THE BEST NEW OPENINGS IN BANGKOK • CHIANG MAI • HUA HIN • KRABI • PHUKET • SAMUI
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HOT SPOTS
CONTENTS WHERE Thailand Hot Spots 2015
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BANGKOK
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CHIANG MAI
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KRABI
16
HUA HIN
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PHUKET
You’ve been to the Grand Palace. You’ve photographed yourself at Wat Pho. You’ve even bought one of those hill-tribe hats on Khao San Road. Then this is the Thailand travel guide for you. WHERE Thailand Hot Spots 2015 rounds up the very best of what’s new from across the kingdom to clue in our well-traveled friends with the places and trends getting locals excited: the happening bars in Bangkok’s Chinatown, the steaming cups of Thai-grown coffee coming out of Chiang Mai, the luxury hideaways opening on Koh Samui, and the grown-up fine-dining scene on Phuket. So get comfortable and start planning a trip to Thailand that you won’t get from regular guidebooks. General Manager Andrew Hiransomboon
Staff Writer Pinnyada Tanitnon
Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant
Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Lily Kittisrikangwan, Natcha Saguankiattichai
Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon
Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai
Regional Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk
Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant
Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Guide Designer Chantich Kongchanmitkul
On the cover Nikki Beach Koh Samui
Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Room A, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100 North Sathorn Road, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: +66(0)2624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th
facebook.com/wherethailand www.wherethailand.com @where_thailand
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Where Thailand Hot Spots 2015/16 is published and distributed on October 2015. It is published by Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd., 9/F, Room A, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100 North Sathorn Road, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500. Copyright ©2015 Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “Where Thailand,” “Where Thailand Hot Spots 2015/16,” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of Where Thailand Hot Spots are the property of Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. The Guide may not be distributed without the express written consent of Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request.
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HOT SPOTS
BANGKOK
EAT Baan This restaurant’s name means “home” in Thai, and it specializes in dishes prepared using the chef’s family recipes and locally sourced produce, like organic rice, free-range pork and eggs. Baan’s signature dishes span classics like somtum (Thai-style spicy papaya salad) as well as slightly more creative recipes like kai palo tom-sap (spicy fivespiced egg soup). Despite the homestyle cooking, the excellent cocktails and modern decor bring a touch of sophistication. Wireless Rd., 02-655-8995. Open Wed-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm; Mon 11am2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. MRT Lumphini www.baanbkk.com.
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Borrowing the same concepts from all L’Atelier branches, this elegant red and black space has diners seated around a large open kitchen, a format more remniscent of a sushi bar than classic dining a la Francaise. The food remains unmistakebly French, though the free-range quail stuffed with foie gras and potato purée comes with all the finesse you’d expect from Joel Robuchon, the chef with the most Michelin stars in the world. 5/F, Mahanakorn Cube, 96 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0698. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi. www.robuchon-bangkok.com.
Marcel
BANGKOK Err Chef-couple Duangporn Songvisava and Dylan Jones, the masterminds behind one of Bangkok’s top Thai restaurants, Bo.lan, have gone for a casual and raw look in this shop-house restaurant near the river. It focuses on small-portioned, creative Thai dishes that go well with drinks, like chicken satay with brioche, naem (Northern-style garlic and sticky rice cured pork) and the deep-fried whole-chicken skin with homemade Sriracha sauce. The bar boasts plenty of cocktails made with Thai spirits. 394/35 Maharaj Rd., 02-622-2291 Open Tue-Sun 11am-midnight. www.errbkk.com.
Expect to drink alongside a young, international art and fashion crowd at this casual restaurant-bar in the swinging Sathorn Soi 10 neighborhood. Downstairs is all about French-influenced bar food like shoestring fries and beef tartare, served alongside cocktails named after French writers. Upstairs offers more formal dishes that draw on Asian influences, like chicken breast, lemongrass and grilled eggplant served with tomato and onion jam, and salmon wasabi pea puree, cauliflower and baby carrots served with raw fennel salad. Sathorn Soi 10, 02-635-3533. Open Tue-Fri 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-midnight. BTS Chong Nonsi. ow.ly/Tq5cO.
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HOT SPOTS
BANGKOK Cool Chinatown
El Chiringuito Marcel
Paste
Paste (Gaysorn Plaza) Two of Bangkok’s most highly-regarded modern chefs, Bongkoch Satongun and Jason Bailey, joined forces with the aristocratic Sanitwong family, descendants of Rama II, to open this branch of Paste. Its specialty is recipes from the Sanitwongs’ ancient cookbooks, with a particular emphasis on curries. Try the gang gai gorlae (Southern Thai-Muslim curry with grilled chicken), made using sous-vide, coconut-husk-smoked grilled chicken. 3/F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02656-1003. Open daily noon-2pm, 6:30pm-midnight. BTS Chit Lom. www. pastebangkok.com.
