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JANUARY 2015 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®
®
WWW.WHE R E T H A I L A N D.C O M
Crafted in Thailand Chiang Mai Top Picks
CELEBRITY CHEFS Bangkok’s brightest kitchen stars
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CONTENTS where
®
l THAILAND l JANUARY 2015
The Guide BANGKOK 25 DINING Riverside gems where the view is as good as the food, plus the best Thai cooking schools.
6
28 NIGHTLIFE Bars with great Thai food, rooftop hot spots, a very fancy new cocktail lounge and the best late-night party spots.
THE IN CROWD
From contemporary Asian tasting menus to the world's hottest hipster food trends, these chefs are making Bangkok's best grub.
32 HEALTH+WELLNESS Relax your muscles at these five beautiful spas that offer traditional Thai massage treatments.
GUIDES
33 SHOPS+SERVICES Get the suit of your dreams from one of these four tailors with proven track records, and learn what to look out for before making a purchase.
10 UNIQUELY THAI Bangkok's best young designers are working with traditional Thai craftspeople with spectacular results. Here's who to know and where to find their work.
34 ARTS+ATTRACTIONS
AROUND THAILAND
Where to view the finest exhibitions in town plus a gallery in one of Bangkok's grandest teak residences.
12 NEWS
16
The hottest new hotels Pattaya, Phuket, Hua Hin and Chiang Mai.
35 PROPERTY
16 CHIANG MAI
Dream beach and countryside condos for those who never want to leave.
The Northern capital is booming. Don't miss these charming cafes, bars, restuarants and shops.
36 NAVIGATE
EXPLORING
Essential tips on getting around.
20 LOWER SILOM
22 Managing Editor/Product Director Grégoire Glachant General Manager Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Regional Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Senior Designer Panita Thiraphapong
Delicious Thai restaurants, high-flying cocktail bars, cutting-edge galleries and three red light districts, Silom really does have it all.
ALSO INSIDE
22 SUKHUMVIT SOIS 31 TO 49
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The leafy warren of streets is home to food from every corner of the globe, stylish spas and the best sake bar we know.
38 21 THINGS WE LOVE
Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Monruedee Jansuttipan, Kritthee Visitkitjakarn, Kanin Srimaneekulroj, Lily Kittisrikangwan, Tewit Phanitprachaya Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant On the Cover Chef Ton Tassanakajohn of Le Du (see page 6) by Panita Thiraphapong
MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger
MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston
facebook.com/wherethailand
www.wherethailand.com
National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson
E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com
MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber
MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV
Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th
HOT DATES
MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman
Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt
MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com
@where_thailand
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HOT DATES
WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM
JAN 10-11
MADE BY LEGACY FLEA MARKET V
Fans of all things vintage must head to State Railway of Thailand’s head office for Bangkok’s vast annual Brooklynstyle flea market, Made by Legacy. The theme this time is “children”, in celebration of National Children’s Day on Jan 10, so expect stalls selling oldschool toys, classic action hero figures, rare vintage home décor items, and a great selection of food and drinks stalls. Entry fee is B100 per person. Traffic can get a little crazy on Children’s Day, but the SRT is actually only a 13-minute walk along a lovely canal from MRT Hua Lamphong. Jan 10-11, 3pm-midnight. State Railway of Thailand, 1 Rong Muang Rd. www.madebylegacy.com
JAN 1
JAN 24
JAN 26-FEB 1
JAN 24 / FEB 28
KOLOUR NYD
MICHAEL BUBLE
BANGKOK BEER WEEK
WINTER JAZZ AND ARTS FESTIVAL
The Bangkok party organizer Kolour, well-known for its day-time parties by the river, celebrates the first day of the New Year with this open-air bash at Viva Aviv, the cool cocktail terrace in front of River City Complex. From 1:30pm till late, they’ll bring out quality live acts across two music stages. Expect the 1,000-capacity space to be maxed out.
Smooth Canadian vocalist Michael Buble returns to Bangkok for the first time in 10 years as part of his Asian tour to perform original hits such as “Home” and “Haven’t Met You Yet” as well as smash cover versions like “Sway” and “Feeling Good”. Tickets available through thaiticketmajor.com.
A whole week dedicated to beer kicks off at this laidback bar and restaurant situated in a converted mid-century family home. Expect niche beers from some of the world’s most respected breweries and lawn barbecue parties.
The festival brings together quality jazz performances by the best local acts, art and music workshops, and plenty of other stalls. Jan 24 sees pop jazz by Nu Vudthicvichai, modern jazz by Mint Passakorn and Nat The Voice and a finale by Sunny Trio & Jakob Dinesen. Tickets can be purchased at 02-282-9934 and 084-450-0505.
7:30pm. Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd
Viva Aviv, B/F, River City Shopping Complex, 23 Yotha Rd. Free Ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin. www.fb.com/ wearekolour
Mikkeller, 26 Ekamai Soi 10. Open daily 5pm-midnight
National Gallery, 4 Chao Fa Rd., 02281-2224. Open Wed-Sun 9pm-4pm
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DINING
THE IN CROWD
The Bangkok chefs you need to know (and whose food you need to eat).
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n 2014, Bangkok’s restaurant scene was dominated by a small group of chefs whose food puts the focus on seasonal, local ingredients of the highest quality. Their informal, casual approach to high-quality cooking has gained not just a strong local following but accolades from abroad, too, as their restaurants are consistently voted some of the very best in Asia. So without further ado, here are the people making the best food in Bangkok.
BO SONGVISAVA AND DYLAN JONES, BO.LAN The chefs: Since their restaurant, Bo.Lan, opened in 2009, the two David Thompson protégés (both trained at his original, Michelin-starred Nahm in London) have been among the city’s most committed chefs at preserving traditional Thai flavors, while serving them in a refined style that’s made for sharing. Validating their efforts, Bo was named Asia’s Best Female Chef in S. Pellegrino’s annual World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards for 2013. “Many chefs think they can make Thai food more luxurious by separating it into courses like Western cuisine,” she says. “This isn’t right. If you ask a French chef to serve all the dishes at the same time, as in Thai cuisine, they will kick you out. I want the opposite to be the standard for Thai kitchens. Stop making tomyam as an entrée!” The place: Stick to the set menus, which are designed to lead diners unfamiliar with the communal, Thai style of dining through an authentic experience. The Bo.lan Balance set, which changes every two months, starts with yaa dong (a potent, traditional Thai spirit) served with pandanus juice and sour fruits to shake up your palate, before covering curries and stir-fries all made from scratch using the best ingredients. The restaurant itself, which recently moved to new premises as part of ongoing efforts to become carbon neutral, is also stunning. 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53 Bangkok. 02-260-2962. Tue-Sun 6-11pm; Thu-Sun noon-2:30pm. BTS Thong Lo
DAVID THOMPSON, NAHM The chef: The Australian chef made his name in London, where Nahm became the first Michelin star restaurant doing Thai food. His return to Bangkok triggered heated debates—an Australian doing Thai food, shocking!—but in a couple of years he’s gone from controversial figure to institution, winning multiple awards (this year, Nahm Bangkok was named Asia’s Best Restaurant by S. Pellegrino) and even begrudging nods of approval from the early skeptics. But, he says, his love affair with Thai food was not instant: “I came to Thailand on a holiday and became seduced by the country, the place and the people—but not particularly the food. Then I met Khun Yai, a difficult old woman who cooked divine food. I might be cooking French food now if it wasn’t for that encounter.” The place: An opulence of flavors: fiery chilies, creamy coconut sauces, ripened tropical fruits bursting with sweetness and tartness, fresh, salty delights from the sea. Nahm’s food is subtle, it’s balanced, but it’s no chamber orchestra; a jazz band would be a more appropriate comparison. Make sure you have the coconut and turmeric curry of blue swimmer crab with calamansi limes and the minced prawn simmered with shallots, young chilies and coriander—both are just superb. G/F, Metropolitan, South Sathorn Rd. 02-625-3333. Open Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm, 7-11pm; Sat-Sun 7-11pm
NA
IAN KITTICHAI, ISSAYA SIAMESE CLUB The chef: When you think celebrity chef in Bangkok, you think Ian Kittichai. During the 2000s, he actually made his name in New York with several successful restaurants before moving back to Bangkok with Hyde & Seek, a gastro bar that sparked a gourmet burger wave across the city. But now, he’s more likely to be found at Issaya Siamese Club, his Thai restaurant in a beautiful, vibrantly colored old manor house. The place: Issaya’s food manages a highwire act of being resolutely traditional and thought-provoking in equal measure. Those well-versed in Thai food will recognize most dishes on the menu (which includes plenty of vegetables grown in the restaurant’s garden). Yet most are given a little twist, notably through the artful presentation. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chuaphloeng Rd. 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-midnight
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TIM BUTLER, EAT ME
OPPOSITE MESS HALL
ISSAYA
The chef: A graduate from the venerable Culinary Institute of America, Butler went on to work at Daniel in New York and was pastry chef at Aquavit— both of which have had two Michelin stars. His style is often described as Australian or Pacific Rim cuisine, a comforting blend of Mediterranean flavors with occasional nods to Asia. That makes him one of the most truly globally-inspired cooks in town. The place: Nearly two decades on, Eat Me still has a genuine charisma. The décor is a cool mélange of industrial and natural, and features rotating exhibitions by local artists. The kitchen pulls off bold combinations like Alaskan scallops with avocado, yuzu and pancetta, while a chicken salad is elevated by the addition of red papaya and betel leaf.
