Where® Thailand October 2014 resize by Where Thailand

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OCTOBER 2014 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO 速

速

FRESH FLAVORS

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The chefs shaking up the Thai dining scene

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CONTENTS where

l THAILAND l OCTOBER 2014

The Guide BANGKOK 24 DINING

Where to find delicious dim sum and the best restaurants serving authentic Northern Thai food.

32 ARTS+ATTRACTIONS See Asia's most creative young artistic talent at a new Silom gallery, and discover the best art spaces for a stiff drink.

THAI NOUVEAU

The chefs driving Bangkok's food renaissance

26 NIGHTLIFE Party with Bangkok's cool kids at a new Ekkamai club, and view the city from on high at our favorite rooftop venues.

FEATURES

12 WHY WE LOVE SIAM SQUARE Top things to eat, see and do in Bangkok's shopping hub, including a guide on the hottest new Thai boutiques.

30 HEALTH+WELLNESS Top treatments using organic products, and exotic spas set in beautiful houses.

AROUND THAILAND 14 DINING EXPEDITION

31 SHOPS+SERVICES

The best restaurants in Hua Hin, the lovely beach resort just 2.5 hours from Bangkok.

An elegant Thai shop offering Eastern-influenced candles, diffusers and fragrances, and a shopping guide for vintage items.

16 NEWS Buffalo racing, fire-breathing dragons and new resorts from Khao Yai to the Gulf of Siam.

33 NAVIGATE Top tips on getting around.

EXPLORING 19 UPPER SILOM A guide to Bangkok's most happening district, home to the city's coolest galleries, bars and restaurants.

ALSO INSIDE

21 RATTANAOKSIN

16 Managing Editor/Publisher Grégoire Glachant

Sales Manager Sherry Maturose Kato

Editor Wachiraporn Janrut

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

General Manager Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapon

Marketing Manager Thasanee Sethi Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant On the Cover Nahm (see page 8) by Grégoire Glachant

Contributors Gail Piyanan

HOT DATES

33 21 THINGS WE LOVE

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com

MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

Exploring Bangkok's Old Town, from historic attractions like Wat Pho and the Emerald Buddha to riverside dining and rooftop cocktail spots.

www.wherethailand.com

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

@where_thailand

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HOT DATES

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OCT 30

MARIAH CAREY

Pop fans, take note. Mariah Carey will take to the stage at Bangkok’s Impact Arena as part of her The Elusive Chanteuse Show across Asia. Tickets are priced between B1,500-10,000, available on www.thaiticketmajor.com. Can’t make the Bangkok date? Check out www.mariahcarey. com/tour for her full Asian tour roster, which includes a Tokyo concert on Oct 4, Kuala Lumpur on Oct 22, Singapore on Oct 24 and Manila on Oct 28. Impact Arena, 02-833-4455. Tickets available at www.thaiticketmajor.com

THROUGH NOV 16

OCT 4-10

OCT 22-23

LET’S DANCE

PICTURE PERFECT

BEST IN SHOW

HOME-SPUN GIFTS

Bangkok’s 16th International Festival of Dance & Music takes place at the Thailand Cultural Centre, showcasing dance companies from all over the world. A highlight of Bangkok’s cultural calendar, this year includes performances by the Black Diamond Contemporary Ballet on Oct 9, Zubin Mehta and Israel Philharmonic Orchestra on Oct 20, and One Gin Stuttgart Ballet on Oct 25-26. Tickets are available at www.thaiticketmajor.com.

Prof. Dr Apinan Poshyananda curates Thai Charisma: Heritage + Creative Power on the 8th floor of Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, an exhibition of contemporary artworks and traditional crafts on loan from the department of Fine Arts. Many of the pieces on display are being shown to the public for the first time, with work chosen to draw attention to the anonymity of certain artists against the high profiles of venerated masters such as Jakkai Siributr, Rirkrit Tiravanija and the recently deceased Thawan Duchanee.

Located just 1.5 hour’s drive from Bangkok, Chonburi province’s annual Buffalo Racing Festival will see jockey’s herding these powerful beasts to race one another in front of the local Town Hall. If speeding buffaloes aren’t your thing, the event will also feature contests to find the healthiest buffalo in the heard and best buffalo decorations. A food fair will provide some non-buffalo-related entertainment.

SIPPAKORN YAMKASIKORN

THROUGH OCT 26

Thailand Cultural Centre, 02-2470028. MRT Thailand Cultural Centre. www.bangkokfestivals.com

Chonburi Municipal Office, 038-283449. www.tourismthailand.org

The sprawling Bangkok International Gift Fair and International Houseware Fair 2014 provides the ideal opportunity to find unique Thai-made gifts to take home. Now in its 38th year, the event features over 500 exhibitors, and can always be counted upon for interesting items by up-and-coming designers, from handicrafts and homeware to children’s toys. Enquire with your hotel concierge about shuttle bus services. BITEC Bangna, 02-507-8361. 10am9pm. BTS Bangna. www.bigandbih com

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, 02214-6639. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. BTS National Stadium. www.bacc.or.th

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FEATURE

MEET THE COOK

Chefs who dare let their personality shine through Thai cuisine are finally being recognized. By Gregoire Glachant

ahm, the Thai restaurant run by Australian chef David Thompson, placed 13th at this year’s San Pellegrino World’s Best Restaurants awards, the highest entry for a restaurant in Asia and the first time an Asian restaurant placed in the top 20. This came hot on the heels of Nahm scooping the top spot as best restaurant at Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards back in February. A few years ago, Bangkok didn’t really have any fine-dining restaurant to make the city proud. Local foodies knew to get their Thai food on the street or in decrepit shophouses. Upscale Thai restaurants were nearly all in hotels, where they served tourists. That all changed with the opening of Bo.lan in 2011, headed by a Thai-Australian couple who had worked for David Thompson in London. Bo.lan’s Thai chef, Duongporn ‘Bo’ Songvisava, would go on to be named best female chef in Asia by Veuve Clicquot in 2013. Then came the aforementioned Nahm, soon followed by the world’s only other oneMichelin-star restaurant doing Thai food, Copenhagen’s Kiin Kiin, which opened Sra Bua at Bangkok’s Kempinski Hotel. Once local celebrity chef Ian Kittichai opened Issaya, serving authentic Thai food with slight tweaks in a gorgeous colonial-style villa, it became clear that locals were finally willing to pay fine-dining prices for excellent Thai food in beautiful surroundings. Recently, Bo.lan moved to a new location, an elegant old house. Nahm is still going strong. And Sra Bua’s original chef just moved to the Dusit Thani’s Benjarong. Not to mention new young chefs who are daring to do their own brand of Thai food—such as at Paste and Le Du, where the traditional flavors also pack some very personal touches. Here are our top spots.

SRA BUA

BENJARONG

Sra Bua is the Bangkokian sister of Copenhagen’s Kiin Kiin, which, after David Thompson’s London branch of Nahm, became only the second restaurant in the world to receive a Michelin star for cooking Thai food. The food is modern gastronomy, though, making it very different from traditional Thai cooking (and Nahm’s). A curry might come with the texture and temperature of ice cream, and bites of lobster can be locked into gelatinous pearls that melt in your mouth with a sip of tom yam broth. The deconstructed tom ka with pickled mushrooms is a must; despite a mouthfeel that’s completely disconcerting (the coconut is turned into what looks like cottage cheese but feels like ice cream on the tongue), it powerfully evokes a darn good tom ka. The décor, with its spacious booths, soaring ceilings, Thai pavilion and tiered pools of lotus flowers, is quite the sight, too.

Having left Siam Kempinski’s Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin, Danish chef Morten Nielsen takes his expertise in molecular cuisine to Dusit Thani as the hotel’s new Thai cuisine group chef. His first move has been to transform the menu at Dusit Thani Bangkok’s traditional royal Thai restaurant, Benjarong, into something more inventive. But do not expect concoctions as wild as those found at Sra Bua. Chef Morten’s menu retains comforting and traditional Thai flavor profiles but prepares them using European slow-cooking methods, presented with considerate contemporary touches. Set in the Dusit Thani’s wonderful mix of 60s modernist architecture and traditional Thai décor, Benjarong is the perfect compromise between contemporary Thai cuisine and authenticity.

1/F, Siam Kempinski, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10:30pm. BTS Siam

946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000. Open daily 6-10pm. MRT Silom, BTS Sala Daeng

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EXPERT PICKS

Where local chefs eat Thai food

BENJARONG

Chef Arisara Chongphanitkul of Issaya La Patisserie

Chef Thitid Tassanakajohn of Le Du

Chef Samita Dhanasobhon of Chikalicious

Issaya La Patisserie, 5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 094724-5447. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 10am-10pm

Le Du, 339/3 Silom Soi 7, 081-5626464. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open MonFri 11:30am-2:30pm and 6pm-11pm; Saturday 6pm-11pm

Chikalicious, 5/F Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5892. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Sun-Thu 10am10pm; Fri-Sat 10am-midnight

Kanom Wan Talad Plu

Niyom

Nai Sai

A traditional street-style Thai dessert venue that is always so busy. It’s totally delicious. I always go for the foi thong (sweetened egg floss) and thong yod (sweetened egg drops). They are not as sweet as other places’— more suitable to my palate—and the texture is very nice.

My favorite late-night meal. This khao tom restaurant offers the best of the best moo krob (crispy pork) in town. It’s usually the first item that runs out. But no worries, the moo sub pla kem nueng (baked pork with salted fish) is also fantastic. All pad pak (stir-fried vegetables) are also nicely cooked. A very fulfilling meal indeed.

This shophouse is known for the khao moo krob (rice served with deep-fried pork). This place has the best Thai-style crispy pork. Their pork has thick meat, less fat and a very crispy skin.

02-466-9332. Open daily 2-7pm BTS Talat Phlu.

1059 Phracha Chuen Rd. (between sois 33-34), 02-585-5630. Open daily 6:30am-3pm

Silom Plaza, Silom Rd., 02-234-0149, 02-234-0156. Open daily 5pm-4am

PASTE

PASTE Chef Jason Bailey takes inspiration from traditional Thai cuisine, but also makes the most of modern techniques, artful presentation and some personal twists. And what produce! Every mint leaf, every pickled green chili, is bursting with flavor. You can tell everything is homemade and, where possible, from fresh, locallysourced ingredients. The atmosphere is intimate and suitably plush, the renovated shophouse dominated by a deep red sofa that runs along one side. Paste makes for an uplifting experience, and proves a chef can let his personality shine through his food without bastardizing it. 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49 (opposite Samitivej Hospital), 02-392-4313. Open Wed-Sun noon-2:30pm; Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight

Chef Wilfried Hocquet of Maverick

Chef Abel Coutino Castilla of El Mariachi Taqueria

Chef Baimohn Tanataveetram of Rock Restaurant & Bar

Maverick, G/F, Ocean Tower II, Sukhumvit Soi 21 (soi 3), 02-6652772. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight BTS Asok.