Taper This brunch spot offers Western dishes with Thai twists, such as salted egg carbonara (fresh pasta, grilled squid, salty egg yolk) and E-Sarn Olio Aglio (fresh pasta, Isaan sausage, salted fish). Also expect breakfast staples like eggs Benedict and granola with yogurt and their house-made buttermilk biscuit. Book ahead: The little shop-house’s
Taper
ground floor is dedicated to an open kitchen and a small bar overlooking the street, while the mezzanine level has space for about 20 people.
This shop-house bar is one of a new breed of Chinatown bars attracting Bangkok’s young and hip. There’s a charming retro ambience courtesy of reclaimed wooden furniture, classic sewing tables, old posters and an adorable chalkboard menu displaying Spanish tapas drawn from the owner’s six years living in Spain. Try the patatas bravas (fried potatoes) and bocadillos (sandwiches), all washed down with a Spanish Xoriguer gin. 221 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 086340-4791. Open Thu-Sun 6pm-midnight. MRT Hua Lamphong. http:// ow.ly/Tq5jp.
G/F, 44/11 Thonglor Soi 13, 099-929-5464. Open Tue-Sun 9am-4pm. www.taperbkk. com.
The Dining Room In what used to be the Soviet Embassy, this standalone outpost of the neighboring W Hotel has one of the most stunning dining rooms in town, artfully blending the building’s period details with considerate modern touches. Half of the restaurant’s 40 seats are at a long, wooden counter facing the kitchen, where the team turns out fusion dishes like Hunting (duck breast lying on splashes of red pomegranate sauce and burnt onion powder as gunpowder) and The Red Parfait (foie gras torchon wrapped with beetroot jelly, served with brioche and aged balsamic vinegar).
Soy Sauce Factory
106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi. ow.ly/Tq5et.
11/1 Charoenkrung Soi 24, 061-8356824. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. soysaucefactory.com.
This art space has held one successful event after another since it opened last year, from the shocking nudes of controversial Chinese artist Ren Hang to the reportage archives of Roland Neveu during the fall of Phnom Penh. Located in an actual old soy sauce factory, the bare-bones buildng—open plan, concrete floors, industrial lighting— is split between the gallery upstairs and a Thai restaurant and bar downstairs.
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HOT SPOTS
BANGKOK Cool Chinatown (continued)
Teens of Thailand Hiding behind an ominous, Indian-style door is a small, moody bar belonging to a who’s-who of Bangkok’s art and nightlife scene, from fashion photographers and party organizers to mixologists and musicians. Do explore the vast collection of gin, from the must-try Hanami (the house pour) to the locally distilled Iron Balls. The decor is basic, mixing old shop-house charm with racy photography exhibitions. 76 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 081443-3784. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-12:30am. MRT Hua Lamphong. ow.ly/Tq5xF.
Revolucion Cocktail
PLAY Revolucion Cocktail This colorful Latin-American-themed bar, with other venues in Shanghai, Guangzhou and Xiemen, is the most lively spot in this chic enclave of cocktail bars and restaurants. The specialty is both classic cocktails like mojito and Moscow Mule, as well as reinvented signatures like the Aged Negroni (gin, Martini Rosso, Campari, fresh strawberry, blueberry, orange, passion fruit and soda). There’s also an interesting selection of tapas dishes.
Smalls
50 Sathorn Soi 10, 02-235-4823. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Chong Nonsi. ow.ly/Tq5Cq.
Smalls Tep Bar This restored shop-house has plenty of raw appeal, and specializes in potent cocktails mixed with Thai fruits, herbs and spices. There’s also a good line of home-infused ya dong (Thai herbal whiskey) as well as a kitchen dishing out Thai tapas. Come nightfall, enjoy your meal while Thai musicians take the stage to play traditional music from Thailand’s Central region. Room 69-71, Soi Nana, 098-467-2944. Open Tue-Thu 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sun 5pm-1am. MRT Hua Lamphong. ow.ly/ Tq5A3.
This laidback, late-night bar is split over three rickety levels of an old corner townhouse where the owner’s prized collection of contemporary art matches with a hands-off approach to restoration. Book in advance if you want to nab a seat with a view on the rooftop terrace. Or head downstairs to knock back shots of absinthe (the house specialty) and mingle with a hard-drinking after-work crowd of expats and locals. 186/3 Suanphlu Soi 1, 095-585-1398. Open Wed-Sun 7pm-2am; Mon 7pm-2am. www. facebook.com/smallsbkk.
Studio Lam
Studio Lam This tiny bar on the super-hip Sukhumvit Soi 51 pairs global beats with quality drinks. The space may look fairly basic, bearing the remnants of an old Japanese restaurant that used to be there, but the star of the show is a specially designed tube sound system which pumps out everything from molam (a kind of Thai funk) to acid jazz. The bar also boasts the most exciting list of ya dong (herbal spirits) in the city. Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. Open TueSun 6pm-2am. BTS Thong Lo. www.facebook.com/studiolambangkok.
