Where® Thailand May 2015 by Where Thailand

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M AY 2 0 1 5 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

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Where to shop for local design Day trips near Bangkok

Drink Up

The booze trends sweeping Bangkok’s coolest bars

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CONTENTS where

l THAILAND l MAY 2015

The Guide BANGKOK 23 DINING Where to find the best Asian fine-dining experiences, plus Sukhumvit's street-food hot spots.

26 NIGHTLIFE Old and new live jazz bars, sultry cigar lounges and a new rooftop party spot.

CHEERS TO THAT

28 ARTS+ATTRACTIONS The hottest exhibitions in Bangkok's galleries this month.

Bangkok's very best boozy openings.

SHOPPING

29 SHOPS+SERVICES

10 KNOW YOUR MALLS At Bangkok's many shopping malls, discover the most creative young Thai designers alongside big international brands.

Check out these vintage shops for collectible fashion finds imported from all over the world.

30 HEALTH+WELLNESS On the outskirts of the city, discover some of the best-loved golf courses and country clubs in Asia.

AROUND THAILAND 14 DAY TRIPPING

Within three hours' drive of Bangkok lie some of the country's top historic and natural attractions.

31 PROPERTY

16 NEWS Athletic events, cultural excursions and nightlife parties across the country.

High-rise riverside developments with views to die for.

32 NAVIGATE

EXPLORING

Essential tips on getting around.

18 OLD TOWN Bangkok's finest religious and royal landmarks sit alongside laid-back bars and shop-house restaurants.

20 General Manager Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor/Product Director Grégoire Glachant Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Regional Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Senior Designer Panita Thiraphapong

Home to Bangkok's Japanese community, modern international restaurants and design-forward galleries.

Staff Writer Pinnyada Tanitnon Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Lily Kittisrikangwan Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant Cover by Grégoire Glachant

HOT DATES

34 21 THINGS WE LOVE

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com

MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

ALSO INSIDE

20 SUKHUMVIT SOIS 31-49

www.wherethailand.com

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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HOT DATES

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MAY 14

HOT AND COLD

Top selling digital artist of all time Katy Perry brings her world tour to Bangkok, taking fans through her hits like “I Kissed a Girl,” “TGIF” and “Dark Horse.” So far, her Prismatic World Tour has been a huge hit worldwide, with several sold-out shows. Tickets are running out quickly, so make sure you score them pronto. Impact Arena, 99 Popular Road., 02-8334455. Tickets are B2,000-6,500, available at www.thaiticketmajor.com

MAY 8

MAY 6

MAY 8-10

MAY 29-30

After 16 successful years, the biggest transgender beauty pageant in Thailand, Miss Tiffany Universe, returns to Pattaya City in its very own theater to showcase the talents of Thai transgenders and transvestites, and promote gender equality and the LGBT community. Part of the show’s profits will be donated to the Thai Red Cross Society’s project to help families with children with HIV/Aids, a campaign endorsed by HRH Princess Somsawali.

After receiving seven Grammy Award Nominations, selling over 130-million records worldwide and stealing the hearts of the ‘90s youth, the Backstreet Boys are back, and will be stopping by Thailand as part of their 2015 World Tour. The concert will be held at the Impact Arena in Muang Thong Thani, where they will take their fans back through their biggest hits from “As Long As You Love Me” to songs from their new comeback album.

Together Festival is one of Bangkok’s biggest electronic dance music events, and this year features some of the most popular DJs in the world right now: Hardwell, Steve Aoki, W&W and Vinai. All tickets are valid for two days, with VIP benefits including fast lane entry, elevated viewpoint access, VIP bathrooms, private bars and standing tables. Open to guests age 20 and over only, so bring your ID to the venue.

WTF Bar & Gallery, Bangkok’s first bar and art gallery (see page 26), celebrates its five-year anniversary with a block-party festival featuring special cocktails, craft beers and a giant lineup of art-based events, including an exhibition of outsider art, a live street art demonstration andthe unveiling of a new sculpture to hang in the WTF alley, as well as short film screenings and DJ events.

HELLO LADIES

464 Moo 9, Pattaya 2nd Rd. Tickets are B1,800-2,800, available at 038-421700. www.misstiffanyuniverse.com

’90S FEVER

Impact Arena, 99 Popular Road., 02833-4455. Tickets are B1,800-5000, available at www.thaiticketmajor.com

RAVE ON

BITEC, 88 Bang Na Trat Rd., 02749-3939. BTS Bang Na. Tickets are B3,100-6000, available at on.fb. me/1xfEOdb

ART FEST

WTF Bar & Gallery, 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Free admission

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NIGHTLIFE YOICHI NIKKA

CHEERS TO THAT

Get a taste of Bangkok’s hottest nightlife trends at the city’s best bars and clubs.

ARTY CHAROENKRUNG

JAPANESE WHISKEY BARS

Charoenkrung Road used to be the last place anyone would hit up for an eventful night. Now, the area is home to shop-houses transformed into contemporary bars and art galleries. Most are run by artists themselves, and flocked to by the city’s hippest crowd every weekend. Soulbar (945 Charoenkrung Rd., 095-521-1541) is probably the most drinkfocused among them. Tucked in a small space not far from Chinatown, this simple but tastefully turned out bar plays host to live soul and funk bands every Tue-Sat. A short walk away is Soy Sauce Factory (11/1 Charoenkrung Soi 24, 081-301-2669), where you’ll find regular exhibitions in collaboration with bigname photographers from around the region. Back towards Saphan Taksin BTS station, Bridge (Charoenkrung Soi 51, 086-9869421) is a four-story cafe-slash-art space featuring a mix of both established and new locally-based artists. It is also a prime spot for breakfast, while there’s a charming rooftop that just about manages a river view.

Bangkok is home to a huge Japanese community, which means it’s one of the best places in Southeast Asia to experience authentic izakaya (Japanese taverns). Hanakaruta (36/4 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-6627339) is one hell of a place to get a good drink. The barman is very passionate, often inviting guest to taste spirit after spirit before mixing them a personalized cocktails. Nearby, Walden (7/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-8087) serves high-ball whisky cocktails, straight-up single malts, or premium Japanese liquors like shochu and umeshu. Yoichi Nikka (6/11 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-4270), also in the same neighborhood, serves specialty dishes from Hokkaido as well as Takesuru 17 Years Old, which was named World’s Best Blended Malt Whisky in 2014.

GAY DISTRICTS Thanks to a vast LGBT community, the city is home to a huge array of gay-friendly nightlife options, from streets lined with bars, dance clubs and strip shows to gay nights at affluent drinking venues. Head to Silom Soi 2 and you will enter a dead-end street filled gay clubs churning mixes of Britney and Beyonce (bring I.D., they are very strict). The biggest and most popular in the soi is DJ Station, where you’ll find three stories of Hong Kong/ Singaporean weekenders, flight attendants and small packs of other gay tourists. As for the Thais, they tend to either be dancing shirtless on stage or chasing tourists on the second floor. Make it there by 11:15pm to see the nightly cabaret show. One street up on Silom Soi 4 you’ll find more sit-down drinking venues and karaoke lounges. Stop by The Stranger Bar and Lounge for some funthemed cocktails with a modern, younger crowd, or head to Telephone, the oldest drinking establishment on the street (but still popular with locals and expats). Also don’t miss the Sunday gay nights at Maggie Choo’s (see Exotic Escapades), when topless hunks with rock-hard six packs take to the swings, presided over by local drag sensation Pangina Heals (see box).

SOUL BAR

DJ STATION

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A.R. SUTTON ENGINEERS

J. BOROSKI MIIXOLOGY

MIXOLOGY LOUNGES The best mixology lounges in the city can be found tucked inside community malls, on the terraces of five-star hotels, or carefully hidden in the trendiest areas. But they all have two common traits to captivate an attractive crowd: impeccable interiors and carefully crafted and potent cocktails. A.R Sutton Engineers Siam (G/F, Park Lane Ekkamai, Sukhumvit Soi 63 [Ekkamai]) resembles a forgotten British gentlemen’s club—all brass, leather, wood and foliage. Don’t miss the house spirits, such as home-spiced rum and even gin distilled on the premises. Live classical music plays on Wed, Fri, Sat and Sun from 9pm. Bamboo Bar (1/F, Mandarin Oriental, Oriental Ave. 02-659-9000) at Bangkok’s legendary Oriental Hotel recently underwent a stunning renovation, and now serves some of the best cocktails in town. Opened back in 1953, the jazz institution still features live singers from 9pm daily, accompanied by music played on a baby grand. J. Boroski Mixology (125/13 Sukhumvit Soi 55 [Thonglor], 02-712-6025) is a hidden gem among countless bars in Bangkok—and by hidden, we really mean it. Between Thonglor Soi 5 and Soi 7, look for the women in red dresses outside a karaoke lounge, turn left and head to the end of the street. Once inside, you’ll be served cocktails tailored to your requirements (there’s no menu) using ingredients you can’t find anywhere else in town.