El Mariachi Taqueria, 101 (99/23), Srinakarin 61, 02-108-2066. Open Mon-Fri 3pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 10am10pm. BTS Udomsuk.

Rock Restuarant & Bar, 7/1 Soi Chumnanaaksorn, Phahon Yothin 9, 082688-8200. Open Mon-Sat 5:30pmmidnight. BTS Ari.

Maewaree

Chanthana

Khao Tom Yaak Plaeng Nam

For mango sticky rice lovers, this is the best place in town. The sticky rice is awesome, perfectly cooked, and the mangoes are always juicy and sweet while the coconut milk is delicious. It’s a pleasure to stop by this shop with all the mango out front and customers waiting by.

Chanthana is an old restaurant that serves excellent Thai food. Every dish is carefully prepared, and all of them are delicious. Their tom yam gung has the right level of saltiness and sourness for me. The deep-fried snapper with dipping sauce and green mango salad is also really mouth-watering. The restaurant itself has quite a simple set-up, but it’s their food that has it all. If you don’t make a reservation, you may end up waiting a long time.

This is a famous spot for a latenight meal. My favorite is the tom kiam chai pla chon (soup with salted cabbage and catfish). The steaming, deeply flavored broth is the result of a long process of cooking. The oil that comes from the catfish blends so well with the sourness of the vegetables, while the chili is aromatic—making for one addictive bowl.

1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02392-4304. Open 24/7, sticky rice only available 5am-11pm BTS Thong Lo.

Plaeng Nam Rd., 02-622-4903. Open daily 24 hours

852-854 Pracha Uthit Rd., 02-2744609, 02-274-4156. Open Tue-Sun 10:30am-9:30pm

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LE DU

NAHM

BO.LAN

ISSAYA

NAHM

BO.LAN

LE DU

We are big admirers of David Thompson and what he is doing (and has done) for Thai cuisine. The set menu starts with delicious canapés (the skewered Southern grilled mussels were divine) before one nam prik (relish), one salad (yam), one soup (per person), one curry (gaeng) and one stir fry (pad) from a mouth-watering list of options. The dishes often include rare ingredients and almost always strike a perfect balance between sweet, heat and sourness—all that’s great about Thai cuisine.

Set in an exquisitely decorated home that’s all wood, antiques, and whicker, Bo.lan’s new address is finally worthy of the extraordinary food served here. There’s an à la carte menu, but the best option is to go with the Bo.lan Balance set, which changes every two months and makes for a colorful and intense experience. Portions are generous but presentation is extremely delicate. Flavors are uncompromisingly (but not overpoweringly) hot. Each bite lets the complexities of the Thai spices and herbs unfold in your mouth.

Le Du is powered by a young Thai chef, Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn, who holds a degree from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) and some experience in Michelin-starred restaurants including Eleven Madison Park, The Modern and Jean-Georges. Mixing modern techniques with bold Asian flavors, his food is both delicious and beautiful, with delicate, artful presentation. Add a stellar wine list and Le Du is currently one of the most exciting kitchens in town.

G/F, Metropolitan, Sathorn Tai, 02-625-3333. Opening daily 7-11pm; Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm

24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2962. Open Thu-Sun 122:30pm; Tue-Sun 6-10:30pm. BTS Thong Lo

TRUE CLASSICS

Thai restaurants in beautiful houses

Ruen Urai

Blue Elephant

Chon

The name of this century-old house in Surawong’s increasingly dense urban fabric stands for “House of Gold,” a reference to the golden teak from which it’s built. The food is equally aristocratic, with royal Thai cuisine touches in the form of carved vegetables and delicate bitesized portions.

The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonialstyle mansion, complete with a classic interior, where chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine.

Set in a beautiful Thai teak house overlooking the Chao Phraya River, Chon (“spoon” in Thai) has made a name for itself thanks to its authentic Thai food and gorgeous antiques. To get there, book ahead and let their river boat take you on a little cruise from Central Pier.

The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268. Open daily noon-11pm

233 South Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30– 10:30pm. BTS Surasak

399/3 Silom Soi 7. 092-919-9969. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm; Mon-Sat 6-11pm

ISSAYA The décor is bright and bold, large floral wallpaper and vivid blue walls somehow combining perfectly with the heritage building. The food manages the same high-wire act of being resolutely traditional and thought-provoking in equal measure. Dishes are based on traditional Thai favorites, but given twists, notably through the artful presentation and use of high-quality ingredients. Desserts, Chef Ian Kittichai’s favorite part of the meal, are equally exciting, such as the delicious kanom Thai (petits fours) complete with a touch of smoky theater. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chuaphloeng Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-midnight

The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., Dusit, 02-206-6999. Open daily 6am-11pm. www.thesiamhotel.com

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the guide

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FEATURE

SIAM SQUARE

HARNN HERITAGE SPA Run by Thailand’s leading producer of natural skincare products, Harnn Heritage Spa is situated on the fourth floor of Siam Paragon and offers a variety of treatments, from a 60-minute uplifting facial (skin exfoliation, facial massage, lymphatic drainage massage, facial mask and hand and foot massage, B2,200) to the 180-minute Journey of Siamese Wisdom (full-body massage, compress massage, water lily purifying facial treatment and a foot massage, B5,900). We recommend the 120-minute Harnn Lifestyle Design (B3,900), which allows you to create your own spa experience by combining two treatments. Check out Harnn’s extensive line of products to find great Thai-made gifts to take back home. 1 4/F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-

With the opening of the new Siam Square One mall, we explore the best that Bangkok’s central shopping district has to offer. By Wachiraporn Janrut and Gail Piyanan

9715. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Siam. harnn.com

4635. BTS Siam. www.majorcineplex.com

HARNN HERITAGE SPA

SIAM OCEAN WORLD

SIAM PARAGON

SIAM SQUARE SOI 8

SIAM SQUARE SOI 9

SIAM SQUARE SOI 5

SIAM SQUARE SOI 4

DIGITAL GATE WAY

SIAM SQUARE SOI 7 SIAM SQUARE SOI 10

PHAYATHAI RD.

SIAM SQUARE SOI 3

SIAM SQUARE SOI 2

SIAM SQUARE SOI 1

MBK

CENTRAL WORLD

BTS SIAM STATION

BTS NATION STADIUM STATION

SIAM SQUARE SOI 11

RAMA1 RD.

SIAM SQUARE ONE

4 5

SIAM SQUARE SOI 6

BACC

SIAM CENTER

WAT PATUMWANARAM

PETCHBURI RD.

SIAM DISCOVERY

www.

BTS RAYCHADAMRI STATION

02-687-2000. Open daily 10am-9pm (last ticket issued at 8pm). www.siamoceanworld.co.th

One of the most prestigious cinemas in Bangkok, it has spacious sofa beds that let guests lie down amid pillows and blankets while watching a movie with a glass of wine. The ticket price includes food, too, from ham and crispy bacon garlic chili spaghetti and savory crepes to desserts like carrot pineapple cream cheese and berry panna cotta. You can also order additional cocktails, beer and wine. Tickets are B3,000 per couple. 1 5/F Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-129-

RATCHADAMRI RD.

Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium is home to more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. Time your visit for the shark feeding at 1pm and 4pm, or penguin feeding at 12:30pm and 4:30pm. Other happenings include diving with sharks and back-of-house visits. Located in the basement levels of Siam Paragon, parents can squeeze in some high-end retail therapy, too. 1 B1-B2/F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd.,

ENIGMA, PARAGON CINEPLEX

HENRI DUNANT RD.

SIAM OCEAN WORLD

SIAM SQUARE ONE MALL

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BANGKOK ART AND CULTURE CENTRE (BACC)

BACC

Opposite MBK shopping mall, this contemporary nine-story building is Bangkok’s premier contemporary arts venue, featuring regular art exhibitions from recognized Thai and international artists, as well as the work of emerging talents. The gallery is also home to various boutiques selling handicrafts, art materials and art-related books. After viewing the exhibitions, drop by Gallery Café Drip on the ground floor for coffee made with Northern Thai coffee beans. 2 939 Rama I Rd., 02-214-6630-1. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. BTS National Stadium. www.bacc.or.th

SOM TAM NUA Always fenced by a long queue of cool young Bangkok locals, this restaurant serves quality Isaan (Northern Thai) food in a casual setting. The menu covers various style of of somtam (papaya salad), as well as other Northeastern favorites like tom sab (spicy pork soup), grilled pork neck, crispy pork skin and fried rice noodles with sweet pork. But the crowds come for Som Tam Nua’s fried chicken— beautifully marinated and with perfectly crispy skin—served alongside somtam thai mua—papaya salad mixed with crispy pork, rice noodle and Northern sausage. 5 Siam Square Soi 5, Rama 1 Rd., 02-251-4880. Open daily 11am-9.30pm. BTS Siam. tinyurl.com/l9vlf63

BACC

SHOP FOR THAI DESIGN From Siam Center to the brand new Siam Square One, there have never been so many interesting young Thai brands to choose from.