NAHM
BO.LAN
ZRA JIRARATANA, ASTON: DINING ROOM & BAR The chef: Zra graduated from the Cordon Bleu, here in Bangkok, and quickly went on to open a gastro pub in the city’s outskirts. Foodies immediately noticed his use of molecular techniques, which are still extremely rare except for a couple fine-dining restaurants. Finally, Zra moved closer to the CBD, opening a dramatic chefs-table-only restaurant. He represents the first wave of uncompromising Thai chefs cooking international cuisine at the highest level, and doing it in their own name. The place: A tangle of concrete beams, steel cables and ferns achieves an effect that’s both beautiful and slightly post-apocalyptic. The large open kitchen at the center of the dining room uses only the best produce, served in a chef’s table menu (five courses) that changes regularly and is never boring. 68 Sukhumvit Soi 31. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am
ASTON
MORTEN NIELSEN, BENJARONG The chef: It’s hard to overstate the importance of Danish Chef Morten Nielsen. He was at the helm of Siam Kempinski hotel’s Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin, where he was the only one in Bangkok doing molecular, ultra-fine-dining Thai cuisine. He got poached by Dusit Thani Hotel, and now he’s revamped what used to be one of Bangkok’s most traditional Thai restaurants, Benjarong, if not to Sra Bua levels of molecular madness. The place: Chef Morten retains authentically Thai taste despite the refined presentation. For a good taste of what he’s doing, order the seasonal three-course menu, which starts with a traditional tomyam goong served tableside. À la carte standouts include the 24hour braised lamb shank in massaman curry and crispy sweet pork ribs. Dusit Thani, 946 Rama 4 Rd. 02-200-9000. Open daily 6-10pm; Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm. MRT Silom
1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd. 02-238-0931. Open daily 3pm-1am. BTS Sala Daeng
JESS BARNES, OPPOSITE MESS HALL The chef: Jess basically introduced Bangkok to the idea of eating high-quality, locally sourced, Western-influenced food in a setting completely detached from fine dining. He’s also one of the most charismatic chefs in Bangkok, with a personality big enough to match his head-to-toe tattoos. Jess’s current restaurant, Opposite, is his third food venture in Bangkok, but the one that most closely reflects his personal tastes. “Opposite was about removing the constraints of what is considered eating and letting it be about the food and drink,” he says. The place: Communal, low-key and firmly focused on flavors. This is not your starched tablecloths, five-courses kind of deal. The small plates are built for sharing and priced honestly. As well as heavy comfort food like duck waffles, pork belly buns and milk-fried chicken, be sure to try the salads, which burst with just as much flavor. 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51. 02-662-6330. Open Tue-Sun 6:30pm-midnight; Sun 11am-2:30pm. BTS Thong Lo
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DINING
WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM
LE DU
PEPPINA
PAOLO VITALETTI, APPIA AND PEPPINA The chef: For years, Bangkok’s Italian food scene had two options: high-end restaurants or generic pizzerias. Then Paolo Vitaletti arrived, himself a hotel chef fed up with making the type of food he’d never cook back in Italy, and opened a Roman-style trattoria named Appia. Its mix of home-style pastas, rotisserie meats, unctuous stews and rustic specials was a revelation for Bangkok, and three years on it’s still one of the few places you definitely need to book in advance. The places: His follow-up from 2014, Peppina, makes pizza according to the draconian rules of the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana as to what constitutes real Neapolitan pizza. The results are simply stunning. Appia offers something quite different: the best pasta in town, an incredible porchetta and unforgettable appetizers like the veal tartare. Appia, 20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31. 02-261-2056. Open Tue-Sun 6-11pm; Sat-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm. Peppina, 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31. 02-119-7677. Open Tue-Sun 6:30-11pm
GAGGAN
GAGGAN ANAND, GAGGAN The chef: This Kolkatanative is one of the very few Asians successfully pioneering such contemporary food. And he learned from the best: the Spanish birthplace of what’s now known as molecular gastronomy, El Bulli. But Gaggan is not just challenging our preconceptions about food, he is also tapping into his own memories of India, repackaging humble street food into bite-sized flavor jolts or deconstructing a classic curry to highlight the essence of the dish. The place: The signage says “progressive Indian” but that’s an understatement. Yes, there is an obvious Indian theme, but everything about the place is so un-Indian: not a gold plate or red drape in sight. As for the food, there’s a playfulness in everything served up that’s hard not to like, from freshwater clams in bowl-lickingly good Konkani curry to nitrogen-frozen pina colada. In Gaggan, Bangkok has a restaurant it can be proud of, and in Gaggan Anand, a chef whose talent and enthusiasm makes you fall in love with food again.
LE DU
TON TASSANAKAJOHN, LE DU The chef: Bangkok is not short on young chefs with fancy culinary degrees, but Ton is among the few who actually backed up his study with practical experience at the world’s best kitchens. After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA), he worked at renowned Michelin-star restaurants including Eleven Madison Park, The Modern and Jean Georges in New York, and California’s Red Medicine. He now does his own thing, producing locally-focused, Asianflavored dishes the likes of which no one else is doing in Bangkok. The place: Think creative cooking, Asian flavors and artful plating. Seasonality and locality are key here, whether its in starters like Thai porcini with pickled oyster mushroom, gourd, extra crispy chicken skin and chlorophyll, or hearty red-meat mains such as the Ratchaburi-sourced venison. In our view, Le Du is currently one of the most exciting—and best-priced—kitchens in town. 399/3 Silom Soi 7. 092-919-9969. Open Mon-Sat 6-11pm. BTS Chong Nonsi
68/1 Soi Lang Suan. 02-652-1700. Open daily 6-11pm
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DESIGN
THINKK STUDIO
UNIQUELY THAI
Over the past year, a number of leading Bangkok designers have been working closely with craftsmen from various rural provinces to adapt traditional know-how into modern designer products. Here are the studios and shops producing some of our favorite local goods. By Vasachol Quadri
THINKK STUDIO
TRIMODE
Thinkk launched on the strength of some very Scandinavian-looking designs that found a strong international following after being picked up by magazines including Wallpaper* and Elle Decoration. Their new project has been produced in collaboration with Thai rattan craftsmen, resulting in a sister brand, Thingg, whose products include woven pendant lamps and placemats, bottle openers and plant pots. The latest addition to the collection is a beautiful lamp made from cotton thread, created especially for Chiang Mai Design Week 2014 (made to order; prices start from B2,500).
Trimode’s lead jewelry designer, Pirada Senivong Na Ayudhya, has traveled to various provinces around Thailand to help contemporize traditional products, in collaboration with The Support Arts and Crafts International Centre of Thailand to create Found by Trimode, which recently won the Asia Talents 2014 segment of BIG+BIH. Project highlights include Doipui, a modern redesign of a traditional Hmong embroidered hat; Nong Bua Daeng, hand-woven cotton hats and totes colored with natural indigo and ebony dyes; and Nakhon Ratchasima, jewelry made with buffalo, ox and yak horns using metal coating techniques.
Thinkk is available via www.thinkk-studio.com. Thingg is available at Anyroom at The Jam Factory, 41/1/5, Charoennakorn Rd., 02-861-0950. www.fb.com/thingg.product
All products are available at foundbytrimode@ gmail.com
TRIMODE
PDM BRAND What initially began as a design consultancy has recently crossed over into production. As well as a line of baremetal steel furniture, designer Doonyapol Srichan has now reinvented the cheap and ubiquitous Thai polypropylene mats. By using modern, graphic patterns and carefully considered color combinations, he’s turned stale, disposable designs into something a lot more stylish while maintaining exactly the same production methods. Prices start from B1,850-3,250. Available at Kenkoon showroom, Thonglor Soi 10, 02-711-5701/2. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.facebook.com/PDMBRAND
VEAVE Pat Dharmajiva of Happ Design, the agent of home décor brands 248 Studio and Mamor, has now teamed up with Thinkk Studio for a new outdoor furniture brand. Veave’s products put the focus on traditional Thai weaving techniques in modern color schemes and designs. Various woven materials—from polyethylene to string to palm leaves— are used to create dining chairs, side tables, lamps and a parallel easy chair with ottoman leg rest. Prices start from B15,000. Available at 126/39 Park Avenue, Sukhumvit Soi 63, 02-714-0022. www.veave.net
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DISAYA TK
VEAVE
GREYHOUND
ASAVA
SHOPPING IN SIAM The Siam area encompasses five malls and a warren of small alleys with tiny boutiques, but the best Thai fashion designers are mostly concentrated on the third floor of Siam Center, a four-story mall right by the BTS. Start off with Greyhound (02-260-7121, www.greyhound.co.th). This longstanding Thai brand offers contemporary casual-wear and accessories with an emphasis on catchy graphics and materials. For a classic, feminine look, check out Senada (02-252-2757, tinyurl.com/losnh9g), which offers tops and dresses inspired by nature. Still on the same floor, the popular Milin (02-658-1000, www.milin. com) has a sexy, glamorous style for modern women with attitude. Also worth checking out is Fly Now (02-880-0831/7, www.flynowbangkok.com), one of the first Thai brands to be recognized internationally. Known for its avant-garde designs, Fly Now offers several collections, from smart ready-to-wear outfits and accessories to high-end fashion. Asava (02-662-6526, tinyurl.com/ly2urml) and Disaya (02-690-1000), both on the first floor, are also among Thailand’s A-list fashion brands. PDM BRAND
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AROUND THAILAND
WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM
HUA HIN
THE LATEST OPENINGS AND HAPPENINGS AROUND THE KINGDOM
MAKE A SPLASH
HIT HOSTEL THAPAE
Next time you’re headed to Hua Hin, combine your stay with a visit to what’s been dubbed Asia’s first water jungle. Intercontinental Hua Hin Resort is offering packages that include a night’s stay plus tickets to the newly opened Vana Nava (www. vananava.com) waterpark. The deal starts at B6,900 per room with one ticket to the park or B8,400 per night with three tickets (two adults and one child). Among Vana Nava’s highlights are Thailand’s tallest waterslide, Boomerango, as well as the Abyss, a slide that allows up to six friends to soar from a height of 28 meters. There’s also a bodyboard and surf simulator. Available through Jan 31. For more, visit www. intercontinental.com/huahin or call 032616-999. PHUKET
PRIVATE PARTY
VANA NAVA
MERCURE PATTYYA OCEAN RESORT
PATTAYA
X2 PHUKET OASIS VILLA
CHIANG MAI
JEWEL OF THE OCEAN
HIT THE SPOT
The latest big chain hotel to pop up in Pattaya is Mercure Pattaya Ocean Resort (www.mercure.com, 02-659-2888), which offers 210 contemporary guestrooms plus direct access to the beach—pretty rare in a new opening these days. The hotel comprises 24 Deluxe Ocean View rooms and eight Ocean View Suites offering views of the Gulf of Thailand, plus a mini waterpark boasting a giant slide. This high season, they’re offering an introductory rate of B1,890 per night, through Mar.
