Crafting the Aloha Spirit: Island
Distillers
MicroShiner Definitive Guide to the World of Craft Spirits
Summer 2014
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Top of the Hill
DISTILLERY
SPIRIT WORKS Keeping it Local and Organic
LONGBOARD ARTIST Finding the Flow
PROOF - SEATTLE Washington State Distillers Showcase SUMMER 2014
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contents Letter From the Publisher Drinking Music Spirit Review—Scorpion Mezcal Craft Event—PROOF -Seattle, WA Crafting Cocktails—Sonoma Distilling Co’s Old Fashioned TOPO Distillery - Chapel Hill, North Carolina Artisan—McCollum Custom Longboards Spirit Works - Sebastapol, California Pairings—Whistling Andy’s Hopshnop Island Distillers - Hawaii
summer
2014
11 12 16 18 28 34 54 72 90 106
Publisher Contributing Editor Staff Contributor Staff Photographer Webmaster
Cobey Williamson David Schreib Jeff Mattson Brian Cary Kelsey Binder
Contributing Design & Production
Sean Schlimgen
Contributing Writers
Vita Duva Chrissy Cary Jacquelyn Davis Emily Hamaan
Contributing Photographers
Brian Johnson Craig McCollum Ryan Castoldi Marc Woltinger Beth Fischer
Working Dog Media, LLC 1406 Summerdale Rd Corvallis, MT 59828
Š2014 All rights reserved. The contents of this magazine cannot be duplicated without the prior written consent of the owner. The views contained within the contents of MicroShiner Magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of its owners or staff.
Cover Photo & Inside Cover by Brian Cary / Contents Photo by Beth Fischer
Photo by Ryan Castoldi ÂŤ MicroShiner.com | PAGE 9
Letter from the Publisher
PAGE 10 | MicroShiner.com Âť Photo by Brian Cary
Letter from PUBLISHER the
According to the Oxford Dictionary, to distill is to “extract the essential meaning or most important aspects of,” which for me is the most intriguing thing about the whole micro-distiller movement. The entire enterprise is predicated upon the act of condensing a substance to its fundamental core, so that we can appreciate it at the most elemental level. And while on the surface this may appear to simply be a reference to the physical process of distilling craft spirits, I believe it actually speaks to a deeper sentiment which is motivating this burgeoning craft culture. Words matter. We use them constantly, and sometimes without fully comprehending the subtle nuance separating one from another, or how and why they first came into being. I like to describe MicroShiner as “the definitive guide to the world of craft spirits”; but does that refer to the craft subset of liquor only, or does it denote a world embodied by the spirit of the crafters themselves? If this magazine concerned itself with nothing more than alcohol, I would consider it a failure. Ultimately, the goal is not to promote one bottle
or label over another, but to inspire our readers to embark on a process of distillation in their own lives, to pare them down to “the essential meaning or most important aspects of.” What this means in practice is up to each of us to determine, but I believe there are some common elements upon which we, at least those of us who live in the world of craft spirits, can all agree. They are such preoccupations as making conscientious choices in sourcing, preparing, and serving our food and drink; exploring ways of meeting our needs outside the box and in our own backyards; and deliberately investing in products and ventures that we feel best serve our goal of creating the world in which we want to live: a world of craft spirits. I hope that within these pages you find the inspiration to join us as we embark upon this journey.
Life. Distilled.
Cobey Williamson Publisher
DRINKING MUSIC
By Jeff Mattson
Drinking Music Glasgow | L.A. | Brooklyn Music and spirits are inextricably intertwined. Whether it’s the
purpose than sheer enjoyment.
rat pack & martinis, the jazz age and bathtub gin, saloon whis-
key and a player piano, or just pickin’ on the porch with a jar
awash with corporate product. Artists are groomed and se-
of shine, where you find one, you will likely find the other. So
lected based on one thing: their ability to sell records. All of
many analogies exist between the two that we felt, as a maga-
the coarseness and irregularity is eliminated, and much of
zine about craft and spirits, inclined – nay almost obliged – to
the nuance and the intangible lost. To paraphrase Neil Young
dedicate some space to music.
at the onset of the digital age, the real music lives between
the 0 and 1.
Music is a craft. Doing it well depends on bringing a
Just as it is in the spirits business, the music market is
number of elements together in just the right proportions,
In that regard, and in keeping with the theme of this pub-
and as with crafting spirits, the resultant product is al-
lication, what we hope to offer you here is that space between
ways greater than the sum of its parts. Differences in equip-
the step and the curve that is so important, yet often goes over-
ment, training, ingredients, recipes are reflected in subtle,
looked. Here we hope to share some bands and music that you
and sometimes not so subtle, variations in character, flavor,
might just find playing onstage in your local tasting room or
tenor, and tone. Each begins with a handful of raw material
watering hole. Here, as with the micro-distilleries we focus on,
that, through a practiced and perfected process, culminates
you just might happen upon someone you know, and together
in a refined and handcrafted product, often for no greater
enjoy a little drinking music.
PAWS
Youth Culture Forever PAWS are a band from Glasgow, Scotland. Fairly straight forward indie rock and roll is probably the simplest description I can give. A hint of late 90’s to early 00’s pop-punk, but with more substance, and a whole lot more distortion. And forget about polished vocals. On their new album “Youth Culture Forever” they at times sound like they were laid down on a cassette player.
PAGE 12 | MicroShiner.com
But interviews suggest
only to dip back seamlessly
the band is trying to stay
into the lull.
away from any lo-fi tags.
That’s fine, I can grapple with
rambunctious
that. What really matters is
sure to be a fan favorite when
that this album rocks. Be-
played live. “Alone” takes a
hind a wall of distortion, this
drowsy stoppage from the
is a collection of surprisingly
chaos and obviously deals
catchy sing along songs.
with
“Give Up” is a driven,
feelings
sing
of
along,
isolation:
The opening track “Er -
“Why should you care about
reur Humaine” is a lulling
what the others think/fuck
and melodic verse that won-
what the others think/when
ders “Do you believe that our
you die, you’re gone, there’s
race has been run? If the an-
no use for you”.
swer is yes, then please tell
me who won.” It then impa-
just under 12 minutes and is
tiently transitions to over -
essentially a huge jam track,
whelming distortion and a
save for the first 2 minutes
blunt
and a jam-signaling, blood-
percussive
response
“War Cry” is an epic of
Summer 2014 boiling “war cry” from lead singer
Phillip
Taylor
that
had me clutching my head in euphoria.
The album is filled with
universal feelings about significant others, seeing lost flames love others, and troubling family life. And despite these supposed clichés, it’s their
brutal
honesty
and
forthcoming regarding these events that make this album relatable. It’s not a lack of subtlety; it’s laying it all out there.
Easily
lease
of
my
favorite
re-
2014
thus
far.
This album has made for a blazing soundtrack to my entire summer. Youth Culture Forever! Crank up your stereo and revel in some true blue honest rock. Whiskey works for this one.
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DRINKING MUSIC
together PANGEA
BADILLAC
A little bit punk, a little bit grunge, and absolutely part of the new wave of rough and dirty rock and roll, whether they like it or not. And while 10 years ago this music would have been coming out of the Pacific Northwest, the current wave is trudging out of Los Angeles, CA. Members include William Keegan on guitar and vocals, Danny Bengston on bass and Erik Jimenez on drums. Chunky
gui-
most hardened rocker to feast
ing one ounce of their rock
the cat man/he’s the taker of
tar, banged up drums, and
distorted
upon. The album makes a
credibility. If you’re not feel-
lives/he’s a bad man/he’s got
monster bass back wailing
bold entrance with “Alive”,
ing particularly angst ridden,
oceans for eyes”. Feeling more
vocals that range from harsh
with lead singer/guitarist Wil-
you’ve got slower songs like
self-deprecating? “Sick Shit”
screams to melodic croons.
liam Keegan belting out “Liv-
“No Way Out” to temper the
will do just fine with nihilis-
for
ing a lie and you don’t even
mood, but honestly, the ap-
tic lyrical content set against
BADILLAC
care/Living a lie and you’re
peal of this album truly lies in
a
and damned if that title track
unaware!” over headbanging,
the unfiltered unbridled rock
minded instrumentation.
isn’t catchy, man. In fact,
palm muted guitar.
and roll.
the
There’s also the twisted
and roll. It’s got a dark side
Their
album,
2014,
called
is
entire
album
new
is
filled
You have your pick of poi-
backdrop
of
apathetic
Unkept, uncombed rock
with enough hooks to stock
sons here, tracks like “Badil-
“Cat Man” which starts out
and it’s proud of it. Grab a
a fish fry, as well as enough
lac” or “River” have the poten-
with a dark guitar based groove
rum and coke, pop this on the
screaming guitar solos and
tial to be stuck in your head
only to break into a mental
juke box, and make yourself
snarling vocals for even the
for days on end without yield-
institute
some rockaholic friends.