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HOT SPOTS
BANGKOK
SHOP Onion Store: Aree
The Emquartier
A local indie star runs this multi-label men’s fashion store and hub of all things cool in the Ari neighborhood. The spacious white boutique is dedicated to clothing and accessories from cult imported brands like Saturdays Surf NYC, Beton x Cire and Stanley & Sons. There’s also a room selling vintage-wear, including lots of never-before-worn deadstock from New York. You can get a great cup of coffee instore too, thanks to a partnership with local coffee-bean specialist Brave. 2/F, 66 Rama 6 Soi 30, 02-002-3605. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.onionbkk.com.
Rod Fai Market 2
Rod Fai Market 2
Antique toys, neon-lit beer signs, vintage fashion and retro furniture line the streets of this popular night market. The street eats are also endless, spanning all kinds of spicy salads to oldschool, manually-pumped sodas and
traditional Thai-style coffee and boozier offerings. Local indie artists regularly make apperances, too, drawing a weekend crowd that can be pretty intense. Parking lot of Esplanade Complex, 99 Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-591-3777. Open Thu-Sun 5pm-1am. MRT Thai Cultural Centre.
The Emquartier This new shopping mall is part of a B20 billion restyling of the Phrom Phong area as Em District, a development of premium hotels, offices, residences and entertainment facilities. The result is packed with high-end boutiques including flagship stores from MCM, Jimmy Choo, Valentino, Sephora and A Bathing Ape, plus cult Asian brands Stylenanda (Korea) and Beams (Japan). As a bonus, the striking development also features a 40-meter-high man-made waterfall and plenty of green space. The EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-2691000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong. www.theemdistrict.com.
Happening Galleries
56th Studio Private Gallery
Bangkok City City Gallery
Illustration, furniture, graphic and product design from local names in a space that is crisp, white and sexy. It often plays host to boozy art parties, too, with cocktails themed around the opening exhibition. Bonus: It’s located right by some of Bangkok’s best Italian restaurants (Appia, Peppina) and Japanese whiskey bars (Walden, Hanakaruta).
This massive, purpose-built white cube right by Lumpini Park facilitates all forms of art, whether it’s paintings, video installations or live performances. Its opening exhibition, saw a maze of tunnels set up to display works by celebrated local cartoonist Wisut Ponnimit.
Green Connect, Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-1593. Open daily 1pm-7pm. www.56thstudio.com
13/3 Sathorn Soi 1, 083-0872725. Open Wed-Sun 2pm-8pm.
Schemata Gallery
YenakArt Villa
The best gallery on Thonglor. It opened strongly in July 2015 with an exhibition of formerly private sketches from esteemed landscape architect Pok Kobkongsanti and followed it up with a series of canvases created over 10 years by Chiang Mai artist Angkrit Ajchariyasophon. The crowd is welldressed, wealthy and mostly designers.
One of Bangkok’s most striking private galleries: a modernist-influenced, multi-purpose space withsoaring ceilings, expansive glass and crisp white facade. Since opening, it’s become a meeting point for artists, critics and collectors thanks to regular private events, but the rest of us can visit, too—if we make an appointment.
1/F, Liberty Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 088-088-8066. ow.ly/Tq5ZO.
69 Soi Prasat Suk, Yen Akat Rd., 02-235-9800. (By appointment only.) ow.ly/Tq61w.
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HOT SPOTS
CHIANG MAI
Arttitude Gallery
EAT Arttitude Gallery This tucked-away, feel-good space not only serves Chiang Mai’s beverage of choice—coffee (see page 14)—but also specializes in sugar-free, 100-percent pure cold-pressed juices. And because they are health-focused folks, there isn’t any alcohol. The loft-style venue features plenty of wood and plants for a homey, airy feel. Don’t forget to check upstairs, where the owner sometimes hosts art exhibitions. Nimmanhaemin Soi 5, 052-002-202. ow.ly/ Tq6ct.
Teak Table Coffee & Eatery This casual eatery serves local dishes alongside wine and local coffee. It’s set in a giant Thai house overlooking a lush, well-kept garden. Recomended dishes include the chicken massaman (chicken in red curry with potato served with rice), goong chae nampla (raw shrimp soaked in spicy fish sauce) and gaeng hang lae kap moo (Northern curry served with sticky rice and pork skin). 202/5 Moo 1, Chang Phuak, 088-251-8740. Open Mon-Tue, Thu-Fri 9:30am-9pm, Sat-Sun 9am-9pm. ow.ly/Tq6eJ
CHIANG MAI Graph Table This restaurant offshoot of a popular old coffee shop (25/1 Ratvithi Lane 2, Sriphum) welcomes you with a dark wooden facade, window boxes and hanging plants. The kitchen serves fresh, homemade Italian cuisine with organic local produce such as free-range eggs from Lamphun. For breakfast expect artfully named egg dishes such as Monet (mashed avocado on salsa salad), Post Modern (eggs Benedict with deboned emilano ham on toast) and Moonmuang (poached egg on toast with baked beans and grilled mushroom). Salads and pizzas round out the menu. You can get a proper cup of coffee, too. Moonmuang Soi 6, 086-567-3330. Open daily 9am-6pm. ow.ly/Tq692.
