Where® Thailand August 2016

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AUGUST 2016 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

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WWW.WHE R E T H A I L A N D.C O M

BEACH ESCAPES The hottest spots on the islands

Bangkok’s best nightlife neighborhoods

LES CLEFS D’OR THAIL AND

Touring the Old Town

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CONTENTS where

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l THAILAND l AUGUST 2016

The Guide BANGKOK

24 NIGHTLIFE Make a stop at these award-winning bars to try some of the best cocktails in Southeast Asia.

25 DINING

BEACH BOUND Discover the coolest bars, restaurants and beach clubs in Phuket, Samui and Krabi.

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Book a seat at these extraordinary Asian cuisine meccas, or discover Bangkok's best street food.

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28 SHOPS+SERVICES Plan the perfect shopping spree in the city's many luxury malls that also feature some cool local finds.

29 HEALTH+WELLNESS Take the weight off your feet and enjoy some Thai-style pampering at these beautiful spas.

NIGHTLIFE

14 PERFECT NIGHTS OUT

30 ATTRACTIONS

Hop from bar to bar with this guide to Bangkok's hippest nightlife districts.

See Bangkok from a different perspective with these intrepid city tours.

AROUND THAILAND

31 ART

16 TRAVEL NEWS

This month's must-visit exhibitions and galleries.

All the latest openings and travel news from around the Kingdom.

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32 NAVIGATE

EXPLORING

Essential tips on getting around.

20 OLD TOWN Walk your way around Bangkok's Old Town, otherwise known as Rattanakosin Island, with this tour of the temples, restaurants and bars not to miss.

ALSO INSIDE 4

HOT DATES

34 21 THINGS WE LOVE Where Thailand is proud to be an associated publication of the Thailand Chapter of Les Clefs d'Or (the International Concierge Association).

Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon

Art Director Dith Chang

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Deputy Art Director Panita Thiraphapong

MVP | EXECUTIVE President Donna W. Kessler Vice President, Operations Angela E. Allen Chief Travel Editor Geoff Kohl General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Where Designer Wariya Whangwaewklang

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon

Contributors Lily Kittisrikangwan, Natcha Saguankiattichai, Bonnie Sananvatananont

Features Associate Monruedee Jansuttipan

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

Marketing Executive Plaifon Chienvichai

Account Manager Suda Angsuputiphant

Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo

On the Cover Baba Nest at Sripanwa

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Vice President, National Sales Rick Mollineaux Director of Partnerships & National Digital Sales Bridget Cody National Sales Coordinator David Gately

MVP | MANUFACTURING & TECHNOLOGY Director of Manufacturing Donald Horton

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@ Morris.Com

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, Room A, 100 North Sathorn Rd. Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

www.wherethailand.com

@where_thailand

Morris Comunications Chairman William S. Morris III President & Ceo William S. Morris IV Production Director of Production Kris Miller

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Senior Regional Editorial Director Margaret Martin Design Director Jane Frey

Photography Director Susan Strayer Creative Coordinator Beverly Mandelblatt E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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HOT DATES

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AUG 9

BREAK TIME Big-time French producer and DJ Breakbot brings his danceable electro and disco house tunes to the stage for one night in Bangkok. He’ll be joined by local rock band Polycat as well as a host of local DJs from the Wav Collective label. Tickets available at Ticketmelon. Muangthai GMM Live House, Central World, 02-101-6881. BTS Siam

AUG 4

AUG 12

AUG 12-21

AUG 13-14

The star of America’s Iron Chef TV program and the founder of Philadelphia’s celebrated Morimoto restaurant, Masaharu Morimoto, drops by Bangkok for one-night only to launch Morimoto Bangkok in the city’s already-iconic luxury Mahanakhon skyscraper. The chef will showcase his signature dishes along with new creations made with local ingredients. Make your reservation on the number below.

Charlie Puth, the American singersongwriter behind “One Call Away” and “See You Again,” makes his Bangkok debut as part of the Soundbox concert series, with support from opening acts Ozmo and Room 39. Tickets are B2,000, available at Thaiticketmajor.com

Good news for book-lovers as Big Bad Wolf Book Sale, the self-described biggest book sale in the world, is coming to Thailand for the first time. Expect discounts of 60-80 percent on English books from a huge variety of publishers around the world, with organizers claiming there will be over 2 million fiction and non-fiction books across all categories. It will run for 60 hours nonstop between Aug 19-21, leaving no excuse for both late-night readers and early birds to stop by.

Get a taste of locally grown organic products at K Village Farmers’ Market, a monthly outdoor market set at an outdoor Bangkok mall. On offer you’ll find plenty of delicacies ready to eat right there on the spot, along with the odd kids’ activity and workshop.

IRON GIANT

GOOD-TIME CHARLIE

Muangthai GMM Livehouse, CentralWorld, 02-101-6881. BTS Siam

4/F MahaNakhon Cube, Narathiwas Rd., 02-234-1434. BTS Chong Nonsi

BOOKED OUT

FARM FRESH

K Village, 95 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02- 258-9919

Impact Arena Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd., 02-833-5252.

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AROUND THAILAND

BABA NEST

BEACH BOUND

The hottest spots to eat and drink on the islands.

PHUKET Thanks to tropical backdrops, powdery sands and beautiful oceans, the island is still Thailand’s number-one beach destination. But along with the picture-postcard beach setting, you’ll also find historic Sino-Portugese roots reflected in architecture and cuisine, alongside a booming nightlife scene in Phuket Town itself.

PHUKET TOWN RESTAURANTS For a downtown cultural dining experience, head to the world-famous Blue Elephant (96 Krabi Rd., Phuket), which sits in a renovated Sino-Portuguese mansion and serves some of the best Royal Thai cuisine on the island in undoubtedly the grandest setting. Nearby, you’ll find a more local and homey option with equally delicious food at Chom Chan (64/169 Moo 5 Kamala Beach, Kathu, Phuket), a restaurant that has transformed a 60-year-old house into a contemporary restaurant with a spacious garden and relaxing water fountains. The menu features traditional Phuket food like

crabmeat yellow curry with rice vermicelli and prawns in tamarind sauce, as well as its own original dishes including somtam Phuket (papaya salad with shrimp paste). For something a little different, check out Mee Ton Poe (214/7 Phuket Rd., Phuket Town, 076-216-293), arguably the best place to get a taste of the city’s Chinese ancestry. Phuket Town’s most-famous Hokkien noodle stall, its steaming bowls come served with seafood, fish balls, pak choi and fresh eggs. Like the locals, have it with a side of chicken satay straight from the grill.

MEE TON POE

BLUE ELEPHANT

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BARS & CLUBS

BEACHSIDE HOTSPOTS

Party with a picturesque sunset scene at Sri Panwa resort’s Baba Nest (88 Sakdidej Rd. 076-371-000). The venue sits on a 4,000-sq-meter deck on top of the entire resort, and is hugged by a 360-degree infinity pool so that nothing blocks the panoramic view of Phang Nga Bay. For something more down to earth, head over to Crafts & Co. (91 Yaowarat Rd. 096-4049722), where despite the Sino-Portugese shop-house setting, the beer bar brings a modern feeling with its glass-house entrance, dangling tropical plants and sleek wooden bar. You’ll find more than 80 different craft beers from over 20 brands, plus a Western-led food menu. Meanwhile, those looking to grab a dose of live music should head over to the sister branch of Bangkok’s famous jazz bar, Saxophone Pub & Restaurant (Seahorses Circle, Chana Charoen Rd., 092-636-4519).

Forget lying by the beach with nothing to do. The island is filled to the brim with beach clubs, built for vacationers to comfortably relax and unwind with a drink in hand and cool tunes. If you’re on Kata Beach, stop by Re Ka Ta (Boathouse by Montara, Kata Beach. 076-330-015) which sports a modern-tropical atmosphere and features a swimming pool, lounge, beachfront cocktail bar, holistic spa, restaurant and boutique. For something a little more exclusive, head to Skye Beach Club (65/23-24 Nai Yang Beach Rd. 093-582-7700) on the recentlybooming Nai Yang Beach which offers a sleek semi-alfresco beachside lounge that plays host to a daily line-up of electronic DJs. On Bangtao Beach, Xana Beach Club (10 Moo 4 Srisoonthorn Rd. 076-324-101) features a 35-meter swim-up bar, spacious sofas, day-beds and cabanas.

