Another gem from Brooklyn: VAN BRUNT STILLHOUSE
MicroShiner Autumn 2013
Definitive Guide to the World of Craft Spirits
The
WYOMING WHISKEY BARONS
OLD NEW ORLEANS RUM
USED OAK BARREL ARTISAN
Distillery in the Rough
A Repurposed Life
SPIRIT REVIEW Craft Destinations & Events AUTUMN 2013
$10.99 US/CAN
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PAGE 4 | MicroShiner.com Âť Photo by Vincent Buckley
Missoula, Montana www.HurrocaneClothing.com
contents Letter From the Publisher Drinking Music Spirit Review—Better Days Bourbon Craft Destinations—Writers’ Fall Opus Craft Events—Independent Spirits Expo Crafting Cocktails—Bartender Interview Distillery Highlight—Charbay Winery & Distillery Distillery in the Rough—Old New Orleans Rum Van Brunt Stillhouse—History & Spirits in Red Hook, Brooklyn The Wyoming Whiskey Barons Pairings - Wyoming Whiskey A Repurposed Life
autumn
2013 11 12 16 18 20 25 26 31 47 66 82 93
Publisher Design Director Staff Contributors
Staff Photographers
Cobey Williamson Alex Vitti Nels Wroe Marisa Lyon Kimberly Naslund Jeff Mattson Luc Nadeau Michael Marquand Brian Cary
Event Marketing
Ryan Murphy
Webmaster
Kelsey Binder
Contributing Writers
Contributing Photographers
Patrick Romanowski Chrissy Cary Kimberly Bell Nicholas Matsas Vincent Buckley Working Dog Media, LLC 1406 Summerdale Rd Corvallis, MT 59828
Š2013 All rights reserved. The contents of this magazine cannot be duplicated without the prior written consent of the owner. The views contained within the contents of MicroShiner Magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of its owners or staff.
Cover Photo by Luc Nadeau, Inside Cover & Contents Photos by Michael Marquand
Photo by Michael Marquand ÂŤ MicroShiner.com | PAGE 9
Letter from the Publisher
PAGE 10 | MicroShiner.com Âť Photo by Vincent Buckley
Letter from the
PUBLISHER
How I came to learn about craft spirits was on a business trip to Bozeman. I was in town for a meeting and had made arrangements afterward to meet up with a good friend who teaches at Montana State University. We met at Bacchus, an aptly named pub downtown. Bozeman is decidedly New West, with healthy doses of college and ski infused into the heart of this traditionally cow town, and its large tracts, stunning vistas, and autonomic spirit have imbued it with a surprising degree of affluence for such a small city. What better place to start a whiskey distillery? I have long been a fan of craft. Living in Montana, it’s easy to be. Traveling between my home and work alone, I pass seven microbreweries and two distilleries, Swanson’s and Montgomery. In the West, micro just makes sense. Transportation routes are long, essential ingredients readily available, and most importantly, the customer base is both thirsty and receptive. Couple these qualities with a Westerners natural tendency toward individualism and the large flocks of tourists looking to try something regional and new, and you have the perfect recipe for a handcrafted success story.
Funny thing is, craft is nothing new. In fact, it used to be the rule, not the exception, and it was in the East, not the West, where one could find a distiller, brewer, or cider maker operating in every town. As our contributor Marisa Lyon points out in her piece on Van Brunt Stillhouse, New York City in the 1800s boasted dozens of distilleries, plying the town with a variety of spirits until a combination of economic factors and Prohibition reduced that number essentially to zero. Fortunately for us, we are in the dawn of a new era of craft, and not only of spirits. Hand wrought products of every kind are on the rise, and often at levels of quality that are more aligned with bespoke than your grandmother’s Christmas bazaar. From handmade furniture to artisan soaps and chocolates, individual character and regional flavor are more readily available than any time in recent memory. “What is this?” I asked the waitress as we settled onto our stools at Bacchus, pointing to a cardstock flyer in the center of our table emblazoned with the words Rough Stock Whiskey - Bozeman, MT. “Do they actually make this here?” One sip was all it took. MicroShiner was born. Cobey Williamson Publisher
DRINKING MUSIC
By Jeff Mattson
Drinking Music Seattle | London | Fort Collins Music and spirits are inextricably intertwined. Whether it’s the
purpose than sheer enjoyment.
rat pack & martinis, the jazz age and bathtub gin, saloon whis-
key and a player piano, or just pickin’ on the porch with a jar
awash with corporate product. Artists are groomed and se-
of shine, where you find one, you will likely find the other. So
lected based on one thing: their ability to sell records. All of
many analogies exist between the two that we felt, as a maga-
the coarseness and irregularity is eliminated, and much of
zine about craft and spirits, inclined – nay almost obliged – to
the nuance and the intangible lost. To paraphrase Neil Young
dedicate some space to music.
at the onset of the digital age, the real music lives between
the 0 and 1.
Music is a craft. Doing it well depends on bringing a
Just as it is in the spirits business, the music market is
number of elements together in just the right proportions,
In that regard, and in keeping with the theme of this pub-
and as with crafting spirits the resultant product is al-
lication, what we hope to offer you here is that space between
ways greater than the sum of its parts. Differences in equip-
the step and the curve that is so important, yet often goes over-
ment, training, ingredients, recipes are reflected in subtle,
looked. Here we hope to share some bands and music that you
and sometimes not so subtle, variations in character, flavor,
might just find playing onstage in your local tasting room or
tenor, and tone. Each begins with a handful of raw material
watering hole. Here, as with the micro-distilleries we focus on,
that, through a practiced and perfected process, culminates
you just might happen upon someone you know, and together
in a refined and handcrafted product, often for no greater
enjoy a little drinking music.
These Arms Are Snakes
Tail Swallower and Dove (A Retrospective Exploration)
Coming alive in 2002 after the break-up of Seattle hardcore heroes Botch, Minneapolis native Kill Sadie, and Seattle heavyweights Nineironspitfire, the band These Arms Are Snakes formed and would ultimately become frontrunners of what would be referred to as the Seattle Sound Revolution, which encompassed the greater Seattle area in the 2000’s. They featured Steve Snere
dazed and exhausted. These
absolutely dominating album
tains”, a leviathan that dives
on vocals, Brian Cook on
Arms Are Snakes truly left
opener “Woolen Heirs”, where
at dusk and charges straight
bass and keyboards, R yan
an impression on me in the
we hear Brian Cook and Ryan
into the night. “I am cow, I am
Frederiksen on guit a r, a n d
form of the most fun I’ve had
Frederiksen deliver crushing
sheep, I am strung up horse
C h r i s C o m m o n on drums.
at a concert, as well as inspi-
blow after crushing blow un-
meat,” Steve preaches, as the
rational muse to countless
til finally breaking away from
song begins its steady trek
became the epitome of what it
These Arms Are Snakes
art projects.
the layers of bass and guitar
into the zenith which comes
meant to be classified as the
Their final studio album,
distortion into a lush forest
as a soul crushing blast after
new Seattle sound, expanding
before finally parting ways,
of synthesizer keyboards and
worlds of delay ridden guitar
on grunge, taking the heavier
was entitled “Tail Swallower
disembodied modulated vo-
plateaus and bass have tied
elements from hardcore, bor-
and Dove”, released in 2008
cals. This work is a true re-
one into a frenzy of passion
rowing only the more interest-
on Suicide Squeeze Records.
finement of their sound. Lead
and delirium.
ing sounds of experimental
Crammed heavy with the best
vocalist Steve Snere mumbles,
rock, they created a sound
parts of previous albums, the
snarls, howls, and manipu-
check out something you may
that was brutal with passion
long drawn out post-rock in-
lates his way through the di-
have missed, a sound from
and innovation. They became
fluenced tracks like “Briggs”
vine clash of sinisterly heavy
a time and a genre that are
known for their wild and un-
and “Ethric Double”, synthe-
bass and crumbling guitar.
less part of the hip musical
relenting
sizer led experimental pow-
My favorite track on the al-
spotlight these days with the
erhouse
bum is entitled “Seven Cur-
popularity
live
performances
that left anyone in attendance
PAGE 12 | MicroShiner.com
“Lucifer”,
and
the
This is a call for you to
of
dubstep
and
Autumn 2013
neo-soul. We are left some of
tle Sound Revolution” bands
the energy that These Arms
to check out if you’re inter-
Are Snakes were known for,
ested: The Fall of Troy (dis-
however, in the form of the
banded), The Blood Brothers
former members’ newer proj-
(disbanded), Minus the Bear
ects: instrumental rock band
(active), Crystal Skulls (ac-
Russian Circles features Brian
tive), Akimbo (inactive), Mon
Cook on bass; the hardcore
Frere (disbanded), and Pretty
band Narrows finds guitar-
Girls Make Graves (disbanded)
ist Ryan Frederiksen teamed
among countless others.
up with former Botch vocalist
Dave Verellen. And finally the
on the heavier side of the
experimental electronic group
rock spectrum. These Arms
Crypts features Steve Snere
Are Snakes will certainly give
on vocals.
you a punch, best paired with
rum. Enjoy nostalgically.