Lalalove London Former Dazed & Confused stylist Linda Charoenlab has opened the first Bangkok store of her fashion label Lalalove London, which first made its name at Topshop branches in London. Innovative, edgy prints are emblazoned on sweatshirts, dresses and Tshirts in vibrant colors. This is clothing to make a statement. 3 3/F, Siam Center, 979 Rama 1 Rd. Open Daily 10am-9pm. BTS Siam. www.lalalovelondon.com

Labrador This small boutique offers high-quality, minimally designed leather bags and other unisex accessories. The warm and inviting atmosphere of the shop reflects the brown leather products like wallets, personal organizers and notebooks. 4 3/F, Siam Square One, Rama 1 Rd., 02-9513488. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam. www. labradorfactory.net

Poem Designer Chavanon Caisiri makes classically styled formal- and everyday-wear for both women and men’s readyto-wear items. Women’s include evening gowns and sharp yet feminine suits, while the men’s range focuses on suits in neutral color tones. Appointment required for tailor-made items. 4 3/F, Siam Square One, Rama 1 Rd., 02-115-1449. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam. www. poembangkok.com

Fifth Season Thai street-style celebrity Ascha Charoenrasameekiat sells high-heels, leather accessories, ripped dungarees and other denim items for women from this small boutique made famous by Instagram. Various photo frames and a comfy long sofa give the shop a lived-in, welcoming feel that always makes browsing through the clothes racks a pleasure. 4 3/F, Siam Square One, Rama

77TH Atelier 77th provides unique bags and jewelry inspired by classic marble sculptures interpreted in a very modern way. The Atelier collection takes inspiration from Roman history, with highlights including the Blue & White Vase Earrings, Porcelain Plates Necklace, Virgin Cross Chain, Gothic Frame Brooch and Midnight Mirror Couture Ring. 3 3/F, 321/1 Siam Center, Rama

1 Rd. Open daily 11am-10pm. BTS Siam. instagram.com/fifth_season

1 Rd., 085-666-4191. Open Daily 10am-9pm. Siam BTS. www.seventy-seventh.blogspot.com

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BAN KHUN MAE

GEEK OUT There are two places to stock up on electronics in the Siam area— on top of the many shops inside the big malls

MBK

7 MBK

8 Digital Gateway

This vast mall is notorious for its gray market electronic imports and outright fakes. If you want a pair of knockoff Dr. Dre Beats headphones or a Chinese-designed smartphone, this is the place to go. You can also find souvenirs and jewelry in there. Buyer beware.

This place is packed to the rafters with video games, cameras and phones. The merchandise is completely legit, but visitors should compared prices carefully before buying. Thailand is not particularly cheap for electronics. See page 33 for details on claiming back the VAT at the airport.

DIGITAL GATEWAY

Set in a lovely Thai-style wooden house, Baan Khun Mae (‘Mom’s House’ in Thai) is a classic restaurant oozing Thainess through its sculpted wooden panels, its white and blue crockery, its classical musician (daily at 7pm) and its staff in traditional outfits. Chuchee kung mae nam (plump river shrimps in red curry), gaeng pet ped yang (roast duck in red curry) and kai pad med mamuang (chicken fried with cashew nuts) are all just as authentic. There’s also good selection of Thai sausages including sai oua (northern-style pork sausage), well-complemented by boiled vegetables and nam prik ong (Northern-style green chili paste). 6 458/6-9, Siam Square Soi 8, Rama 1 Rd., 02-2501952. Open daily 10am-11pm. BTS Siam. www.bankhunmae.com

HONMONO SUSHI Honmono is Bangkok’s sushi mecca, selling a wide range of high-quality fish flown in weekly from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo. The sashimi platter is a must-try, featuring two types of tuna, salmon, octopus, surf clam, hamachi and more. It’s expensive, but the quality is great with enormous pieces of fish. Other recommended dishes include grilled razor clam in soy sauce, dragon roll (barbecued eel, avocado, cucumber and cream cheese topped with fish roe in anago sauce) and taraba kani (Hokkaido crab sushi). 1 4/F Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-610

BAN KHUN MAE

9240. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam HONMONO SUSHI

KRUA DOK MAI KAO This restaurant makes Thai and Thai-style European dishes using fresh ingredients in a simple and inviting atmosphere. Signature dishes include roti with chicken in green curry, crispy rice noodle with pork and kale soaked in gravy, and spaghetti with grilled fresh prawn. The restaurant’s strongest suit is without doubt its bakery, especially the sweet items like tiramisu cake and crepe cake. Located on the fourth floor of Siam Square One, it’s easy to recognize from the large logo handwritten by the princess of Thailand, Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn. 4 4/F, Siam Square One, Rama 1 Rd., 02-252-2646-7. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam

HONMONO SUSHI

KRUA DOK MAI KAO

Y SPOTLIGHT

Exotique Thai The exotic Thai souvenir bazaar on Siam Paragon’s fourth floor features a variety of Thai-made products and handicrafts. Here you’ll find some of the top brands for Thai spa products such as Panpuri (www.panpuri. com), which has both skincare and home fragrance lines, Thann (www.thann.info), known for its aromatherapy-focused facial serums, lip balms and herbal teas, and Erb (www.erbasia.com), which offers high-quality skincare products made from local ingredients. Cute packaging and a range of price points makes it a great place to shop for gifts. 1 4/F, Siam Paragon, 02-610-9715/6. Open daily 10am8pm. BTS Siam. www.harnn.com

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LOOK OUT FOR A COPY OF

the guide where

Thailand

Available at leading hotels throughout Thailand.

The Essential Annual Guide to the Kingdom. For more information please contact

maketing@asia-city.co.th or call 02-624-9645

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where

AROUND THAILAND PIZZA

NAI LERT PARK HUA HIN

BEYOND THE SEA

Earlier this year Hua Hin welcomed this lovely beachfront Italian eatery Nai Lert Park Hua Hin. The restaurant is set in a refurbished 80-year-old house with an all-white vintage theme, owned by Chef Duangpatra Bodiratnangkura, who spent almost 10 years in Italy. On the menu are pizzas and calzone (B450 each) plus the recommended Nai Lert Aubergine (deep-fried aubergine topped with tomato sauce, cheese and crispy bacon, B350) and chicken liver paté (B180). For dessert, try the homemade coconut ice cream (B150) and tiramisu (B150).

Hua Hin is not just about Thai-style seafood dishes. The royal beach resort has plenty of exciting international restaurants, too. By Wachiraporn Janrut

Near Hua Hin Soi 83/41, before Khao Takiab, 032-511955. Open Thu-Sun, 10am-8pm

INTER SEAFRONT

OCEANSIDE BEACH CLUB & RESTAURANT

Set on a lovely spot of beachfront at Putahracsa resort, Oceanside is a stylish beach club and restaurant decked out with white sofa beds and colorful pillows. Chef Tanu Panthong specializes in Thai and international seafood dishes like crabmeat risotto (B380), deep-fried tiger prawns in tamarind sauce (B400) and seared scallops served with braised apple and flying fish roe (B300). There’s also a barbecue brunch deal on Sundays from noon-3pm at B1,300 per person, which includes free-flow wine and soft drinks. Putahracsa Hua Hin, 22/65 Nahb Kaehat Rd., 032-531470. Open Sun-Thu 11am-11pm; Fri-Sat 11am-12am. www.oceansidebeachclub.com

BANGKOK HUA HIN BEACH

BRUNCH BUFFET

HUA HIN

AZURE RESTAURANT

HAGI

FISHING PIER

GULF OF SIAM

WHITE LOTUS SDAM RI

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OCEANSIDE BEACH CLUB & RESTAURANT

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GETTING THERE

HUA HIN 61

HUA HIN 55

HUA HIN 53

HUA HIN 51

NAEBKHEHART RD.

Located 192km from Bangkok, Hua Hin is a 2.5-hour drive from downtown Bangkok. A taxi to Hua Hin is about B1,800 for a single trip. There is a VIP coach service from Suvarnabhumi airport to Hua Hin, with buses leaving every two hours from 7.30am to 7.30pm at B305 per seat. For bookings, visit www.airporthuahinbus.com.

Intercontinental’s beachfront Azure restaurant offers a “Sunday Chill & Grill Chandon Brunch” from 1-4pm, with seven live cooking stations serving up creative food presentation like penne carbonara in a DIY shaker and pad Thai in a takeaway box that you can enjoy in the pool. Don’t worry, there is more extravagant stuff, too: pan-fried foie gras, classic seafood paella, suckling pig, sushi, sashimi and homemade crepes with ice cream. B1,700 per person, including a bottle of Chandon (sparkling white) for two people. Intercontinental Hua Hin Resort, 33/33 Petchkasem Rd., 032-616-999. Open noon-3:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm. www.huahin.intercontinental.com

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THE SALA WINE BAR AND BISTRO

DIM SUM

WHITE LOTUS Situated on the 17th floor of the Hilton Hua Hin, White Lotus is a Chinese restaurant that offers stunning views of Hua Hin bay. Expect an extensive menu of authentic Szechuan and Cantonese dishes. The Peking duck (B1,850) is a must-try. The extensive dim sum menu features over 30 items. Through Nov 30, the restaurant is offering an all-you-can-eat dim sum deal on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays from 11:30am-2:30pm at B580 per person. Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa, 33 Naresdamri Rd., 032538-999. Open 6pm-10:30pm. www.huahin.hilton.com

JAPANESE

HAGI Centrally located on Damnernkasem Road, Hagi serves up a mix of authentic and innovative Japanese dishes in an outdoor setting. Ask for a teppanyaki set and you can enjoy quite a show from the dextrous chef. We recommend the Sukura set (B1,130), which offers scallop, salmon, tiger prawn and sirloin, served with sushi, sashimi, cream soup, roasted mushrooms or fried vegetables, Japanese fried rice and fruit or ice cream. The restaurant also offers a good selection of wines and refreshing drinks like sparkling jelly sake (B320). Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Hua Hin, 1 Damnernkasem Rd., 032-512-021/38. Open 5pm-12am. www.centarahotelsresorts.com

THAI FUSION

THE SALA WINE BAR AND BISTRO Nestled in a dramatic landscape 45km from town, Hua Hin Hills is one of Thailand’s most successful vineyards. Take a guided tour to explore the property and then enjoy food and wine at Sala Wine Bar and Bistro, which offers international and fusion dishes paired with Monsoon Valley wines. Recommended dishes include the grilled KU beef tenderloin with tamarind and sesame foie gras (B1,650) and Cocoa lamb chop kra prao with cranberry syrup and smoked almonds (B450). Tasting sets are also available at B650. The Sala’s views are difficult to beat. Hua Hin Hills Vineyard, 204 Moo 9, Baan Khork Chang Patana Nong Plup, 081-701-0222. Open 10am-6pm. www.huahinhills.com

ITALIAN

LA GRAPPA ITALIAN RESTAURANT-PIZZERIA Chef Andreas Bonifacio owns arguably the very best Italian restaurant in Hua Hin, thanks to his 20 years’ experience in the kitchens of Michelin-starred restaurants across Europe. In fact, he flies in many of his ingredients directly from Italy. Recommended mains include wagyu veal cheek (B880) and fresh egg tagliatelle pasta with porcini mushroom and black summer truffle (B440). The wine list is quite impressive, too. 20/5 Poolsuk Rd., 032-516-510. Open 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-11:30pm. www.lagrappa-ristorante.com

