Retail Focus August 2016

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August 2016 ÂŁ4.00

Theatre of Forces

Virtual Reality

Luxury retail

London Design Festival

io ils Designer Stud Selfridges unve

August 2016/issue 78 New Designers review : Project Focus on Selfridges Designer Studio: Tryano: Boutique 1 : Virtual Reality : Luxury retail : London Design Festival : Focus on Technology : Q&A with Peter Ruis, Jigsaw

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26-27

Features Regulars Theatre of Forces

Architectural follies designed by creatives such as Gary Card, Anna Lomax and Patternity punctuate the new Designer Studio at Selfridges, lending itself to a curated gallery.

11 New Designers review

35 Virtual Reality in design 7

8

Leader

Design 45 London Festival 2016

26-33 P roject Focus

Selfridges Designer Studio : Tryano : Boutique 1

Diary

13-16 N ews

19-20 W indow shopping Inspiring window displays from around the globe.

22

Top of the POPS

25

Karl McKeever Against the backdrop of Brexit, retailers need to remain focused on their customers, argues Karl.

60

39 Luxury retail

43

Opinion

Focus on: Technology

66

Q&A

Jigsaw CEO, Peter Ruis talks Brexit, expansion plans and why every Jigsaw store has to be different.

Louisa Plant, head of marketing at Kinnersley Kent Design, discusses the good, the bad and the ugly in supermarkets.

49-58 Products Products and services for the retail industry.

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leader

August ‘16 There is an element of luxury in this issue of Retail Focus. In our cover story, we explore the Designer Studio at Selfridges, which joins the newly opened Body Studio, Denim Studio and Contemporary Studio on the third floor of the department store. Creatives such as Gary Card, Anna Lomax and Patternity have designed architectural follies that punctuate the space, lending itself to a curated art gallery (pages 26-27). Keeping with the luxury theme, Middle Eastern luxury fashion retailer Boutique 1 enters the European market with a store on London’s Sloane Street, designed by Caulder Moore (pages 32-33) and Chalhoub Group opens a specialty store in Yas Mall, Abu Dhabi that focuses exclusively on beauty, accessories and childrenswear (pages 29-30). The luxury goods industry has apparently entered a new phase, where conspicuous consumption is giving way to more meaningful luxury experiences. This month, we look at how leading luxury goods brands and retailers are embracing ecommerce and crafting authentic and meaningful luxury experiences (pages 39-40). On top of that, we consider the role of virtual reality in the design process (pages 35-36) and preview just some of the events set to take place during London Design Festival in September (pages 45-47). And in our Q&A, Jigsaw CEO Peter Ruis takes time out to talk Brexit, expansion plans and why every Jigsaw store has to be different (page 66). Phew. Enjoy...

Gemma Balmford Editor

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diary

Bread&Butter Arena Berlin, Germany 2-4 September 2016 Following the acquisition of Bread&Butter by Zalando in 2015, what had been a trade show for industry insiders is now a trend show for all to experience. Bread&Butter will be open to the public, breaking the circle of exclusivity, and empowering consumers to personally engage with fashion. Visitors will discover what’s hot now by interacting directly with brands they like in a digitally enhanced urban environment, with shoppable items, interactive shows, music performances and much more. With the theme NOW, Bread&Butter celebrates the diversity of today’s fashion and pop culture. The event will include brand stages, music, fashion shows and more. breadandbutter

www.breadandbutter.com

RIBA Regent Street Windows Project Regent Street, London 5-25 September 2016 The RIBA Regent Street Windows Project pairs RIBA architects with Regent Street retailers to create captivating architectural installations in store windows along and around London’s historic shopping street. The installations will coincide with partner events, London Design Festival and London Fashion Week.

Europe’s Customer Festival BDC, London 13-14 September 2016

Surface & Materials Show NEC Birmingham 18-20 October 2016

With a re-modelled agenda, Europe’s Customer Festival will focus on every aspect of the customer journey from start to finish. Visitors can take advantage of various speaker sessions and four dedicated tracks, focusing on: loyalty, experience, analytics and digital. Speakers include M&S,

The Surface & Materials Show presents a vital opportunity to keep up to date with all the functional and aesthetic advantages of today’s products. Whether actively specifying for floors, walls, work surfaces or ceilings, or looking for fresh ideas, the Surface & Materials Show is the ideal location for surfacing inspiration.

customerss RIBA

www.architecture.com

www.terrapinn.com/conference/ customer-festival

smshowUK

www.surfaceandmaterialsshow.co.uk

S E I R T N E R O F N E P O WWW.VMANDDISPLAYAWARDS.COM

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show review

New Designers: Flying High Claire Robinson and Zoe Wood of branding, retail strategy and design consultancy Portland Design took a particular interest in products created for airport environments at this year’s New Designers.

New Designers is an annual showcase of emerging design, held in the Business Design Centre in Islington, London. Every year more than 3,000 promising new graduates from across multiple creative industries come together to exhibit originality and innovation. The event gives visitors a real sense of the care and consideration that has gone into each of the designs as the graduates are present throughout the day and are very enthusiastic to discuss their work. We visited New Designers during part two of the exhibition, with a focus on furniture, product and spatial design. Upon entering, we were met with a general buzz of excitement and were happily overwhelmed by the amount of attendees and exhibitors present. The distinctive styles of each university was evident, not only in their work, but in their overall presentation and stand design — a welcome reminder that creativity expresses individuality. As designers from a company that specialises in travel retail, we took particular interest in students that had produced innovative designs for airport environments. Sara Pagani from Kingston University had designed airport seating specifically for meditation. The form of the seat had been considered to create a space purposefully for luggage storage and the wings on the chair had acoustic properties to help the user to separate themselves from the busy airport environment. The idea of a relaxing activity being introduced into a ‘traditionally stressful public place’ was an intriguing example of how recent wellbeing trends are influencing the way we design. From De Montfort University, Kayleigh Thornhill produced a modular seating range exclusively for business travellers. To encourage working while travelling, the design included a desk and seating area with a coat hook, power points and space under desk to safely store luggage. Materials had

Below:

Megan Reddi gave a live screen printing demonstration.

Above: Not on the High Street hosted its own stand. been carefully considered to be durable for the high traffic environment, a thought process cemented in our work at Portland. An interesting choice had been made to consciously design the chair so that it was slightly uncomfortable to discourage long dwell time in passengers. There was a common theme of adaptability throughout the exhibit, a vital design tool for the fast-paced world we live in. The Roll Top, a modular seating system for public spaces by Esme Taylor-Dye from Kingston University, allows for flexibility not only in arrangement but also in the seating position of the user. It was really encouraging to see examples of purposefully designed, intelligent, flexible furniture solutions which enables refreshment for the future, removing the hurdles of fixed, restrictive design. Another designer who caught our attention due to the experiential nature of her exhibit was Megan Reddi, from Coventry School of Art and Design, thanks to her bold colour palette and live screen printing demonstration. The playful and distinctive style of her designs really stood out to us among the array of furniture. While most of those exhibiting are graduates, the One Year On feature of the exhibition offers an insight into ‘young, entrepreneurial designers who are in their first year of business’. All these designers had gone through a selection process to earn their place at New Designers, giving this area an exclusive feel. We were particularly captivated by Rachel Howarth’s beautifully eye-catching textiles in her signature blue colour, which deservedly won her the One Year On part two award. Both Not on the High Street and Absolut Vodka encouraged visitors and exhibiters to express their creativity by decorating a wooden tag or Absolut bottle. At the end of the day we indulged our inner child by personalising our own tags and adding them to the display. It was pleasantly surprising to see how many people got involved in this slightly nostalgic activity, reminding us of time spent in the school craft corner as a child. Having caught a glimpse of some of the UK’s best new design talent we returned to our studio feeling excited about the new creative minds entering the design industry every year, bringing with them insight, original thinking and new approaches to problem solving. Congratulations to all the those who exhibited and we wish them every success in their future careers.

www.newdesigners.com www.portland-design.com 11


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news

Mamas & Papas launches new small format boutique Mamas & Papas has launched a small format store on Clapham’s Northcote Road with millennial parents-to-be in mind. Called One Four Four, the new 170 sq m boutique is part showroom, part community space, offering an edit of leading products alongside an emphasis on wellness, experiences and gifting. From pregnancy yoga to personal shopping, these services are perfectly pitched for the store’s location, which goes by the name of ‘Nappy Valley’ for its concentration of affluent young families. The retailer has worked with Dalziel and Pow to design the new store concept. One Four Four continues to differentiate the brand and shopping experience to meet the expectations of discerning millenial shoppers. These mobile-savvy, health and eco-conscious consumers demand multi-purpose,

inspirational stores with bespoke service, while using social media as a source of inspiration and self-expression. Downstairs in the boutique is the Studio, which transforms from an informative showcase and service area to host live events. A new collaboration with London fitness studio Frame means mums-to-be can attend bump sessions and pre/post natal nutritional talks with Frame experts in a programme of weekly local events. Externally, a distinctive shop front revealing the new One Four Four identity and colour palette fits harmoniously among the area’s upscale boutiques, while the expressive interior boasts a specially commissioned hand-painted mural by British artist Hannah Rampley. The artwork leads the shopper from ground floor to basement, its woodland tree and animal

motifs reflecting the brand’s new gifting range. There’s also a fresh tone of voice to target expectant parents (rather than those whose babies have arrived) through messaging that’s full of excitement and inspiration. The store is organised into ‘worlds’ based around key customer shopping missions, beginning with Baby Fashion, a welcoming, eclectic fashion boutique featuring a beautiful reclaimed wood floor and found furniture pieces. Customers then move onto Baby Home, with a helpful nursery selector tool, and a beauty area where a bespoke designed cart lines up Cowshed and Neals Yard products for sampling – an opportunity for the brand to include something specifically designed for mum and extend beyond the standard maternity products.

Victoria Gate Leeds confirms October opening date Project developer Hammerson has confirmed that Victoria Gate, its £165 million development in Leeds, and the anchor tenant John Lewis will open its doors to the public for the first time on Thursday 20 October 2016. Set to transform the city’s retail, dining and leisure offer, Victoria Gate will become part of the new 53,400 sq m Victoria Estate shopping district, which also includes Leeds’ Victoria Quarter arcades. The design includes a casino, multistorey car park for more than 800 cars, 30 stores, restaurants, cafes and leisure space. Altogether, the Victoria Gate development will accommodate around 42,000 sq m of retail and leisure space. The scheme is currently 74 per cent pre-let and will also boast new retailers and restaurants including Russell & Bromley, Aspinal of London, Le Pain Quotidien, Neom Organics, T2, GANT, Hackett, Tommy Hilfiger, Anthropologie and international restaurant group D&D.

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news

In brief... Retail marketing agency HRG has appointed Tina Thompson as its new digital projects director. The appointment follows the implementation of a new digital arm to the company’s marketing team, as the company looks to incorporate new trends in retail marketing including interactive video, in-store mobile apps and augmented reality. Andy Street, managing director of John Lewis, has been awarded an honorary degree at Birmingham City University. He joined the John Lewis Partnership after graduating from Oxford University in 1985 with a degree in Politics, Philosophy and Economics. Street became managing director of the John Lewis Division in 2007 and has led the business through times of significant change in both the economy and the retail industry. He has overseen John Lewis gross sales increasing in excess of 50 per cent to more than £4.4bn. Pantone has launched PANTONE Studio, a new iOS app for iPhone. The app provides creative industries with a digital tool to transform the creative process, offering a comprehensive, connected digital workplace where designers can experience its entire product and service offering. PANTONE Studio provides greater convenience in capturing Pantone colour from the world around you, building and testing that colour in palettes, and sharing work directly into design software on social media or with friends, clients, and collaborators.

Barber Design to revamp Sovereign Shopping Centre’s food court Property company Vixcroft has appointed Barber Design to aid in the renovation of one of its newly acquired shopping centres in Weston-super-Mare. The work will include a complete rebranding of the Sovereign Shopping Centre, including website design, wayfinding, signage and promotional material as well as a £500k revamp of the food court. Barber will transform the food hall into a light and airy, modern design with a traditional feel. Named The Galley, the new food court will offer six new units to national and independent local retailers and is expected to launch in September. Commenting on the refurbishment, Vixcroft chief executive, Daniel Carter

says: ‘We are committed to not only the regeneration of the Sovereign Shopping Centre but also to the regeneration of Weston-super-Mare. We want to see Weston’s economy thrive, and we want to play an active role in making it happen.’ Neil Overall, creative director at Barber Design, adds: ‘The way we shop today is completely different from 20 years ago. In response, the Vixcroft-owned centre is undergoing a full rebrand, bringing it up to date and appealing to visitors young and old. We have focused on beach inspired dining with kiosks individually named, branded and themed, and centred on traditional British cuisine.’