PAGE 14 | MicroShiner.com
nightmare:
“He’s
Summer 2014
Habibi
Habibi
Some quick background: Habibi means “My beloved” in Arabic. Now that we’ve got that out of the way, Habibi are also a fantastic group of musicians from Brooklyn, New York, comprised of Lenaya Lynch on guitar and backup vocals, Rahill Jamaltfard on lead vocals and tamborine, Erin Campbell on guitar, bass and vocals, and rounded out by Karen Isabel on drums. Their
harmo-
wrongs: “She Comes Along”
vocal style juxtaposed with
was released this year on
self-titled
debut
Candid
nies and surf guitar abound
vocal
is a lackadaisical low key surf
the stark background har-
Burger Records and is as
over an enjoyably danceable
rock song that lays easy on
monies that flow out of each
catchy an album as you can
rhythm section. 11 tracks of
the ears, “I Got The Moves” is
song.
hope to find. A beautiful mix
short and straight to the point
a title appropriate toe tapper
of 60’s girl group, surf rock,
pop arrangements, in fact the
to get the legs moving, and
rhythm to keep you mov-
and garage rock.
longest track clocks in at
“Let Me In” is a sneaky bass
ing throughout, perfect for
No frills surf guitar, tight
And I don’t say beauti-
3:27, with the majority of the
grooving kicker with a hint of
your summer road trip. Grab
ful because they’re an all girl
songs clocking in at under 3
coyish insecurity.
some mezcal and a lime and
group, I say beautiful be-
minutes. So there’s really no
And
cause their music freaking
opportunity to get bored.
ever
rocks. And it’s appropriately
singer
airy for the warmer weather.
ble cornucopia of can’t-go-
The album is a verita-
there’s
intriguing Rahill
something about
lead
Jamalifard’s
dark and somewhat hushed
head down to the beach to catch some final rays with some buddies.
SPIRIT REVIEW
By Vita Duva
Summer Spirit: Scorpion Mezcal - Scorpion Mezcal S.A. de C.V., Oaxaca, Mexico While mexcal is the oldest spirit to be distilled in North America, this complex, artisanal libation is far too often, and mistakenly, disregarded by today’s industry enthusiasts. Rooted in Oaxaca, a state in southern Mexico, mezcal derives from agave, a plant predominantly native to this land of enchantment. Dubbed “Mexican Cognac” by
agave is only one of the 30
program that doubles as both
19th Century colonial aristo-
legally recognized strains of
a learning platform and a pro-
crats, Oaxaqueños tradition-
the agave plant, making mez-
motional tool. French has also
ally serve mezcal straight with
cal one of the most multifac-
been working directly with
a slice of orange and sal de
eted intoxicants on the globe,
Caballero’s Inc., an importer
gusano - a mixture of ground-
as there is likely an unlim-
of fine mezcals in Oaxaca.
fried larvae, ground chili pep-
ited combination of taste pro-
And in 2002, he partnered
pers and salt.
files for mezcal that have yet
with Sweetman.
to be explored.
Cooked and roasted
“Scorpion
Before
Scorpion,
underground, mezcal is cer-
Mezcal
mezcals on the market fea-
tainly noted for its exception-
Anejo 5 Year is a blend of
tured a worm at the bottom of
ally smoky tang. Despite this,
70% espadin and 30% bar-
the bottle, which adds flavor
mezcal is often revered for
rils agave. It is aged five years
to the hard stuff. But, as a
having little to no bite, mak-
in Canadian oak and double
crafty marketing ploy, French
ing this liquor one enjoyed by
distilled,”
Barbara
decided to put a scorpion
a wide range of palettes.
Sweetman, Vice President and
in his bottle, even though it
Tequila, which is ac-
International Sales Manager
adds no additional flavoring.
tually a subtype of mezcal,
of Scorpion Mezcal. The Anejo
Then, Sweetman coined the
allows production from only
5 Year is her favorite variety.
ever-popular tagline: worms
the Blue Weber agave. Blue
She adds teasingly, “I must
are for wimps.
explains
have expensive taste.”
The Anejo 5 Year is
one of seven types of mezcal produced by Master Distiller Douglas French and his 18 year-old
Oaxaca-based
dis-
tillery, Scorpion Mezcal S.A. de C.V. French, an early pioneer
in
the
industry,
has
helped transform mezcal from a hardly reputable, low-class workers drink into the worldclass beverage it was always meant to be. with
Working side by side the
Association
Pro-
cultura de Mezcal A.C. and other well-known producers, French helped to launch a Master Mezcalier certification
PAGE 16 | MicroShiner.com
This got people not
only drinking, but buzzing. And before French knew it, Scorpion Mezcal had taken on a reputation of its very own. Now, with this wider following, aficionados of mezcal have begun experimenting with cocktails and mixed drinks.
“I like working with
Scorpion most is
Mezcal
cocktails
not
Silver
in
because
it
overly-smoked
and
the true agave flavors still come out,” says Sweetman, as she mixes the Silver with equal parts orange, mango, and passion fruit juices. She tops the concoction off with some mint and lime.
Although simple, the
blend is clean, crisp, and goes down quite easy – definitely worth a shot or two.
In the words of the Oaxacan’s: for everything bad, Mezcal for everything good, the same
LOGGERHEAD DECO, INC. 1187 W. HAWTHORNE LANE. WEST CHICAGO, IL 60185
CRAFT EVENT
By Emily Hamaan / Photos by Ryan Castoldi
PROOF: Washington Distiller’s Guild Fremont Studios, Seattle WA At its core, PROOF was a celebration of the art of craft in the Pacific Northwest, including the collaboration and creativity that resides in its burgeoning craft spirits culture.
PAGE 18 | MicroShiner.com
CRAFT EVENT
PAGE 24 | MicroShiner.com
CRAFTING COCKTAILS Sonoma County serces up their take on a classic cocktail in the Penn Club Presidents’ Room.
Summer 2014
CRAFTING
P
COCKTAILS
tinctive complexity and square-
FEATURE RECIPE
assing a dazzling myriad
of chandeliers and gilded sconces,
jawed afterthought. Not to mention, both companies share in Sonoma’s dedication to American tradition and proudly choose
Independent Spirits Expo Manhattan Cocktail Classic
I meander my way up a grandiose oak staircase – I have finally made it into the Penn Club’s President’s
to drift from modern trends within the industry.
VITA
Room for the start of the New York In-
DUVA
dependent Spirits Expo. This May, the ar-
“We have built this business
around our drinkers,” states Spiegel. “Our customers appreciate that we take
tisanal tasting is presented in sync with
the time to put our best efforts on the
the Manhattan Cocktail Classic. Chatter rises in harmony with the stemless glass-
“Our goal is to find a way to
table. We are making whiskeys more fla-
ware, as cocktails pour feverishly, one
maintain the integrity of the spirit,
vorful and dynamic than 90% of what is
right after another.
while also allowing consumers who may
out there.”