SHOP Baan Khang Wat Vendors at this community mall must be socially-conscious businesses who give back to society through their crafts and products. The 10 wooden-and-concrete houses offer the likes of Japanese-style craft shop Jibberish, cafe-cum-guesthouse Enough for Life, ceramic shop Bookoo Studio and library-plus-cafe Mahasamut. Opposite Wat Ram Poeng Rd., 095-691-0888. Open daily 10am-6pm.
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HOT SPOTS
CHIANG MAI COFFEE CULTURE
Akha Ama X2 Nimman Villa
The decor might be an en vogue blend of blond woods and quaint illustrations, but that doesn’t mean they’re not deadly serious about their coffee beans, which are produced by the Akha hilltribe community in Mae Suay, Chiang Rai—to whom all profits go back. 175/1 Ratchadamnoen Rd., 086-9158600. Open Mon-Sat 8am-6pm, Sun 8am-8pm. www.akhaama.com
Ploen Rudee Night Market
Akyra Manor Chiang Mai
Ploen Rudee Night Market
Hotel Yayee
Taking place every evening, this market is filled with vendors selling handmade goods, accessories and decor items. The highlight, however, is the large barn-style food truck zone selling sushi, pizza, burgers and more.
An affordable gem spread across four stories of an old shop house. Handwoven Lanna shawls and Laotian carpets adorn the 14 casual but well-apointed rooms (all either 24 or 32 sq meters). The real highlight is its rooftop terrace, which looks out over the city and Doi Suthep mountain. Free minibar and breakfast make the already-low rates even better.
Chan Klang Rd., 052-001-575. Open Daily 4pm-midnight.
STAY Akyra Manor Chiang Mai In Chiang Mai’s vibrant Nimmanhaemin area, local hipsters and students come to drink coffee, shop and party. It’s also where you’ll find this urban-chic, allsuite hotel with its 30 rooms and rooftop infinity pool. Check in, take a nap on the 430 thread-count Egyptian cotton sheets, maybe catch up on some international cable, then head out to explore the thriving nearby hot spots like Arttitude Gallery, Mixology cocktail bar and Beer Republic. 22/2 Nimmanhaemin Soi 9, 053-216-219. www.theakyra.com/chiangmai.
17/5 Sainamphueng Rd, 099-269-5885. www.hotelyayee.com.
X2 Nimman Villa
Doppio Ristr8to Ristr8to’s initial claim to fame was the mini celeb status of its owner/head barista, Arnon “Tong” Thitiprasert, who ranked 6th at the 2011 World Latte Art Championship. Grab a seat at the counter and watch the master serve up steaming cups of art by pouring milk over your espresso shot, but be warned—the cafe draws a long line even before it opens. 15/3 Nimmanhaemin Rd., 053-215-278. Open daily 7am-6pm. www.ristr8to-coffee-chiangmai.com
Ponganes Espresso
Another new opening in the Nimmanhaemin area, this huge villa looks to attract big groups of friends or families with its designer decor and abundant facilities. The seven bedrooms spread over five floors can sleep up to 14 guests, who’ll get to shoot pool together in the games room, lounge in front of movies in the living room, and sunbathe on the rooftop deck.
The open-air space and natural views come secondary at this local coffee snobs’ favorite. Ponganes is so serious about what’s in the cup that it doesn’t even offer Wi-Fi—you’re meant to be focusing on the flavors not playing with your phone. The beans come from 20 locations around the world, and are chosen not only for flavor, but also the work ethics of their growers.
1/10 Maneenopparat Soi 2, 091-808-4257. ow.ly/Tq6C8.
133/5 Ratchapakinai Rd., 087-727-2980. Open Mon-Tue, Thu-Sun 9am-4:30pm. ow.ly/Tq6LS.
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HOT SPOTS
HUA HIN
The Restro Hotel
The Restro Hotel Bangkokians’ urbane tastes are reflected in this modernist meets modern-industrial beachside pad with its colorfully upholstered, curvaceous Nordic furniture, raw light fixtures and bare cement. And it’s all located just steps from the beach and right beside the happening Cicada Market.
HUA HIN
1/462 Soi Takiab 2, 094-890-0430. ow.ly/ Tq6RB.
PLAY
Yuthika Well-Being Spa Escape Hua Hin, 25/2 Petchkasem Rd., Hua Hin, 032-653-456. Open daily 9am-8pm.
The Yuthika Well-Being Spa covers 300 sq meters of the fisherman’s village-themed Escape Hua Hin Resort. The spa itself boasts seven treatment rooms and over 20 treatments, including Thai massage, Swedish massage and facials. The spa’s “follow the sun” concept tailors each package to the body’s different requirements for every time of the day, from the rosy-scented morning massage oil to the uplifting, minty daylight treatment and relaxing sunset-themed treatment with lavender. Escape Hua Hin, 25/2 Petchkasem Rd., Hua Hin, 032-653-456. Open daily 9am-8pm.