HAGI

Y NEW & NOTED

X2 KUI BURI

Private Escape The stylish X2 Kui Buri, set on a secluded beach 1.5 hour’s drive from Hua Hin, is offering the Bed, Bubbles & Beyond package for bookings before Sep 30 and stays through Oct 31. It includes a night’s stay in a private villa, Champagne breakfast and a choice of daily perks like minibar refreshments, an afternoon wine and tapas set, a 60-minute massage, or a three-hour tour of Prachuap Khiri Khan. Weekday rates are B4,900 per night for a garden villa and B5,900 per night for a pool villa. Weekend rates are B5,900 per night for a garden villa and B6,900 per night for a pool villa. 52 Moo 13, Ao Noi Sub-district, Muang District, Prachuap Khiri Khan, 032-601-412. www.x2lobby.com

Make a Splash Set to open in Hua Hin later this year, Vana Nava Hua Hin Water Jungle is a waterpark set amid lush gardens and featuring numerous rides, attractions, slides and water adventures. The Tropical Jungle zone boasts Thailand’s tallest waterslide, Boomerango, as well as the Abyss, a slide that allows up to six friends to soar from a height of 28 meters. Journey through a landscape of caves, mountains and waterfalls to reach the Wave Pool zone, which features the fast-moving waters of a bodyboard and surf simulator, or the Wild Water zone, where you’ll find the 18-meter Free Fall and the AquaLoop, which reaches speeds of 60km/h. www.vananava.com

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where

AROUND THAILAND THE LATEST OPENINGS AND HAPPENINGS AROUND THE KINGDOM.

KIRIMAYA GOLF RESORT

KHAO YAI

FLOAT ON The beautiful Khao Yai National Park is a three-hour drive from Bangkok. If you get lonely, swing by Khao Yai Floating Market (083-373-0262, www.khaoyaifloatingmarket.com) opened in May in Pak Chong district, 35km from the park. The spacious two-story market set around an artificial lake is divided into five themed zones for a retro and gimmicky effect. On the top floor are a small farm and flower garden, while on the ground floor you can find numerous food stalls, restaurants and souvenir shops. Entry is B100 per person. Open daily 8am-6pm.

THE NEW SHARK Farmed salmon could be the next big crusade for environmental activists. Following in the footsteps of American giants like Target supermarkets, two Thai resorts have just banned the mass-produced fishies: Kirimaya Golf Resort Spa (02-257-0337, www.kirimaya.com) and Muthimaya Forest Pool Villa Resorts (044-426-000, www.muthimaya.com). Bill Marinelli, owner of Bangkok’s Oyster

Bar and an importer of Alaskan wild salmon in Thailand, is behind this push. Farmed salmon has a devastating environmental impact, but also raises health concerns for us humans—the salmons are loaded with polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs) and antibiotics. Alaskan wild salmon, while much more expensive, is also much tastier. By the way, the resorts, which are in Khao Yai, are simply stunning. GULF OF SIAM

BEACH BOX Opened earlier this year, Wendy The Pool (02-966-1800/2, www.wendythepoolresort.com) is a new hotel on the still relatively isolated island of Koh Kood. Located on Khlong Chao Beach, the beachfront boutique is all modernist wooden cubes with tastefully rustic accents, such as Sino-Portuguese-style tiles and whitewashed furniture. The pool access rooms are currently B12,500, while the beachfront villas with their own private pool are B30,000. Koh Kood is 90 minutes by boat from Laem Sok or Dan Kao piers in Trat province, 385km from Bangkok.

KANCHANABURI

MOUNTAIN MAGIC Kanchanaburi’s extravagantly styled Cinque Terre Resort (081-493-3377, www.fb.com/cinqueterreresort) is offering 50 percent off all room bookings through October. Set next to Huai Au Long and surrounded by mountains, the resort’s exterior is modeled after classical Italian architecture, while the rooms are decorated in a flashy and ornate Parisian fashion. The location is five kilometers from Kanchanaburi town, but a free pickup service is offered for guests. Discounted rates start at B1,750. CHIANG MAI

MIND TRIP Pun Pun Farm (Mai Tang, PO Box 5 Chiang Mai. www.punpunthailand.org), a community promoting organic farming and sustainable living, is holding a Iyengar Yoga Retreat from Nov 1-7, over Loy Kratong Fest (booking and contact: bendyles@gmail.com). This trip provides yoga classes by certified teachers, workshops (such as organic gardening, fermentation, vegetarian cooking and seed

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CHILL IN CHIANG MAI

Top coffee shops in the Northern capital

WENDY THE POOL FABB CAFE & BISTRO

NEW FABB Café & Bistro Opened earlier this year, FABB Café & Bistro in Nandakwang Garden Mall is set in a twostory house decorated with roasting machines, bookshelves, a piano and an exhibition of 60 different types of coffee beans. Surrounded by a peaceful garden, the café offers top-quality coffee as well as pasta, salad, pizza and homemade desserts like lemon meringue and cherry cheese cake. 91/11 Moo 5, Sutep, Nandakwang Garden Mall, +66(0)-53329296. Open Tue-Sun 7am-10pm. tinyurl.com/nrwt3jn

Akha Ama Located close to the Wat Phra Singh temple, Akha Ama is a serious coffee venue complete

with an in-vogue industrial interior. The store uses fresh coffee beans produced by the Akha hill tribe community in Mae Suay, Chiang Rai, to whom it gives back all profits. 175/1 Ratchadamnoen Rd., +66(0)86915-8600. Open Mon-Sat 8am-8pm, Sun 8am-10pm. www.akhaama.com

Doppio Ristr8to Located at the opening of Nimmanhaemin Soi 3, Doppio Ristr8to offers impressive coffee thanks to owner Arnon “Tong” Thitiprasert, who won several coffee-making awards during his time living in Sydney. Put in a request for a special pattern in your foam. 15/3 Nimmanhaemin Rd., +66(0)5321-5278. www.ristr8to-coffeechiangmai.com

AKHA AMA PUN PUN FARM

BANG FAI PHAYA NARK FESTIVAL

saving), healthy vegetarian food and comfortable accommodation. B16,000 per person (with a B8,000 deposit upon booking). NONG KHAI

BALLS OF FIRE Situated on the banks of the Mekong River, the charmingly sleepy town of Nong Khai plays host to the annual Bang Fai Phaya Nark Festival (better known as the Naga fireballs) every October. Marking the end of Buddhist Lent, this year’s festival takes place on Oct 8 and will see big crowds gathering to watch hundreds of glowing orbs, said to be produced by a Naga (mythical snake), mysteriously rise up out of the Mekong River and disappear into the full moon sky. The festival also features long-tail boat races and light and sound performances. For more information, call 1672. www.tourismthailand.org

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whereexplore OCTOBER 2014 | BANGKOK

UPPER SILOM Silom Road starts at Lumpini Park and stops just one block short of the Chao Phraya River. The road’s first half is notorious for Soi Patong, a collection of go-go bars and fake watch stalls. But the bottom half has recently gone through a revival, with a host of edgy bars and restaurants joining the area’s long-standing galleries. Shown here: Kathmandu Gallery, see facing page.

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 19 UPPER SILOM

21 RATTANAKOSIN

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EXPLORING

UPPER SILOM Y SPOTLIGHT

!7 Silom

Galleria

Head to floors 4 and 5 of this jewelry emporium for four of Bangkok’s best galleries. 02-630-0979, 919/1 Silom Soi 19.

TANG GALLERY With its two branches in China, Tang is Bangkok’s art scene top dog. Through Oct 4, the gallery is showing “The World III in The Third World”. 02-630-1114, open Tue-Sat 11am7pm

NEW

NAMSAAH BOTTLING TRUST

CVN

The chef at this new venue, set in a 100-year-old house painted pink, is the aclaimed Ian Kittichai. His menu is all about twists on Asian comfort food, like pad Thai with duck and foie gras or salmon tartare wonton tacos. Downstairs specializes in cocktails, with a long list of recognizable classics given local twists, while upstairs offers more formal dining in chinoiserie decor.

CVN is more of an art dealer, so no rotating exhibitions here. Bring a few million baht for a Thawan Duchanee, but prices start from much lower than that. 02-630-2251, open Mon-Sat 11am7pm

!6 401 Silom Soi 7, 02-636-6622. BTS Chong Nonsi

GALLERIES AND ATTRACTIONS One of Silom’s most colorful landmarks, 1 Mahamariamman Temple (Wat Khaek) (between Pan Rd. and Soi 17, 02-238-4007) feels more like it belongs in India than downtown Bangkok. Built during the 19th century by Tamil immigrants, it is one of the main non-Buddhist places of worship in the capital. The area is also bustling with galleries. Just around the corner, Manit Sriwanichpoom’s 2 Kathmandu Photo Gallery (87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700) is Bangkok’s preeminent photography gallery. Its exhibitions center on social issues, urbanisation and the country’s photographic heritage—well worth a regular visit. Nearby, 3 H Gallery (201 Sathorn Nua Soi 12, 085-021-5508) is set in a beautiful late-19th century, wooden building where Brian Curtin curates exhibitions by emerging contemporary Asian artists.

NIGHTLIFE The Bangkok venue of Asia’s mostrecognized high-end nightlife brand, 4 Ku De Ta (39 & 40/F, Sathorn Square Complex, 02-108-2000), consists of several restaurants, bars and clubs tied together by a slick, exclusive feel. The main restaurant, Signature, offers contemporary Asian—particularly Japanese—cuisine, while Club Lounge and Soundgarden host DJs and live music. Back on Silom Road, 5 Maggie Choo’s (underground/F, Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 02-635-6055) evokes colonial outposts, decadent

KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY

NUMBER 1 Gallery

U.N.C.L.E.

opium dens, steamy exoticism (and steaming noodles on your way in) and gentlemen’s clubs. You can usually expect some kind of entertainment: a band, a DJ accompanied by a percussionist and beautiful ladies in cheongsam dresses. For quality cocktails, 6 U.N.C.L.E. (2/F, Lady Brett, 149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-635-0406) is a wonderfully moody lounge with a stellar drinks list. An elegant hostess presides over it all, while a single barman in a classic vest stands behind the bar.

