Where® Thailand February 2016 by Where Thailand

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F E B RU A R Y 2 0 1 6 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

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Thai cuisine’s modern side Phuket’s best restaurants

e d i u G ’ s r e v o L angkok to B Let romance blossom with these luxury indulgences for couples

LES CLEFS D’OR THAIL AND

THE PREFERRED PUBLICATION OF YOUR HOTEL CONCIERGE

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CONTENTS where

l THAILAND l FEBRUARY 2016

The Guide BANGKOK 23 DINING Dine outdoors at these beautiful alfresco restaurants, from rooftops with stunning views to classic Thai garden bistros.

26 NIGHTLIFE Get a kick with some local flavor at these hot new bars specializing in drinks with a Thai twist.

LOOKING FOR LOVE

28 SHOPS+SERVICES Find that perfect present at one of Bangkok's coolest multi-label fashion stores.

Bangkok's most romantic couples' experiences, from fine dining to luxury pampering.

29 HEALTH+WELLNESS

DINING

A visit to Bangkok wouldn't be complete without an incredible Thai massage. Here are our favorites.

Discover the restaurants embracing classic Thai flavors while pushing the cuisine in brave new directions.

30 ATTRACTIONS

10 THAI FOOD NOW Spend a day exploring one of Bangkok's traditional teak homes, many of which now serve as stunning museums.

AROUND THAILAND

31 ART

14 PHUKET'S BEST RESTAURANTS

The best exhibitions in Bangkok's galleries this month.

The Pearl of the Andaman's top spots for romantic dinners, beach eats and authentic Southern dishes.

32 NAVIGATE Essential tips on getting around.

EXPLORING 18 UPPER SILOM

ALSO INSIDE

Craft cocktails, cult coffee specialists and hip restaurants sit side by side with some of the bestknown galleries in the Bangkok art biz'.

HOT DATES

34 21 THINGS WE LOVE

18 Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon

20 CHAROENKRUNG The oldest street in Bangkok winds along the river, encompassing luxurious restaurants, heritage architecture and an emerging but vibrant nightlife scene.

Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Senior Designer Panita Thiraphapong

Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Where Designer Wariya Whangwaewklang

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon

Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Lily Kittisrikangwan, Natcha Saguankiattichai, Bonnie Sananvatananont

Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Finance & Admin Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda GarciaFetherston National Traffic Coordinator

Leleah Robinson MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

Distribution Manager Suda Angsuputiphant Cover By Panita Thiraphapong

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, Room A, 100 North Sathorn Rd. Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

Where Thailand is proud to be an associated publication of the Thailand Chapter of Les Clefs d'Or (the International Concierge Association).

www.wherethailand.com

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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HOT DATES

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FEB 9

QUEEN OF POP

The 57-year-old pop diva takes the Bangkok stage as part of her Rebel Heart tour. Madonna Live in Bangkok is part of the pop superstar’s 10th world tour, which promises to include performances of her all-time greatest hits including “Like a Virgin,” “Material Girl,” “Music,” “Hung Up” and “4 Minutes”. Tickets go from B2,000 all the way up to B16,000 atThaiticketmajor.com Impact arena Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd, 02-833-4455

FEB 12-MAR 6

FEB 19

FEB 22

FEB 28

Director Joe Harmston presents Steven Dietz’s 1996 stage adaptation of Dracula in a play that combines magic, illusion and music. The performance follows Dracula’s arrival in England, where he tries to drink the blood of two young women only to be defeated by their suitors. Starring local and international talents including Hugo Chakrabongse, Myra Molloy and Joe Dixon. Tickets are B1,2003,800 from Thaiticketmajor.com.

The five-time Grammy Award-winning jazz artist Diana Krall performs tracks from her latest studio album, Wallflower, comprising covers of popular pop and rock hit songs from the ‘60s through to today, including those by Bob Dylan, Elton John and The Eagles. Tickets are B1,500-5,000 from Thaiticketmajor.com.

On Makha Bucha Day, Thais across the country circle temples at dusk with candles, incense and flowers in hand to celebrate Buddha’s last major sermon, at which more than 1,000 of his students are said to have gathered to meditate alongside him. In Bangkok, we recommend you visit Wat Benjamabophit (The Marble Temple) and Wat Saket (Temple of the Golden Mount), both of which are friendly to visitors and attract some of the largest crowds each year.

One of the city’s most beautiful streets, home to Thailand’s largest golden pagoda, shuts down for one night of live swing music from Sweden’s Carling Big Band, who’ll be accompanied by 140 dancers from 16 countries. Big Bang Swing Dance also promises plenty of local street eats from food vendors and a free introductory dance class. As well as a great night of dancing, the event also serves as a opportunity to check out one of the cultural hearts of old Bangkok.

DARK TIMES

PLAY IT AGAIN

Royal Paragon Hall, 5/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-8023. BTS Siam

Siam Pic-Ganesha Theatre, 7/F, Siam Square One. BTS Siam

LAST WORDS

IN THE SWING

Rot Fai Rd., Nakhon Pathom. on.fb.me/23dUA4Z

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VALENTINE’S SPECIAL

INCREDIBLE INDULGENCES

Lavish spas, romantic fine dining, breathtaking bars and beautiful gifts for the month of love.

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON

SRA BUA BY KIIN KIIN

EAT ME

THE WATER LIBRARY

ROMANTIC FINE DINING THE WATER LIBRARY Serving up fine European cuisine with discreet Asian twists, this restaurant is also really gorgeous, much more like something you’d find in an elegant boutique hotel than a mall. The use of steel, glass and gray wood is striking without being cold, thanks to cozy corners that conjure a library atmosphere. Chef Mirco Keller worked at Tim Raue’s two-Michelinstar restaurant and a couple one-Michelin star venues. Some dishes, like the Chilean sea bass with mushroom-bacon ragout and Ponzu truffle butter, are outstanding. 2/F, Chamchuri Square, Rama 4 Rd., 02-160-5188/9. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-10pm. MRT Sam Yan

EAT ME

Ranked 25th in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2015, chef Tim Butler’s kitchen pulls off bold combinations like Alaskan scallops with avocado, yuzu and pancetta, while a simple chicken salad is elevated to new heights by the addition of red papaya, toasted coconut and betel leaf. The decor is a cool, yet cozy, melange of modernist and natural, with rotating exhibitions by local artists. The service is diligent and sweet, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Soi Phiphat 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. Open daily 3pm-1am. BTS Sala Daeng

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON

SRA BUA BY KIIN KIIN

Borrowing the same concepts from all L’Atelier branches, this elegant red and black space has diners seated around a large open kitchen, a format more remniscent of a sushi bar than classic dining a la Francaise. The food remains unmistakebly French, though: free-range quail stuffed with foie gras and potato puree, with all the finesse you’d expect from Joel Robuchon, the chef with the most Michelin stars in the world.

Sra Bua is the Bangkokian sister of Copenhagen’s Kiin Kiin, which, after David Thompson’s London restaurant Nahm (now in Bangkok), became the second restaurant in the world to receive a Michelin star for cooking Thai food. But this is modern gastronomy, making it very different from the traditional Thai cooking at Nahm. A curry might come with the texture and temperature of ice cream, and bites of lobster can be locked into gelatinous pearls that melt in your mouth with a sip of tom yam broth.

5/F, Mahanakhorn Cube, 96 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0698. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:3010:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

Lobby/F, Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. Open daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm. BTS Siam

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INTIMATE COCKTAILS A.R. SUTTON ENGINEERS SIAM

PARK SOCIETY

This colonial-inspired cocktail lounge comes from the same designer as the nearby Hot Rod. Resembling a forgotten British gentlemen’s club, it does a good job deceiving you into thinking it’s always been in its tucked away location, even if it is in a community mall. The homemade cinnamon-infused Sailor Jerry Spice Rum packs quite the punch. Live classical music on Wed, Fri, Sat and Sun from 9pm. G/F, Park Lane Ekkamai, Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai). Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Ekkamai

BAMBOO BAR Opened back in 1953, this hotel bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. Singers take the mic at 9pm daily, accompanied by music from a baby grand and surrounded by framed portraits of jazz legends who’ve passed through over the years. What’s more, the bar also does some of the best cocktails in town, whether its signature classics like the Mekhong rum-laced Thaijito or elaborate, molecular concoctions like the Raspberry Nitrogen Sorbet. 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoenkrung Soi 40 (Oriental Ave.), 02-659-9000. Open Sun-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. BTS Saphan Taksin

For a real breath of fresh air and a park view to boot, head up to the 29th floor of the super trendy Sofitel So. Inside is for fine dining on international cuisine, while out on the rooftop, it’s all about cocktails, lounge tunes and the striking view. This month’s signature cocktail is the So Inspired Mojito, which comes in lychee, mango, passion fruit and wine-berry flavors. 29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 Sathorn Rd., 02-6240000. Open daily 5-12:30pm. MRT Lumphini

VOGUE LOUNGE This cocktail bar serves more than just flawless drinks by a highly regarded Japanese mixologist. They’ve also brought onboard a Michelin-star-winning chef, Vincent Thierry, formerly of Caprice in Hong Kong, to create a menu of incredibly elegant (and equally delicious) small plates such as Tsarskaya oysters with yuzu granite and caviar ‘Imperial de Sologne’. The 1920s-inspired bar features a small indoor area dominated by plum leather, bronze and marble, while outside is a beautiful air-conditioned terrace.

