Where® Thailand Febuary 2014

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Thailand

PLUS

F E B RU A R Y 2 0 14 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO 速

W W W. W H E R E T H A I L A N D . C O M

DREAM GETAWAYS

The ultimate destinations for a romantic escape

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CONTENTS where

®

l THAILAND l FEBRUARY 2014

The Guide BANGKOK 19 DINING Two exciting new restaurant openings and the latest dining news

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22 ARTS+ATTRACTIONS Three very different live performances to enjoy in the city

DREAM DESTINATIONS

24 NIGHTLIFE

Thailand's most romantic spots

A casino-inspired bar and the top spots to enjoy a glass of craft beer

AROUND THAILAND

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08 DINNER DATES Make the most of Valentine's Day with these alluring Bangkok restaurants

We explore the retro charms of the relocated train market

NEWS

28 HEALTH+WELLNESS One spa offers a fluid solution to stress relief

10 BANGKOK BUZZ The arrival of a pop-punk princess, a new dining hot spot and the latest airline news

30 MAPS Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin

12 ANDAMAN ARRIVALS A luxe hotel, a belated Chinese New Year and more 14 UPCOUNTRY NEWS Two historic-themed events, a flower festival and an Italian-inspired destination

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Sales Manager Sherry Maturose Kato

Editor Wachiraporn Janrut

Sales Associate Panatda Udomthanlak

General Manager James Fuss Managing Editor Grégoire Glachant Sub-editor Carl Dixon Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapon Contributors Monruedee Jansuttipan, Manisha Kalra

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant Cover Courtesy of Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th www.wherethailand.com

30 NAVIGATE 35 21 THINGS WE LOVE

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com

MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

facebook.com/wherethailand

ALSO INSIDE

16 GULF OF THAILAND A special golf package, a romantic deal and a host of new hotel openings

Managing Editor/Publisher Nick Measures

26 SHOPS+SERVICES

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

@where_thailand

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THE FOUR SEASONS TENTED CAMP GOLDEN TRIANGLE

SIAM ROMANCE

Seven dreamy destinations for the ultimate couple’s vacation. By Wachiraporn Janrut.

JUNGLE ADVENTURES IN CHIANG RAI If you’ve always wanted to lose yourself in the tropical jungle (without roughing it, of course) then The Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle is the perfect spot. Surrounded by lush jungle, it offers a range of unique activities and luxurious tented accommodation that’s set in an elephant camp in the heart of the Golden Triangle in Chiang Rai. After arriving at the resort by traditional long-tail boat, settle into one of their 54-sq-meter luxurious tents (complete with copper bathtub, an outdoor shower and an outdoor deck) before booking yourself into a mahout (elephant riding) THE FOUR training session. Then take your SEASONS lover on a sunrise trekking trip (B7,790 per couple) the next morning at 6am, during which you’ll see the sun rise from behind the mountains of Laos on the back of an elephant. The walk

will take you to the highest point of the camp where you can admire the beautiful scenery from the viewpoint pavilion, while enjoying some coffee, pastry and fruit. You’ll then be led down to the bathing pool to enjoy playtime together with your elephant. Other activities on offer include a boat trip to meet the local hill tribes, spa treatments, a private candle-lit dinner in the wine cellar, a torch-lit dinner at the elephant camp, and a rafting adventure and picnic. The resort offers two-night stay packages at B216,855 for a deluxe tent, and B193,155 for a superior tent which include a half-day of mahout training and Golden Triangle excursion, all meals and beverages (including house wines and spirits), one spa treatment per person per day and roundtrip airport transfers from Chiang Rai International Airport. For more information, visit www.fourseasons.com/ goldentriangle

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FEATURE where Y SUNDOWNERS WITH AN OCEAN VIEW IN PHUKET Thailand is blessed with plenty of beautiful spots to kick back after a hard day relaxing on the beach but there are few as impressive as Baba Nest, part of the luxurious Sri Panwa Phuket, a resort perched on the tip of Panwa Cape in the South East corner of Phuket. The 4,000-sq-meter deck sits on top of the entire resort and is hugged by a 360-degree infinity pool so that nothing blocks the panoramic view of Phang Nga Bay. Lay back on one of the comfy bean bags with your lover and sip some cocktails or champagne while enjoying the idyllic sunset scenery. The al fresco toilet is pretty cool, too. Sri Panwa Phuket offers villas ranging from a pool suite to five-bedroom pool villa, all of which boast ocean views. Rates start from B19,000 for a 100-sq-meter pool suite. Details at www.sripanwa.com

CHEOW LARN LAKE

WATCHING THE SUN RISE IN UBON RATCHATHANI

SRI PANWA

SEDHAPURA

PHA TAEM NATIONAL PARK

FLOATING THE NIGHT AWAY ON A RAFT HOUSE IN KHAO SOK

What could be more romantic than sipping a cup of coffee on the deck of your raft house In the far east of Thailand, Pha Taem National while drinking in the impressive natural Park is the first place in the Kingdom to beauty of Cheow Larn Lake with its huge welcome the new day. To add to the romance limestone pinnacles dramatically rising out levels, the 34,000-hectare park is home to a of the crystal clear water. It’s located in the mix of deciduous forest, fields of flowers and equally stunning Khao Sok Park, which is home dramatic rock formations like Sao Chaliang, to soaring limestone cliffs, caves, waterfalls where giant boulders are perched atop stone and picturesque lakes as well as monkeys, columns. A picturesque trail starts at the elephants and bears. From elephant trekking visitor center and runs along the foot to hiking trails and ziplines to tubing of a sheer cliff of layered, multidown the Sok River there are colored stone, halfway down plenty of exciting ways to to the Mekong. Water trickles explore the park. Alternatively, from the top of the cliff onto you could opt for a boat tour wild flowers at the base and its on the lake before settling walls are painted with prehistoric down in your own raft house depictions of animals, humans (http://tinyurl.com/n2bp9y5). and simple hand outlines. Once The 500 Rai Floating Resort done with your explorations you should offers three types of rooms: deluxe, SEDHAPURA head to Sedhapura by Tohsang Hotel, villa and family suites. Each deluxe the most romantic resort in Ubon room and villa can fit up to four Ratchathani, if not the country’s whole eastern people with its own toilets, though without airregion. It offers spacious pool villas overlooking con. Rates are B7,000 per night from Monday the Mekong River and Laos’ mountainous to Thursday and B8,000 per night from Friday scenery, with private outdoor Jacuzzi pools and to Sunday for a deluxe room, which includes rain showers. Rates are B15,000 for a 60-sqcomplimentary use of a kayak which is parked meter pool villa and B18,000 for a duplex outside the raft house during your stay. The 140-sq-meter deluxe pool villa. best period to travel to Khao Sok is from Details at www.tohsang.com/sedhapura December to April. FEBRUARY 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 5

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where FEATURE GET A BIRD’S EYE VIEW OF SUNRISE IN CHIANG MAI There are not many places in the world where you can sail silently over the tops of ancient temples, as the sun rises over the distant mountains and mixes with the early morning fires of nearby residents on your own personal chartered balloon flight. But here, high up in the chill morning air, you can admire the dramatic aerial view of the Northern Thai countryside before landing with bubbles as you enjoy a glass of sparkling wine to celebrate your return to terra firma. Balloon Adventure Thailand (www.balloonadventurethailand.com) offer packages starting from B8,500 per person which includes pick up and drop off back to your hotel after your romantic ride. Once you come back down to earth, hopefully without too much of a bump, then Proud Phu Fah, set in the lush green landscape of Mae Rim district, is the ideal rural idyll. The resort offers 20 rooms and villas with private Jacuzzi and swimming pools. While the villa zone has views of the stream, the rooms in the Phu Zone feature contemporary white furnishings and mountain views. Rates start from B4,500 for a villa without air con and B14,000 for a villa with a private swimming pool.

While the Hansar offers equally impressive accommodation, we think that the sheer opulence of the ancient Chineseinfluenced design of the 165-sq-meter pool villa at Le Meridien Resort just wins out in the romance stakes. On top of a 25-sqmeter ocean-facing infinity salt water lap pool, the ocean-front villa offers a spacious outdoor bathroom, with a bath tub, huge rain forest shower and a delightful open-air pavilion, the perfect spot to relax with your lover. Through December 2014, it’s offering the Romance + Relax package at B7,999 per night for a pool suite or B16,900 per night for an ocean front pool villa, which includes a roundtrip airport transfer, an hour’s massage for two and a three-course set dinner. A minimum stay of three nights is required.

PROUD PHU FAH

Details at www.lemeridienkohsamui.com

EXPERIENCE A LUXE ROBINSON CRUSOE ADVENTURE

Want to get away from it all on a private island that offers a blissful mix of pristine beaches, verdant coconut groves and amazing views of Phang Nga Bay and the Phuket coastline. You can’t go wrong at The Naka Island Resort, with its 67 pool villas Details at www.proudphufah.com which range from the 350 to 450-sq-meter tropical pool villa to the staggering FINE DINING ON 1,600-sq-meter royal horizon THE FINE SANDS OF pool villa and its unforgetable KOH SAMUI 546-square-meter infinity pool. Food is the way to many people’s All villas are equipped with a H-BISTRO heart, so throw in candle light KOH SAMUI private pool, an outdoor bathtub and the soft sand between your and a steam shower, but if you can feet and you’ve got a winning combination. tear yourself away, then why not take in a One of the best places to do just that sunset scene from the deck of the resort’s is H-Bistro at the Hansar Samui (www. own sail boat (B1,500 per session for hansarsamui.com/h-bistro), which is headed guests). Perfect for a honeymoon escape, by Canadian Executive Chef Stephen Jean through October 31, the resort’s offering Dion, a former private chef to the King an Essential Romance package at B27,100 of Jordan, who spent five years at the per night for a minimum stay of two nights renowned Lebua at State Tower Bangkok. in a tropical pool villa, which also includes Set on a tranquil beach in Bophut, the a 90-minute massage and a 60-minute restaurant has an expansive terrace with Watsu treatment for two, plus airport and tables overlooking the Andaman Sea and speedboat transfers. serves up gourmet French Mediterranean Details at www.nakaislandphuket.com and authentic Thai dishes best enjoyed with their fine selection of wine.

LE MERIDIEN KOH SAMUI

BALLOON ADVENTURE THAILAND

THE NAKA ISLAND

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THE NAKA ISLAND

H-BISTRO KOH SAMUI

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FOOD FOR THE HEART

The best romantic dining venues in Bangkok to celebrate Valentine’s Day.

LOVE A LOCAL

- Spice things up with some delicious Thai food served up with both style and substance.

PASTE

Bo.Lan

Paste

Chefs Duangporn Songvisava (Bo) and Dylan Jones previously worked at David Thompson’s Michelin-star Thai restaurant, Nahm, in the UK (which is now located here, in Bangkok at the Metropolitan Hotel). As such Bo.Lan serves authentic Thai dishes, most of which are derived from ancient recipes, presented in a contemporary style. Situated in an old home, the decor makes generous use of unadorned wood and wickerwork, while the dim lighting and intimate dining room make it a very romantic spot. They do offer a la carte but you’re better off trying their set menu, the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes quarterly to reflect seasonal products that are bought fresh from the market daily.

Paste was one of the most exciting openings in 2013. For one, it’s Thai food, which always gets extra points in our book. Secondly, the Australian-Thai couple in the kitchen isn’t shy of personalizing recipes (please don’t call it fusion). Thirdly, the food is delicious. What does impress is dishes like the stock-poached pork neck with chili, red grapefruit, local flowers and toasted sticky rice (B380).

42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962. Open Tue-Sun 6:30-11pm.

This 37th-floor wine bar includes a breezy outdoor terrace, which packs serious wow power thanks to its city skyline view. An extensive and pretty affordable wine list, the industrial-bistro decor, DJs at the weekend and a menu of classic dishes and tapas make this great for a fun and flirty date night.

