Where® Thailand July 2015 by Where Thailand

Thailand

PLUS

J U LY 2 0 1 5 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

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Rainy day activities Bangkok’s best cocktails

STREET EATS

Bangkok’s chefs’ favorite street food

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5 REASONS

ADVERTORIAL

TO VISIT O.P. GARDEN 1 IT CARRIES IMPORTANT HISTORY

3 IT’S A NICE RETREAT FROM THE BUSTLING CITY

The establishment, consisting of five restored colonial-style structures, will take you back in time to a milestone in Thailand’s rich history. Built during the reign of King Rama V (1868-1910), you’ll get a taste of the country’s modernization period, when railway systems, Western medicine and the Thai Baht were first introduced.

The open-air mall’s old captivating charm will take you back to the time of slow-life in Siam. Apart from its ancient structure established during the Reign of King Rama V, the space also features a spacious grassy area and pool, creating a restorative vibe for you to relax and rejuvenate in the fresh afternoon air.

2 TO SATISFY YOUR STOMACH It’s hard to say no to good coffee to fuel you through a day of shopping. Luckily, The Pacertique Café & Wine Room found itself a home inside this beautiful shopping complex. Treat yourself to a cup of hot coffee and their special breakfast set, or if you’re in the mood for a little buzz, go ahead and ask your server for a glass of sangria. Hungry enough for a meal? Located on the leafy terrace of this ancient style shopping complex is Mango Tree, a 20-year-old restaurant specializing in home-style traditional Thai cuisine from across the country. For a tasty light meal, try the pork satay before ending on a sweet note with the sticky rice and mango.

4 TO SCORE ONE-OF-A-KIND HAND-CRAFTED OBJECTS D’ART O.P. garden is filled with high-end jewelry specialists and Thai handicrafts, so you’ll be able to bring home unique, individually-designed souvenirs found exclusively here, such as delicately painted Thai-style pewter items from 5ive Sis, custom-made, jewelry from Coronet by Isarej, and beautiful contemporary craft items from Paw-Dee. 5 IT’S HOME TO SOME OF BANGKOK’S BEST GALLERIES O.P. Garden features many commercial art spaces that regularly host exhibitions, such as contemporary jewelry art specialist ATTA Gallery as well as Serindia Gallery, a venue showcasing modern works.

O.P. GARDEN SHOPPING PLACE, CHAROENKRUNG SOI 36 Tel. 0 2235 8865 Fax. 0 2235 8866 www.opthai.com

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CONTENTS where

l THAILAND l JULY 2015

The Guide BANGKOK 23 DINING Cuisines from across Asia in fine-dining settings and your last chance to sample a Bangkok street-food institution.

26 NIGHTLIFE The city's most creative cocktail lounges and a few hot spots for live jazz music.

CHEFS' TOP STREET EATS

28 ARTS+ATTRACTIONS

Delicious picks from Bangkok's fine-dining pros

The hottest exhibitions in Bangkok's galleries this month.

ATTRACTIONS

29 SHOPS+SERVICES Hunt out stylish Thai-made souvenirs at these contemporary Asian craft specialists.

10 RAINY DAY BANGKOK The city's best spots for surviving the wet season.

AROUND THAILAND

30 HEALTH+WELLNESS Check into Bangkok's best beauty clinics or try the city's newest fitness craze.

14 NEW IN PHUKET TOWN

Phuket island's Sino-Thai capital is undergoing a transformation. Here are the hottest new bars, cafes and restaurants.

31 ATTRACTIONS

16 NEWS

Educate yourself on the history of Siam at these Thai cultural experiences.

New openings and cultural happenings from around the country.

32 NAVIGATE

EXPLORING

Essential tips on getting around.

18 THONGLOR-EKKAMAI

20 General Manager Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor/Product Director Grégoire Glachant Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Regional Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Senior Designer Panita Thiraphapong

The natural habitat of Bangkok's coolest hipsters, and also home to some of the city's best shops, restaurants and bars.

ALSO INSIDE

20 SIAM SQUARE

The city's hub of designer shopping has everything from the biggest designer brands in the world to up-and-coming local labels.

34 21 THINGS WE LOVE

Staff Writer Pinnyada Tanitnon Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Lily Kittisrikangwan, Natcha Saguankiattichai Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com

MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Cover by Panita Thiraphapong

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

HOT DATES

www.wherethailand.com

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

@where_thailand

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HOT DATES

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JUL 7, JUL 19

Stage Left

The Monsoon Theatre Program begins this month with two productions by B-Floor Theatre, in collaboration with Democrazy Theatre Studio. Ka-ge Teerawat Mulvilai’s solo, movementbased production Iceberg, which launched last year to critical acclaim, will be restaged from Jul 7-18, followed by Sarut Komalittipong and Sasapin Siriwanji’s WWI-inspired co-directorial debut titled “WW101” (Jul 19-Aug 3). Democrazy Theatre Studio, Soi Saphan Khoo, Rama 4 Rd., 089-126-7112. MRT Lumphini. www.democrazystudio.com. B490 B-Floor Room, 65/1 Pridi Banomyong Institute, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-381-3860-1. www.pridiinstitute.com. B450

JULY 22

JULY 29-AUG 3

JULY 11-12, 1PM-12AM.

JULY 15-16, 8PM

Soundbox: Music to be Heard is a brand new touring live music series powered by Live Nation, a group aiming to promote cutting-edge music across Asia. The first edition in Bangkok features the niche American “schizophrenic” pop duo Twenty One Pilots, the “Samurai” Japanese rock singer-songwriter/guitarist Miyavi (also known from Angelina Jolie’s 2014 film Unbroken) and local hip-hop DJ Ono. For other tour dates, see www.soundbox.asia.

The world’s most legendary circus premieres its first show in Thailand at Cirque Du Soleil Quidam Live in Bangkok 2015. Under the tutelage of director Franco Dragone, the ninth edition of the show takes you into the imaginary world of Zoey, a girl who wishes to escape her mundane daily life. Expect acrobatic artistry from over 100 performers along with exceptional sound and stage production. There will be 11 rounds of performances at 8pm, with 4:30pm rounds from Jul 30-Aug 2.

Despite the rain, Bangkok’s hipsters still love nothing more than pop-up stalls and flea markets. After several very successful runs, the hit Brooklynstyle vintage market Made by Legacy makes a return this month under the theme “Modern Market.” This time, the vintage-heavy market takes shelter in the luxury Central Embassy (see shopping section, p. 13), but you can still expect the same raw and rustic vibe across the 4,000-sq-meter space, offering plenty of antique finds plus a panoramic view of the city.

Recently premiered in the US to rave reviews, The Snow Dragon is the latest production by renowned ThaiAmerican composer Somtow Sucharitkul. The fantasy opera is a short story of an abused young boy and a troubled counsellor who enter an imaginary world filled with dragons and princesses. This is said to be the composer’s best production to date.

MUSIC BOX

Muang Thai GMM Live House, 8/F, Zen, CentralWorld. Tickets are B1,500, available at www.thaiticketmajor.com BTS Chit Lom

HIGH-WIRE ACT

Impact Arena, 99 Popular Rd., 02-5045050. Tickets are B1,000-5,000, available at www.thaiticketmajor.com.

BROOKLYN SIAMESE TO BANGKOK FANTASY

6/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd. 02-119-7777. B120. madebylegacy.com. BTS Phloen Chit

Thailand Cultural Center, Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-262-3456. Tickets are B500-2,000, available from www. thaiticketmajor.com. MRT Thailand Cultural Centre

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DINING

CHEFS’ BEST STREET EATS

Bangkok’s top chefs tell us their favorite spots for street food in the capital. By Pinnyada Tanitnon and Natcha Sanguankiattichai Photos by Panita Thiraphapong

heap, quick and crazy delicious. These are the three reasons why street food in Bangkok is more popular than any restaurant. During lunch hours, street-food vendors can be found swarmed by office-workers, whipping out easy, straightforward dishes in less than five minutes. Fast forward to 5pm and you’ll see the same street corners make way for different vendors with their colorful folding tables and plastic chairs, cutting up vegetables and searing meat in preparation for the first hungry customers. Although Bangkok is filled to the brim with delicious street eats that conform to the four fundamental flavors of Thai cuisine—sweet, sour, salty, spicy—most of the dishes they serve are actually of Chinese origin, such as stir-fries, pork belly and duck, chicken-rice and noodle soup. And there’s a good reason behind it. The first wave of Chinese migration to Thailand in the 13th century brought with it the pioneers of the Thai street-food culture. Upon their settlement, migrants eked out a living as street-side food vendors selling patongko (Chinese breakfast donuts), congee and personal-sized stir-fried rice and noodle dishes to construction workers and passing locals. Over time, as the number of street vendors increased, so did the cuisine’s popularity. The former Chinese dishes gradually integrated Thai tastes and seasoning, giving them a new flavor profile and Sino-Thai identity. Street food now plays a big role in modern Thai culture, and although most of the street-side delicacies are still of Chinese origin, there are also vendors selling curries (khao gaeng ) and Northeastern Thai food such as grilled meats and green papaya salad. Today, street food isn’t just a fuss-free meal for construction workers; it’s a go-to for everyone. Here, we talk to some of the city’s finest restaurateurs and chefs, who share with us their favorite Bangkok street eats.