A.R SUTTON

6/F, Mahanakhon Cube, Silom, Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0697. BTS Chong Nonsi VOGUE LOUNGE

VOGUE LOUNGE

PARK SOCIETY

BAMBOO BAR

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VALENTINE’S SPECIAL

JIM THOMPSON

DEVARANA SPA BANGKOK

I.SAWAN RESIDENTIAL SPA & CLUB

LAVISH COUPLES’ TREATMENTS AWAY SPA AT W BANGKOK Split into four zones, this spa’s use of soft LED lights gives it a meditative, relaxing mood with walls and treatment beds glowing softly in your choice of green, red, purple or pink. Treatments range from the signature Away Massage Metamorphosis using essential oils to nurture stress points all the way to detox treatments like a four-hands mineral scrub. The Style Lab Beauty Salon also offers grooming, manicure and pedicure services. Other facitilities include a sauna, steam room, Turkish bath, jacuzzi and VIP suite. 6/F, W Bangkok, 106 Sathorn Rd., Bangrak, 02-3444160. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

DEVARANA SPA BANGKOK This is truly one of the best spas in Bangkok for an over-the-top spa session that goes well beyond a massage. Their signature treatments include The Heavenly Nantha Garden Experience, a 2.5-hour bath, scrub and massage that combines Thai, Ayurveda and Shi-

AWAY SPA AT W BANGKOK

atsu techniques; The Harmony of Tad Si The Traditional Thai Medicine, a treatment using Thai herbal compresses and aromatic oils to relax muscles and pressure points; and the Kenya Sensory Journey, a skin-rejuvinating body scrub, wrap and oil massage with native herbs and plants. Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-636-3596. Open daily 9am-10pm. MRT Silom

THE ORIENTAL SPA As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa is set in a century-old teak house including five specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments under a holistic philosophy. Try the Oriental Signature Treatment, a 1.5-hour aromatherapy signature massage of essential oils; the Oriental Organic Journey, a 2.5-hour full-body detoxifying scrub and steam; the Herbal Wrap, an hour-long wrap using fresh herbs from Chiang Mai to target dehydrated skin, and plenty more options. Full day and half day spa packages are also available.

ALEXANDER LAMONT

I.SAWAN RESIDENTIAL SPA & CLUB When celebrated Taiwanese designer Tony Chi created this club-style hotel spa, he made one of Bangkok’s most beautiful wellness retreats. The indoor-outdoor setting feels more like a jungle resort than a city spa, featuring six residential spa cottages, nine treatment bungalows, a hair salon and a nail bar—not to mention a modern fitness center, squash and tennis courts plus a 25-meter pool. Treatments include full day ‘Retreats’, half-day ‘Escapes’, and a huge variety of facial, full-body and massage options. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am-11pm. BTS Chit Lom

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-6599000. Open daily 9am-10pm. BTS Saphan Taksin

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PERFECT GIFTS ALEXANDER LAMONT Drawing from his experiences living in both Europe and Asia, Alexander Lamont’s beautiful decor items successfully blend European techniques with the subtle mystique of Asian art. The materials, from bronze to stingray skin, are always luxurious and meticulously handcrafted by the local artisans under Alexander Lamont’s employ, ensuring that each piece of furniture is both unique and meaningful. Room L2-01/1, 2/F, Central Embassy, Ploen Chit Rd., 02-160-5772. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

OTOP HERITAGE (CENTRAL EMBASSY) One of a number of Thai craft shops under The One Tambon One Product (OTOP) brand, this store specializes in luxury items produced in Thailand. It features more than a thousand handicraft products selected from different producers around country, most of them home decorative items and fashion accessories. Other OTOP sites include OTOP The Walking Street in Silom (02-635-7061) and OTOP The Avenue (096-231-2843) in Ramintra.

CONCIERGE PICKS Bangkok’s top hotel concierges share their tips for a romantic night

Sathontip Pongpattarakun Front Office Manager, Anantara Riverside “Fire & Dine restaurant at Asiatique The Riverfront (2194, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488) is on the top of my restaurant recommendations for a romantic dinner. I personally recommend the seafood pasta in white wine sauce with miso glazed salmon, accompanied by a glass of white wine. The ambiance is great thanks to live jazz music, and you might even get a complimentary rose from the impeccably serviceminded staff.

Lersan Poonongong Concierge, JW Marriot Hotel

Mike Maitree Yaipun W Insider, W Hotel

“For a memorable experience that ties in both romance and culture, take a private dinner cruise on the River of Kings, the Chao Phraya. It provides just the right amount of time to enjoy the view while indulging in a delicious meal and after-dinner drinks. The city lit up at night, the stunning Rama 8 Bridge and immaculate glow of the Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun) all set the bar high for a very romantic evening.” See Manohra Cruise, page 25.

“If you are seeking for a romantic and unique setting to celebrate Valentine’s Day, check out Namsaah Bottling Trust (401 Silom Soi 7, 02-636-6622). The restaurant is very easy to notice thanks to its bold pink color, and you can guarantee a great dinner since it’s managed by the well-known Thai restaurant Issaya Siamese Club. Don’t forget to book your table in advance as the seats are very limited!”

4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Ploen Chit Rd., 02-1605975. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit

JIM THOMPSON The original, main store of this pioneeing Thai silk brand stocks silk clothes and accessories across its significant three floors. The space is classic and palatial, paneled with teak from wall to wall, and shows off a range of elegant silks, from pillowcases and scarves to clubby neckties. There are other branches at Jim Thompson House (a must-visit within the walking distance of BTS National Stadium) as well as various malls and five-star hotels around Bangkok. 9 Surawong Rd., 02-632-8100. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 9am-9pm.

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DINING BAA GA DIN

TODAY’S THAI FOOD

Taking good old Thai street food level to the next level, Thitid Tassanakajorn of Bangkok fine-dining hot-spot Le Du here presents modern takes on street staples amid a dining room that references rusticity and Bangkok nostalgia. Humble deep-fried chicken wings are partly deboned, pressure-cooked before frying, and served with a fermented green chili sauce and basil mayo, while crispy oysters (hoy tod) are battered with egg mousse then served with oyster mayo and

Bangkok’s best restaurants for modern local flavors, both casual and fancy.

chili puree. Warm and spacious, the place attracts large groups eager for a stiff drink to go with food to share. Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-662-3813. Open Wed-Sun 6-11pm; Mon 6-11pm

SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM ERR

CASUAL AND CONTEMPORARY SOMTUM DER ERR Not far from the bustle of Silom Road, the original branch of New York’s Michelin star-studded Somtum Der brings typical street food into a modern shop-house setting. The menu focuses on somtam (a spicy Thai papaya salad) and other classic Northeastern dishes. Not as sweet as Bangkokians usually like their somtam, the flavors here are particularly authentic. Do try the pork skewers marinated in coconut milk and the wonderful deep-fried minced pork balls. 5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am2pm, 4:30-10pm. BTS Sala Daeng/MRT Silom

SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN

Chef-couple Duangporn Songvisava and Dylan Jones, the masterminds behind one of Bangkok’s top Thai restaurants, Bo.lan (see page 12), have gone for a casual and raw look in this shop-house restaurant near the river. It focuses on small-portioned, creative Thai dishes that go well with drinks, like chicken satay with brioche, naem (Northern-style garlic and sticky rice cured pork) and the deep-fried whole-chicken skin with homemade Sriracha sauce. The bar boasts plenty of cocktails made with Thai spirits.

This is one of the best Thai restaurants in town. Cozy-yet-chic, it serves a menu based on dishes the owner’s grandmother used to cook—Thai food that borrows both from her hometown on the Eastern seaboard, Trat, and where the family now lives, Khon Kaen. Do try the moo cha muang (pork with Guttiferae tree leaves) and pla too tod (deep-fried mackerel), along with the cocktails and mocktails made with intriguing local ingredients. A second branch also just opened on Sathorn Soi 10 (see page 18) 160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7508. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm

394/35 Maharaj Rd., 02-622-2291. Open Tue-Sun 11am-midnight

The restaurant dishes out very potent (double pours, actually) original signature cocktails like the Bun Bang Fai (a mix of tequila, lime, chili, almond syrup and egg white) as well as a brief menu of perfectly executed Thai regional dishes like gaeng hang lay (Burmese pork belly curry)

SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

and pad krapao made with Australian lamb. This winning combo has seduced those seeking authentic food made with fresh, natural ingredients and served in a comfortable environment. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. Open daily 5:30pm-midnight. BTS Thong Lo

SOMTUM DER

BAA GA DIN

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MODERNISTS KHAO Chef Vichit Mukura, the long-time former head chef of Mandarin Oriental’s Sala Rim Naam, is behind this chef’s table. The restaurant serves up Thai cuisine with modern presentation and only welcomes small groups of 4-12 people each evening who can watch the chef working on classic Thai dishes like spicy salad cooked with premium ingredients such as matsusaka beef.

