el Restaurante magazine, Apr/May/Jun 2022 by MaidenNamePress

elRestaurante

APR/MAY/JUNE 2022

| YO U R S O U R C E F O R M E X I C A N A N D L AT I N F O O D S E R V I C E T R E N D S | w w w.elrestaurante.com |

Tropical Fruit on the Menu The Sweet Potential of Mexican Desserts Driving Food Truck Profits PRSRT STD U.S. POSTAGE PAID BOLINGBROOK, IL PERMIT NO. 467

!"#$%&'#$(%)$*+,-.$/01'.23$4%5-.+23$6',7.2$,&-$8)19.2:$!"#$50,($#%"$&..-:$ ;.($(0.$'%5.2($<+.1*0($9%2(2$,=,1',>'.:$8,=.$71(90.&$',>%+$9%2(:$$!"#$-.?2(.@@.-$/01'.A$ B0.$/01'.$;"#$0,2$>..&$0.')1&*$6%%-$8.+=19.$9%@),&1.2$<%+$%=.+$CD$#.,+2$1&$-.,'1&*$51(0$,''$%<$ (0.$9%2($.'.@.&(2$1&$#%"+$2"))'#$90,1&:$$$E=.+#$'1&.$1(.@$12$1@)%+(,&($<+%@$(0.$<1.'-$(%$(0.$(,>'.$ ,&-$5.$,+.$.F).+(2$,($@,F1@1G1&*$9%2($2,=1&*2$,'%&*$(0.$.&ti+.$2"))'#$90,1&:$$$ /,''$"2$,&-$5.$51''$0.')$#%"$<1&-$(0.$+1*0($+.91).$<%+$<1*0(1&*$1&<',(1%&:

!"#$%&'$()"*$+,-)$#($.,/-#&001$2345$"/$6"+'0"&6$"#/$&**$7"/$#*6&-8($"'$-)8$0&-8(-$'8+($&'6$*/"6#%-(9 Our pricing ensures you have the best possible spices and chiles for your customers. All products FMSA compliant, approved by the FDA and Kosher certified. Frozen products are PACA compliant for your satisfaction.

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elRestaurante | YO U R S O U R C E F O R M E X I C A N A N D L AT I N F O O D S E R V I C E T R E N D S | w w w.elrestaurante.c o m |

In This Issue 6

HOTLINE — Congratulating James Beard Award Finalists

COVER STORY — Tropical Fruit on the Menu

MENU MARKETING — The Sweet Potential of Mexican Desserts

SNAPSHOT — Fiesta Tapatia, Granger, Indiana

BUSINESS BASICS — Driving Food Truck Profits (in English and Spanish)

AT THE BAR — A Twist of the Tropics (in English and Spanish)

MARKETPLACE (in English and Spanish)

RECIPES

MY FAVORITE RECIPE — Takito Street

22 38

ON THE WEB AT www.elrestaurante.com Want more great recipes? Visit elrestaurante.com/recipes to find something for every section of your menu! 26

editor’s note

elRestaurante | w w w.elrestaurante.com |

Happy Trade Show Season! It has been a long time since I’ve been able to say those words — and after a 2-year hiatus, it is nice to utter them with confidence. We’re excited that we’ll be able to see our advertisers, readers, prospective subscribers, and many restaurant industry friends in person at the trade events Kathleen Furore, editor

we’ll be attending this spring and summer. In May, we’ll be at the National Restaurant Show in Chicago (Booth 5421); in June, you’ll find us at the Texas Restaurant Marketplace in Dallas (Booth 1634); and in August, we’ll be at the Western Foodservice Show in Anaheim, California (Booth 1015). Be sure to stop by and say “Hi” and pick up a copy of the special recipe booklet we’re creating to celebrate our 25th anniversary if you’re at any of those events. With spring and summer in mind, our thoughts have turned to warm-weather menus. Your customers’ minds likely have, too, as they get ready for the outdoor dining season. In this issue, we’re serving up ideas for dishes and drinks like Corvina Ceviche and Ponche de Guauyaba featuring tropical produce like mangos, pineapple, star fruit, dragon fruit, guava, and coconut that can freshen your menu throughout the warm months ahead. You’ll also find stories that explain why you should reconsider your approach to desserts (hint: it’s about profit potential), and things to consider if you’re thinking about getting into the food truck business. As always, feel free to drop us a note to let us know what you think of the issue and to share any ideas you have for topics you’d like us to cover in upcoming issues. You can send messages to me at kfurore@restmex.com.

el restaurante | APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2022

Ed Avis PUBLISHER Kathleen Furore EDITOR Ala Ennes ART DIRECTOR Elyse Glickman CONTRIBUTING WRITERS MAIN OFFICE phone: 708.267.0023 PRESS RELEASES TO: kfurore@restmex.com MAILING ADDRESS P.O. Box 13347 Chicago, IL 60613 SHIPPING ADDRESS 1317 W. Belden Ave. Chicago, IL 60614 AD SALES/ENGLISH Ed Avis 708.218.7755 edavis@elrestaurante.com Suzanne Bernhardt 678.880.9282 suzanne@elrestaurante.com AD SALES/ESPAÑOL Alfredo Espinola alfredo@elrestaurante.com Published by Maiden Name Press, LLC Volume 25, Number 2

el Restaurante (formerly el Restaurante Mexicano) (ISSN 1091-5885) is published five times a year by Maiden Name Press, LLC 1317 W. Belden Ave., Chicago, IL 60614 el Restaurante is distributed by subscription at the cost of $40. All contents copyright© 2022 Maiden Name Press, LLC. Nothing in this issue may be reproduced in any form without publisher’s consent.

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CASA VEGA:

A 2022 America’s Classic On February 16, The James Beard Foundation (JBF) announced the six recipients of its 2022 America’s Classics Award, which is given to locally owned restaurants that have timeless appeal and are beloved regionally for quality food that reflects the character of its community. Casa Vega in Sherman Oaks, California — the lone Mexican restaurant honored — joins the ranks of more than 100 restaurants across the country that have received the award since the category was introduced in 1998. This short profile of Casa Vega, taken from the JBF announcement, explains why the restaurant won the award: “When Rafael ‘Ray’ Vega opened Casa Vega restaurant in 1956, he helped popularize Mexican food in the San Fernando Valley. Countless diners discovered albondigas, enchiladas, sweet corn tamales, and tostadas in the tufted red leather booths. From its opening night, Casa Vega has been a family-run business where everyone is welcome, and every patron is made to feel at home. Rafael passed in 2021 from complications due to COVID-19, but his legacy lives on

James Beard Announces Restaurant and Chef Awards Finalists Mexican/Latin-themed restaurants made a big showing on the list of finalists for the 2022 James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards. The finalists were announced in mid-March, and winners will be announced at an award ceremony on Monday, June 13, 2022, at the Lyric Opera of Chicago. el Restaurante congratulates all of the finalists and looks forward to featuring interviews and recipes from many of them in upcoming issues.

through his daughter Christina “Christy” Vega, who worked side-by-side with her father for 15 years before taking over the business in 2012. With her restaurant, Christy helps support the greater Latin American community in Los Angeles and beyond, partnering with organizations such as No Us Without You, a nonprofit that provides support for undocumented hospitality workers.” Congratulations to Casa Vega and the entire team who have helped make the restaurant a success!

Emerging Chef Edgar Rico, Nixta Taqueria, Austin

Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic Cristina Martinez, South Philly Barbacoa, Philadelphia

Best New Restaurant Bacanora, Phoenix BARDA, Detroit Ursula, NYC

Best Chef Midwest Gregory León, Amilinda, Milwaukee

Outstanding Pastry Chef Margarita Manzke, République, Los Angeles Ruben Ortega, Xochi, Houston Outstanding Baker Don Guerra, Barrio Bread, Tucson, AZ

Best Chef: Mountain Jose Avila, El Borrego Negro, Denver Best Chef: Southeast Katie Button, Cúrate, Asheville, NC Best Chef: Southwest Fernando Olea, Sazón, Santa Fe

Outstanding Hospitality Hugo’s, Houston

Salazar Brothers, La Guelaguetza, Albuquerque, NM

Outstanding Bar Program barmini by José Andrés, Washington, D.C.

Best Chef Texas Iliana de la Vega, El Naranjo, Austin

For more information about the awards, visit jamesbeard.org.

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SAVE THE DATE: Tasting Texas Wine + Food Festival Coming This Fall Tasting Texas Wine + Food Festival, a festival designed to showcase renowned and up-and-coming chefs from Texas as well as national allstars, will light up several locations in San Antonio October 27-30, 2022. The festival is a partnership between Visit San Antonio, the James Beard Foundation, and Culinaria (a company that operates food and wine events in Central Texas). Proceeds from Tasting Texas will benefit the James Beard

The Optimal Automatics Autodoner is ideal for preparing cones of al pastor and other stacked meats. Comes in many sizes and models, including natural gas, electric, and LP.

Foundation’s scholarship programs, which in turn, provide opportunities for underserved culinary talent to develop their skills and experience. The festival’s highlight will be the “big-as-Texas” Culinary Market October 28-30 that will feature more than 100 awardwinning chefs at the historic Travis Park in downtown San Antonio. A made-for-San Antonio top-shelf tequila tasting on the banks of the San Antonio River Walk is scheduled for October 29. A variety of ticketed, nightly curated collaborations by visiting chefs also are on tap. Culinary headliners will include: • Rick Bayless (Chicago), Michelin Star, Top Chef Master, and James Beard Awards-winning celebrity chef • Steve McHugh (San Antonio), four-time James Beard Award Nominee for Best Chef: Southwest, and James Beard Finalist for Best Chef: Texas • Esaul Ramos Jr. (San Antonio), Texas Monthly’s 50 Best BBQ Joints Honoree, and James Beard Award Semifinalist for Best Chef: Texas • Emiliano Marentes (El Paso), James Beard Award Semifinalist for Best Chef: Texas; featured on Hulu’s “Taste the Nation with Padma Lakshmi” and Texas Monthly’s “The Ultimate Texas Tacopedia” • Alex Raij (New York), James Beard Awards Semifinalist for Best Chef in America, and Nominee for Outstanding Restaurateur • Finn Walter (Lubbock), James Beard Award Semifinalist for Best Chef: Texas The full roster of chefs and a full festival schedule will be announced this summer. To learn more, and to receive news and advance ticket purchase opportunities, visit CulinariaSA.org.