The Northern capital has welcomed a new budget accommodation option, Hit Hostel Thapae (053-234-292, tinyurl.com/ klp4a46). Centrally located on Thapae Soi 2, a three-minute walk to Thapae Gate and a 10-minute drive from the airport, the design hostel is decked out with arty graphics on the walls, and features dorms with six beds, eight beds and a women-only room with nine beds. Each bed has a lamp and power plug. The price is B320 per bed per night. There’s also a café downstairs selling Western-style comfort food and classic Thai dishes from 7am-11pm.
The newly opened luxury boutique X2 Phuket Oasis Villa (02-168-7533 ext. 305, tinyurl.com/lyopzmb) takes its inspiration from the surrounding nature and Phuket’s Sino-Portuguese heritage. Catering for groups of 14, the stylish property consists of seven villas surrounding a large swimming pool, complete with daybeds, a spacious lobby, shared kitchen, living room and dining area. The deluxe villa and six standard villas are decorated with Chinese murals, industrial touches, and blue and green furnishings. Through Apr 30, the rate is B48,000 per night for the whole seven-bedroom villa, including round-trip airport transfers. The villa is a 30-minute drive from the airport and a 10-minute walk to Bangtao Beach.
HIT HOSTEL THAPAE
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AROUND THAILAND
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KHAO LAK
MONKEY DIVE
MONKEY DIVE
High-end beach destination Khao Lak recently welcomed an alternative accommodation option, Monkey Dive (081956-5654, www.monkeydivekhaolak. com). Under a diving theme, the design hostel is decked out in vibrant colors and graphics of underwater creatures, offering three room types: a private fan room for two people at a mere B500 per night, an air-con dorm room with four beds at B350 per bed and a bungalow with aircon and private bathroom for two people at B900-1,000 per night. There’s also a café on-site. KHAO YAI
WINTER YARD
ESCAPE KHAO YAI
ESCAPE KHAO YAI
Escape Khao Yai (www.escape-hotel. com, 044-756-669-70), where they’re currently offering a “Winter Yard” package, which includes a luxe camping-like experience with outdoor picnics and afternoon tea, plus a barbecue dinner with craft beer and cocktails, after which you can retreat to your Deluxe Corner Room. The package starts at B4,800, until Jan 31, 2015. SAMUI
ISLAND BREW Small-scale beer and spirit-makers aren’t only on the rise in Bangkok. Samui’s been pretty famous for its Magic Alambic Rum for a while, but now the island’s welcomed its first brewpub, Bee Knees Brewpub (83/3 Moo 2, Tambon Bophut, 085-537-2498, on.fb. me/1G6u9lk), near Chaweng Beach. Englishman Jim Smith brews his beer using mostly organic ingredients and water sourced from a deep well 125 meters below the bar. Currently on offer are Summer Bee, a pilsner-style lager; Black Bee, a chocolate coffee porter; Bitter Bee, an English-style bitter beer; and Wheaty Bee, a wheat beer with a soft fruit flavour. All beers have a relatively low 3.5-5% alcohol content, and are priced from B85 for 1/3 liter and B125 for a half liter.
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DESTINATION
CHIANG MAI HOT SPOTS
10 of our favorite new openings in the Northern capital.
BAY’S CAFE
REFUEL
BAY’S CAFÉ
HOBS
This café is the baby of a Chiang Mai local with a passion for drip coffee and 12-hour cold brew. The drinks here are far less acidic than many of the other cups across town. Also on-site is Food for Thought, an organic food operator who sells salads, sandwiches and wraps made with fresh ingredients, some picked from the backyard. Sukhothai Soi 5, Suthep, 086-732-4205. Open Tue-Sat 10am-8pm
GRAPH CAFÉ
BANN KHANG WAT
SIREEAMPAN
SHOP
BANN KHANG WAT
THINK PARK
Bann Khang Wat is a new community mall with a difference: the vendors are carefully chosen to ensure only conscientious businesses who give back to society through their crafts and products. The 10 wooden-and-concrete houses offer the likes of zakka-style craft shop Jibberish, café-cumguesthouse Enough for Life, DIY craft haven Dai Studio, ceramic shop Bookoo Studio and library-plus-café Mahasamut. Hungry? Head to Home, where they serve a kanom jeen (rice vermicelli) buffet at the low, low price of B79. Its neighbor Yellow Mango is a new Tuscan-style café offering single dishes and soft drinks.
Handily located on the corner of Rinkham Junction, opposite Maya Mall at the beginning of Nimmanhaemin Road, Think Park comprises shops selling crafts and clothes from local designers. You’ll find a few good drinking spots like Doqaholic Café (083003-0406, open daily 5:30pm-00:30am), with nightly live music, and Kafevino Bar & Bistro (084-595-5777, open daily 4pmmidnight), which serves coffee by day and wine by night. It also hosts a flea market every Saturday night but it’s not bustling.
Opposite Wat Ram Poeng, 095-691-0888, 090-0569042. Open daily 10am-6pm
Rimkham Junction. Open daily 10am-1am
Probably the tiniest café in Chiang Mai, Graph draws in the caffeine-loving crowd with brews made from medium-roasted Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai beans. The barista Tee used to run a café of the same name in Sangkhlaburi and plans to open a pizza and pasta joint called Grain next January. You must try the new cold brews at B250 a bottle. 25/1, Ratvithi Lane 2, Sriphoom, 081-751-2365, Open daily 9am-6pm
STAY
SIREEAMPAN The new luxury resort consists of 11 gorgeous suites and an exterior inspired by the early Rattanakosin Era. Staying here is all about experiencing traditional Thai customs, starting at the entrance, where you’re asked to take your shoes off. Their breakfast is served whenever and wherever you want, spanning à la carte dishes and hampers packed with fresh-baked pastries and yogurts. Room rates start from B10,000 for a studio and B12,800 for an S-Class Suite. 88/8 Moo 1, Changpuak, 053-327-777. www.sireeampan.com
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DRINK
NAP This dimly-lit industrial bar serves local and imported beers along with a small wine list. Unlike other nightlife spots in town, this place opens at 10am for the brunch crowd. Thai and Western food with highlights like grilled pork with spicy naam jim jaew. Nimmanhaemin Rd. (opposite Mon Nom Sod), 089954-9614. Open daily 4pm-midnight
HOBS This Northern flagship of the Bangkok brand offers seats on the terrace and rooftop just perfect for downing a cold beer or two. Just like in Bangkok, the brews come from the UK, Belgium, Germany, Spain and beyond. Our pick? Brewdog’s Punk IPA on tap. Enjoy it with the barbecue pork ribs. Kantary Terrace, Nimmanhaemin Rd., Suthep, 053289-313. Open 6pm-midnight
EAT
FARM STORY This two-story home-turned-restaurant uses only homegrown, chemical-free ingredients. Try the exotic nam prik pgaz koen yau (Karen-style chili paste) and their Northern hang lay pork curry with organic rice. The coffee and tea is another main draw; we recommend the khao niew leum pua tea (glutinous rice tea, B70). The place is tiny, too, with only 10 seats. 7 Ratchadamnoen Soi 5, 081-629-1662. Open daily 8am-4pm
LITTLE COOK This much-loved kitchen is run by a street artist, Kob, and his partner, Err, who source ingredients from local producers to create super-fresh dishes. “Here in Chiang Mai, we’re so lucky to have an abundance of fresh produce. Driving just 30 minutes out of the city, you find lots of great farms,” says Err. Highlights include salads made with big, juicy vegetables, strawberries, grapes, passion fruit and mango. We also like the tangy spaghetti chili and garlic (B130), and locally-sourced pork steak (B350) and wagyu beef steak (B400), which comes from cattle raised in Mae Rim, Chiang Mai. Don’t miss their delightful fruit soda drinks (no alcohol here).
NAP
Saha Sripoom Place, Changpuek, 085-7141189. Open Mon-Sat 6-9pm
RUSTIC & BLUE With its rustic décor, this cozy café looks like a Pinterest board sprung to life. The main appeal, however, is the tea. Owner Min carefully blends her caffeine-free teas from both leaves and fruits, with our picks being the lavender peach and zesty orange rooibos. Do try the barbecue pulled-pork brioche burger, too. They also do homemade Chorizo, house salami and homemade Feta cheese as well as homemade blue & gorgonzola cheese at B100 per 100 grams. De Marche Nimmanhaemin Soi 7, 086-654-7178. Open daily 8am-midnight
LITTLE COOK
RUSTIC & BLUE
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whereExploring JANUARY 2015 | BANGKOK
SILOM COMPLEX
SILOM Silom is the long street running from Lumphini Park, practically all the way to the Chao Praya River. The road’s first half, which is mostly within walking distance of the BTS Sala Daeng skytrain station and the underground MRT Silom station, is one of the most diverse neighborhoods in Bangkok. Flanked by Surawong Road and Sathorn Road, Silom encompasses gleaming office buildings, gritty street-food stalls, high-end European restaurants, two alleys packed with gay bars, three distinct red light districts, a night market, high-end boutiques carrying local brands and a host of spas.
NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 20 SILOM
22 SUKHUMVIT SOIS 31 TO 49
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EXPLORING
SILOM
Y HOT SPOTS
Thai Eats
Benjarong Thai fine-dining in a high-end hotel which incorporates European slowcooking methods, and is plated with considerate modern touches. !5 Dusit Thani, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02200-9000
Somtum Der Typical street food in a modern shop-house setting. The menu focuses on somtam, a spicy Thai papaya salad, and other classic Northeastern dishes. @0 5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-
EVERYDAY BY KARMAKAMET Bangkok-based aromatic products brand Karmakamet is behind this cute coffee shop tucked away in the small soi right next to the Yada Building, in the heart of Silom. Unlike its sisters in Chatuchak and CentralWorld, the boutique not only sells aromatic home and body products but also pastries and drinks. It also stocks items for the home, like tableware, pillows and napkins, alongside bags and T-shirts from cool local brands like Container and The Sleeveless Garden.
