Where® Thailand March 2012

Thailand

PLUS

m a rch 2 0 12 the complete guide to go 速

速

quick escapes

Day trips from Bangkok

Beachside Dining Flighty Festivals Chinatown Eats

PLUS YOUR ULTIMATE GUIDE TO BANGKOK COVER test 3.indd 1

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contents where

®

l THAILAND l march 2012

the guide

Bangkok

18 arts+Culture The top galleries, attractions and museums and this month's exhibition highlights

20 dining Your A-Z to the best eats in town plus our taste trek around Yaowarat

24 nightlife

14

The rooftop bar trend continues in Sathorn

25 Health+Wellness

Features

Where to go for a soothing spa

06 l Escape from the city

26 SHOPS+Services Bespoke shirts that are a cut above your usual street side tailors

Four alternative day trips that let you experience a different side of Thai life

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28 Maps

10 l Hungry in Hua Hin

Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin

The hottest new restaurants in the popular beachside resort town

Escapes

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33 Hot Stuff 28 navigate

16 Andaman Arrivals

34 30 Things We Love

Editor Top Koaysomboon

Senior Sales Associate Napasnun Sawanrachai

Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapong

Hot dates

14 eastern Mail

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

Managing Editor Grégoire Glachant Sub-editor Ruthie Napier

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12 North + NorthEast

Managing Editor, Special Projects Nick Measures

General Manager James Fuss

also inside

Marketing Manager Arunee Wilson Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant On the Cover Haew Suwat Waterfall, Kao Yai Cover Photo by Nattaphon Phanphongsanon

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/WhereThailand

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

Mvp | National Sales Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.

Com

Mvp | Cartography And Circulation General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Morris Comunications Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris Iii President William S. Morris Iv Mvp | Creative Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

Mvp | Technology & Manufacturing Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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hot dates THAILAND

Mar 9-11 Cha-Am International Kite Festival

A Happy Moment

Sarah’s Key

edwardopilopilous

Hundreds of brightly-colored kites will be soaring over King Rama VI Army Camp in Cha Am, Petchaburi about an hour and half drive from Bangkok, as part of one of Thailand’s largest kite events. Now celebrating its 12th year the Cha-Am festival will include a collection of kite exhibitions and kite-flying shows, performed by enthusiasts from around the world, as well as a parachute show, a radio controlled airplane demonstration and plenty of food and handicraft booths.

For more information, go to www.thailandkite.com.

Mar 9-18

Through Mar 31

8th French Film Festival

The 27th ASEAN Barred Ground Dove Festival

Part of the ongoing French cultural festival, La Fête, this year’s Film Festival features a lineup of ten contemporary French movies spread over a week-long period. This year’s event has a particular focus on comedy and humor, with highlights including: Fabrice Luchini in Service Entrance (Les Femmes du 6ème Etage, 2011), the comic story of how the boring life of a conservative man is turned upside down when a group of Spanish maids move in upstairs; Un Heureux Evénement (A Happy Event, 2011), director Remi Bezancon’s (The First Day of the Rest of Your Life) amusing, feel-good portrayal of modern day pregnancy. There are also more serious offerings, such as Elle s’Appelait Sarah (Sarah’s Key), starring Kristin Scott Thomas, which explores the round up of Parisian jews during World War II. Movies are screened in French with English subtitles. Check out the full lineup and ticket prices at http://tinyurl.com/7uea5yp.

Movies screened at SFWorld Cinema, 7/F, CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 02-268-8888.

As in many cultures, doves are seen by Thais as signs of good luck, peace and wealth. As a result they are a fairly popular pet, found in many homes. The annual festival attracts dovelovers from all over Southern Thailand as well as neighboring countries. The highlights of the festival have be the dove-cooing competition and the red-whiskered bulbul singing competition.

You will also be able to find plenty of stalls selling food and locally made products. Khwan Mueang Park, Thanon Thetsaban 1, Mueang Kamphaeng Phet. For more information contact TAT Narathiwat Office on 0 7352 2411 or visit www. tourismthailand.org.

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Through Mar 18 Hua Hin Hills Vineyard Annual Wine Harvest Season Home to the award winning Monsoon Valley Cuvee de Siam, one of Thailand’s leading vineyards is celebrating its annual harvest season by letting you get involved while experience their spectacular hillside setting. Until the middle of this month, visitors can pick fresh ripened grapes direct from the vine, or take a scenic tour on the back of an elephant or jeep. Activities include grape stomping, painting your own wine bottle label and live bands performing every weekend from 12 to 4pm. If that’s not enough, the striking, boat-like Sala Wine Bar and Bistro is offering a special menu including dishes with grape related items as their major ingredients like grape and tuna salad, tenderloin with kra-pao sauce and dark chocolate marquise.

For more information or reservations: 081-7018874/5 or visit www.huahinhillsvineyard.com.

Mar 5

Mar 15-18 and 22-25

Samut Sakhon Seafood Fiesta

Home

Samut Sakhon’s Mahachai district is one of the biggest seafood market’s around and, as the closest to the capital, is very popular with Bangkokians. A great spot to visit any time, the start of this month sees the district holding the Samut Sakhon Seafood Festival. Taking place in front of the city pillar shrine you can expect to see, and try, tasty food cooked from super fresh seafood ingredients by 70 local restaurants. More information at 034-411-208, 034-752-827/8 or tatsmsk@tat.or.th.

After a long spell touring, Thailand’s leading contemporary dancer Pichet Klunchun, who mixes classical Thai khon dance with modern forms, finally finds time to refocus on his dance company through the production of a new solo performance here in Bangkok. Featuring one of his students, Sunon Wachirawarakarn, the piece is called Home and explores the very distinct experience of the place we live when compared to other spaces in our lives. Chang Theatre. 700 Prachauthit Rd. Soi 61, 02-427-2734. 7.30pm, B500. Visit www. pklifework.com for more info.

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Away Days Escape from Bangkok with these four alternative day trips that will have you back in Bangkok in time for supper.

Wat Khuninthapramul, Angthong

CANAL CRUISE Amphawa, Samut Songkram, 79kms/1.5hrs This bustling weekend floating market is popular with locals and offers a chance to go hunting for fireflies down the river.

SEE: Amphawa-Chaipattananurak. This newly finished Royal Project is located on 21 rai of land donated by a local. Passing through the old-shophouse façade, which also acts as an exhibition of traditional culture, you will step into a large open market filled with food and retail stalls. The goods on offer are surprisingly affordable. For more info, go to www.amphawanurak.com DO: Boat trip. Amphawa is famous for two things: the busy market and its fireflies.

While the retro-inspired market is restricted to weekends, you can spot the fireflies all year round, and they really come out in hordes during the upcoming rainy season (May-Oct). A one-hour cruise between 6-9pm costs B60 per person or B600 for a whole boat and can normally be booked through your hotel, if you don’t fancy haggling.

Amphawa

EAT: One of the biggest draws is the delicious traditional Thai dishes like the steamed vermicelli and prawns (B60), which can be found at the stall at the foot of the main bridge. For drinks, do try Samarn Karnka’s (034-751-066/820. Open daily 9am-8pm) ice tea or go for the authentic coffee, tea and local snacks at Chanchala’s (located at the Royal Project). Bann Thong Boran (086-326-7087 , 082-349-5315.

Open Friday 4-10.30pm, Sat-Sun noon10.30pm.), set in front of AmphawaChaipattananurak, is famous for its desserts and the folk music sung by the middle-aged owner daily from 4-10.30pm.

SHOP: The real focus is on sweet treats made from sugar palm and coconut. There’s plenty of dried seafood on offer, but if you’re looking for gifts to bring home, then you might be better off sticking to the cute handicraft items. Finally, Samarn Karnka’s coffee beans have a very original taste.

GETTING THERE: Head out of Bangkok on Rama 2 Rd. and turn left to Samut Songkram Town at the 64th km. Take the main road No.325 until you reach Amphawa. You can park at Amphawan Temple and walk from there.

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WATER, WATER EVERYWHERE Muak Lek, Saraburi, 120kms/2hrs Get a taste of the Thai countryside at this scenic natural spot.

SEE: It has to be the scenic beauty of Pasak Chonlasit Dam. About 40 minutes from Muak Lek Town, this vast expanse of water is a major tourist attraction and a Royal Project. As well as admiring this marvel of engineering, you can also gain some merit by feeding the fish in the lake.

wines like Root Perlet and Cabernet Frank.

Try Vin de Ray (199/2 Moo 7, Muaklek, 036227-178. Open Mon-Sun 7:30am-5pm), where you’ll find red and white varieties, plus a selection of fruity flavors (B300 a bottle).

SHOP: Saraburi Province is particularly well known for its curry puffs. Get yourself a box

(B35) stuffed with chicken or taro.

GETTING THERE: Take Highway 1 out of Bangkok and continue straight onto Mittraphap Road for 35 km. Exit onto Highway 2089 for 1.7km until you reach a big sign that reads Muaklek. Make a left into the town center.

DO: Muak Lek is a great spot to get in touch with nature by taking a dip in a waterfall. In fact, there are two within 15 minutes of each other, Chet Sao Noi Waterfall and Mua Lek Waterfall, which you can reach by walking through a garden full of tropical plants. The fall itself is two-tiered and has a few spots where you can leap into the cool water. To prevent accidents, check with locals where these are.

EAT: If you can’t get enough water, then the Khrua Naam Tok (Waterfall Kitchen, 086-131-0311. Open daily 10.30am9.30pm) is surrounded by babbling brooks.

They offer a good selection of delicious Thai dishes like the sirloin steak jim jaew (B140). To wash down your meal, pick one out of the handful of vineyards that can be found in Saraburi for some homegrown

Concierge Pick Veera Jindareung, Chief Concierge, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, A Luxury Collection Hotel Ayutthaya Turn back time to 650 years ago at Thailand’s old capital. When in Ayutthaya, try the grilled river prawns at Baan Warachai (9 Moo 7, Tumbon Baanpom, 035-801-334-3) as well as the roti saimai (roti with sugarcane candy floss). To buy souvenirs, such as folk textiles and crafts, head to Bangsai Art & Handcraft Center (59 Moo 4 Chang Yai, Bangsai, 035-366-252).