SAXOPHONE PUB & RESTAURANT

BLUE ELEPHANT

XANA BEACH CLUB

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KRABI RESTAURANTS For some of the best views in Krabi, book a table at The Hilltop Restaurant (99 Moo 3, Ao Nang, 075-637-195.), a spacious and sleekly designed restaurant above Ao Nang and Noppharat Thara beaches with plenty of alfresco dining space. The menu covers a solid selection of Thai favorites with a focus on seafood. Request a table on the grassy area away from the main building for the best views. Another great option for Thai dining is Ruen Mai (117 Moo 3, Kribi Rd., Kao Thong, Tambon Sang Thai, 089288-3232.). Set in an open-air bamboo structure with soaring conical ceilings, rustic décor, traditional tiles and private dining salas, it makes for one of the most romantic settings in the province for Thai dining.

JUICE BOX

DEEP CAFE N’ BAR

THE HILLTOP RESTAURANT

LUXX

SILOM +662 635 8800 reservations@staywithluxx.com LANGSUAN +662 684 1111 reservationsxl@staywithluxx.com

www.staywithluxx.com

stay with LUXX in bangkok

BARS For more health-focused travelers, check out Juice Box at Dusit Thani Krabi Beach Resort, which has recently sexed up its beachfront with a health-centric juice bar which sits right on the sand and offers snacks as well as cocktails. For stiif drinks in a down-to-earth setting, check out Deep Café N’ Bar (Sribharami Soi 1, Krabi Town), which may well be the town’s first truly hip drinking establishment. Set in a renovated old shop-house, the venue carries an artsy, cozy charm with some colorful hippie murals and live bands performing standard lounge jazz. The potent cocktails focus on Thai ingredients, with highlights including the Mo-Ra-Kot (Sangsom Midori, sweet basil, lemon grass and lime) and Ayothaya (Mekhong shaken with kaffir lime leaves, Indian red onion, white turmeric, lemongrass and lime).

LUXXhotel

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ADVERTORIAL

Fabulous Sunday Bubbly Brunch at UNO MAS Discover one of Bangkok’s most decadent Sunday brunches with incredible city views at the sky-high UNO MAS Spanish restaurant.

Perched on the 54th floor of the five-star Centara Grand at CentralWorld, UNO MAS Spanish tapas bar and restaurant serves up one of the most unique brunches in Bangkok—all in the heart of the city’s shopping hub. On the first Sunday of every month, the Fabulous Sunday Bubbly Brunch features not just decadent brunch favorites from Maine lobster and Fine de Claire oysters to seared foie gras, but also an array of premium Spanish delicacies unrivaled in Bangkok—all served up with free-flow G.H. Mumm Champagne along with a list of other tantalizing cocktails and Spanish wines. The Raw Bar—or Marisqueria —is Nirvana for any seafood lover. Lobsters, king crab, a selection of caviar and three kinds of premium oysters all sit alongside one of UNO MAS’ specialties: fresh ceviche—raw seafood prepared in a fiery Peruvian-style dressing, be it lobster, scallop, tuna or salmon.

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For a true taste of Spain, head to the Tapas Bar, where delicacies like Spanish omelet, sobrassada (a richly spiced, cured Balearic island sausage) and, of course, premium chorizo share space with more fanciful creations like the foie gras Oreo cookies— delicious bursts of rich foie gras flavor sandwiched between sweet black cookie dough. Looking for the Iberico ham? Don’t worry, that’ll come served straight to your table, and not just any Iberico ham but 36-month-cured Jamon Joselito—regarded as the finest in the world. But the really exciting stuff happens out on the Josper charcoal oven, where the chef roasts up Cochinillo suckling pig the Spanish way: halved down the middle, perfectly salted and permeated with the flavor of fresh rosemary, as well as deliciously marbled tomahawk steak cooked to juicy-in-thecenter, charred-on-the-outside perfection. Every guest can also order at their leisure from a choice of eight a la carte mains. Take

your pick between freshly grilled seafood from the Mediterranean and Atlantic seas or the finest red meats like Pyrenees lamb rack, charcoal-grilled tenderloin and “Secreto Iberico” pork—delicious! It’s here that you’ll also find one of UNO MAS’ star dishes: the “Arroz Negro” black ink paella with tiger prawns and clams. UNO MAS’ casual blend of bamboo ceilings, rustic sofas and warm palette of orange, yellow and marine makes a wonderfully relaxed space to enjoy such a feast, especially thanks to the Sunday addition of live Spanish music courtesy of their talented guitarist.

The Fabulous Sunday Bubbly Brunch takes place on the first Sunday of every month, from 11:30am-2:30pm, priced at only B3,555++/person including premium beverage package. 54/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 02-100-6255. diningcgcw@chr.co.th. BTS Chit Lom/Siam

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SAMUI The wet season may have started, but the islands in the Gulf of Thailand like Koh Samui are at their peak, with minimal rainfall and longer days. Known for sleek beach clubs, high-end resorts and visiting international DJs, Koh Samui has a sophisticated party scene that gets better every year. Here are some of the hottest happenings and destinations not to miss out on during your trip down south.

CONCIERGE PICKS What Southern dish do you recommend all foreigners to try?

EVENTFUL NIGHTS OUT

DRINK GALLERY

LUXE DINNER AND DRINKS For some inventive Japanese cuisine in a chic spot, visit Namu (4 Bontiji Moo 4, Bophut. 077-915-999), the flagship restaurant at W Retreat Koh Samui. Here you’ll find zesty, creative and artistically crafted dishes such as hamachi (amberjack) sashimi with leek and Mexican chili mint dressing and Maine lobster, stir-fried udon noodles and chili. While you’re there, stop by the hotel’s Woobar (4/1 Moo 1 Tamboi Maenam. 077-915-999), located on arguably the most beautiful spot on the island to lounge around for some afterdinner drinks. For something more classic, take a seat at the Four Seasons’ hillside Koh Bar (219 Moo 5, Angthong. 077-243-000), a restaurant specializing in locally sources Southern Thai flavors and wine by the glass with a view of the lush palm-covered landscape leading down to the sea. Silavadee Resort’s Sun Moon Star (208/66 Moo 4, Maret. 092-279-4936) sits in an equally dramatic setting with three different themes: Sun offers panoramic deck-side views, Moon is an allday international dining restaurant while Star promises a romantic rooftop bar and sunken tables in a swimming pool.

A late, music-fueled night on Koh Samui usually means heading to Chaweng Beach, the island’s party hub. If you’re not staying in the area, we recommend getting there early to relax and enjoy a couple of drinks with the sunset. Warm up at Drink Gallery (14/1 Moo 2, Chaweng. 077422-767), a happening bar located in the hip Library boutique hotel, right by the beach. The cute bar is decked out in pop art motifs, chandeliers and raw-wood furniture, and specializes in wine, cocktails and chill tunes. Another pre-game venue worth checking out is Cha Cha Moon (Soi Green Mango, Chaweng Beach. 077300- 222), a sexy beach club offering daybeds, a rustic-meets-tropical vibe and international DJs spinning EDM. Later, head over to Ark Bar (159/89 Chaweng Beach. 077-961-333), where the loud electronic music and full Party-inspired atmosphere mean the party stays strong until the early hours of the night. Also stop by Solo Bar (166/5 Moo 2 Chaweng Beach. 084-8986328), where you’ll find equally loud music and an even wilder crowd before ending the night at Green Mango (Soi Green Mango, Chaweng Beach), arguably the most well-known club on the island, which spins pop and EDM tunes from a tree-house-like structure.

Wanut Tohlee from Renaissance Koh Samui Personally, I would recommend goong pad sator (stir-fried shrimp with sator beans) because all the ingredients are locally sourced, including shrimp from the Gulf of Thailand and sator beans— an essential Southern ingredient.

Penprapa Thongthep from JW Marriott Phuket Anyone who comes to Phuket must try nam prik goong siap (shrimp chili paste) and thom kati puk liang (coconut soup with Melinjo leaves). The two are served alongside each other with a selection of fresh vegetables and rice. Do be warned that they’re quite spicy, even for Thais!

