Where® Thailand July 2016

Page 1

Thailand

PLUS

J U LY 2 0 1 6 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

®

WWW.WHE R E T H A I L A N D.C O M

Siam shopping guide The hottest bars in Bangkok

TASTE OF THAILAND The lesser-known Thai dishes you need to try LES CLEFS D’OR THAIL AND

THE PREFERRED PUBLICATION OF YOUR HOTEL CONCIERGE COVER_July_2016_4.indd 1

6/23/16 2:28 PM


TOC_July_2016.indd 2

6/23/16 6:24 PM


CONTENTS where

®

l THAILAND l JULY 2016

The Guide BANGKOK 23 DINING Book a seat at these extraordinary Asian cuisine meccas, or discover Bangkok's most atmospheric Thai restaurants.

6

26 NIGHTLIFE Get a true taste of Thailand at these bars which inject a shot of local spirit into what they do.

STREET LIFE

28 SHOPS+SERVICES

Discover the amazing Thai dishes which the rest of the world doesn't know about.

14

Learn the ins and outs of Bangkok's legendary markets, where the perfect gifts for home await.

29 HEALTH+WELLNESS

NIGHTLIFE

Plan an active day out at one of these fun family facilities.

14 BAR HOPPING Check out this year's hottest new bars from Bangkok's busiest night spots.

30 ATTRACTIONS Make the most of a rainy day at one of Bangkok's amazing luxury cinemas.

AROUND THAILAND 16 RAINY ESCAPES

31 ART

Beat the wet season by heading to these beautiful destinations from across the country.

20

This month's must-visit exhibitions and galleries.

32 NAVIGATE

EXPLORING

Essential tips on getting around.

20 SIAM Plan your shopping spree with our guide to Bangkok's coolest retail area, complete with everything from luxury brands to local designers.

ALSO INSIDE 4

HOT DATES

34 21 THINGS WE LOVE Where Thailand is proud to be an associated publication of the Thailand Chapter of Les Clefs d'Or (the International Concierge Association).

Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon

Deputy Art Director Panita Thiraphapong

Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Where Designer Wariya Whangwaewklang Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Lily Kittisrikangwan, Natcha Saguankiattichai, Bonnie Sananvatananont

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Features Associate Monruedee Jansuttipan Marketing Executive Plaifon Chienvichai Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dith Chang

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Account Manager Suda Angsuputiphant Intern Joseph Lam

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@ Morris.Com

MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Cover by Grégoire Glachant

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, Room A, 100 North Sathorn Rd. Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

www.wherethailand.com

@where_thailand

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

JULY 2016 I W HERE THA ILA N D   3

TOC_July_2016_NEW.indd 3

6/24/16 6:32 PM


Y

where

HOT DATES

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

JUL 29

STAR QUALITY Selena Gomez, the former Disney star turned pop singer makes her way to the Bangkok stage for the first time this summer. Fans can expect performances of her brand new hits from her latest album Revival, such as “Good for You” and “Same Old Love” as well as many of her other guilty-pleasure songs from previous albums. Tickets are B2,000-5,000 from Thaiticketmajor

JUL 6

JUL 1-5

JUL 2-3

JUL 23

The Paradise Bangkok band are known for reviving Northeastern Thai traditional ‘60s and ‘70s molam (country music) sounds with new, modern twists. After taking a recent tour around Europe and performing at huge name festivals including Glastonbury and Field Day, the fivepiece group are now back in Bangkok for a gig at the always-happening Studio Lam bar.

David Lindsay Abaire and Jeanine Tesori’s Broadway play, Shrek the Musical, makes its way to Bangkok for the first time as part of its international tour. The play is based on the Oscarwinning animation movie about an ogre who sets out rescue a princess with the help of his donkey friend.

With over 400 stalls, the mega indoor fashion market Zaap on Sale features massive bargains on local fashion labels. Unlike previous events, this installment also includes a dedicated food zone, making it a perfect onestop destination for shopping, chilling and eating.

Tickets are B1,500-4,500 from Thaiticketmajor.com. Muangthai Rachadalai Theatre, Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-669-8288. MRT Thai Cultural Center

Free entry. Royal Paragon Hall, 5/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd. BTS Siam

Cinema Diverse is a film screening series in which five acclaimed female Thai directors are invited to select international films to be screened bi-monthly from May-Nov. This month sees the screening of the 2013 drama/adventure film Nebraska directed by Alexander Payne and chosen by Wanwaew and Waewwan Hongvivatana, twin scripwriters known for their series “Wish us Luck.” Followed by a discussion.

COUNTRY SOUNDS

Tickets are B300 at the door. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-2am. BTS Thong Lor or Phrom Phong

TO THE RESCUE

BARGAIN HUNTING

DIVERSE FLICKS

Tickets are B60. Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-2146630. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. BTS National Stadium

4 W H E R E T H A I LAND I J ULY 2 0 1 6

Hotdate_July_2016_NEW.indd 4

6/24/16 6:34 PM


Flight of Gibbon.indd 1

2/16/2559 BE 5:22 PM


Y

where

DINING

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

UNDERRATED THAI DISHES

GUAY TEAW RUEA (BOAT NOODLES)

Thai cuisine spans so much more than pad Thai and green curry. Step off the beaten path to experience dishes rarely ever tasted outside the kingdom. By Where Editorial

Traditionally sold from the canal rowing boats of Bangkok floating markets, guay teaw ruea is characterized by a flavorful brown soup, in which you’ll find thin white noodles, pork balls, braised pork and morning glory. Beef options can also sometimes be found. Some shops also sell nam tok—an addition of pork blood that blends in with the soup. STREET OPTION: Nai Ngork, W District, Sukhumvit Rd., 086-566-2929. Open daily 8am-5pm. BTS Phra Khanong RESTAURANT OPTION: Guay Teaw Ruea Ta Siam, 7/F, MBK Center, 444 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-560-1700. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS National Stadium

YEN TA FO (YONG TAU FOO)

KANOM JEEN

NOODLES KANOM JEEN

The pinkish color of this noodle dish comes from fermented bean curd (often helped by a little food coloring), which also gives the dish its unique taste and aroma. The most common noodles for yen ta fo are the sen yhai (wide rice noodle), accompanied by fermented squid, fried tofu, fried fish ball slices, pork blood curd and morning glory. Traditionally also served with jellyfish, most places now use snow fungus instead. STREET OPTION: Yentafo JC, Convent Soi 2, Silom Rd., 081-814-9547. Open Mon-Sat 6-9:30am; 10am-1pm. BTS Sala Daeng

Kanom jeen is what Thais call rice noodles. Unlike other noodles, they are usually eaten as a substitute for rice itself, alongside curries and all kinds of other spicy dishes. Common rice noodle pairings include a fish-based curry called nam ya, normally accompanied by fish balls.

RESTAURANT OPTION: Yentafo Kruengsonge by A. Mallika, 5/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-108-0843. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Asok/MRT Sukhumvit

STREET OPTION: Je Aew, Klongtoey Market, Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-249-2623. Open daily 6am-4pm. MRT Queen Sirikit Center RESTAURANT OPTION: Greyhound, J Avenue, Thonglor Soi 15, 02-712-6547. Open daily 9am-10pm

YEN TA FO

GUAY TEAW RUEA

6 W H E R E T H A I LAND I J ULY 2 0 1 6

FEATURE_01_July_2016_New.indd 6

6/24/16 6:36 PM


JULY 2016 I W HERE THA ILA N D 7

FEATURE_01_July_2016_New.indd 7

6/24/16 6:36 PM


Y

where

DINING

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

TIMOTHY VOLLMER

ISAAN KOR MOO YANG

NAM TOK

This guilty-pleasure dish of grilled pork neck should feature nicely marbled lines of meat and fat when sliced. Like gai yang, the meat should be well marinated before being grilled, and served with jaew, a spicy dipping sauce made from fish sauce, roasted rice powder, chili powder and chopped spring onion. STREET OPTION: Je Kee, 137/1-2 Soi Polo (near Lumphini Police Station), Wireless Rd., 02-252-2252, 02-655-8489. Open daily 7am-10pm. MRT Lumphini RESTAURANT OPTION: Kai Yang Sua Yai, Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-6428. Open daily 11am-10pm

NAM TOK TOM SAEP

KOR MOO YANG

LUXX

Similar to laab, but the meat needs to be grilled before it’s seasoned. Most kitchens make this dish with pork or beef, which is lightly grilled and then sliced before being added to a subtle stock to finish cooking. It’s then seasoned with toasted rice, chili powder, lime, chopped spring onion and mint. STREET OPTION: Je Daeng Sam Yan, 209 Soi Chula 48, Rama 4 Rd. Open daily 10am4pm. BTS Siam/MRT Sam Yan RESTAURANT OPTION: Tum Thonglor, 2/F, The Taste, Thonglor Soi 11, 091-8744999. Open daily 10am-10pm

TOM SAEP Hot and spicy, tom saep is like a cross between a classic tom yam soup and Isaan spices. Essential ingredients include galangal, lemongrass, tomato, shallot, kaffir lime leaves, cilantro, roasted dried chili and lime, while the meat can vary between beef, chicken and pork.

SILOM +662 635 8800 reservations@staywithluxx.com LANGSUAN +662 684 1111 reservationsxl@staywithluxx.com

www.staywithluxx.com

stay with LUXX in bangkok

LUXXhotel

STREET OPTION: Sabai Jai Gai Yang, 65 Ekkamai Soi 1, 02-714-2622. Open daily 10am-11:30pm. BTS Ekkamai RESTAURANT OPTION: Somtum Der, 5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am-2pm, 4:30-10pm. BTS Sala Daeng/ MRT Silom

8 W H E R E T H A I LAND I J ULY 2 0 1 6

FEATURE_01_July_2016_New.indd 8

6/24/16 6:36 PM


ADVERTORIAL

RIVERSIDE SPLENDOR For fine dining with a view and boutiques dedicated to Southeast Asian treasures, visit the recently renovated River City Bangkok.