Issaya Siamese Club Celebrity chef Ian Kittichai tastefully revamped this charming two-story old mansion set in a lush garden, with a blend of vintage style and vibrant colors. It makes for a delightful spot to sample the chef’s menu of local classics made with inventive twists and using the best ingredients—some straight from his own organic garden. Try the decadently sticky and sweet chili-glazed baby back ribs (kradook moo ob) or the spicy and refreshing yum hua plee, an elegant pillar of crisp heart of palm and bamboo flower salad. Just make sure you and your date save space for Kittichai’s amazing reinterpretations of tradtional Thai desserts—they are all great. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chuaphloeng Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 6pm-midnight.

SALA RATTANAKOSIN

120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-392-4313. Open Wed-Sun noon-2:30pm; Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight.

HIGH-RISE DINING

- Add a touch of starry romance to your meal with these rooftop venues.

SCARLETT

Scarlett

37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02-2381991. Open daily 6pm-1am.

ISSAYA

BO.LAN

Maya Its cantilevered structure with sky-high views of Sukhumvit has made this Indian restaurant the talk of the town. The North Indian cuisine by Chef Ramneek Singh Lamba is just as impressive, such as the murgh chandi kebab (marinated chicken with yogurt, cardamom and mace) or the crispy okra with cashew and mango powder. 29/F, Holiday Inn Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02683-4704. BTS Phrom Pong. Open daily 6pm-1am.

MAYA

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FEATURE where Y RIVERSIDE

WOW FACTOR

—The Chao Phraya River acts as the scenic backdrop at these intimate eateries.

- Three places set to impress with their modern cooking and striking decor.

Sala Rattanakosin

Water Library

This stylish outdoor restaurant (with a few guestrooms in the main building) serves up Western and Thai dishes made by British Chef Tony Wrigley. But it’s the visual feast thanks to what’s probably the city’s best view Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn), sat just across the river, that pulls in the crowds. There’s also a rooftop bar up on the 5/F, which is perfect for pre- or post-dinner drinks. Sala Rattanakosin, 39 Soi Ta Tien, Maharaj Rd., 02-622-1388. Open daily 7am-10pm.

Chon Overlooking the river, Chon is the signature Thai restaurant of the gorgeous The Siam Hotel. Set in a beautiful Thai teak house brought here from Ayutthaya, it packs an impressive array of antiques and collectables. To match the classic decor, the menu is a collection of authentic Thai recipes. Note that the best way to get there is by a 40-minute boat ride that they can arrange, departing from Saphan Taksin Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin). The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., 02-206-6999. Open daily noon-10:30pm, reservation only.

A perfect spot for special occasions this has the added appeal of being very exclusive, with a maximum of just 10 diners per night able to enjoy their exciting 12 course degustation menu. Dinner starts at 7:30pm on the dot but we recommend getting there early to enjoy a few well-mixed cocktails in the understated but very sexy bar and terrace downstairs. Then head up to the minimal but cozy dining room to enjoy the experience of having a team of chefs prepare very modern dishes right in front of you, utilizing the very WATER LIBRARY best ingredients. The Grass Thonglor 12, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-9292/-3. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am.

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin This restaurant is the sister of Kiin Kiin, in Copenhagen, the world’s only current Michelinstar restaurant doing exclusively Thai food. But be forewarned that these are very modern interpretations of authentic Thai flavors: coconut soup transforms into a fragrant frozen cream, a hearty plate of stir-fried pork with a fried egg becomes a bite-sized treat inside an egg-shell. The palatial décor, complete with miniature rice fields and a sala made of metal latticework, give the space all the opulence and allure worthy of a special occasion. Siam Kempinski, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. www. kempinski.com. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10:30pm. BTS Siam.

Y VALENTINE’S DAY DEALS

BABBLE & RUM

Seven Seas Spend B1,500 on food and drink and you’ll enter the lucky draws with prizes including sparkling wine and up to 25% discount on food. Sukhumvit Soi 4, 02-656-7881.

Luce B5,950 (per couple) for 5-course Italian set menu with a rooftop view over Bangkok. 14/F, Eastin Hotel, Sathorn Rd., 02-2108100. www.eastingrandsathorn.com. BTS Surasak.

Three Sixty Jazz Lounge Trek over to Thonburi for a B14,000 (per couple) 4-course set menu with a bottle of Champagne and you’ll also enjoy a glorious view of Bangkok city and the river at this rooftop spot. 31/F, Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-442-2000. Free shuttle boat from Saphan Taksin Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin).

Patara The classic Thai restaurant offers an affordable set menu at B490 for 3 courses and B550 for 4 courses. 375 Thonglor Soi 19, 02-185-2960-1. www.patarathailand. com

Rossini’s Popular Italian restaurant Rossini’s offers a B6,000 (per couple) 5-course set menu presented by new Chef Paride Noviello. The menu is also available from Feb 10-16. Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8888. BTS Asok.

Babble & Rum

Gaggan

SRA BUA

GAGGAN

Chef Gaggan Anand did a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, and developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and wow-worthy construction. Expect foaming, sous-vide, dehydrating and more alongside your traditional curries. Splurge on the degustation menu and put yourself in the chef’s able hands. Even better, the magic happens in an enchanting white wood house that’s staffed by friendly and wellinformed staff. 68/1 Soi Lang Suan, 02-652-1700. Open daily 6-11pm.

Enjoy the riverside ambience with a B6,000 (per couple) 5-course international set menu (B8,000 with free flow sparkling options) in the charming old town area. Riva Surya, 23 Phra Arthit Rd., 02-633-5000. www.rivasurya.com

Blue Elephant B2,800 for Thai set menu amid the beautiful colonial vibe. 233 Sathorn Rd., 02673-9353. BTS Surasak.

Paste B1,700 for 3-course set dinner with a glass of signature cocktail. 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49 (opposite Samitivej Hospital), 02-3924313. www.pastebangkok.com

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ISSUE CAFE

CAPITAL

AFFAIRS

Grand openings, hot promotions and special events in Bangkok GROOVE

Keep on Grooving

Latest Issue

Here’s an unmissable new dining and New fashion pop-up store Another nightlife opening just perfect for wornAlternative sees hip local clothing brand out shoppers looking to kick Issue expanding into dining. The very artsy back after a hard day’s Issue Café (1/F Siam Center, 989 Rama browsing at downtown 1 Rd., BTS Siam) serves up simple mall CentralWorld. Run but comforting lunch-time favorites by the Central Group and like guay tiew kai sub (noodles occupying 20,000 square with chicken, B168) and khao hor meters right beside the bai tong (baked rice with banana huge shopping complex, leaf, B259) plus lots of drink options Groove is looking to gather served in cute glass bottles. GARDENS together some of the city’s best- THE OF DINSOR PALACE known restaurants, gastro bars and patisseries like Maxim’s The Gardens of Dinsor Palace Bistro, Cicchetti, Fauchon, Harrods, (1217/2 Sukhumvit Soi 59-61, www. Hyde and Seek, HOBs, 1881 by Water thegardenspalace.com) is the kind of place Library and S’mores. It’s not fully open you can visit any time of day with its serene yet but, with its dynamic, spaceship-like atmosphere courtesy of the rabbits hopping facade, semi-alfresco courtyard and more about and its geese. There are four eateries grown-up dining options, it really makes to choose from, too: fine-dining Rendez Vous a refreshing addition to the area. Rama 1 (lunch sets start at B590), Gabriel’s Bistro & Rd., 02-264-5555. BTS Chidlom. Grill (French appetizer lunch buffet at B390), Napoleon Bakery & Café and the soon-toopen Aspen Steakhouse.

Dine in the Garden

AVRIL LAVIGNE

Avril Lavigne is Bangkok-bound It seems that the guilty pleasures of the early 2000s might be coming back to haunt us as pop-punk princess Avril Lavigne returns to Bangkok for a concert on February 11 at Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani. The Canadian singersongwriter has a large back catalogue to draw from having released five massively successful albums since her debut album Let Go in 2002. She’s set to perform all her classics including “My Happy Ending,” “Sk8ter Boi,” and the global number one “Complicated” as well as tracks from her new self-titled album. We’ll keep you posted should her husband, Nickelback’s Chad Kroeger, decide to bring his band along as well. Tickets range from B1,000-B4,500 and are available at www. thaiticketmajor.com

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NEWS where Y AIRLINE NEWS Convenience Plus

AIR ASIA

BANGKOK AIRWAYS

Low cost carrier Thai AirAsia is looking out for its travelers flying to Sukhothai, Pai and Koh Lanta with the launch of new transfer services. The budget airline is offering a roundtrip flight plus shuttle van transfers from Phitsanulok Airport to Sukhothai from about B2,500 per person and from Chiang Mai Airport to Pai at B5,000 per person. For passengers traveling from Bangkok to Koh Lanta, it’s offering a roundtrip flight plus a shuttle van service from Krabi Airport to the pier and a ferry service to Koh Lanta at about B4,500 per person. Everything is included through one simple booking, with rates differing depending on travel dates. Visit www.airasia.com or call 02-515-9999.

Double Team

Boutique Check-in?

One of Thailand’s low-cost carrier Nok Air is all set to join forces with Singapore Airlines subsidiary Scoot to establish a new lowcost airline, NokScoot, to be based at Don Muang International Airport. Aiming to encourage more inbound tourists, NokScoot plans to offer competitive deals and more options to Thais and visitors to Thailand. Routes and introductory rates are still to be announced. Visit www.wherethailand.com or www.nokair.com for further updates.

Passengers of Bangkok Airways can now checkin for their flights by themselves at the Bangkok Airways’ common-use selfservice (CUSS) kiosks at Suvarnabhumi International Airport. The new check-in procedure allows you to check-in from 24 hours up to 50 minutes prior to departure time. The process seems to be simple enough: once you receive a boarding pass printed from the kiosk, you can then have your baggage loaded at Bangkok Airways check-in counter, F3.

Enjoy reading Where Thailand Magazine? Make sure you stay connected. Subscribe to e-Newsletters

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ISLAND POST What’s happening in Phuket and around the Andaman coast

TRANG UNDERWATER WEDDING CEREMONY

HYATT REGENCY PHUKET

INIALA

Ocean View

HYATT REGENCY PHUKET

PHUKET

The popular island getaway has welcomed a lot of new hotel and restaurant openings recently with the latest being the Hyatt Regency Phuket Resort (www.phuket. regency.hyatt.com), the chain’s first property in Phuket. Sat on the hillside overlooking Kamala Cove at the southern tip of Kamala Beach, it’s right between Surin’s swanky beach clubs and a 10 minutes’ drive to hot and steamy Patong. Phuket has the largest Chinese population Consisting of 199 rooms, the five-star in Thailand, with many Hokkien resort boasts unobstructed views of families migrating to Phuket the Andaman Sea from the large Town in the 19th Century. balconies of the rooms, which These immigrants range from 44- to 105-sqintegrated with the local meters. Opening rates start from population to create a B7,850 per night for an ocean distinctive Baba culture, view room. It’s also home to the which still retains many Regency Club, which offers exclusive original Chinese traditions CHINESE NEW YEAR access to a large infinity pool making New Year celebrations CELEBRATIONS overlooking the resort, personalized special. This year events will check-in/out, and complimentary take place after the official New Year on February 7-9, with an ‘ancient town’ theme beverages all day.

Phuket Airport Opens Chinese Celebrations Terminal X To serve the increasing number of tourists to Phuket, Phuket International Airport has extended its service by investing over B100 million to build a new Terminal X, which will officially open for passengers on February 5. There’ll also be a bus service in place to transfer passengers between the two terminals. The new terminal is expected to serve up to five million passengers a year or around 4,000 passengers an hour. Further expansion at the airport sees them currently constructing an additional five aircraft decks to ensure HKT can manage a capacity of 20 aircraft arrivals and departures at any one time.

where locals will wear vintage outfits and the streets are closed for parades, dragon dances, food stalls and fireworks. For details, call 076-214-306.