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pb Valley

VINTAGE VOYAGE Khao Yai, Nakorn Ratchasima, 259kms/2.5hrs The area around the beautiful national park is a popular country retreat for Bangkokians.

SEE: Enjoy the natural surroundings while sampling a local wine. Start your tour at the sprawling estate of Granmonte Family Vineyard (52 Moo 9, Phayayen, Pakchong, 036-227-334/5. www.granmonte.com), where you can escape the heat under one of the salas, relax by the pond, stroll the vineyards or enjoy the braised veal shank in red wine at their restaurant VinCotto (Open daily 11am-8pm). They have their annual harvest in February and a wine festival in October. Meanwhile, the neighboring PB Valley Khao Yai Winery (102 Moo 5, Phaya Yen, Pakchong, 036-226-415/6. www. khaoyaiwinery.com) has a daily winery tour at B700 per person. This includes a guided tour of the vineyard, a harvest demo, a wine tasting and a set lunch, with a glass of wine, of course.

DO: While the parents might enjoy the wine tour, the kids will certainly prefer a farm visit at Farm Chok Chai (Moo 2, KM.159-160, Friendship Highway, Pakchong, 044328-485. www.farmchokchai.com). The two-and-a-half-hour tour (B250) around the working farm lets you watch sheepdogs rounding up the flock, try your hand at milking cows, learn how make fresh-milk ice cream and enjoy the cowboy show.

EAT: Still hungry? Primo Posto del Khao Yai (084-035-8554. Open Fri-Sat 9am-9pm, Thu and Sun 9am-6pm. www.primo-posto. net) looks to bring a touch of Tuscany to the valleys of Khao Yai. This vibrant, multihued villa is worth the trip just for the view alone, but it also offers aromatic coffee and delicious Italian dishes. It costs B55 to get in, but you can use the coupon to go towards food and drinks inside.

SHOP: At Granmonte’s shop, Montino, you can take home some grape juice, jams, salad dressings and some wine. We like the 2008 Fiori Unwooded Chenin Blanc (B700).

Or how about some yogurt? Dairy Home

(Mitraphap Rd., Muaklek, 044-322-228.

Open daily Mon-Thu 8.00am-7.30pm, FriSun 8am-8pm, www.dairyhome.co.th) sells yummy yogurt to-go, the plain is great but the must-tries are blueberry and strawberry.

GETTING THERE: Take Highway 1 to Saraburi then turn onto Highway 2 (Mittraphap Road) for the drive to PakchongNakorn Ratchasima.

Concierge Pick Atiphol Soonthornsingh, Chief Concierge, The St. Regis Bangkok Amphawa Floating Market If you wish to visit a local floating market, then Amphawa is where you can enjoy a taste of local food such as shrimp paste sauce with vegetables and fried fish, as well as lots of traditional desserts.

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feature Authentic Culture Angthong, 105kms/2hrs Just north of the old capital Ayutthaya, Angthong is both charming and authentic.

Get lucky at its monumental sacred sites or just enjoy the small-town life.

SEE: Angthong’s tourism board just rolled out a day-trip to three monumental Buddha statues with the catchphrase “Big, Long and Strong.” Big refers to Wat Muang, where you’ll find one of the world’s biggest Buddha statues, called Luang Por. It took 16 years and B106 million to build this 95m high golden statue, which is believed to bring you luck in work and business. The temple also has a beautiful but spooky sculpture garden, where you can learn all about heaven, hell and karma. Wat Khuninthapramul meanwhile is home to a 50-meter long reclining Buddha, who draws worshippers seeking long lives.

The compound is lovely and the architecture can be traced back to the Sukhothai era. The last stop is Wat Chantarangsi, where you’ll find the golden Luang Por Sod statue built to praise a famous monk. The name of the statue “Sod,” means “fresh” and “young,” so is meant to be good for your health. Get more info from www.tourismthailand.org DO: Angthong is best known for its arts and crafts. Start your day with a bang at Ban Pae

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Concierge Pick in the Ekkaraj district (Open daily 7am-4pm, 086-131-9114), dubbed the “drum maker village” for almost a hundred years. Watch the process of making Thai traditional drums and get a look at the world’s longest long drum (7.6 meters long) in the village.

Another option is Ban Bang Sadet Court Doll Center in the Pamoke district (Open daily 9am-4pm, 081-255-5654), where you can see the finely-crafted dolls. The center began as a project of HM the Queen in 1976.

EATS: Save room for spicy and authentic Thai dishes at Niramit (39/3 Moo 7, Sanchao Rongthor sub district, Wiset Chai Chan district, 035-631-052, 081-852-4777.

Open daily Mon-Fri 9am-5.30pm, SatSun 9am-8pm). This riverside restaurant serves a host of tasty fish dishes, like shoo shee planuea-on (whisker sheatfish with curry paste) or pla kang pad cha (spicy fried catfish), or go for traditional a la carte items, like pad thai, Niramit fried chicken and tom yum goong. They’re renowned for their desserts, too, such as the kesorn lamjiak (flour sheet stuffed with sweet coconut), a famous Angthong treat. They offer cooking classes, if you want to make your own.

SHOP: Head to Anek Farm Floating Market (57/2 Moo 2, Pa Ngew, open daily

Wat Muang

Tippawan Yewrakngam, Assistant Chief Concierge, Conrad Hotel Bangkok Ayutthaya Not only a beautiful historical city, Ayutthaya has a lot of activities, such as taking a long tail boats, visiting elephant camps and the Bang Pa In Summer Palace. Don’t forget to try boat noodles in front of the TOT building, fresh river prawns at Phrae Rim and roti saimai opposite Ayutthaya Hospital. Take home pla tapian (woven carp made from dried palm leaf) as a souvenir.

10am-5pm. 081-191-4449, 081-6525666). Though the 2011 floods damaged this purpose-built floating market, it’s now reopened. The floating houses surrounding the pond have various food and souvenir stalls and there are plays at weekend.

Getting there: Drive out of Bangkok via Phaholyothin Road, then take highway no.32 all the way to Angthong.

Anek Farm floating market

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AROUND THAILAND

Hua Hin Hot Tables The royal resort town’s newest restaurants.

By Top Koaysomboon Living Room Bistro and Wine Bar

About a three-hour drive from Bangkok on the western coast of the Gulf of Thailand, Hua Hin has long been a popular beach-side playground for weekending Bangkokians.

As well as offering wide sandy beaches, regal palaces, great golf and kite surfing, the big draw of this royal resort town is the great choice of eateries. With summer on its way, we headed down there to discover a host of new arrivals that maintains Hua Hin’s reputation as a foodie haven.

Living Room Bistro and Wine Bar

Le Chapon

THE SEA MARKET

The latest addition to Hua Hin’s gastronomic scene, the Living Room certainly benefits from a striking location.

A pure white, 50s-style wooden beach house sits overlooking a peaceful stretch of sand, and offers a choice of alfresco dining options from formal dining tables to white benches and comfy bean bags.

The menu is divided into three parts: Thai, international and old-school fusion dishes, which have actually been adapted from the recipes of the previous owner of this former resort home. That means simple dishes like the two-flavor pasta (B260) and crab meat and mayo sandwich (B160).

Thanks to their commitment to fresh ingredients, this is already known as one of the best spots in town and has a decent selection of wines, as well. Adjacent to the restaurant is a small coffee shop, and the

place also opens for breakfast, if you fancy French toast with a picturesque sea view.

3 Soi Hua Hin 51, Damrongrat Rd., Hua Hin, 032-530-485. Open daily 8am10pm.

The Sea Market Hua Hin is all about seafood, with the town’s fleet heading out daily to catch squid and other super-fresh treats from the Gulf. The Sea Market looks to play on that by offering a space to come and browse the catch of the day and then get them to cook it according to your preferences. The vibe is very laid-back, with fish nets and the bright colors helping to give the place a slightly Mediterranean-feel; plus the prices are very reasonable when compared with other seafood restaurants in the area.

123/54 Mooban Takiab, Hua Hin, 032527-633. Open Tue-Sun 9am-6pm.

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Around thailand Le Chapon Hidden away inside boutique resort The Hen, Le Chapon’s black-and-white motif gives it a fashionable French café vibe.

The food is a combination of French and international dishes with a specific focus on fresh seafood. But what we really recommend checking out is their afternoon high tea (from B1,399). Your choice of tea (we recommend Scent of Cashmere from the Czech Republic) is served with a selection of snacks and pastries. A pleasant way to spend an afternoon by the sea.

31 Diskul House, Naed Khehat Rd., 032531-331, 083-888-4477. Open Thu-Tue 11am-9pm.

Baan Tua Yen OK, we admit that Baan Tua Yen is not brand new; but it only moved to its new location about a year ago. The name

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means “house of chilled beans” in Thai, and not surprisingly they specialize in desserts that feature sweetened, chilled red beans. Still, those without a sweet tooth can also enjoy a range of Thai easydish selections, like their moreish khao pad krapao (steamed rice with spicy stir-fried pork, chicken or shrimp with basil). This place is definitely cheap and cheerful, so don’t expect fine dining décor.

10 Naeb Khahat Rd., Hua Hin, 086-1615598. Open daily 7am-10pm.

La Birra La Birra is the town’s newest alfresco bistro and benefits from a position that’s close to the popular retro-inspired Cicada weekend craft market. The L-shapedeatery offers you a choice to dine outside under the stars on their lawn or inside among the New York loft-style decor.

Birra means beer in Italian, and they offer rare imported beers (B180-260/bottle)

la Birra

and a simple selection of pasta and salad options. There’s a particular focus on brews from Belgium and Germany with our personal favorite being the Floris from Belgium (B220/bottle), which tastes and smells like bitter chocolate.

155/7 Hua Hin Rd., 084-567-6989.

Open daily 2pm-midnight.

Seafood Favorites Old time venues you shouldn’t miss: Platoo A fish lovers’ heaven, Platoo, (the Thai for mackerel), whips up fish dishes from salt-coated grilled sea bass to deep-fried grouper with three-flavored sauce. But it’s the platoo that’s the real highlight.