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TACO CABANA:

Refreshing and Growing, But Staying Loyal to Tex-Mex Roots

Shrimp Tampico Taco and Quesadilla

| BY ED AVIS | Taco Cabana is

vate, those services and struc-

prototype is that we are going

Pineapple Chipotle Salsa, and

on the move. The fast-casual

ture have been rebuilt.

to have the option of adding

adding Beef Picadillo Flautas

multi-unit with about 150 loca-

“We needed to build a more

a double drive-through and

and a new Jalapeño Salsa. All

tions changed hands last August

robust structure in HQ, and now

a merging lane to maximize

new menu items are designed

and is now refreshing itself for a

that we’ve accomplished that,

the potential of drive-through

to be operationally friendly.

post-COVID growth spurt.

we can start talking about grow-

sales,” Camacho says. “Another

“We can’t add a prod-

ing and how quickly we’ll grow,”

one of the options in the new

uct that is too complicated,

cally and we’re building our

“We’re going to grow organi-

Camacho says. “We expect to

prototype will be a small patio,

because at the end of the

franchising structure to also

add 10 locations in 2022.”

or there is the option to con-

day we are measured on the

vert the dining room into a

standards of quick service,” Camacho says.

grow in that path,” says Ulyses Camacho, the company’s chief

Expanding the Brand

patio environment where the

operating officer.

Growth will occur mostly in

weather permits.”

Taco Cabana was founded

Houston, Dallas and San Antonio,

The restaurant recently com-

Although the menu has gone through an upgrade, one

in 1978 in San Antonio, where

Camacho predicts, though

pleted an internal analysis of

thing hasn’t changed: it con-

its headquarters remains. The

eventually the company hopes

its supply chain and packaging

tinues to reinforce the restau-

restaurant, together with Pollo

to expand nationally. There are

in hopes of optimizing those

rant’s Tex-Mex roots, Camacho

Tropical, was part of publicly

currently six franchised locations

areas. That analysis did not

stresses.

traded Fiesta Restaurant Group

in New Mexico, the only locations

result in any changes to its food

from 2012 until it was pur-

outside of Texas and the only

suppliers, though the transi-

for 14 years and I have run

chased by Yadav Enterprises for

franchised locations.

tion to private ownership has

every position, and I can tell

$85 million in August 2021.

The new locations may look

“I’ve been in this company

allowed Taco Cabana to rene-

you that where Taco Cabana

a little different from current

gotiate contracts with those

stands today in terms of identi-

Restaurant Group created both

Taco Cabanas. A new prototype

suppliers, Camacho notes.

ty, and where it’s going, is very

challenges and opportuni-

— one that recognizes that

ties, Camacho says. When Taco

customers in the post-COVID

Retooling the Menu

“After a lot of feedback, both

Cabana was part of Fiesta, it

world may be more apt to use

In keeping with its refresh

internal and external, we know

benefited from many shared

the drive-through or eat on

and grow strategy, Taco

that’s what’s going to carry

services and a well-established

the patio — is currently on the

Cabana also has updated its

Taco Cabana forward. Tex-Mex

headquarters. In the months

drawing board.

menu, bringing back the fan-

is where it all started 44 years

favorite Shrimp Tampico with

ago, it’s our legacy.”

Separating from Fiesta

since taking the company pri-

“One main thing about the

el restaurante | APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2022

clear: Tex-Mex,” Camacho says.

hotline

AVAILABILITY DOWN, PRICES UP:

How are Mexican Restaurants Coping? | BY ED AVIS | John Mayes is so used to

PRICES A PROBLEM

products being out of stock at his distribu-

Not only are many things out of stock; prices are climbing rapidly, too. For example:

tor that it hardly bothers him anymore. “Every week it seems there is something that is either short, delayed in shipping, or out of stock,” says Mayes, vice president of operations at El Toro Mexican Restaurants, which has six locations in Texas. “It’s funny, we have now just gotten used to it and roll with the punches. Out-of-stocks in the past were usually not a friendly phone call, but now it is usually, ‘Okay, what else you got?’” The supply chain problems plaguing the world started with COVID and are now being exacerbated by the war in Ukraine. So many factors are affecting the supply chain — high fuel prices, labor shortages, increased storm activity — that nearly every restaurant product is being affected. “We’re talking about all categories, not only food,” notes Pepe Stepensky, owner of Porkyland Mexican Grill in San Diego and four other restaurants. “Paper goods are also in the list of shortages…Sometimes you order three or four boxes of a product and (the distributor) sends you just one because they have to share what they have with other customers.”

• Avocados: Prices spiked to their highest level in two decades after Mexican avocado imports were temporarily halted in late March due to a threat to a USDA inspector. Prices hit $38 per 9-kilogram box, which was 81 percent more than a year ago, according to U.S. government data. • Chicken: Wholesale chicken breast climbed to $2.70 per pound in March, 38 percent higher than last year and the highest price in at least two decades, according to Gro Intelligence. The chicken supply problem has been exacerbated by the avian flu outbreak and higher feed costs. • Tortillas: Prices climbed 8 percent over the past year, according to the Producer Price Index from the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. Tortilla prices are at their highest level since the government started tracking those prices in 1991.

HOW RESTAURANTS ARE COPING

“Every week it seems there is something that is either short, delayed in shipping, or out of stock. It’s funny, we have now just gotten used to it and roll with the punches. Out-of-stocks in the past were usually not a friendly phone call, but now it is usually, ‘Okay, what else you got?” — JOHN MAYES, El Toro Mexican Restaurants when his distributor is out. Stepensky does the same thing: “We run all over the city to smaller or local suppliers to get what we need.” As far as dealing with higher costs, many restaurants are increasing menu prices. According to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, prices for food away from home jumped 6.4 percent during 2021, the highest rate of increase since 1982. Increasing menu prices obviously helps lessen the impact of higher supplies costs, but that strategy can also reduce the number of customers. “Prices are sky high, but there is a

To lessen the impact of shortages, Mayes

limit to how much we can charge our

says he has been buying larger quantities

customers,” Stepensky notes.

of some items such as to-go packaging

Is relief on the horizon? COVID restric-

when he can and stores them in his com-

tions in most of the world have eased, so

pany’s warehouse. He also tries to keep

more workers may be entering the labor

two suppliers of each product on his list

force, which should improve some supply

of partners.

issues. But most of the other problems

“This way if one can’t get you what you need, then the other might be able to

show no signs of abating. “We can expect the current problems to

help,” he says. “I have found that rarely are

linger for at least another 12 to 18 months

they both out of an item.”

in the short term,” predicts Gary Nowacki,

Searching among smaller local

CEO of TraceGains, an food ingredient

suppliers is another strategy. Mayes says

sourcing platform. “But, of course, this

he has been sourcing some dairy products

assumes the Ukraine conflict doesn’t drag

from Sam’s Club and local grocery stores

on into 2023.”

tropical fruit ON THE MENU

| COVER STORY |

Red Mesa Mercado’s Plantain Bowl with Tofu

| BY KATHLEEN FURORE | Ask Chris Fernandez, corporate executive chef for Red Mesa Restaurant Group in St. Petersburg, Florida, about the role tropical fruit plays on the menus he creates for the group’s Red Mesa Cantina, Red Mesa Mercado and Red Mesa Restaurant, and he is quick to respond. “We use all year around as much tropical fruit as we can to make margaritas, sangrias, aguas frescas and salsas using mangos, guava, pitaya, passionfruit, star fruit and granada,” says Fernandez, who recently featured Ceviche Corvina with star fruit, ruby red grapefruit, chicharron and avocado on the specials’ menu at Red Mesa Cantina. Plantains are also a go-to in dishes like Red Mesa Restaurant’s Cuban style Palomilla Steak served with sweet plantains and tamarind aioli, and Red Mesa Mercado’s popular Plantain Bowl.

“We love using tropical, sweet fruits that pair so well with chile peppers. The flavor profile of sweet and spicy is great for summer!” – PEPE BARAJAS, El Solazo

APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2022

| el restaurante

| COVER STORY |

“Lately we have seen shortages on product and price increases due to labor shortage in the last couple months. We work very hard with our local produce vendors to make sure we have our product on hand most of the time and communicate with them when there are changes. When this happens, we let our customer know that we will be having menu changes and substitutions for a short period of time and constantly we keep in communication with staff to make sure everyone is aware of the issue.”

El Solazo’s Chocolate Tres Leches with Guava Gelato

– CHRIS FERNANDEZ, Red Mesa Restaurant Group El Solazo’s Filete de Pescado with Pico de Piña

“In the summer, our Plantain Bowl at Mercado sells extremely well since it is all vegetarian friendly,” he says of the dish made with plantains, black bean corn salsa, rice, avocado slices and mango salsa. With all the options chefs can turn to, it’s easy to transform tropical fruit into favorite dishes for every section of the menu. Take the menu at Chicago’s El Solazo: Diners there can start with an appetizer of Grilled Pineapple Guacamole, feast on an entrée of Filete de Pescado with Pico de Piña, then finish the meal with a Chocolate Tres Leches accompanied by Guava Gelato. “Those dishes are absolutely popular with our guests,” reports owner Pepe Barajas, who says new dishes like a passionfruit ceviche and strawberry guacamole are on tap for the summer menu.

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| COVER STORY |

“We love using tropical, sweet fruits that pair so well with chile peppers. The flavor profile of sweet and spicy is great for summer! Our customers also love our al pastor with charred pineapple. “ Fernandez also likes combining sweet and spicy flavors, which he does in his Passion Fruit and Habanero Chile Butter Sauce.

CONNECTING WITH CONSUMERS

Don’t Let Seeds Go To Waste

Mangos are among the most popular fruits used in Mexican and Latin restaurant kitchens. Don’t let the seeds from those mangos go to waste! As the National Mango Board notes, there are a variety of uses for mango seeds, especially when there’s “lots of tasty fruit still hanging on to the seed.”

Customers across the board are embracing exotic and tropical fruit and unique fruit flavors, according to “Exotic Fruit Flavor Profiles - 2022 Trend Bite” report from McCormick FONA, which shows that 57 percent of U.S. fruit consumers show interest in exotic fresh fruits, while 66 percent of consumers are eating a greater variety of ethnic foods today, FONA reports. What’s fueling the trend? According to FONA: •

More consumers are thinking and acting like foodies, providing opportunity for colorful dishes and adventurous taste experiences.

