Thailand
PLUS
M A RCH - A P R I L 2 0 14 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®
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W W W. W H E R E T H A I L A N D . C O M
ISLAND STYLE What’s new and what’s hot on Koh Samui
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CONTENTS ®
l THAILAND l MARCH-APRIL 2014
The Guide
JHECKING
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BANGKOK 19 DINING
The city welcomes two exciting fine dining venues and we have the latest dining news
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22 ARTS+ATTRACTIONS Try your hand at a spot of sleuthing at a fun attraction where you become the detective
MAKE A SPLASH
THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO THE SONGKRAN FESTIVITIES
24 NIGHTLIFE A gypsy brewer arrives and a Champagne bar adds some sparkle to Bangkok
AROUND THAILAND
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08 NEW SAMUI The freshest news and latest openings from the famous island
NEWS
10 BANGKOK BUZZ A Super Bowl star heads to town plus the opening of an art gallery with a twist
Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin
Editor Wachiraporn Janrut
Sales Associate Panatda Udomthanlak
General Manager James Fuss Managing Editor Grégoire Glachant Sub-editor Carl Dixon Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapon Contributors Monruedee Jansuttipan
30 NAVIGATE
Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant Cover Vana Belle, Samui. Photo by Monruedee Jansuttipan
35 21 THINGS WE LOVE
MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger
MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston
Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th www.wherethailand.com
National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson
E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com
MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber
MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV
facebook.com/wherethailand
ALSO INSIDE
16 GULF OF THAILAND A fine dining festival in Samui plus hotel developments in Koh Chang Sales Manager Sherry Maturose Kato
Three top spots to shop for Thai silk
29 MAPS
14 UPCOUNTRY NEWS Steam power, traditional Thai Boxing and a colorful festival are just some of this month's highlights
Managing Editor/Publisher Nick Measures
A new spa takes a natural approach to relaxation
28 SHOPS+SERVICES
12 ANDAMAN ARRIVALS A new cocktail venue in Phuket's old town alongside a host of hotel openings
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26 HEALTH+WELLNESS
MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman
Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt
MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com
@where_thailand
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where FEATURE THE TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND
NEW YEAR CELEBRATIONS
The secrets of Songkran revealed Photos by the Tourism Authority of Thailand
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pril is Thailand’s hottest month, and marks the transition between the end of the dry season and the start of the rice-growing season. As such, it was traditionally considered the beginning of the New Year. It’s a time to pay respect, let off steam and celebrate. That means you can expect two very different kinds of events during Songkran: mad, country-wide water wars and serene traditional ceremonies at temples. Here is our full guide to enjoying the Thai New Year. Your complete guide to Songkran, the biggest, wettest and definitely most fun festival in Thailand. FESTIVAL ORIGINS The period that is now celebrated as Songkran is when the sun transits from the constellation of Pisces to the constellation of Aries, believed to mark the beginning of the new year. Songkran is derived from the Sanskrit word sankranti which means “transit” or “transmigration.” Through the global movement of people these beliefs and customs eventually made their way across to Southeast Asia and Thailand.
WHEN IS SONGKRAN? Thai people have been celebrating the festival for hundreds of years. As it was traditionally based on the lunar calendar, the date would change each year. However, due to the pressures of modern life it has now been fixed as April 13-15 with April 13 acting as New Year’s Day, April 14 being Family Day and April 15 being Elders Day. Additional days may also be counted as national holidays if Songkran falls on a weekend. This year, for example, the government has also declared April 16 as a national holiday. Do note that the length, dates and even the type of celebrations do vary widely around the country (see Where to Celebrate for more detailed information).
TRADITIONAL CELEBRATIONS Songkran is seen as a time of blessing and renewal hence the preponderance of water in the rituals performed. There are three main types of ritual: • Song Nam Phra or the bathing rite of Buddha images. Traditionally, people would visit their local Wat (temple) to bathe the Buddha images and the temple monks, for good luck. In some places like Chiang Mai the statues
TRADITIONAL BATHING RITE
are also paraded through the streets allowing the crowds to sprinkle water on them as they pass. • Rod Nam Dam Hua or the bathing rite of elders. Songkran is a time for families to get together. It is traditional for younger members of the family to pour water scented with jasmine onto the hands of their elders in order to ask for their good wishes and blessings for the year ahead. • Len Nam Songkran or bathing of peers. Songkran takes place in April, which is Thailand’s hottest month of the year. In the past, people would sprinkle scented water on each other to cool down. It’s this tradition that has escalated into the water fights of today.
MODERN DAY CELEBRATIONS While some Thais will try and visit a temple at least once during the festivities, most are now firmly focused on enjoying the break, getting together with family and friends and generally having a good time. In recent years this has meant water pistols and hoses are now de rigueur with many people choosing to camp out at prominent spots ready to soak any one walking by. Some take it even further by boarding pickup trucks loaded with barrels of water to continue their friendly water war on the streets, usually accompanied by lots of loud music and plenty of alcohol. It all helps create a unique party atmosphere all over the country.
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SAND CHEDIS
WATER FUN
WHERE TO CELEBRATE? BANGKOK
NEED TO KNOW
When: Aprl 12-16 Where: Sanam Luang, Khao San, Silom, RCA
While the biggest Songkran celebrations still take place up North, the festival has grown to become a big deal in the capital. Do note that a lot of people leave Bangkok during Songkran to return to their hometowns so it can actually be much quieter than normal, except at the sites listed below. PARADING A BUDDHA IMAGE
The main site for the more traditional festival rituals, which includes offering alms to monks and bathing of sacred Buddha images, will be at Sanam Luang and Nagaraphirom Park near The Grand Palace. If you are looking to get wet and party then the three major destinations to head to are: • Khao San Road: The backpacker haven is famous for its all-day water fights (10am-10pm), events and activities. You can expect a crowd of teenagers and international backpackers.
• The heart of the central business district of Silom (2pm-late), from Sala Daeng to Narathiwat intersections (MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng), gets very busy with university students, young adults and the city’s sizeable LGBT population. • Last but not least, nightlife central RCA (9pm-2am) is where the young party crowd tends to go after a day splashing around town. More info: Bangkok Tourist Information Center, 02-225-7621, www.bangkoktourist. com
AYUTTHAYA When: April 13-15 Where: Ayutthaya Historic Park
The former capital city of Siam, the old kingdom of Thailand, hosts an official Songkran celebration at the park in front of Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit. Visitors will get to offer alms to monks, bathe Buddha images and then splash about with elephants. TAT - Ayutthaya, 035-246-076/7
Y Please note all details listed here are correct at time of press but are subject to LEN NAM SONGKRAN
• Even though the government has requested that people keep their water splashing to dedicated zones, just be aware that you are seen as fair game anywhere and anytime from April 13-17 with tourists a popular target. The only way to guarantee staying dry is to stay indoors. • The smearing of powdered white chalk, traditionally used by monks in rituals, on strangers was common in the past but men should refrain from doing so to women they don’t know. • Spraying water inside shopping malls and on public transport is prohibited. • Get more information about Songkran and updated events across Thailand at www. tourismthailand.org or call 1672.
change. Do check www.tourismthailand.com for the latest updates.
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SCENTED WATER
BATHING RITES
CHIANG MAI When: Apr 12-14 Where: Roads around Ku Muang canal
Asia’s Biggest Gay Party gCircuit Returns for Songkran The 8th edition of the three-day gCircuit Songkran Party will take place on April 11-13 at the Bangkok Convention Center at CentralWorld. This year’s theme will be “Supersized Song Kran,” with things kicking off by DJs Joe Gauthreaux and George Leong spinning funky house at the Fairytale party on April 11. The main Cybertron party (April 12) features DJ’s Paulo and Head on the decks, before DJs Tony Moran and Louist take over on April 13 at Amazonia to bring the glam curtain down on this huge three day party, which sees thousands of tourists flying in to join in the fun. There’s also set to be two pool parties featuring local DJs Sprectrumk and Tony Preeda at the Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel on April 12-13 from 2-8pm. Advance tickets are available through April 7; All-Access Pass is B6,900/6,000 for VIP/standard, the Night-Only Pass is B5,600/4,700 for VIP/standard and the Pool-Party Pass is B1,300. At door prices: 3-Day Party is B2,500/2,000 per night (VIP/standard) and the pool party is B1,600. Tickets available at Thaiticketmajor.com (online or at Siam Paragon and Central Chitlom branches) For more information, visit www.gcircuit.com
Regarded as one of Thailand’s largest Songkran festivals (along with Khon Kaen and Bangkok), Chiang Mai’s Pra We Nee Pii Mai Muang offers the best of both worlds, with Lanna cultural events at sacred temples (such as Phra Sing and Phra That Doi Suthep) and big water fights around the central moat. It all kicks off with a cultural parade on the first day, where the highlights are the float carrying the sacred Phra Buddha Sihing and the Nang Songkran Chiang Mai beauty pageant. Chiang Mai Metropolitan Office, 053-259-000
PHUKET When: April 13-15 Where: Patong Beach
Songkran festivities on Phuket are usually held at several locations including Sarasin Bridge (which connects Phuket to the mainland) and the Old Town on Thalang Road. But if you want to party with fellow travelers, head to the island’s most popular beach, Patong, where the biggest party will take place from Bang La Road to the Beachfront Road. TAT - Phuket, 076-211-036, 076-212-213
WATER FIGHTS
PATTAYA When: April 18-20 Where: Lan Pho Na Klua Park, Wat Chai Mong Kol and Pattaya Beach Road
The Eastern provinces celebrate Songkran later than most and, of course, the biggest city in the region, Pattaya, hosts the largest and longest party. Called Wan Lai (Flowing Day) by locals, the event features making merit, the construction of sand chedi and the ‘Kong Khao’ procession in appreciation of the Goddess of Rice. The wilder fun kicks off when the beach road is closed to traffic and turns into a water battlefield. Pattaya City Call Center 1337, www.pattaya.go.th
SUKHOTHAI When: April 14 Where: Wat Traphang Thong in Sukhothai Historical Park, Phraya Litai Meomorial Plaza
SAND CHEDI? The construction of sand chedi (pagodas) is an old tradition you rarely see in Bangkok and the bigger cities these days, but which is still practiced in more remote provinces. It is believed that each time a worshipper walks out of a temple they inadvertently carry some of the temple sand with them. The building of Chedis or other sand sculptures decorated with flags is a symbolic way of returning this sand back to the temple and paying their respects to the Lord Buddha.
The ancient city of Sukhothai will hold its annual elephant-back ordination procession on April 7-8 at Ban Hat Siao in Si Satchanalai. Featuring cultural performances, an elephant parade and food fair, the Songkran celebrations will follow on April 14, where you can offer alms to monks and bathe the Buddha image.
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ANANTARA BOPHUT
SAMUI UPDATE
CHA CHA MOON
What’s new and noteworthy on this Gulf gem. Text and photos by Monruedee Jansuttipan
CONRAD KOH SAMUI
NEW BARS
NEW EATS
The latest beach club to land on nightlife central Chaweng Beach (joining the ever popular Ark Bar), Cha Cha Moon, offers daybeds on the beach, a rustic meets tropical vibe and a upbeat playlist that makes a welcome change from other night spots on the island.
The signature restaurant of new hotel Vana Belle, Kiree is a great choice for those who want to experience Thai food in a fine dining setting that also serves up great views. The locally-run kitchen features delicious Southern recipes taken from all over the region with dishes like kua kling (spicy stirfried pork or chicken) or moo hong (braised pork belly).