Tesco and Holland & Barrett announce partnership Tesco and Holland & Barrett have announced a new partnership to introduce a health and wellbeing store-in-store format in a number of Tesco stores across the UK. The new partnership follows Tesco’s successful introduction of several Arcadia sites in its larger stores last year, which showed that shoppers find it more helpful to combine shopping at Tesco with other well-known brands. The first Holland & Barrett store opened in the Dudley Tesco Extra on 25 July, with a number of further concessions set to be introduced over the summer. The new format will be integrated within Tesco’s store sales floors, enabling customers to shop across some 3,000 product lines from Holland & Barrett’s health, food, beauty and sports ranges. Customers will also be able to access Holland & Barrett’s popular natural beauty section showcasing the brand’s ethical and natural beauty products, its natural Tea Bar and Pick ‘n’ Mix station for healthy snacking.

V&A gift shop to undergo major redesign The gift shop at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London is set for a major redesign. The project will transform the museum’s main shop into a new flexible and dynamic space with better connections to surrounding exhibition spaces. The shop is planned to open in Spring 2017. Six teams competed in a competition for a £1 million overhaul of the gift shop, with architectural firm Friend and Co

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awarded the contract. The shop was designed by Eva Jiricna 10 years ago, but the impending Exhibition Road project designed by Amanda Levete will re-orientate the museum as part of the site’s ongoing FuturePlan project. FuturePlan is an ambitious programme of development that is transforming the V&A. The best contemporary designers are creating exciting new galleries and visitor facilities, while revealing and restoring

the beauty of the original building. In the past 10 years, more than 70 per cent of the museum’s public spaces have been transformed, improving access and allowing the collections to be more elegantly and intelligently displayed. By introducing bold new architectural interventions, FuturePlan aims to delight and inspire visitors, and to continue the museum’s tradition of championing new talent.


news

In brief continued

Models Own launches the Boxshop Following on from the popularity of Bottleshop, a retail kiosk in the shape of a nail varnish bottle, the next chapter for cosmetics brand Models Own is Boxshop, which takes inspiration from a make-up box. Models Own has been working with design studio The Yard Creative since 2011, and the vision for this latest concept is a brighter, bolder and bigger retail experience. The aim is to ban ‘boring’ from the everyday make-up routine by encouraging customers to switch up their look by trying new techniques or by having a go with alternative colours and palettes. Boxshop has been inspired by the idea of a make-up box — that treasured place where favourites are kept, containing only pride and joy items. The core categories — eyes, lips, face and nails —­ wrap around the perimeter of the store, and high level digital displays stream Models Own’s

The 2017 Surface Design Awards have been launched. Held annually, the awards celebrate progressive design and the use of innovative surfaces in projects both in the UK and internally. Ab Rogers of Ab Rogers Design and Tina Norden of Conran + Partners will co-chair the judging panel for the 2017 awards. The winners’ presentation will be held on Thursday 9 February 2017 on the last day of the Surface Design Show, and the deadline for entries is Friday 30 September 2016. vibrant video campaigns. The centre of the store is filled with theatre, demarked by an open pink box housing promotions and a play table. Particular focus was placed on designing a user-friendly space that helps shoppers understand how to use the products, as well as how to curate en vogue looks. The in-store graphic communications work hard to provide advice and guidance, while the play table promotes experimentation and is also a place to host live tutorials. A gun metal grey backdrop and exposed services create a raw and stripped back platform that allows the glossy, bold colours of the brand, cosmetics and communications to pop. Everything in the store is set out to encourage shoppers to get involved. The communication is friendly and supportive, with top tips at every turn. Customers should feel inspired to grab an edgy colour or confident to use a new

product that’s pushing their own personal make-up boundaries. The first Models Own Boxshop will open at Westfield Stratford in Q3 2016.

prints, which will be showcased in store amongst an eclectic mix of artist sketches, period prints and campaign photography. As always, attention to detail is key with the brand, and this will be evident

as Hackett London’s extensive bespoke, made-to-measure and personal tailoring services will be an important element in the store. A large tailoring room will provide visitors with an intimate experience.

Tesco opened a finest pop-up wine bar in London’s Soho earlier this month. Located at 147 Wardour Street in an art gallery that is closed for the summer, the wine bar opened from 2 August 13 August. A selection of discovery wine flights were on offer to help visitors discover varieties they might not know. Members of the Tesco wine team and other experts were on hand to advise visitors and answer any questions for the duration of the pop-up. For those wanting a more in-depth encounter with the wines, two 30 minute masterclasses took place daily in the Tasting Room, taking guests through four specially selected finest wines.

Hackett London to open in One New Change Hackett London will open a new store in One New Change in St Paul’s, London in August. The 205 sq m store will be divided into three different areas and joined by a panelled Georgian archway. The design concept will continue to incorporate Hackett’s signature Georgian influences as well as introduce new sleek and fun elements including parquet flooring, umbrella-shaped fitting room hooks and top hat lighting above the cash desk. The retailer has handpicked a selection of contemporary and abstract artwork by the late British artist Brian Blow who was renowned for his 1950/60s graphic

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news

New concourse at London Bridge station to open in August The first section of a new concourse at London Bridge station will be unveiled on Monday 29 August. A vital part of Network Rail’s Railway Upgrade Plan to provide a bigger, better, more reliable railway for passengers and businesses, the redevelopment of the station will improve customer journeys for passengers and provide new retail space. The massive concourse will be bigger than the pitch at Wembley Stadium once completed, and has been under construction beneath the operational railway for the past four years. The entire project will be completed in January 2018.

Fortnum & Mason to host art installation Fortnum & Mason in Piccadilly will host a month-long art installation next month featuring more than 60 works displayed throughout the store. The department store will become the temporary home of works from the Frank Cohen Collection, one of the most important collections of modern British art in private hands. Fortnum’s X Frank will open on 13 September 2016 and display artwork in various locations around the store, from the windows facing the Royal Academy to the wine bar, shop floor and through to the boardroom. This month-long collaboration takes place as the art world descends on the capital for the internationally celebrated Frieze Art Fair and continues Fortnum & Mason’s long history of supporting art and artists. Fortnum’s X Frank is curated by Robert Upstone, former director of Modern British Art at the Fine Art Society, which he joined in 2010 from Tate Britain where he was curator of Modern British Art.

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Starbucks opens express store format in London

Starbucks has opened its first express store in Europe, in London’s Canary Wharf. With an open layout, the new store features a walk-though experience and a streamlined menu at an early order point that allows customers to order, pay and pick up food and drink even faster. ‘We recognise some of our customers, especially busy commuters in Canary Wharf, are moving at a fast pace and want efficient, high quality service whatever the time of day,’ says Rhys Iley, vice president operations, Starbucks Europe, Middle East & Africa. ‘We’re excited to bring this unique store format to the UK, the first time for Starbucks outside of the U.S. and Canada. This follows the digital innovations we have rolled out to improve convenience for customers.’

Designed for people on-the-go who want Starbucks products, coupled with the efficiency that comes from knowing what they want, the store offers a welcoming environment with the barista and customer at its heart. Design features include natural wood and marble. The streamlined menu is displayed on digital menu boards that rotate throughout the day. For customers who choose to order ahead, Mobile Order & Pay is also integrated. ‘The new express format is the latest in our evolving store portfolio, which aims to meet the needs of our customers while keeping our baristas at the heart of the customer experience,’ adds Iley. The London launch follows successful express format store openings in New York, Toronto and Chicago.




visual merchandising

Window shopping Inspiring window displays from around the globe

Coach This latest window scheme at Coach celebrates the Coach hangtag, an iconic design element grounded in the brand’s heritage. The window design glorifies the iconic hangtag through a modern lens, and a sculptural approach that playfully interlaces dynamic movement and scale while hero-ing and enveloping the product. The hangtag first appeared on Coach bags in the 1950s, and has been placed by hand on every bag since the 1970s. ‘It’s not a Coach Bag, without a Coach Tag’, proclaims the window. Photography: Brian T. Silak

Printemps This summer, French art de vivre is at the heart of the shopping experience at Paris department store, Printemps. For the windows, Printemps commissioned French photographer Arnaud Pyvka to capture the essence of five iconic Parisian hotels: Le Bristol Paris, Le Meurice, Le Royal Monceau-Raffles Paris, Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme and Shangri-La Hôtel Paris. The bold display was enhanced by several luxury brands, including Bulgari, Caron, Dior, Elie Saab, Stella McCartney and Ferragamo.

Ara Vartanian Brazilian fine jewellery brand Ara Vartanian opened its first European flagship store in Mayfair, London in July with a window scheme based on space, planets and constellations. Designed, produced and installed by Millington Associates, the display reflects concepts at the heart of some of Ara Vartanian’s pieces.

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visual merchandising

John Smedley John Smedley has collaborated with British painter Doris A. Day Design to create nine exclusive pieces based on the theme ‘The Artistry of Knit’. For the launch, the Jermyn Street and Brook Street windows were transformed into miniature art studios, complete with paint pots and used artist palettes. The windows, created in collaboration with Tenn and One Big Company, also feature a banner graphic with the title ‘The Artistry of Knit’. Photography: D A Williamson Creative

Liberty To celebrate 40 years of punk, Liberty London collaborated with The Photographers’ Gallery to present ‘In Your Face’ — a series of iconic portraits and style statements that reflect the continuing legacy of punk.

Harvey Nichols Inspired by the Autumn/Winter catwalks, the latest Harvey Nichols window displays welcome a kaleidoscope of colour, breaking away from the traditional golden and bronzed hues associated with the season. Referencing the opulent floral prints seen at Prada and Gucci, and the brocade metal detailing showcased by Burberry and Mary Katrantzou, the Harvey Nichols windows feature organic flora overlaid with trellis for an abstract adaptation of the trend. Bespoke mannequins adorned with glitter celebrate the playful tone of the brand and offer a sense of fantasy and rebellion against the norm; as they fly through the windows on suspended swings.

FENDI

Jigsaw To celebrate the launch of the Jigsaw pre collection, inspired by Georgia O’Keeffe, and the opening of Tate Modern’s Georgia O’Keeffe exhibition, Jigsaw has created five individually designed windows. ‘The windows feature illustrations from Rob Phillips and Sam Kerr, with whom we collaborated with on this project,’ says Laura Curtis, windows and special concepts manager at Jigsaw.

FENDI has collaborated with UK artist Chris Wood for its Hues of Light window displays. Wood’s bespoke pieces in dichroic serve as a kaleidoscopic background to FENDI’s collections. ‘My work is a continual exploration of light and it never fails to surprise me,’ says Wood. ‘I often create work for specific places with specific needs and I always begin with the light. I make a physical model to look at how the light works in the space. For the FENDI windows project I did the same for each window and particularly looked at how the light will work in those windows during the summer.’ See more window installations online:

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POP

p o t POPS e h t f o

Company: Harlequin Design

Client: Uniqlo

Display title: UT Me Tank

Sector: Fashion

Location: 311 Oxford Street, London

The brief: To create a concept to display the many collaborations that Uniqlo has had over the past year for the brand’s UT t-shirt range. Reaching over womenswear, mens and kidswear offerings, the range has seen past collaborations with Kabuki, KAWS and Avengers.