Other noteworthy “Seat-
But be warned, this falls
DRINKING MUSIC
These New Puritans
Field of Reeds
These New Puritans are a band from London consisting of twin brothers, Jack Barnett (vocalist, multi-instrumentalist, producer) and George Barnett (loops, drums), as well as Thomas Hein (bass, drums, samples, and keys). The best descriptor I could give as to what this band sounds like is chamber rock, in a low key sense. And even as I type these words, I know I’m way off base. These guys are a genre all
hushed and drawling quality
In the track “Organ Exter-
plenty of classical influence to
their own, and each subse-
of the album. Winds and brass
nal”, true to its namesake, syn-
lend it atmosphere; there even
quent
sounded
rise out of layers of fantastical
thesizer organs swirl around
appear beeps and blips that
drastically different than the
daze. Indiscernible, slightly
your psyche, whirling high into
sound oddly similar to Morse
rest. It seems theirs is an in-
harmonious voices float over
a vortex, streaked with human-
code, thus contributing a cast-
credible and admirable pur-
stretched chorded keys. This
oid yelps, squeaks, and what
away touch to the song.
suit, of writing in a completely
entire album has the mood
one might even interpret as
new way each time they re-
of a dream you can’t quite re-
pleas. “V (Island Song)” con-
spent recording this album
cord an album.
member, it’s on the tip of your
tinues on the piano theme
have paid off. The final prod-
With hints of jazz, clas-
frontal lobe, yet tucked snug-
of “The Light In Your Name”,
uct they’ve unveiled is goliath
sical, rock, and rolling avant
gly in your amygdala. A daring
and expands in a way that
in scale. They’ve created a vast
garde, this album feels like
haze, it’s a brilliant and fogged
touches on the best of mini-
zephyr out of their efforts, a
a haunting memory. In re-
hum of flow of consciousness
malist
offering
cleverly dark and ruminous
cording this album, vocalist
that feels like the disjointed,
up morose murmured vocals
album. An easy competitor for
Jack Barnett has said that
darker scenes of a Michel
like “I am the reason, not the
one of my favorite releases this
he worked through each sen-
Gondry film (i.e. Eternal Sun-
questions, not the answers”
year. This album calls for a
tence of lyrics to remove un-
shine or The Science of Sleep)
that leave you crushed and
well crafted and appropriately
necessary consonants, thus
mixed with the brooding fairy
refined. “Fragment Two” is a
romantic absinthe (we recom-
contributing to the overall
tale splendor of Lewis Carroll.
piano led search, filled with
mend Dark Corner).
album
has
PAGE 14 | MicroShiner.com
electronica,
Clearly the long hours
Autumn 2013
Fierce Bad Rabbit
The Maestro and the Elephant
Fierce Bad Rabbit, a four piece indie outfit based loosely out of Fort Collins, CO, has for several years now been shaking up the Rocky Mountain scene with what many feel is the perfect recipe for a tasty musical cocktail, meaningful lyrics mixed with just enough innovative songwriting and instrumental flavor to make it entertaining sonically without watering down the message. Band mates Chris Anderson
best enjoyed straight through
til the album makes a minor
Bourbon, christened after the
(lead vocals, guitar), Alana
from start to finish. Bookend-
melancholy departure with
song of the same name from
Rolfe
Max
ed nicely by the intro track
the title track. Standout tune
their latest album. Earlier this
Barcelow (drums/percussion/
“Wildflowers” and the effective
“Here’s Looking at You” would
year, the band joined Feisty
vocals), and Dayton Hicks
closer “Shooting Stars”, upon
feel perfectly at home in any
co-founder Jamie Gulden for a
(bass guitar) began their
reaching the end it really feels
honkytonk, opening with a
tasting at the distillery, sam-
musical journey together in
like you’ve been someplace.
guitar lick reminiscent of the
pling different whiskeys and
early 2009, developing their
Firmly based in a modern
Motherhips and the evoca-
ingredients to note particular
repertoire from a stockpile
indie rock sound, the album
tive line “’broken bottles on
flavors and assist in the se-
of songs Anderson had writ-
pinballs through genres, flirt-
the floor, mourning from the
lection of what would become
ten while visiting West Af-
ing with various styles but
night before.”
Better Days Bourbon.
rica. Building off a core fan
never quite surrendering to
base in Colorado, they have
any one in particular. “Mat-
embracing
independent
project,” said vocalist Chris
released
(viola,
vocals),
“We’re excited to do this
to
ter of Time” revolves around a
spirit, Fierce Bad Rabbit is
A n d e r s o n . “ We l o v e g o o d
driving beat suggestive of Ar-
also an active participant in
bourbon and to have our song
White, Spools of Thread, and
cade Fire while “When All You
the world of craft. Recently the
represented in this way is
Live and Learn.
Got Is Worry…Let Go” recalls
band collaborated with Fort
very special to us.”
The band’s latest work,
pure 70s AM gold. “Carry On”
Collins-based micro-distiller
The Maestro and the Ele-
is an uplifting call to arms, a
Feisty Spirits to produce the
a way to start working with
phant, is one of those records
theme which continues un-
limited edition Better Days
the music community and
including
albums
the
Black and
date,
four
Steadfastly committed to
“We had been looking for
when this idea was presented, it was interesting to think of working directly with a band to create a new product,” adds Gulden.
Beautifully appointed, the
bottling features unique artwork from local artist Susanna Dominguez, and the back label contains a quote from the title song and a QR code that offers a free download of the track. This limited release is available in the Feisty Spirits’ tasting room, as well as select locations in the Fort Collins area.
It’s a fitting blend for an
indie band who closes a track with the words “so raise a glass to one more glory day, we all wish you well!”
SPIRIT REVIEW
By Cobey Williamson
Autumn Spirit: Better Days Bourbon – Feisty Spirits, Fort Collins, CO
A bourbon named Better Days seems apropos for autumn, a time of the year revered for both its beauty and bounty. Halloween, harvest, hunting season; there is much to be thankful for, and always Better Days on the horizon. etter Days Bourbon is a
flavors and assist in the selec-
limited
tion of what would ultimately
edition
release
from Feisty Spirits in Fort Col-
make up Better Days.
lins, CO, and is a collabora-
tion between the distillery and
tainly that, with a spicy pro-
the band Fierce Bad Rabbit.
file that comes on strong but
Jamie Gulden and the team
mellows as it is enjoyed. In
at Feisty had been looking for
our head to head tasting with
a way to begin working with
some of Diagio’s most vener-
the local music community
able single malts, “immature”
and found the idea of working
was the descriptor most of-
directly with a band to create
ten heard. Given that, we’re
a new product intriguing. A
hoping Feisty has a barrel
tasting was scheduled to al-
stashed somewhere so we can
low members of the band to
see what Better Days might
sample different whiskies and
taste like in another ten or
ingredients to note particular
twenty years.
PAGE 16 | MicroShiner.com
The unique recipe is cer-
CRAFT DESTINATIONS
By Kimberly Bell
Writers’ Fall Opus The University of Montana – Missoula, MT
This September, The University of Montana’s Creative Writing Department held its fifth annual Writers’ Fall Opus. The event—held in the Governor’s Room at The Florence Hotel and catered by Two Sisters—brings the university and the community together to raise funds that benefit UM’s renowned student-run literary magazines, The Oval and Cutbank, UM’s Visiting Writers Series, and student scholarships in creative writing. eaded-up this year by sponsors
Literature and libations have always
Stubblefield to create an event that
Kevin Head and Charlie Brown,
been a match made in heaven, and the
would, “make the community aware of
and overseen by Program Director Judy
Opus is no exception to that rule. In
the writing community within,” and its
Blunt and her Co-Coordinator, writer
addition to the silent auction’s “Books
safe to say they achieved that and more.
Robert
Opus
and Bottles” offerings—which included
The Writers’ Fall Opus was yet another
was a magnificent success. Of course,
a cherry kirsch from Whistling Andy’s,
demonstration of what happens when a
it couldn’t have happened without the
among other covetable delights—of-age
community like Missoula—a community
many Missoula businesses and individu-
guests enjoyed an incredible variety of
that cares about quality over quantity,
als who showed their support either by
wines and single malts at a tasting bar
craft over commercial—dedicates itself to
attending, donating high-quality goods
generously donated and staffed by The
fostering those same passions and con-
and services to the event’s live and si-
Rhinoceros’s Kevin Head, who graduated
cerns in others. “It’s more of a friendrais-
lent auctions and raffle prize, or both.
from the program in 2012. (Some of these
er than a fundraiser,” says Stubblefield.