Young and fresh, with a selection of exciting emerging artists, this gallery’s price tags in the tens of thousands remain reasonable. 02-630-2523, open Mon-Sat 11am7pm

THAVIBU Representing big names like Vasan Sithiket and Navin Rawanchaikul, Thavibu is another highly-regarded gallery. 02-266-5454, open MonSat 11am-7pm.

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EXPLORING

UPPER SILOM DINING

Thai restaurant’s flagship is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion and serves royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavors. The area is also home to plenty of upscale European options, among them the elegant 47th floor !1 Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant (37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 02-

In the same building as U.N.C.L.E, 7 Lady Brett (149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-635-0405) has a cozy wood-andtiled vibe inspired by 20th-century taverns, and a menu of simple dishes: fire-roasted mustard chicken, hanger steak, braised lamb shank. The same people also own 8 Rocket (149 Sathorn Tai Soi 12, 02-635-0404), a café that keeps things simple with omelets, homemade granola and salami and cheese focaccia sandwiches. The coffee is pretty special, too. For more upscale dining, 9 Le Du (399/3 Silom Soi 7, 092-919-9969) is a top choice: an inventive Asian restaurant powered by two young Thai chefs (see page 9). For something more classically Thai, there is still no beating !0 Blue Elephant (233 Sathorn Tai Rd., 02-673-9353). The globally-known

SCARLETT

238-1991) and !2 Opus (64 Pan Rd., 02-637-9899), where a Tuscan chef prepares simple seafood dishes. Lessformal restaurants include the wonderfully idiosyncratic !3 Foo Mui Kee (10-12 Prachum Rd., 02-234-6648), t Oso an 80-year-old shop-house restautha Put rant serving Western dishes with a distinctly Chinese influence, as well as Asia’s largest branch of !4 Dean & Deluca (G/F, The Cube, Mahanakhon, 02-234-1434).

LADY BRETT

661 SILOM

!5 Baan

Silom

Come nightfall, Baan Silom is full of dining options. For a sit-down meal, the swanky steakhouse 661 Silom (02-266-8661), the baby of the team behind Le Beaulieu, has a very urban-luxury vibe, while Lebanese mainstay Nadimos (02-266-9081) and new Turkish joint Ottoman (02-635-3688) provide more exotic fare. If you want Thai food, Taling Pling (02-236-4829/30) consistently ranks among locals’ favorite restaurant chains.

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EXPLORING

RATTANAKOSIN Y SPOTLIGHT

9 Babble

Rum

NEW

SEVEN SPOONS

This restaurant on the edge of Chinatown has proven popular thanks to its commitment to local and organic ingredients. The welcoming dining room features a 1920s-30s feel alongside industrial touches like bare brick and concrete. The menu focuses on Mediterranean cuisine and also includes wood-fired pizzas and brunch-style offerings for those who can make the Tue-Sat lunch service. Don’t leave before trying the fabulous cocktails, either. 22 Chakkrapatipong Road, 02-629-9214. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am; Tue-Sat 11am-3pm. MRT Hua Lamphong. sevenspoonsbkk.wordpress.com

Start your walking tour from Prachan Pier (Tha Prachan in Thai) with a visit to 1 Tha Prachan and Amulet Market (open daily 7am-5pm), where ancient Buddha images, amulets and talismans are displayed along the footpath and in small lanes. Local advice is recommended if you plan on taking home any good-luck souvenirs. Nearby you’ll fnd the most-visited landmark in Thailand, 2 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo (open daily 8:30am-4:30pm. Entry B350). Construction on the royal resi-

dence of the first king of the current Chakri Dynasty began in 1762, and the complex is split into three zones: the Outer Court, where you’ll find Wat

WAT PHO

NAGARAPHIROM

Phra Kaeo and the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred Buddha image; the Middle Court, which contains the Dusit Maha Prasat and Chakri Maha Prasat buildings; and the Inner Court, former residence of the royal WAT PHRA KAEO

consorts. Be sure to get there early before the day is too hot. Beware, touts will tell you the palace is closed for a national holiday. Ignore them! Behind the Grand Palace, on the bank of the Chao Phraya River, is the two-year-old 3 Nagaraphirom Park. What was once a row of shophouses and several other old buildings is now a breathable green space with views of the Grand Palace. Relax among trees and lotus ponds and enjoy a great view of the

The restaurant and bar of this welcoming riverside hotel next to Phra Arthit Pier are decorated like a contemporary French café, finished in dark woods, mirrors and leather-clad couches. An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make it the perfect spot for a chilled night out. The menu features Thai and inter comfort food and plenty of cocktails. Try the Jelly Riva (vodka, melon syrup, lime juice on top of jelly). 1-2/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Athit Rd., 02633-5000. Open daily 6:30-12:30am. www.rivasurya.com

Temple of Dawn before you continue on your walk. Next, pay your respects to the 43-meter-long reclining Buddha at 4 Wat Pho (open daily 8am5pm), whose three-meter-tall feet are inlaid with mother of pearl displaying 108 Buddhist symbols. Wat Pho is also the birthplace of traditional Thai massage, and home to the country’s most famous massage school (see page 30).In a beautiful colonial-style building nearby, 5 Museum Siam (open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm) is one of

MUSEUM SIAM

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EXPLORING

RATTANAKOSIN Bangkok’s best museums, portraying the history of Thailand through multimedia installations and interactive exhibitions. The venue also hosts an interesting lineup of rotating exhibitions, like the current Hat Tricks (through Dec 9) which delves into the history of Thai headwear. After exploring Thailand’s heritage, take a break at 6 Sala Rattanakosin (39 Soi Ta Tien, Maharat Rd., 02-622-1388) and enjoy Thai food with great views of the Temple

PHRA ATHIT HOTSPOTS Some of the Old Town’s best venues line this charming riverside road.

!0 Escapade The specialty here is Angus beef burgers that regularly rank among Bangkok’s best. Double your intake with a Quarter Cow (two beef patties, two slices of cheddar cheese with truffle sauce) and be sure to try the decadent smoothie cocktails.

SHEEPSHANK

112 Phra Athit Rd., 081-406-3773. Open Tue-Sun noon-midnight. www. fb.com/Escaburgersandshakes

!1 Sheepshank This restaurant is designed to resemble a sophisticated boat house where you can sit back and enjoy views of the river and Rama VIII Bridge while experiencing Spanish dishes like seafood paella with saffron. 47 Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-5165. www.sheepshankpublichouse.com

!2 Pipit Banglamphu Thanks to the efforts of the Banglamphu community, plans to demolish Bangkok’s first printing school, which dates back to 1924, were derailed, and the building recently reopened as the Pipit Banglamphu Museum. Registered a place of national importance by the Fine Art Department of Thailand, the museum focuses on the culture of Bangkok’s Rattanakosin Island area, as well as the printing school’s history.

SALA RATTANAKOSIN

of Dawn (Wat Arun). This stylish riverside venue boats a small number of guest rooms but half of the building is dedicated to wining and dining. There’s also a rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping cocktails. If you’re in the mood for more drinks, head to 7 The Deck (Arun Residence, 36-38 Maharaj Rd.), a charming outdoor venue just a short walk from Sala Rattanakosin. Set in a five-room boutique hotel, the Deck offers a delightful atmosphere in which to

Next to Phra Sumen Fort, Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-1850. Entry B100. Closed Mondays. www.fb.com/pipitbanglamphu

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enjoy another drink or two, and also has a sophisticated Thai food menu. Finish your Old Town tour with a night visit to 8 Pak Klong Talad (open 24 hours), Bangkok’s largest flower market. Flowers from not only Thailand but around the world arrive here each day to be distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers. You’ll find everything from local jasmine to imported red roses. Fresh batches arrive after midnight, which is when you’ll get to experience the busiest trading atmosphere.

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THE DECK

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ThewhereGuide BANGKOK | OCTOBER 2014

NEW

THE BEER BRIDGE

This newly open bar and restaurant puts the focus on craft beer and booze-friendly bites, with simple yet thoughtful tapas dishes and comfort food. Nibble on fried lamb meat balls in sofrito sauce (B120) and chicken heart with chorizo (B130), before moving on to the in-house pappardelle with fresh king prawns with portabello and cognac sauce (B690). The highlight, though, is the stellar list of over 100 beers from all over the world, including American Deschutes Inversion IPA (B260) and the stronger, slightly bitter Belgian St Bernardus Abt 12 (B290). 1/F, Portico, 31 Soi Lang Suan, 02-652-1979, open daily 11-1am.

BANGKOKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BEST VENUES 24 DINING 26 NIGHTLIFE

30 HEALTH + WELLNESS 31 SHOP + SERVICES

32 ART + ATTRACTIONS 33 NAVIGATE OCT OBER 2014 I W HER E THA ILA N D 23

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BANGKOK

DINING NEW

MARLIN CAFÉ

This cool addition to the Ari neighborhood serves both Japanese and Western dishes in a rustic and industrial dining room that’s all steel, concrete, glass and greenery. Their fresh take sashimi set consists of salmon, tuna, yellowtail, saba and octopus, served with a choice of pickled or fresh wasabi, while the French-inspired Japanese fare consists of dishes like Foie Gras Chill Chill, a grilled salmon roll topped with seared foie gras. Located in the north of Bangkok, you can stop there on the way back from Chatuchak Market. 117/4-5 Phahon Yothin Soi 7, 02-023-3438. Open daily 4:30pm-midnight. BTS Ari

Top List DELICIOUS DIM SUM

HONG BAO

This Chinese restaurant is stirring people into a dim sum delirium. While the food leans in a decidedly Cantonese direction, the décor is quite modern and the new location on Sukhumvit Soi 39 makes getting there much easier than before. Noon is the best time to visit as the expertly prepared dim sum are served only during lunchtime and pack some serious wow factor. Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-3565. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10pm; Sat-Sun 10:30am-10pm

MEI JIANG

This elegant establishment overlooking the Chao Phraya River offers one of the best dim sum experiences in town. The food is authentic Cantonese fare, while the service is knowledgeable and courteous. There’s even a cool display of tea on the counter and specially-trained staff so you can have your very own mini tea ceremony. The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02861-2888. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. Ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin.

PARADISE DYNASTY

Although slightly let down by its canteenlike mall location, this Bangkok branch of a Singaporean chain is still a solid Cantonese restaurant. It has a more casual dining vibe to the rather lavish décor on show at outlets back home. Recommended dishes include the xiao long bao, Szechuan style homemade noodles with beef, and pork dumpling with chili sauce. Prices are decent and service excellent.