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NEWS where Y PHUKET

TRANG

Taking luxury to the next level, the newly opened Iniala Beach House (www. iniala.com) consists of just 10 bedrooms spread over three villas and a penthouse. Located on Natai Beach, the property is the work of 10 international designers, who’ve created a unique design for each room. Owned by Mark Weingard who was on Natai Beach when the Tsunami hit nine years ago, 10% of room revenue and 5% of other revenues from Iniala will go to charity. Rates start from US$4,000 (about B128,000) per night for a 415-sqmeter penthouse for two. The ultra-luxe package is designed to include everything you may need during your stay such as complimentary use of a vehicle, all meals including picnics, non-alcoholic beverages, two dinners per week at its gourmet restaurant headed by the threeMichelin-star chef Eneko Atxa and a daily three-hour massage in the penthouse.

With its unspoiled beaches and beautiful coral reefs, Trang is a lesser known destination that has plenty of appeal for divers and nature lovers. It also has its fair share of romance thanks to the annual Trang Underwater Wedding Ceremony. Now in its 18th year, the event will take place on February 10-12. It offers the chance to tie the knot with a traditional Thai wedding before registering your betrothal under the waves in a less-traditional underwater ceremony off Koh Kradan. Open for divers and non-divers, the event also sees couples planting the province’s symbolic Sri-Trang flowers at the Peninsular Botanic Garden, bridal parades and firework displays. The Trang Chamber of Commerce offers packages for bridal couples at B40,000 per couple, which includes a dive, wedding registration, two nights’ accommodation, meals and transportation in Trang. Details at www.underwaterwedding.com

Luxe Indulgence

TRANG UNDERWATER WEDDING CEREMONY

INIALA

Underwater Romance

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where NEWS TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND

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UPCOUNTRY NEWS TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND

New hotels, special deals and events from Chiang Mai and beyond.

LOY KRATHONG IN SUKHOTHAI

TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND

TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND

THE RED LOTUS SEA

THE KING NARAI REIGN FAIR

THE KING NARAI REIGN FAIR

LOPBURI

CHIANG MAI

This month sees one of Thailand’s most interesting cultural events take you back in time to the reign of King Narai and the Ayutthaya period (1565-1688). The King Narai Reign Fair will be held at his former palace in Lopburi province on February 15-23. Decorated with beautiful lights, the ancient citadel will take on a retro air thanks to the locals donning traditional Thai outfits and taking part in various cultural performances. You can also get dressed in authentic garb, which will be available for sale at the event. This year, there promises to be Ayutthaya-style parades with elephants and horses, light and sound shows at the palace and other quirky performances simulating the historical events that took place during the king’s reign. Other highlights will include a human chess display, monkey shows, and a retro market, which will accept only the Duang currency—the ancient coins used in the Ayutthaya period. Free entry. For more information, visit www.facebook.com/ kingnarai2014 or call 036-770-096-7.

The 38th Chiang Mai Flower Festival will be held on February 7-9, at Suan Buak Hat in Chiang Mai city. The three-day event will feature beautiful displays of various blooming flowers in an open-air setting. This year’s PRIMO PIAZZA highlights include a parade of decorated UDON THANI floral floats at the opening ceremony on Feb 8, which starts at Nawarat Bridge and then travels via Thapae Road, Kotchasarn Located 564km from Bangkok in Thailand’s MYANMAR Road, Changlor Road and Arak Road before Northeastern VIETNAMregion, Udon Thani is home finishing at Suan Buak Hat. The to the famous red lotus sea in Kumpavapi event, which runs daily district. Every day between December LAOS from 9am to midnight, and February, the lotus plants on Chiang Mai will include plant and top of the freshwater swamp will flower competitions, bloom between 9-11am, turning Udon Thani Sukhothai beauty pageants, the water into a floating carpet agricultural of pinkish-red flowers. Not exhibitions, and surprisingly, a boat tour on the Lopburi Khao Yai markets selling lake is highly recommended Bangkok flowers and local to get up close to the lotuses products. While and experience the serene you are there, check surroundings. For more information, out the Strawberry ANDAMAN Fair in visit www.tourismthailand.org or call Samoeng district whichSEA will be Tourism Authority of Thailand, Udon Thani held on February 6-9. For more information, Office on 042-325-406. AirAsia offers three GULF OF visit www.tourismthailand.org/Where-to- SIAMflights daily from Bangkok to Udon Thani at Go/Chiang-Mai or call 053-276-141. about B2,700 for a roundtrip.

Palace Fair

Flower Festival

Nature in Bloom

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TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND

NEWS where Y

LIGHT AND SOUND SHOW IN SUKHOTHAI

ARAI REIGN FAIR

SUKHOTHAI

KHAO YAI

Historic Show

Little Italy

The UNESCO World Heritage town of Sukhothai will be holding a series of monthly light and sound presentations from February through September, showcasing the ancient Thai capital’s history and culture. The events, organized by the Tourism Authority of Thailand, will include classical music performances, firework displays, and a Loi Krathong performance at 7-8.30pm, with narration available in English, Japanese, French and German. The monthly show will give you the chance to have your photo taken with the performers, float a krathong and launch a lantern. The event will take place on February 22, March 8, April 12, May 10, June 14, July 11, August 9, and September 13 at Wat Sasri inside the Sukhothai Historical Park. Free. For more information, visit www.toursimthailand.org or call 1672.

Khao Yai, a popular country getaway a couple of hours north of Bangkok, has just welcomed a new Tuscan-village-themed attraction, Primo Piazza. After a massive revamp what was formerly called Primo Pasto reopened in December last year. The spacious complex features classic Italian architecture and is set in a tranquil spot amid copious greenery. Here you’ll find Western and Thai fusion cuisine, a wine bar, café, souvenir shop and an Australianinspired barn housing numerous fluffy sheep. While you are there, have a drink or a meal outdoors to take in the fresh cool air. Open daily 9am-10pm, closed on TuesdayWednesday. Admission fees before 6pm are B100 for adults and B50 for children. Only the restaurants, wine bar and souvenir shop are open after 6pm. Details at www. primopiazza.com.

PRIMO PIAZZA

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where NEWS

V VILLAS HUA HIN

GULF GOSSIP The latest travel-related news from Hua Hin, Pattaya and Koh Samui

LET’S SEA HUA HIN

KOH CHANG

PATTAYA

Last November saw hospitality group Epi[K] urean Hotels & Lifestyle open its first property in Koh Chang in the form of the Parama Koh Chang. Set on Koh Chang Tai, on a secluded private beach that’s only accessible by boat, the luxurious beachfront resort takes on a holistic and wellness approach, which lets you enjoy such activities as sunrise yoga and a wide range of spa treatments. There are three room types ranging from a 40-sqmeter superior room to a 75-sq-meter ocean suite with a Jacuzzi bathtub and ocean view. Through February 28, the resort is offering opening packages starting from B13,250 for a two-night stay, which includes two spa treatments per person per day, roundtrip transfers from Koh Chang pier to the resort and a sunset cruise for two people. Specially for Where Thailand readers, the resort offers free-flow cocktails from 5:30 to 6:30pm. For more information, visit www.paramakohchang.com or call 039-671-025.

While the development of hotels and resorts in Pattaya is on the rise, only a handful seem to have much charm and character. Sugar Hut (038-251-686, www.sugar-hut.com) is certainly aiming to be one of those resorts. Set on a 4.65-hectare plot of land in a tranquil spot on Tabphya Road, it’s only eight minutes’ drive from Jomtien Beach. Here, surrounded by wildlife including peacocks and rabbits, the wooden Thai-style villas may have you forget that you are actually in the slightly salubrious surrounds of Pattaya. Equipped with all modern amenities, each 60-sq-meter one-bedroom villa has a separate living room next to the bedroom. Through April 30, it’s offering a special rate at B4,500 per night for a one-bedroom villa. If you stay for two consecutive nights, the rate is B4,000 per night, which includes a complimentary one-hour Thai massage for one person.

Peaceful Holiday

AMARI HUA HIN

Sugar Sugar

SUGAR HUT

PARAMA KOH CHANG

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NEWS where Y HUA HIN

Rosy Dinner

Luxe Intimacy MYANMAR

The stylish Let’s Sea Hua Hin Al Fresco Resort has just launched a special “Le Vie en Rose” Valentine’s dinner available throughout February. Priced at B2,222 per person, the four-course set dinner will be paired with La Vie en Rose, a roseinfused champagne cocktail, which is a mix of the French aperitif Lillet, rose syrup, rose petals and champagne. The resort is also offering special Life’s Good room packages which start from B5,222 per night for a 48-sq-meter Studio Pier pool access suite and B5,888 per night for a 68-sq-meter Moon Deck duplex suite. If you stay for two consecutive nights, you’ll receive a complimentary glass of La Vie en Rose. For details and other promotional packages, visit www.letussea.com.

The luxurious boutique beachside resort The royal beach resort of Hua Hin around V Villas Hua Hin has recently opened a three hours from Bangkok has just been LAOS new phase of development, just in time for named “Asia and Australia’s 2014 Golf a romantic escape in the month of love. Destination of the Year” by the International The 10 new 260-sq-meter one-bedroom Association of Golf Tourism Operators villas are equipped with a king-size bed, en (IAGTO). To celebrate, the Amari Hua Hin suite bathroom with rain shower together with the 27-hole Majesand twin Jacuzzi, as well as tic Creek Golf Course have Bangkok a Bose home entertainlaunched “Hua Hin’s Perfect ment system and wine Getaway Package.” Pattaya cellar. It also features Through June 30, it’s Hua Hin an outdoor garden offering a two-night ANDAMAN with a 9x3.75-meter stay in a 38-sq-meter SEA private swimming deluxe room at B8,000 GULF OF pool, sun loungers for two people, which SIAM and dining tables. includes complimentary Through March green fee and caddie, a 31, it’s offering openroundtrip transfer to the SOUTH ing rates starting from golf course, and single seafood CHINA SEA B16,000 per villa per night. For platter when dining at the Shoreline MALAYSIA more information, visit www.vvillashuaBeach Club. For details, visit www.amari. hin.com or call 02-309-3939. com/huahin or call 032-616-600.

Golf Getaway VIETNAM

INDONESIA

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ThewhereGuide FEBRUARY 2014 | BANGKOK

ART

Holy Kitsch Through Mar 28. Pornwipa Suriyakarn exhibits her works that combine commonplace objects into altar-like installations to allegorize the hybridization of old sacred worship practices and mundane objects in the modern age. Whitespace Gallery, 1 Sala Daeng Soi 1, Silom Rd., 02-2352500. MRT Silom. XF12

DINING..........................................................19-21 ARTS....................................................................22 ATTRACTIONS...............................................23

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NIGHTLIFE..................................................24-25 SHOPS + SERVICES.................................26-27 HEALTH + WELLNESS..................................28

NAVIGATE........................................................ 30 MAPS.............................................................31-34

Note that the reference at the end of the listings (WS24, ZD3, etc.) applies to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 33-36. Listings without coordinates indicate locations not within the maps.