241/44 Ruamchit Rd., 032-451-355, 032508-175. Open daily 10am-10pm. www. platoorestaurant.com Madame Green Jae Keao Hidden on a tiny road on the way to Khao Takiab, this Hua Hin institution has been a favorite for decades. Go for the simple deep-fried sea bass with fish sauce and oyster omelet.

42 Moo Baan Khao Takiab, 032-536899/6900. Open daily 10am-10pm You Yen Situated in a pale-green colonial mansion with a beautiful beach-side garden, You Yen oozes nostalgic charm. Recommendations include stir-fried crab meat with curry sauce, sweet and sour squid soup and the deep-fried sea bass with lemongrass salad.

51 Naebkaehat Rd., 032-531-191. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.youyen.com

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North+ Northeast New hotels, special events and great promos from Chiang Mai and beyond Royal Flora Ratchapruek

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137 Pillars House

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Golfers should come out swinging with this deal. The new luxury boutique hotel 137 Pillars House in Chiang Mai’s historic neighborhood, close to the ancient Wat Gate Temple, is offering a two-night stay in its Rajah Brooke Suite with daily breakfast, roundtrip airport transfers, two rounds of 18 holes at the Royal Chiang Mai Golf Course, including green fees, golf cart and caddie fee, roundtrip transfers between hotel and golf

course, a high-tea set and a 60-minute muscle-soothing Thai massage. Rates are B23,880 for single occupancy and B32,180 for double occupancy, applicable through Apr 30.

2 Na Wat Gate Road Soi 1, Wat Gate, Muang, Chiang Mai, 053-247-788, 081553-4871. www.137pillarshouse.com

The month of March is the last chance to experience the floral beauties of Southeast Asia’s largest horticultural exposition, the Royal Flora Ratchapruek, which has been blooming since December but will end on Mar 14. The festival celebrates the 84th birthday of HM King Bhumibol and HM the Queen’s 80th birthday with displays of millions of winter flowers as well as a variety of international gardens from more than 50 countries. A one-day ticket is B200 and can be purchased at the gate or through www.thaiticketmajor.com. More information at www.royalflora2011.com.

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a hundred visions and revisions

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Muay Thai

Slee Banyan Restaurant

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The silk from Isaan, Thailand’s northeast, has a centuries old tradition of vibrant colors and unique techniques that form its instantly recognizable patterns.

Continuing and celebrating this tradition, Kalasin province is hosting its largest cultural event, and one of Isaan’s largest annual silk festivals. The Kalasin Prae Wa Silk Festival, will feature exhibitions, contests and, of course, plenty of opportunities to buy hand-made Prae Wa silk products, a sophisticated handthreaded silk that’s often used for more formal attire.

Rim Pao Hotel through Mar 7. More information at 043-244-498/9, tatkhkn@tat.or.th.

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We’ve just discovered a new way to spend our Sundays in Chiang Mai. The new Slee Banyan Restaurant tucked away in Siripanna Villa Resort & Spa’s lush grounds, is hosting a Sunday brunch buffet with a vast selection of Western and Asian dishes. Apart from the peaceful garden, decked out with Northern artifacts, we like the multiple free-flow options: B200 gets you freeflow soft drinks, B600 gets you free-flow Chilean house wines and B900 gets you free-flow Australian house wines Every Sunday, noon-3pm. B599 (with drinking water). 50% discount for children.

Siripanna Villa Resort, 36 Rat Uthit Rd., Wat Gate, Chiang Mai, 053-371-999. www.siripanna.com.

Silk Weaving

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Thailand is the birthplace of one of the world’s most popular martial arts, Thai boxing (muay Thai). In the ancient city of Ayutthaya (an hour north of Bangkok by car) and in Bangkok, the 8th International Thai Martial Arts Festival and Congress, Mar 17-24, celebrates Nai Khanom Tom Day, a day to commemorate the man who invented this traditional sport. The week-long festival has the country’s largest wai kru (a ceremony paying homage to teachers), several Thai boxing matches as well as other Thai martial arts showcases.

See the entire program at www. muaythaifestival.com.

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ESCAPES Latest recipe, Le meridien

Eastern Mail The latest travel-related news from the Gulf of Thailand

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Bayan Tree samui

Akaryn samui

Throughout March, the island of Samui is turning into a foodie heaven as it launches its inaugural Samui Fine Dining Festival.

The month-long event sees the island’s top dining venues come together to offer a variety of special seven-course dinners that combine fresh ingredients with each chef’s unique culinary approach. Sample venues include the panoramic views at the Banyan Tree Samui, the idyllic setting of the Five Islands beachside restaurant and the eclectic ambience of French/Siamese eatery Le Jaroen. Other participating restaurants include Full Moon at Anantara Bophut, Orgasmic, Prego, Red Snapper, Beach Republic, Rock Pool, Renaissance Resort, The Barge, Tree Tops, Twisted Thai, Santiburi, Zazen and Le Meridien.

There is a set price of B2,500 per person for the seven-course dinner at each venue. For full details of the participating restaurants and the individuals menus, go to www.samuifinediningfestival.com.

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Nestled on Samui’s beautiful and wonderfully untouched, Hanuman Bay, sitting between Choengmon and Chaweng beaches, is Samui’s latest boutique resort Akaryn Samui. Blessed with a peaceful location next to a 500-meter long powdery (and pretty much empty) beach, the resort utilizes lots of natural materials in its contemporary design and features 34 spacious suites and 18 villas spread throughout a coconut grove. Apart from the signature Spa IV, the resort features five food outlets, offering everything from tapas to fresh seafood. Rates are from US$245 for a pool suite, US$285 for an ocean view pool suite and US$300 for a pool villa.

Hanuman Beach, Koh Samui.

Reservations at 02-514-8112, rsvn@ akaryn.com, www.akaryn.com

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the sea koh samui

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Valentine’s Day might have been last month, but Silavadee Pool Spa Resort looks to keep the love alive a little while longer with their “Just Two of Us” deal.

The package gets you a two-night stay with breakfast in bed, sparkling wine upon arrival, roundtrip airport transfer, one candlelit dinner on the beach and a spa package, featuring a 30-minute body wrap, 30-minute milk bath and one hour body massage. Rates are B21,000 for a deluxe balcony room, rising to B44,800 for a panoramic ocean pool villa. Price is exclusive of taxes and service charge, and valid through Mar 31.

Koh Samui, Suratthani, 077-960-555, www.silavadeeresort.com

Y Floating Bazaar

Damnoen Saduak district in Ratchaburi (home to Thailand’s most famous and most visited floating market) is hosting the month-long Best of Damnoen Saduak Fair. The event will include colorful boat processions, traditional sports, beauty pageants and even a boat noodle eating competition. Visitors

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Damnoen saduak floating market

will also have a chance to shop for agricultural products, especially the abundant different types of fruit grown in this region, as well as browse special displays of local produce, handicrafts and textiles.

More information available at TAT Ratchaburi Office, 032-471-005/6 or visit www.tourismthailand.org.

Y Dual Islands

Overlooking the sea on Bang Po Beach in the north of Samui, The Sea Koh Samui is something an untapped oasis that offers a quiet beach and six villas and 21 suites, featuring a tropical, modern design. Its latest promotion that runs until Mar 31 starts from B5,250, and if you book three consecutive nights here, you’ll also get one complimentary night at the Sawaddi Patong Resort in Phuket.

Reservations must be made through their website to get the deal. If you do go, The Sea is very close to Janhom seafood restaurant (7/3 Bangpor Beach, 077236-458), which we highly recommend.

Bangpor Beach, Koh Samui, 077-960567, www.theseasamui.com

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ESCAPES

phuket international boat show

Casa de la flora

Andaman Announcements

sukko spa

What’s hot in and around Phuket

Y Beach House

Y Natural Retreats

Y The Ocean Waves

Situated on the mainland north of Phuket, Khao Lak in Phang Nga is blessed with one extremely long beach that stretches for kilometers. And one particularly elegant hotel that sits on this beach is Casa de la Flora, a member of Design Hotels (a global group of fashionable hotels). If you’re tempted by one of its 36 villas, the resort has just introduced an “Open House Package” with a daily breakfast, one set dinner for two, one 90-minute sunset cruise on a private yacht and more when you book a villa for three consecutive nights. Villa rates are from B10,525 per night for a studio villa, and the deal is applicable through Apr 15.

67/213 Moo 5, Khao Lak Beach, Takuapa, Phang Nga, 076-428-999. www. casadelaflora.com

Phuket’s renowned Sukko Spa has recently expanded to Ao Nang in Krabi, with the opening of a sister branch at Aonang Nagapura Resort & Spa. The award-winning spa bases its treatments on ancient Thai remedies, and therapists must undergo an 800-hour course to master them. Furthermore, the herbal recipes they use are free of chemicals, synthetic perfumes or artificial colors. For a truly complete relaxation experience, try the 120-minute Sukko Signature body massage (B3,200).

Sukko Spa at Aonang Nagapura, 109 Moo 3, Ao Nang, Krabi, 075-637-180/-3. www.aonangnagapura.com

The end of this month sees one of Southeast Asia’s largest boat shows sail into Phuket. Now in its ninth year, the 2012 Phuket International Boat Show, aka PIMEX, promises to exhibit a greater diversity of boats, yachts and nautical lifestyle products and services from all over the world: China, Australia, Italy, France and many more. The perfect place to pick up that yacht you’ve always dreamed about.

Mar 29-Apr 1. Royal Phuket Marina Bay, Phuket. www.phuketboatshow.com.

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where

the guide

ART

The Upside Down World: As part of the ongoing La Fete, French cultural festival, this exhibition features the work of French sculptor and photographer Phillippe Ramette. Ramette captures himself dressed in a suit in a variety of gravity-defying postures, set against equally unlikely backdrops. Through Apr 29. Bangkok Art and Culture Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm.www.bacc.or.th .

arts + CULTURE..................................... 18-19 dining........................................................20-23 nightlife.........................................................24

health + wellness..................................25 shops + services.................................26-27

navigate.........................................................28 maps............................................................28-32

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Art+Culture BANGKOK

Art Exhibition Highlights

aN ART BOOK EXHIBITION — Take your pick from a selection of the finest art books from the German publisher Taschen, famous for their electic, affordable and well-produced publications. It also features graphic designer TNop’s typography and poster work together with men’s bag accessories by Container.