And while the room highlight-
not be ‘neat’ drinkers to enjoy our rye
ing founding father Benjamin Franklin
whiskey,” says Spiegel of the timeless
for six years, still humbly considers him-
and his plentiful accomplishments is
Old-Fashioned mix.
self a student of his fine craft. He contin-
both intense and charming, it is in fact
He adds, “We are looking to
ues to try to understand the approaches
the congested arrangement of small, in-
transform the drinkers’ experience with
of others, while further developing his
dependent spirits and artisan personas
robust flavors and elongated finishes to
well-rounded skills in order to ultimately
that have come to grab my full attention.
ensure our whiskey pairs well with a good
better Sonoma’s whiskies.
meal, happy and joyful celebrations, and
hidden in the far right-hand corner of
can complement a perfect moment.”
the Old-Fashioned, that over the years
the energetic room. Two young gentle-
And that it does.
has been outshined by more modern mix-
men stand smiling in old-style aprons
Rye Whiskey, Sonoma’s key-
tures and weakened by unpleasant add-
amidst a display of whiskies, a tradi-
stone spirit and cocktail base, is aged in
ons such as seltzers and fruit garnishes,
tional copper alembic still, and a unique
new-charred American oak barrels and
Sonoma smartly reminds us of the ideals
yet classic drink titled, the “Sonoma
later finished off in an old wood. This is
on which this country was built and why
Old-Fashioned.”
the product of Sonoma’s grain-to-glass
breaking from convention is not always
These two gentlemen – Adam
production, which features a savory,
for the better.
Spiegel, Owner and Distiller, and Chase
dynamic blend of vanilla, allspice, and
Osthimer, Head of Sales and Marketing -
white pepper.
over the crowded room to find a statue
wholly represent the all-American quin-
Their Old Fashioned recipe calls
of Benjamin Franklin’s face, I sudden-
tessence that is the 4 year-old Rohnert
for Small Hand Food’s Gum Syrup and
ly realize just how fitting a backdrop
Park, California-based in-house distill-
both Scrappy’s Orange and Chocolate
the
ery, Sonoma County Distilling Co.
Bitters, which were chosen for their dis-
happens to be.
I approach a table somewhat
Spiegel, who has been distilling
Pushing a classic cocktail like
Looking up from my drink and
Penn
Club’s
President
Room
MicroShiner.com | PAGE 29
CRAFTING COCKTAILS
The Sonoma old Fashioned - 2 Ounces Sonoma Rye Whiskey - ½ Ounces Small Hand Food’s Gum Syrup - 2 Dashes Scrappy’s Chocolate Bitters - 1 Dash Scrappy’s Orange Bitters - Pour over fresh ice in a old fashioned glass. Garnish with an orange peel Recipe and photo credit: Sonoma Distilling Company
Order yours today at: www.microdistillerybooks.com Amazon - Barnes & Noble
614 S. Higgins Ave - Missoula, Montana www.strongwatersurfboards.com
ON TOP OF THE World WRITTEN BY CHRISSY CARY
C
PHOTOS BY BRIAN CARY
in all of North Carolina: Top of the Hill hapel Hill, NC; home to the UNC
Restaurant, Brewery and Distillery.
Tar Heels, who count among its al-
ums the likes of Michael Jordan, Andy
in part due to the growing popularity of
TOPO, as nicknamed by the locals,
Griffith, and Mia Hamm. Ranked number
text talk, was the brainchild of Scott Mait-
3 on Newsmax Magazine’s “Top 25 most
land, founder and owner of Top of the Hill.
Uniquely American Cities and Towns,” as
Upon his graduation from law school in
written by CBS travel editor Peter Green-
1994, Maitland felt there must be more
berg, Chapel Hill was voted number 10 of
to the food, beer and spirit industry than
100 in CNN Money’s “Best Places to Live
the common chain restaurants that were
2012,” and is hailed as one of “America’s
quickly overrunning this bustling college
Foodiest Small Towns” by Bon Appetit
town. So after 2 years spent raising the
Magazine. It has been lovingly described
money necessary to realize his dream,
as “a town within a park” by those who
Top of the Hill Restaurant and Brewery
live there and, of greatest import, at least
opened to the public.
for anyone who enjoys good beer and spir-
its, is home to one of the most exception-
to win three platinum medals at the
ally anti-establishment craft producers
World Beer Championships, TOPO’s India
One of only six breweries in the world
PAGE 36 | MicroShiner.com
Summer 2014
Pale Ale was bestowed the even greater
ic and local] to be something that set us
serve vodka neat at room temperature; it
honor of being named the best example
apart from the rest. We are spreading the
often gets mixed with cranberry juice, tea,
of its style in the world. In order to offer
thought process, creating a demand for it,
orange juice, or sipped cold to hide the
customers more options than the simple
and creating an awareness in our commu-
flavor (or supposed lack thereof). So why
growler, TOPO’s brewery bought a six-
nity of buyers.”
put so much effort into something that
pack canning machine and began canning
But when TOPO began to work on
would otherwise just be used for its alco-
their IPA and lager, becoming the first
development of their next big spirit, gin,
hol content? Because the depth of qual-
micro-cannery in the South in 2005.
they hit a speed bump...there was no or-
A few years later, Scott decided to
ganic juniper being grown in the region.
open a separate micro-cannery, which
Maitland approached the local farmers in
would have to be a 20,000 barrel a year
search of organic berries but soon discov-
brewery. While waiting for the sales and
ered that as there was no known demand
distribution to catch up with the increased
for the produce, he was unable to acquire
production capacity, Maitland considered
the organic fruit. But now, thanks to Mai-
what he could do with the excess capac-
tland’s inquiries, the word is out and the
ity. Then the light bulb went off, “I could
wheels have been set in motion for the
distill it.” Thus, Top of the Hill Distillery
production and sale of organic juniper.
was born.
So while TOPO’s Piedmont Gin is cur-
From the beginning, Maitland was al-
rently only 99.8% local, the seed has been
ways interested in local economy, “We are
planted, and the future is looking bright
moving into the era of chains and fran-
for one of the first 100% local and organic
chises, local economy is in the transition of corporate consolidation.”
So
imagine his excitement when, while developing
the
distillery, he discovered that North Carolina is one of the best places to
gins to be produced
PEOPLE ARE UNAWARE THEY HAVE THE OPTION TO HAVE LOCAL AND ORGANIC SPIRITS.
in the US. “People
are
unaware they have the option to have local and organic spirits,”
Maitland
explains. Therein the
mission
TOPO:
lies at
leveraging
grow soft red winter wheat, perfect for
their loyal customer base on behalf of
distilling vodka, gin, and whiskey. When
better agricultural techniques, respect-
he bumped into a local farmer attempt-
ful land use, and investment in the local
ing to sell his local organic soft red winter
economy.
wheat, Maitland realized this was the op-
used are sourced from within North Caro-
portunity to invest in the local raw materi-
lina; most can be found within 100 miles
als and encourage good land use he was
of the distillery’s front door.
looking for, all while being able to absorb
the cost and pass it on to a consumer base
mick, a guise created to sell spirits that
willing and prepared to assume it. Little
can’t stand on their own merits…but that
did he know that the organic wheat would
couldn’t be more wrong. “It is important
alter the taste of the spirits…for the bet-
that we do something rooted in tradition,
ter, giving them a sweeter, richer flavor.
rooted in artisanship.”
And as far as the wheat whiskey, it would
be full of the “leather and tobacco” flavors
tilled with 66 plates in their custom CARL
one would expect from bourbon (which
still; the vodka preserves some of the
is corn based), with the added benefit of
smooth flavoring found in the original in-
making the Carolina Whiskey smoother
gredients. Maitland describes the difficul-
and sweeter.
ties with selling a premium vodka, stat-
Discussing the use of organic prod-
ing that it is all about educating people.
ucts, Maitland states, “We wanted [organ-
When having a drink, rarely do Americans
PAGE 40 | MicroShiner.com
In fact, all of the ingredients
This may sound like a marketing gim-
Starting with the vodka: triple dis-
Summer 2014
< LEFT TOPO proprietor Scott Maitland describes the process used to create their award winning line of craft spirits.