THE IRON FAIRIES

BAMBOO BAR

EXOTIC ESCAPADES Immerse yourself in a children’s book fantasy world, Shanghai opium lounge or 1950s motel at these flight-of-fancy bars. Thanks to the talents of Bangkok-based designer Ashley Sutton, places like The Iron Fairies (404 Sukhumvit Soi 55 [Thonglor], 02-714-8875) are like nowhere else in the world—a Dickensian factory with crumbling brick walls and a scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make miniature metal fairies. Be sure to try the powerful signature cocktails and burgers. Sutton is also behind Maggie Choo’s (next to Hotel Novotel Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 091-772-2144. BTS Surasak), a

DO NOT DISTURB

bar that evokes colonial outposts, the Pax Britannica of Queen Victoria, the decadence of opium or gambling dens, steamy exoticism (and steaming noodles on your way in), James Bond movies and gentlemen’s clubs. You can usually expect some kind of entertainment: a band, a DJ accompanied by a percussionist and beautiful ladies in cheongsam dresses lazing about. The cocktail menu is sweet, fruity and aromatic. Or to party till the early hours, head to Do Not Disturb (Ekkamai Soi 7, 094446-6269), where local DJs and live bands play in a motel-themed nightclub. Upstairs is a Japanese yakiniku bar named Kukkuuk (open 6pm-1am) and an outdoor balcony.

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NIGHTLIFE

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HOT ROD

LATE-NIGHT BITES

Where Bangkokians refuel after heavy nights out

ABOVE ELEVEN

MAGGIE CHOO’S

ROOFTOP BARS & RESTAURANTS

THAI FOOD AND POTENT COCKTAILS

Thanks to a skyline bustling with city lights and high-rise architecture, rooftop bars are one of Bangkok’s nightlife signatures. If you’re after a taste of jazz-age glamour, The Speakeasy (24-25/F, Hotel Muse Bangkok Langsuan, 02630-4000), sports prohibition-era inspired decor spread over two stories. A balcony on the 24th floor lets you take in 180-degree views of Bangkok’s business district, while an alfresco rooftop offers a more leisurely atmosphere. For formal dining, L’Appart (32/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-126-9999. BTS Nana.) tops our list thanks to contemporary French cuisine that incorporates local produce and flavors. It’s all served in a restaurant that feels like a classic Parisian apartment—parquet floor, velvet upholstery, even an open kitchen with a La Cornue stove. Or for more casual, outdoor dining, check out Above Eleven (33/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111) for its adventurous menu of Japanese-Peruvian fusion (aka Nikkei) cuisine. Small plates like acebichado rolls (seabass, ika karage, avocado) and skewers of anticucho beef heart are bettered only by their signature cocktails and impressive skyline.

Plenty of chefs and mixologists across the city have been mixing zesty Thai aromas into cocktails that match perfectly with inventive Thai cuisine. One of our favorites is Hot Rod (G/F, Park Lane Ekkamai, Sukhumvit Soi 63 [Ekkamai], 02714-2575. BTS Ekkamai). In the booming Ekkamai nightlife district, this small bar and restaurant from the same designer as Maggie Choo’s (see Exotic Escapades) dishes out a sophisticated menu of elaborate cocktails and creative or rare Thai food. Nearby, Soul Food Mahanakorn (56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 [Thonglor], 02714-7708. BTS Thong Lo) whips up very potent original signature cocktails like the Bun Bang Fai (a mix of tequila, lime, chili, almond syrup and egg white) as well as a brief menu of perfectly executed Thai regional dishes. The environment is comfortable and laid-back. On the other side of town, Namsaah Bottling Trust (401 Silom Soi 7, 02-636-6622. BTS Chong Nonsi) is helmed by acclaimed Thai chef Ian Kittichai, whose Asian comfort dishes are served in a 100-yearold house painted pink. Downstairs specializes in cocktails, with a long list of recognizable classics given local twists, while upstairs offers more formal dining on things like pad Thai with duck and foie gras.

Pangina Heals aka Pan Pan Narkprasert Drag MC “My favorite venue to eat after 1am is Khao Man Ghai Ta Fah on Charoenkrung Soi 65. I usually order loads of fried chicken and kaomun rice with a bowl of tom yam goong. The spice kicks your ass for drinking too much and makes yosweat the alcohol out. I like it because like me, It’s cheap but delicious, spicy yet savory. It’s a shophouse next to 7-Eleven.”

Chef Ian Kittichai Chef at Issaya Siamese Club “One of my go-to meals to eat after dark is the pad Thai hor khai goong sod (pad Thai wrapped in eggs with fresh prawns), pad Thai sen-chan man goong (pad Thai with prawn paste) and freshly squeezed orange juice at Pad Thai Tip Samai on Mahachai Road. This place is open from 5pm-3:30am daily.”

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SHOPPING

CENTRAL EMBASSY

KNOW YOUR MALLS

NEW

Bangkok’s shopping scene has just welcomed some huge new malls. Inside you’ll find not only the world’s top designer brands, but also some cool local names. By Vasachol Quadri

SIAM CENTER

VICTORIA’S SECRET

CENTRAL EMBASSY

Next up from CentralWorld (see page 11) is this spacious minimalist mall filled with highend brands from around the world. The first two floors offer Prada, McQ by Alexander McQueen, Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin, Kenzo, Jil Sander and Isabel Marant, while the floor above belongs to Thai designer brands at the steeper end of the price scale like Sretsis, Something Boudoir, 77th Atelier and (our recommendation) Boyy. Another highlight is the stylish Siwilai (5/F) a multi-label store which focuses on unique and collectible pieces. It also houses furniture and fashion exhibitions on occasion. For furniture and decorative pieces, Room Concept Store (4/F) is a must-visit, specializing in the work of Thai designers. Phloen Chit Rd., 02-119-7777. BTS Chit Lom/Phloen Chit

SIAM PARAGON

THE SELECTED

SIAM CENTER This shopping center is one of Bangkok’s longest standing malls. It’s been around for over four decades, beside Bangkok’s fashion mecca Siam Square, but has changed a lot in that time. Siam Center is an institution for Thai designers, gathering the best Thai brands into one place. In 2011, the mall went through its biggest makeover yet to place even more focus on the work of local talent. It’s hands down the best place to shop for Thai designer brands, whether it’s long-established readyto-wear names Soda (3/F), Greyhound (3/F) and Kloset (3/F), or fast-rising stars

SIAM PARAGON

like Milin (3/F), Senada (3/F), Something Boudoir (3/F) and DA+PP (3/F). Another highlight is this mall’s multi-label offerings. The Selected (3/F), The Wonder Room (3/F) and, the latest arrival, Gin & Milk (3/F) all focus on well-designed menswear from some of the hottest Thai brands. But it’s not all about local fashion. The mall also features Thailand’s first branch of Victoria’s Secret (G/F) and the beauty giant Sephora (G/F). There’s a sizable Forever 21 (G/F) and Pull & Bear (G/F), too. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamcenter. co.th

When this project by one of Bangkok’s largest retail companies, The Mall Group, opened back in 2005 it brought a new era of luxury shopping to Bangkok. The focus is on highend brands like Hermes, Chanel, Balenciaga, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino, all of which can be found on the M foor, directly after exiting BTS Siam. Move one floor up to find affordable choices like Zara, H&M, MNG and a huge Uniqlo, while in the department store you’ll also find space dedicated to both Thai womenswear and menswear brands. On the entertainment side, Siam Paragon also offers Sea Life Bangkok (LG/F), one of Southeast Asia’s largest aquariums, while a bowling alley, concert venue and cinema can be found from the fourth floor upwards. Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-8000. BTS Siam

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NEW

EMQUARTIER

Directly opposite the oldest luxury mall in town (The Emporium, see right) you’ll find the newest. The selection of shops here is slightly different from Emporium, focusing more on cult brands from Asia like Korean fashion and cosmetic sensation Style Nanda (3/F) and Tokyo fashion brands Beams (1/F) and A Bathing Ape (M/F). Other highlights include Bangkok’s first flagship stores from American designer Alexander Wang (M/F), German luxury leather brand MCM (G/F) and Paul Smith’s casual line, PS (M/F). There are also complete floors dedicated to everyone’s favorites H&M (1/F), Zara (1/F) and Uniqlo (2/F). As well as the luxury shops, there are also plenty of restaurants, ranging from the new project by local high-end Japanese favorite Mugendai (9/F) to the Bangkok debut from French macaron legend Pierre Herme (1/F). Entertainment is provided with the new IMAX theater, Quartier Cineart (4/F). Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong

CENTRALWORLD

REVAMPED

THE EMPORIUM

Near Siam Paragon, in the city’s main shopping area, CentralWorld is Bangkok’s largest mall. There are hundreds of shops here, with a focus on more youth-oriented brands like Kate Spade (1/F), Jack Spade (1/F), Miss Selfridge (1/F), and Madam Flamingo (1/F). The mall is also known for its quality selection of niche brands spread arcoss various multilabel stores. Check out Uncensored (2/F) for Scandinavian brands like Wood Wood, Sandqvist and Happy Socks; Next to Normal (G/F) for cult-minimal names including A.P.C., Common Projects and Maison Kitsune; and American Rag Cie (1/F) for a focus on menswear from Cote & Ceil, Our Legacy and Trousers London. Attached to CentralWorld is Zen, a trendy department store; Isetan, a Japanese department store; and Centara Grand, a high-end hotel with a renowned rooftop bar, Red Sky (see page 25). The mall also has a long list of restaurant son its 7th floor, a space they share with SFX Cinema. For something more modish, head downstairs to the recently opened annex, Groove at CentralWorld, where you’ll find cool dining and drinking spots.