ARK BAR

Krich Komkrit, Sri Panwa Phuket I recommend moo hong, a stewed pork belly dish served with rice, which is very famous in Phuket. The taste is relatively mild as far as Southern food goes, so foreigners often enjoy it. CHA CHA MOON

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NIGHTLIFE

PERFECT NIGHTS IN BANGKOK

THONGLOR The crowd: Young, Thai and single

Check out these three itineraries for the perfect Bangkok night out—from pre-dinner drinks to letting your hair down in the club.

UNCLE

Arguably the trendiest street for Bangkok’s young professionals, Thonglor is always a safe choice for an eventful night out at places with character. We recommend starting at Iron Fairies (404 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-8875), a Dickensian factory with crumbling brick walls and a scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make miniature metal fairies. Drop in for some pre-dinner drinks before taking a five-minute walk to Supanniga Eating Room (160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7508), where you’ll find an authentic Thai kitchen which follows the recipes of the owner’s grandmother. Expect a mix of flavor-packed regional dishes like the must-order moo cha muang (pork with Guttiferae tree leaves) and the nam prik kai poo (chili dip with crab eggs). After dinner, grab a taxi down the road to UNCLE (72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55), a moody cocktail bar that sits on top of a chic development of restaurants and nightlife spots. Set up with slouchy leather sofas, its specialty is classic cocktails with a twist served for a fraction of the price of the bars who look even half this stylish. Round off the night by heading downstairs where, in the same complex, you’ll also find Beam (72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55)—a minimal, warehousestyle nightclub that pumps out energetic deep house and techno tracks. Rooftop Option: Octave A multi-level rooftop bar promising striking 360-degree views from the top floor of the Marriott Sukhumvit Hotel. The food focuses on Asian-themed bar snacks. 45/F, Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57. BTS Thonglor. 02-797-0000. Open daily 5pm-2am

BEAM

IRON FAIRIES

SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

OCTAVE

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UPPER SUKHUMVIT The crowd: NGOs and hipsters From multi-purpose art spaces to restaurants serving gua bao and bars spinning dancehall

SING SING

ABOVE ELEVEN

vinyl, these streets are a hipster’s paradise. Start your evening on the fancier end of the scale at Yoichi Nikka (6/11 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-4270), a solemnly toned and moodily lit Japanese bar that takes its whiskey very seriously. Do try the Takesuru 17 Years Old, named the World’s Best Blended Malt Whisky at the World Whiskies Awards 2014, or the Taketsuru set, consisting of 12-year, 17-year and 21-year whiskey, all served with a handcrafted ice ball. Once you’ve got your appetite going, jump in a cab, and head to Baa Ga Din (26 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-3813), one of the most creative Thai kitchens in town, known for putting a modern twist to roadside specialties like chicken wings and oyster omelets. Later, get down with some retro Thai rhythms at Studio Lam (Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661), the super-hip bar owned

by DJ Maft Sai, a local record label owner who specializes in ’70s Thai funk and country tunes, before heading to nearby Sing Sing Theater (Sukhumvit Soi 45, 063-225-1331). This den of Chinoisserie chic styling, flamboyant stage shows and private drinking nooks is one of the most creative clubs Bangkok has ever seen. The petite dance floor acts as a hub for a network of mezzanines, sunken bars and a warren of secret passages leading to single-table balconies and speakeasy-style backrooms. Rooftop option: Above Eleven This bar and restaurant doesn’t just have great views of the city going for it; there’s also an adventurous menu of Japanese-Peruvian fusion (aka Nikkei) cuisine like acebichado rolls (sea bass, ika karage, avocado). Book ahead to get the best city-view seats and order up some of the delicious pisco sours. 33/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am

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NIGHTLIFE

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SMALLS

PARK SOCIETY

SILOM-SATHORN The crowd: Local and international young professionals and gay partiers.

VESPER

LE CAFE DES STAGIAIRES

THE FRESHEST OF SEAFOOD UNDER THE STARS AT BLUE SKY Everybody knows that only the freshest and finest seafood can be served raw, and at Blue Sky’s new raw bar, the oysters and lobster dishes on offer are just that. Come and sample imported Hamachi Japanese fish and oyster tartare, Tsarskaya oysters, live whole Boston lobsters and our fabulously decadent oyster and champagne soup—plus many more top-notch seafood specialties. 18.00 – 22.30 hrs.

Begin your night with a barrel-aged cocktail at Vesper (10/15 Convent Rd., 02-235-2777), a bar and restaurant popular for its modern takes on potent, mid-century drinks, as well as refined, Spanish and Italian bar snacks. For dinner, be sure to book ahead to get a table at Eat Me (1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, 02-238-0931), which ranked 25th in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants last year. Chef Tim Butler’s kitchen pulls off bold combinations like Alaskan scallops with avocado, yuzu and pancetta, while a simple chicken salad is elevated to new heights by the addition of red papaya, toasted coconut and betel leaf. Nearby, you’ll find Le Cafe des Stagiaires (142/21 Sathorn Soi 12, 081-2073077), a three-story shop-house named after the French phrase for a place where young interns drink. Try classics like Moscow mule, caipirinha and negroni, as well as the signature “French pour” Ricard. To get the party started, hop into a cab and head to Smalls (186/3 Suanphlu Soi 1, 095-585-1398), where you’ll find a cocktail lounge that marries crumbly shophouse appeal with both statement design and contemporary artwork. A DJ plays downstairs, while up on the rooftop you can enjoy alfresco absinthe cocktails—the house specialty. Rooftop option: Park Society

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND RESERVATION T: 02 541 1234 EXT. 4151 | E: FB_OFFICE@CHR.CO.TH centarahotelsresorts.com/cglb

For a real breath of fresh air and a park view to boot, head up to the 29th floor of the super trendy Sofitel So. Inside is for fine dining on international cuisine, while out on the rooftop, it’s all about cocktails, lounge tunes and the striking view. 29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 Sathorn Rd., 02-6240000. Open daily 5pm-12:30am. MRT Lumphini

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+ where I FINDING BEAUTY

Ultimate Pampering

Five amazing ways Thailand can help you stay beautiful on your holiday.

At Thailand’s spa resorts and wellness centers, you’ll discover the ultimate in relaxation therapy. Around Thailand: Panviman Spa at Panviman Chiang Mai Spa Resort (053-879-540-5, www. panviman.com/chiangmai) offers a huge list of spa programs. The 350-minute Absolute Heaven treatment is an entire day of herbal steam infusions, body exfoliation, aroma floral baths, and body and facial massage. In Bangkok: Dii Divana Spa (02-160-5850-1, www.dii-divana.com) offers the simply wonderful, 300-minute Empress of the Sea, a B22,500 program which includes foot therapy, anti-aging treatment, detoxify aromatic steam, collagen repair, skin therapy, and even a Champagne anti-aging soak.

Find Inner Peace Thailand’s Buddhist faith make it the perfect destination to calm your mind and seek inner peace. Regain your strength of soul at these meditative sanctums.

KAMALAYA

PANVIMAN SPA

RE KA TA SURF SCHOOL

Break a Sweat

Hit the Surf

Nothing helps release stress like punching and kicking your way to a leaner body. Learning muay Thai—or Thai boxing—is becoming more and more popular with women looking for an energetic, functional workout. You’ll also find plenty of welcoming muay Thai schools across the country.

Perfect that bikini body while having fun at the same time. Thailand is an adrenaline junkie’s paradise, and here are some of our favorite ways to stay in shape while hitting the waves.

Around Thailand: Pattaya is like the country’s muay Thai capital. Fairtex Sport Club and Hotel (038-253-867, www.fairtexpattaya.com) offers the Refreshing Package at B6,900, for which two people will get a three-day-two-night stay that includes muay Thai training along with healthy food and cleansing juices (valid throughout Aug). In Bangkok: RSM Academy (02-185-2384, rsmacademy.com) offers a “Beautiful Boxer” package (B2,000 throughout Aug) specifically designed for women, which includes not just training but also tickets to see a championship muay Thai fight at Rajadamnern Stadium from the comfort of the Lady’s Lounge.

Around Thailand: Kata Beach on Phuket Island is long-established as the home of Thailand’s surf scene. Re Ka Ta Surf School’s (076-330-421, rekataphuket.com/surf.html) B1,000 private lesson includes one-on-one tuition and board rental. Staying the whole week? Sign up for the B8,000 intensive package for two hours of instruction, five days per week. In Bangkok: Flow House Bangkok (02-1085210, flowhousebangkok.com) is an urban surfer’s playground. Its FlowRider is a wave machine that lets you test your abilities at standup surfing and bodyboarding. Use of the wave machine is charged by the hour (from B650 for members and B750 for non-members) including equipment and instruction.

