Where® Thailand January 2013 by Where Thailand

PLUS

Thailand

j a n u a r y 2 0 13 the complete guide to go 速

速

Things

We Love About Thailand

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where

the guide

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contents where

l THAILAND l january 2013

The Guide

Bangkok

17 arts+Culture New exhibitions ranging from the influence of religion on Thai art to changes in Burma

19 dining Fusion dishes, traditional Thai and French bistros are all covered by three new openings

23 nightlife A new venue with a medicinal slant and the best rooftop bars in town

24 Health+Wellness A cooling new treatment and the best spas and beauty clinics

Features

26 SHOPS+Services An iconic mall reopens with an art-inspired theme and a series of exhibitions

05 l THE BEST OF siam We offer up our fifty favorite

28 Business Traveler

experiences in Thailand

Useful listings to support all of your potential business needs

29 Maps Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin

Escapes also inside

12 travel News

4 Hot dates

The latest deals, promotions

12 Managing Editor/Publisher Nick Measures Editor Top Koaysomboon General Manager James Fuss Managing Editor Grégoire Glachant Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapong

29 navigate

and events around the Kingdom

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

Marketing Manager Arunee Wilson Marketing Executive Natta Yantasri Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant

MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

Contributors Sol Lorenzo Benigno

Mvp | National Sales Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com

Mvp | Cartography And Circulation General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Cover by Panita Thiraphapong

Morris Comunications Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris Iii President William S. Morris Iv

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/WhereThailand @where_thailand

Mvp | Creative Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

Mvp | Technology & Manufacturing Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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Where hot dates JAN 10-14, 17-21

Survival Game Local independent stage group B-Floor Theatre were recently selected by British health R&D organization Wellcome Trust as Thailand’s representatives to produce a piece of art inspired by science for the worldwide “Art in Global Health” campaign curated by Danielle Olsen. Their performance, Survival Game, plays with the idea of evolution as necessary to survival. The show, directed by veteran directors/actors Teerawat Mulvilai and Nana Dakin, is set to be performed on Jan 10-14 and 17-21, 2013, at Pridi Bhanomyong Institute (65/1 Sukhumvit 55 [Thonglor], BTS Thong Lo). Reservations at www. bfloortheatre.com.

EVERY SUNDAY

JAN 23-FEB 3

The annual Sunday afternoon al fresco concerts return for their 20th year, with the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra playing classical pieces and popular favorites from movies and musicals right in the heart of the city’s main park. Featuring different guest vocalists every week, the early evening affairs are the perfect excuse to enjoy a late afternoon picnic, though do note alcohol is not officially allowed in the park. Free. Every Sunday through February, from 5:30pm. Sala Bhirom Bhakdi, Lumphini Park, 02255-6617/8. BTS Sala Daeng/MRT Silom. www.bangkoksymphony.org

Some of the world’s leading female tennis players such as former world number one Ana Ivanovic, Russian Maria Kirilenko and two-time winner Daniela Hatchenova are set to gather in Pattaya for the annual PTT Pattaya Open. The official World Tennis Association tournament, played on outdoor hard courts and now in its 22nd year, will take place over eight days with the singles and doubles finals set to be held on Sunday, February 3. Tickets are B500-1,200 and available from Thai Ticket Major (www.thaiticketmajor.com).

Concert in the Park

PTT Pattaya Open

JAN 12 JAN 12, Jan 19

The Vaccines and Snoop Dogg For those who want to catch some fresh live music during their stay here then you have two very different options available this month. First up, NME Magazine’s best new band of 2011, English indie rockers The Vaccines, will be performing tracks from their break out debut album What Did You Expect from the Vaccines? and their 2012 release Coming of Age at the Moonstar Studio (701 Soi Ladprao 80, www.moonstarstudio.co.th) on January 12 (gates open at 6pm. Tickets are B1,400, and B2,000 at the door). Meanwhile, a week later, one of the biggest names in hip hop, born again Rastafarian Snoop Lion, better known as Snoop Dogg will be performing his hits like “Drop it like its Hot,” and “Gin and Juice” as the headliner of the Together Festival at BITEC (Bang Na-Trat Rd., BTS Bang Na), on January 19. Tickets are B2,300-2,700. Tickets for both concerts are available from Thai Ticket Major (www. thaiticketmajor.com).

National Children’s Day Every year, the second Saturday of January is marked with Children’s Day in Thailand. Apart from a wide range of festive events being staged at shopping malls, parks and theme parks, the government also puts on special events designed to honor kids and give them the chance to experience places they might not normally be able to access. This year that will include the Government House (Phitsanuloke Rd.), where children will get the opportunity to sit on the Prime Minister’s chair, and the Royal Thai Air Force base at Don Muang (Viphavadirangsit Rd.), where they can enjoy a special free air show. Children can also access certain attractions like the Museum Siam (Sanamchai Rd., www.museumsiam.com) and ride the BTS for free, too.

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50 Things We Love About Thailand Our guide to the very best in the Land of Smiles.

Natural Wonders

Kirawat

Taking a train ride along the poignant Death Railway in Kanchanaburi and remembering all the POWs and Asian laborers who died during World War II constructing the famous Hells Pass and Bridge over the River Kwai. Once you’re done reflecting, make sure you take time to enjoy the natural beauty of the region with a trek in the Erawan national park or by catching a slow boat down the river.

kykub

Exploring the idyllic uninhabited tropical islands in the 102-sq-km Angthong Marine National Park, a mere twenty-minute boat ride from Koh Samui. Hop off your tour boat (try Samui Leisure 083-434-1882, 086883-3219, www.samuileisure.com) and hike up to the top of Koh Mae Koh Island to enjoy a panoramic view of the entire marine national park.

Snorkeling in the crystal clear waters off the beaches of Koh Tachai. Probably the hottest island in the Andaman Sea right now, it might be part of the famous Similan Marine National Park, the world’s top diving site, but it’s rather isolated location and the fact that it has only been open to the public for a few years mean it’s a relatively undiscovered gem, around 90 minutes by speedboat from Phuket.

Catching the setting sun from the cliff tops of Pha Taem National Park (www.dnp.go.th), in Ubon Ratchathani. Easy road access lets you drive up to the visitor center where a walking trail runs alongside a sheer cliff of layered, multi-colored rock and on towards the Mekong River. As well as its spectacular scenery, the park is best known for its odd rock formations caused by natural erosion and its prehistoric paintings located at the base of the cliffs dating from 3,000 to 4,000BC.

Getting up close to a gentle giant by volunteering for a day or staying overnight at the Elephant Nature Foundation (www. elephantnaturefoundation.org) in Mae Sa district, Chiang Mai. This charity provides a safe home to rescued elephants in the beautiful Mae Taeng Valley nature park. january 2013 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 5

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NUT Onaree

Staying overnight at one of the houseboat rafts on Cheow Larn Lake in the stunning Kao Sok National Park in Phangna province. This spectacular destination is home to the world’s oldest surviving evergreen rainforest and some of Thailand’s last wild tigers, while the man-made reservoir in the heart of the park offers the impressive sight of countless limestone pinnacles rising up out of the clear water.

Sipping a warm cup of coffee while looking out over the mist at Moncham, the lush hilltop plateau situated within the Nong Hoi Royal Project in Chiang Mai. Get up early to see the sun rise or stay overnight at the Camping Resort in one of their bamboo huts and dine on meals cooked fresh using Royal Project ingredients.

Food and Drink

Witnessing the deconstructed delights of the Thai cuisine on offer at Sra Bua (1/F, Siam Kempinski, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000), the sister restaurant from the Michelin-starred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen. From the frozen red curry ice cream with lobster and lychee served in liquid nitrogen to the tom yam separated into a simple soup to be sipped with bite-sized herb jellies, this is Thai food like you’ve never experienced before.

Learning how to whip up some authentic Thai food and supporting a worthwhile local charity at the Helping Hands Cooking School run by Chef Saiyuud “Poo” Diwong (084-901-8717. www.cookingwithpoo. com). The school offers a one-day (B1,000/person) workshop that includes selecting your ingredients from the fresh market. It’s not easy to find but there’s free transport from Emporium Suites (BTS Phrom Phong). the money raised goes to help the local slum children.

11 08 Diving with the elusive whale sharks at Richelieu Rock, a famed diving spot located close to the Surin Islands, a two-hour boat ride from Khao Lak. The rest of the chain of five islands offers shallow water reefs, which are great for snorkeling while the islands are home to some of the last surviving communities of Moken (sea gypsies).

Drinking in the Dickensian delights of real-life fairy factory and bar Iron Fairies (394 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 084-425-8080). Crumbling blackened brick walls and a scattering of ancient, heavy-looking industrial machinery occupy much of the darkened shophouse while strong cocktails and great live bands add to the unique atmosphere.

Dining on fresh, catch-of-theday seafood at the seafront restaurants on Arunothai Beach in Chumphon, Southern Thailand.

Getting messy while enjoying the mountainous portion of the kradook moo aob (B380), delicious chili glazed baby back ribs, offered at Chef Ian Kittichai’s Issaya Siamese Club (4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., Bangkok, 02-672-9040-1. www. issaya.com. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 6pm-midnight). Fall-off-the-bone tender and decadently sticky and sweet they even manage to surpass the inspired traditional desserts of this inventive Thai restaurant, set in a beautiful and bright old mansion.

14 Laying back on the crisp white sheets to enjoy the inventive food, and cuttingedge performances in Bed Supperclub’s (26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. BTS Nana) White Room, before heading to the night club section next door to dance to the hottest DJs while rubbing shoulders with Bangkok’s beautiful people.

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Drinking in the cityscape view from the al fresco bar of Park Society (www.sofitel.com) on top of the swanky new Sofitel So Hotel overlooking Lumpini Park.

Enjoying tasty street eats from the numerous stalls to be found in China Town’s Yaowarat Road. For typical Chinese restaurants, hop onto Padsai Road where you’ll find old favorites like Yim Yim (02-224-2205), New Kwang Meng (02-224-2201) and Tang jai Yoo (02-224-2167). For seafood, look for two outdoor eateries at the intersection of Soi Texas: both are good and cheap.

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Indulging in a spot of High Tea at the Mandarin Oriental’s Author’s Lounge (www.mandarinoriental. com/bangkok) while enjoying its rich history and the five-star service.

Slurping up a bowl of authentic Hokkien Noodles in the heart of Phuket’s historic old town. Try Mee Ton Poh (214/7 Phuket Rd., 076216-293, open daily 10am-6pm), a popular haunt for those who can’t get enough of this traditional dish of fried yellow noodles with pork (or seafood) and vegetables topped off with a fresh egg.

19 Discovering Michelin-star-worthy, traditional Thai dishes at Nahm (G/F, Metropolitan, 27, South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333), where Chef David Thompson serves up a fiery mulicourse set menu.

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23 Hotels & Resorts

Deciding which fragrance we want for our room at The Scent Hotel on Bophut Beach in Koh Samui (www. thescenthotel.com). This delightful 15-room hotel offers rooms exquisitely finished in European, Chinese and local Thai styles.

Taking the shade under the twohundred year old tamarind tree amid the Lanna inspired architecture of artsy boutique resort Tamarind Village (www.tamarindvillage.com), ideally situated right next door to the popular Sunday Walking Market in the heart of Chiang Mai.