CHA CHA MOON
Chaweng Beach, Bophut, 086-007-8850
DREAMERS Looking to compete with the existing beach clubs of Nikki Beach and Beach Republic, the purple-accented Dreamers opts for a distinctly sleek and contemporary look and feel inspired by its sister clubs in Marbella and Ibiza in Spain. There’s a pool on the ground floor, fine dining on the second and an alfresco bar and club on the top floor. There’s live music on Wed-Sat while DJs take over on Sun-Tue. They also offer Sunday brunch, too. 18/19 Moo 4, Bangrak Beach (Big Buddha), 077-425-012, www.dreamersbeachclub.com
NAMU
KIREE
Open daily 6-11pm. 9/99 Moo 3, Chaweng Noi Beach, 077-915-555, www.vanabellekohsamui.com
NAMU
SILAVADEE
The flagship restaurant of the super-stylish W Retreat Koh Samui, Namu has just welcomed new Korean Chef Sin Keun Choi who looks to interpret Japanese cooking techniques to create unique recipes with strong Asian flavors. Examples include hamachi sashimi with leek and Mexican chili mint dressing or Maine lobster stir-fried udon noodles with chili. While you’re there don’t forget to pop up to the chic Woo Bar to admire the new graffiti installation by American artist Alec Monopoly and check out the new DJ booth in the shape of a glittering monkey head. Open daily 6-11pm. Lunch Fri-Sun noon-4pm. 4 Bontji Moo 4, Bophut, 077-915-999, www.wretreatkohsamui.com
VANA BELLE
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FEATURE where Y KOH The luxury Four Season Resorts Koh Samui has just introduced a new Thai restaurant and bar called KOH. Designed by Bill Bensley (who also designed the resort), this open-air eatery blends tropical architectural touches and high ceilings to fully take advantage of the resort’s breezy hilltop location. Executive Chef Alex Gares and Thai sous chef Sumalee Khunpet are huge fans of Thai southern cuisine so you can expect local delicacies such as spicy stir-fried prawns with aromatic niang beans or fish tom yam with turmeric. For further variety the menu changes every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Open daily 6.30am-11pm, 219 Moo 5, Angthong, 077-243-000, www.fourseasons.com/kohsamui
FRESH STAYS
ANANTARA BOPHUT RESORT AND SPA
Luxury resort the Conrad Koh Samui just came up with another attractive reason to pay them a visit by unveiling a new threebedroom villa with a vast infinity pool and spectacular sunset views. The two-story villa features an open plan layout downstairs that includes a kitchen, dining room and a living room with floor-to-ceiling windows leading to a private outdoor lawn terrace which is perfect for parties. The villa also boasts its own private butler, on hand 24 hours a day and you can also enjoy a private dinner on the beach where they’ve just installed new daybeds and white hammocks suspended in the sea.
After a B170 million, six-month renovation, Anantara Bophut recently reopened offering larger rooms, including two 80 sq meter beachfront pool suites that both feature a 20-sq-meter private pool and direct access to the beach. Their culinary options include the renovated High Tide Restaurant, Eclipse Bar and the open-air char grill restaurant Full Moon, which is set by a beautiful pool and tropical garden designed by Bill Bensley.
CONRAD KOH SAMUI
Bophut, 077-428-300, samui.anantara.com
SILAVADEE POOL SPA RESORT
Praised for its beautiful landscaping, Silavadee has just unveiled new Ocean Front Pool Villas. The nine onebedroom villas make the most of VANA BELLE ANANTARA BOPHUT their setting on a rocky outcrop The newly opened Vana Belle, takes thanks to infinity pools and the its design inspiration from the legendsumptuous handmade baths that offer ary Himavanta Forest in Hindu mythology. spectacular views. The resort has also With 80 contemporary villas and suites dotopened the Sun Moon Star Restaurant ted amid lush jungle vegetation on a small which serves up it’s own great views from hill that stretches down to Chaweng Noi its large deck, all-day international dining Beach, there are lots of little reminders of and a romantic rooftop bar complete with the famous folk tale, like the various bronze tables sunk into the pool. sculptures of forest creatures. The violet 49/8-9 Moo 4, Hillcrest Road, Taling-Ngam, 84140, 077-915-888, www.conradkohsamuiresort.com
hued main pool offers great views as does its neighbors, Italian beachfront restaurant Panali and Kiree which serves Thai cuisine. KOH
9/99 Moo 3, Chaweng Noi Beach, 077-915-555, www.vanabellekohsamui.com
208/66 Moo 4, Maret, 077-960-555, 081-271-3347, www.silavadeeresort.com
Y Don’t forget to see page 17 for our pick of the best local restuarants on Koh Samui.
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CAPITAL
AFFAIRS
Grand openings, hot promotions and special events in Bangkok
SUVARNABHUMI AIRPORT
New Terminal Announced
BRUNO MARS
Mars Landing The multi-million selling American mega-popster Bruno Mars, fresh from his memorable half time Super Bowl performance, is all set to make his Bangkok debut this March as part of his Moonshine Jungle Tour. You can expect the Hawaiian to be belting out all his global hits like “Grenade,” “Just the Way You Are” and “The Lazy Song,” as well as material from his second studio album, the 2012 release Unorthodox Jukebox. He’ll be performing on March 20 at Impact Arena with tickets, which are priced from B2,000-5,000, on sale via www. thaiticketmajor.com.
Interactive Art
Following the resounding success of its first two branches in Pattaya and Chiang The second phase of development at Mai, the three-dimensional art museum Suvarnabhumi Airport will go ahead Art in Paradise officially opened in according to plan despite the current Bangkok this February on the fourth floor political instability. Airport Authority of the Esplanade Shopping Mall. Created of Thailand president Makin Petplai by 13 Korean artists, the art exhibited at confirmed it will stick to the contract the museum is presented in a 3D format, signed with EPM Consortium in 2012. allowing viewers to complete the This second phase will see the various dramatic scenarios by airport welcome a new terminal posing for photos with the in 2017, allowing its capacity artworks. There are also to increase from the current another 150 images you can 45 million passengers a year play with, through computer to 60 million passengers software that responds to your a year. Once the second movements. Tickets are B300. phase is completed, the airport The Esplanade Shopping Mall is ART IN will also boast more facilities PARADISE located on Ratchadaphisek Road including a concourse, parking near MRT Thailand Cultural Center. buildings and full connections Open daily 10am-10pm (ticket office with Bangkok’s mass transport systems. closes at 9pm). For more information, The investment will cost B62 billion. With call 02-660-9130 or visit www.facebook. increasing numbers of visitors to Thailand com/artinparadisebangkok. each year, five development phases have been outlined that will enable the country’s main airport to ultimately cope with up to 120 million passengers per year via four runways.
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ART IN PARADISE
BURGEONING ART HOOD The slightly gritty Phra Khanong area of Bangkok was not traditionally thought of as an arty neighborhood but that’s changed after two new gallery openings. The latest GOJA arrival is GOJA Cafe Gallery (Sukhumvit 71, 5/2 Soi Pridi Banomyong3 www.facebook.com/ gojaphrakanong. Open Tue-Sun: 12am-9pm), which is nestled down a quiet street off Sukhumvit Soi 71 (Behind MaxValu), just a few minutes’ walk from BTS Phra Khanong. The new gallery is set in a renovated old shophouse boasting a clean and very cool Japanese feel. GOJA’s two plain white walls are lined with art pieces, while the minimal venue also serves as a cafe with drip coffee and drinks for art enthusiasts to enjoy at the slender window-side counter. Meanwhile, just a couple of sois away in Sukhumvit Soi 67, Rebel Art Space (10/5 Sukhumvit Soi 67 (Soi Srijun), 087-112-7774. Open Tue-Sat 10am-7pm [prior appointment advised]) is the brainchild of controversial social activist-cum-artists Vasan Sitthiket and Wannaphon “Sai” Chimbangchong, alongside curator Bee Jiratti Kuttanam. As its name asserts, Rebel Art Space is not just about selling canvases but also aims to serve as a platform for artists and a place to exchange ideas through talks and happenings. In addition, it serves as an art archive for Vasan’s works, many of which were banned and never exhibited. MARCH -AP RIL 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 11
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ISLAND POST What’s happening in Phuket and around the Andaman coast
U ZENYAMA
Sweet Suite
POINT YAMU BY COMO
Andaman View After the success of the Metropolitan on Sathorn Road in Bangkok, the Como Hotels & Resorts Group have now opened their second property in Thailand. Point Yamu by COMO is situated at the tip of Cape Yamu in Phuket, 25 minutes from the airport and close to the charming old town. The 106 rooms and private villas have been created by Italian designer and architect Paola Navone and feature a mix of clean contemporary white lines interspersed with splashes of bright aquamarine and vivid orange along with Thai artisanal techniques. Aside from the ocean-facing views from each room, guests will also be able to enjoy the spectacular 100m swimming pool, two restaurants serving Thai and Italian food, a yoga studio, a large gym and signature treatments at the eight-room COMO Shambhala Retreat. Rates start from B9,000 for a Bay Room and B16,500 for a Bay Suite while the pool villas are scheduled to open in July. Do note the resort is located on the more peaceful side of Phuket so it might not be the best spot for party lovers. Details at www. comohotels.com/pointyamu.
March sees the opening of U Zenmaya on Kalim Beach. The Sino-Portuguese-style boutique property consists of 50 rooms ranging from a 33-sq-meter superior room to a 70-sq-meter seaview suite, which include a Jacuzzi on the balconies. Like other U Hotels & Resorts you can personalize your experience by selecting various amenities such as types of pillow, tea, soap and music prior to your stay. Through March 31, the resort has packages from B7,600 per night in a deluxe sea view pool access room, which includes a complimentary two-hour spa treatment per person. For more information and deals, visit www.uzenmayaphuket.com. PHUKET
Wonderland
DUSIT D2
Convenient Stay The Dusit Group will expand into Phuket this April with the opening of dusitD2 Phuket in the central location of Patong, a short walk from the beach, the Jungceylon shopping mall and various nightlife hot spots. Previously The Destination Patong Hotel & Spa, the property is scheduled to be officially rebranded and reopen on April 3. Consisting of 390 rooms and suites, the hotel has a rooftop bar, spa and Hard Rock CafĂŠ. To celebrate the relaunch, it will offer opening promotions through August 31 with rates starting from B2,200 for a deluxe room and B5,200 for a one-bedroom suite without breakfast. If you plan to stay for two nights, check out the packages, which start from B3,200 per night including breakfast and one airport transfer. Details at www.dusit.com/ dusit-d2 or call 076-633-7000.
Phuket has just welcomed an intriguing new cocktail lounge called Wonderland (104 Yaowarat Road, Ban Talat Yai). Set in a 100-year old shophouse in the old quarter of Phuket Town, it looks to wow visitors with its decor of unique artsy pieces like metal rhino heads hanging on the wall, vintage gothic furnishings with black chandeliers and vivid red walls. Offering a good selection of cocktails and sushi, it has quickly made its name among locals as a hip hangout. Open daily, 6pm -1am. Visit www. wonderlandphuket.com. PHUKET
Active Holiday
In partnership with Singaporean tennis coach provider Savitar, the Outrigger Laguna Phuket Beach Resort has recently opened a new tennis center on Bantao Beach. Open for guests and the general public the center consists of three outdoor courts and one indoor court and has an in-house tennis pro offering tennis lessons. For more information call 076-360-600 or visit www. outriggerthailand.com.
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UPCOUNTRY NEWS New venues, special deals and events from Chiang Mai and beyond.
MAYA
AYUTTHAYA
Boxing Art The first Muay Boran (Ancient Boxing) Championships will be held on March 12-22 at Ayutthaya’s Ancient City. Featuring training and seminars run by the Kru Muay Thai Association, the event will feature nightly bouts starting from 5pm and will be open for guests and all levels of boxers, including semi, semi-pro and professional, who are interested in learning more about the traditional art of Thai boxing. Priced at B980 per person, the ticket covers transportation from and to Suvarnabhumi airport (March 11 or 12 and 22), access to a welcome party and an entry pass to participate in seminars. Training courses are available at extra charges. Room packages at Grand Ayutthaya Hotel are available at B1,400 per night for a standard room. The event’s highlight is the celebration of Nai Khanomtom Day on March 17, where the Tourism Authority of Thailand will organise the World Wai Kru Ceremony for Ayutthaya’s governor and trainers to pay respect to the legendary Muay Thai Master Nai Khanomtom at his statue. For more information, call 081-302-4622 or e-mail gmaster_woody@hotmail.com.