Around Thailand: Apsara Beachfront Resort & Villa (076-584-444, www.apsarakhaolak.com) in Khao Lak, Phang Nga province, right now offers the “1 Mindful Meditation” package, which consists of a five-night stay all about meditation, on top of accommodation in one of their elegant rooms from Aug 2-7, inclusive of one dinner, daily breakfast, four lunch-meals and roundtrip airport transfers from Phuket International Airport. In Bangkok: There are various meditation centers in the city, both at temples and through independent organizations. We recommend the meditation group at Omroom (02-655-6282, www.facebook.com/omroombangkok), who offer weekly meditation classes on Wednesday evening for a B200 donation.

Beach Hot Bod Get serious about that fitness regime with these amazing weight-loss programs, whether at a beautiful luxury resort or a high-tech urban gym. Around Thailand: Samui is a picture-perfect island destination for holistic weight-loss programs. At Kamalaya (077-429-800, www.kamalaya.com), the Ideal Weight program is structured to help achieve your optimal goals and long-term weight management. There are various programs and therapies along with personal training involved. Choose between the seven-, nine- or 14-night packages, starting from B115,153. In Bangkok: Try Energy Bootcamp’s (086-3339533, www.energybkk.com) Body Transformation program, which promises to help transform your body and eating habits in five weeks. The program starts at B5,000/person but if you can a couple of friends, it’ll cost B12,500 for the three of you.

Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) has designated August 2016 the "month for women travelers" as a way of marking Her Majesty Queen Sirikit’s birthday. To do so, TAT

has come up with a range of wonderful promotions geared towards female travelers. Visit womensjourney.tourismthailand.org and discover all these incredible promotions.

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where

AROUND THAILAND

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

PONGYANG ZIPLINE & JUNGLE COASTER

PHUKET SOUTHERN COMFORT For a taste of Phuket’s Southern delicacies, head to new-in-town restaurant Chom Chan, which comes from the team behind the island’s long-adored Raya Thai food restaurant. From a 60-year-old home and garden filled with Sino-Portuguese touches, Chom Chan serves Phuket specialties like crabmeat yellow curry with rice vermicelli and prawns in tamarind sauce, as well as some of their own creations like somtam Phuket (papaya salad with shrimp paste) and moo kong klua (deep-fried salted pork belly). 242/2 Yaowarat Road, Phuket Town, 076-605-954. Open 10am-10pm. www.fb.com/ChomchanPhuket

TRAVEL NEWS The latest openings and happenings from

SAMUI NEW PAGE

around the kingdom.

THE PAGE

CHIANG MAI ARTISTIC ENDEAVORS Thailand’s grandest art opening of the year, Maiiam Contemporary Art Museum sits in a converted warehouse in the historical craft district Sankhampaeng, and features some of the most important pieces of Thai contemporary artwork in the country. The 3,000-sq-meter space houses a mix of rotating and permanent exhibitions from the personal collections of Jean Michel Beurdeley and his late wife Patsri Bunnag, together with their son Eric Bunnag Booth—one of the country’s most prolific art-collecting families. Its opening exhibition was a retrospective on the renowned Thai director Apichatpong Weerasethakul, presenting the Chiang Mai-hailing artist’s career trajectory, which includes winning the Palme d’Or at Cannes. 122, Moo 7 Tonpao Chiang Mai, 081 386 6899. open daily 10am-6pm (except Tuesdays). www.maiiam.com

MAIIAM

ON A ROLL The newly-opened Pongyang Zipline & Jungle Coaster in Chiang Mai’s Mae Rim district has probably the best ride of any of Thailand’s zipline parks. The Jungle Coaster is a two-seater adrenaline rush powered by gravity that snakes around the canopy on steel rails. Also check out the Quick Jump, a bungee-jump-like service where visitors fall to the ground from heights of 14 meters. We recommend you get the round-up package, which combines a 12-station zipline tour plus a Jungle Coaster ride. 99/9 Moo 2, Pongyang, Maerim, 092-973-8868. Open daily 9am-5pm. pongyangadventure.com

Design-savvy travelers just can’t get enough of The Library hotel’s beach-chic lines and amazing sunset cocktails. So much so that the hotel has had to expand its restaurant, The Page. You’ll now find not just more seats perfectly poised for beach views, but also a list of 40 new dishes drawn from old Thai recipes. Go for the eight-course set menu to get a wellrounded hit of rare flavors like gaeng run Juan nue nong lai (beef stewed in shrimp paste soup), yum moo waan sai ponlamai priksod (sweet pork spicy salad ) and nam prik maprao kua naem nua kem (roasted coconut paste with salted beef)—a perfect introduction to island flavors in an unmatched location. 14/1 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach, 077-422-767. Open www.thelibrary.co.th

KANCHANABURI BARGE IN The Rice Barge Restaurant at Dheva Mantra floats on the River Kwai and serves up local specialties like pla khang (red tail catfish). It’s long been one of the nicest places near the city to have a riverside tete-a-tete with a bit of fine-dining polish. And it’s just been refurbished to even grander, Rama Vera luxe, complete with a Thai-style deck so you can eat while collapsed onto a triangular pillow. It also now has air-con and will stay open during monsoon downpours. Open for dinner only (6-11pm). 9/99 Moo 3 Tambon Thamakham Muang, 034-615999. Open daily 6-11pm. www.dhevamantra.com

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whereExploring AUGUST 2016 | BANGKOK

OLD TOWN The Rattanakosin area, commonly called the Old Town, is tucked inside a bend in the Chao Phraya River and encompasses some of the city’s most revered cultural landmarks. But beyond the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, there are also some excellent restaurants and beautiful riverside bars.

GRAND PALACE AND WAT PHRA KAEW

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 20 OLD TOWN

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We provide inside & outside massage service 24 hour 7 Days/week

What a great way to end a hectic day of travel, work or sightseeing ❀ Foot Massage & Foot Scrub

999 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Traditional Thai Massage

999 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Oil/Aromatherapy Oil Massage

999 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ 4 Hands Massage

1,499 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Thai Massage & Body Scrub

1,499 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Aromatherapy Oil & Body Scrub

1,499 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ 4 Hands Massage & Body Scrub

1,999 THB/ 2 Hrs

Call us to schedule your appointment at

Address: 6/9 Soi Phom Sri 1, Sukhumvit 39 Klongton-Nua, Wattana Bangkok 10110

Mobile. 082-111-2213, Tel. 02-662-6623.

www.baanthaitouch.com. Nearest BTS: Phom Phong Station

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EXPLORING

OLD TOWN Y SPOTLIGHT

Babble & Rum

NEW

1 RARB

Larb is a delicious Thai spicy meat salad that packs a sharp and powerful chili kick and is simply not to be missed. It’s also the specialty of this cool new spot on Phra Athit Road, which takes the simple, street-food staple and dishes it out in a hipster setting with no compromise in flavor. Owner Van Rohitratana is native to Isaan, the Northeastern region of Thailand where larb comes from, and is also behind the wildly popular Escapade burger bar right round the corner. The fun, compact space has a bit of a construction site feel—stickered and sprayed zinc roof sheets and bare, cracked concrete—and also features a very well-stocked bar.

The main restaurant (ground floor) and bar (second floor) of this welcoming riverside hotel next to Phra Arthit Pier are decorated like a contemporary French cafe, finished in dark woods, mirrors and leather-clad couches. An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make it the perfect spot for a chilled night out. The menu features Thai and inter-comfort food and plenty of cocktails. Try the Jelly Riva (vodka, melon syrup, lime juice on top of jelly).

!3 1/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Athit Rd., 02633-5000. Open daily 6:30am-10:30pm.

