Embassy.

Paste

which specializes in heritage recipes, especially curry.

Two of Bangkok’s most highly-regarded modern chefs, Bongkoch Satongun and Jason Bailey, have joined forces with the aristocratic Snidwongse family, descendants of Rama II, to open this second branch of Paste. Its specialty is recipes from the Snidwongse’ ancient cook books, with a particular emphasis on curries. Try the massaman lamb curry of crispy young durian, coconut apple and Thai cardomom.

NIGHTLIFE

6 Ogu Ogu (G/F, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 02-108-2255) dubs itself a sake bar and takes no little inspiration from New York. The space is all about hanging wires, lamps, wooden partitions and some patterned chairs. The food isn’t too authentic,

4 3/F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-1003. Open daily noon-2pm, 6:3011pm. BTS Chit Lom

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1 Central Embassy - Alexander Lamont - Vuudh - Siwilai Cafe 2 100 Tonson 3 Mahatun Plaza - Pinky Tailor - Zettino - La Monita Taqueria 4 Gaysorn - Panpuri Organic Spa - Paste 5 Lenzi’s 6 Park Ventures / Okura Hotel - Yamazato - Ogu Ogu 7 Pizza Massilia 8 Osha 9 Hyde and Seek !0 Char !1 Saneh Jaan

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EXPLORING

CHINATOWN Y CHINATOWN’S TOP

STREET-FOOD STALLS

!4 Guay Tiew Kua Gai This gem, very well-known among locals, is hidden in a tiny alley and run by an old couple who have been serving one of the best guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken) for decades. Yaowarat Soi 6. Open Wed-Mon 7pm-1am

!5 Pa Jin Cockle Soi Texas Located in the middle of Soi Texas, this place has specialized in boiled cockles and mussels for over 35 years.

TEP BAR Located in the crumbling streets of the up-and-coming Charoenkrung area, this restored shop-house has plenty of raw appeal, emphasized with mood lighting and simple wooden tables. Here, you’ll find potent cocktails mixed with Thai fruits, herbs and spices. There’s also a good line of home-infused ya dong (Thai herbal whiskey) as well as a kitchen specializing in Thai tapas (and a few classics like pad Thai). Come nightfall, enjoy your meal while Thai musicians take the stage to play traditional music from the Central region.

Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd., 081-795-1839. Open daily Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1am, Sun 5pm-1am

!2 69-71 Soi Nana, 098-467-2944. Open Tue-Thu 5pm-midnight; Sun 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat 5pm-1am. MRT Hua Lamphong

C

hinatown used to be all about eating at the most time-worn restaurants in Bangkok and walking through moody, crumbling streets where traditional Sino-Thai home life spills into public sight. That’s all still there, but so are a cluster of the coolest new cocktail bars and galleries in town, attracting to the area a young, local and arty crowd with craft brews and vibrant live sounds.

SEE & DO Although many generations have passed since Chinese immigrants first moved to the area, Taoist culture still remains strong in Chinatown, giving this part of town a rich and unique atmosphere. Using life-size models and audiovisual displays, the 1 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-623-3329) details the history of Chinese migration to Thailand, as well as how the area now known as Chinatown began. 2 Wat Traimit (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-225-9775) is not to be missed, home to the world’s biggest seated Golden Buddha, which also happens to be the largest gold statue in the world. Built in the 14th century, it remains very sacred and is a popular site

WAT TRAIMIT

for locals during religious holidays. Nearby, you’ll find 3 Wat Mongkhon Kamalawat (Mangkorn Rd., 02-2223975), which combines Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian figures. A lot of devout Buddhist locals tend to practice here, so be sure to respect them as they perform their religious rituals. For a more tourist-friendly experience,

head to the colorful old Chinese Buddhist shrines at 4 Li Thi Miew (494 Plapphlachai Rd., 02-221-6985), where you’ll be welcomed with your camera at the ready—so long as you wear appropriate clothing. The most picturesque shrine in the area has to be 5 Guan Yin Shrine (600 Yaowarat Rd., 02-237-2191), where a classically ornate Chinese building houses a 900-year-old statue of the Mahayana Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. Yaowarat is also known as a hub for gold trade. 6 Tang Toh Kang (Soi Vanit 1, 02224-2422) gold shop dates back to the early 1900s and the reign of King Rama VI. Today, the seven-story late colonial-style building is still owned by its founding family, and in 2002 underwent a major renovation. Although the shop still deals gold on a day-to-day basis, a section has also been converted into a museum for the public. Be sure to call ahead one day in advance as they don’t allow walk-in visitors for security reasons.

!6 Kuay Jub Nai Ek This place is known for its kuay jub, a hot dish composed of rolled noodles with crispy pork belly, blood and intestines served in peppery soup. Yaowarat Rd., corner of soi 11. Open daily 7pm-late

!7 T&K Seafood and

R&L Seafood

Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are known for their fresh seafood dishes at reasonable prices. Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd. Open daily 6pm-1am