PAD THAI THIP SAMAI

KHAO MAN GHAI PRATUNAM

HOM DUAN

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KAO LAO JOM YUT

HOM DUAN

CHEF IAN KITTICHAI ISSAYA SIAMESE CLUB Favorite spot: Pad Thai Thip Samai (also known as Pad Thai Pratu Phee) “One of my go-to spots when it comes to street eating. Thanks to the the pad Thai hor khai goong sod (pad Thai with fresh shrimp wrapped in a thin egg crepe).Don’t miss their freshly squeezed orange juice out front.” 313 Mahachai Rd., 02-221-6280

JESS BARNES OPPOSITE MESS HALL Favorite spot: Hom Duan “I get the khao soi (Northern-style noodles with chicken curry soup) and usually eat them with pickled vegetables and chili.” 70/2 Ekkamai Soi 2, 086-347-8747

KAO LAO JOM YUT

JARRETT WRISLEY SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN Favorite spot: Sawang “Order the bah mee (egg noodles) with soup and extra crab and pork. It’s the most expensive item on the menu, but you’re paying for good-quality ingredients. Places that cost more usually mean they’re investing in better produce.” 336 Rama 4 Rd., 02-236-1772

BO SONGVISAVA AND DYLAN JONES BO.LAN

PAD THAI THIP SAMAI

THANARUEK LAORAOWIRODGE SOMTUM DER AND SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM Favorite spot: Khao Man Ghai Pratunam (Pratunam Chicken Rice) “When you see me eating finger food from a street vendor, chances are I didn’t intentionally go to the vendor to get the food but it looked good in passing. Personally, I think that’s the best way to enjoy street food because it’s hot, quick and straightforward in terms of taste. “ 962 Petchaburi Rd., 02-252-6325

Favorite Spot: Kao Lao Jom Yut “We go for the for the beef noodle soup, paired with rice. Don’t go after lunchtime, as they tend to run out of many menu items.” Near Plearng Nam Rd. in Chinatown, 02-221-7894

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DINING

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THITID TASSANAKAJOHN LE DU Favorite Spot: Hua Pochana “The nuea toon mor fai (braised beef in hot pot) is so tender. Get there before noon, which is when the crowd hits and the fried pork belly sells out. The owners also tend to get moody, so be well-behaved and wait to be seated.”

HUA POCHANA

Soi Narathiwat 16, 081-612-1733

PAOLO VITALETTI PEPPINA Favorite Spot: Chote-Chittr

CHOTE-CHITTR

NAI MONG

“If you want quality street food, don’t go somewhere touristy like the Sukhumvit area. This tiny shop-house has been serving food since the era of Rama V. I go for the mee krob (crispy fried noodles).” 146 Prang Phuton Rd., 02-221-4082

DAVID THOMPSON, NAHM Favorite Spot: Nai Mong “This fried oysterdish specialist serves dry and crispy cooked hoy-tod (pan fried oysters/mussels with egg). Ask for yours to be cooked very dry and crispy and season with pepper.” 539 Phlap Phla Chai Rd., 02-623-1890

NAI MONG

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FEATURE

13 THINGS TO DO DURING THE RAINY SEASON

How to spend the day in Bangkok when the rain starts to fall. By Pinnyada Tanitnon YUNOMORI ONSEN SPA

SMITH

ou had it all planned out: an early morning at the floating market, followed by a day exploring the beautiful landmarks of the Old Town. Then it started raining. Nonstop. June-October might be the wet season in Thailand, but there are still plenty of things to do in the city even when it’s raining. Here’s how to make the most of your time in Bangkok while staying dry.

ENTERTAIN THE FAMILY VIP CINEMAS Experience a day at the movies in regal style at one of Bangkok’s decadently appointed VIP Cinemas. Our favorites are the newly opened Quartier Cine-art (4/F, Emquartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-261-1919), which boasts state-of-the-art screening and audio technology, as well as a pre-movie set dinner from the New York deli Dean and Deluca. Also check out the Embassy Diplomat Screens (6/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5999), where you’ll find a lounge with a bar and wine cellar, and the Enigma at Paragon Cineplex (5/F, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-129-4635), featuring spacious sofas, massage chairs and a food menu.

AQUA LIFE Tucked in the basement of Siam Paragon shopping mall, Sea Life Bangkok Ocean World (B1-B2/F Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-678-2000) is home to over 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. As well as a sea-life petting zone and eight-foot-high panoramic aquarium, Sea Life also organizes dives with its sharks and back-of-house visits.

WAT PHO

WAX WORKS Madame Tussauds (6/F Siam Discovery, 02-658-0060) is the perfect place to squeeze in a little family fun after some retail therapy. Like the other branches, the world-famous chain of wax museums boasts exhibits of celebrities and cultural icons ranging from Albert Einstein to Angelina Jolie, alongside local exhibits. BLACK AMBER BARBER SHOP & TATTOO

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GET PAMPERED MASSAGES

LEISURELY LUNCHES BRUNCH

Put the noise of the falling rain to good use and fall asleep to a relaxing, tension-relieving massage. We recommend Health Land (96/1 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-392-2233) for its hour-long foot massage or two-hour full body Thai massage, performed by well-trained staff in a beautiful colonial style house. Alternatively, Kiriya Spa (36/1 Soi Kasemsan 1, 02-612-3456) specializes in treatments inspired by Thailand’s four main regions, carried out in a calming, cavern-like space with voluptuous curves. Got rained in at the Grand Palace? Take a short trip to Wat Pho (Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon, 02025504771), also known as the birthplace of Thai massage, for a traditional-style treatment.

What’s better than tucking in to a fresh plate of eggs Benedict while the rain falls outside? For a standalone brunch venue, we recommend Taper (G/F, 44/11 Thonglor Soi 13, 099-9295464) for Western dishes with Thai twists prepared in an open kitchen. There’s also the go-to Roast (Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2865), known for its artisanal coffee and amazing breakfast dishes. Smith (1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-0515) prepares a delicious Benedict served with pork belly, which goes down perfectly with the free-flow booze option. For hotel brunches, the Jazzy Sunday Brunch at Sheraton Grande (250 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8355) is currently holding a special promotion through Jul 19, featuring American sustainable seafood, with highlights such as an oyster bar stocked with Hammersley, Inlet and Kunamoto oysters, sockeye salmon and Penn Cove mussels.

WATER THERAPY Escape the water outdoors by going to relax in a body of water indoors at one of the city’s thermal spas. Yunomori Onsen Spa (A Square, Sukumvit Soi 26, 02-259-5778), features carefully-sourced hot-spring water from the Southern province of Ranong, while Onsen Sky Spa (Silom Plaza, 491/4344 Silom Rd., 02-233-6666), boasts a 1980s Tokyo vibe. For a different type of stress-relief, head to the Theta State Float Center (24th Avenue Mall, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-261-7493) to float mindlessly in a private sound-and-light-proof pod filled with Epsom salt water.

HERITAGE MEALS At lunch hours, eat at Bangkok’s most highly rated Thai restaurants for less. David Thompson’s Nahm (Metropolitan Hotel, 27 Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3388. Open for lunch Mon-Fri 12-2pm) is the world’s most highly rated Thai restaurant. The fiery, multi-course set menus offer devoutly authentic flavors and plenty of choice. Note that the word “course” is used loosely, as this is true, communal Thai-style dining. Bo.lan (24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-2602961, open for lunch Thu-Sun 12-2:30pm) is run by chef couple Bo and Dylan, who both trained under David Thompson. All their dishes are made from scratch, including the curry pastes, using only the best ingredients, jazzed up with a few modern plating touches. Another option is Benjarong (Dusit Thani, 946 Silom Rd., 02-200-9000, Open daily for lunch 11:30am-2pm), serving traditional dishes with devoutly Thai flavors prepared using European slow-cooking methods. The result is highly refined, but also satisfyingly authentic.

HAIR/NAILS Head indoors and get your hair and nails done. Visit Ten Ten Hair Nail and Spa (593/2 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-259-3510) and get pampered on one of their Crystal Pipe System nail spa chairs, worth a whopping B240,000 each. Panipa Salon (Ekkamai Soi 19, 02-392-6218) offers an array of nail treatments performed by experienced English-speaking staff, making the venue a hit for locals and expats. For men, we like Black Amber Barber Shop & Tattoo (Sukhumvit Soi 55, between Thonglor Sois 5 and 7, 081869-9393), a barbershop with a gentlemen’s lounge vibe, where a complimentary single malt is offered for those getting work done on their hair. Smokers are welcome to puff their own cigars while getting a cut. JULY 2015 I W HER E THA ILA N D 11

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FEATURE

EMQUATIER

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CENTRAL EMBASSY

PLAYTIME MUAY THAI FIGHTS

RETAIL THERAPY SHOPPING CENTRAL

Take your excitement inside one of Thailand’s most prominent muay Thai stadiums and cheer on the fighters along frenzied locals. Rajadamnern Boxing Stadium (1 Rajadamnern Avenue, 02-281-4205) showcases fights by the most prominent fighters in the country every Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday from 6:30-11pm, while Lumpini Stadium (6 Ram Intra Rd., 02-2522-6843) hosts fights from 6:30-11pm every Tuesday and Friday, and from 4-8:30pm and 9-12:30pm every Saturday.