Through Apr 15. Serindia Gallery, Room 3101, 3201, OP Garden, 4-6 Charoen Krung Soi 36, 02-238-6410. Open Tue-Sun 11am-8pm. www.serindiagallery.com

ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY ­— With a prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-6841527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com ARDEL GALLERY OF MODERN ART ­— This vast 720-square-meter space hosts visual and performing arts events. It also has a café; and runs art workshops and seminars. 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd (Km 10.5), 02422-2092. Open Tue-Sat 10:30am-7pm, Sun 10:30am-5:30pm. www.ardelgallery.com

Pixel Horizon — The highly-distinctive Thai contemporary artist Montri Toemsombat’s latest exhibition uses pixel manipulation techniques to explore the intimate relationship between society and sexuality, and attempts to demonstrate how oppressing even an apparently liberal society can be. Through Apr 8. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-6841527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com

JIM THOMPSON ART CENTER ­— Set above the shop in the grounds of the famous American’s former home, this lofty space puts on excellent temporary exhibitions. 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. www.jimthompsonhouse.com

NOSPACE GALLERY ­— This avante garde art space on the nightlife strip of RCA offers challenging exhibitions and acts as a venue for regular live music events. 21/108 Block D, Royal City Avenue (RCA), 02-641-4040. Open Mon-Tue 11am7pm; Wed-Sun 11-1am. www.nospacebkk.com

KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY ­— A four-floor gallery, which includes a specialty bookstore, focused on promoting the work of up-andcoming local photographers. 87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd., 02-234-6700. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open TueSun 11am-7pm. www.kathmandu-bkk.com

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes.

101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-2815360/1. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. www. queengallery.org

BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTER (BACC) — ­ The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th GOSSIP GALLERY ­— This multifaceted space showcases contemporary pieces from both local and international artists. 3/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-237-5568. BTS Surasak. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. gossipgallerybkk72.com H GALLERY ­— Set in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions representing emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201, Sathorn Soi 12, 081-3104428. BTS Surasak. Open Wed-Mon 10am6pm. www.hgallerybkk.com

YOU ARE NOT ALONE ­— The ArtAids Foundation and the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre present this contemporary art exhibition designed to help promote knowledge and change misconceptions surrounding HIV/ AIDS through the works of sixteen Thai and international artists. Mar 8-Apr 18. BACC, Rama I Rd, Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th

KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY

NATIONAL GALLERY — ­ Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd, 02281-2224, 02-282-2639- 40. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www.national-gallery.go.th

Silom galleria — This large mall hosts a range of modern Asian art under one roof. Highlight galleries include: the large Thai-focused Number 1 Gallery; Tang Contemporary Art, which covers modern Chinese art; and, Thavibu Gallery which features works by Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-2665454. BTS Surasak. The mall is open daily 10am-8pm, though some galleries have different opening times.

SERINDIA GALLERY — Run by a publishing company, this gallery looks to focus on the art and culture of Asia, specifically the Himalayan region. OP Garden, Unit 3101-3201, 4-6 Soi Charoen Krung 36, 02-238-6410. Open TueSun 11am-8pm. www.serindiagallery.com SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — More of a shop than a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai art works. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040. Open daily 9am8pm. www.sombatpermpoongallery.com

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Art+Culture THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC)­— This center is home to a big art library, as well as temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www. tcdc.or.th

siam ocean world — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. Highlights include the long underwater tunnel, the penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour.

Basement, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.,02-6872000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm. B900 for adults, B700 for children.

TOOT YUNG GALLERY — This gallery-cum-barcum-café-cum-book shop aims to provide a platform for local artists. 19 Prachathipratai Rd., 084-914-5499. Open Mon-Sun 2pm-8pm. www.tootyunggallery.com

rattanakosin exhibition hall— Also known as Nitas Rattanakosin, this exhibition center traces the history of Bangkok from the late 18th century to the present day. Don’t miss the stunning view from the rooftop. Ratchadamnoen Rd., 02-621-004. Open Tue-Fri 11am-8pm, SatSun 10am-8pm. B100.

GALLERY VER — Owned by renowned artist Rirkrit Tiravanija, this gallery promotes experimental and conceptual art from local and overseas artists. 194 Tanao Rd., 02-622-0117. Open daily 1-7pm. http://ver.mono.net.

V64 — More than 60 artists from Section 7 at Chatuchak Weekend Market teamed up to transform a three-acre space into a large art center, which features studios, a gallery, an art academy, shop and restaurant. 143/19 Chaengwattana Soi 1 Yak 6, Bhangkhen. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.v64artstudio.com

Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) — One of the city’s best known landmarks is home to a 76-meter-tall prang (Khmer-style tower), decorated by millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means morning and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arun Amarin Rd. Wat Arun Pier.

Wat traimit Wittayaram — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm.

Wat phra kaeo (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) — Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace, this important religious site is home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. You also shouldn’t miss the exquisite mural paintings on the walls surrounding the compound. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. B400.

Maharaj Pier.

V64

WHITESPACE GALLERY — Founded by an American architect and Thai artist Maitree Siriboon, the narrow space at this design studio provides a platform for the works of emerging artists. 2/F, Lido Bldg, 260 Siam Square Soi 3, 02-252-2900. BTS Siam. Open Tue-Fri 1pm7pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am-8pm. www.whitespcegallery.com

attractions funarium — This giant indoor soft play area is a great option for those parents looking for somewhere safe for the kids to blow off steam.

Offering painting, bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas there’s plenty for the kids to do. 111/1 Sukhumvit 26, 02-665-6555. www.funarium. co.th. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 8:30am-8:30pm. B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults for three hours.

Grand palace — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture, as well as Wat Phra Kaeo (see below). Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am3:30pm. Free tours in English available at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm. B400.Maharaj Pier.

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art and antiques of the country. Don’t miss the restored courtyards with their fragrant gardens. Na Phrathat Rd., 02-215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. Admission: B50. www. nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM — Eight of the more than 50 barges that make up the royal processions are displayed here. The must-see is the Suphannahong, or Golden Swan, with its huge, golden figurehead prow. Pinklao Bridge Pier, Thonburi, 02-424-0004. Open daily 9am-5pm.

B30.

SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household once belonged to their Royal Highnesses Prince and Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga. Its eight Thai-style houses showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period. 02-354 Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-246-1775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www. suanpakkad.com VIMANMEK PALACE — With 12 separate museums in the compound, you could easily spend the day here. The site houses the royal museums of photography, clocks, textiles and silk, but the gorgeous teak buildings are the real draw. Strict dresscode (see their website for details). Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300/9. Open daily 9:30am-4pm. B100. www. vimanmek.com

MUSEUMS JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk, Jim Thompson, is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm.B100 for adults, B50 for students and children. www. jimthompsonhouse.com KAMTHIENG HOUSE ­— This 200-year-old Northern Thai Lanna-style wooden house contains a collection of traditional agricultural tools and sits in the grounds of the Siam Society, which also holds regular lectures, seminars and workshops. Siam Society, 131 Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke), 02-661-6470. BTS Asoke. Open TueSat. 9am-5pm. B100 for adults, B50 for children. www.siamsociety.org MUSEUM SIAM ­— The old Ministry of Commerce is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-2252777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm.B300. www. museumsiam.com NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most extraordinary architecture,

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ZUMA

DOWNTOWN

Rd., 02-200-9000 ext. 2499. BTS Sala Daeng.

Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10pm.

celadon — Thai. $$$$ Surrounded by lotus ponds, Celadon’s Thai pavilion contains elegant candlelit interiors that help accentuate the refined set menus, such as the seven-course Bai Horapa set.

13/3 South Sathorn Rd., 02-344-8888. Open daily noon-3pm, 6:30-11pm. www.sukhothai.com.

Eat Me — International. $$$$ The décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic. The kitchen pulls off bold combinations, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng.

Open daily 3pm-1am.

Drinking Tea, Eating rice — Japanese. $$$$ Stylishly simple in design, this earthtoned restaurant allows the food to take center stage. Choose from top-quality sushi, sashimi, teppanyaki and kaiseki options, and wash it down with their extensive sake collection. 87 3/F, The Conrad Hotel, All Seasons Place, Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., 02-690-9999. BTS Phloen Chit.

Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm.

Nahm — Thai. $$$$ Former holder of a Michelin star, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open daily noon-2pm, 7-11pm.

Niu’s — Italian. $$$$ Muted tones, crisp white tablecloths and large windows let the inventive and delicious Italian food take center stage. Niu’s also has an extensive wine list and top-name jazz acts downstairs. 1-2/F, Baan Silom, 661 Silom Rd., 02-266-5333. BTS Surasak. Open daily 5pm-1am.

Ruen Urai — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house, decorated in a blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, it offers a polished menu of solid recipes. Rose Hotel, 188, Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm.

Sra bua — Thai. $$$$ The sister of Michelinstarred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen, offers up Thai food with a contemporary, almost molecular, twist in a soaring palace dotted with rice fields. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02162-9000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-11pm.

drinking tea, eating rice

D’Sens — French. $$$$ The French-imported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers has all the oomph one might expect. The dimly-lit dining room is ultra-chic, and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946, Rama 4

Zanotti — Italian. $$$$ A favorite haunt among power brokers and visitors, Zanotti serves up authentic Piedmontese cuisine made from top ingredients. 1/F, Sala Daeng Colonnade, 21/1 Soi Sala Daeng, 02-636-0002. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6pm-midnight.

Zuma — Japanese. $$$$ Like a Bangkok-L.A. flight with a stopover in Tokyo. Their generous salads mix avocado and fresh sushi. The bar is made from a single, monumental slab of stone and the garden is air conditioned. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-636-0002.

Open Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm.

Water Library — International. $$$-$$$$ The use of steel, glass and grey wood is striking without being cold. There’s a long water menu, and some outstanding dishes. 2/F, Chamchuri Square, Phaya Thai Rd., 02-160-5188/9.