Set in the heart of Bangkok’s upscale residential area (and home to a large Japanese community), The Emporium is the city’s longest-standing luxury mall, offering shopping without the crowds. This is partly due to its pricey tenants—Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Dior (all on M/F)—but also because its spotlight has been stolen by newer luxury malls. This year, in 2015, The Emporium went through a major renovation, getting brighter walkways, a white marble floor and plenty of indoor foliage. The mall also introduced a new Thai designer zone (1/F) where you can find selected items from Disaya, Greyhound and Isawan Bag. Despite the good number of restaurants inside, we recommend heading to their food court, which offers a scrumptious selection of Bangkok’s famous street food stalls at an appropriate price range for such a Japanese-minimal setting. With the new renovation, The Emporium has also welcomed a luxury cinema, Emprive Cineclub (5/F), featuring five screens priced from B300-950.

Ratchadamri Rd., 02-640-7000. BTS Siam/Chit Lom

662 Sukhumvit Rd. 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong

THE EMPORIUM

EMQUARTIER

CENTRALWORLD

MUGENDAI

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AROUND THAILAND

JEATH WAR MUSEUM

DAY TRIPPING

Around Bangkok, you’ll discover historic towns and natural attractions that can be reached and explored in a single day.

RIVER KWAI BRIDGE

DEATH RAILWAY

KANCHANABURI Why you should go: Dubbed one of the most beautiful provinces in Thailand, Kanchanaburi boasts incredibly beautiful landscapes and a rich history. The abundant jungle offers a multitude of outdoor pursuits—rafting, canoeing, biking, hiking, bird watching, camping, swimming and elephant trekking. Kanchanaburi is also home to two of Thailand’s most important rivers—the Kwae Noi and Kwae Yai, collectively known as River Kwai—which were made famous thanks to their pivotal role in Japan’s Southeast Asian transport route during World War II. Bordering Myanmar, the province also offers a taste of Thailand’s unique blend of tribal cultures thanks to a large population of Mon and Khmer people. How to get there: The most scenic way to get there is definitely by train. The trip takes around three hours and leaves from the smaller Thonburi train station (don’t confuse it with Bangkok’s main sta-

tion, Hua Lamphong) starting at 7:45am. Check ow.ly/M3LyD for the full schedule. On site, you’ll need a car though, so booking a driver through your concierge is the most convenient, rapid and comfortable option. What to do: The Death Railway (Tha Makham, Kanchanaburi, 088-870-0195) was built by Thai citizens and Western prisoners of war during WWII. Nearby is the JEATH War Museum (Maenamkwai Rd., Ban Tai, 034-511-263), which displays items such as letters, paintings, drawings and photos of the war prisoners during the construction of the railway. Erawan Falls is not to be missed. Tucked inside a beautiful rainforest, water flows from a mountain peak onto a cliff that is 1,500 meters high and drops down into seven levels of emerald-green ponds. For some family fun, visit an elephant-conservation camp, Elephant’s World (90/9 Moo 4, Ban Nong Hoi, 086-335-5332), where

you can play, feed and swim with rescued elephants in an environment that puts the animals’ welfare first. Insider tip: Visiting Kanchanburi means you will have to be active at some point. Save your nice clothes for the city and opt for sneakers, a comfortable top and shorts or sweatpants. Wear sunscreen. Eat here: Stop by the River Kwai Floating Restaurant (425 Meanumkwai Rd., 034-512-595), beside the Death Railway, for freshly-caught fish from the river prepared and served in any way you like. More of a landlubber? Try Keeree Tara (431/1 Kwae River Rd., 034-624-093), an elegant outdoor riverside restaurant known for its authentic family-style Thai dishes. For a fine-dining option, visit Rabieng Thong (Pavillion Hotel, 79/2 Moo 4, Ladya-Erawan Rd., 034-513-800), a riverside restaurant focusing on Thai and international cuisines.

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AYUTTHAYA

LOPBURI

Why you should go: The former capital of Thailand was conquered by Burmese invaders in 1767 and is now home to the Kingdom’s most important ruins; temples destroyed during the Burmese assault. There are over 400 relics of ancient-Thai architecture, as well as various palaces open to the public. Now one of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites, Ayutthaya is the perfect place for bicycle lovers to cycle around and immerse themselves in Thailand’s rich history.

Why you should go: Lopburi’s Khmer architecture is in sharp contrast wtih Bangkok’s temples. But as famous as the ancient monuments are the town’s mischievous and overconfident monkeys.

How to get there: By car, Bangkok to Ayutthaya takes approximately one hour. You can rent a private taxi to take you there and back in a day for approximately B2,500. However, the scenic option is the two-hour train leaving from Hua Lamphong (www.rotfaithai. com) from 4:30am onwards. The dreamiest option is to take a cruise though. Try Thai River Cruise (www.thairivercruise.com, 02-476-5207), Ayutthaya Boat and Travel (www.ayutthaya-boat.com, 035-244-558), or Asian Oasis (www.asian-oasis.com, 081496-4516). What to do: Wat Mahathat is famous for its Buddha head sculpture engulfed by tree roots. The temple was built by King Ramesuan in 1384 and contains a lot of the city’s important structures. Right opposite is Wat Ratchaburana, a series of well-preserved chedi ruins. For the most beautiful ruins, visit Wat Si Sanphet, a giant temple which used to be the city’s most important Buddhist landmark. Wat Phra Na Men survived the Burmese invasion and is beautifully preserved.

How to get there: The first train leaves at 5am from Hua Lamphong train station (www.rotfaithai.com) and takes 1.5-2 hours. It’ll drop you off within walking distance of the major tourist attractions. Alternatively, book a driver. What to do: Expect to visit a lot of museums and shrines. Start at Phra Narai Ratchaniwet, a former palace converted into a national museum. It belonged to King Narai of the late 17th century, who would stay there on hunting trips. Next, head to the Hosoponsin Museum, which focuses on religious Thai art and archaeology and is considered one of Thailand’s finest. Also don’t miss Wichayen House, a former royal reception house built

PHRA NARAI RATCHANIWET

to welcome the first envoys of Louis XIV of France. The elegant, Renaissance-style structure is now a museum. The Khmerstyle ruins at Phra Prang Sam Yot are probably the town’s most famous attraction, and also where you’re most likely to be swarmed by monkeys. Insider tip: The monkeys will want to climb on you. Put any jewelry out of reach of prying paws, carry no food on you, and don’t be afraid to use a bamboo stick to fend them off. Eat here: Visit Padthaiburi (51/3 Kanchana Nakhorn Rd., 091-884-5002) for a unique take on pad Thai fused with other Thai dishes. Also, try Sahai Phan Taa (3 Rop Wat Phra Thrat Rd., 081-762-4119), a familyfriendly Thai dining establishment open for lunch and dinner.

PHRA NARAI RATCHANIWET

Insider tip: Wear respectful clothing. Ayutthaya is a temple town, so you’re expected to wear sleeves and long pants. Eat this: Ayutthaya has many delicious streetfood eateries. Try Boat Noodles (midway down U-Thong Soi 12), an authentic spot where the noodles are prepared on a boat and served in a warm soup broth. For something lighter, visit the Chao Phrom Market (Corner of Naresuan Alley and U-Thong Rd.) for street stall finger foods. If you’re looking for a sitdown establishment, try the riverside Krung Kao Restaurant, located by the Chao Phraya and serving family-style Thai food. AYUTTHAYA

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where

AROUND THAILAND NIKKI BEACH PHUKET

NIKKI BEACH PHUKET

THE LATEST OPENINGS AND HAPPENINGS AROUND THE KINGDOM MEENA

CHIANG MAI

RICE IS NICE

LATE-NIGHT NIBBLES

Chiang Mai’s newly opened outdoor restaurant Meena (Baan Mon Mu 2, Soi 11, 087-177-0523, www.fb.com/meena. rice.based) manages to add a new twist on Thai and Asian dishes by substituting some of their staple ingredients with rice—in some cases even the ice in your drink! Try the tempura shrimp, which is battered and deep fried in rice rather than breadcrumbs, or satisfy your sweet tooth with the rice-based roti and ice cream. The restaurant is only open from 10am-5pm and closes every Wednesday.

