Is Less, More? Update on the Red-Dirt low-mod Cruiser

It’s been a couple of editions now since we ‘came out’ about our minimalist modification orientation on fitting out our new-to-us LandCruiser. Hard borders erratically popping up and down has kept us close to home, but we managed to get away for a quick trial run. It was an opportunity to test out our (lack of) modifications to see if there was anything that we really couldn’t live without, before a bigger trip planned for later this year. So...

By Amanda Burton Images by Red Dirt Australia www.red-dirt.net.au

Gets us places we'd rather be.

Ellendale pool camping.

The first time you pack for a trip with a new set-up is always a bit daunting. Over time you develop almost a muscle memory of where everything lives (and for me that is also a safety net that if there’s an empty space, it means I’ve forgotten to pack something). Straight off for me, the interior layout of the new National Luna fridge was very different to the old Engel and the collection of containers that I’d acquired over the years to ensure that every square centimetre of space was best utilised no longer did the trick. It pays to have friends who’ve been there and done that so you can learn from their experience. Nick and Susie have used a National Luna for years and thankfully Susie had shown me how to arrange things to fit the bottle of bubbles in, so with that most important item packed everything else was jumbled in around it for now and we were off. Fine tuning of containers and placement will be a work in progress. We headed northwards up the bitumen towards Ellendale Pool, just south-east of Geraldton. I will try to contain my zeal as a newly converted diesel vehicle owner, but OMG the pulling power! The old petrol Cruiser was no wall flower when it came to lifting up her skirts and surging forwards when asked, but you certainly knew all about it (admittedly that may have had a little bit to do with the throaty aftermarket exhaust system I’d had fitted on her - if you’re going to shell out on petrol for a V8 you may as well enjoy the full audio experience, hey?) The new Cruiser with her diesel V8 seemed to feel no need to advertise, she just quietly pulled away, effortlessly towing Lucy the Glamper-Camper along behind her. I have a new appreciation for whoever said,

“I’ve never met a newtonmetre of torque I haven’t liked,” and the new Cruiser seems to have them all in the right rev range to make towing a breeze. If you haven’t already discovered it, Ellendale Pool just south of Geraldton is well worth the detour off the highway for an overnighter. The pool at the base of a cliff is reminiscent of a junior Carawine Gorge and it is beautiful to watch the colours change on the cliff wall as the sun sets. There’s easy formed gravel access and a reasonable amount of space to camp within the bollards on compacted gravel (as well as some grassed areas outside the bollards that would suit a tent). For $5 per vehicle per night you get three flushing toilets, rubbish bins, nondrinkable water and a couple of gas BBQs/ picnic tables. The pool is swimmable “at your own risk” as amoebic meningitis is a problem in warmer weather (when water temperature exceeds 24°C). The plan from here was to head into the Murchison to baptize the new Cruiser with some red dust, looping up to do the Butchers Track. The Weather Gods however had other ideas. The further inland we headed the more ominously the black rain clouds gathered. Experience has taught us that rain and travelling on Murchison Shire roads are mutually exclusive activities. The first drop of rain brings out the road closed signs and they seem to stay up until things are dusty-dry again. Discretion being the better part of valour we veered back towards the coast. It proved a wise decision as the rain began to fall. We finished the day setting up a wet camp at Galena Bridge, a mere 150km further north than we’d been that morning, but at least knowing that the road out would be open next day.

Next on the agenda was Ningaloo Station, but given our preference to avoid night driving (and yes, no bull bar and spotties this time, so no layers of protection to risk night driving) we weren’t going to make it in one relaxed run. Instead we decided to stop in at one of the Ningaloo Coast stations that we hadn’t visited before – Warroora. The main

Murchison roads and storm clouds don't mix. Ellendale Pool is like a mini-Carawine Gorge.

entrance was closed off with directions to access via 14 Mile - “Under good road conditions (read not wet) this track is 2WD accessible”. After the rain we found it with multiple murky puddles stretching across the width of the track, potentially hiding all manner of potholes and wheel ruts. There was no going around them so we got our feet wet, in the end encountering nothing to challenge our lack of lift or snorkel. Passing the entry sign to 14 Mile, the 4WD beach camps sounded attractive. When we arrived though the reality wasn’t quite what we’d anticipated. I acknowledge that it was afternoon (never the most flattering time for a camp on the west coast with our afternoon sea breezes) and I know that seaweed comes and goes on the nicest of beaches but even with that, as far as actual campsites go I’ve seen more space in a can of sardines. We managed to convince the caretaker that rather than jimmying ourselves in we really would be much happier back up the track in that lonely little turning bay we’d passed earlier. Next morning saw us beating a speedy retreat back to the highway. It was only a short hop up to Ningaloo Station, though it is quite a drive across the station out to the coast on an everdeteriorating track (irks me when they mark a track ‘4WD only’ seemingly as an excuse not to have to maintain it). It is however well worth the effort and we arrived, shaken by the corrugations but having encountered nothing that challenged our lack of

