Industry
Internship Arpana, H.P.
NehaNeha Mann | F&LA 7 Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
Copyright @2014 student document publication, meant for private circulation only. All rights reserved. NIFT All rights reserved. Arpana Research and Charities Trust. Fashion and lifestyle Accessory Design, 2012-2016 NIFT,New Delhi No part of this document will be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, Electronically or mechanically, including photocopy,xerography and videography recording, withour written permission from the publisher, Neha Mann and NIFT .
Contents Acknowledgment Objective Chapter 1: Introduction to company About Arpana Company Profile Mission Services Hierarchy of Oragnisation Insight into ARCT Recognitions and international support Chapter 2: The Chamba Experience Arpana Integrated Socio-economic & Medical Center Hierarchy of Oragnisation Work Calendar Identification of crafts SWOT Analysis Market research Product Concepts Log book lists Production Cost Calculation Completion certificate Retrospect
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Industry Internship
Acknowledgment Through this document, I take the opportunity to sincerely thank every individual who was a part of this unforgettable experience. I would like to thank NIFT for its reputation as a trusted brand, which makes such collaborations possible. I would like to thank Mrs. Aruna Dayal, Director, Arpana Rural Services for all her guidance and support as my industry mentor. It was due to her pro-activity that I didn’t feel a lack of resources in the remote locations where my work was assigned. She has been an inspiration to me, handling all facets of the company with equal importance and passion. I whole heartedly appreciate Mr. P C Kapur, Director, Arpana Gajnui Center, for walking me through the processes and culture of the
organisation. His experience brought a great deal of confidence in me to execute my planned tasks. I also revere Mrs. Kapur, for giving me hope when I faced unexpected predicaments. The Gajnui team together has supported me and taught me a lot about the industry and its environment. I thank each one of them, as they helped me at each step, contributing their ideas from their particular specialisations. The most important part of my experience, were all the women from the Self Help Groups who indulged in my concepts and created the products. I appreciate their trust and diligence. I owe it to all of them for everything I learned in this duration.
Objective An understanding of how the industry functions, in terms of infrastructure, organisational setup and manufacturing. Studying production control, quality check, marketing, costing. To be associated with the design/management personnel in order to plan the schedule and monitor the process of learning.
Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
Chapter 1 Introduction to Company
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Industry Internship
Arpana. Arpana is a registered inter-faith, non-political organisation whose spiritual foundation guides members to imbibe the eternal values and translate them into practical living through selfless service. Some 80 volunteers from diversified professional backgrounds chose to undergo Arpana’s training which nurtures the desire to give of oneself in loving service and reap the rewards of joy and peace.
“An offering of oneself in complete identification”
Arpana is based in India and works to improve health, provide education and enhance livelihoods through programs covering over 350,000 people in rural Haryana, Himachal Pradesh and in Delhi slum resettlement colonies. Arpana came into being in 1962, through Param Pujya Ma, its founder and inspiration. She sowed seeds of selfless service from the Trust House in Madhuban, Karnal, int he state of Haryana. Gradually, more than 70 volunteers of diverse cultures, nationalities and professions inspired by her, set up and are running Arpana’s programs to serve the needy, the disadvantaged and the vulnerable.
We are the
same essence the same dust.
The issues concerning rural development are largely centered on the iniquitous income, lack of opportunities and poor access of modern techniques to its populace. Arpana believes that sustainable livelihood is the per-requisite for a dignified and better tomorrow and understanding the livelihood systems of the poor is crucial to effective poverty reduction.
To bring holistic and accessible health care to a marginalised population, whilst actively encouraging use of Government services wherever available.
Vedanta
Arpana has formed 516 women’s SHGs which have brought about an incredible enhancement of women’s self-esteem, confidence and social recognition in the family and community in the 248 disadvantaged villages of Haryana and Himachal Pradesh, and in Molar Bund, Delhi.
Unity of all. Love all.
Arpana started its educational programs for disadvantaged children in slum resettlement colonies in Delhi which are based on Children’s needs and aspirations.
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Company Profile
Name of the Company
Arpana Research & Charities Trust
Name of Owner
Mr. Rashmi Thakrar, Chairman
Spiritual Leader
Param Pujya Ma
Sector Society Services Employment, education, health & empowerment Key zone Northern India Head Office Madhuban, Haryana Centers
Madhuban, Bakrota, Molar Bund
Mission To ensure overall wellbeing of the community by providing high quality medical, educational and livelihood services with emphasis on the underprivileged, through hospital, clinics and outreach programs, with commitment, compassion and selflessness.
Arpana’s vision has its origin in the words of Arpana’s Founder, Param Pujya Ma (26.08.1924 – 16.04.2008), who was a Spiritual Visionary. Param Pujya Ma says, “The Lord comes to us in the form of the hungry, the sick, the poor and the downtrodden. To serve them, to share their burdens, and to relieve their pain is the practical shape of surrender to Him.” Arpana envisages a society where humane values predominate, resulting in a society in which: All have the basic necessities of health, proper housing, water and sanitation, education, training and jobs; The underprivileged have opportunities to develop their full potential, enabling them to emerge as prosperous, responsible and joyful citizens of the world.