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The Never Ending Summer Located in new compound The Jam Factory, which also houses a gallery and a bookstore, this Thai restaurant on the Thonburi side of the river has garnered quite a buzz since it first opened. The place is run by starchitect Duangrit Bunnag (Hotel de la Paix Cha-am, TCDC) and his partner, Naree Boonyakiat, who wanted to recreate the kind of recipes they enjoyed growing up in upper-class Bangkokian households. The chefs were made to study the partner’s favorite old recipes covering treats like pork stuffed with salted egg or soup with mackerel. The décor is rustic and cozy, yet sophisticated. 41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 094-485-3966. Open daily 11am-11pm. www.facebook. com/TheNeverEndingSummer

DOWNTOWN BAWARCHI — Indian $$$ This is the flagship branch of a chain of four Indian restaurants that all look to serve up traditional Mughali cuisine like chicken tikka and tandoori lamb chops in a contemporary setting. B/F Intercontinental Hotel, 973 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-0102-3. Open daily 11am-midnight. www.bawarchiindian.com YM18

BLUE ELEPHANT ­— Thai. $$$$ The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion, completed with a classic interior, where Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine. 233 South Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. BTS Surasak. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30–10:30pm. XI13

Y PICK LE BEAULIEU — French. $$$$ Chef Herve Frerard corks up hearty, rustic options like baked morteau sausage served with a rich tomato lentil sauce and terrine de pot au feu alongside bistro classics like bouillabaisse and sole meunière. These simple dishes use high-quality ingredients imported direct from France or making the most of the chef’s involvement with the Royal Projects. G/F, Athénée Office Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02168-8220-3. www.le-beulieu.com. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 6:30–10pm. YN21

1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 3pm-1am. XG11

Y PICK GAGGAN ­— Indian. $$$$ After a brief

stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and some wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02-652-1700. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 6pm-midnight. YO19

RUEN URAI — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house, decorated with a blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, it offers a polished menu of solid Thai recipes. Rose Hotel, 118, Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. XG8

Y PICK NAHM — Thai. $$$$ Former holder

of a Michelin star, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-6253333. Open daily noon-2pm, 7-11pm. XG13

Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Area guide Downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods Lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

D’SENS — French. $$$$ The French-imported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers offers all the oomph one might expect. The dimly-lit dining room has a great view of Lumphini Park, and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10pm. XF10

Y PICK EAT ME — International. $$$$ The

décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic. The kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection. FEBRUARY 2014 I W HER E THA ILA N D 19

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STEVE CAFE & CUISINE

661 Silom Sat in a space previously occupied by the popular Nius Concerto, 661 Silom (Baan Silom, 15 Silom Rd., 02-266-8661. www.661silom.com) is the new baby of the team behind French restaurant Le Beaulieu. Climb up to the 2/F to try Meat, which serves up high-quality New York-style steaks prepared by Chef Cyril Cocconi, previously of Elements (The Okura Prestige) and the kitchen of super-chef Joel Robuchon. Downstairs is the bar, Meet, home to the Dom Perignon lounge, which also serves breakfast and coffee during the day.

Steve Cafe and Cuisine After the success of the first branch of the curiously named Thai riverside restaurant Steve Cafe & Cuisine, now comes a second branch in Ari (Paholyothin Soi 5, 081-904-8444). Tucked away on the second floor above Japanese restaurant Hiso Sushi, the decor remains casual, with a big painting of the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall dominating proceedings. The Southern dishes are the same too, with options like the gaeng luang sai bua gung (Southern sour soup with lotus stems and prawns) and kua gling moo (stir-fried minced pork with herbs), making for a fiery meal.

Eat Sight Story It seems that there’s a rash of new riverside eateries. The latest is Eat Sight Story (45/1 Maharat Rd., 02-622-2163), owned by Sala Arun, which offers an uninterrupted view of Wat Arun. The place is adorable with its walls decorated with old wooden doors and a mix of Asian and European knick knacks. The kitchen serves up fusion dishes like nuea kraprao krob (stir-fried beef tenderloin with holy basil and pepper) and pizza kraprao moo (pizza with stir-fried pork and holy basil topping), while cocktails are also pretty reasonably priced starting from just B149.

SRA BUA — Thai. $$$$ The sister of Michelinstarred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen offers Thai food with a molecular twist in a soaring, glittering palace dotted with lotus ponds. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-11pm. YL17

Y PICK SIMPLE — International. $$ This cute and

LOWER SUKHUMVIT

Y PICK BO.LAN ­— Thai. $$$$ Chefs Bo and Dylan

11 GALLERY — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1 ABOVE ELEVEN — Fusion. $$$ The twist of this rooftop bar and restaurant, apart from a great city view, is a concept that focuses on Nikkei cuisine: a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. 32/F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-9300. www.aboveeleven.com. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZA1 OSKAR BISTRO — International. $$$ An excellent menu of comfort food, a long list of drinks and a great DJ mean this bistro, in the heart of club land, is a popular spot for supper and pre-club drinks. 24, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255 3377. Open daily 6-11pm. ZA1 SEVEN SEAS RESTAURANT — ­ Seafood/European. $$$ Offers a variety of tasty Thai, seafood and Western dishes in a cozy setting with a pleasant outdoor terrace. Recommended dishes include the tom yum soup and steamed Pomfret in soy and ginger. Sukhumvit Soi 4, 02-656-7881. Open daily. 12.30pm –1.30am. ZC1

UPPER SUKHUMVIT Y PICK APPIA ­— Italian. $$$ Jarret Wrisley of the

popular Soul Food Mahanakorn teams up with Chef Paolo Vitaletti who is committed to his family food principle, to create wonderful Roman-style pastas. Also, do expect a carefully curated wine selection. 20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-261-2056. Open daily 6-11pm. ZC4

NEAR EQUAL — Thai. $$-$$$ This long-term favorite is set in a quaint house down a lovely leafy street. Upstairs the wood floors and antique pieces make for a delightful spot to enjoy well-balanced Thai dishes; then head downstairs to browse the selection of Thai furniture and handicrafts. 22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-258-1564/5. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 5:30-9:30pm ZC5

Y PICK QUINCE — International. $$$ Quince’s Y PICK ISSAYA SIAMESE CLUB — ­ Thai. $$$-$$$$

Chef Ian Kittichai made his name in New York but returns home with this restaurant, set in a delightful wooden mansion and featuring inventive twists on classic Thai recipes. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., Sathorn Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. www.issaya.com

SOMTUM DER — Thai. $$ Yards from the bustle of Silom Rd., this spot brings typical street food into a more upmarket setting. The menu has a focus on somtam, a spicy Thai papaya salad, and other classic Northeastern dishes. 5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am-10pm. XF11

country-classic theme goes for a casual and rustic ambiance that’s part industrial part rustic villa. The kitchen’s focus is all about sustainability, ethical eating and local produce with down-to-earth home cooking and a ‘market’ menu that changes frequently. Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. Open daily 6-10pm. www.quincebangkok.com ZC5

THE LOCAL ­— Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef and co-owner Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find traditional recipes. They’re all served in a beautiful hundred-year-old house. There are cooking lessons every Wednesday, too. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm ZA3

cosy Scandinavian-style place is part organicgrocers and part cafe-cum-restuarant. Sample the best produce sourced from local farmers in dishes like the club sandwich and risotto with spicy sausage. 235/5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, Open Tue-Sun 7am-8pm, 02-662-2510. ZB4 offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a charming house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes to reflect the seasons. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-2602962. Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pm-midnight. ZD5

BACCO — Italian. $$$ This relaxed, slightly rustic eatery packs in the diners nightly, thanks to its extensive menu of authentic regional specialities. 35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-662-4538. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pmmidnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-midnight. ZC6

Y PICK INDUS — ­ Indian. $$$ An ambient spot

with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual north Indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:3010:30pm. ZE5

Y PICK MAYA ­— Indian. $$$ Housed in a striking cantilevered structure on the roof of the Holiday Inn this venue offers a choice of classic North indian dishes, an outdoor lounge and a DJ bar. Holiday Inn Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-683-4704. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 6pm-1am. ZC4

L’APPART — ­ French. $$$-$$$$ Imagine a grand Parisian apartment, which means parquet floors, rich burgundy wallpaper and lots of marble. The food is French cuisine with Thai touches. There’s also a full bar but a particular focus on Champagne cocktails. 32/F Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 13 and 15), 02-126-9999. Open daily 5pm-midnight. www.sofitel.com ZB2 SMITH — International. $$$$ Set in a former furniture warehouse, it’s decked out in an elegant industrial theme, with walls lined with butcher’s tools. Chef Peter Pitakwong’s menu focuses on two things: locally-sourced ingredients and nose-to-tail cooking. 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-0515. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. ZC5

THONGLOR/EKKAMAI SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN — Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of well-executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect and the small venue is often packed. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-midnight. ZC6

Y PICK SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM— Thai.

$$ Sat in a three-story shophouse, this Thai restaurant offers a cozy yet chic décor. The menu is based on what the owner’s grandmom used to cook—Thai food that borrows both from her hometown of Trat, and where the family now lives, Khon Kaen. Expect authentic and often rare dishes. 160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (between Thonglor Soi 6 and 8). Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm. ZC6

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DINING LITTLE BEAST—International. $$-$$$ Owned by a group of best friends who met in New York, this stylish gastro bar serves French and New American cuisine. Enjoy the popular 15-hour lamb shoulder and creative cocktails in a 1920s-inspired space. 44/9-10, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2670. Open TueSun 5:30pm-1am. ZB5

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Y SPOTLIGHT

Y PICK OPPOSITE MESS HALL — International.

$$$ Chef Jess Barnes draws on both Mediterranean and Asian influences and focuses on local produce. The fuss-free nature of the place means dishes are often best-eaten with your fingers and enjoyed with the homemade cocktails. Check out Oppositebangkok.com for special evenings and pop-up dinners. 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-6626330. Open Tue-Sun 7pm-midnight. ZC5

Y PICK PASTE — Thai. $$$ Run by chef couple

Bongkoch Satongun and Jason Bailey, who take their inspiration from Thai royal cuisine. Everything here is homemade from locally-sourced ingredients completed with inventive techniques and artful presentation. 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-3924313. www.pastebangkok.com Open Wed-Sun noon-2:30pm, Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. ZA5

PHUKET TOWN — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches. Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. ZC6

Rock Restaurant and Bar

Opened late last year, this new Asian restaurant is an exciting and relatively rare new addition to the Bangkok dining scene. The menu was designed by Chef Nhoi Ouypornchaisakul, who holds a degree in culinary arts from Johnson & Wales University in Colorado, USA. New face Chef Baimohn Tanataveetram runs the kitchen on a day-to-day basis serving up dishes with flavors inspired by places such as Myanmar, India and China, as well as Thailand, with signatures including kanom bueng poo (wafers with crabmeat and cream cheese), rangrai gaeng poo (pandan noodles with Southern crab curry) and toddy palm butter cake. 7/1 Paholyothin Soi 9 (accessible from Soi Ari 4 Fang Nuea), 082-688-8200. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight.