•

Increasingly adventurous American palates are driving desire for authentic dishes and ethnic cuisine.

•

Experimentation with flavor while at home during COVID-19 has created openness to new flavors.

•

Trendy and fun opportunities for social media inspire innovation. Case in point: The FONA report tracked 175.6M views on TikTok with the hashtag #exoticfruit and 194k posts on Instagram.

Here are just a few examples of how to turn seeds into something special in your restaurant kitchen or behind the bar: •

•

Make mole. One example is a traditional Mexican mole made by simmering the sauce with mango seeds. The sauce is featured in Chicken with Mango Mole and Pepitas, a recipe The Culinary Institute of American created for the National Mango Board. (See the recipe at bit.ly/Chicken_Mango_2022.) Create infused alcohol or shrubs. These are great for bar drinks! Mango seed-infused vodka, for example, is the secret ingredient in the National Mango Board’s The Secret of the Tropics Cocktail. (See the recipe on page 54.) Make syrup. Crespo Organic recommends using mango pits to make Mango Pit Syrup, a tropical-perfumed simple syrup to use in cocktails, drinks, teas and sparkling water. (See the recipe at bit.ly/Mango_Pit.)

el restaurante | APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2022

“In addition, many consumers believe exotic and tropical fruit flavors have perceived health benefits like immune system health, relaxation and more,” information from FONA says. (continued on page 21)

SPECIAL INTENSIVE USE

El Solazo’s Grilled Pineapple Guacamole

What do your customers think about the myriad varieties of tropical fruit? Here’s some insight: McCormick FONA broke the varieties into four categories, then asked consumers to rate each fruit on a 5-point scale from “Dislike Very Much to Like Very Much.” Familiar

Starfruit ............. 3.22

Kumquat............. 2.88

Pineapple .......... 4.07

Prickly Pear ....... 2.99

Persimmon ....... 2.88

Mango ................ 3.87

Tamarind ........... 2.98

Rambutan ......... 2.70

Passionfruit ........ 3.70

Lychee ................ 2.74

Super Exotic

Banana ............... 3.69

Plantain.............. 2.64

Feijoa .................. 3.16

Blood Orange .. 3.64

Yuzu .................... 2.63

Soursop ............. 3.01

Kiwi ..................... 3.61

Avocado ............ 2.60

Kiwano Horned

Coconut ............. 3.58

Extra Exotic

Melon ................. 2.84

Pomegranate ... 3.57

Calamansi ......... 3.26

Tamarillo ........... 2.82

Meyer Lemon ... 3.50

Casaba Melon .. 3.04

Mamey ............... 2.76

Key Lime ............ 3.45

Cloudberry ....... 2.99

Cherimoya ......... 2.74

Exotic

Pomelo............... 2.99

Jujube ................ 2.73

Guava ................. 3.37

Makrut Lime ..... 2.98

Paw Paw ............ 2.70

Dragon Fruit ..... 3.33

Mangosteen .... 2.92

Lucuma .............. 2.67

Papaya................ 3.32

Jackfruit ............. 2.91

Cupuacu ............ 2.65

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MORE PRODUCTIVITY!

APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2022

| el restaurante

HONOR YOUR

MANAGERS!

THE SEVENTH ANNUAL

el Restaurante

MANAGER OF THE YEAR AWARD Sponsored by Gordo’s Foodservice

NOMINATE YOUR BEST MANAGERS TODAY! Every manager nominated will receive a certificate honoring the nomination and will be named in the Nov/Dec 2022 issue of el Restaurante. Award winners will receive cash prizes and be profiled in el Restaurante. There is no cost to nominate a manager.

FOR MORE DETAILS AND TO ENTER: VISIT

www.elrestaurante.com/2022-manager-contest

| COVER STORY |

(comtinued on page 18)

Red Mesa Cantina’s Ceviche Corvina

57 percent of U.S. fruit consumers show interest in exotic fresh fruits, and 66 percent of consumers are eating a greater variety of ethnic foods today. – “EXOTIC FRUIT FLAVOR PROFILES - 2022 TREND BITE,” McCormick FONA

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SUPPLY CHAIN CHALLENGES As popular as these fruits have become, and as much as chefs want to incorporate them into their menus, supply chain issues can pose problems. “Lately we have seen shortages on product and price increases due to labor shortage in the last couple months,” Fernandez says. “We work very hard with our local produce vendors to make sure we have our product on hand most of the time and communicate with them when there are changes. When this happens, we let our customer know that we will be having menu changes and substitutions for a short period of time and constantly we keep in communication with staff to make sure everyone is aware of the issue.” Timing also can be a concern, Barajas notes. “Because of seasonality and transitioning from seasons, it takes time to find certain tropical fruits that are ripe enough to use in the dishes,” he says. “We will just use fruits that are generally in season until they become available.” That approach also helps manage things from a cost perspective, he adds. “Fruits that are always readily available most of the year will keep prices down,” Barajas says. “For us this includes pineapples, oranges, apples and strawberries to name a few.” Kathleen Furore is the editor of el Restaurante. See recipes for Fernandez’s Corvina Ceviche and his Passion Fruit and Habanero Chile Butter Sauce on page 53.

APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2022

| el restaurante

menu marketing

THE SWEET POTENTIAL OF

Mexican Desserts | BY ED AVIS | Jan Mendelson, executive

chef of La Puerta Azul in Millbrook, New York, offers a variety of desserts on his menu, ranging from traditional favorites like churros to creative options such as the Piloncillo Pecan Pie. He feels it is important to menu desserts because they make customers happy. But when the dollars are counted at the end of a shift, Mendelson’s desserts are not living up to their profit potential. “It’s very therapeutic for me to make desserts, but our dessert sales are nowhere near where we’d like them to be,” Mendelson says. “Probably about 20 percent of tables buy a dessert, but only about 5 to 10 percent of customers. Most often they get an order of churros for the table.” La Puerta Azul’s Churros

Mendelson’s experience with desserts is not unusual. According to an el Restaurante reader survey conducted in March, more than 80 percent of Mexican/Latin restaurants always menu desserts, but for the majority of them – 59 percent – fewer than one quarter of customers order one. Piloncillo Pecan Pie

TAPPING THE PROFIT POTENTIAL While dessert sales aren’t soaring at most Mexican restaurants, the profit potential in the category does exist. Mendelson says churros are the most popular dessert his customers order. He estimates that his food cost for one order of churros is about 50 cents — but the menu price is $9. That means he’s grossing $8.50 per order. He estimates about the same margin for his nextbest-selling dessert, fried ice cream. Labor costs for some desserts eat into that margin, of course, but in most cases, desserts can be made in advance during slow times and plated only when they’re ordered. Mendelson says he usually makes a week’s worth of desserts on Wednesday and Thursday as he prepares for the weekend. They are served throughout the weekend and usually are sold out by Monday or Tuesday. “I don’t like to sell them for longer than a week, and that seems to be about the perfect timing,” he says. Another way to keep labor costs down is to menu simpler desserts, Mendelson adds. “Despite the fun I have making interesting desserts, it’s important to keep it simple. The things the majority of customers want is what they associate with Mexican food, like churros, flan or fried ice cream.”

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Our Survey Says... Results from an el Restaurante reader survey conducted in March 2022 revealed the following information about how our readers approach desserts in their restaurants. DO YOU HAVE DESSERTS ON YOUR MENU? Yes, all the time = 81% Yes, but only sometimes = 11% No = 8%

El Aguila’s Tres Leches with Chocolate Mousse

However, since only 5 to 10 percent of La Puerta Azul customers order desserts, those sales are not substantially affecting the restaurant’s bottom line — but they can. The el Restaurante dessert survey revealed that selling desserts adds 10 to 20 percent to the bill for the majority of restaurants, and about 20 percent of respondents said desserts add more than that. The bottom line is that selling more desserts would make the work of creating them worthwhile.

TIPS FOR SWEETENING SALES WHAT PERCENTAGE OF YOUR CUSTOMERS ORDER DESSERT? Zero to 10 percent = 27% 11 to 25 percent = 32% 26 to 50 percent = 32% 51 to 75 percent = 2% More than 75 percent = 7% WHEN A CUSTOMER ORDERS DESSERT, HOW MUCH DOES THAT INCREASE THE CHECK? Less than 10 percent = 20% 10 to 20 percent = 60% 21 to 30 percent = 13% More than 30 percent = 7%

How can you sell more desserts? As with any menu item, your servers are probably your most effective sales tool. “Ideally, the floor staff is trying to sell desserts,” Mendelson says. “We’ve learned that once we get customers to try some of the less familiar desserts — like Dulce de Leche Empañadas or the Piloncillo Pecan Pie — other customers react, and the servers get behind it and sell more. But getting those first sales can be hard.” Another option is to create a dessert cart or tray. As a meal winds down, the server rolls the dessert cart or carries the tray to the table. Having the sweets in front of customers often stimulates a sale that otherwise might

el restaurante | APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2022

not have happened. And as the server passes through the dining room with the cart or tray, other customers see it and start craving desserts. A dessert case or table near the entrance can have a similar, salesbuilding effect: Customers see it as they enter and start thinking about ordering dessert even before they sit down. Creativity also can positively impact dessert sales. The el Restaurante survey revealed that the most common desserts served at Mexican/ Latin restaurants are exactly what one would expect – flan, churros, tres leches cake and fried ice cream. Many respondents, however, reported that they menu more innovative desserts, too: sopapillas, fried plantains, sweet empañadas and various types of cakes are a few they mentioned. And a few reported being even more creative, with items such as Margarita Pie, Kahlua Chocolate Mousse, Capirotada (bread pudding), Apple Pie Enchiladas, Xangos (cheesecake chimichangas), Delicia de Calabeza (pumpkin spice ice box cake), and vegan conches. Ultimately, offering dessert may be part of the bigger dining picture. Some customers want dessert and don’t feel like their meal is complete without it — and they may not return if they’re not totally satisfied. “I think that a delicious dessert is such a great way to finish a great meal,” says Giorgia Scardini, owner of El Aguila Mexican Cuisine in Pleasant Hill, California. Scardini’s bestselling desserts are cheesecake, flan and Mexican wedding cookies, but she also creates a weekly special, such as corn cake, tres leches with chocolate mousse, or carrot cake topped with meringue. “Featuring a great dessert is important for me. I’m Italian and we always end our meals with a sweet bite! And if it helps the profit, why not?”