4499
1 G/F , Yada Building, Silom Rd., 02-237-1148
SHOP Right next to BTS Sala Daeng, the 2 Silom Complex (Silom Rd., 02-6321199) mall is easy to spot. Despite being one of the more modest shopping centers in town, it’s home to a few local brands that may pique your interest. Jaspal (G/F) is Thailand’s answer to Zara, but is a bit bolder and more exciting. Viera (2/F) does very elegant and well-crafted leather bags and shoes at reasonable prices. Labrador (G/F) also has a lot of leather goods but in a much more minimal style better suited to architects, product designers and university students—it’s also a good place to find little gifts to take back home. If you’re looking for something with a bit more soul, check out 3 Whitespace
Gallery (4/F, 1 Sala Daeng Soi 1/7-9, 02-235-2500), a platform for young emerging artists with more of an experimental, avant-garde leaning. You can also spot some cool art at Eat Me (see dining). If you’re looking for that classic Thai gift, the original 4 Jim Thompson (Surawong Rd., 02234-4900) boutique is in the area, too. With four floors, it’s the biggest in town, with the usual range of shawls and ties but also an in-house tailor and even furniture. Speaking of tailors, 5 July (Soi Saladaeng, 02-233-0171) is where Thailand’s senior boardroom execs get their suits made. Come nightfall, Silom’s sidewalks and all of 6 Soi Patpong turn into one big night market selling fake watches, bootleg DVDs and cheap souvenirs. We don’t recommend it, but this is also where you can see Bangkok’s notorious ping-pong-launching ladies. Be warned that on your way out, you may be presented with a bill for several thousands of baht even though you only had a couple beers.
WHITESPACE GALLERY
EATING Soi Thaniya is a little Japan Town. By day, it looks like an endless row of ramen restaurants (we recommend 7 Ramentei [Soi Thaniya, 02-2348082]). By night, it becomes crowded with ladies in Singapore Airlines uniforms and sexy cocktail gowns.
Ruen Urai This century-old house outfitted with beautiful antiques is just as stunning outside as inside. Don’t miss the grilled river prawns with spicy galangal dressing and wild boar sautéed with spicy curry. @1 Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72
RAMENTEI
Not that you’ll get into these hostess bars unless you’re Japanese. Our top picks for fine dining would be 8 Serina (9/26 Surawong Rd., Soi Jim Thompson, 02-235-8382), a refined teppanyaki with a superb decor; and 9 Aoi (132/10-12 Silom Rd., 02-2352321), which is much further down, inside Silom Soi 6. The kaiseki sets are appropriately elaborate and the
Yen Ta Fo JC Saladaeng A dash of shocking pink from the fermented bean curd, a bit of crunch from the pickled squid, a handful of chewy fish balls—this is a dish for the adventurous.
@2 Soi Saladaeng 2, behind Central Silom Complex
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EXPLORING
SILOM
cific Rim and Mediterranean cuisine in a gorgeous modernist setting (See also page 7).
Y SPOTLIGHT
DRINKING & RELAXING
!4 Cloud 47 (47/F, United Center, Silom Rd., 091-889-9600) has stunning views of the central business district with surprisingly cheap prices. Give the main dishes a miss and instead opt for fried bar snacks to accompany jugs of draught Singha and Absolut vodka cocktails. Other-
VESPER
incredibly fresh sashimi comes in massive slices bursting with flavor. There are several Thai options of note in the area, too (see box, page 18), but Silom is just as famous for its French and Italian restaurants. !0 Zanotti Il Ristorante Italiano (1/F, Saladaeng Colonnade Condominium, 21/2 Soi Sala Daeng, 02-636-0002) whips up authentic Piedmontese cuisine while !1 Indigo (6 Convent Rd., 02-235-3268) is a French expat-favorite. For something more modern, we recommend you head further down to !2 Vesper (10/15 Convent Rd., 02-235-2777), which has some of the best cocktails in town and a very capable Italian chef, or !3 Eat Me (1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931), where chef Tim Butler cooks up Pa-
Gay Silom
CLOUD 47
wise, just spoil yourself at !5 Devarana Spa (Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-636-3596), truly one of the best in Bangkok for an over-the-top spa session that goes well beyond a simple Thai massage.
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The area is home to a few gay enclaves. If you want to catch a show, the notorious !6 Soi Twilight, off Surawong Road, puts on productions that mix on-stage sex acts and drag queen performances. Drinks are about B300 a pop no matter what you order, but at least there is no extortion going on when you get the bill. Shows take place at regular intervals between 7pm and midnight. For something a bit more chill, sip a Singha in !7 Silom Soi 4, home to venerable gay institutions like Telephone. Come midnight, saunter up the street to !8 Silom Soi 2. Note that you will need I.D. to get in and they don’t make exceptions unless you look like you’re pushing 40. Soi 2 is lined with bars, but you’ll need to go straight to the end of the alley for DJ Station, the queen mother of gay clubs in town. There, you’ll meet upcountry freelancers, shirtless gym bunnies from Singapore or Hong Kong, aging European sugar daddies and jet-lagged flight attendants. The ones with the most resilience (or the best dealers) end up at !9 G.O.D, in nearby Soi 2/1, which doesn’t really happen until DJ Station closes at 2am.
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1 Everyday by Karmakamet !3 Eat Me 2 Silom Complex !4 Cloud 47 3 Whitespace Gallery !5 Dusit Thani Hotel 4 Jim Thompson - Devarana Spa . 5 July - Benjarong a Rd Nu n 6 Soi Patpong !6 Soi Twilight o Sath 7 Ramentei !7 Silom Soi 4 . 8 Serina !8 a Silom i RdSoi 2 T n 9 Aoi o !9 G.O.D Sath @0 Somtum Der !0 Zanotti Il Ristorante Italiano !1 Indigo @1 Ruen Urai !2 Vesper @2 Yen Ta Fo JC Saladaeng
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EXPLORING
SUKHUMVIT SOIS 31-49 Y SPOTLIGHT
Asian Flavors
From vibrant Lao salads to steaming bowls of Japanese ramen, the area is a hotbed of great Asian cuisine.
!4 Thai Lao Yeh Fiery Lao and Northern dishes in an elegant boutique hotel meant to evoke the home of an affluent family living somewhere in 1920s Asia. Just as importantly, all the ingredients feel incredibly fresh and service is impeccable. Cabochon Bangkok, 14/29 Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-259-28713. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10:30pm.
CASA LAPIN X49 Rough wood tables, exposed brickwork, moody lighting and imposing-looking coffee equipment—this charming but tiny cafe offers a slice of Brookyn in Bangkok thanks to the owner’s keen eye for decorating (by day he’s an interior designer). Not just a pretty space, they also serve a serious cup of coffee—choose from espresso machine, drip or French press, expertly made and served with baked goods sourced from young Thai entrepeneurs. 1 Opposite Samitivej Hospital, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 081-257-7920. Open daily 7:30am-9:30pm
S
ukhumvit is one very long road (it stretches all the way to Pattaya, a couple hours’ drive from Bangkok). But one of its most happening area is between sois (that’s Thai for streets) 31 and 49, a veritable warren of alleys packed with the city’s best art, crab curry, coffee and sake. GALLERIES AND ATTRACTIONS On the top floors of a luxury shopping mall, 2 Thailand Creative and Design Center (6/F, The Emporium, 02-664-8448) is the country’s leading design museum, home to rotating
exhibitions, a permanent collection of style icons from the Nintendo Gameboy to the Vespa, and a beautiful li-
This bright white dining space decked out with chandeliers and ink drawings from 18th century Europe serves some of the best dim sum in town. We’re particularly fond of the steamed rice rolls with crispy shrimps. Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-3565. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:309:30pm; Sat-Sun 10:30am-9:30pm.
CAFFE WHAT IF
THE ADLER SUBHASHOK GALLERY
TCDC
!2 Hong Bao
brary overlooking Benjasiri Park. For exhibitions of contemorary fine art, head to 3 The Adler Subhashok Gallery (160/3 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-0299), which has ambitions of making Thai art as big as Chinese art 10 years ago. Expect Thailand’s foremost contemporary artists. For a spot of shopping and a cup of coffee,
4 Caffe What If (The Green Connect, 235/10 Sukhumvit 31, 02-662-8048) also sells decorative home items, craft beers from Hitachino, Marou chocolate bars from Vietnam and savory dishes like osso buco. Their coffee beans are also excellent. HEALTH AND WELLNESS After a morning on your feet, head to 5 Chillax Spa (12/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-258-5018) for some pampering. Apart from the usual Thai and aroma massages and body scrubs, this spa also specializes in rejuvena-
!6 Bankara Ramen This ramen favorite is known for its fatty tonkotsu broth, served with perfectly al dente noodles and various forms of intensely flavorful slow-cooked chashu. A cholesterol attack, yes, but definitely worth trying. The three-day-braised pork belly is delicious. The Manor, 32 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-622-5162/3. Open daily 11am11pm.
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EXPLORING
SUKHUMVIT SOIS 31-49 tion therapies for heavy partygoers. Oh, and there’s even a bar. If nail treatment is what you’re after, check out 6 Ten Ten (593/2 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-259-3510), where they promise to use only the best nail products from well-established brands such as OPI, Joico and Guinot. DINING Whether you want Thai, Western or Japanese, this is the spot to be. The Australian chef at 7 Paste (120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-392-4313) uses modern techniques to transform
PASTE
wonderful produce into some of the most intriguing Thai food around. Every mint leaf, every pickled chili is bursting with flavor. You can tell everything is
0515-6), serving a nose-to-tail-influenced menu in a moody and industrial setting. If upscale and contemporary is what you’re after, try !2 The Library by Water Library (Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-3564), where comforting brasserie dishes are paired with finedining service. They also do an excellent brunch menu of eggs benedict crab cake and brioche French toast. Nearby, the three story tangle of concrete beams, steel cables and ferns that is !3 Aston Dining Room & Bar (68 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-102-2323) serves an inventive five-course chef’s table menu using only the best produce: beef from Australia, quail from France, and locally-sourced vegetables and suckling pigs.