MRT SamYan. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-9:30pm.

Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under B400 B400-700 B700-1,000 B1,000 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Area guide Downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods Lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

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dining THONGLOR/ EKKAMAI 4 Garcons — French. $$$ Cooked by a Thai doctor, this is classic French fare is served in a warm and elegant atmosphere. 1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor 13, 02-713-9547. Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm.

Bonjour — French. $$$$ Fine French dishes are served in a bourgeois villa that boasts velvet lounge chairs and a small tropical garden. 1217/2 Sukhumvit Soi 59, 02-714-2112. BTS Thonglor.

Open daily 6pm-1am.

Fuzio — Italian. $$$$ Classic Italian recipes are mixed with just enough modern touches to suit the locale and clientele. A rooftop location and contemporary décor make for a special experience. 6/F, Mini Showroom, 99/99 Ekkamai Soi 7, 02-711-6999. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6-10:30pm.

Harvey — American, International. $$$$ A very popular spot with the town’s movers and shakers the food encompasses interpretations of American, French and Italian. 129 Thonglor Soi 9, 02-712-9911. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-11pm.

Khun Churn — Thai/Vegetarian. $-$$ This family-run eatery, tucked away in the relatively quiet Bangkok Mediplex, has a classy-yetcasual atmosphere and serves up a menu of down-to-earth yet delicious meat-free Thai meals. G/F, Bangkok Mediplex Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02-713-6599. Open daily 10am-8pm.

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Phuket town — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional and spicy Southern-style dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stirfried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches. Thonglor Soi 6, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm.

Soul Food Mahanakorn — Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of well executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect on the hip crowd and the place is packed most nights. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-7147708. BTS Thonglor. Open daily 6pm-midnight.

Vientiane Kitchen — Lao. $$ Offers a fun dining experience and authentically spicy Thai/Laotian dishes in a quirky, kitsch setting complete with their own house band of musicians and dancers.

8 Sukhumvit Soi 36, 02-258-6171. Open daily noon-midnight.

Xuan mai — Vietnamese. $$$ Probably the best Vietnamese restaurant in Bangkok, this is where former beauty queen-then-FBI agent chef Meyung Robson sources the best ingredients, often direct from Vietnam, and cooks them perfectly from traditional recipes. Try the bahn mo thit (Vietnamese sandwich) and cha ca Hanoi (grilled cat fish). 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-185-2619.

Open Tue-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 11:30am-midnight; Sun 11:30am-10pm.

NEW >

Issaya Siamese Club

After setting up succesful restuarants in New York, Barcelona and Mumbai, Chef Ian Kittichai returns to his home country with this authentic Thai restaurant. Set in a delightful wooden mansion, with its own kitchen garden and a hip bar upstairs, its menu features inventive twists on classic Thai recipes, as well as some signature dishes from his other global eateries. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., Sathorn Rd., 02-6729040-1. Open daily lunch 11:30am–2:30pm, dinner: 6pm-10:30pm, supper: 10:30pm-1am. www.issaya.com

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dining Lower Sukhumvit 11 Gallery — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am.

Boqueria — French/Italian. $$$$ This venue focuses on classic dishes with a Mediterranean leaning. G/F, CRC Tower, All Season Place, 87/2 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., 02-685-3930/1. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:3010:30pm.

Kuppa — International. $$$ Best-known as a lunch venue, Kuppa’s reliable menu of pastas, salads, desserts and great coffee has changed little over the years. Throw in comfy couches and floor-toceiling windows, and you’ve got one chill spot. 39 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-663-0495, 02-663-8806.

Open daily 10am-10:30pm.

Le Beaulieu — French. $$$$ The venue itself, with its cathedral-like foyer/bar and intimate sky blue-ceilinged dining room, is small but grand.

The menu is similarly ambitious, featuring four pages of wonderfully-tasting French dishes. Asoke Residence Grand Mercure Building, 50 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-204-2004. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

Medici — Italian. $$$$ Tuscan-born chef Francesco Lenzi whips up his hometown’s specialties surrounded by a neo-industrial interior that is reminiscent of 1910 Chicago. Hotel Muse, 55/555 Langsuan Rd., 02-630-4006. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm. 6pm-midnight.

ROSAbieng — Thai. $-$$ This two-story wooden house-turned-restaurant is a great place for those seeking an introduction to Thai food, thanks to its broad menu of properly executed standard dishes.

3 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-253-5868. BTS Nana.

Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm.

boqueria

an eye for tradition and bold flavors. 3/F, Plaza Athénée, 61 Witthayu(Wireless) Rd., 02-6508800. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm.

Reflexions — French. $$$$ Elegant but edgy, with its raw black-and-white photographs of Bangkok, Reflexions is authentic French food without the stuffiness. Chef Thibault Chiumenti cooks with

REFLEXIONS

Seafood Bar — Seafood. $$$ Owned by an oyster importer, this restaurant features 20 types of oysters and a range of perfectly grilled fish dishes cooked with a modern American approach.

Somerset Lake Place, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02663-8863, Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun noon-3pm, 6-10pm. BTS Asok.

Snapper — Seafood. $$ This laidback and minimally-nautical restaurant with its picnic style benches and tables, specializes in sustainably fished New Zealand seafood and interesting fish and chips. 1/22 Sukhumvit Soi 11, BTS Nana. 02 651-1098. Open Tue-Sun, 5pm-midnight.

Erawan tea room — ­ Thai. $$$$ With a classy oriental décor, five-star service and a fine tea selection, Erawan Tea Room also impresses with its authentic Thai dishes and monthly-themed menus. 2/F, Erawan Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02254-1234. Open daily 10am-10pm.

Gianni Ristorante — Italian. $$$$ “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, has earned its following with consistently outstanding food, an elegant atmosphere and smooth service. 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-252-1619, 02-652-2922. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm.

Gaggan ­— Indian. $$$$ After a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02652-1700. BTS Chit Lom. 6pm-midnight.

Grossi TrattoriA ­— Italian. $$$$ Backed by celeb-Australian chef Guy Grossi, it maintains its focus on earthy cuisine. This is no hotel restaurant—thanks to its bistro-vibe and soaring ceilings. G/F, Intercontinental Hotel, 973 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-0444. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 6:30-10:45pm.

La Monita Taqueria ­— Mexican. $$ Handsdown the best place for a quesadilla or fish taco.

The décor and service aren’t much, but you won’t care after your third reposado margarita. Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloenchit Rd., 02-650-9581. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-10pm.

Shintaro — ­ Japanese. $$$ Located in a corner of the high-end hotel, this cozy restaurant draws the glam crowd. The food is equally trendy, with dishes like sushi-pizza and California rolls.

G/F, Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-251-6127. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5-10:30pm.

Street wise >

Yaowarat

Due to a large immigrant population, Chinese culture has permeated Thailand in many ways, with cuisine being one of our favorites. The best place to enjoy Chinese and Thai-Chinese food in Bangkok is, of course, in Chinatown, better known locally as Yaowarat. It’s also the name of the major road running through this commercial hub, famous for its gold trade in particular. But when night falls, the entire street becomes a haven for foodies, whether it’s for the gourmet Chinese restaurants or the lines of ThaiChinese street food stalls offering so many choices you won’t even know where to start. Here are some pointers. For typical Chinese restaurants, hop onto Padsai Road where you’ll find old favorites like Yim Yim (02-224-2205), New Kwang Meng (02-224-2201) and Tang jai Yoo (02-224-2167). For seafood, look out for two outdoor eateries facing each other at the intersection of Soi Texas, one with waiters wearing red and one with waiters wearing green: both are good and cheap. For desserts, tao tueng (Chinese-style sweets with longan juice and ice, opposite White Orchid Hotel) remains our favorite way to finish a taste trek in Yaowarat. From MRT Hua Lamphong station, you can hop in a taxi (5 mins) or walk (15 mins) to Yaowarat Road. Most restaurants open daily from around 11am to 10pm but street stalls usual open from 5pm until around 1am.

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dining Upper Sukhumvit

Riverside

Bacco ­— Italian. $$$ This relaxed, slightly rustic eatery packs in the diners nightly, thanks to its extensive menu of authentic regional specialties.

35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-662-4538. BTS Thonglor. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pmmidnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-midnight.

the deck ­— Thai/International. $$$ Few places can boast a spectacle quite as inspiring as the iconic Wat Arun directly across the river from The Deck. Book in advance for one of the best spots, out on the 2nd floor terrace. The well-executed menu covers Thai and European dishes. Arun Residence, 36-38 Soi Pratu Nokyung, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158. Open Mon-Thu 7am-10pm, Fri-Sun 7am-11pm.

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Venice Vaniche — ­ Thai. $$$ Sat meters from the Grand Palace, this restuarant offers some great views, a pleasant breezy terrace on the second floor and a large menu of classic Thai dishes. 1/12 Soi Maharaj, Maharaj Rd., 02-222-8082. Open daily 11am-midnight.

Le Normandie ­— French. $$$$ The Mandarin Oriental’s showcase restaurant has set the standard for service and cuisine for years­­—and the breahtaking river views aren’t bad. The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-6599000. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm; daily 7-10:30pm.

BACCO

Bo.Lan — ­ Thai. $$$ Chefs Bo and Dylan offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a stylish house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes seasonally. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962.

Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pm- midnight.

ISao ­— Japanese. $$$-$$$$ Despite the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something different— Japanese cuisine with distinctly American twists, thanks to the chef’s apprenticeship at the Green Tea sushi bar in Chicago. 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645/6. Open Mon-Fri 11am2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm.

ISAO

Indus ­— Indian. $$$ An ambient spot with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279.

Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm.

Curries and More by Baan Kanitha ­— Thai. $$$-$$$$ Choose from the hip wine bar or the beautiful cream-colored house to enjoy dishes that range from traditional favorites to fusion offerings. 31 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-2598530-5. BTS Thonglor. Open daily 11am-11pm.

Ma du zi Restaurant by Yuyai — ­ Japanese. $$$ With a stint at a Joel Robuchon restaurant in Tokyo, Japanese Chef Yuya Okuda’s food is very recognizably French, only with very light, very subtle exotic touches. Maduzi Hotel, 9/1 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-615-6400. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm.