Luxuriating in the sheer scale and comfort of the 1,600-sq-meter, ocean-front Royal Horizontal Pool Villa Suite at The Naka Island (www. thenakaisland.com), which also boasts its own 546-square-meter infinity pool that wraps around the stunning twobedroom villa.

Traveling back in time with a stay at the Le Meridien Koh Samui (www.lemeridien.com) on Lamai Beach, designed to represent a vintage Chinese village, complete with sumptuous rooms and villas clad in classical Oriental details.

24 Escaping from the bustle of the city with a short boat ride to the Bangkok Tree House (www. bangkoktreehouse.com): a series of boxy, modern villas finished with mirrors, wood and bamboo, that are hidden away among the verdant serenity of Phra Pradeng, also known as the green lung of Bangkok.

Absorbing the history at 137 Pillars House (www.137pillarshouse.com), the former residence of the director of the British East Borneo Company and now a classy colonial style boutique hotel featuring a cluster of 30 suites surrounding a hundred-year-old Lanna teak house.

Being one of the first to enjoy the achingly-cool style of the W Bangkok (www.whotels.com), the latest addition to one of the hippest global hotel chains around. Only opened last December, the futuristic and fabulous interiors filled with mirrors, glitter and LED lighting are already the talk of the town.

Admiring the authentic collectibles and the Art Deco inspired style created by famous architect Bill Bensley at The Siam (www.thesiamhotel.com), one of the newest and most charming boutique resorts in town.

Staying at one of the three Balineseinspired pavilions at Asajara (www. asajararesort.com), in Ratchaburi, and dining by the traditional Ayutthayastyle home. The carefully manicured property slopes towards a stream behind which the mountains forming the border with Burma can be seen. Incredibly quiet, peaceful and verdant.

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feature Where Y Recreation

Learning to kite surf on Hua Hin Beach in Prachuab Khirikhan, one of the best spots in Asia for this exciting sport thanks to the shallow water, long flat beach and strong winds all year round. For lessons and equipment try www. kiteboardingasia.com.

30 Playing 18 holes on the challenging but beautiful championship level golf course at the Mission Hills Golf Club (www. missionhillsphuket.com) in Phuket.

34 Spending a night camped out under the stars before making an early morning trek to see the sunrise at the top of Phu Kradueang in Loei. This spectacular plateau is one of Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous hiking sites. Accommodation options are limited so book ahead at 042-871222/458, www.dnp.go.th.

THE SMALL, CHIANGMAI

148- 150 Ta Pae Rd. Amphur Muang, Chiangmai 50000 Thailand Tel. +66 53 235 866-7 Fax: +66 53 235 868

info@thesmallhotelgroup.com / www.thesmallhotelgroup.com

THE SMALL, KRABI

Testing your mountaineering skills by tackling the numerous climbing trails that utilize the towering limestone karsts of Railay in Krabi. Try Sea Cliffs climbing school (084-629-2173, www. railayrockclimbing.com).

Taking a bicycle tour around the floating market, lush plantations, and crumbling temples of Bang Krajao. For guided tour, try www.spiceroads.com.

167 Moo 3, Tambon Ao Nang, Amphur Muang, Krabi 81000 Thailand Tel. +66 75 661 590-2 Fax. +66 75 661 593

info@thesmallhotelgroup.com / www.thesmallhotelgroup.com

KRABI LA PLAYA RESORT

33 Getting a glimpse of what Bangkok used to be like with a klong tour around the canals (klongs) of Thonburi. Try the Klong Guru private charter with English-speaking guide and meal (B4,900, 02-476-0022).

143 Moo 3, Tambon Ao Nang, Amphur Muang, Krabi 81000 Thailand Tel: +66 75 637 015-20, +66 75 637 500 Fax: +66 75 661 323

info@krabilaplaya.com / www.krabilaplaya.com

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Culture

Escaping the stresses of modern living at a one of Thailand’s many meditation centers. Try the Dipabhavan Meditation Center on Koh Samui or its sister center, the Buddhadasa Indapanno Archives located within the lush Vachirabenchathat Park in Bangkok (www.bia.or.th, facebook.com/ suanmokkhbangkok).

Admiring the work of established and emerging contemporary Thai and international artists at the Guggenheim-inspired Bangkok Art and Culture Center (BTS National Stadium, www.bacc.or.th) whose eleven floors host regular exhibitions and seminars and are also home to art-related shops and cafes.

35 Offering alms to Thai monks in the morning mist of Chiang Khan in Loei.

Wandering past exquisitely crafted models of gold-gilded pavilions and royal barges, embroidered silk screens and more at the Arts of the Kingdom (www.artsofthekingdom.com) exhibition at the Anantasamakhom Thone Hall in Bangkok, which preserves and celebrates traditional craft techniques.

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Walking Phuket Town’s heritage trail and experiencing the unique Baba-Nyonya architecture. You can pick up the excellent Phuket Town Treasure Map at the Tourist Information Center on Thalang Rd. or at the Tai Hua Museum (Krabi Rd., www.thaihuamuseum.com).

Catching a free, traditional Thai puppet show at Baan Silapin a Bangkok artist’s community that attempts to preserve and remember traditional ways of life. Visit as part of your klong tour along Klong Bang Luang. (02-868-5279, thaipuppeteer@gmail.com )

Exploring the former residence of secret agent and silk tycoon, Jim Thompson House (BTS National Stadium, www. jimthompsonhouse.com) a complex of Thai teak houses packed with Asian antiques. It is also home to a shop, restaurant and an exhibition space.

Experiencing the eerie beauty of Wat Rong Khun (aka The White Temple), a masterpiece by Thai national artist Chalernchai Kositpipat, in Chiang Rai.

Getting a different perspective on the history of Thailand with a visit to the interactive exhibitions of the Museum Siam (Entry B300. Samnachai Rd. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www. museumsiam.com).

Getting a tension relieving Thai massage at the spiritual home of the art, Wat Pho in Bangkok, which is also home to the famous 46m reclining Buddha. (www.watpho.com)

44 Getting a different perspective on the history of Asia through a series of colorful and sophisticated floral displays at the Museum of Floral Culture (www. facebook.com/fansofsakulintakul) in Bangkok.

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45 Staying up late, or getting up early, to experience the chaos of the daily flower trading at Pak Klong Talat, Thailand’s largest flower market.

Shopping for unique vintage finds, sipping candy-colored cocktails and mingling with Bangkok’s hipsters all in an extremely laidback atmosphere at Talat Rodfai (Open Fri-Sun, 4pm-midnight. MRT Kamphaeng Phet).

50 Getting lost in the maze of alleys at Chatuchak Weekend Market (BTS Mo Chit/MRT Kamphaeng Phet), home to everything from the latest local fashion by young designers to modern Thai art, furniture, tasty local food and cute pets, all at affordable prices.

Browsing for the finest Thai silks at the various silk stores in Bangkok. Try Almeta Silk (Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-204-1413, www. almeta.com)

Checking out the cool stores, restaurants and bars, and the new Asiatique Sky Ferris wheel, at the retro-inspired, open-air riverside mall Asiatique the Riverfront (www.thaiasiatique.com).

Browsing the high-end fashion and cutting-edge collections from Thai and international designers at Bangkok’s fashion central, Siam and Ratchaprasong districts (BTS Siam-Chidlom), packed with hip shops and world-class shopping malls.

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Where ESCAPES

Bo Sang

Chiang Mai

Cultural Parasols

Dasada Gallery

Prachinburi

Flower Power Winter is the best time to catch the flowers in full bloom in Thailand, but not everybody has the chance to travel up North to see them in their natural surroundings—which is where the Floral Coral Flower Exhibition at Dasada Gallery (179 Moo 12, Prachine-Khaoyai Rd., Nernhom, Muang, Prachinburi, 090-198-7583, www.dasada-happiness. com) comes in. This giant glasshouse set against the backdrop of the greenery of Khao Yai, is just a few hours’ drive from Bangkok. Now in its eighth year, the current exhibition runs until February 17 and is divided into three separate installations that each take their inspiration from the ocean. The first display ended in December so you are getting to see the second, entitled “Underwater Christmas,” which lasts until January 31, and is headlined by a Santa Claus’s ship made up of thousands of flowers. It all ends with the “Pink Ocean” flower exhibition to celebrate the month of love during February 1-17. For more information, visit Dasada’s website or contact TAT Nakhon Nayok, 037-312-282/284, www.facebook.com/ tatnayokfans.

Belgian Beer Cafe

According to tradition, Bo Sang district in Chiang Mai is where the colorful, Northern -style umbrellas made from bamboo and paper then finished with colorful paints, and now seen all over Thailand, originated from. To celebrate their status as the major producer of these ornate souvenirs, residents of Bo Sang hold a festival every year on the third weekend of January. Now in its 29th year, Bo Sang Umbrella and Sankampaeng Handcraft Festival will take place between January 18-20 and will showcase handmade umbrellas, as well as a range of other local crafts and cultural activities such as the Miss Bo Sang Pageant. There’s no entry fee but Bo Sang is approximately 10km from Chiang Mai so you will need to arrange transport. More information at 053-338-048.

Sukhothai

Khon Kaen

Vintage Bazaar

Run for Fun

The northern province of Sukhothai, home to the UNESCO World Heritage historical park, has recently revived the Rim Yom Market every first Saturday of the month. This former trading site on the banks of the Yom River in Kong Krai Lat district, was originally where the Sukothai civilization traded with Chinese merchants from Ayuthaya. This new reincarnation of the market is called Talad Rim Yom 2437, to mark the Buddhist year 2437 B.E. (1894) when the market was at its peak. To make getting there on market day easier the Tourism Authority of Thailand Sukhothai Office organizes a free transfer from its headquarters (130 Charot Withi Thong Rd., Mueang, Sukhothai, 055-616-228/9) leaving at 5pm returning at 7:30pm.

This January 27 will see the 10th running of the Khon Kaen International Marathon and the event has come a long way since its inaugural running. Held in the Northeast of Thailand’s biggest city it now sees over 50,000 runners from around the world participating in four different races, ranging from a fun run (4.5km) to a fully competitive marathon (42km), ensuring there’s something for both amateur and professional runners. However, do be warned if you are thinking of entering at the last minute, the events start as early as 4:15am so it’s not for those who like their beauty sleep. For more information contact 043-24 4-498/9, www. khonkaenmarathon.com/en.