Wet entry to 14 Mile Warroora Station. Camping like sardines at Warroora Station.

upgraded suspension, at our campsite right on the beach. Though you could see your neighbours, there was at least enough room to swing a cat or two between us. Leaving Lucy unhitched at camp we took to the beach and sandtracks over the next few days to explore and test out our capabilities in the soft stuff. The benefits of being so much leaner, minus all those heavy bars, winch, carriers, long range tank, steel drawer systems etc. etc. soon became evident. She just strolled along, skimming (well, skimming as much as a nearly three tonne vehicle can) over the soft sand and trundling up the sand hill tracks with no fuss. A definite plus for the 'low mod / light weight' argument. There’s plenty of space to play at Ningaloo with numerous bays to explore as well as the old whaling station ruins. Of course the snorkelling and fishing are the big drawcards, but some variety adds spice to life. Having had more than enough of the NW Coastal Highway, on leaving Ningaloo we looped up to Towera Road and on to the gravel meandering down towards the Yannarie River where we set up camp near Chearie Pool for the night. Whilst the sun shone we had plenty of company, of the pesky winged variety. Nothing that a pair of FOF fly nets couldn’t handle though (FOF - acronym for F*ck-Off-Flies – seriously! Picked them up in Kalgoorlie years ago and then struggled to provide a G-rated explanation to the kids of what the name stood for). It was otherwise peaceful, there being no neighbours of the two-legged kind, and a nice little scramble over the marble-like rocks with picturesque views down the river to wind up the day. Entering into the Shire of Upper Gascoyne the next morning we began to again see evidence of the recent rain, and just after

Magic campsite at Ningaloo Station.

Flies are bad, mozzies are worse.

Marble-like rock walk near Chearie Pool.

lunch came across a water crossing that had us unlacing our boots and heading in for a walk before we committed. At a solid based 0.4m it ended up being easily doable, no snorkel required. Talk with people about modifications and it’s a close race as to whether it’s a snorkel or a bull bar that is ‘the most absolutely essential’ modification that you need to do. Everyone seems to have a horror story about ramming into a seventeen-foot-high bull in the dark on the highway or drowning a vehicle crossing raging torrents of flooding rivers. I’m sure these things do happen (well, maybe the seventeen-foot-high bull story might have suffered a touch of fishing-tale-type exaggeration) but there is always a choice. At this stage we’re still sticking with neither modification and making informed choices about where and when we go to reduce the risks. After overnighting at a little pool off the track we headed towards Mt Augustus, stopping at Cattle Pool for a late breakfast – it is indeed a beautiful spot. Not feeling overly energetic we opted to drive the loop road around the big rock rather than attempting the climb this visit. We did manage a stroll along the rocky creek bed out to Flintstone Rock to take peek at the Aboriginal art there. I admit to not being much of an Aboriginal art connoisseur but the walk itself was pretty enough to make it worthwhile.

Off to wade the crossing.

Bilung Pool campsite view.

We broke the trip home up with a stop at Bilung Pool. Tracks in the sand at the bottom suggest that there is still some sort of access to get down there, but we found a pleasant enough spot up top, tucked into the branches of the gum trees and looking down into the pool. So all in all the new low-mod Cruiser’s first foray out into the sand, gravel and water was a resounding success. She pulls

like a train, floats over sand and wades through enough water that we got where we wanted to go. Fuel economy was much better (not that that’s actually much of an achievement, given the old petrol Cruiser drank like a thirsty sailor). The plastic drawer 'system' worked a treat and out it came when we got home to leave room in the rear for around-town jobs. Fine tuning the packing will be a work in progress. Verdict is that she has well and truly proven herself in the beginner’s division and we’re confident to now point her towards something a bit more challenging. The next trip is planned to be much further afield (might even risk crossing a border or two). Given the recent weather up north we’re expecting that there will be a bit of water around and likely some damaged tracks to negotiate. Range might require carrying a few jerrycans of fuel (no long-range tanks) and I expect the Maxtrax will have Q opportunity to earn their keep at some stage. Stay tuned. GENUINE OUTBACKHOSPITALITY YOU DESERVE IT

Plan a stay at the grand old Queen of the Murchison Guest House & Address: 53 Austin St, Cue 6640 Tel: (08) 9963 162 Cafe, and soak in the history of Cue. Admire the preserved buildings, E: info@queenofthemurchison.com.au Web: www.queenofthemurchison.com.au fossick for gold, photograph amazing sunsets. 53 Austin St, Cue 6640 Tel: (08) 9963 162 info@queenofthemurchison.com.au www.queenofthemurchison.com.au