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Education
Women’s empowerment
Health care
Employment
Services Arpana’s health services began when Arpana’s First Chairman, Dr J.K. Mehta, visited nearby villages to provide medical care to disadvantaged communities. Arpana Hospital was set up in rural Madhuban in Haryana on 2nd October 1980, when Dr Ela Anand, a Gynaecologist, and her surgeon husband, Dr A.K. Anand, moved to Arpana. It became a training and referral centre for surrounding villages in response to critical health conditions in the area. The Integrated Medical & Socioeconomic Centre was set up in Gajnoi, a remote village near Chamba Town in 1994. Molar Bund Slum Development, Delhi Project began in one small slum (East of Kailash) of 700 people in 1992. Programs include a 144 bedded rural hospital, specialty clinics, medical centers, mobile clinics and outreach camps, and creation of health awareness. Village folk are trained as health workers and health resource persons, while doctors, nurses and paramedics are given continuing education classes, seminars and workshops.
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Health Care “The Lord comes to us in the form of the hungry, the sick, the poor and the downtrodden. To serve them, to share their burdens and to relieve their pain is the practical shape of surrender to Him.�
Arpana Hospital is known for quality medical care it provides to the patients, irrespective of their economic status. All patients who come here are seen by specialists and given the same line of dedicated treatment and care. This is possible because Arpana’s doctors believe that illness and pain is the same for everyone. Arpana hospital is a sanctuary for many, when illness strikes. The seedlings of medical service was planted by Dr. J.K. Mehta in 1965 and blossomed further under the guidance of Dr (Mrs) Ela Anand, into a small hospital with a makeshift operation theatre in an old building on 2nd October 1980. Arpana multi-specialty hospital, a 144 bedded facility with 8 departments, excellent doctors supported by admirable infrastructure and equipment (be it intensive care unit and operation theaters), good diagnostic facilities and other amenities. Patients from over 1000 villages and towns avail of the affordable modern medical care, where they are treated with dignity and compassion in clean surroundings.
The Eight Departments are: General Medicine, Ophthalmology, Gynecology & Obstetrics, Surgery, Paediatrics, Orthopedics, Dental and Physiotherapy. Specialty Clinics with Visiting Doctors for Vascular Surgery, Psychiatry, Squint Surgery, Retina Clinics are held. Special Health Check-up packages for Executive, Pr-Employment, Women and General are offered
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2 1 Specialists treat patients for free during camps
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Arpana Hospital, Madhuban, Karnal
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Women’s Empowerment Arpana’s target area mainly consists of landless laborers and marginalized farmers (with landholdings between ½ to 3 acres). This segment constitutes up to 40% of the target villages. It is with rural women from these sections that Arpana engages. Poverty, lack of education, lack of information, lack of opportunities and lack of resources keep them captive. It is a captivity enhanced by patriarch social norms that discourage and deny the active participation of women in civic life. Thus, despite national laws and policies that promote women’s roles in governance, the participation of women in local governance is very low. Arpana promotes livelihood through the programs such as formation of self help groups and their linkage with banks, and through imparting practice oriented knowledge and skill on livelihood promotion to women and farmer entrepreneurs.
A Self Help Group (SHG) is an informal association of 10 to 20 women belonging to the same village and sharing a common socioeconomic background. This approach combines access to low-cost financial services with a process of self management and development for the women who are SHG members. SHGs enable women to grow their savings and to access the credit which banks are increasingly willing to lend. SHGs are also community platforms from which women become active in village affairs, stand for local election or take action to address social or community issues (the abuse of women, alcohol, the dowry system, schools, and water supply etc).
Arpana has formed about 980 women’s SHGs, which have brought about an incredible enhancement of women’s self esteem, confidence and social recognition in the family and community in the 234 disadvantaged villages of Haryana and Himachal Pradesh, and in the slum resettlement colonies of Molar Bund, New Delhi. Over 4,700 SHG members have taken loans for their small businesses. These SHGs have also formed two strong federations which give voices to their problems at local level.
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The first of its kind milk cooperative set up by a women’s Self Help Group at village level in Haryana.
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A women’s SHG own their first tractor.
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Tarawati, repaid the initial loan she took to start the embroidery center in her village.
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Industry Internship
Children’s Education One of the greatest benefits that can be given to disadvantaged populations is educational support and care for small children, normally unsupervised whilst parents work. Arpana started its educational programs for disadvantaged children in slum resettlement colonies in Delhi which are based on children’s needs and aspirations, and have as their goal the fulfillment of their dreams. It is the children’s yearning for knowledge, for self expression and self fulfillment that drive Arpana’s endeavors to develop their full potential. Most families of the resettlement colony of Molar Bund live ‘substandard’ lives. For them, survival is a struggle, and most often their children also get trapped into lives full of despair and humiliation.
Arpana’s educational programs give them an opportunity to live with dignity and hope. Arpana provides educational support to the children who have already dropped out of school or who are going to school but are unable to find anyone to help them understand their studies in formal schooling.