THE RENOVATION IS SPECTACULAR

THE LOCATION IS STILL UNRIVALED

River City Bangkok has gone through a total refurb that propels it back to the forefront of our city's vibrant shopping scene. Siam may be all about high-street brands, and outdoor markets may stock their share of trinkets, but River City Bangkok offers something entirely different: genuine Asian handicrafts, antiques and textiles. If you’re looking for something you’ll treasure for a lifetime, not just a season, River City Bangkok is where to find it. Hop on a ferry at BTS Saphan Taksin, or get there via Charoen Krung Road, and you'll feel transported to the Venice of the East as soon as you arrive.

River City Bangkok was the city's first shopping center located right on the banks of the Chao Phraya. Today, it remains one of the most enchanting places to grab a drink while watching the sunset or to dine in full view of the ballet of rice barges and five-star hotel shuttles navigating the river. It’s also a great starting point to explore the river and the dock of choice for the city’s most luxurious cruises (more simply on that later). Order a cocktail, kick back and simply enjoy the river's slow life appeal.

YOU’LL FIND SOME OF THE REGION’S BEST ART AND ANTIQUES The auction house has made River City Bangkok a veritable hub for all collectors. Packed with galleries curating Southeast Asian antiques of the highest order, River City Bangkok has a depth of offerings that rivals a museum’s. Except here, if something catches your eye, you can actually take it home. Souvenirs and expert tailors complete the picture, meaning you’re guaranteed to find a meaningful gift that is both beautifully crafted and full of local charm.

BANGKOK’S OLDEST AUCTION HOUSE IS HERE Dubbed the “Anchor for Arts & Antiques,” River City Bangkok is also a premier auction house, and the city’s oldest one still in operation. On every first Saturday of the month, collectors in the know gather to bid on rare treasures from the region. The auction is certified by the Association for the Propagation and Promotion of Objets d’Art meaning you can rest assured that when the gavel goes down and your bid has won, everything is above board. The atmosphere is electric, too, so participating is half the fun.

THE CHAO PHRAYA’S PREMIER CRUISES DEPART FROM HERE Nothing says special occasion quite like a dinner cruise on the River of Kings. River City Bangkok is the boarding point for 10 luxury cruises, including Wonderful Pearl, Grand Pearl, Pearl of Siam, Chaopraya Cruise, Chaopraya Princess, River Sun, Wan-Fah, White Orchid and Apsara. Departing just before sunset, you will see the sun go down on the river as you sip your welcome drink and tuck into your gourmet dinner. So book now, and embark on an unforgettable journey.

River City_July_2016.indd 9

River City Bangkok 02-237-0077. Open daily 10am-10pm www.rivercitybangkok.com

Simply scan the QR Code to get direction to the store

6/24/2559 BE 6:48 PM


Y

where

DINING

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

OVER RICE KRAPAO GAI Possibly the most-ordered dish when locals can’t decide on what to eat. Thai basil is stirfried in a wok with chicken, pork, beef, fish or seafood, and flavored with chilies, oyster sauce, soy sauce, and brown sugar. The sweet and spicy dish is usually served with jasmine rice, topped with a fried egg.

HOY TOD

STREET OPTION: Yor Yak, Chulalongkorn Soi 50, 087-378-6070. Open daily 10am10pm RESTAURANT OPTION: Soul Food Mahanakorn, 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor). Open daily 6p-12am. BTS Thong Lo

KHAO KLUK KHAPI

KHAO KLUK KHAPI

HOY TOD

This traditional fried-rice dish is cooked with kapi (shrimp paste) to provide a mild, salty taste. Most places will serve it with dried shrimps and side condiments like sliced raw mango, chopped omelet, shallots and sweet pork. Add some lime juice if the tangy raw mango is not sour enough.

Another staple dish that can be found at pad Thai stalls, especially at Bangkok night markets. Oysters or mussels are fried with egg and flour batter into a savory pancake that’s topped with chopped green onion, bean sprouts and sweet chili sauce. You can usually tell the cook if you’d prefer the pancake gooey or crispy.

STREET OPTION: Nai Ngao Khao Kluk Kapi, Phra Athit Rd., near ASTV, 084-696-8797, 087-021-0213. Open Tue-Sat 8am-2:30pm

STREET OPTION: Tip Hoy Tod Phu Khao Fai, 3 Charoengkrung Soi 50, 02-233-1116. Open Mon-Sat, 9:30am-7:30pm

RESTAURANT OPTION: Taling Pling, G/F, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-1294353/4. Open daily 11am-10pm. BTS Siam

RESTAURANT OPTION: Eat Thai, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-119-7777. Open daily 10am-10pm

KRAPAO GAI

CHEFS TELL US THEIR FAVORITE STREET FOOD EATS

Bo Songvisava and Dylan Jones of Bo.Lan Favorite spot: Kao Lao Jom Yut “We go for the beef noodle soup, paired with rice. Don’t go after lunchtime, as they tend to run out of many items on the menu.” Near Plearng Nam Rd. in Chinatown, 02-221-7894

Thanaruek Laoraowirodge of Somtum Der and Supanniga Eating Room Favorite spot: Khao Man Ghai Pratunam

Ian Kittichai of Issaya Siamese Club Favorite spot: Pad Thai Thip Samai (also known as Pad Thai Pratu Phee)

“When you see me eating finger food from a street vendor, chances are I didn’t intentionally go to the vendor to get the food but it looked good in passing. Personally, I think that’s the best way to enjoy street food because it’s hot, quick and straightforward in terms of taste.”

“One of my go-to spots when it comes to street eating. Thanks to the pad Thai hor khai good sod [pad Thai with fresh shrimp wrapped in a thin egg crepe]. Don’t miss their freshly squeezed orange juice out front.” 313 Mahachai Rd., 02-221-6280.

926 Petchaburi Rd., 02-252-6325 10 W H E R E T H A I LAND I J ULY 2 0 1 6

FEATURE_01_July_2016_New.indd 10

6/24/16 6:37 PM


FEATURE_01_July_2016_New.indd 11

6/24/16 6:37 PM


Y

where

DINING

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

DESSERTS LOD CHONG

KANOM CHUN

The silky texture of these green noodles made from pandan leaves and flour goes perfectly in a pool of smooth and sweetened kati (coconut milk). They’re usually served in ice to reduce the sweetness. Fun fact: when the vendor adds jackfruit and pomegranate in the mix, the dessert is called Lod Chong Singapore because it originated from a shop in front of a theater called Singapore, in Bangkok’s Chinatown. STREET OPTION: Lod Chong Singapore. 680-682 Chareonkrung Rd. Open daily 11am-almost 10pm

KANOM CHUN

LOD CHONG

CHAO GUAY

Thailand’s take on jelly and custard has a name that literally translates to “layered sweet.” The sticky and delightfully layered dessert comes in popular flavors such as coffee, bai toey (pandan), unchun (butterfly pea) and red syrup— so addictive you won’t be able to stop peeling them apart layer by layer. STREET OPTION: Mae Jeng Talat Phlu Thai Dessert, Phlu Market, 1119 Toetthai Rd., next to Talat Phlu train station. Open daily 9.30am-8pm. BTS Talat Phlu

CHAO GUAY Perfect for cooling down, this dish consists of cubes of dark-colored sweet grass jelly simply served with brown sugar and ice. In a less traditional style, some places now serve it as a drink, combined with milk and/or cold milk tea, in a similar concept to bubble tea. STREET OPTION: Chao Guay Boran, 1/100 Chatuchak Weekend Market, Phahol Yothin Rd., 081-928-2469. Open Sat-Sun 10:30am-7:30pm.

12 W H E R E T H A I LAND I J ULY 2 0 1 6

FEATURE_01_July_2016_New.indd 12

6/24/16 6:37 PM


+ where I

NASHA LABORATOIRE

THINKK STUDIO

VATANIKA

THINKK STUDIO

FIVE THAI WOMEN DESIGNERS MAKING THAILAND PROUD

Pirada Senivongse Na Ayudhya of Found by Trimode

From fashion to furnishings, meet the kingdom’s female design talents breaking through internationally. Linda Charoenlab of Lalalove London Fashion designer and stylist Linda Charoenlab launched Lalalove as a T-shirt brand back in the early 2000s while studying at the London College of Fashion. Her unique designs were quickly picked up by Topshop in Oxford Street, London, which really kicked off her reputation. Since then, her work has developed from T-shirts into a full line of womenswear. Finally in March 2015, Linda opened her first flagship store at Siam Center (which has been followed by retail space in many leading department stores), bringing her international success back to her hometown, Bangkok. Linda’s designs use 100-percent ecofriendly fabrics (sourced both locally and internationally) which she mixes with unique prints in vibrant colors. You’ll love: Her digitally printed tees, jumper and swimwear. Get yours at: 3/F, Siam Center, 979 Rama 1 Rd. BTS Siam. www.fb.com/ lalalovelondon

Nasha Mekraksavanich of Nasha Laboratoire Nasha Mekravanish is another designer who gained her reputation internationally before bringing her brand back to Thailand. A graduate of Bangkok’s Silpakorn University Interior Design department, she then moved to Milan where she achieved two more degrees in shoe and jelwery design at Ars Sutoria and Istituto Marangoni before establishing her brand in 2013. Her first collection premiered at Paris Fashion Week before being selected as part of Vogue Italia Talents 2013. Now the brand has arrived in Bangkok at Club 21 Thailand and many department stores. The unique, geometric shapes mix architectural construction with metal details, and are crafted from genuine exotic leathers like snakeskin, crocodile and stingray. You’ll love: Shroom Like a Mushroom, a box leather clutch with agate stones. Get yours at: 1/F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd. BTS Siam. www. fb.com/nasha.accessories.official

Vatanika Patamasingha of Vatanika Vatanika’s new-wave Thai brand picked up immediately after first launching in 2011. Today, the brand’s unique and exotic designs are available in everything from evening gowns to workwear. Representing a strong, workaholic woman who’s also sexy and stylish, the brand joined the annual ELLE Fashion Week for the first time in 2012, and has since collaborated with global brands like L’Oreal and Diageo Moet Hennessey. Now, not only are Vatanika’s clothes available in many department stores in Bangkok, but she recently opened her first showroom in Paris. You’ll love: The cut-out stretch crepe jumpsuit Get yours at: 1/F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd. BTS Siam. www. fb.com/vatanika