AYUTTHAYA
Steamy Journey
SIREEAMPAN BOUTIQUE RESORT & SPA
CHIANG MAI
Northern Heritage
Officially launched on March 26, 1896 with Chiang Mai recently welcomed the His Majesty the King Rama V overseeing centrally located Sireeampan Boutique the opening of the first route from Bangkok Resort & Spa, which is handily placed to Ayutthaya, the State Railway of Thailand near the trendy Nimmanhaemin Road, (SRT) has now been operating for 117 years. Chiang Mai Zoo, lots of historic temples, To celebrate, the SRT is offering a series of and just 15 minutes from Chiang Mai special day trips to Ayutthaya by steam International Airport. Inspired by the train. The next is due to take place on city’s rich heritage and Thai royal Sunday, March 23, setting off from manors of the 18th century, Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong station at the luxurious resort is set 8am and arriving at the Ayutthaya in an elegant Thai house station at 10.30am. From there, consisting of 11 suites amid an air-con bus will take you to the lush gardens. Named after historic temple, of Wat Maheyong different gem stones, the on the outskirts of Ayutthaya Island. In suites range from 40 to 60 sq STEAM TRAIN the afternoon, you’ll be taken to Hantra meters, and all come equipped Memorial Royalty Park, where you with marble bathrooms with can learn more about the province and its 16 a rain shower, bathtub and L’Occitane districts as well as get the chance to do some bath products. Opening rates start shopping at the park’s floating market, which from B10,000 per night, which includes opened last year. You can then get the train breakfast at anytime and anywhere in the back arriving in Bangkok at about 9:30pm. resort. For more information, visit www. Tickets are B555 per person, which includes sireeampan.com or call 053-327-777. return train tickets, transport by air con bus in Ayutthaya, tour guide, snacks and water. For details, visit www.railway.co.th or call 02-621-8701.
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Chiang Mai Shopping
SIREEAMPAN BOUTIQUE RESORT & SPA
CULTURAL SHOW IN SUKHOTHAI
The city of night markets now has another shopping option in the form of Maya Lifestyle Shopping Center, situated on Nimmanhemin Road, which is popular with Thai visitors thanks to its trendy boutiques and cute cafes. The 3-billion-bahtinvestment, which consists of six floors spanning over 80,000 sq meters, is home to over 200 stores covering international and Thai fashion brands, a 10-screen cinema and 3,000-sq-meter supermarket. Aiming to serve as a creative space, it also houses the library-style café C.A.M.P (Creative And Meeting Place), which is open 24 hours for people with creative minds to hang out. Open daily, 10am-10pm. www.mayashoppingcenter.com KHAO YAI
A Taste of England THAMES VALLEY KHAO YAI
SUKHOTHAI
Historic Show
MAYA
MAE HONG SON
Festival Gem
The UNESCO World Heritage town of The colorful three-day ceremony of Poi Sukhothai will be holding a series of Sang Long (April 3-5) marks the annual monthly light and sound presentations ordination of young Tai (Shan) boys through September, showcasing the into the monkhood. Deemed a highly ancient Thai capital’s history and culture. reverential occasion, it is believed that this The events, organized by the Tourism rite of passage should be as grand an event Authority of Thailand, will include classical as possible, making it a real spectacle for music performances, firework displays, tourists. On the first day the boys, who are and a Loi Krathong performance at aged anywhere between 7 and 14, will have MYANMAR 7-8:30pm, with narration available in their heads VIETNAM shaved before being anointed English, Japanese, French and with holy water, have their faces German. The monthly show painted and be dressed in colorful LAOS will give you the chance to outfits. On the following day, Mae Hong Son Chiang Mai have your photo taken the boys become known as with the performers, sang long (precious gems) Sukhothai float a krathong and and are paraded through launch a lantern. The the town on the shoulders event will take place of their relatives, Khao Yai Ayutthaya on March 8, April 12, protected by ornate Bangkok May 10, June 14, July 11, golden umbrellas. The final August 9 and September day sees the boys join the 13 at Wat Sasri inside the ordination ceremony at various ANDAMAN Sukhothai Historical Park. Free. temples throughout the town. SEA For more information, visit www. Do note, similar ceremonies do also take toursimthailand.org or call 1672. place in Chiang Mai. For more information GULF OF contact SIAM the Mae Hong Son TAT Office on 05-361-2982¬3.
Khao Yai, a popular country retreat a few hours north of Bangkok, has welcomed yet another themed resort. Thames Valley Khao Yai takes its inspiration from the country homes found along the River Thames, which flows through southern England. Consisting of 58 rooms, offering seven different room types, the resort is situated on Thanarat Road, five minutes from Khao Yai National Park, which means you get plenty of nature and some great mountain views. Rates start from B6,000 for a 40-sq-meter deluxe room and it’s B22,000 for a 185-sq-meter duplex pool villa. For more information, visit www. thamesvalleykhaoyai.com. AIRLINE NEWS
Chiang Rai From March 28, Bangkok Airways will launch direct flights from Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport to Chiang Rai, the increasingly popular Northern THAILAND destination nestled in the heart of the golden triangle. Operating two flights daily, the airline will Bangkok offer both morning and evening flights with prices starting at about B5,180 for a roundtrip. Details at www.bangkokair.com.
Samui
Phang Nga
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where NEWS
GULF GOSSIP The latest travel-related news from Hua Hin, Pattaya and Koh Samui
KC GRANDE RESORT & SPA
FULL MOON AT ANANTARA BOPHUT
MYANMAR
SONGKHLA
Fusion Flavors
SAMUI FINE DINING FESTIVAL
WOODEN BOX
VIETNAM
KOH CHANG
Grande Designs LAOS
Opening its doors in January, Wooden Box Located about 280 km from Bangkok, Koh Bistro Café has added some new flavor to the Chang continues to grow in popularity due southern commercial hub of Songkhla. Situto its long sandy beaches and less developed ated in Taoluang Building on the surroundings. Situated on Had Sai main road between Songkhla Kao, one of the most beautiful Bangkok and Hat Yai, the contempobeaches on the island, KC Pattaya rary-designed café serves Grande Resort & Spa has Hua Hin up homemade gourmet looked to meet this inKoh Chang ANDAMAN fusion dishes as well as creasing demand by addSEA Asian faves, all with an ing 79 units in two stylish GULF OF emphasis on healthy, buildings: beachfront and Samui SIAM organic ingredients. hillside. While the front Try the all-day breakfast property is only 100 meters Songkhla dishes like eggs benedict from the beach, rooms at the SOUTH or whole wheat and rye panrear come equipped CHINA SEA with Jacuzzi cakes, salads like Mediterranean and many offer unobstructed sea MALAYSIA chicken and smoked salmon niçoise, or views. Both offer direct pool access for rooms the best-seller, Chinese-spiced duck breast on the first floor. There is also the infinity with tomato, sesame and ginger sauce. You pool and a rooftop bar overlooking the beach. can also pop in for a cup of slow-drip coffee or Through April 30, rates are B4,200 for a INDONESIA25-sq-meter room and B12,600 for a 107-sqsmoothies and desserts. Open daily 8.10am9.30pm. Details at www.facebook/woodenmeter room. For more information, visit www. boxbistrocafe or call 086-965-4998. kckohchang.com or call 039-552-111.
SAMUI
Culinary Adventure Why not enjoy an island escape and the very best food and drink by heading to Samui in the month of March. The 4th Samui Fine Dining Festival is running from March 1 – 31 and will feature gourmet dining atTHAILAND leading restaurants on the island. Participating eateries will be Bangkok serving up a five-course meal consisting of starter, fish course, sorbet, meat course and dessert, as well as a bottle of Champagne at B7,500 for two people. Those restaurants taking part include Amber at the InterContinental Samui Samui Baan Taling Ngam Resort on Taling Ngam Beach, BeachPhang Republic on Lamai Beach, Nga Dining on the Rocks at Six Senses on Bophut Phuket Beach, Full Moon at Anantara Bophut, KanSak Thong at Melati Resort on Bophut Beach, Le Jaroen at The Scent Hotel on Bang Rak Beach, Ochos at Akaryn Resort on Choeng Mon Beach, Orgasmic on Bophut Beach, Rockpool on Bophut Beach, Saffron at Banyan Tree on Lamai Beach, Sala Samui on Choeng Mon Beach and Tawann at the Renaissance Resort. www.samuifinediningfestival.com.
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NEWS where Y Y LOCAL EATS
THREE LONG TERM FAVORITES IN SAMUI
KRUA CHAO BAAN
HAAD BANG POR
KRUA CHAO BAAN
KO SENG
Run by Khun Moo, who has over 20 years experience working as a chef in highend hotels this beachfront restaurant offers a very local taste of seafood in a rustic setting. Expect classic local dishes like khai jiew hor mok (omelet with spicy curry seafood), waii kua (octopus in dried curry) and pla song nam (deep fried seabass with spicy and sour sauce). They also provide free nam prik kapi (shrimp paste) for every table too. Make sure you visit the right one as many restaurants on Bang Por Beach have similar names.
Krua Chao Baan has three wooden houses sat right next to the white sands of Lamai Beach. Their menus are also big on southern recipes such as yellow gaeng som (spicy sour soup), stir-fried octopus with shrimp paste and pineapple, stir-fried shrimp with sataw beans and hormok talay (crab eggs in steamed curry). Don’t miss the specialty khai-jiew Krua Chao Baan, an omelet that actually looks more like a Spanish tortilla. As an added bonus the beach is beautiful and you can work off those calories by taking their free kayak out for a paddle.
Long adored by locals for its intriguing blend of Chinese and Southern Thai dishes, Ko Seng has been serving up seafood for more than 50 years (and 30 years in their current location). Their USP is a commitment to only serving fresh seafood and growing their own organic vegetables. The menu changes depending on what’s been pulled from the sea that day, which can then be steamed, stir-fried or dished up in a distinctive Southern-style tom yam. Be warned, their reputation precedes them and they can get very crowded.
Open daily 10am-10pm. 438/18 Moo 1, Maret, 077-418-589, 087893-7766
Open daily 10am-10pm. 95 Moo 1, Taweeratpakdee Road, Mae Nam, 077-425-365, 077-247-245
Open daily 11am-10pm. Had Bang Por Beach, Moo 4, Mae Nam, 081-788-8936
HAAD BANG POR
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ThewhereGuide MARCH-APRIL 2014 | BANGKOK
ART
Lost in Paradise Through April 27 This challenging photographic exhibition by internationally renowned Thai artist Lek Kiatsirikajorn looks to focus on the many rural workers drawn to the bright lights of Bangkok in the hope of better lives but who find themselves living in makeshift settlements that inhabit a kind of no-man’s land between the country and the town. Kathmandu Photo Gallery. 87 Pan Road (near Indian Temple), Silom, 02-234-6700. Open daily except Mon, 11am-7pm. www. kathmandu-bkk.com XI10
DINING..........................................................19-21 ARTS....................................................................22 ATTRACTIONS...............................................23
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NAVIGATE.........................................................29 MAPS............................................................30-33
Note that the reference at the end of the listings (WS24, ZD3, etc.) applies to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 33-36. Listings without coordinates indicate locations not within the maps.