49 Phra Athit Rd., 081-406-3773. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight

MORNING Start your walking tour from Prachan Pier (Tha Prachan in Thai), near which you’ll find the historic 2 National Museum (4 Na Phra Tha Rd., 02-2241333), home to some of the most impressive art and antiques in the country. In addition to historic pieces from the Dvaravati Srivijaya to Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods, the museum features regional art like Indian Gandhara, Chinese weapons, ancient ceramics and musical instruments. At the other end of Sanam Luang is the most-visited

NATIONAL MUSEUM

you the palace is closed for a national holiday. Ignore them! On the same grounds, you’ll also find the 4 Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles (Na Phra Lan Rd., Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang,

WAT PHRA KAEW

landmark in Thailand, 3 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew (open daily 8:30am-4:30pm. Entry B350). Construction on the royal residence of the first king of the current Chakri Dynasty began in 1762, and the complex is split into three zones: the Outer Court, where you’ll find Wat Phra Kaew and the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred Buddha image; the Middle Court, which contains the Dusit Maha Prasat and Chakri Maha Prasat buildings; and the Inner Court, former residence of the royal consorts. Be sure to get there early before the day is too hot. Beware, touts will tell

AFTERNOON Behind the Grand Palace, on the bank of the Chao Phraya River, is the twoyear-old 5 Nagaraphirom Park. What was once a row of shop-houses and several other old buildings is now a breathable green space with views of the Grand Palace. Relax among trees and lotus ponds and enjoy a great view of the Temple of Dawn before you continue on your walk. Next, pay your respects to the 43-meterlong reclining Buddha at 6 Wat Pho (open daily 8am-5pm), whose three-

QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM OF TEXTILES

02-255-9430), which tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand. Highlights include the queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading international designers. WAT PHO

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EXPLORING

OLD TOWN meter-tall feet are inlaid with mother of pearl displaying 108 Buddhist symbols. In a beautiful colonial-style building nearby, 7 Museum Siam (4 Sanam Chai Rd., 02-225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm) is one of Bangkok’s best museums, portraying the history of Thai communities through multimedia installations and interactive exhibitions. The venue also hosts an interesting lineup of rotating exhibitions.

JAZZ BARS Bangkok’s Old Town is a haven for jazz and blues clubs. Here are some of the best.

!4 Adhere the 13th

BROWN SUGAR

Just around the corner from backpacker-central Khao San Road, this acoustic, live blues and jazz insitution packs out every night. Indoors can only seat about 20, so you might find yourself perched outdoors, Singha beer in hand, listening to the loud and energetic music being belted out to a crowd of old-time expats and self-styled local blues-men. 13 Samsen Rd., 089-769-4613. Open daily 6pm-midnight. www.fb.com/adhere13thbluesbar

EVENING

!5 Jazz Happens This little jazz boutique owned by Nu Vudthivichai, one of Thailand’s most prominent pianists, showcases the skills of a wide range of performers, from contestants on The Voice TV show to students and graduates of Silpakorn Jazz Faculty. Order a bottle of Singha, some gab glaem (Thai drinking food), and swing away. 62 Phra Athit Rd., 02-282-9934. Open daily 7pm-1am. www.fb.com/jazZhappens

!6 Brown Sugar This place ranks as one of Bangkok’s best jazz bars for a reason. The Phra Sumen Road institution offers classic Western comfort food, cocktails and live performances by quality local jazz bands dominated by finalists of The Voice like Tissue Paper and Attention Please. Performances run from 8:30 pm from Tue-Sun.

SALA RATTANAKOSIN

After exploring Thailand’s heritage, take a break at 8 Sala Rattanakosin (39 Soi Ta Tien, Maharaj Rd., 02-622-1388) and enjoy Thai food with great views of the 9 Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun). This stylish riverside venue boasts a small number

JAZZ HAPPENS

469 Phra Sumen Rd., 08-1805-7759. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.fb.com/brownsugarbangkok

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of guestrooms but half of the building is dedicated to wining and dining. There’s also a rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping cocktails. If you’re in the mood for more drinks, head to !0 The Deck (Arun Residence, 36-38 Maharaj Rd. 02-221-9158), a charming outdoor venue just a short walk from Sala Rattanakosin. Set in a five-room boutique hotel, The Deck offers a delightful atmosphere in which to enjoy another drink or two, and also has a sophisticated Thai food menu. Finish your Old Town tour with a night visit to !1 Pak Klong Talad (open 24 hours), Bangkok’s largest flower market. Flowers from not only Thailand but around the world arrive here each day to be distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers. If you’ve still got some energy left, go mingle with backpackers from all over the world on the notorious !2 Khao San Road, or head to the local drinking street of choice, Phra Athit, which is just around the corner. Our top address there is !3 Babble & Rum (see spotlight).

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2 National Museum 3 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew 4 Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles 5 Nagaraphirom Park 6 Wat Pho 7 Museum Siam 8 Sala Rattanakosin 9 Wat Arun !0 The Deck !1 Pak Klong Talad !2 Khao San Road !3 Babble & Rum !4 Adhere the 13th !5 Jazz Happens !6 Brown Sugar

GETTING THERE

It’s not easy to get to the Old Town as there is no the sky train or MRT coverage, and a car journey can take up to an hour due to heavy traffic. The most convenient route is perhaps to take the sky train to BTS Saphan Taksin and catch a boat from Sathorn Pier to Pra Athit Pier.

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ThewhereGuide AUGUST 2016 | BANGKOK

NEW

SANEH JAAN

Vaulted ceilings, rich vermillion-red accents and dining tables hewn from whole tree trunks create a majestic setting to indulge in refined Thai cuisine drawn from ancient recipes. These have each been selected by local food guru Torroong Jarungidanan, publisher of two cookbooks and writer of a regular newpaper column. Dishes like the gai baan kua bai jan (free-range chicken stir-fried with wild basil) and gaeng ranjuan (shrimp-paste pork soup, B380) pack powerful flavors and wonderful ingredients sourced from across the country. Glasshouse at Sindhorn, 130-132 Wireless Rd., 02-650-9880. Open daily 6-10pm

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 24 NIGHTLIFE 25 DINING

28 SHOP 29 HEALTH & WELLNESS

30 ATTRACTIONS 31 ART

32 NAVIGATE

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YOU’VE GOT AN APPOINTMENT WITH THE BEACH.

OUR WORLD IS YOUR PLAYGROUND AN

BRAND

PULLMANKHAOLAK.COM

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE NEW

EVIL MAN BLUES

Craggy-bearded barmen labor over serious, booze-heavy cocktails amid a photogenic mix of wood, marble, brass and neon at this sexy little cocktail lounge—possibly the hottest place on a strip of hot new bars. Funk, old-school hip-hop and r’n’b provide the soundtrack as you knock back glass after glass of potent stuff like the Jet Lagged, which sees bourbon, coffee liqueur, sweet vermouth, black walnut bitters and Grand Marnier poured into one very powerful wake-me-up—the perfect way to welcome yourself to Bangkok. G/F, 72 Courtyard, 72 Thonglor Rd., 02-392-7740.

Hot Spots

1

AWARD-WINNING COCKTAILS

This Broadway-burlesque space on the lobby floor of a theater-themed hotel dishes out drinks courtesy of a Diageo World Class cocktail comp finalist. Amid Louis XIV-style velvet sofas and a liquor shelf surrounded by backstage mirrors, sup on things like Earthbeet, woody drink with a beetroot-infused tequila base mixed with sweet vermouth, Campari, Cynar (artichoke liqueur) and mezcal, garnished with a slice of beetroot and torched liquorice. Got the munchies? Kha-kai (salty crispy bread sticks) are complimentary. L/F, Playhaus Thonglor, 205/22-23 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-712-5747. Open daily 6pm-1am.

BAMBOO BAR

2

5

BACKSTAGE BAR

BAMBOO BAR

The Mandarin Oriental’s bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. It’s also one of the coolest, thanks to a decadently atmospheric interior that manages to pull off leopard print and bamboo furniture with astonishingly tasteful flair. Singers take the mic at 9pm daily, accompanied by music from a baby grand and surrounded by framed portraits of jazz legends. Then there’s the head barman, who cut his teeth in the sacred cocktail-making ground of London’s Artesian bar. 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoen Krung Soi 40 (Oriental Ave.), 02-659-9000. Open Sun-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. BTS Saphan Taksin

VERTIGO TOO

Sixty levels above Sathorn Road, Hawaiinative Mitchel Kai Lum mans the bar at this new tapas restaurant and cocktail lounge, and has already put his stamp on the regional cocktail competition scene with The Haole—a Bacardi Legacy-winning mix of white rum, white vermouth, lemon juice and pineapple syrup topped with ginger ale. It’s the kind of refreshing, tropical long drink that has you longing for the beach. IL FUMO

3

IL FUMO

This grand old villa reborn as a cocktails and Italian grill restaurant boasts some of Bangkok’s most incredible cocktails. Head bartender Pailin “Milk” Sajjanit just got named Southeast Asia Bartender of the Year at the 2016 Diageo World Class awards. It helps that the bar itself is also a moody temple to well-worn leather and wood paneling, while the adjoining restaurant grills up giant imported steaks on wood-fired ovens.