SRA BUA BY KIIN KIIN

64 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 098-829-8878. Open daily 6:30-11pm

LE DU A Thai chef with a degree from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) powers this inventive Asian restaurant. His dishes focus heavily on local and seasonal produce, which are prepared using modern cooking techniques to produce original and delicious food that clearly evokes Thai flavors while challenging diner’s senses. The wine list is equally exciting, with bottles sourced only from organic producers or boutique importers.

LEDU

KHAO

OSHA

399/3 Silom Soi 7, 092-919-9969. Open Mon-Sat 6-11pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

OSHA This glamorous Thai restaurant specializes in elaborately reconstructed classic dishes like tom yam soup served through a vacuum coffeemaker, green curry with spherified pearls of coconut milk, and krapao-nua (a cheap Bangkok street-food staple of beef stir-fried with holy basil) made using the finest Kagoshima wagyu from Japan. The dining room is also something to behold, with its real gold leaf-coated stairwell and custom Ramakien wallpaper. 99 Wireless Rd., 02-256-6555. Open daily 11am2:30pm, 6pm-midnight

SRA BUA BY KIIN KIIN Sra Bua is the Bangkokian sister of Copenhagen’s Michelin star-winning Kiin Kiin, and pioneered the way for Thai cuisine made using the pinnacle of modern cooking methods. See page 6 for more. Lobby/F, Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. Open daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm BTS Siam

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NIGHTLIFE

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THE NEW TRADITIONALISTS BENJARONG

BO.LAN

The food at this signature restaurant for one of Bangkok’s old-guard hotels was given a total revamp by the former head chef at Sra Bua. It’s still devoutly Thai as far as flavors, but incorporates Euopean slow-cooking methods, and is plated with modern touches. The result is highly refined but satisfyingly authentic. Dusit Thani, 946 Silom Rd., 02-200-9000-2345. Open daily 6-10pm; Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm. MRT Silom

BO.LAN

PASTE

BENJARONG

Chef couple Bo and Dylan (both formerly of David Thompson’s Michelin-starred Thai restaurant, Nahm) make all their Thai food from scratch using only the best ingredients. Their traditional style, jazzed up with modern plating, has earned them global recognition. We recommend the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes to reflect seasonal products. Bo.lan’s stylish house features dark wood and ceiling covered with kradong (flat baskets). 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2961-2. Open Tue-Sun 6-10:30pm; Sat-Sun noon-2:30pm. BTS Thong Lo

NAHM David Thompson’s Nahm serves fiery, multicourse set menus that offer devoutly authentic flavors and plenty of choice. We use the word “course” loosely, as this is true, communal Thaistyle dining. Try the salad of fresh river prawns with pork and Asian pennywort, and the balanced coconut and tumeric curry of blue swimmer crab with kanom jin (Thai rice noodles). Metropolitan, 27 Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3388. Open daily 7-10:30pm; Mon-Fri noon-2pm

PASTE (GAYSORN PLAZA) Two of Bangkok’s most-renowned modern chefs, Bongkoch Satongun and Jason Bailey, have joined forces with the aristocratic Sanitwong family, descendants of Rama II, to open this second branch of Paste. Its specialty is recipes from the Sanitwong’s ancient cook books, with an emphasis on curries. Try the gang gai gorlae (Southern Thai curry with grilled chicken), made using sous-vide, coconut-husk-smoked grilled chicken. 3/F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-6561003. Open daily noon-2pm, 6:30pm-midnight. BTS Chit Lom 12 W H E R E T H A I LAND I F EB RUA RY 2 0 1 6

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AROUND THAILAND

TASTES OF PHUKET From fine dining to local haunts, here are our

favorite restaurants on the Pearl of the Andaman.

BABA SOUL FOOD

TU KAB KHAO

XANA BEACH CLUB

BABA SOUL FOOD Sri Panwa is one of the best five-star resorts on Phuket, but its signature restaurant aims for casual-luxe with home-style Southern Thai dishes like khao tong poong pirod and lhon goong (rice crackers served with a green curry and shrimp coconut dip). The buzzword here is local, with many of the ingredients sourced from the island. Sri Panwa, 88 Moo 8, Sakdidej Rd., 076-371-000. Open daily from 6pm

BLUE ELEPHANT

GRAND EXPERIENCES BOATHOUSE WINE & GRILL The fine-dining restaurant at Boathouse resort on Kata Beach is home to the island’s most impressive wine cellar. Among the vast selection of rare bottles are many invaluable treasures rescued from the sea following the 2004 Tsunami and bearing the scars on their labels. Food-wise, the South African chef prepares classic French fare like lobster Thermidor, steak Diane and crepe suzette. 182 Koktanode Road, Kata Beach, 076-330-015 Open daily 11am-11pm

BLUE ELEPHANT This world-famous Thai restaurant group has renovated century-old Prapitak Chinpracha Sino-Portuguese mansion into the island’s premier spot for Thai fine dining. What once belonged to an affluent family is now a luxurious dining space and cooking school serving some of the best royal cuisine on the island, incorporating both Central and Southern dishes into beautiful spreads which are best enjoyed as set menus dictated by the chef. 96 Krabi Rd., Phuket Town, 076-354 355-7. Open daily 9am-10:30pm

TU KAB KHAO The team behind local Thai-fusion restaurant Table Spoon transformed a 120-yearold building into a villa-like eatery serving Southern recipes. In addition to classics such as moo hong (braised pork belly) and mee gaeng poo (crab curry with noodle), they also have handsome cocktails like the Baba-Nyonya, which plays on Peranakan culture by mixing two glasses into one drink, symbolizing the inter-marriage between Chinese men and Malay ladies. 8 Phang-nga Rd., 076-608-888. Open daily 11ammidnight

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BEACH EATS WHITE BOX At the far end of Patong, next to Kalim Beach, you’ll find this boxy all-white piece of architecture that serves as both an Italian restaurant and a lounge club. Big bay windows in the dining room offer sweeping views, while the rooftop also promises a light sea breeze. There’s the added bonus of live music and special DJs on the weekends. 247/5 Prabaramee Rd., Kalim Beach, 076-346-271. Open daily 5pm-1am

TRISARA SEAFOOD

XANA BEACH CLUB The swanky beach club features a 35-meter swim-up bar overlooking a vast stretch of Bangtao Beach and is hugged by plush red sofas, daybeds and cabanas. Head there for breakfast and lunch to enjoy fresh salads, seafood, light sandwiches and hearty burgers accompanied by DJ lounge tunes. In the evenings, the menu switches to healthy fusion fare. 10 Moo 4 Srisoonthorn Rd., Bang Tao Beach, 076324-101. Open daily 10:30am-midnight

The high-end resort setting on the quiet part of Nai Thon Beach ensures a low-key crowd, while the Mediterranean-influenced decor of bleached wood and blue fabrics belies a focus on seafood that’s caught locally. This means the food is best at its most simple, like grilled tiger prawns dressed in nothing more than Himalayan salt. 60/1 Moo 6, Srisoonthorn Rd., Naithon Beach, 076310-100. Open daily TRISARA SEAFOOD

LOCAL CLASSICS KANG ENG@PIER Though the decor was refurbished not so long ago, the makeover of this decadesold eatery overlooking Chalong Bay has left the menu untouched. That’s a good thing for its loyal following of upscale islanders addicted to the deep-fried seaweed, spicy yellow soup and plethora of fresh seafood options. 44/1 Moo 5, Viset Road, Phuket Town, 083-1731187. Open daily 10:30am-11pm

PAKNAM SEAFOOD Located in the north of Phuket Town, this open-air restaurant offers sensationally fresh Thai seafood at reasonable prices. Its popularity among locals means it can be hard to snag a table, but that shouldn’t stop you trying. Don’t miss the gaeng poo (crab curry), pad pak miang goong seab (green leaves with dry shrimp) or pla kapong nung (whole steamed fish). 52/220 Rasadanusorn Rd, Phuket Town, 081-7970474. Open daily 10:30am-10pm

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AROUND THAILAND

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

X2 RIVER KWAI

MATTHEW KENNEY CULINARY

HUA HIN RAW DEAL Heading to Bangkokian’s favorite beachside town? The wellness-minded Evason Hua Hin resort recently added “raw food” courses to its on-site activities. Aside from the cuisine, which is 100-percent vegan and if “cooked” only at low temperatures, what makes Matthew Kenney Culinary really unique is the standard of instruction and the equipment—professional chefs come from around the world to study for weeks and months here, but there are also oneand two-day classes where civilians like us can learn more about “plant-based” diets. A one-day “intro” course features nearly five hours of theory and hands on kitchen time making bright green smoothies, detoxifying salads and “pasta,” and such—tiring, but far more useful than the standard hotel cooking session where you go home with a certificate, photo and maybe an apron.