The solution: A giant fairground grabber machine was produced with a clean design coinciding with Uniqlo’s fun and simplistic approach to the collaborations. A total of 75 forex boxes were constructed at Harlequin’s inhouse print factory with vinyl prints mounted to each face. Each box was individually branded to show the diversity within the range. A giant claw to match the Uniqlo red was installed on a bespoke frame work at the top of the tank. Vinyl borders were added to the tank to draw in the customers eye using a repeat print of assets from the collaboration. Customers have the opportunity to use an instant printing service for personalised UT t-shirts. Using an iPad, customers can design a t-shirt, sending the design straight to the printer in the store. Harlequin designed and produced the display stations, in line with the current in-store concept for the Wearhouse, focusing on black metal and stained timber. Two re-chargable iPad stations were produced as well as a TV unit, which plays a promotional video on a loop.

www.harlequin-design.com 22


harlequin-design.com | twitter.com/HarlequinLondon | facebook.com/harlequindesignlondon | +44(0)20 7253 6238 | London EC1V 0DS


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Karl McKeever Retailers shouldn’t be afraid of change The fallout from the UK’s referendum vote to leave the EU continues. Many across the country are still in a suspended state of confusion and shock as they attempt to make sense of what the future might hold. The doom-mongers were quick out of the blocks, as a wave of post-Brexit negativity threatened to take its grip on our nation. But, what must be remembered is that, ultimately, it’s only change. Monumental changes have been part of the retail industry for as long as it has existed. From the advent of self-serve, to recessions and the digital revolution, retailers have had everything thrown at them over the years. Yet they endure, they adapt and they grow. Against the backdrop of Brexit, retailers need to remain focused on their customers — ‘business as usual’ should very much be the message across the shop floor. Retailers that know who their customers are and talk to them, that deliver quality products at the right prices, that surprise and delight in-store and have well-organised and efficient operations that work for customers are most likely to succeed. Regardless of the challenge placed in front of them, retailers that have the fundamentals of good retailing in place always come out stronger. Little wonder then that it is the likes of John Lewis who have been making the headlines with stories of international growth, in recent weeks. Hotel Chocolat too has also been quick to downplay the Brexit impact. It appears that change can be positive too. The retailers that have a positive plan in place will not only find themselves in a better position than their competitors, but they will also be presented with new opportunities and avenues for growth. The changes in the value of the exchange rate have made the UK an even more attractive location for international shoppers. High-end and luxury brands, especially in the fashion sector, could find themselves getting busier, but they will need to be ready in order to take full advantage of the changing market. Positive changes could also be coming for retailers working in the duty free sector. If the decision is made to relax EU regulation on pricing, passengers travelling through the UK’s airports and ferry terminals could see even better deals on offer. Retailers may

also look to accelerate plans to sell and expand abroad. New trade deals could be agreed that open up new opportunities. Again, those retailers with solid operations in place, the ones that look ahead and embrace change, will be the ones that create opportunities for growth. While the message on the shop floor will be to remain focussed on the job in hand, retailers’ boardrooms should have their eyes (and their lawyers’ eyes) firmly fixed on the Brexit negotiations. There could be a whole raft of changes to legislation in the coming years, including consumer finance, disabled access, staff working hours, trading standards, labelling and product specifications, and retailers must be ready to act to either implement laws or lobby in opposition. Vigilance will be key; those that are on the ball and have the financial muscle to influence decisions could well improve their positions, although smaller firms might easily be caught out. In the same way that the referendum has given the UK the opportunity to truly forge its own path in the world, retailers will need to set out their own agenda and messaging, distancing themselves from the public’s potential Brexit fatigue. Promotional offers and ‘Brexit sales’ could make retailers look desperate in the eyes of the customer. Retailers should look to hold their nerve — any kneejerk reactions could severely damage their bottom lines. A thought-out, well-planned strategy should be ready to implement, with a view to the long-term outlook of the business. If the early signs of panic among customers begin to materialise, those with a plan in place should be well prepared to ride out of the storm. To borrow an overused phrase, we are a nation of shopkeepers; we know how to sell and keep shoppers coming back for more. The recipe of what makes a retailer successful remains the same; the key for growth in the coming years will be maintaining those day-to-day fundamentals, alongside delivery of the right leadership, mentality and focus. Change isn’t something to be afraid of. Over the last 40 years, embracing new challenges has kept the very best of retailing at the top. I fully suspect that is the one thing that isn’t going to change any time soon.

Karl McKeever is creative director of visual merchandising and brand delivery consultancy Visual Thinking.

Email Karl at karl@retailfocus.co www.visualthinking.co.uk

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project focus

Selfridges Designer Studio Oxford Street, London Design: Campaign Opening date: July 2016 Floor space: 1,580 sq m

Harry Gordon Selfridge once said, ‘Develop imagination, throw away routine’, which is what design firm Campaign set out to achieve with the first phase of the department store’s new Designer Studio. The space joins the newly opened Body Studio, the Denim Studio and the Contemporary Studio on the third floor to house a mix of new and established labels. Boutique concepts from J.W.Anderson, Vetements, Christopher Kane, Marni and Joseph are joined by international brands such as Maison Margiela, Undercover, Toga and Craig Green along with new names Dilara Findikoglu, Richard Malone, Le Kilt, Walk of Shame and Puma x Fenty in the 1,580 sq m space, which opened in July 2016. The architectural mood of the Designer

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Studio is a juxtaposition of raw and exposed, contrasted with classic and refined. ‘Honest, curated and considered define the principles of the architectural envelope,’ says a spokesperson for Campaign. ‘Honest in its exposed columns and walls, mingling with traditional and considered detailing.’ The environment continues to reveal the original 1909 architecture of the Selfridges building, with six of the closed windows opened up, allowing natural light to flood the space, and round columns reinstated. Traditional coffered ceilings with a new modern perimeter of articulated beams are brought together using concrete-effect tiling, providing continuity across the space. A series of architectural follies (installations-cum-retail fixtures) created

by a number of progressive artists, including Gary Card, Anna Lomax and Patternity, punctuate the area, lending itself to a curated gallery. The follies, inspired by a ‘Theatre of Forces’, are designed to adhere to three design principles: artistic, customisable and functional. Challenging the boundary of art and retail, each structure expresses the individual creativity of the artists, as well as acting as a tool for selling. ‘Our starting point for the development of the Designer Studio was the question: What does our customer want? What does she expect and what doesn’t she expect?’ says Sebastian Manes, buying and merchandising director at Selfridges. ‘We asked ourselves: How is she shopping the store up, down and across? This is


project focus Photography (left and below): richfoto

Photography (left and all below): Roman Thomas

particularly relevant in a time of fast moving digital retail. We want the experience to surprise and make sense simultaneously.’ The fitting rooms have a bold and playful feel, with curated furniture, painted OSB walls and satin brass ironmongery hinting at luxury. ‘Forces come into play with bespoke printed aerial landscapes, spanning across the fitting rooms and each fitting room bank, tells a different story, providing perfect backdrops for those selfie moments,’ explains the spokesperson for Campaign. The stylist fitting room is a sanctuary of mid-century furniture with subtle pink hues, and takes advantage of its corner location looking out over Oxford Street and Duke Street. The experience is rounded off with playlists chosen by the designers. The Designer Studio is a destination that addresses both the creativity and practicality of shopping for fashion, concludes Manes.

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project focus

Tryano Yas Mall, Abu Dhabi

Photography: Chalhoub Group

Design: HMKM Opening date: November 2015 Store size: 20,000 sq m

Fantasy, luxury and technology combine to create a memorably immersive experience at Chalhoub Group’s latest specialty store, located in Yas Mall, Abu Dhabi. Designed by London-based HMKM, Tryano is spread across three floors and focuses exclusively on beauty, accessories and childrenswear. Taking Tryano’s vision of a retail experience that is ‘alive, entertaining, specialised and remarkable’ as its starting point, HMKM developed a ‘Garden of the Imagination’ concept; an ever-evolving retail landscape that changes with the seasons. ‘The grand tradition of French formal garden design, epitomised by the magnificent landscape surrounding the Palace of Versailles, inspires the store’s elegant layout,’ explains a spokesperson for HMKM. ‘Central avenues divide the space

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punctuated by theatrical pavilions like the Grand and Petit Trianons, so the store’s formal plan is brought to life by a series of one-of-a-kind architectural elements,’ says the spokesperson for HMKM. ‘Each pavilion is inspired by a different aspect of nature. In the case of beauty and bags, these are defined by the notion of the 18th century pleasure garden, while the children’s floor in conceived as a less formal, more playfully interactive adventure garden.’ Opened to coincide with the first anniversary of Yas Mall, Tryano houses more than 250 international and local brands as well as a La Pâtisserie des Rêves restaurant. into a series of parterres, surrounded by colonnades which house a sequence of destination brand boutiques.’ A multilevel geometric trellis woven from timber and steel, and featuring digital screens forms the store’s interactive facade. Developed in partnership with digital agency KIN, the screens allow the store exterior to blossom with virtual foliage over the course of each day. In keeping with the garden theme, the design of each area in store is inspired by nature’s changing seasons. At the start of the journey, the customer walks through a grand reception hall with autumnal coloured marble flooring and timber-clad columns towards the central atrium, which is flooded with natural light. The first floor houses a beauty space that is inspired by winter. Here, shards of icy mirror and crackled glass cling to vertical surfaces, while metallic floor tiles and mirrored fixtures emphasise a mood of pristine elegance. On the opposite side of the floor, the handbag area takes its cues from spring, with soft rugs and bespoke sculptural tiles, designed in collaboration with London-based practice Giles Miller Studio. In gentle hues of rose, lilac, lavender and taupe, the tiles spread round columns and across shopfronts like cascades of climbing flowers.

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On the top level, meanwhile, the children’s department is adorned with vibrant summertime colour and playful textures, from rainbow-coloured glass butterflies to ombre-dipped cork. In the centre of the floor, a fairytale mirrored carousel evokes the enchantment of Versailles, lined with crystal spotlights and crowned with a mirrored canopy patterned in summery shades of green and gold. Throughout the store, the customer’s journey is guided by swathes of scattered tonal tiles, a detail inspired by the feeling of walking along garden paths lined with swept leaves. ‘Just as Versailles’ gardens were


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project focus

Boutique Sloane Street, 1 London Design: Caulder Moore Opening date: June 2016 Store size: 1,300 sq m

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project focus

Middle Eastern luxury fashion retailer, Boutique 1 opened its first European store in June, on London’s Sloane Street with a design by Caulder Moore. Spread across two floors, the store can be accessed on Sloane Street and Pavilion Road, and houses ready-to-wear, accessories, eveningwear, beachwear, fine jewellery and books, as well as a cafe created by Pablo Flack and David Waddington of London restaurant Bistrotheque. In keeping with Boutique 1’s global store concept, the aesthetic for the London location is understated and discreetly luxurious. Natural materials are used throughout the interior, providing a quiet backdrop that allows the products to take centre stage. The colour palette is neutral, with accents of matte black and brushed brass appearing on doors, stair railings and display fixtures. Meanwhile, oak and unpolished travertine flooring along with sandblasted limestone walls add natural texture to the space. The furniture has been carefully considered to create an ‘at home’ feel and includes chairs and oversized benches upholstered in natural linens for a ‘lived in’ look. Ian Caulder, executive creative director at Caulder Moore, says: ‘We worked with Boutique 1 to create a gallery-like atmosphere for the edit of designers that while luxury is also quite contemporary. The space is very flexible so certain lines and new designers can be highlighted rather like staging a new exhibition.’ With customer service underpinning the Boutique 1 experience, the store offers a personal styling team, in-house complimentary tailoring, VIP fitting room and a same-day delivery service available throughout London. As part of the retailer’s omnichannel proposition, a click-andcollect service is also available for orders placed online. The Boutique 1 London store joins the retailer’s existing portfolio of stores in Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Beirut, and forms an integral part of the redevelopment of the Sloane Street area by Cadogan Estates.

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virtual reality

THE NEXT STEP:

VIRTUAL REALITY Text: Lyndsey Dennis

With the need to produce more refined and creative store experiences, virtual reality is a powerful aid in the design process, finds Retail Focus. Unless you’ve been living on Venus the last few weeks, Pokémon Go has become a global phenomenon. The game sees people walking around searching for virtual monsters which they can then train to fight other monsters. Moving aside from gaming, in the retail design hemisphere it seems virtual reality can be a very intelligent and useful tool in the store design process. ‘VR offers designers a completely new tool, allowing them to design whilst immersed in the environment they are designing. By not taking designers out of the space to design, as is the case with 2D design, it allows them to immediately see the impact of decisions regarding materials, form, colour etc,’ says Sol Rogers, CEO/founder of virtual reality and creative production agency, REWIND:VR. ‘This makes the design planning process more flexible and it allows designers to be more experiential, which may lead to concepts that just wouldn’t be conceived in more traditional processes. Furthermore, Above: Sol Rogers, CEO/founder of REWIND:CO, says it’s only a matter of time before VR is a standard tool within the design process.

the whole body can be used so that both the dimensional and the ergonomic relationships of spaces and elements can be explored and developed.’ Rogers notes there has been a lot of media coverage about VR and empathy, as it allows you to experience life as someone else, but it also allows you to design in someone else’s shoes too. For example, you could explore and design from a child’s point of view, literally, if your retail environment was aimed at that audience. ‘Architects are using VR to check their designs and walk clients through their projects before even a brick is laid; engineers are viewing their projects in VR to gain a greater understanding of how it works and using it to spot flaws and potential risks before implementation. VR is already being adopted within the design process within many different industries and it will just continue to gather more acceptance and momentum because of it’s many benefits,’ says Rogers. ‘To “experience” means to be able to walk (or even fly!) around this new store or concept model and experience it at a 1:1 scale; every key space, every detail from every angle and any journey in or around

that space. This high fidelity experience is consumable by all stakeholders at any stage, be that the designer, a consumer focus group, the CFO, key suppliers or perhaps the local community,’ says Dan Harper, managing director of Cityscape Digital, a 3D creative studio specialising in vitual reality and visualisation. Cityscape Digital recently unveiled a virtual reality installation at the RIBA Constructing Communities launch to demonstrate how the technology can revolutionise the way in which people view and interact with design proposals. ‘The installation was an interesting showcase of new innovation in architecture and design. The work Cityscape Digital has done to translate the Constructing Communities entry is very inspiring and highlights the exciting developments virtual reality technology can offer to the architecture profession,’ says Marcelo Ventura, development manager at RIBA. ‘If you really want to break the mould, realise disruptive and yet successful concepts, get creating in a VR environment from a blank canvas; as you start creating, unexpected and coincidental variants will emerge, fuelling an instinctive, experimental and unconstrained search to generate new design patterns. Once the concept is known, then it’s using the power of VR to look at all the key spaces — does the point