MYANMAR

Chiang Ma

Sukhot

ANDAMAN SEA

Krab Phuket

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INDON

ESCAPES Where Y NEW ROOM W Bangkok

The 407-room W Bangkok finally unveiled its completed look early this month. The futuristic design is befitting of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Group’s most fashionable brand with lots of mirrors, dark hues, glittering details and purple accents. Chic travelers might want to take a seat amid the ambercolored décor inspired by monitor lizards at signature restaurant The Kitchen Table (2/F), headed by Chef

Sarah Briegel, before downing some molecular cocktails by mixologist Bas Petchapradit at WOOBAR (1/F). Next to the hotel’s modern main structure sits the former Russian embassy, a colonial-style building that’s being transformed into an as-yet-unnamed luxury dining venue and a cluster of four duplex suites scheduled to open in March. Sathorn Rd., Bangkok, 02-3444000. www.whotels.com/bangkok

Krabi

Ao Nang’s Newbie The latest resort to open in Ao Nang, Krabi’s tourist central, is the Holiday Inn Resort Krabi Ao Nang Beach (Nopparat Thara Beach, Ao Nang, Krabi, 075-810000, www.holidayinresorts.com/krabi). Rebranded from the giant-size Sala Talay Resort, which opened in 2008, the resort currently features 55 rooms and suites with minimal furnishings, raw cement, natural wood and green hues, with another 133 rooms to be finished next year. It’s not set right on the beach, as there’s a road in-between, but you can still enjoy picturesque views of the sea. The re-launch rates start from B3,400 AiRlines

Sabaidee Vientiane

MYANMAR

NDAMAN SEA

Starting from last December, Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com) became the third airline to operate direct flights between Bangkok and Vientiane, the capital city of Laos, following THAI Airways and Lao Airlines. The 1.15-hour flight will be made by a 138-seat Airbus 319. There’s only one flight per day for now, leaving from Suvarnabhumi VIETNAM Airport at 8:15am, and LAOS returning from Chiang Mai Vientiane Vientiane’s Wattay Airport at 10am. Sukhothai Fares start from Khon Kaen B2,990 roundtrip, Bangkok Prachinburi exclusive of taxes and surcharge (an extra B2,900).

Chiang Mai

THAILAND Bangkok Rayong

GULF OF SIAM

Samui

Krabi

Phang Nga

Phuket

SOUTH CHINA SEA MALAYSIA

INDONESIA

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Phuket

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Where ESCAPES Samui

Reading Room Following the launch of its new dining venue Drink Gallery last year, The Library Koh Samui (Chaweng Beach, Samui, 077-422-767, www.thelibrary.co.th) now introduces a giant 102-sq-meter Bookmark Suite, furnished with minimal-chic furnishings and red accents similar in style (if not scale) to the other 26 studios and suites. This flagship suite sits closest to the beach so promises a great ocean view as well as close proximity to the hotel’s famed red pool. Rates are from B22,000.

Foto Hotel

Phuket

Classy Arrival

The Library

Phuket

Belgian Brews The expansion of Phuket Graceland Resort and Spa (190 Thaweewong Rd., Patong Beach, Phuket, 076-370-500. www. phuketgraceland.com) has also heralded the arrival of the Brussels-based pub chain Belgian Beer Café. It’s the chain’s 53rd branch worldwide and the very first in Thailand. We had a beer with Thomas Leclercq, CEO of Third Place, the chain’s franchise consultant, who said, “We try to represent the good-old-days atmosphere of a bar in the Belgian countryside in the 1930s. But this is not a bar—we aim to be a restaurant, so the focus is on food and the beers that complement it.” Discerning drinkers can try more than 50 kinds of Belgian beer, from the ubiquitous Hoegaarden and Stella Artois to rarer finds like Kriek and De Kninck.

The Regent Phuket Cape Panwa (84 Moo 8 Sakdidej Rd., Vichit, Muang, Phuket, 076200-800. www.regenthotels.com/phuket) is the latest resort to arrive on this popular island getaway. Located on the beachfront of the more peaceful south-eastern side of Phuket, it is close to established luxury resorts like Cape Panwa Resort, Radisson Blu and Sri Panwa. The resort houses 105 rooms, suites and villas, each of which offers a panoramic sea view from the balcony. “Winter to Remember” rates start from B8,500 through Feb 28, 2013. A minimum two-night stay is required. Phuket

New Trees Another new property on Phuket, though just a rebrand, is the 80-room DoubleTree Resort by Hilton Phuket – Surin Beach (Surin Beach, Phuket, 076-303-300, www. doubletree.com), formerly the Courtyard by Marriott Surin Beach. It’s Thailand’s first, and Southeast Asia’s second, DoubleTree Resort, which is part of the Hilton Worldwide hotel group and has more than 300 locations worldwide. With some impressive pools and a good kids club it’s very children friendly. It’s also only a fiveminute walk to the relatively secluded and picturesque Surin Beach, though after dark things do warm up thanks to the presence of the fashionable and happening Catch Beach Club (www.catchbeachclub.com) by Twin Palms Hotel. For this high season, rates start from B3,750 for weekday stays.

Phuket

Photogenic Hotel We recently came across Foto Hotel (218/9 Kata-Saiyuan Rd., Kata Beach, Karon, Muang, 076-680-0900, www. fotohotelphuket.com), a one-and-a-halfmonth old resort in Phuket scattered up a hill overlooking Kata Beach. The property is a member of The Attitude Club, a Phuketbased property developer which also owns Blu Monkey Hostel in Phuket town. Inspired by the science of photography, this 79room, Modernist-inspired hotel is finished in 18%-grey, a color pro photographers use for perfect exposure and white balance. There’s a restaurant, spa, gym and an infinity swimming pool that looks gorgeous. You can choose between two room types: a garden-view Ozone or a sea-view Ocean room. For an introductory period, rates are from B4,500 per night with breakfast. But if you book through online agents like Agoda (www.agoda.com), Expedia (www.expedia. com) and Asia Rooms (www.asiarooms. com), rates are from as little as B2,999.

Regent Phuket

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ART

Siam App This multimedia exhibition featuring 50 different works looks to provide an appreciation of Thai art and explore how it has been inherited and developed by a new wave of contemporary artists who have taken their inspiration from Thai heritage, and specifically the strong influence of Buddhism and folk art traditions. Through Feb 17, 2013. Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630. BTS National Stadium.

arts + CULTURE......................................16-17 dining........................................................20-23 nightlife.........................................................24

Business traveler....................................25 health + wellness...........................26-27 shops + services.................................28-29

navigate........................................................ 30 maps........................................................... 30-34

Note that the reference at the end of the listings (WS24, ZD3, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 30-34. Listings without coordinates indicate locations not within the maps. january 2013 I WHER E tha i l a n d 15

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Arts+Culture

Art Exhibition Highlights

Burma 2012 — In the midst of all the international focus on a reforming Burma, this three-person photographic display documents the country from 1989 to the present day. It includes the work of Australian Philip Blenkinsop, one of Thailand’s best-known resident photographers, recognised for his gritty raw imagery. Last year he opened this quirky work studio and exhibition space in a renovated shop-house in Chinatown. By appointment only. Through Mar 7. 2snakestudio, 31/33 Soi Nana, Maitri Chit Rd., 0860121972.

In Spite of Order — This second solo exhibition from Sopheap Pich sees the artist trying to find a connection between the innate qualities and encoded meanings of materials. This time he presents pieces made from natural elements like bamboo, rattan, burlap and earth pigments, along with early experimental works. Through Jan 27. H Gallery, 201 Sathorn Nua Soi 12, 085021-5508.

Hear Here — In a world teeming with noise, people often fail to appreciate the deeper beauty of sounds. This exhibition aims to amplify the perception of ordinary sounds in extraordinary ways to refresh people’s attitudes towards daily life. Through Feb 10, Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), Rama 1 Rd., 02214-6630. BTS National Stadium. YM16

ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY — With a prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-684-1527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20 GOSSIP GALLERY — This multifaceted space showcases contemporary pieces from both local and international artists. 3/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-2375568. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. gossipgallerybkk72.com XI10 THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC)— Home to a large art library, and host to temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-6648488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www.tcdc.or.th ZC4

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes. 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-2815360/1. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. www. queengallery.org WS27 NATIONAL GALLERY — Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd., 02-281-2224, 02-282-2639-40. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www.nationalgallery.go.th WQ27 H GALLERY — Set in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions representing emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201, Sathorn Soi 12, 081-310-4428. BTS Surasak. Open WedMon 10am-6pm. www.hgallerybkk.com XH11 V64 — More than 60 artists from Chatuchak Weekend Market teamed up to transform a three-acre space into a large art center, which features studios, a gallery, an art academy, shop and restaurant. 143/19 Chaengwattana Soi 1 Yak 6, Bhangkhen. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.v64artstudio.com SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — More of a shop than a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai artworks. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040. Open daily 9am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www. sombatpermpoongallery.com XL21

Silom galleria — This large mall hosts a range of modern Asian art under one roof. Highlight galleries include: Tang Contemporary Art, which covers modern Chinese art, and Thavibu Gallery, which features works by Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-2665454. The mall is open daily 10am-8pm, though some galleries have different opening times. XI10

MUSEUMS JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. www. jimthompsonhouse.com YM15 NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most extraordinary architecture, art and antiques in the country. Na Phrathat Rd., 02-215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. B50. www.nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th WQ27

tcdc

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Arts+Culture New Museum of Floral Culture —

siam ocean world — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. Highlights include the underwater tunnel, penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour. Basement, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.,02687-2000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm. B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17

MUSEUM SIAM — This completely restored colonial-style building is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-2252777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. B300. www. museumsiam.com WQ23

attractions

Founded by one of Thailand’s leading florists, Sakul Intakul, this museum tells the story of how geography, tradition, and beliefs have influenced the handling and presentation of flowers, and in turn, how these have affected the course of history. Samsen Soi 28, Dusit, 02-669-3633/4. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Tours in English run daily at 11am. B150.

Madame Tussauds — The famous wax work museum makes it to Bangkok and features a star studded line up of incredibly life-like movie stars, politicians and sportsmen drawn from all over the world. 6/F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama I Rd., 02-658-0060. Open daily 10am-9pm. Tickets B800 adults, B600 children over 5. BTS Siam. YM16 Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) — Sat on the river’s edge the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmerstyle tower) is decorated with millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arun Amarin Rd. Wat Arun Pier. WP22

museum siam

Wat traimit Wittayaram — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm.