THE LATEST OPENINGS AND HAPPENINGS AROUND THE CAPITAL

9 Moo 5 Paknampran Beach, Pranburi. www.evasonresorts.com/huahin RISTR8TTO LAB

CHIANG MAI BACK TO THE LAB Coffee snobs, take note: Arnon Thitprasert, the brainchild behind Chiang Mai’s supercool Ristr8to coffee shop and a barista who competes at coffee comps around the word, has opened a second even more ambitious coffee shop in the hip Nimmanhemin area of Chiang Mai. Ristr8tto Lab focuses on cult coffee creations, showcasing Arnon’s award-winning skills from various competitions. We recommend the alcohollaced brews, like the Ethiopian Monkey, in which a perfectly prepared hot mocha is blended with Creme de Menthe. Between Nimmanhemin soi 3 and 5, 053-215-278. Open daily 7:08am-6:08pm

THE CANOPY WALKWAY

WILD WALK The people behind Chiang Mai’s Queen Sirikit Botanical Garden have unveiled their latest project, a bridge which will take your nature walks to dizzying new heights. Literally. The Canopy Walkway is a 20-something-meter-high and 400-meter-long bridge that stretches across the Mae Rim rainforest. Hikers are rewarded with stunning 360-degree views of the surrounding greenery and mountains. Scared of heights? Rest assured, the bridge is constructed from heavy-duty metal mesh. Queen Sirikit Botanical Garden, 100 Moo 9, Mae Rim. www.qsbg.org

KANCHANABURI CABIN FEVER There’s no better way to stay at Kanchanaburi than on a luxurious raft floating on the historic River Kwai—and these new offerings from X2 River Kwai resort are the most impressive we’ve seen. Each 65-sq-meter XFloat Cabin is made from environmentallyfriendly rubberwood boards and comes with fish tank-style floor-to-ceiling windows that look out over the calm Kanchanaburi countryside. An upper deck (dubbed the “moon deck”) allows you to make the most of the clear, starry sky. Despite being on the water, the cabins aren’t short on quality and share the same amenities as their land counterparts, including luxury bathtub, Bose soundsystem, Wi-Fi and premium king bed. 138 Moo 4, Nongya, Kanchanaburi. x2resorts.com/resorts/river-kwai

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FEBRUARY 2015 | BANGKOK

UPPER SILOM Silom Road starts at Lumphini Park and stops just one block short of the Chao Phraya River. The road’s first half is notorious for Soi Patpong, a collection of go-go bars and fake watch stalls. But the bottom half has recently undergone a revival, with a host of edgy bars and restaurants joining the area’s long-standing galleries.

SUPANNIGA SATHORN 10

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 18 UPPER SILOM

20 CHAROENKRUNG

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UPPER SILOM Y SPOTLIGHT

@1 Bangkok

Art Galleria

Head to floors 4 and 5 of Bangkok’s jewelry trading hub, the Jewelry Trade Center, for four of the city’s best galleries. 919/1 Silom Soi 19. 02-630-0979

Tang Contemporary Art With its two branches in China, this institution is Bangkok’s top dog when it comes to modern ChineseThai art. 02-630-1114. Open Tue-Sat 11am-7pm

NEW

CVN

LUKA

Thanon Pan is a leafy street running from the Hindu temple on Silom to the Myanmar Embassy on Sathorn. It’s close to that end that you’ll find Luka, a cafe with a focus on light fare (salads, sandwiches) and coffee that’s fast becoming a favorite with Sathorn’s busy professionals. On the menu is down-to-earth comfort food like breakfast burrito; grilled cheese sandwich served with a thick tomato soup; and “sloppy meatball sandwich” with fresh mozzarella, roasted garlic, sweet marinara and a brioche bun. Sauces, juices and pickles are homemade, while the produce comes from reputable local names like Adams Organic, the Royal Project Foundation and Sloane’s.

CVN is more of an art dealer, so no rotating exhibitions here. Bring a few million baht for a Thawan Duchanee, but prices start from much lower than that. 02-630-2251. Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm

@3 Casa Pagoda, 64/1 Pan Rd., 02-637-8558. Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat-Sun 8:30-7pm. BTS Surasak

CULTURE One of Silom’s most colorful landmarks, 1 Mahamariamman Temple (Wat Khaek) (between Pan Rd. and Silom Soi 17, 02-238-4007) feels more like it belongs in India than downtown Bangkok. Built during the 19th century by Tamil immigrants, it is one of the main non-Buddhist places of worship in the capital. The area is also bustling with galleries. Just around the corner, Manit Sriwanichpoom’s 2 Kathmandu Photo

Gallery (87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700) is Bangkok’s preeminent photography gallery. Its exhibitions focus on social issues, urbanization and the country’s photographic heritage—well worth a regular visit. Nearby, 3 H Gallery (201 Sathorn Soi 12, 085-021-5508) is set in a beautiful, late-19th century, wooden building where Brian Curtin curates exhibitions by emerging contemporary Asian artists. Also visit the Jewelry Trade Center (see right) which is home to some of the city’s best galleries.

LUNCH AND COFFEE

KATHMANDO PHOTO GALLERY

4 Blue Elephant (233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353) is one of the most established Thai restaurants in town, serving authentic royal Thai cuisine from a beautiful old house. Nearby, 5 Supanniga offers a more relaxed take on no-less-authentic Thai cuisine, drawing in a hip local clientele

that belies the affordable prices. Lessformal is the wonderfully idiosyncratic 6 Foo Mui Kee (10-12 Prachum Rd., 02-234-6648), an 80-year-old shophouse restaurant serving Western dishes with a distinctly Chinese influence. For some good coffee and a fuss-free meal, head over to 7 Rocket (149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-635-0404), a cafe that keeps things simple with omelets, homemade granola and salami and cheese focaccia sandwiches, or check out the new Luka Cafe near Wat Khaek (see above). Our pick for delicious Thai street food is Wat Khaek Market (see box, opposite).

HEALTH AND WELLNESS Located inside the W Bangkok hotel is the vibrant 8 Away Spa (6/F, W Bangkok, 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-3444160), a swanky spa with a dim, labyrinthine halls lit with LED lights to provide a relaxing and playful mood.

Number1 Gallery Young and fresh, with a selection of exciting emerging artists, this gallery’s price tags in the tens of thousands remain reasonable. 02-630-2523. Open daily 11am-7pm

Thavibu Gallery Representing big names like Vasan Sithiket and Navin Rawanchaikul, Thavibu is another highly-regarded gallery. 02-266-5454. Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm

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EXPLORING

UPPER SILOM food and strong cocktails in a charming 100-year-old house. The area is also home to plenty of upscale options, among them !3 The House on Sathorn (106 Sathorn Rd., 02344-4000), one of the hottest new tables in town, !4 Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant (37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02-238-1991) and even !6 L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon (5/F, 02-001-0698) by the chef with the most Michelin stars in the world. For drinks and casual bites, head to Sathorn soi 10-12, which is thriving with new bars including !7 Le Cafe des Stagiaires (142/21 Sathorn Soi 12, 081-207-3077) and !8 Revolucion (50 Sathorn Soi 10, 02235-4823), or head up to the rooftop Vogue Lounge (6/F, Mahanakhon Cube, Silom, Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0697) where the former chef of Hong Kong’s Caprise creates delicate sharing plates to go with wonderful cocktails. For later nights, check out !9 Ku De Ta (39/F, Sathorn Square Complex, 02-108sot ha OBangkok branch of Asia’s 2000), tthe Put high-end clubbing brand, or the colonial Shanghai-themed @0 Maggie Choo’s (UG/F, Novotel Fenix Silom, 02-635-6055).

The spa specializes in treatments ranging from massages to detox. For a more traditional setting, head over to 9Health Land (120 Sathorn Rd., 02-637-8880) for their popular traditional Thai whole-body or foot massage.

DRINKS AND DINING The Silom area is home to some of Bangkok’s best restaurants. !0 Lady Brett (149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-6350405) has a cozy wooden-tiled vibe inspired by 20th century taverns, and a menu of simple barbecue dishes; !1Le Du (399/3 Silom Soi 7, 092-919-9969) is an inventive restaurant powered by a young Thai chef; and next door’s !2Namsaah Bottling Trust (401 Silom Soi 7, 02-636-6622) offers whimsical takes on Asian comfort

LADY BRETT

Wat Khaek Market

The fresh market nestled by the Mahamariamman Temple is a popular

place for locals and expats to grab breakfast, lunch and dinner. Here, you’ll find basic Thai street dishes such as som tam (spicy papaya salad), moo-ping (grilled pork on a stick), noodle soup and Muslim curries. @2 Silom Rd., between soi 20 and 22. Open daily 6am-late

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9 Health Land !0 Lady Brett !1 Le Du !2 Namsaah Bottling Trust !3 The House on Sathorn !4 Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaruant !5 Vogue Lounge !6 L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon

!7 Le Cafe des Stagiaires !8 Revolucion !9 Ku De Ta @0 Maggie Choo’s @1 Jewelry Trade Center @2 Wat Khaek Market @3 Luka

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CHAROENKRUNG Y CHAROENKRUNG’S

TOP 5 STREET-FOOD STALLS

!8 Kao Kha Mu Charoen Sang Silom This famous (and crowded) spot serves Chinese-style stewed pork knuckle with rice. Come early before it sells out. 02-234-8036. Open daily 8:30am1:30pm

!9 Jok Prince Bangrak

NEW

One of the best congee (rice porridge) in Bangkok—a simple but powerful blend of velvety stewed rice, minced pork and poached egg.