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virtual reality

of sale feel comfortable for the customer, does the entrance feel inviting, what is the visibility of key retailing zones?’ explains Harper. ‘In terms of getting detailing right, you can add all of the detailed fittings and finishes, to understand exactly what the store/retail premises will look like and how it will feel to shop, eat or stay in.’ Live modelling is possible so everything from redesigning whole concepts to tweaking can be done live in a facilitated session with internal stakeholders or say a focus group with customers. Harper suggests getting customers to create their store of the future (facilitated by them giving instructions to a trained VR specialist who builds it in real-time). From September, the software company that retail consultancy Shopworks currently uses will be launching a new VR compatibility feature. ‘This will allow us to see the design from a real life perspective and to pick up on any aspects which we might have missed,’ says Ross Wakefield, head of design at Shopworks. ‘More interesting, however, is how virtual reality is now designed into schemes that we are producing. Virtual reality is becoming more than just a design tool as its applications for the retail sector are more far reaching.’ Moving forward, Shopworks is developing virtual reality and augmented reality retail solutions that directly connect with the customer journey and consumer shopping missions. ‘We have also been developing 360 degree virtual store tours to use as research tools. These allow us to obtain valuable qualitative customer feedback on a store concept design without the retailer needing to undertake the expensive process of building a prototype store or mockshop,’ explains Wakefield. ‘Engaging with consumers on an

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Above main: Cityscape Digital recently unveiled a virtual reality installation at the RIBA Constructing Communities launch to demonstrate how the technology can revolutionise the way in which people can view and interact with design proposals. Above inset: Green Room is embracing the use of virtual reality within the design process. omnichannel level is becoming increasingly important for the retailer and we expect to see the line between online and offline becoming increasingly blurred in the next five years. You only have to look at the unprecedented uptake of Pokémon Go to see how if retailers can capture consumers’ imagination then the commercial benefits are exponential.’ Design consultancy Green Room has been creating 360 degree video of its projects for use in case studies for some time, and has started to look at how VR can make the design process more efficient and how it can support the collaborative client relationship. ‘At Green Room we’re particularly interested in two questions. [The first question is] can VR help our clients to understand the spaces we design better?

We’ve seen that VR can be an excellent way to put someone into the heart of design and help them to appreciate the physicality of the space. We’re not yet in the position where we’re modifying designs in VR (which sounds fun), but if it can help a client to actually “see” a line of sight, then we’re winning,’ says Andrew Bowyer, digital director at Green Room. ‘[The second question is] can VR help us to plan retail campaigns and content more effectively? VR seems very promising as a tool to help us design the right density or intensity of video content in a three-dimensional space where, for example, the customer may be able to see four screens at any one time and could easily be distracted or overwhelmed,’ continues Bowyer. ‘VR has the ability to depict fine grain details due to high end graphics, a fast refresh rate and realistic sound and movement creating realistic prototypes and environments. It allows design teams to observe their project within safe environments and make changes as and where necessary. This saves time and money; you can’t really argue with that can you? It’s only a matter of time before VR is a standard tool within the design process,’ concludes Rogers.

Left: Shopworks used virtual reality to design an exhibition stand for Azerbaijan mobile telecom provider Nar, built around it’s new brand concept of creating comfortable, interactive spaces inspired by nature.


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luxury retail

Breaking tradition

Text: Gemma Balmford

Leaders in the luxury goods market are embracing ecommerce and crafting authentic and meaningful luxury experiences, finds Retail Focus. The luxury goods industry has apparently entered a new phase, where conspicuous consumption is giving way to more meaningful luxury experiences. According to Euromonitor International’s Global Luxury Goods Trends Report, luxury brands and retailers are seeking ways to expand their portfolios, driving up investment in luxury experiences and lifestyle branding. Despite globalisation, authenticity, quality, exclusivity and unique luxury experiences are set to grow in importance for consumers, suggests the report, and luxury brands will have to ensure that they maintain sales without becoming too mainstream. ‘Luxury is moving away from a highly branded commodity category, to crafted individualised experiences and products,’ says George Gottl, co-founder of design consultancy Uxus, which works for Above: The newly refurbished Fine Jewellery Room at Harrods, designed by David Collins Studio.

clients including Selfridges and Sephora. ‘True luxury today is about craft. Crafted products, crafted experiences and crafted spaces.’ Today and in the future, personality is everything, believes Gottl. ‘People want real experiences, made by real people who have a unique view on the world and offer excellence and quality on all levels. What we are seeing is a movement away from the traditional luxury big box brands to localised crafted artesian experiences.’ Architect Nick Leith-Smith, who designs stores for luxury shoemaker Manolo Blahnik, agrees that sensitivity and consideration to geography, demographic and materials are key to creating a unique experience. ‘Brands and retailers are increasingly understanding that they can’t simply create an environment which is an extension of their brand,’ he says. ‘Consumers appreciate and want to buy into the entire story underpinned by a unique in-store experience. ‘With our work for Manolo Blahnik, we always create a distinct personality

for each space, in response not only to location but to match the innovative and eclectic nature of the brand.’ For the new Manolo Blahnik shoe salon at Selfridges London, Nick Leith-Smith drew inspiration from Blahnik’s affinity with Bath, which is steeped in neoclassical and Georgian architecture, as well as the work of neoclassical architect, Robert Adam. The space has a monochromatic look, with dark wood cabinetry and furniture contrasted with shades of palest honey-toned panelling and table tops, thoughtfully accented with brass detailing and splashes of colour. As always, the Spanish designer’s style, humour and playful irony subtly resonate to create a space to reflect, shop and appreciate the artistry of his shoes. For the launch of the salon, Blahnik designed a limited edition shoe that came with a framed sketch of the style drawn and signed by the designer. ‘Changes in consumers’ attitudes and perception are forcing and making the luxury world more daring in their

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luxury retail

Left: The new Harvey Nichols ground floor Beauty Lounge. Right: The new Manolo Blahnik shoe boutique at Selfridges London.

communication and design strategies, breaking the traditional model,’ says Carlos Virgile, director at design studio Virgile + Partners, which worked with Harvey Nichols on the new menswear department and Beauty Lounge. Real luxury will always be about providing service, maintains Virgile, whether that’s through digital communication and e-commerce or in-store. The new Harvey Nichols ground floor Beauty Lounge is the latest stage of an ambitious redevelopment plan for the Knightsbridge store. The dedicated area is open early morning until late, offering express services from blow dries to manicures. ‘The ground floor at our flagship store is the portal to our brand, so we’ve set out to create an impactful and luxurious environment to welcome customers,’ says Stacey Cartwright, group chief executive officer at Harvey Nichols. ‘We believe we have created an unrivalled destination for beauty in London, offering the best edit of beauty and fragrance brands, both global and niche, driven by the highest level of customer service from our beauty advisors and concierge team.’ As competition within luxury goods brands intensifies, retailers are embracing new technology as a means to differentiate themselves and to enhance the shopping experience, states the Euromonitor report. However, in contrast to high street stores, this technology is usually carefully and seamlessly integrated into the overall concept and experience so is not that apparent, notes Lewis Taylor, design director at David Collins Studio, which specialises in luxury interior design. ‘Such technological advances are mainly used for increasing customer service levels, customer insights, CRM and stock management.’ While there was once skepticism at the idea of selling luxury goods online, ecommerce is now one of the biggest growth stories in luxury goods retailing,

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according to the Euromonitor report, and is set to be the industry’s key battleground over the next five years. ‘The path-to-purchase in luxury is evolving, with more luxury brands, such as with Prada recently, available directly online,’ says Taylor. ‘These channels are great for the brand to project its tone of

voice and heighten the customer brand experience, in addition to the bricks and mortar store. ‘There will always be physical stores, but with omnichannel purchasing, brands are showcasing ever-changing and unique offers in-store to ensure customers return.’

Knightsbridge Estate:

From high street to high end Since developer Chelsfield acquired the Knightsbridge Estate on London’s Brompton Road in 2010, the tenant mix has moved away from high street brands to more premium and luxury stores, such as Tommy Hilfiger, Porsche Design and Watches of Switzerland. Where possible, the real estate firm has removed and replaced modern shopfronts with facades more sympathetic to the building as a whole, bringing the architecture from the upper part of the building down to street level. It has also put in place an estate-wide lighting scheme to accentuate the features of the buildings, and is about to embark on a pavement widening scheme to improve pedestrian flow. Watches of Switzerland is the latest store to open on the estate, which sits between Harvey Nichols and Harrods. The three-storey luxury watch showroom is part of the company’s ‘Golden Triangle’ strategy, which includes

the Regent Street and Oxford Street locations. It houses the UK’s largest Patek Philippe in-store boutique, as well as a Rolex boutique and an exclusive VIP area on the second floor. At the heart of the store is a triple-height atria space with a dramatic OLED Blackbody light installation, featuring 200 drops that appear to float between the ground and first floor. ‘Bricks and mortar remains one of the best ways for luxury retailers to showcase their products,’ says Sarah Waller, asset manager at Chelsfield LLP. ‘We are seeing retailers focusing more on delivering stores that are adapted to suit the needs of the specific markets. Rather than rolling out a standard shopfit, retailers are assessing the needs of the local market to ensure that the finishes and service offer best meets the needs of the people walking in through the front door.’


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opinion

,Unexpected item , in bagging area Louisa Plant, head of marketing at Kinnersley Kent Design, discusses the good, the bad and the ugly in supermarkets. News that the combined sales of Lidl and Aldi now equal those of Morrison’s exemplifies how tough the market still is for the UK’s Big Four. Those supermarkets that continue to be successful are either discounters or premium grocers focused on prestige and high-quality food credentials. For the mid-market, it’s important to keep a laser-sharp focus on customer needs and key trends. Here are the pointers we believe are key:

1. Convenience Convenience is both a huge challenge and a massive opportunity. Millennials in particular expect and demand convenience. They want it now — online or offline — but they don’t want to pay extra or sacrifice quality. Same-day delivery obviously creates operational complexity, while another key challenge is how to answer the transactional drive for convenience without losing the opportunity to connect with customers emotionally.

demonstrate staff expertise. Shopping is thereby less of a chore, inspiring customers to return more frequently.

Bad example: Click & Collect

Good example: Amazon Fresh Same-day grocery delivery, or one-hour timed slots the following day. Fantastic convenience, but far from free (£79 per year for Prime membership plus £6.99 a month for Fresh). Interesting to see whether the up-front registration cost will be a barrier for customers?

Bad example: Self-Service Tills Some 39 per cent of customers would like to see self-serve checkouts replaced by manned tills in stores (Shop4pop.com survey, 2016). Self-scan apps and mobile payments could be the answer to convenience without the annoyance. Waitrose’s ‘Quick Check’ app lets customers scan as they shop, adding items straight to their bags. The app produces a barcode to scan at the self checkout to pay, avoiding the dreaded ‘unexpected item in bagging area’.

Even when it works well, it remains very functional. If Click & Collect is purely about convenience, there’s no need for customers to go in-store. Amazon-style lockers could simply be provided on the store’s exterior. But, there’s a missed opportunity then to inspire customers while they wait through content, cross-merchandising and hospitality provision.

3. Ethics It is reported that 55 per cent of global customers believe ‘transparent and open business practices’ are important to building trust in a company (Edelman Trust Barometer 2016). Tesco in particular is still rebuilding damaged trust, but, in general, all supermarkets need to work much harder to win trust from customers disillusioned with big business. UK customers are increasingly socially-conscious and brands must foster a sense of integrity to reach them, not only by communicating praiseworthy values but by behaving accordingly, with transparency at every level of the business, from supply chain to shop floor.

Good example:

2. Inspiration

LØS Market, Copenhagen

Providing inspiration helps build a stronger relationship with customers. This opportunity is particularly key for The Big Four, as Waitrose and M&S are already considered leaders in quality, and Aldi and Lidl ‘own’ extreme value. Mid-market grocers could develop a clearer value proposition to the customer by becoming more of a lifestyle choice. A key opportunity is the huge trend towards nutritional health and wellbeing as social currency. People also increasingly want memorable food experiences, especially ones they can share on social media.

Scandinavia’s first zero-packaging supermarket is set to open in September. Following packaging-free grocers, Unpackaged in the UK and Unverpackt in Germany, customers at the crowdfunded supermarket will bring their own containers to stock up from a range of more than 400 organic products.