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EXPLORING

CHINATOWN EAT Dining in Chinatown is all about old-school shop-house restaurants that have stood in the same spot for 80 years or more. 7 Yim Yim (89 Yaowaphanit Rd., 02-224-2203) is a venerable institution in Yaowarat’s rich dining scene—which is to say it’s some of the best Chinese food you’ll get in Bangkok, despite the gloomy decor. On a similar note, don’t be discouraged by the rats and cockroaches in the alleyway leading to 8 Jok’s Kitchen (23 Soi Isara Nuphap, 02-221-4075), a small, menu-less establishment known as one of the hottest seats in town. Chef Jok present the likes of steamed bass in soy sauce and fried rice with crabmeat to a packed dining room every night. While Yaowarat is known for its Chinese food, the adjoining Pahurat is home to a sizable Indian community, and 9 Royal India (392/1 Chakkaphet Rd., 02-221-6565) is simply one of the best places in town for good Punjabi recipes. Turn on your heels, because here they cook in true Indian grandmother style— plenty of cream and ghee. The area’s old-school tea and coffee houses are

also not to be missed. The 87-yearold !0 Eiah-Sae (1-103 Yaowarat Rd., 081-868-9891) serves coffee laced with condensed milk alongside charming snacks like custard on toast, soft-boiled eggs and toast with butter, jam or chocolate spread, all charged at rock-bottom prices. EL CHIRINGUITO

DRINK

EIAH-SAE

!1 Double Dogs, (406 Yaowarat Rd., 086-329-3075) meanwhile, specializes in potent, properly brewed teas from across the region. Looking for something a little more modern? Head to the 100-year-old shophouses home to !8 80/20, a Thai restaurant that serves up contemporary dishes with 80 percent of the ingredients sourced locally (see page 22).

A recent wave of new bars have been converting old shop-houses in the area. !2 El Chiringuito (221 Soi Nana, 086-340-4791) has a charming retro ambience courtesy of reclaimed wooden furniture and old posters. The kitchen rolls out dishes like tortilla de patatas (omelet), patatas bravas (fried potatoes) and bocadillos (sandwiches). Wash it down with a Spanish Xoriguer gin. Just round the corner you’ll find one of the coolest craft cocktail lounges in town, !2 Teens of Thailand (76 Soi Nana, 081-443-3784), where a collection of artsists, party organizers and photographers gather to sip on gin-heavy drinks. On the same street, !2 23 Bar and Gallery (92 Soi Nana,

086-264-4471) has a no-frills atmosphere, and a soundtrack that flits between ‘90s Britpop and reggae, while !2 Tep Bar (see opposite) dishes out heritage Thai food, drinks and music to a hip local crowd. For more drinks with a twist, head to !2 Ba Hao (8 Soi Nana), a laid-back Chinese-themed bar whose signature cocktails are infused with herbs like ginseng and five spice. Or head up to the 25th floor of the !3 Grand China Hotel (215 Yaowarat Rd., 02-224-9977), where a revolving restaurant and bar offers 360-degree views of Chinatown and the river.

BA HAO

1 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center 2 Wat Traimit 3 Wat Mongkhon Kamalawat 4 Li Thi Miew 5 Guan Yin Shrine 6 Tang Toh Kang 7 Yim Yim 8 Jok’s Kitchen 9 Royal India !0 Eiah-Sae !1 Double Dogs !2 Soi Nana - El Chiringuito - Teens of Thailand - 23 Bar and Gallery - Tep Bar - Ba Hao !3 Grand China Hotel !4 Guy Tiew Kua Gai !5 Pa Jin Cockle Soi Texas !6 Kuay Jub Nai Ek !7 T&K Seafood and R&L Seafood !8 80/20

GETTING THERE

Reaching Chinatown is easy. Simply take the MRT (underground train) to Hua Lamphong station and head to Exit 1. Follow the road over a footbridge that crosses the canal and you’ll be at the doorway to the area. See page 32 for a general map of Bangkok.

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ThewhereGuide MAY-JUNE 2017 | BANGKOK

WAREHOUSE 30 Opening Jun 1, four thousand square meters of abandoned World War 2-era warehouses in Charoenkrung Soi 30 will be reborn as a collection of edgy cafes, galleries and boutiques. A Thai architect’s minimalist fashion brand Lonely Two Legged Creatures has its flagship store and studio there. Craft cocktails, organic juices and artisanal coffee are on hand for the weary, while those ready to brave the heat can explore an open market packed with fresh flowers, home decor and a motorbike enthusiasts’ accessories store called 8080Rubber. There’s even a cinema, book store and art exhibition space. 48-58 Charoenkrung Soi 30, 061-926-2699 or 084-364-8289

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 20 NIGHTLIFE 22 DINING

24 SHOP 25 HEALTH & WELLNESS

26 ATTRACTIONS 27 ART

28 NAVIGATE

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LOOK OUT FOR A COPY OF

Available at leading hotels throughout Thailand

The Essential Annual Guide to the Kingdom For more information please contact marketing@asia-city.co.th or call 02-624-9662

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NIGHTLIFE NEW

SIWILAI CITY CLUB

The huge outdoor deck at this new complex of restaurants comes alive at night with a live band and Bangkok’s beautiful and well-dressed, who can be found lounging in the beach club-style cabanas sipping on spirit-forward cocktails and Champagne. Peckish? They’ve got a trendy line of tapas, too, from roast bone marrow and crispy chicken skin to mackerel crudo and anchovy toast. 5/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1197777. Open Sun-Thu 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat 10ammidnight. BTS Phloen Chit

Hot Spots

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HIGH-END JAZZ LOUNGES

BAMBOO BAR

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The Mandarin Oriental’s bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. It’s also one of the coolest, thanks to a decadently atmospheric interior that manages to pull off leopard print and bamboo furniture with astonishingly tasteful flair. Singers take the mic at 9pm daily, accompanied by music from a baby grand and surrounded by framed portraits of jazz legends. Then there’s the head barman, who cut his teeth in the sacred cocktail-making ground of London’s Artesian bar. 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoenkrung Soi 40 (Oriental Ave.), 02-659-9000. Open Sun-Thu 5pm1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. BTS Saphan Taksin DIPLOMAT