CIAO TERRAZZO

Italian cuisine courtesy of one of Bangkok’s most lauded chefs, a riverside alfresco terrace and the Mandarin Oriental’s iconic Author’s Lounge in the background make this one of the Chao Phraya River’s most easy-to-recommend spots. It’s more casual than the other restaurants at Bangkok’s oldest, most formal hotel (though they’ll still shoo you away if you turn up in shorts), dishing out Italian staples like pappardelle with tender Ferrara-style spare rib stew as well as wood-fired pizzas.

089-795-2629. Open daily 6am12pm, 4pm-9pm

!1 Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Charoenkrung Soi 40, Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. Open daily 6-10:30pm. BTS Saphan Taksin

@0 Prachak Pet Yang

Rumored to have existed for over a century, this place specializes in khao na pet (roasted duck with rice)

tretching along the Eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River, the 150-year-old Charoenkrung Road winds its way through some of the city’s major cultural hubs, from the heritage buildings of upper Silom (see page 20-21) to the delicious street-food institutions of Chinatown. Thanks to a recent revival of the neighborhoood’s old shop-houses, you’ll also discover a bevvy of cool new bars and art galleries hidden down back streets.

HERITAGE WALK The area between sois 34-44 is rich with architectural attractions. Among them is the 1 Old Customs House (Charoenkrung Soi 36), which dates back to 1880 and was once the trading gateway between Bangkok and the rest of the world. It’s now used as

GENERAL POST OFFICE

the fire brigade’s headquarters. The recently renovated 2 General Post Office building next to Charoenkrung Soi 34 is another unique part of Bangkok’s architectural heritage, and one of the few Art Deco buildings to be found in the city. Religious highlights include the Thai-Chinese 3 Wat Suan Phlu temple (Charoenkrung Soi 42/1), where you can go and pay respect to the Chinese deity Guanyin, and 4 Assumption Cathedral (Charoenkrung Soi 40), a Roman Catholic church dating back to the early 1900s that serves as the place of worship for the Catholic all-boys’ school Assumption College. There’s also a strong Muslim community based around the 5 Haroon Mosque

02-234-3755. Open daily 7am8:30pm

ASSUMPTION CATHEDAL

(Charoenkrung Soi 36). Once the city’s largest wooden mosque, it has since been reconstructed in concrete but remains in keeping with traditional Islamic design.

GALLERIES There are three worthwhile galleries in the 6 O.P. Garden compound (4, 6 Charoenkrung Soi 36, 02-266-0186). The oldest among them is Serindia Gallery (02-238-6410), founded in 2009 by publisher and art enthusias-

JAO LONG LUK CHIN PLA

@1 Jao Long Luk Chin Pla & Jae Lee Luk Chin Pla Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are renowned for their noodles and fish balls. Both are great. Jao Long Luk Chin Pla 02-234-7499. Open daily 6am-9pm Jae Lee Luk Chin Pla 02-234-2791. Open daily 8am-9pm

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EXPLORING

CHAROENKRUNG sic cuisine is still hard to beat. At the same hotel, check out the riverside terrace Ciao Terrazzo for something more casual (see opposite). For a refined Cantonese experience under dripping

made from reclaimed slabs of teak. Though purchasing a table will set you back a six-figure sum, it’s worth dropping by purely for the spectacle, as well as to peer into next door’s !3 Fifty-Five Antiques (02-267-2297), which has some of the most impressive ancient Burmese artefacts in the city. Thanks to the many luxury hotels that line the riverbank, this is one of the best areas in Bangkok for high-end dining. The city’s oldest and, by our reckoning, most atmospheric hotel, the !1 Mandarin Oriental, is home to Le Normandie, which for years set the standard for French fine dining in Bangkok. Its combination of old-school silver service and immaculately plated clas-

SAMBAL

chandeliers, check out Shang Palace at the !4 Shangri-La Hotel, (Charoenkrung Soi 44, 02-236-7777) where you’ll find a la carte dim sum as well as other Chinese favorites like Peking duck and whole suckling pig. In the same hotel, Volti is a stylish option for Italian cuisine, while !5 Sambal at the Royal Orchid Sheraton is a more laidback riverside venue that serves Southeast Asian cuisine with contemporary touches. Also see our pick of Charoenkrung’s best street food eats opposite.

SHOPPING

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1 Old Customs House 2 General Post Office 3 Wat Suan Phlu Temple 4 Assumption Cathedral 5 Haroon Mosque 6 O.P. Garden - Serindia Gallery - Modern Gallery - Artha Gallery 7 Speedy Grandma 8 Soy Sauce Factory 9 River City !0 O.P. Place !1 Mandarin Oriental Hotel - Lotus Marie - France Van Damme - Le Normandie - Bamboo Bar - Ciao Terrazzo !2 P. Tendercool !3 Fifty-Five Antiques !4 Shangri-La Hotel - Shang Palace - Volti !5 Royal Orchid Sheraton (Sambal) !6 Soulbar !7 Viva & Aviv !8 Kao Kha Mu Charoen Sang Silom !9 Jok Prince Bangrak @0 Prachak Pet Yang @1 Jao Long Luk Chin Pla & Jae Lee Luk Chin Pla Rd.

The area is well-known for antiques and gemstones, as well as shipping services to help bring your goods home. 9 River City (Charoenkrung Soi

34, 02-237-0077) is a one-stop shopping complex that offers Thai craft, antiques and artwork by local artists. For fine fashion and decorative objects, !0 O.P. Place (Charoenkrung Soi 38, 02-237-4062) is filled with tailor shops, jewelry specialists and Thai handicraft souvenirs from The Chitralada Projects. It’s also worth taking a look at the historic !1 Mandarin Oriental hotel (Charoenkrung Soi 38, 02659-9000), where there are several high-end jewelry and fashion brands including Lotus Arts de Vivre (02236-0400) and Hong Kong-based resort-wear specialist Marie France Van Damme (02-630-9400). Tucked away in a complex of WWII-era warehouses, you’ll find the by-appointmentonly showroom of !2 P.Tendercool (02266-4344), which sells striking tables

Opened back in 1953 but given a stunning renovation not too long ago2, the Mandarin Oriental’s !1 Bamboo Bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. To this day, it maintains a moody, lounge-lizard atmosphere made even better thanks to some of the city’s best cocktails (try the barrel-aged XO Sazerac). !6 Soulbar (945 Charoenkrung Rd., 083-092-2266) offers live music of a very different sort, in a casual shophouse kitted out with industrial furnishings. Located right by the Chao Phraya River, !7 Viva & Aviv (B/F, River City Shopping Complex, 23 Yotha Rd, 02639-6305) is an open-air cocktail bar with a subtle (and chic) pirate theme.

LE NORMANDIE

Rd.

tic Shane Suvikapakornkul. The gallery focuses on Asian cultural artefacts, specifically from the Himalayan region. Next door, Modern Gallery (02-2386449) features work by revered Thai artists like Thawan Duchanee and Chalermchai Kositpipat along with the new generation like Lolay Thaweesak Sritongdee. Right opposite, French gallerist Pascal Billieres’ Artha Gallery (02-630-9489) aims to promote rising Southeast Asian artists from Thailand, Myanmar and Vietnam. If you’re looking for something more edgy, head down to Charoenkrung Soi 28. 7 Speedy Grandma (089-508-3859) is a big favorite of Bangkok’s alt-indie crowd thanks to its regular exhibitions, film screenings and parties. Nearby, 8 Soy Sauce Factory (061-835-6824) is run by the same group of people and focuses on photography exhibitions.

DINING

Surasakg

SPEEDY GRANDMA

NIGHTLIFE

GETTING THERE

Getting to this part of Charoenkrung is easy. Simply take the BTS (Silom line) to Saphan Taksin station. From there you can either explore Charoenkrung by foot or take one of the free hotel boats that shuttle guests from Saphan Taksin pier.