DO
STAY
Siam Milsim
The Bike Loft
This recently-opened shooting range is divided into two sections: one for regular shooting practice, where players are also trained about security measures; and another where shooters are tasked with beating the clock to shoot targets set up around various obstacles. The venue also specializes in simulation games. “Zombie Infection” sees players needing to stop the spread of a zombie virus. Heightening the excitement, the game is held in a secret location complete with ATVs, boats and real buildings.
Decked out in artwork made from real bicycle parts, this industrial-style hostel is a cyclist’s haven. Not only do they allow guests to bring their prized wheels into their rooms with them, they’re also located uphill above an ideal bike path. Every loft-like room is decorated differently, either with bike-themed vibrant mural paintings, bicycle-part art or canvas paintings.
10/469 Hua Hin Soi 94, 091-697-0821. Open daily 12pm-10pm. ow.ly/Tq6Qe
The Wave Beach Club Just steps away from the ocean, Hua Hin’s first serious beach club (belonging to the Hyatt Regency Hua Hin) lets you enjoy a cocktail whipped up from a fully-stocked bar while reclining on a sunbed during the day. When the sun sets on the weekends, the venue also functions as a restaurant, serving light dishes ranging from crab rolls to mini-sliders, before transforming into an outdoor club with the resident DJ spinning house beats. 91 Hua Hin-Khao Takiap Rd., 03-252-1232. Open Thu-Sun 10am-midnight. www.thewavebeachclub.com.
444 Moo 15, Hin Lek Fai, 092-281-7722. www.thebikeloft.com The Bike Loft
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HOT SPOTS
KRABI
Ibis Styles
PLAY Oh My God
The Hilltop Restaurant
KRABI
198 Krabi Rd., Krabi Town, 088-716-0623. Open daily 4pm-2am. ow.ly/Tq79Y
The Hilltop Restaurant For some of the best views in Krabi, book a table at this spacious and sleekly designed restaurant above Ao Nang and Noppharat Thara beaches. The menu covers a decent if conventional selection of Thai favorites with a focus on seafood. Request a table on the grassy area away from the main building for the best views. 93 Moo 3, Ao Nang, 075-637-196. Open daily 11-1am. www.thehilltopaonang.com
EAT Ruen Mai This local favorite sits in an open-air bamboo structure with soaring conical ceilings, rustic decor, traditional tiles and private dining salas. It all makes for a lovely setting to enjoy excellent Thai food, mostly regional favorites like shrimp paste, hoy chak teen (boiled dog conch) served with spicy sauce, and goong makham (stir-friend shirmp with herbs and tamarind paste). 315/5 Maharaj Rd. Open daily 10:30am-3pm, 5-10pm. ow.ly/Tq71p.
Deep Cafe N’ Bar Set in a renovated shop house, the bar carries crumbling, artsy charm thanks to colorful hippie murals and live bands performing lounge jazz and indie-folk. The kitchen serves Asian and Western fusion
For some late-night drinking and live music, this bar-slash-restaurant at Klong Ji Lard Junction is as popular with locals as it is with tourists. Lots of neon-blue lighting makes for a definite nightclub vibe with live music playing till 11pm, while more casual drinks can be had on the outdoor terrace.
STAY Ibis Styles (Krabi) Though five minutes from the beach, this new 206-room hotel from the international Ibis chain offers modest prices for such a comfortable, stylish resort. Standard 20-sq-meter rooms have a basic but elegant appearance. Hotel facilities include a free-form pool and free beach shuttle service. 725 Moo 2, Ao Nang Muang, 026-592-888. ow.ly/Tq7Iu
Ruen Mai
dishes prepared with Thai fruits, herbs and spices. Try the braised pork belly with herbs and honey lemon sauce, washed down with potent cocktails like the Mora-kot (Sangsom, Midori, sweet basil, lemograss and lime) or A-yo-tha-ya (Mekhong shaken with kaffir lime leaves, Indian red onion, white turmeric, lemongrass and lime). Sribharami Soi 1, Paaknaam, 075-811-397. Open daily 11am-2pm; Mon-Thu 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 6pm-midnight. ow.ly/Tq76W.
Viangviman This luxurious teakwood resort brings some Northern Thai charm down to the beach. Taking its styling cues from the classic Lanna architecture of Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, the all-villa resort is surrounded by lush green mountains and sits five minutes from Noppraratetara Beach and a seven-minute drive from Ao Nang Beach. Accomodation ranges from a 66-sq-meter garden villa with two bedrooms to the 360-sq-meter, four-bedroom presidential private villa. 313 Moo 5, Ao Nang, 087-305-7171, 086626-3588. www.viangvimanpoolvilla.com.
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HOT SPOTS
PHUKET
Baba Iki
EAT Baba Iki This Japanese restaurant sits on the top floor of the stunning Sri Panwa resort and takes its name from the Japanese phrase for skulling your drink, ikki nomi. But don’t take that to heart, since the produce here is definitely worth savoring—think super-premium Hida wagyu beef and fatty otoro tuna. No, this is not seafood caught locally, but it is some of the finest ingredients in the world. Sri Panwa, 88 Moo 8, Sakdidej Rd., Vichit, 076371-000. Open daily 11am-11pm. ow.ly/ Tq7n7.