Wall paintings at wat phra kaeo

Grand palace and Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace is Wat Phra Kaeo, home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. Also, don’t miss the exquisite mural wall paintings. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. Free tours in English available at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm. B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25

SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household features eight Thai-style houses that showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period along with prehistoric relics from Baan Chiang. 02-354 Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02246-1775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www.suanpakkad. com

KIDs Flow House — If you’re missing the beach, then why not go surfing in the middle of the city? That’s what this latest attraction offers, thanks to a special machine which gives a similar experience to riding a real wave. Flow House also features bars, restaurants and retail shops specializing in water sports gear. Lessons are available for novices and prices cover board hire, use of showers and towels. Sukhumvit Soi 26. Open Sun-Thu 8am-11pm; Fri-Sat 8ammidnight. Prices start from B550 per hour. www.flowhousebangkok.com Funarium—This giant indoor soft play area is a great option for those parents looking for somewhere safe for their children to blow off some steam. Offering painting, crafts, bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas, there’s plenty for the kids to do. 111/1 Sukhumvit 26, 02-665-6555. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 8:30am-8:30pm. B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults for three hours. www. funarium.co.th

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dining Gossip

Gossip sees Chef Julien Lavigne, who also heads the kitchen of the popular Oskar Bistro on Sukhumvit 11, doing his most personal cooking yet, combining his Franco-Italian heritage with what he’s learnt during his years spent in Thailand. The space consists of rustic chairs, tufted couches, and panels of glass framed in black aluminum. The menu is a global mix of flavors with nods to the Mediterranean, Japan and Thailand such as the arancini (rice ball fritters filled with mozzarella, B110) and seared red tuna (B560) and classic French and Italian options, like the morel cep risotto (B360). Behind the bar, the drinks have great texture with some bordering on desserts, like the chilled, foamy Racyrose, a mix of lychee, lemongrass and passion fruit with rose flavors. And with its outdoor seating, Gossip works just as well as a bar and a restaurant. Thonglor Soi 15, 02-185-3093. BTS Thong Lo. ZA6

DOWNTOWN NEW Le Beaulieu — French. $$$$ Chef Herve Frerard has returned to Bangkok’s dining scene with his mix of hearty, rustic options like the baked morteau sausage served with a rich tomato lentil sauce and terrine de pot au feu alongside bistro classics like bouillabaisse and sole meunière. It’s simple dishes using high quality ingredients imported direct from France or making the most of the chef’s involvement with the Royal Projects. G/F, Athénée Office Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02168-8220-3 www.le-beulieu.com YM21

Pick D’Sens — French. $$$$ The Frenchimported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers has all the oomph one might expect. The dimly-lit dining room has a view of Lumphini Park, and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000 ext. 2499. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10pm. XF10 Erawan tea room — Thai. $$$$ With a classy oriental décor, five-star service and a fine tea selection, Erawan Tea Room also impresses with its authentic Thai dishes and monthly-themed menus. 2/F, Erawan Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02254-1234. Open daily 10am-10pm. YN18 Eat Me — International. $$$$ The décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic. The kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 3pm-1am. XG11

Gianni Ristorante — Italian. $$$$ “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, has earned its following with consistently outstanding food, an elegant atmosphere and smooth service. 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-652-2922. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm. YM20

Pick Gaggan — Indian. $$$$ After a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and some wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02-652-1700. BTS Chit Lom. 6pmmidnight. YO19 Jim Thompson Bar & Restaurant — Thai. $$$ Located in the former home of Siamese silk expert Jim Thompson, the open-air restaurant by a small lotus pond and its air-conditioned dining room serve up authentic Thai food and simple Western dishes. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, 02-612-3601. www.jimthompson.com. Open daily 9am-5pm, 7-11pm. BTS National Stadium. YM15

NEW KISARA — Japanese. $$$$ Stylishly simple in design, this restaurant allows the food to take center stage. Choose from top-quality sushi, sashimi, teppanyaki and kaiseki options, and wash it down with their extensive sake collection. 3/F, The Conrad Hotel, 87 Witthayu Rd., 02-6909999. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6-11pm. YN21

Pick issaya siamese club — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef Ian Kittichai returns to his home country with this restaurant, set in a delightful wooden mansion and featuring inventive twists on classic Thai recipes. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., Sathorn Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Area guide Downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods Lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

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dining La Monita Taqueria — Mexican. $$ Handsdown the best place for a quesadilla or fish taco. The décor and service aren’t much, but you won’t care after your third Reposado Margarita. Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloenchit Rd., 02-6509581. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am10pm. YM21

Lower Sukhumvit

Pick

11 Gallery — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1

Pick

Above Eleven — Fusion. $-$$ The twist of this rooftop bar and restaurant, apart from a great city view, is a concept that focuses on Nikkei cuisine: a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. 32/F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-9300. www.aboveeleven.com ZA1

Nahm — Thai. $$$$ Former holder of a Michelin star, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open daily noon-2pm, 7-11pm. XG13

Niu’s — Italian. $$$$ Muted tones, crisp white tablecloths and large windows let the inventive and delicious Italian food take center stage. Niu’s also has an extensive wine list and often hosts top-name jazz acts downstairs. Baan Silom, 661 Silom Rd., 02-266-5333. Open daily 5pm-1am. XI10

Ruen Urai — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house, decorated with a blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, it offers a polished menu of solid recipes. Rose Hotel, 188, Surawong Rd., 02266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. XF8 Somtam Der — Thai. $$-$$$ Yards from the bustle of Silom Rd., this new spot brings typical street food into a more upmarket setting. The menu has a focus on somtam, a spicy Thai papaya salad, and other classic Northeastern dishes. Their martinis are a highlight. 5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-6324499. Open daily 11am-10pm. XF11

ROSAbieng — Thai. $-$$ This two-story wooden house-turned-restaurant is a great place for those seeking an introduction to Thai food, thanks to its broad menu of properly executed dishes. 3 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-253-5868. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm. ZB1 Rossini’s — Italian. $$$$ Chef Stefano Merio works closely with Michelin-star chef Alfredo Russo from Turin to deliver contemporary Italian cuisine with perfect wine pairings. Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8364. BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit. Open Mon-Fri noon2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. Sat 6:30-daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm. ZC2

Y SPoTLIGHT

Brasserie 9

Decorated with a mix of prominent timber beams, hanging lamps and a feature wall displaying an old-fashioned world map, this imitation warehouse has got one of the best spots in Asiatique—right by the river. Expect classic French dishes like pan fried frog legs in garlic butter and fresh herbs (B380), or Charolais entrecote with vegetables (B980). There’s also a bar menu which offers a long list of small dishes like homemade country terrine with Cumberland sauce (B250) and a daily happy hour from 5-7pm. Brasserie 9, Room Warehouse 9., Asiatique The River Front, Charoen Nakhon, 02-108-4288. BTS Krung Thon Buri.

Pick Sra bua — Thai. $$$$ Sister of Michelin-starred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen offers Thai food with an almost molecular twist in a soaring, glittering palace dotted with fake rice fields. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-11pm. YL17 Zense — International. $$$$ The rooftop dining venue of Zen Department Store has reopened with an all-new look and a striking view of downtown Bangkok. Taste dishes from five kitchens courtesy of five famous restaurants. 17/F, Zen, CentralWorld, 02-100-9898. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.zensebangkok.com YN19

zense

Pick Zuma — Japanese. $$$$ Their generous salads mix avocado and fresh sushi. The bar is made from a single, monumental slab of stone and the garden is air-conditioned. It’s all wonderfully glamorous. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-636-0002. Open Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm. YN18

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dining Pick Seafood Bar — Seafood. $$$ Owned by an oyster importer, this restaurant features 20 types of oysters and a range of perfectly grilled fish dishes cooked with a modern American approach. Somerset Lake Place, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02663-8863, Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun noon-3pm, 6-10pm. BTS Asok. ZD3

Upper Sukhumvit Bacco — Italian. $$$ This relaxed, slightly rustic eatery packs in the diners nightly, thanks to its extensive menu of authentic regional specialities. 35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-662-4538. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pmmidnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-midnight. ZC6

Pick Bo.Lan — Thai. $$$$ Chefs Bo and Dylan offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a charming house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes to reflect the seasons. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-2602962. Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pm-midnight. ZD5 L’Appart — French. $$$-$$$$ Imagine a grand Parisian apartment, which means parquet floors, rich burgundy wallpaper and lots of marble. The food is French cuisine with Thai touches. There’s also a full bar but a particular focus on Champagne cocktails. 32/F Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 13 and 15), 02-1269999. Open daily 5pm-midnight. www.sofitel. com ZB2

Pick ISao — Japanese. $$$-$$$$ Despite the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something different—Japanese cuisine with distinctly American twists, thanks to the chef’s apprenticeship at the Green Tea sushi bar in Chicago. 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645/6. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm. ZC4

Ruen Mallika — Thai. $$$ Set in a small sub-soi off from Sukhumvit 22, the nicely-decorated two-story restaurant is nestled in a peaceful garden. The huge menu of Thai classics utilizes homegrown vegetables and herbs and doesn’t hold back on the chili. Soi Sainamthip 3, Sukhumvit Soi 22, open daily 11am-11pm. www.ruenmallika. com Smith — International. $$$$ Set in a former furniture warehouse, it’s decked out in an elegant industrial theme, with walls lined with butcher’s tools. Chef Peter Pitakwong’s menu focuses on two things: locally-sourced ingredients and noseto-tail cooking. 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-2610515. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. ZC5

Pick The Local — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef and co-owner Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find traditional recipes. They’re all served in a beautiful hundredyear-old house. There are cooking lessons every Wednesday, too. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm

Indus — Indian. $$$ An ambient spot with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual north Indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:3010:30pm. ZE5 Near Equal — Thai. $$-$$$ A new location for a long-term favorite in a charming house down a lovely leafy street. Upstairs the wood floors and antique pieces make for a delightful spot to enjoy well-balanced Thai dishes; then head downstairs to browse the selection of Thai furniture and handicrafts on sale. 22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02258-1565. ZC5

Mr. Jones’ Orphanage — Bakery. $$ This quirky pastry venue combines elements of country kitchen, Catholic church and Santa’s workshop. The focus is firmly on baked sweets, including the intriguingly named Chocky Mud Pie and Custard Cow’s Poo. G/F SeenSpace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, Bangkok, 02-185-2378. ZB6

Pick Phuket town — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches. Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. ZC6

Pick Quince — International. $$$ Quince’s country-classic theme goes for a casual and rustic ambiance that’s part industrial part Spanish villa. The kitchen’s focus is all about sustainability, ethical eating and local produce with impressive, down-to-earth home cooking and a ‘market’ menu that changes frequently. Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. Open daily 6-10pm. www. quincebangkok.com

THONGLOR/EKKAMAI 4 Garcons — French. $$$ Cooked by a Thai doctor, this classic French fare is served in a warm and elegant atmosphere. 1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-713-9547. Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm. ZB6 Bonjour — French. $$$$ Fine French dishes served in a bourgeois villa that boasts velvet lounge chairs and a small tropical garden. 1217/2 Sukhumvit Soi 59, 02-714-2112. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-1am. ZC6

isao

Khun Kling pak sod — Thai. $$ Another single-room family-run eatery, they serve up unapologetically fiery and authentic Southern Thai cuisine. Thonglor Soi 5, 02-185-3977. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-9:30pm. ZC6

Harvey — American, International. $$$$ A very popular spot with the town’s movers and shakers, the food encompasses modern interpretations of American, French and Italian cuisine. 129 Thonglor Soi 9, 02-712-9911. Open daily 11:30am2pm, 6-11pm. ZB6 Hazara —Indian. $$$$ Part of The Face’s elegant compound that also includes a Thai restaurant, bar, spa and bakery. The Northern Indian food is excellent and the décor is a stunning mix of hardwood carpentry and exotic crafts. 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-713-6049. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm. ZB6 Khun Churn — Thai/Vegetarian. $-$$ This family-run eatery, tucked away in the relatively quiet Bangkok Mediplex, has a classy-yet-casual atmosphere and serves up down-to-earth yet delicious meat-free Thai meals. G/F, Bangkok Mediplex Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02-713-6599. Open daily 10am-8pm. ZD7

Chef Vichit Mukura

Y DINING NEWS Kitchen Confidential Sala Rim Nam (Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., Charoen Krung Rd., 02-6599000. Open for dinner only by reservation) is a long-running Thai buffet with performances in the evening. What’s new is the chef’s table (B2,900 for 6 courses, B3,900 for 9 courses), which sees 4-12 people seated at a table in the kitchen, with your food cooked by Chef Vichit Mukura who offers a personalized master class in the provenance of the fresh ingredients and an insight into how he cooks them.