QUINCE
homemade and, where possible, from locally-sourced ingredients. For Italian,
8 Appia (20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02261-2056) is firmly the city’s safest bet, offering authentically home-style Roman cuisine, from rustic pastas to crispy roast pork. Just around the corner, you’ll find its casual sister, 9Peppina (27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-119-7677), which does wonderful Naples-style pizza. Part of a new wave of casual international restaurants that emphasize excellent food over fine dining formality, its contemporaries include !0 Quince (Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478), where you can find Mediterranean-inspired food (plus excellent wine and cocktails) in a bright and airy dining room, and !1 Smith (1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-
Y SPOTLIGHT
Hanakaruta
This Japanese izakaya is one hell of a place to get a good drink. The barman is very passionate, often inviting guests to taste spirit after spirit before mixing them a personalized cocktail that’s served with an ice ball carved right before your eyes. The selection of Japanese whiskies and sake is vast, as is evident from the gigantic wall of liquor bottles behind the bar. Tasty Japanese bar snacks are also available. !6 36/4 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-6627339. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-2am.
ASTON DINING ROOM & BAR
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ThewhereGuide JANUARY 2015 | BANGKOK
HOBS THE RIVERFEAST HOBS, a local chain of beer-focused pubs, welcomes Thailand’s brief “winter“ season with a pop-up beer garden at Canapaya Residence by the Chao Phraya riverside. The bar offers a list of on-tap beers including Hoegaarden, Stella Artois, Leffe and Boddingtons along with a wide range of bottles. It is also the venue of live performances from local pop artists. For reservations, call 080777-3325 or 094-439-8236. Through Mar 29, 2015. Canapaya Residence, 888 Rama 3 Rd. 02-291-9499. Open daily 5pm-1am.
BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 25 DINING 28 NIGHTLIFE
32 HEALTH + WELLNESS 33 SHOPS + SERVICES
34 ART + ATTRACTIONS 35 PROPERTY
36 NAVIGATE
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GUIDE
DINING
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L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON NEW
Borrowing the same concepts from all L’Atelier branches, this elegant red and black space has diners seated around a large open kitchen, a format more remniscent of a sushi bar than classic dining a la Francaise. The food remains unmistakably French, though —think free range quail stuffed with foie gras and potato purée—and with all the finesse you’d expect from Joel Robuchon, the chef with the most Michelin stars in the world. 5/F, 96 Mahanakorn Cube, Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. 02-001-0698
Y SPOTLIGHT
Hot Spots GREAT AL FRESCO DINING
1
RED SKY
The 55th floor view from Centara’s rooftop puts this bar in the same league as high flyers like Vertigo at the Banyan Tree. Al fresco dining and drinking takes place under a swooping, red-lit arch in an environment that is somewhat more relaxed than the adjoining Fifty Five restaurant. Chef Hugo Coudurier prepares a menu focused on high-quality steaks, best enjoyed with a drop from the hotel’s notably excellent wine cellar. 55/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Siam
2
MANOHRA
MANOHRA
Set on a restored old rice barge, this intimate cruise seats 40 people and offers two set dinner packages: Gold comprises 12 Thai dishes and Silver eight dishes. Sample classics like tom yum kung (spicy prawn soup with herbs and lime juice) and massaman nong kai (chicken Muslim curry), while enjoying beautiful views of Wat Pho and Wat Arun. Finish your meal with Thai desserts like khao niew mamoung (sweet mango with sticky rice). RED SKY
Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa, 257 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-477- 0770. www.manohracruises.com. Open daily 7:30pm-9:30pm
Thang Long One of the most upscale Vietnamese restaurants in Bangkok, the establishment has a very crisp design, with heavy dark furniture and an imposing bar quite reminiscent of a modern steakhouse. Its best dishes include the deep-fried fish with lemongrass—crisp, flavorful and impressively presented—and the melt-in-your-mouth tender Thang Long beef steak. For those unfamiliar with Vietnamese food, the picture menu is a real savior. 82/5 Soi Lang Suan, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-251-3504. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-2pm, 5-11pm
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TASTEOFTHECITY DINING GUIDE
Recent Openings
MEJICO
The new Mexican player in town does not follow the usual format of big portions and a casual atmosphere
2/F, Groove @ CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 081-616-4026. Open Sun-Thu 11am-midnight; Fri-Sat 11-1am
ROCKET S 49
Bangkok’s stylish brunch-and-cocktail empire expands to Thonglor.
1/F, Grease building, Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-6637. Open daily 7am-11pm Christian Hogue
SALT SMOKE
A microscopic burger bar from the owners of Salt, within spitting distance of Salt.
Piyawan Bldg., Ari Soi 1, 0898741205. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight
LENZI TUSCAN KITCHEN
An old face serves up authentic dishes from central Italy.
Ruam Rudee Soi 2, 02-001-0116. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight
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GUIDE
DINING
3
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KRAM
Kram does simple Thai comfort food in a house filled with plants and wooden furniture. The adorable outdoor area has bean bag, picnic-style seating, hanging light bulbs and movies projected onto the wall. The kitchen serves up classic Thai dishes including gaeng kua poo bai chaploo (curry with crabmeat and wild betel leaf), pla rak gluay pad prik khing (stir-fried horseface loach with chili paste) and woonsen dork kajorn pad khai (stirfried glass noodles with cowslip creeper). 113 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-258-8170. Open Tue-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm; Sat-Sun 11am-11pm.
STREET FOOD CENTRAL: SUKHUMVIT SOI 38
KRAM
4
SALA RATTANAKOSIN EATERY & BAR
This boutique hotel is a welcome addition to the Chao Phraya riverside and offers stunning views of Wat Arun. The renovated four-story shop-house boasts a small number of guestrooms but half of the building is dedicated to wining and dining, courtesy of chef Tony Wrigley, whose restaurant whips up some pretty impressive Thai food. For us though, the highlight is its rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping a great selection of cocktails.
Conveniently located right next to BTS Thong Lo, Sukhumvit Soi 38 is a lively hub of good street food featuring numerous stalls specializing in Thai and Thai-Chinese specialties. Though many stalls don’t have name signs, they do offer menus in English with food pictures. The operation starts from about 5pm and runs through the early morning hours so you can drop by before or after your night out in Sukhumvit. Highlights include the ba mee puu moo-daeng (yellow noodles with crab and roast pork, B40-B50), kao man kai (rice with steamed chicken or fried chicken, B50-60), kuay tiew kua kai (stir-fried chicken noodles, Btk), and pork entrails soup with vegetables and seafood (B70). There are also many shop-house-style restaurants along the road. Look out for the one specializing in khao soi (chicken or pork noodles in coconut milk curry, B50), identified by the Chinese doughnut seller out front. There are quite a few dessert stalls too, selling everything from ice cream to the classic Thai dessert kao niew ma muang (sticky rice with sweet mango, B60-80), which can be found at the beginning of the street.
Maharaj Rd., 02-622-1388. Open daily 7am-10pm
COOKERY 3 Thai Cooking schools
ISSAYA COOKING STUDIO
ISSAYA COOKING STUDIO Central Embassy, 1031 Ploen Chit Rd., 02-1605636. BTS Phloen Chit. www.fb.com/ issayastudio BLUE ELEPHANT 233 Sathorn Rd, 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak. www.blueelephant.com/bangkok CHON The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., 02-206-6999. Open daily noon-11pm. www.thesiamhotel.com
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NIGHTLIFE NEW
VOGUE LOUNGE
This cocktail bar serves more than just expensive drinks. They’ve brought onboard a high-profile chef, Vincent Thierry, formerly of the two-Michelin-star Caprice in Hong Kong, to create a menu of incredibly elegant (and equally delicious) small plates such as wagyu sirloin with black truffle potato and bone marrow butter. The 1920s-inspired bar features a small indoor area dominated by plum leather, bronze and marble, while outside is a beautiful air-conditioned terrace. Complement the delicate bites with light and fruity cocktails like the vodka, absinthe and passionfruit Mahanakhon Julep. 6/F, Mahanakhon Cube, Narathiwas Rd., 02-0010697. BTS Chong Nonsi
Hot Spots BARS WITH GREAT THAI FOOD
1
ROOFTOP BARS
HOT ROD
Where to get the best views of the city
From the same designer behind the Dickensian-themed Iron Fairies (nearby, on Thonglor) and the 1930s Shanghai-inspired Maggie Choo (on Silom Rd.), this small bar and restaurant dishes out a sophisticated menu of creative or rare Thai dishes and elaborate cocktails. Join the dozen happy few who can fit at its circular bar and nibble on Northern Thaistyle terrine while sipping on a mix of rum and jackfruit. Room A103, G/F, Park Lane, Sukhumvit Soi 63, 02-7142575. BTS Ekkamai. Open daily 6pm-midnight
NAMSAAH BOTTLING TRUST
3
HOT ROD
2
SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN
The restaurant dishes out very potent (double pours, actually) original signature cocktails like the Bun Bang Fai (a mix of tequila, lime, chilli, almond syrup and egg white) as well as a brief menu of perfectly executed Thai regional dishes like khao mok kai, tamarind ribs and pad krapao made with Australian lamb. This winning combo has a heady, infectious effect on hip, beautiful people, being packed almost every night of the week. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 085-904-2691, 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-midnight
NAMSAAH BOTTLING TRUST
One of the partners at this new venue, set in a 100-year-old house painted pink, is aclaimed local chef Ian Kittichai. His menu is all about twists on Asian comfort food, like pad Thai with duck and foie gras or salmon tartare wonton tacos. Downstairs specializes in cocktails, with a long list of recognizable classics given local twists, while upstairs offers more formal dining in a brightly wallpapered setting. ABOVE ELEVEN
401 Silom Soi 7, 02-636-6622. BTS Chong Nonsi
4
TUBA
This spacious two-story restaurant triples as a gallery, bar and retro furniture shop. Come here for Thai dishes and Western fare whipped up to suit the local palate, admire the works of aspiring artists, wind down with earlyevening cocktails (two-for-one ends at 8pm) or head upstairs for a late-night karaoke session. It might not be fine dining, but the atmosphere is spot-on. 34/11-12 Ekamai Soi 21, 02-711-5500. Open daily 11pm-2am
ABOVE ELEVEN 33/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Nana OCTAVE 45/F, Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02797-0000. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo RED SKY 55/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-1001234. Open daily 5:30pm-1am. BTS Siam/Chit Lom
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GUIDE
NIGHTLIFE
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NIGHT CALL Our favorite nightclubs (Go at 10:30pm, they close around 2am)
SAB BAR BY SANSAB
5
SAB BAR BY SANSAB
This sports bar specializes in Northeastern Thai (Isaan) food, reinvented to match perfectly with a cold beer. As well as classics like laab moo tod (spicy, deep-fried balls of minced pork) and somtam, there are also fusion dishes such as laab ped nachos (corn chips coated in Thai-spiced mince-meat). The sports-themed décor provides the perfect setting to watch the big game, while Mon-Thu they have a buy-one-getone-free deal on select beers.