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snapshot

Turning Obstacles into

OPPORTUNITIES | BY KATHLEEN FURORE |

A dessert cart greeted guests at the soft opening on March 13.

Weathering the challenges of Covid-19 was something every restaurant faced. But for Fiesta Tapatia in Granger, Indiana, the pandemic was only the beginning of two years filled with obstacles to overcome. In April 2021, just as the restaurant was beginning to rebound from the Covid shutdown, owner Rodolfo Quiroz and Manager Pati Quiroz discovered — in a quite roundabout way — that the building in Mishawaka, Indiana that had housed Fiesta Tapatia for 20 years was being sold to make way for a 7-Eleven gas station and convenience store. As Pati told The South Bend Tribune in April 2021, a customer had heard the restaurant would be displaced and asked her where Fiesta Tapatia planned to move. After confirming the news, the search for a new location began. Rodolfo and Pati decided on a shuttered retail space a few miles away in Granger, even though it would require a complete renovation and higher rent. Plans were underway to

move in in December 2021, when a new obstacle hit: a water leak forced Fiesta Tapatia to abandon its original location months before the Granger space was ready. Then construction problems at the new location delayed the move even further. “There were several times where we just wanted to give up and forget about starting all over again,” Pati says. “We kept running into problem after problem once we found out we had to find a new location in such a short period of time. But we knew everything was happening for a reason — we just had to wait and see what that reason was.” And there were positives that lifted the team’s spirits during the ordeal. “We truly never realized the great customer following we had until we were closed for 10 months,” Pati says. “Our customers kept us going. Seeing those daily messages from customers telling us how much they missed us, how much they missed our food — all of their encouraging messages helped us stay motivated to

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“There were several times where we just wanted to give up and forget about starting all over again. We kept running into problem after problem once we found out we had to find a new location in such a short period of time. But keep going. We are truly we knew everything was blessed with some of the happening for a reason — most amazing customers.” we just had to wait and TACKLING NEW CHALLENGES see what that reason was.” While business has been – PATI QUIROZ

great — a full house many nights — there have been

many challenges since Fiesta Tapatia’s Grand Opening on March 14. As Pati says, there’s no sugar-coating the situation. “Moving into Granger we knew some people were going to be happy and others

were not going to be happy. Some customers have said the move to Granger has gone to our head with the price increase on our menu,” she says. “I think we can all agree everything has gone up in price. We don’t want to change the quality of our food therefore we had to increase our menu prices... It’s been a little rough.” There’s been a struggle “since day one” to find enough employees to meet the pent-up demand from customers who had been waiting for 10 months to

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enjoy their favorite Fiesta Tapatia dishes. “The first few weeks we were extremely busy. We pretty much have all new employees, and we are all getting used to this new location,” Pati says. “Our kitchen staff was the most understaffed the first few weeks. Fridays and Saturdays we were having to close for two hours in the afternoon to help the kitchen staff catch up and take a little break. Being short staffed was not what our customers were accus-

tomed to. Some customers wouldn’t understand why we had to close for two hours, but we had to look out for those employees and be fair with them. With a bigger location we need three times the employees we had at our old location.” Many customers, however, expressed concern and support. When posts on the restaurant’s Facebook page announced it would be closed for two hours, customers were encouraging and kind: “That’s great management

— valuing the needs of your employees which will ensure a smooth and pleasant visit for your guests” and “Everyone wants to see you succeed. Do what you must until you can get fully staffed. We will wait,” two comments said. After almost two months in business, things are moving ahead. Pati stresses that employees are working hard every day to be able to give the best possible service, and that the Fiesta Tapatia Cantina will be opening as soon as the restaurant’s 3-way

liquor license is approved. “We can’t wait for customers to come in and enjoy a Margarita with their meal,” says Pati, who offers this advice to other restaurateurs facing what might seem to be insurmountable obstacles in today’s challenging business climate. “Things are rough for us restaurant owners with inflation and the lack of employees,” Pati says. “My best advice is to stay positive and motivated. I hope things get better for us all soon!”

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business basics

“If you put a nice wrap on the vehicle, it looks good and they invite you to events. But if you just paint it with house paint, you won’t get invited. Your vehicle is the image of who you want to be.” – JESUS REYES, Wholly Frijoles

But operating a food truck is not easy. The equipment can be expensive, permits are often required, and finding the right location can be tricky. Below are five tips from Jesus Reyes, owner of Wholly Frijoles food truck in Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio (billed as “The One and Only Authentic Build Your Own Burritos, Nachos and Tacos Food Truck & Catering Company in Northeast Ohio”).

Driving Food Truck

PROFITS | BY ED AVIS |

Food trucks are booming in

many cities. The advantages of operating a food truck, such as the ability to easily change locations and serve diners outdoors, were especially apparent during COVID, when most restaurant dining rooms were closed. It’s not surprising that the number of food trucks plying U.S. streets climbed from about 8,000 in 2011 to over 32,000 in 2021, according to study by IBISWorld.

el restaurante | APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2022

Research your market. Before you

invest in a truck, make sure a food truck makes sense in your community. Reyes says that his food truck succeeds by feeding people at weddings, corporate events, and city festivals, but he does not simply park the truck on the street somewhere and hope for customers to wander by. “There’s not enough traffic around here for us to just park the truck on a street,” says Reyes, who has operated the truck for a decade. “It wouldn’t be profitable to do that.” It’s also important to learn about what permits are required in your community and where trucks are allowed to operate. Many communities have strict rules about where trucks can park because they want to protect the business of bricks-and-mortar restaurants. For example, in Chicago, food trucks cannot operate within 200 feet of the entrance of a restaurant, which means most business districts are off-limits to food trucks in the Windy City.

business basics

“If it’s a new event, it’s a risk sometimes. You can make money, you can break even, or you can go into the hole. Event organizers want to get trucks at their events, and sometimes they lie to you and say there will be 2,000 people there, and you show up and there are only 200 people there and seven food trucks...” – JESUS REYES, Wholly Frijoles

Invest in appearance. Serious food

truck operators know that a good-looking, clean, quiet vehicle is important to success. Nobody will hire your food truck for a wedding or corporate event if it looks like your truck just rolled out of the junkyard. “If you put a nice wrap on the vehicle, it looks good and they invite you to events. But if you just paint it with house paint, you won’t get invited. Your vehicle is the image of who you want to be.” Noise is also a consideration, says Reyes, who notes that some truck operators try to save a few bucks by buying a noisy, low-cost generator. That’s a mistake, he adds, because the racket keeps customers away.

Choose your events wisely. After

10 years of operating the food truck, Reyes knows which events are profitable and which are not — and it generally comes down to the number of attendees compared to the number of food trucks. When organizers ask him to bring his truck to a new event, he’s skeptical about the crowd estimates. “If it’s a new event, it’s a risk sometimes,” he says. “You can make money, you can break even, or you can go into the hole. Event organizers want to get trucks at their events, and sometimes they lie to you and say there will be 2,000 people there, and you show up and there are only 200 people there and seven food trucks,” he says. “That works out to only about 30 customers per truck. But you bought food for 300 customers, and you can’t sell it.” Weddings, corporate picnics, and other events like that are

a better risk. In those cases, Reyes says the organizer typically pays him based on the number of guests expected, so he doesn’t have to worry that there won’t be enough people there or too many trucks.

Plan your food supplies carefully. If you run a restaurant, you

already have experience predicting the amount of food you’ll need for a given day or meal period. But with a food truck an important consideration is that health rules in some communities prevent food that was stocked in a food truck from being returned to the restaurant if it’s not sold. “Once it goes out in the truck, it’s garbage,” says Reyes, who prepares all of his burritos, tacos, nachos and other menu items from scratch inside the truck. “You’re not allowed to keep it.”

Market your truck relentlessly.

Just like any food establishment, you can’t expect customers to magically appear just because you have a food truck. Social media is the promotion of choice for food trucks because it can be quickly updated to show the truck’s location on any given day. Reyes uses Facebook, Instagram and Twitter to let loyal customers know what events the Wholly Frijoles truck will be attending. “Normally we post that we are at this location and people will come,” he says. “We try to post on multiple places so we can boost the attendance.” Operating a food truck can be a good extension for your restaurant, but it can also be a money drain. If you do your homework before buying the truck, plan your locations and supplies carefully, and choose your events wisely, your chance of success will be much greater.

business basics

Impulsar las ganancias de los camiones de comida “Si le pones una buena pintura vinílica al vehículo, se ve bien y te invitan a eventos. Pero si lo pintas con pintura de casa, no te invitan. Tu vehículo es la imagen de quién quieres ser”. – JESUS REYES, Wholly Frijoles

| POR ED AVIS | Los camiones de comi-

da están en auge en muchas ciudades. Las ventajas de operar un camión de comida, por ejemplo, la capacidad de cambiar fácilmente de ubicación y atender a los comensales al aire libre, fueron especialmente evidentes durante el COVID, cuando la mayoría de los comedores de los restaurantes estaban cerrados. No es sorprendente que el número de camiones de comida que recorren las calles en Estados Unidos haya aumentado de aproximadamente de 8,000 en 2011 a más de 32,000 en 2021, según un estudio de IBISWorld. Pero operar un camión de comida

el restaurante | APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2022

no es fácil. El equipo puede ser caro, a menudo se requieren permisos, y encontrar la ubicación correcta puede ser complicado. A continuación, se presentan cinco consejos de Jesus Reyes, propietario de Wholly Frijoles, un camión de comida en Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio (considerado “El único y auténtico camión de comida y catering para preparar tus propios burritos, nachos y tacos en el noreste de Ohio”).

