Angela Maria Seracchioli
On the road with Saint Francis 350 kilometres from La Verna, Gubbio, Assisi... as far as Rieti
If you walk the Way, please do not forget those who will follow and, if you have any notes, suggestions or news, do write to us. They will be useful for the next edition. You can find all the latest info and a space reserved for your comments on the website www.diquipassofrancesco.it. To contact the author, email: jacopadue@yahoo.it
Di qui passò Francesco © Angela Maria Seracchioli © 2013 Cart’Armata edizioni Srl Terre di mezzo Editore via Calatafimi 10, 20122 Milano Tel. 02-83.24.24.26 email editore@terre.it libri.terre.it Publishing management: Miriam Giovanzana Publishing coordination: Isabella Pavan Translation: Leslie Ray Cartography © LS International Cartography - Milan First edition: May 2013 Printed by: Reggiani spa, Brezzo di Bedero (VA) This book is printed on paper with certification FSC®, which guarantees the origin of the raw materials from responsibly managed forests: the interior, on Luxo Art Silk 100 gsm paper, is from the Papyrus paper mills, the cover, on Luxo Art Silk 300 gsm paper, is from the Papyrus paper mills.
Table of Contents page
5 Pilgrims and strangers always 7 Good walking good people! 10 Before setting off
The stages Stage 1 Stage 2 Stage 3 Stage 4 Stage 5 Stage 6 Stage 7 Stage 8 Stage 9 Stage 10 Stage 11 Stage 12 Stage 13 Stage 14 Stage 15 Stage 16 Stage 17
18 24 32 38 48 56 63 74 82 99 106 116 130 138 144 151 160 176
La Verna from the Sanctuary of La Verna to Pieve Santo Stefano from Pieve Santo Stefano to Passo di Viamaggio from Passo di Viamaggio to Sansepolcro from Sansepolcro to Città di Castello from Città di Castello to Pietralunga from Pietralunga to Gubbio from Gubbio to Biscina from Biscina to Assisi from Assisi to Spello from Spello to Trevi from Trevi to Spoleto from Spoleto to Romita di Cesi from Romita di Cesi to Collescipoli from Collescipoli to Stroncone from Stroncone to the Sanctuary of Greccio from the Sanctuary of Greccio to Rieti from Rieti to Poggio Bustone
From La Verna to Poggio Bustone By bicycle along paths and asphalted roads
188 with Francis on two wheels
Stage 1 Stage 2 Stage 3 Stage 4 Stage 5 Stage 6 Stage 7
191 192 193 194 195 198 200
from the Sanctuary of La Verna to Passo di Viamaggio from Passo di Viamaggio to Città di Castello from Città di Castello to Gubbio from Gubbio to Santa Maria degli Angeli (Assisi) from Santa Maria degli Angeli (Assisi) to Romita di Cesi from Romita di Cesi to Stroncone from Stroncone to Poggio Bustone
202 Perfect Joy 206 Bibliography
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biscina
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From Gubbio to Biscina LENGTH
22 km 6-7 hours DIFFICULTY ● ● ● time
Where to sleep BETWEEN GUBBIO AND BISCINA Around 2 km from Ponte d’Assi, Agritur Ponte di Riocchio, possibility of dinner with fixed menu and packed lunch for pilgrims; possibility of lodgings in rooms and apartments, also arrangements for tents. Shower available. (ask for Luciano), tel. 075-92.22.611 / 333-21.01.710. On the little path just before the TURN FOR VALLINGEGNO Agritur e ristorante Val of Chiascio, price agreed for pilgrims. Tel. 075-92.02.51. BISCINA CASTLE on top of a hill in a magnificent position, stand the castle and the agritourism farm. There is the possibility to use both the services of the agritourism farm and to stay the night “as pilgrims”. Rooms, dinner, breakfast, swimming pool. Tel. 07592.29.730 / 333-75.04.607 / 338-76.80.354. BELLUGELLO (ward of Biscina). After Caprignone, once you reach the junction on the main road, to the right you go to Bellugello (1.3 km) and to the left to Biscina Castle (1 km). B&B località Bellugello, various rooms, pilgrim price, with breakfast. For dinner, kitchen with outdoor barbecue or, for groups of over 4 people, pilgrim menu at the restaurant Il Panaro
around 5 km away, accompanied of course. If instead you continue, at VALFABBRICA you find a youth hostel, Ostello Francescano (International Association - show guide or credential), in Piazza Pedicino, info@ostellofrancescano.com, www.ostellofrancescano.com, tel. 075-90.11.95 / 340-16.07.456. Castello di Giomici. When you have arrived at the Barcaccia, cross the bridge and 200 metres further on to the left, a small orange sign indicates the agritourism farm Castello di Giomici. Follow the sign (non-asphalted road uphill). After around 800 m on the left you find a large farmhouse: you have arrived. There are two families offering a welcome to pilgrims, in a setting in turn with the Way. 6 beds and 2 tent pitches, shower, dinner and breakfast. In return they ask for a donation or a little work. Andrea tel. 331-13.76.258, Marina tel. 331-13.09.197. At the parish church of Santa Maria Assunta, in the centre, in summer Don Bruno can grant Spartan arrangements, tel. 075-90.11.55. Camere Villa Verde, 20 bed places in double and single rooms, possibility of dinner, pilgrim prices. It enthusiastically hosts travelling pilgrims. Shuttle service to the Way of St. Francis if needed. www.camerevillaverde.it info@camerevillaverde.it. Ask for Simonetta, tel. 075-90.29.013 / 339-70.19.998.