Favorite Relocates For more than 25 years Thanon Pan had been home to the famous Taling Pling, but no longer. Their flagship restaurant has now relocated into the Baan Silom complex (60 Silom Soi 19, Bangkok, 02-236-4829-30). It retains a similar homey décor and, of course, all the favorite Thai dishes, as well as some new items such as charcoal grilled Pon Yang Kam beef served with sticky rice (B255) and tom sai bua taling pling (lotus root and Thai garcinia in curry, B150).

Men with Knives The swanky, meat-centric eatery Smith (1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-0515. www.smithrestaurant.com) has just added a chef’s table to let you get up close and personal with chefs Peter Pitakwong and Ian Kittichai. The private room upstairs can seat 15 people as the chefs slice and lecture their way through various pig parts. From B3,800-B5,800 per person

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mvit Soi 45, 02-259-2871-3. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 11am-2pm.

BANGKOK

dining Soul Food Mahanakorn — Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of well-executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect on the hip crowd and the place is often packed. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pmmidnight. ZC6

NEW Supanniga Eating Room — Thai. $$-$$$ This cozy-yet-chic Thai restaurant serves up menus based on dishes the owner’s grandmother used to cook up at home—Thai food that borrows both from her hometown on the Eastern seaboard, Trat, and where the family now lives, Khon Kaen. Try the moo cha muang (pork with Guttiferae tree leaves) and pla too tod (deep-fried mackerel). 160/11 Sukhumwit Soi 55 (between Thonglor Soi 6 and 8). Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm

Pick Xuan mai — Vietnamese. $$$ Probably the best Vietnamese restaurant in town, this is where former beauty queen-then-FBI agent chef Meyung Robson sources the best ingredients, often direct from Vietnam, and cooks them perfectly from traditional recipes. 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-185-2619. Open Tue-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 11:30am-midnight; Sun 11:30am-10pm. ZA6

Riverside Pick Chon — Thai. $$$$ Set in a beautiful Thai

Y SPoTLIGHT

teak house overlooking the Chao Phraya River, Chon (“spoon” in Thai) is making a name for itself thanks to the authentic Thai food being served up by Chef Blair Mathieson. The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., Dusit, 02-206-6999. Free shuttle boat from Central Pier. www.thesiamhotel.com the deck — Thai/International. $$$ Book in advance for one of the best spots, out on the second floor terrace, and enjoy the amazing view of Wat Arun across the river. The well-executed menu covers Thai and European dishes. 36-38 Soi Pratu Nokyung, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158. Open Mon-Thu 7am-10pm, Fri-Sun 7am-11pm. WQ23 Le Normandie — French. $$$$ The Mandarin Oriental’s showcase restaurant has set the standard for service and cuisine for years. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02659-9000. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm; daily 7-10:30pm. XJ11 Supatra Riverside — Thai. $$$$ Situated on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River, the view of the Grand Palace from the terrace of this Thai house is amazing. There are regular cultural performances and a range of classic Thai dishes. Free boat transfer from Maharaj Pier. 266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arunamarin Rd., 02-411-0305. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm. ZP26

Baan Ice

Within a relaxed atmosphere, this new restaurant’s young owner, “Ice,” brings his grandparent’s recipes to the hip nightlife neighbourhood of Thonglor. Expect to taste Southern specialties like khua kling (stir-fried grain fed 150-day Australian beef, B300), pad liang gung siab (stir-fried Southern herbs with dried shrimps, B150) and khao yam Khun Puu (herbs with rice and dipping sauce, B160). Baan Ice Thonglor, Between Thonglor Soi 5 and 7. Open daily 11am-10.30pm.

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nightlife Apoteka

As the name of this new venue on nightlife street Sukhumvit Soi 11 suggests, this new bar looks to stand out from the competition with a 19th century apothecary-inspired décor. That translates into lots of old-looking glass bottles on display, French windows and suitably opulent and vintageinspired upholstered furniture. The pharmaceutical theme also influences the cocktail list (called “antidotes”) where you’ll find drinks with names like Penicilin and Mr. Hyde. Equally noteworthy, they also sell American craft beers from brewers like Rogue and Anderson Valley alongside Belgian brews like Vedett. 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 090-626-7655. Open Mon-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am; Sun 3pmmidnight. BTS Nana. ZA1

Downtown Bed Supperclub — Bangkok’s leading club, with a space-age interior, is divided into two sides— the restaurant, which offers creative food and cutting-edge performances; and the club, where beautiful people come to dance. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. Open daily 7pm-2am. www. bedsupperclub.com ZA1 Beervault — This simple and sleek bar is a mecca for imported brews, boasting 48 bottled beers from 12 different countries and six draught beers. Four Points by Sheraton Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 15, 02-309-3113. Open daily 11-1am. ZB2 Hyde & Seek — Elevated pub grub, one of Bangkok’s best cocktail menus and a décor that conjures up both Victorian drawing room style and NYC sophistication. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-1685152-3. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. YM21

Levels — Decked out with a huge LED chandelier above a circular bar and a bunch of monochrome sofas surrounding a sizeable dance floor, this cavernous recent addition to the Soi 11 strip aims for a rather swanky audio-visual clubbing experience with international DJs regularly dropping by. 6/F Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246. Open daily 9pm-3am. www. levelsclub.com ZA1

Iron Fairies — Like no other bar in Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies. A great live band and powerful cocktails make this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-8875. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. ZB6 Mellow — Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, affluent locals, attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and delicious cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. ZA6 WTF — A collaboration between an art curator, a hip hotelier and a photojournalist, WTF is actually a hybrid bar and exhibition space that’s incredibly popular with Bangkok’s creative expats and local hipsters. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. www. wtfbangkok.com ZC5

Riverside

park society

Y Rooftop bars

Three top new venues to catch the breeze The Speakeasy Perched atop the Hotel Muse Bangkok, this two-story space harks back to the jazz age of the 1920s with a prohibition-era inspired décor, featuring lots of dark wood and Art Deco touches. A balcony on the 24th floor presents 180-degree views of Bangkok, while an al fresco rooftop offers a more leisurely terrace atmosphere. 24-25/F, Hotel Muse Bangkok Langsuan, 55/555 Lang Suan, 02-630-4000. BTS Phloen Cwhit.

Scarlett

Viva & Aviv — Fitting for its riverside location, this venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nauticallyinspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive, well-made cocktails and pub grub. River City Complex, 23 Yota Rd., 02-639-6305. Open daily 11am-midnight. www.vivaaviv.com

Pullman Bangkok Hotel G’s newly renovated wine bar on its top floor features a nice al fresco terrace with fantastic views, an extensive and affordable wine list, industrial bistro décor and interesting tapas options. 37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd, 02238-1991. BTS Chong Nonsi.

ThongLor/Ekkamai

Park Society

Clouds — The futuristic vision is certainly striking— from the undulating ceiling, sporting anything from roses to Barbie dolls, to the acrylic seating inset with leaves. Potent cocktails from the laboratory of a bar add to the techno-ecoinspired theme. G/F, Seenspace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2365. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZB6

For a real breath of fresh air and a park view head up to Park Society on the 29th floor of the trendy Sofitel So. Inside is for fine dining while the rooftop is all about interesting cocktails, lounge tunes and the striking view. For more intimacy try the small mezzanine one level up called Hi-So Cabana (B500 entry with one drink). 29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. Open daily 5pm-1am.

viva&aviv

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BUSINESs Traveler SERVICED OFFICES ELITE OFFICE—With two downtown locations by the BTS, the fully equipped offices are available on flexible contracts. Business and work permit assistance is also available. Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm. www.elite-offices.com. IW SERVICED OFFICE—IW offers customizable offices in prime Sathorn and Sukhumvit locations, complete with secretarial services and meeting room facilities. Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5:30pm. www. iwoffice.com. OFFICE FIRST—Their Sathorn office provides serviced offices, virtual offices, meeting rooms and business support, with the additional availability of translation services. Facilities are pay-per-use and IT and telecom support is also offered. 47/F, Empire Tower, 195 South Sathorn Rd., 02-6863400. BTS Chong Nonsi. www.officefirst.net. SERVCORP—With three prestigious locations in downtown Bangkok, this international company promises to impress your clients. Facilities and services vary. www.servcorp.net.

TEMP AGENCIES MANPOWER—A world leader in workforce solutions, they have a range of resources and services in the realm of HR including contract details, payroll and legal advice. 02-634-7273. www.manpower.th.com. PRTR—One of Thailand’s top recruitment and outsourcing agencies, their range of staff services includes matching contract staff to employers on short notice. 02-716-0000. www. prtr.com.

iSERVE—A standard service center for all Apple devices. 3/F, Amarin Plaza, Ploenchit Rd., 02-6522324 /-7. BTS Chit Lom. For retail branches: www. istudio.in.th.

GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENTS

HERTZ—Their fleet of Hondas and Toyotas are available at the airport and downtown, and with multiple corporate partners (like Thai Airways and ANA), you might be able to save money or collect miles with their offers. Reservation center: 02266-4666. For branches: www.hertzthailand.com.

THAILAND BOARD OF INVESTMENT—To encourage investment, the board offers foreign incentives and business support, including advice and key contacts. 555 Viphavadi Rangsit Rd., 02553-8111. www.boi.go.th.

THAI RENT A CAR—The website includes a simple key to help make choosing the right car easier and they offer personal drivers for daily or contract hire. 02-737-8888. For branches: www.thairentacar. com.

DEPARTMENT OF INTERNATIONAL TRADE PROMOTION—The website is in Thai, but its Thai Trade website features some key information in English. Call center: 1169. 44/100 Nonthaburi 1 Rd., 02-793-9394. www.thaitrade.com.

Documentation

THAI CUSTOMS DEPARTMENT—The website gives a general guideline of tax regulations pertaining to traders, businesses and individuals, but details should be verified in case of regulation changes. Call center: 1164. 1 Sunthornkosa Rd., 02-667-7100. www.customs.go.th.

CAR RENTAL SIXT—This European company allows 24-hour pick up and return, and between its three Bangkok locations offers a choice of sedan, van, truck, sports car, convertible or SUV. Suvarnabhumi Airport: 086-909-4422. For more branches: www.sixt.com/car-rental/thailand.

TRanslation services—Most translation agencies in Bangkok are located in downtowm areas. Try: Chalermprakiat Center for Translation and Interpretation: Room 1308, 13/F, Boromaratchakumari Bldg., Chulalongkorn University, Phaya Thai Rd., 02-218-4635, transunit@chula.ac.th; or, International Translations Office, 22 Silom Rd. (2/F), next to BTS Sala Daeng, 02-233-7714, www.translations.co.th. Legalization serviceS—The Consulate Office of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs is the only authority to certify any translated documents, including birth, education and marriage certificates. Fee starts from B200 and the process takes two working days. Same-day express service is available at double the price. Open Mon-Fri 8:30am-3.30pm. 123 Chaeng Wattana Rd., Laksi, 02-981-7171. www.consular.go.th.

SMART SEARCH—Normally specializing in executive recruitment, the relatively small agency emphasizes their personalized levels of service. 02-714-8088. www.ssrecruitment. com.

OFFICE MATERIALS B2S—You’ll find the office basics at this book, music and stationery store, which has branches in Central and Robinson department stores. Try Central Chidlom (7/F, 1027 Ploenchit Rd.). For more branches: www.b2s.co.th. OFFICE DEPOT—With 29 branches in Bangkok, the stores at Asoke and Silom are the most convenient downtown. The international chain stocks everything from office electronics to furniture, and if you shop online, orders over B500 are delivered free of charge. Silom branch: 3/F and 9/F, United Center, 323 Silom Rd., 02267-6262. Call center: 02-808-5555. For more branches: www.officedepot.co.th.