IT IS IMPORTANT THAT WE DO SOMETHING ROOTED IN TRADITION, ROOTED IN ARTISANSHIP.
PAGE 44 | MicroShiner.com
Summer 2014
ity and care of the vodka can be tasted in
ing from the citrus, coriander, and cu-
everything you drink.
cumber has made this a welcome twist to
a standard gin and tonic.
At the distillery they have had many
converts (this author included) while com-
paring and contrasting the taste of TOPO
Whiskey; distilled and sold as a moon-
vodka against Tito’s (a well-respected
shine white whiskey, the TOPO flavor is
and established label in the industry).
anything but immature. It not only won
The TOPO spirit stood up against one of
Gold at the 2013 Craft Spirit Awards, but
the industry’s leaders, having a sense of
was also awarded the Silver medal by the
smooth sophistication that was full of va-
2013 San Francisco International Spirit
nilla notes, with none of the “burn” that
Competition
one would expect to encounter drinking
ing Institute of Chicago. While it is cur-
vodka neat at room temperature.
It’s
rently available only as a white whiskey,
this sublime profile that granted them
that isn’t to say that it was intended to
the Gold at the 2013 Craft Spirit awards,
be sold as “moonshine.” The depth of fla-
and 5 stars (the highest recommendation)
vors in this unaged whiskey is far from
from Spirit Journal’s F. Paul Pacult.
the artless contents one typically finds
in a mason jar.
The same base of this quality vodka
And finally there is the Carolina
and
The
Beverage
Tast-
(the “high wines”) is the base spirit for
the 2013 SIP Awards and 2014 Bever-
an idea that would allow the consumers
age Testing Institute Gold Medal-winning
to experience and taste their way through
Piedmont gin. The smooth depth of the
the aging process, by offering an “age
spirit enhances the light juniper flavor of
your own whiskey kit” and supplying
this easy-drinking gin. Described as an
the drinker with everything they would
American Contemporary Gin, the flavor-
need to create their very own aged spirit.
PAGE 46 | MicroShiner.com
With this in mind, Maitland birthed
Summer 2014
PAGE 50 | MicroShiner.com
Autumn Summer 2013 2014
Included is a 2 liter charred oak barrel,
farmers, food producers, and consum-
a spigot, and 3 bottles of TOPO’s Caro-
ers alike. It is in response to this crisis
lina Whiskey.
Due to the high volume
that North Carolina legislators authored
to surface area ratio of the small bar-
a bill that would allow commercial build-
rel, the aging process is greatly acceler-
ings to house bee colonies on their roofs
ated, creating a smooth wheat whiskey
to foster growth in the overall population.
in only 3 months while allowing the con-
Currently, the TOPO Bee Sanctuary is
sumer to taste test the spirit at any point
“cranking,” as Maitland puts it, creating
along the way.
a vast bee community on their roof. The
The idea behind TOPO is value added
epitome of sustainability and best practic-
production based on innovation, ground
es, TOPO is an organic experience, from
breaking ideas, and the reinvention of
grain to glass, and the only fully certified
quality. Keeping it local and organic, en-
organic distillery in the deep south.
couraging sustainable land usage while
creating a superior product; this is the
scheduled in advance, typically available
theme of the TOPO distillery.
Thursday and Friday – 6 pm and 7:30 pm,
And this
Tours are offered weekly but must be
theme is represented by not only the
and Saturday - 4 pm and 5:30 pm.
TOPO label, which illustrates the original
Chapel Hill church steeple, the ocean at
be found at most ABC stores in NC, but
the Outer Banks, the Piedmont farmland,
if you are somewhere outside of the North
and the Appalachian Mountains, but to
Carolina area and unable to make the
the distillery itself.
trip, TOPO also has the ability to ship,
In recent years, the honey bee pop-
not only their 750 mL bottles but also the
ulation has plummeted throughout the
“Age Your Own Whiskey Kit” and new 50
United States, largely from colony col-
mL bottles as well, to 43 states.
lapse disorder, creating a panic amongst
Bottles of Top of the Hill Spirits can
Find them at www.topodistillery.com
MicroShiner.com | PAGE 51
Life. Distilled. Vintage Hot Rod Races Pendine Sands, Wales UK LOWTECH - Marc Woltinger
CREATE DIE OR
MISSOULA, MONTANA Written by JACQUELYN DAVIS Photos by BRIAN JOHNSON
W
ith
hands
chapped
from
twenty-two years of carpentry work in Missoula, MT, Craig McCollum carefully cuts wood with a band saw, watching through protective yellow glasses as it begins to take shape. The sweet scent of sawdust floats in the air of McCollumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s garage, the birthplace of McCollum Custom Longboards. On a wall above the band saw are displayed several of his boards, which he first started creating four years ago, when his fourteen-year-old son sparked his interest in skateboarding.
Little did he know that when
he bought his son a longboard, it would one day lead to creating and selling his own.
ed by the need to find a less physically
demanding
profession
than
carpentry
dur-
ing
the
Montana
harsh winters,
McCollum
can determine
I REALLY LIKE BEING IN THE SHOP AND CREATING SOMETHING, HE SAYS.
the
difference
between ally
THAT’S WHAT DRIVES ME.
ing
visu-
appealand
not
visually
ap-
pealing.”
be-
H
e
gan his foray into the craft by copying
an old photo of a great blue heron, Craig
uses more than 120 species from around
the shape of his son’s longboard onto
decided that his favorite bird would be a
the world, of which he keeps thirty in
exotic wood. Soon, through social me-
better fit. “It shows flight, motion, grace,”
stock at any one time, including Cuban
dia sites, the compliments began to add
he says. “I feel like that’s what cruising on
mahogany, African mahogany, and wa-
up, and McCollum Custom Longboards
a longboard is like.”
terfall bubinga. The boards are coated in
was born.
aesthetics
Created primarily for transporta-
Not only the logo but also the of
McCollum’s
their
combination
clear grip, “to allow their beauty to be dis-
longboards
played.” McCollum invites customers to
of
tion, longboard setups are composed of
convey
motion
mix and match these wood species, cuts,
larger wheels and a softer compound than
and grace. In addition to their practi-
and finishes, allowing for endless combi-
those of standard skateboards, giving
cal use, some have also been sold as
nations. The countless options are what
them a smoother ride. On each board is
wall art. McCollum sums it up when he
continue to intrigue McCollum as he de-
the McCollum logo, a silhouette of a great
says, “I’m a woodworker. I didn’t want
signs and sells his product. “Every time I
blue heron. Craig explains why he chose
to hide the beauty of them. Why not just
put out a really beautiful board, I am so
this logo, instead of the tree silhouette he
make them beautiful?”
enthralled by the beauty of wood and the
had originally intended.
combinations that come together when
“I wanted to exemplify what I
essence of surfing that McCollum has al-
you’re mixing and matching.”
do to the T. I really thought a tree would
ways admired, the boards are designed in
embody what I’m trying to evoke in my
patterns reminiscent of the 1960’s. His
decks, priced between $200 and $300.
product. But every time, it looked like the
eye for beauty and attention to detail, de-
The farthest he has shipped a longboard
Arbor skateboard logo.”
veloped through a background in photog-
was to a customer in Australia, but he
Finding a logo that symbolized
raphy, is evident in the contrast he cre-
mainly sells within the United States.