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DIPLOMAT

As the name suggests, this bar in the luxurious Conrad hotel is a puff-yourcigar-and-strike-a-deal sort of a place. You’ll find the corporate (and diplomatic) types flock to the venue in their suits, sipping their cognacs and tapping their feet to some live jazz. It just oozes class, comfort and a certain bygone style. They’ve also got your late night hunger covered with a range of hot and cold snacks, from roasted snow fish to chicken/pork satay. Conrad Hotel, 87 Wireless Rd., 02-690-9999. Open Sun-Thu 10-1am; Fri-Sat 10-2am BAMBOO BAR

Smalls This laidback, late-night bar is split over three rickety levels of an old corner townhouse where the owner’s prized collection of contemporary art matches with a hands-off approach to restoration. Book in advance if you want to nab a seat with a view on the rooftop terrace. Or head downstairs to knock back shots of absinthe (the house specialty) and mingle with a hard-drinking after-work crowd of expats and locals. 186/3 Suanphlu Soi 1, 095-585-1398. Open Wed-Sun 7pm-2am; Mon 7pm-2am

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE AWARD-WINING COCKTAILS

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ST. REGIS BAR

Unimpinged views of the Royal Bangkok Sports club, white-blazered barmen and deep wingback chairs make this the kind of luxury hotel bar from the movies. As is the way with all St Regis hotels, bloody marys play a large part on the menu, but so do the kind of spirit-forward negronis and sazeracs you’d find at a hip craft cocktail joint. Local jazz and blues acts provide a lively—if loud—dose of color.

12/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7801. Open daily 9-1am. BTS Ratchadamri

THE LIVING ROOM BANGKOK

HAVANA SOCIAL

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Backstage Bar This Broadway-burlesque space on the lobby floor of a theater-themed hotel pours drinks courtesy of a Diageo World Class cocktail comp finalist. Amid Louis XIV-style velvet sofas and a liquor shelf surrounded by backstage mirrors, sup on things like Earthbeet, an earthy and woody drink with a beetroot-infused tequila base mixed with sweet vermouth, Campari, Cynar (artichoke liqueur) and mezcal, garnished with a slice of beetroot and torched liquorice. Got the munchies? Kha-kai (salty crispy bread sticks) are complimentary.

THE LIVING ROOM

With regular international guests of the highes caliber, this hotel bar is one of the most serious jazz institutions in town. Comfy leather couches (pick a spot furthest from the speaker) and an extensive list of red and white wine make this a favorite hangout of business execs who like nothing more than a stiff drink and some smooth music. Live jazz plays day and night, both from big local names and international guests. There’s also a free-flow drinks deal for B1,200 from 8pm-midnight. ST. REGIS BAR

Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-6498353. Open daily 9am-midnight. BTS Asok

L/F, Playhaus Thonglor, 205/22-23 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-712-5747. Open daily 6pm-1am

Bronx Liquid Parlour Behind a set of industrial, steel-rimmed glass doors and a rich velvet curtain sits this sultry den of high-class cocktail cliches from Japanese bartender Hidekuyi Saito. Our top picks include "Sei"—a deliciously rich blend of Bacardi Ocho, umeshu (plum wine), cacao, port wine, molasses and matcha, with a side treat of housemade rum yokan (Japanese dessert jelly)—and "The Butter", which sees the classic Sazerac mix of absinthe, cognac and American whiskey infused with melted butter. Thonglor Soi 25, 02-036-6071. Open TueSun 7pm-2am

Vertigo Too Sixty levels above Sathorn Road, Banyan Tree's Vertigo Too is a tapas-and-cocktail bar where Hawaii-native barman Mitchel Kai has put his stamp on the regional cocktail competition scene with The Haole—a Bacardi Legacy-winning mix of white rum, white vermouth, lemon juice and pineapple syrup topped with ginger ale. Away from the drinks, expect an eclectic menu filled with both Western and Thai classic dishes, all to be enjoyed alongside the daily live music performances.

Don't miss your chance to be in the next edition of Where Guestbook Out Nov 2017 Contact sales@asia-city.co.th, 02-624-9696

60/F, Banyan Tree, 100 Sathorn Rd., 02679-1200. Open daily 5pm-1am

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DINING NEW

WONDERWALL

Coffee doesn’t get much better than sipping a long black in this light-filled space in a leafy alley off of Sukhumvit Road. They do their own coffee blend, a generously glazed carrot cake and French toast topped with fresh fruits. The slow bar even features selected rotating beans from roasters in Japan, Australia and Hong Kong. The decor is equally impeccable: blond wood, white tiles and gorgeous light fixtures. A Square, 120 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 099-424-6592. Open daily 9am-6pm

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Hot Spots

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HIP THAI EATERIES

80/20

At this Charoenkrung hot spot in industrial-style shop houses, executive chef Napol Jantraget and his Canadian accomplice Andrew Martin use local ingredients and made-from-scratch elements for a daringly different take on Thai cuisine. The lamb tartare is a complex medley of herbs and spicy Northeastern Thai dressing, while the teasmoked duck breast with charred young pumpkin and pumpkin puree is further proof fusion is no longer a dirty word. The desserts by Saki Hoshino (try the warm molten chocolate with chili ice cream) and cocktails are equally on-point. 1052-1054 Charoenkrung Rd., 087-593-1936, 02-639-1135. Open Wed-Sun 6pm-midnight; Mon 6pm-midnight

2

Blue Elephant

SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN

This self-described “Thai-style izakaya” is perenially popular for its dressed-up street food and potent cocktails. In the past year, this winning formula has expanded down the road with fusion-focused spin-off Soul Food 555 and even a branch in Hong Kong. Here at the original the flavors are authentic enough to appease the snobbiest of Thai taste buds with thoughtful flourishes keeping things exciting: think housemade watermelon rind pickles with the Hat Yai-style fried chicken, or the smoky bacon garnish on the grilled eggplant salad.