Investiga tu mercado. Antes de

invertir en un camión, asegúrate de que un camión de comida tenga sentido en tu comunidad. Reyes

dice que su camión de comida tiene éxito porque da de comer a la gente en bodas, eventos corporativos y festivales de la ciudad, pero no se limita a estacionar el camión en algún lugar de la calle y esperar que los clientes pasen por allí. “Aquí no hay suficiente tráfico para estacionar el camión en una calle”, dice Reyes, quien ha operado el camión durante una década. “No sería rentable hacer eso”. También es importante saber qué permisos son necesarios en tu comunidad y dónde tienen permitido operar los camiones. Muchas comunidades tienen reglas estrictas sobre dónde pueden estacionarse los camiones, porque quieren proteger el negocio de los restaurantes de ladrillo y cemento. Por ejemplo, en Chicago, los camiones de comida no pueden operar a menos de 200 pies (60 m) de la entrada de un restaurante, lo que significa que la mayoría de los distritos comerciales están fuera de los límites de los camiones de comida en la Ciudad de los Vientos.

business basics

“Si es un evento nuevo, a veces es un riesgo. Puedes ganar dinero, puedes quedar a mano, o puedes irte al hoyo. Los organizadores de eventos quieren llevar camiones a sus eventos, y a veces te mienten y dicen que habrá 2,000 personas; llegas y solo hay 200 personas y siete camiones de comida…” – JESUS REYES, Wholly Frijoles

Invierte en su aspecto.

Los operadores de camiones de comida que se lo toman en serio saben que un vehículo atractivo, limpio y silencioso es importante para tener éxito. Nadie contratará tu camión de comida para una boda o un evento corporativo si parece que tu camión acaba de salir del depósito de chatarra. “Si le pones una buena pintura vinílica al vehículo, se ve bien y te invitan a eventos. Pero si lo pintas con pintura de casa, no te invitan. Tu vehículo es la imagen de quién quieres ser”. El ruido también se debe considerar, dice Reyes, quien señala que algunos camioneros tratan de ahorrarse unos cuantos dólares comprando un generador ruidoso y de bajo costo. Eso es un error, agrega, porque el ruido aleja a los clientes.

Elige bien tus eventos. Después

de 10 años de operar el camión de comida, Reyes sabe cuáles eventos son rentables y cuáles no, y generalmente se resume en el número de asistentes en comparación con el número de camiones. Cuando los organizadores le piden que lleve su camión a un nuevo evento, se muestra escéptico sobre el público que se calcula. “Si es un evento nuevo, a veces es un riesgo”, dice. “Puedes ganar dinero, puedes quedar a mano, o puedes irte al hoyo. Los organizadores de eventos quieren llevar camiones a sus eventos, y a veces te mienten y dicen que habrá 2,000 personas; llegas y solo hay 200 personas y siete camiones de comida”, dice. “Eso es para unos 30 clientes por camión. Pero compraste comida para 300 clientes y no puedes venderla.” Bodas, picnics corporativos y otros eventos como ese son un riesgo más aceptable. En esos casos, Reyes dice que el organizador generalmente le paga en función del número de

el restaurante | APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2022

invitados que se espera, para no tener que preocuparse de que no haya suficiente gente o que haya demasiados camiones.

Planea cuidadosamente tus suministros. Si diriges un restaurante, ya

tienes experiencia en predecir la cantidad de comida que necesitarás para un día o periodo de comida determinado. Pero con un camión de comida, una consideración importante es que las reglas de salud en algunas comunidades impiden que los alimentos que se almacenaron en un camión de comida se devuelvan al restaurante si no se venden. “Una vez que sale dentro del camión, es basura”, dice Reyes, quien prepara todos sus burritos, tacos, nachos y otros elementos del menú desde cero dentro del camión. “No se te permite guardarlo”.

Promociona tu camión sin descanso. Al igual que cualquier

establecimiento de comida, no puedes esperar que los clientes aparezcan mágicamente solo porque tienes un camión de comida. Las redes sociales son la promoción preferida de los camiones de comida porque se pueden actualizar rápidamente para mostrar la ubicación del camión en un día determinado. Facebook, Instagram y Twitter permiten a los clientes leales saber a qué eventos asistirá el camión de Wholly Frijoles. “Normalmente publicamos que estamos en tal lugar y la gente llega”, dice. “Intentamos publicar en varios lugares para aumentar la asistencia”. Operar un camión de comida puede ser una buena extensión de tu restaurante, pero también puede ser una pérdida de dinero. Si haces tu tarea antes de comprar el camión, planea cuidadosamente tus ubicaciones y suministros y elige bien tus eventos, y tus posibilidades de éxito serán mucho mayores.

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at the bar

A TWIST OF THE MIXOLOGISTS USE TROPICAL FRUITS TO FRESHEN SUMMER COCKTAILS Shelby Mastro’s Pink Cloud Cocktail

Tropics | BY ELYSE GLICKMAN | What are the essentials of a tropical vacation? Chances are your customers will point to ocean waves, palm trees, cool breezes, festive patios, and sandy beaches. Many will also say that cocktails made with tropical fruit complete that sunny scene. Whether trying to replicate the feel of an island vacation, or simply adding more flavor and color behind the bar, Mexican restaurant mixologists are exploring new ways to incorporate tropical fruit on their cocktail menus. At Mamacitas Mexican Restaurant in Houston, that exploration is evident in the Dragon Fruit Margarita, the Mango Strawberry Margarita, the Jalisco Pineapple Margarita, and the Mangocita — a high-octane concoction that upscales the traditional house Mango Margarita with an extra shot of tequila and a Tajin-dipped tamarind stick. “The Mangocita is definitely our most popular drink,” says Manager Aureliano Mendoza, who adds that the Dragon Fruit Margarita is also popular, especially during summer.

A TROPICAL COCKTAIL MENU TOUR Some of the same tropical fruits used in Mamacitas’ Margaritas also shine in cocktails that Shelby Mastro has crafted for several restaurants she’s worked for, including the recently closed Franklyn Street Fare in

el restaurante | APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2022

Shelby Mastro’s Mango-rita

Worcester, Massachusetts. “Margaritas sell themselves, but that doesn’t stop me from changing up the flavor as often as I can,” reports Mastro, who now runs the bar at the Worcester Beer Garden in Worcester, and also is the beverage director/pro contributor for Crafted Pour, an online source for cocktail enthusiasts. During summer, Mastro favors mango, pineapple and passionfruit to “change up the flavor.” Her Mangorita — made with tequila, The Perfect Puree’s mango puree, orange-mango juice, sour mix and jalapeño slices, then accented with pieces of dried spicy mangoes and black lava salt — is one refreshing, eye-catching example. Mastro also is a fan of using dragon fruit, which she features in her Gold Dragon Cocktail (ghost pepper tequila, muddled yellow dragon fruit, grated

1½ oz Tito’s Handmade Vodka ½ oz orange liqueur 2 oz lime juice ¼ oz agave

Add all ingredients to a shaker with ice. Shake and strain into a glass with or without fresh ice. Garnish with a lime slice. Pro-Tip: If you like it salty, use a glass with a salt rim.

at the bar

Make it a Mocktail Non-alcoholic bar drinks are playing a larger-than-ever role on menus nationwide. Kacie Lambert, beverage manager at Gracias Madre in Newport Beach, California, has created two unique mocktails to tap into the trend. In addition to the Piña made with chili mango tea (described in the cocktail story), Lambert created the Naranja for the restaurant’s “Dry January” menu. It sold so well that it now has a permanent place on the menu. “This cocktail is nostalgic for me and reminds me of the first time I had a Ramos Gin Fizz,” Lambert says. “We use a house made cashew cream and a house made banana syrup with orange juice, aquafaba, and coconut then top it with soda. The texture and flavor make it hard to believe its plant-based. The very challenge of creating cocktails and mocktails with organic and plantbased ingredients has become one of the more exciting parts of the process.” You’ll find the recipe for the Naranja on page 55.

Carcara’s Cathedral Rock

“Pineapple can be dehydrated to use as a garnish and even as a snack. Another thing I am doing is grilling pineapple to make the perfect pairing with some añejo tequilas. Macerated mango also goes very well with mezcals, and currently at Vista Encantada, I use it in small, concentrated reductions to perfume cocktails.” – JESSICA “GIN” MONTSERRAT REYES JIMÉNEZ CASTRO, Vista Encantada Spa Resort & Residences Shelby Mastro’s Al Pastor Martini

Tumeric, lychee syrup, lime, soda); Pink Limeade Cocktail (muddled blackberries and dragonfruit, lime juice, triple sec, tequila), and Pink Cloud Cocktail (tequila, pink dragonfruit powder, beetroot, lime juice, lychee syrup, egg white). For the bar pros at Carcara in the Sheraton Phoenix Downtown — a restaurant that “celebrates local, indigenous and seasonal ingredients through native American and Sonoran-inspired cuisine” — finding new ways that tropical fruits can add flavor and color to hand-crafted cocktails is the goal, according to Director of Restaurants Lenny Skorcz. They’ve achieved that with two popular libations: the signature Devil’s Bridge Cocktail made with pink dragon fruit, rum, stone fruit syrup, pineapple juice, lime, lemon, and orange bitters; and the Cathedral Rock crafted with rum, mezcal, blue curacao, chipotle pineapple syrup, lime, and pineapple. Beverage Manager Kacie Lambert has started turning to melons to update cocktails at Gracias Madre in Newport Beach, California. “We’re infusing [watermelon] into spirits and mixing it into spirit-forward cocktails

at the bar

“Ponche de Guayaba is a good example of how citrus improves the fruity flavor of guava and complements with rum spirit.” –NEFTALI MARTINEZ, The Fruiteria-Botanero

LEARN HOW TO: Create a working wine list How to engage your staff to sell wine The best ways to promote wine

for balance without too much sweetness,” says Lambert, who is also excited about using honeydew in creative ways for new seasonal specials. “I created a monk fruit and honeydew syrup that mixes beautifully with agave spirits,” says Lambert, who plans to incorporate the syrup in margaritas and other cocktails. She says she also was excited about making a plant-based Piña Colada Milk Punch using coconut milk. “Turns out it’s my new favorite,” she says emphatically. “We ran this special at Orange County’s Restaurant Week and it was so loved that I’m excited to add it to the cocktail menu come summer.” Some of today’s most successful mixologists are taking a minimalist approach, sticking with citrus fruit and subtle touches of liqueurs to allow for more spirits-forward cocktails. Neftali Martinez, bartender at Chef Johnny Hernandez’s The Fruteria-Botanero in San Antonio, is one of those professionals. “Ponche de Guayaba is a good

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The FruiteriaBotanero’s Ponche de Guayaba

example of how citrus improves the fruity flavor of guava and complements with rum spirit,” says Martinez of the ponche that features aged rum, orange juice, pineapple juice, guava puree, lime juice and grenadine. San Antonio-based mixologist Jeret Peña, owner of the the city’s Three Star Bar, is considered one of the many mixologists who put San Antonio on the map as a cocktail town. He has a keen palate when it comes to understanding which tropical fruits blend well with different liqueurs. “My new favorite is less of a cocktail and more of a highball. I take a chartreuse’s swizzle and deconstruct it by adding it to a Collins glass with falernum and lime. I mix it quickly and top it with pineapple soda. I particularly enjoy pineapple juice and amaro such as Aperol,” he says.