Said one newcomer to the event, the live
palate-pleasers included Balcones, an
auction items—ranging from a guided
award-winning single malt from Austin,
Cheers from the staff at Microshiner to
fly-fishing trip with local writer Jamie
Texas, and Ardbog, from the masters of
the many small businesses and individu-
Rogers to a Monte Dolack original oil
malt at the Ardbeg distillery in Scotland’s
als who donated their effort, their goods,
painting—were, “the best (he’d) ever seen
Islay region.)
their time, and their friendship to such a
at a fundraiser.”
worthwhile cause.
Stubblefield,
PAGE 18 | MicroShiner.com
the
2013
Five years ago, Head worked with
THE ELLENSBURG DISTILLERY
The Ellensburg Distillery 1000 North Prospect St. Suite 3, Ellensburg, WA 98926 (509) 925-1295 | http://www.TheEllensburgDistillery.com
CRAFT EVENTS
By Pat Romanowski | Photography By Nicholas Matsas
Independent Spirits Expo The Hilton Hotel – Chicago, IL Once upon a time in the city of Chicago an infamous bootlegging gangster named Al Capone was known to have run the booze trade. Although Prohibition might have gone belly up in 1933, that same sense of underground culture and ingenious spirit was again running high at the Hilton on South Michigan Avenue, in the form of the 2013 Independent Spirits Expo. nd, man, the juice was hot. And dry.
adorned the booths along with a host of
of the ceiling lit brilliantly the
And bitter. And sweet. And strong
complimentary products, including ton-
gold walled Buckingham room
and sour and all of these things in the
ics, mixers, ginger beers and other good-
that housed the estimated 500
best possible ways one can imagine, but
ies. In a refreshing departure, the event
vendors that made it out. The
we’ll get to that.
avoided the feel of just another bullish
main tasting portion of the expo
The event was held on hump day,
marketing opportunity for mainstream
ran from 5 in the evening to
Wednesday the 25th of September, which
distributers to plug their latest swill for a
9:30 PM. By 6:15 the room
was as fine a time as any this crisp early
wholesale buck, and instead captured the
was rolling.
autumn to sample some of the finest sap
true artisanal spirit of the industry, pay-
on the planet. This year marked the 3rd
ing homage to honest to goodness, take
if I wanted to make a fair run
year running for the Expo (which also
it or leave it quality stuff from all around
at sampling as much of what
pops up later in San Francisco), and bless
the globe.
was available as possible I
the drink, it doesn’t appear to be going
Another cool thing about it was that
would have to pace myself, but
away anytime soon.
it was open to anyone who wanted to
everything looked so damn
The Expo, in so many words, was a
grab a ticket ($50-$75, a fair price to pay
tempting. In a bold stretch
U.N. style gathering of the who’s who in
and worth every cent on the return). Any
of ten feet one could stop
independent distilling, showcasing the
member of the public could get in on the
off and
finest what’s what of the craft spirit scene.
action, try something new, and even learn
A vast array of spirits - whisky, gin, vod-
a thing or two.
ka, tequila, even absinthe and mescal -
PAGE 20 | MicroShiner.com
Crystal chandeliers hung the length
From the start I knew that
Autumn 2013 grab a bit of Pickney Bend Rested Ameri-
anecdote to accompany it, and a well-
France, the exact mixture is at any given
can Small Batch Whisky from New Haven,
schooled and detailed preface marked
time known only to the two monks who
Missouri; then move from there onto a
each sip. It has been said about some
prepare it. The small portion I sampled
chilled shot of an all organic Farmers Gin
artists that their hearts are worn on their
worked on my senses like some kind of a
and cucumber mix to ease the burn from
sleeve; it could be said that these par-
divine elixir, and as I took it in, feeling en-
the former. After a breather and a glass of
ticular artists truly wear their hearts on
tirely revitalized, with sweet spicy earthen
water, one could bite the bullet and mo-
their bottle.
tones coming in glittery waves, the gentle-
sey over to size up a gold bottle of 5 year
Nelson’s Green Brier Distillery, who
man running the booth pulled out a tablet
old Scorpion Mezcal Anejto made of 100%
came up from Nashville, TN, was anoth-
to reveal a slide show of pictures he had
sweet cooked agave.
er booth that I visited. As I was learning
taken during a recent pilgrimage to the
One premier ingredient contributing
about the history of the distillery from
actual hermitage in Chartreuse where the
to the success of the event, aside from the
Charlie Nelson, great-great-great grand-
French monks run their operation.
spirits themselves, were the profession-
son of Charlie Nelson the first, founder of
als working the booths and serving up
the legendary Nelson Distillery, he poured
was also a gathering of spirit writers held
drinks. Surprisingly, a majority of those
out a cup neat from a bottle of their sig-
prior to the event. This open panel dis-
doing the pouring were either the actual
nature Belle Meade Whisky. Surround-
cussion featured both new and seasoned
head distillers of the product themselves,
ed by the clamor of a world class event,
authors and contributing critics spanning
or partners directly involved with some
Charlie and I spoke intimately; I enjoying
the entire breadth of the spirit writing
aspect of the hands on production of
the fruits of their labor while he shared
spectrum, with each author on the panel
the spirit.
the immense history of his family in Ten-
having recently released work devoted
In addition to the main tasting, there
nessee and the legacy of a distillery that
primarily to the craft distilling and cock-
down to earth, human element of the ex-
dates back to 1885.
tail culture at large.
perience added a whole other dimension
to what I was sampling. Their enthusi-
I stopped and tried some Green Char-
ing their introductions every single one of
From a taster’s standpoint, that very
After a few laps around the room,
It was interesting to find that dur-
asm for craft culture and their bold, vig-
treuse, a liqueur whose recipe has been
these writers made a point of noting that
orous passion for the art was right there
kept secret by Carthusian monks since
they had gotten their start with spirits
on hand to back up the product on
1737. An exquisite blend of over 130 dif-
first hand; whether working at a distill-
display. Not a single spirit was
ferent herbs, plants and flowers native
ery, traveling as a rep, just sitting at the
served without a royal intro-
to the Chartreuse Mountain re-
bar or actually working behind it. Many
duction or historical
gion in the south of
CRAFT EVENTS
of them wryly admitted that they didn’t
run of the mill gin and dollar store tonic
going so far as to consider it a worthy and
get into writing about booze on purpose,
on your favorite bar back may someday
valuable aim for the rest of the drinking
though by the same token were not ter-
become a thing of the past. A time may
class to adopt. Of course I must admit
ribly surprised to be doing it for a living
come when the average imbiber may
that particular dream welled up in me
now. Scathingly expert and unflinching-
aspire rather to save his pennies
after having only just sampled the most
ly confident champions of the art, they
and treat himself to a more virtuous,
incredible rum I have ever tasted, which
spoke with immense insight on the craft
high profile bottle of small batch. No
prior to being bottled had rested in casks
cocktail movement that has been gradu-
doubt, the success of the Independent
submerged 7 fathoms below the surface
ally gaining an exciting momentum in the
Spirits Expo is testament itself to this
of the Pacific for over half a decade. Given
last 7 or 8 years.
growing trend.
that qualification, my wholehearted rec-
Casting a final glance about the event
ommendation is that you attend a craft
that’s been steadily blooming over the
center floor, I deigned to envision this kind
distillers festival or independent spirits
past few years is any indication, finding
of future augmentation of taste for myself,
expo, and decide for yourself.
If the resurgence in craft culture
PAGE 22 | MicroShiner.com
CRAFTING COCKTAILS CJ Nielsen pours some ingredients for a freshly mixed custom cocktail.
Autumn 2013
CRAFTING
J Nielsen isn’t a native of New Orleans. She moved to the Big Easy after Katrina to help a
COCKTAILS
BARTENDER INTERVIEW
ask why, she sums it up nicely by saying, “because it’s simple, it’s New Orleans, and it’s the perfectly balanced cocktail.” She
The Big Easy
friend rebuild a house and she’s been there ever since. She spent
would love a stint behind the bar at the French 75 with the leg-
KIMBERLY
five years working in dive bars. Re-
endary Chris Hannah. “I’ve worked
NASLUND
flecting fondly on that experience, she says, “I had a lot of freedom. With a dive
events with him but I want to know what it’s like to work with him behind
bar you can call an—hole an—hole and
that bar.”
kick ‘em out. It’s empowering.”
venture to the city in droves, attending
As she leans on the bar of the Lucky
seminars, frequenting tasting events, and
French Space Program. In a not-so-
Rooster, that particular freedom is a
imbibing an endless supply of cocktails,
subtle ode to her lowbrow past, half of
thing of the past. She’s now managing
all the while being courted for their affec-
the glass is crusted with Tang (yes, the
the bar at one of New Orleans newest up-
tions by liquor brands large and small.
punch mix). She serves it extremely cold.
scale drinking establishments, a change
“Tales of the Cocktail is like sum-
The first taste is smooth and bitter fol-
in venue which provides her with a whole
mer camp, seeing all my best friends in
lowed by a burst of tangy sweetness. It’s a
new kind of freedom: creative liberty with
my own city,” CJ says. “Walking past the
perfect expression of not only her creative
the cocktail list.