TECH SUPPORT Pantip Plaza—A heaven for tech and IT lovers, the rather grungy-looking seven floors are dedicated to gadgets and gizmos. You’ll find countless little stalls selling computers, laptops, mobile phones, printers, mainboards and more, with many computer repair services located on the ground floor. 604/3 Petchaburi Rd., 02-2501555. BTS Ratchathewi. www.pantipplaza.com.

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HEALTH + WELLNESS Scoops of Scrubs

As Thailand’s brief winter fades from memory, finding ways to cool down takes precedence. Fortunately, Devarana Spa has come up with a new way to exfoliate and moisturize with a range of scrubs that imitate the cooling properties of ice cream. Offering flavors like chocolate, coconut, rose and Thai tea, these scrubs are actually made from a combination of sweet potato, oatmeal and aromatic oils which are chilled to 15-20 degrees C, providing a soothing experience meant to moisturize skin and relieve the effects of sun damage. B2,100 for 60 mins (1 scrub). Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-636-3596. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.devaranaspa.com XF10

SPA Apex Medi Spa — Renowned beauty clinic APEX Profound Beauty has gone upscale with this total rejuvenating retreat set in Thong Lor. The spa features in-patient rooms, treatment suites, a restaurant and swimming pool. Programs range from three-hour spa treatments to seven-day weight-loss packages. 208/1-3, Thonglor Soi 8, 02-713-8331-2. Open daily 8:30am-8:30pm. ZC6

ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is the first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the ancient Arabian sauna in the Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-10pm. www. stregis.com/bangkok YN18

I.SAWAN — With its Tony Chi design and its classy residential cottages and treatment bungalows, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a fitness club, tennis and squash courts and a 25-meter pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com YN18

THE ORIENTAL SPA — As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.mandarinoriental. com/bangkok/spa XJ11

I Spa — One of Bangkok’s newest spa sanctuaries, the treatments offered here are based on therapies from China, India, Japan and Thailand, using five choices of essential oils based on Asian flowers and herbs. Their Balinese and Thai massages are suggested for those suffering from jetlag. 9/F, The Landmark Bangkok, 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-252-9444. BTS Nana. www. ispathailand.com ZC1

PaNPURI ORGANIC SPA — Hidden behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of this luxury spa. Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1199. Open daily 10-8pm. www.panpuri.com IM18

LET’S RELAX — With branches around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-662-6935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www.letsrelaxspa.com ZB3 Le Spa with L’Occitane — Thailand’s first Le Spa with L’Occitane boasts a contemporary Thai style combined with an elegant French touch. Treatments include the Golden Siamese Massage and Four Teas Ceremony. 9/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. between Soi 13-15, 02-126-9999. BTS Nana. ZB2

SPA BOTANICA — Surrounded by lush gardens, Spa Botanica is an urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best massage options. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd, 02-2344-8900. Open daily 9am-10pm. www. sukhothai.com XG13 S MEDICAL SPA — Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, this award-winning spa creates beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs. 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Rd., 02-253-1010. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.smedspa.com YL20

THANN SANCTUARY SPA — Treatments using their locally-made spa products, within a tranquil space bathed in soothing lights. 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.thann.info YM18

AESTHETIC CLINICS APEX SKIN CENTER — If you’re trying to solve some skin issues, check out this well established and popular skin center for state-of-the-art treatments from Botox to micro-dermabrasion. 3/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-644-8613/-4. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-9pm. More branches: www.apexskincenter.com ASTER SPRING — This international chain of skin care and health spas combines German techniques and products to provide effective facial and body treatments. The philosophy here is no-frills and no-nonsense, just good skin products that offer real results. L/F, Gaysorn, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-656-1421/2. BTS Chidlom. PUTTHARAKSA — From non-invasive face lifts to the derma roller regeneration treatment, their aesthetic care is all about helping your body heal itself. Get further support through their anti-aging treatments. 1535 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-6336. BTS Phrakhanong. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-9pm, Sun noon- 6pm. www.puttharaksaclinic.com ROMRAWIN — The popular beauty clinic has now expanded to over 20 branches in Bangkok alone. They cover everything from body treatments and weight-loss programs to acne cures and more, all using state-of-the-art equipment. 4/F, Chidlom Tower, 22 Soi Somkid, Ploenchit Rd., 02-6557625, 02-655-7818. Open daily 10am-9pm. More branches: www.romrawin.com YN19

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HEALTH + WELLNESS

Where Special | Wellness

I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok

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treatments at I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok. The offer is valid until March 31, 2013.

I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok, Tel: 02 252 9444

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Rejuvenate your mind, body and soul at Spa@Tonson Spa@Tonson provides a Unique & Authentic Massage that is designed

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Call for special promotion: 02-658-7980 / 081-954-4366. Location: Level 5 Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Bangkok. www.spatonson.com

S Medical Spa S Medical Spa is a complete Rejuvenation center providing a one-stopservice for Optimizing your Health, Appearance and Well-being with a

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S Medical Spa please call 02-253-1010 Call Center: 086-972-4540 www.smedspa.com, info@smedspa.com

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ShopS+Services All-New Siam Center

After five months of renovations, one of the city’s most iconic malls reopens on January 11 with a brand new look to mark its 40th anniversary. The new design has been dubbed “Ideaopolis,” and the mall aims to offer inspirational spaces for art and design, befitting its traditional reputation at the vanguard of the local fashion scene. The four floors will be filled with 200 international brands but the real highlight is the Fashion Visionary space on the third floor, which will be home to the flagship stores of top Thai designers like Something Boudoir, Theatre and Kloset. To celebrate the reopening, the mall will curate a fashion-focused exhibition (pictured) showcasing the works of Andy Warhol, Comme des Garcons and Yohji Yamamoto, alongside works by top local designers. Rama 1 Rd., Pathumwan, 02658-1000. www.siamcenter.co.th YM17

Downtown Amarin Plaza — The mall’s Greco-Roman façade actually hides some unexpected gems. ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs. 496-502 Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-4704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com YM18 Central Chidlom — The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrods, Central Chidlom first opened in 1973 and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Bottega Venetta, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the impressive Food Hall on the ground floor and the views from the international food court, up on the seventh. 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th YM19

CentralWorld — This massive shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000-sq-meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites like Singha Life and Disaya. Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www. centralworld.co.th YM18

Gaysorn — Thailand’s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Celine) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1149. BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com YM18

Erawan Bangkok — This mini-mall might look petite, but its three floors offer some high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including Yohji Yamamoto, Dior Homme and Lanvin. 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com YM18 gaysorn

Platinum Fashion Mall — Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashionrelated from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even a single item is very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. www.platinumfashionmall. com YK18 MBK Center — Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and at bargain prices. As a result,the chaotic MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good. Still it’s fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www.mbk-center.co.th YM16 28 W H E R E t h a i land I january 2013

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ShopS+Services Siam Discovery Center — The sister mall of Siam Center just celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamdiscoverycenter.co.th YM16 Siam Paragon — With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like H&M and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a cinema. As well as lots of restaurants, there’s also a food court in the basement. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamparagon.co.th YM17

siam paragon

Elsewhere

MARKETS

Asiatique — This shopping center is the first to sit on the banks of the Chao Phraya River and is themed according to the city’s architecture of old. Divided into several sections, ranging from the panoramic waterfront to a 100year old refurbished sawmill, it includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashions and intriguing souvenirs, plus offers a variety of eateries, beer gardens and wine bars. The gigantic venue is also home to a new ferris wheel and the Joe Louis puppet theater and restaurant. You can catch the free ferry from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin). 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488.

Chatuchak Market — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is one of the world’s largest weekend markets. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products on each offers. You can literally spend the weekend here amid the warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 10-24 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-decor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.chatuchak.org

OP Place — Situated in a beautiful neoclassicalstyle building close to the river, this gorgeous luxury mall oozes charm from the sweeping wooden staircase to the antique lift. The plushly-carpeted halls are home to a host of high-end boutiques offering unique and rare antiques and artifacts from across Southeast Asia, handcrafted jewelry, bespoke tailors and fine art. The Ashwood Gallery that occupies the whole third floor is home to some particularly striking pieces. There’s also a free shuttle service to the neighboring OP Garden, which houses an art gallery, restaurants and high-end boutiques. 30/1 Soi 38, Charoenkrung Rd., 02266-0186. Open daily 10:30am-7pm. XJ11

Talat Rod Fai — This al fresco night bazaar has quickly become a hot spot for vintage finds, thanks to the mix of retro fashion, décor and toys for sale and because of the laidback ambience at the ad hoc bars and cafés. Kamphaeng Phet Rd. MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Fri-Sun, 4pm-midnight.

Sukhumvit The Emporium — Set in the heart of the city’s upscale residential area (home to Bangkok’s largest Japanese community), The Emporium offers luxury shopping without the crowds, thanks to its tenant portfolio, which includes brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Prada, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal, Thann and Jim Thompson. There are also lots of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative & Design Center on the top floor. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www.emporiumthailand. com ZC4 Terminal 21 — One of Bangkok’s newest shopping complexes boasts an airport terminal-cum-international destinations theme. As you travel through the nine floors you can stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to highstreet chains, while the higher floors offer a host of intriguing boutiques by Thai designers. There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21.co.th ZB3

terminal 21

january 2013 I WHER E t ha i l a n d 29

SHOPPING_Jan_2013.indd 29

12/20/12 7:39 PM

BANGKOK

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overview

Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

Phahon Yothin ¾ËÅâÂ¸Ô¹

ChatuchakPark ÊÇ¹¨µØ¨Ñ¡Ã

Chao Phraya áÁ‹¹้Óà¨ŒÒ¾ÃÐÂÒ

Bang Sue ºÒ§«×่Í

Ratchadapisek ÃÑª´ÒÀÔàÉ¡

Mo Chit ËÁÍªÔµ

2 Kamphaeng Phet ¡Óá¾§à¾ªÃ

Sutthisan ÊØ·¸ÔÊÒÃ

Saphan Khwai ÊÐ¾Ò¹¤ÇÒÂ

Huai Khwang ËÑÇÂ¢ÇÒ§

Ari ÍÒÃÕÂ

Thailand Cultural Center ÈÙ¹Â ÇÑ²¹¸ÃÃÁáË‹§»ÃÐà·Èä·Â

Sanam Pao Ê¹ÒÁà»‡Ò

Ratchawithi Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒªÇÔ¶Õ

Phra Athit ·‹ÒàÃ×Í¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Victory Monument Í¹ØàÊÒÇÃÕÂ

Phaya Thai ¾ÞÒä·

Wang Lang ·‹ÒàÃ×Í ÇÑ§ËÅÑ§

Yaowarat Rd.