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DINING
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Sensi Italian Chef Christian Martena just opened this sleek and luxurious new Italian fine-dining restaurant. Located in a sizeable retro house down a quiet soi, the venue has a polished, but relaxed vibe with black and brown tones and a large wooden communal chef’s table in one corner offering views of the kitchen. There’s lots to see with hands hard at work making bread, pasta and cheese, with some modern techniques thrown in for good measure. Sensi’s primary focus is on high-quality ingredients, mainly sourced from France and Italy such as the stracciatella cheese from Andria. Try them as part of the brief a la carte menu, or opt for the seasonal set menu. Narathiwas Soi 17, Yaek 5, 02-117-1618. www.sensibangkok.com. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight. XG14
DOWNTOWN BAWARCHI — Indian $$$ This is the flagship branch of a chain of four Indian restaurants that all look to serve up traditional Mughali cuisine like chicken tikka and tandoori lamb chops in a contemporary setting. B/F Intercontinental Hotel, 973 Phloenchit Rd., 02-656-0102-3. Open daily 11am-midnight. www.bawarchiindian.com YM18 BLUE ELEPHANT — Thai. $$$$ The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion, completed with a classic interior, where Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine. 233 South Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. BTS Surasak. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30–10:30pm. XI13 D’SENS — French. $$$$ The French-imported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers offers all the oomph one might expect. The dimly-lit dining room has a great view of Lumphini Park, and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10pm.
LE DU — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Le Du’s intriguing menu offers Asian flavors with modern cooking techniques and mostly seasonal local produce. The wine list is exciting, with bottles sourced only from organic producers or boutique importers. 339/3 Silom Soi 7, 081-562-6464. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2.30pm 6-11pm, Sat 6-11pm. www. ledubkk.com XG11
Y PICK GAGGAN — Indian. $$$$ After a brief
stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and some wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02-652-1700. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 6pm-midnight. YO19
Y PICK ISSAYA SIAMESE CLUB — Thai. $$$-
$$$$ Chef Ian Kittichai made his name in New York but returns home with this restaurant, set in a delightful wooden mansion and featuring inventive twists on classic Thai recipes. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., Sathorn Rd., 02-6729040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:3010:30pm. www.issaya.com
Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$
Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up
Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.
Area guide Downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods Lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53
XF10
Y PICK EAT ME — International. $$$$ The
décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic. The kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 3pm-1am. XG11
Y PICK LE BEAULIEU — French. $$$$ Chef Herve Frerard corks up hearty, rustic options like baked morteau sausage served with a rich tomato lentil sauce and terrine de pot au feu alongside bistro classics like bouillabaisse and sole meunière. These simple dishes use high-quality ingredients imported direct from France or making the most of the chef’s involvement with the Royal Projects. G/F, Athénée Office Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02168-8220-3. www.le-beaulieu.com. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 6:30–10pm. YN21
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DINING ROCK RESTAURANT AND BAR — Thai. $$This new Asian restaurant offers a menu packed with flavors inspired by places such as Myanmar, India and China, as well as Thailand. 7/1 Paholyothin Soi 9, 082-6888200. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight.
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RUEN URAI — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house, decorated with a blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, it offers a polished menu of solid Thai recipes. Rose Hotel, 118, Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. XG8
Z CAFE
Industrial Isaan New indoor somtam restaurant Z Café (Sukhumvit Soi 33, 082-576-7767. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 6-10pm) draws customers into its industrial interior featuring water pipes and lots of bricks. Isaan dishes include jim joom (hot pot) with an option of an affordable buffet. Other choices include spaghetti pla duk foo (deep-fried catfish) and guay tiew nuea (beef noodles).
SRA BUA — Thai. $$$$ The sister of Michelin-starred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen offers Thai food with a molecular twist in a soaring, glittering palace dotted with lotus ponds. Siam Kempinski Hotel, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-11pm. YL17 SOMTUM DER — Thai. $$ Yards from the bustle of Silom Rd., this spot brings typical street food into a more upmarket setting. The menu has a focus on somtam, a spicy Thai papaya salad, and other classic Northeastern dishes. 5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am-10pm. XF11
LOWER SUKHUMVIT Surf’s Up! Riding into downtown, Fins Fins Cafe (68 Sukhumvit Soi 2, 02-116-6066. BTS Ploenchit) has all the hallmarks of a cute wooden Japanese-style cafe. But as one of the owners is also a Japanese surfer, the place is littered with surfing gear, including Stream Trail waterproof bags for sale. The comfort food covers tom yam, omu rice and pad Thai, while they roast their own coffee beans for drip coffee too.
Crave for Crepes La Creperie (86 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-6499, lacreperierestaurant.com) is the latest new opening to put the focus on French crepes. Located deep into Sukhumvit Soi 39, the big bonus here is being able to dine in the large garden that offers a very chill vibe. Try both the savory and sweet crepes, such as the crepe with ham and cheese or crepe with banana caramel and fruits, which you can wash down with some Mariage Freres tea.
Spanish Invasion An old shophouse in Yaowarat has been renovated into a tapas bar, El Chiringuito (221 Soi Nana, Charoen Krung Rd., 086-340-4791). The new venue boasts a charming retro ambience courtesy of reclaimed wooden furniture, classic sewing tables, old posters and an adorable chalkboard menu. Owned by Supapron Sae, who lived in Spain for six years, the kitchen rolls out dishes like tortilla de patatas, patatas bravas (fried potatoes) and bocadillos (sandwiches).
JIM THOMPSON - Thai and Fusion. $$-$$$ This new venue sports a modern Thai décor and serves Thai and fusion dishes like poh pia hed thod (spring rolls) and roast duck with Kale sauce. The second floor features a lounge area, serving up a good selection of cocktails. 149/4-6 Surawongse Road. Open daily 9am-4pm, 5-11pm. www.jimthompson.com XI8
Y PICK NAHM — Thai. $$$$ Named Asia’s top
restaurant, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open daily noon-2pm, 7-11pm. XG13
11 GALLERY — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1 ABOVE ELEVEN — Fusion. $$$ The twist of this rooftop bar and restaurant, apart from a great city view, is a concept that focuses on Nikkei cuisine: a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. 32/F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-9300. www.aboveeleven.com. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZA1 SEVEN SEAS RESTAURANT — Seafood/European. $$$ Offers a variety of tasty Thai, seafood and Western dishes in a cozy setting with a pleasant outdoor terrace. Recommended dishes include the tom yum soup and steamed Pomfret in soy and ginger. Sukhumvit Soi 4, 02-656-7881. Open daily. 12.30pm –1.30am. ZC1
UPPER SUKHUMVIT Y PICK APPIA — Italian. $$$ Jarret Wrisley of the
popular Soul Food Mahanakorn teams up with Chef Paolo Vitaletti who is firmly committed to his family food principle, to create wonderful Roman-style pastas. Also, do expect a carefully curated wine selection. 20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-261-2056. Open daily 6-11pm. ZC4
BACCO — Italian. $$$ This relaxed, slightly rustic eatery packs in the diners nightly, thanks to its extensive menu of authentic regional specialities. 35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-662-4538. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-midnight. ZC6
Y PICK BO.LAN — Thai. $$$$ Chefs Bo and Dylan
offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a charming house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes to reflect the seasons. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962. Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pm-midnight. ZD5
Y PICK INDUS — Indian. $$$ An ambient spot with
a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual north Indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. ZE5
L’APPART — French. $$$-$$$$ Imagine a grand Parisian apartment, which means parquet floors, rich burgundy wallpaper and lots of marble. The food is French cuisine with Thai touches. There’s also a full bar but a particular focus on Champagne cocktails. 32/F Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 13 and 15), 02-126-9999. Open daily 5pm-midnight. www.sofitel.com ZB2 THE LOCAL — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef and co-owner Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find traditional recipes. They’re all served in a beautiful hundred-year-old house. There are cooking lessons every Wednesday, too. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm ZA3
Y PICK MAYA — Indian. $$$ Housed in a striking
cantilevered structure on the roof of the Holiday Inn this venue offers a choice of classic North Indian dishes, an outdoor lounge and a DJ bar. Holiday Inn Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-683-4704. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 6pm-1am. ZC4
NEAR EQUAL — Thai. $$-$$$ This long-term favorite is set in a quaint house down a lovely leafy street. Upstairs the wood floors and antique pieces make for a delightful spot to enjoy well-balanced Thai dishes; then head downstairs to browse the selection of Thai furniture and handicrafts. 22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-258-1564/5. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 5:30-9:30pm. ZC5
Y PICK QUINCE — International. $$$ Quince’s
country-classic theme goes for a casual and rustic ambiance that’s part industrial part rustic villa. The kitchen’s focus is all about sustainability, ethical eating and local produce with down-to-earth home cooking and a menu that changes frequently. Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. Open daily 6-10pm. www.quincebangkok.com ZC5
SMITH — International. $$$$ Set in a former furniture warehouse, it’s decked out in an elegant industrial theme, with walls lined with butcher’s tools. Chef Peter Pitakwong’s menu focuses on two things: locally-sourced ingredients and nose-to-tail cooking. 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-0515. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. ZC5
THONGLOR/EKKAMAI LITTLE BEAST—International. $$-$$$ Owned by a group of best friends who met in New York, this stylish gastro bar serves French and New American cuisine. Enjoy the popular 15-hour lamb shoulder and creative cocktails in a 1920s-inspired space. 44/9-10, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2670. Open TueSun 5:30pm-1am. ZB5
Y PICK OPPOSITE MESS HALL — International.
$$$ Chef Jess Barnes draws on both Mediterranean and Asian influences and focuses on local produce. The fuss-free nature of the place means dishes are often best-eaten with your fingers and enjoyed with the homemade cocktails. 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6330. Open Tue-Sun 7pm-midnight. ZC5
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DINING Y PICK PASTE — Thai. $$$ Run by chef couple
Bongkoch Satongun and Jason Bailey, who take their inspiration from Thai royal cuisine. Everything here is homemade from locally-sourced ingredients completed with inventive techniques and artful presentation. 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-392-4313. www.pastebangkok.com Open Wed-Sun noon2:30pm, Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. ZA5
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PHUKET TOWN — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of SinoPortuguese touches. Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. ZC6 SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN — Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of well-executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect and the small venue is often packed. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-midnight. ZC6
Y PICK SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM— Thai. $$
Sat in a three-story shophouse, this Thai restaurant offers a cozy yet chic décor. The menu is based on what the owner’s grandmom used to cook—Thai food that borrows both from her hometown of Trat, and where the family now lives, Khon Kaen. Expect authentic and often rare dishes. 160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (between Thonglor Soi 6 and 8). Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm. ZC6
661 Silom
661 Silom is the new baby of the team behind Le Beaulieu, meaning you now have another fine-dining restaurant to try. Upstairs at Meat, architect Sumeth Sukapanotharam, who is also a partner, presents his idea of a modern steakhouse. The space is dominated with cow skins adorning the walls, leather furniture and large wooden salt and pepper shakers hanging from the ceiling. Downstairs, Meet has a Dom Perignon theme, which means you can expect glittery pillows and glasses suspended from the roof. The menu is totally different between Meat and Meet, but both are prepared by Chef Cyril Cocconi, who previously worked in the kitchen of super-chef Joel Robuchon. Downstairs the menu is very casual gastro bites, while upstairs the focus is on high-quality New York-style steaks. Baan Silom, Silom Rd., 02-266-8661. www.661silom.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:30-1am; Sat-Sun 5pm-1am XI11
WATER LIBRARY — International. $$$$ A restaurant that serves a maximum of ten diners per night, with a 12-course set menu using the best ingredients prepared in front of you by an army of chefs. It’s very sophisticated, very sexy and while quite expensive is very memorable. There’s also a neighboring wine bar. Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, 02-714-9292/-3. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am. ZB6
RIVERSIDE CHON — Thai. $$$$ Set in a beautiful Thai teak house overlooking the Chao Phraya River, Chon (“spoon” in Thai) is making a name for itself thanks to its authentic Thai food. The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., Dusit, 02206-6999. Free shuttle boat from Central Pier. www. thesiamhotel.com. Open daily 6am-11pm. STEVE CAFÉ & CUISINE — Thai. $$ Located next to Thewet pier, Steve’s offers river views, a charming vibrantly-colored 60-year old wooden house, and authentic Southern dishes. 68 Soi Sri Ayuthaya 21 (Wat Devarajkoonchon), Sri Ayuthaya Rd., 02281-0915. www.stevecafeandcuisine.com. Open 11:30am-11pm. SALA RATTANAKOSIN — Thai/Western. $$$ This stylish riverside venue is where to indulge in Western and Thai creations and to feast your eyes on the view of the Temple of Dawn. Soi Ta Tien, Maharat Rd., 02-622-1388. www.salarattanakosin.com. Open daily 7am-10pm. Tha Tien Pier. WP23 SHEEPSHANK — Spanish $$$ This new restaurant is designed to resemble a sophisticated boat house where you can sit back and enjoy views of the river and Rama Eight Bridge while experiencing Spanish dishes like the seafood paella with Spanish saffron. 47 Phra Athit Road, 02-629-5165, www. sheepshankpublichouse.com. Open Tue-Sun 6pmmidnight.