Good example: Waitrose Worcester This store encourages dwell time through a range of experiences, including a bar and a sushi island, which both create theatre and

Ugly (but good) example: Whole Foods’ Ugly food scheme Following in the footsteps of French supermarket Intermarche’s ‘Inglorious Fruits and Vegetables’ food campaign, the grocer has signed up to a scheme to sell ‘ugly’ fruit and vegetables that wouldn’t normally make it on to supermarket shelves, in a bid to tackle food waste.

www.kkd.co.uk 43


16Th aNnUal 13 - 14 sEpTemBeR 2016 bUsIneSS dEsIgn cEntRe, lOnDon

100’s of BrandS, 80+ Speakers, 30+ ExhibItors, 4 ConfeRence Streams: eXpeRiEncE

lOyaLtY

dIgiTaL

aNalytics

2016 Speakers JP Kuehlwein Alex Mead Managing Director, Global Chief Customer Officer Strategy & Innovation Golfbreaks.com Premium Products Procter & Gamble

Anna Kirah Head of Service Design and the Customer Experience Unikia

James Libor Marketing Technology Manager Virgin Holidays

Mads Jensen Head of Marketing Communications & PR Søstrene Grene

Stacie Maxey Director of Database Marketing Domestic & General

Geoff Richards Head of Data, Analytics & Insight Condé Nast

Julia Porter Director of Consumer Revenues Guardian

Garreth Cameron Strategic Liaison Group Manager ICO

Hannah Rustin Customer Experience Lead Moss Bros

Kerensa Samanidis Head of Digital Products BFI

Eloise Smart Brand Strategy Director StoryWorks

Markus Hohl CEO Hellon

Matthias Murin Head of Customer Service DocMorris

Kirsty Montgomery International CRM Manager Hunkemöller International

Martin Greenbank Head of Advertising & Development Channel 4

Ian Drake Director of Customer Engagement Betsson Group

Nathan Ansell Global Director-Loyalty Customer Insight and Analytics M&S

Bia Bezamat Innovation Consultant GDR Creative

Chris Haighton Head of Customer Service Transformation Shop Direct

Kristin Mollerpass Loyalty Manager Norwegian Air Shuttle

Stephen Cooper Partner Manager UK Market Norwegian Air Shuttle

Jason De Winne, General Manager, UK ICLP

James Leech Digital, Technology & Innovation Manager Customer Services Argos

10% off for Retail Focus readers

Enter ‘TRXZ’ at checkout to save 10%

Visit terrapinn.com/customer-rf for the full agenda and speaker line-up


LDF preview

Text: Lyndsey Dennis Photography: London Design Festival 2015, www.londondesignfestival.com

LDF:

DESIGN IS IN THE

DETAIL As well as 400 events and installations, this year’s London Design Festival will also welcome the first London Design Biennale to the capital. Now in its 14th year, London Design Festival will return to the capital in a citywide celebration that brings together a global community of designers, artists, architects and retailers. More than 400 events and installations will take place, from an engaging programme at the Victoria & Albert Museum to large scale installations across landmark locations. ‘Since the London Design Festival started in 2003, it has always welcomed the world to our great city but has also inspired over 100 other cities to produce their own annual design event,’ says John Sorrell, chairman of London Design Festival. ‘If you believe in design, you know it makes the world a better place and I say the more international design dialogue the better!’ This year, the first ever London Design Biennale will take over the entirety of Somerset House, bringing together some of the world’s most exciting and ambitious designers, innovators and cultural bodies for an exhibition exploring the role of design in

our collective futures. More than 36 nations from six continents are developing presentations that explore the Biennale’s ‘Utopia by Design’ theme, addressing issues such as sustainability, migration, pollution, water and social equality. ‘I am excited that this year’s festival will run parallel with the inaugural London Design Biennale, which will bring 40 countries to London to present design installations at Somerset House, based on the theme Utopia by Design,’ says Sorrell. ‘The Biennale will overlap with our city-wide festival programme, and the unique combination of these two events will offer a worldwide window on design — a must-see design experience for design lovers from all over the world.’ The Victoria & Albert will continue its collaboration with the LDF. As the core location of the festival, the museum will again house a broad range of installations, events, talks and workshops. Each day of talks at the V&A is themed, helping visitors and participants to make the most of their time and interests during the festival. This year the themes are Graphics, Future/Liveable Cities, Makers, International, Engineering, Working in Design and Digital Design. Returning for a fifth year, The Global Design Forum is the festival’s annual programme of talks and discussions, exploring the role of design in a sustainable and prosperous future. The 2016 forum will focus on profiling the industry’s pivotal figures who will each discuss their work against the background of a particular topic during Masterclass sessions and will provoke debate through daily panel discussions. The festival welcomes British Land as Headline Partner for the first time. ‘Our vision is to create “Places People Prefer” and design forms an integral part of delivering buildings and environments that make a positive difference to people’s lives. Our

Above: Elytra Filament Pavilion by Thomas Auer, Moritz Dörstelmann, Jan Knippers and Achim Menges in John Madejski Garden, part of the V&A Engineering Season.

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LDF preview

partnership with the London Design Festival celebrates the world’s leading designers across different design disciplines. It’s a great partnership for us; at the heart of good design is the challenge to deliver the most impact and best outcome for the user, whether it is an individual product, a single building or the wider environment,’ says Chris Grigg, CEO of British Land. The British Land Celebration of Design Awards will return for a second time, with a dinner to celebrate the winners at the iconic new development at the Tate Modern. There will be eight design districts at LDF this year: Bankside Design District, Brompton Design District, Chelsea Design District, Clerkenwell Design District, Islington Design District, Queens Park Design District, Brixton Design Trail (new for 2016) and Shoreditch Design Triangle. A number of partner shows will take place across the capital, including 100% Design at Olympia, Decorex International at Syon Park, designjunction at King’s Cross, Focus/16 at Design Centre Chelsea Harbour, and London Design Fair (including Tent London and Super Brands London) at Old Truman Brewery.

Landmark Project: MINI LIVING In our increasingly globalised and digitally connected world, ‘third places’ — those that blur the boundaries between work and home — are growing steadily in importance. Supported by MINI, this year’s Landmark Project develops themes first explored in the ‘MINI LIVING — Do Not Disturb’ installation at this year’s Salone del Mobile in Milan. MINI LIVING reveals the brand’s vision of ‘space between spaces’, which have been conceived with multiple purposes in mind. Intelligently designed and interconnected, they are both versatile and still able to meet individual needs. A variety of ‘third places’ will be presented around the city during the festival, each tailored to the needs of the urban society. Visitors will be able to explore places to relax and meet, and places for productivity.

Landmark Project: The Smile AHEC, Alison Brooks Architects, Arup, Merk and the London Design Festival will collaborate to create a new installation called The Smile, supported by the American Hardwood Export Council. The Smile is a cross-laminated hardwood installation that can be inhabited and explored, and which offers a new way of looking at the city. The curved floor, ceiling and walls create a dynamic and unfamiliar internal space. It is an undulating environment, something between a landscape, an adventure playground, a bridge and a diving board. Arup’s engineering team are working with LDF to derive the most efficient structural form, using only 80 cubic metres of wood

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to create a 180 sq m space. The forces of tension and compression working in the timber CLT walls will be expressed by perforations in its elevations. These will generate patterns of light across The Smile’s interior spaces during the day, to become an urban lantern at night.

Foil British design entrepreneur Benjamin Hubert of experience design agency Layer has collaborated with Braun to create Foil, an immersive installation located in the V&A’s Tapestry Gallery. Foil will comprise a 20m-long undulating ribbon comprising 40,000 individual metallic elements that will run down the entire length of the room. The ribbon will move continuously and dynamically in a wave formation, reflecting and scattering light around the gallery.

Liquid Marble French multi-disciplinary designer Mathieu Lehanneur invites viewers to enter into a meditative state with Liquid Marble, a large piece of black marble sculpted into a realistic yet static representation of the ocean’s movement. His installation will be a variation of his ongoing series exploring the materiality of marble, displayed in the V&A’s galleries. Liquid Marble is a sculptural piece created combining advanced digital and man-made methods of construction. Designed using 3D software, an expanse of black marble is


LDF preview

Far left: AHEC, Alison Brooks Architects, Arup, Merk and the London Design Festival will collaborate to create a new installation called The Smile, supported by the American Hardwood Export Council. Left: The Green Room is a monumental installation at the V&A, conceived by London design studio Glithero in partnership with luxury watch maker Panerai, that changes perceptions of what a clock can be. Below left: Mathieu Lehanneur invites viewers to enter into a meditative state with Liquid Marble Top right: The RIBA Regent Street Windows Project pairs RIBA architects with Regent Street retailers to create captivating architectural installations in store windows. Below: Benjamin Hubert has collaborated with Braun to create Foil, an immersive installation located in the V&A’s Tapestry gallery. Below right: This year, the first ever London Design Biennale will take over the entirety of Somerset House.

include their own installation of a ‘living’ room inspired by nature, as Emile Galle was when designing the iconic Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque bottle in 1902. L’Eden by Perrier-Jouët will also be programmed with a variety of events open to the public around design and PerrierJouët champagne. The name L’Eden is taken from the name of Perrier-Jouët’s most exclusive cellar in Epernay for its top vintages, where the Cellar Master keeps his best secrets.

RIBA Regent Street Windows Project Now in its seventh year, the RIBA Regent Street Windows Project pairs RIBA architects with Regent Street retailers to create captivating architectural installations in store windows along the street from 5-25 September. This is a unique opportunity for RIBA chartered practices and members to demonstrate the innovative ways in which they work while allowing for a direct interaction with London’s public and visitors on its most iconic retail destination. Enjoy exploring London and celebrating design at the hundreds of events and installations taking over the capital next month.

digitally sculpted and then polished by hand to achieve a highly reflective surface. The piece is intended to evoke waves with a liquid appearance that resemble fossils in solid marble.

The Green Room The Green Room is a monumental installation at the V&A, conceived by London design studio Glithero in partnership with luxury watch maker Panerai, that changes perceptions of what a clock can be. The installation will take over a stairwell in the museum, which will be transformed by designers’ intervention for the first time. The raking light that streams in through the large round windows will create a telescopic feeling, enhancing the cinematic experience. Emulating the circular motion of the arms of a clock, The Green Room is both interactive and performative. The space will be delineated by veils of colourful strings, with hues blending into each other, creating an optical effect. The strings will be lifted and then dropped by a motorised revolving CAM arm, prompting visitors to methodically travel through the immersive installation. Conceptually responding to the passage of time, the piece will be in a constant state of transformation through slow, choreographed movements.

L’Eden by Perrier-Jouët For the duration of the festival, selected visitors will be invited to enter L’Eden by Perrier-Jouët, an enchanting immersive experience in the heart of Soho. Curated by a leading international designer to

When and where London, 17-25 September 2016 For a full list of events taking place during London Design Festival 2016, visit www.londondesignfestival.com

L_D_F #LDF16 *All information correct at time of going to press

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www.armourfx.com

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products

london design festival Surface Styling from IDS 100% Design Stand E370 Surface Styling by IDS offers a one stop shop of decorative surfacing materials for designers, specifiers and architects. Surface Styling will showcase innovations in laminates, solid surface, decorative panel, wall panelling, flooring and worktops. On show and exclusive is Fenix NTM, utilising nanotechnology to create an ultra matt, hardwearing and thermoformable surfacing solution. Hanex solid surface will preview 34 new colours in the 80-strong range offering a toolbox of creativity. T. +44 (0)845 603 7811 E. info@surfacestyling.co.uk www.surfacestyling.co.uk Twitter: SurfaceStyling

Cora Parquet - 100% Design Stand E389 Since 1919, Italian company CorĂ has been known worldwide for wood and wood-based products manufacture and trade. A family company totally devoted to wood, in the last 25 years the Parquet Division developed a wide offer of high quality flooring, from classic to design, with unique warm style. T. +39 0444.372711 E. info@coralegnami.it www.coraparquet.it

Industville - 100% Design stand L426 Industville is a rapidly expanding company specialising in the manufacture of unique industrial vintage reproduction lighting and furniture. Inspired by the industrial design of the early 20th century, Industville has designed its own range of original, handcrafted lighting and furniture suitable for a wide range of trade and domestic clients in the UK and worldwide. T. +44 (0)20 7971 7871 E. sales@industville.co.uk www.industville.co.uk Twitter: Industville

Armourcoat - Decorex International Stand H31 Decorative specialist Armourcoat will present a range of hand-applied polished plaster wall finishes and pre-cast bas relief panels at Decorex International in September. The stand will also showcase the latest additions to the Signature Collection. Devised by Armourocat founder Duncan MacKellar, this exclusive range of polished plaster wall finishes reflects his unique creativity and passion. Creating rich, opulent and luxurious interiors, these artisan finishes represent the highest level of product mastery, redefining the technique and underlining Armourcoat’s lead role in the industry. T. +44 (0)1732 460 668 E. sales@armourcoat.co.uk www.armourcoat.com Twitter: Armourcoat