McCollum’s connection to wood proved
ates between combinations of finishes and
On average, the process which includes
harder than imagined, but coming across
various cuts of wood. “One-fourth inch
cutting, gluing, finishing, and drying,
PAGE 60 | MicroShiner.com
Strikingly representative of the
McCollum
has
crafted
fifty
Summer 2014
PAGE 62 | MicroShiner.com
Summer 2014
PAGE 64 | MicroShiner.com
Summer 2014
takes about nine to ten days, five hours
Andy Lennox, another local woodwork-
product is not the only thing that sets
per day. The business has presented
er, he met Nick, a high-end furniture
it apart from others. Since his boards
McCollum with “endless hurdles,” in-
maker, who teaches him the process of
are custom-made, they are one-of-a-
cluding the need to be conscientious of
working with veneers in exchange for
kind; while other companies employ art-
every step, from sanding and gluing to
McCollum’s grandmother’s cookies. It
ists and might mass produce 4,000 of
cutting woods straight; it can be espe-
was Nick who introduced McCollum to
the same design, McCollum has yet to
cially easy to make mistakes working in
the veneer cutter and vacuum press, for
make any two boards the same. “Hope-
thin sheets of veneer.
example, enabling him to work much
fully people find it unique enough for it
Some specific board designs
more efficiently. He has also established
to take off. For someone looking for not
have also proved challenging, includ-
a partnership with another upstart Mis-
your average board,” he says, “mine are
ing a patchwork design consisting of
soula business, Strongwater Mountain
individual to the rider. Every piece of
perfect squares and a board inlaid with
Surf Company, for whom he designs
wood is different, so even if two boards
the Big Dipper Ice Cream logo - which
powder boards—directional snowboards
are made with the same pattern and
took three tries and is now displayed in
with surf stop pads and a leash in place
species, they will still be different.”
the iconic Missoula ice cream shop it-
of metal edges or P-Tex binding, rid-
self. McCollum describes his craft as a
den in a surfing position on five to six
McCollum has since grown passionate
learning process. “We’re all limited to
inches of snow.
for it. Before he began his business, his
our creativity, but we can all get inspi-
McCollum’s passion for surf-
response to his son’s invitation to ride
ration from other people’s designs.” For
ing, whether in snow or water, is closely
with him was, “I’m 42 years old. I’m
him, the joy of creating a work of art
linked to his love of longboarding. He
not gonna longboard. Are you crazy?”
makes the challenges that come with
compares “carving the streets” on a
Now, three years later, he and his son
the business worthwhile. “I really like
longboard to surfing—both, he says, are
often ride around downtown Missoula
being in the shop and creating some-
“crazy fun.” This passion reveals itself
together. His longboards continue to
thing,” he says. “That’s what drives me.”
in McCollum’s work: while other compa-
reflect his creativity and passion while
Once hesitant to longboard,
One way McCollum has learned
nies use solid exotic woods for the core
serving fellow longboarders’ personal-
to navigate such challenges is by build-
of their boards, he uses birch to en-
ized requests. “It’s fun to do, to see what
ing connections within the community,
hance the very “flow” of their movement
ideas customers come up with,” he says.
as when he began to work with veneers,
that he enjoys.
“It’s fun to ride.”
which he buys from New York. Through
PAGE 66 | MicroShiner.com
The
quality
of
McCollum’s
Summer 2014
^ ABOVE Craig McCollum enjoys a break from crafting longboards in his shop in Missoula, Montana.
PAGE 70 | MicroShiner.com
SPIRIT WORKS Written by Chrissy Cary Photography by Brian Cary
I
brain child of husband and wife team n California’s wine country, known for
Timo and Ashby Marshall and their dog
its rolling hills blanketed with grape vines,
Bandit, who the sculpture depicts. They
tourists come to visit the wine tasting fan-
have been championing the “KEEP IT
tasy land that is Napa and Sonoma, yet
LOCAL AND ORGANIC” artisan spirit
rarely venture off the beaten path to the
movement since Spirit Works’ conception
places where locals go to enjoy its incred-
in 2012. The couple met while working
ible bounty.
together with an environmental non-
Tucked away in northwest So-
profit organization aboard ice breakers.
noma County, approximately 52 mi north
With close quarters and small bunks,
of San Francisco, is a quaint town named
the two learned how to handle disagree-
Sebastopol.
With plenty of small-town
ments and maintain a functional work-
charm, Sebastopol is sustained by local
ing relationship while still making room
and regional commerce rather than na-
for
tional tourism.
romance.
Timo,
originally
from
It’s a town that wholly
southern England, grew up in a family
embraces the idea of “grow local, shop
where gin has been the drink of choice
local, consume local,” and it is no great
for generations.
surprise that an area like the Barlow
the West Coast, has always been drawn
District has developed.
to whiskey.
A
completely
revamped
area
Ashby, who hails from
The couple first considered join-
of warehouses showcasing the local ar-
ing forces with an established distillery.
tisans of food, art, wine, and beer, the
The idea was to focus on their specialty
Barlow District allows the creators an
spirit, Sloe Gin, but they were disappoint-
avenue to connect directly with their
ed to discover that many of the potential
consumers.
Following this logical pro-
distilleries would simply import the base
gression, it only stands to reason that
neutral spirits, and then blend the botani-
Sebastopol’s Barlow District would be
cals together before bottling them as their
the perfect place to find one of the few
own. Discouraged by the idea of partner-
local organic grain-to-glass distilleries in
ing with such a process, Timo and Ashby
the state:
The
were determined to create something of
warehouse is easily identifiable by a 10
their very own, inspiring them to take on
foot sculpture of Bandit the Boston ter-
distillation themselves and do it the way
rier riding a surf board, made entirely out
they felt it should be done.
of
4 years traveling to different distilleries,
Spirit Works Distillery.
recycled
material
by
local
They spent
artist Patrick Amiot.
learning and apprenticing under master
distillers, discovering their own identity
Spirit Works Distillery is the
PAGE 72 | MicroShiner.com
and distinctive taste through distillation.
At it’s the infancy, the difficulty
to pour up to 6 products for tasting while
Thus Spirit Works was created.
of opening a distillery wasn’t in the cre-
maintaining the right to sell product on
into
ation, but rather the California rules and
site.
place. Ashby was to be master distill-
regulations. In a state where grape is king,
pursuing the necessary permits and certi-
er, having the natural intuition that no
grain distillers have extra hurdles to jump
fications to begin distilling.
amount of studying could provide. Timo
through in order to take their products
would work on the other aspects of the
to market. Grain distilleries are allowed
cation in an area of Sebastopol’s Bar-
business; recently, he was offered a posi-
to offer tastings of their product on site,
low District that was primed to grow
tion on a panel at the Craft Beer, Spirits
but they are not allowed to sell direct and
into
and Wine Conference held in Santa Rosa,
must instead work through a private dis-
ing that of New York’s SoHo or Miami’s
discussing laws that effect spirit sales
tributor; whereas those who distill brandy
Wynwood. At the time, the Barlow district
in California.
from grapes and other wines are allowed
was being retrofitted to house breweries,
The
roles
naturally
PAGE 78 | MicroShiner.com
fell
However, the couple soldiered on,
In 2012, the couple found a lo-
a
local
specialty
area,
mimick-
Summer 2014 RIGHT > Spirit Worksâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Head Distiller Ashby Marshall (right) with her husband & business partner Timo (left) in front of their Carl still.