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nightlife BANGKOK

q bar

Downtown Bed Supperclub — Bangkok’s leading club, with a space-age interior, is divided into two sides—the restaurant, which offers creative food and cutting-edge performances; and the club, where beautiful people dance to everything from house to drum n’ bass. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. Open daily 7pm-2am. www. bedsupperclub.com Hyde & Seek — Elevated pub grub, arguably Bangkok’s best cocktail menu and a décor that conjures up both Victorian drawing room gravitas and NYC sophistication—it’s no wonder this place is so popular. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-168-5152-3. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. kacho — Situated on the 37th floor, this bar has a rural Japanese village theme but is dominated by large, suede sofas that flank a huge glass wall serving up panoramic views of Bangkok. They also play host to popular bi-monthly parties on their outdoor rooftop area. 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-261-9000. Open daily 6pm-2am.

Oskar — A comforting menu, a long list of drinks and a great DJ mean this bistro, in the heart of club land, has fast become a popular spot for preclub drinks. 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255 3377.

Open daily 6-11pm.

Q Bar — The Soi 11 institution continues to deliver a heady mix of bass lines and international DJs. Its large outdoor patio is a great spot to kick back with friends, while the downstairs level, featuring a serious dance floor and three bars, is perfect for serious beat and booze addicts. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274. Open daily 8pm-1am.

The St Regis Bar — With a great New York Mad Men vibe and impressive views, this spot also boasts a daily Champagne sabrage and their Thai take on the Bloody Mary. 12/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777.

BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily noon-1pm. www. stregis.com.

Viva & Aviv — Fitting for its riverside location, this new venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nauticallyinspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive and well-made cocktails and pub grub.

River City Complex, Yota Rd., 02-639-6305.

Open daily 11am-midnight. www.vivaaviv.com

Wine Republic — They take their vino seriously here, with a wall of bottles and informed staff to talk you through your purchase. The dark spit-and-sawdust interior and breezy outdoor terrace get very busy on weekends. Thonglor Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7599. Open daily 5:30pm-1am.

ThongLor/Ekkamai

WTF — A collaboration between an art curator, a hip hotelier and a photojournalist, WTF is actually a hybrid bar and exhibtion space that’s proving incredibly popular with Bangkok’s creative expats and local hipsters. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-6626246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am.

Clouds — The futuristic vision is certainly striking— from the undulating ceiling, sporting anything from roses to Barbie dolls, to the acrylic seating inset with leaves. Potent cocktails from the laboratory of a bar add to the techno-ecoinspired theme. G/F, Seenspace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2365. Open daily 6pm-2am.

Fat Gut’z Saloon — Sitting on the corner of a small lifestyle mall, this hole-in-the-wall reminds us of a New Orleans speakeasy, with its dark panelled walls and matching furniture.

A blues-fuelled band, interesting cocktails and fish n’ chips are the house specials. 1/F, Grass Thonglor, 264 Thonglor Soi 12, 02-714-9832.

BTS Thonglor. Open daily 6pm-2am.

Iron Fairies — Like no other bar in Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling, blackened brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies. A great live band and powerful cocktails make this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 084-520-2301. BTS Thonglor. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am.

Mellow — Another popular spot for dining and drinking, Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, well-off locals. They’re attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and delicious cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am.

New >

Scarlett Wine Bar and Restaurant It seems that rooftop spots are making a comeback in Bangkok, and the latest arrival is this recently renovated and reopened space on the top of the Sofitel Silom. While it still retains its excellent selection of wines, the new focus on classic tapas dishes and a much more laidback atmosphere are welcome changes. As is the addition of a verdant outdoor terrace, which allows you to enjoy your Chardonnay alfresco while enjoying the impressive views. Sofitel Silom Bangkok, 188 Silom Rd., 02-238-1991.

BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 6pm-1am.

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HEALTH + WELLNESS THAILAND traditional thai massage

Wat Po

SPA BODY TUNE — The “menu” here is short, sweet and to the point: foot reflexology, hand, Thai and oil massage. But what they do, they do well.

We prefer the quieter Silom branch. 56 Yada Bldg., 2/F, Silom Rd., 02-238-4377. BTS Sala Daeng. Sukhumvit branch: 49 Sahai Place Bldg., Sukhumvit 24, 02-661-0077. BTS Phrom Phong.

Open daily 10am-midnight. www.bodytune.co.th I.SAWAN — With its Tony Chi design, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club and its residential cottages and treatment bungalows is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a fitness club, tennis and squash courts and a 25-meter pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am-11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com

A major tourist attraction, Wat Po is just as as famous for its massage school as it is for its 46-meter-long Reclining Buddha. Never mind that there’s usually a long wait and little privacy once you’re inside: massage treatments at this traditional Thai massage school never ceases to attract those who want the real deal. Wat Po’s history as a center for Thai massage dates back to 1843, when King Rama III commissioned 60 diagrams depicting various massage techniques to be inscribed on the temple’s marble walls. If you feel inspired to learn the art yourself, enroll in the temple’s training classes. Wat Po (Wat Prachetuphon), 2 Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon, 02-225-4771. Open daily 8am-6pm. www.watpomassage.com LET’S RELAX — With branches in tourist destinations around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained massueses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-6626935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www.letsrelaxspa.com MULBERRY SPA — Set in a 60s-style residential compound, Mulberry Spa offers all the usual selection of treatments amid a classy-yet-cozy ambiance. 132 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1888.

MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am-11pm. Silom branch: 346/8-10 Silom Rd., 02-630-9888.

BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 10am-10pm. www. mulberryspa.com THE ORIENTAL SPA — As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa, offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge range of variety treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. www. mandarinoriental.com/bangkok/spa PaNPURI ORGANIC SPA — Hidden behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of the high-end spa.

The small-but-beautiful space welcomes you with black stone and gold mosaics and a host of treatments using exclusive organic products.

Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-6561199. Open daily 10-8pm. www.panpuri.com

i.sawan

S MEDICAL SPA — Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, the award-winning spa creates real beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs. 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Rd., 02-253-1010. BTS Ploenchit.

Open daily 10am-9pm. www.smedspa.com

ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is a first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the ancient Arabian sauna in their Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-2077777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.stregis.com/bangkok HEALTH LAND — Health Land has built its sizeable reputation on a blend of affordable prices and expert masseuses. There are branches throughout town. 120 North Sathorn Rd. , 02637-8883. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 9am11pm. More branches: www.healthlandspa.com

S MEDICAL SPA

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SPA@tonson — This resort style spa includes nine treatment rooms and utilizes ancient Asian healing techniques. The highlight has to be the special four-hand massage. 5/F, Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-6587980. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-9pm. www.spatonson.com SPA BOTANICA — Surrounded by the lush gardens of the Sukothai Hotel, Spa Botanica is an urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best of oriental massage options. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd, 02-2344-8900.

Open daily 9am-10pm. www.sukhothai.com THANN SANCTUARY SPA — THANN Sanctuary offers a variety of treatments based on THANN world class spa products within a tranquil space bathed in warm grey and soothing lights. 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10-9pm. www.thann.info TRIA — Tria is not just a spa: this sanctuary hidden behind Piyavate Hospital is a rejuvenation center offering integrated programs. With more than 50 treatment rooms, there are also hydrotherapy pools, a restaurant and residences for long-term treatments. 998 Ronkhlongsamsen Rd., 02-6602602. Open Mon-Fri 7-10am. Closes Sat 9pm, Sun 8:30pm. www.triaintegrativewellness.com URBAN RETREAT — Urban Retreat’s branches offer relaxing havens from the city in the middle of town. 31/10 Soi Phromjai, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-204-2008/9. Open daily 10am-10pm. More branches: www.urbanretreatspa.net

AESTHETIC CLINICS APEX SKIN CENTER — Check out this well established and popular skin center for stateof-the-art treatments such as face lifts, Botox, collagen injections and micro-dermabrasion.

Other treatments include permanent laser hair and tattoo removal. 3/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, BTS Phrom Phong. 02-6448613/-4. Open daily 10am-9pm. More branches: www.apexskincenter.com PUTTHARAKSA — From non-invasive face lifts to the derma roller regeneration treatment their aesthetic care is all about helping your body heal itself. If you can’t trust it to do it alone get further support through their antiaging treatments like Botox and the high tech stem cell infusion therapy. 1535 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-6336. BTS Phra Khanong. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-9pm, Sun noon- 6pm. www.puttharaksaclinic.com ROMRAWIN — The popular beauty clinic has now expanded to over 20 branches in Bangkok alone.

They cover everything from body treatments and weight-loss programs, to hair removal and acne cures, all using state of the art equipment, treatments and products. 4/F, Chidlom Tower, 22 Chidlom Tower, Soi Somkid, Ploenchit Rd., 02-655-7625. Open daily 10am-9pm. More branches: www.romrawin.com SIAM SWAN COSMETIC CLINIC — One of the best-known local beauty clinics in Thailand, it offers almost every kind of beauty surgery, with laser, thermage, face lifting, liposuction, Botox and more available. 190-192 Siam Square Soi 1, Rama 1 Rd., BTS Siam. 02-658-4884/-6. Open Mon-Sat 10am- 7pm. www.siamswan.com

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ShopS+Services BANGKOK

Terminal 21

Pantip Plaza ­— A heaven for tech and IT lovers, the rather grungy-looking seven floors are dedicated to gadgets and gizmos. You’ll find countless little stalls selling computers, laptops, mobile phones, printers, mainboards, cameras, electronic appliances and selections of bootleg DVDs. Not all of it is legitimate, but most items are usually a lot cheaper than elsewhere. 604/3 Petchaburi Rd., 02-250-1555. BTS Ratchathewi. www.pantipplaza.com

Downtown Amarin Plaza ­— The Greco-Roman facade of this mall actually hides some unexpected gems. ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local fashion designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs. 496-502 Ploenchit Rd., 02-6504704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com Central Chidlom — ­ The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrod’s, Central Chidlom, first opened in 1973 and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. All eight floors are packed with leading brands, like Bottega Venetta, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the impressive Food Hall on the ground floor and the views from the international food court, Food Loft, up on the seventh. 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th CentralWorld ­— Southeast Asia’s largest lifestyle shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000 sq meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites like Singha Life and Disaya.

Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www. centralworld.co.th Erawan Bangkok — ­ This mini-mall might look petite, but its three floors offer some high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including unique Club 21 stores, like Yohji Yamamoto, Dior Homme and Lanvin. 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com

Gaysorn

Gaysorn ­— Thailand’s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Celine) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disara, Cloud 9, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02656-1149. BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com MBK Center — ­ Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, perfumes, cameras, watches, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and all at bargain prices. As a result,­the confusing chaos of MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good. Still it’s fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000.

BTS National Stadium. www.mbk-center.co.th

Platinum Fashion Mall ­— Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashionrelated from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even single items are very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. BTS Ratchathewi. www. platinumfashionmall.com Siam Center ­— One of the longest-standing shopping malls in Bangkok, it remains a favorite with teen shoppers, thanks to a recent facelift and the cool, cutting-edge local brands that call it home. Siam on Third (3/F) features established Thai fashion designers, while Mob.F (4/F) lets the new wave showcase their work. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamcenter.co.th Siam Paragon ­— With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like Mango and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a cinema. As well as lots of restaurants, there’s also a food court in the basement. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www. siamparagon.co.th

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ShopS+Services Siam Discovery Center ­— The sister mall of Siam Center just celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussuad’s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamdiscoverycenter.co.th

Sukhumvit The Emporium ­— Set in the heart of the city’s upscale residential area (home to Bangkok’s largest Japanese community), The Emporium offers luxury shopping without the crowds, thanks to their tenant portfolio, which includes brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Prada, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal, Thann and Jim Thompson. There are also lot of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative Design Center. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www.emporiumthailand.com

MARKETS Ratchada Night Market — Originally a trading space for vintage vehicle lovers, Ratchada Night Market is now one of Bangkok’s most popular late-night shopping spots. Apart from vintage cars, motorbikes, bicycles and parts, you’ll find old and new home décor items, old books, fashion apparel, handcrafted products and even some lethal cocktails at the 200-plus stalls.

Ratchadapisek Rd. MRT Ladprao. Open Sat, 7pm-1am.

Talat Rod Fai — This alfresco night bazaar has quickly become the new beloved weekend night market for vintage shoppers, thanks to the mix of retro fashion, décor and toys for sale and because of the laid-back ambience at the ad hoc bars and cafés. Kamphaeng Phet Rd. MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun, 4pm-1am

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Chatuchak Market — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is one of the world’s largest weekend markets. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections roughly categorized by the products on offer. You can literally spend the weekend here amid the rabbit warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: Books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 10-24 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and homedecor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/ Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.chatuchak.org

The Emporium

Terminal 21 ­— Bangkok’s newest shopping complex boasts an airport terminal-cuminternational destinations theme. As you travel through the nine floors you can stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the higher floors offer a host of intriguing boutiques by Thai designers. There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21.co.th

Elsewhere

DULY

NEW >

Duly at Siam Kempinski

Ah, Bangkok, home to the cheap tailored shirt and suit. Locals in the know usually steer clear of such street-side venues though, preferring to pay a bit more for better fabrics and detailing. One such high-end boutique is Duly, which has just opened its second store at the luxury Siam Kempinski Hotel.

Formerly, their focus was on suits, but they’ve just launched a new made-to-order service for shirts, where you can choose every single element, from fabric to thread and buttons. Prices start from B3,000 for a ready-to-wear shirt and B4,450 for a tailored shirt. 2/F, Royal Wing, Siam Kempinski Hotel, Rama 1 Rd. behind Siam Paragon, 02-251-8818. BTS Siam. www.laladuly.co.th

Central Plaza LaRdprao ­— The 30-yearold mall just underwent a total facelift, making it the hippest shopping complex in northern Bangkok. Brands like Topman, Zara, Muji, Guess, Uniqlo, XXI Forever and Coach and over 50 restaurants, keep the mall packed on weekends. Phahonyothin Rd., 02-635-1111. MRT Lat Phrao. www. centralplaza.co.th/lardprao Crystal Design Center ­— ­The CDC offers a vast array of merchandise in a large designfocused space. Designer chairs, platinum faucets, leather sofas and a lot more home décor products are the main draw for Phase 1, while Phase 2 is filled with restaurants and bars, cute cafés, fashion boutiques and home décor stores. It’s not the easiest place to get to, though: we recommend a taxi from MRT Lad Phrao. 1420/1 Praditmanutham Rd., 02-1015999. www.crystaldesigncenter.com MARCH 2012 I WHER E T HAILAND 27

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Navigate EXPRESS RIVER Boats—These fast, frequent and

GET MOVING AIRPORT LINk—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those travelling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (connecting to the MRT, but it’s a long walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 15 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 30 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check their bags at Makkasan City Terminal. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.

Lat Phrao

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Venice of the East, there is now only one canal still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Ban Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town, stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically-challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal (klong) water, any view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are between B9 and B19, depending on distance and are purchased on board.

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cheap ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located

by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on distance.

You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with an excellent guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river.

CANAL BOATS­—While Bangkok used to be the

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1 Central Plaza Lardprao เซ็นทรัลพลาซา ลาดพร้าว

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong) สถานีรถไฟหัวลำ�โพง

2 Chatuchak Market ตลาดนัดสวนจตุจกั ร

!3 Lumpini Park สวนลุมพีนี

3 Vimanmek Mansion พระทีน ่ ง่ั วิมานเมฆ

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7 Wat PoHua วัดโพธิ Mak์ (วัดพระเชตุพนฯ)

!4 Queen Sirikit Nation Convention Center ศูนย์ประชุมแห่งชาติสริ กิ ติ ์ิ

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TOURIST INFORMATION

Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) — The Tourism Authority of Thailand is ready to answer all your questions about traveling in Thailand and the leading tourist destinations. The TAT headquarters is on Petchaburi Road (1600 New Petchaburi Road, Makkasan, Ratchathewi, 02-250-5500.

MRT Petchaburi). They have visitor centers at Ratchadamnoen Road (Ratchadamnern Nok Rd., 02-356-0650. Open daily 9am-5pm) and Suvarnabhumi Airport (1/F, near Gate 3, 02-134-4077. Open 24 hours). You can also phone their call center at 1672 or log into www.tourismthailand.org for detailed information. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals, as well as vacation packages, e-newsletters, trip planning tools and downloadable handbooks.

For emergencies, contact the Tourist Police 24-hour call center (1155).

30 W H E R E t ha i land I march 2012

Navigate listing_MAR12_3.indd 30

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SamThe Yan Bangkok Mass ÊÒÁ‹ҹ Transit Authority (BMTA) operates an extensive number of routes throughout Bangkok and its ch om Fares are B15-B40 for both trains. Tickets can N i So nearby provinces. There are two types of buses: be bought for individual journeys, or you can get skytrain/underground— The MRT non-air-con and air-con. Fares for non-air-con special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover Bangkok BTS Bangkok Skytrain (BTS) stops at Bangkok’s main Japan Christianfor air-conditioned buses are B6.5-7.5 while fares ʶҹ±ÙµÞÕ่»Ø†¹ Si Lom n a specified number of trips. For more information, Hospital to districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. ÊÕ Å Á §È a Ç Sala Ã Ø h Ê âç¾ÂÒºÒÅ ¹ buses ratc d. ¶¹are B10-23,andepending ¡Ãا෾¤ÃÔÊàµÕon ¹ the distance.

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Sala the Sukhumvit Line, which i ÅØ Á ¾Ô ¹ Õ National Stadium; and o MRT S BNH Hospital and schedules. âç¾ÂÒºÒÅºÕ à͹ àͪ ÊÕÅÁ runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city 2 ÕÅÁ TAXIS—Bangkok metered taxis are readily hat ¹¹Ê Lalaisup Life d. ¶ Phip along Sukhumvit before heading up north to the mR Soi Market There are three main .

Center Silo Intercity BUSES— «ÍÂÅÐÅÒ·ÃѾ available and very affordable, with fares starting ai Rd T n Germany o MoSathChit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is stations for buses out of town. The Northern Bus ʶҹ±ÙµàÂÍÃÁѹ from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their Greece Chong Nonsi BTS Belgium i Rd. a Austria ʶҹ±Ù µ ¡ÃÕ « T the interchange station between the two lines. ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ on ʶҹ±ÙµàºÅàÂÕ่ÂÁ is located Terminal or Mo Chit (02-936-2841/-3) ʶҹ±ÙµÍÍÊàµÃÕ Sath many colors, there’s no difference in prices and Malaysia ʶҹ±ÙµÁÒàÅà«Õ a taxi ride from Mo Chit BTS /Kamphaeng Phet Australia The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an service. Some drivers speak limitedMRT English, so ʶҹ±ÙµÍÍÊàµàÃÕ MRT and services Northern and Northeastern Sodo get your destination written down extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station in Thai to Khlong iS Singapore Myanmar rib Thailand as well as some Eastern destinations.ʶҹ±Ù The µÊÔ§¤â»Ã am ʶҹ±Ùµ¾Á‹Ò on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the avoid any miscommunication. TaxisToei sometimes ph ¤ÅͧàµÂ Taiwan e Eastern Bus Terminal (02-391-2504) is located ʶҹ±ÙµäµŒËÇѹ main Central Business District before turning try ton «negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the a ÍÈ th ÃÕ่º an right by BTS Ekamai and has buses departing to ÓྠiN ็Þ o North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past metered price.

S Pattaya, Rayong, Koh Samed and Trat. Finally, the Chatuchak Market andThung ending atPolice Bang Sue station.

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located across the river at Thonburi on Boromratchachonnanee Road and services Western (Kanchanaburi) and Southern Thailand, including the islands of Phuket and Samui.

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Banks in mall open daily, 10am-8pm. The main banks are: Bankgok Bank (1333, www.bangkokbank.com), Bank of Ayudhya (1572, www.krungsri. com), CIMBWisutkasat Thai (02-626-7777, www.cimbthai. ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇÔÊØ·¡ÉѵÃÔ com), Kasikorn Bank (02-888-8888, www.