The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts. Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavor. The elaborately decorated, century-old house is a fitting background to the ancient palace recipes that make up the menu. It is also home to one of the best cooking schools in town. 233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak

SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN

56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. Open daily 5:30pm-midnight. BTS Thong Lo 80/20

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GUIDE

DINING WHAT’S HAPPENING TO BANGKOK’S STREET FOOD?

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Chef couple Duangporn Songvisava and Dylan Jones of Thai fine-dining institution Bo.lan here cook up traditional Thai pub and street-side grub. The execution and produce quality is anything but pedestrian, though, be it homemade sausages from Isaan and Chiang Rai, a simple bowl of green mango macerated in fish sauce and chili powder, braised mussels in a clay pot or pla som (garlic- and jasmine rice-cured ocean fish). 394/35 Maharaj Rd., 02-622-2291. Open Tue-Sun 11am-10pm

as for a romantic dinner date. The quality of produce means that dishes as simple as cabbage in fish sauce taste sublime. 160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7508. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm

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TEP BAR

This restored shop-house has plenty of raw appeal, and specializes in potent cocktails mixed with Thai fruits, herbs and spices. There’s also a good line of home-infused ya dong (Thai herbal whiskey) as well as a kitchen dishing out Thai tapas (as well as a few classics like pad Thai). Come nightfall, enjoy your meal while Thai musicians take the stage to play traditional music from the Central region.

69-71 Soi Nana, 098-467-2944. Open Tue-Thu 5pmmidnight; Sun 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat 5pm-1am. MRT Hua Lamphong

CHINATOWN

Bangkok street food has been making big headlines around the world for two reasons recently: firstly, because CNN named the city its street-food capital of the world, and secondly, because the city hall announced it would be banned. While it’s true that street food is being cleared out of large parts of the city, there still exist plenty of places where you can tuck into delicious roadside flavors. Our advice is to lead to Chinatown (also known as Yaowarat Road), walking distance from MRT Hua Lamphong and lined with delicious foodie discoveries.

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SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

Without resorting to any trendy tweaks, the Trat-meets-Isaan dishes of this elegant bistro have captured the hearts and stomachs of Bangkok foodies. Delicate flavors with powerful claims of authenticity come served in a space that’s grown-up and convivial, as comfortable for lunch with friends-

TEP BAR

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SHOPS+SERVICES PUR.SUIT This section of Siam Discovery stocks semi-formal menswear by Thai designers: Oxford shirts, suits, tuxes and accessories. Highlight brands include Mr. Painkiller from local favorite Painkiller; suits and tuxes from P.Mith Black Label; and our beloved formerly-online-only men’s basics specialist Wardrobe Ministry, which offers its full line of Oxfords, trousers and tees. But wait, there’s more—the ready-towear shirt line from tailor Vvon Sugunnasil, Greyhound’s men’s collection, accessories from Rams and the pocket square collection from Ston Tantraporn, Byston. Thankfully, most prices remain reasonable. M/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam

Hot Spots BEST MARKETS

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4

CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET

This vintage market is home to small stalls selling all sorts of retro bric-abrac, from antique toys and vinyl to secondhand clothes and cameras. There are also plenty of vintage-inspired bars and cafes. To reach it, take the BTS to Udomsuk and then take a taxi. Don’t be put off if all you see on arrival is plastic junk—the best finds are at the back of the market.

Chatuchak weekend market can be a daunting shopping experience. The sprawling web of 15,000 stalls is one of the world’s largest markets, spread over 70-rai plot of land. You’ll find anything from food, furniture, books, plants, clothes, antiques to puppies and exotic pets. Section 3, just outside the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station, is the most design-forward part of the market, home to both established and up-and-coming Thai artists. Next to Chatuchak Park, Kamphaeng Phet Rd. Open SatSun 9am-6pm. MRT Kamphaeng Phet/BTS Mo Chit

TALAD ROD FAI

GREEN VINTAGE NIGHT MARKET

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Sri Nakarin Soi 51, 081-827-5885. Open Thu-Sun 5pm-1am

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ROD FAI MARKET (RATCHADA)

Antique toys, neon-lit beers signs, vintage fashion and retro furniture line the streets of this popular night market. The street eats are also endless, spanning all kinds of spicy salads to old-school, manually-pumped sodas and traditional Thai-style coffee and boozier offerings. Local indie artists regularly make apperances too, drawing a weekend crowd that can be pretty intense.