Monteleone (the hotel where the event is
talent, but also the lack of pretense and
held) when it’s not Tales is bittersweet.”
joie de vie that is the Big Easy.
The first drink she makes me is the
Killer Bee’s Knees, a twist on the classic.
She starts with Honey Boo Boo Child syr-
path has been blazed through a combi-
up, a house-made honey shrub with apple
nation of hard work, talent, and lasting
cider vinegar. She adds Breuckelen Gin
friendships. “I had a friend that worked
and yellow Chartreuse, and last but not
at Tonique. So I asked if I could work for
least some Old Timey oloroso sherry fla-
free to learn the drinks.” After working
vored salt. Regarding the latter, “the secret
a 10pm to 6am dive bar shift she went
ingredient is time,” she says with a smirk.
ahead and helped her friend open To-
nique at 7am. “I met the owner and not
Cocktails are as much a part of New
The last drink she creates is The
Like many bartenders, her career
Orleans history as jazz is, and that’s nev-
long after I was working there.”
er more apparent than during the annual
Tales of the Cocktail. The five day event
conversation naturally turns to the Saz-
is a pilgrimage for bar professionals. They
erac. It’s CJ’s favorite cocktail. When I
Being at a bar in New Orleans the
The French Space Program - 1 Glorious Breukelen Gin - 1 ½ El Dorado 5yr - 1 Suze - ¼ Bittermens commonwealth - ½ OJ - 1 bar spoon Acid phosphate - Shake/strain over fresh ice in a double old fashioned glass Tang-rimmed Credit: CJ & the Lucky Rooster
MicroShiner.com | PAGE 25
DISTILLERY HIGHLIGHT
By Brian Cary
Charbay Winery & Distillery Honoring a Family Tradition – www.Charbay.com ven though Charbay produces some
son, Miles told Marko that in order to ac-
that this beer would make for an inter-
amazing wine, in my mind it is Char-
tually earn the title of “Master Distiller”
esting spirit. So began his quest to make
bay’s spirit line that takes center stage.
he would have to bring a new product to
what is now called Charbay R5 Hop
Charbay is a family business, and has
market under the Charbay name. Marko
Flavored Whiskey.
been since 1983. Marko Karakasevic
did just that. He teamed up with the mas-
is the Master Distiller at Charbay and
ter brewer Richard Norgrove from Bear
ing whiskey, sitting in the bottle at 99
learned everything from his father, Miles.
Republic Brewery in Healdsburg, Cali-
proof, with tasting notes of baking spice
Together they have been distilling every-
fornia. Bear Republic is known for their
and hops. This whiskey starts as ready-
thing from their famous line of flavored
Racer 5 IPA, Red Rocket Ale and Hop
to-bottle Racer 5 IPA that is then distilled
vodka up through rum, tequila, grappa
Rod Rye. Racer 5 IPA being their most
though Charbay’s massive Alambic cop-
and the brandy that started it all.
popular and Richard constantly produc-
per still and aged in French oak for just
ing batch after batch, Marko thought
under a year. The French oak gives the
Having finally passed the torch to his
PAGE 26 | MicroShiner.com
The R5 Hop Whiskey is a truly amaz-
Autumn 2013
spirit a nice mouth feel and adds more vanilla notes, not to mention imparting the whiskey with a nice dark, rich caramel color.
I, personally, am in love with this
spirit. It defines the change that is to come in the craft spirit world: branching out from the standard “Kentucky Mash Bill” always involving corn! Marko is doing something different that, in my opinion will completely change the way we look at traditional spirits!
Product List Marko hand selects the finest and freshest ingredients direct from their source. Weather its raspberries from Oregon, or citrus from central California. He examines and ensures that each fruit is no more than three days off the plant.
Spirits
Vodkas
-Charbay Tequila
-Clear Vodka
-Tequila Tapatio Blanco 110
-Blood Orange
-Tequila Tapatio Blanco
-Meyer Lemon
-Tequila Tapatio Reposado
-Ruby Grapefruit
-Tequila Tapatio Añejo
-Green Tea
-Whiskey - Doubled & Twisted
-Red Raspberry
-Whiskey - Ii
-Pomegranate
-R5 Whiskey C (Clear) -R5 Whiskey A (Aged)
Aperitifs
-Alambic Pot Still Rum
-Green Tea Aperitif
-Tahitian Vanilla Bean Rum -Pastis -Black Walnut Liqueur -Grappa -Brandy N0.83
Ports -Distillers’ Port -Ruby Port -White Port
CRAFT IS A COMMUNITY
In the wake of the recent disaster in Colorado we in the craft community want to recognize our friends and neighbors affected by the floods. We encourage you to show your support through your patronage of Colorado’s craft distillers.
DISTILLERY
IN THE
ROUGH
OLD NEW ORLEANS RUM
WRITTEN BY
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
CHRISSY CARY
BRIAN CARY
ucked amidst the back roads of
distilled spirit whose quality outweighs
the Big Easy on the border be-
quantity. This rum is favored by food-
tween the 7th and 8th Ward,
ies and spirit aficionados alike, patrons
there stands a large brick build-
who fully appreciate the history behind
ing from the late 1800s surrounded by
the drink and the effort of the men and
machinery and concrete. The front door
women who distill it. From start to finish
is propped open for business. It’s painted
the distillation process is done hands on,
bright red and has the words “Old New
through taste and smell. The final prod-
Orleans Rum” sprawled across it. This
uct: rum with flavor so refined it precludes
building, once a cotton mill, is a perfect
any need to add diet cola to it. Its targeted
example of the vitality that is the heart of
audience: the 25-40 year old individual
New Orleans. The city is able to grow and
who can appreciate not only the outcome
change, take something of prior industry,
but also the hard work and attention to
in ruins amongst the concrete jungle, and
detail that went into creating it.
reimagine it, transitioning its relevance
into the next era.
rates and politicians; it was reported that
American grown and made, the first of
George Washington insisted on having
its kind, Old New Orleans Rum is a craft
rum at his inaugural ball. It is created
Rum has long been linked with pi-
PAGE 32 | MicroShiner.com
Autumn 2013
through a process of fermentation and
distillation of molasses, a byproduct of re-
Rum Distillery began as an idea dur-
fining sugar. Molasses, which was consid-
ing one of his European painting tours.
ered a waste product in the 17th century,
Stopping in Switzerland to visit a friend,
got its start in the Caribbean, where the
Michalopoulos witnessed a traveling dis-
sugar farmers would use the sticky liquid
tiller journey into the center of town with
waste as a way to feed cattle and slaves.
his still in a wagon tied to the back of his
Once said slaves discovered the possibili-
truck. This man proceeded to collect and
ties of what this byproduct could yield, it
purchase produce from the local citizens,
was only a matter of time before the recipe
including apricots grown in Michalopou-
was perfected and mass produced in the
los’ hostess’ yard. He would then ferment
form of rum.
and distill the juices and a week or so lat-
For Michalopoulos, Old New Orleans
The popularity of rum spread quickly
er sell the locally grown spirit back to the
into the British Colonies, and distilleries
townspeople. Michalopoulos was inspired
began to develop in the Northeast around
by this simple yet effective method, and
the 1660s. The trade of molasses, rum,
brought the idea back to Louisiana.
and slaves became New England’s most
popular and prosperous industry. Howev-
ture Center, sugarcane has been grown
er, in response to the increased need for all
in south Louisiana since Jesuit priests
things molasses, in addition to England’s
planted the first crops in 1751; it now
increasing demand for sugar, the British
contributes $2 billion to the local econ-
Parliament passed the Molasses Act of 1733, followed by the Sugar Act of 1764, placing an additional tax on all sugar and sugar byproducts. Rum’s popularity began to wane following the American
Revolu-
According to the Louisiana Agricul-
THE OLDEST PREMIUM RUM DISTILLERY IN THE CONTINENTAL UNITED STATES.
omy. With sugarcane
being
such
an integral part of the
local
Louisi-
ana agriculture, it seemed only natural that the spirit chosen by Michalopoulos would be rum. And surprisingly enough, this
tionary war due to additional restrictions
market had yet to be accessed, despite the
placed upon the export of goods from the
vastness of Louisiana’s crop.