Jewelry designer Pirada Senivonge Na Ayudhya has worked with The Support Arts and Crafts International Centre of Thailand, traveling around the country to help contemporize traditional products. The result is DeMark Award-winning products like Doipui, a modern redesign of a traditional Hmong embroidered hat, and Nakhon Ratchasima, jewelry made with buffalo, ox and yak horns. You’ll love: The Doipui hat with its beautiful details Get yours at: ODS, 3/F Siam Discovery. www.trimodestudio.com

Ploypan Theerachai of Thinkk Studio Thinkk design studio has exhibited in Milan, Paris and Taiwan, as well as Bangkok’s very own creative center, TCDC. Most recently they launched sister brand Thingg, which focuses on locally sourced materials and Thai craft skills. The Lanna Factory lamps are inspired by cotton thread lamps found at Thai flea markets, and are woven on a machine which Ploypan and her design partner, Decha Archjananun, designed themselves. You’ll love: The Lanna pendant lamp Get yours at: 3/F Siam Discovery. www.facebook.com/thinkkstudio

JULY 2016 I W HERE THA ILA N D 13

TAT_July_2016.indd 13

6/23/2559 BE 6:51 PM


Y

where

NIGHTLIFE

UNCLE X 72 COURTYARD

RABBIT HOLE

COCKTAILS UNCLE X 72 COURTYARD

BEAM

RABBIT HOLE

BAR HOPPING

Head out at night to discover Bangkok’s thriving nightlife scene. Here are the hottest new openings from 2016 so far.

CLUBS BEAM The swanky Thonglor neighborhood’s showpiece nightclub is truly world class, featuring Asia’s first “body kinetic” dance floor that shakes vibrations into dancers’ feet. The style is minimal, raw, casual and loud. The lounge area, dubbed the Dalmatian Room, promises easygoing electronic beats and future hip-hop (think Flume, Disclosure, Jamie XX, James Blake, Snakehips, and more), while the main room upstairs brings quality, energetic, deep house and techno tracks from live DJs. 1/F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02392-7750. Open Wed-Sat 9pm-2am

LIGHTROOM Walk up a rickety set of steps to the second floor of this buzzing complex of indie shops and bars and you’ll find Lightroom—a cool blend of white decor, sci-fi lighting, style-savvy customers and heavy basslines. Its owner, Nodnuanwan “Nod” Tatong, shook up the Ekkamai neighborhood’s after-hours scene when she opened Dark Bar at the end of 2014, which sits right across from Lightroom and draws an equally big crowd each weekend. Ekkamai Soi 10, 095-050-9095. Open Wed-Sat 9:30pm-midnight

This moody cocktail bar sits on top of a chic development of restaurants and night spots. Its specialty is classic cocktails with a twist served for a fraction of the price of other bars which look even half this stylish. When you’re sipping drinks as good as head barman Philip Stefanescu’s Manhattan Latino (rum, Mancino Rosso, cocoa and bittes) while lounging on one of their slouchy leather sofas, it’s hard to just have one or two. 1/F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-7637. Open daily 6pm-1am

THE OWL SOCIETY WHISKEY SALOON The head designer of the local fashion label Issue, is responsible for the mature, industrialmeets-gentlemen’s-club style at this whiskeyspecializing bar. You’ll find over 100 bottles from all over the world, categorized by country and region, as well as some delicious whiskey-based cocktails, made by Suchada “Fahbeer” Sopajaree, one of 12 finalists at the Diageo World Class Thailand Competition 2016. Head there on a Friday or Saturday to enjoy live soul music with your spiritforward Great Grey (Johnnie Walker Black Label, Cynar, Port Cherry and patron XO Cafe). Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-046-3798. Open daily 5pm-2am

14 W H E R E T H A I LAND I J ULY 2 0 1 6

Feature_02_July_2016_New.indd 14

6/24/16 6:39 PM


WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

ROOFTOP BARS CHAR

CHAR

The latest rooftop bar in town is just about the drinks. Over on the grill they cook up some amazing local beef from French butcher Arnaud Carre—one of the most respected food names in town. Char actually takes up the top two stories of the recently opened Hotel Indigo, with a stylish dining room downstairs and the rooftop bar up above to benefit from those amazing views across Bangkok’s “Embassy Row.” Rooftop/F, Hotel Indigo, 81 Wireless Rd., 02-2074999. Open Sun-Wed 5pm-midnight and Thurs-Sat 5pm-2am

TOP KNOT

EVIL MAN BLUES

Sitting on top of the Hotel Once, this multi-level bar and grill offers 360-degree views from its upper level. You come here for quiet, intimate evenings and small gatherings among friends in an area of the city which is only just waking up to nightlife—but which has the authentic atmo

sphere of old Bangkok. The food menu is not so Thai, offering a selection of barbecue specials like pork, chicken, beef, salmon and shrimp as well as pastas. To drink, it’s cocktails or local and imported beers. 8-9/F, Hotel Once Bangkok, 2074/99 Charoenkrung Soi 72/2, 02-688-2596. Open daily daily 6pm-midnight

BEER THE BEER CAP This venue combines craft beer and live music, decorated with its signature long bar covered with beer caps. The brew selection focuses on niche craft beers, both on tap and by the bottle. When we last visited, there were six beers on tap: BrewDog Punk IPA, Holgate, Chainbreaker White IPA, Epic Escape IPA, Epic Mid Mountain mid ale and Limburgse Witte. The Commons, 355 Thonglor Soi 17, 02-185-2517. Open daily 11-1am

RABBIT HOLE Step inside the inconspicuous wooden door wedged between Ainu Japanese bar and Ramen Ajisai and you’ll find a charming, red-lit narrow bar staffed by two veteran Diaego World Class cocktail competition. Expect spirit-forward cocktails poured in big measure accompanied by lounge music and an easygoing atmosphere that belies your chic surroundings. Don’t miss the White Truffle Martini, which they make using truffle oil-infused Tanqueray Gin chilled to -18 degrees Celsius. Get there early if you want a seat at the bar on a Friday night. 125 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 098-969-1335. Open daily 7pm-2am

EVIL MAN BLUES 72 Courtyard is right now the hottest nightlife spot on Thonglor (also see UNCLE and Beam) and this ground floor bar is its latest addition. Themed after a 1950s American diner, the bar’s purple and blue neon lighting illuminate a wellpolished space manned by new-in-town bartender Liam Baer. He dishes out a list of creative twists on classic cocktails, and also has a special collection of house-made drinks. Try and make it there for Wed-Sat to check out the live jazz band. G/F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-7740. Open Tue-Thurs 6pm-midnight and Fri-Sun 6pm-1am JULY 2016 I W HERE THA ILA N D 15

Feature_02_July_2016_New.indd 15

6/24/16 6:40 PM


Y

where

AROUND THAILAND WIL ANDERSON

KRUNGCHING WATERFALL

NORTHERN DESTINATION CHIANG MAI Why now: Rainy season in Chiang Mai usually consists of just light drizzle and short bursts of rain, making it an ideal escape from the tropical downpours of the South. Here are some of our top wet weather picks for the North.

RAINY ESCAPES Three top destinations to beat Thailand’s rainy season By Where Editorial

F

rom July through till October the heavens in Thailand can open. But there are still some incredible destinations out there which benefit from this time of year. Here are our top picks.

BEACH DESTINATION NAKHON SI THAMMARAT Why now: Monsoon season isn’t kind to the Andaman Sea, but the Gulf of Thailand is arguably at its finest, and Nakhon Si Thammarat is top of the must-visit list. Head here: Newly-founded national park Hat Khanom–Mu Ko Thale Tai is home to stunning coral reefs and pink dolphins. JunAug is the best time to catch this rare species due to low rainfall and clear waters. Take a day tour, which starts in the early morning when the dolphins approach fishermen’s boats to feed on the small, unwanted fish. Stop by nearby Koh Nui, unique for its natural fresh-water well. Next, head over to Khao Puppa, whose curious limestone formations similar to those in Punakaiki, New Zealand, have earned it the nickname Pancake Rocks. Other marine attractions include diving spots at Koh Tan, Koh Rab and Koh Matsum. Try Nakhon Si Grand Tour (080-233-

3322, goo.gl/0ZyFSv), which offers dolphin and diving tours. Now is also a good time to visit the waterfalls, the best of which are Krungching, Ai Kaew and Promlok. This Jul 16 also sees the return of the annual Khanom Festival 2016 featuring local superstars like 25 Hours and Getsunova under the theme “Tropi-color.” Stay here: Aava Resort & Spa (075-300310, www.aavaresort.com) offers rooms starting from B4,200 for a deluxe bungalow up to B11,000 for a poolside villa. Go budget at Alongkot Beach Resort Khanom (075529119, www.alongkotresort.com) where rooms start at B1,400. Y How to get there: There are direct flights from Bangkok to Nakhon Si Thammarat daily. Thai Lion Air offers the best rates from B1,400 while AirAsia is B1,580 and Nok Air (www.nokair.com) is B2,780.

Head here: The wet season is the best time for a trip to the waterfalls, as this is when they have the fullest bodies of water, while surrounding forests are at their greenest. The most impressive is Mae Sa Waterfall, with its drop descending over more than 10 tiers. If you’re lucky, you might even see elephants taking their baths in the bottommost pool. Easier to get to is Huay Kaew Falls, the ideal waterfall for a fuss-free picnic. Located on the bottom part of Doi Suthep, it consists of a high descent point that pours over a 50-meter rock slope that offers numerous spots to relax and cool off. Entrance is free with plenty of on-site restaurants overlooking the cascade. Those who are up for a little more hiking, climb further up the same spot to the Monthathai Falls, a more secluded area that’s also perfect for picnicking. What most people don’t know is that Monthathai Falls also carries the only path to a hidden gem at the waterfall’s third tier, about a 40-minutehike upwards on the trail above the drop. Stay here: Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com) currently has some amazing flight and hotel packages like three-daytwo-night-stays in 4-5 star Chiang Mai hotels. A visit to the charmingly Northern Hotel Yayee, for example, costs B6,500, while the well-appointed Akyra Minor Hotel Chiang Mai costs B8,900. Make your bookings through partner travel agencies at goo.gl/J44XXT. The packages are available from now until Nov 30. Y How to get there: On top of the above Bangkok Airways deals, also check out flights with AirAsia, who offer return flights from Bangkok’s Don Muang airport starting at B990.