Parking lot of Esplanade Complex, 99 Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-591-3777. Open Thu-Sun 5pm-1am

JIM THOMPSON

CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET

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GREEN VINTAGE NIGHT MARKET

Just a stone’s throw from Chatuchak Weekend Market, this impressively funky space blends a low-key selection of fashionable clothing stalls and rows of industrial-slash-retro drinking parlors. Expect a down-to-earth crowd rummaging through keepsakes such as fashion items, antiques and home decor. For ‘80s and ‘90s kids, there are lots of old-school toys like Tamagotchi and Nintendo devices. 3 Kamphaeng Phet Rd., 092-461-5951. Open Thu-Sun 5pm-midnight

TALAD ROD FAI

The original, main store of this pioneering Thai silk brand stocks clothes and accessories across its significant three floors. The space is classic and palatial, paneled with teak from wall to wall, and shows off a range of elegant silks, from pillowcases and scarves to clubby neckties. A newly opened decor section offers a tantalizing array of exotic prints amid inspiring decor. There are other branches at Jim Thompson House (a must-visit within walking distance of BTS National Stadium) as well as various malls and five-star hotels around Bangkok. 9 Surawong Rd., 02-632-8100. Open daily 9am-9pm. BTS Sala Daeng

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HEALTH + WELLNESS NEW

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CLIMB CENTRAL

Bangkok just welcomed its most ambitious rock climbing gym yet, thanks to the same team who are behind Manila and Singapore’s Climb Central branches. Sitting in a lofty warehouse out on Kallapaphruek Road (that’s on the Thonburi side, you’ll need to take a five-minute cab from BTS Wutthakat), Climb Central features gnarled walls and overhangs for all abilities, along with onsite instruction if you need it. Walk-in entry for unlimited climbs is fairly inexpensive for both kids (B500) and adults (B600), while the climbing gear is top-notch. 10/2 Kallapraphruek Rd., 092-250-0790. Open Mon-Fri 1-10pm; Sat-Sun 10am-9pm

Hot Spots BEST GOLF COURSES

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THANA CITY GOLF AND SPORTS CLUB

Right on the flight path of Suvarnabhumi Airport, Thana City Golf and Country offers a challenging course dotted with bunkers, lakes and streams. There’s a special Monday golf course (B1,650 including caddy). The attached Sports Club features swimming pools, fitness, tennis, badminton, table-tennis, squash and a kid’s zone which makes it a place where family can enjoy activities together.

ALPINE GOLF CLUB

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100/2 M.4, Bangna-Trad Highway, Bangchalong, 02336-1968. Open daily 5:30am-6pm (Golf Club); 6am10pm (Sports Club). www.thanacitygolf.com

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THAI COUNTRY CLUB

Managed by Peninsula Hotels, this 7,157yard course is known for its excellent service. The course was designed by Dennis Griffiths under US PGA international standards. It has regularly been voted Asia’s Top Course by Asian Golf magazine. 88 M.1, Bangna-Trad Rd., Km 35.5, 038-570-234. Open Tue-Sun (closed on Mon except Public Holidays) 6am9pm. www.thaicountryclub.com

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ALPINE GOLF CLUB

Since opening in 1996, the golf club, designed by legendary American golf course architect Ron M. Garl, has hosted many important international golf tournaments. It was even the spot of Tiger Woods’ Asian Tour win in 2000. Plenty of other sports are on offer thanks to a swimming pool, fitness facilities and an aerobics center at the clubhouse. There’s also a sauna and Jacuzzi. 99 M.9 Bangkhan-Sathaneevithayu Rd., Klong 5, 02-5773333. Open Tue-Sun (closed on Mon except public holidays). 6:30am-7pm. www.alpinegolfclub.com

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LE MERIDIEN SUVARNABHUMI

Just a short taxi ride from Suvarnabhumi International Airport, Bangkok’s Golf Resort & Spa, situated in the Summit Windmill Golf Club, has both day and night golf courses, elegant guest rooms and various leisure facilities including exclusive access to the clubhouse, spa and pool. There are also plenty of restaurants: try Favola for Italian and Latitude 13° 39’ for evening drinks.

789 M.14, Bangna-Trad Rd., Km 10.5, Bangplee, 02-1187777 (Le Meridien Suvarnabhumi), 02-750-2112 (Summit Windmill Golf Club). Day golf open daily 6am-2pm; night golf open Tue-Sun 4pm-7:30pm. www.lemeridiensuvarnabhumi.com

ROYAL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB

4

ROYAL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB

Located close to the International Airport, it is easily accessed through the Motorway (BangkokChonburi). This scenic golf and country club with trees and lakes spread throughout, is known as one of Thailand’s challenging golf courses with many water hazard holes. The signature ‘Mickey Mouse’ hole (par 4 hole 16) is so dubbed due to its resemblance to the wellknown Disney Character. 69 M.7, Tambon Rd., Sisa Chorakhe Noi, Bang Sao Thong, 02-738-1010. Open Mon-Sun 6am-6pm

The Oriental Spa As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa is set in a century-old teak house including five specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments under a holistic philosophy. Try the Oriental Signature Treatment, a 1.5-hour aromatherapy signature massage of essential oils; the Oriental Organic Journey, a 2.5-hour fullbody detoxifying scrub and steam; the Herbal Wrap, an hour-long wrap using fresh herbs from Chiang Mai to target dehydrated skin, and plenty more options. Full day and half day spa packages are also available. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-6599000. Open daily 9am-10pm. BTS Saphan Taksin

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GUIDE

ATTRACTIONS IMPACT SPEED PARK Thailand’s first electric go-kart circuit is home to 30 Sodi RTX electirc karts that reach speeds of 70km/hr in an instant. The course, out on the outskirts of the city in the Muang Thong Tani district, stretches for 800 meters of sharp hairpins and sweeping high-speed corners, complete with the latest safety impact bumpers—Tecpro polyethylene barriers and lightweight webbed structures to better absorb impact. The whole thing was built to the tune of B800 million and stays open till midnight. Kids over seven welcome. IMPACT Lakeside, Popular Soi 4, 02-055-8900. Open Mon-Fri 4pm-midnight; Sat-Sun noonmidnight

Hot Spots FAMILY FUN

1

5

BOUNCE THAILAND

At Asia’s biggest trampoline park, you can bounce about in a giant room packed with interconnecting trampolines—whether it’s for serious exercise or simply to have some fun. The Free Jumping zone lets you ping around at leisure or practice some pro moves, while the Bounce Fit zone shows you just about the most fun way possible to keep in shape. Kids can join too (aged three and above), with the Bounce Zone offering a safe environment for them to play.