Caribbean Islands to America and the de-
velopment of American whiskey.
leans Distillery, the company has gone
Since the opening of Old New Or-
Which brings us back to modern day
through ebbs and flows. The most notable
Louisiana; less than 4 miles from New
occurred in August 2005, the day Hurri-
Orleans’ French Quarter, in the 7th Ward
cane Katrina roared through The Big Easy
on Frenchman Street, stands the oldest
tearing up the town and flooding anything
premium rum distillery in the continen-
that was still standing. Old New Orleans
tal United States, Old New Orleans. This
Distillery was no exception to this. Prior
retired cotton mill turned artisan rum dis-
to 2005 the aging rum barrels were simply
tillery is home to the Celebration Distilla-
stacked on the floor awaiting the bottling
tion Corporation, founded nearly 20 years
process, so imagine Michalopoulos’ ter-
ago by a group of local artists and musi-
ror when he returned to the distillery to
cians. Their fearless leader: local contem-
find his barrels bobbing in 8 feet of water.
tractors to test the barrels for contamina-
porary artist James Michalopoulos, un-
James was certain that his entire invento-
tion. Once the contractors completed their
official face of the New Orleans art world
ry was ruined, and that he would have to
reports, over 75% of the stock had passed
and longstanding contributor of original
start from scratch. However, in hopes that
and was eligible for resale as a unique
paintings to the formal New Orleans Jazz
some of the barrels had not been damaged
piece of history, their 10 Year “Katrina
and Heritage Festival posters, most re-
and remained air tight, he decided to take
Aged” Rum.
cently in 2013.
a chance and bring in 2 independent con-
PAGE 36 | MicroShiner.com
The distillery receives its molasses-
Autumn 2013
< OPPOSITE Examples of poster art by distillery founder and contemporary painter James Michalopoulos who is considered by many to be the unofficial face of the New Orleans art scene.
ONLY 5 YEARS AFTER ITS CONCEPTUALIZATION, OLD NEW ORLEANS RUM WAS NAMED ONE OF THE TOP 5 SPIRITS IN AMERICA BY USA TODAY.
PAGE 40 | MicroShiner.com
Autumn 2013
from LaFourche Sugar Mills, located in
charred barrels purchased from whiskey
Thibodaux, LA, where Celebration Distil-
distilleries are also repurposed and given
lation Corporation has done the unthink-
new life. Old New Orleans is able to re-
able for most rum distilleries. They have
use them for an additional 7-8 years, and
built and installed specialized equipment
following their service distilling rum the
in the sugar mill to collect “B-cut” mo-
barrels are then sold off to local breweries
lasses directly, offering them the highest
where the brew masters can create a rum
quality product from which to begin the
aged beer.
hand crafting of this boutique rum.
Inside the distillery, a crew of workers
ative juices of the Celebration Distillation
brings the art of hand crafting spirits to a
crew, an award winning line of American
whole other level. Practically all the equip-
grown and distilled rums have been pro-
ment has been engineered, handcrafted,
duced. Only 5 years after its conceptu-
or refurbished to meet the specific needs
alization, the Old New Orleans rum was
of the plant. A stripping still was fash-
named one of the top 5 spirits in America
ioned out of a tank that was originally in-
by USA Today. And their success didn’t
tended to create perfume in France from
end there; the Amber rum was awarded
1920-1970. Some of the other stills and
the Bronze Medal from the Ministry of
pieces of equipment have been salvaged
Rum in Barbados in 2001, the Bronze
from old dairy farms and breweries. And
medal from the International Review of
the hundreds of oak
Spirits in 2004, and the Gold Medal from
Between the equipment and the cre-
the American Distilling institute in 2007. The Crystal
PAGE 42 | MicroShiner.com
Autumn 2013
rum was presented with the Silver Medal from the International Review of
This has led
Spirits in 2004 and then again in 2007.
to significant increase in
And last but certainly not least, their Ca-
demand both locally and in a number of
jun Spiced Rum was rated highest by the
other states including New York and Illi-
Beverage Testing Institute in 2007, a feat
nois, thanks to the craft spirit enthusiasts
it repeated in 2010.
found in larger cities there. However, be-
The team at the Old New Orleans
ing popular can lead to production woes;
distillery, however, is never satisfied;
so for now, the plan for this small “distill-
they continue to create and experiment
ery in the rough” is to focus on growing
with new flavors and ideas, recently
its Louisiana market share and continue
developing a new pre-mixed cocktail called
developing new products along the lines
Gingeroo. This ready to drink carbonated
of their pre- bottled cocktails.
cocktail is made of fresh ginger puree,
unprocessed sugar, cayenne infused
wasn’t enough to win one over to craft,
rum, and carbonated water. Just add ice
Old New Orleans has one more treat in
and enjoy.
store for its fans. On the back of every la-
And as if an award winning rum
Amidst a national trend moving rap-
bel is placed an image of one of Micha-
idly toward craft distilling, Old New Or-
lopoulos’ paintings. As the dark rum is
leans Rum is one of the highest quality
consumed, the painting grows clearer,
rums relative to its price point, making
revealing this craft distillery for the true
it a highly sought after boutique spirit.
masterpiece that it is.
six years ago. “It’s almost alchemy,” he said of the distillation process. But taking his part-time hobby to the next level wasn’t part of the original plan.
THE SINGLE GREATEST INFLUENCE IN HIS QUEST TO DISTILLING WAS BY FOLLOWING SOME SIMPLE ADVICE, ‘BUY A LOT OF ALCOHOL.’
return to port.
A typically
younger spir it, Due North Rum was the first
prod-
uct released by Van Brunt Stillhouse.
Not until he read a story about
Van Brunt Stillhouse offers a high qual-
O r g a n i c , u n processed sugar grown by
a local New York distiller was his in-
ity year-round menu of spirits: rum in
farmers in the foothills of the Himalayas
terested piqued and the idea for a
the summer, whisky in the fall and win-
adds a subtle sweetness. Charred and
distillery implanted.
ter, and, uniquely, grappa just about
smoky, pungent yet smooth, the rum is
any time.
aged in oak barrels, giving it a whiskey-
up some techniques from Kilchoman
He attended a few classes and picked
Due North Rum, the first local small
like character. Topped with hints of oak
Distillery in Connecticut, but the single
batch rum since Prohibition, offers a
and apple, Due North Rum is a unique
greatest influence in his quest to distilling
unique taste and story to match. Nauti-
take on the historic spirit.
was by following some simple advice, “buy
cal in origin, sailors were once afforded
a lot of alcohol.”
a pint of rum daily. Often watered down,
keys” currently includes American Whis-
Van Brunt’s “growing family of whis-
“I have always been self-taught, and
the sailors identified the strength of the
key, Malt Whiskey, and New Make Whis-
distilling was no different,” Daric shared.
grog according to the compass points.
key, commonly known as moonshine.
Taste-testing an abundance of whiskeys
“West” meant the liquid was mostly water,
and rums lead Daric to hone his palette
and its strength increased moving coun-
Make” is Van Brunt’s version of an
and perfect his craft.
ter-clockwise. Daric explained, “When
American classic. Daric explained that,
Daric’s vision was officially brought to
the ship was headed for poor weather
“In the 19th Century, New York was
life in January of 2012. Only four blocks
or battle, the Captain would ration out
producing more moonshine than the
from his home in the quaint, waterfront
pure rum, which came to be known as
south.” Van Brunt Stillhouse is honor-
Red Hook community, a former paint fac-
‘Due North.’” The historical name isn’t its
ing that tradition with an impressive
tory provided the perfect location to create
only unique element. The custom-made
small-batch moonshine of their own.
and house the delectable spirits.
labels are adorned with a fictional sea
The lack of oak aging brings forth the
character as described by a sailor upon
bold grain flavor enhanced by a caramel
Although still being in its infancy,
PAGE 52 | MicroShiner.com
The youngest of the bunch, “New
Autumn 2013
PAGE 54 | MicroShiner.com
Autumn 2013
PAGE 58 | MicroShiner.com
Autumn 2013
bouquet and finish.
Van Brunt American Whiskey of-
fers a unique grain bill that defies a traditional category. Equal parts barley and wheat are supported by corn and a touch of rye to create a complex yet smooth delicacy. After spending six months in charred oak casks, the full-bodied spirit offers distinctive wood flavors complemented by caramel notes and dashes of vanilla and coconut.
In collaboration with Brooklyn’s Six
Point Brewery, Van Brunt’s Malt Whiskey is created from 100% malted barley. Matured for nine months, it offers an impressive complexity for such a young spirit. A lover of Belgium beers, Daric wanted to create a malted whiskey that infused those fruity esters. Fresh floral aromas greet the nose, followed by delicate oak accented with clove, barley, nectar, and a spicy rye finish.
Grappa is a rare find in Brook-
lyn. Fruity and floral on the nose, the robust, tannic, and mouthwatering spirit uses grape skins from Brooklyn Winery to create a locally produced grappa.