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ThewhereGuide FEBRUARY 2016 | BANGKOK

NEW

THE COMMONS

Good food takes center stage at this loft-like, open-plan new community mall where you can try some of Bangkok’s best-praised restaurants and artisanal food producers in one spot. Highlights include: Soulfood 555, a Thai-fusion restaurant specializing in classic local dishes turned into burgers; Peppina, a pizzeria where all the pies are made according to the toughest Neapolitan standards; and Roots cafe, one of the city’s top coffee roasters. 335 Thonglor Soi 17, 089-152-2677

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 23 DINING 26 NIGHTLIFE

28 SHOPPING 29 HEALTH & WELLNESS

30 ATTRACTIONS 31 ART

32 NAVIGATE

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GUIDE

DINING NEW

BAA GA DIN

Taking good ol’ Thai street food level to the next level, Thitid Tassanakajorn of Bangkok fine-dining hot-spot Le Du here presents modern takes on street staples amid a dining room that references rusticity and Bangkok nostalgia. Humble deep-fried chicken wings are partly deboned, pressure-cooked before frying, and served with a fermented green chili sauce and basil mayo, while crispy oysters (hoy tod) are battered with egg mousse then served with oyster mayo and chili puree. Warm and spacious, the place attracts large groups eager for a stiff drink to go with food to share. Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-662-3813. Open Wed-Sun 6-11pm; Mon 6-11pm

Y SPOTLIGHT

Hot Spots AL FRESCO DINING

MANOHRA

This intimate cruise on a restored old rice barge offers two Thai set dinner packages: Gold comprises 12 Thai dishes and Silver eight dishes. Expect to try classic Thai fare like tom yum kung (spicy prawn soup with herbs and lime juice) and massaman nong kai (chicken massaman curry), while enjoying beautiful views of Wat Pho and Wat Arun. Finish your meal with scrumptious Thai desserts like khao niew mamoung (sweet mango with sticky rice). Cocktails are available.

KRAM

Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa, 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-477- 0770

Kram does simple Thai comfort food in a house filled with plants and reclaimed wood. The adorable outdoor area is filled with bean bags, picnic-style seating and hanging light bulbs, with movies projecting onto the wall. The kitchen serves up intriguing Thai dishes including gaeng kua poo bai chaploo (curry with crabmeat and wild betel leaf), pla rak gluay pad prik khing (stir-fried horseface loach with chili paste) and woonsen dork kajorn pad khai (stir-fried glass noodles with cowslip creeper).

Blue Elephant

113 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-258-8170. Open Tue-Fri 11am-2:30pm; Tue-Thu 5:30-10pm; Sat-Sun 11am11pm; Fri 5:30-11pm

MANOHRA

SALA RATTANAKOSIN EATERY & BAR

It might be a boutique hotel, but half of this four-story renovated shop-house is dedicated to wining and dining in full view of the riverside’s star attraction, Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn). Pull up a seat on the outdoor terrace to feast on a menu that goes down two routes: one, elegantly plated Thai classics and regional specialties; the other, Western bistro food like crispy pork belly and tuna tatare. For us though, the highlight is its rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping a great selection of cocktails.

The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts. Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavors. While more modern Thai restaurants have lately grabbed most column inches, Blue Elephant is still worth a visit for both atmosphere and food.

Sala Rattanakosin Hotel, Maharaj Rd., 02-622-1388. Open daily 7-10:30am, 11am-4:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm

233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak SALA RATTANAKOSIN

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TASTE OF THE CITY

DINING HONG KONG Recent Openings

MEATLICIOUS

Gaggan Anand of Asia’s best restaurant opens on Ekkamai with something completely different. 8 Ekkamai Soi 6, 091-698-6688. BTS Ekkamai

WARM WOOD CAFE

A cozy little cafe on the corner of Thonglor Soi 10 that certainly lives up to its name. 137/1 Thonglor Soi 10, 02-714-9974.

ORGANIKA

The Thai spa brand unveil a cafe that’s a white-washed, botanical haven. 6/F, Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-6651899. BTS Phrom Phong

Advertise your business with us starting from B5,000

SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

One of Bangkok’s most reliably delicious Thai restaurants opens a second branch. 28, Sathorn Soi 10, 02-714-7508.

Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Credit card payment accepted.

24 W H E R E T H A I LAND I DECEMBER 2 0 1 1 I www.wheretraveler.com

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GUIDE

DINING FIVE GREAT STREET FOOD STALLS IN CHINATOWN

RED SKY

The 55th-floor view from Centara’s rooftop puts this bar in the same league as high flyers like Vertigo at the Banyan Tree. Al fresco dining and drinking takes place under a swooping, red-lit arch looking out over downtown Bangkok. Chef Hugo Coudurier prepares a menu focused on high-quality French ingredients, best enjoyed with a drop from the hotel’s notably excellent wine cellar.

55/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Siam

ABOVE ELEVEN

PA JIN COCKLE

ABOVE ELEVEN

This bar and restaurant doesn’t just have great views of the city going for it; there’s also an adventurous menu of Japanese-Peruvian fusion (aka Nikkei) cuisine. Small plates like acebichado rolls (seabass, ika karage, avocado) and skewers of anticucho beef heart are bettered only by their signature cocktails. Note that if you’re sitting at the bar you’ll have your back to the skyline, so it’s worth booking a table in advance. RED SKY

33/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Nana

JAE AUAN BUA LOY NAAM KHING

Guay Tiew Kua Gai This gem, very well-known among locals, is hidden in a tiny alley and run by an old couple who have been serving one of the best guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken) for decades. Yaowarat Soi 6. Open Wed-Mon, 7pm-1am

T&K Seafood and R&L Seafood, Soi Texas Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are known for their fresh seafood dishes at reasonable prices. Try the steamed seabass in lime juice and the spicy tom yum goong (spicy and sour Thai prawn soup). Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd. Open daily 6pm-1am

Pa Jin Cockle This place has been specializing in soft-boiled cockles and mussels for over 35 years. The sour and spicy dipping sauce here is also to die for, but if spicy isn’t your thing, there is also a sweet option. Soi Phadungdao, Yaowarat Rd., Open daily Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1am, Sun 5pm-1am

Guay Jub Ouan Pochana Located in front of an old-school cinema, this peppery pork belly rolled-noodle soup specialist is always swarming with a crowd of people, so don’t be surprised if you end up sharing a table with strangers. Yaowarat Rd., corner of Soi 11. Open daily 7pm-late

Jae Auan Bua Loy Naam Khing This bua loy naam khing (sesame dumplings with ginger tea) vendor has been serving the popular Chinese dessert for over 20 years. Apart from the bestselling original sesame and ginger combination, there are also taro dumplings and tofu pudding. Not a fan of ginger? Swap it for the sweetened milk instead. Yaowarat Rd., 081-860-1053, 081-612-5700. Open Tue- Sun 7-11.30pm

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NIGHTLIFE NEW

POP@BAD

The fourth floor of Badmotel, a long-time favorite Thonglor nightspot, has been injected with some serious Andy Warhol vibes for a pop-up bar running till Feb 28. The colorful paintjob comes courtesy of up-andcoming street artists October 29, while a neon-lit Campbell’s Soup can installation is a particularly nice touch. The music is mostly hip-hop and old-school R’n’B, with some live acoustic sets during the early hours on Tue and Fri-Sat. Drinks are fuss-free and well-priced: Singha on tap and Jameson by the bottle. It’s probably the only rooftop bar in Thonglor to sell local spirit Sangsom, too. 4/F, Badmotel, 331/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-712-7288. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-1:30am

Hot Spots BEST THAI-STYLE DRINKS

TEP BAR

WOO BAR

Step inside W Bangkok’s main lobby to discover this achingly hip bar with its crisp white leather couches, violet lighting and jetset clientele. The signature cocktails make use of gastronomic techniques (think infusions and fermentation), such as the luxurious-looking Chor Muang (butterfly flower infused in raspberry vodka, lime juice and syrup served with a butterfly flower dipped in 24k gold dust) or the Chatuchak Ice Tea, a spin-off of the classic Long Island featuring Thai tea instead of coke and topped with foam to give the impression of a traditional street-side foamy tea. Lobby/F, W Bangkok, 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-3444000. Opens daily 9am-midnight. BTS Chong Nonsi

WOO BAR

TEP BAR

Playing on Thai tradition while not pandering to tourist cliches, the bar draws in the same cool crowd as its Chinatown neighbors thanks to a blend of classic Central region music, Thai tapas and home-infused ya-dong (Thai herbal whiskey). Grab a free plate of sweet rice crackers with chili jam and knock back their set of three ya-dong shots, or go for one of the fruity ya-dong cocktails for something smoother on the palate. The bar also serves wines made from Thai fruits such as mangosteen and passion fruit.

‘

Y SPOTLIGHT

Room 69-71, Soi Nana, 098-467-2944. Opens Tue-Thu 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sun 5pm-1am. MRT Hua Lamphong

LET THE BOY DIE

Bangkok is awash with craft beer bars, but this is the one spot where you can break away from the American bottled import mainstays and find something really exciting: local brews, by the bottle and on tap. Architect-turned-brewer Pieak Pipattanaphon of Golden Coins brewery runs the spot, aided by another top dog of Bangkok’s homebrew scene. Together they host regular live music and serve a short list of classic pub grub amid rustic-meetsindoor-garden décor.