60/F, Banyan Tree, 100 Sathorn Rd., 02-679-1200. Open daily 5pm-1am. MRT Lumphini

Y SPOTLIGHT

1098/2 Rama 4 Rd., 02-286-8833. Open daily 6pm-1am. MRT Khlong Toei

4

TEENS OF THAILAND

Hiding behind a rugged wooden door is this small, moody bar belonging to a who’swho of Bangkok’s art and nightlife scene, from fashion photographers and party organizers to mixologists and musicians. The real highlight is the vast collection of gin, from the must-try Hanami (the house pour) to the locally distilled Iron Balls and house-infused selections. The decor mixes old shop-house charm with racy photographs. Our tip: tell the barman what kind of cocktail you like and let him make something new for you. 76 Soi Nana, Charoen Krung Rd., 081-443-3784. Open Wed-Sun 7pm-midnight. MRT Hua Lamphong

Let the Boy Die The crumbling walls, hanging plants and warm lighting gives this shop-house bar a charming and homey vibe, perfect for a casual night out for some local brew amid a mix of indie-pop and live three-piece jazz. Here, you’ll find a small selection of Thai-made home-brews on tap alongside the owner’s own brew Golden Coins. The drinking food is pretty hearty, like the Californian-inspired Dead Boy beef burger, which comes with blue cheese, mushroom, carrot and cabbage slaw. 542 Luang Rd., 082-675-9673, 080-599-6177. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight

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DINING NEW

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TORO

Bangkok’s food scene extends way beyond Thai flavors. One of the most exciting recent openings sees an American team lead a kitchen specializing in Barcelonainspired tapas. The name Toro is already well-established in Boston and New York for bold, contemporary flavors, and here that results in dishes imbued with some local touches, like mangosteen with seared foie gras served with roselle sauce, or hanger steak with caramelized red onion and green curry. The space is every bit the exposed warehouse dream, offset by crisp, contemporary furnishings. 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02392-7790. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight

Y SPOTLIGHT

Hot Spots MODERN ASIAN CUISINE

2

LE DU

Once in a while, a Thai restaurant comes around that manages to fuse classic Thai food with modern Western techniques in a manner that doesn’t feel heavy-handed or forced. Such is the case with Le Du, headed by Chef Thitid Tassanakajorn, a Thai chef with a degree from the Culinary Institute of America and stints at 11 Madison Park and The Modern. The menu changes seasonally and the wine list is sourced solely from organic or boutique outfits.

GAGGAN

1

399/3 Silom Soi 7, 092-919-9969. Open Mon-Sat 6-11pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

GAGGAN

Chef Gaggan Anand’s name went around the world when his eponymous restaurant was named Asia’s 50 Best’s No. 1 restaurant in 2015, a feat followed up this year. Each night, in a classically restored house on Langsuan Road, the chef’s team offers a tasting menu where diners’ expectations of Indian food are first thrown overboard and then blown out of the water by Gaggan’s El Bulli-influenced creativity. 68/1 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-1700. Open daily 6pmmidnight. BTS Ratchadamri LE DU

3

Blue Elephant The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts. Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavor. While more modern Thai restaurants have lately grabbed most column inches, Blue Elephant is still worth a visit for both atmosphere and food. 233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak

OSHA

The very definition of “OTT,” Osha hosts a menu of reimagined Thai dishes in a dining room crowned with a gold-leaf-coated stairwell and elaborate wallpaper depicting scenes from Thai mythology. Dishes like the Ocean & Flora salad highlight the menu’s two strong suits: premium produce and botanical flavors. Elsewhere, an old staple like green curry is dressed up with spherified pearls of coconut milk.

OSHA

99 Wireless Rd., 02-256-6555. Open daily 11am2:30pm; Fri-Sat 6pm-midnight; Sun-Thu 6-11pm

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TASTE OF THE CITY

DINING HONG KONG Recent Openings

LA PIAZZA

An established Italian fine-dining name turns his attention to pizza. 50/4 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-661-0588. www.fb.com/lapiazzabangkok. BTS Phrom Phong

RARB

The new bar from the guys behind Escapade is all about laab and customized cocktails. 49 Phra Athit Rd., 081-406-3773.

TOUCHE HOMBRE

A trendy blend of Mexican booze, street art and hip hop tunes. 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Thonglor, 061-550-6346.

Advertise your business with us ­ starting from B5,000

AZUL New Latin cuisine in Thonglor. 16 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-6117. www. facebook.com/AzulNuevoLatino.

Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Credit card payment accepted.

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GUIDE

DINING STREET FOOD CLASSICS

4

SRA BUA BY KIIN KIIN

This molecular gastronomy restaurant specializing solely in Thai food offers a complete dining experience in a fairy-tale decor of delicate Thai pavilions. The sister of Copenhagen’s Kiin Kiin (which has held a Michelin star since 2008), Sra Bua reconceptualizes dishes like red curry, transforming it into an ice cream, while dotting its tom yam soup with gelatinous pearls of lobster essence.

Lobby/F, Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd. BTS Siam. 02-162-9000. Siam. Open daily noon-3pm, 6-11:30pm.

ZUMA

The surroundings as well as the food lures the rich and beautiful to Zuma. Bamboo, granite and glass dominate the dining area with its vast open kitchen, making this a great place to enjoy dishes like black cod marinated in saikyo miso or sliced sea bass with yuzu truffle oil. But the big, expansive bar also makes Zuma an exemplary watering hole, especially if you opt for one of the restaurant’s signature cocktails.

Khao Soi This Northern-style noodle dish consists of egg noodles and chicken curry soup topped with crunchy noodles for texture. The dish is served with condiments on the side, including pickled greens and chili paste. Not in the mood for chicken? Some places will also let you substitute the chicken curry with beef. Try it at: Hom Duan, 70/2 Ekkamai Soi 2 This rice-noodle dish is stir fried at high heat with tofu, fish sauce, eggs, dried shrimp, garlic, palm sugar, sprouts and tamarind paste, along with either fresh chicken, shrimp or crabs, creating a blend of delicious flavors. Although the dish is great in itself, there are fancier options available, such as the pad Thai hor khai, where the pad Thai is wrapped in a thin egg crepe.

SRA BUA BY KIIN KIIN

5

PAD THAI

Pad Thai

Y

ZUMA

G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd. BTS Ratchadamri. 02-252-4707. Open daily 11:30am3pm; Sun-Thu 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 6-11:30pm.

Try it at: Pad Thai Thip Samai, 313 Mahachai Rd.

Tom Yum The nation’s favorite spicy soup distinguishes itself with bold, sour and spicy flavors. It’s made with an array of Thai herbs such as lemongrass, kaffir lime and galangal, and usually served with shrimp (although fish, mixed seafood and mushroom are also popular). Enjoy it with some rice on the side to balance out the spice. Try it at: Niyom Pochana, 125 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor)

Som Tam Hailing from the Northeast of Thailand (most Thai street food actually comes from Chinese origin), this sweet, sour and spicy Thai salad is made from unripe papaya pounded with fish sauce, palm sugar, dried shrimps, nuts, lime and chili. Eat it with kor moo yang (grilled pork neck served with a spicy dipping sauce), gai yang (grilled chicken) and a hand-rolled ball of sticky rice. Try it at: Sabai Jai Kai Yang, 65 Ekkamai Soi 1

Khao Man Gai Don’t let the simple appearance fool you. This dish of lean white chicken meat on top of rice packs serious flavor. The rice gets cooked in chicken broth, fresh garlic, ginger roots, salt and grounded white pepper, while the dipping sauce of yellow soybean, garlic and chili adds a potent kick. Many khao man gai stores also serve khao man gai tod, where fried chicken is served in place of its lean counterpart. Try it at: Khao Man Ghai Pratunam, 962 Petchaburi Rd.