PAGE 80 | MicroShiner.com
Summer 2014
tasting rooms, art galleries and celebrity
the
restaurants. Hammers in hand, the Mar-
brandy; they only know the Captain Mor-
shalls went to work, and with the help of
gans,” Timo says, raising a leg to strike a
Romy Colombatto, their marketing man-
pose. That need for education has been
ager, renovated the warehouse to meet
the prime objective in offering a full view
the manufacturing needs and began as-
and tours, tutoring the public on the finer
sembling their custom CARL still. The
points of craft distillation.
still was fabricated specifically for the
Spirit Works distillery; built as a hybrid,
the still became operational, and Recipe
it stands 26 feet tall and is the capable of
and Development was underway.
producing vodka, whiskey, and gin.
six months of the still running, the Spirit
Works family finally decided on a recipe
If you were to stand underneath
difference
between
whiskey
and
It was in December 2012 that After
the shadow of the copper tower that is
for their gin that would balance the juni-
the still, you would be able to glance over
per flavor of the traditional dry London gin
your shoulder and see right into the tast-
from Timo’s home in the UK and the mild
ing room window. While drafting the lay-
flavors of its American counterpart, creat-
out of the space, the idea was to give the
ing a self-described “Mid-Atlantic Gin.”
viewer the chance to see Ashby working
her magic on the giant copper still. This
selves, let’s take a step back to the base
design choice was intentional, meant to
spirit of their flag ship gin, to see the care
offer the whole process to the consumer
that goes into the neutral spirit, vodka.
without smoke or mirrors. Enthusiasts
As stated above, the still stands at 26
may also participate in complete tours of
feet tall, one of the tallest in California
the distillery, offered each Friday, Satur-
(to their knowledge), and runs 21 bubble
day, and Sunday, to get an even closer
plates. This allows for distilling their Cali-
look at what goes into the process.
fornia red winter wheat vodka in a single
run, versus multiple runs from other
“[Most consumers] don’t know
PAGE 84 | MicroShiner.com
But before we get ahead of our-
They have been championing the
“KEEP IT LOCAL AND ORGANIC” artisan spirit movement since Spirit Works’ inception
Summer 2014
PAGE 86 | MicroShiner.com
Summer 2014
distilleries. The single run allows the spir-
for this spirit that has led them to what
next big cocktail, and is taking the place
it to maintain some wheat characteristics
he describes as the pinnacle of balance; a
of other, more common additions such as
in its base mash, softening the flavor and
gin where all the flavors work in harmony
sweet vermouth.
taking away the burn that is associated
without one overpowering the others. “If
with the competitors who completely strip
you want to find the coriander, you can.
of the current Spirit Works product line.
the spirit. The vodka at 43% ABV holds
But it isn’t a coriander gin!” While in the
Soon to join the ranks are the highly an-
an almost pure and creamy flavor; these
tasting room, you have the opportunity to
ticipated Wheat Whiskey and Rye. Spirit
qualities are then transferred to the gin as
see each of these flavors. Each individual
Works’ whiskey has been developed with
another aspect in its flavor profile.
botanical is set out on the table for the
the same standard of quality and focus,
Spirit Works Gin is not a back
taster to see, smell and feel, creating a
keeping it organic and local. With a whis-
blended spirit. Rather, it is a completely
more vibrant tasting experience, and al-
key waitlist already in place, the peppery
original flavor, one that can’t be replicat-
lowing for a more specific flavor profile.
Rye and sweeter Wheat Whiskey, created
ed due to the in-house manufacturing of
Which brings us to Spirit Works’
from organic Northern California red win-
their base spirit. With the characteristics
Sloe Gin, known as a traditional British
ter wheat, are currently resting in charred
of the vodka binding with the flavors of the
digestif; it is a sweet maceration of sloe
oak barrels and should be ready to drink
orris root, the gin is a balance of dry pine
berries in the already remarkable gin.
in 2015.
flavor from the juniper and a sweet floral
With uses from fabric dye to jam, sloe ber-
compliment, flawlessly derived from eight
ries are readily available in the UK but
little distillery that could, as it builds on
choice botanicals. Each botanical has its
more difficult to source here in the US,
the momentum of a strong regional fan
own boiling point, and over the 6 months
because of their invasive nature; the blue
base and community support. In crafting
of flavor development, Ashby was able to
berry sized fruit is a relative of the plum.
their own distinct vision, and remaining
determine the point of best performance
Timo grew up foraging for these berries
committed to the key tenets of local and
for each. The spiced aspect of the gin is
in his neighborhood and now is import-
organic production, Spirit Works has po-
due to the use of cardamom and corian-
ing them in larger quantities to create his
sitioned itself at the forefront of Califor-
der. The angelica, orris root and iris are
comfort food. It begins with Spirit Works’
nia’s evolving spirit landscape, adding yet
responsible for the grassy, earthy notes.
handcrafted gin; they then add whole sloe
another notable stop to Sonoma County’s
The lemon is zested the day of production,
berries and cane sugar to allow for direct
already impressive epicurean roadmap.
adding a fresh citrus flavor. A hint of hi-
maceration in creating the sweet liqueur,
biscus can also be tasted, softening the
a recipe that has been in Timo’s family
final product.
for generations.
When asked why so much focus
This unique flavor combination
on the spirit gin, Timo replies: “I love it.
is in high demand, particularly with local
I’m obsessed with gin.” It’s his passion
bartenders who are looking to create the
PAGE 88 | MicroShiner.com
These three spirits are the heart
The future looks bright for this
Find them at www.spiritworks.com
Summer 2014
This meal was prepared by Bob and Beth Fischer, around a bottle of Whistling Andyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hopschnop. The meal consisted of three courses: pork belly and panko potatoes; halibut and rice; and cheesecake. Our first two courses were served with Hopschnop neat, accompanied by a bottle of red wine during the second course. For dessert, we retired to the Fischerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s farmhouse to watch the World Cup. We enjoyed an after dinner cocktail then cheesecake was served with a warm sweet drink. Bob and Beth Fischer work, play, and eat well in Hamilton, Montana.
PAGE 90 | MicroShiner.com |
Summer 2014
Pairings: WHISTLING ANDY HOPSCHNOP
Photos by Beth Fischer
BALSAMIC GLAZED PORK BELLY Ingredients 1 lb
PORK BELLY
1 Cup
BALSAMIC VINEGAR
2 Teaspoons
SOY SAUCE
1 Clove
GARLIC
PAGE 92 | MicroShiner.com |
Summer 2014
Directions
1. 2. 3. 4.
Cut pork belly into 1” x 1” x 3” cubes. Combine other 3 ingredients. Simmer on low for 10 min in a heavy frying pan. Add pork belly and continue to simmer. Cook pork for about 5 minutes on each side. Be careful not to let the vinegar mixture burn or caramelize completely.
WASABI-DUSTED PANKO POTATOES
PAGE 94 | MicroShiner.com |
Summer 2014
Ingredients 6
POTATOES
1 Cup
FLOUR
1 Teaspoon
WASABI POWDER
To Taste
SALT and PEPPER
1
EGG
1 Cup
PANKO BREADCRUMBS
As Needed
OIL for frying
Directions
1.
Parboil the potatoes until
4.
Dredge the potato cubes
just soft enough to pierce
in the flower, dip into the
them with a fork.
beaten egg then coat with
2.
Drain, cool and cut the potatoes into 1” X 1” X 3”
3.
cubes. Mix the flour, wasabi powder, salt and pepper in a bowl. In another bowl beat the egg. Have the Panko breadcrumbs in a third bowl.
breadcrumbs.
5.
Fry in 2” of hot oil until golden brown.
WOOLY BUGGER Ingredients 2 Jiggers
WHISTLING ANDY HOPSCHNOP
1 Jigger
SPICED RUM
1 Teaspoon
TAMARIND SIMPLE SYRUP
Garnish
MARASCHINO CHERRY
Directions
1.
Mix the Hopschnop and simple syrup in a microwave safe container and microwave for 30 sec
2.
to get it warm. Drizzle the molasses into a cocktail glass, pour in the warmed Hopschnop and simple syrup and top with milk foam.
3.
Garnish with a cinnamon stick.
PAGE 96 | MicroShiner.com |
Summer 2014
TAMARIND SIMPLE SYRUP Ingredients 1 Cup
WATER
1 Cup
SPICED RUM
1 Tablespoon
TAMARIND PASTE
Directions
1.
In a small sauce pan combine the water and sugar and heat until it starts to boil.
2.
Turn down the heat to a slow simmer and add the tamarind paste.
3.
Allow to simmer for about 15 minutes then strain into a jar and cool.
HALIBUT WITH PLUM GLAZE We had the luxury of halibut brought direct from Alaska, courtesy of one of the dinner guests. Grill using charcoal, if possible, along with your favorite variety of smoking chips.
Ingredients 2 lbs
HALIBUT FILLETS, with skin on one side
2
BLACK PLUMS, large & ripe
1 Cup
DRY WHITE WINE
1/2 Cup
GINGER BEER
1 Tablespoon
SOY SAUCE
1 Clove
GARLIC, pressed
PAGE 98 | MicroShiner.com |
Summer 2014
Directions
1.