Van Brunt Stillhouse’s hand-craft-
ed approach allows for experimentation with its products. Daric offered a sneak peek into his newest exciting creations for the upcoming holiday season. Produced with organic New York State corn and malted barley, Van Brunt Bourbon oozes with notes of cinnamon and spice; a necessity for any holiday menu. Also being introduced to the Van Brunt family is a single barrel 100% malted Canadian rye. The elixir is aged twelve months and tastes of chocolate and coffee, another delight for the holidays.
Utilizing
small-batch
production
techniques and a hands on, local approach, Van Brunt Stillhouse is making their own mark in both history and craft culture. Look for their high quality, artisanal spirits throughout New York, as well as the states of New Jersey, Connecticut, and California in the future.
PAGE 60 | MicroShiner.com
Autumn 2013
^ ABOVE A worker at Van Brunt Stillhouse gives us a sneak peak on their newest upcoming holiday creations flavored with cinnamon, spice, chocolate, and coffee.
UTILIZING SMALLBATCH PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES AND A HANDS ON, LOCAL APPROACH, VAN BRUNT STILLHOUSE IS MAKING THEIR OWN MARK IN BOTH HISTORY AND CRAFT CULTURE. PAGE 62 | MicroShiner.com
Autumn 2013
The Wyoming Whiskey Barons Written by Nels Wroe Photography by Luc Nadeau he main character in Owen
a light jacket. While no one would envi-
Wister’s famous western novel
sion him atop a saddle driving cattle, he
The Virginian has found a new
would glide effortlessly into a drift boat on
incarnation. Steve Nally, Mas-
the Big Horn River with a fly rod in hand.
ter Distiller at Wyoming Whiskey saunters
“We’re both in good hands with Steve,” he
over to greet us, boots crunching in the
grins. “A lot of what I do here comes down
gravel parking lot. A tall, lanky southern
to luck, where everything Steve does is all
gentleman, Nally is both at odds with and
about experience.”
at home among the red rock hills of cen-
tral Wyoming. Like Wister’s iconic charac-
earlier this morning in Thermopolis,
ter, he harkens from the south – Nally is a
Wyoming, approximately 15 miles south
native Kentuckian – but has chiseled out
of the distillery. DeFazio suggested we
a home for himself in the hard Wyoming
meet at the Black Bear Café, an easy sell
landscape just outside Thermopolis.
given his advice that it is one of the few
He is disarming at first, his quiet
places in Hot Springs County where you
southern drawl sometimes hard to hear
can get a good cup of coffee. He was al-
amidst the noise coming from the distill-
ready at the counter when I arrived, deft-
ery operations in the background. Nally
ly jumping from one conversation to the
has been in Wyoming for almost five
next as the patrons and staff greeted him
years, lured out of retirement from the
with smiles, hugs or handshakes at every
helm of the still at Maker’s Mark by Da-
break in the conversation. Almost without
vid Defazio, the COO of Wyoming Whis-
asking, large cups of piping hot coffee ap-
key. But despite the change in venue, this
peared along with our breakfast to go in
charming Southerner is clearly in his el-
hefty containers.
ement. “It’s a pleasure to meet you,” he
says with a firm handshake. “Welcome to
Ozzy, out of the back seat for a pit stop
Wyoming Whiskey.”
before we head north on State Highway
The Wyoming Whiskey tour began
DeFazio briefly lets his coal-black lab,
Defazio is also a transplant, relocating
20 towards Kirby. Kirby is a small town of
in the mid-1990’s from New York to Jack-
no more than 75 full-time residents, nes-
son Hole, Wyoming. He is the New West in
tled along a bend in the Big Horn River.
every aspect, effortlessly achieving what
Before Wyoming Whiskey arrived, Kir-
most first-generation westerners strive for
by was known as the home to Butch’s
but never achieve – full acceptance into
Place, a favorite spot to belly up to the
the Wyoming family. He’s wearing a new
bar and enjoy solid, home-cooked burg-
classic – a western snap shirt re-imag-
ers and steaks. Not much has changed –
ined for the modern era – blue jeans and
Butch’s Place still serves up mighty fine
PAGE 66 | MicroShiner.com
The distillery released approximately 3,000 cases for retail sale. It took just under 3 minutes before the state’s online ordering system crashed due to the volume of orders it was trying to process. BELOW Steve Nally, Wyoming Whiskey’s Master Distiller, oversees the whole fermentation process—the corn, wheat, and barley is all grown right in their backyard.
buffalo burgers – until you look east to-
lot, we entered the building through the
us to follow him up the gray steel stairs to
wards the river. The distillery’s tall tower
main doors and stepped into the heart
the second floor, briefing us on the opera-
stands in sharp relief against the rocky
of the distillery. The towering Vendome-
tions as we went. “This was the opportu-
red cliffs of the Owl Creek Mountains,
designed column still greets us in all its
nity of a lifetime for me,” he comments.
home to some of the most spectacu-
glory, reaching up more than two stories
“I’ll probably never again get the chance
lar geological formations in the Western
into the distillery’s main hall. There is lit-
to design something completely the way I
United States. Flanked on either side
tle else in the room, and little else is war-
want it, from the ground up.”
by open hay and grain fields, the struc-
ranted – the copper and brass still is a
ture is by design reminiscent of the
work of art that commands attention. We
from the truth. Virtually every piece of
iconic grain silos that dot the landscape
paused for a moment, just long enough for
this distillery has been designed, ap-
throughout the country.
DeFazio to ask “Not bad, eh?” An under-
proved, inspected, or modified by Nally.
statement like no other. Nally gestured for
From fundamental design changes, such
After meeting Nally in the parking
PAGE 70 | MicroShiner.com
DeFazio confirms that this isn’t far
Autumn 2013 RIGHT > Wyoming Whisky’s Master Distiller Steve Nally (right), lurred out of retirement from Maker’s Mark by COO David Defazio (left) with his beloved coal-black lab, Ozzy.
Everything fell into place for us – from the
team made at every point in the distillery
Mead family’s decision to build a distill-
design. One of the first things that many
ery, to the way the Wyoming community
people ask is “Why here?” After all, Kirby
rallied around us to make this possible,
is, to put it bluntly, in the middle of no-
to the thousands of small things along the
where. Thermopolis is the closest large
way that led to this point. But Steve is the
town, home to just over 3,000 people.
one that made it work.”
Visitors must travel more than 100 miles
Nally is such the gentleman that he
in any direction to reach a population
doesn’t even hesitate to deflect the credit
density of any merit, the closest being
as the modifications to the layout of the
just given him by DeFazio. “It comes down
Casper 150 miles to the south. Billings,
fermenter tanks to operate on a center
to a lot of people and a lot of work,” he
Montana, the center of commerce in the
pivot structure to the selection of every
notes. “I want to craft a product that we
region, is almost 200 miles in the other
team member, he has spent the past four
can control at every step of the way. It
direction, and good luck heading east
years building a distillery that has the
hasn’t been without its challenges, but
or west – you’ll find yourself either in in
capability to produce some of the finest
that’s part of the reward.”
the vast openness of the Thunder Basin
hand-crafted whiskeys in the country.
Both DeFazio and Nally were dedi-
National Grasslands or the mountains
“When we brought Steve into the fam-
cated to one overriding vision – to craft
and pines of the Shoshone National For-
ily, we had a design and a vision, but we
a whiskey that is true to Wyoming in all
est. For an upstart distillery looking
had no idea how to build a distillery,” De-
aspects. This went beyond company mis-
to build a market, this does not seem
Fazio reflects. “I joked earlier about how
sions and vision statements, shaping
a logical choice.
lucky we were – that is really not a joke.
the decisions that the Wyoming Whiskey
DeFazio has a very different take on
PAGE 72 | MicroShiner.com
Autumn 2013
this point. “We are crafting something that
askew glance, and chuckled. “I mean
is true to Wyoming. We could have easily
that all our spent grains go right back to
cation has been fortuitous. Unlike the
picked another location. Maybe the whis-
local farms and ranches. The cattle love
southern climes, where humidity and
key would be as good? Maybe, but I doubt
this stuff.”
temperatures are higher but typically fall
it,” he said, pointing out that the Big Horn
We walk back through the distillery,
within a limited range, the Wyoming cli-
Basin has everything they need to create a
passing the equipment room where the
mate leans towards extremes. From bitter
world-class product. “We have ownership
steam generator, pumps, and other equip-
cold temperatures in the winter that can
of almost everything that goes into our
ment were creating a racket that made it
hit minus 30 degrees Fahrenheit, to sum-
barrels from the point of origination.”
hard to carry on a conversation. Nally had
mer temperature that top out above 100
It all starts with the water. Wyoming
peeled off from the tour to take a press-
degrees, Wyoming Whiskey uses the gra-
Whiskey sits atop the Madison Formation,
ing phone call, so I follow DeFazio out-
dient as a tool in their toolkit. As it turns
a massive underground aquifer more than
side into the brilliant Wyoming sunshine.
out, these massive temperature swings
a mile below the surface of the prairie. This
“I swear, I learn from Steve every day. I
keep the convection currents inside the
water source is one of the highest yielding
can tell you a lot of the details, but most
barrels constantly in motion, a significant
aquifers in the country. More importantly,
of them are learned from him. So until
benefit to the aging process.
it may be one of the purest, highest qual-
we get him back, I want to show you one
ity water sources available. In fact, the
of my favorite places,” he says, keys jin-
it turns out that Mother Nature herself
water from the aquifer can be so pure that
gling in his hand. We stop in front of a
helps us out a bit,” says Nally, rejoining
treating the water is unnecessary in many
large warehouse, and he unlocks the steel
us. The constant movement of the bour-
cases. “Water is fundamental to the qual-
doors, stepping back to let me past.
bon in the barrels means more of the liq-
ity of our whiskey. It’s fundamental to any
Coming from the sunshine into the
uid comes in contact with the charcoal
distillery,” DeFazio noted. “Add to this, all
darkness of the warehouse meant we had
and wood, expediting the aging process.
our grains are produced right here – the
to give our eyes a few seconds to adjust.