PAY ATTENTION TO PREP Creative mixology, of course, is about more than picking the fruit used behind the bar; it’s about the techniques that mixologists employ to prepare that fruit for use in cocktails, too. Dehydrating, grilling, macerating, and clarifying are some of today’s trending techniques. “It’s about taking existing fruits like oranges, limes and so on, and then dehydrating them for garnishes,” explains Peña. “I have used dehydrated dragon fruit and starfruit for garnishes, as they look exquisite.” Jessica “Gin” Montserrat Reyes Jiménez Castro, mixologist at Vista

at the bar

We’re infusing [watermelon] into spirits and mixing it into spirit-forward cocktails for balance without too much sweetness ... [and] I created a monk fruit and honeydew syrup that mixes beautifully with agave spirits.” – KACIE LAMBERT, Gracias Madre

Encantada Spa Resort & Residences in Los Cabos, Mexico, likes to surprise customers by altering familiar flavor profiles to take them from sweet to savory. “Pineapple can be dehydrated to use as a garnish and even as a snack,” says Castro. “Another thing I am doing is grilling pineapple to make the perfect pairing with some añejo tequilas. Macerated mango also goes very well with mezcals, and currently at Vista Encantada, I use it in small, concentrated reductions to perfume cocktails.” Mastro is also a master when it comes to dehydrating fruit. Case in point: the dehydrated BBQ pineapple that graces her Al Pastor Martini — a cocktail made with tamarind puree, pineapple juice, lime juice and ghost pepper tequila. Gracias Madre’s Lambert has updated her use of pineapple by clarifying the juice, using coconut milk for the process, to achieve a unique, versatile, plant-based flavor. She uses it in The Piña, a mocktail that also incorporates lemon plus a chili mango tea “that blends wonderfully with pineapple and lemon flavors,” she explains. “The subtle hints of the mango and spice from the tea lend a beautiful texture.” Making cordials is another way to use fruit and be sustainable, too, Lambert adds. “Using every part of the fruit, from their peels to their juice, by making a cordial expands the shelf life of the fruit,” she says. “Any chance to use these fruits to really celebrate the spirits is a great combination.” Los Angeles-based writer Elyse Glickman is the At the Bar columnist for el Restaurante. Turn to page 54 for great tropical fruit cocktail recipes.

el restaurante | APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2022

en el bar

UN GIRO A LOS LOS MIXÓLOGOS UTILIZAN LAS FRUTAS TROPICALES PARA REFRESCAR LOS COCTELES DE VERANO | POR ELYSE GLICKMAN | ¿Qué es lo más básico en unas vacaciones tropicales? Lo más probable es que sus clientes mencionen las olas del mar, las palmeras, la brisa fresca, las terrazas para fiestas y las playas de arena. También muchos dirán que los cocteles hechos con frutas tropicales complementan esa escena soleada. Ya sea para replicar la sensación de unas vacaciones en una isla, o simplemente para añadir más sabor y color detrás de la barra, los mixólogos de los restaurantes mexicanos están explorando nuevas formas de incorporar frutas tropicales en sus menús de coctelería. En el restaurante mexicano Mamacitas en Houston, esa exploración es evidente en la Margarita de Fruta del Dragón, la Margarita de Mango y FreMango-rita de Shelby Mastro

Trópicos sa, la Margarita de Piña de Jalisco, y la Mangocita, una bebida de alto octanaje que eleva la tradicional Margarita de Mango que ofrece la casa con una dosis extra de tequila y un palo de tamarindo bañado en Tajín. “La Mangocita es definitivamente nuestra bebida más popular”, dice el gerente Aureliano Mendoza, quien afirma que la Margarita de Fruta de Dragón también es popular, especialmente durante el verano.

Pink Cloud Cocktail de Shelby Mastro

UN RECORRIDO POR EL MENÚ DE LA COCTELERÍA TROPICAL Algunas de las mismas frutas tropicales utilizadas en las Margaritas de Mamacitas también están presentes en los cocteles que Shelby Mastro ha preparado para varios restaurantes en los que ha trabajado. “Las margaritas se venden solas, pero eso no me impide cambiar el sabor siempre que puedo”, informa Mastro, que ahora está a cargo del bar del Worcester Beer Garden en Worcester (Massachusetts). También es la directora de bebidas y colaboradora de Crafted Pour, una fuente en línea para los entusiastas de la coctelería. En verano, Mastro prefiere el mango, la piña y el maracuyá para “cambiar el sabor”. Su Mango-rita, elaborada con puré de mango, jugo de naranja con mango, mezcla agria y rodajas de jalapeño, y acentuada con trozos de mango picante seco y sal de lava negra, es un ejemplo refrescante y llamativo.

Mastro también es aficionada a utilizar la fruta del dragón, que emplea en su coctel Gold Dragon (tequila ghost pepper, fruta del dragón amarilla triturada, cúrcuma rallada, jarabe de lichi, lima, refresco); Coctel Pink Limeade (puré de moras y fruta del dragón, jugo de lima, triple sec, tequila), y Coctel Pink Cloud (tequila, polvo de fruta del dragón rosa, betabel, jugo de lima, jarabe de lichi, clara de huevo). Para los bartenders profesionales de Carcara en el centro de Sheraton Phoenix, un restaurante que “acoge ingredientes locales, nativos y de temporada mediante una cocina inspirada en los nativos americanos y en Sonora”, el objetivo es encontrar nuevas formas en las que las frutas tropicales puedan añadir sabor y color a los cocteles artesanales, según el APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2022

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en el bar

Haz un coctel sin alcohol Las bebidas de bar sin alcohol están ocupando un lugar más importante que nunca en los menús de todo el país. Kacie Lambert, directora de bebidas de Gracias Madre, en Newport Beach (California), ha creado dos cocteles sin alcohol únicos para aprovechar esta tendencia. Además de The Piña elaborada con té de mango con chile (descrita en la historia del coctel), Lambert elaboró The Naranja para el menú de “Enero Seco” del restaurante. Se vendió tan bien que ahora es una bebida permanente en el menú. “Este coctel me resulta nostálgico y me recuerda la primera vez que tomé un Ramos Gin Fizz”, comenta Lambert. “Empleamos una crema casera de nuez de la India y un jarabe casero de plátano con jugo de naranja, aquafaba y coco, y luego lo completamos con refresco. La textura y el sabor hacen que sea difícil de creer que sea de origen vegetal. El propio reto de crear cocteles y cocteles sin alcohol con ingredientes orgánicos y de origen vegetal se ha convertido en una de las partes más emocionantes del proceso.” Encontrará la receta de The Naranja en la página 54.

Director de Restaurantes Lenny Skorcz. Lo han conseguido con dos bebidas populares: el emblemático coctel Devil’s Bridge, elaborado con fruta de dragón rosa, ron, jarabe de fruta con hueso, jugo de piña, lima, limón y amargo de naranja, y el Cathedral Rock, elaborado con ron, mezcal, curazao azul, jarabe de piña con chipotle, lima y piña. La directora de bebidas, Kacie Lambert, ha empezado a emplear melones para actualizar los cocteles en Gracias Madre, en Newport Beach (California). “Estamos haciendo una infusión [de sandía] en los licores y la mezclamos en cocteles con licor para lograr un equilibrio sin demasiado dulzor”, afirma Lambert, que también está emocionada por utilizar el melón verde de forma creativa para las nuevas especialidades de temporada. “He creado un jarabe de fruta del monje y melón verde que se mezcla maravillosamente con los licores de agave”, comenta Lambert, que planea incorporar el jarabe en margaritas y otros cocteles. Dice que también le emociona hacer un ponche de piña colada de origen vegetal y con leche de coco. “Resulta que es mi

el restaurante | APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2022

nuevo favorito”, afirma con energía. “Hicimos este especial en la Semana de los Restaurantes en el Condado de Orange y gustó tanto que estoy emocionada de añadirlo al menú de coctelería en el verano”. Algunos de los mixólogos más exitosos de la actualidad apuestan por los cítricos y los toques sutiles de licores para lograr unos cocteles más espirituosos. Neftalí Martínez, bartender de The Fruteria-Botanero del chef Johnny Hernández en San Antonio, es uno de ellos. “El Ponche de Guayaba es un buen Cathedral Cocktail de Carcara

ejemplo de cómo los cítricos mejoran el sabor frutal de la guayaba y complementan el ron”, explica Martínez sobre el ponche que lleva ron añejo, jugo de naranja, jugo de piña, puré de guayaba, jugo de lima y granadina. El mixólogo de San Antonio Jeret Peña, propietario del Three Star Bar de la ciudad, tiene un buen paladar cuando se trata de entender qué frutas tropicales combinan bien con diferentes licores. “Mi nueva bebida favorita es menos un cóctel y más un highball. Tomo un swizzle de chartreuse y lo deconstruyo añadiéndolo a un vaso Collins con falernum y lima. Lo mezclo rápidamente y lo lleno de refresco de piña. Me gusta especialmente el jugo de piña y un amaro como Aperol”, comenta.