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Flexible strip LEDs: made to measure

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products

LIGHTING MEGAMAN (UK) Consumer champion Which? has announced that the MEGAMAN 5W Filament Classic LED lamp has achieved Best Buy status and can carry the coveted ‘Which? Best Buy’ logo. Achieving a score of 81 per cent, following assessment of the lamp’s light quality, efficiency, brightness, consistency across samples and power equivalence, the MEGAMAN 5W Filament Classic LED lamp is the ideal choice for any decorative application. Available in E27 or B22 formats, the lamp has an operating life of 15,000 hours (at L70), a warm colour temperature (2,700k), excellent colour rendering (80CRI) and delivers light output of 470lm. T. +44 (0)1707 386 000 E. sales@megamanuk.com www.megamanuk.com Twitter: MegamanUKLtd

Bright Goods A new catalogue has been published by Bright Goods — the acclaimed brand of vintage-style, filament retrofit LED lamps. The catalogue features newly released lamps, beautiful LED installations and an enviable client list including Burger and Lobster, DF Mexico, Gourmet Burger Kitchen, Fresh Cosmetics, Fuller’s Pubs, Handmade Burger Company, Jamie’s Italian, Nando’s, Next and Pizza Express, to name a few. This is the second catalogue publication for Bright Goods since the brand launched at Retail Design Expo in 2015. T. +44 (0)1276 691 230 E: saima@ledecolights.com www.brightgoods.co.uk Twitter: Bright_Goods

Helvar Lighting control expert Helvar has launched iDim Orbit, a complete room lighting control solution in a single sensor. Using the latest technology, iDim Orbit offers features usually only found in more complex systems, whilst maintaining its simplicity and ease of use. iDim Orbit delivers simple, costeffective and easy to install room-based lighting control. iDim Orbit is a flexible solution comprising either one PIR sensor which provides 7m diameter coverage or five PIR sensors for up to 15m coverage at 2.8m height, to cater for a range of commercial and public building applications. T. +44 (0)1322 222 211 E. uksystemsales@helvar.com www.helvar.com Twitter: Helvar

Mushroom Lighting Miniature and highly efficient spots, pinspots, floods and Gobo projectors by Gantom are now available via Mushroom Lighting. Fully controllable using either PWM dimming or Audio DMX, these beautifully engineered and discreet fittings are ideal for retail display, events and product enhancement. Available as warm white or cool white with white balance blend, RGB and RGBW, the range is immensely powerful yet small enough to hide within fixtures without heat causing problems. All fittings run at 12V and can also be pre-programmed and can run off rechargeable battery packs. Uses include theatre, retail visual display, advertising, branding, marketing, themeing, temporary displays, etc. Please contact Mushroom Lighting for a demonstration. T. +44 (0)1604 790 900 E. paul@mushroomlighting.com www.mushroomlighting.com Twitter: mushroomlights

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products

FLOORING Karndean Designflooring The flagship charity store of Rainbows Hospice for Children and Young People in Loughborough has worked with Karndean Designflooring for a striking and engaging floor design. With its customer base at the heart of its concept, Rainbows and officeTwelve specified Karndean’s Van Gogh Wood and new Kaleidoscope at the 80 sq m flagship to fulfil its bright and modern interior design scheme. The completed store features the delicate oak grains and chalky cool washed finish of Van Gogh White Washed Oak throughout the clothing and homeware section, and Kaleidoscope Tripoint in a dedicated children’s area as a standalone rug effect. ‘We’re absolutely thrilled with the finished look, and having our Karndean floor to capture the imagination of our customers will certainly encourage them to browse for longer,’ says Kate Golding, head of organisational giving at Rainbows. ‘It was essential for us to stand out from our competitors, and at the same time create a wow environment for our first flagship space. Rather than adding lots of obvious bright colours, we looked to add geometric shapes with Kaleidoscope Tripoint and a contrasting statement orange wall for opulence and sophistication.’ Kaleidoscope by Karndean Designflooring is designed specifically to offer unparalleled flexibility for interior designers and flooring contractors looking to create a unique floor design. It features six designs as standard including Cubix, Pennon, Apex, Pyramid, Tripoint and Hexa. T. +44 (0)1386 820 104 E. commercial@karndean.co.uk www.karndean.com Twitter: KarndeanComm

Polyflor

Forbo Flooring Systems

Expona Commercial PUR luxury vinyl tiles from Polyflor were recently installed inside the visitor centre at the world’s first inland surfing lagoon, Surf Snowdonia Adventure Parc. Approximately 700 sq m of Expona Commercial luxury vinyl tile flooring in the Weathered Country Plank design was installed by Manchester-based contractors JDP Flooring in the Surf Side Café and shop inside the centre’s HUB Building. This rustic design features highlighted knots and emphasised grain detailing for an authentic timber effect.

Forbo’s design-led safety flooring products have contributed to the Japanese theme at the YO! Sushi restaurant in Leicester, whilst providing the all-important slip resistance required in a busy dining venue. Commissioned to transform the premises, Alison Cooper of InnSight Design specified Surestep Wood Safety Vinyl in Seagrass for its ‘bamboo-like’ appearance, and inlaid Allura Safety Luxury Vinyl Tiles in Natural Textile to brighten up the interior. The two contrasting HSE compliant slip resistant products have given depth to the floor scheme and created a walkway around the restaurant, echoing the Japanese style conveyor belt on the counter.

T. +44 (0)161 767 1111 E. info@polyflor.com www.polyflor.com Twitter: Polyflorltd

T. +44 (0)844 822 3928 E. info.flooring.uk@forbo.com www.forbo-flooring.co.uk/step Twitter: ForboFlooringUK

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LOOSE LAY VINYL FLOOR TILES

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products

flooring Interfloor Visitors to this year’s Flooring Show next month will be able to see Interfloor’s underlays sporting clean new looks and upgraded technical specifications, plus some new additions to the portfolio designed to support retailers by providing an exceptional one-stop-shop supplying everything needed for the installation of floor coverings from one professional supplier. Interfloor has refreshed its heritage underlay brand Duralay to position it as the contractors’ brand of choice and for more technical applications in the home such as under wood flooring and with underfloor heating. Visit the company in Hall B, Stand B16/31. T. +44 (0)1706 213 131 E: sales@interfloor.com www.interfloor.com Twitter: Interfloor1

Moduleo Luxury vinyl flooring manufacturer, Moduleo has unveiled its new range of Xtrafloor underlays to suit just about any environment. Xtrafloor Base, for residential use, Xtrafloor Silent, for excellent sound insulation, and Xtrafloor Flex Pro, an underlay with self-adhesive to ensure faster and easier installation, have been designed to offer a full-rounded solution. As a global top three manufacturer selling 100 million sq m of vinyl flooring every year since 1997, Moduleo has a strong heritage. The company handles every stage of the design and manufacture process from start to finish at its state-of-the-art, eco-friendly facility in Belgium. T. +44 (0)1332 851 500 E. salesuk@moduleo.com www.moduleo.co.uk Twitter: ModuleoUK

Kährs Kährs Oak Sparuto has been specified at Pho Grand Central, a new Vietnamese street food eatery at Birmingham Grand Central. Pho occupies a prime site within the new premier shopping destination, located above the city’s newly renovated New Street Station. Kährs design-treated wood floor complements Pho’s raw, urban design and eclectic mix of materials, from steel to bamboo. All flooring was installed by Blackpool-based shopfitters and building contractors, Thompsons. Part of Kährs Da Capo Collection, Oak Sparuto joins Kährs’ dark toned colour spectrum and features a tactile brushed and handscraped finish, which gives an aged, gnarly look. T. +44 (0)23 9245 3045 E: sales@kahrs.com www.kahrs.com Twitter: KahrsHardwood

Amtico Amtico has unveiled its new-look website, showcasing the latest additions to the Signature Collection, which includes innovation products Umbra and Chroma. The new website will act as an informative and inspirational hub for those seeking design-led and practical solutions for their flooring specification needs, with tools such as the enhanced Room Visualiser tool, which allows consumers and specifiers to preview designs in different settings online. The website revamp has refined the user experience, offering a cleaner, more concise platform from which to view Amtico’s multitude of product and designs. Optimised for use on mobile devices, the intuitive new site features online brochures, improved photography, videos and a regularly updated inspiration section. T. +44 (0)121 745 0800 E. info@amtico.com www.amtico.com Twitter: AmticoFlooring

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products

surfaces + finishes Armourcoat Armourcoat has announced the introduction of a refreshed company website and logo to coincide wiht the launch of a major new product for exterior wall applications. PPX (Polished Plaster eXternal) is a polymer-filled limestone render system suitable for new build and renovation projects, producing stunning honed and textured finishes for external spaces. The introduction of PPX represents entry into a significant new market for the company. Armourcoat also offers a complete PPX External Wall Insulation (EWI) system to provide outstanding thermal insulation tested to stringent ETAG standards. T. +44 (0)1732 460 668 E: sales@armourcoat.co.uk www.armourocoat.com Twitter: Armourcoat

Perspex Perspex Sweet Pastels is a newly developed cast acrylic sheet collection made up of eight vibrant pastel colours available now from Perspex Distribution. This selection of fresh colours are set to tempt designers and point of sale specialists by offering a pick ‘n’ mix of mouth-watering vibrant flavours from Lemon Bonbon to Parma Violet. Eight pastel shades are available in a standard 3m x 2m sheet size with 3mm thickness. An additional benefit of each sheet is that it offers the best of both worlds with a different finish on each side offering both matt and gloss surfaces all in one sheet. T. +44 (0)1254 874 000 E. info@perspex.com www.perspex.co.uk/sweetpastels Twitter: @LuciteIntl

Formica The Formica Door Collection brings an extensive selection of new patterns, tactile textures and colours to meet the design demands of retail environments. Introducing 27 new decors and 30 colours in Linewood surface finish, in addition to the existing 120 colours, 45 woods designs and 18 patterns, it brings the total collection to 186 decors. The inherent properties of Formica high pressure laminate means the Formica Door Collection is highly resistant to stains, impact and scratches and is maintainable, hygienic and FSC Certified. T. +44 (0)191 259 3512 E: samples.uk@formica.com www.formica.com Twitter: FormicaGroupEU

International Decorative Surfaces With 34 brand new decors, the premium Hanex solid surface range is a toolbox of creativity for design professionals. They can all be found at the newly updated Hanex website, www.hanex.co.uk. Mainlining the trends for comfortable neutrals in organic colours and stones, there are two brand new ranges of Nativo and Therapy together with a significant style update to the flagship collection, including the Bellassimo range. The highly creative Hanex portfolio now offers a total of 80 décors across the tonal spectrum in stones, pearlescents, translucents and plain colours offering design creativity for domestic, shopfitting, leisure, hospitality and commercial sectors. Hanex is exclusively distributed by International Decorative Surfaces nationwide. T. +44 (0)845 693 7811 E. info@hanex.co.uk www.hanex.co.uk Twitter: idsurfaces

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products

SELECTION Futura Retail Solutions T J Hughes has replaced its legacy retail systems with the Futura EPOS and retail management solution to modernise systems and optimise performance as the group expands. Futura has been deployed in store across some 190 tills and with 25 users at head office to provide a robust and modern retail environment, capable of supporting the company’s omni-channel business model. With some 35,000 SKUs, Futura software is also managing stock for T J Hughes online and providing the integration to the company’s existing e-commerce provider and to the Peoplevox warehouse platform. T. +44 (0)1189 841 925 E. sales@futurauk.com www.futura4retail.co.uk Twitter: Futura_retail

4D Projects 4D Projects is a creative agency specialising in display, visual merchandising, exhibition design and brand spaces. The company works in retail and the fine-art and luxury sectors creating displays to show off your product to its best. The team’s design solutions work to enhance your brand personality, from the up-cycled chic of The Natural Shoe Store to the sophisticated narrative of De Beers Jewellery. 4D Projects’ large mews buildings in the heart of Central London enable the company to manufacture in-house to ensure its clients not only get brilliant creative solutions, but with the assurance that they can be manufactured, delivered and installed seamlessly under one roof. T. +44 (0)20 3601 1180 E: studio@4dprojects.com www.4dprojects.com Twitter: 4DProjects

Andy Thornton Andy Thornton offers a comprehensive range of garment racks and display stands as part of its popular Urban Vintage range of visual merchandising and retail display products. Perfect for fashion stores and with many uses in their retail applications, the range includes single and double garment rails, some with height adjustable lower rails in a variety of finishes. The range also includes unusual shoe display stands, jewellery and handbag stands and even changing room bench display units inspired by school furniture of a bygone era. For the full range of visual merchandising products from Andy Thornton, visit the company’s website. T. +44 (0)1422 376 000 E. sales@andythornton.com www.andythornton.com Twitter: andythorntonltd

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Junckers Nordic Light Ash Wide Board from Junckers marries two contemporary decorating themes — a pale finish and the highly architectural look of wide board timber flooring. Light Ash is a beautiful timber with very characteristic graining and colouring and Junckers’ Nordic treatment gives it more interest, illuminating the characteristics to create a floor that is perfect for clean, modern interiors and with much sought after light reflective quality. Finished with Junckers Ultra Matt lacquer for a hardwearing, durable finish, Nordic Light Ash comes in 129mm-wide boards, which are 20.5mm thick. T. +44 (0)1376 534 700 E. brochures@junckers.co.uk www.junckers.co.uk Twitter: junckersfloors


TM

The World’s 1st Combined Bluetooth Printer and Cash Drawer Star is known worldwide as the most dominant printer manufacturer for mPOS with connectivity at all levels, so it is only natural for Star to create the world’s 1st Bluetooth all-in-one mPOS printer and cash drawer. mPOP delivers outstanding connectivity and design, plus intuitive functionality and simple integration with your chosen mobile, software and card payment system. Welcome to a new era for mPOS. Welcome to mPOP.