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ART+ ATTRACTIONS ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY — On top of its prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-684-1527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20
V64 — More than 60 artists from Chatuchak Weekend Market teamed up to transform a three-acre space into a large art center, which features studios, a gallery, an art academy, shop and restaurant. 143/19 Chaengwattana Soi 1 Yak 6, Bhangkhen. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.v64artstudio.com
BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTRE (BACC) — The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd., Pathumwan, 02214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th YM16 H GALLERY — Set in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions representing emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201, Sathorn Soi 12, 081-310-4428. BTS Surasak. Open WedMon 10am-6pm. www.hgallerybkk.com XH11 NATIONAL GALLERY — Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd., 02-281-2224, 02-282-2639-40. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www.nationalgallery.go.th WQ27 ROOFTOP GALLERY — With galleries in LA and New York, Hossein Farmani brings his passion for photography to the rooftop of the Design International School on Thonglor. 4/F, 440/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 090910-8373. Open Wed-Fri 12pm-7pm. ZA6 SILOM GALLERIA — This large mall hosts a range of modern Asian art under one roof. Highlight galleries include: Tang Contemporary Art, which covers modern Chinese art, and Thavibu Gallery, which features works by Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-2665454. The mall is open daily 10am-8pm, though some galleries have different opening times. XI10 SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — Both a shop and a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai artworks. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040. Open daily 9am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www. sombatpermpoongallery.com YL21 THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC) — Home to a large art library, and host to temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-6648488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www.tcdc.or.th ZC4
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ESCAPE HUNT
V64
WHITESPACE GALLERY — This gallery, curated by talented contemporary Thai artist Maitree Siriboon, is a platform for young emerging artists with more of an experimental, avantgarde leaning. Sala Daeng Soi 1, 02-2352500. Open Wed-Sun noon-6pm. MRT Lumphini. XF12
MUSEUMS JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses brought here from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. www.jimthompsonhouse.com YM15 NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most impressive architecture, art and antiques in the country. Na Phrathat Rd., 02-215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. B50. www.nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th WQ27 MUSEUM SIAM — This completely restored colonial-style building is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-2252777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. B300. www. museumsiam.com WQ23
Something that will certainly appeal to all those budding Sherlocks out there, Escape Hunt is a fun adventure where you and your family can test your detective skills by cracking a case. Conveniently located in the Interchange Building, which connects to BTS Asok and MRT Sukhumvit, Escape Hunt offers a unique gaming experience where a group of two to five players have to search for clues and solve puzzles to escape from a locked room where a murder has taken place. There are four game rooms split into Asian and European themes and two ‘virtual’ rooms that take place in a nearby shopping center and involve a mission to defuse a bomb. The experience starts at the lounge area where you get changed into period costume before taking part in the 60-minute mystery. Fees start from B795 per person for minimum of two players up to a maximum of five players per game (B600 per person). Children under seven are not allowed. Open daily, 10am–7pm. For more information, visit www.escapehunt.com. ZC3 SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household features eight Thai-style houses that showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period along with prehistoric relics from Baan Chiang. Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-246-1775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www.suanpakkad.com
CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS WAT ARUN (TEMPLE OF DAWN) — Sat on the river’s edge, the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmerstyle tower) is decorated with millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arunamarin Rd. Wat Arun Pier. WP22 WAT PHO — Famous as both the home of the 46-meter-long reclining Buddha and as a center of traditional Thai massage, it can even offer courses to learn for yourself. 2 Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon. 02-225-4771. Open daily 8am-6pm. www.watpomassage. com. Tha Thien Pier WQ24
THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes. 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-2815360/1. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. WS27
MUSEUM SIAM
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ART+ ATTRACTIONS WAT TRAIMIT WITTAYARAM — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the informative Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm. GRAND PALACE AND WAT PHRA KAEO (TEMPLE OF THE EMERALD BUDDHA) — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace is Wat Phra Kaeo, home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. Also, don’t miss the exquisite mural wall paintings found on the compound walls. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am3:30pm. Free English tours at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm. B400. Tha Chang Pier.
MADAME TUSSAUDS — The famous wax work museum has made it to Bangkok and features a star-studded line up of incredibly life-like movie stars, politicians and sportsmen drawn from all over the world. 6/F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama I Rd., 02-658-0060. Open daily 10am-9pm. Tickets B800 adults, B600 children over 5. BTS Siam. YM16 FLOW HOUSE — If you’re missing the beach, then why not go surfing in the middle of the city? That’s what Flow House offers, thanks to a special machine which gives a similar experience to riding a real wave. It also features bars, restaurants and retail shops specializing in water sports gear. Lessons are available for novices and prices cover board hire, use of showers and towels. Sukhumvit Soi 26. Open Sun-Thu 8am-11pm; Fri-Sat 8ammidnight. Prices from B550 per hour. www. flowhousebangkok.com
WQ25
ATTRACTIONS SIAM OCEAN WORLD — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. Highlights include the underwater tunnel, penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour. Basement, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02687-2000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm. B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17
FLOW HOUSE
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KIDS FUNARIUM — This giant indoor soft play area provides painting, crafts, bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas, ensuring there’s plenty for the kids to do. 111/1 Sukhumvit 26, 02-665-6555. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 8:30am-8:30pm. B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults for three hours. Socks required. www.funarium.co.th KIDZOONA —Actually split into two main sections, Molly’s Gateway is a big arcade, while Kidzoona offers a large space for children to explore. As well as giant inflatables and a big ball pit, there is the chance for children to dress up as builders, firemen, chefs and more in Papertown. 5/F, Gateway Mall Ekkamai, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-108-2650/-52. Open daily from 10am-9pm. B180-B330 for kids and B90 for adults. Socks required. BTS Ekkamai. ZD7 PLAYTIME — Located on the third floor of upscale mall Parklane, the main room is dominated by a large play-gym area. There’s also a separate space for under threes, a sandpit, ice skating rink, climbing wall, electric car track and more. Upstairs offers a cafeteria. 3-4/F, Parklane Ekkamai, opposite Ekkamai Soi 2, 02-382-0077. Open Mon-Thu 9am-6pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 9am-7:30pm. B210-350 for kids and B110 for adults. Socks required. www.playtime. co.th ZC7
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NIGHTLIFE Le Bar by Le Beaulieu
Le Beaulieu is most famous for the fine French cooking of its chef, Herve Frerard. Last year, his restaurant opened a charming outdoor terrace called LB Terrasse, which has now been converted into a conservatory, though it still retains a small outdoor section, and rebranded as a Veuve Clicquot Champagne lounge. The chic and sleek venue now sports two bars, with one of them also acting as an open kitchen for the small bites menu. The signature Champagne cocktails are created by French mixologist Mathieu Lapipe while the food offers a French take on tapas and even hearty bistro dishes. Ground Floor, Athénée Tower, 63 Wireless Road, 02-168-8220. Open Mon-Sat 5.30pm-1am. www.le-beaulieu.com/ lebar YN21
DOWNTOWN BANGKOK BETTY — The latest themed bar by nightlife guru Ashley Sutton has a back story that conjures up 1940s America, mixing pinup girls and shiny chrome bombs of all sizes including a weapon of mass destruction that hangs in the middle of the space and is straddled by a real-life 50s pin-up girl. G/F, Holiday Inn, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-663-4223. Open daily 6pm-1am. ZC4
Y PICK MAGGIE CHOO’S — Quirky styling and
surreal concepts like busts of Queen Victoria and a noodle shop facade help portray the story of a post-war Chinese lady, Maggie Choo, who opened a secret “speakeasy” bar in an old trading post’s bank vault. 320 Silom Rd., next to Novotel Fenix Silom, 02-635-6055. Open daily 7pm-2am, www.facebook.com/maggiechoos. BTS Surasak. XJ10
APOTEKA — As the name suggests, this bar features a 19th century apothecary-inspired décor. The theme influences the cocktail list (called “antidotes”) where you’ll find drinks with names like Penicilin and Mr. Hyde. 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 090-626-7655. Open MonThu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am; Sun 3pmmidnight. BTS Nana. ZA1
of Bangkok’s best cocktail menus and a décor that conjures up Victorian drawing room style and NYC sophistication. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-1685152-3. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. www.hydeandseek.com. YM21
KU DE TA— The hip hangout on the top two floors of Sathorn Square building will eventually have three restaurants, seven themed bars and two clubs. For now you can enjoy city views, a sophisticated setting and an intriguing cocktail list at KU Bar; the Aztec temple-theme of the adjacent Club; a contemporary take on a Japanese tavern at Izakaya; while Signature serves up modern Asian fine-dining. 39-40/F, Sathorn Square Building, 98 North Sathorn Road, Silom, 02-108-2005. Open daily 6pmmidnight, www.kudeta.com XH12
Hotel G’s top floor, this popular spot features an al fresco terrace with fantastic views, an extensive and affordable wine list, industrial bistro décor and interesting tapas options. 37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd, BTS Chong Nonsi, 02-2381991. Open daily 6pm-1am. www. tinyurl.com/ o3cc6tm. XH10
SUKHUMVIT SOI 11
Y PICK HYDE & SEEK — Elevated pub grub, one
HORIZONS — The final element of “Heaven,” a complex of restaurants that crowns the Zen Department Store, Horizons is a new tapas bar which combines fusion cuisine, stunning views and great cocktails influenced by molecular techniques. 19/F, Zen Department Store, Rama 1 Rd., 02-101-0900. www.horizonsbangkok.com. Open daily 5pm-1am. YL18
Y PICK SCARLETT — Perched on Pullman Bangkok
MAGGIE CHOO’S
POTION BAR — The perfect place for those who like a drink while browsing, Potion Bar puts its main focus on furniture and creative, Thaiinfluenced cocktails. The furniture showroom offers cocktails made with a base of Thai liquors that have been home-infused with local herbs and fruit. The Green Connect building, 235/10 Sukhumvit Soi 31 (Soi Sawasdee) 091-8689974. Showroom open daily 10am-midnight. Bar 6pm-midnight. ZB4 PARK SOCIETY — For a real breath of fresh air and a park view, head up to the top floor of this trendy hotel. Inside is fine dining while the rooftop is all about potent cocktails, lounge tunes and a great view. 29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. Open daily 5pm-1am. www. tinyurl.com/q7ucfa8. XF2
LEVELS — Decked out with a huge LED chandelier above a circular bar and a bunch of monochrome sofas surrounding a sizeable dance floor, this cavernous venue aims for a rather swanky audio-visual clubbing experience. 6/F Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246. Open daily 9pm-3am. www.levelsclub.com. ZA1 NEST — Nest offers a perfect blend of sexy sophistication and chill out chic. Lay back on their super comfy daybeds while you enjoy the open air clubby vibe. Rooftop of LeFenix Hotel, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255-0638/9. Open daily 4pm-2am. www.nestbangkok.com. ZA1 Q BAR— The Soi 11 institution continues to deliver a heady mix of bass lines and international DJs downstairs but their 2nd floor, with a large outdoor patio, means it’s also a great spot to chill out with friends. In the back, Le Derriere serves up absinthe and oysters amidst a 1900s French decor. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-2523274 BTS Nana. Open daily 8pm-1am. www. qbarbangkok.com. ZA1
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NIGHTLIFE THONGLOR/EKKAMAI BADMOTEL — This formerly abandoned threestory building has been repainted all in white and offers a glasshouse style ground floor, a sizable courtyard and a low-key rooftop. They regularly play host to special events, which means it’s usually full of Bangkok’s painfully hip. Next to J-Avenue, Thonglor Soi 55, between Soi 15 and 17, 02-712-7288. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.facebook.com/badmotel. ZA6
Y PICK IRON FAIRIES — Like no other bar in
Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies. A great live band makes this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-8875. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. www.theironfairies.com. ZB6
MELLOW — Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, affluent locals, attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with its beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and delicious cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. www. facebook.com/mlw.bangkok. ZA6 MOOSE — This revamped space above vintage furniture store Y50 offers a no-frills yet undeniably cool ambience plus acoustic live music on weekdays which help to draw in a very hip crowd. Ekkamai Soi 21. Open daily 5pm1am. www.facebook.com/MooseBangkok.