PRESTE ATENCIÓN A LA PREPARACIÓN La mixología creativa, por supuesto, va más allá de elegir la fruta que se utiliza tras la barra, se trata también de las técnicas que emplean los mixólogos para preparar esa fruta para usarla en los cocteles. La deshidratación, el asado, la maceración y la clarificación son algunas de las técnicas de moda en la actualidad. “La idea es tomar las frutas existentes, como las naranjas, las limas, etc., y deshidratarlas para que sirvan de garnituras”, explica Peña. “He utilizado la fruta del dragón deshidratada y la carambola como garnituras, ya que tienen un aspecto exquisito”. A Jessica “Gin” Montserrat Reyes Jiménez Castro, mixóloga del Vista Encantada Spa Resort & Residences en Los Cabos, México, le gusta sorprender a los clientes alterando los perfiles de sabor conocidos para llevarlos de lo dulce a lo salado. “La piña se puede deshidratar y utilizarla como garnitura e incluso como bocadillo”, afirma Castro. “Otra cosa que hago es asar piña para hacer la com-

“La piña se puede deshidratar y utilizarla como garnitura e incluso como bocadillo. Otra cosa que hago es asar piña para hacer la combinación perfecta con algunos tequilas añejos. El mango macerado también va muy bien con los mezcales, y actualmente en Vista Encantada, lo utilizo en pequeñas raciones concentradas para perfumar cócteles.” – JESSICA “GIN” MONTSERRAT REYES JIMÉNEZ CASTRO, Vista Encantada Spa Resort & Residences

Al Pastor Martini de Shelby Mastro

binación perfecta con algunos tequilas añejos. El mango macerado también va muy bien con los mezcales, y actualmente en Vista Encantada, lo utilizo en pequeñas raciones concentradas para perfumar cócteles.” Mastro también es una maestra a la hora de deshidratar la fruta. Un ejemplo: la piña deshidratada asada que acentúa su Martini Al Pastor, hecho con jugo de piña, puré de tamarindo, jugo de lima, tequila ghost pepper, salsa BBQ Ghost Guava y amargos de chile ahumado. Lambert, de Gracias Madre, ha actualizado la utilización de la piña clarificando el jugo, empleando leche de coco para el proceso, a fin de lograr un sabor único, versátil y de origen vegetal. Lo utiliza en The Piña, un cóctel sin alcohol que también tiene limón y un té de mango con chile “que combina maravillosamente con los sabores de la piña y el limón”, explica. “Los sutiles toques del mango y las especias del té aportan una hermosa textura”. Hacer cordiales es otra forma de utilizar la fruta y ser sustentable, señala Lambert. “El uso de todas las partes de la fruta, desde sus cáscaras hasta su jugo, en la preparación de un cordial amplía la vida útil de la fruta”, asegura. “Cualquier oportunidad de utilizar estas frutas para exaltar las bebidas espirituosas es una buena combinación”. La escritora asentada en Los Ángeles Elyse Glickman es la columnista de At the Bar para el Restaurante. En la página 54 encontrará estupendas recetas de cocteles de frutas tropicales. APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2022

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Natural Fruit Drinks. We pick the best fruits, enhance the flavor with pure cane sugar, blend with pristine water, then immediately freeze in the flavor so you can deliver only the besttasting drinks to your customers. Our natural fruit drink mixes come in flavors ideal for Mexican and Latin restaurants: Banana, Caribbean, Margarita, Ice Cream, Mango, Passion Fruit, Peach, Piña Colada, Raspberry, Strawberry and Wildberry. 954-306-8262; naturalfruitdrinks.com

Bebidas de frutas naturales. Seleccionamos las mejores frutas, realzamos el sabor con azúcar de caña pura, combinamos con agua prístina, y luego congelamos el sabor de inmediato para que usted pueda ofrecer a sus clientes solo las bebidas de mejor sabor. Nuestras combinaciones de bebidas de frutas naturales están disponibles en sabores ideales para los restaurantes mexicanos y latinos: plátano, caribe, margarita, helado, mango, maracuyá, melocotón, piña colada, frambuesa, fresa y mora silvestre. 954-306-8262; naturalfruitdrinks.com

Demonio de los Andes Acholado Pisco. This pisco is a blend of the finest grapes of Albilla, Italia, Mosatel, Quebranta and Torontel. Clementine, apricots and delicate floral notes make this Pisco a delightful and versatile spirit to use to make cocktails. Imported by Ebros Imports Corp. Produced and bottled in Vina Tacama’s winery of Ica Valley, Peru, the oldest winery in Peru and South America. doenzhumir.com

Pisco Demonio de los Andes Acholado. Se trata de una mezcla de las mejores uvas de Albilla, Italia, Mosatel, Quebranta y Torontel. La clementina, los albaricoques y las delicadas notas florales hacen que este pisco sea un licor delicioso y versátil para preparar cócteles. Importado por Ebros Imports Corp. Producido y embotellado en las bodegas de Viña Tacama del Valle de Ica, Perú, la bodega más antigua de Perú y de Sudamérica. doenzhumir.com

FWE Food Warming Equipment. Hire the perfect companion for your kitchen. The HLC-8 Undercounter Insulated Mobile Heated Cabinet will stay by your side and hold vegetables for fajitas, sides of beans, melted queso, or any number of sides, keeping them hot, fresh, and ready to serve at a moment’s notice. 800-222-4393; fwe.com Equipo de calentamiento de alimentos FWE. Contrate al compañero perfecto para su cocina. El gabinete calefactor móvil aislado HLC8 permanecerá a su lado y guardará las verduras para las fajitas, las guarniciones de frijoles, el queso derretido, o cualquier número de acompañamientos. Los mantiene calientes, frescos y listos para servir en cualquier momento. 800-222-4393; fwe.com

BE&SCO Electric Tortilla Machine. Low cost is the benefit! The Beta 900 Electric Tortilla Machine can transform your restaurant into a reliable profit center. With a footprint requirement of only 12 sq. ft., the Beta 900 expertly combines consistency and high production with low operating costs. Request a quote: 210-734-5124; sales@bescomfg.com; bescomfg.com

Tortilladora eléctrica de BE&SCO. ¡La ventaja que tiene es su bajo costo! La tortilladora Eléctrica Beta 900 puede convertir su restaurante en un centro de ganancias confiable. Con un requerimiento que ocupa solamente 12 pies cuadrados, la Beta 900 expertamente combina la consistencia y la alta producción con los bajos costos de operación. Solicite una cotización: 210-7345124; sales@bescomfg. com; bescomfg.com APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2022

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marketplace/el mercado

Mini Taco Shells and Displays. These custom-made mini tacos are made of the finest masa, then fried to crispy perfection, by hand, for each order. Choose a color, pick a quantity, and we’ll make and ship your tacos fresh on the next production day. A variety of taco display trays and racks also available. 908-829-5118; minitacoshells.com

Mini Taco Shells and Displays. Estos mini tacos hechos a medida se elaboran con la mejor masa y se fríen a mano hasta conseguir una crujiente perfección en cada pedido. Escoja un color, seleccione una cantidad, y nosotros prepararemos y enviaremos sus tacos frescos en el siguiente día de producción. También disponemos de una variedad de bandejas y estantes para tacos. 908-829-5118; minitacoshells.com

Xoloitzcuintle Tequila. Launched in September 2021, this is a micro distilled, small batch tequila from the highlands of Jalisco, Mexico. Made from 100% Blue Agave, 46% ABV. 909-215-2620; drinkxolo.com

Tequila Xoloitzcuintle. Este tequila, lanzado en septiembre de 2021, es un tequila microdestilado y de pequeño lote procedente de los Altos de Jalisco (México). Elaborado con 100 % de Agave Azul, 46 % ABV. 909-215-2620; drinkxolo.com

Sevillo Fine Foods Chimichurri. Our 2022 FABI AwardWinning Chimichurri is a culinary specialty of Argentina and Uruguay that’s typically served with grilled meats, roasted beef and pork sausages. It’s also a delicious accompaniment to fish, flatbreads, wraps and grain or veggie bowls. (801) 487-6556; sevillofinefoods.com Sevillo Fine Foods Chimichurri. Nuestro Chimichurri, galardonado con el premio FABI 2022, constituye una especialidad culinaria de Argentina y Uruguay y se sirve normalmente con carnes a la parrilla, carne asada y embutidos de cerdo. Además, es un delicioso acompañamiento para el pescado, los panes planos, los wraps y los bowls de cereales o verduras. (801) 487-6556; sevillofinefoods.com

Tortilla Masters Corn Tortilla Machine. Creating perfect, ready-to-cook corn tortillas has never been easier thanks to the Ventura Flex Corn Tortilla Machine — the first tabletop restaurant-style corn tortilla machine to meet UL and NSF standards. It is convenient, small, and has big production capabilities — makes up to 840 tortillas per hour. This machine can be placed on a table, occupying a small 2 x 2 feet of space. 281-994-7010; tortillmachine.com

Tortilladora de Maiz Tortilla Masters. Nunca ha sido tan fácil crear tortillas de maíz perfectas y listas para cocinar gracias a la máquina de tortillas de maíz Ventura Flex, primera tortilladora de maíz para restaurantes que cumple con las normas UL y NSF. Es cómoda, pequeña y tiene una gran capacidad de producción: hace hasta 840 tortillas por hora. Esta máquina se puede colocar sobre una mesa, ocupando un pequeño espacio de 2 x 2 pies. 281-994-7010; tortillmachine.com Pochteca Tamarind Liqueur. This all-natural, artisanal tamarind liqueur is made in Tequila, Jalisco, with 100% Agave Tequila. Almond, Blackberry, Chocolate, Coffee, Mango, Coconut, Lime, Hibiscus and Pomegranate flavors also available. pochtecaspirits.com

Licor de tamarindo Pochteca. El licor de tamarindo, totalmente natural y artesanal, se fabrica en Tequila, Jalisco, con tequila 100 % de agave. También está disponible en sabores de almendra, mora, chocolate, café, mango, coco, lima, hibisco y granada. pochtecaspirits.com

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resource guide

el restaurante | APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2022

recipes

Ceviche Corvina

For the ceviche

ceviche with the juice, then surround with 6 to 8 slices of starfruit and 6 ruby red grapefruit segments. Add 4 to 6 dots of avocado sauce, garnish with cilantro leaves and crumbled chicharron, and serve with some fried corn chips on the side.