16 W H E R E T H A I LAND I J ULY 2 0 1 6

AROUND_THAILAND_1_July_2016_New.indd 16

6/24/16 6:41 PM


WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

CENTRAL DESTINATION KHAO YAI Why now: The low season offers much more than just massive discounts on rooms. Khao Yai makes for a perfect romantic getaway close to Bangkok—just imagine waking up to views over misty vineyards, followed by exploring local art and design. Head here: Save your plane ticket fare to sip wine and listen to the raindrops at Granmonte Asoke Valley (www.granmonte. com), the multi-award-winning vineyard led by Nikki Lohitnavy, Thailand’s first female winemaker and a recent appearance in Forbes’s inaugural Asia 30 under 30 list. They offer wine tasting programs and farm tours, but we recommend going for a wine and dine package which starts at B950 at lunch or dinner. This season’s must-tries are 2015 Verdelho, which just won a silver medal from the prestigious Decanter World Wine Awards 2016 and the NV Cremant Extra Brut which won a consolation prize from the same event. For an arty adventure, visit Khao Yai Art Museum (Ban Tha Chang Soi 6, Moo 16) which exhibits the vast contemporary art collection of local businessman Pongchai Chindasook. Architecture hunters will also want to stop by the quaint cottages and cafe of Birder’s Lodge (044-300-185, goo.gl/dx09y7) and the industrial-chic Yellow Submarine Coffee Tank (096-981-0682, goo.gl/xD35D8) near the entrance of Khao Yai National Park, where the waterfalls are in full flow.

NHAPHA KHAO YAI RESORT

YELLOW SUBMARINE

BIRDER’S LODGE

GRAMONTE ASOKE VALLEY

Stay here: Granmonte Guesthouse (084904-1944, 081-622-6662, www.granmonteguesthouse.com) is offering 40-percent discounts on weekdays (BTK from BTK), but we also like the look of the weekend Wine & Dine package (B8,680 per couple), which gets you one night in a deluxe room, two bottles of wine plus a Thai or Western lunch, dinner and breakfast from now until Sep 30. Nature lovers may want to book a room at the newly-opened Nhapha Khao Yai Resort (093-636-9999. www.nhapha-khaoyai. com), whose rooms are carved out of a disused quarry. Y How to get there: You can reach Khao Yai by taxi from Bangkok. Try a car service like Bangkok Airport Limosine (www.limousine. in.th) which rates start from B3,200. JULY 2016 I W HERE THA ILA N D 17

AROUND_THAILAND_1_July_2016_New.indd 17

6/24/16 6:42 PM


whereExploring JULY 2016 | BANGKOK HYDE & SEEK PEEK A BOO

SIAM Siam sees huge malls like Siam Paragon and CentralWorld rub shoulders with trendy little boutiques hidden in a maze of streets populated by fashion-loving uni students. The area is also home to downtown Bangkok’s biggest cultural space, as well as the cheap electronics mecca of MBK. Here’s how to spend an entire day eating, shopping and drinking in this very modern Bangkok neighborhood.

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 20 SIAM

18 W H E R E T H A ILAND I J ULY 2 0 1 6

The Exploring Landing_July_2016 .indd 18

6/23/16 2:56 PM


JULY 2016 I W HERE THA ILA N D 19

The Exploring Landing_July_2016_NEW.indd 19

6/24/16 6:50 PM


EXPLORING

SIAM

Y HOT SPOTS

Siam’s Top 3 Restaurants

!8 Sra Bua By Kiin Kiin The Bangkokian sister of Copenhagen’s molecular gastronomy restaurant Kiin Kiin, which, after David Thompson’s London restaurant Nahm (now in Bangkok), became the second restaurant in the world to receive a Michelin star for cooking Thai food. Lobby/F, Siam Kempinski Hotel, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. Open daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm. BTS Siam

NEW 2 SIAM DISCOVERY A top-to-bottom renovation and total overhaul of the stores inside has really made this once-aging mall a must-visit destination for any shopper. As well as all the big international brands, you’ll find a big focus on the best of local, Thai-made design. Don’t miss O.D.S., a store dedicated to award-winning home decor, jewelry and accessories brands, or the selection of Japanese cult labels like Issey Miyake, Yoshio Kubo and Discord by Yoji Yamamoto. The mall itself is also pretty spectacular, created by Japanese design house Nendo. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam.

Mango Mojito (Siam Square Soi 2, 02658-1435). If Siam Square is Bangkok’s fashion nursery, then 5 Siam Center (Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000) is its grad-

MANGO MOJITO

SHOP The actual Siam Square (the area on the opposite side of the Skytrain to Siam Paragon and Siam Center malls) is divided into 11 alleys of miniscule shops rented to independent fashion brands and restaurants. It’s like a training ground for young Thai designers, before the best ones graduate to the fancier malls across the street. Highlights include the original branch of cult-label 1 Issue (Siam Square Soi 3, 02-658-4416), 2 Dancing Riot (Me & Sons x Selektiv, Siam Square Soi 2, 02-658-4863), minimal womenswear brand 3 WWA (Siam Square Soi 7, 02-658-4686) and dapper men’s shoe specialist 4

SIAM CENTER

uating class, where the very best local labels can be found. On the third floor, shop for industry leaders like Greyhound, Kloset, Senada and Soda as well as younger brands including Milin and Something Boudoir—or let the multilabel stores Gin & Milk, The Selected and The Wonder Room pick the best for you. 6 Siam Paragon (991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-8000) also has a floor for Thai designers, but the real highlight is its lavish VIP cinema and world class

Sea Life aquarium. Most recently, 2 Siam Discovery has undergone a huge renovation to place new focus on Thai and Japanese designers. The results are a shopper’s paradise (see box). 7 Gaysorn Plaza (999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-1149) has luxury shops including Louis Vuitton and Prada, while you’ll also find high-end locally made craftsmanship at furniture specialist Alexander Lamont and luxury jewelry brand Matina Amanita. The biggest mall is 8 CentralWorld (Ratchadamri Rd., 02-640-7000), with more restaurants and shops than anywhere town. If you’re in the market for electronic goods, 9 MBK (444 Phayathai Rd.,

GAYSORN PLAZA

8 Taling Pling This restaurant specializes in fussfree Thai dishes. Favorites include the delicious klua gling moo gradook on (Southern-style stir-fried baby back ribs with herbs), a perfect combination of salty and mildly spicy. 3/F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-613-1657. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chit Lom. Also at 6 Siam Paragon

!4 Thompson Bar & Restaurant Located at the end of a non-descript soi, in the same leafy compound as the Jim Thompson Thai House, Thompson Bar & Restaurant shares the traditional home’s refined atmosphere. The restaurant excels in Western and fusion recipes. Try their larb spaghetti (spicy spaghetti salad) or stir-fried soft-shell crab with black pepper. 6/1 Soi Kasaemsan 2, 02-612-3601. Open daily 10:30 am-6pm. BTS National Stadium.

20 W H E R E T H A I LAND I J ULY 2 0 1 6

Exploring_01_July_2016_Siam_New.indd 20

6/24/16 6:46 PM


EXPLORING

SIAM

From khao-kaeng (street stalls that sell ready-made dishes on top of rice) to rooftop fine dining, Siam has it all. For street eats, head to the little alley behind Novotel Hotel in Siam Square (between soi 5 and 6) or to the second floor of the Lido cinema (Siam Square, 02-2512861). Siam Square is also home to the original branch of beloved comfort

Ruamrudee, 02-168-5152)—another popular cocktail spot. Cut through CentralWorld and you’ll be rewarded with incredible views at 8 Red Sky Bar (02100-1234), high up on the roof of Centara Grand at CentralWorld.

DRINK

!4 Jim Thompson House (Soi Kasem San 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368), the former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson, is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. The corner of Phayathai Road is also home to !5 Bangkok Art and Cultural Center (939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630) where you’ll find exhibitions by local artists both new and established. In-

RED SKY BAR

SEE AND DO

Siam Square is not a nightlife area at all. Most of the shops outside of malls close at 7pm. But there is a buzzing bar scene at Groove, the dedicated dining and nightlife annex at CentralWorld shopping mall. Here you’ll find niche beer bar 8 HOBS (02-613-1322), gastro-bar and cocktail specialist 8 1881 by Water Library (02-613-1774) and 8 Hyde & Seek Peek-a-Boo (02-646-1099), the young offshoot of nearby Hyde & Seek (65/1 Athenee Residence, Soi

SOMTAM NUA

Thai food chain !0 Baanying Cafe & Meal (G/F, Siam Kit Building, 02-6644510, also at Siam Center). !1 Somtam Nua (Siam Square Soi 5, 02-251-4880, also at Siam Center) is the area’s most iconic restaurant. Be prepared to wait

Phe

tch

abu

ri R

d.

!8

!5

5

m Stati

on

Rama 1 Rd. tation

Chit Lo

!7 .