Stylish, functional cash drawer Reliable 100mm/second print speed Classic Bluetooth Connectivity Compact, mobile POS design Effective cable management with one power source for mPOP and two mobile devices

NEW

Tablet and phone not included

Use with YOUR choice of mobile device

Device stand

Plug and play Star scanner

Star Micronics EMEA, Star House, Peregrine Business Park, Gomm Road, High Wycombe, Bucks. HP13 7DL, UK Tel: +44 (0) 1494 471111 • Fax: +44 (0) 1494 473333 • Email: Sales@Star-EMEA.com • www.Star-EMEA.com


technology

focus on: TECHNOLOGY Getting personal Omnichannel specialist One iota offers many services, including clienteling, which is a method used by sales associates to help build and maintain long-term relationships with key customers, using data about their preferences, shopping behaviours and previous purchases. By utilising functionality within an in-store app, store associates are able to view a customer’s previous buying behaviour to create a more personalised and informed shopping experience. The in-store app becomes a tool to support and enhance relationshipbuilding activities between store associates and customers, going beyond traditional CRM systems by incorporating face-to-face interaction. With a deeper understanding of the customer’s buying behaviours and past purchases, store assistants can advise and recommend items perfectly tailored to the customer, offering the opportunity to upsell to an already captive audience.

There’s no shying away from the impact of technology on our daily lives, and the retail sector is no exception. From LED displays and queue systems to touch display tables and virtual reality, various technologies are being integrated within the store design to enrich the shopping experience and blur the lines between online and bricks and mortar.

www.itsoneiota.com Image credit: We Love This Ltd

On display PSCo is the exclusive distributor for Absen’s new N Series Narrow Pixel Pitch LED range, which introduces no bezels, high brightness and is sizeable to any size or shape. The display removes some of the restrictions around how the content is showcased, providing a seamless display that will not be interrupted by bezels, giving your customer a stunning image without disruption. The high contrast and colour reproduction ensures content is accurately displayed across the display. The product is front install and front service, therefore no rear access is needed at any stage of the product lifecycle. The display is also very slim, allowing retailers to make the most out of premium store space.

www.psco.co.uk

At your finger tips Fashion brand Esprit is utilising the benefits of Foko’s app for retailers, which allows the brand to distribute merchandising guidelines to the store level faster and give feedback on displays in real time. Foko allows them to be more responsive to the merchandising needs of individual store locations. Esprit uses Foko to share photos of merchandising displays, identify problem areas and collaborate on new ideas. The team uses it to facilitate its monthly store changeovers, from sending directives and assigning tasks, to capturing photos and discussing what’s working and what isn’t. It saves lots of time compared to the company’s old process, and has quickly become an essential tool of its operations strategy.

www.foko.co

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technology Fully immersed Havana Club Rum has launched a new virtual reality pop-up experience in Soho, built on the foundation of Havana’s cultural pillars, food, music, colour and drink. The pop-up space brings Cuba’s colourful capital to life for Londoners, and includes a lively bar, ticketed restaurant space and artwork all curated and inspired by Havana. The brand appointed creative agency Found Studio to create an intruiging virtual reality experience in a secret space within ‘Casa Havana’, allowing visitors to experience Havana life through past years and into the present day. The experience uses true VR combining real time 3D animation and storytelling using Oculus’ most up to date headset.

www.found-studio.com

Stay in line Matalan has adopted Tensator’s Electronic Call Forward Systems, to improve the queuing experience in its stores. Using Tensator’s Electronic Call Forward Systems, Matalan has moved away from traditional multi-line queues at each till, and uses a single-line queuing format, which provides a designated space within the store for customers to queue. A single-line queue manages customers in the fairest and fastest way, by serving them in the order they arrive. This approach has allowed Matalan to improve service productivity, eliminate queue range, which can appear when customers believe they have chosen the ‘wrong’ queue, and reduce the possibility that shoppers will abandon the shop before completing a purchase.

www.tensatorgroup.com

Perfect fit German company mifitto is aiming to improve the shoe shopping experience with its 3D foot scanner. The concept, combined with an interactive touchscreen from Elo Touch Solutions, has already been used by German sporting goods store Fraunhofer Society. With the 3D foot scanner, retail shops have a technology available that supports sales with benefits that are obvious to customers: the system searches for shoes that fit the feet — and not vice versa. First the feet are measured then mifitto searches for suitable suggestions. mifitto selected the Elo 3201L touchscreen, which is availavle with IntelliTouch Pro projected capacitive (PCAP) or IntelliTouch Plus surface acoustic wave touch technologies.

www.elotouch.com

The slightest touch The 65in UHD InGlass touch display from NEC is designed for touch tables and provides an effortless and natural user experience by delivering state of the art, true multi-touch performance for multiple simultaneous users. The InGlass touch technology creates a completely bezel-free and parallax-free touch surface that is easy to clean and forms the interface to the pixel-free Ultra High Definition visual display. Optional compatible table legs complete the tablet-like touch table experience. With a rugged IP-rated design and 24/7 operation, making it ideal for leisure areas, showrooms, retail spaces and creative multimedia, the interactive touch table display will entice your audience to engage, browse and share.

www.nec-display-solutions.com

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Directory

Retail Supplier Directory, find the specialist retail products and services you are looking for from leading suppliers around the world. Retail Supplier Directory Visit the Retail Focus online directory at www.retail-focus.co.uk to discover a comprehensive list of the UK’s leading retail suppliers. Each listing contains indepth company information together with inspirational images, video footage and informative press material. You can also link through to company websites and connect with suppliers through Twitter and Facebook. The Retail Supplier Directory is divided into a number of categories, such as design agencies, point-of-purchase, lighting, props and surfaces, to make the site easy to navigate. To feature in the online directory, contact Terry Clark on 0845 6807405 or email terry@retailfocus.co

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Directory

Aluminium Fittings

Specialist Stockist of Aluminium Extrusions and Mild Steel Fittings for the shopfitting industry. Extensive stock held of: *Slotted uprights *Aluminium slatwall *Perimeter Sections *Corner sections *Design and bespoke service. T: 01273 582241 E: info@d-i-a.net W: www.d-i-a.net S. www.twitter.com/DesignsinAlumin

Bespoke Display

Bespoke Display

Design Consultancies

Axis design, develop, manufacture and install bespoke retail display solutions. We’ve worked with the biggest names on the high street, but approach every project in the same way, with the maximum thought for your brand, products and sales environment.

Spur Creative Workshop deliver unique visual merchandising solutions for retail brands. Boasting a wealth of experience in high quality prop making we create display concepts for window staging, POS and brand awareness campaigns.

We are a global retail agency. Visual Thinking develops strategy, skills, hearts and minds to deliver retail excellence and transform brand performance.

T, 020 3260 3888 E. info@axiseurope.com W.www.axiseurope.com/retail S. www.twitter.com/AxisEuropePlc

T 01892 890608 E: phil@spurcreative.co.uk W www.spurcreative.co.uk S: www.twitter.com/ spur_creative

T, +44 (0) 1788 543 331 E. mail@visualthinking.co.uk W. www.visualthinking.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/shoptactics

Design Consultancies

Aluminium Fittings

Bespoke Display

MicroSlat is a strong versatile 25mm fine pitched aluminium slatwall system. With a bespoke range of components it can be used to build unique and interesting displays or add value to existing designs.

Original suppliers of display fabrics, textiles, PVC and polycarbonates for retail displays and exhibition stands since 1934 Backgrounds have been our background since backgrounds began and B Brown have more than 400 in stock.

Walker Bros (Elland) Ltd is an Engineering Manufacturing company specialising in sheet metalwork and plastic fabrication. We supply precision metal and plastic products, components and light fabrications to a broad range of industries and markets throughout the UK and Europe.

IGNITION is an independent creative company Our multi-disciplined team work together to deliver exceptional retail and commercial environments, global exhibitions and brands.

T. 01325 351 276 E. sales@microslat.com W. www.microslat.com S. www.twitter.com/MicroSlat

T, 08705 340 340 E. customerservices@bbrown.co.uk W. www.bbrown.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/luvbbrown

T: 0 01422 310767 E: sales@wbelland.com W: www.wbelland.com

T, +44 (0) 1179 725168 E. victoria@ignitiondg.com W. www.ignitiondg.com

Audio Visual Integration

Anna Valley looks to help guide clients with their audio visual decision making by offering high end impartial advice and help manoeuvre them through the current “minefield” of different technology and services available to them. This process then enables them to have a clear vision of what they are actually striving to achieve within the budget available to them and then provides a full range of services in the delivery of that vision.

Bespoke Display

Hello Flamingo is a creative company for the retail and event sector, specialising in window displays, in store solution, POP ups, project management, design, manufacture and installation for bespoke projects at our fully equipped manufacturing workshop.

Bespoke Display

Brochure Holders

Design Consultancies

Brochure Holders International Limited is part of the global Taymar group recognised as a leading manufacturer of premium quality injection moulded leaflet holders and display solutions. Committed to on-going product development the Taymar group offers one of the world’s largest collections of ‘clear view’ wall, floor and counter standing brochure displays.

We are TWO Visual, the retail agency specialising in visual merchandising. Led by brand directors Jeanette Cheetham and Brendan Gordon we provide everything retailers need to make their brands visually dynamic, whilst improving team and commercial performance.

T: +44 (0)1473 229250 E: sales@brochureholders.co.uk W: www.brochureholders.com

T, +44 (0) 1858 414275 E. hello@twovisual.co.uk W. www. twovisual.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/TWO_Visual

T: +44 (0)208 941 1000 E: nick.shaw@annavalley.co.uk W: www.annavalley.co.uk/avintegration

T: 01273 585768 E: info@helloflamingo.co.uk W: www.helloflamingo.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/helloflamingo1

Balloons & Bunting

Bespoke Display

Climate Control

Display

No.1 Advertising Balloon Service: • Printed Latex and Foil Balloons • Helium Gas delivery and collection • Flags, Bunting and Banners • Promotional Sashes and T-shirts • Multi-store distribution nationwide

KSF provides retail merchandising display solutions to retailers, brands and trade customers from CONCEPT to COMPLETION via our global supply chain (China/UK/East EU) to deliver LOWER total cost of ownership. YOU’VE TRIED THE REST; NOW PUT US TO THE TEST.

Air Control & Development Ltd are Daikin, Mitsubishi and Toshiba accredited contractors, specialising in providing quality air conditioning, ventilation and overdoor heater installations, service & maintenance within the retail sector.

arken are a UK design and manufacturing facility creating bespoke poster display solutions. As well as our bespoke offer, we provide off the shelf products such as poster frames, light boxes, poster hanging systems, pavement signs, forecourt signs, all available in a range of colours and sizes.

T, 01494 774376 E. sales@b-loony.com W. www.b-loony.com

T: +44 (0)8450 944 699 E: ben.wang@ksf-global.com W: www.ksf-global.com S: www.twitter.com/KSFGlobal

T 01922 455523 E: info@aircontrol.co.uk W: www.aircontrol.co.uk S: www.twitter.com/AirControl123

T: +44 (0)1638 565656 E: info@arken-pop.com W: www.arken-pop.com

63


Directory

Display

Are you looking to increase your product sales, re-brand or launch a new product? If you’re not already talking to us, you should. Our group offer an unprecedented level of experience coupled with a comprehensive range of products and services. Our aim is to make your products sell and your service the best on the market.