Ploen Rudee Night Market is a new flea market on Chang Klang Road. It opens every evening from 5pm-midnight, when you can find vendors selling handmade wares, accessories and clothing items. The highlight is a large, open-air food area comprising a large country-style seating area decked in straw-bale chairs and upcycled drum and barrel tables, with stalls and food trucks selling sushi, pizza, burgers and more. Not too hungry? There are also beverage trucks selling cold-pressed juices and fresh cocktails.

PLOEN RUDEE NIGHT MARKET

MEENA

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WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

PATTAYA

HUA HIN

SILVER LININGS

THE RACE IS ON

Located inside the beachside Zire Wongamat Condominium, The Silver Lining (098-930-9800, www.fb.com/silverliningbyglasshouse) specializes in Japanese and Italian fusion dishes. The new 200seat restaurant boasts an outdoor, candlelit lounge area with a view of the beach. The interior is decked out with rustic-retro-style decor blending neon purple lights, dark leather and white lounge chairs and metal daybeds. The restaurant opens for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Customers dining outdoors can enjoy their meal with a view of the sunset.

On May 21, runners, nature lovers and active families can head to Hua Hin for the Preserve Hua Hin Run, and participate in one or more of the following events: the half marathon, quarter marathon or 3km fun run. The race will start at the Hin Lek Fai Hill with the path cutting through many of Hua Hin’s popular landmarks and a forest, before finishing back by the hill. The fees for the half marathon, quarter marathon and fun run are B400, 300 and 250, respectively. Registered runners will receive a T-shirt and finishers’ medal. All proceeds will go to the conservation of Hua Hin’s last mangrove forest. For more information and registration, visit goo.gl/z17C7G.

LIMELIGHT

PHUKET

IN THE LIMELIGHT Amid the Sino-Portuguese shop-houses of Phuket’s old town on Dibuk Road, you’ll find the new community mall Limelight (www. limelightphuket.com). Most of the restaurants, fashion boutiques and beauty parlors are fairly typical, but the space does hold various events and exhibitions outdoors. Chief among these is Phuket Indy Market, which takes place every Thursday and Friday from 4-10pm, offering handmade crafts, art and secondhand clothing, plus live music, local food and cocktails.

SPY GAMES Nikki Beach Phuket (076-681-161, www. nikkibeachthailand.com/phuket), one of the island’s newest beach clubs, adds a dramatic twist to its signature Amazing Sunday Brunch on May 17 with a Casino Royale theme. The special version of their brunch event will include James Bond-style decor, entertainment and live music played by the club’s in-house DJ and musicians. Enjoy a giant international buffet featuring the resort’s signature culinary creations, along with a well-stocked bar by the pool. Tickets cost B1,700 per person, with additional costs of B5,000-15,000 for a private daybed. MAY 2015 I W HER E THA ILA N D 15

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whereExploring MAY 2015 | BANGKOK

OLD TOWN The Rattanakosin area, commonly considered Old Bangkok, starts at Hua Lamphong train station and encompasses some of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most revered cultural landmarks. But beyond the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, there are also some excellent restaurants and beautiful riverside bars.

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 18 OLD TOWN

20 SUKHUMVIT 31-49

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Planning a visit to Singapore? Free digital subscription to Where速 Singapore for insider tips on where to go and what to do handy city maps & transportation guide

www.wheresingapore.com

to be the first to hear about new openings and

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EXPLORING

OLD TOWN Y SPOTLIGHT

Krua Apsorn

NEW

MAD MOA

Housed in a shophouse decked in polynesian decor, this tiki-themed bar serves simple yet unique pub grub. The Aussie wagyu-packed Mad Moa Burger comes in a homemade brioche with chipotle mayo, while the super-tender, three-day slow-cooked ribs with lemon and herbs are some of the best we’ve tasted in Bangkok—the perfect pairing to one of their rumheavy daily rotating cocktails. They also do a line of under-the-counter home-brewed beers that you won’t find on the menu.

Despite the slightly grubby ambience and the out-of-the-way location, the dishes here are truly special, in part because they’re made the old-fashioned way and have been fine-tuned over decades. The awesome mussels fried pad cha style, with basil, yellow chili, krachai (wild ginger) and green peppercorns are so plump and sweet that chefs from other restaurants flock here to sample them. 503-505 Samsen Rd., 02-6688788. Open Mon-Sat 10:30am7:30pm. www.kruaapsorn.com

!6 22-25, Chakkaphatdi Phong Rd, 085-155-2601, Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. www.facebook.com/madmoa

MORNING Start your walking tour from Prachan Pier (Tha Prachan in Thai) with a visit to 1 Tha Prachan and Amulet Market (open daily 7am-5pm), where ancient Buddha images, amulets and talismans are displayed along the footpath and in small lanes. Local advice is recommended if you plan on taking home any good-luck souvenirs. Nearby, you’ll find the gorgeous, if run-down, 2 National Museum (4 Na Phra Tha Rd., 02-2241333), which houses some of the most impressive art and antiques in the country. In addition to historic pieces from the Dvaravati Srivijaya to Sukhothai and

THA PRACHAN AND AMULET MARKET

Buddha image; the Middle Court, which contains the Dusit Maha Prasat and Chakri Maha Prasat buildings; and the Inner Court, former residence of the royal consorts. Be sure to get there early before the day is too hot. Beware, touts will tell you the palace is closed for a national holiday. Ignore them! On the same GRAND PALACE

Ayutthaya periods, the museum features regional art like Indian Gandhara, Chinese weapons, and ancient ceramics and musical instruments. At the other end of Sanam Luang is the mostvisited landmark in Thailand, 3 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew (open daily 8:30am-4:30pm. Entry B350). Construction on the royal residence of the first king of the current Chakri Dynasty began in 1762, and the complex is split into three zones: the Outer Court, where you’ll find Wat Phra Kaew and the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred

Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand. Highlights include the queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading international designers.

AFTERNOON Behind the Grand Palace, on the bank of the Chao Phraya River, is the two-yearold 5 Nagaraphirom Park. What was once a row of shop-houses and several other old buildings is now a breathable green space with views of the Grand Palace. Relax among trees and lotus ponds and enjoy a great view of the Temple of Dawn before you continue on

QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM OF TEXTILES

grounds, you’ll also find the 4 Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles (Na Phra Lan Rd., Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, 02-255-9430), which tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn NAGARAPHIROM OARK

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EXPLORING

OLD TOWN your walk. Next, pay your respects to the 43-meter-long reclining Buddha at 6 Wat Pho (open daily 8am-5pm), whose three-meter-tall feet are inlaid with mother of pearl displaying 108 Buddhist symbols. Wat Pho is also the birthplace of traditional Thai massage, and home to the country’s most famous massage school. In a beautiful colonial-style building nearby, 7 Museum Siam (4 Sanam Chai Rd., 02-225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm) is one of Bangkok’s best museums, portraying the history of Thailand through multimedia installations and interactive exhibitions. The venue also hosts an interesting lineup of rotating exhibitions.

PHRA ATHIT HOTSPOTS Some of the Old Town’s best venues line this charming riverside road.

!3 Escapade The specialty here is Angus beef burgers that regularly rank among Bangkok’s best. Double your intake with a Quarter Cow (two beef patties, two slices of cheddar cheese with truffle sauce) and be sure to try the decadent smoothie cocktails.

SHEEPSHANK

112 Phra Athit Rd., 081-406-3773. Open Tue-Sun noon-midnight

!4 Sheepshank This restaurant is designed to resemble a sophisticated boat house where you can sit back and enjoy views of the river and Rama VIII Bridge while eating Spanish dishes like seafood paella with saffron. 47 Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-5165. www.sheepshankpublichouse.com

!5 Pipit Banglamphu Thanks to the efforts of the Banglamphu community, plans to demolish Bangkok’s first printing school, which dates back to 1924, were derailed, and the building recently reopened as the Pipit Banglamphu Museum. Registered a place of national importance by the Fine Art Department of Thailand, the museum focuses on the culture of Bangkok’s Rattanakosin Island area, as well as the printing school’s history. WAT PHO

Next to Phra Sumen Fort, Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-1850. Entry B100. Closed Mondays. www.fb.com/pipitbanglamphu

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After exploring Thailand’s heritage, take a break at 8 Sala Rattanakosin (39 Soi Ta Tien, Maharat Rd., 02-622-1388) and enjoy Thai food with great views of the 9 Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun). This stylish riverside venue boasts a small number of guestrooms but half of the building is dedicated to wining and dining. There’s also a rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping cocktails. If you’re in the mood for more drinks, head to !0 The Deck (Arun Residence, 36-38 Maharaj Rd.), a charming outdoor venue just a short walk from Sala Rattanakosin. Set in a five-room boutique hotel, The Deck offers a delightful atmosphere in which to enjoy another drink or two, and also has a sophisticated Thai food menu. Finish your Old Town tour with a night visit to !1 Pak Klong Talad (open 24 hours), Bangkok’s largest flower market. Flowers from not only Thailand but around the world arrive here each day to be distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers. You’ll find everything from local jasmine to imported red roses. Fresh batches arrive after midnight, which is when you’ll get to experience the busiest trading atmosphere. If you’ve still got some energy left, go mingle with backpackers from all over the world on the notorious !2 Khao San Road. Our top addresses there: Bombay Blues, Hippie de Bar and Fabulous Bar & Dessert Café.