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Set up schools in slum resettlement colonies
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Free pre school education
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Former state of the children in Molar Bund
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Livelihood Opportunities Arpana’s focus remains on families of landless labourers and marginalized farmers with landholdings between ½ to 3 acres. This segment constitutes up to 40% of the target villages. Arpana’s target area now extends to 248 villages in Haryana and Himachal Pradesh where Arpana promotes livelihood through the programmes such as SHGs formation, SHG linkage with banks, and through imparting practice oriented knowledge and skill on livelihood promotion to women and farmer entrepreneurs. They help build opportunities by forming SHGs and training them in different employment generating areas. The milk-cooperative in Madhuban and handicrafts in Chamba are livelihood opportunities created by Arpana.
The main objective is to make the villagers self sufficient and independent from the tedious and unpredictable task of farming. They build strong skill bases, so a systematic unit is setup and the work is of commercial quality. They also train farmers to know their occupation better and produce better qualities through advanced technology and techniques.
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Group training on farming techniques
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Hand threshing unit setup
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Vehicles to transport their produce to markets in Chamba town and Dalhousie
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Hierarchy Umbrella Organisation:
Paul Hamlyn Foundation was established by Paul Hamlyn in 1987. Upon his death in 2001, he left most of his estate to the Foundation, creating one of the largest independent grant-making foundations in the UK. Their mission is to help people overcome disadvantage and lack of opportunity, so that they can realise their potential and enjoy fulfilling and creative lives. They have a particular interest in supporting young people and a strong belief in the importance of the arts. They have been working in India since 1992. Paul Hamlyn spent time in India and wanted to help communities there. It is the only place they fund outside the UK.
They introduced a new strategic plan for India at the beginning of 2013 under which they increased their annual spend to around ÂŁ1.8m (about Rs. 175m). Their funding in India falls into two categories. They operate an open grants scheme that focuses on vulnerable communities in particular regions. They also make themed grants, which focus on particular groups of people who are especially vulnerable, anywhere in India. The first of these themes, launched in 2013, is called ‘Lost childhoods’, and relates to children who live on or around the railways. Other themes are in development.
Spiritual leader Param Pujya Ma 1962-2008 Successive spiritual leader Pujya Chhote Ma 2008-2015 Chief Patron Mr. Rashmi Thakrar Director , Tilda President at
Exective Director at
Arpana Trust (Society)
Arpana Research & Charities Trust
Vice President Mrs. Aruna Dayal
Director & Project Developer Mrs. Aruna Dayal
Admin & Management Ms. Abha Bhandari
Admin & Management Mr. Ravinder Dayal
Secretary Ms. Anne Robinson
Consultant & Advisor Ms. Abha Bhandari
Mr. Harishwar Dayal
Asst. Secretary Mr. Ravinder Dayal Treasurer Mr. Anuranjan Singh
Mr. Harishwar Dayal
Secretary Ms. Anne Robinson Trustee Arpana Research & Charities Trust Mr. Harishwar Dayal Ms. Abha Bhandari Dr. Mrs. Ela Anand Mrs. Aruna Dayal Ms. Anne Robinson Mr. Ravinder Dayal Mr. Anuranjan Singh Dr. Rahul Gupta
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Industry Internship
Insight into ARCT Arpana Research & Charities Trust is an NGO, working for the upliftment of under privileged in three states. Health & Development are the basic areas of its work. It has the following Departments. a.
Arpana Hospital – A multi specialty Hospital with 144 beds
b.
Arpana Medical & Diagnostic Centre, Upper Bakrota (H.P)
c.
Rural Development Department at Madhuban , Karnal & Gajnui (H.P)
International organisations supporting Arpana in its activities.
Recognitions 1
The World Health Organization (WHO) awarded Arpana the Sasakawa Health Prize for “outstanding innovative rural health services”. The Government of India’s National Commission on Women honoured Arpana for its work on empowerment of women, gender equity and justice. The Government of India has also recognized Arpana Trust as a “scientific organization for spiritual research”. In successive years the Himotkarsh National Integration Award was conferred for Arpana’s health and socio-economic programmes in the State.
The State of Haryana has recognized Arpana’s Family Planning activities and intensive Eye Programme with many awards and certificates over the years. Royal College of Gynaecologists and Obstetricians, London, conferred an Honorary Fellowship on Dr. Ela Anand, Arpana’s Director Medical Services, for Arpana’s Maternity and Child Health Care Programs. Haryana Institute of Fine Arts conferred their highest award for Outstanding Achievements in Social Sciences on Arpana. His Royal Highness Prince Charles visited Arpana Madhuban, Karnal
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Chapter 2 The Chamba experience
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Gajnui is one of the several small villages located 15km from the town of Chamba. The entire village houses not more than 5 families. It is situated on the highway leading to Dalhousie from Chamba town.
Arpana Integrated
Socio-economic
& Medical Center Village Gajnui, Chamba District, Himachal Pradesh, India. Earlier famous as the only hospital in this inaccessible location, this building is not the center for field work directed towards upliftment of rural India.
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“Only when you drink from the river of silence shall you indeed sing.� -Khalil Gibran
Chamba is the only state in northern India to preserve a well-documented history from circa 500 A.D. Its high mountain ranges have given it a sheltered position and helped in preserving its centuries old relics and numerous inscriptions. The temples erected by kings of Chamba more than a thousand years age continue to be under worship and the land grant-deeds executed on copper plates by them continue to be valid under the law.