Sing Sing Prolific Bangkok-based Aussie designer Ashley Sutton (Maggie Choo’s, Iron Fairies) expresses his Chinoiserie fetish here in a Hollywood vision of 1930s Shanghai that’s all lanterns, red lighting and elaborate metal screens. The petite dance floor acts as a hub for a network of mezzanines, sunken bars and Sutton’s trademark warren of secret passages leading to single-table balconies and speakeasy-style backrooms. Look for the drinks containing Iron Balls, Sutton’s own gin. Sukhumvit Soi 45 (next to Quince), 097-285-6888. Open daily 8pm-2am. BTS Phrom Phong

542 Luang Rd., 082-675-9673. Opens Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight

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NIGHTLIFE

STUDIO LAM

The shining light of the super-hip Sukhumvit Soi 51 neighborhood pairs global beats with home-brewed ya-dong. We like to drink it straight, but if you’re not ready for that then go for the tamarind cocktail (a mix of tamarind-infused ya-dong, aloe vera juice and passion fruit syrup). The space is run by Maft Sai, a local DJ known across the world for popularizing mo lam (Thai country music), and you can always expect something good to be pumping from the giant tube sound system.

BEST GAY CLUBS Why Bangkok is Southeast Asia’s gay party hub. Fake Club

Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. BTS Thong Lo

WTF

This intimate hipster bar just steps from Studio Lam (ssee above) whips up drinks like the savory yet sweet Tee Yai (tequila, lime, chili-cinnamon syrup, Thai hot sauce, orange bitters) and refreshing Isaan Caipiroska (rice spirit, vodka, tamarind juice and lime). Head there early to ensure a table, or be content to stand around outside with the rest of the crowd. Also be sure to head upstairs and check out the rotating art exhibitions. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. BTS Thong Lo

DJ STATION

DJ Station

Sundays at Maggie Choo’s

The grand dame of gay clubbing never gets old. Packed to the point of making dancing near impossible on weekends, DJ Station has come to define Thailand’s gay nightlife. The place is three stories tall. Most of the dancing takes place on the ground, with some guys going shirtless on stage. On the second floor, things are noticeably more cruise-y and boozy.

Evoking the decadence of opium dens and steamy exoticism, this bewitching bar hosts its weekly gay night every Sunday when topless hunks with rock-hard six packs replace the beautiful ladies in cheongsam dresses on the swings. Expect to laugh all night long when local drag sensation Pangina Heals takes the stage.

Silom Soi 2, 02-266-4029. Open daily 10pm-2am. BTS Sala Daeng

This legendary gay club made a comeback last year after its original venue closed down. The added mega facelift includes a huge dance floor and world-class audio equipment. Enter the towering, neon-lit entrance and you’ll be greeted with opulent decor and tacky disco balls. Entertainment includes a live house band, oneoff gigs and male model stage shows. 222/32, Ratchadaphisek Rd., 091724-2999. Open daily 9pm-2am

The Stranger Bar and Lounge Tucked inside the vibrant Silom Soi 4, this two-story sit-down bar boasts fun-themed cocktails and attracts a modern, younger gay crowd. Although small in size, the bar is big in personality, with its glittery decor and sassy beats. Silom Soi 4, 084-711-6477. Open daily 5:30pm-2am. BTS Sala Daeng

U/F, Novotel Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 091-772-2144. Gay nights are every Sunday 7:30pm-2am

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BANGKOK

SHOPS+SERVICES NEW

CARNIVAL

This multi-label store’s latest branch invites you to drop by and sip a coffee from local experts Brave Roasters as you peruse the collection of collectible kicks and other streetwear. The white-washed venue focuses exclusively on sneakers from Nike, Adidas and Vans, with some special limited editions, too. The apparel and accessories shelf stocks brands like Atmos, Nike and Californian streetwear brand Publish as well as shoe cleaner kits from Jason Markk. Siam Square Soi 7 (next to Hard Rock Cafe), 02252-4215, 081-173-4560. Open daily noon-9pm. BTS Siam

Hot Spots

BEST MULTI-LABEL STORES

NEXT TO NORMAL

This multi-label store features fashion and lifestyle products from a long list of global fashion brands such as Ashbury, Thom Browne, Maison Kitsune, Undercover and Clover Canyon. By mixing and matching products from the diverse pool of labels found in its sleek and modern store, Next to Normal encourages its customers to get a bit more adventurous with their looks and get with the latest catwalk trends. Room Atrium Zone, 1/F, Central World, 74/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-646-1847. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chit Lom

Stocked from top to bottom with a staggering number of menswear, womenswear, shoes and denim brands, American Rag Cie, located right by CentralWorld’s futuristic annex, Groove, is the first branch of the American multibrand store to open in Southeast Asia. Head straight to the shop’s World Denim Bar area, which offers quality denim products from well-known brands such as Paige, BLK DNM, and J Brand.

GIN & MILK

Offering a selection of menswear from brands like Meticulous, Pattara and Pattric Boyle in a lavish, European-styled store, Gin & Milk is for the dapper man wanting to look his smartest. Specializing in dressy and vintage fashion, the store even has a tailor corner for anyone looking for custom-made suits without braving the shops along Sukhumvit Road.

ZETTINO

This brand’s passport wallets in warm shades of leather and suede say wellheeled, creative traveler, while the messenger bags and cross-body briefcases make for perfectly constructed casual work-wear. Though the look and feel of everything in this cool leatherware store might speak of Italy, it is in fact all Thai, which means prices that belie the quality of the products. You’ll also find stylish handbags for women, available in brown or vanilla. Online shopping is also available at www. zettino.com.

Mahatun Plaza, 888 Phloen Chit Rd., 088-9505564. BTS Phloen Chit

AMERICAN RAG CIE

1/F, Groove, CentralWorld, 999/9 Rama 1 Rd. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chit Lom

Y SPOTLIGHT

3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000 (1376). Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam

STATEMENT

Cult brands and the very best local brands take center-stage in this ultra-chic multilabel store. Its specialty is women’s clothing—from sporty looks and monochrome workwear to glamorous party styles—but guys will find some cool accessories too. Local labels to look out for include Pin & Tux, Ensemble, Anaman and Coralist swimwear. The store is also home to a health-conscious cafe serving coffee, cold-pressed juice and a variety of fruit and granola bowls.

Thonglor Soi 11, 02-003-6973. Open Sun-Thu 11am10pm; Fri-Sat 11am-midnight

ASIATIQUE THE RIVERFRONT The first shopping center to sit on the riverbank is themed according to the city’s architecture of old. It includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashion and intriguing souvenirs, as well as a variety of eateries, beer gardens and wine bars. The gigantic venue is also home to a ferris wheel, restaurants and stage shows. We recommend the seafood at Baan Khanitha. Asiatique the Riverfront, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488

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HEALTH + WELLNESS

ORGANIKA Nineteenth-century botanical gardens inspire this cleansing, plant-life filled spa dripping with colonial charm. Amid plenty of natural light and soothing wooden walls, guests can pick from full body massages in Thai, Swedish, crystal stone, deep tissue, and many more styles as well as facials, foot massages and mask and scrub therapy to enjoy in the spa’s natural vibe. Stay for lunch at the on-site cafe specializing in healthy cuisine. 6/F, Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49. 02-665-1899. Open daily 10am-9pm

Hot Spots WHERE TO GET A GREAT THAI MASSAGE

HEALTH LAND

Y SPOTLIGHT

Set in a grand, Thai-style building in front of Ekkamai Soi 10, this is considered one of the best spas in Bangkok thanks to its clean facilities, well-trained staff and wallet-friendly prices. A two-hour traditional Thai massage is also at a reasonable price, accounting for its local popularity. Unlike most street-side massage shops, its Thai massages are done in private rooms. They also have another branch at Sathorn Soi 10. 96/1 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-392-2233. Open daily 9am-midnight

WAT PHO

Located next to the Grand Palace, this is one of the oldest temples in Bangkok, home to the 43-meter-long reclining Buddha and credited as the birthplace of Thai massage. The temple massage school still runs today, meaning visitors can get some of the most authentic massage anywhere in the city. They also run short courses for anyone who’d like to learn for themselves.

MYTH

Its massages are heavily influenced by the Wat Pho school—credited as the birthplace of Thai massage—and are performed using their own blend of essential oils. The modern-rustic decor could come straight from a fivestar hotel, but the prices are much more down-toearth, while the main treatment room is arranged in the traditional, Thai-style communal format. There’s also a delightful alfresco bar, a boutique selling Thai-made textiles, and a private fortunetelling service.