Between BTS Chit Lom and Siam is Centralworld, Bangkok’s largest mall with hundreds of youth-oriented brands such as Kate Spade, Madam Flamingo and Camper. The mall is also home to the recently opened annex, Groove, where you’ll find cool dining and drinking spots. A short walk from here, by BTS Siam, is Siam Paragon and Siam Center. For full details, see our guide to Siam p. 20.

COOKING CLASSES Blue Elephant holds Royal Thai Cuisine cooking classes for all levels, led by the restaurant group’s founder, Nooror Somany Steppe, and her daughter, Sandra. Tucked inside the Mandarin Oriental’s Sala Rim Naam is the Oriental Cooking School (Mandarin Oriental, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-659-9000), which boasts a newly-renovated herb garden. One of the newest cooking schools located in Central Embassy is Issaya Cooking School (LG/F Central Embassy, 02-160-5636), with classes led by local cooking personality Ian Kittichai and his team of chefs

THE EMPORIUM

NEW LUXE MALLS Bangkok’s buzzing shopping scene has recently unveiled of some huge new malls. Central Embassy (BTS Phloen Chit) is a spacious, minimalist mall filled with high-end brands from around the world as well as Thai designer brands at the steeper end of the price scale. Do check out the concept store Siwilai and the adjoining Rocket cafe with views over the British Embassy. Or head to BTS Phrom Phong, where you’ll find two interconnected malls: the brand new Emquartier (02-2691000), a 9-floor giant with a garden and artificial waterfall, and the recently revamped The Emporium (02-269-1000), a quieter and smaller luxury mall home to brand names from Dior to Paul Smith.

RAJADAMNERN BOXING STADIUM

BLUE ELEPHANT

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AROUND THAILAND BOOKHEMIAN 2521

Z1MPLEX

PHUKET’S HEART

The Sino-Portuguese architecture of Phuket Town is undergoing a renaissance. Here are some of the best cafes, shops and bars to have opened recently. By Monruedee Jansuttipan

Z1MPLEX

BOOKHEMIAN 2521

This bar is more like a science laboratory for cocktails. A lot of the drinks are served only in shots, like Hannibal, which is a mix of Schnapps and liqueurs. Also try the Nebula Jellyfish, a mix of vodka, rum and liqueurs, as well as the must-order Parallel Universe, which contains eight ingredients—each customer is limited to “only” 20 shots a night.

This bookstore in a Sino-Portuguese shop-house recently underwent a major renovation to include a dessert and coffee counter serving single-origin drip coffee from Bangkok’s most reputed roasters. Their backyard section has retained its crumbling walls, and serves as an event space for art exhibitions, workshops with local writers and cinema nights. They also hold the occasional craft fair selling products from both local and Chiang Mai craftspeople.

156/48 Phang-Nga Rd., Talad Yai, 084-003-6664. Open daily 9pm-1am. www.fb.com/Z1MPLEX

A DESSERT MOMENT GALLERY CAFE BY PINKY

BOOKHEMIAN 2521

Now three months old, the interior of this dessert cafe is overloaded with cute seaside references in shades of blue. The dessert-only menu is very modestly priced, and includes cute tropical-style dishes like Phuket Passion (passion fruit sherbet ice cream served in a Phuket pineapple) and the popular Melon Miami (melon-flavored shaved ice with sliced almond). The drink list includes coffee, tea, soda, juice and smoothies. 12 Thalang Rd., 096-635-8881. Open Wed-Mon, 11am10pm. www.fb.com/adessertmomentsthailand

61 Thalang Rd., 098-090-0657. Open daily MonFri 9am-7pm, Sat-Sun 9am-8:30pm. www.fb.com/ bookhemian

PINT FACTORY Tucked inside a community mall, Pint Factory is the new mecca for Phuket’s serious beer-drinkers. It offers more than 100 different labels both in bottles and on tap. The kitchen focuses on fusion and Western dishes such as cheese burgers, seabass steak and panang-curry fried pork. 2/23 Limelight Avenue, Talat Yai, 083-6437974. Open daily 11am-midnight. www.fb.com/ Pintfactory

A DESSERT MOMENT

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ROENGJIT

QUIP SKY BAR

This former three-story cinema stood empty for ages before being transformed into this cool new coffeeshop and bar. It’s filled with antiques like old movie projectors, record players and shelves of wellthumbed books for visitors to browse. The coffee is made using a house blend of beans from Chiang Rai, Ethiopia and India, while beer drinkers can find Duvel and Vedette bottles here. There’s also a vast food menu of Thai and international dishes including Phuket’s favorite stirfried Hokkian noodles.

One of the coolest small hotels in Phuket Town unveiled this rooftop bar in early May. The large wooden terrace has a laidback atmosphere, ringed by sailing rope hammocks which hang above pools of water. As well as classic cocktails and beer, there’s also a food menu of elaborate Thai dishes with a focus on lobster. Try the Quip hors d’ oeuvres, which includes bruschetta lobster and larb moo tod (deep fried spicy herbal pork), as well as the somtam (Thai papaya salad) with lobster.

Surin Circle, Talad Yai, 089-866-1006. Open Mon-Sat 10:30am-midnight. www.fb.com/ roengjitcoffee

MERGE CAFE Interior designer Siriporn Puepae and her architect husband’s cafe has a cool loft vibe, filled with black steel, wood and bare bricks. They offer coffee beans from all over the world, sourced form Bangkokbased roaster Pacamara. The food is fusion Italian and Southern Thai like spaghetti nam yaa pu (spaghetti with crab curry), spaghetti green curry and pork chops. Their sweet highlights all relate to green tea like green tea lava milk and dense green milk tea.

QUIP SKY BAR

54 Phuket Rd., Talad Yai, 076-355-052. Open daily 5pm-midnight. goo.gl/uoj99q

LIMELIGHT AVENUE This new community mall is packed with food, fashion, health and beauty shops. Check out the yoga studio and nail spa, too. 2/23 Limelight Avenue, Talad Yai, 076-213-664. Open daily 10am-10pm. limelightphuket.com LIMELIGHT AVENUE

37/30 Montri Rd., Talad Yai, 091-826-2012. Open Sat-Thu 9am-8pm. www.fb.com/mergephuket

GALLERY CAFE BY PINKY Originally famed for its breakfasts, the new location of this well-established cafe operated by a Le Cordon Bleu culinary school graduate has added some classic Thai dishes to its menu. Highly recommended dishes include the eggs Benedict, Thai porridge, buttermilk pancake with caramelized banana and berry compote with French toast, bacon and sausages from renowned local butcher Mr. Moo (www.mrmoophuket.com). 19 Yaowaraj Rd., 089-103-7000. Open daily 8am-8pm. goo.gl/nVUaI0

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where

AROUND THAILAND

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

PHUKET RACE WEEK

PHUKET

SAIL AWAY Don your nautical stripes and Sperrys to watch the biggest boating extravaganza in Thailand, Phuket Race Week at the Cape Panwa Hotel in Phuket, this Jul 15-19. The international-level yacht race features four days of yacht racing and, just as importantly, five nights of beachside partying. It’s all open to the public, with tickets available at the venue (though they are in limited supply and there’s no pre-sale) You can also rent a yacht and watch the race from the ocean. Come nightfall, you’ll be able to access the parties, equipped with free-flow beer, wine and spirits. Tickets cost B8001,200 depending on the night of the party. For more information, visit www.phuketraceweek.com.

THE LATEST OPENINGS AND HAPPENINGS AROUND THE KINGDOM

CHIANG MAI

CAFE CULTURE

ARTTITUDE GALLERY

GRAPH TABLE

PATTAYA

THE YUTHIKA WELL-BEING SPA

HUA HIN

Graph Cafe, one of the most reputable coffee-makers in Chiang Mai (a city known for its amazing coffee culture) has branched out with a new food-focused venue. Graph Table (Moonmuang Soi 6, Sriphoom, 086567-3330. www.fb.com/graphtable) serves homemade Italian cuisine with organic local produce such as free-range eggs from a farm in Lamphun. For breakfast expect artfully named egg dishes such as Monet (mashed avocado on salsa salad), Post Modern (eggs Benedict with deboned emilano ham on toast) and the Moonmuang (poached egg on toast with baked beans and grilled mushroom). Of course, you’re still guaranteed a good cup of coffee, too.

BEACH EAT

GREAT ESCAPE

FRESH PRESSED

The Silver Lining Pattaya (www.fb.com/silverliningbyglasshouse) is a romantic-beachside restaurant specializing in Japanese and Italian food. The space boasts a massive outdoor, candle-lit lounge with a view of the beach, while the interior is decked out with rustic-meets-retro decor—neon purple lights, dark leather, white lounge chairs and metal daybeds.