TUBA — This bar seems to have been around forever but the crowds keep coming thanks to the quirky surroundings, from a lifesized Superman to a giant Incredible Hulk, the retro furniture, which is all for sale, the fiery Thai food and the great cocktails, best enjoyed during their daily 2-for-1 happy hour from 5-8pm. Room 11-12 A, 34 Ekkamai Soi 21, 02-711-5500. Open daily 11-1am. www.tubabkk.com.
RIVERSIDE Y PICK BABBLE + RUM — This riverside
restaurant and bar is clad in a modern Frenchcafé decor, finished with dark woods and leather couches. An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make for a chill night out. 1-2/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Arthit Rd., 02-633-5000, Open daily 6:30am-1am. www.rivasurya.com. WQ27
VIVA & AVIV — Fitting for its riverside location, this venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nauticallyinspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive, well-made cocktails and bistro-style food. River City, 23 Yota Rd., 02-639-6305, Open daily 11am-midnight. www.vivaaviv.com.
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Mikkeller After quite a long wait, Mikkeller finally opened its doors to great fanfare at the start of this year on Ekkamai Soi 10. This microbrewery originated in Denmark and is renowned as one of the world’s first “gypsy” microbrewers, which means they produce unique beers around the world in other people’s breweries. They are recognized for their experimental approach, limited batches and for challenging expectations. Set in a modern-meets-rustic house-turned-bar with unique craft beers, you’ve plenty of reasons to pay them a visit, especially as this is the very first Mikkeller bar in Asia, beating Tokyo and Hong Kong to the punch for once, and one of only three such bars in the world (the others are in Copenhagen and San Fransico). 26 Ekkamai Soi 10, Yaek 2. 02-381-9891. Open daily 5pm-midnight. www.mikkellerbangkok.com. ZB7
MYST — Set on the rooftop of Grass on Thonglor Soi 12 overlooking the bustling street, Myst serves Thai and Italian food but the real draw is the impressive selection of creative cocktails like Myst’s signature Marshmallow. Rooftop of Grass Thonglor 12, Sukhumvit 55 Rd, 080-770-9800. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. www.mystthonglor. com. ZB6 OCTAVE — This multi-level rooftop bar and restaurant offers a stylish modern-industrial décor that is accentuated by great views over Sukhumvit from the top deck. The food menu is focused on Asian-themed bar snacks and features intriguing nibbles like prawn yakitori with chili tomato sauce. 45/F, Marriott Bangkok Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000. Open daily 6pm-1am. www.facebook.com/octavemarriott. ZC6 WINE REPUBLIC — They take their vino seriously here, with a wall of bottles and informed staff to talk you through your purchase. The dark spit-and-sawdust interior and breezy outdoor terrace get very busy on weekends. Thonglor Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7599. Open daily 5:30pm-1am. www. tinyurl.com/nlbxaay ZB6
Y PICK WTF — A collaboration between
an art curator, a hip hotelier and a photojournalist, WTF is actually a hybrid bar and exhibition space that’s popular with Bangkok’s creative expats and local hipsters. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open TueSun 6pm-1am. www.wtfbangkok.com. ZC5
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HEALTH + WELLNESS Natural Retreat
BORISUD PURE SPA
SPA Y PICK AWAY SPA — Beds glow softly in your
choice of green, red, purple or pink, while the dim, labyrinthine halls induce an almost meditative mood. Treatments range from a onehour aroma massage and detox to a four-hand mineral scrub and oil massage. Finally, the Style Lab offers mani, pedi and grooming services. 6/F, W Bangkok, North Sathorn Rd., 02-3444000 ext. 4160. BTS Chong Nonsi, Open daily 10am-10pm. www.wbangkok.com XH12
BHAWA SPA
Y PICK BHAWA SPA — This new spa blends
contemporary design, traditional touches and a holistic range of treatments from a precious stones detox to mind rejuvenation workshops. 83/27 Witthayu Soi 1, Wireless Rd. 02-2527988. Open daily 10am-11pm. www.bhawaspa. com YN20
BODY TUNE — The “menu” here is short, sweet and to the point: foot reflexology, hand, Thai and oil massage. But what they do, they do well. We prefer the quieter Silom branch. Silom: 56 Yada Bldg., 2/F, Silom Rd., 02-238-4377. BTS Sala Daeng. Sukhumvit: 49 Sahai Place Bldg., Sukhumvit 24, 02-661-0077. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-midnight. www.bodytune. co.th XG10 DEVERANA SPA — The impressive white lobby has an almost heavenly quality, while the 14 individual spa rooms are little sanctuaries to enjoy a range of treatments covering everything from milk baths to body scrubs. Dusit Thani, 946 Rama IV Rd., 02-636-3596. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.deveranaspa.com XF10 DIVANA VIRTUE SPA — Tucked down a small soi close to the bustle of Silom, Divana Virtue Spa is authentic yet homely. Situated in a century-old house, decked out in a traditional Rama V style, it sits among a small yet lush garden to create a very private and calming atmosphere. 120 North Sathorn Rd., 02-637-8883. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 9am-11pm. XG13 ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is the brand’s first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the Arabian sauna in the Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.stregis.com/bangkok YN18
Ideally located on the 11th floor of Mode Sathorn next to BTS Surasak, Borisud Pure Spa opened late last year with a focus on utilizing natural skin care products. Consisting of two twin rooms, two single rooms, one private foot massage room and a VIP room equipped with a private steam room and Jacuzzi, the new contemporary spa offers a variety of treatments from the Ayus-Lomi Massage (90mins for B3,500) – which combines Ayurvedic principles with Hawaiian Lomi and Thai Yoga massages (60mins for B2,200 or 90mins for B3,200) to body scrubs (60mins for B2,100) and facial treatments. In addition, it offers spa packages that can be tailored to your needs (210mins for B6,500) letting you pick from a choice of body scrub, body massage and facial treatment. We recommend the signature Pure So Swift Massage (60mins for B2,700 or 90mins for B3,700), which is a traditional Thai massage mixed with Swedish techniques to enhance blood circulation and offer deep relaxation. Open daily 10am–11pm, 02-623-4555 ext. 1081. www.modesathorn.com XI12
HEALTH LAND — Health Land has built its sizeable reputation on a blend of affordable prices, expert masseuses and select surroundings. Lots of branches throughout town also helps. 120 North Sathorn Rd., 02-637-8883. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 9am-11pm. More branches: www.healthlandspa.com XH12 I SPA — One of Bangkok’s newest spa sanctuaries, the treatments offered here are based on therapies from China, India, Japan and Thailand, using five choices of essential oils based on Asian flowers and herbs. 9/F, The Landmark Bangkok, 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-252-9444. BTS Nana, Open daily 10am-10pm. www. ispathailand.com ZC1
Y PICK I.SAWAN — With its Tony Chi design
and its classy residential cottages and treatment bungalows, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a full fitness club. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234, Open daily 6am-11pm. www.bangkok.grand. hyatt.com YN18
LET’S RELAX — With branches around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-6626935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www. letsrelaxspa.com ZB3
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HEALTH + WELLNESS LE SPA WITH L’OCCITANE — Thailand’s first Le Spa with L’Occitane boasts a modernThai style combined with elegant French touches. Treatments include the Golden Siamese Massage and Four Teas Ceremony. 9/F, Sofitel Bangkok, 189 Sukhumvit Rd., between Soi 1315, 02-126-9999, Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Nana. ZB2 MULBERRY SPA — Set in a 60s-style residential compound, Mulberry Spa offers the usual selection of treatments amid a classy-yet-cozy ambiance. 132 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1888. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am-11pm. Silom branch: www.mulberryspa.com ZB3
Y PICK PANPURI ORGANIC SPA — Hidden
behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of this luxury spa. Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1199. Open daily 10am-8pm. www. panpuri.com YM18
SOOK SABAI HEALTH MASSAGE — Conveniently located, the French-Indochinese vintage-inspired spa offers a variety of treatments ranging from traditional Thai massage to Balinese treatments. 3-4/F YJA Building, Rama 4 Road. 02-637-5575. Open daily 10am–10.30pm. www.sooksabaispa.com
URBAN RETREAT — Urban Retreat’s various branches offer relaxing havens from the city in the middle of town. 31/10 Soi Phromjai, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-204-2008/9. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.urbanretreatspa.net ZA4
Y PICK SIX SENSES SPA — This famous hotel
chain’s newest spa sports plenty of wood, for that natural connection, but more importantly, boasts stunning views of Bangkok. Treatments are tailored following a consultation with a spa director and cover aesthetic and therapeutic options. 30/F, Two Pacific Place, 142 Sukhumvit Rd. 02-6532450. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 7am-10pm, Sun 9am-6pm. www.sixsenses.com ZB1
SPA BOTANICA — Surrounded by the lush gardens of the Sukothai Hotel, Spa Botanica is an urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best of oriental massage options. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd, 02-2344-8900. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.sukhothai.com XG13
YUNOMORI ONSEN & SPA — Bangkok’s first authentic onsen (hot spring bath house) features water sourced from a hot spring in Ranong, in Southern Thailand. As with traditional onsens in Japan bathing is done in the nude, though there are separate baths for men and women. B450 for all-day onsen, and B350 for Thai massage. A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-259-5778. Open daily 10:30-12am. www.yunomorionsen.com.