In a heavy sauce pan simmer the cut up plums in the white wine for 10 minutes. Press the plum and wine mixture through
4.
Add a handful of soaked wood chips to the coals and
a sieve to remove the skins
bring the coals as close
and pulp. Return the liquid
to the grilling surface as
to the sauce pan and add
possible.
the garlic and ginger beer. Simmer 10 min and add the
2. 3.
soy sauce. In the meantime coat the
5.
Place the fillets on the grill skin-side down and close
skin side of the halibut
the grill. Cook for 5 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 7
with hazelnut oil and cut
min then remove the fish
into 6 serving sized pieces.
from the grill and serve.
When the sauce has thickened, brush the flesh side of the fillet with a coat of sauce. Let rest 5 min and repeat with a second coating of sauce.
MIXED AND WILD RICE Serve the fish and rice with miso paste, steamed baby bok choy and or asparagus.
PAGE 100 | MicroShiner.com |
Summer 2014
Ingredients 1 Cup
MIXED and WILD RICE
1 Bunch
GREEN ONIONS, green and white parts, sliced
1 Teaspoon
GINGER, minced
½
RED PEPPER, finely diced
1 Clove
GARLIC, minced
1 Tablespoon
PEANUT OIL
1 Tablespoon
RICE WINE VINEGAR
1 ½ Teaspoon
MIRIN
Directions
1.
In a medium sauce pan
3.
Cover the pan and bring
briefly sauté the ginger,
the water to a boil then
garlic and the white part
turn down the heat until
of the green onion in
you achieve a low simmer.
the peanut oil, about 1
2.
minute. Add the red pepper and rice, give it a quick stir before adding water to the pan until it rises ½ inch above the level of the rice.
5.
When the rice is done fold in the green part of the green onion, mirin and rice vinegar.
4.
Simmer for 20 minutes or until the rice is done.
GRANDMAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MOLASSES COOKIE Ingredients 2 Jiggers
WHISTLING ANDY HOPSCHNOP
2 Jiggers
EXTRA GINGER SIMPLE SYRUP
1 Teaspoon
BLACKSTRAP MOLASSAS
As Needed
MILK FOAM
Directions
1.
Mix the Hopschnop and simple syrup in a microwave safe container and microwave for 30 sec
2.
to get it warm. Drizzle the molasses into a cocktail glass, pour in the warmed Hopschnop and simple syrup and top with milk foam.
3.
Garnish with a cinnamon stick.
PAGE 102 | MicroShiner.com |
Summer 2014
EXTRA GINGER SIMPLE SYRUP Ingredients 1 Cup
WATER
1 Cup
SUGAR
1 Cup
GINGER, freshly sliced
1 Whole
VANILLA BEAN
Directions
1.
In a small sauce pan combine the water and sugar and heat until it starts to boil. Turn down the heat to a slow simmer
2.
and add the ginger. Add the vanilla bean by slicing it lengthwise and scraping the seeds into the sugar water then adding the rest of the pod.
3.
Allow to simmer for about 15 minutes then strain into a jar and cool.
Life. Distilled. Going to the Sun Highway Glacier National Park, Montana USA McCollum Custom Longboards
ISLAND DISTILLERS Written by
Photos by
Misty Cordeiro
Brian Cary
O
n the tropical island of Oahu sits
Island Distillers, a single-still, vodka and
Hawaiian
moonshine
distillery.
Dave Flintstone, the owner, distiller, and mastermind operation
is
behind
this
originally
small-batch
from
Florida.
He has lived in Hawaii, off and on, since the late 1980’s - making him no stranger to the island lifestyle. He is dressed in board shorts and slippers (known as
flip-flops
welcomes
us
to and
Mainlanders). jokingly
Dave
remarks,
“You’re lucky I put on a shirt today.”
PAGE 108 | MicroShiner.com
Summer 2014
His easy-going, fun nature al-
limited parking and his irregular hours,
Not one to let reality inhibit his dreams,
ready shines through, despite the ear-
he turns away requests for tastings and
Dave excitedly fantasizes about farming
ly start of our 8:00 a.m. meeting. As Ha-
tours. Currently, Island Distillers’ prod-
his own ingredients and planting fruit
waiian music plays in the background,
ucts are distributed only in Hawaii; how-
trees to make brandies.
he explains that his one-man army will
ever, their spirits may be purchased on-
expand in a couple hours. He has two em-
line from the company’s Facebook page.
land at this point seems unlikely, Dave is
ployees coming to help bottle a batch of
He relishes the idea of operat-
planning to relocate his operation into the
coconut vodka.
ing on agricultural land, but laments
Hawaii Kai area. The new location will op-
Although obtaining agricultural
We move into the center of the
the price of living in paradise, “It would
erate on solar power and feature a much-
space, and Dave excitedly points out his
be nice if I could locate on ag(ricultural)
anticipated tasting room. He also plans
water filtration system. “People say ‘what
land, but of course land on the islands is
to expand his product line. He has four
kind of water do you use? Where is your
expensive and owned by large families.”
rums planned for future release: a dark
water from?’” Answering his own proposed question, he jokes, “It comes from the sky, where does everyone’s water come from?”
He continues explaining that
the majority of water on the islands is from aquifers. In order for the water to be moved through the pipes, chlorine is added. The first step in his process is to remove the chlorine. Other minerals are then stripped out before softening the water.
Within the small space of the
distillery there is no real division, instantly drawing your eye to the copper still sitting just off center. Dave obtained the “standard little pot” several years ago from Portugal; and though the bond with his current still is unbreakable because of the nostalgia, you can sense his enthusiasm as he talks about the three new and highly anticipated stills. Two are en-route while the third is currently being fabricated in Europe. He spent over a year designing and developing the third one. Recirculating coolant, batch continuous, electric, energy efficient, and computerized are all descriptors for its exciting new features. Dave’s concluding sentiments: “its way cool!” With new siblings on the way, one need not fear for the “standard little pot.” It won’t enter retirement, but will be used for small-batch productions such as fruit brandies.
Dave does all the fermenting and
distilling at his current location. “I have a pretty small operation and a small volume. I sell everything I make, but I don’t make that much.” Though “very compact,” Dave makes good use of this space, storing his finished product in another warehouse. Unfortunately, because of
PAGE 110 | MicroShiner.com
Summer 2014
It is the quality of life, not the quantity of life. In Hawaii, that is important - the quality of life here. We do not have the general rat race like the mainland. It is not what you do for a living here, it’s the living that you do that’s important.
Workers on the bottling line at the Island Distillers prodcution faciility.
rum, white rum, spiced rum, and an old
nut, Dave toyed with pineapple and lilikoi
Cajun rum. “I’m very excited about the
(passion fruit) flavors. The task proved
rums, because I really like rum. I really
difficult. The color and taste would slow-
like the packaging for it, too.”
ly decline, and while they all tasted “so
The labels and packaging for all
good,” ultimately Dave could not obtain
his products have been a labor of love.
shelf stability. Once he moves to the new
With help from local graphic artists and
location, however, he hopes to produce
countless hours of time, Dave perfected
these flavors in small batches for immedi-
his signature looks. Though not officially
ate consumption - fresh from the still.
on the market, his white rum boasts the
longest-worded liquor label in the world.
tillers’ three spirits is the Okolehao (pro-
He laughs as he predicts a scenario, “I re-
nounced o-ko-lay-how). Dave attributes
ally like this because it makes me chuckle
much of its success to its unique compo-
every time I see it. I can just picture peo-
sition. The two main ingredients are ti root
ple looking at it in the stores. ‘Honey, hum
and sugar cane. Dave imports his ti root
ma na hum ma na. Let’s get the hum ma
from the Big Island. Ti plant roots, which
na rum!” Unfortunately, none of the pro-
can range from ten to fifteen pounds per
posed rum was available to sample. Dave
plant, are then shredded for the process.