9 Rachini

Pahu

rat R

1 Tha Prachan and Amulet Market 2 National Museum 3 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew 4 Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles 5 Nagaraphirom Park 6 Wat Pho 7 Museum Siam 8 Sala Rattanakosin 9 Wat Arun !0 The Deck !1 Pak Klong Talad !2 Khao San Road !3 Escapade !4 Sheepshank !5 Pipit Banglamphu !6 Mad Moa

GETTING THERE KHAO SAN ROAD

It’s not easy to get to the old town as there is no the sky train or MRT coverage, and a car journey can take up to an hour due to heavy traffic. The most convenient route is perhaps to take the sky train to BTS Saphan Taksin and catch a boat from Sathorn Pier to Pra Athit Pier.

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SUKHUMVIT SOIS 31-49 Y SPOTLIGHT

Asian Flavors

From vibrant Lao salads to steaming bowls of Japanese ramen, the area is a hotbed of great Asian cuisine.

!4 Thai Lao Yeh Fiery Lao and Northern dishes in an elegant boutique hotel meant to evoke the home of an affluent family living somewhere in 1920s Asia. Just as importantly, all the ingredients feel incredibly fresh and service is impeccable. Cabochon Bangkok, 14/29 Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-259-2871-3. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10:30pm. BTS Phrom Phong

NEW

HARVEST

This down-to-earth seafood restaurant looks like a vintage farmhouse and has an atmosphere akin to a relaxed family gathering. Cracks in the roughly rendered walls exposed rugged brickwork, while wooden furniture and window frames are left unpolished. The authentic Mediterranean-style dishes are as rustic as the decor, but made using quality imported ingredients like Japanese black cod and Irish Majestic oysters. 1 Chapter 31, 24/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-262-0762. Open Daily 5:30pm-midnight

ukhumvit is one very long road (it stretches all the way to Cambodia). But one of its most happening areas is between sois (that’s Thai for streets) 31 and 49, a veritable warren of alleys packed with the city’s best art, crab curry, coffee and sake. GALLERIES AND ATTRACTIONS On the top floors of a luxury shopping mall, 2 Thailand Creative and Design Center (6/F, The Emporium, 02-664-8448) is the country’s leading design museum, home to rotating exhibitions (see page 28), a permanent collection of style icons from the Nintendo Gameboy to the Vespa, and a beautiful library overlooking Benjasiri Park. For exhibitions of contemorary fine art, head to

This bright white dining space decked out with chandeliers and ink drawings from 18th century Europe serves some of the best dim sum in town. We’re particularly fond of the steamed rice rolls with crispy shrimps. Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-3565. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:309:30pm; Sat-Sun 10:30am-9:30pm

CAFFE WHAT IF

THE ADLER SUBHASHOK GALLERY

3 The Adler Subhashok Gallery (160/3 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-6620299), which has ambitions of making Thai art as big as Chinese art 10 years ago. Expect Thailand’s foremost contemporary artists. For a spot of shopping and a cup of coffee, 4 Caffe What If (The Green Connect, 235/10 Sukhumvit 31, 02-662TCDC

!2 Hong Bao

8048) also sells decorative home items, craft beers from Hitachino, Marou chocolate bars from Vietnam and savory dishes like osso buco. Their coffee beans are also excellent. HEALTH AND WELLNESS After a morning on your feet, head to 5 Chillax Spa (12/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-258-5018) for some pampering. Apart from the usual Thai and aroma massages and body scrubs, this spa also specializes in rejuvenation therapies for heavy partygoers. Oh, and there’s even a

!6 Bankara Ramen This ramen favorite is known for its fatty tonkotsu broth, served with perfectly al dente noodles and various forms of intensely flavorful slow-cooked chashu. A cholesterol attack, yes, but definitely worth trying. The three-day-braised pork belly is delicious. The Manor, 32 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-622-5162/3. Open daily 11am11pm

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EXPLORING

SUKHUMVIT SOIS 31-49 bar. If nail treatment is what you’re after, check out 6 Ten Ten (593/2 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-259-3510), where they promise to use only the best nail products from well-established brands such as OPI, Joico and Guinot. DINING Whether you want Thai, Western or Japanese, this is the spot to be. The Australian chef at 7 Paste (120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-392-4313)

31, 02-261-2056) is firmly the city’s safest bet, offering authentically home-style Roman cuisine, from rustic pastas to crispy roast pork. Just around the corner, you’ll find its casual sister, 9Peppina (27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-119-7677), which does wonderful Naples-style pizza. Part of a new wave of casual international

Y SPOTLIGHT

SMITH

uses modern techniques to transform wonderful produce into some of the most innovative Thai food around. Every mint leaf, every pickled chili is bursting with flavor. You can tell everything is homemade and, where possible, from locally-sourced ingredients. For Ital-

room, and !1 Smith (1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-0515-6), serving a nose-to-tail-influenced menu in a moody and industrial setting. If upscale and contemporary is what you’re after, try the three-story tangle of concrete beams, steel cables and ferns that is !3 Aston Dining Room & Bar (68 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-1022323). Here, you’ll find an inventive five-course chef’s table menu using only the best produce: beef from Australia, quail from France, and locally-sourced vegetables and suckling pigs. After dinner, check out !5 Hanakaruta, one of the best Japanese bars in twon (see page 6).

PEPPINA

ian, 8 Appia (20/4 Sukhumvit Soi

restaurants that emphasize excellent food over fine-dining formality, its contemporaries include !0 Quince (Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478), where you can find Mediterraneaninspired food (plus excellent wine and cocktails) in a bright and airy dining

Kai Yang Sua Yai

This colorful shop-house transports the Northeastern dishes of an old street-food favorite into a proper dining setting. Tuck into a whole chicken, along with namprik pla ra (chili paste with fermented fish) and somtam poo (papaya salad with freshwater crab). Wash it down with Singha, fruit juice or wine by the glass. They offer about 15 vegetarian dishes, too.

!7 Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-6428. Open daily 11am-10pm.

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ThewhereGuide MAY 2015 | BANGKOK

NEW

VIVARIUM

Two big-name local chefs, Chumpol Jangprai of Siam Wisdom and Boontham Pakpoh of Honmono Sushi, have collaborated to open this Thai restaurant which makes all its dishes using the finest Japanese ingredients. Think Hokkaido crab curries, stir-fried Kobe beef with basil, Kobe beef green curries and sablefish cooked with ginger and chili. The vast space is flooded with natural light and also comprises a wine cellar, single malt bar and cocktail bar. Fusion, Thai. 3675 Rama 4 Rd., 02-261-9507. Open daily 5-11pm

BANGKOKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BEST VENUES 23 DINING 26 NIGHTLIFE

28 ART + ATTRACTIONS 29 SHOPS + SERVICES

30 HEALTH + WELLNESS 31 PROPERTY

32 NAVIGATE

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GUIDE

DINING NEW

TAPER

This brunch spot offers Western dishes with Thai twists, such as salted egg carbonara (fresh pasta, grilled squid, salty egg yolk) and E-Sarn Olio Aglio (fresh pasta, Isaan sausage, salted fish). Also expect breakfast staples like eggs Benedict and granola with yogurt and their housemade buttermilk biscuit. Downstairs is dedicated to an open kitchen, while the mezzanine level has a more intimate feel, with space for about 20 people. G/F, 44/11 Thonglor Soi 13, 099-929-5464. Open Tue-Sun 9am-4pm

THAI FOOD IN BEAUTIFUL HOUSES

Hot Spots ASIAN FINE-DINING RESTAURANTS

LE DU

A Thai chef with a degree from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) powers this inventive Asian restaurant. His dishes focus heavily on local and seasonal produce, which are prepared using modern cooking techniques to produce original and delicious food that clearly evokes Thai flavors while challenging diners’ senses. The wine list is equally exciting, with bottles sourced only from organic producers or boutique importers. 399/3 Silom Soi 7, 092-919-9969. Open Mon-Sat 6-11pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

BLUE ELEPHANT

LE DU SALA RIM NAM

1 SALA RIM NAM 597 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-437-3080. Open Fri-Wed noon-3pm, 5-10:30pm. http://bit.ly/1EgcgSb 2 BLUE ELEPHANT 233 Sathorn Rd., 02673-9353. Open daily 11:.30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. www.blueelephant.com/ bangkok 3 RUEN URAI The Rose Hotel, 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Rd., 02-266-8268. Open daily noon-11pm. www.ruen-urai.com

BO.LAN

GAGGAN

BO.LAN

Chef couple Bo and Dylan (both formerly worked at David Thompson’s Michelinstarred Thai restaurant, Nahm) make all their Thai food from scratch, including the curry pastes, using only the best ingredients. Their traditional style, jazzed up with a few modern plating touches, has earned them global recognition. We recommend the Bo.lan Balance, a degustation menu regularly changing to reflect seasonal products. Bo.lan’s stylish house prominently features dark wood and ceiling covered with kradong (flat baskets). 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2961-2. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-11am; Thu-Sun noon-2:30pm. BTS Thong Lo

After building a solid foundation in Indian and Italian cooking at hotel restaurants, Gaggan Anand did a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, the former modern-gastro capital of the world. His eponymous restaurant serving molecular Indian cooking ranked No. 1 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2015. Expect the unexpected like foams, spherification, dehydration and more alongside traditional dishes of Indian curry.