The route The next two stages follow the route of the “Franciscan Path of Peace”, a praiseworthy initiative created for the 2000 Jubilee that goes over Francis’ stages from Assisi to Gubbio, when he fled his city after giving up his old life. WARNING!: the next two stages are 76
BISCINA CASTLE
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“infested” with all manner of markings: if you do not want to make pointless detours, then follow the descriptions in the guide and the yellow arrows and Taus. From Piazza San Francesco, turning your back on the town, turn left and cross the avenue that follows the course of the walls, then turning right at the arrow to La Vittorina (where it is said that the episode of Francis and the wolf happened [-]). Now Padre Francesco, a kindly friar minor, will open the door to you and welcome you into the precious little church. It is from here that the “Path of Peace” begins. The first section, well marked, is along the straight road that leads to Ponte d’Assi, located along which is the Hospital of San Lazzaro (the ancient leper hospital from St. Francis’ time). Once you have reached the end of the long straight road, turn left, joining the A-road, continue for around 900 metres until you reach the junction, then right to San Cipriano, where you leave the A-road and walk for around 600 metres until you join the A-road again, turning right. After around 200 metres, turn left, following the arrow to San Vittorino, then immediately turn right and take the asphalted lane, which rises pleasantly. Behind you is a magnificent view across the valley you are leaving and towards Gubbio again in the distance. After going downhill, turn left and then right at the junction (directions for “Agritur Valdichiascio”), joining a wide dirt road. If you want to visit the Abbey of Vallingegno [-], where Francis was a not very welcome guest of the Benedictines in the days of his 77
didascalia
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AT THE FOOT OF BISCINA
“flight” from Assisi and where he stayed subsequently, turn right at the junction and take the asphalted road that leads to the A-road (it is around 6 km there and back), to then turn left and walk along it as far as the abbey, which today is an agritourism farm. Ask there to visit the church. After the visit, retrace your steps to the point where you left the route. The dirt road begins to descend gently down to a little church, Santa Maria delle Ripe (little more than a tabernacle), very charming and secluded. After a short climb, go down along the dirt road to the gate of the Hermitage of San Pietro in Vigneto. Note that the hermit does not want to be disturbed, better to continue along the dirt road that descends, ignoring some side paths and take the well marked one that turns right. At a junction take a right turn (if it has not rained recently, continue straight on, it is shorter!) till you come to a steep descent; be very careful in the event of rain. At the end of the descent, you pass under the aqueduct, turn right, and after a few metres take the narrow path that climbs steeply up to the right, entering the wood. Come on, this is the last long slope of the day, which enables us to regain the altitude we had lost and coasts round the edge of fields and clearings, taking us uphill to the church of Caprignone. Unfortunately this church is in a state of abandonment and is always closed. Continuing to climb, more gently now and along a dirt road, when you reach the end of it, turn left, arriving in sight of Biscina Castle and the agritourism farm where you can stay in a pleasant, magnificent environment. 78
From the Hermitage of San Pietro in Vigneto continue along the dirt road as indicated in the guide. After around 1 km (15 minutes), you go past the path on the right that is the normal route that takes you to Biscina Castle, as the notice-board at the location indicates. Continue instead straight on along the dirt road and ignore this path. After around 300 metres you come to another junction. The dirt road bends to the left, but instead do take the road on the right that has a more rugged surface than the other (this path is marked with some green arrows). After 500 metres you must take a dirt road, turning right. Continued on this along the valley bottom for a further 2 km, coming to the umpteenth junction. Take the dirt road on the right that climbs quite steeply and after around 400 metres you join the asphalted road coming down from Biscina Castle. Continue, turning left onto the asphalted road and after 4.4 km (1 and a 1/4 hours) you come to the point where you join the route down from Biscina Castle. From here go straight on along the asphalted road, following the indications of the guide to Valfabrica (total variation 7.47 km - around 2 hours).