!0 unat Rd

!3

7

Soi 6

!2 !1

Henri D

Soi 5

Soi 3

Soi 10

3

Soi 7

!6 8

Soi 8

1 4

Soi 2

Soi 1

Soi 11

hai Rd. Phaya T

6

Siam S

9

Soi 4

Stadiu

Soi 9

Nation

2

BACC

1 Issue 2 Siam Discovery 3 WWA 4 Mango Mojito 5 Siam Center 6 Siam Paragon 7 Gaysorn Plaza 8 CentralWorld/Groove/Centara - Uno Mas - Taling Pling - Din Tai Fung - HOBS - 1881 by Water Library - Hyde & Seek Peek-a-Boo - Red Sky 9 MBK !0 Baanying Cafe and Meal (Siam Kit Branch) !1 Somtam Nua !2 Seefah !3 Baan Khun Mae !4 Jim Thompson House !5 Bangkok Art and Cultural Center !6 Patumwanaram Temple !7 Erawan Shrine !8 Sra Bua

Klong San Sab

!4

side you’ll also find the independent book store Hardcover and Gallery Drip Cafe—both well worth a visit. The area also has two stunning religious sites. !6 Patumwanaram Temple is hidden between Siam Paragon and CentralWorld on Rama 1 Road. Even for Thais, this often-overlooked temple is a real treat, like something from the countryside transplanted to the city. Bangkok’s uniquely Hindu-influenced strain of Buddhism is evidenced at the !7 Erawan Shrine, located right outside Erawan shopping mall. The shrine represents Phra Phrom, Thailand’s representative of the Hindu god of creation. Here you’ll find Thais from across the city coming to pray and make wishes (mostly for lovers)—but you have to hire the dance troupe if you want that wish to come true.

m Stati

on

amri Sta tion Ratchad amri Rd .

EAT

with a long line of students to try their somtam (papaya salad) and legendary crispy chicken. Another Thai food landmark is !2 Seefah (Siam Square Soi 9, 02-251-5517), an 80-year-old diner that serves Chinese-style Thai food. For a bit of vernacular, !3 Baan Khun Mae (Siam Square Soi 8, 02-658-4112) is set in a Thai-style wooden house serving traditional Thai dishes. Some of the best Cantonese cusine in town is served at 6 Crystal Jade (G/F, Siam Paragon, 02-610-9363), while Michelin-star dumpling empire 8 Din Tai Fung (7/F, CentralWorld, 02-646-1282) is renowned for its xiao long bao (soup-filled steamed dumplings).

Ratchad

02-620-9000) is a mecca for cameras, phones and headphones (though beware of fakes) as well as watches and fashion of dubious pedigree.

JULY 2016 I W HERE THA ILA N D 21

Exploring_01_July_2016_Siam_New.indd 21

6/24/16 6:46 PM


ThewhereGuide JULY 2016 | BANGKOK

NEW

OSHA CAFE

Comfortably the chicest place to dine at the Asiatique riverside open-air mall comes from the same team as the Thai fine-dining restaurant Osha in town. Here though, things are a little more laidback, with a space that blends contemporary design quirks with an easygoing attitude. The Thai dishes might sound familiar, but the food here is anything but plain, whether it’s a beautifully presented pad Thai or rich and decadent massaman curry. Don’t miss the mango sticky rice and young coconut ice cream for dessert. Asiatique the Riverfront, Warehouse 10, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-046-9441. Open daily 5-11:45pm

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 23 DINING 26 NIGHTLIFE

28 SHOP 29 HEALTH & WELLNESS

30 ATTRACTIONS 31 ART

32 NAVIGATE

22 W H E R E T H A ILAND I J ULY 2 0 1 6

The guide_July_2016.indd 22

6/23/16 2:58 PM


GUIDE

DINING NEW

Y

BAAN PHADTHAI

Restaurateur Fred Meyer, the guy behind Issaya, Namsaah, Kombawa and Pizza Massilia, has opened this charming little Thai restaurant. As the name suggests, Baan Phadthai is devoted to pad Thai, delicately made with a “secret” 18-ingredient sauce, Chanthaburi noodles, house-dried shrimps, duck egg and crab fat. You can opt for grilled pork, grilled chicken grilled river prawn or blue crab meat on top of your pad Thai, or go for a vegetarian option. Their appetizers are no less appealing. Try miang kana (Chinese kale leaf wraps), which let you gather up all the ingrediets to wrap yourself. For dessert, the creamy durian steamed buns stand out with their unique smell and approachable taste. 21-23 Charoenkrung Soi 44, 02-060-5553. Open daily 11am-10pm. BTS Saphan Taksin

Y SPOTLIGHT

Hot Spots BEST OF ASIA

CHEF MAN

1 Lady Brett (72 Courtyard) The highlight of Thonglor’s hip 72 Courtyard is this casual, European tavern-referencing barbecue specialist. Amid tiled walls, rich leather dining chairs and geometric lighting sculptures, the kitchen dishes out things such as tomahawk steak and salt-baked fish alongside delicious and creative veggie dishes like smoked burrata with charred kale, air-dried mullet roe and sourdough toast. The cocktails are also excellent. Pre-dinner, try the Bitter Frenchman (Hennessy V.S, umeshu, Aperol and bitters). 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-7626. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight

CHEF MAN

Chef Man has made a big impression on the local dining scene by serving up some of the best dim sum in the city, along with dishes that add interesting Thai touches (and require reservations days in advance). The Peking duck comes with slices of ripe mango, and the lava buns are arguably the best in town. For a taste of authentic Chef Man magic, head to the original branch in the Eastin Grand Sathorn Hotel, where the dining room is serviced by a large open kitchen and a veritable army of chefs. Other branches at Samut Prakarn (Thana City Sports Club), 02- 3360879, 093-321-1135, 093-321-1191 Ratchadamri Road (Royal Place 2), 02-651-8611, 02-651-8612, 093-539-9927 3/F, Eastin Grand Sathorn, Sathorn Rd., 02-2123741, 02-212-3789. Open daily 11am-3pm, 6-10pm. BTS Surasak

2

CHARCOAL TANDOOR GRILL & MIXOLOGY

The contemporary and the traditional collide in this mix of modern dark latticework, contrasted with traditional wood furniture and copper artifacts from India. Observe the chefs’ expertise through a large window to the kitchen, where they busily operate three ornate tandoor ovens. Pair each of the sharing courses with a special Indian cocktail menu created by none other than Bangkok’s hottest mixologist, Joseph Boroski.

5/F, Fraser Suites, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111, 089-307-1111. Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Nana

GAGGAN

3

GAGGAN

Chef Gaggan Anand’s name went around the world when his eponymous restaurant was named Asia’s 50 Best’s No. 1 restaurant in 2015, a feat a followed up this year. Each night, in a classically restored house on Langsuan Road, the chef’s team offers a tasting menu where diners’ expectations of Indian food are first thrown overboard and then blown out of the water by Gaggan’s El Bulli-influenced creativity. 68/1 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-1700. Open daily 6pmmidnight. BTS Ratchadamri

JULY 2016 I W HERE THA ILA N D 23

Dinning_July_2016_NEW.indd 23

6/24/16 6:53 PM


Y

TASTE OF THE CITY

DINING HONG KONG Recent Openings

COCOTTE

Sukhumvit Soi 39’s rusticated steak and roast specialist. G/F, 39 Boulevard, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 092664-6777. BTS Phrom Phong

MAN FU YUAN KITCHEN

Singapore’s famed dim sum restaurant opens a more casual Bangkok branch. Man Fu Yuan Kitchen, 6/F, Emquartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6240. BTS Phrom Phong

CHAR

Bangkok’s latest rooftop restaurant comes all the way from Shanghai. 25-26/F, Hotel Indigo, 81 Wireless Rd., 02-207-4999.

Advertise your business with us ­ starting from B5,000

BURGERS AND BANGERS

Asoke’s latest burger specialist is the real deal. Sukhumvit Rd., between soi 18-20, 097-2834598. BTS Asoke

Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Credit card payment accepted.

24 W H E R E T H A I LAND I DECEMBER 2 0 1 1 I www.wheretraveler.com

Dinning_July_2016_NEW.indd 24

6/24/16 6:54 PM


GUIDE

DINING THAI FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS

4

SUSHI HINATA

One of the sushi restaurants that actual sushi chefs patronize, Sushi Hinata specializes in omakase-style service in which the chefs prepare whatever’s fresh that day for the diner at the counter. With branches in Nagoya and Malaysia, Sushi Hinata hopes to make its mark in the Japanese restaurant-heavy dining scene here with its great attention to detail and exemplary ingredients. While dinners can obviously run on the pricey side, lunch sets can glean unexpected bargains.

5/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5935. Open daily 11am-9pm. BTS Phloen Chit

ZUMA

5

BO.LAN

ZUMA

The surroundings as well as the food lures the rich and beautiful to Zuma. Bamboo, granite and glass dominate the dining area with its vast open kitchen, making this a great place to enjoy dishes like black cod marinated in saikyo miso or sliced sea bass with yuzu truffle oil. But the big, expansive bar also makes Zuma an exemplary watering hole, especially if you opt for one of the restaurant’s signature cocktails.

Blue Elephant The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonialstyle mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts. Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavor. While more modern Thai restaurants have lately grabbed most column inches, Blue Elephant is still worth a visit for both atmosphere and food. 233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm . BTS Surasak

Y

SUSHI HINATA

G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-2524707. Open daily 11:30am-3pm; Sun-Thu 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 6-11:30pm. BTS Ratchadamri

Bo.lan Featuring fine Thai cuisine made using traditional methods and the best ingredients, Bo.lan—an amalgam of chef-couple Bo and Dylan Jones’s names— has made a splash in the global dining world with its aromatic curries, beautifully plated salads and artfully conceived menu. Adding to the allure is a striking dining room, set in an old house replete with tropical garden and close to hipster thoroughfare Soi Thonglor. Try the “Bo.lan balance,” a menu which changes along with the seasons. 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2961-2. Open Tue-Sun 6-10:30pm; Sat-Sun noon-2:30pm. BTS Thong Lo

Issaya Siamese Club Issaya is a refreshingly vibrant modern Thai restaurant set in a beautifully restored house, whose upstairs includes exquisite private rooms. Make your way down the long driveway and tyhrough the charming garden before finding a seat among the bright blue walls and artifacts emanating Thai heritage. All-star chef Ian Kittichai’s meticulously presented menu brings dishes which are unique, yet simultaneously truly Thai. The rich massaman curry prepared with tender lamb shank is not to be missed. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chuaphloeng Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-1am. MRT Khlong Toei

Nahm Still considered the “must-go” destination of every aspiring foodie in Bangkok, Nahm—helmed by Australian chef David Thompson—does Thai food made with the very finest ingredients using the most traditional methods. The most popular offerings at Nahm are the set menus, which usually feature dishes like blue swimmer crab curry with fermented rice noodles and the salad of fresh river prawns and Asian pennywort served in communal, Thai-style fashion. Metropolitan by COMO, 27 Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3388. Open daily 7-10:30pm; Mon-Fri noon-2pm

JULY 2016 I W HERE THA ILA N D 25

Dinning_July_2016_NEW.indd 25

6/24/16 6:54 PM


Y

GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE NEW

RARB

Larb is a delicious Thai spicy meat salad that packs a sharp and powerful chili kick and is simply not to be missed. It’s also the specialty drinking snack of this cool new bar on Phra Athit Road, which takes the simple, street-food staple and dishes it out in a hipster setting with no compromise in flavor, alongside some truly amazing cocktails. Owner Van Rohitratana is native to Isaan, the region of Thailand where larb comes from, and is also behind the wildly popular Escapade burgers right round the corner. The fun, compact space has a bit of a construction site feel—stickered and sprayed zinc roof sheets and bare, cracked concrete—and also features a very wellstocked bar. Phra Arthit Rd., 081-406-3773. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight

Hot Spots

BEST BARS FOR THAI DRINKS

3

LET THE BOY DIE

1

LET THE BOY DIE

Bangkok is awash with craft beer bars, but this is one spot where you can break away from the American bottled imports and find something really exciting: local brews, by the bottle and on tap. The owners are the same guys behind the local Golden Coins brewery, and have an inside line to the tastiest ales around. The crumbling walls, hanging plants and communal tables also make this one seriously special drinking spot.