“Comparatively, we’re seeing a 6-month
corn, wheat, and barley we use are grown
But it was the rich, earthy aroma of wood
gain, maybe more.”
right here, right out our door.”
and bourbon that hit the senses first –
At this point in the tour, we are
and as our eyes caught up to our noses,
teeth waiting for more of Wyoming Whis-
standing on the platform outside the main
the whole of the rack house came into
key to make it into the bottle. It seems the
building, looking north across the fields.
view. Wyoming Whiskey has more than
entire state is poised and waiting, ready to
The grain silos are in the distance at the
1,000 barrels laid up, roughly a quarter
snap up any bottles that manage to make
edge of the property, a leisurely 10-minute
of their potential volume. “I admit, this is
it onto shelves. The inaugural bottling
walk across the fields. The beer well stood
where my patience gets tested,” DeFazio
was launched to the public last Decem-
beneath us as we peered over the railing,
grudgingly admits. “I keep telling Steve,
ber, and the response was overwhelming.
and a few tanker trucks parked nearby,
‘c’mon, it’s gotta be ready now.’ That’s
The distillery hosted an invite-only launch
one partially full. “That’s for the cattle,”
when he looks me in the eye and says
event at the distillery, choosing to
DeFazio says. He caught my slightly
‘Nope. Not yet.’”
host the party out-
PAGE 76 | MicroShiner.com
Here, yet again, the distillery’s lo-
“I’m not going to rush anything. But
DeFazio isn’t the only one gritting his
Autumn 2013
One of the first things that many people ask is
â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;WHY HERE?â&#x20AC;&#x2122; After all, Kirby is, to put it bluntly, in the middle of nowhere. Thermopolis is the closest large town, home to just over 3,000 people. Visitors must travel more than 100 miles in any direction to reach a population density of any merit.
PAGE 78 | MicroShiner.com
Autumn 2013
side – a big risk given that December in
more than 3,000 people showed up to
humbling. That was the moment when I
Wyoming can be bitterly cold.
get a first taste.”
thought maybe we had done things right.”
“It was incredible – a perfect De-
Let’s put this in context for a
The momentum didn’t stop there.
cember day. We couldn’t have asked for
moment: Total population in the nearest
Like many other states, Wyoming is a
one better,” remembers DeFazio. “The
large town (Thermopolis) a mere 3,009
control state. Liquor is distributed to the
only thing we didn’t – couldn’t – plan
people according to the 2010 census.
retail outlets through the Wyoming Liquor
for was the turnout. We invited just over
Early December in Wyoming. Over 3,000
Division, and each retailer places orders
1,500 guests, and we estimated that
in attendance. DeFazio grins. “Yeah. It was
through the state liquor commission’s or-
Family roots run deep here, & that includes the Meads, founding family behind Wyoming Whiskey. ‘The Meads are Wyoming,’ notes DeFazio. ‘Their commitment to the people of this state is unwavering.’
PAGE 80 | MicroShiner.com
Autumn 2013 dering system. The distillery released ap-
family behind Wyoming Whiskey. Brad
prepped and checked prior to their be-
proximately 3,000 cases for retail sale. It
and Kate Mead are 4th generation ranch-
ing filled. Every barrel that goes into the
took just under three minutes before the
ers in the state, and Brad is brother to
warehouse is personally branded and
state’s online ordering system crashed
Matt Mead, current Governor of Wyoming.
signed by a member of the Wyoming
due to the volume of orders it was try-
“The Meads are Wyoming,” notes DeFazio.
Whiskey family. Nally fires up a propane
ing to process. The entire lot of 3,000
“Their commitment to the people of this
torch, and DeFazio brings out a branding
cases was sold in less than five minutes
state is unwavering.“
iron that they heat up in the flame. Once
(once the dust settled and the system was
Nally and DeFazio point out that the
the iron is ready, Nally dons thick leather
brought back online).
stronger the ties, the more likely someone
work gloves and skillfully plants the hot
For folks that know and love Wyo-
will tell you straight up if you’re doing
iron onto the end of a barrel. Smoke and
ming, this doesn’t come as much of a
something they don’t think is right. Judg-
flames engulf the iron as the brand is
surprise. Wyoming has a tendency to get
ing by the reactions and reviews that keep
seared into the oak. He finishes the job by
into your blood – or, more specifically, it’s
pouring in, Wyoming Whiskey is living up
signing his name next to the brand.
the people of Wyoming that create this
to its namesake’s standards.
connection. Family roots run deep here,
me the gloves. “Make sure you do it right.
and that includes the Meads, founding
back. This is where the new barrels are
The final stop on the tour is around
“You ready?” asks DeFazio, handing
‘Cause your name is going on this one.”
RUSTIC CAMPFIRE BREAD This is a classic crusty loaf bread that can be baked in a cast iron pan or Dutch oven. If you are cooking over a fire, make sure you have a base of hot coals for both the bottom and top of the oven. If you are using a pan without feet, elevate the pan above the coals using a few well-placed stones.
The Bighorn River that runs through central Wyoming is one of the premier trout rivers in the country. It is a classic dry fly river that can be fished yearround; rarely does the river freeze over in winter. Anglers land stunning Rainbow, Brown, and Yellowstone Cutthroat trout on the wide, meandering waterway. The river inspires these recipes, and while written for openfire cooking, they can easily be prepared in the comfort of your kitchen.
PAGE 82 | MicroShiner.com Recipes were developed and tested by the MicroShiner team (Nels Wroe and Chris Bybee, Executive Chef, InHarvest)
Autumn 2013
Ingredients 4 Cups
FLOUR
2 Teaspoons
SALT
2 ¼ Teaspoons
ACTIVE DRY YEAST
1 ½ - 2 Cups
WATER, room temperature
Directions
1.
Combine flour, salt and
6.
yeast into a large bowl.
2.
Make a well in the center and add the water.
3.
By hand: mix together and continue mixing/kneading for 10+ minutes until
7.
the dough is smooth and
Transfer to a large, oiled bowl. Cover with a cloth and let rise in a warm place until doubled, usually about
5.
2 hours.
fire. You should plan to have plenty of hot coals as a
shape into a round loaf that
base fire. Hardwood is ideal; it burns hotter and longer,
will fit into your Dutch oven
making it easier to regulate temperature.
or pan. (This recipe is sized
for a 12” round oven, so
the final rise, clear out space in the coals for the oven.
adjust the size of the loaf to
Nestle the oven on top of the hot coals, leaving at least
fit your pan.)
2/3 of the coals to the side. Once your oven is in place,
Place the loaf in your oven/ pan and score the top with
½ inch deep.
8.
When the fire is ready and the loaf has completed
carefully place the remaining hot coals on the lid of the
crescent cut approximately
dough hook, mix on low
4.
Punch down the dough and
a sharp knife with a long
elastic. By mixer: using a speed for 10–12 minutes.
While you are waiting for the final rise, prepare your
oven. The top coals are critical for proper baking, and you’ll need more on top than on the bottom.
Rotate the pan every 7 – 10 minutes to keep the
temperature evenly distributed. It’s important to monitor the bread when cooking on a fire. Check it periodically, although try to avoid opening the lid too often. The baking time is sensitive to your fire temperature. With
Cover the loaf and let rise
a good base of coals, baking time can be as short as 20
in a warm place until
minutes, but can be as long as 45 minutes.
almost doubled, usually
about an hour.
sounding when thumped with a finger. Carefully remove
The loaf is done when it is golden brown and hollow
the loaf from the oven and let cool.
For oven baking, you can either bake a single
Use butter or oil to liberally
round loaf or shape two classic baguette-style loaves.
oil the bottom and sides of
Preheat your oven to 400 degrees and place a shallow
your oven/pan.
pan of water in the bottom of the oven. Bake your loaves directly on the center rack (or use a baking stone if you’ve got one) for approximately 30 minutes.