Hierarchy at Gajnui center
Director Mr. P.C. Kapur
Supervisor Mr. Ajay Kumar
Accountant Mr. Pawan Kumar
Integrated community development workers ICDW
Mr. Chain Lal Senior field worker
Mr. Prakash
Ms. Rakhi Craft trainer
Ms Veena
Ms Shanta
Ms. Lambo Craft trainer
Ms. Aneesha Craft trainer
Trainees
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Work Calendar June-July
29th May-1st June
Identifying local crafts
2nd June
Measuring their potency
3rd June-6th June
Market research
6th June
Materials available
7th June-9th June
Product conceptualisation
10th June
Material sourcing
11th June-13th June
Prepare log lists
13th June
Commence training Technique explorations Production: First batch (guided) Material sourcing Production: Second batch(independent)
20th July
Cost calculation
21st July-22nd July
Stock inventory
23rd July-24th July
Product-wise instruction manuals
26th July
Presentation to jury
Identification Identification of crafts required visits to different villages and meeting the women. The women were pre occupied with farming and other chores so only 2 hours each day could be dedicated to these meetings. The four villages: Kujjal Chhatar Devidehra Maankot were located at varying distances from Gajnui and required a combination of road travel and trekking to reach.
Kujjal
All the women readily showcased their work which they created in their leisure time to decorate their houses. None of them had ever marketed their products and hence created pieces of art- what pleased their aesthetic sense. The design aspect which would turn their art into products was missing.
Maankot
Chhatar
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1 Chamba Rumaal The poetry in threads The word ‘ Chamba rumal ‘ implies a peculiar visual art form that represents unique and charming embroidery done on a hand spun cloth with untwisted silken thread,which is greatly inspired from pahari painting. The tradition of this kind of pictorial embroidery was known & practiced in some areas of Himachal Pradesh and Jammu which remained once important centers of pahari painting. Rumal is Persian word which means a ’ kerchief ’, a square piece of cloth worn on the head or around the neck. Chamba rumaal artists at Rang Mahal, in Chamba town. Smt. Dinesh Kumari trains girls in this craft since 1996.
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A revolving frame displaying both sides of the kerchief.
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A woman displaying dorukha tanka technique
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The identical front and back of the same bedsheet
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Technical Details The stitch
The pattern
Dorukha-tanka. This double satin stitch used in the Chamba Rumal is unique, which is not noticed in anywhere else in Indian embroidery tradition. It creates identical patterns on both sides of the cloth.
The drawing was drawn in outlines with fine brush by the accomplished pahari painters sometimes,the female embroiders would prefer to draw the patterns and figures themselves.
Material
Shape of the kerchief
The cloth employed for the embroidery was generally unbleached muslin or khaddar due to its local availability and affordability. Untwisted, unspun silk floss threads are used for stitching the patterns.
The shape of rumal is varied with square and oblong shapes;they are ranged from small to a bed-sheet length.
Visualising the pattern Charcoal outline drawing of the pattern Dorukha tanga technique to embroider the cloth
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Legal rights Chamba rumal has been registered under Geographical Indications (GIs) of Goods Act. THE GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS OF GOODS (REGISTRATION AND PROTECTION) ACT, 1999
An Act to provide for the registration and better protection of geographical indications relating to goods. “Geographical Indication�, in relation to goods, means an indication which identifies such goods as agricultural goods, natural goods or manufactured goods as originating, or manufactured in the territory of a country, or a region or locality in that territory, where a given quality, reputation or other characteristic of such goods is essentially attributable to its geographical origin and in case where such goods are manufactured goods one of the activities of either the production or of processing or preparation of the goods concerned takes place in such territory, region or locality, as the case may be.
1 Commonly noticed motifs
2 Vishnu and Laxmi seated on garuda, Early Chamba Painting
3 Charcoal graph for embroidery
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2 Chamba Chappal Leather craft The chappals and slippers that are crafted in Chamba are highly renowned and the first choice of the tourists. This leather chappal of Chamba is well-known because of its comfort and lightness. It seems that the tourists coming from the distant parts of the world are in love of this exclusive leather works. Due to this overwhelming popularity of leather crafts especially chappals the crafts persons get more inspired to experiment new patterns and designs. These are made by the male members of establishments. As usual, the bottom of the Chappal is first cut according to required size and shape. The filling with waste leather pieces
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is done by gluing the same with paste, made locally known as lati. Thereafter it is hidden by sticking the lower and the upper portion of the sole with a flat leather cord. After that the vamp along with the tieing strap is stitched. These are also made in the same manner as Chamba Chappals except that the embroidery on the vamp is done by women embroiderers.
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Coloured chamba chappals at a shop in Chamba Town
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A craftsman in his shop
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Women who embroider the vamp
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Technical Details Tools Dyes, oils, shoe polish, beveler, seeder, veiner, glue guns, punch pliers, leather decoration tools, mallets and stamps.