T: +44(0)113 265 0093 E: sales@concept-data.com W: www.concept-data.com S. www.twitter.com/GDProjects

Display

Internationally acclaimed, award winning unique magnetic wall system offers instant flexibility & creative choice to architects, interiors & store designers. Since launching the magnIQ system in 2006 the response has been quite phenomenal. To date the system has won 13 prestigious awards and is now internationally recognised justifying the many years Rare Basic spent on research and development. T +44 (0)20 8348 9888 E: mail@rarebasic.com W: www.rarebasic.com S: www.twitter.com/rarebasic

Display - Digital

Furniture

Crystal Display Systems is already a leading UK designer, distributor and value added reseller of flat panel display solutions. We have a vast array of media players, interactive displays, videowalls and shelf edge displays. Our knowledge and expertise has also led to us being one of the European leaders in transparent LCD.

Spur Creative Workshop deliver unique visual merchandising solutions for retail brands. Boasting a wealth of experience in high quality prop making we create display concepts for window staging, POS and brand awareness campaigns.

T: +44 (0) 1634 292 025 E: info@crystal-display.com W: www.crystal-display.com S. www.twitter.com/CrystalDisplays

T 01892 890608 E: phil@spurcreative.co.uk W www.spurcreative.co.uk S: www.twitter.com/ spur_creative

Furniture

Display

Display

Display - Digital

GDP display, manufactures, delivers and installs world-class retail environments, store fixtures, displays and visual merchandising equipment. GDP is truly Global, through its activities in many parts of the world. We have supplied high-end displays and furniture to successful retail brands throughout Europe, North America, South Africa and South East Asia.

Spur Creative Workshop deliver unique visual merchandising solutions for retail brands. Boasting a wealth of experience in high quality prop making we create display concepts for window staging, POS and brand awareness campaigns.

We provide total end to end solutions encompassing all aspects of designing, implementing, managing and supporting multi-faceted marketing technology concepts and Digital Screen Media networks.

We create bespoke tailored solutions for retail, interiors, exhibitions, museums and 3D and we know one size does not fit all. Our teams are always ready for the challenges, big or small.

T: +44 (0)1582 433 771 E: info@gdprojects.eu W: www.gdprojects.eu S. www.twitter.com/GDProjects

T 01892 890608 E: phil@spurcreative.co.uk W www.spurcreative.co.uk S: www.twitter.com/ spur_creative

T, +44 (0)845 481 8020 E. info@screenmediatechnology.com W.screenmediatechnology.com S. www.twitter.com/ScreenMediaTech

T: 01923 800666 E: info@stylographics.co.uk W: www.stylographics.com S. www.twitter.com/hellostylo

Display

Display

We are ICON. We create and deliver engaging brand and live experiences, particularly in the retail sector.

We create bespoke tailored solutions for retail, interiors, exhibitions, museums and 3D and we know one size does not fit all. Our teams are always ready for the challenges, big or small.

T: +44 (0) 20 7593 5200 E: enquiries@icon-world.com W: www.icon-world.com S: www.twitter.com/ICON_HQ

T: 01923 800666 E: info@stylographics.co.uk W: www.stylographics.com S. www.twitter.com/hellostylo

EPOS

Offering an extensive range of EPOS hardware from world class suppliers such as Star Micronics, Honeywell and Posiflex, DED offer the complete EPOS hardware solution alongside a unique rewritable loyalty system.

T: 01797 320636 E: sales@ded.co.uk W: www.ded.co.uk S: www.twitter.com/dedltd

Finishes

Display

Display

Impulse POP specialises in Point of Purchase display systems for the Retail sector. We offer many years of experience in all aspects of retail design, with in house manufacture - including quick turnaround prototypes, or overseas manufacture, delivery, installation and retail merchandising.

Woodwood Group –Tx Frame UK are a specialist in tension fabric display systems and LED light boxes. We are able to deliver the highest quality service with a friendly but professional approach to ensure you receive the spectacular results you deserve.

Armourcoat is the world’s foremost supplier of polished plasters, sculptural effects and innovative surface finishes.

T, 01767 682756 E. sales@impulsepop.co.uk W.www.impulsepop.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/impulsepop

T, 01376 295 016 E. sales@txframe.co.uk W. www.txframe.co.uk

T. +44 (0)1732 460 668 E. sales@armourcoat.co.uk W. www.armourcoat.com S. www.twitter.com/Armourcoat

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Graphics

Graphica Display print, produce and install retail graphics including till point graphics, window graphics, LED lightboxes, cut & printed vinyl and much more. Nationwide & Euorpean delivery and installation.

T: 0845 3730073 E: info@graphicadisplay.co.uk W:www.graphicadisplay.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/graphicatweet

Graphics

We create bespoke tailored solutions for retail, interiors, exhibitions, museums and 3D and we know one size does not fit all. Our teams are always ready for the challenges, big or small.

T: 01923 800666 E: info@stylographics.co.uk W: www.stylographics.com S. www.twitter.com/hellostylo


Directory

POP/POS

Interactive Displays

Permanent POS

Crystal Display Systems is already a leading UK designer, distributor and value added reseller of flat panel display solutions. We have a vast array of media players, interactive displays, videowalls and shelf edge displays. Our knowledge and expertise has also led to us being one of the European leaders in transparent LCD.

> In house design and manufacture of permanent displays > Powder coated steel, stainless steel, plastics and print used in any combination > Rapid prototyping and batch manufacture > Confidentiality assured > Let us help you improve your product sales` Find out why our customers keep returning for more………

We are IPOS. A creative design agency whose extensive and impressive client list speaks volumes for the professional services we offer. We design, produce and install all aspects of our client’s POS. From instore graphics, window vinyls and 3D bespoke window displays to full multi location campaign roll outs.

T: 01482 345067 E: sales@jcrpos.co.uk W: www.jcrpos.co.uk S. @JCR_POS

T: 0161 477 8501 E: info@ipos-design.co.uk W: www.ipos-design.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/iposdesign

T: +44 (0) 1634 292 025 E: info@crystal-display.com W: www.crystal-display.com S. www.twitter.com/CrystalDisplays

Lighting

POP/POS

LED Solutions are a specialist LED lighting supplier who can offer you a wide variety of bespoke lighting solutions for the sign, shop fitting and display industries.

Custom made, 20mm deep LED Edge lit ‘Diamond’ light boxes, and 8mm deep ‘Garnet’ light panels for retail display, signage and advertising.

T: 0116 262 5933 E: sales@ledsolutions.co.uk W: www.ledsolutions.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/ LEDSolutionsUK

Literature Display Solutions

T: 0333 123 0345 E: Sales@ways2display.com W www.artillus.com Web: www.ways2display.com

POP/POS

POP UP

Hello Flamingo is a creative company for the retail and event sector, specialising in window displays, in store solution, POP ups, project management, design, manufacture and installation for bespoke projects at our fully equipped manufacturing workshop.

T: 01273 585768 E: info@helloflamingo.co.uk W: www.helloflamingo.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/helloflamingo1

Retail Consultancy

Slatwall

MicroSlat is a strong versatile 25mm fine pitched aluminium slatwall system. With a bespoke range of components it can be used to build unique and interesting displays or add value to existing designs.

T. 01325 351 276 E. sales@microslat.com W. www.microslat.com S. www.twitter.com/MicroSlat

VM

GENESIS MANNEQUINS design and produce high-class and trend-lead shop window mannequins, busts and displays for the international fashion industry. Additionally we offer style, trend and product consultation as well as a comprehensive after-sales service.

T: +49 (0) 5752 1803 0 E: info@genesis-display.com W: www.genesis-display.com S: www.twitter.com/GenesisDisplay

VM

Panache revised logo 1

DISPLAY

Brochure Holders International Limited is part of the global Taymar group recognised as a leading manufacturer of premium quality injection moulded leaflet holders and display solutions. Committed to on-going product development the Taymar group offers one of the world’s largest collections of ‘clear view’ wall, floor and counter standing brochure displays. T: +44 (0)1473 229250 E: sales@brochureholders.co.uk W: www.brochureholders.com

We specialise in Point of Sale (POS) and Point of Purchase (POP). We design, manufacture and fit retail fixtures and store displays and we’re good at it. For over 55 years Axiom has been designing and producing exciting and innovative retail displays for well known brands and retail groups. T: +44 (0)161 681 1371 E: info@axiom-displays.co.uk W: www.axiom-displays.co.uk

DISPLAY

We are a global retail agency. Visual Thinking develops strategy, skills, hearts and minds to deliver retail excellence and transform brand performance.

Since the ‘glam’ days of the 1970s, Panache Display has been a lead player in the global fashion business producing ever-changing looks to set its own trends in mannequin design and visual display - while establishing an enviable reputation for quality, as well as, creativity.

T, +44 (0) 1788 543 331 E. mail@visualthinking.co.uk W. www.visualthinking.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/shoptactics

T: +44 (0) 20 8752 2520 E: info@panachedispay.co.uk W: www.panachedisplay.co.uk S: www.twitter.com/PANACHEDISPLAY

Maintenance

POP/POS

Slatwall

Air Control & Development Ltd are Daikin, Mitsubishi and Toshiba accredited contractors, specialising in providing quality air conditioning, ventilation and overdoor heater installations, service & maintenance within the retail sector.

We are ICON. We create and deliver engaging brand and live experiences, particularly in the retail sector.

Specialist Stockist of Aluminium Extrusions and Mild Steel Fittings for the shopfitting industry.

T 01922 455523 E: info@aircontrol.co.uk W: www.aircontrol.co.uk S: www.twitter.com/AirControl123

T: +44 (0) 20 7593 5200 E: enquiries@icon-world.com W: www.icon-world.com S: www.twitter.com/ICON_HQ

T: 01273 582241 E: info@d-i-a.net W: www.d-i-a.net S. www.twitter.com/DesignsinAlumin

Extensive stock held of: *Slotted uprights *Aluminium slatwall *Perimeter Sections *Corner sections *Design and bespoke service.

VM - Training & Tools

We are a global retail agency. Visual Thinking develops strategy, skills, hearts and minds to deliver retail excellence and transform brand performance.

T, +44 (0) 1788 543 331 E. mail@visualthinking.co.uk W. www.visualthinking.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/shoptactics

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Q&A

Peter Ruis joined British fashion brand Jigsaw in 2013 following nine years at John Lewis. Here, the CEO talks Brexit, expansion plans and why every Jigsaw store has to be different. RF. What drew you to Jigsaw? PR. You get very few opportunities as a retailer to run a great brand that means something personally. Jigsaw was a high water mark in the high street, it changed the course of fashion retail. RF. What does the brand stand for? PR. Style and truth. We are all about ‘slow fashion’, those stylish statements that last; we don’t care what others are doing, or what’s on the catwalk. The truth factor is all about being a small artisan brand that creates everything in-house, only working with the best fabrics, the unique collaborators, the highest quality partners.

RF. The men’s clothing market is enjoying strong growth. Do you have plans to open more standalone menswear stores? PR. We do. We plan to open in Muswell Hill in October, with more to come over the next three years. RF. What are your thoughts on Brexit?

RF. It’s two years since you opened the doors to the Duke Street Emporium. What’s so special about this store? PR. The Emporium creates a unique atmosphere in the West End. Somewhere to meet, to linger, to enjoy an exhibition, buy some tapas… or buy a frock. RF. You teamed up with Dalziel & Pow on the design of the store, and more recently you worked with Checkland Kindleysides on the first mall-based Jigsaw store, in Westfield London. Why is it important for the brand to collaborate with outside design firms? PR. We always collaborate with interesting creatives. The history of Jigsaw was about inviting ‘one of a kind’ individuals to develop the brand. Nigel Coats and John Pawson did many of the stores in the early days, and Juergen Teller created all the imagery before he was famous. Every one of our stores has to be different, so outside design firms help us realise that vision. We are not a ‘corporate roll out’ business.

PR. It will bring challenges. The currency dip is not helpful for a fashion brand very dependent on exports, and we will see how consumer demand reacts. However, there will be opportunities and we think we are well placed to adapt. We hope that whatever comes next still champions free European trade and free movement. RF. What are your priorities over the next few years? PR. Where do I start? We want to build the brand exponentially, and will open more stores in the UK. We plan to be part of London Fashion Week in September. We are opening more stores and concessions internationally across four continents. Our ranges continue to develop and stretch the brand, we are working with some very interesting people so there will be stand out new launches. Menswear, Junior and Accessories will grow. That’s probably enough for now!

RF. How involved do you get in the creative side of the business? PR. Very. I tend to get involved on the product with the designers, trying to set the tone at the beginning and end. I work on the store design, and all the marketing with our brand teams. It helps keep creativity at the core of all our strategy, and I’m better at it than IT or distribution! RF. How have customer expectations changed in recent years? PR. In general, they expect more choice, more original and unique design, and constant newness. They are demanding on expectations of value, and ecommerce has driven the ability to have what you want, when you want it. All of this is good for us, it’s how we stand out. Being generic is not the Jigsaw way.

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Duke Street Emporium



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