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GUIDE

SHOPS+SERVICES NEW

CAMP BKK

You can’t say you’ve been to Bangkok if you haven’t been to Siam Square: the city’s youth and young adult fashion center. There are hundreds of stores, but this latest one rounds up some of the very best designers into one huge space. Womenswear, sunglases, shoes, bags and other accessories are spread across three stories—and all of it comes from local Thai designers. Head up to the top floor to also take part in weekly workshops like calligraphy, watercolor painting and flower arranging. 392/27-28 Siam Square Soi 5, 02-252-2334. Open daily noon-9pm. BTS Siam.

Hot Spots

1

BEST SHOPPING MALLS

3

CENTRAL EMBASSY

CENTRAL EMBASSY

The Phloen Chit area’s luxury mall dedicates eight floors to retail shops from some of the world’s most exciting fashion brands, including Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin and Jil Sander. Food-wise there are a host of high-end local restaurants alongside popular eateries from around the world, such as dessert bar Chikalicious from New York and French patisserie Paul. There’s also a deluxe cinema on the sixth floor, where you can lie down under a duvet and enjoy a glass of wine. 1031 Ploenchit Rd. 02-119-7777. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit.

2

SIAM PARAGON

Bangkok’s original ultra-luxury mall has yet to fade from the spotlight thanks to its prime location in the city’s biggest hub for shopping and next to the one of the busiest BTS stations. The towering glass facade contains a huge selection of clothing stores, from Hermes and Chanel to trendy favorites like H&M and Zara, as well as a wide array of restaurants and a huge food court. Entertainment spots include a bowling alley, an IMAX cinema, an outdoor concert venue, and Siam Ocean World, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium.

Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam.

THE EMQUARTIER

5

SIAM DISCOVERY

This new shopping mall is part of a B20 billion restyling of the Phrom Phong area as EM District, a development of premium hotels, offices, residences and entertainment facilities. The result is packed with high-end boutiques including flagship stores from MCM, Jimmy Choo, Valentino, Sephora and A Bathing Ape, plus cult Asian brands Stylenanda (Korea) and Beams (Japan). As a bonus, the striking development also features a spiralling tower of restaurants, 40-meter-high man-made waterfall and plenty of green space.

A top-to-bottom renovation of the buidling and total overhaul of the stores inside has really made this once-aging mall a must-visit destination for any shopper. As well as all the big international brands, you’ll find a focus on the best of local, Thaimade design. Don’t miss O.D.S., a store dedicated to award-winning local home decor, jewelry and accessories, or the selection of Japanese cult labels like Issey Miyake, Yoshio Kubo and Discord by Yoji Yamamoto. The store itself is also pretty spectacular, created by Japanese design house Nendo.

The EmDistrict, Sukhumvit Rd. 02-269-1000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong.

Rama 1 Rd. 02-658-1000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam.

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THE EMPORIUM

The older of the two shopping malls which make up the EM District is set in the heart of Bangkok’s upscale residential area. Enjoy a shopping mall experience without the crowds, largely due to upscale tenants like Hermes, Louis Vuitton and Dior. As well as high-end brands, you’ll also find some of the best Thai designers like Jaspal, Disaya and Greyhound. The upper floors house plenty of eating options as well as a cinema and the excellent art and design library, TCDC.

The EmDistrict, Sukhumvit Rd. 02-269-1000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong.

THE EMPORIUM

JIM THOMPSON The original, main store of this pioneering Thai silk brand stocks silk clothes and accessories across its significant three floors. The space is classic and palatial, paneled with teak from wall to wall, and features a range of elegant silks, from pillowcases and scarves to clubby neckties. There are other branches at Jim Thompson House (a must-visit within the walking distance of BTS National Stadium) as well as various malls and five-star hotels around Bangkok. 9 Surawong Rd., 02-632-8100. Open daily 9am-9pm. BTS Sala Daeng.

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HEALTH + WELLNESS

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HARNN HERITAGE SPA KRUNGTHREP NEW

A soothing world of minty hues, contemporary Thai furnishings and intensive spa treatments awaits visitors of Harnn Heritage Spa Krungthrep—the latest pampering palace from our favorite local spa brand. Unlike your usual dimly lit, secluded spa, this one has huge windows that brighten up the whole space as you wait to be let in for delicious treatments like the Ploenchit Therapy—a 60-minute journey of foot pampering and back rubs using massage oils that smell so, so good. The masseurs here don’t just have soothing hands; they also know how to avoid small talk, helping you to relax whatever your state of undress. 12M/F, Zen Tower, CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 02-252-5725. Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS Chit Lom.

Hot Spots BEST THAI SPAS

3

SPA BOTANICA

Teak floors and Jim Thompson silks give this spa villa surrounded by lush gardens a luxurious yet homey feel. Inside you’ll find several rooms, equipped with steam facilities, jacuzzis and private balconies with views of the garden. Check in for a simple aromatherapy facial, or indulge in all-day wellness packages like the “Jasmine Puring Ritual,” a decadent combination of scrubs, oil massages and facials. Guys, you’ll find a special menu just for you, too.

1

OASIS SPA

OASIS SPA

Set in a stylish compound, this spa’s cool white exterior gives way to 15 treatment rooms decorated in a Thai Lanna style. The King of Oasis is best suited to men and features a two-hour hot Thai herbal muscle compress and a hot oil massage. Ladies can opt for the two-hour Queen of Oasis, which blends Swedish and aromatherapy massages. They also have other a la carte and package treatments for hair, body and face. 64 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-262-2122. Open daily 10am-10pm.

2

HEALTH LAND

The Sukhothai, 13/3 Sathorn Rd., 02-2344-8900. Open daily 9am-10pm. MRT Lumphini.

4

5

WAT PHO

Located next to the Grand Palace, this is one of the oldest temples in Bangkok, home to the 43-meter-long reclining Buddha and credited as the birthplace of Thai massage. The temple massage school still runs today, meaning visitors can get some of the most authentic massage anywhere in the city. They also run short courses for anyone who’d like to learn for themselves. Sanam Chai Rd., 02-255-4771. Open daily 8am-6pm.

Y SPOTLIGHT

MYTH

Its massages are heavily influenced by the Wat Pho school—credited as the birthplace of Thai massage—and are performed using their own blend of essential oils. The modern-rustic decor could come straight from a five-star hotel, but the prices are much more down-to-earth, while the main treatment room is arranged in the traditional, Thai-style communal format. There’s also a delightful al fresco bar, a boutique selling Thai-made textiles, and a private fortune-telling service. 28/3 Soi Ruam Rudi, 02-651-5600-1. Open daily noon-midnight. BTS Phloen Chit.

Devarana Spa Bangkok This is truly one of the best spas in Bangkok for an over-the-top spa session that goes well beyond a massage. Their signature treatments include The Heavenly Nantha Garden Experience, a 2.5-hour bath, scrub and massage that combines Thai, Ayurveda and Shiatsu techniques; The Harmony of Tad Si The Traditional Thai Medicine, a treatment using Thai herbal compresses and aromatic oils to relax muscles and pressure points; and the Kenya Sensory Journey, a skin-rejuvinating body scrub, wrap and oil massage with native herbs and plants.

Set in a grand, Thai-style building in front of Ekkamai Soi 10, this is considered one of the best spas in Bangkok thanks to its clean facilities, well-trained staff and wallet-friendly prices. A two-hour traditional Thai massage is also at a reasonable price, accounting for its local popularity. Unlike most street-side massage shops, its Thai massages are done in private rooms. They also have another branch at Sathorn Soi 10. 96/1, Ekkamai Soi 10, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-392-2233. Open daily 9am-midnight. MYTH

Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-636-3596. Open daily 9am-10pm. MRT Silom.

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ATTRACTIONS DINOSAUR PLANET NEW

The scale and quality of this attraction in the heart of Bagkok is beyond anything we’ve ever seen here. That doesn’t mean you should expect Universal Studios, but this 500-million-baht theme park is definitely world class. The focus is on dinosaurs, which translates to a lot of very cool animatronic, life-sized reptiles bobbing their heads and blinking at you with their doey eyes. Beyond the selfie opportunities, you can climb onto the Dino Eye for a rather unimpressive view (given that the surrounding buildings are taller than the ferris wheel), watch a “4D” film, or get chased about by guys in raptor suits. 554/1 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-833-2209. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

Hot Spots COOL TOURS AROUND BANGKOK

3

BANGKRACHAO

1

CYCLING BANGKRACHAO WITH SPICE ROADS

Escape the hustle and bustle of the inner city and go on a 25km bike journey that takes you through villages, floating markets and green jungle on the lesser-visited west bank of the Chao Phraya River. You’ll get to see historical attractions like temples from the Ayutthaya period and a grand Buddha image. The tour costs B1,250 inclusive of bike and helmet. Two participants are required for the trip, which departs at 8:30am and 1pm.

www.spiceroads.com/tours/bangkok_jungle

2

LEARNING TO COOK THAI FOOD WITH COOKLY

Discover how to make traditional Thai food or artistically carve fruits with Cookly, a platform where you can book incredible hands-on cooking classes, wine tastings, and food tours with a range of venues across the city. They offer a wide selection of culinary adventures not just in Bangkok but also Chiang Mai and Khao Yai. Prices range from B1,000 to B3,500 per class.