Grease
Badmotel
Multiple stories of dance floors play everything from trap to chillout 46/12-13 Sukhumvit Soi 49, opposite Villa supermarket
Regular alt DJ events, a big al fresco courtyard and rugged-yet stylish décor make this restaurant-cumclub a hit with Bangkok’s hipsters. Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), between sois 15 and 17
Do Not Disturb
LAVELS
One of Bangkok’s newest nightlife venues plays EDM in a space that blends Americana with cult Japanese references. Ekkamai Soi 7 Bangkok, behind Nunglen and Escobar
Levels This flashy club and lounge attracts beautiful singles with chart hip-hop and plenty of ladies’ night promos. 6/F, Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11. BTS Nana
87/5-6 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-712-6141. Open daily noon-midnight
Glow An after-hours favorite thanks to very late (or should that be early?) opening hours and a roster of international DJs. Go around 1am, closes around 3am. 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23
DJ Station, see Silom Guide, page 20
Insanity, see below
DO NOT DISTURB
Y SPOTLIGHT
Insanity Nightclub On any given night, hundreds of people party till late at this cavernous nightclub slap-bang in the middle of Sukhumvit. Get there before midnight to make the best of daily promotions, with up to 50 percent off selected drinks. Expect seriously loud music (the club has one of the best sound systems in town), visiting international DJs and plenty of dancing ladies on podiums. 234 Sukhumvit Soi 12, 02-653-2923. BTS Asok. Open daily until late
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GUIDE TO
SUKHUMVIT 11 NIGHTCLUB A
CLUB C THE VAULT SPEAKEASY CLUB 082-308-3246 www.vault-bangkok.com www.facebook.com/vaultspeakeasyclub
The new, elegantly designed nightclub and lounge is in¬spired by speakeasies, or illegal drinking spots, and the glamorous art deco architecture of 1920s banks. With its retro-modern interior and opulent leather sofas, The Vault’s custom crafted bar serves up sophisticatedly refined cocktails. Music ranges from live jazz to upfront house, deep sexy tech house and nu-disco, delivered by resident DJ Fred Jungo. Open daily from 9pm-2am.
The popular nightlife venue located in the heart of Bangkok’s party scene, Levels Club & Lounge, promises an unforgettable party¬ing experience. It offers a world-class audio-visual environment, a sizeable dance floor and features Bangkok’s hottest DJs. There are special weekly promotions like the Thursday’s TOO SEXY Ladies Night, where girls gets three free drinks before midnight. Open daily 9pm till late. This January sees guest DJ Amadeus on Jan 8, DJ Borgeous on Jan 15 (B500/ticket with one free drink) and DJ Moguai on Jan 29. Check their website for a full lineup and promotions.
HIP HOP & LIVE MUSIC B
NIGHTCLUB A Asoke Rd.
Petchaburi Soi 19
V CLUB 082 308 3246 www.facebook.com/VClubBangkok
Soi 15
Probably the most cutting edge dance music venue on Soi 11, the newly reopened V Club is located inside Levels Club & Lounge. The venue has been totally revamped with all new décor, a state of the art “Pyramid” DJ booth and a brand new sound & lighting system that will keep party goers on their feet all night long. It features world-class local and international DJs spinning the freshest house sounds from Ibiza to Miami. V Club, has hosted some of the hottest names in the business such as D. Ramirez, M.A.N.D.Y., James Zabiela, Technasia, Richard Durand, Leeroy Thornhill (The Prodigy), Ramon Tapia and Riva Starr. Experience the all new V Club Wednesday thru Saturday from 10pm till late.
Klong Saen Saep
08 2308 3246 www.levelsclub.com www.facebook.com/levelsclub
Petchaburi Rd.
LEVELS CLUB & LOUNGE
Soi 13 C
Soi 11
A
E
G D
B
Soi 9 Soi 7/1
SUGAR CLUB 08 2308 3246 www.facebook.com/SugarClubBangkok
The brand new nightlife venue has been shaking up Soi 11 since its grand opening on Oct 1. Specializing in live bands and hip-hop, Sugar features outstanding local bands and DJs spinning the hottest hip-hop every night of the week. Sugar features a one of kind stage with the drummer floating overhead and a five-meter catwalk that puts the party crowd right in the middle of the action. All this plus a team of sexy Sugar dancers makes this venue the place to be on Sukhumvit Soi 11. It’s open to a large segment of party people that enjoy high quality entertainment but at great value, with B100 drinks, an open bar for only B500 and B999 bottles before midnight.
H
Soi 7 PUB F
Soi 5 THE KIWI 02 653 3144 thekiwibangkok.com/en www.facebook.com/TheKIWIBangkok
The Kiwi on Soi 8 is a long-time favorite with expats and visitors thanks to its welcoming pub atmosphere, and outdoor terrace - the perfect place to watch live sports. It also has a good reputation for delicious hearty meals from a pub breakfast to classic fish and chips. They also do a “Free BBQ” every Tuesday and a great roast dinner from noon every Sunday. Watch Live sports: NRL, AFL, EPL, F1 and many more.
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GUIDE TO
SUKHUMVIT 11 OUTDOOR TERRACE D
Y
OUTDOOR LOUNGE C KAZBAR 02 651 3313 www.facebook.com/Kazbarbangkok
New to Soi 11, The Kazbar is an al fresco street-side Shisha lounge located at the entrance to the Prime 11 building. This “Oasis of 11” boasts a lounge vibe, an intriguing tapas menu, chilled tunes and reasonably priced ice cold beers and specialty cocktails. Open from 6pm till late every day.
BAR & GRILL G
Sukhumvit Asok
Ratch
adap
hisek
Rd.
Soi 14
Soi 10 F
H
Nana
1
Soi 6
Soi 8
B
082 308 3246 www.qbarbangkok.com www.facebook.com/QBarBangkok
This well-known fixture on the nightlife scene has been running for over 14 years and was voted Best Bar in Bangkok by readers of leading city living publication BK Magazine. The nightlife institution welcomes interna¬tional DJs from all over the world as well as Bangkok’s cream of the crop. Fresh from a re¬cent renovation, you can now take advantage of special promotions every night of the week including a promotion on Sunday to Thurs¬day, where B500 gets you free entrance and a free bar on standard drinks from 9pm to midnight. Open daily from 9pm till late.
CoyoteMexicanBarGrillBangkok
Rama 4 Rd.
Sukhumvit Rd.
Soi 12
Queen Sirikit National COYOTE MEXICAN BAR & GRILL Convention 02-651-3313 www.coyotebangkok.com Centre www.facebook.com/
Q BAR
The newly opened stylish margarita bar and Mexican restaurant on Sukhumvit Soi 11 makes one hot addition to Bangkok’s dining scene. It specializes in Southwestern grill and margaritas, offering unique items like im¬ported smoked chipotle chilies, achiote paste with more than 50 hot sauces, and 75 different margaritas including the Black Forest Margari¬ta (tequila, triple sec, blackberries, blueberries and cream) and the Mint Chocolate Margarita (tequila, triple sec, mint chocolate liqueur and lime juice in a chocolate coated glass). The au¬thentic Southwestern dishes include mesquite grilled meats and all-timefavorites like Que¬sadillas, Coyote Nachos served with shredded grilled chicken and diced chorizo, and Cowboy skewers. Open daily from 11am-1am. Brunch is available on Sat-Sun.
COCKTAIL & TAPAS BAR C
AZURA LOUNGE BAR 08 2308 3246 www.facebook.com/AzuraLoungebarBkk
PUB E THE AUSTRALIAN PUB & BBQ 02 651 0800 www.theaustralianbangkok.com www.facebook.com/TheAussiePub
Situated in the heart of Soi 11, “The Aussie,” as it’s known to locals, is a great spot for sports fans. In fact, they feature no less than 14 flat-screens and two projectors constantly showing live sports from around the world including the AFL and NRL. There’s also live music every day of the week, an impressive pub grub menu that includes specialties like Crocodile Kebabs and a chance watch the world go by on the street-side terrace.
Sukhumvit Soi 11’s newest lounge bar Azura, which was inspired by the laid back style and ‘Azure’ blue seas of the Mediterranean, serves a wide selection of delicious Greek and Spanish tapas in a cool, relaxed outdoor setting. At the bar you’ll find unique and re-freshing cocktails designed by expert mixolo¬gists, while world-class DJs spin the perfect preclub soundtrack. Get down there for the Sundowner Cocktail Buffet from 7-9pm.
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HEALTH + WELLNESS THETA STATE FLOAT CENTER NEW
The brand new Theta State Float Center claims to induce a deep level of relaxation with its two futuristic float pods and two float rooms. Both types of chamber are soundproof and lightproof, filled with around 25 centimeters of dense, skin-temperature Epsom saltwater, which allows you to float effortlessly on the surface (just like the Dead Sea), removing all body pressure points in the process. Prices start from B1,950 for 60-minute float. Memberships are also available. 8/1, 24th Avenue Mall, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-261-7943. Open Tue-Sun 10am-10pm.