TRIA — Tria is not just a spa: this sanctuary hidden behind Piyavate Hospital is a rejuvenation center offering integrated programs. With over 50 treatment rooms, there are also hydrotherapy pools, a restaurant and residences for long-term treatments. 998 Ronkhlongsamsen Rd., 02-6602602. Open Mon-Fri 7-10am. Closes Sat 9pm, Sun 8:30pm. www.triaintegrativewellness.com
YUNOMORI ONSEN SPA
AESTHETIC CLINICS ASTER SPRING — This international chain of skin care and health spas combines German techniques and products to provide effective facial and body treatments. The philosophy here is no-frills and no-nonsense, just good skin products that offer real results. L/F, Gaysorn, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-656-1421/2. BTS Chidlom. Open daily 10am-9pm. YM18
S MEDICAL SPA — Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, the award-winning spa creates real beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs. 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Rd., 02-253-1010. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 10am-9pm. www. smedspa.com. YL20 SPA@TONSON — This resort style spa includes nine treatment rooms and utilizes ancient Asian healing techniques through a range of treatments. The highlight has to be the special 4-hand massage. 5F, Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-658-7980. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-9pm. www.spatonson.com YN20
Y
TRIA
THE ORIENTAL SPA — The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. XJ9 THANN SANCTUARY SPA — Their treatments use locally-made spa products and are offered within a tranquil space. 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.thann.info YM18
APEX SKIN CENTER — If you’re trying to solve some skin issues, check out this well established and popular skin center for state-of-the-art treatments from Botox to micro-dermabrasion. 3/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-644-8613/-4. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-9pm. More branches: www.apexskincenter.com ZC6 PUTTHARAKSA — From non-invasive face lifts to the derma roller regeneration treatment, their aesthetic care is all about helping your body heal itself. Get further support through their anti-aging treatments. 1535 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-6336. BTS Phrakhanong. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-9pm, Sun noon- 6pm. www.puttharaksaclinic.com
WHERE SPECIAL | Wellness
Sook Sabai Health Massage
Sook Sabai Health Massage is an oasis in the modern jungle that takes you back to the golden era of China’s Qin dynasty and its indulgent palaces. Lounge in a couch, recover from the heat and your busy lifestyle with a refreshing drink, and choose to enjoy one of our treatments. Our skillful therapists promise to deliver the best indulgence for your utmost relaxation. Get to enjoy the Sook Sabai experience everyday, from 10:00am – 10:30pm. Sook Sabai Health Massage, 23/13-14 YJA Building 3rd Floor, Soi Saladaeng 1, Silom Rd., Bangrak, Bangkok. For reservations, call 02-637-5575. Email : info@sooksabaispa.com. www.sooksabaispa.com
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SHOPS+SERVICES
AMARIN PLAZA — The mall’s Greco-Roman façade actually hides some unexpected gems. ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs. 496-502 Phloenchit Rd., 02-650-4704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com YM18
SIAM PARAGON — With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like H&M and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a cinema. As well as lots of restaurants, there’s also a food court in the basement. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-6901000. BTS Siam. www.siamparagon.co.th YM17
CENTRALWORLD — This massive shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000-sqmeters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap, Coach and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites like Boudoir, Kloset and Vickteerat. Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www.centralworld.co.th YM18
SIAM DISCOVERY — The sister mall of Siam Center celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul in 2011, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamdiscovery.co.th YM16
DOWNTOWN
CENTRAL CHIDLOM — The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrods, Central Chidlom first opened in 1973 and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Ralph Lauren, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the impressive food hall on the ground floor and the views from the international food court, up on the seventh. 1027 Phloenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th YM19 ERAWAN BANGKOK — This mini-mall might look petite, but its three floors offer some high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including Comme des Garçons, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Lanvin and Alexander Wang. 494 Phloenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com YM18 GAYSORN — Thailand’s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Céline) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Phloenchit Rd., 02-656-1149. BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com YM18 MBK CENTER — Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and at bargain prices. As a result, the chaotic MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good quality. Still, it’s a lot of fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www. mbk-center.co.th YM16 PLATINUM FASHION MALL — Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashion-related from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even a single item is very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02121-8000. www.platinumfashionmall.com YK18 SIAM CENTER — One of the city’s most iconic malls reopened at the start of this year after a major renovation and offers new inspirational spaces for art and design, befitting its traditional reputation at the vanguard of the local fashion scene. The highlight is the Fashion Visionary space on the third floor, home to the flagship stores of top Thai designers like Something Boudoir, Theatre, Flynow III and multi-Thai-label store The Selected. There’s a good food court, too. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamcenter. co.th YM16
SUKHUMVIT THE EMPORIUM — Set in the heart of an upscale residential area, The Emporium offers luxury shopping, thanks to its tenant portfolio, brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dior and Celine, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal and Jim Thompson. There are also lots of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative & Design Center on the top floor. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www. emporiumthailand.com ZC4 TERMINAL 21 — Boasting an airport terminal-cuminternational destinations theme, the nine floors let you stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the upper floors offer intriguing boutiques by Thai designers. There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-1080888. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www. terminal21.co.th ZB3
ELSEWHERE RIVER CITY— Situated right on the river, the third and fourth floors of this mall are packed with boutique stores selling the very best in Thai and South East Asian art, antiques and artefacts. Once you’re done shopping you can also take advantage of the collection of bars and restaurants on the ground floor, which offer great river views out on the terrace. Open daily 10am-10pm. Yotha Rd., 02-237-0077. www.therivercity.com. Free ferry from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Thaksin). CHATUCHAK MARKET — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is a vast weekend market. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products each section offers. You can literally spend days amid the warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 10-24 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-decor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-5pm.
Y TOP SILK SHOPS
JIM THOMPSON
Almeta Manufacturing its own silk, Almeta is known for its high quality and the sheer range of its Thai fabrics, with over 1,000 different colors as well as multiple different yarn types and weights. You can buy many different silk products such as cushions and scarves and even furniture, making it a perfect spot for gifts. They have no minimum quantity for orders and can provide woven-to-order fabrics. 20/3 Sukhumvit Soi 23. 02-204-1413. BTS Asok. Open 10am-6pm. www.almeta.com
Jim Thompson American-born Jim Thompson established the Thai Silk Company Limited in 1948. Despite his mysterious disappearance in 1967, the company’s reputation has continued to grow globally. Numerous stores offer a huge choice of colors, patterns and products from sophisticated skirts to cute toy elephants. 9 Surawong Rd., 02-632-8100. BTS Sala Daeng. Retail shop and restaurant open 9am-9pm, home furnishing open 9am-7pm. www.jimthompson.com
Anita Silk Almost 50 years old, Anita Silk was one of the first silk stores in Bangkok and is still producing hand-woven fabric. They pride themselves on their eye for design and have a full home range including bedding, curtains, dining sets and accessories. 432 4/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd. 02-129-4536. BTS Siam. Open 11am-8pm. www. anitasilk.com
ASIATIQUE — This evenings-only shopping center on the banks of the Chao Phraya River is themed according to the city’s old architecture. Divided into sections, ranging from the waterfront to a 100-year old refurbished sawmill, it includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashions and intriguing souvenirs, plus offers a variety of eateries and wine bars. Asiatique is also home to a large ferris wheel, Calypso Cabaret, Joe Louis puppet theater and the dramatic new show Muay Thai Live. Free ferry from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin). 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488. Open daily 4pm-midnight. www. asiatiquethailand.com. OP PLACE — Situated in a beautiful neoclassicalstyle building close to the river, this luxury mall oozes charm from the sweeping wooden staircase to the antique lift. It’s home to a host of high-end boutiques offering unique and rare antiques and artifacts from across Southeast Asia, handcrafted jewelry, bespoke tailors and fine art. 30/1 Charoenkrung Soi 38, 02-2660186. Open daily 10:30am-7pm. XJ9
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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND
MARCH -AP RIL 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 29
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the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically-challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.
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AIRPORT LINK—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (tenminute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 one-way and B150 roundtrip for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.
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Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã TO BANG WA STATION
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1. Blue Elephant I13 2. Chef Man I13 3. D’Sens F10 4. Eat Me G11 5. Jim Thompson H8 P 6. Le Du G11 7. Le Normandie J9 8. Nahm G13 Memorial Bridge 9. Rice&Chili I13Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊоҹ¾Ø·¸ 10. Ruen Urai G8 11. Sensi G14 12. Somtum Der F11 13. 661 Silom I11
Nightlife
Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤
Q
Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡Ãا
7
Dining
6
St. Louis Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅૹµ ËÅØÂÊ
4
21
2
City Viva
Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์
Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢
I
J
2 2
8 3
6
àÍ¡ÁÑÂ
EARIN G
11
Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์
Ekkamai
TO B
8
5
H
10 11
4
6
9
Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ã㵌
G
9
3
Si Lom Rd.
10
12
Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ
Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63
Silom Soi 4
TO BANG SUE STATION
3
Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ãà˹×Í
4 2
F
5
SILOM14
13
Lumphini
Rama 4 Rd. TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION
Terminal Í¡ÁÑÂ
3
8
7
Y
8
23
EXPRESS RIVER BOATS—25These fast and 24
X
frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a Wat Arun Tha Tien Piergreat way to get a different perspective on Tha the·‹Phrachan city,Pier ÇÑ´ÍÃس 4. Devarana Spa F10 Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã ·‹ÒàµÕ¹ as well as a good option for getting to many of the 5. Divana Virtue Spa I12 temples and palaces built along the river. The main 6. Health Land H123 Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan 7. So SPA F12 6 1 Taksin with boats heading upstream from here 8. Sook Sabai F11 and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to 9. Spa Botanica G13 10. The Oriental Nonthaburi. Fares range from 9 B15 to B42 depend1 1 Spa J9 ing on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket Wat Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ Wat Po ÇѴ⾸Ô์ (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and Shopping 2 1. Jim Thompson F8 comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading 2. OP Place J9 tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferArt & Attractions 1. Artery Post-Modern Wat Rajapardit ries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique. ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃдÔÉ°
Gallery I11 2. Art In Effect F12 3. 338 OIDA F14 4. H Gallery H11 5. Kathmandu Photo Gallery I11 6. Serindia Gallery J9 7. Silom Galleria: CVN/Number 1 R Health & Wellness Gallery/Thavibu/ Tang Gallery I10 1. Away Spa H12 IndiaËŒEmporium Ò§ÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ The Old Siam Plaza ÂÁ White Space 2. Body Tune G10 ÍÔ¹à´Õ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕ8. ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ Gallery F12 3. Borisud Pure Spa China World ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´ B I12 urap a 1. Cloud 47 G10 2. DJ Station F9 3. Ku De Ta H12 4. Maggie Choo’s J10 5. Park Society F12 6. Scarlett H10 7. Theatre Bar I12 8. Woo Bar H12
S
SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND—The
BTS skytrain Wat stops at Bangkok’s main districts and Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·Ñȹ gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom Line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two Rd. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are ¶¹lines. ¹ºÙþ Ò B130.
2
The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an 26 27 28 extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) on Wang the Lang outskirts of Chinatown, down through the Pier âç¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇѧËÅѧ » ÂÁËÒÃÒª¡ÒÃس main Central Business District6 before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asok—MRT 4 Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng—MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. 1
Tickets can be bought3 for individual journeys, 5 Phra Athit Pier or you can get special one-day tourist passes or ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍҷԵ tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For Chana Songkram more information,Watgo to www.bts.co.th and www. ÇÑ´ª¹Ðʧ¤ÃÒÁ bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems. Police Station ʶҹյÓÃǨ
TAXIS—In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes Democracy try toMonument negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the ͹ØÊÒÇÃÕ »ÃЪҸԻäµÂ metered price. 5
7 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 31 MARCH -AP RIL
Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò
Wat Saket ÇÑ´ÊÃÐࡵØ
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7
8
9
Chamchuri Square ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ
3
10
11 Lumpini Park ÊǹÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ
TO NATIONAL STADIUM STATION
Si Lom ÊÕÅÁ
Chulalongkorn Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒŨؿÒŧ¡Ã³
12 ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ
NAVIGATE
2
8
3
¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4
12
2
Sala Daeng
Jim Thompson
Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§
ÈÒÅÒá´§
Silom Soi 2
5 7
8
2 Silom Complex
Thaniya Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ
H
Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑ TO B
STATIO
N
Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42
minal ÁÑÂ
EARIN G
Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢
I
4
7 6
10 OP Place
22
ally from 8:30am to 3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡Ãا malls open daily, 10am-8pm.