Palm Seafood This open-air seafood restaurant and bar boasts a sleek ocean-facing deck and pond dotted with sunken tables. Choose your dinner from the showcase of freshly caughtliving seafood ranging from lobster to white snapper. There’s also a beachside bar that’s perfect for a sundowner beer against the beautiful backdrop of Bangtao Beach. Twinpalms Phuket, Surin Beach, Surin, 094480-0937. Open daily 11am-midnight. ow.ly/ Tq7rF.
PHUKET Tu Kab Khao The team behind local Thai-fusion restaurant Table Spoon transformed a 120-year-old building into a villa-like eatery serving Southern recipes. In addition to classics such as moo hong (braised pork belly) and mee gaeng pu (crab curry with noodle), they also have handsome cocktails like the Baba-Nyonya, which plays on Peranakan culture by mixing two glasses into one drink, symbolizing the inter-marriage between Chinese men and Malay ladies. 8 Phang-nga Rd., Phuket Town, 076-608-888. Open daily 11am-midnight. ow.ly/Tq7jy.
DO Flying Hanuman This zip-line adventure takes you through an 80,000-sq-meter plot in Phuket’s tropical jungle where platforms amid the trees’ canopy are connected by a network of zip-lines. Here, you’ll be able to spot an array of wildlife ranging from wild gibbons to tropical flowers. All platforms are custom-built and eco-friendly, causing no damage to the environment. 89/16 Moo 6, Soi Namtok Kathu, VichitSongkram Rd., Kathu, 081-979-2332. Open daily 8am-6pm.
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HOT SPOTS
PHUKET DINING CLASSICS
Blue Elephant
Baba Soul Food The Avenue
Hype Experience
Hype Experience Luxury Boat Club
Saxophone
Sri Panwa might be one of the best five-star resorts on Phuket, but its signature restaurant keeps things casual with home-style Thai dishes like khao tang poong pirod and lhon goong (crispy rice crackers served with green curry and shrimp coconut dip). The buzzword here is local, with many ingredients sourced from the island. Sri Panwa, 88 Moo 8, Sakdidej Rd., Vichit, 076-371-000. Open daily 6pm-11pm. ow. ly/Tq7n7
The Avenue
Blue Elephant
At B2,900, this six-hour yacht trip sees you set sail on the Andaman with a set of free canapes and free-flow soft drinks. In the mood to celebrate? Moet Champagne is served on board from B2,100. Private chartered trips start at B130,000 for 10 people, too.
This all-day restaurant and bar opens with morning staples like full English breakfast and French toast with seasonal fruit, before switching to salads and sandwiches at lunch and Thai classics come dinnertime. The drinks menu spans some of the best craft beers on the island as well as serious cocktails.
(High Season) Patong Beach, Kathu. (Low Season) Ao Po Marina, 062-956-2416. www. hype-boat-club.com.
46/11 Moo 5, Vichit, 061-251-6706. Open Wed-Sun 7am-midnight; Mon 7am-midnight. www.theavenuephuket.com.
This world-famous Thai restaurant group has renovated the century-old Prapitak Chinpracha Sino-Portuguese mansion. What once belonged to an affluent family is now a luxurious dining space and cooking school serving some of the best Royal Thai cuisine on the island. The menu serves both Central and Southern dishes, and has some nice set menus for those who’d rather put their faith in the chef’s personal choices.
PLAY Saxophone When one of Bangkok’s oldest and best-loved jazz bars opened up on Phuket this year, it brought with it the same low-key, red-brick vibe and high calibre of music (the guys on sax, clarinet and piano can seriously play). Stick to the reasonably priced beer and whiskey, order up some fried drinking snacks and enjoy. 41/3 Chana-Charoen Rd., Phuket Town, 076-355-091-2. Open daily 6pm-2am. www. saxophonephuket.com.
Zimplex Designed to mimick a science laboratory and specializing in creative cocktails, this bar sees bartenders donning white coats to mix colorful, molecular drinks using lab equipment. Many of the creations are served in shot form, such as the Hannibal (a mix of various schnapps and liqueurs) and the Nebula Jellyfish (a mix of vodka, rum and various liqueurs). But don’t go too crazy. Each customer is limited to “only” 20 shots a night. 156/48 Phang-Nga Rd., Phuket Town, 084003-6664. Open daily 9pm-1am. ow.ly/ Tq7Ob.