WILD-CAUGHT TROUT WITH WILD LEEKS AND SAGE We had the luxury of six beautiful fish from the river, a combination of Browns and Rainbows, as well as some foraged wild leeks from a friend who seeks out the pungent roots every summer. If you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have wild leeks, scallions or small white onions work beautifully.
PAGE 84 | MicroShiner.com Recipes were developed and tested by the MicroShiner team (Nels Wroe and Chris Bybee, Executive Chef, InHarvest)
Autumn 2013
Ingredients 4 Whole
FRESH-CAUGHT TROUT
Small Jar
WILD LEEKS, (or 2-3 scallions, finely diced)
4 Tablespoons
SWEET BUTTER, (we used raw milk butter from WiMo Farms)
To Taste
FRESH SAGE, chopped
To Taste
SALT AND PEPPER
Directions
1.
Clean and gut the fish,
4.
leaving the head and tail.
2.
Rinse the fish and pat dry, inside and out.
3.
Season the insides of the fish liberally with pepper and salt. Set aside.
5. 6.
Using the banked coals in your fire, nestle the fish into In a small bowl, combine
the coals. Cooking time will vary, but rotate the fish at
butter, 2 Tbsp. wild leeks
least once during cooking. Check the fish at 10 minutes,
(or diced scallions), and the
but plan for up to 20 minutes cooking time. (Just
sage. Mix thoroughly with
enough time to enjoy a Wyoming Whiskey on the rocks
your fingers.
by the fire.)
Spread the seasoning in the inside of each fish.
Carefully remove the fish from the fire. To eat, peel the skin and pick the meat directly off the bones. To cook at home: follow the same process, but preheat
Wrap each fish tightly in foil.
your oven to 375 degrees. You can wrap your fish in foil, or place them in a buttered baking dish and cover the dish with foil. Bake for 15 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 20 minutes.
CAMPFIRE-BRAISED ROOT VEGETABLES A simple, often-overlooked method to cook seasonal root vegetables, this recipe brings out the natural sweetness of the vegetables. Use any seasonal root vegetable; we used heirloom carrots and turnips from the local farmerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s market.
PAGE 86 | MicroShiner.com Recipes were developed and tested by the MicroShiner team (Nels Wroe and Chris Bybee, Executive Chef, InHarvest)
Autumn 2013
Ingredients 8-12
CARRORS, trimmed and cut into 1-inch lengths
1-2
TURNIPS, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 Tablespoons
BUTTER
To Taste
SALT AND PEPPER
1 Tablespoon
WATER
Directions
1. 2.
Create one or two foil packs of vegetables. Add a tablespoon of water and 2 tablespoons of
3.
4.
butter to the packet.
5.
To cook at home: Place vegetables in a pan with a Seal the foil tightly and
tight-fitting lid. Add the butter and the water, and
nestle in hot coals. Cooking
braise the vegetables until tender, about 10 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 12
time takes approximately 20
minutes. Remove the lid, and let the remaining
minutes.
liquid evaporate. The butter will caramelize adding to the sweetness of the vegetables.
Carefully open the foil and let it cook in the coals
Sprinkle with salt and
for another 5 minutes, or
pepper to taste.
until most of the liquid has evaporated.
WILD RICE WITH MUSHROOMS AND WYOMING WHISKEY CREAM SAUCE We used a mix of locally grown fresh mushrooms, but this recipe shines using almost any variety. This is a great dish for vegetarians â&#x20AC;&#x201C; use a larger percentage of hearty mushrooms, such as portabellas, to create a satisfying main course.
PAGE 88 | MicroShiner.com Recipes were developed and tested by the MicroShiner team (Nels Wroe and Chris Bybee, Executive Chef, InHarvest)
Autumn 2013
Ingredients ½-1 pound
MUSHROOMS, fresh and coarsely chopped
~1
ONION, large (or 3-4 shallots, chopped)
1 Cup
WYOMING WHISKEY
¼-½ Cup
HEAVY CREAM
1-2 Teaspoons
BALSAMIC VINEGAR, (we use Coldani Olive Ranch’s barrel-aged)
As Needed
BUTTER
To Taste
SALT AND PEPPER
Directions
1. 2.
Heat butter in a saucepan, add onion.
3.
Add the chopped
4.
Add the whiskey and cook
6.
Remove from heat
mushrooms and sauté
until most of the liquid
and stir in 1 – 2 tsp.
until the mushrooms are
has evaporated.
balsamic vinegar.
Sauté the onion over
just beginning to brown
medium high heat until
and most of the moisture
it is just beginning to
has evaporated. Reduce
brown around the edges.
heat to medium.
5.
Add the cream and cook, stirring constantly, until slightly thickened.
7.
Serve over wild rice.
A
Repurposed
Life Written by
Photography by
Nels Wroe
Luc Nadeau
PAGE 94 | MicroShiner.com
Autumn 2013
rtistry can be anywhere, even in
kids that are playing in the front yard.
the Denver Broncos helped a bit too.”
places one might least expect. The
He greets us warmly, and after a quick
winding streets of suburban Colo-
introduction he casually guides us to the
as the garage door lifts and Toby’s crafts-
rado Springs, Colorado could be almost
driveway and disappears into the house to
manship is unveiled. Several pieces are in
any city – newer, single family homes
open up his workshop.
process, including a creatively-designed
with neatly-kept yards, kids playing bas-
Toby is the craftsman behind Used
pub table in Broncos’ orange and blue. He
ketball, friendly folks strolling along the
Oak Wine Barrels, a small workshop that
shows us a completed table in his base-
sidewalks. It’s at least comfortable, if not
repurposes the wood from barrels past
ment, fully decked out in homage to Den-
particularly inspiring.
their useful life at wineries and distill-
ver’s home team. His artistic sense of style
Toby Sannar is a recent transplant
eries. It wasn’t part of any grand plan to
and solid understanding of practical de-
to this neighborhood. He meets us out in
create a business; to the contrary, Toby
sign are apparent in the heirloom-quality
front of his house, stepping around his
jokes that “the business found me. And
piece on display.
PAGE 96 | MicroShiner.com
The link to the Broncos becomes clear
Autumn 2013
KNOWING THAT TOBY WAS NATURALLY SKILLED, A CLOSE FRIEND SUGGESTED HE TRY DOING OAK BARREL CRAFTS AS A CREATIVE DISTRACTION. LITTLE DID ANYONE KNOW WHERE IT WOULD LEAD.
“The original table was a bit differ-
had been having odd health problems for
ent than this version. Each one is unique,
a few years. At first, I thought it was just
and that’s what I enjoy about these
related to the physical stresses of the job,
projects. I’m always experimenting or im-
but turns out it was MS,” Toby explained.
proving my designs.”
Toby is a relative newcomer to Colo-
the family decided it was time to make a
rado. He moved his family from Portland,
fresh start. They had family in Colorado
leaving a stable but physically demanding
Springs, and his wife had a great job op-
job working for the county road mainte-
portunity. “So we picked up and moved.
nance crew. He made the move after what
It was a change for me, for sure. It has
could have been a life-changing event – he
been a great opportunity for me to be a
was diagnosed with Multiple Sclerosis. “I
dad – but at some point, I felt I had to
RIGHT > Toby drils away while hard at work in his small workshop using his skills to repurpose used oak wine barrels.
When the diagnosis came through,
do something to help out with the family finances,” he said with a smile.
Knowing that Toby was naturally
skilled, a close friend suggested he try doing oak barrel crafts as a creative distraction. Little did anyone know where it would lead. Toby created his prototype pub table, selling the first one as his contribution to the family budget. Word spread, and soon he was contacted by a small gift shop and gallery to create handmade wine racks, the start of commissioned projects that keep his garage shop humming with activity.
Toby is a natural teacher, in his com-
fort zone when sharing his techniques with others. He dons safety glasses and fires up equipment to show how he crafts the different pieces. Each barrel is unique – color, grain, condition – and he experiments with different finishes to bring out the characteristics from the wood. The rich, purple patina that comes from long-aged cabernet barrels may lead him to use a teak oil finish while the subtler, woodsier tones from bourbon barrels warrant a wood stain to bring out the texture of the grain.
Toby’s warmth radiates into all the
pieces he creates, and it also plays out in his commission work. “It’s a lot of fun to create something that is not only unique, but includes the customer’s input and style,” he notes proudly. “I do a lot of customization and experimentation to get it exactly the way a customer wants.”
To view more of Toby’s pieces, visit
www.usedoakwinebarrels.com. If you want to see Toby in action and learn how to build his popular oak stave occasional table – check out his instructional videos on YouTube:
http://www.youtube/zrbGJZrdr-w
PAGE 100 | MicroShiner.com
Autumn 2013