5/F, The St. Ratchada, New Ratchadapisek Rd., 02014-2446. Open daily 10am-10pm. MRT Thailand Cultural Centre.

2

DINOSAUR PLANET

The focus here is on dinosaurs, which translates to a lot of very cool animatronic, lifesized reptiles bobbing their heads and blinking at you with their doey eyes. Beyond the selfie opportunities, you can climb onto the Dino Eye for a rather unimpressive view (given that the surrounding buildings are taller than the ferris wheel), watch a “4D” film or get chased about by guys in raptor suits.

554/1 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-833-2209. Open daily 10am10pm. BTS Phrom Phong.

SEA LIFE BANGKOK OCEAN WORLD

3

LAZGAM LASER GAMES

Let the child within break free and shoot at all your friends with some of the latest laser technology in Bangkok. This 500-sq-meter maze-like battlefield is laced with strobe lights, fluroscent decor and smoke machine, all adding to the sci-fi like vibes. Games cater for up to 32 people, from the tag-like Alien Invasion, where players have the ability to infect each other, to the Blaster Booster game, where you have to dodge the lasers of other players.

This edutainment spot is home to Bangkok’s biggest live snake collection with over 70 species including an anoconda and albino python. The 400-seat Naka Theater (taking its name from the sanskrit word for serpent) puts on live snake-handlingdemonstrations with cobras as well as a stage show of classical Thai dance. The snake museum, meanwhile, offers interactive and audio-visual learning exhibits on snakes. 969 Luang Phang Rd., 02-326-5800. Open daily 9am-5:30pm

Y SPOTLIGHT

5/F, Holiday Inn, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-663-7703. BTS Phrom Phong.

4

SEA LIFE BANGKOK OCEAN WORLD

Tucked in the basement of Siam Paragon, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium is home to over 9,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. The aquarium also offers family-friendly interactive activities such as diving with the sharks, 4D cinema experiences, creature feeding, back-of-house visits and even real ocean walks in wetsuits. Be sure to check activity times prior to your visit. We also recommend making advanced reservations, as there are limited spots for each activity per day.

DINOSAUR PLANET

SIAM SERPENTARIUM

B1-B2/F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-687-2000. Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS Siam

Jim Thompson House & Art Center The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. Soi Kasem San 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. Open daily 9am-6pm. BTS National Stadium

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GUIDE

ART

NEW

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TCDC

The Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC) just moved to a space adjacent to the 80-year-old building that was once the Bangkok General Post Office. The TCDC's arrival on Charoenkrung caps an incredible rise for Bangkok's oldest road, which in recent years has seen a spate of cool bars and galleries take over old shop-houses. Eleven other creative spaces in the neighborhood will welcome TCDC by opening late on May 6 as part of the latest Creative District Gallery Hopping Night (see Hot Dates, page 4). May 5-7 will be packed with concerts and fairs. Beyond that, TCDC will host regular talks, meetings and workshops on topics like cuisine, craftsmanship and culture. 2/F, The Grand Postal Building, 1160 Charoenkrung Rd. 02-105-7400

Hot Spots THAI ARTS & CRAFTS

1

THE SHELTERING PLACE

Saigon-based photographer Yatender, whose style has been likened to the late Chinese photographer Ren Hang, presents an intimate collection of images capturing people in contorted and uncomfortable positions. Through Jun 30. Most Gallery, 672-36 Charoenkrung Soi 26, 02639-6582

3

GREY AREA

Indonesian photographer Angki Purbandono presents a series of images he captured during his imprisonment in 2012-2013 and inspired by community relationships within a limited space. The images are creatively created from a scanner, as a camera was prohibited. Through July 26.

Bangkok University Gallery, 2-4/F, BU International College Building (Bld.7), 119 Rama 4 Rd., 02-350-3626

4 2

Spanish photographer Omar Havana presents a series of photographs capturing the stories of people who were victims of the 2015 7.8 magnitude earthquake that devastated Nepal. The author will also be selling the series in a photobook format during the exhibition, with all proceeds being donated to projects benefiting the reconstruction of the country. Through May 21. Foreign Correspondent’s Club Thailand, Penthouse/F, Maneeya Centre, 508/5 Phloen Chit Rd. BTS Chit Lom

NEVER NEVER LAND

A group exhibition in which 12 local and international artists were invited to consider a society devoid of the many fundamental elements that make up the world today, including the internet, religion, money and corruption. Through Jun 20.

THE SHELTERING PLACE

5

ENDURANCE

Y SPOTLIGHT

WTF Gallery & Cafe, 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662 -6246. BTS Thong lo

DEFENDANT OF LOVE

A group exhibition by four female artists including Chomphupak Poonpol, Napatsakorn Nikornsaen, Nuttinan Phukama and Athapha Rattanaphongthara, whose works capture the oppression that Thai women face in society through influencers like the media and soap operas. Through May 22.