HONG BAO

CHEF POM

Chef Thanarak Chuto’s riverside Chinese cuisine covers dim sum as well dishes like Hokkaido scallop with garlic, Szechuan sauce and milk, drunken chicken with wasabi and jelly fish, and seared beef tenderloin with onion, kale and Hong Kong red wine sauce. Although Thai, Chef Thanarak has been cooking Cantonese food for more than 30 years in places such as the Shanghai Mansion Hotel in Yaowarat. Take note: they do serve shark fin dishes. 622/69-70 Rama 3 Rd., 02-294-3998, 090-9711193. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5-10:30pm

Y SPOTLIGHT

4/F, Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-129-4411, 082338-9999. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam

Attico

Sitting pretty on the 28th floor, this Tuscan-inspired restaurant boasts a rather ritzy but warm atmosphere, and a kitchen headed by Dario Busnelli, a native of Lombardy with two-Michelin-star experience. Traditional Tuscan and Lombard dishes such as homemade ravioli con porcini, burrata salad with parma ham, and branzino al cartoccio (steamed whole sea bass from Brittany) are hearty and authentic. There’s also a lengthy and well-curated list of old world wine. 28/F, Radisson Blu, 27 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-302-3333. Open daily 6-11pm. BTS Asok

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DINING

CHEF MAN

This is one of the most popular places for dim sum right now. Make your reservation early. Excellent preparation, fresh ingredients and perfect timing make even the most basic shrimp dumplings exciting. Located in the Eastin Grand Sathorn Hotel, the atmosphere is fairly vibrant thanks to a large open kitchen where a small and frenzied army of cooks prepare the Cantonese dishes. 3/F, Eastin Grand Sathorn, Sathorn Rd., 02-212-3741. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10pm. BTS Surasak.

INDOOR ISAAN Three cool spots to sample Northeastern food more commonly found on the city’s sidewalks.

Somtum Der One of the first to bring street food into a more comfortable setting, it features arty touches and lots of blond wood. The menu has a focus on somtam, a spicy Thai papaya salad, and other classic Northeastern (Isaan) dishes like laab moo tord (spicy pork balls) and kor moo yang (grilled pork neck). 5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am-10pm. BTS Sala Daeng.

TOR UM TUM

Tor Um Tum

CHEF MAN

DIN TAI FUNG

Started over fifty years ago as a cooking oil store in Taiwan, this global chain of restaurants specializes in xiao long bao (soupfilled steamed dumplings), shao mai and other dumplings. The honed menu, the general appeal of the product (who doesn’t like dumplings?) and the handmade, quick-service model have made it an instant hit. Also try the dry noodles with pickled mustard and shredded pork, and the noodle soup with vegetable pork wonton.

Run by the same chef and in the same spot as the famous Isaan restaurant Tum Mour, a makeover now draws in a younger crowd to taste authentic Northeastern dishes like somtam Thai (papaya salad, B40), laab ped (spicy minced duck salad, B90) and yam nuea yang (spicy grilled beef salad, B90), while sipping on a Beerlao or Sapporo. Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-714-3798. Open daily 11:30am-10pm. BTS Ekkamai

Kai Yang Sua Yai by Mangmoom This colorful shophouse transports the dishes of a legendary local grilled chicken joint into a proper dining setting. Tuck into a whole chicken (B220), along with namprik pla ra (chili paste with fermented fish, B195) and somtam poo (papaya salad with freshwater crab, B95). Wash it down with Singha, fruit juice or wine by the glass. They offer about 15 vegetarian dishes, too. Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-6428. Open daily 11am-10pm

SOMTUM DER

7/F, CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 02-646-1282. Open daily 11am-10pm. BTS Chit Lom

MEAT MARKET

three Steakhouses we love

HAMILTON’S STEAK HOUSE

1 HAMILTON’S STEAK HOUSE G/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am2:30pm; Mon-Sat 6:30-10:30pm. MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng 2 RIB ROOM & BAR (RR&B) 31/F, The Landmark Bangkok, 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-254-0404. Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Nana. 3 NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE 2/F, JW Marriott Bangkok, 4 Sukhumvit Soi 2, 02-656-7700. Open daily 6-11pm. BTS Phloen Chit.

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BANGKOK

NIGHTLIFE NEW

DO NOT DISTURB

If you want to see how Thais drink, check out the new warehouse-style nightlife complex, Do Not Disturb, also home to Kukuu Yakiniku Bar. If the dance music downstairs is too much for you, go upstairs to the cactus garden balcony, where you can relax as an acoustic band plays easy-listening pop. Signature cocktails carry on the Nippon theme, like the manly whiskey-based Samurai (B360), a take on an old-fashioned smoked with apple wood chips. Behind Nunglen and Escobar, Ekamai Soi 5/1. Tel. 094-414-9266 Open Tue-Sun 8pm-2am.

Top List ROOFTOP BARS

ABOVE ELEVEN

FLOAT ON

L’APPART

This bar and restaurant doesn’t just have great views of the city going for it; there’s also an adventurous menu of Japanese-Peruvian fusion (aka Nikkei) cuisine. Small plates like acebichado rolls (seabass, ika karage, avocado) and skewers of anticucho beef heart are bettered only by their signature Pisco Sour. Note that if you are sitting at the bar you’ll have your back to the skyline, so it’s worth booking a table in advance.

On the 32nd floor of Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, Chef Jeremy Tourret’s modern French cuisine is served in a restaurant that feels like a classic Parisian apartment—parquet floor, velvet upholstery, wood paneling, even a La Cornue stove in the open kitchen. The chef is passionate about Thai produce, so expect to find regional touches in the brief menu, broken down into market, signature dishes and tapas.

33/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Nana.

32/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Soi (between Sois 13 and 15), 02-126-9999. Open daily 7pm-midnight. BTS Nana.

Bangkok’s best riverside bars

THE SPEAKEASY

Perched atop the Hotel Muse Bangkok, this elegant bar harks back to the jazz age of the 1920s with decor inspired by the prohibition era, featuring lots of dark wood and Art Deco touches. A balcony on the 24th floor presents 180-degree views of Bangkok, while an al fresco rooftop offers a more leisurely terrace atmosphere. ABOVE ELEVEN

24-25/F, Hotel Muse Bangkok Langsuan, 55/555 Lang Suan, 02-630-4000. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Chit Lom.

SALA RATTANAKOSIN

1 VIVA AVIV B/F, River City Shopping Complex, 23 Yotha Rd., 02-639-6305. Open daily 11am-midnight. www. vivaaviv.com

RED SKY

The 55th floor view from Centara’s rooftop overlooks the Siam and Chit Lom area. Al fresco dining and drinking takes place under a swooping, red-lit arch in an environment that is somewhat more relaxed than the adjoining Fifty Five restaurant. Chef Hugo Coudurier prepares a menu focused on high-quality steaks, best enjoyed with a drop from Centara Grand’s notably excellent wine cellar.

2 BABBLE & RUM 1-2/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Athit Rd., 02-633-500. Open daily 6:30am-12:30am. www.rivasuryahotelbangkok.com 3 SALA RATTANAKOSIN 39 Soi Ta Tien, Maharaj Rd., 02-622-1388. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.salarattanakosin.com

55/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd, 02-100-1234. Open daily 5:30pm-1am. BTS Siam/Chit Lom. THE SPEAKEASY

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NIGHTLIFE

CLOUD 47

OCTAVE

The bar’s trendy-but-mature vibe is accentuated by striking views from the top floor of the Marriott Sukhumvit hotel. The first level features a long balcony filled with sculpture-like sofas, above which are a couple of private rooms and a third tier with 360-dedgree views around a circular bar. DJs play not-too-loud funky house to a crowd of young executives and hotel guests drinking classic cocktails with slight twists. The food focuses on Asian-themed bar snacks. 45/F, Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo.

For a break from the high-end, hotel rooftop bars, this venue has equally stunning views of the central business district in a more roughand-ready environment. Prices are reasonable by any standard, but for a rooftop venue they’re downright cheap. Give the main dishes a miss and instead opt for fried bar snacks to accompany jugs of draught Singha beer and Absolut vodka cocktails. Regular live bands provide a casual, party-like atmosphere. 47/F, United Center, Silom Rd., 091-889-9600. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight. BTS Sala Daeng.

OCTAVE

Y SPOTLIGHT

Q BAR BAND

Q Bar

The long-standing nightlife venue always attracts a colorful crowd thanks to its heady mix of busting bass lines with live bands performing top 40 hits and retro classics six days a week. The second floor outdoor lounge is not just a great chillout spot, but also has dancers partying till late into the night. A firm favorite for over 14 years, the bar has recently been given a renovation to stay on top of Sukhumvit 11’s rapidly evolving nightlife scene. Promotions run daily. On Wednesdays’ Viva La Noche night, ladies can enjoy an open cocktail bar (with five Spanish cocktails) at B300 per person. Saturdays feature themed parties, like World Tour on Oct 4, Decades on Oct 11, Contempo presents All That Jazz on Oct 18 and Fashion Nite on Oct 25. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3248. Open daily 9pm-2am. BTS Nana

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GUIDE TO

SUKHUMVIT 11 NIGHTCLUB A

NIGHTCLUB B WAX 08 2308 3246 www.waxbangkok.com www.facebook.com/WaxBangkok

Lose yourself in Wax’s hedonistic party space, which features truly opulent decor complete with gold sofas and ornate chandeliers. However, there’s substance as well as style with a state of the art sound system with top international and local DJs spinning cutting edge dance music to a sophisticated party crowd. Open bar Wednesday-Sunday from 10pm-midnight with free entrance.

The popular nightlife venue located in the heart of Bangkok’s party scene, Levels Club & Lounge, promises an unforgettable partying experience. It offers a world-class audio-visual environment, a sizeable dance floor and features Bangkok’s hottest DJs. There are special weekly promotions like the Thursday’s TOO SEXY Ladies Night, where girls gets three free drinks before midnight. Open daily 9pm till late. Check their website for a full listing of international DJs and promotions for the month of October.

NIGHTCLUB G Asoke Rd.

Petchaburi Soi 19

INSANITY

LIVE MUSIC B

Soi 15

02 653 2923 www.clubinsanitybangkok.com www.facebook.com/insanitynightclub

Klong Saen Saep

08 2308 3246 www.levelsclub.com www.facebook.com/levelsclub

Petchaburi Rd.