Materials Different types of leather are required in this purpose as all patterns don’t suit a particular type of leather. Apart from leather, wool is considered as another raw material. It is highly important for doing the embroidery works on the chappals. Zari threads used on velvet cloth have now replaced the original art of embroidering leather.
Processes Cutting pattern Stamping Leather Impressions of dyes are pressed upon pre dampened leather to create interesting patterns. Dyeing Leather For dyeing the leather the craftsman mixes the dyes with spirit or alcohol. Alcohol is used to dye leather because alcohol gets absorbed in leather and thus the color becomes long lasting. Various types of stains
like highlighters or antiquing are often used by the craftsman in order to give a definition to some of the specific parts. Sometimes oil and shoe polish are also used for dyeing purpose as oils make the color darker and long lasting. Special Ink One craftsman in Chamba claims to have mastered the use of a special ink to create coloured patterns on his footwear. While others dye the entire pattern with a single colour, he boasts of being able to use more than one colour in the same design. Price ` 250-300/pair
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Chamba Chappal for women
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Chamba Chappal for men
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Die cutting on strap
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Stamping
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Die cutting patterns
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Using negatives of the die cuts
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Special ink for detailing
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Detailing on sole
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Leather Embroidery The leather craft of Chamba has been going downhill for the past ten years due to several of the following reasons:
There are only two women still continuing this craft, but on velvet cloth rather than leather.
Leather is imported from Jalandhar and the prices have increased while the quality has decreased drastically.
Subhadra Devi Specialises in coloured embroidery Makes 15 pair/day Paid ` 15/pair
Cheeno Devi The artisans were underpaid and Specialises in Zari embroidery couldn’t make a livelihood out of Makes 20 pair/day Paid ` 15/pair it.
The customers are unaware of the original product and settle for anything the seller calls a Chamba Chappal, hence owing to a loss of identity to the craft. The women who had the skill to embroider leather are too old to spend the time and patience it requires. Their new generations are directed towards education and don’t want to indulge in this age old craft.
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Embroidered sample
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Awl needle
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Zari vamps
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Zari embroidery in process
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3 Chamba Shawl Khaddi Shawl Chamba Shawls are woven on hand looms in wool. One thread is cotton and the other crossing thread is wool. The shawls have a bright border in traditional design. Such designs have distinct regional variations. The woven designs are used in making the famous Chamba caps also Vidya, an artisan at Rang Mahal, takes 45 days to hand weave a shawl. These shawl are sold for ` 800-100.
1 Artisan weaving a shawl 2 Shawls at a store
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4 1 The setup 2 The colours for weaving 3 Vidya, hand weaving the shawl
4 Colour sorter
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4 Knitting Technique
Patterns
Knitting is a method by which yarn is manipulated to create a textile or fabric.
Chamba patterns are a mix of several bright colours and are centered around stripes and geometric shapes. The colours are very striking and hence stand out as a region specific craft.
Knitting creates multiple loops of yarn, called stitches, in a line or tube. Knitting has multiple active stitches on the needle at one time. Knitted fabric consists of a number of consecutive rows of interlocking loops. As each row progresses, a newly created loop is pulled through one or more loops from the prior row, placed on the gaining needle, and the loops from the prior row are then pulled off the other needle.
Time 1 month/sweater 10 days/pair of socks (The women spend only their leisure time for these crafts)
Materials Different qualities and colours of yarns based on the end use. A coarser yarn was used for socks for rough use.
1 Chamba socks in the town market 2 Gloves made by one of the villagers 3 Sweater hand knitted by one of the women at the village
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5 Corn-Husk Weaving Chakla Process Hand weaving of the husk manipulating the tightness or looseness of the weave. One side of the mat is always smooth and the other rough.
Materials In September, during harvest, the husk of the corn fields is available in abundance. It is a strong material and gains further strength when woven into a pattern.
Sometimes, the women wrapped the underside in another material like jute or sack to increase the durability of the mat. They also stitch patterns on top of the sack as a representation of their aesthetic sense.
Time 2-3 days/pc (round mat) 7-8 days/pc (long mat)
Product variations Mats to spread on the floor. Round mats to sit on.
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1 Round mat 2 Round mat with jute 3 Round mat with stitched pattern 4 Rolled long mat 5 Long mat
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Crochet on a bulb
2 Crochet pattern 3 A woman showcasing her wall hanging artwork
4 Exploration using ribbons
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6 Crochet Crochet is a process of creating fabric by interlocking loops of yarn, thread, or strands of other materials using a crochet hook. The salient difference between crochet and knitting, beyond the implements used for their production, is that each stitch in crochet is completed before proceeding with the next one, while knitting keeps a large number of stitches open at a time.
Materials
Different types of yarns. Different hooks depending on the yarn. The table below explains the sizes and their codes. Chamba had a maximum of B&C available to work with.
Time
2-3 days/pc (flat pattern) 5-6 days/pc (table covers) 10-15 days/pc (wall hanging)
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7 Patchwork Giddi Tools Sewing machine, scissors, measuring instruments,.
The women at these villages mostly hand stitched old clothes together to make a seat cover or padded floor seating.
Materials
Time
Different rags, printed or solid. Threads. Smaller rags for padding.