BADMOTEL

This inventive creation is housed in a run-down three-story building in the middle of one of Bangkok’s top nightlife streets. The once-abandoned interior has been left with plenty of imperfections, in stark contrast to its sleek white paint job with neon accents. Regular music events take place on the second floor, while the sizable downstairs garden is great for the cooler months. Both the cocktails and food come with signature Thai touches. Next to J Ave., Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02712-7288. Open daily 5pm-1am

5

TEP BAR

This restored shop-house has plenty of raw appeal, and specializes in potent cocktails mixed with Thai fruits, herbs and spices. There’s also a good line of home-infused ya dong as well as a kitchen dishing out Thai tapas (as well as a few classics like pad Thai). Come nightfall, enjoy your meal while Thai musicians take the stage to play traditional music from the Central region. Room 69-71, Soi Nana, 098-467-2944. Open TueThu 5pm-midnight; Sun 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat 5pm-1am. MRT Hua Lamphong

Y SPOTLIGHT

542 Luang Rd., 082-675-9673, 080-599-6177. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight.

2

NAMSAAH BOTTLING TRUST

One of the partners behind this 100-yearold house painted pink is acclaimed chef Ian Kittichai, meaning you can get some incredible Thai and Asian-inspired tapas plates. But the real draw here is the cocktail menu, which serves up a long list of classics given local twists. We love the Thai rose-apple martine, as well as the Sangsom caramel whiskey sour. 401 Silom Soi 7, 02-636-6622. Open daily 5pm2am. BTS Chong Nonsi

TEP BAR

4

STUDIO LAM

This bar on the super-hip Sukhumvit Soi 51 pairs global beats with quality drinks. Named after local DJ Maft Sai’s Zudrangma Records, the space may look fairly basic, bearing the remnants of an old Japanese restaurant that used to be there, but the star of the show is a specially designed custom tube sound system which pumps out everything from molam to acid jazz. The bar also boasts the most exciting list of ya dong (a herbal spirit) in the city. Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-2am. BTS Thong Lo

Bamboo Bar Opened back in 1953, this hotel bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. Singers take the mic at 9pm daily, accompanied by music from a baby grand and surrounded by framed portraits of jazz legends who’ve passed through over the years. What’s more, the bar also does some of the best cocktails in town, whether its signature classics like the Mekhong rum-laced Thaijito or modern takes on classics such as a delicious barrel-aged negroni. 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoenkrung Soi 40 (Oriental Ave.), 02-659-9000. Open Sun-Thu 5pm1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. BTS Saphan Taksin.

26 W H E R E T H A I LAND I J ULY 2 0 1 6

Nightlife_July_2016_New.indd 26

6/24/16 6:55 PM


We provide inside & outside massage service 24 hour 7 Days/week

What a great way to end a hectic day of travel, work or sightseeing ❀ Foot Massage & Foot Scrub

999 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Traditional Thai Massage

999 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Oil/Aromatherapy Oil Massage

999 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ 4 Hands Massage

1,499 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Thai Massage & Body Scrub

1,499 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Aromatherapy Oil & Body Scrub

1,499 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ 4 Hands Massage & Body Scrub

1,999 THB/ 2 Hrs

Call us to schedule your appointment at

Address: 6/9 Soi Phom Sri 1, Sukhumvit 39 Klongton-Nua, Wattana Bangkok 10110

Mobile. 082-111-2213, Tel. 02-662-6623.

www.baanthaitouch.com. Nearest BTS: Phom Phong Station

JULY 2016 I W HERE THA ILA N D 27

Nightlife_July_2016.indd 27

6/23/16 6:08 PM


Y

GUIDE

SHOPS+SERVICES OBJECT OF DESIGN STORE (O.D.S.) NEW

You’d have to look long and hard to find better contemporary Thai design than the beautiful pieces at this studio. Straying from the other imported big brand names at this shopping mall, O.D.S. focuses on affordable home decor pieces, jewelry and other accessories from breakthrough Thai names including the Demark Award-winning labels Trimode and Plural Designs, ceramics from Yarnnakarn Art & Craft Studio, and pop art-inspired furniture from 56th Studio and Cast. Other up-and-coming names to look out for include Sur (table lamps), R.Noo Studio, Ce’halo (ceramics) and Patapian (wooden home decor). 3/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd. Open daily 10am10pm. BTS National Stadium

Hot Spots

1

MARKETS CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET

5

This daily market runs along the river on the lesser visited Thonburi side, next to Siriraj Hospital, and is filled with locals of all ages every day. Stalls sell everything from food to toys, but the majority of the buzz centers on secondhand clothes for men and women—all at incredibly low prices. Most visitors reach the market by boat from Sathron Pier or Prachan Pier.

Chatuchak weekend market can be a daunting shopping experience. The sprawling web of 15,000 stalls is one of the world’s largest markets, spread over a 70-rai plot of land. You’ll find everything from food, furniture, books, plants, clothes and antiques to puppies and exotic pets. Section 3, just outside the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station, is the most design-forward part of the market, home to both established and up-and-coming Thai artists. Next to Chatuchak Park, Kamphaeng Phet Rd., Open SatSun 9am-6pm. MRT Kamphaeng Phet/BTS Mo Chit

WANG LANG MARKET

Siriraj Pier, Wang Lang Rd. Open daily 10am-6pm PAK KLONG TALAD

3

PAK KLONG TALAD

Y SPOTLIGHT

At Bangkok’s largest flower market, flowers from around Thailand (and the world) arrive before being distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers. you’ll find everything from local jasmine to imported red roses. The market is open 24 hours with different atmospheres during day and night. The liveliest period is perhaps from midnight4am, when the day’s batch of fresh flowers start to arrive, and the authentic trading action is in place.

CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET

2

GREEN VINTAGE NIGHT MARKET

Just a stone’s throw from Chatuchak Weekend Market, this impressively funky space blends a low-key selection of fashionable clothing stalls with rows of industrial-slash-retro drinking parlors. Expect a down-to-earth crowd rummaging through keepsakes such as fashion items, antiques and home decor. For ‘80s and ‘90s kids, there are lots of old-school toys like Tamagotchi and Nintendo devices.

3 Kamphaeng Phet Rd., 092-461-5951. Open Thu-Sun 5pm-midnight. MRT Kamphaeng Phet/BTS Mo Chit

From Memorial Bridge to Khlong Lord, Chak Phet Rd. Open daily 6-6am

4

TALAD ROD FAI

This vintage market is home to small stalls selling all sorts of retro bric-a-brac, from antique toys and vinyl to secondhand clothes and cameras. There are also plenty of vintage-inspired bars and cafes. To reach it, take the BTS to Udomsuk and then take a taxi. Don’t be put off if all you see on arrival is plastic junk—the best finds are at the back of the market.

Sri Nakarin Soi 51, 081-827-5885. Open Thu-Sun 5pm1am

JIM THOMPSON (SURAWONG) The original, main store of this pioneering Thai silk brand stocks silk clothes and accessories across its significant three floors. The space is classic and palatial, paneled with teak from wall to wall, and shows off a range of elegant silks, from pillowcases and scarves to clubby neckties. There are other branches at Jim Thompson House (a must-visit within the walking distance of BTS National Stadium) as well as various malls and five-star hotels around Bangkok. 9 Surawong Rd., 02-632-8100. Open daily 9am-9pm. BTS Sala Daeng

28 W H E R E T H A I LAND I J ULY 2 0 1 6

Shopping_July_2016_New.indd 28

6/24/16 6:57 PM


GUIDE

HEALTH + WELLNESS NEW

Y

911BYJT

Want to combine a trip to Chatuchack Market with a serious workout? This nearby fitness complex is huge—easily one of the biggest in the city—and offers all kinds of different classes. It’s like a community space for fitness freaks, all hinged around Thai boxing, dance classes, yoga and open gym. In the same facility you’ll also find a clean-eating restaurant (Calories Project), cafe (The Coffee Society) and a barber shop (Never Say Cutz). 56 Prasertmanukij Rd., 02-157-1715, 087-5955559

Hot Spots ACTIVE DAYS OUT

3

THAI WAKE PARK

This state-of-the-art wakeboarding and waterskating park features five-tower cables, three-tower cables, a pool-gap and beginner cables, making the venue accessible to visitors of all levels. The family-friendly space also boasts a carefully-designed lake with top-notch screwless obstacles and an island in the middle to eliminate any unpleasant waves and ripples. Be sure to make reservations before you go, as the park attracts a big crowd, especially during the weekends.