68/1 Soi Lang Suan, 02-652-1700. Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Ratchadamri GAGGAN

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TASTEOFTHECITY

DINING HONG KONG Recent Openings

SIAM PROUD

A homey restaurant serves generations-old Central and Southern Thai dishes.

64 Rama 9 Soi 41, 02-118-6227. Open daily 11:30am-11pm

LE BOEUF

This restaurant does steak-frites with the same sauce recipe as the Geneva classic.

Marriott Executive Apartments Mayfair, 60 Langsuan Rd., 093-971-8081. Open daily 11am-11pm. BTS Chit Lom

THE GLASS

A French bistro with a vast selection of small-batch wine by the glass.

8/8 Civic Horizon, Sukhumvit Soi 63, 02108-8982. BTS Ekkamai

Advertise your business with us starting from B5,000

Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601 CUBA LIBRE

Bangkok’s first Cuban restaurant.

888/57, Mahatun Plaza, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-651-5657. Open Mon-Sat noon-2pm, 5-10pm; Sat 5pm-midnight. BTS Phloen Chit

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Credit card payment accepted.

24 W H E R E T H A I L AND I DECEMB ER 2 0 1 1 I www.wheretraveler.com

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GUIDE

DINING

NAHM

David Thompson’s Nahm serves fiery, multi-course set menus that offer devoutly authentic flavors and plenty of choice. We use the word “course” loosely, as this is true, communal Thai-style dining. Try the salad of fresh river prawns with pork and Asian pennywort, and the perfectly balanced coconut and tumeric curry of blue swimmer crab served with kanom jin (traditional Thai rice noodles). Metropolitan, 27 Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3388. Open daily 7-10:30pm; Mon-Fri noon-2pm

STREET FOOD CENTRAL: SUKHUMVIT SOI 38

NAHM

EAT ME

Ranked 25th in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, Chef Tim Butler’s kitchen pulls off bold combinations like Alaskan scallops with avocado, yuzu and pancetta, while a simple chicken salad is elevated to new heights by the addition of red papaya, toasted coconut and betel leaf. The decor is a cool, yet cozy, melange of modernist and natural, with rotating exhibitions by local artists. The service is diligent and sweet, and the cocktails are perfection.

Conveniently located right next to BTS Thong Lo, Sukhumvit Soi 38 is a lively hub of good street food featuring numerous stalls specializing in Thai and Thai-Chinese specialties. Though many stalls don’t have name signs, they do offer menus in English with food pictures. The operation starts from about 5pm and runs through the early morning hours so you can drop by before or after your night out in Sukhumvit. Highlights include the ba mee puu moo-daeng (yellow noodles with crab and roast pork, B40-B50), kao man kai (rice with steamed chicken or fried chicken, B50-60), kuay tiew kua kai (stir-fried chicken noodles, B40-50), and pork entrails soup with vegetables and seafood (B70). There are also many shop-house-style restaurants along the road. Look out for the one specializing in khao soi (chicken or pork noodles in coconut milk curry, B50), identified by the Chinese doughnut seller out front. There are quite a few dessert stalls too, selling everything from ice cream to the classic Thai dessert kao niew ma muang (sticky rice with sweet mango, B60-80), which can be found at the beginning of the street.

1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. Open daily 3pm-1am. BTS Sala Daeng

Y SPOTLIGHT

Red Sky The 55th floor view from Centara’s rooftop puts this bar in the same league as high flyers like Vertigo at the Banyan Tree. Al fresco dining and drinking takes place under a swooping, red-lit arch in an environment that is somewhat more relaxed than the adjoining Fifty Five restaurant. Chef Hugo Coudurier prepares a menu focused on high-quality French ingredients, best enjoyed with a drop from the hotel’s notably excellent wine cellar. Mediterranean, Greek. 55/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255. Siam. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Siam

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE ROOF 409 BAR & BISTRO NEW

This rooftop bistro and bar offers a happening vibe thanks to clean black-andwhite industrial decor (think New York subway tiles and metal cafe chairs), a DJ booth that pumps out house tunes and a lounge area overlooking Phloen Chit. The fourth floor views can’t compete with the most famous rooftop bars on top of hotels, but you do get a suitably urban vibe due its very central location. Overall it’s a laid-back and highly affordable option with a menu of fuss-free comfort food such as risottos, pastas and fish and chips. 4/F, Mercury Ville, 504 Phloen Chit Rd., 081995-6984. Open daily 11am-midnight. BTS Chit Lom

Hot Spots JAZZ & BLUES BARS WE LOVE

ADHERE THE 13TH

Y SPOTLIGHT

Just around the corner from backpackercentral Khao San Road, this live blues and jazz bolt-hole packs out every night. Indoors can only seat about 20, so you might find yourself perched on the wall outdoors, Singha beer in hand, listening to the loud and energetic music being belted out to a crowd of old-time expats and selfstyled local blues-men. 13 Samsen Rd., 089-769-4613. Open daily 6pmmidnight SAXOPHONE

SAXOPHONE

One of the city’s longest-standing live music venues, the pub is best known for its jazzy offerings led by Koh Mr. Saxman. However, a dose of solid reggae can be heard here too. Just swing by on Fri and stick around long (and late) enough for Thailand’s godfathers of reggae, T-Bone, to take to the stage (every Fri night, from midnight1:30am). ADHERE THE 13TH

3/8 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-245-3592. Open daily 6pm2am. BTS Victory Monument

BROWN SUGAR

WTF

This place ranks as one of Bangkok’s best jazz bars for a reason. The Phra Sumen institution offers classic Western comfort food and cocktails, and live performances by quality local jazz bands dominated by finalists of The Voice Thailand like Tissue Paper and Attention Please. Performances run from 8:30pm from Tue-Sun.

Tucked inside a narrow lane, this cool, intimate shop-house bar is favored by Bangkok’s local and expat hipsters. The ground floor features a small corner bar with retro touches like old movie posters, vintage bench seating and flowery tiles. Head there early to ensure a table if you’re too self-conscious to stand around outside (where most of the crowd congregates) and be sure to check out the upstairs gallery.

469 Phra Sumen Rd., 08-1805-7759. Open daily 5pm-1am

BROWN SUGAR

7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo. www.wtfbangkok.com

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE 3 CIGAR AND WHISKEY LOUNGES

SMALLS

This laid-back, late-night cocktail lounge is set in a corner-shop-house and split over three levels including a roof terrace with really great views. The eclectic crowd ranges from older guests who come to nurse a drink while listening to live jazz, to young groups of friends always keen to check out the most buzzed about places in town. The bar specializes in absinthe, but there are some great cocktails, too. 186/3 Suanphlu Soi 1, 095-585-1398. Open WedSun 8:30pm-2am; Mon 8:30pm-2am

THE LIVING ROOM BANGKOK

Whisgars The city’s best-known cigar lounge now has three venues around town. This one’s the most spacious, but still maintains the dark, solemn tone of the original–kind of like a cavernous Manhattan speakeasy. Smoking laws also seem to have passed this place by, which means you can enjoy your nutty and leathery Nicaraguan L’atelier LAT52 cigars indoors from the comfort of a wingback leather armchair while sipping on an Oban 14-year-old single malt.

THE LIVING ROOM BANGKOK

With regular international guests of the highest caliber, this hotel bar is one of the most serious jazz institutions in town. There’s also a free-flow drinks deal for B1,200 from 8pm-midnight.

Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8353. Open daily 9am-midnight. MRT Sukhumvit

SMALLS

981 Silom Rd., 02-661-3220. Open daily 2pm-2am. BTS Surasak

Humidor You’re not far from the Fireplace Grill where you can get that manly steak dinner, and the InterContinental Bangkok’s Humidor has plenty of black leather and chrome to keep you in the mood. It’s also one of the rare places in town where you can puff on a big cigar indoors. Expect a solid selection of single malt whiskies to go with it and live music from Mon-Fri, 9pm-midnight. L/F, InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-0444. Open daily 8-12:30am. BTS Chit Lom

The Blind Pig The Speakeasy was Bangkok’s first bar to jump onto the whole roaring 20s prohibition trend. Five years later it still makes a big impression both indoors and out, especially this sort of “sanctum within a sanctum” that lets you light up indoors— so long as what you’re smoking is fat, brown and Cuban. They even have smoking jackets for you to borrow so you don’t leave reeking of the place. The Speakeasy, 24-25/F, Hotel Muse, 55/555 Langsuan, 02-630-4000. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Ratchadamri

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GUIDE

ART+ ATTRACTIONS HIGHLIGHT

EAMES

ESSENTIAL

Based on the book An Eames Primer, the exhibition displays the life and work of Charles and Ray Eames, the quirky American design couple famous for their revolutionary molded plastic chair and lounge chair — dubbed “the greatest design of the 20th Century” by Time magazine. The couple also made major contributions in the fields of architecture and fine art. Inside, you get to see hundreds of photographs from their family collection, short films they produced, samples of their other exhibitions, and over 90 pieces of Eames furniture. Through May 31, TCDC, The Emporium Shopping Complex, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-664-8448. Open Tue-Sun 10:30am-9pm. BTS Phrom Phong

Hot Spots TOP EXHIBITIONS THIS MONTH

Y SPOTLIGHT

SITES OF SOLITUDE

Chatchai Pupia’s two-part exhibition features the artist’s rarely or neverexhibited paintings, drawings, sketches, photography as well as guest documentaries and interviews with the artist. Through Jan 3, 2016. 100 Tonson Gallery, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-684-1527. Open Thur-Sun 11am-7pm. BTS Phloen Chit

BEFORE BIRTH, AFTER DEATH

Artist Kamin Lertchaiprasert created over 730 drawings and 1,089 plastic skull sculptures over a period of six years for this exhibition that examines life before birth and after death. Born in Lopburi, Thailand, in 1964, Kamin is one of the country’s most famous contemporary artists, whose work has been exhibited at the Sydney Biennial (1993 and 2012) and Venice Biennale (2003).

SITE OF SOLITUDE

BIZARRE LAND

In the chic Thonglor neighborhood, this exhibition has been a big hit on Thai social media, displaying photographs and reproductions that depict outlandish local behavior, like riding motorcycles without helmets, the popularity of rape scenes in Thai films, and rampant display of soft pornography on magazine covers. Each photographic work has been created by award-winning photographer Chatchai Pusiri.

Through May 30. Ardel’s Third Place Gallery, Thonglor Soi 10, 02-422-2090. Open Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. BTS Thong Lo

Jim Thompson House & Art Center

The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop.

May 17-Jun 28. Numthong Art Gallery, 72/3 Soi Ari 5, 02-617-2794. Open Mon-Sat 11am-6pm. BTS Ari

Jim Thompson House, Soi Kasem San 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02216-7368. Open daily 9am-6pm. BTS National Stadium BIZARRE LAND

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BANGKOK

SHOPPING NEW

THA MAHARAJ

This themed community mall looks to recapture the charm of the Old Town’s architecture. The riverside pavilion consists of over 50 open-air restaurants and shops spread over seven buildings styled in keeping with the area’s rich history. There’s also a riverside promenade and community garden. As well as shops dedicated to fashion and beauty, you’ll also find antique and Thai amulet specialists. 11/1 Maharaj Rd., 02-866-3163-4, 090-9265265. Open daily 10am-10pm. Tha Chang Pier

Hot Spots VINTAGE SHOPPING

TALAD ROD FAI

Y SPOTLIGHT

WOODEN SUBMARINE

This vintage market reopened at the end of last year after being relocated from its old spot beside Chatuchak Market. The new location behind Seacon Square is home to small stalls selling all sorts of retro bric-a-brac, from antique toys and vinyl to secondhand clothes and cameras. There are also plenty of vintage-inspired bars and cafes. To reach it, take the BTS to Udomsuk station and then take a taxi.

The selection of products reflects the owner’s love for vintage Americana. He specializes in menswear from New York, both new pieces and old stock, with a focus on 20s-70s military-themed apparel like shirts, jackets, leather bags and boots from brands like Ralph Lauren, WRL, Herman, Jong, Converse and Penney’s. Prices are quite high, but the stock is unique compared to other vintage stores.

Talad Rod Fai, Sri Nakarin Soi 51, 081-1827-5885. Open Thu-Sun 5pm-midnight

1/F, Homeplace Building, Thonglor Soi 13, 081-255-2866. Open daily 12-8pm. www.fb.com/ woodensubmarine

UNFASHION

Dozens of pairs of leather shoes line the windows of this small red-brick vintage store, compelling passersby to pop in for a look. There’s a clear sense of style to the selection, with most items imported from Italy and dating back to the 1970s. It’s not too expensive, generally ranging from B380-5,000, and there’s also a selection of other vintage leather goods, particularly bags and belts. Ekkamai Soi 10, 094-421-2411. Open daily noon9pm. www.fb.com/unfashionvintage

MACHINE AGE WORKSHOP

This store specializes in restoring, recycling and repurposing iconic artifacts from America’s golden age of manufacturing, from the late 1800s to mid-1900s. Expect to find items like vintage U.S. Army drafting tables, wood radios and leather luggage. It’s also worth stopping by to visit the cafe, where you can get a good cup of coffee, craft beer and hearty pulled pork and beef brisket sandwiches. 281/7 Ekkamai Soi 15, 02-381-8596. Open Tue-Sun 10am-7pm. tinyurl.com/phla6ev

AGAIN & AGAIN

Unlike other ragged-looking vintage stores, this It-shop hooks its customers up with more in-vogue items. Glittery dresses, shirts and a selection of high-quality skirts and pants are nicely arranged by color, with new stock arriving twice a week. Although most of the items make for quite girly outfits, they do have shirts, jackets and shoes for men, too. Room B1A, Market Place, Thonglor Soi 4, 086626-6956. Open daily 11am-9pm. www.vintageagainandagain.com. BTS Thong Lo

THE EMQUARTIER This new shopping mall is part of a B20 billion restyling of the Phrom Phong area as Em District, a development of premium hotels, offices, residences and entertainment facilities. In it, you’ll find high-end boutiques including flagship stores from MCM, Jimmy Choo, Valentino, Sephora and A Bathing Ape, plus cult Asian brands Stylenanda (Korea) and Beams (Japan). The striking development features a 40-meter-high man-made waterfall as well as green spaces integrated into its architecture. The Emquartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

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GUIDE

HEALTH + WELLNESS KIRIYA SPA Located in a calming cavern-like and voluptuously curved space designed by local architectural firm VasLab, this spa is the perfect place to wind down after a long day in the bustling city. All the treatments take inspiration from Thailand’s four main regions. The Southern treatment, for example, starts with a strong, slow massage informed by the local Nora dance and performed with hot seashells. It’s followed by another massage technique inspired by a dance, the Hooloo Vahi, which focuses on blood circulation. 36/1 Soi Kasemsan 1, 02-612-3456. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS National Stadium

Hot Spots GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUBS

ALPINE GOLF CLUB

Since opening in 1996, the golf club, designed by legendary American golf course architect Ron M. Garl, has hosted many important international golf tournaments. It was even the spot of Tiger Woods’ Asian Tour win in 2000. Plenty of other sports are on offer thanks to a swimming pool, fitness facilities and an aerobics center at the clubhouse. There’s also a sauna and Jacuzzi. 99 M.9 Bangkhan-Sathaneevithayu Rd., Klong 5, 02-577-3333. Open Tue-Sun (closed on Mon except public holidays). 6am-6pm. www.alpinegolfclub.com

THAI COUNTRY CLUB

Managed by Peninsula Hotels, this 7,157yard course is known for its excellent service, and regularly gets voted Asia’s Top Course by Asian Golf magazine. Tiger Woods, Vijay Singh and many other big names have won trophies on the Denis Griffiths-designed fairways. 88 M.1, Bangna-Trad Rd., Km 35.5, 038-570-234. Open Tue-Sun (closed on Mon except public holidays) 6:30am-1:30pm. www.thaicountryclub.com

ROYAL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB

Located close to the International Airport, this scenic golf and country club is surrounded by leafy trees and lakes—which also make it one of Thailand’s most challenging courses with many water hazards.

69 M.7, On Nut Rd., Sisa Chorakhe Noi, Bang Sao Thong, 02-738-1010. Open Mon-Fri 6am-2pm; SatSun 6am-8:30am, 11:30am-1:30pm

THANA CITY GOLF AND SPORTS CLUB

Right on the flight path of Suvarnabhumi Airport, Thana City Golf and Country offers a challenging course dotted with bunkers, lakes and streams. There’s a special Monday golf course (B1,500 including caddy) and sports club featuring swimming pools, fitness, tennis, badminton, tabletennis, squash and a kids’ zone.