1-2 hours/pc
Processes Cutting pattern Patchwork or “pieced work� is a form of needlework that involves sewing together pieces of fabric into a larger design. The larger design is usually based on repeat patterns built up with different fabric shapes (which can be different colors).
The origin of this craft lay in the lack of warm quilts in this cold region. Women would cover their children with layers and layers of old worn out clothing. It gradually led to the idea of stitching all those together to form a functional product.
1 Hand stitched seats 2 Machine stitched seat 3 Hand stitched quilt
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8 Plastic Weaving Taking a strong stance on the adverse effects of plastic on health and environment, the Himachal Pradesh High Court had ordered a statewide ban on the sale of junk food in nonbiodegradable packets from April 1, 2013. The women at a few villages began using plastic waste from biscuit wrappers and other packaging to weaving baskets.
Processes
Materials
Time
Plastic wrappers. Plastic rope. Flexible wooden sticks for mounting plastic on.
6-7 days/pc
The wrappers are collected and laid flat. These are then twisted on flexible sticks and tightly bound by plastic ropes in different patterns. The sheen of the material and its combination with the colours of the rope pleases the women aesthetically and is thus a product used for celebratory occasions.
1 Top view of a basket 2 Under side of the basket 3 A basket still in the weaving process
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1 Sheet metal plaques on display 2 Dheeraj, the master craftsman in Chamba town
3 Casted souvenirs at his shop 2
9 Cast Metal Material The presence of minor copper mines in Chamba district helped to obtain the necessary raw material. Alloy compound, brass is commonly used for casting metalware in Chamba. Process Small and medium size sculpturer pieces are cast in stylized forms in the traditional work in small studios which also serve as their shops. The furnace for larger casting work is kept away from the shops. These metal workers make sheet metal articles too. Beautiful plaques in relief method are done quite efficiently.
The plaques, shaped like huge plates are for wall decoration. Quite often designs from Chamba miniatures are used to make the relief work on the plaques. Decorations for temple cupolas are made in copper and brass. The old temples have golden kalasa or vessel on top. Price Casted products are sold on the basis of weight. Sheet metal products are priced according to the time taken to draw the patterns in the metal.
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Chamba Rumaal
S W O T
Chamba Chappal
Chamba Shawl
Represent the heritage of Chamba. Registered under GI.
Has a strong market as a popular souvenir.
Has gained a well earned reputation of high quality.
Need practice in the skill. Extremely time consuming.
Deteriorating quality.
Time consuming.
Stylised motifs.
Revival of original craft.
Fabric exploration. Small home decor items.
Might loose its cultural essence in the process of innovation. Might become unaffordable
Lack of artisans.
Use of same techniques to produce new products.
Might loose its cultural essence in the process of innovation.
Knitting
Does not require a setup. Can be done in leisure time.
The women are acquainted with a few patterns and would take time to learn new ones.
Introduction of new product categories which reduce the time taken and represent the same skill set.
Exploring advanced techniques.
Economic uncertainty.
Might take very long to produce a commercially innovative product as it is a universal craft.
Might become unaffordable.
New product categories.
Corn husk weaving
Abundance of material. Can be done in leisure time.
Crochet
Patchwork
Easy to do.
Requires basic stitching skills.
Women are well versed with various techniques.
Abundance of material.
Plastic weaving
Cast Metal
Reuse of waste material.
Locally available material.
Variety in appearance by using different wrappers,
The artisans are very skilled and experienced.
Very raw form. Seasonal craft.
New braiding techniques. New product categories. Surface techniques for finishing.
Introduction of new techniques might increase time taken.
The pattern don’t usually lay flat unless stretched.
Requires stitching practice as the pattern complexes.
Refining of the skill.
Refining of the skill.
Addition of natural materials to increase value.
New product categories.
New techniques.
New techniques.
Might take very long to produce a commercially innovative product as it is a universal craft.
It is difficult to produce enough rags for a set of products that need identical fabric.
Plastic is considered unsustainable for many products.
Difficult to find enough plastic waste in HP due to the ban.
It is an expensive craft.
Using the cultural aspect in contemporary products.
The artisans are reluctant to innovate as they have been practicing it for very long.
Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
Chamba socks
Market Research Tibetan carpets at the Tibetan Handicrafts Emporium, Dalhousie Cast metal shop
Chamba Chappal at Chamba Town
Kullu Patti
Different qualities of yarn at Chamba Town
Kullu caps
Handloom scarves
Chamba socks
1
Chamba Town
2 Dalhousie 3 Panch Kula
Crochet yarn at Dalhousie Crochet throw
Kullu jackets at Panch Kula
Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
Product Concepts Duration: 2 months Design Brief To systematise a business network for women across the Mehla block of Chamba, Himachal Pradesh. Key features The new techniques should be easy to learn and practice. Material availability should be priorly noted. Locally available material will be more financially viable. A systematic format is to be prepared to build a strong foundation for the upcoming business. Its continuity should be ensured by stocking the inventory on completion of the training. A trainer has to be identified in each SHG, who will keep record of each member’s efficiency and each product’s quality. Standard quality control and inspection lists will be issued by the organisation.
Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
CENTRE MAT
TABLE RUNNERS
LAPTOP SLEEVES
CUSHION COVERS
Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
Product Codes (to be used in all records)
CC1 Cushion cover 1
TR1 Table runner 1
CC2 TR2 CC3
CC4 TR3
CC5
CC6
PM1 Place Mat 1
Design Stages STAGE 1
STAGE 4
Cutting the pattern on base cloth Ironing Dimensional accuracy Straightness Allowances (margins
Assembly Placement accuracy Straightness Clean folds Strength
STAGE 2 Cutting the patches Washing Ironing Dimensional accuracy Straight cutting Allowances
STAGE 5 Finishing Ironing Cleanliness Design accuracy
STAGE 3 Cutting the batting (if any) Dimensional accuracy Straightness
The trainer would inspect and record the progress at the end of each stage. It would be their responsibility to fill the inspection forms issued by the organisation. These inspection lists would keep track of each individual’s progress as well as the quality of each product.
Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
NehaInternship Mann Industry
Chamba Product Training
Arpana 2015
PRODUCT INSPECTION Village Name: _____________ Name
Product Code
Ironing
STAGE 1 Dimensions Straightness
Neha Mann
Allowances
Washing
Ironing
STAGE 2 Dimensions Straightness
Chamba Product Training
Arpana 2015
WORKER EFFICIENCY Village Name: _____________ Date: Name
Product Code
Hours Worked
Accuracy (1-5)
Defects (1-5)
Design Stage (1-5)
Product
Hours
Accuracy
Defects
Design
Date: Name
Allowances
Neha Mann
Arpana 2015
ARPANA PRODUCT TRAINING
Meeting Agenda
PROCEEDINGS OF THE MEETING
Example
Neha Mann
Arpana 2015
Meeting No.: 01 Time: ………………………………………
Date : …………………………………….. Venue: …………………………………….
arpana
ARPANA PRODUCT TRAINING
product training PROCEEDINGS OF THE MEETING Proceedings of the meeting Number of Members Present: ……………….
Number of Members absent: ………………… Total Members of SHG: ……………….……… Meeting No.: 01 Time: ………………………………………
MEETING AGENDA
Date : …………………………………….. Venue: …………………………………….
1. Confirming names of participating members 2. Discussing rules and regulations overall obejective ad scope 3. Discussing Number of Members Present: ………………. CC2 : Stage 1,2 4. Number of Members absent: ………………… and worker 5. Inspection: Total Members ofProduct SHG: ……………….……… 6. Material dispatch
MEETING AGENDA 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Confirming names of participating members Discussing rules and regulations Discussing overall obejective ad scope CC2 : Stage 1,2 Inspection: Product and worker Material dispatch
Trainer’s Signature
ICDW Signature
Training Incharge Signature
Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
Rules And Regulations 1. All members are supposed to report at the venue and time duly decided. 2. All fabric should be washed and ironed beforehand. 3. Raw material should be judiciously used and all use must be recorded. 4. All members must conform to the trainer’s advice. 5. Every member’s individual progress report will be maintained to measure efficiency and participation. 6. If there is a problem with the machinery, immediately report it to the trainer so it can be resolved. 7. If a member produced a flawed product, immediately report to the trainer. 8. At the end of each stage, verify results with the product guidelines and notify the trainer 9. Please do not begin a new stage unless the previous stage has been approved by the trainer. 10. Any disputes or mis-communications must be resolved peacefully with the help of the trainer.
Responsibilities of the trainer 1. Maintaining the Attendance Register. 2. Track progress and efficiency of each member by regularly filling the Member Efficiency Report. 3. Conduct on site inspections at each stage and filling the Product Quality Report regularly. 4. Maintaining the Stock Inventory and reporting requirements or misuse. 5. Conducting efficiently planned meetings to maintain a definite flow of work. 6. Reporting problems regarding machinery, technique, material, etc. to the concerned staff. 7. Recruiting two women each week to collect scrap material from tailors in Chamba Town. 8. Verifying the product quality at each design stage. 9. Promoting or demoting members to different design stages based on their performance. 10. Ensuring that the members discuss problems and achievements on a regular basis
Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
Production Product 1 : Centre Mat 1. Cutting the base (dark colour for rough use) 2. Cutting the patches 3. Stitching patches to each other according to the numbering in fig 3 4. Basting patches on the foam padding 5. Final stitch on foam 6. Preparing a piping a little longer than the entire perimeter of the form. 7. Stitching piping, bottom base and top patchwork together.
1 2 3
Tracing the paper pattern on the base. Adding allowances and cutting. Using the stencil to trace the patches Cutting the patches with allowances
1
2
3 Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
1
2
3
4
1 2
Schematic drawing indicating patch placement Patches stitched together
3
Basting patches on foam
4
Final machine stitch
5
Finished centre mat with base and piping
5 Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
Product 2 : Cushion Cover 1 1. Cutting the base : front and back 2. Cutting the patches 3. Stitching patches to each other according to the numbering 4. Basting patches on the foam padding 5. Final stitch on foam 6. Preparing a piping a little longer than the entire perimeter of the form. 7. Stitching piping, bottom base and top patchwork together.