playfully disclosed, “I drank all of the rum
that I had.”
for about four years. It is where he devel-
The best seller among Island Dis-
Dave called the Big Island home
Island Distillers currently has
oped the lava filtration system he uses for
three spirits on the market - all distilled
his spirits. It took several attempts before
from sugar cane: a straight vodka, a co-
he finally locked down the process, but
conut vodka, and an Okolehao, which is
the time invested was well worth it. “I fig-
also known as Hawaiian moonshine. The
ured out a way to get away from granular
coconut vodka uses the straight vodka as
activated carbon that everyone else uses,”
its base and is blended down from 40%
he gleams. ‘Okole’ is the Hawaiian word
to 35% to allow the coconut flavor to
for butt and ‘hao’ means iron. These two
come through. When pressed as to how
words may seem an unlikely pair, but “the
the coconut flavoring is achieved, Dave
myth goes, that it was named after old
drops his exuberance to a serious tone.
whaling ships... whether they are refer-
“Very, very carefully,” he says. “It took
ring to the bottom of the pot or to what
about a year and a half to get the flavor
two pots, side-by-side look like... Hawai-
that I wanted. I wanted a nice, fresh co-
ians back then were very big on word play,
conut flavor - not this horrible candied
and especially in referencing parts of the
type thing that I tasted everywhere.” Dave
body. So, it’s probably true.”
collected local coconuts to conduct ex-
periments, and eventually developed an
digenous distilled spirit from Hawaii. An
extract. He describes it as an essential oil
English sailor first recorded its existence
process, which embodies the aromas and
during the 1770’s. After seeing the Ha-
flavors perfectly, and then is blended into
waiians bake ti root, the sailor realized it
his vodka.
could be fermented to make beer. Relat-
He quickly realized the need for
ing the story, Flintstone laughs as he con-
larger quantities of both extract and co-
siders this bit of history, “The Hawaiian’s
conuts. Hawaii does not commercially
never had an alcoholic beverage? How can
produce the fruit, as most of the coconuts
this be possible with all the fruit around?
come from either Thailand or the Philip-
Very odd.” As implausible as it may seem,
RIGHT pines. >Dave contracted with a mainland
the story continues that twenty years lat-
company to replicate his extract formula
er an Australian introduced the distilla-
on a large scale. After three attempts, it
tion process and Okolehao was born. With
was finally successful.
moonshine’s growth in popularity over the
Originally,
he
wanted
Okolehao is the only known in-
more
last few years, Dave only wishes he could
tropical flavors and in addition to coco-
have been ahead of the curve. “It took a
while to figure out what I think it would have tasted like back then and to perfect it. Now, I think I got it. It’s fantastic.”
The idea of opening a distillery
came about 14 years ago. Dave had been living on Maui, but frequently found work in the Caribbean, where a love for quality spirits sparked while sipping Barbancourt Rhum in Haiti. Despite having tended bar for a number of years before what he terms the “cocktail renaissance,” he had never tasted such good rum, served on ice with only a squeeze of lime. Working for a cruise company as a certified dive instructor, the ships only came into port twice a week - leaving him with a lot of free time on his hands. Dave traveled to little towns learning about the distillation process: “I found all these distillers. Sometimes just a dude in a shack. Some a little bit bigger. They were making what they call ‘clairin,’ which is a moonshine product; some selling high strength up to 180 proof and some blending it down to 40 or 50.” It was akin to an unpaid internship; which did not bother him in his pursuit of learning the trade. From going out with his machete to chop down sugar cane or watching farm animals walk in circles to crush product.
It was years later that his idea
to open a distillery came to fruition. Dave was in the construction business and building houses on the Big Island when the housing market crashed. He knew it was time to pursue the dream lingering in the back of his mind. His first choice for opening a distillery in Hawaii was Maui the island he had lived on the longest. “I knew how to make everything, that was the easy part. The hard part was traversing the bureaucracy.” Meeting with little success on Maui, he made one phone call to Oahu and was a plane the next day to start his distillery.
After about a year and a half,
Dave’s dream finally materialized. During his recollections he laughs, “I was broke for a long time. It was ridiculous. So many costly errors. Like everyone says, ‘If I knew then, what I know now’.”
After “talking story” (the Hawai-
ian-islands’ tradition of sharing stories),
PAGE 114 | MicroShiner.com
Summer 2014 coconut flavored spirit I have ever tasted. Sipping it immediately transports one to a tropical island. The accompanying cocktail Dave whipped up is the HawaiianColada, consisting of coconut vodka and pineapple juice. He takes a swig and concludes, “Very simple. Very tasty.” It is the truth. The recipe may be simple, but it is delicious.
While the unique taste of the
Okolehao is a worthy contender, my heart favors the scrumptious coconut vodka. As we sat sipping various cocktails and Dave led us over to his handmade bar and
straight liquors, Dave entertained us with
the awaiting spirits, explaining; “I wanted
animated responses to typical questions
to make a vodka that was smooth enough
he has encountered: “People ask, how
to drink at room temperature in Hawaii.”
many times do you distill? Well, how many
Starting with the 80 proof vodka, he test-
times do you shower a day? What differ-
ed his vodka, many times, against com-
ence does it make? Then they talk about
petitors. He laughs as he recalls peoples’
how many times it was filtered. Couldn’t
reactions during taste testing. “Tasting
you do it right the first couple of times?
vodka is an odd thing because very few
It took you nine times! And then you get
people drink straight vodka.” His ultimate
the weird ones... 22...25... Ok, whatever
goal was to beat Tito’s, a small-batch pot-
works for you.”
distilled vodka from Texas. “When I con-
sistently had my vodka chosen over Tito’s,
two bottlers walk through the door. While
I knew I had finished.”
we continued our tastings, Dave joined
Next, we tasted the much-antici-
them in the bottling process. Forming
pated Okolehao. Dave describes the taste
a mini-assembly line in the corner, he
as “surprisingly smooth.” Proofed at 100,
manned the heat gun at the end of the line
I would have to agree. Both the aroma and
- sealing each bottle before packing and
taste contain floral notes reminiscent of
taping the boxes. Case after case stacked
the flowers one finds on the Islands and
up. It takes about eight hours to bottle
the tropical flavors that make this region
the 550 gallons or 230 cases of coconut
unique. Its taste is complex - like a gin,
vodka. Dave periodically stepped away to
yet finishes like a softer, sweet sipping,
check on us. Each time, he slid behind
rum. With such distinct characteristics, it
the bar and quickly concocted a different
is a spirit unlike any other.
specialty drink for us to try before hurry-
ing back to his end of the assembly line.
As Dave shows us the beautiful
At ten o’clock on the dot, Dave’s
Okolehao bottle, he jestingly mentions,
“I put the ingredients and recipe on the
ha. His passion for distilling liquor and
back of the bottle.” A turn of the bottle re-
his love for the islands is quite evident in
veals several lines of text, all in Hawaiian.
his final thoughts: “People ask me all the
He smiles, “not really, it’s just a little sto-
time, what’s your exit strategy?” There is
ry.” A neck hanger on the bottle provides
no exit until I can no longer make [the li-
a translation, along with several signature
quor]. It is the quality of life not the quan-
cocktail recipes. His favorite drink using
tity of life. In Hawaii, that is important
the moonshine is called Hawaiian soda,
- the quality of life here. We do not have
which is a simple twist on the classic vod-
the general rat race like the mainland. It
ka soda. “Lime, soda, and moonshine,” he
is not what you do for a living here, it’s
proclaims. “I like it so much.”
the living that you do that’s important.
The coconut vodka is bottled at
And as long as I can live here and enjoy
70 proof and embodies a wonderful fla-
myself and make something other people
vor. It is the most natural and authentic
enjoy as much as I do, it’s great.”
Dave embodies the spirit of Alo-
PAGE 116 | MicroShiner.com Âť Photo by Vincent Buckley
Missoula, Montana www.HurrocaneClothing.com