The Yuthika Well-Being Spa (www. yuthikawellbeing.com) covers 300 sq meters of Escape Hua Hin, a fisherman’s village-themed resort comprising old-style red buildings set amid vibrant nature. The spa itself boasts seven treatment rooms and over 20 treatments, including the Thai massage, Swedish massage and facial treatment. The spa’s “follow the sun” concept is said to tailor treatments to the body’s different conditions throughout the day: from the rosy-scented morning massage oil to the uplifting, minty daylight treatment and relaxing sunsetthemed treatment with lavender notes.

Arttitude Gallery (www.fb.com/arttitudegallery) on the trendy Nimmanhaemin Road not only serves coffee, but they also specialize in sugar-free, 100-percent pure cold-pressed juices. And because they are health-focused folks, there isn’t any alcohol. The loft-style venue features plenty of wood and plants for a homey, airy feel. There is also a small gallery space, where the owner intends to host exhibitions starting this coming winter. Each drink comes with the artistic touch of an attached tag containing the image of a famous artwork and a short description of its history.

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whereExploring JULY 2015 | BANGKOK

SUKHUMVIT SOI 51 TO 65 Nearly all the streets—or “soi,” in Thai— along Sukhumvit Road are known by their number. But Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) and Ekkamai (Sukhumvit Soi 63) have made names for themselves. These two parallel streets are quite simply the most buzzing in Bangkok, home to the best bars, clubs and restaurants. Here is our pick of the bunch. A.R. SUTTON

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 18 THONGLOR & EKKAMAI

20 SIAM

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EXPLORING

THONGLOR & EKKAMAI Y HOT SPOTS

Big in Japan A sizable Japanese community makes this one of Bangkok’s best locations for ramen, sushi and sake.

@1 Honmono Sushi The excellent sushi here is reasonably priced, plus the restaurant isn’t a bewildering experience for neophytes. Years after opening, it still packs in affluent Thais every night (reservations are a must) with its fresh fish from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo. 19 Thonglor Soi 23, 02-185-1447. Open Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-2pm

NEW 1 MIKAKU This restaurant is the first branch outside Japan of a renowned teppanyaki restaurant from Gion district in Kyoto. Run by the same family for more than 80 years, Mikaku is known for its expert selection and preparation of premium beef teppanyaki. At this branch, the family’s third-generation owner and chef mans the grill himself, selecting only A4-5 graded wagyu from Kobe and hand-slicing tenderloin and sirloin to the perfect thickness. Don’t miss the melt-in-your-mouth oilyaki teppanyaki. 2/F, Above Maison Eric Kayser, 103/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), Between Soi 3-5, 02-712-9080. Open daily 5-11pm; Sat-Sun noon-2pm

THINGS TO DO

SHOPPING

There are only a few art spaces in this neighborhood, but they are among the more interesting in town. 2 Pridi Banomyong Institute (65/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-3813860-1), for example, is the theater of choice for some of Thailand’s youngest and most experimental dancers and actors. Check the B-Floor Theater Group’s Facebook page (www. fb.com/Bfloor.theatre.group) prior to visiting for up-to-date information on shows. Further down the same street, 3 Ardel’s Third Place Gallery (137137/1 Thonglor Soi 10, 02-714-7929) showcases work from both established and emerging local artists in a striking space, with its concrete floor, vast windows, whitewashed walls and exposed beams steel. After browsing the gallery, head to the next street over to visit 4 Health Land (96/1 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-392-2233), where you’ll get one of the best-priced massages in Bangkok. Clean, private treatment rooms and efficient staff account for its massive local popularity.

This is hipster central, and shopping around Ekkamai-Thonglor is all about vintage. 5 Machine Age Workshop (281/7 Ekkamai Soi 15, 02-381-8596) is an ambitious vintage fashion and furniture store set in a giant, open-plan warehouse. It specializes in repurposed odds and ends from America’s manufacturing age, from the late 1800s to mid1900s: army drafting tables, wood radios and leather luggage. They also do a good beef brisket sandwich, if you’re feeling peckish. Be warned, some of the items are pretty expensive, although that doesn’t mean

MACHINE AGE WORKSHOP

@2 Mugendai This restuarant from a group of Japan-ophile friends focuses on premium ingredients. Recommendations include the Aburi Seven, a sushi set with Matsusaka beef, otoro (fatty tuna), as well as the unagi foie gras (grilled eel sushi stuffed with foie gras) and kinki shioyaki (grilled rockfish with salt). 7/F, Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, 02-7269222, 087-996-8888. Open daily 5:30pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am2:30pm

UN FASHION

bargains can’t be found. For a more guaranteed wallet-friendly bet, head up the street to leather-specialist 6 Unfashion (Ekkamai Soi 10, 094421-2411), where brogues, loafers, duck boots, belts and other accessories in various states of disrepair can be browsed while sipping a coffee from the adjoining cafe. Visit 7 Again & Again (Market Place, Thonglor Soi 4, 089-486-5359) for something a little more feminine. Unlike other ragged-looking vintage stores, this It-shop hooks its customers up with glittery dresses, shirts and a selection of high-quality skirts and pants. Crate-diggers should drop

@3 Teppen Tucked behind Major Sukhumvit cinema, this wooden-floored pub is a favorite among Japanese expats looking for a taste of home. The warm lighting and sincere staff create a friendly, authentic vibe. 14/2 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-714-1412. Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Ekkamai

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THONGLOR & EKKAMAI

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@4 WTF

Tucked inside a narrow lane, this cool, intimate shophouse bar is favored by Bangkok’s local and expat hipsters. The ground floor features a small corner bar with retro touches like old movie posters, vintage bench seating and flowery tiles. Head there early to ensure a table if you’re too self-conscious to stand around outside (where most of the crowd congregates) and be sure to check out the upstairs gallery. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo. www.wtfbangkok.com

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bolthole that does a good job deceiving you into thinking it’s always been in its tucked away location, even if it is in a low-rise mall. Across from it, @0 Hot Rod (02-714-7525), is as much a bar as a great spot to nibble on authentic Thai food.

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balance, a degustation menu that regularly changes to reflect seasonal products. More laidback and with dishes closer to street food, !0 Soul Food Mahanakorn (56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 085-904-2691) serves a brief menu of perfectly executed Thai regional dishes. Don’t leave without trying its excellent, double-strength cocktails. Regional Thai cuisine specialists include !1 Supanniga Eating Room (160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7508), where the mix of Eastern Seaboard and Isaan food makes for arguably the best Thai restaurant in Bangkok, and !2 Phuket Town (160/8 Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402), with its classic Southern dishes. For the best Thai dessert around, don’t miss the mango and sticky rice at !3 Maewaree (1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-392-4804)—ours and many others’ absolute favorite. The cosmopolitan area also has plenty of good Western food, whether it’s the down-to-earth sharing plates of !4 Opposite Mess Hall (27/1

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Well-to-do Bangkok hipsters rub shoulders with expats at !7 Badmotel (Sukhumvit Soi 55, between Thonglor Soi 15 and 17, 02-712-7288), a stylishly renovated three-story bar with regular DJs and a sizable outdoor garden. The craft-beer stronghold !8 Mikkeller (26 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-381-9891) attracts a similar but more laid-back crowd, and is set in in a charming mid-century house. For the area’s best happy hour, head to !9 Moose (Ekkamai Soi 21. 02-108-9550) between 5-8pm, when strong, fruity cocktails are on buy-one-getone-free. Not all the area’s nightlife is geared at the party crowd. @0 A.R Sutton Engineers Siam (G/F, Park Lane Ekkamai) might be tiny, but it’s one of the coolest cocktail lounges in town: a colonial-inspired

SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

Tho

NIGHTLIFE

Sukhumvit

You are in Bangkokians’ food heartland, from street eats to highend Thai to European fine dining. 9 Bo.lan (Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02260-2962) takes a traditional approach to Thai food with the occasional contemporary tweak in the presentation. Opt for the Bo.lan

Sukhumvit 53

DINING

Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6330), which attracts a young, bohemian crowd, or the classic French fine dining fare of !5 4 Garcons (1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor Soi 13). Alternatively, ignore all the fancy bars and restaurants and head to !6Sabaijai Kebtawan (65 Sukhumvit Soi 63), where a feast of Thai seafood can quickly turn into a Leo beer-fueled karaoke session with friendly locals.

Sukhumvit 51

by 8Zud Rang Ma Records (7/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 088-891-1314), one of the best record stores in town, stocking an eclectic collection of vintage Thai funk and global sounds.

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Y HOT SPOTS

Siam’s Top 3 Restaurants

!7 Sra Bua By Kiin Kiin The Bangkokian sister of Copenhagen’s molecular gastronomy restaurant Kiin Kiin, which, after David Thompson’s London restaurant Nahm (now in Bangkok), became the second restaurant in the world to receive a Michelin star for cooking Thai food. Lobby/F, Siam Kempinski Hotel, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. Open daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm. BTS Siam

NEW 1 PASTE Two of Bangkok’s most highly-regarded modern chefs, Bongkoch Satongun and Jason Bailey, joined forces with the aristocratic Sanitwong family, descendants of Rama II, to open this slick Thai restaurant. Its specialty is recipes from the Sanitwongs’ ancient cook books, with a particular emphasis on curries. Try the gang gai gorlae (Southern Thai-Muslim curry with grilled chicken), made using sous-vide, coconut-husk-smoked grilled chicken. 3/F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-1003. Open daily 11:30am-3pm and 6-11pm. BTS Chitlom

iam Square sees huge malls like Siam Paragon and CentralWorld rub shoulders with trendy little boutiques hidden in a maze of streets populated by fashionloving uni students. The area is also home to downtown Bangkok’s biggest cultural space, as well as the cheap electronics mecca of MBK. Here’s how to spend an entire day eating shopping and drinking in this very modern Bangkok neighborhood.