1

FLOW HOUSE BANGKOK

FLOW HOUSE BANGKOK

The big attraction at this urban water park is its FlowRider, a wave machine that lets you try your hand at standup surfing and bodyboarding. Entry is completely free, while use of the wave machine is charged by the hour including equipment and instruction. Other facilities include a plunge pool, games like pool, ping pong, darts and foosball, plus an on-site cafe. A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-108-5210. Open daily 10am-midnight

2

ROCK DOMAIN

Soi Sudsawas, Lieab Klong 6 Rd, 18/4 Rd., 02-9047722. Open Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm; Sat-Sun 9am6:30pm

4

5

THE FIGHT LAB

With 310 sq meters of space looking out onto Benjasiri Park, this isn’t your dingy underground fight club. It’s clean, its vast and it manages to feel welcoming to newbies, while having plenty of competitive cred for the aspiring champs out there. They offer training in muay Thai, boxing, mixed martial arts (MMA), and Brazilian jiu-jitsu (submission grappling). Private training, small group training and regular classes available. 32/6 Sukhumvit Soi 69, 02-391-1754. Open daily 7am-9pm. BTS Phrom Phong

Y SPOTLIGHT

TRAINING GROUND

Located in a 1,200-sq-meter warehouse, this training facility is dubbed the biggest Crossfit gym in Asia. It boasts strong coaching staff and world-class equipment that caters to members and visitors of all levels, such as Olympic-lifting platforms, pullup bars, bumper plates and Concept-2 rowers. Apart from the fitness facilities, the gym also houses a cafe serving fresh coffee and protein shakes. 36/2 Sukhumvit Soi 69, 094-479-6988. Open Mon-Fri 7am-9pm; Sat-Sun 9am-3pm. BTS Phra Khanong

This rock climbing gym encourages you to climb for exercise and get some practice in before hitting the real heights in Southern Thailand. Spread over 1,100 sq meters, it offers different climbing walls for all levels, including lead climbing, top rope climbing and bouldering, with trainers on duty at all times. Routes are also reset every week to ensure personal improvement. Yoga and fitness rooms are available, too, along with a cafe and climbing store if you’re looking to get serious.

Oasis Spa Set in a stylish compound, this spa’s cool white exterior gives way to 15 treatment rooms decorated in a Thai Lanna style. The King of Oasis features a two-hour hot Thai herbal muscle compress and a hot oil massage. Ladies can opt for the two-hour Queen of Oasis, which blends Swedish and aromatherapy massages. They also have other a la carte and package treatments for hair, body and face.

1780 Bangna-Trad Rd., 02-399-4648. Open Mon-Fri 11am-10pm; Sat 10am-10pm; Sun 10am-9pm TRAINING GROUND

64 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-262-2122. Open daily 10am10pm

JULY 2016 I W HERE THA ILA N D 29

Health&Wellness_July_2016.indd 29

6/23/16 2:42 PM


Y

GUIDE

ATTRACTIONS NEW

NOIR

BARBERFORD

Bangkok has not been immune to the hipster barbershop trends sweeping the globe: black wood panelling, whiskey in hand, hairdresser with improbably facial hair. Barberford takes things down a notch, though, and focuses on the basics. You get a private room (for those adverse to getting their locks trimmed in the public eye) and the hairdressers tend to be of the scissor-happy school, eschewing clippers except for finishing touches. This being Thailand, it’s all topped off with a little shoulder and arm rub along with your shampoo. M/F, Siam Discovery, 061-680-8822. Open daily 11am-8pm. BTS National Stadium

Hot Spots LUXURY CINEMAS

3

ENIGMA AT PARAGON CINEPLEX

One of the most prestigious cinemas in Bangkok offers spacious sofa beds where guests can lie down amid pillows and blankets while watching a movie with a glass of wine in hand. The ticket price includes food, too, ranging from proper meals to select dessert options as well as a variety of alcoholic breverages.

EMBASSY CINEPLEX

1

EMBASSY CINEPLEX

Sit back in a cocoon-style first-class airplane pod equipped with its own minifridge and enjoy the latest blockbusters projected on state-of-the-art screens aided by the latest sound technology. The complex has a total of five theaters, with other screens equipped with luxurious daybeds and giant sofas. Be sure to check the official website for tickets and showtimes.

5-6/F, Siam Paragon, 991/1, Rama 1 Rd., 02-129- 4635. BTS Siam

4

QUARTIER CINE-ART

This spot’s major selling feature is an incredibly immersive True Screen X theater, which offers a 270-degree field of vision. At the luxurious AEON Theater, you get a pre-movie set meal from the high-end deli Dean & DeLuca and bed-like seating, while the SCB First Screen theater is known for its sound system featuring 64 speakers.

5

BANGKOK AIRWAYS’ BLUE RIBBON SCREENS AT PARAGON CINEPLEX

The best thing about this cinema is that tickets come with a 15-minute massage at the cinema’s own spa room. You also get to enjoy the movie with a Starbucks coffee or tea set, popcorn and soft drink, or even a glass of wine. The big reclining armchairs are spaced plenty far away from other couples, while blankets and pillows ensure total comfort. 5-6/F, Siam Paragon, 991/1, Rama 1 Rd., 02-129- 4635. BTS Siam

Y SPOTLIGHT

4/F, Emquartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-261-0199. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

6/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605999. BTS Phloen Chit

2

EMPRIVE CINECLUB

Bounce Thailand

Located at the luxurious Emporium shopping complex, this cinema consists of five theaters split between Executive, Executive Suite and First Class seat categories, with all options equipped with the latest technology including world-class surround sound outputs. On top of this, blankets and pillows are provided with every seat, while First Class guests also gain access to the lounge and bar outside the cinema.

5/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-268-8899. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

QUARTIER CINE-ART

At Asia’s biggest trampoline park, you can bounce about in a giant room packed with 80 interconnecting trampolines—whether it’s for serious exercise or simply to have some fun. The Free Jumping zone lets you ping around at leisure or practice some pro moves, while the Bounce Fit zone shows you just about the most fun way possible to keep in shape. Kids can join too (aged three and above), with the Mini Bounce Zone offering a safe environment for them to play. 5/F, The St. Ratchada, New Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-0142446. Open daily 10am-10pm. MRT Thailand Cultural Centre

30 W H E R E T H A I LAND I J ULY 2 0 1 6

Attractions_July_2016.indd 30

6/23/16 2:23 PM


GUIDE

ART

Y

ATMOSFEAR Artist Yuree Kensaku has spent the past four months transforming the walls of Tonson Gallery into a large-scale mural depicting an alternative universe with eccentric characters representing her hopes and fears in a colorful and surreal style.Tonson is one of Bangkok's foremost contemporary art galleries, regularly welcoming high profile local artists. The gallery's greatest pride is its ability to take Thai artists abroad, and it was the first Thai gallery to participate at Art Basel, in Switzerland. Located in a beautiful modern building down a leafy soi, 100 Tonson was designed by renowned French designer Christian Liaigre. Through Nov 27. 100 Tonson Gallery, 100 Soi Tonson, Phloen Chit Rd. BTS Phloen Chit

Hot Spots TOP EXHIBITIONS THIS MONTH

1

KARAOKE TWILIGHT

Y SPOTLIGHT

Taweewit Kijtanasoonthorn’s latest solo exhibition presents a collection of photographs capturing the life of Bangkok’s karaoke bars, and how their exterior of colorful neon lights is usually a façade to the hidden loneliness that lies beneath. Through Jul 31. Bangkok Art and Cultural Center, 939 Rama 1 Rd. BTS National Stadium SOM

3

SOM

Nipon Intarit’s photo exhibition explores religion and how it affects human identity with questions on morality and superior command. Through Jul 31. RMA Institute, Soi Sainamthip 2, Sukhumvit Soi 22

I WRITE YOU A LOT

2

I WRITE YOU A LOT

For his first solo exhibition, screenwriter Nawapol Thamrongrattanarit, known for his movies Freelance and Mary is Happy, Mary Happy, presents a unique experience in which participants are invited to meet the artist for a session in which he will write a short script about your character as well as photograph you to be exhibited in the gallery space. Please bring your own earphones for the exhibition.

4

CAPTURING THE INTANGIBLE

Sanitas Pradittasnee presents 10 sculptures and art installations that she has constructed to explore life’s meaning and a journey from an outer layer to a core. The artwork focuses on forms of belief and assigned meanings in life. Jul 7-Aug 13. The Art Center, Chulalongkorn University, Phayathai Rd.

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) Set in the bustling Pathumwan area just across the road from Siam Square and MBK, this public art center has become a popular hot-spot for the people of Bangkok. Aside from the contemporary art exhibitions, BACC also contains small, designcentric stores, ranging from cafes and restaurants to book shops. The top floor also boasts a movie theater, complete with a decent-sized stage for live performances.

Through Aug 7. Bangkok CityCity Gallery, 13/3 Sathorn Soi 1, 083-087-2725.

CAPTURING THE INTANGIBLE

939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630-8. Open Tue-Sun 10am9pm. BTS National Stadium

JULY 2016 I W HERE THA ILA N D 31

Art_July_2016.indd 31

6/23/16 6:57 PM


Y

GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

Phahon Yothin ¾ËÅâ¸Թ

Chatuchak Park Êǹ¨µØ¨Ñ¡Ã

Chao Phraya River áÁ‹¹้Ó਌ҾÃÐÂÒ

Kamphaeng Phet ¡ÓᾧྪÃ

Bang Sue ºÒ§«×่Í

Ratchadapisek ÃѪ´ÒÀÔàÉ¡

Mo Chit ËÁͪԵ

2

Sutthisan ÊØ·¸ÔÊÒÃ

Saphan Khwai Êоҹ¤ÇÒÂ

Huai Khwang ËÑÇ¢ÇÒ§

Ari ÍÒÃÕÂ

Thailand Cultural Centre Èٹ ÇѲ¹¸ÃÃÁáË‹§»ÃÐà·Èä·Â

Sanam Pao ʹÒÁ໇Ò

!0

Ratchawithi Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒªÇÔ¶Õ

3

Phra Athit ·‹ÒàÃ×;ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Victory Monument ͹ØàÊÒÇÃÕÂ

4

To Suvarnabhumi Airport

Phaya Thai ¾ÞÒä·

5

!7

7 Tha Chang ·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒªŒÒ§

!5!6

Sukhumvit ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

!8 Chit Lom ªÔ´ÅÁ

Siam ÊÂÒÁ

Ratchadamri ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

Phloen Chit à¾ÅÔ¹¨Ôµ

Nana ¹Ò¹Ò

Asok ÍâÈ¡

!4

!3

!2

Phetchaburi ྪúØÃÕ

Ramkhamhaeng ÃÒÁ¤Óá˧

Phetchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ªÃºØÃÕ

Ratchathewi ÃÒªà·ÇÕ

National Stadium ʹÒÁ¡ÕÌÒ áË‹§ªÒµÔ

Makkasan ÁÑ¡¡ÐÊѹ

Ratchaprarop ÃÒª»ÃÒö

Phaya Thai ¾ÞÒä·

Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´Óà¹Ô¹¡ÅÒ§

6 Wang Lang ·‹ÒàÃ×Í ÇѧËÅѧ

Phra Ram 9 ¾ÃÐÃÒÁ 9

Phrom Phong ¾ÃŒÍÁ¾§É

Thong Lo ·Í§ËÅ‹Í Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

Queen Sirikit National Conv. Centre Èٹ »ÃЪØÁ áË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Phra Khanong ¾ÃÐ⢹§

Yaowarat Rd.