Hot Spots THAI MASSAGE DONE RIGHT
1
HEALTH LAND (EKKAMAI)
Set in a grand, Thai-style building in front of Ekkamai Soi 10, this is considered one of the best spas in Bangkok thanks to its clean facilities, well-trained staff and wallet-friendly prices. A two-hour traditional Thai massage is also reasonably priced, accounting for its local popularity. Unlike most street-side massage shops, its Thai massages are done in private rooms. They also have another branch at Sathorn Soi 10.
96/1 Sukhumvit Soi 10 (Ekamai), 02-392-2233. Open daily 9am-11pm.
2
MYTH
3
SPA AT FACE
This spa rolls out massages that utilize old-school principles, and its most popular is the Wat Pho Healer, which starts with your choice of body scrubs using Thai herbs, and an Ayurvedic massage or an herbal compress and oil massage, before focusing on your head, feet, back and shoulder. Afterwards, enjoy a drink at the Face Bar and some food at Hazara Indian restaurant in the same beautiful compound of wooden Thai houses. 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-713-6048. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 9am-7pm.
Its massages are heavily influenced by the Wat Pho school—credited as the birthplace of Thai massage—and are performed using their own blend of essential oils. The modernrustic decor could come straight from a five-star hotel, but the prices are much more down-to-earth, while the main treatment room is arranged in the traditional, Thai-style communal format. There’s also a delightful al fresco bar, a boutique selling Thai-made textiles, and a private fortune-telling service.
Built in the traditional Northern Lannastyle and set in a tranquil tropical garden not far from the outlet store of Jim Thompson, this Thai massage house offers a wide range of treatments such as traditional Thai massage, foot reflexology, aromatherapy massage, Swedish massage, sport massage, slimming massage and herbal compress, all at reasonble prices. Also check out the collection of bath and body products, made with natural ingredients, by its sister line, Pimm. 2105/1 Sukhumvit Soi 81-83, 02-742-6452. Open daily 9:30am-10pm. BTS Phra Khanong.
Y SPOTLIGHT
28/3 Soi Ruam Rudi, Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., 02-651-5600-1. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily noonmidnight.
SPA AT FACE
4
WAT PHO
Located next to the Grand Palace , this is one of the oldest temples in Bangkok, home to the 43-meter-long reclining Buddha and credited as the birthplace of Thai massage. The temple massage school still runs today, meaning visitors can get some of the most authentic massage anywhere in the city. They alo run short courses for anyone who’d like to learn for themselves. Sanam Chai Rd., 02-255-4771. Open daily 8am6pm. MYTH
5
PIMMALAI
I.Sawan Residential Spa & Club
Designed by Tony Chi, this club-style spa is one of the most beautiful in Bangkok. The setting feels more like a jungle resort than a city spa. Its 7,000 sq-meter space features six residential spa cottages, nine treatment bungalows, a hair salon and a nail bar—not to mention a modern fitness center, squash and tennis courts plus a 25-meter pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am-11pm. BTS Chit Lom
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GUIDE
SHOPPING NEW
Y
THE EMPORIUM
The high-end mall The Emporium just underwent a facelift, but still offers a plethora of luxury brand-name stores from all over the world. Joining familiar labels such as Louis Vuitton, Bvlgari, Loewe, Cartier, Chanel, Dior and Prada are popular brands like Tiffany & Co., Burberry, Dior Homme, Tod’s and Charlotte Olympia—all opening shops for the first time in Thailand. Still to come are another two adjacent luxe malls, EmQuartier and Emsphere, which are scheduled to open later in 2015 and 2016, respectively. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong.
Hot Spots OUR FAVORITE TAILORS
1
VVON SUGUNNASIL
This bespoke tailor is a hit with Bangkok’s young, upper crust, and Von counts many local celebs as clients. His shop is properly tiny, with space for little more than three people at a time. This means you have to select fabric from swatches rather than full bolts of cloth, but what fabrics they are. His range starts at pure-wool Japanese super 120 and goes up to some really beautiful English Dormeuil wools, a full suit of which will cost you about B40,000. Note that right now the waiting list is around three weeks. Price: Starts at B18,000 for Japanese super 120 wool cloth. The Barkyard BKK, 65 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 086-899-9888. Open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm; Monday by appointment. IG: vvonsugannasil
VVON SUGUNNASIL
2
3
THE TAILOR CHECK-LIST
PINKY TAILOR
On the surface, this family-run business looks the same as countless other tailors lining the area from Phloen Chit to Asok—fading pictures of out-of-date styles, awkwardly posed mannequins and row upon row of fabric, most of which you’d never pick. But this small shop is one of the few places that is absolutely reliable, and Pinky has a devoted clientele that includes fashion editors and designers. We like to get style tips from the son, Win. Price: Starts at B13,000 for pure wool. You can haggle a little, especially for bulk purchases.
Observe these rules before visiting any of Bangkok’s tailors.
Mahatun Plaza Arcade, 888/40 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-253-6328. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm. BTS Phloen Chit.www.pinkytailor.com
4
TAILOR ON TEN
The most elegant-looking tailor shop in Bangkok is set in an old house right at the end of Sukhumvit Soi 8. Unlike many shops that just act as a front and send all orders to the same factory, this one does all production on-site, and the British-Canadian owner will happily take you behind the scenes to see the work. Price: Starts at B15,000 for Australian wool. Italian super 110 from B18,000. All the prices are fixed. 93 Sukhumvit Soi 8, 084-877-1543. Open Mon-Sat 9:30am7pm. www.tailoronten.com
NARIN COUTURE
Unlike many suit store owners, Narin Bowonnaowarux actually has formal training, and studied both design and construction at Paris’s Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. He is also one of the very, very few to offer full canvasing (that’s a floating inner lining rather than one fused to the outter fabric). For aficionados, the mark of a good suit. Price: Pure wool starts at B25,000, plus an extra B10,000 if you want a floating canvas.
A good suit takes time Remember that the suit of your dreams is going to take at least two fittings, sometimes more. And be very wary of anywhere offering 24-hour turn-around times. Quality costs money Yes, Bangkok tailors can be dirt cheap, but remember that good fabric still costs money. Expect to pay a minimum of B13,000 (over US$400) for a pure-wool suit. Don’t believe the labels Many bolts of cloth will have a running seam promising the finest Italian wool. Chances are, it’s a polyester-blend made in China. The shops listed opposite can all be trusted to tell you exactly what fabric they’re selling. Speak directly with the tailor Very often, the person who greets you will be a salesman who knows nothing about tailoring and wants to make as much commission as possible. This can be avoided by asking if the person you’re speaking to is actually the tailor, and if not, is he available.
180 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Soi 8-10), 02-251-9237. Open MonSat 10:30am-9:30pm. BTS Nana. www.narin-couture.com TAILOR ON TEN
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ART+ ATTRACTIONS JOYFUL KHAEN, JOYFUL DANCE NEW
The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. Currently, the exhibition space is home to this multi-artist exhibition which explores Northeastern Thailand’s traditional folk music, culture and heritage. Explore a variety of musical and narrative performances, before heading to the adjoining restaurant for some classic Thai cuisine. Through Mar 31. Jim Thompson Art Center, Jim Thompson House, Soi Kasem San 2, Rama 1 Rd. BTS National Stadium
Hot Spots EXHIBITIONS
4
SIAM: THROUGH THE LENS OF JOHN THOMSON 1865-66
Y SPOTLIGHT
The photography exhibition looks at Thailand during the era of King Rama IV (1851-1868) through images taken by Scottish photographer John Thomson, one of the earliest Western photographers in the Far East.
Through Feb 28. National Gallery, 4 Chao Fa Rd., 02281-2224. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm GEMS OF HANOI - DAO HAI PHONG
1
GEMS OF HANOI - DAO HAI PHONG
The gallery holds a retrospective on the work of Vietnamese artist Dao Hai Phong, whose work focuses on colorful, impressionist scenes of rural Vietnamese life. Vernissage on Jan 17 at 5pm. Jan 17-Feb 14. Thavibu Gallery, Room 433, 4/F, JTC Jewelry Trade Center, 919/1 Silom Rd., 02-2665454. Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm
2
LOTUS DISCO
For his new solo exhibition, Maitree Siriboon fills up the white walls of this minimalist art space with mosaic tile-covered “disco balls” produced during a residency at Thaillywood art studio in Chonburi.
Through Jan 18. Whitespace Gallery, 4/F, 1 Sala Daeng Soi 1/7-9, 02-235-2500. MRT Lumphini. Open Wed-Sun 12pm-6pm.
3
SIAM
5
MYTHICAL REALITY
For his new exhibition, the hyper-realist Thai artist Wittawat Tongkeaw rearranges everyday objects to create 13 pieces intended to question reality. (See our guide to the area on page 22) Through Jan 18. Subhashok the Art Centre (S.A.C.), 160 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-0299. Open Tue-Sun 10am6pm
ON THE WAY
Celebrated artist Somboon Hormtienthong returns with his latest exhibition, in which he records the places he’s visited on his motorbike over the past two years.