National Museum

Tentacles N22, Narathiwas Soi 22, 061-941-6555 GREY AREA

Formerly the viceroy's palace, the National Museum is a must-see complex of traditional Thai structures. The front hall itself is highlighted by a monumental Buddha head from the Ayutthaya period that overlooks the whole exhibition space, while a stunningly graceful bronze Bodhisattva from the Srivijaya period takes center stage amid Khmer and Hindu sculptures. You'll also find carefully kept smaller pieces ranging from Budhist art to delicate Rattanakosin-era puppets. 4 Na Phra That Rd., 02 224-1404, 02-224-1333. Open Tue-Sun 9am-4pm

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

Phahon Yothin ¾ËÅâ¸Թ

Chatuchak Park Êǹ¨µØ¨Ñ¡Ã

Chao Phraya River áÁ‹¹้Ó਌ҾÃÐÂÒ

Kamphaeng Phet ¡ÓᾧྪÃ

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Mo Chit ËÁͪԵ

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Saphan Khwai Êоҹ¤ÇÒÂ

Huai Khwang ËÑÇ¢ÇÒ§

Ari ÍÒÃÕÂ

Thailand Cultural Centre Èٹ ÇѲ¹¸ÃÃÁáË‹§»ÃÐà·Èä·Â

Sanam Pao ʹÒÁ໇Ò

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Ratchawithi Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒªÇÔ¶Õ

3

Phra Athit ·‹ÒàÃ×;ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Victory Monument ͹ØàÊÒÇÃÕÂ

4

To Suvarnabhumi Airport

Phaya Thai ¾ÞÒä·

5

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7 Tha Chang ·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒªŒÒ§

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Sukhumvit ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

!8 Chit Lom ªÔ´ÅÁ

Siam ÊÂÒÁ

Ratchadamri ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

Phloen Chit à¾ÅÔ¹¨Ôµ

Nana ¹Ò¹Ò

Asok ÍâÈ¡

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Phetchaburi ྪúØÃÕ

Ramkhamhaeng ÃÒÁ¤Óá˧

Phetchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ªÃºØÃÕ

Ratchathewi ÃÒªà·ÇÕ

National Stadium ʹÒÁ¡ÕÌÒ áË‹§ªÒµÔ

Makkasan ÁÑ¡¡ÐÊѹ

Ratchaprarop ÃÒª»ÃÒö

Phaya Thai ¾ÞÒä·

Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´Óà¹Ô¹¡ÅÒ§

6 Wang Lang ·‹ÒàÃ×Í ÇѧËÅѧ

Phra Ram 9 ¾ÃÐÃÒÁ 9

Phrom Phong ¾ÃŒÍÁ¾§É

Thong Lo ·Í§ËÅ‹Í Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

Queen Sirikit National Conv. Centre Èٹ »ÃЪØÁ áË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Phra Khanong ¾ÃÐ⢹§

Yaowarat Rd.

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!1

Tha Tien ·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒàµÕ¹

Ratcha wong ·‹ÒàÃ×Í ÃҪǧ¤

Sam Yan ÊÒÁ‹ҹ

Hua Lamphong ËÑÇÅÓ⾧

Si Phraya ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÕ¾ÃÐÂÒ

Lumphini ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Silom ÊÕÅÁ

Bang Chak ºÒ§¨Ò¡

Khlong Toei ¤ÅͧàµÂ

Punnawithi »Ø³³ÇÔ¶Õ

Sala Daeng ÈÒÅÒá´§

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Surasak ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

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1 Rama III Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ 3

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Krung Thon Buri ¡Ãا¸¹ºØÃÕ

1 Asiatique the Riverfont

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Main road

2 Chatuchak Market

!1 Yaowarat (Chinatown)

BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

3 Vimanmek Mansion

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumphini Park

MRT

5 Khao San Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

!5 Siam Paragon

River/Klong (canal)

7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

!6 CentralWorld and Zen

8 Wat Pho

!7 Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

9 Wat Arun

!8 Central Chidlom, Central Embassy

Pier

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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

28 W H E R E T H A I LAND I MAY- J UNE 2 0 1 7

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

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Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS­ Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130. The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS­ While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 MAY-JUNE 2017 I W HER E THA ILA N D 29

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

2

4

8

!3

!9

@0

1 Exploring the exquisite antique 6 Exploring Thailand’s glorious col- !2 Shopping frantically in the tropical !8 Use the Chao Praya Express to zip collection and classic Thai architecture of Jim Thompson House. See page 26.

lection of Buddhist treasures at the National Museum. See page 27.

heat of Bangkok’s many bustling markets. See page 24.

up and down the river without getting stuck in traffic. www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com

7 Basking in the luxury of Phloen !3 Jostling for space at the counter 2 Heading over to Chinatown for Chit, where elegance and refinement of Orihara Shoten, a sake bar packed !9 Scaling the walls at the new Climb a taste of Bangkok craft cocktail culture. See page 16.

reign supreme. See page 14.

with Japanese salarymen. See page 9.

Central, a massive indoor facility on Bangkok’s Thonburi side. See page 25.

8 Sipping cocktails made with local !4 Competing for the fastest lap on 3 Tasting the deliciously inven- rum on the island of Samui. See page the torque-packed electric go-karts at @0 Discover the “drinking food” cultive takes on Thai food at modern bistro 80/20. See page 22.

Impact Speed Park. See page 26.

10.

ture of Thailand at Err, by the super star chefs at Bo.lan. See page 23.