WATER LIBRARY — International. $$$$ A restaurant that serves a maximum of ten diners per night, with a 12-course set menu using the best ingredients prepared in front of you by an army of chefs. It’s very sophisticated, very sexy and while quite expensive is very memorable. There’s also a neighboring wine bar. Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, 02714-9292/-3. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am. ZB6

RIVERSIDE CHON — Thai. $$$$ Set in a beautiful Thai teak house overlooking the Chao Phraya River, Chon (“spoon” in Thai) is making a name for itself thanks to its authentic Thai food. The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., Dusit, 02-206-6999. Free shuttle boat from Central Pier. www.thesiamhotel.com THE DECK — Thai/International. $$$ Book in advance for one of the best spots, out on the second floor terrace, and enjoy the view of Wat Arun. The menu covers Thai and European dishes. 36-38 Soi Pratu Nokyung, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158. Open MonThu 7am-10pm, Fri-Sun 7am-11pm. WP23 STEVE CAFÉ & CUISINE — ­ Thai. $$ Located next to Thewet pier, Steve’s offers river views, a charming vibrantly-colored 60-year old wooden house, and authentic Southern dishes. 68 Soi Sri Ayuthaya 21 (Wat Devarajkoonchon), Sri Ayuthaya Rd., 02281-0915. www.stevecafeandcuisine.com. Open 11:30am-11pm. SALA RATTANAKOSIN — Thai/Western. $$$ This stylish riverside venue is where to indulge in Western and Thai creations and to feast your eyes on the view of the Temple of Dawn. Soi Ta Tien, Maharat Rd., 02-622-1388. www.salarattanakosin.com. Open daily 7am-10pm. Tha Tien Pier. WP23

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ART+ ATTRACTIONS ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY — On top of its prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-684-1527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20 BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTRE (BACC) — The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd., Pathumwan, 02214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th YM16 H GALLERY — Set in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions representing emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201, Sathorn Soi 12, 081-310-4428. BTS Surasak. Open WedMon 10am-6pm. www.hgallerybkk.com XH11 SILOM GALLERIA — This large mall hosts a range of modern Asian art under one roof. Highlight galleries include: Tang Contemporary Art, which covers modern Chinese art, and Thavibu Gallery, which features works by Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-2665454. The mall is open daily 10am-8pm, though some galleries have different opening times. XI10 SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — Both a shop and a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai artworks. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040. Open daily 9am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www. sombatpermpoongallery.com YL21 THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC) — Home to a large art library, and host to temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-6648488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www.tcdc.or.th ZC4 NATIONAL GALLERY — Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd., 02-281-2224, 02-282-2639-40. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www.nationalgallery.go.th WQ27 ROOFTOP GALLERY — With galleries in LA and New York, Hossein Farmani brings his passion for photography to the rooftop of the Design International School on Thonglor. 4/F, 440/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 090910-8373. Open Wed-Fri 12pm-7pm. ZA6 WHITESPACE GALLERY — This gallery, curated by talented contemporary Thai artist Maitree Siriboon, is a platform for young emerging artists with more of an experimental, avantgarde leaning. Sala Daeng Soi 1, 02-2352500. Open Wed-Sun noon-6pm. MRT Lumphini. XF12

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes. 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-2815360/1. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. WS27

Y PERFORMANCES

V64 — More than 60 artists from Chatuchak Weekend Market teamed up to transform a three-acre space into a large art center, which features studios, a gallery, an art academy, shop and restaurant. 143/19 Chaengwattana Soi 1 Yak 6, Bhangkhen. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.v64artstudio.com

PLAY HOUSE THEATRE CABARET

MUSEUMS

PLAYHOUSE THEATRE CABARET

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses brought here from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. www.jimthompsonhouse.com YM15

Conveniently located at the Asia Hotel, with direct access to BTS Ratchathewi station, Playhouse offers an entertaining live show starring some of Bangkok’s most glamorous performers. The transgender cabaret covers everything from contemporary dance and ballet to tap dancing and international musical hits. There are two shows daily at 8:15-9:30pm and 9:45-11pm. Tickets are B1,200, which includes a complimentary drink in the theatre, dinner packages at B1,800.www.playhousethailand.com or call 02-215-0571.

NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most impressive architecture, art and antiques in the country. Na Phrathat Rd., 02-215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. B50. www.nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th WQ27 MUSEUM SIAM — This completely restored colonial-style building is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-2252777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. B300. www. museumsiam.com WQ23

THE LEGEND LIVES Asiatique (2194 Charoenkrung Soi 76, 02108-4488), the popular riverside mall, just launched an exciting new stage show. The fresh action comes at The Stage, in the form of a fast-paced muay Thai live show, The Legend Lives, on stage at 8pm daily. Created and directed by Ekachai Uekrongtham, the artistic director of Action Theatre in Singapore, the stage show features more than just Thai kick boxing with plenty of swashbuckling action and a sprinkling of romance. Tickets are B1,200-2,000 for adults and B500 for kids. www.muaythailive.net or www.thaiticketmajor.com

SIAM NIRAMITR

MUSEUM SIAM

SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household features eight Thai-style houses that showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period along with prehistoric relics from Baan Chiang. Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-246-1775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www.suanpakkad.com

CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS WAT ARUN (TEMPLE OF DAWN) — Sat on the river’s edge, the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmerstyle tower) is decorated with millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arunamarin Rd. Wat Arun Pier. WP22

Located close to the Thailand Cultural Centre on Tian Ruammitr Road, Siam Niramitr is a spectacular celebration of the best of art, religion and culture from around the Kingdom. The 80-minute show is a visual feast that includes dazzling state-of-the-art effects, stunning costumes and over 150 performers. There’s also a restaurant and replica village on site. Showtime 8pm, doors open 5:30pm. Free shuttle bus from MRT Thailand Cultural Centre Station, exit 1 at 6pm. Tickets from B1,500. www.siamniramit.com

GRAND PALACE AND WAT PHRA KAEO (TEMPLE OF THE EMERALD BUDDHA) — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace is Wat Phra Kaeo, home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. Also, don’t miss the exquisite mural wall paintings found on the compound walls. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am3:30pm. Free English tours at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm. B400. Tha Chang Pier. WQ25

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ART+ ATTRACTIONS WAT PHO — Famous as both the home of the 46-meter-long reclining Buddha and as a center of traditional Thai massage, it can even offer courses to learn for yourself. 2 Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon. 02-225-4771. Open daily 8am-6pm. www.watpomassage. com. Tha Thien Pier WQ24

ATTRACTIONS

KIDS

SIAM OCEAN WORLD — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. Highlights include the underwater tunnel, penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour. Basement, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-687-2000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am10pm. B900 for adults, B700 for children.

FUNARIUM — This giant indoor soft play area provides painting, crafts, bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas, ensuring there’s plenty for the kids to do. 111/1 Sukhumvit 26, 02-665-6555. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 8:30am-8:30pm. B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults for three hours. Socks required. www.funarium.co.th

YM17

WAT PHO

WAT TRAIMIT WITTAYARAM — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the informative Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm.

MADAME TUSSAUDS — The famous wax work museum has made it to Bangkok and features a star-studded line up of incredibly life-like movie stars, politicians and sportsmen drawn from all over the world. 6/F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama I Rd., 02-658-0060. Open daily 10am-9pm. Tickets B800 adults, B600 children over 5. BTS Siam. YM16 FLOW HOUSE — If you’re missing the beach, then why not go surfing in the middle of the city? That’s what Flow House offers, thanks to a special machine which gives a similar experience to riding a real wave. It also features bars, restaurants and retail shops specializing in water sports gear. Lessons are available for novices and prices cover board hire, use of showers and towels. Sukhumvit Soi 26. Open Sun-Thu 8am-11pm; Fri-Sat 8am-midnight. Prices from B550 per hour. www.flowhousebangkok.com

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KIDZOONA —Actually split into two main sections, Molly’s Gateway is a big arcade, while Kidzoona offers a large space for children to explore. As well as giant inflatables and a big ball pit, there is the chance for children to dress up as builders, firemen, chefs and more in Papertown. 5/F, Gateway Mall Ekkamai, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-108-2650/-52. Open daily from 10am-9pm. B180-B330 for kids and B90 for adults. Socks required. BTS Ekkamai. ZD7 PLAYTIME — Located on the third floor of upscale mall Parklane, the main room is dominated by a large play-gym area. There’s also a separate space for under threes, a sandpit, ice skating rink, climbing wall, electric car track and more. Upstairs offers a cafeteria. 3-4/F, Parklane Ekkamai, opposite Ekkamai Soi 2, 02-382-0077. Open Mon-Thu 9am-6pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 9am-7:30pm. B210-350 for kids and B110 for adults. Socks required. www.playtime. co.th ZC7

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NIGHTLIFE 50/50

Gambling might be illegal in Thailand but this new bar/restaurant looks to embrace a casino theme, with its hideaway location and its opulent décor that mixes soaring ceilings, quilted sofas and props like playing cards amid dim lighting. You can even try your luck against the owner Nattapol “Nick” Pavapaiboon, who has worked at Bellagio in Las Vegas to win a free drink or other perks. Offering a café by day and a pub-dining concept at night, 50/50 looks to spread its bets, serving up interesting cocktails like Queen of Heart (rum, Cointreau, lime and cherry) and Holy-Chip (rum, Grey Goose pure, fresh fruit) and an extensive menu of Western and Asian fusion dishes. 998 H1 Place, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor Soi 20), 080-581-5050. Open daily 11am –midnight.

DOWNTOWN BANGKOK BETTY — The latest themed bar by nightlife guru Ashley Sutton has a back story that conjures up 1940s America, mixing pin-up girls and shiny chrome bombs of all sizes including a weapon of mass destruction that hangs in the middle of the space and is straddled by a real-life 50s pin-up girl. G/F, Holiday Inn, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-663-4223, open daily 6pm-1am. ZC4

Y HYDE & SEEK — Elevated pub grub, one of

Bangkok’s best cocktail menus and a décor that conjures up Victorian drawing room style and NYC sophistication. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-168-5152-3. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. YM21

HORIZONS — The final element of “Heaven,” a complex of restaurants that crowns the Zen Department Store, Horizons is a new tapas bar which combines fusion cuisine, stunning views and great cocktails influenced by molecular techniques. 19/F, Zen Department Store, Rama 1 Rd., 02-101-0900. www.horizonsbangkok.com. Open daily 5pm-1am. YL18 KU DE TA­— Opening its doors in December on the top two floors of Sathorn Square building, the new hip hangout has three restaurants, seven themed bars and two clubs. Offering extraordinary views in a sophisticated setting, the KU Bar has an intriguing cocktail list with offers like Hurricane Lychee (gin, lychee, fizzy egg whites, sugar and soda) and Asian Boulevardier (Wild Turkey bourbon, Campari, handmade Asian spiced tonic). 39-40/F, Sathorn Square Building, 98 North Sathorn Road, Silom, 02-108-2005, www.kudeta. com XH12

Y MAGGIE CHOO’S — Quirky styling and surreal

LEVELS — Decked out with a huge LED chandelier above a circular bar and a bunch of monochrome sofas surrounding a sizeable dance floor, this cavernous venue aims for a rather swanky audiovisual clubbing experience. 6/F Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246. Open daily 9pm-3am. www.levelsclub.com ZA1

Y PICK SCARLETT — Perched on Pullman Bangkok

NEST — Nest offers a perfect blend of sexy sophistication and chill out chic. Lay back on their super comfy daybeds while you enjoy the open air clubby vibe. Rooftop of LeFenix Hotel, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255-0638/9. Open daily 4pm-2am. www.nestbangkok.com. ZA1

concepts like busts of Queen Victoria and a noodel shop facade help portray the story of a post-war Chinese lady, Maggie Choo, who opened a secret “speakeasy” bar in an old trading post’s bank vault. 320 Silom Rd., next to Novotel Fenix Silom, 02635-6055. BTS Surasak. XJ10

Hotel G’s top floor, this popular spot features an al fresco terrace with fantastic views, an extensive and affordable wine list, industrial bistro décor and interesting tapas options. 37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd, 02-238-1991. BTS Chong Nonsi. XH10

PARK SOCIETY — For a real breath of fresh air and a park view, head up to the top floor of this trendy hotel. Inside is fine dining while the rooftop is all about potent cocktails, lounge tunes and a great view. 29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. Open daily 5pm-1am. XF2 POTION BAR — The perfect place for those who like a drink while browsing, Potion Bar puts its main focus on furniture and creative, Thai-influenced cocktails. The furniture showroom offers cocktails made with a base of Thai liquors (e.g. Sangsom and Mae Khong) that have been home-infused with local herbs and fruit like pandanus and pomegranate. The Green Connect building, 235/10 Sukhumvit Soi 31 (Soi Sawasdee) 091868-9974. Showroom open daily 10am onwards. Bar open daily 6pm-midnight. ZB4

SUKHUMVIT SOI 11 APOTEKA — As the name suggests, this bar features a 19th century apothecary-inspired décor. The theme influences the cocktail list (called “antidotes”) where you’ll find drinks with names like Penicilin and Mr. Hyde. 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 090-626-7655. Open Mon-Thu 5pm-1am; FriSat 5pm-2am; Sun 3pm-midnight. BTS Nana. ZA1

Q BAR­— The Soi 11 institution continues to deliver a heady mix of bass lines and international DJs downstairs but their 2nd floor, with a large outdoor patio, means it’s also a great spot to chill out with friends. In the back, Le Derriere serves up absinthe and oysters amidst a 1900s French decor. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274 BTS Nana. Open daily 8pm-1am. ZA1