96 Krabi Rd., Phuket Town, 076-354-355. Open daily 9am-midnight. ow.ly/Tq7Ug
DeDos Fusion flavors and fancy plating. A French classic like frog legs in garlic butter, for example, comes with the local touch of tamarind and chili, while duck breast is served alongside a pomelo salad. You'll also find Japanese options like sashimi and teriyaki chicken, as well as Mediterranean dishes and simple pastas. 8 Lagoon Rd., Cherngtalay, 076-325-182. Open daily 6-11pm. www.dedos-restaurant.com
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HOT SPOTS
PHUKET DINING CLASSICS (continued)
Trisara Seafood
Nahmyaa This bubbly, goldfish-themed restaurant facing the water serves dishes inspired by the depths of the Andaman Sea. Get things started with one of the signature cocktails such as The Fighting Duck (plum, jam, ginger and hoisin, shaken with ruby port and barrel-aged reposado tequila, served over ice with cherry wood smoke), before a main course of Southern curried kingfish with spinach stir-fried in coconut milk.
Keemala
255 Moo 8, Pakhlok, 076-360-100. Open daily 6:30pm-11pm. ow.ly/Tq8dn.
The Siam Supper Club Located right outside a complex of luxe resorts, this sleek venue goes for a moody, prohibition-chic look. Its long bar serves up must-try cocktails, a great wine list and a good selection of classic grilled meat like Australian lamb racks and char-grilled Angus beef burgers. 36–40 Lagoon Rd., Cherngtalay, 076-270936. Open daily 6pm-1am. www.siamsupperclub.com.
Trisara Seafood The high-end resort setting on the quiet part of Nai Thon Beach ensures a low-key crowd, while the Mediterranean-influenced decor of bleached wood and blue fabrics belies a focus on seafood that’s caught locally. This means the food is best at its most simple, like grilled tiger prawns dressed in nothing more than Himalayan salt. Trisara, 60/1 Moo 6,, Srisoonthorn Rd., Cherngtalay, 076-310-100. Open daily noon-3pm, 7-11pm. http://goo.gl/CJeihD.
The Rommanee Classic
STAY Bandara Resort Located in the peaceful Ao-Yon Bay, this resort is actually divided into two separate hotels: the more luxurious Bandara Villas and the cheap but pleasant Banadara Beach. Each is positioned right on the beach and decorated in bright shades and blond woods. The Panoramic Pool Villas at Bandara Villas are something special.
10/88 Moo 6, Nakasud Rd., Kathu, 076-358777. www.keemalaphuket.com.
96 Moo 8, Vichit, 076-316-298. www.bandaraphuket.com.
The Rommanee Classic
Keemala Taking its inspiration from the early Phuket settlers, the resort’s 16 clay pool cottages, seven tent pool villas, seven two-story tree pool houses and eight bird’s nest pool villas are joined together by a network of jungle walkways. The romantic picture is completed by a lush canopy of trees and a continuous stream-like body of running
Bandara Resort
water that snakes its way through the hilly resort. Note that it’s not on the beach, but overlooks Kamala Village and the Andaman Sea.
Located right in Phuket’s Old Town, this a recently-opened Sino-Portuguese drugstore-turned-guesthouse combines heritage charm with all the mod cons. Guests can choose between four rooms styles decorated to represent different elements of the island’s culture, from vibrant Portuguese blues and yellows to sultry Chinese reds and blacks. 4 Krabi Rd., Phuket Town, 076-214-400.
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HOT SPOTS
SAMUI
Casa Lapin X Samui
Zuma Rooftop Kitchen and Bar
EAT Casa Lapin X Samui Casa Lapin dominates Bangkok’s hipster coffee scene, and this Samui branch offers up the same mix of industrial-tinged decor and quality single-origin brews. But here you’ll also find a few nautical touches as well as “beachier” drinks options like detox juices and fruity cocktails. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, it also serves a menu of locally caught seafood.
SAMUI
Fisherman’s Village, Bophut Beach, 081-7509244. Open daily 8am-10pm.
Zama Rooftop Kitchen and Bar
Giant Chesterfield sofas, rustic antique doors and tables and chairs made from wooden boards make for a cozy and romantic dining atmosphere at this Mediterranean restaurant run by a German chef. Must-try dishes include the jasmine tea-crusted tuna with Thai lime dressing, bloody Mary linguine river prawn and the savory-yet-sweet chilled mango soup with lychee granite.
Go for the rooftop views of Bophut Beach, stay for the delicious East-meets-West dishes like the Thai scotch egg (soft duck egg, Chiang Mai sausage and green mango salad) and veal cheek massaman curry. The restaurant is also home to a lounge area and a well-stocked poolside bar that is open all day long.
The Wharf Samui, 62/9 Moo 1, Bophut, 077-425-499. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight. www.barracuda-restaurant.com
14/3 Moo 4, Bophut, 077-246-362. Open daily 7am-11pm. www.zamasamui.com
Barracuda
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HOT SPOTS
SAMUI LUXURIOUS BEACH CLUBS
Beach Republic Baywater Resort Samui
Beach Republic Top tip from the islanders: Nikki Beach might be swankier, but this beach club sits on the nicest stretch of sand, taking over a prime spot on the sweeping Lamai Beach. The weekly Ultimate Sunday Brunch also offers a delicious, all-you can-eat spread of Mediterranean and Thai food, and there’s also a swanky new cigar lounge, Whisgars (see left). 176/34 Moo 4, Maret, 077-458-100. Open daily 7am-11pm. goo.gl/sSSGgG.