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d.

da

.

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it

h At ra

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Chana Songkhram Police

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its

kh

Na

Nang Roeng Police

Ka s

.

o Rd.

Mahannop Rd.

d.

Chai R

d.

Rd

.

ngrak

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Bo Be ⺠àº

Bo Be Tower âºàº ·ÒÇàÇÍÃ

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The Old Siam Plaza

d.

d.

Rd.

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Wat Srabua

Yosse Hospital

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Soi 3

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detc

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ya R Si Phra

Public Health Center Hospital

loi Rd.

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Portugal p Rd

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sh

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Mittraphab Hospital

Taksin Hospital

hray a Rd

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ha

ak

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Phet Ph

SI YAEK BAN KHAEK

Somdet Chaophraya Police ʶҹյÓÃǨÊÁà´็¨à¨ŒÒ¾ÃÐÂÒ

haop

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ai Ch

Prac

Wat Sangkhachai

ng Rd.

Rd. Din D aeng

gM

Ò¾

ian

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Rong Mua

d.

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k Rd .

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ara

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itr R

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ai T hip ok R

S

Bubparam Police

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d.

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sng Rd.

Wat Traimit

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b ets

Charoen Mu

Rd.

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av a

d. ng

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uang Rd

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Charat M

Bangkok Ra illway Station

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CHINATOWN

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Santiphap Rd.

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R ai 1

muang 1

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d. gR

Rd.

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d.

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hai la C

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ngk orn Ma

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n Rd

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an

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Bangkok Yai Police

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ng

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Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn)

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India Emporium

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Man

Rd.

R at ar

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Pahu rat Rd .

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Phrarat Chawang Police

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Poh-Chang Academy of art ÇÔ·ÂÒÅÑÂà¾ÒЪ‹Ò§

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tuph Che

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on R

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haw

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China World

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Wat Pho

k hise

Ban Mo Rd. ¶¹¹ºŒÒ¹ËÁ

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Hua Chiew Hospital

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Unakan Rd .

Suriphong Rd.

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Wat Rajapardit

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ang Rd. ¶¹¹ºÓÃØ

Bamrung Mu

Rd.

Wat Suthat

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Damro

Wat Saket

Maha

Rd. Atsadang

ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

kR

âç¾ÂÒºÒÅTKTK

ng

Lan Luang Rd.

Wat Ratchanadda

ulo

Mission Hospital

ua

em

Wa rach

Grand Palace

kL

ng

Óà¹Ô¹ ¡ÅÒ§

Tithong

Grand Palace

Lu

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.

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Tannao Rd. ¶¹¹µ

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Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

Rd. ¶¹¹Ê

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·‹ÒªŒÒ§

ai Sanam ch

iver

Chao Phraya R

Rd. n Amari Arun

Na Phra Lan Rd.

Tha Chang

on

йÒÇ

d. hat R hra T

Rd.

Maharaj Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÁËÒÃÒª

ang Rd.

Rachini Rd

·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇѧËÅѧ

Chan

atchad am

Wang Lang

Phra

Mana Rat Rd.

·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã

Na P

Phrachan Pier

noen Kl

d.

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Ratchada m

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iR

in

ch

ÁËÒÇÔ·ÂÒÅѸÃÃÁÈÒʵÃ

Phrannok Rd.

R fa

Ra

Thammasat University

·‹ÒàÃ×͸¹ºØÃÕ

n Rd

ao

Thonburi Railway Siriraj Hospital

.

Ph

Ch

National Museum

Rd

Boworn niw et Rd.

Kha

en

d.

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kasikornbank.com), Kiatnakin Bank (02-680-3333, www.kiatnakin.co.th), Krungthai Bank (1551, www. ktb.co.th), Siam Commercial Bank (02-777-7777, www.scb.co.th), Standard Chartered Bank (1595, www.standardchartered.co.th), Thanachart Bank (1770, www.thanachartbank.com), Tisco Bank (www.tisco.co.th), TMB Bank (02-299-1111, www. tmbbank.com), United Overseas Bank (02-2851555, www.uob.co.th).

Soi 2/24/12 6:345 PM aro

ng en Kru

4

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APL

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Makkasan ong

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Queen Sirikit National Convention Centr

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Benchakiti Park

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Belgium

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Lang Su

Thong Rd .

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khum vit 55 S o i Su

Soi Sukhum vit 39 ra

Soi Loe t

in Yot h iW att ana

Soi C

Soi 31

Soi 22

Soi 15

Soi 13

Rd.

Phip

Liap

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Soi

âç¾ÂÒºÒÅºÕ à͹ àͪ

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MRT Station

MRT

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Lalaisup Market

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BNH Hospital

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Japan

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Bangkok Christian Hospital

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Hot Stuff

March in Thailand means the start of the steamy summer.

Make sure you’re prepared for the heat, with a stylish, sultry look that’s perfect for your next cruise around the Andaman.

1 Keep your eyes protected from the

3 Catch the breeze with one of these

4 Ensure your Dollars stay dry with this

tropical sun with a pair of oversized Thierry Lasry, turtle-shell-style shades from Glassaholic. B15,500. 3/F Digital Gateway, 02-623-4295. BTS Siam.

flowing silk neck scarves with monogram prints from Coach. B3,500. Try 1/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-129-4664. BTS Siam. www.coach.com

line of leather wallets from Container.

B4,600. Try 4/F, Zen, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd. BTS Chit Lom. www. containerbag.net

2 Classy red leather loafers from Coach double up as great deck shoes. B9,900.

Try 1/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02129-4664. BTS Siam. www.coach.com

5 Trade in your old duffel bag for one of these sharp canvas-and-leather totes from Container. B8,800. Try 4/F, Zen, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd. BTS Chit Lom. www.containerbag.net

6 Keep your iPhone safe from the seasalt spray with a seasonal case collection from famous Thai brand Kloset. B1,150.

Try 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-6581729. BTS Siam. www.klosetdesign.com

5 3

2

1

PATTRAYUTH PEANTHAM

4

6

march 2012 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 33

HOTSTUFF_1_NEW.indd 33

2/24/12 6:27 PM

tea al’s

the g local ket in

Y

30 Things we LOve about Thailand

6

!8 1 Exploring the rich Lanna culture and amazing ancient temples on the charming streets of Chiang Mai. 2 Discovering Michelin-Starworthy, traditional Thai dishes at David Thompson’s Nahm (G/F, Metropolitan, 02-625-3333).

3 Browsing for cutting-edge fashions from the exciting young designers at Mob F (4/F, Siam Center, BTS Siam).

4 Offering alms to monks in the morning mist of Chiang Khan, on the banks of the Mekong River.

8

@2 9 Exploring the home of secret agent and silk tycoon Jim Thompson (6 Soi Kasemsan 2, 02-216-7368), a complex of gorgeous Thai teak pavilions packed with Asian antiques. !0 Discovering the natural delights of Phu Ruea National Park in Loei.

!1 Sipping a glass of Monsoon Valley Cuvee de Siam while looking out over the rolling hills at Hua Hin Hills Vineyard (081-701-0222).

#0 !7 Sitting ringside for a Thai

@4 Taking a coffee-roasting

boxing match at Lumpini Stadium (Rama IV Rd., MRT Lumpini, www. muaythailumpini.com).

course at the Doi Chaang (www. doichaangcoffee.com) plantation in Chiang Rai.

!8 Savoring a glass of rare Vintage

@5 Setting out on a boat trip from

Moët & Chandon Champagne at The St. Regis Bar (12/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-2077777).

Koh Samui to explore the 40 stunning tropical islands of Angthong Marine National Park.

@6 Feasting on a five-star hotel floral delights and organized chaos of Pak Klong Talad flower market.

Sunday brunch, with lobster, foie gras and free-flow sparkling wine. Try the Peninsula’s by the river.

@0 Catching a traditional puppet

@7 Playing 18 holes on the beautiful

show at Baan Silapin (Tha Phra, Klong Bang Luang, 02-868-5279).

and challenging course at Black Mountain Golf Club in Hua Hin (www.blackmoutainhuahin.com).

!9 Getting up early to experience the

!2 Traversing the famous bridge and drinking in the memories along the River Kwai in Kanchanaburi.

5 Getting lost in the maze of alleys at Chatuchak Weekend Market (BTS Mo Chit/MRT Kamphaeng Phet).

!3 Taking a bicycle trip around the @1 Taking a long tail boat to Freedom

6 Experiencing the eerie beauty of

floating markets, lush plantations and crumbling temples of Bang Krajao (Spice Roads, www.spiceroads.com).

the sacred Wat Rong Khun (aka The White Temple) in Chiang Rai.

!4 Escaping the stresses of modern

@2 Spending a whole day of being

7 Drinking a cocktail while admiring

living at one of Bangkok’s meditation centers (try www.bia.or.th).

pampered with the wide selection of rejuvenating treatments at i.Sawan (5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan, 02-2541234).

Bangkok’s skyline from the 44th floor at Long Table Bar (02-302-2557/-9. www.longtablebangkok.com).

8 Learning how to kite surf on the breezy unspoilt beach at Pranburi, try Air Stylers Kite School (www. airstylers.com).

!0

!5 Getting a glimpse of what Bangkok used to be like with a klong tour around the old canals (klongs) of Nonthaburi from Saphan Taksin Pier.

!6 Hunting for antiques along Charoenkrung Road in Bangkok.

Beach, the wonderfully inaccessible (and peaceful) beach in Phuket.

@8 Walking Phuket Town’s heritage trail and experiencing the unique Sino-Portuguese architecture.

@9 Getting up close to a gentle giant with a day visit to the Elephant Nature Foundation (www. elephantnaturefoundation.org) just outside Chiang Mai.

@3 Embarking on a Segway Tour (www.segwaytourthailand.com) through the streets of Rattanakosin, passing old shophouses, temples and canals along the way.

#0 Soaking up the view of the Andaman Sea from your private pool at the luxurious Sri Panwa (www. sripanwa.com) in Phuket.

34 W H E R E t ha i l and I MARCH 2012

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