28/3 Soi Ruam Rudi, 02-651-5600-1. Open daily noon-midnight. BTS Phloen Chit

Sanam Chai Rd., 02-255-4771. Open daily 8am6pm

OASIS SPA

Set in a stylish compound, this spa’s cool white exterior gives way to 15 treatment rooms decorated in a Thai Lanna style. The King of Oasis is best suited to men and features a twohour hot Thai herbal muscle compress and a hot oil massage. Ladies can opt for the two-hour Queen of Oasis, which blends Swedish and aromatherapy massages. They also have other a la carte and package treatments for hair, body and face. 64 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-262-2122. Open daily 10am-10pm

Dermaster Housed in a 2,000-sq-meter compound and operated by a board of certified plastic surgeons, Dermaster is recognized as one of Bangkok’s best aesthetic institutions. The vast compound houses four separate beauty centers offering everything from cosmetic surgery to wellness procedures. Facial treatments include Derma Frax laser therapy, while the non-surgical “Self Re-boost” treatment promises to rejuvinate your skin. For a quick revitalizing treatment, try the non-invasive 60-minute Aura Bright facial. 342 Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 085-047-4466. Open daily 9am-8pm

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ATTRACTIONS BOUNCE THAILAND At Asia’s biggest trampoline park, you can bounce about in a giant room packed with 80 interconnecting trampolines—whether it’s for serious exercise or simply to have some fun. The Free Jumping zone lets you ping around at leisure or practice some pro moves, while the Bounce Fit zone shows you just about the most fun way possible to keep in shape. Kids can join too (aged three and above), with the Mini Bounce Zone offering a safe environment for them to play. 5/F, The St. Ratchada, New Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-014-2446. Open daily 10am-10pm. MRT Thailand Cultural Centre

Hot Spots MUSEUMS TO EXPLORE

BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM

Tucked away in the bustling Asoke area is a beautiful Thai house that was given to the Siam Society under Royal Patronage in 1963. The museum specializes in exhibits of traditional rural Thai life, mainly Nothern Lanna culture, and displays artifacts such as farming tools, weaving looms and pest traps made from bamboo and rattan.

This compound of four wooden houses dating back to 1937 offers a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of an upper-class Bangkok family. The different buildings are filled with elegant furniture and ornaments from the Rattanakosin era and the reign of King Rama V (1868-1910), and make for a charming few hours’ exploration, as do the well-maintained gardens kept cool by the river breeze.

Charoenkrung Soi 43, 02-233-7027. Open Wed-Sun 10am-4pm

KAMTHIENG HOUSE MUSEUM

Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-661-6470. Open Tue-Sat 9am-5pm SUAN PAKKAD

SUAN PAKKAD

Y SPOTLIGHT

Opened to the public in 1952 by its former royal residents, this complex of eight houses dating back to 1952 was Thailand’s first public museum. It showcases sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period that belonged to Prince and Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga, as well as artifacts from the collection of King Chulalongkorn’s son.

352-354 Sri Ayutthaya Rd., 02-246-1775-6 ext 229. Open daily 9am-4pm. BTS Phaya Thai

BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM

QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM OF TEXTILES

Located right next to the Grand Palace, this museum tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand. Highlights include the queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading international designers. Entry fee is included in the Grand Palace fee. If you only want to visit this museum, it’s B150 per person for adults.

Inside the main visitor’s gate at the Grand Palace, Na Phra Lan Rd., 02-225-9430. Open daily 9am-3:30pm

VIMANMEK MANSION

First-time visitors will most likely already be in awe of the beautiful garden inside the palace gates, but step inside the colossal mansion and you’ll realize you can easily spend a whole day here, walking around the 31 exhibition rooms and taking in some of Thailand’s most prized photographs and artifacts, as well as King Rama V’s personal belongings ranging from elegant antique furniture to rare foreign memorabilia. But it isn’t just the museum’s displays that will catch your eye—the gorgeous teak structre itself boasts a great deal of colonial charm.

16 Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300. Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-3pm

Embassy Cineplex Equipped with state-of-the-art screens and sound systems, jumbo-sized seats and private mini fridges, this cinema offers one of the most extravagant movie-watching experiences in the world. The cinema contains a total of five theaters with seats that range from cocoon-style first-class plane pods to daybeds and giant sofas. Be sure to check the official website for tickets and showtimes. 6/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605999. BTS Phloen Chit

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GUIDE

ART

TARS GALLERY

Many of Bangkok’s young galleries have been looking beyond the city center, and Tars is the latest to have opened in the burgeoning art hub of Phra Khanong. Like neighbors Rebel Art Space, Hof and Goja, this space sees a traditional shop-house given whitewashed walls and glass frontage for a pared back contemporary feel. Tars' first exhibition, Untitled 1: Group Exhibition, is still showing, featuring an eclectic mishmash of painting, sculpture and photography from an international group of artists. Sukhumvit Soi 67, 099-736-8672. Open Wed-Fri, 2-6pm. BTS Phra Khanong

Hot Spots TOP EXHIBITIONS THIS MONTH

Y SPOTLIGHT

JAPANESE CONTEMPORARY ART SHOW

A collaborative exhibition between eight renowned and emerging artists, showcasing works ranging from silkscreen designs to cartoon drawings. Through Feb 11, La Lanta Fine Art, 245-14 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-204-0583

4 FLOWS

A collection of never-before-exhibited watercolor painting works by 60 current Thai artists capturing architecture, daily life and culture around the country.

JAPANESE CONTEMPORARY ART SHOW

LONELY IN BANGKOK

A photographic exhibition capturing the lonely and daunting journey of being a foreigner learning the ways of Bangkok for the first time, as experienced by French artist Jean-Seabastien Faure over the past four years.

Through Feb 16, Chamchuri Art Gallery, Chulalongkorn University, Phayathai Rd., 02-218-3709

BRONZE

French artist Pierre Bonnefille uses liquefied and frozen bronze to create abstract patterns on canvas. Through Feb 24, Yenak Art Villa, 69 Soi Prasat Suk, Yen Akat Rd., 02-235-9800

Through Feb 28, Kathmandu Art Gallery, 87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700. BTS Surasak

BANGKOK MON AMOUR

Virginie Broquet presents her mixed media paintings inspired by the people she has encountered and observed during her travels through Thailand and Asia. Feb 25-Mar 20, Alliance Francaise de Bangkok, 179 Wireless Rd., 02-670-4200. MRT Lumphini

Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) This 18,000-sq-meter, five-story building in the north of Bangkok is Thailand’s biggest private museum and first significant permanent modern art collection open to the public. The works are nearly all post 1970s, and mostly post 1990s even, with plenty of realism and surrealism depicting rural life, religious Buddhist scenes or mythological motifs from the Ramayana. The highlight is the fourth floor's four rooms dedicated to the late Thawan Duchanee, Thailand’s most renowned contemporary painter. Room 499, Bejajinda Building, Viphavadee-Rangsit Rd., 02-953-1005-7. Open Tue-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat-Sun 11am6pm. www.mocabangkok.com

BRONZE

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130. The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 FEBRUARY 2016 I W HER E THA ILA N D 33

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

!2 1 Sipping super strong cocktails with a bowl of rich Nothern curry at Soul Food Mahanakorn before ending our meal on a sweet note with their delicious durian-flavored ice cream. See page 10. 2 Making an appointment to visit Yenakart Villa, a new multi-purpose art space in the Sathorn area. See page 31. 3 Dining on the inventive, five-course tasting menu at Le Du, one of our favorite Thai kitchens in town. See page 11. 4 Getting pampered at Health Land, which offers traditional-style massages in one of the city’s most hip areas. See page 19.

6 Browsing around for unique decor pieces at Alexander Lamont, known for his European-style craftsmanship with Asian touches. See page 9.

!2 Getting a tension relieving Thai massage at the spiritual home of the art, Wat Pho, also home to the 46-meter-long reclining Buddha. See page 29.

7 Tasting the creatively crafted dishes at Err, a riverside restaurant specializing in casual Thai dining. See page 10.

!9 Sipping on the barrel-aged cock!3 Watching the sun set over Wat tails at Bangkok’s oldest jazz institution,

8 Admiring the interactive art exhibition on the second floor of WTF before grabbing a round of drinks with the city’s coolest hipsters downstairs. See page 27. 9 Shopping for luxury silk products at Jim Thompson’s original store. See page 9. !0 Sipping on a ya dong cocktail while listening to traditional Thai music at Tep Bar. See page 26.

5 Stocking up on beautiful ceramics and kitchenware at OTOP Heritage, located in the luxurious Central Embassy. See page 9.

!1 Taking in the sweeping views of the city with a colorful cocktail in hand at Above Eleven, a rooftop bar with stellar views. See page 25.

Arun while eating the delicious Thai food at the riverside hotel Sala Rattanakosin. See page 23.

!8 Soaking up the riverside view while sipping a strong cocktail at Viva & Aviv, a pirate-themed bar on Charoenkrung Road. See page 21.

Bamboo Bar, which recently received a stunning renovation. See page 7.

@0 Spending a cultural day at Viman!4 Eating the decadent wagyu sir- mek Palace that houses the royal loin with black truffle potato and bone marrow butter at Vogue Lounge. See page 7.

museums of photography, textiles and silk, clocks, and many other topics. See page 30.

!5 Spending an evening at Asiatique, @1 Sampling the modern yet authentithe giant riverside development that’s home to shops, restaurants, bars and cultural performances. See page 28.

cally flavored Thai food of Benjarong, whose head chef trained under the chef of Copenhagen’s one-Michelinstar Kiin Kiin. See page 12.

!6 Discovering Michelin-star-worthy traditional Thai dishes at David Thompson’s Nahm. See page 12. !7 Bouncing around in a warehouse filled with 80 trampolines at Bounce Thailand. See page 30.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

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