THONGLOR/EKKAMAI BADMOTEL — This formerly abandoned three-story building has been repainted all in white and offers a glasshouse style ground floor, a sizable courtyard and a low-key rooftop. They regularly play host to special events, which means it’s usually full of Bangkok’s painfully hip. Next to J-Avenue, Thonglor Soi 55, between Soi 15 and 17, 02-7127288. Open daily 5pm-1am. ZA6

Y PICK IRON FAIRIES — Like no other bar in

Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies. A great live band makes this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-8875. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. ZB6

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NIGHTLIFE

Y CRAFT BEERS

Where to enjoy imported brews

HOBS RAINHILL

MYST — Set on the rooftop of Grass on Thonglor Soi 12 overlooking the bustling street, Myst serves Thai and Italian food but the real draw is the impressive selection of creative cocktails like Myst’s signature Marshmallow (Svedka Vodka strawberry, Kahlau and Bailey’s Irish Cream) or, if you are here with a group, why not share a huge bowl of sangria served with strawberry jello. Rooftop of Grass Thonglor 12, Sukhumvit 55 Rd, Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am, 080-770-9800. ZB6 MELLOW — Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, affluent locals, attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with its beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and delicious cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. ZA6 OCTAVE — This multi-level rooftop bar and restaurant offers a stylish modern-industrial décor that is accentuated by great views over Sukhumvit from the top deck. The food menu is focused on Asian-themed bar snacks and features intriguing nibbles like prawn yakitori with chili tomato sauce. 45/F, Marriott Bangkok Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000. Open daily 6pm-1am. ZC6

SWAY URBAN EATERY

Beer, Brews and Ciders G/F, Seen Space, Thonglor Soi 13 02-1852366. www.brewbkk.com. Open daily 4pm-2am

WINE REPUBLIC — They take their vino seriously here, with a wall of bottles and informed staff to talk you through your purchase. The dark spit-and-sawdust interior and breezy outdoor terrace get very busy on weekends. Thonglor Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7599. Open daily 5:30pm-1am. ZB6

Y

Y PICK WTF — A collaboration between an art

curator, a hip hotelier and a photojournalist, WTF is actually a hybrid bar and exhibition space that’s popular with Bangkok’s creative expats and local hipsters. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. www.wtfbangkok. com ZC5

TUBA — This bar seems to have been around forever but the crowds keep coming thanks to the quirky surroundings, from a lifesized Superman to a giant Incredible Hulk, the retro furniture, which is all for sale, the fiery Thai food and the great cocktails, best enjoyed during their daily 2-for-1 happy hour from 5-8pm. Room 11-12 A, 34 Ekkamai Soi 21, 02-711-5500. Open daily 11-1am.

RIVERSIDE VIVA & AVIV — Fitting for its riverside location, this venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nautically-inspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive, well-made cocktails and bistro-style food. River City, 23 Yota Rd., 02-639-6305. Open daily 11am-midnight. www.vivaaviv.com

Y PICK BABBLE + RUM — This riverside

restaurant and bar is clad in a modern Frenchcafé decor, finished with dark woods and leather couches. An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make for a chill night out. 1-2/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Arthit Rd., 02-633-5000. Open daily 6:30am-1am. www.rivasurya.com WQ27

One of the real pioneers behind the growing appreciation for beers other than local brews Chang and Singha, this venue remains popular in no short part to the huge variety of labels they offer, which includes over a hundred different beers and ciders from all over the world. The setting is pretty amenable, too, with the option to spill out of the small bar into a communal (and usually busy) courtyard, which it shares with a number of other popular bars and restaurants.

Sway Urban Eatery Thonglor 10, Arena 10, 02-711-6052; 6pm2am. www.facebook.com/swaybkk A relative newcomer, having only opened in December last year, the most exciting thing about this bar has to be the self-pour draught wall. The concept’s simple, you’ll be given a card to swipe on the wall then just pour from the choice of craft beers like Anderson Valley’s Wild Turkey Bourbon Barrel Aged Stout, Heelch O’ Hops Imperial IPA and Rogue Ale’s Hazelnut Brown Nectar. The brick and steel interior is pretty industrial but it lets you focus on the choice of beers and the long list of different chicken wing options.

HOBs Rainhill Sukhumvit 47, 02-260-7447, rainhill47.com Just one of a number of bars in this chain (the name stands for House of Beers), we particularly like the venue at Rainhill community mall because of its railway waiting room decor and the big balcony overlooking the skytrain and Sukhumvit Road. It has a good range of beers, with a particular leaning towards Belgian tipples from the likes of St. Bernardus and Chapeau, as well as craft beers such as the popular BrewDog from Scotland.

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SHOPS+SERVICES DOWNTOWN AMARIN PLAZA — ­ The mall’s Greco-Roman façade actually hides some unexpected gems. ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs. 496-502 Phloenchit Rd., 02-650-4704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com YM18 CENTRALWORLD — ­ This massive shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000-sqmeters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap, Coach and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites like Boudoir, Kloset and Vickteerat. Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www.centralworld.co.th YM18

CTW

CENTRAL CHIDLOM ­— The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrods, Central Chidlom first opened in 1973 and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Ralph Lauren, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the impressive food hall on the ground floor and the views from the international food court, up on the seventh. 1027 Phloenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th YM19 ERAWAN BANGKOK ­— This mini-mall might look petite, but its three floors offer some high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including Comme des Garçons, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Lanvin and Alexander Wang. 494 Phloenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com YM18

GAYSORN — ­ Thailand’s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Céline) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Phloenchit Rd., 02-656-1149. BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com YM18 MBK CENTER ­— Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and at bargain prices. As a result,­the chaotic MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good quality. Still, it’s a lot of fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www.mbk-center.co.th YM16

PLATINUM FASHION MALL ­— Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashion-related from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even a single item is very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. www. platinumfashionmall.com YK18 SIAM CENTER — ­ One of the city’s most iconic malls reopened at the start of this year after a major renovation and offers new inspirational spaces for art and design, befitting its traditional reputation at the vanguard of the local fashion scene. The highlight is the Fashion Visionary space on the third floor, home to the flagship stores of top Thai designers like Something Boudoir, Theatre, Flynow III and multi-Thai-label store The Selected. There’s a good food court, too. Rama 1 Rd., 02-6581000. BTS Siam. www.siamcenter.co.th YM16 SIAM PARAGON — ­ With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like H&M and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a cinema. As well as lots of restaurants, there’s also a food court in the basement. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www. siamparagon.co.th YM17

SIAM DISCOVERY — ­ The sister mall of Siam Center celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul in 2011, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamdiscovery. co.th YM16

SUKHUMVIT THE EMPORIUM — ­ Set in the heart of an upscale residential area, The Emporium offers luxury shopping, thanks to its tenant portfolio, brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dior and Celine, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal and Jim Thompson. There are also lots of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative & Design Center on the top floor. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www. emporiumthailand.com ZC4 TERMINAL 21 — ­ Boasting an airport terminalcum-international destinations theme, the nine floors let you stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the upper floors offer intriguing boutiques by Thai designers. There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21.co.th ZB3

ELSEWHERE RIVER CITY­— Situated right on the river, the third and fourth floors of this mall are packed with boutique stores selling the very best in Thai and South East Asian art, antiques and artefacts. Once you’re done shopping you can also take advantage of the collection of bars and restaurants on the ground floor, which offer great river views out on the terrace. Open daily 10am-10pm. Yotha Rd., 02-237-0077. www. therivercity.com. Free ferry from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Thaksin). XJ11

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SHOPS+SERVICES

CHATUCHAK MARKET

CHATUCHAK MARKET — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is a vast weekend market. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products each section offers. You can literally spend days amid the warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 10-24 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-decor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-5pm.

ASIATIQUE — This evenings-only shopping center on the banks of the Chao Phraya River is themed according to the city’s old architecture. Divided into sections, ranging from the waterfront to a 100-year old refurbished sawmill, it includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashions and intriguing souvenirs, plus offers a variety of eateries and wine bars. Asiatique is also home to a large ferris wheel, Calypso Cabaret, Joe Louis puppet theater and the dramatic new show Muay Thai Live. Free ferry from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin). 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488. Open daily 4pm-midnight. OP PLACE ­— Situated in a beautiful neoclassical-style building close to the river, this luxury mall oozes charm from the sweeping wooden staircase to the antique lift. It’s home to a host of high-end boutiques offering unique and rare antiques and artifacts from across Southeast Asia, handcrafted jewelry, bespoke tailors and fine art. 30/1 Charoenkrung Soi 38, 02-2660186. Open daily 10:30am-7pm. XJ11

Y

Y SPOTLIGHT

The Train Market Following it’s forced relocation around six months ago, the popular “Talad Rotfai” or train market has now found its feet at its new location on Srinakarin Road behind the Seacon Square Shopping Mall. Featuring a large number of vintage shops, cool bars with live music and food stalls in a retro setting, the massive weekend night market is packed with character and a particular hit with shoppers looking to find retro items. The lines of products here are extensive, ranging from imported vintage European furniture and pinball machines to old telephones, clothes and motorbikes. The vibe is casual, with lots of laidback spots to eat and drink al fresco. The market is open on Wednesday, and Friday to Sunday from about 5pm to midnight. The best way to get there is to get the BTS to Udomsuk Station and then get a taxi. www.facebook.com/taradrodfi

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Y

BANGKOK

HEALTH + WELLNESS Water Relief

The RarinJinda Wellness Spa, with branches in Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Phuket, offers a variety of treatments ranging from traditional Thai massage to aromatherapy and hydrotherapy. However, we recommend the slightly unusual 60-minute Splashy Vichy Massage (B2,345), which sees your whole body massaged by warm jets of water from a series of showerheads. Imported from Australia, the Vichy shower system uses various water temperatures and different pressures to effectively stimulate blood circulation and metabolism. While laying on a cushioned wet table, you will also be massaged by a therapist with nourishing exfoliation products to promote radiant and healthy skin. Facilities at the Bangkok branch include an indoor heated hydrotherapy pool, Vichy shower, hydrotherapy tub, whirlpool with chromo therapy, rainforest steam and sauna. For details of Chiang Mai and Phuket locations, visit www.rarinjinda.com. 8/F, Grande Centre Point Hotel Rajdamri, 153/2 Soi Mahatlek Luang 1, Ratchadamri Rd., 02670-5599, 02-670-5000 ext. 4441 YN19

SPA Y PICK AWAY SPA — Beds glow softly in your

choice of green, red, purple or pink, while the dim, labyrinthine halls induce an almost meditative mood. Treatments range from a onehour aroma massage and detox to a four-hand mineral scrub and oil massage. Finally, the Style Lab offers mani, pedi and grooming services. 6/F, W Bangkok, North Sathorn Rd., 02-3444000 ext. 4160. BTS Chong Nonsi. www. wbangkok.com XH12

BHAWA SPA

Y PICK BHAWA SPA — This new spa blends

contemporary design, traditional touches and a holistic range of treatments from a precious stones detox to mind rejuvenation workshops. 83/27 Witthayu Soi 1, Wireless Rd. 02-2527988. Open daily 10am-11pm. www.bhawaspa. com YN20

BODY TUNE — The “menu” here is short, sweet and to the point: foot reflexology, hand, Thai and oil massage. But what they do, they do well. We prefer the quieter Silom branch. Silom: 56 Yada Bldg., 2/F, Silom Rd., 02-238-4377. BTS Sala Daeng. Sukhumvit: 49 Sahai Place Bldg., Sukhumvit 24, 02-661-0077. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-midnight. www.bodytune. co.th XG10 DEVERANA SPA — The impressive white lobby has an almost heavenly quality, while the 14 individual spa rooms are little sanctuaries to enjoy a range of treatments covering everything from milk baths to body scrubs. Dusit Thani, 946 Rama IV Rd., 02-636-3596. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.deveranaspa.com XF10 DIVANA VIRTUE SPA — Tucked down a small soi close to the bustle of Silom, Divana Virtue Spa is authentic yet homely. Situated in a century-old house, decked out in a traditional Rama V style, it sits among a small yet lush garden to create a very private and calming atmosphere. 120 North Sathorn Rd., 02-637-8883. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 9am-11pm. XG13 ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is the brand’s first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the Arabian sauna in the Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.stregis.com/bangkok YN18