SHOP The actual Siam Square (the area on the opposite side of the Skytrain to Siam Paragon and Siam Center malls) is divided into 11 alleys of miniscule shops rented to independent fashion brands and restaurants. It’s like a training ground for young Thai designers, before the best ones graduate to the fancier malls across the street. Highlights include the original branch of cult-label 2 Issue (Siam Square Soi 3, 02-658-4416) 3 Dancing Riot (Siam Square Soi 2, 02-658-4863) and dapper men’s shoe specialist 4 Mango Mojito (Siam Square Soi 2, 02658-1435). If Siam Square is Bangkok’s fashion nursery, then 5 Siam Center (Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000) is its graduating class, where the very best local labels can be found. On the third floor,

SIAM PARAGON

shop for industry leaders like Greyhound, Kloset, Senada and Soda as well as younger brands including Milin and Something Boudoir—or let the multilabel stores Gin & Milk, The Selected and The Wonder Room pick the best for you. 6 Siam Paragon (991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-8000) also has a floor for Thai designers, but the real highlight is its lavish VIP cinema and world

class Sea Life aquarium. 1 Gaysorn Plaza (999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-6561149) has luxury shops including Louis Vuitton and Prada, while you’ll also find high-end locally made craftsmanship at furniture specialist Alexander Lamont and luxury jewelry brand Matina Amanita. The biggest one of all is 7 CentralWorld with more restaurants and shops than any other mall in town. If you’re in the market for electronic goods, 8 MBK (444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000) is a mecca for cameras phones and headphones (though beware of fakes) as well as watches and fashion of dubious origin.

7 Taling Pling This restaurant specializes in fussfree Thai dishes. Favorites include the delicious klua gling moo gradook on (Southern style stir-fried baby back ribs with herbs), a perfect combination of salty and mildly spicy. 3/F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-613-1657. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chit Lom

!8 Thompson Bar & Restaurant Located at the end of the nondescript soi in the same leafy compound as the Jim Thompson Thai House, Thompson Bar & Restaurant is a well-kept secret among local diners. The restaurant excels in Western and fusion recipes. Try their larb spagetti (spicy spagetti salad) or stir-fried soft-shell crab with black pepper. 6/1 Soi Kasaemsan 2, 02-612-3601. Open daily 10:30 am-6pm

GAYSORN

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EXPLORING

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restaurant that serves Chinese-style Thai food. Another Thai Restaurant worth seeking out is !2 Baan Khun Mae (Siam Square Soi 8, 02-658-4112) set in a Thai-style wooden house serving traditional Thai dishes. Asian food lovers also shouldn’t miss luxury Chinese restaurant 6 Crystal Jade (G/F, Siam Paragon, 02-610-9363), or the global restaurant chain 7 Din Tai Fung (7/F, CentralWorld, 02-646-1282) for some xiao long bao (soup-filled steamed dumpings).

From khao-kaeng (street stalls that sell ready-made dishes on top of rice) to rooftop fine dining, Siam has it all. For street eats, head to the little alley behind Novotel Hotel in Siam Square (between soi 5 and 6) or head up to the second floor of the Lido cinema (Siam Square, 02-251-2861). Siam Square is also home to the original branch of beloved comfort Thai food chain 9 Baanying Cafe & Meal (G/F, Siam Kit Building, 02-6644510). !0 Somtam Nua (Siam Square Soi 5, 02-251-4880) is the area’s most iconic restaurant. Be prepared to wait with a long line of students to try their somtam (papaya salad) and legendary crispy chicken. Another Thai food landmark is !1 Seefah (Siam Square Soi 9, 02-251-5517), an 80-year-old

up on the roof of Centara Grand at CentralWorld.

SIGHTS

!3 Jim Thompson House (Soi Kasem San 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368) is one of the hidden gems of the area. The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and

DRINK

ERAWAN SHRINE

Siam Square is not a nightlife area at all. Most of the shops close at 7pm. But there is a buzzing bar scene at Groove, the dedicated dining and nightlife annex at CentralWorld shopping mall. Here you’ll find niche beer bar HOBS (02-613-1322), gastro-bar and cocktail specialist 7 1881 by Water Library (02613-1774) and 7 Hyde & Seek Peek-aBoo (02-646-1099), the young offshoot of nearby Hyde & Seek (65/1 Athenee Residence, Soi Ruamrudee, 02-1685152)—another popular cocktail spot. But if you’re seeking somewhere quiet, intimate and with incredible views, head to 7 Red Sky Bar (02-100-1234), high

BACC

porcelain. The corner of Phayathai rRad is also home to !4 Bangkok Art and Cultural Center (939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-2146630) where you’ll find exhibitions by local artists both new and established. Inside you’ll also find the independent book store Bookmoby and Gallery Drip

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ten-overlooked temple is a real treat, like something from the countryside transplanted to the city. Bangkok’s uniquely Hindu-influenced strain of Buddhism is evidenced at the !6 Erawan Shrine, located right outside Erawan shopping mall. The shrine represents Phra Phrom, Thailand’s representative of the Hindu god of creation. Here you’ll find Thais from across the city coming to pray and make wishes (mostly for lovers)—but you have to hire the dance troupe if you want that wish to come true.

Ratchad

SOMTAM NUA

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Cafe—both well worth a visit. The area also has several religious attractions. !5 Patumwanaram Temple is hidden between Siam Paragon and CentralWorld on Rama 1 Road. Even for Thais, this of-

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ThewhereGuide JULY 2015 | BANGKOK

NEW

ANOTHER STORY

This concept store gathers designer products from all over the world with a heavy focus on stationery and home decor. Along with international tech, fashion and design brands, there are also plenty of Thai names (Gray Ray, Labrador and Midori) as well as cute home decor pieces (look out for Plural Design, PDM Brand, Karv Design and Alltag). The huge space also has a deli with some of the best local food producers. 4/F, The Emquartier, Helix Building, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6138/9. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

BANGKOKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BEST VENUES 23 DINING 26 NIGHTLIFE

28 ART + ATTRACTIONS 29 SHOPS + SERVICES

30 HEALTH + WELLNESS 31 ATTRACTIONS

32 NAVIGATE

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GUIDE

DINING NEW

BAAN

This restaurant’s name means “home” in Thai, and it specializes in dishes prepared using the chef’s family recipes. The chef focuses on “slow food”; conscientiously reared livestock and traditionally farmed produce characteristic to Thailand. Dinner starts with a story about the origins of the produce, like organic rice, free-range pork and eggs. Baan’s signature dishes span classics like somtam (Thai-style spicy papaya salad) as well as slightly more creative recipes like kai palo tom-sap (spicy five-spiced egg soup). Near the Lumpini Police Station. 139/5 Wireless Rd., 02-655-8995. Open Wed-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm; Mon 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm

STREET FOOD The iconic street-food area near BTS Thonglor has been forced to move on. Be sure to catch it while you can.

Hot Spots BEST OF ASIA

GAGGAN

After building a solid foundation in Indian and Italian cooking at hotel restaurants, Gaggan Anand did a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, the former modern-gastro capital of the world. His eponymous restaurant serving molecular Indian cooking ranked No. 1 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2015 and 10th in the award’s global ranking. Expect the unexpected like foams, spherification, dehydration and more alongside traditional dishes of Indian curry. 68/1 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-1700. Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Ratchadamri

GAGGAN

3 Conveniently located right next to BTS Thong Lo, Sukhumvit Soi 38 is a lively hub of good street food featuring numerous stalls specializing in Thai and Thai-Chinese specialties. Though many stalls don’t have name signs, they do offer menus in English with food pictures. The operation starts from about 5pm and runs through the early morning hours so you can drop by before or after your night out in Sukhumvit. Highlights include the ba mee puu moo-daeng (yellow noodles with crab and roast pork, B40-B50), kao man kai (rice with steamed chicken or fried chicken, B50-60), kuay tiew kua kai (stir-fried chicken noodles, B40-50), and pork entrails soup with vegetables and seafood (B70). There are also many shop-housestyle restaurants along the road. Look out for the one specializing in khao soi (chicken or pork noodles in coconut milk curry, B50), identified by the Chinese doughnut seller out front. There are quite a few dessert stalls too, selling everything from ice cream to the classic Thai dessert kao niew ma muang (sticky rice with sweet mango, B60-80), which can be found at the beginning of the street.