LEVELS CLUB & LOUNGE

Soi 13

Unbeatable laser shows and the best sound systems in town attract beautiful partygoers to Insanity nightclub on Sukhumvit Soi 12 seven days a week. Dance the night away in this cavernous room with hundreds of other people till late in the night. Special promotions every day including 50% discount before midnight. In October, the club features fun events like the Golden Playboy Bunnies-themed night on Oct 2 and Halloween Party on Oct 31. There’ll also be special guest DJs performing on Oct 18 (DJ Ono) and Oct 24 (Master D).

Soi 11

Soi 9

Soi 7/1

SUGAR CLUB 08 2308 3246 www.facebook.com/SugarClubBangkok

This brand new nightlife venue has been shaking up Soi 11 since its grand opening on Oct 1 with a world-class lighting and sound system. Specializing in live hip-hop, the October line-up includes Chin Chinawut on Oct 3, Da Endorphine on Oct 10 and Thaitanium on Oct 17. Entry is free for ladies and B200 for men (including one drink). For guys, it’s B500 for five drinks all night from Sun-Thu (until midnight on Fri and Sat), and for ladies, B300 for three drinks on the same days.

Soi 7 PUB F

Soi 5 THE KIWI 02 653 3144 thekiwibangkok.com/en www.facebook.com/TheKIWIBangkok

The Kiwi on Soi 8 is a long-time favorite with expats and visitors thanks to its welcoming pub atmosphere, and outdoor terrace - the perfect place to watch live sports. It also has a good reputation for delicious hearty meals from a pub breakfast to classic fish and chips. They also do a “Free BBQ” every Tuesday and a great roast dinner from noon every Sunday. Watch Live sports: NRL, AFL, EPL, F1 and many more.

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GUIDE TO

SUKHUMVIT 11 OUTDOOR TERRACE D

OUTDOOR LOUNGE C KAZBAR 02 651 3313 www.facebook.com/Kazbarbangkok

New to Soi 11, The Kazbar is an al fresco street-side Shisha lounge located at the entrance to the Prime 11 building. This “Oasis of 11” boasts a lounge vibe, an intriguing tapas menu, chilled tunes and reasonably priced ice cold beers and specialty cocktails. Open from 6pm till late every day.

Q BAR

PUB E

Sukhumvit Asok G

Ratch

adap

THE AUSTRALIAN PUB & BBQ

Soi 10

Nana

Soi 6

Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

02 651 0800 www.theaustralianbangkok.com www.facebook.com/TheAussiePub

Rama 4 Rd.

Sukhumvit Rd.

Soi 12

Soi 8

Rd.

Soi 14

hisek

082 308 3246 www.qbarbangkok.com www.facebook.com/QBarBangkok

Situated in the heart of Soi 11, “The Aussie,” as it’s known to locals, is a great spot for sports fans. In fact, they feature no less than 14 flat-screens and two projectors constantly showing live sports from around the world including the AFL and NRL. There’s also live music every day of the week, an impressive pub grub menu that includes specialties like Crocodile Kebabs and a chance to watch the world go by on the street-side terrace.

This well-known fixture on the nightlife scene has been running for over 14 years and was voted Best Bar in Bangkok by readers of leading city living publication BK Magazine. The nightlife institution welcomes international DJs from all over the world as well as Bangkok’s cream of the crop. Fresh from a recent renovation, you can now take advantage of special promotions every night of the week including a promotion on Sunday to Thursday, where B500 gets you free entrance and a free bar on standard drinks from 9pm to midnight. Open daily from 9pm till late.

LOUNGE BAR C

AZURA LOUNGE BAR 08 2308 3246 www.facebook.com/AzuraLoungebarBkk

LIVE MUSIC H BANGKOK BEAT 02 651 3919 www.thebankokbeat.com www.facebook.com/bkkbeat

If live music, high energy and lots of friendly girls is your thing then Bangkok Beat is the place to party! Every night they have two bands playing the best in rock, R&B, pop, hip-hop, funk and classic hits all night long. With a laidback atmosphere, the two-story space has a sizeable dance floor and a regular happy hour with B95 drinks from 9pmmidnight from Sunday to Thursday and a ladies’ night every Tuesday. Open daily 9pm-late.

Sukhumvit Soi 11’s newest lounge bar serves delicious Mediterranean dishes, from Greek to Spanish tapas in a relaxed outdoor setting. At the bar you’ll find refreshing cocktails, while world-class DJs spin the perfect pregame soundtrack—get down there for the Sundowner Cocktail Buffet from 7-9pm. The grand opening party on Oct 9 features an open bar from 9-11pm.

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BANGKOK

HEALTH + WELLNESS PANPURI ORGANIC SPA This high-end Thai spa specializes in organic aromatherapy and indulgent skincare products that have a specific focus on using traditional Thai and Southeast Asian ingredients. Hidden behind the display shelves of their flagship store are the two small treatment rooms. The perfectly formed space welcomes you in with black stone and gold mosaics and offers a wide range of treatments. Try the 2.5-hour Pan-Vimarn Heavenly Touch of Paradise (B4,500), which incorporates an organic tea tree foot soak, a body scrub, a head, shoulder and neck massage and a Mali-Nirundhra facial. Lobby Level, Gaysorn Plaza, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-6561199. BTS Chit Lom. www.panpuri.com

Top List SPAS IN BEAUTIFUL HOUSES

Y SPOTLIGHT

THE ORIENTAL SPA

As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Try the Oriental Signature Treatment, aromatherapy signature massage, for 90 min (B4,500) or a full detoxifying option, the 2.5-hour Oriental Organic Journey (B7,500). Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000. BTS Saphan Taksin. Open daily 9am-10pm HEALTH LAND (EKKAMAI)

3 MANDARIN ORIENTAL

HEALTH LAND (EKKAMAI)

SPA AT FACE

Tucked in a beautiful compound of wooden Thai houses, this spa rolls out massages that utilize old-school principles. The most popular is the Wat Pho Healer, for 180 min (B3,500), named after the famous Thai massage school. It starts with your choice of body scrubs using Thai herbs, and an Ayurvedic massage or herbal compress and oil massage, before focusing on your head, feet, back and shoulder. Afterwards, enjoy a drink at the Face Bar and some food at Hazara Indian restaurant in the same complex.

29 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-713-6048. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 9am-7pm

Set in a grand Thai-style building in front of Ekkamai Soi 10, Health Land is considered one of the best spas in Bangkok thanks to its clean facilities, well-trained staff and wallet-friendly prices. A two-hour traditional Thai massage is now priced at B500 while an aromatheraphy body massage is B850 or B6,500 for 10 session coupons (90 min). You can also opt for a one-hour foot massage (B280).

Wat Pho

Famous as both the home of the 46-meterlong reclining Buddha and as a center of traditional massage, it even offers courses to learn for yourself.

96/1 Sukhumvit Soi 65 (Ekkamai), 02-392-2233. Open daily 9am-11pm

SPA AT FACE

Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon. 02-255-4771, Tha Thien Pier. Open daily 8am-6pm. B100. www.watpomassage.com

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SHOPPING NEW

VUUDH

This Thai company specializes in high-end interior fragrances with an Eastern influence. Its selection of products is limited— candles, diffusers and sprays—but very elegant, much like the store itself, which is a dazzling jewel box of marble and reflective metals, arranged in diamond shapes. The scents are named after different Asian cities, with signature fragances including Bangkok (Siamese jasmine), Shanghai (orange and jasmine) and Singapore (sandalwood and orange blossom). Of the fragrance accessories, we particularly like the elegant Immortality Diffuser. 4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd. www.vuudh.com. BTS Phloen Chit

Top List VINTAGE FINDS

TALAD ROD FAI

This vintage market reopened at the end of last year after being relocated from its old spot beside Chatuchak Market. The new location behind Seacon Square is home to small stalls selling all sorts of retro bric-a-brac, from antique toys and vinyl to secondhand clothes and cameras. There are also plenty of vintage-inspired bars and cafés. To reach it, take the BTS to Udomsuk station and then take a taxi. Talad Rod Fai, Sri Nakarin Soi 51, 081-1827-5885. Open Thu-Sun 5pm-midnight

The selection of products reflects the owner’s love for vintage Americana. He specializes in menswear from New York, both new pieces and old stock, with a focus on 20s-70s military-themed apparel like shirts, jackets, leather bags and boots from brands like Ralph Lauren, WRL, Herman, Jong, Converse and Penney’s. Prices are quite high, but the stock is unique compared to other vintage stores. 1/F, Homeplace Building, Thonglor Soi 13, 081255-2866. Open daily 11am-6:30pm. www.fb.com/ woodensubmarine

4 TALAD ROD FAO

WOODEN SUBMARINE

MACHINE AGE WORKSHOP

AGAIN & AGAIN

Unlike other ragged-looking vintage stores, this It-shop hooks its customers up with more in-vogue items. Glittery dresses, shirts and a selection of high-quality skirts and pants are nicely arranged by color, with new stock arriving twice a week. Although most of the items make for quite girly outfits, they do have shirts, jackets and shoes for men, too. Room B1A, Market Place, Thonglor Soi 4, 089-4865359. Open daily 11am-9pm. www.vintageagainandagain.com. BTS Thong Lo.

Y SPOTLIGHT

This store specializes in restoring, recycling and repurposing iconic artifacts from America’s golden age of manufacturing, from the late 1800s to mid-1900s. Expect to find items like vintage U.S. Army drafting tables, wood radios and leather luggage. It’s also worth stopping by to visit the café, where you can get a good cup of coffee, craft beer and hearty pulled pork and beef brisket sandwiches. 281/7 Ekkamai Soi 15, 02-381-8596. Open Tue-Sun 10am-7pm. tinyurl.com/phla6ev.

UNFASHION

Siwilai

Taking its name from the Thai word for ‘civilized,’ this 826-sq-meter lifestyle retail space features non-mainstream designer goods headlined by collaborations between Siwilai and of-themoment brands like Kitsune, Globe-Trotter and Orlebar Brown. As well as fashion, the store also houses vintage records, books, magazines and other curiosities. It’s located on the 5th floor of Central Embassy shopping mall.