HEALTH LAND — Health Land has built its sizeable reputation on a blend of affordable prices, expert masseuses and select surroundings. Lots of branches throughout town also helps. 120 North Sathorn Rd. , 02-637-8883. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 9am-11pm. More branches: www.healthlandspa.com XH12 I SPA — One of Bangkok’s newest spa sanctuaries, the treatments offered here are based on therapies from China, India, Japan and Thailand, using five choices of essential oils based on Asian flowers and herbs. 9/F, The Landmark Bangkok, 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-252-9444. BTS Nana. www.ispathailand.com ZC1

Y PICK I.SAWAN — With its Tony Chi design

and its classy residential cottages and treatment bungalows, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a full fitness club. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am-11pm. www.bangkok.grand. hyatt.com YN18

LET’S RELAX — With branches around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-6626935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www. letsrelaxspa.com ZB3

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BANGKOK

HEALTH + WELLNESS LE SPA WITH L’OCCITANE — Thailand’s first Le Spa with L’Occitane boasts a modernThai style combined with elegant French touches. Treatments include the Golden Siamese Massage and Four Teas Ceremony. 9/F, Sofitel Bangkok, 189 Sukhumvit Rd., between Soi 1315, 02-126-9999. BTS Nana. ZB2 MULBERRY SPA — Set in a 60s-style residential compound, Mulberry Spa offers the usual selection of treatments amid a classy-yet-cozy ambiance. 132 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1888. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am-11pm. Silom branch: www.mulberryspa.com ZB3

Y PICK PANPURI ORGANIC SPA — Hidden

behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of this luxury spa. Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1199. Open daily 10am-8pm. www. panpuri.com YM18

SOOK SABAI HEALTH MASSAGE — Conveniently located, the French-Indochinese vintage-inspired spa offers a variety of treatments ranging from traditional Thai massage to Balinese treatments. Open daily 10am – 10.30pm. 3-4/F YJA Building, Rama 4 Road. 02-637-5575. www.sooksabaispa.com

TRIA — Tria is not just a spa: this sanctuary hidden behind Piyavate Hospital is a rejuvenation center offering integrated programs. With over 50 treatment rooms, there are also hydrotherapy pools, a restaurant and residences for long-term treatments. 998 Ronkhlongsamsen Rd., 02-6602602. Open Mon-Fri 7-10am. Closes Sat 9pm, Sun 8:30pm. www.triaintegrativewellness.com URBAN RETREAT — Urban Retreat’s various branches offer relaxing havens from the city in the middle of town. 31/10 Soi Phromjai, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-204-2008/9. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.urbanretreatspa.net ZA4

SPA BOTANICA — Surrounded by the lush gardens of the Sukothai Hotel, Spa Botanica is an urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best of oriental massage options. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd, 02-2344-8900. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.sukhothai.com XG13

YUNOMORI ONSEN & SPA — Bangkok’s first authentic onsen (hot spring bath house) features water sourced from a hot spring in Ranong, in Southern Thailand. As with traditional onsens in Japan bathing is done in the nude, though there are separate baths for men and women. B450 for all-day onsen, and B350 for Thai massage. A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-259-5778. Open daily 10:30-12am.

Y PICK SIX SENSES SPA — This famous hotel

chain’s newest spa sports plenty of wood, for that natural connection, but more importantly, boasts stunning views of Bangkok. Treatments are tailored following a consultation with a spa director and cover aesthetic and therapeutic options. 30/F, Two Pacific Place, 142 Sukhumvit Rd. 02-6532450. BTS Nana. www.sixsenses.com ZB1

YUNOMORI ONSEN $ SPA

AESTHETIC CLINICS APEX SKIN CENTER — If you’re trying to solve some skin issues, check out this well established and popular skin center for state-of-the-art treatments from Botox to micro-dermabrasion. 3/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-644-8613/-4. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-9pm. More branches: www.apexskincenter.com ZC6

S MEDICAL SPA — Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, the award-winning spa creates real beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs. 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Rd., 02-253-1010. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.smedspa.com YL20 SPA@TONSON — This resort style spa includes nine treatment rooms and utilizes ancient Asian healing techniques through a range of treatments. The highlight has to be the special 4-hand massage. 5F, Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-658-7980. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-9pm. www.spatonson.com YN20

Y

SIX SENSES SPA

THE ORIENTAL SPA — The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. XJ9 THANN SANCTUARY SPA — Their treatments use locally-made spa products and are offered within a tranquil space. 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.thann.info YM18

ASTER SPRING — This international chain of skin care and health spas combines German techniques and products to provide effective facial and body treatments. The philosophy here is no-frills and no-nonsense, just good skin products that offer real results. L/F, Gaysorn, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-656-1421/2. BTS Chidlom. Open daily 10am-9pm. YM18 PUTTHARAKSA — From non-invasive face lifts to the derma roller regeneration treatment, their aesthetic care is all about helping your body heal itself. Get further support through their anti-aging treatments. 1535 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-6336. BTS Phrakhanong. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-9pm, Sun noon- 6pm. www.puttharaksaclinic.com

WHERE SPECIAL | Wellness

Sook Sabai Health Massage

Sook Sabai Health Massage is an oasis in the modern jungle that takes you back to the golden era of China’s Qin dynasty and its indulgent palaces. Lounge in a couch, recover from the heat and your busy lifestyle with a refreshing drink, and choose to enjoy one of our treatments. Our skillful therapists promise to deliver the best indulgence for your utmost relaxation. Get to enjoy the Sook Sabai experience everyday, from 10:00am – 10:30pm. Sook Sabai Health Massage, 23/13-14 YJA Building 3rd Floor, Soi Saladaeng 1, Silom Rd., Bangrak, Bangkok. For reservations, call 02-637-5575. Email : info@sooksabaispa.com. www.sooksabaispa.com

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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

30 W H E R E T H A I L AND I F EBRUA RY 2 0 1 4

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BANGKOK

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GET MOVING the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically-challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.

Z Dining

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Soi Sukhumvit 55 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 55

used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (klong) still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or

1. Apex C6 2. Chillax Spa B4 3. Dermaster A7 4. I SPA Landmark C1 5. Oasis Spa C5 6. Le Spa B2 7. Let’s Relax B3 8. Mulberry Spa B3 9. S Sense Spa C7 10. Six Senses Spa B1 11. The Face D7 12. Urban Retreat A4

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Health & Wellness

25. Supanniga Eating Room C6 26. The Local A3 27. Water Library B6 28. Xuan Mai A6 29. Cellar 11 A1

Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 34

AIRPORT LINK—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (tenminute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 one-way and B150 roundtrip for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.


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10

11 Lumpini Park ÊǹÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

TO NATIONAL STADIUM STATION

Si Lom ÊÕÅÁ

Chulalongkorn Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒŨؿÒŧ¡Ã³

12 ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Rama 4 Rd.

2

7

¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4

10

2

Sala Daeng

Jim Thompson

Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§

ÈÒÅÒá´§

Silom Soi 2

5 6

8

2 Silom Complex

Thaniya Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ

Soi Convent «Í¤͹áǹµ

G

9

6

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ

9

¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

Si Lom Rd.

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

Silom Soi 4

1

Chong Nonsi ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ

4

àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

1

STATIO

N

J

X

6

1. Blue Elephant I13 2. Chef Man I13 3. D’Sens F10 4. Eat Me G11 5. Le Du G11 P 6. Le Normandie J9 7. Nahm G13 8. Rice&Chili I13 Memorial Bridge 9. Ruen Urai G8Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊоҹ¾Ø·¸ 10. Somtum Der F11

8 1 Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

2

St. Louis Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅૹµ ËÅØÂÊ

2

Surasak ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ 1

1. Cloud 47 G10 2. DJ Station F9 Ratchawong Pier De Ta H12 Q 3. Ku ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤ 4. Maggie Choo’s J10 5. Park Society F12 6. Scarlett H10 7. Theatre Bar I12 8. Woo Bar H12

ÊоҹµÒ¡ÊÔ¹

9 OP Place

Oriental Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕ¹àµÅ

8

23

Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS—25These fast and 24

X

frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a Wat Arun Tha Tien Piergreat way to get a different perspective on Tha the·‹Phrachan city,Pier ÍÃس 7. SookÇÑ´Sabai F11 Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã ·‹ÒàµÕ¹ as well as a good option for getting to many of the 8. Spa Botanica G13 9. The Oriental Spa J9 temples and palaces built along the river. The main 3 Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Shopping 6 1 Taksin with boats heading upstream from here 1. Jim Thompson F8 2. OP Place J9 and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from 9 B15 to B42 depend1 Art & Attractions 1 ing on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket 1. Artery Post-Modern Wat Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ Wat Po 2 Gallery I11 ÇѴ⾸Ô์ (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and 2. Art In Effect F12 comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading 3. 338 OIDA F14 tourist attractions accessible from the river. From 4. H Gallery H11 Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free fer5. Kathmandu Photo Gallery I11 Wat Rajapardit ries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique. ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃдÔÉ°

6. Serindia Gallery J9 7. Silom Galleria: CVN/Number 1 Gallery/Thavibu/Tang Gallery I10 8. White Space GalHealth & Wellness lery F12 1. Away Spa H12 2. Body Tune G10 R 3. Devarana Spa F10 4. Divana Virtue IndiaËŒEmporium Ò§ÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ The Old Siam Plaza ÍÔ¹à´Õ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ Spa I12 ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ 5. Health Land H12 China World ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´ B 6. So SPA F12 urap a

32 W H E R E T H A I L AND I F EBRUA RY 2 0 1 4 S

Saphan Taksin

TO BANG WA STATION

22

Nightlife

Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡Ãا

6

Dining

TO BEARING STATION

7 8

City Viva

4

21

µ

7

Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢

I

Chit

4

Pan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹

Soi Silom 19 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 7

3

6

1

5

Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ 5

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

rminal ÁÑÂ

EARIN G

8 3

6

Ekkamai

TO B

8

Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์

H

10 11

4

5

TO BANG SUE STATION

3

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ã㵌

F

3

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ãà˹×Í

3

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

4

SILOM14

13

Lumphini

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND—The

BTS skytrain Wat stops at Bangkok’s main districts and Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·Ñȹ gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom Line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two Rd. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are ¶¹lines. ¹ºÙþ Ò B130.

2

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an 26 27 28 extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) on Wang the Lang outskirts of Chinatown, down through the Pier âç¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇѧËÅѧ » ÂÁËÒÃÒª¡ÒÃس main Central Business District6 before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asok—MRT 4 Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng—MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. 1

Tickets can be bought3 for individual journeys, 5 Phra Athit Pier or you can get special one-day tourist passes or ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍҷԵ tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For Chana Songkram more information,Watgo to www.bts.co.th and www. ÇÑ´ª¹Ðʧ¤ÃÒÁ bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems. Police Station ʶҹյÓÃǨ

TAXIS—In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes Democracy try toMonument negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the ͹ØÊÒÇÃÕ »ÃЪҸԻäµÂ metered price. 5

Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

7

Wat Saket ÇÑ´ÊÃÐࡵØ

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7

8

9

Chamchuri Square ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

3

10

ÊÕÅÁ

Chulalongkorn Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒŨؿÒŧ¡Ã³

12

2 F

7

3

¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4

10

2

Sala Daeng

Jim Thompson

Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§

ÈÒÅÒá´§

Silom Soi 2

5 6

8

2 Silom Complex

Thaniya Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ

Si Lom Rd.