1 lb. fresh Corvina, clean diced, about ¼ inch pieces (substitute Grouper or American Red Snapper) ¼ c. fresh lime juice

Passion Fruit and Habanero Chile Butter Sauce

Recipe and photo courtesy of Chef Chris Fernandez, Red Mesa Cantina Makes 4 servings

Sign up for el Restaurante’s Recipe of the weekemail! EMAIL Kathy Furore, kfurore@restmex.com, with ‘Recipe’ In the subject line

¼ c. fresh orange juice ¼ c. fresh mango juice 1½ T. kosher salt Place diced Corvina in a glass bowl and mix with citrus and kosher salt. Refrigerate for at least 3 hrs. For the pickled shallots: ¼ lb. sliced thin shallots 1 habanero chili split in half ½ c. white vinegar ¼ c. water 1 bay leaf 3 peppercorns 3 whole cloves 2 T. granulated sugar 1 T. kosher salt 1 garlic clove smashed Place shallots in an 8 oz container. In a sauce pan place garlic, spices, vinegar and water and heat just to the point of boiling, then add to shallots and let cool down at room temperature (this can be done a couple of days in advance). For the avocado sauce: 1 large California avocado cut in half — remove the pit The juice of 2 limes 1 serrano chili chopped ¼ c. chopped cilantro 1 t. salt ¼ t. cumin powder Put all ingredients in a blender and puree well. Transfer to a squeeze bottle and refrigerate until use. For the chicharron: Go to your preferred butcher shop and get some pork cracklings (crumble in small pieces) For the fruit: 1 large ruby red grapefruit cut into supreme (segments) 1 starfruit sliced very thin To plate the dish: Using a 10-inch plate, place the Corvina

Recipe courtesy of Chef Chris Fernandez, Red Mesa Cantina Makes 1 quart

2 c. puree passion fruit puree 1 c. fresh mango juice 1 c. white wine (sauvignon blanc) ¼ c. agave honey Juice of 3 limes 1 t. kosher salt 1 t. cumin 2 habanero chiles split in half 1 lb. soft unsalted butter In a saucepan combine passion fruit puree, mango juice, wine, salt, cumin and honey. Bring to boil and reduce by half. Remove from the heat, and incorporate the butter little by little, whisking constantly until a smooth butter sauce is formed. Keep at room temperature for serving. Chef’s Note: We use this sauce over grilled salmon and grilled pork. It also complements chicken wings very well.

Secret of the Tropics Cocktail with Fresh Mango Seed-Infused Vodka Recipe by Tony Pereyra, Bar & Beverage Solutions, The Spirits in Motion; courtesy of National Mango Board

The Fresh Mango Seed Infused Vodka: 4 to 5 fresh mango seeds, mango flesh still attached 1 liter Tito’s Vodka or your preferred vodka Combine mango seeds and vodka. Leave at room temperature for about 24 hours, or sous vide for 1.5 hours and let cool. The Cocktail: 1 shot mango seed-infused vodka .75 oz. Aperol 1 oz. lime juice 2 dashes orange bitters ½ oz. pineapple juice For garnish: fresh mango slice, 2 fresh thyme sprigs, amaranth leaf Combine all ingredients in mixing glass, shake well. Strain over fresh ice. Garnish.

APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2022

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recipes

Piloncillo Pecan Pie

Mango-rita

Recipe courtesy of Executive Chef Jan Mendelson, La Puerta Azul

Recipe and photo courtesy of Shelby Mastro, Worcester Beer Garden and Crafted Pour Makes 1 cocktail

The Filling: 2 c. pecans 2 T. butter 1 lb. piloncillo 4 eggs 1 c. melted unsalted butter 2 T. ancho chile powder 2 T. cornstarch 4 T. heavy cream 4 t. vanilla extract Grate piloncillo on a coarse box grater. Combine piloncillo, eggs, butter, ancho chile, cornstarch, cream and vanilla in blender and puree until smooth. Preheat oven to 325°F. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a small oven-proof pan, add pecans, and bake for 15 to 20 minutes until fragrant and lightly toasted. Reserve. The Crust: ¾ c. flour ½ t. kosher salt 1 T. sugar 10 T. cold butter diced ½ c. flour 3 T. very cold water + 1 T. white vinegar Combine ¾ cup flour, salt, sugar, and butter in processor until the texture of coarse cornmeal. Sprinkle with remaining flour and pulse briefly to combine. Sprinkle with cold water/vinegar mixture and pulse to combine. Do not over process. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least ½ hour. Roll out crust (using a little extra flour as needed to prevent sticking) to about a 13-inch circle approximately 1⁄8-inch thick. Line a 9-inch-deep tart or pie pan with the crust. Assembly: Increase oven temperature to 350°F. Place pecans in the pie shell. Pour piloncillo custard into shell over nuts. Bake approximately 40 to 45 minutes at 350°F. Custard should be just set in the middle; if not, continue baking, in approximately 5-minute increments, until set. Let cool completely before cutting. Cut into 8 wedges and serve lightly warmed and topped with vanilla ice cream.

el restaurante | APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2022

1½ oz. tequila 1 oz. The Perfect Purée Mango Puree, thawed 1 oz. Natalie’s Orange Mango Juice ¾ oz. sour mix (lemon, lime, agave) 3 slices jalapeño Add all ingredients with ice into shaker. Shake and strain into glass with fresh ice. Garnish with dried spicy mangoes and black lava salt (in a fire shape) along bottom of glass.

Piña Colada Milk Punch Makes 10 - 12 cocktails Recipe courtesy of Kacie Lambert, Gracias Madre

Reusable 3-layered cheesecloth Large fine strainer 2 large containers that will each fit all ingredients Small saucepan 1½ c. reposado tequila of choice ½ c. silver or white rum ½ c. grenadine ¼ c. agave 1 c. pineapple juice ½ c. lemon juice 1 c. full fat coconut milk Combine all ingredients except coconut milk and chill. In a saucepan, heat coconut milk to just before boiling. While waiting, place three layers of your reusable cheesecloth into your fine strainer, making sure that all areas of the strainer are covered, and place over large container. Combine the coconut milk with the batched cocktail and pour over the cheesecloth. Once the liquid runs clear, move the strainer and cheesecloth over your second container. Pour the liquid from the first container over the cheese cloth once again. Pro tip: You need the layers of cheesecloth combined with the coconut milk to achieve the clarification process, so do not clean or change your cheesecloth during this process. Most important, have patience. The process can be long but totally worth it!

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Ponche de Guayaba Recipe and photo courtesy of Neftali Martinez, The Fruteria-Botanero Makes 1 cocktail

1½ oz. aged rum 1 oz. orange juice 1 oz. pineapple juice 1 oz. guava puree ½ oz. lime juice ½ oz. grenadine Measure all ingredients in a shaker. Add ice and shake well. Pour into a tall rocks glass. Garnish with a quarter of an orange slice.

The Naranja Mocktail

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Recipe courtesy of Kacie Lambert, Gracias Madre Makes 10 - 12 cocktails

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Blender or Vitamix Soaking container Cashew Coconut Cream (recipe below) Banana Syrup (recipe below)

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The Cashew Coconut Cream: 1 c. cashews 2 c. coconut milk 1 t. vanilla extract

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Soak cashews in water for at least 2 hours. After cashews are done soaking, blend them together with the coconut milk and vanilla extract.

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The Banana Syrup:

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1 c. sugar 1 c. water

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1 banana Place sugar and water into a blender with the banana. Blend on high for 5 minutes. To Build One Cocktail: 1 oz. cashew coconut cream ½ oz. banana syrup 1 oz. orange juice ½ oz. lemon juice 1 oz. aquafaba (juice from garbanzo beans) Topo Chico mineral water Shake and pour over ice in a Collins glass. Top with Topo Chico and an orange twist.

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my favorite recipe

CHEF YANI SANCHEZ

Takito Street “Sobre Nosotros” With that introduction on its website, Takito Street describes the concept behind the restaurant that owner Mario Ponce brought to Chicago’s Lincoln Park neighborhood in January 2020: “a playful Mexican Street food joint with a playful, contemporary vibe.” Ponce is no stranger to operating a busy restaurant in a trendy Chicago neighborhood: He also owns Bar Takito, an 8-year-old establishment featuring Nuevo Latino American cuisine in a contemporary urban environment in the West Loop, and Takito Kitchen, a 7-yearold, award-winning modern taqueria in Wicker Park. The dishes that bring in everyone from students at DePaul University right across the street to neighborhood families are Takito Street’s made-to-order, artisanal street tacos served in handmade tortillas. Regular menu items include chicken tinga, crispy fish, skirt steak and al pastor tacos. But it’s specials like the Cauliflower Steak with Pistachio Crust, Greek Yogurt Sauce and Pistachio Mole, garnished with microgreens, that add excitement to Takito Street’s ever-evolving menu. It’s an offering that the Instagram post announcing it calls, “A vegetarian dish so delish that even the biggest carnivores love it!” This recipe, created by Chef Yani Sanchez (who represents all three restaurants), is a favorite for several reasons, Ponce reports. “This satisfies the demand for vegetarian dishes, and we find cauliflower durable and delicious year-round,” he says.

el restaurante | APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2022

Cauliflower Steak with Pistachio Crust, Greek Yogurt Sauce and Pistachio Mole Makes 12 servings

3 heads cauliflower Mole Verde (recipe at right) Cauliflower Marinade (recipe at right) Slice each cauliflower head into four thick “steaks,” so you have 12 steaks total. Pour the Cauliflower Marinade over them and marinate them for 15 to 20 minutes in the refrigerator. Remove them from the marinade and roast in the oven for about 20 minutes.

To plate: Spread about ¼ cup of the Mole Verde on the plate, then top with one cauliflower steak. The Mole Verde: 1 c. pepitas 1 c. pistachios ½ c. white sesame seeds 6 each whole black peppercorns 3 each whole cloves 3 cinnamon sticks 1 c. tortilla chips 1 T. olive oil 3 c. tomatillo sauce (canned is fine) 1 T. salt Roast the spices (first six ingredients) in a saucepan until they release their aroma. Put the roasted spices into a blender with the tortilla chips

Chef Yani Sanchez

and blend, adding enough water to create a paste. In another saucepan, heat the olive oil. Once hot, add the spice mix and cook for 15 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the tomatillo sauce and cook for another 10 minutes. Add the salt and set aside. The Cauliflower Marinade: 3 c. Greek yogurt 3 T. garlic mojo (canned is fine) 3 bunches thyme, very finely chopped 1 T. chile flakes ½ c. roasted pistachios ½ c. olive oil 1 T. salt 4 T. piloncillo syrup Mix all ingredients in a bowl.

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