23
8
24
Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃس
Nightlife
Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã
1. Babble & Rum Q27 TO BANG WA STATION
25
2 Tha Phrachan Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã
Tha Tien Pier ·‹ÒàµÕ¹
6 1
4. National Museum Q27 5. Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall S26 6. Royal Barge Museum P27 7. The Queen’s Gallery S27 8. Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) P22 Saphan 9. Wat Phra KaeoTaksin (Temple of the Emerald ÊоҹµÒ¡ÊÔ ¹ Buddha) Q25 10. Wat Po Q24
Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ BANKING HOURS— Banking hours are gener-
ATMS—ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside of 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.
Oriental Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕ¹àµÅ
J
21
W
Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ã㵌
Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ
6
8
make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over (Sukhumvit Soi 1-3, 02-667-1000, emergency 4 1 6 the “VAT REFUND from stores displaying FOR 02-667-2999), Bangkok Hospital (Soi Soonvijai, TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of Petchaburi Rd., 02-310-3000), BNH Hospital the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase (Convent Rd., 02-686-2700), Samitivej Sukhumvit the item present your passport and ask the sales (Sukhumvit 49, 02-711-8181), Siriraj SiPH (PhranNarathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์ assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund nok Rd., 1474). Application for Tourists form, attaching the original Chong Nonsi tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and 8 ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ 1Dining before you check-in, present your goods and3 the 1. Eat Sight Story P23 4 City Viva 62. Supatra Riverside P26 refund form to customs officers to get your form 6 3. Sala Rattanakosin P23 stamped. After check-in and immigration, proceed 4. Seven SpoonsSt. Louis T27 Hospital to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. âç¾ÂÒºÒÅૹµ ËÅØÂÊ 5. Sheepshank Q27 Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ Refund amounts under B30,000, will be made in 6. The Deck P23 5 5 13 cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to 2 Pan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹ Art & Attractions your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000, 1 1.7 Grand Palace/Museum of Textiles Q25 Surasak will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit ÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ Q23 2.9 Museum ÊØSiam Soi Silom 19 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 1 3. card account. 3 National Gallery Q27 7 ¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ
getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo 10 opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a G price before getting 5 in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.
12
9
11 HOSPITALS—Bumrungrad International,
Soi Convent «Í¤͹áǹµ VAT REFUNDS—Visitors to Thailand who
Si Lom Rd.
Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63
TUK-TUKS—Tuk-tuks are a noisy but of Silomfun Soi way 4
TO BANG SUE STATION
3
Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ãà˹×Í
4
TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION
BANGKOK F
10 11
14
Rama 4 Rd.
Y
5
13
Lumphini
RATTANAKOSIN28
26
27
Wang Lang Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇѧËÅѧ
Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) âç¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª » ÂÁËÒÃÒª¡ÒÃسÂ
6
3
P 1
1 Memorial Bridge Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊоҹ¾Ø·¸
2
9
4
Wat Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ
Wat Po ÇѴ⾸Ô์
1 3
6
Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤
Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹Ðʧ¤ÃÒÁ
Wat Rajapardit ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃдÔÉ°
Q
hit
5
Phra Athit Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ
Wat Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·Ñȹ
Police Station ʶҹյÓÃǨ
TO BEARING STATION
8 1
R
Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ
2 2
India Emporium ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ÍÔ¹à´Õ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ
The Old Siam Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´
Democracy Monument
Bura
pa R
͹ØÊÒÇÃÕ »ÃЪҸԻäµÂ
d. ¶¹
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5
Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò
S
7
Wat Saket ÇÑ´ÊÃÐࡵØ
T
W
4
32 W H E R E T H A I L AND I MA RCH- A PRI L 2 0 1 4
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Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·
Soi Sukhumvit 38
Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢Ø
8
Soi Sukhumvit 40 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·
ÊǹÊÒ¸ÒóàºÞ¨¡ÔµµÔ
Soi Sukhumvit 26 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·
Soi Sukhumvit 24 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁ
Soi
Queen Sirikit National Convention Center Èٹ »ÃЪØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์
Benchakitti Park
E
Soi
Soi Sukhum
D
ʶҹբ¹Ê‹§àÍ¡ÁÑÂ
I
BANGKOK
NAVIGATE
J
TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION
TO MO CHIT STATION
15
Y
16
17
18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ
19
SIAM21
20
Ratchathewi Platinum Mall á¾ÅµµÔ¹ÑÁ ÁÍÅÅ
11
6
11 1
L 4 2
Siam Discovery ÊÂÒÁ´ÔʤѿàÇÍÃÕ่
Central World à«็¹·ÃÑÅàÇÔà Ŵ
5
Siam Center ÊÂÒÁà«็¹àµÍÃ
Siam Paragon ÊÂÒÁ¾ÒÃҡ͹
2,6,11 9
Wat Patum Wanaram ÇÑ´»·ØÁǹÒÃÒÁ
8
1
ZEN à«็¹
Gaysorn ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒà¡ÉÃ
Chit Lom ªÔ´ÅÁ
P
Memorial Bri ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊ
9
2
Phloen Chit
Central Chidlom ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à«็¹·ÃÑŪԴÅÁ
à¾ÅÔ¹¨Ôµ
¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 1
3
Digital Gateway ´Ô¨ÔµÍÅà¡็µàÇÂ
Royal Thai Police Êӹѡ§Ò¹µÓÃǨáË‹§ªÒµÔ
General Police Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒŵÓÃǨ
Amarin Plaza Erawan Bangkok ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒÍÑÁÃÔ¹·Ã ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒàÍÃÒÇѹ
5
4
7
Y
Henri Dunant Rd. ¶¹¹ ÍѧÃÕ´Ù¹Ñǵ
N
Phaya Thai Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÞÒä·
10
Royal Bangkok Sports Club
4
4
Ratchadamri
3
3
1
2 2
7
1
R
ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ
S 5
Sarasin Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒÃÊÔ¹
O
Dining
12
8
10
Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ
ÊÂÒÁ
MBK ÁÒºØÞ¤Ãͧ
Soi Tonson «Í µŒ¹Ê¹
M
TO BEARING STATION
Siam Soi Lang Suan «Í ËÅѧÊǹ
ʹÒÁ¡ÕÌÒáË‹§ªÒµÔ
Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤
Q
Rama 1 Rd.
National Stadium
6
Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ
3
Chit Lom Rd. ¶¹¹ªÔ´ÅÁ
Ratchadamri Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ
K
Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ
Pantip Plaza ¾Ñ¹·Ô¾Â ¾ÅÒ«‹Ò
Soi Som Khit «ÍÂÊÁ¤Ô´
ÃÒªà·ÇÕ
T
TO BANG WA
Y
8. Romrawin M19 9. S Medical Spa L20 1. Bawarchi M18 10. Spa@Tonson N20 2. Le Beaulieu N21 11. Thann Sanctuary 3. Elements M20 4. Erawan Tea Room N18 Spa M18 5. Gaggan O19 Shopping 6. Jim Thompson 1. Amarin Plaza M18 Restaurant & Bar L15 7. Kisara/Reflexions N21 2. Central Chidlom M19 3. CentralWorld M18 8. La Monita Taqueria 4. Erawan Bangkok M18 M21 5. Gaysorn M18 9. Shintori/Ying Yang/ 6. MBK Center M16 Zense/Horizons M18 7. Pantip Plaza K17 10. Shintaro N18 8. Platinum Mall K18 11. Sra Bua L17 9. Siam Center/Siam 12. Zuma N18 Discovery M16 Nightlife 10. Siam Paragon M17 1. Hyde & Seek M21 11. ZEN L18 2. Le Bar by Le Beaulieu Art & Attractions N21 1. 100 Tonson Gallery 3. The Speakeasy N19 4. The St Regis Bar N18 N20 2. Bangkok Art & Culture Health & Wellness Centre (BACC) M16 1. Aveda M17 3. Jim Thompson Art 2. Aster Spring M18 Center & House L1 5 3. Bhawa N21 4. Madame Tussauds 4. Elemis Spa N18 M16 5. i.Sawan N18 5. Siam Ocean World 6. Panpuri Spa M18 M17 7. Rarinjinda N19 6. Sombat Permpoon Gallery L21
ESSENTIAL NUMBERS Emergency Services (Fire Brigade, Police) 191 Airport Rail Link 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th Bangkok Taxi Call Center 1681 / 1661 Bangkok Mass Transit System (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th BTS Tourist Information Center : 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th
Bangkok Metro (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6ammidnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th Chao Phraya Express Boat Call Center 02-6236001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com Suvanbhumi International Airport 1722/02-1321888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) – 1672. www.tourismthailand.org Tourist Police 24-hour call center 1155
MARCH -AP RIL 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 33
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Y
21 THINGS WE LOVE about Thailand
7
!0 1 Playing 18 holes on the challenging but beautiful championship level golf course at the Mission Hills Golf Club (www. missionhillsphuket.com) in Phuket. 2 Escaping from the bustle of the city with a short boat ride to the Bangkok Tree House (www. bangkoktreehouse.com): a series of boxy, modern villas finished with wood and bamboo, that are hidden away among the verdant serenity of Phra Pradeng, also known as the green lung of Bangkok.
!7 6 Staying overnight at one of the boathouse rafts on Cheow Larn Lake in the stunning Kao Sok National Park in Phanga province. 7 Getting a fun and interactive lesson on Thainess at the Museum of Siam (www.museumsiam.com). 8 Sampling authentic Thai dishes served up at Nahm at the Metropolitan Hotel in Bangkok (http://tinyurl.com/l7py6wg) recently voted Asia’s top restaurant. 9 Checking into one of the spa
3 Wandering through the UNESCO World Heritage site at Sukothai, Thailand’s former capital city and home to numerous ancient temples. 4 Browsing for luxury fashion brands at the countless boutiques and high-end malls of Ratchaprasong Avenue (BTS Siam).
8
cottages for a full day of pampering and treatments at the beautifully appointed I.Sawan Residential Spa & Club (http://tinyurl.com/ktc7cry) at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok.
!6 !2 Enjoying the view of downtown
!7 Rummaging for everything from
Bangkok while sipping a cocktail at Octave, the rooftop bar at the Marriott on Sukhumvit Soi 57 (BTS Thong Lo, www.marriott.com).
edgy fashion to teakwood furniture at the world’s largest weekend market, Chatuchak (JJ) Market (MRT Kamphaeng Phet).
!3 Admiring the work of established
!8 Indulging in the decadent delights
and emerging Thai and international artists at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BTS National Stadium, www.bacc.or.th).
served up at Water Library in Thonglor (www.mywaterlibrary.com), a 12-course set menu that’s only open to eight people a night and uses the very best global ingredients.
!4 Watching the awe-inspiring sight of thousands of bats stream out of their cave to go hunting for the night at the beautiful Khao Yai National Park in Nakhon Ratchasima province.
!9 Splashing around on the slides
!5 Learning how to cook Thai food
@0 Sipping a warm cup of coffee
from old-school recipes at the beautiful Blue Elephant Cooking School (www.blueelephant.com).
while looking out over the mist at Moncham, the lush hilltop plateau situated within the Nong Hoi Royal Project near Chiang Mai.
!0 Strolling down Phuket Town’s heritage trail and experiencing the unique Baba-Nyonya architecture.
5 Snorkelling in the crystal clear
!1 Spending a very unique evening
waters off the beaches of Koh Lanta in the Andaman Sea.
out in the Gulf of Thailand fishing for squid off the coast of Hua Hin.
!2
and chutes at Black Mountain Water Park (www.blackmountainhuahin. com) in Hua Hin.
!6 Traveling back in time with a stay at the Le Meridien Koh Samui (www.lemeridien.com) on Lamai Beach, designed to represent a vintage Chinese village, complete with villas clad in classical Oriental details.
@1 Experiencing the natural beauty of the Andaman Sea, kayaking through the mangrove forests, caves and blue lagoons off the coast of Krabi province. Try www.seacanoe.net, who offer a wide range of tours.
where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore
UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.
CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg
34 W H E R E T H AILAND I MA RCH- A PRI L 2 0 1 4
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