LE MERIDIEN SUVARNABHUMI

Just a short taxi ride from Suvarnabhumi International Airport, this golf resort and spa has both day and night golf courses, as well as elegant guest rooms for overnight stays. The course was designed by legendary British golfer Nick Faldo. At the same site you’ll also find a clubhouse, spa, pool and plenty of restaurants. Try Favola for Italian and Latitude 13° 39’ for evening drinks. 789 M.14, Bangna-Trad Rd., Km 10.5, Bangplee, 02118-7777. 02-750-2112. Open daily 6am-2pm; MonFri 4pm-7:30pm; Sat-Sun 5:30-7:30pm. www.lemeridiensuvarnabhumi.com

Y SPOTLIGHT

100/2 M.4 Bangna-Trad Highway, Bangchalong, 02-336-1968. Open daily 5:30am-6pm (Golf Club); 6am-10pm (Sports Club). www.thanacitygolf.com

Wat Pho

Famous as both the home of the 46-meter-long reclining Buddha and as a center of traditional massage, it even offers courses to learn for yourself. Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon. 02-255-4771, Tha Thien Pier. Open daily 8am-6pm. B100. www.watpomassage.com

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PROPERTY NEW

THE LINE

Set in the hip Chatuchak District, famous for its vast park and bustling weekend market, this 43-story development is located 500 meters from Mo Chit BTS station and 300 meters from Chatuchak MRT station, a convenient option for anyone who wants to travel into the city for work without having to endure the heavy rush-hour traffic along Sukhumvit. The complex will house a total of 841 units ranging from 27-sq-meter one bedrooms to 104-sq-meter three-bedroom duplexes. Units prices TBA. Expected completion date: Nov 2017. 02-2013905. ow.ly/LqTXD

Hot Spots

LUXURY RIVERSIDE

3 THE RIVER

THE RIVER

This luxurious high-rise condominium located right by a quiet stretch of the Chao Phraya River was designed to offer privacy without sacrificing the breathtaking view of the city and the river. The 250-meter-tall development boasts modern architecture and state-of-the-art fitness facilities, a riverfront infinity pool and podium, as well as sports courts. All units come with high ceilings and solid timber flooring, extravagant bathrooms with frameless glass shower enclosures and built-in wardrobes. This project is complete and ready to move in. 02-651-9600. www.theriverbangkok.com

S9 CONDOMINIUM

Located close to the upcoming BTS purple line, this chic condominium boasts a modernstyle pool area with multiple pools, man-made waterfall, artsy garden, library and fitness center. The apartment community houses a total of 655 units ranging from 25.15-sq-meter studios to 59.2-sq-meter two bedrooms. The apartment is walking distance from many major indoor and outdoor malls and units start at B1.48 million for a 25-sq-meter unit.

Expected completion date: June 2015. 02-922-1622. www.s9condominium.com

MENAM RESIDENCES

Set right by the Chao Phraya River, this stateof-the-art development features exceptional communal facilities such as a riverside walkway, transparent-edged swimming pool with a luxurious lounge area, indoor and outdoor onsens, sauna, steam room, library and kids area. To top the list off, there is also a multidisciplinary social lounge area on the 41st floor, boasting a spectacular view of the sunset and the Chao Phraya River. Solar energy, a water recycling sytem, wheelchair-friendly pathways and specifically-designed communal toilets make it one of Bangkok’s most ethical developments. It also offers a free shuttle boat to Saphan Taksin BTS Station. Prices range from B1.83 million for a one-bedroom unit to B60 million for a duplex penthouse.

Y SPOTLIGHT

Estimated completion date: June 2017. 02-688-2000. www.menamresidences.com

MANOR SANAMBINNAM

Set right beside the Chao Phraya River, this modern-style development with classic-colonial interiors isn’t lacking when it comes to recreational facilities, as it comes with multiple swimming pools, sports courts, fitness centers and a European-style garden. The massive project consists of four towers and a total of 1,848 residential units, with sizes ranging from 25.44-sq-meter one-bedrooms to 70.97-sq-meter twobedrooms. The living complex also has a community mall downstairs for added convenience. Prices start at B1.6 million for a 25-sq-meter. unit. Expected completion date: March 2016. 02-526-8833. www.manorbymajor.com

Noble Ploenchit With an expected completion date of January 2017, this high-rise condo by Noble property group is a rare new residential development in Phloen Chit, one of Bangkok’s best shopping and dining neighborhoods. At 51 stories, the sleek minimalist tower is the tallest building in the area, situated in 6,400 sq meters of private gardens. Units range from 40-sq-meter studios to grand 245-sq-meter duplexes. Rates start at B10.9 million. Expected completion date: January 2017. 02-2519955. www.noblehome.com

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The three main apps are Easy Taxi (www.easytaxi.com/th), Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok). All of these are in English language and charge a fee on top of the meter price.

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130. The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (klong) still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 MAY 2015 I W HER E THA ILA N D 33

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

1 Savoring the authentic royal Thai 6 Chowing down on street food on !1 Playing a round of golf at the !6 Visiting Wat Phra Kaeo and the cuisine at the Blue Elephant, a finedining institution in a beautifully restored house. See page 23.

Sukhumvit Soi 38, from Northern khaosoi (curried noodles) to Chinese doughnuts with pandan custard. See page 25.

2 Winding down with a glass of Speyside whiskey and a plump cigar at Whisgars, Bangkok’s first standalone whiskey and cigar lounge. See page 27.

7 Trying on locally-designed, cutting-edge clothes at Siam Center. See page 10.

Thai Country Club with a group of friends. See page 30.

Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred Buddha image. See page 18.

!2 Ordering a round of unique signature cocktails and admiring the works of up-and-coming creative artists at WTF Bar & Gallery with the city’s coolest hipsters. See page 26.

!7 Checking out the works of bigname photographers while sipping a strong cocktail at Soy Sauce Factory. See page 6.

!8 Tasting authentic Thai dishes rich 8 Tasting the sophisticated Thai !3 Drinking in the cityscape view at with spices and herbs at the exqui-

3 Admiring the satirical works comfort dishes and potent cocktails in Red Sky, a rooftop bar located on sitely decorated Bo.lan restaurant. of award-winning photographer Chatchai Puisiri at Ardel’s Third Place Gallery, tucked amid the chic Thonglor neighborhood. See page 26.

a 100-year-old house painted pink at Namsaah Bottling Trust. See page 8.

9 Leaning back on one of the spa- !4Browsing cious lounge chairs with a warm

4 Sipping uniquely handcrafted bowl of popcorn at Quartier cocktails at J. Boroski Mixology, a stunning, secret mixology lounge that offers no menu and hard-tofind ingredients. See page 7

the 55th floor of the Centara Grand. See page 25.

Cineart, the city’s newest VIP cinema. See page 11.

through high-end, locally-designed furniture pieces at Room Concept Store, a multi-label shop located in the lofty Central Embassy. See page 10.

See page 23.

!9 Exploring Sukhumvit Sois 31-49, home to numerous art galleries, top restaurants and stylish coffee shops. See page 20. @0 Tucking into a spicy bowl of tom yum goong and a warm plate of rice

!0 Listening to smooth live jazz !5 Getting a tension-relieving Thai at Khao Man Gai Tah Fah after a late sounds performed by talented local

massage at the spiritual home of

night out in Charoenkrung. See page 8.

5 Sleeping through a rejuvenating jazz vocalists at Brown Sugar, one the art, Wat Pho, also home to Southern-style massage at Kiriya Spa. See page 30.

of the Old Town’s best-loved jazz bars. See page 26.

the famous 46-meter-long reclining Buddha. See page 30.

@1 Taking a day trip to Ayutthaya, Thailand’s former capital and home to the country’s most important ancient ruins. See page 13.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

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34 W H E R E T H AILAND I MAY 2 0 1 5

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Where to find Hotels in Bangkok The AETAS Bangkok All Seasons Bangkok Siam Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11 Amari Watergate Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa Arnoma Baan Noppawong Bally’s Studio Suites Banyan Tree Bangkok Best Western Sukhumvit Cabochon Hotel & Residence Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Centara Grand at Central World Centara Hotels & Resorts Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok Conrad Bangkok Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Dusit Thani Bangkok Emporium Suites Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Four Points by Sheraton Four Seasons Bangkok GLOW Pratunam Grand Hyatt Erawan Grand Mercure Park Avenue Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Holiday Inn Silom Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 Hotel Muse Imperial Queens Park InterContinental Bangkok JW Marriott Bangkok The Landmark Bangkok Le Fenix Sukhumvit LIT Bangkok Luxx Majestic Grande Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit 57 Mercure & Ibis Bangkok Siam

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