Tha Tien ·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒàµÕÂ¹

Hua Lamphong ËÑÇÅÓâ¾§

Makkasan ÁÑ¡¡ÐÊÑ¹

Sukhumvit ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

Siam ÊÂÒÁ

Chit Lom ªÔ´ÅÁ

Phloen Chit à¾ÅÔ¹¨Ôµ

Ratchadamri ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

Nana ¹Ò¹Ò

Sam Yan ÊÒÁÂ‹Ò¹

Silom ÊÕÅÁ

Phetchaburi à¾ªÃºØÃÕ Phrom Phong ¾ÃŒÍÁ¾§É

Ramkhamhaeng ÃÒÁ¤ÓáË§

Thong Lo ·Í§ËÅ‹Í Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑÂ Phra Khanong ¾ÃÐâ¢¹§

Asok ÍâÈ¡

!2 8

!5!6

National Stadium Ê¹ÒÁ¡ÕÌÒáË‹§ªÒµÔ

Ratchaprarop ÃÒª»ÃÒÃ¶

Ratchathewi ÃÒªà·ÇÕ

Maharaj ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÁËÒÃÒª

To Suvarnabhumi Airport

Phaya Thai ¾ÞÒä·

Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´Óà¹Ô¹¡ÅÒ§

!8 Phra Ram 9 ¾ÃÐÃÒÁ 9

Queen Sirikit National Conv. Centre ÈÙ¹Â »ÃÐªØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์ Lumphini ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

On Nut Í‹Í¹¹Øª Bang Chak ºÒ§¨Ò¡

Khlong Toei ¤ÅÍ§àµÂ

Sala Daeng ÈÒÅÒá´§

Ratchawong ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÃÒªÇ§¤

Punnawithi »Ø³³ÇÔ¶Õ

Udom Suk ÍØ´ÁÊØ¢

Si Phraya ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÕ¾ÃÐÂÒ

Chong Nonsi ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ

Oriental ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕÂ¹àµÅ Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã

Krung Thon Buri ¡ÃØ§¸¹ºØÃÕ

Saphan Taksin ÊÐ¾Ò¹µÒ¡ÊÔ¹

Surasak ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Chao Phraya áÁ‹¹้Óà¨ŒÒ¾ÃÐÂÒ

Bangkok Overview Key

1 Asiatique

!0 Victory Monument

Main road

2 Chatuchak Market

!1 Yaowarat (China Town)

BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

3 Vimanmek Mansion

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumpini Park

MRT

5 Khaosan Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Center

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

!5 Siam Paragon Shopping Center

River/Klong (canal)

7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

!6 CentralWorld and Zen

8 Wat Po

!7 Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

9 Wat Arun

!8 Thailand Cultural Centre

Pier

Rama III Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ 3

Sukhumvit Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

To Wongwian Yai Station

Bang Na ºÒ§¹Ò

Bearing áºÃÔ่§

Find out the latest news on Thailand at Facebook.com/WhereThailand | Instagram @where_thailand

30 W H E R E t h a i land I january 2013

NAVIGATE_Jan_2013.indd 30

12/21/12 6:58 PM

BANGKOK

Navigate

GET MOVING Mount in the heart of the Old Town, stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically-challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.

Z Dining

1. L’Appart B2 2. 11 Gallery B1 3. 4 Garcons B6 4. Above Eleven A1 5. Baan Ice A6 6. Bacco C6 7. Bo.Lan D5 8. Bonjour C6 9. Gossip A6 10. Harvey B6 11. Hazara B6 12. Indus E5 13. Isao C4 14. Khun Churn D7 15. Khua Kling Paksod C6 16. Mr. Jones’ Orphanage B6 17. Near Equal C5 18. Phuket Town C6 19. Quince C5 20. Rosabieng B1 21. Rossini’s C2

CANAL BOATS—While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only one canal (klong) still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden 2

1. Terminal 21 B3 2. The Emporium C4

Art & Attractions 1. Kamthieng House B3 2. Thailand Creative and Design Centre (TCDC) C4

Sukhumvit7

6 30

Seen Space

F 9

Arena 10

Phrom Phong

Queen Sirikit National Convention Center ÈÙ¹Â »ÃÐªØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Benchakitti Park ÊÇ¹ÊÒ¸ÒÃ³àºÞ¨¡ÔµµÔ

Parklane ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ¾ÒÃ ¤àÅ¹

·Í§ËÅ‹Í

8 G

The Emporium ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ

Major Cineplex Sukhumvit

Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

TO B

14 11

Ekkamai Bus Terminal Ê¶Ò¹Õ¢¹Ê‹§àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

EARIN G

STATIO

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

ÊÇ¹ÊÒ¸ÒÃ³Ð àºÞ¨ÊÔÃÔ

26 18

Soi Sukhumvit 40 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 40

Benchasiri Park

Thong Lo

Rain Hill ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ àÃ¹ÎÔÅ

Soi Sukhumvit 26 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 26

Soi Sukhumvit 16 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 16

¾ÃŒÍÁ¾§É

Soi Sukhumvit 38 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 38

ÍâÈ¡

Soi 53

Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 34

Asok

Sukhumvit 51

5 7

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

Soi Sukhumvit 55 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 55

Soi Sukhumvit 49 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 49

J Avenue ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à¨ ÍÐàÇ¹ÔÇ

Soi Sukhumvit 24 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 24

Soi Sukhumvit 14 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 14

Soi Sukhumvit 12 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 12

Soi Sukhumvit 10 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 10

Prommit Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅ¾ÃŒÍÁÁÔµÃ

Sukhumvit ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

Terminal 21 ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à·ÍÁÔ¹ÍÅ 21

Times Square ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ä·Á Êá¤ÇÃ

Soi Sukhumvit 39 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 39

ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ âÃºÔ¹ÊÑ¹

Soi Sukhumvit 22 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 22

2 Robinson

Soi Sukhumvit 31 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 31

Samitivej Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅÊÁÔµÔàÇª

Soi Sukhumvit 20 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 20

Soi Sukhumvit 23 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 23

Soi Sukhumvit 19 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 19

Soi Sukhumvit 15 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 15

Soi Sukhumvit 13 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 13 3

Soi Sukhumvit 4 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 4

Shopping

1. Apoteka A1 2. BeerVault B2 3. Bed Supperclub A1 4. Clouds B6 5. Fat Gutz B6 6. Levels B1 7. Iron Fairies B6 8. Manhattan Bar B1 9. Mellow A6 10. Q Bar A1 11. WTF C5 12. W XYZ A1

1 6, 12

¹Ò¹Ò

Nightlife

1. Apex Medi Spa C6 2. Apex Skin Center C4 3. Dermaster A7 4. I SPA at The Landmark Bangkok C1 5. Oasis Spa C5 6. Le Spa B2 7. Let’s Relax B3

Nana TO MO CHIT STATION

TO BANG SUE STATION

Health & Wellness

«ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 11

Soi 11

Bumrungrad Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅ ºÓÃØ§ÃÒÉ®Ã

Soi Sukhumvit 3 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 3

22. Ruen Mallika E4 23. Seafood Bar D3 24. Smith C5 25. Soul Food Mahanakorn C6 26. Supanniga Eating Room C6 27. Taling Pling D5 28. The Local A3 29. Water Library B6 30. Xuan Mai A6

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

january 2013 I WHER E T HAILAND 31 15

TO MO CHIT STATION

18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ

Ratchathewi NAVIGATE_Jan_2013.indd 31

ÃÒªà·ÇÕ

Pantip Plaza ¾Ñ¹·Ô¾Â ¾ÅÒ«‹Ò

Platinum Mall á¾ÅµµÔ¹ÑÁ ÁÍÅÅ

12/21/12 6:58 PM

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÇ§È

AIRPORT LINk—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (tenminute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 15-20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 one-way and B150 roundtrip for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.

BANGKOK

Navigate

Chamchuri Square ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

11 Lumpini Park ÊÇ¹ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

TO NATIONAL STADIUM STATION

Si Lom ÊÕÅÁ

Chulalongkorn Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅ¨Ø¿ÒÅ§¡Ã³

12 ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Rama 4 Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4

Sala Daeng

Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§

ÈÒÅÒá´§

Silom Soi 2

1 Silom Complex

Thaniya Plaza ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ

Soi Convent «ÍÂ¤Í¹áÇ¹µ 4

ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ

àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ 3

Surasak ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

x Dining

OP Place

Oriental Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕÂ¹àµÅ

1. Celadon G13 2. D’Sens F10 3. Dine in the Dark H13 4. Eat Me G11 5. Le Normandie J11 6. Nahm,8Glow G13 7. Niu’s I10 Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃØ³ 8. Ruen Urai G8 9. Scarlett H10 10. Somtum Der F11

2 2

frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a Tha Tien Piergreat way to get a different perspective on Tha the·‹Phrachan city,Pier Ò¾ÃÐ¨Ñ¹·Ã ·‹ÒàµÕÂ¹ as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan 1 Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from 9 B9 to B32 depending 1 1 on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket Wat Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ Wat Po ÇÑ´â¾¸Ô์ (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river.

skytrain/underground—The Wat Rajapardit ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃÐ´ÔÉ°

Bangkok Skytrain (BTS) stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are twoWatÇÑmain lines: the Silom Line, which Suthat ´ÊØ·ÑÈ¹ runs from across the river in Wongwian Yai to National Stadium; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines.

1. OP Place J9

Art & Attractions

Soi Ruam Rudi «ÍÂ Ã‹ÇÁÄ´Õ

1. Gossip Gallery I10 2. H Gallery H11 3. Kathmandu Photo Gallery I11 Emporium 4. Serindia GalleryIndiaJ11 ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ÍÔ¹à´ÕÂ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ 5. Silom Galleria I10

The Old Siam Plaza ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒä«¹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´

32 W H E R E t h a i land I january 2013 S

Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã

EXPRESS RIVER Boats—25These fast and 24

Shopping TO BEARING STATION

ÊÐ¾Ò¹µÒ¡ÊÔ¹

TO WONGWIAN YAI STATION

1. Body Tune G10 2. Devarana Spa F10 3. Divana Virtue Spa I12 4. Health Land G13 Ratchawong Pier Q ÃÒªÇ§¤ 5.·‹ÒSo SPA F12 6. Spa Botanica G13 7. The Oriental Spa J11

Saphan Taksin

Memorial Bridge Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÐ¾Ò¹¾Ø·¸

Chit

Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡ÃØ§

Health & Wellness

Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢

City Viva

St. Louis Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅà«¹µ ËÅØÂÊ

Soi Silom 1 9 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 1 5

Pan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹

STATIO

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

rminal ÁÑÂ

Chong Nonsi 9

Ekkamai

EARIN G

Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์

TO B

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·ÃãµŒ

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÇ§È

¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

Si Lom Rd.

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

Silom Soi 4

TO BANG SUE STATION

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·ÃàË¹×Í

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

silom14

Lumphini

Bura

pa R

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station ¹ºÙÃ¾ Ò on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the

d. ¶¹

main Central Business District before turning 26 27 North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past 28 Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) Chatuchak and ending at Bang Sue station. Wang Lang PierMarket âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇÑ§ËÅÑ§

» ÂÁËÒÃÒª¡ÒÃØ³Â

There are interchange stations at Sukhumvit (MRT) /Asok (BTS) and Silom (MRT)/Sala Daeng (BTS). Fares are B15-B40 for both trains. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get 4 special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www.bangkokmetro.co.th. 3 Phra Athit Pier Note that the BTS and MRT use different ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ ticketing systems. Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹ÐÊ§¤ÃÒÁ

TAXIS—In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for thePolice first two kilometers. Despite their Station Ê¶Ò¹ÕµÓÃÇ¨ many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. Democracy Monument Í¹ØÊÒÇÃÕÂ »ÃÐªÒ¸Ô»äµÂ

Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

Wat Saket ÇÑ´ÊÃÐà¡µØ

NAVIGATE_Jan_2013.indd 32

12/21/12 6:58 PM

Chamchuri Square ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

ÊÕÅÁ

Chulalongkorn Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅ¨Ø¿ÒÅ§¡Ã³

ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4

Sala Daeng

Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§

ÈÒÅÒá´§

Silom Soi 2

1 Silom Complex

Thaniya Plaza ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ

Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

STATIO

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

EARIN G

Si Lom Rd.