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Variation if you do not stay the night in Biscina and press on to Valfabrica
Normal route much longer: San Pietro in Vigneto - Biscina Castle - La Barcaccia - 16.6 km.
What to see Abbey and castle of Vallingegno The first documentary reference that attests to the existence of the monastery is the Legenda Sancti Verecundi, dating back to the mid-7th century; in 1131 it was named an “ecclesia Sancti Verecundi”. The abbey church consists of a rectangular roof-covered hall and pre-existing structures, such as the crypt, with a square plan and a central pillar. Outside the bell gable, erected on the masonry of the tower, is clearly visible, while its close proximity to the residential structures prevents you from viewing the main façade. Vallingegno might even have pagan origins; there has been talk of a temple dedicated to the god Genius, to which we can relate certain stone fragments, re-used as furnishings for the abbey. A short distance away stands Vallingegno Castle, probably built to protect the monastery. It is documented from the early 14th century, but is presumably of older origin; this small fortress soon acquired sufficient power and autonomy to justify its own army. The building is in good condition and reveals, still almost intact, the narrow Guelph merlon wall between two polygonal ramparts, controlled by the main tower. 79
THE BISCINA VALLEY AND ITS mists
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Hermitage of San Pietro in Vigneto The monastery of St.
Peter stands along the Roman via municipale that connected Assisi to Gubbio: it is possible that Francis and his companions were welcomed there. From outside only the bell gable reveals the presence of the chapel, documented from 1206; conserved inside are frescos from the 15th century. The addition of a tower and a fortified building, recorded in 1336, beside the residential structures belonging to the Benedictine monks, gives the impression that, more than a religious settlement, San Pietro in Vigneto was a fortress; a hospital for pilgrims is also mentioned in the same year.
Church of Caprignone The church and convent of Caprignone, of which only a few traces remain, were built by the Franciscans on the ruins of a pre-existing chapel. The interior of the oratory, which is catalogueable as a church-barn, is a single environment with a trussed roof. The only variation of the space is the narrowing of the apse area, preceded by the large triumphal arch and emphasised by increased luminosity compared to the nave.
Biscina Castle At the summit of one of the hills in the proximity of the River Chiascio is Biscina Castle. The construction date of the fortress is not known, but it is certain that it existed at the end of the 10th century. It is an irregular structure that envelops the inner courtyard and is open to the east, emerging above smaller volumes such as the church and, beyond, the valley below. Conserved in the northern elevation of the castle is one of the two towers that, in the original plan, protected the entrance to the courtyard. It seems certain that in the 13th there was a major via municipale that passed through Assisi and Gubbio; it was already named in the municipal statutes of Gubbio in 1371 and it is hypothesised that it ran alongside the River Chiascio for a considerable distance. We may suppose that Francis and his companions also travelled along it, at least partly, during their wanderings in the Umbrian countryside. 80
Francis at Caprignone and Vallingegno
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Francis and the robbers Francis sets out to walk from Assisi to Gubbio... He who formerly wore scarlet array was now going clad in scanty garments, and as he was singing praises to the Lord in French in a certain wood, some robbers suddenly rushed upon him. On their asking him in no friendly tone who he was, the man of God answered confidently with a loud voice, “I am a herald of the great King. What is that to you?” But they beat him and cast him into a pit filled with deep snow, saying, “Lie there, you clownish herald of God!” But he turned himself this way and that to shake off the snow, and when they went away he jumped out of the pit, and exhilarated by great joy began with loud voice through the grove to utter praises to the Creator of all things. At length he reached a cloister monastery where he spent several days as a scullion, wearing nothing but a wretched shirt, and desiring to be filled at least with broth. But when, meeting with no pity there, he could not even get any old clothing, he left the place, not moved by anger but urged by need... After Francis had lived and worked in Gubbio for some time... ... when the fame of the man of God was spreading everywhere and his name was noised abroad among the people, the Prior of the aforesaid monastery remembered and realized how the man of God had been treated and came to him and for reverence of the Saviour humbly begged forgiveness for himself and his monks... First Life by Thomas of Celano - 346
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