CHEF MAN

CHARCOAL TANDOOR GRILL & MIXOLOGY

Amid a plush and contemporary work of lattice, wood and steel furniture, feast on modern presentations of kebabs (cooked in a custom-made tandoor oven) and authentic Indian dishes such as dum ki raan (slow-cooked mutton leg in spices). As a result of extensive hours marinating in cream, yogurt and spices, grilled highlights like the murgh malai kebab are absolute melt-in-your-mouth goodness. And do order a cocktail: the bartenders have been trained by Bangkok-based mixology maven Joseph Boroski. 5/F, Fraser Suites, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111, 089-307-1111. Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Nana

Make your reservation early if you want a taste of what is some of the best dim sum in Bangkok. Excellent preparation, fresh ingredients and perfect timing make even the most basic shrimp dumplings exciting. Located in the Eastin Grand Sathorn Hotel, the atmosphere is fairly vibrant thanks to a large open kitchen where a small and frenzied army of cooks prepare the Cantonese dishes.

3/F, Eastin Grand Sathorn, Sathorn Rd., 02-2123741. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10pm. BTS Surasak CHARCOAL TANDOOR GRILL & MIXOLOGY

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TASTEOFTHECITY

DINING HONG KONG Recent Openings

BANH MI BO This small takeaway joint specializes in Vietnamese sandwiches and noodles. Ellsie Boutique Mall, Sukhumvit 33/1, 096-886-0052. BTS Phrom Phong

EAT RICE & NOODLES Street-food staples done right with premium ingredients. B/F, Emquartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-261-0428. BTS Phrom Phong

MASIZZIM A spot for Korean- style stews. 430/23 Siam Square Soi 9, 02-658-1988. BTS Siam

Advertise your business with us starting from B5,000

CRAB AND CLAW

A seafood place serving New England’s favorites, including lots of lobster. 7/F, Emquartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 095-564-5422. BTS Phrom Phong

Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Credit card payment accepted.

24 W H E R E T H A I LAND I DECEMBER 2 0 1 1 I www.wheretraveler.com

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GUIDE

DINING

SUSHI HINATA

This sushi specialist with branches in Nagoya and Malaysia is part of a new wave of serious, omakase-service sushi restaurants in Bangkok. Beyond the white, Japanese Zenlike facade, the restaurant serves sets of the finest seafood cuts with immaculate attention to detail, with the sushi chef personally applying exactly the right amount of soy sauce to each one. The expertise and skill on show are spectacular. 5/F, Central Embassy, Ploenchit Rd., 02-160-5935. Open daily 11am-10pm. BTS Chit Lom

SUSHI HINATA

ZUMA

Spot the hip, the rich and the beautiful at Zuma, whose high-end hotel surroundings, generous proportions and stunning decor should impress even the most hardened gourmand. Its granite, bamboo, reflective walls, timber and glass provide a backdrop that’s warm, luxurious and exotic. The food is Japanese fine dining with modern flair like the signature dynamite spider maki roll or suzuki no osashimi (sliced sea bass with yuzu, truffle oil and salmon roe).

THAI FOOD IN BEAUTIFUL HOUSES

Blue Elephant

Ruen Urai

Sala Rim Naam

The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonialstyle mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts. Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavor. While more modern Thai restaurants have lately grabbed most column inches, Blue Elephant is well worth a visit for both atmosphere and food.

This century-old house outfitted with beautiful antiques is just as stunning outside as inside. Paying homage to the original owner, who was a herbal medicine practitioner, the menu incorporates strong herbs and spices such as green peppercorn, wild ginger, galangal and turmeric. Ingredients are of high quality and the curry pastes taste like they’re made from scratch. We’re particularly drawn to the grilled river prawns with spicy galangal dressing and wild boar sauteed with spicy curry and herbs.

The signature Thai restaurant of Bangkok’s most pedigreed hotel serves mild yet authentic flavors, with nods to Royal cuisine and an emphasis on quality ingredients. It’s set on the other side of the river from the main hotel, with a terrace that overlooks the water for al fresco dining. Recommended dishes include goong phad prik daeng (fried prawn with garlic and red chili sauce) and the massamun nuea (Southern-style beef curry with sweet potato and onion).

233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:3010:30pm. BTS Surasak

Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72. Open daily noon11pm. BTS Sala Daeng

Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., Charoenkrung Rd., 02-659-9000 ext 7333. Open daily noon-3pm, 5pmmidnight. BTS Saphan Taksin

G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-252-4707. Open daily 11:30-3pm, 6pm-11am. BTS Ratchadamri

Y SPOTLIGHT

Ruen Mallika Explore their 13-dish perp mue (finger dining) set menu for a touch of ancient Thai culture. Prior to Western Influences on Thai cuisine, families dined on the floor using their fingers instead of utensils (chopsticks too came later, with Chinese migrants). The restaurant, located in a beautiful Thai house, comes equipped with specifically-trained staff to guide you with finger dining technique, as well as provide you with a bowl of organic herbally-treated water to ensure everything is hygenic. You can also opt to change into a traditional household-style Thai attire for an extra fee, including a souvenier photograph. Be sure to call ahead for reservations. 189 Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-663-3211. Open daily 11am11pm

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE REVOLUCION COCKTAIL NEW

This colorful Latin-American-themed bar, with sister venues in Shanghai, Guangzhou and Xiemen, is the most lively spot in Sathorn’s chic enclave of cocktail bars and restaurants. The specialty is both classic cocktails like mojito (Havana Club rum, lime, mint and sugar syrup) and Moscow Mule (Absolut vodka, fresh lime juice, sugar syrup, angostura bitter, ginger beer), and reinvented signatures like the Aged Negroni (gin, Martini Rosso, Campari, fresh strawberry, blueberry, orange, passion fruit and soda). There’s also an interesting selection of tapas dishes. 50 Sathorn Soi 10, 02-635-3533. Open daily 5pm2am. BTS Chong Nonsi

Hot Spots GREAT COCKTAILS

NAMSAAH BOTTLING TRUST

One of the partners behind this nightlife venue, set in a 100-year-old house painted pink, is acclaimed chef Ian Kittichai. His menu is all about twists on Asian comfort food, like pad Thai with duck and foie gras or salmon tartare wonton tacos. Downstairs specializes in cocktails, with a long list of recognizable classics given local twists, while upstairs offers more formal dining in brightly wallpapered setting. HYDE & SEEK

HYDE & SEEK

Hyde & Seek is a chic gastro bar with a playful edge. The beveled windows, dark woodwork and leather couches make this a spot with a masculine and retro appeal. The menu features lovingly-made traditional pub food with a high-end twist, like baby back ribs in a chili and chocolate glaze. But we also go for the cocktails, which are some of the best in town. 65/1 Athenee Residence, Soi Ruamrudee, Wireless Rd., 02-168-5152-3. Open daily 11-1am. BTS Phloen Chit

J. BOROSKI MIXOLOGY

401 Silom Soi 7, 02-636-6622. Open daily 5pm-2am. BTS Chong Nonsi

VESPER

The elegant blend of gentlemen’s club and European bistro looks to appeal to serious cocktail drinkers. The imposing marble bar is packed with uncommon spirit bottles and oak barrels, and specializes in both botanical and barrel-aged cocktails created by Scottish barman Colin Tait. The food is refined European comfort dishes, namely Italian and some Spanish options, designed by Luca Appino of respected Italian restaurant La Bottega di Luca. 10/15 Convent Rd., 02-235-2777. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm; Sun-Thu 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat 5pm1am. BTS Sala Daeng

Run by Joseph Boroski, creator of cocktail lists for sophisticated bars and many fivestar hotels, this is a hidden gem among Bangkok’s countless bars—and by hidden, we really mean it. Look for the women in red dresses outside a “karaoke” lounge, turn left and head to the end of the street. Once inside, you’ll be served cocktails tailored to your requirements (there’s no menu) using ingredients you can’t find anywhere else in town.

PERFUME

This is the brainchild of three friends—a mixologist, a chef and an avid shisha smoker. As such, the aptly named fragrance-inspired bar serves molecular cocktails, European fusion food and innovative shisha flavors. The cocktails themselves are made using perfume-making techniques from France. Try the popular Passionate Sex On The Beach (Ketel One, fresh passion fruit and homemade grapefruit perfume bitter). G/F Ei8ht Thonglor, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-8071. Open daily 10-1am. BTS Thong Lo

Y SPOTLIGHT

Maggie Choo’s This elegant bar evokes colonial outposts, the Pax Britannica of Queen Victoria, the decadence of opium or gambling dens, steamy exoticism (and steaming noodles on your way in), James Bond movies and gentlemen’s clubs. You can usually expect some kind of entertainment: a band, a DJ accompanied by a percussionist and beautiful ladies in cheongsam dresses lazing about. The cocktail menu is sweet, fruity and aromatic.

Between Thonglor Soi 5 and Soi 7, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-712-6025 J.BOROSKI MIXOLOGY

Underground/F, Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 091-772-2144. Open Sun-Thu 7:30pm2am, Fri-Sat 7:30pm-3am. BTS Surasak

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE

BANGKOK’S BEST LIVE JAZZ BARS

SMALL

Bamboo Bar

Brown Sugar

Smalls

Opened back in 1953, but given a complete restyle in late 2014, this hotel bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. Singers take the mic at 9pm daily, accompanied by music from a baby grand and surrounded by framed portraits of jazz legends who’ve passed through over the years. What’s more, the bar also does some of the best cocktails in town, whether its signature classics like the Mekhong rum-laced Thaijito or elaborate, molecular concoctions like the Raspberry Nitrogen Sorbet.