8

!1

Tha Tien ·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒàµÕ¹

Ratcha wong ·‹ÒàÃ×Í ÃҪǧ¤

Sam Yan ÊÒÁ‹ҹ

Hua Lamphong ËÑÇÅÓ⾧

Si Phraya ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÕ¾ÃÐÂÒ

Lumphini ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Silom ÊÕÅÁ

Bang Chak ºÒ§¨Ò¡

Khlong Toei ¤ÅͧàµÂ

Punnawithi »Ø³³ÇÔ¶Õ

Sala Daeng ÈÒÅÒá´§

9 m

Silo

Á

¹ÊÕÅ

¹ .¶

Rd

Chong Nonsi ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ

Oriental ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕ¹àµÅ

d.

nR hor

Udom Suk ÍØ´ÁÊØ¢

à ÊÒ·

¶¹¹

Bang Na ºÒ§¹Ò

Sat

Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã

To Bang Wa Station

Surasak ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Chao Phraya River áÁ‹¹้Ó਌ҾÃÐÂÒ

1 Rama III Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ 3

Key

Bearing áºÃÔ่§

Sukhumvit Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

Saphan Taksin Êоҹ µÒ¡ÊÔ¹

Krung Thon Buri ¡Ãا¸¹ºØÃÕ

1 Asiatique the Riverfont

!0 Victory Monument

Main road

2 Chatuchak Market

!1 Yaowarat (Chinatown)

BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

3 Vimanmek Mansion

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumphini Park

MRT

5 Khao San Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

!5 Siam Paragon

River/Klong (canal)

7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

!6 CentralWorld and Zen

8 Wat Pho

!7 Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

9 Wat Arun

!8 Central Chidlom, Central Embassy

Pier

Y

On Nut ͋͹¹Øª

FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

32 W H E R E T H A I LAND I J ULY 2 0 1 6

Navigate_July_2016.indd 32

6/23/16 2:49 PM


GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Y

Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS­ Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130. The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS­ While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 JULY 2016 I W HERE THA ILA N D 33

Navigate_July_2016.indd 33

6/23/16 2:50 PM


Y

21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

2

6

!2

!5

1 Sampling molecular Indian dishes at one of Asia’s best restaurants, Gaggan. See page 23.

7 Heading up to the top of Hotel Indigo to check out Char, the latest rooftop bar in town. See page 26.

2 Grabbing a beer and shopping for vintage bargains at the Rod Fai Night Market. See page 28.

8 Browsing through some of

3 Indulging in fresh sushi and sashimi flown in straight from the famous Japanese Tsukiji Market and prepared by master chef Yoshiki Yamada at Suhi Hinata. See page 23. 4 Leaning back on one of the spacious lounge chairs with a warm tub of popcorn at Embassy Cineplex, one of the best VIP cinemas in the world. See page 30.

Chatuchak Weekend Market’s many stalls for vintage bric-a-brac early Sunday morning before the crowd shows up. See page 28.

!8 !3 Watching the sun set over Wat !8 Exploring Chinatown by foot and Arun while sampling the delicious Thai food at the riverside hotel Sala Rattanakosin. See page 23.

humid day without having to leave town at Flow House’s wave machine for bodyboarding and surfing. See page 30.

homey Thai dishes at the charming plant-filled warehouse-turned-restaurant The Never Ending Summer. See page 23.

!6 Breaking a sweat at Fight Lab, one

5 Sipping on a ya dong cocktail while !1 Tasting authentic Thai dishes rich

of the most welcoming and professional muay Thai training facilities in the city. See page 39.

listening to traditional Thai music at Tep Bar. See page 26.

!7 Winding down with a Thai herbal

with spices and herbs at the exquisitely decorated Bo.Lan restaurant. See page 23.

6 Shopping at local design stores for trendy home decor brands at one of the city’s hottest shopping destinations, the newly-renovated Siam Discovery. See page 28.

!2 Tucking into a hot plate of the guilty-pleasure dish kor moo yang— marinated grilled pork neck—at Kai Yang Sua Yai. See page 6.

from the tap at Let the Boy Die, a twostory shop-house in the Old Town that promises a rotating selection of beers and indie-pop/rock tunes. See page 26.

!0 Heading to the riverside to dine on

!0 Shopping for luxury silk products at the original Jim Thompson store. See page 28.

hopping from stall to stall for delicious street food while enjoying the area’s atmospheric evening vibe. See page 6.

!4 Catching the waves on a hot, !9 Sipping on local craft beer straight

9 Taking a trip up north to Mae Sa Waterfall in Chiang Mai, a great destination for the rainy season that promises a 10-tier waterfall with refreshing pools to swim in. See page 16.

8

@0 Working off your calories at the biggest Crossfit gym in Asia, Training Ground, which promises world-class equipment and professional coaching staff all set in a graffiti-decorated warehouse. See page 29.

@1 Beating the rainy season and heading to the pristine beaches of Koh Samui, where days are long and rain only falls on occasion. See page 16.

music compress and hot oil massage at Oasis Spa, a stylish compound decorated in a Thai Lanna style. See page 29.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

34 W H E R E T H AILAND I J ULY 2 0 1 6

21things_July_2016_New.indd 34

6/24/16 6:58 PM


Where to find Hotels in Bangkok The AETAS Bangkok All Seasons Bangkok Siam Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11 Amara Bangkok Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel & Spa Arnoma Baan Noppawong Bally’s Studio Suites Banyan Tree Bangkok Best Western Sukhumvit Cabochon Hotel & Residence Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Centara Grand at Central World Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok Conrad Bangkok Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Dusit Thani Bangkok Emporium Suites Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Four Points by Sheraton Grand Hyatt Erawan Grand Mercure Park Avenue Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Holiday Inn Silom Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 Hotel Muse Hua Chang Heritage Hotel Imperial Queens Park InterContinental Bangkok JW Marriott Bangkok The Landmark Bangkok Le Bua Hotel Bangkok Le Fenix Sukhumvit LIT Bangkok Luxx Majestic Grande Mandarin Hotel Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit 57 Mercure & Ibis Bangkok Siam

WHERE DISTRIBUTION LIST_July_2016.indd 35

where Thailand

Hotels in Other Provinces

Elemis Spa at The St. Regis Bangkok

Montien Riverside

Anantara Rasananda Koh Phangan Villa

Yunomori Onsen & Spa

Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit Sukhumvit

Resort & Spa

Pizza Romana Pala

Novotel Bangkok Siam Square

Centara Grand Beach Resort Villas Hua Hin

La Grande Perle

Novotel Bangkok Impact

Chandara Resort

Kuppadeli

Oaks Bangkok Sathorn

Conrad Koh Samui

Kalpapruek

The Okura Prestige Bangkok

Dara Samui Beach Resort & Spa Villa

Viva & Aviv

Park Plaza Sukhumvit

Dusit D2 Baraquda Pattaya

Mandarin Oriental At Paragon

Pathumwan Princess

InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam

Yodpiman River Walk

The Peninsula Bangkok

JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort & Spa

The Australian Pub & BBQ

Phachara Suites

JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa

Plaza Athénée Bangkok

Le Méridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa

Pullman Bangkok King Power

Let’s Sea Hua Hin Al Fresco Resort

Radisson Blu Plaza

Renaissance Koh Samui Resort & Spa

Radisson Suites Bangkok

Renaissance Phuket Resort & Spa

Ramada Encore Bangkok

Santiburi Resort

Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside

Shangri-La Chiang Mai

Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong

Sheraton HuaHin Resort & Spa

Riva Surya

Sheraton Krabi

Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers

Tamarind Village Chiang Mai

Siam Kempinski Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit

Serviced Apartments

The Berkeley Hotel

Adelphi Forty-Nine

The Continent Hotel Bangkok

Courtyard Marriott

The Metropolitan Bangkok Millennium Hilton Miracle Grand Convention

Shangri-La Bangkok

The Davis Bangkok The Siam

Shopping Malls

Siam @ Siam Design Hotel & Spa

CentralWorld

Sivatel Bangkok

The Emporium Department Complex

Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit

Peninsula Plaza

Sofitel So Bangkok

The River City Shopping Complex

The St. Regis Bangkok The Sukhothai Bangkok Swissotel Le Concorde Swissotel Nai Lert Park VIE Hotel Bangkok ViVa Garden W Hotel Bangkok The Westin Grande Sukhumvit

The Kiwi Bangkok Sports Pub & Grill The Australian Pub & BBQ

Y

Where reaches over 100,000 visitors each month. For sales enquiries, contact advertising@ asia-city.co.th or call 02-6249638.

Others TAT Tourist Information Counter at Suvarnabhumi Airport (arrivals) Chao Phraya Express Boats Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) Blue Elephant Restaurant Devarana Spa Dean & Deluca

6/23/16 2:59 PM


P.36 Dusit_July_2016.indd 40

6/23/16 3:12 PM


Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.