Through Jan 31. Numthong Gallery 72/3 Phahon Yothin 7 Soi 5 (Ari), 02-617-2794. BTS Ari. Open MonSat 11am-6pm
Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA)
This 18,000-sq-meter, five-story building in the North of Bangkok is Thailand’s biggest private museum and first significant permanent modern art collection open to the public. The works are nearly all post 1970s, and mostly post 1990s even, with plenty of realism and surrealism depicting rural life, religious Buddhist scenes or mythological motifs from the Ramayana. The highlight is the fourth floor’s four rooms dedicated to the late Thawan Duchanee, Thailand’s most renowned contemporary painter. Bejajinda Building, Wiphawadi-Rangsit Rd., 02-9531111. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm
MYTHICAL REALITY
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PROPERTY NEW
Y
THE DECK
Packed beaches, non-stop nightlife and the best shopping on Phuket— Patong is where Phuket’s party crowd heads. Buy into this tourist magnet with this new property from trusted developer Sansiri. Units range from studios to two-beds, each with its own private sun deck. There’s a rooftop infinity pool, plus a huge ground-level pool and terrace. While the property isn’t right on the beach, Sansiri is promising sea views. Prices start at B4.6 million. Call 1685, email info@sansiri.com or visit sansiri.com
Hot Spots
1
SEASIDE AND COUNTRYSIDE CONDOS
THE RIVIERA JOMTIEN
Designed by American architecture firm KTGY, this lavishly designed, East-European-esque condominium is definitely an appealing choice for those who want a luxurious retreat by the sea. Rooms come in three types: studio, onebedroom and two-bedroom. Studios (22.7-32.2 sq meters) start at B2.4 million, whereas one (34.547.8 sq meters) and two (74.7-104.5 sq meters) bedroom condos start at B3.3 and B8 million respectively. Keep in mind that the condo isn’t beachside, requiring you to walk another 400m to reach Jomtien beach. Expected completion date: 2018 092-839-9078. www.therivierajomtien.com
2
BAAN SAN KRAAM
Located by the beach and surrounded by five-star hotels, this nautical-styled condo from Sansiri offers 52-154-sq-meter rooms starting at a little over B6 million. The condo’s highlight is definitely the pool, which is integrated organically into the architecture, creating a very photogenic common area between buildings. The project is complete and ready to move in. 1685, www.sansiri.com/condominium/ baansankraam_huahin
3
PHUPHATARA KHAO YAI
Located by a lake on the outskirts of the lush Khao Yai national park, this condo/ resort gives you the best of both worlds, offering both luxury and adventure for the whole family. Kids can go canoeing in the picturesque lake while adults can enjoy a glass of fine wine in the open-air gardens. Condos start at B3.5 million, and range in size from 59-129 sq meters.
Y SPOTLIGHT
Expected completion date: Q4 2014 088-022-7234. www.phuphatara.com/khaoyai
4
Q SEASIDE
Rooms start at B6 million (44-147 sq meters) in this elegantly designed seaside condo. The walkway in between the two low-rise buildings makes up the pool and garden area, and invokes a distinctly Italian feel. The condo is also conveniently located close to both Hua Hin and the airport, which puts it in a very good position for anyone who wants to have a quick getaway.
Expected completion date: Q3 2016 1388. www.qh.co.th
5
AKAS KHAO YAI
Offering beautiful views of Khao Yai’s mountainous geography, interested buyers can own a unit in this condo for the starting price of B4 million. Units come in the form of both conventional condo rooms and individual villas, ranging in space from 48-410 sq meters. Nearby attractions include Farm Chokchai, Bonanza Khao Yai, Khao Yai National Park and Palio Khao Yai. Expected completion date: 2016 091-742-3636, www.akaskhaoyai.com
Noble Ploenchit
With an expected completion date of January 2017, this high-rise condo by the Noble property group is a rare new residential development for one of Bangkok’s best shopping and dining neighborhoods (see Exploring, page 18). At 51 stories, the sleek minimalist tower is the tallest building in the area, situated in four rai (6,400 sq meters) of private gardens. Units range from 40-sq-meter studios to grand 245-sq-meter duplexes. The average price is B220,000 per sq meter. Sales office at 16/F, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 02-2519955. www.noblehome.com
BAAN SAN KRAAM
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GUIDE
NAVIGATE
Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ
Phahon Yothin ¾ËÅâ¸Թ
Chatuchak Park Êǹ¨µØ¨Ñ¡Ã
Chao Phraya River áÁ‹¹้Ó਌ҾÃÐÂÒ
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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND
36 W H E R E T H A I L AND I J A NUA RY 2 0 1 5
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GUIDE
NAVIGATE
Y
Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK
TUK-TUKS
BANKING HOURS
The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en
Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.
Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.
TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The three main apps are Easy Taxi (www.easytaxi.com/th), Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok). All of these are in English language and charge a fee on top of the meter price.
ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.
VAT REFUNDS Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.
SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130. The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.
ATMS
TUK-TUKS
CANAL BOATS While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (klong) still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.
EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.
ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 JANUARY 2015 I W HER E THA ILA N D 37
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Y
21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok
1
!1
5
!0
!3
!8
1 Eating the inventive, five-course 7 Dining on the Chao Phraya River !2 Getting a perfectly cut suit at !7 Relaxing at the National Gallery for tasting menu at Le Du, one of our favorite kitchens in town. See page 6.
in a beautifully restored rice barge with the Manohra river cruise. See page 25.
2 Shopping for the best of Thai
!3 Drinking great beer by the river 8 Learning to make authentic Thai at HOBS’ The Riverfeast, one of !8 Trying the sophisticated Thai
design and handicrafts from the country’s top designers. See page 10.
3 Drinking in the cityscape from the al fresco bar of Octave on top of the Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit Hotel. See page 28.
dishes with one of the country’s top chefs at Blue Elephant cooking school and restaurant. See page 25.
Pinky Tailor, the top pick of welldressed locals. See page 33.
the hottest pop-ups in town. See page 24.
5 Stopping by the vintage flea market Made by Legacy for seriously cool shopping opportunities and cheap sangria. See page 4.
small plates and creative cocktails at Hot Rod, a new tapas bar. See page 28.
!4 Checking in to Health Land for 9 Chowing down on the city’s best possibly the most comfortable and !9 Tasting the high life at Vogue street food at the top of Sukhumvit Soi 38. See page 22.
best-priced foot massages around. See page 32.
!0 Partying with the city’s best DJs at the Tokyo-meets-highway motelthemed nightclub Do Not Disturb. See page 28.
!5 Stopping by the Adler Subashok gallery for a look at work by Thailand’s leading contemporary artists. See page 22.
@0 Drinking slow-drip coffee with the city’s coolest hipsters at Casa Lapin. See page 22.
!1 Sampling molecular Indian dishes at one of Asia’s best restaurants, Gaggan. See page 6.
!6 Taking a walk around the Upper streets of Silom to discover great street eats, stylish cocktail bars and Bangkok’s most buzzing gay district. See page 20.
@1 Tucking into a steaming, fatty bowl of tonkotsu ramen at Bankara. See page 22.
4 Sipping super-strong cocktails with a bowl of rich Northern curry at Soul Food Mahanakorn. See page 25.
the Winter Jazz Arts Festival, before taking part in the various music and art workshops. See page 4.
6 Checking out the latest art exhibition at Jim Thompson House, one of the most atmospheric museums in the city. See page 34.
Lounge, where a Michelin-star-winning chef serves the most inventive bar food we’ve ever seen. See page 25.
where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong
UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.
CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg
38 W H E R E T H AILAND I J A NUA RY 2 0 1 5
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Where to find Hotels in Bangkok The AETAS Bangkok All Seasons Bangkok Siam Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11 Amari Watergate Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa Arnoma Baan Noppawong Bally’s Studio Suites Banyan Tree Bangkok Best Western Sukhumvit Cabochon Hotel & Residence Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Centara Grand at Central World Centara Hotels & Resorts Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok Conrad Bangkok Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Dusit Thani Bangkok Emporium Suites Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Four Points by Sheraton Four Seasons Bangkok GLOW Pratunam Grand Hyatt Erawan Grand Mercure Park Avenue Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Holiday Inn Silom Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 Hotel Muse Imperial Queens Park InterContinental Bangkok JW Marriott Bangkok The Landmark Bangkok Le Fenix Sukhumvit LIT Bangkok Luxx Majestic Grande Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit 57 Mercure & Ibis Bangkok Siam
WHERE DISTRIBUTION LIST_January_2015.indd 39
The Metropolitan Bangkok Millennium Hilton Miracle Grand Convention Montien Riverside Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit Sukhumvit Novotel Bangkok Siam Square Novotel Bangkok Impact Oaks Bangkok Sathorn The Okura Prestige Bangkok Park Plaza Sukhumvit Pathumwan Princess The Peninsula Bangkok Phachara Suites Plaza Athénée Bangkok Pullman Bangkok King Power Radisson Blu Plaza Radisson Suites Bangkok Ramada Encore Bangkok Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Riva Surya Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers Siam Kempinski Shangri-La Bangkok Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit The Berkeley Hotel The Continent Hotel Bangkok The Davis Bangkok The Eugenia Hotel & Spa The Siam Siam @ Siam Design Hotel & Spa Sivatel Bangkok Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit Sofitel So Bangkok The St. Regis Bangkok The Sukhothai Bangkok Swissotel Le Concorde Swissotel Nai Lert Park VIE Hotel Bangkok ViVa Garden W Hotel Bangkok The Westin Grande Sukhumvit
where Thailand
Hotels in Other Provinces
Shopping Malls
Anantara Rasananda Koh Phangan Villa Resort & Spa Chandara Resort Conrad Koh Samui Dara Samui Beach Resort & Spa Villa Dusit D2 Baraquda Pattaya InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort & Spa JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa Le Méridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa Renaissance Koh Samui Resort & Spa Renaissance Phuket Resort & Spa Santiburi Resort Sheraton Krabi Shangri-La Chiang Mai Sheraton HuaHin Resort & Spa Tamarind Village Chiang Mai
CentralWorld The Emporium Department Complex Peninsula Plaza The River City Shopping Complex
Serviced Apartments Adelphi Service Apartments Adelphi Suites Bangkok Ascott Sathorn Bangkok Asoke Residence Sukhumvit Cape House Serviced Apartments Courtyard Marriott Grand Mercure Bangkok Asoke Residence Marriott Executive Apartments Sathorn Vista Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park Mayfair Bangkok Marriott Executive Apartment Natural Ville Executive Residences, Bangkok Oakwood Residence Sukhumvit 24 Oriental Residence Bangkok Somerset Lakeview Sukkhumvit 16 The River Condominium
Others Uber Black limousines TAT Tourist Information Counter at Suvarnabhumi Airport (arrivals) Chao Phraya Express Boats Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) Blue Elephant Restaurant Devarana Spa Dean & Deluca Elemis Spa at The St. Regis Bangkok The Kiwi Bangkok Sports Pub & Grill The Australian Pub & BBQ Yunomori Onsen & Spa Pizza Romana Pala La Grande Perle Kuppadeli Kalpapruek Jim Thompson Restaurant Viva & Aviv
Y Where reaches over 100,000 visitors each month. For sales enquiries, contact where@asia-city.co.th or call 02-624-9638.
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