The Phra Sumen institution offers classic Western comfort food and cocktails, and live performances by quality local jazz bands dominated by finalists of TV talent show The Voice Thailand. Performances run from 8:30 pm from Tue-Sun.

This laid-back, late-night cocktail lounge is set in a corner-shophouse and split over three levels including a roof terrace with really great views. The eclectic crowd ranges from older guests who come to nurse a drink while listening to live jazz, to young groups of friends always keen to check out the most buzzed about places in town. The bar specializes in absinthe, but there are some great cocktails, too.

1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoenkrung Soi 40 (Oriental Ave.), 02659-9000. Open Sun-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am

469 Phra Sumen Rd., 08-1805-7759. Open daily 5pm-1am

Saxophone One of the city’s longest-standing music institutions, the pub is best known for its jazzy offerings led by Koh Mr. Saxman. However, a dose of solid reggae can be heard here too. Just swing by on Fri and stick around long (and late) enough for Thailand’s godfathers of reggae, T-Bone, to take to the stage (every Fri night, from midnight-1:30am). 3/8 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-245-3592. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Victory Monument

186/3 Suanphlu Soi 1, 095-5851398. Open Wed-Sun 8:30pm-2am; Mon 8:30pm-2am

The Living Room Bangkok With regular international guests of the highest caliber, this hotel bar is one of the most serious jazz institutions in town. There’s also a free-flow drinks deal for B1,200 from 8pm-midnight. Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8353. Open daily 9am-midnight. BTS Asoke

BAMBOO BAR

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GUIDE

ART+ ATTRACTIONS NEW

YENAKART VILLA

This new multi-purpose, by-appointmentonly art space is well worth a visit. The modernist building's soaring ceilings, expansive glass and crisp white facade take influence from the work of 1930s European architecture, while inside you'll find rotating exhibitions by local and European artists. To find an area this vast dedicated to contemporary art is something of a rarity this close to the center of town, better yet one as stunning as this. 69 Soi Prasat Suk, Yen Akart Road., 02-235-9800. www.fb.com/yenakartvilla

Hot Spots TOP EXHIBITIONS THIS MONTH

ELEPHANTS AND HORSES

This exhibition showcases cult Thai artist Somboon Hormtientong’s new series of paintings, featuring minimalist elephant figurines inspired by his solo motorbike trips through Northern Thailand. Known as one of the country’s abstract pioneers, Somboon’s work combines Western-style free-form brush strokes with unique Asian calligraphy touches. Through Jul 26, G1 Contemporary Gallery, G/F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-1149. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit

LIFE IS FRAGILE

This exhibition features the collected works of Vasan Sitthiket, a Thai contemporary artist best known for his work mocking politicians such as former-prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra. The artwork, drawn from pieces rarely exhibited in Thailand, has been chosen to show Vasan’s stylistic progression.

GUSHING OUT MY CONFESSIONS

Jul 4-Aug 8, Numthong Art Gallery, 72/3 Ari Soi 5 Nua, Phahonyothin Rd., 02-617-2794. Open MonSat 11am-6pm. BTS Ari

Y SPOTLIGHT

In his latest exhibition, photographer Naraphat Sakarthornsap catalogues the dark side of his character. It’s hosted by Whitespace Gallery, the crisp, factory-like art space curated by Thai photographer Maitree Siriboon.

Jul 18-Aug 15, Whitespace Gallery, 4/F, Saladaeng Soi 1, 02-235-2500. Open Wed-Sun noon-6pm. MRT Lumphini

ELEPHANTS AND HORSES

MISSING LINKS (PART 1)

This is the first part of a two-part exhibition exploring issues of modernization, industrialization, urbanization and migration in Southeast Asia, featuring videos, moving images and time-based artworks. Part one, which runs through Jul 31, features work by artists from Indonesia, the Philippines, Vietnam, Myanmar and Laos.

Through Jul 31, Jim Thompson House, 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. Open daily 9am5pm. BTS National Stadium

THE 4TH WHITE ELEPHANT ART AWARD: OUR BELOVED PRINCESS

A competitive exhibition of realistic and figurative art submissions for the Thai Beverage Company’s prestigious B1 million art prize. This year’s theme also celebrates HRH Princess Maha Chakri’s 60th birthday. Through Jul 12. Bangkok Art and Culture Center (BACC), 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630. Open TueSun 10am-9pm. BTS National Stadium

BACC

Set in the bustling Pratumwan area just across the road from Siam Square and MBK, this public art center has become a popular hot-spot for the people of Bangkok. Aside from the contemporary art exhibitions, BACC also contains small, design-centric stores, ranging from cafes and restaurants to book shops. The top floor also boasts a movie theater, complete with a decentsized stage for live performances. 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630-8. Open Tue-Sun 10am9pm. BTS National Stadium. www.bacc.or.th

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BANGKOK

SHOPPING NEW

AREE

ONION STORE

The hip multi-label men’s fashion store Onion recently opened its second store in the vibrant Ari area. Owned by a local indie star, House Sorasak, the spacious white fashion boutique is dedicated to clothing and accessories from cult imported brands like Saturdays Surf NYC, Beton x Cire and Stanley & Sons. There’s also a room dedicated to vintage-wear, including lots of never-before-worn deadstock from New York. You can get a great cup of coffee instore too, thanks to a partnership with local coffee-bean specialist Brave. 2/F, 66 Soi Aree Samphan, 02-116-6078. Open Daily 10am-8pm. BTS Ari

Hot Spots HIGH-END THAI CRAFTS

ALEXANDER LAMONT

Drawing from his experiences living in both Europe and Asia, Alexander Lamont’s beautiful decor items successfully blend European techniques with the subtle mystique of Asian art. The materials, from bronze to stingray skin, are always luxurious and meticulously handcrafted by the local artisans under Alexander Lamont’s employ, ensuring that each piece of furniture is both unique and meaningful.

2/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605772. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

YARNNAKARN ART & CRAFT STUDIO

Launched back in 2010, Yarnnakarn Art & Craft Studio is leading the new wave of Bangkok potters thanks to classical designs spruced up with bold finishes, like the all-white paint used on the petite Bonsai-friendly flowerpot. The products range from tableware to home decor items like vases, animal sculptures and frames. Room 027-029, MRT Kampangpetch (Exit 1), opposite Chatuchak Market, 02-678-3877. Open Tue-Fri 11am-6pm; Sat-Sun 11am-7pm

OTOP HERITAGE

One of a number of Thai craft shops under The One Tambon One Product (OTOP) brand, this store specializes in luxury items produced in Thailand. It features more than a thousand handicraft products selected from different producers around the country, mostly home decorative items and fashion accessories. Other OTOP sites include OTOP The Walking Street in Silom (02-635-7061) and OTOP The Gallery (02141-6052) in Phloen Chit. 4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02160-5975. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit

Trimode’s lead jewelry designer traveled to various provinces around Thailand to help contemporize traditional products, in collaboration with The Support Arts and Crafts International Centre of Thailand. The brand recently won the big prize at the Asia Talents 2014 segment of BIG+BIH for products like Doipui, a modern redesign of a traditional Hmong embroidered hat, and Nong Bua Daeng, hand-woven cotton hats and totes colored with natural indigo and ebony dyes. 3/F, The Wonder Room, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1098. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam

Y SPOTLIGHT

YARNNAKARN

JIM THOMPSON

The original, main store of this pioneering Thai silk brand stocks silk clothes and accessories across its three floors. The space is classic and palatial, paneled with teak from wall to wall, and shows off a range of elegant silks, from pillowcases and scarves to clubby neckties. There are other branches at Jim Thompson House (a must-visit within walking distance of BTS National Stadium) as well as various malls and five-star hotels around Bangkok.

JIM THOMPSON

FOUND BY TRIMODE

9 Surawong Rd., 02-632-8100. Open daily 9am9pm. BTS Sala Daeng

THA MAHARAJ This themed community mall looks to recapture the charm of the old town’s architecture. The riverside pavilion consists of over 50 open-air restaurants and shops spread over seven buildings styled in keeping with the area’sbuildings of old. There’s also a riverside promenade and community garden. As well as shops dedicated to fashion and beauty, you’ll also find specialists of antiques and Thai amulets. 11/1 Maharaj Rd., 02-866-3163-4, 090-926-5265. Open daily 10am-10pm.