1 Tha Phrachan Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐ¨Ñ¹·Ã

Rattanakosin28

Wang Lang Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇÑ§ËÅÑ§

Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª » ÂÁËÒÃÒª¡ÒÃØ³Â

Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃØ³

1 Memorial Bridge Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÐ¾Ò¹¾Ø·¸

Wat Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ

Wat Po ÇÑ´â¾¸Ô์

3 6

banking hours—Banking hours are generally from 8:30am to43:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

Tha Tien Pier ·‹ÒàµÕÂ¹

Navigate

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·ÃãµŒ

TO B

BANGKOK

tralia 02-2514-173, Austria 02-287-3970, Belgium 02-679-5465, Brazil 02-679-8567, Bulgaria 02-3916180, Cambodia 02-636-0540, China 02-245-7043, ATMS—ATMs are very common in Bangkok and Czech Republic 02-255-3027, Denmark 02-213Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์ can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located 2021, Egypt 02-262-0236, Finland 02-256-9306, outside of 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able France 02-266-8250, Ghana 02-641-5214, Germany to use overseas cards to withdraw money. Chong Nonsi 02-287-9000, Greece 02-679-1462, Iceland 02ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ 9 237-8010, India 02-258-0300, Indonesia 02-2522 City Viva 3135, Iran 02-259-0611, Ireland 02-223-0876, Israel Dining 3 1. Supatra Riverside P26 02-204-9200, Italy 02-252-6151, Korea (South) 2. The Deck Q23 St. Louis Hospital 02-247-7537, Laos 02-539-6667, Malaysia 02-679âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅà«¹µ ËÅØÂÊ Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ 2190, Mexico 02-285-0815, Morocco 02-653-2444, Health & Wellness 3 3 1. Wat Po Q24 Myanmar 02-233-2237, Nepal 02-391-7240, NethPan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹ 7 erlands 02-254-7701, Norway 02-302-6415, New Art & Attractions Surasak ÊØÃÈÑ¡´ÔQ25 ์ 1. Grand Palace Zealand 02-254-2530, Nigeria 02-391-5197, Pakistan Soi Silom 1 9 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 2. Museum Siam Q23 02-253-0288, Peru 1 5 02-260-6243, Philippines 3. National Gallery Q27 02-259-0139, Portugal 02-234-7435, Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØRussia Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢ ÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ 024. National Museum Q27 268-1169, Saudi Arabia 02-639-2999, Switzerland 5. Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall S26 6. Royal Barge Museum P27 02-253-0156, Singapore 02-286-2111, Spain 02-2527. The Queen’s Gallery S27 6112, Sri-Lanka 02-331-6384, Sweden 02-302-0360, Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔ Þ¡ÃØ§ Saphan Taksin 8. Wat Arun (Temple 5 ÊÐ¾Ò¹µÒ¡ÊÔ ¹ of Dawn) P22 Taiwan 02-670-0220, Tunisia 02-692-5071, Turkey 9. Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald 02-274-7262, United Arab Emirates 02-639-9820, 7 Buddha) Q25 4 OP Place Oriental Pier United Kingdom 02-305-8333, United States of Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕÂ¹àµÅ ShoppingCentral ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã America 02-205-4000, Syria 02-254-7961, Vietnam 1. SUPPORT Foundation Shop P25 TO WONGWIAN YAI STATION 02-251-5838

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÇ§È

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo 8 opportunities. However, there is no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a G price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Soi Convent major EMBASSIES & «ÍÂ¤Í¹áÇ¹µ CONSULATES—Argentina 02-259-0401, Aus4 ¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

TUK-TUKs—Tuk-tuks are a noisy Silom but fun way of Soi 4

TO BANG SUE STATION

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·ÃàË¹×Í

Lumphini

Rama 4 Rd. TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

erminal ¡ÁÑÂ

Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃÒªÇ§¤

Phra Athit Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹ÐÊ§¤ÃÒÁ

Wat Rajapardit ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃÐ´ÔÉ°

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Wat Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·ÑÈ¹

Police Station Ê¶Ò¹ÕµÓÃÇ¨

TO BEARING STATION

11 1 1

Soi Ruam Rudi «ÍÂ Ã‹ÇÁÄ´Õ

11 Lumpini Park ÊÇ¹ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

TO NATIONAL STADIUM STATION

Si Lom

India Emporium ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ÍÔ¹à´ÕÂ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ

The Old Siam Plaza ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒä«¹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´

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Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

Wat Saket ÇÑ´ÊÃÐà¡µØ

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Navigate

Queen Sirikit National Convention Center ÈÙ¹Â »ÃÐªØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Benchakitti Park ÊÇ¹ÊÒ¸ÒÃ³àºÞ¨¡ÔµµÔ

Soi Sukhumvit 38

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

BANGKOK

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Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢Ø

Soi Sukhumvit 26 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

Soi Sukhumvit 24 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁ

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TO MO CHIT STATION

18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ

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Wat Patum Wanaram ÇÑ´»·ØÁÇ¹ÒÃÒÁ

Gaysorn ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒà¡ÉÃ

Chit Lom ªÔ´ÅÁ

8 P

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2 Royal Thai Police ÊÓ¹Ñ¡§Ò¹µÓÃÇ¨áË‹§ªÒµÔ

General Police Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅµÓÃÇ¨

Amarin Plaza Erawan Bangkok ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒÍÑÁÃÔ¹·Ã ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒàÍÃÒÇÑ¹

Henri Dunant Rd. ¶¹¹ ÍÑ§ÃÕ´Ù¹ÑÇµ

Phaya Thai Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÞÒä·

Nightlife

1. Hyde & Seek M21 2. The Speakeasy M21 3. The St Regis Bar N18

Health & Wellness 1. Aster Spring M18 2. Elemis Spa N18 3. i.Sawan N18 4. Panpuri Spa M18 5. Romrawin N19

Ratchadamri

1 12

5 10 2

ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

S 4

TO WONGWIAN STATION

Y 1. Le Beaulieu N21 2. Elements M21 3. Erawan Tea Room N18 4. Gaggan O19 5. Gianni Ristorante N19 6. Grossi Trattoria M19 7. Jim Thompson Restaurant & Bar L15 8. Kisara N21 9. Mandopop N20 10. Medici N19 11. La Monita Taqueria M21 12. Reflexions N21 13. Shintaro N18 14. Sra Bua L17 15. Zense N19 16. Zuma N18

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

Sarasin Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒÃÊÔ¹

Dining

Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ

Digital Gateway ´Ô¨ÔµÍÅà¡็µàÇÂ

Soi Tonson «ÍÂ µŒ¹Ê¹

ÊÂÒÁ

MBK ÁÒºØÞ¤ÃÍ§

Soi Lang Suan «ÍÂ ËÅÑ§ÊÇ¹

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TO BEARING STATION

Siam

National Stadium

Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃÒªÇ§¤

Central Chidlom ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à«็¹·ÃÑÅªÔ´ÅÁ

6. S Medical Spa L20 7. Thann Sanctuary Spa M18

Shopping

1. Amarin Plaza M18 2. Central Chidlom M19 3. CentralWorld M18 4. Erawan Bangkok M18 5. Gaysorn M18 6. MBK Center M16 7. Pantip Plaza K17 8. Platinum Fashion Mall K18 9. Siam Center/Siam Discovery Center M16 10. Siam Paragon M17

Art & Attractions

1. 100 Tonson Gallery N20 2. Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) M16 3. Jim Thompson Art Center & House L1 5 4. Madame Tussauds M16 5. Siam Ocean World M17 6. Sombat Permpoon Gallery L21

vat refunds—Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. On the day you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport and before you check in present your goods and the refund form to Customs officers at the refund desk (its a clearly sign posted counter at all the international Thai airports). Refund amounts not exceeding B30,000, will be made in cash (Thai baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refund amounts exceeding B30,000, will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Hospitals—Bumrungrad International, (Sukhumvit Soi 1-3, 02-667-1000, emergency 02-667-2999), Bangkok Hospital (Soi Soonvijai, Petchaburi Rd., 02-310-3000), BNH Hospital (Convent Rd., 02-686-2700), Samitivej Sukhumvit (Sukhumvit 49, 02-711-8181), Siriraj SiPH (Phrannok Rd., 1474).

Essential Numbers Emergency Services (Fire Brigade, Police) 191 Airport Rail Link 02-308-5600. http://airportraillink.railway.co.th Bangkok Taxi Call Center 1681 / 1661 Bangkok Mass Transit System (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th BTS Tourist Information Center : 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th Bangkok Metro (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6ammidnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th Chao Phraya Express Boat Call Center 02-6236001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com Suvanbhumi International Airport 1722/02-1321888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) – 1672. www.tourismthailand.org Tourist Police 24-hour call center 1155

34 W H E R E t h a i land I january 2013

NAVIGATE_Jan_2013.indd 34

Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃØ³

Memorial Brid ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÐ¾

Soi Ruam Rudi «ÍÂ Ã‹ÇÁÄ´Õ

Chit Lom Rd. ¶¹¹ªÔ´ÅÁ

Ratchadamri Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ

Pantip Plaza ¾Ñ¹·Ô¾Â ¾ÅÒ«‹Ò

Soi Som Khit «ÍÂÊÁ¤Ô´

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12/21/12 6:59 PM

Where Special

Fifty Years Arts and Antiques

Edo-period Japanese armour and wood-carved sculptures of Shogun. 19th century.

Tucked down the quiet side street of Soi Charoen Krung 30 better known as Captain Bush Lane, close to the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find a charming old heritage building from the 1940s. The first floor of this old mansion is the home of Fifty Years Arts and Antiques a treasure trove of unique pieces, from precious bronzes to terracotta sculptures and antique weapons to religious images. Indeed the most impressive aspect of this store is the sheer breadth and quality of the artifacts on offer, everything from Gandhara terracotta Buddha images from the 4th-5th century to complete Japanese armor from the Edo era of the 19th century. All of these pieces are curated by antique expert Mr. Grusenmeyer, who has over 50 years of experience traveling across Asia, from Pakistan to Japan, in search of rare art, antiques and collectibles. To bring you further peace of mind, all of the precious pieces offered for sale here are certified by an authorized organization in Hong Kong, so you can rest assured youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re getting authentic antiques and artifacts. Come and find out for yourself by visiting the gallery which is open Monday to Friday, 10am-6pm.

Terracotta Hercules sculpture. 4-5th century.

Adver_50yrs_NEW.indd 55

Gandhara Buddha image made of terracotta. 4-5th century.

48 Ground Floor (right door), Soi Charoenkrung 30, Bangrak, Bangkok, 02-267-2297. stefaan@ grusenmeyer.be

12/21/12 7:12 PM