MIDNIGHT TUK TUK TOURING WITH HIVESTERS

Take a four-hour tour of Bangkok nightlife from the back of one of this city’s iconic motorized rickshaws. You’ll pass through seven must-visit food spots to eat the best pad Thai and khao mun gai (Hainanese chicken rice) you’ve ever tasted, along with other popular dishes beloved of Thais. This local experience will not only satisfy your appetite but also support street vendor communities. On top of that, you’ll get to see flower markets and temples after sunset for the price of B1,900 per person. www.hivesters.com

4

VISITING LOCAL COMMUNITIES WITH LOCAL ALIKE

Explore the nooks and crannies of the local communities in Ban Bat and Kudeejeen and learn about the religious culture of alms bowl production. These traditionally hand-made bowls serve a significant purpose in Buddhism. The Lost Treasure in Bangkok itinerary also includes a boat ride along the Chao Praya River and a dessert workshop where you’ll get to make chor muang (Thai steamed dumpling). The tour requires at least two travelers and costs B3,740 per person. www.localalike.com/listing/lost-treasure-in-bangkok

5

DISCOVERING THE OLD TOWN WITH EXPIQUE

Explore Rattanakosin Island, AKA Bangkok’s Old Town, by foot with this two-hour tour hopping around the area’s famous historical landmarks. While the tour promises must-visit destinations including The Grand Palace and Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha), you’ll also discover some lesser-known spots such as Wat Ratchapradit and Saranrom Park. Book now at expique.com for B790 per person. www.expique.com/tour/bangkok/rattanakosin-storywalking-tour

Y SPOTLIGHT

National Museum Formerly the viceroy’s palace, the National Museum is a must-see complex of traditional Thai structures. The front hall itself is highlighted by a monumental Buddha head from the Ayutthaya period that overlooks the whole exhibition space, while a stunningly graceful bronze Bodhisattva from the Srivijaya period takes center stage amid Khmer and Hindu sculptures. You’ll also find carefully kept smaller pieces ranging from Buddhist art to delicate Rattanakosin-era puppets.

www.cookly.me

LOCAL ALIKE

4 Na Phra That Rd., 02 224-1404, 02-224-1333. Open TueSun 9am-4pm.

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ART

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SAVE THAI BUFFALO AND NEW MOSAIC SERIES For his latest exhibition, contemporary photographer and artist Maitree Siriboon presents at Yenakart Villa a series of phographs capturing buffaloes which he rescued from slaughter. On them, he has painted replica works of artists including Picasso and Warhol in an attempt to reverse social stigma around the animals. Yenakart is one of Bangkok's most-striking private galleries, sitting in a vast mid-century home and garden down a leafy residential street. Through Aug 15. Yenakart Villa, 69 Soi Prasat Suk, Yen Akat Rd., 02-235-9800. MRT Khlong Toei

Hot Spots TOP EXHIBITIONS THIS MONTH

1

THE WAY OF QUALITY LIVING

Y SPOTLIGHT

American photographer Christopher Wise presents an exhibition documenting Bangkok's architectural fabric, from decaying '70s buildings to air-conditioned skyscrapers reminiscent of Singapore and Dubai's buildings. Through Aug 14. WTF Gallery & Cafe, 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. BTS Thong Lo

3

KID WITHIN BY SUNDAE KIDS

KID WITHIN BY SUNDAE KIDS

The Bangkok illustrator hosts her first exhibition. Taken from her "Kid Within" series, the images capture fun, nostalgic moments from childhood.

Through Sep 16. Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02-238-1991.

SOLO SHOW BY PATIPAT

2

SOLO SHOW BY PATIPAT CHAIWITESH

Thai artist Patipat Chaiwitesh explores the differences between traditional French tapestry and Thai basketry in his collection of design works that attempt to combine the two styles.

Through Aug 29, Soy Sauce Factory, 11/1 Charoen Krung Soi 24, 061-835-6824. MRT Hua Lamphong

4

BLOOD, SWEAT & BEERS

Seven Thai artists explore the concept of beer drinking in Thai culture and its role as both a celebratory drink and a comfort for stressful times.

Through Aug 31, Kalwit Studio & Gallery, 119/14 Ruamrudee Soi 2, Wireless Rd. BTS Phloen Chit

H Gallery Set in a beautiful late-19th century, wooden building, H Gallery's exhibitions represent emerging contemporary Asian artist and are curated by Brian Curtin, one of the foremost experts in this field. One of Bangkok's more daring art spaces, it's not afraid to host provocative or controversial work. 201 Sathorn Soi 12, 085-021-5508. Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm; Mon 10am-6pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

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BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

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MRT

5 Khao San Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

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7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

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8 Wat Pho

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On Nut ͋͹¹Øª

FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

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NAVIGATE

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Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS­ Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130. The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS­ While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 AUGUST 2016 I W HERE THA ILA N D 33

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

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8

!3 1 Taking in sweeping views of the city with a colorful cocktail in hand at Above Eleven, a rooftop bar with stellar views. See page 10.

!5 6 Checking in to Health Land for the most comfortable and best-priced foot massage around. See page 29.

9

!9 !2 Island hopping while admiring the !8 Dancing the night away on Asia’s stunning limestone karsts that dominate the Krabi coastline. See page 7.

first kinetic dance floor at Beam, the latest trending club in the heart of Bangkok’s nightlife hub. See page 13.

7 Sampling molecular Indian dishes !3 Chowing down on a hearty plate of 2 Getting a tension-relieving Thai at Gaggan, Asia’s no. 1 restaurant pad Thai hor khai goong at Pad Thai !9 Sipping on local craft beer straight massage at the spiritual home of the art, Wat Pho, also home to the 46-meter-long reclining Buddha. See page 16.

according to World’s 50 Best Restaurants for the second year running. See page 25.

Thip Samai, an old-school one-dish specialist tucked inside a shop-house near the hip Charoenkrung area. See page 25.

from the tap at Let the Boy Die, a two-story shop-house-turned hipster beer bar in the Old Town. See page 24.

8 Shopping at local design stores @0 Winding down with a Thai herbal 3 Eating the inventive, five-course for trendy home decor brands at the !4 Discovering Michelin-star-worthy compress and hot oil massage at Oasis tasting menu at Le Du, one of our favorite kitchens in town. See page 25.

newly-renovated Siam Discovery. See page 28.

Thai dishes with a molecular twist at Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin. See page 25.

4 Drinking in the cityscape view from the alfresco Octave bar on top of the Bangkok Marriot Sukhumvit Hotel. See page 10.

9 Sipping on the barrel-aged cocktails at Bangkok’s oldest jazz institution, Bamboo Bar. See page 24.

!5 Sipping a potent cocktail on the @1 Shopping for luxury labels from stunning mezzanine of Sing Sing, a newly-opened 1930s Shanghaithemed bar. See page 13.

Spa, a stylish compound decorated in a Thai Lanna style. See page 29.

the likes of Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin and Jil Sander at Central Embassy. See page 28.

!0 Having an adventurous day out in 5 Heading down south to Phuket Bangkrachao, also known as Bang- !6 Admiring the work of established Town, where the beautiful SinoPortugese architecture has recently been restored to its former glory. See page 6.

kok’s green lungs, with a bicycle tour by Spice Roads. See page 30.

and emerging Thai and international artists at the Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre. See page 31.

!1 Tucking into a warm plate of Thai chicken rice at Khao Man Gai Tah Fah after a late night out in Charoenkrung. See page 27.

!7 Kicking back with a two-hour spa treatment at Spa Botanica, an urban retreat surrounded by lush gardens. See page 29.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

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34 W H E R E T H AILAND I A UGUS T 2 0 1 6

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