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GUIDE

HEALTH + WELLNESS NEW

PHYSIQUE 57

The popular barre fitness studio from New York, Physique 57, known for its celebrity clients like Demi Moore and Emmy Rossum, has opened its second international branch in Bangkok. The studio promises quick results after eight sessions of its balletinspired, barre-based, 57-minute workout, which combines intervals of cardio, strength training, stretching and recovery. Beginners can learn the fundamentals before tackling the level one classes and the additional moves of level two. No membership is necessary, with prices charged per class. 4/F, Erawan Bangkok, 494 Phloen Chit Rd., Bangkok, Thailand 02-652-1703

Hot Spots BEAUTY CLINICS

THE FACE AESTHETIC

This standalone, French-styled beauty clinic offers a more personalized service than the big chains. There are three main categories of treatments: beautification, clearing up skin problems and hair repair (prices depend on the consultation). Despite the medical nature of treatments on offer, the clinic still offers a wonderful day of pampering after too many late nights out on the town. Try a simple facial mask treatment, or if you’re looking for something more serious, the anti-aging botox option. 7/F, Bangkok Mediplex Centre, 2/30 Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02-712-2334. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Ekkamai

PUTTHARAKSA AESTHETIC

Using its own, in-house developed products, the clinic says its signature Acne Care package not only protects skin from break-outs but also helps reduce acne scars. Other treatments include Absolute Brightening for skin rejuveination and Rejuvenation Complex, during which a machine exercises the flesh deep within your face. Doctors are present at the clinic from 2-8pm daily.

Y SPOTLIGHT

1535 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-6336. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm. BTS Phra Khanong

ASTER SPRING

This international chain of skincare and health spas combines German techniques and products to provide effective facial and body treatments. The philosophy here is no-frills and no-nonsense, just good skin products that offer real results.

G/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0501. Open daily 9:30am-9pm. BTS Asok

DERMASTER

Housed in a 2,000-sq-meter compound and operated by a board of certified plastic surgeons, Dermaster is recognized as one of Bangkok’s best aesthetic institutions. The vast compound houses four separate beauty centers offering everything from cosmetic surgery to wellness procedures. Facial treatments include Derma Frax laser therapy, while the non-surgical “Self Re-boost” treatment promises to rejuveinate your skin. For a quick revitalizing treatment, try the non-invasive 60-minute Aura Bright facial.

APEX MEDI SPA

This beauty clinic has gone upscale with this total rejuvenating retreat set in Thong Lor. The spa features in-patient rooms, treatment suites, a restaurant and swimming pool. Programs range from threehour spa treatments to seven-day weight-loss packages.

208/1-3 Thonglor Soi 8, 080-500-0123. Open daily 8:30am-8:30pm. BTS Thonglor

KIRIYA SPA

Located in a calming, cavern-like and voluptuously curved space designed by local archictural firm VasLab, this spa is the perfect place to wind down after a long day in the bustling city. All the treatments take inspiration from Thailand’s four main regions. The Southern treatment, for example, starts with a strong, slow massage informed by the local Nora dance and performed with hot seashells. It’s followed by a massage by inspired by the Hooloo Vahi dance, which focuses on blood circulation. 36/1 Soi Kasemsan 1, 02-612-3456. Open daily 10am10pm. BTS National Stadium

342 Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 085-047-4466. Open daily 9am-8pm. BTS Ekkamai APEX MEDI SPA

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ATTRACTIONS

FLIGHT OF THE GIBBON This zip-line tour operator has locations in Chiang Mai and Pattaya that give natureloving risk takers amazing views of Thailand’s forests and an adrenaline rush at the same time. The Zipline Canopy Tour in Pattaya’s Chonburi jungle features three kilometers of wires suspended above the forest canopy, the longest of which is over 300 meters. For tourists staying in Bangkok, the company also offers day packages including nine-person shuttle bus to and from the cirty. Ten percent of profits also go towards primate rehabilitation, reforestation projects and ecological education programs. 29/4 Chang Kachasarn Rd., Chang Klan, 053-010660. www.treetopasia.com

Hot Spots

CULTURE IN TRADITIONAL WOODEN HOMES

BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM

Made up of four wooden houses dating back to 1937, the museum offers a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of an upper-class Bangkok family. The different buildings are filled with elegant furniture and ornaments from the Rattanakosin era and the reign of King Rama V (1868-1910), and make for a charming few hours’ exploration, as do the wellkept gardens kept cool by the river breeze. Charoenkrung Soi 43, 02-233-7027. Open Wed-Sun 10am-4pm

SUAN PAKKAD

Opened to the public in 1952 by its former royal residents, this complex of eight Thaistyle houses was Thailand’s first public museum. It showcases sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period that belonged to Prince and Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga, as well as artifacts from the collection of King Chulalongkorn’s son.

Y SPOTLIGHT

352-354 Sri Ayutthaya Rd., 02-246-1775-6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm

VIMANMEK

With 12 separate museums in Vimanmek Palace, you can easily spend a whole day here. The compound houses the royal museums of photography, textiles and silk, clocks, and more. The old black and white pictures of the royal family are particularly interesting but it’s the gorgeous teak buildings that are the real stars. Strict dress code (see their website for details).

BAAN SILAPIN

Tucked behind a series of small streets, this 200-year-old canal-side wooden house offers one of the most authentic experiences of traditional Thai culture. The house formerly belonged to a merchant family, but is now home to a fellowship of artists who’ve transformed it into a public artist’s residence. Whether strolling around the anceint homes, sampling traditional drinks and desserts, shopping for art or just relaxing by the canal, you will feel a million miles from the hustle and Bustle of Bangkok. Get there by 2pm to catch the daily puppet show (except Wednesday). Inside the main visitor’s gate at the Grand Palace, Na Phra Lan Rd., 02-225-9430. Open daily 9am-3:30pm

16 Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300. Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-3pm. www.vimanmek.com

KAMTHIENG HOUSE MUSEUM

Tucked away in the bustling Asoke area is a beautiful Thai house that was given to the Siam Society under the Royal Patronage in 1963. The museum specializes in exhibits of traditional rural Thai life, mainly Northern Lanna culture, and displays artifacts such as farming tools, weaving looms and pest traps made from bamboo and rattan.

Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-661-6470. Open Tue-Sat 9am5pm. BTS Asoke

Asiatique The Riverfront The first shopping center to sit on the riverbank is themed according to the city’s architecture of old. It includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashion and intriguing souvenirs, as well as a variety of eateries, beer gardens and wine bars. The gigantic venue is also home to a ferris wheel, restaurants and stage shows. We recommend the seafood at Baan Khanitha. Free ferry from Sathorn Pier, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488. Open daily 4pm-midnight. www. asiatiquethailand.com

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

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MRT

5 Khao San Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

!5 Siam Paragon

River/Klong (canal)

7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

!6 CentralWorld and Zen

8 Wat Pho

!7 Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

9 Wat Arun

!8 Central Chidlom, Central Embassy

Pier

On Nut Í‹Í¹¹Øª

FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130. The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 JULY 2015 I W HER E THA ILA N D 33

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

1 Spending a laid-back evening at 6 Listening to jazz at the 61-year- !1 Browsing around Siam Center, !6 Floating mindlessly in a pod of Asiatique, the giant riverside development filled with shops, restaurants, bars and cultural performances. See page 29.

old Bamboo Bar, an attractive lounge in Bangkok’s most famous luxury hotel, the Mandarin Oriental. See page 27.

a mall filled to the brim with locally designed, cutting-edge fashion brands. See page 22.

Epsom salt water at the Theta Float Center. See page 17.

!7 Sitting ringside at Rajadamnern !2 Booking a seat at the counter of Stadium, the official home of champi-

2 Admiring the works of South- 7 Sipping super-strong cocktails Sushi Hinata, the hottest omakase- onship muay Thai bouts. See page 12. east Asian artists at Jim Thompson House, one of the most atmospheric museums in the city. See page 21.

3 Tucking into the delicious duck confit waffles at Opposite Mess Hall before grabbing drinks with the city’s coolest hipsters at WTF. See page 19.

with a bowl of rich Northern curry at Soul Food Mahanakorn, before ending your meal on a sweet note with their delicious durian-flavored ice cream. See page 19.

8 Shopping for beautifully-crafted, unique home decor at Alexander Lamont. See page 29.

service sushi restaurant in town. See page 25.

!8 Stocking up on Thai handicraft souvenirs from across the country at

!3 Ordering a warm bowl of khao- OTOP Heritage. See page 29. soi (Northern-style crispy noodles with coconut soup) from one of our favorite street-side shop-houses. See page 7.

!9 Checking in to Health Land for possibly the most comfortable and best-priced foot massages around. See page 11.

!4 Learning how to prepare deli4 Getting a tension-relieving Thai 9 Unwinding from a long day of cious Thai dishes under the guid- @0 Descending the steps to Maggie massage at the spiritual home of the art, Wat Pho, also the site of the 46-meter-long reclining Buddha. See page 11.

retail at the Emquartier’s Water Garden. See page 12.

ance of local cooking personality Chef Ian Kittichai at Issaya Cooking Studio. See page 12.

Choo’s, the sultry Silom nightspot styled on a Shanghai opium den. See page 26.

!0 Leaning back on one of the spa-

cious lounge chairs and relaxing !5 Going from vendor to vendor and @1 Taking a day trip to Pattaya to 5 Puffing on a full-bodied cigar underneath a cozy blanket at one of chowing down on street food on zip-line through preserved forests with a whiskey in hand while getting a fresh new cut at gentleman’s barbershop Black Amber Thonglor Social Club. See page 11.

the city’s VIP cinemas. See page 17.

Sukhumvit Soi 38, arguably Bangkok’s best area for street food. See page 23.

with Flight of the Gibbon, an experienced and reliable zip-lining tour operator. See page 31.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

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