H

Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑ TO B

STATIO

N

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

erminal ¡ÁÑÂ

EARIN G

3

Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢

I

4

6 6

9 OP Place

NAVIGATE

8

22

ally from 8:30am to 3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡Ãا malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

23

8

24

Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃس

7

Nightlife

W

Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã

1. Babble & Rum Q27

TO BANG WA STATION

25

2 Tha Phrachan Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã

Tha Tien Pier ·‹ÒàµÕ¹

6 1

Y

4. National Museum Q27 5. Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall S26 6. Royal Barge Museum P27 7. The Queen’s Gallery S27 8. Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) P22 Saphan Taksin 9. Wat PhraÊоҹµÒ¡ÊÔ Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald ¹ Buddha) Q25 10. Wat Po Q24

Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ BANKING HOURS— Banking hours are gener-

ATMS—ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside of 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

Oriental Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕ¹àµÅ

J

21

BANGKOK

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ã㵌

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

6

TO BANG SUE STATION

3

HOSPITALS­—Bumrungrad International, make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over (Sukhumvit Soi 1-3, 02-667-1000, emergency 4 1 5 the “VAT REFUND from stores displaying FOR 02-667-2999), Bangkok Hospital (Soi Soonvijai, TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of Petchaburi Rd., 02-310-3000), BNH Hospital the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase (Convent Rd., 02-686-2700), Samitivej Sukhumvit the item present your passport and ask the sales (Sukhumvit 49, 02-711-8181), Siriraj SiPH (PhranNarathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์ assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund nok Rd., 1474). Application for Tourists form, attaching the original Chong Nonsi tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and 8 ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ 1Dining before you check-in, present your goods and3 the 1. Eat Sight Story P23 4 City Viva 5 refund form to customs officers to get your form 2. Supatra Riverside P26 6 3. Sala Rattanakosin P23 stamped. After check-in and immigration, proceed 4. Seven SpoonsSt. Louis T27 Hospital to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. âç¾ÂÒºÒÅૹµ ËÅØÂÊ 5. Sheepshank Q27 Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ Refund amounts under B30,000, will be made in 6. The Deck P23 5 4 cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to 2 Pan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹ Art & Attractions your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000, 1 1.7 Grand Palace/Museum of Textiles Q25 Surasak will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit ÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ Q23 2.8 Museum ÊØSiam Soi Silom 19 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 1 card account. 3. National Gallery Q27 7

getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo 9 opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a G price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Soi Convent «Í¤͹áǹµ VAT REFUNDS­—Visitors to Thailand who ¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

TUK-TUKS—Tuk-tuks are a noisy but of Silomfun Soi way 4

10 11

14

ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ãà˹×Í

3

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

4

13

Lumphini

Rama 4 Rd.

9

RATTANAKOSIN28

26

27

Wang Lang Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇѧËÅѧ

Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) âç¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª » ÂÁËÒÃÒª¡ÒÃسÂ

6

3

P 1

1 Memorial Bridge Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊоҹ¾Ø·¸

2

9

4

Wat Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ

Wat Po ÇѴ⾸Ô์

1 3

2

6

Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤

µ

5

Phra Athit Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹Ðʧ¤ÃÒÁ

Wat Rajapardit ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃдÔÉ°

Q

Chit

Wat Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·Ñȹ

Police Station ʶҹյÓÃǨ

TO BEARING STATION

8 2

1

R

Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

3

11 Lumpini Park ÊǹÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

TO NATIONAL STADIUM STATION

Si Lom

India Emporium ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ÍÔ¹à´Õ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ

The Old Siam Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´

Democracy Monument

Bura

pa R

͹ØÊÒÇÃÕ »ÃЪҸԻäµÂ

d. ¶¹

¹ºÙþ

Ò

5

Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

S

7

Wat Saket ÇÑ´ÊÃÐࡵØ

T

W

4

FEBRUARY 2014 I W HER E THA ILA N D 33

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3

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

Soi Sukhumvit 38

Soi Sukhumvit 40 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

ÊǹÊÒ¸ÒóàºÞ¨¡ÔµµÔ

E

Soi

Queen Sirikit National Convention Center Èٹ »ÃЪØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Benchakitti Park

8

Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢Ø

NAVIGATE

Soi Sukhumvit 26 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

BANGKOK

Soi Sukhumvit 24 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁ

Y

Soi

Soi Sukhum

D

ʶҹբ¹Ê‹§àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

I

J

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

TO MO CHIT STATION

15

16

17

18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ

19

SIAM21

20

Ratchathewi Platinum Mall á¾ÅµµÔ¹ÑÁ ÁÍÅÅ

11

6

11 1

L 4 2

Siam Discovery ÊÂÒÁ´ÔʤѿàÇÍÃÕ่

Siam Center ÊÂÒÁà«็¹àµÍÃ

Central World à«็¹·ÃÑÅàÇÔà Ŵ

5 Siam Paragon ÊÂÒÁ¾ÒÃҡ͹

2,6,11 9

Wat Patum Wanaram ÇÑ´»·ØÁǹÒÃÒÁ

8

1

ZEN à«็¹

Gaysorn ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒà¡ÉÃ

Chit Lom ªÔ´ÅÁ

P

Memorial Brid ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊо

9

2

Phloen Chit

Central Chidlom ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à«็¹·ÃÑŪԴÅÁ

à¾ÅÔ¹¨Ôµ

¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 1

3

Digital Gateway ´Ô¨ÔµÍÅà¡็µàÇÂ

Royal Thai Police Êӹѡ§Ò¹µÓÃǨáË‹§ªÒµÔ

General Police Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒŵÓÃǨ

Amarin Plaza Erawan Bangkok ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒÍÑÁÃÔ¹·Ã ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒàÍÃÒÇѹ

5

4

7

Y

O

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS Emergency Services (Fire Brigade, Police) 191 Airport Rail Link 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th Bangkok Taxi Call Center 1681 / 1661 Bangkok Mass Transit System (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th BTS Tourist Information Center : 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th

Henri Dunant Rd. ¶¹¹ ÍѧÃÕ´Ù¹Ñǵ

N

Phaya Thai Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÞÒä·

10 12

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

3

4

8

10

Ratchadamri

3

2

1

Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ

ÊÂÒÁ

MBK ÁÒºØÞ¤Ãͧ

Soi Tonson «Í µŒ¹Ê¹

M

TO BEARING STATION

Siam Soi Lang Suan «Í ËÅѧÊǹ

ʹÒÁ¡ÕÌÒáË‹§ªÒµÔ

Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤

Q

Rama 1 Rd.

National Stadium

6

2

7

1

R

Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

3

Chit Lom Rd. ¶¹¹ªÔ´ÅÁ

Ratchadamri Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

K

Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ

Pantip Plaza ¾Ñ¹·Ô¾Â ¾ÅÒ«‹Ò

Soi Som Khit «ÍÂÊÁ¤Ô´

ÃÒªà·ÇÕ

ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

S 5

Sarasin Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒÃÊÔ¹

T

TO BANG WA

Bangkok Metro (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6ammidnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th Chao Phraya Express Boat Call Center 02-6236001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com Suvanbhumi International Airport 1722/02-1321888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) – 1672. www.tourismthailand.org Tourist Police 24-hour call center 1155

Y Dining

1. Bawarchi M18 2. Le Beaulieu N21 3. Elements M20 4. Erawan Tea Room N18 5. Gaggan O19 6. Jim Thompson Restaurant & Bar L15 7. Kisara/Reflexions N21 8. La Monita Taqueria M21 9. Shintori/Ying Yang/ Zense/Horizons M18 10. Shintaro N18 11. Sra Bua L17 12. Zuma N18

Nightlife

1. Hyde & Seek M21 2. The Speakeasy N19 3. The St Regis Bar N18

Health & Wellness 1. Aveda M17 2. Aster Spring M18 3. Bhawa N21 4. Elemis Spa N18 5. i.Sawan N18 6. Panpuri Spa M18 7. Rarinjinda N19 8. Romrawin M19 9. S Medical Spa L20

10. Spa@Tonson N20 11. Thann Sanctuary Spa M18

Shopping

1. Amarin Plaza M18 2. Central Chidlom M19 3. CentralWorld M18 4. Erawan Bangkok M18 5. Gaysorn M18 6. MBK Center M16 7. Pantip Plaza K17 8. Platinum Mall K18 9. Siam Center/Siam Discovery M16 10. Siam Paragon M17 11. ZEN L18

Art & Attractions

1. 100 Tonson Gallery N20 2. Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) M16 3. Jim Thompson Art Center & House L1 5 4. Madame Tussauds M16 5. Siam Ocean World M17 6. Sombat Permpoon Gallery L21

34 W H E R E T H A I L AND I F EBRUA RY 2 0 1 4

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Y

21 THINGS WE LOVE about Thailand

1

!0 1 Sitting back with a cocktail in hand overlooking the Gulf of Thailand as the sun goes down at the Horizon Bar at the Hilton Pattaya Hotel, Pattaya (www.3hilton.com). 2 Cycling past the 3/4 size models of Thailand’s major cultural and religious sites in a whistle stop tour of the Kingdom at The Ancient City (www.muangboran.com) on the outskirts of Bangkok.

5

!5 6 Snorkeling in the crystal clear waters off the beaches of the Andaman Island of Koh Tachai. 7 Getting a fun and interactive lesson on Thainess at the Museum of Siam (www.museumsiam.com). 8 Sampling authentic Thai dishes served up by Bo and Dylan at one of Bangkok’s leading Thai restaurants, Bo.Lan (www.bolan.co.th).

!7 !2 Enjoying the view of downtown

!7 Rummaging for everything from

Bangkok while sipping a cocktail at Octave, the rooftop bar at the Marriott on Sukhumvit Soi 57 (BTS Thong Lo, www.marriott.com).

edgy fashion to teakwood furniture at the world’s largest weekend market, Chatuchak (JJ) Market (MRT Kamphaeng Phet).

!3 Admiring the work of established

!8 Strolling down Phuket Town’s heritage trail and experiencing the unique Baba-Nyonya architecture.

and emerging Thai and international artists at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BTS National Stadium, www.bacc.or.th).

!4 Watching the awe-inspiring sight 3 Wandering through the UNESCO World Heritage site at Sukothai, Thailand’s former capital city and home to numerous ancient temples. 4 Browsing for luxury fashion brands at the countless boutiques and highend malls of Ratchaprasong Avenue (BTS Siam).

5 Camping out under the stars before making an early morning trek to see the sunrise at the top of Phu Kradueang in Loei (042-871222/458, www.dnp.go.th).

9 Checking into one of the spa cottages for a full day of pampering and treatments at the beautifully appointed I.Sawan Residential Spa & Club (http://tinyurl.com/ktc7cry) at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok. !0 Indulging in the decadent delights served up at Water Library in Thonglor (www.mywaterlibrary.com), a 12-course set menu that’s only open to eight people a night and uses the very best global ingredients.

!1 Spending a very unique evening out in the Gulf of Thailand fishing for squid off the coast of Hua Hin.

7

of thousands of bats stream out of their cave to go hunting for the night at the beautiful Khao Yai National Park in Nakhon Ratchasima province.

!5 Sipping a warm cup of coffee while looking out over the mist at Moncham, the lush hilltop plateau situated within the Nong Hoi Royal Project near Chiang Mai.

!6 Searching for the elusive whale sharks at Richelieu Rock, a famed diving spot located close to the Surin Islands, a two-hour boat ride from Khao Lak.

!9 Playing 18 holes on the challenging but beautiful championship-level golf course at the Black Mountain Golf Club (www.blackmountainhuahin. com) in Hua Hin.

@0 Learning how to cook Thai food from old-school recipes at the beautiful Blue Elephant Cooking School (www.blueelephant.com).

@1 Experiencing the natural beauty of the Andaman Sea, kayaking through the mangrove forests, caves and blue lagoons off the coast of Krabi province. Try www.seacanoe.net who offer a wide range of tours.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

FEBRUARY 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 35

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