9 Starting the day at Wonderwall !5 Browsing the massive collection of 4 Tucking into a rack of richly smoked with freshly brewed coffee using books at Open House, also home to @1 Slurping up a bowl of noodles on slow-cooked ribs at Le Cochon Blanc barbecue pit. See page 7.

blends from Japan or Hong Kong. See page 22.

wonderful eateries. See page 13.

a sidewalk. Just point to whatever the locals are having.

!6 Letting the best house-made pan5 Trying our hand at Thai cook- !0 Teeing off at one of the country’s eer cheese you’ve ever had melt in ing with Blue Elephant‘s legendary culinary school. See page 22.

world-class golf courses. See page 25.

your mouth at Gaa. See page 6.

!1 Stocking up on Thai menswear !7 Touring the jazz lounges of the labels at Siam Center’s Pur.Suit section. See page 24.

city’s most exclusive five-star hotels. See page 20.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

30 W H E R E T H AILAND I MAY- J UNE 2 0 1 7

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Where to find Hotels in Bangkok Amara Bangkok AETAS Bangkok All season Bangkok Siam Aloft Bangkok Amari Watergate Hotel Bangkok Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa Arnoma Hotel Baan Noppawong Bally’s Studio Suites Banyan Tree Bangkok Hotel Best Western Sukhumvit Cabochon Hotel & Residence Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Centara Grand at Central World Hotel Bangkok Centara Hotel & Resorts Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok Conrad Bangkok Hotel Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Hotel Dusit Thani Bangkok Hotel Bangkok Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Emporium Suites Bangkok Four Points by Sheraton Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel & Spa (former Four Seasons) Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok Grand Mercure Park Avenue Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Hotel Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 Holiday Inn Silom Hotel Hotel Muse Hua Chang Heritage Hotel InterContinental Bangkok Hotel JW Marriott Bangkok Klapsons the River Residences Le Fenix Sukhumvit Lebua Hotel Bangkok Luxx Hotel Majestic Grande hotel Mandarin Oriental Hotel Mandarin Hotel Managed by Centre Point Mercure & ibis Bangkok Siam

P.31 Distribute_May-Jun_2017.indd 31

where Thailand

Marriott Sukhumvit 57

The Sukhothai Bangkok Hotel

Millennium Hilton Hotel

The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Hotel

Miracle Grand Convention Hotel

VIE Hotel

Montien Riverside Hotel

ViVa Garden

Novotel Bangkok Hotel

W Bangkok Hotel

Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit Sukhumvit

Hotels in other province

Novotel Bangkok Impact

Serviced Apartment Adelphi Forty-Nine Courtyard Marriott

Shopping Mall Central World

Oaks Bangkok Sathorn Thailand

Tamarind Village at Chiang Mai

Peninsular Plaza

Park Plaza Sukhumvit Bangkok

Shangri-La Chiang Mai

The Emporium Department Store

Pathumwan Princess Hotel

Sheraton Krabi

The River City Shopping Complex

Peninsula Bangkok Hotel

Dusit D2 Baraquda Pattaya Hotel

Phachara suites

Sheraton HuaHin Resort & Spa

Others

Plaza Athenee Bangkok A Royal Meridien

JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort & Spa

Devarana Spa

Pullman Bangkok King Power

Chandara Resort

Elemis Spa at St. Regis

Pullman Bangkok Hotel G

JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa

Yunomori Onsen & Spa

Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok

Renaissance Phuket Resort & Spa

Bangkok Baking Co. (JW Marriott)

Radisson suites bangkok Ramada Encore Bangkok

Anantara Rasananda Koh Phangan Villa Resort & Spa Blue Elephant Restaurant Mandarin Oriental At Paragon Renaissance Koh Samui Resort & Spa

Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside Bangkok

Dara Samui Beach Resort & Spa Villa

Pizza Romana Pala

Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Hotel

Intercontinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam Resort

La Grande Perle

Riva Surya Hotel

Le Meridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa

Kuppadeli

Royal Orchid Sheraton hotel towers

Santiburi Resort

Dean & DeLuca (Thailand) Co., Ltd

Samed Resorts

Conrad Koh Samui

Kalpapruek (Soi Pramuan)

Shangri-La Hotel

Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa

VIVA & AVIV

Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit Hotel

Centara Grand Beach Resort Villas Hua Hin

the kiwi bangkok sports pub & grill

Siam @ siam design hotel & spa

Lets Sea Hua Hin Al Fresco Resort�

The Australian Pub & BBQ

Siam Kempinski Hotel

Villa Maroc Resort

German Embassy( Press and Cultural

Sivatel Bangkok

Anantara Resort Hua Hin

Section)

Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit

Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort

TAT at Counter Imformation

Sofitel So

Hard Rock Hotel

Chao Phraya Express Boat

Springfield Group Resort, Golf & Spa

Holiday Inn Pattaya

Bangkok Art and culture Centre

St Regis

Siripanna Villa Resort & Spa Chiang Mai

Yodpiman River Walk

Swissotel Le Concorde Hotel

Centara Duangtawan Hotel Chiang Mai

Swissotel Nai Lert Park Hotel

Centara Khum Phaya Resort & Spa, Centara

The Berkeley Hotel

Boutique Collection

The Continent Hotel Bangkok

Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai

The Davis Bangkok Hotel

Hilton Phuket Arcadia Resort & Spa

The Landmark Bangkok

Ayara Hilltops Boutique Resort & Spa

The Lit Bangkok

Angsana Laguna Phuket

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Where reaches over 100,000 visitors each month. For sales enquiries, contact advertising@ asia-city.co.th or call 02-6249638.

The Metropolitan Hotel The Okura Prestige Bangkok The Siam Hotel

4/27/17 2:21 PM


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