Dozens of pairs of leather shoes line the windows of this small red-brick vintage store, compelling passersby to pop-in for a look. There’s a clear sense of style to the selection, with most items imported from Italy and dating back to the 1970s. It’s not too expensive, generally ranging from B380-5,000, and there’s also a selection of other vintage leather goods, particularly bags and belts. Ekkamai Soi 10, 094-421-2411. Open daily noon9pm. www.fb.com/unfashionvintage MACHINE AGE WORKSHOP

5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605809-12. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.siwilaistore. com. BTS Phloen Chit

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ART+ ATTRACTIONS NEW

KULT 64 GALLERY

This new, French-owned gallery on the lively Pan Road focuses on up-and-coming Asian artists, with an eye for playful, unusual work, from oil painting and acrylics to sculptures and even a few interior items. Keeping specific names close to their chest, they only display a few pieces from each of their artists at a time, but do stage the occasional exhibition, the next of which focuses on a young Thai female artist named Porporrina and will take place from mid-November onwards. It’s a modest gallery but very stylish owing to the interior design background of the owners, who also have a sister branch on the ground floor of Sofitel So hotel. 64 Pan Rd., Silom, 02-235-6750. 10am-4pm. www. toineinbangkok.com

Top List GALLERIES THAT SERVE DRINKS

SOY SAUCE FACTORY

A photographer and a bar owner teamed up to transform this warehouse in Chinatown into a new art studio. It has a New York industrial loft vibe with light installations, DJ booths, a kitchen for pop-up dining events, cyclorama on the second floor and a rooftop view of the canal. Pulling in an eclectic crowd, the venue hosts many one-off parties, exhibitions and other special events.

GOJA GALLERY CAFE

11/1 Charoenkrung Soi 24, 092-115-8696. Open TueSat noon-11pm

This new café-slash-art space occupies a renovated Chareonkrung shophouse at the foot of the iconic abandoned Sathorn Unique skyscraper, a short walk from BTS Saphan Taksin. Its opening group exhibition, Threshold, featured a who’s who of local up-and-coming artists whose multi-disciplinary works filled all four floors. The tastefully decorated front-of-house (whitewashed brick walls, filament bulbs, blond wood) is a prime spot for a cheap breakfast, while there’s also a charming rooftop. Charoen Krung Soi 51, 086-986-9421. Open daily 10am-midnight. BTS Saphan Taksin.

GOJA GALLERY CAFÉ

Nestled inside a sub soi off Sukhumvit Soi 71 (behind MaxValu), just a few minutes’ walk from BTS Phra Khanong, this new shophouse gallery boasts a minimal interior lined with art pieces. There are DJ decks in one corner, while on the other side of the room is a makeshift drip coffee bar. Past exhibitions have focused on street art from Thai and Japanese artists, and Japanese photography. 5/2 Sukhumvit 71 Soi Pridi 3, Open Tue-Sun midnight9pm. BTS Phra Khanong

BRIDGE

4 SOY SAUCE FACTORY

SPEEDY GRANDMA

In a renovated but still raw-looking shophouse, this gallery-cum-bar frequently hosts exhibitions from up-and-coming artists, talks, performance pieces and workshops. It has also been the site of a guerilla flea market and experimental film screnings—and some pretty raucous opening parties. Expect to drink with a young, bohemian crowd of both Thais and expats, as well as clued-in visiting artists of various disciplines.

672/50-52 Charoenkrung Soi 28, 089-508-3859. Open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm

Y SPOTLIGHT

Jim Thompson House

The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses brought here from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. BTS National Stadium. www.jimthompsonhouse.com SPEEDY GRANDMA

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BANGKOK

NAVIGATE

Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am to 3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The three main apps are Easy Taxi (www.easytaxi.com/th), Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand/) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok). All of these are in English language and charge a fee on top of the meter price.

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom Line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130. The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (klong) still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15 to B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNBHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) – 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers, 02-250-5500 OCT OBER 2014 I W HER E THA ILA N D 33

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

1 Learning about the culture of Rattanakosin island at the newly opened Pipit Banglamphu Museum on Phra Athit Road. See page 22.

6 Enjoying a VIP cinema experi- !1 Witnessing the buffalo racing fes- !7 Shopping for unique vintage finds,

2 Enjoying the stunning views of the Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun) while having Thai food and cocktails at Sala Rattanakosin, the stylish restaurant set by the Chao Phraya River. See page 22.

7 Drinking cocktails at the outdoor cactus garden balcony while listening to live music at the newly opened Do Not Disturb and Yukuu Yakiniku Bar. See page 26.

ence at Enigma at Paragon Cineplex, where you can lie down under a duvet with a glass of wine. See page 10.

8 Trying flavorsome Asian comfort 3 Catching a VIP bus from Bang- food in a 100-year-old house painted kok’s Suvarnabhumi airport to the royal beach resort of Hua Hin to enjoy international food by the beach at Oceanside Beach Club & Restaurant. See page 14.

4 Browsing for fashion brands at the countless boutiques at the new Siam Square One. See page 11. 5 Indulging in a 2.5-hour Pan-vimana Heavenly Touch of Paradise massage at Panpuri Organic Spa, the high-end Thai spa brand specializing in organic aromatherapy.

pink at Namsaah Bottling Trust, the new restaurant run by a famous local chef. See page 19.

9 Getting a tension-relieving Thai massage at the spiritual home of the art, Wat Pho, also home to the famous 46-meter-long reclining Buddha. See page 21.

tival in front of Chonburi Town Hall in Pattaya, a 1.5-hour drive from Bangkok, where you can see the beasts race as well as compete in other competitions. See page 4.

sipping candy-colored cocktails and mingling with Bangkok’s hipsters all in an extremely laidback atmosphere at Talad Rotfai. See page 31.

!8 Sampling authentic Thai dishes !2 Watching numerous world-class served up at Nahm at the Metroperformances at Bangkok’s 16th International Festival of Dance & Music at Thailand Cultural Centre. See page 4.

politan Hotel in Bangkok, recently voted world’s 13th best restaurant. See page 8.

!9 Drinking in the cityscape view !3 Admiring the work of established from the al fresco bar of Octave on and emerging Thai and international artists at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre. See page 11.

top of the Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit Hotel. See page 27.

@0 Staying up late, or getting up early, !4 Tasting authentic Thai dishes rich to experience the chaos of the daily with spices and herbs at Bo.lan, set in an exquisitely decorated wooden home. See page 8.

flower trading at Pak Klong Talad, Thailand’s largest flower market. See page 22.

!0 Exploring Bangkok’s upper Silom, !5 Admiring Wat Phra Kaeo and @1 Admiring the antiques and the home to numerous art galleries, sophisticated nightlife venues and top quality restaurants. See page 19.

the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred Buddha image. See page 21.

Art Deco-inspired style created by famous architect Bill Bensley at The Siam. See page 8.

!6 Getting a fresh perspective on the history of Thailand with the interactive exhibitions of the Museum Siam. See page 21.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

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Where to find Hotels in Bangkok The AETAS Bangkok All Seasons Bangkok Siam Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11 Amari Watergate Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa Arnoma Baan Noppawong Bally’s Studio Suites Banyan Tree Bangkok Best Western Sukhumvit Cabochon Hotel & Residence Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Centara Grand at Central World Centara Hotels & Resorts Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok Conrad Bangkok Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Dusit Thani Bangkok Emporium Suites Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Four Points by Sheraton Four Seasons Bangkok GLOW Pratunam Grand Hyatt Erawan Grand Mercure Park Avenue Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Holiday Inn Silom Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 Hotel Muse Hua Chang Heritage Hotel Imperial Queens Park InterContinental Bangkok JW Marriott Bangkok King Power The Landmark Bangkok Le Fenix Sukhumvit Lebua LIT Bangkok Luxx Majestic Grande Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit 57

Mercure & Ibis Bangkok Siam The Metropolitan Bangkok Millennium Hilton Miracle Grand Convention Montien Riverside Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit Sukhumvit Novotel Bangkok Siam Square Novotel Bangkok Impact Oaks Bangkok Sathorn The Okura Prestige Bangkok Park Plaza Sukhumvit Pathumwan Princess The Peninsula Bangkok Phachara Suites Plaza Athénée Bangkok Pullman Bangkok King Power Radisson Blu Plaza Radisson Suites Bangkok Ramada Encore Bangkok Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Riva Surya Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers Siam Kempinski Shangri-La Bangkok Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit The Berkeley Hotel The Continent Hotel Bangkok The Davis Bangkok The Eugenia Hotel & Spa The Siam Siam @ Siam Design Hotel & Spa Sivatel Bangkok Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit Sofitel So Bangkok The St. Regis Bangkok The Sukhothai Bangkok Swissotel Le Concorde Swissotel Nai Lert Park VIE Hotel Bangkok ViVa Garden W Hotel Bangkok The Westin Grande Sukhumvit

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where Thailand

Hotels in other provinces

Shopping Malls

Anantara Rasananda Koh Phangan Villa Resort & Spa Chandara Resort Conrad Koh Samui Dara Samui Beach Resort & Spa Villa Dusit D2 Baraquda Pattaya InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort & Spa JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa Le Méridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa Renaissance Koh Samui Resort & Spa Renaissance Phuket Resort & Spa Samed Resorts Santiburi Resort Sheraton Krabi Sheraton HuaHin Resort & Spa Springfield Group Resort, Golf & Spa Tamarind Village Chiang Mai

CentralWorld The Emporium Department Complex Peninsula Plaza Siam Paragon The River City Shopping Complex

Serviced Apartments Adelphi Service Apartments Adelphi Suites Bangkok Ascott Sathorn Bangkok Asoke Residence Sukhumvit Cape House Serviced Apartments Courtyard Marriott Grand Mercure Bangkok Asoke Residence Marriott Executive Apartments Sathorn Vista Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park Mayfair Bangkok Marriott Executive Apartment Natural Ville Executive Residences, Bangkok Nonsri Residence Bangkok Oakwood Residence Sukhumvit 24 Oriental Residence Bangkok Somerset Lakeview Sukkhumvit 16 The River Condominium

Others TAT Tourist Information Counter at Suvarnabhumi Airport (arrivals) Chao Phraya Express Boat Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) Blue Elephant Restaurant Devarana Spa Elemis Spa at The St. Regis Bangkok The Kiwi Bangkok Sports Pub & Grill The Australian Pub & BBQ Angel City Diner Yunomori Onsen & Spa Pizza Romana Pala La Grande Perle Kuppadeli Ted’s Coffee Kalpapruek Jim Thomson Restaurant Viva & Aviv

Y Where reaches over 100,000 visitors each month. For sales enquiries, contact Sherry Maturose Kato at mkato@asia-city.co.th or call 02-624-9638.

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