Coast Beach Bar & Grill
Cha Cha Moon
PLAY Whisgars
Coast Beach Bar & Grill The signature restaurant and bar at this new luxury resort turns out grilled seafood, steak and small tapas from a lively venue that welcomes lounge DJs in the daytime and upbeat electronic mixes after dark. We recommend you sit out on the terrace, where you can relax on deep sofas under shaded sail canopies.
countertops and brown-toned mid-century modern couches, visitors can wind down from Samui’s wild party scene.
Centara Grand Beach Resort Samui, 38/2 Moo 3, Bophut (Chaweng Beach), 077-230500. Open daily noon-10:30pm. www.coastsamui.com.
Baywater Resort Samui
Whisgars Beach Republic (see sidebar) is known for being one of the island’s more sophisticated beach clubs (fewer EDM-raving tourists, more expat hotel GMs on their day off), and this premium single-malt whiskey and cigar lounge with three branches in Bangkok fits right in. Surrounded by stone walls, marble
Beach Republic, 176/34 Moo 4, Maret, 077458-100. Open daily 8am-10pm. goo.gl/InVtlv
STAY Located on Choeng Mon Beach, one of the calmest and cleanest beaches on the island, this resort’s 100 rooms and villas go for a simple, modern look. The place is filled with neutral tones, with a pop of bright orange and blue for some added flair. Although rather basic, the resort’s facilities such as the on-site onsen spa, sky bar and well-equipped gym is what makes it stand out.
The latest beach club on nightlife central Chaweng Beach offers daybeds, a rustic-meets-tropical vibe and a refreshing playlist. Expect the party to carry on till well after sunset. 124/1 Moo 1, Bophut, 0089-651-2777. Open daily 3pm-3am. /goo.gl/nrlE8h.
Nikki Beach Koh Samui Located on the secluded Lipa Noi Beach, Nikki Beach is the place to hit up for a relaxing but boozy Sunday brunch. The Samui branch of the international party brand serves its Amazing Sunday Brunch right by the pool, facing the ocean. Laze around on the plush white sunbeds with a cocktail in hand, and choose bewteen the 40 dining options at the all-you-can-eat buffet. 96/3 Moo 2, Lipa Noi, 077-914-500. Open daily 11am-11pm. goo.gl/xeLAtL.
88/18 Moo 5, Bophut, 077-953-009. www. baywaterresort.com.
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HOT SPOTS
SAMUI
Six Senses Samui
Manathai Samui This boutique newcomer boasts colonial-style spiral staircases and elegant chandeliers with Thai touches in the form of teak, rattan and Jim Thompson silk cushions. The hotel also offers some pretty grand communal facilities, such as a beach-facing swimming pool and a kids’ club. Rooms range from a deluxe balcony (antique four-poster bed, marble bathroom, spacious balcony), to the 200-sq-meter Manathai Suite with two bedrooms, and separate living and dining areas. 173/41 Moo 4, Rob Koh Rd., Maret, 077-4585604. www.manathai.com/samui
Sheraton Samui Visitors are greeted with a beautiful panoramic view of the ocean through the lobby’s glass-encased balcony, before being escorted to one of the 141 luxury ocean-themed rooms. Each comes with either a view of the ocean or the resort’s garden. The resort also boasts two saltwater swimming pools, tennis courts, a 24-hour gym, plus four restaurants and bars. 86 Moo 3 Chaweng Noi Beach, Bophut, 077422-020. www.sheratonsamui.com
Six Senses Samui The renovation at this super-luxe resort has blessed it with some of Koh Samui’s most remarkable design statements. The
Manathai Samui
massive infinity pool that drops vertiginously as it overlooks the ocean is one of many highlights. Of all the understated, island-chic accommodation options, the Ocean View Pool Villas are the ones to go for. 9/10 Moo 5, Baan Plai Laem, Bophut, 077245-678. www.sixsenses.com
U Koh Madsum Forty minutes away from the main Koh Samui island, you’ll find possibly the cheapest private island luxury resort in Thailand. Home to 37 villas, this resort is so tucked away from everything that you won’t even find any cars, fast food chains or even private residences. Although some villas come equipped with a private pool, there are also two beautiful communal pools, a gym and a library.
Capri
U Koh Madsum
118 Moo 2, Taling Ngam, Koh Madsum, 077953-009. www.ukohmadsumsamui.com.
Capri Heading over to neighboring Koh Tao island? Don’t miss this new beachside Italian bistro, where an easygoing tropical-resort vibe meets with a classic menu of pizzas, pastas and antipasti. Or drop by for breakfast, when they put on a spread of freshly-baked pastries with views of the palm-lined sand. 19/9 Moo 3, Haadtien Beach, Koh Tao, Koh Samui. 077-745-6580. www.haadtien.com.
Sheraton Samui
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