1
Measurement for the base, front and back
2
Dimensions of the patches
Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
1
1
Indication of patch placement
2
Stitching the patches together
3
Preparing piping
4
Cutting top patches
5
5
2
3
4
The schematic drawing for placement of top patches.
2
1 3
4
5
6
1
First product at Kujjal
4
Envelope back
2
First cushion cover at Chhatar
5
Use of printed piping
3
Practice work at Chhatar
6
Following placement of top patches Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
Product 3 : Cushion Cover 2 1. Cutting the base : front and back 2. Cutting the strips in increasing lengths. 3. Stitching patches to front base according to the design 4. Preparing a piping a little longer than the entire perimeter of the form. 5. Stitching piping, bottom base and top patchwork together.
1
Front and back base dimensions
2
Dimensions of the longest strip with allowance Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
1
Indication of patch placement
2
Checking placement
3 4
Cutting the patches using stencil Stitching the patches to base
5
First attempt
6
Back attempt 1
7
Final product
1 2
3
4
5
6
7
8 Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
Product 4 : Cushion Cover 2 Variation 1. Cutting the base : front and back 2. Cutting the strips in increasing lengths. 3. Stitching strips with each other as given in diagram 4. Stitching all 8 triangles to form 4 perfect squares. 5. Stitching the squares to form a larger square. 6. Stitching the patchwork with the piping and back base.
1
Cutting the strips
2
Machine stitching the basted strips
3
Checking for accuracy in angle
Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
1
2
3
4
1
Preparing the piping
4
Final cushion cover: attempt 1
2
Basting the zipper
5
Back zipper : attempt 1
3
Basted patchwork according to design
6
Product close up
Machine stitching the patchwork on foam
5
6
7
Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
Product 5 : Cushion Cover 2 1. Cutting the base : front and back 2. Cutting foam 3. Quilting the base on the foam 4. Cutting the patch using the stencil keeping allowances 5. Ironing the seams inwards for neat curves 6. Placing the patches according the design and basting them 7. Final machine stitching the patches to the quilted base 8. Preparing the piping 9. Stitching the top, bottom base and piping together
Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
Cutting two bases: top and bottom
Quilting practice
Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
1
Tracing the stencil of the patch
3
Stitching the patch according to design
2
Cutting and ironing the patch
4
Dimensions of the patches
1
2 3 4
5
One set of four patches stitched in place
6
Closing the base with piping
6
7
The schematic drawing to show patch placement
7
5
Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
Crochet in progress 1
2 1
Side button cushion cover
2
Hexagon motif practice
Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
1
1
Repeat squares envelope cushion cover
2
Cotton rag crochet rug
2
Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
1
Weaving the strips
2
Stitching on fabric base
3
Strip weaving cushion cover closed with crochet piping
Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
Cost Calculation The labour cost set by the organisation is Rs.50/day (8 hours) for the initial stage where their skill is still in the developing stage. We added a 30% profit on the products at Kujjal and Chhatar. This is based on the present quality of products. Also since quality is varying from product to product, the prices are subject to change. (referring to the +/- quality). We then added a 40% profit on the products of Devidehra, as Crochet work in general has higher possibilities of being neater and better quality. Also, they had more time to produce their first batch unlike the ones produced at the other two villages for sale in an upcoming festival. We calculated the Cost Price as such C.P.= Material+Labour Selling Price (S.P.)= C.P. + Profit The C.P. is the lower limit for sale and S.P. is the upper limit (+/- quality). Once the women create products of commercial value, these costs will be revised using an extensive research of the customer, competitors, expansion plan. For example:
Other proposals:
As production continues and the women acquire expertise, we can add the Overhead Expenses and increase labour costs and profit margins. Products available in sets (cushion covers, sets of 5) can be offered with a 10% discount when bought in a set. For eg, a cushion cover is priced at Rs. 210 individually. Five such cushions cost the customer Rs. 1050. We could offer a 10% discount, which means the set is available for Rs. 950. This could prompt the consumer to buy in bulk, rather than individually. We deliberately priced the products at odd costs like 215, 260 as it promotes the idea that the pricing is systematically calculated and not randomly designated.
Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship
Retrospect This craft-based internship, set in the beautiful location of Chamba, has been a very memorable experience for me. Not only did I understand about the technicalities of an industry in detail, I learnt responsibility. The remote location of my project with a non-design firm, exposed me to facets of life I hadn’t witnessed before. Every part of my work was filled with study of the culture and ethics of the people. I believe it worked in my favour to be given multiple responsibilities, most of which I had not much knowledge of. My study included mapping the history and hierarchy of the company. I spent ample amount of time learning about the organisation and its functioning. This in depth knowledge of the organisation and its philanthropic work, has helped me grow as a person. As a design student, my learning included: History and evolution of the local crafts.
Assessing the feasibility of these crafts with respect to finance, market and consumer. Extensive market study in several local market places in Chamba District of HP. Working with alternate material due to lack of variety in the area. Working with the communication barrier. Fulfilling formal requirementslike creating log books- before commencing a training. Importance of standardisation and quality control. Cost Calculation and marketing strategies.
I would conclude by saying, this internship made me realise how fortunate we are to be surrounded by such opportunities and resources.
Neha Mann | F&LA 7 | 2015
Industry Internship