el Restaurante MarApr 2024 Edition

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As anyone who owns or manages a restaurant knows, trying to run a business and your life simultaneously can be a bit tricky at times — especially when big deadlines and big family events share a week on the calendar.

That’s just the situation Publisher Ed Avis and I found ourselves in as we were putting this issue of el Restaurante to bed: Files had to be uploaded to meet our publishing deadline and we had to load up our suitcases and hit the road for a trip to our niece’s event-filled wedding week in Palm Springs.

Obviously, as I sit here writing this, neither of those things has happened. But I’m going to go out on a proverbial limb and say that they will have by the time you read this issue — and that by the end of the week, we’ll have forgotten all about deadlines as we celebrate the new Mr. & Mrs. Parker Crockett.

Thanks to sources who so promptly responded to our lastminute requests, advertisers who got ads in on time, and Art Director Ala Ennes who worked her design magic through the weekend, we think this issue is something you can celebrate, too.

Need ideas for creative cocktails that make your bar menu stand apart from your competitors? Check. Want to learn how you can offer tlayudas that go beyond the basics? Check. Interested in adding family-style dining but not sure how to make it work? Check again.

And that’s just a sample of what you’ll find as you flip through the pages of our March/April issue.

Happy reading…and let us know what you think so we can make our May/June issue even better.

Kathleen Furore, editor

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WHOLLY ® AVOCADO AND WHOLE FRUIT?

Our avocado is just like the fruit you cut, pit and scoop minus all the cutting, pitting and scooping. And that translates to some serious time and labor savings. If you want the best part of the avocado without any of the work, give WHOLLY® AVOCADO a try. It’s 100% Hass Avocado and always ready to go.

TRY IT YOURSELF.

A SAMPLE.

Marking a Milestone:

LOS ARROYOS MEXICAN RESTAU RANT CELEBRATES 25

TH BIRTHDAY

On March 4, Los Arroyos Mexican Restaurant and Take Out celebrated the day that 25 years ago Jose Antonio “Tony” Arroyo opened his first restaurant in downtown Santa Barbara, California. Since that 1999 debut in a 600-squarefoot space, the company has grown substantially, adding California locations in Montecito and Goleta, and in Carmel and Indianapolis, Indiana.

On Instagram and Facebook (posts excerpted here), the restaurant extended thanks to long-time employees who have contributed so much to Los Arroyos’ success.

Tony Arroyo. About 40 years ago Tony arrived in Santa Barbara with no money, no English, but a dream and a goal… to open a restaurant! He had a large family in Mexico to support and nothing was going to stop him. His passion and love for restaurant business and Santa Barbara is strong and always will be. Thank you, Tony, for having a heart of gold and your leadership all these years!

Irma Damazo. Los Arroyos’ very first employee! Irma was young, with very little experience — but immediately she showed commitment to our business and family. Ever since, she has given us her best every day she steps into the kitchen. She still runs the kitchen in Goleta. Irma, you are a blessing to us. Thank you for being a huge part of our family (not just our business). This day is as much yours as it is ours!

Areli Miguel. Areli started with us 24½ years ago when she was just barely 17 years old. Areli has helped Los Arroyos open six restaurants (two now closed) and now manages our catering services. Areli has been with us through it all, and she has postponed too many personal goals for the sake of Los Arroyos and her family. It has been a joy to watch her grow up and become an amazing momma of three beautiful little girls while working and caring for her extended family. Areli, we are so proud of you and grateful for your love and commitment to the Los Arroyos and Arroyo familia. Luisa Perez. Have you ever had the good fortune to have an employee that would work 24 hours a day, seven days a week for you, no matter what the job was? Well, we are blessed to say we do! Los Arroyos is proud and grateful for this amazing woman! Luisa, lead cook, has worked for us for over 24 years. You may have seen “Luisa’s Pozole” on the menu. She is an amazing cook and so valuable to the Arroyo family.

Orbelin Muñez (left) and Jorge Nava (below). We owe so much of our success to our Management Team…let’s start with Orbelin and Jorge at our Goleta location! Orbelin, for example, has worked for us for nine years and his smile and warmth he brings to work every day is extremely admired.

Lesli Borrayo. This woman is not only beautiful, but she also is the strongest, most loving manager, mother of five kids/adults, wife, and comadre! If you visit Los Arroyos Downtown, then you know our Lesli! Lesli is family — in fact she should add Arroyo to her last name. She has worked for us for 20 years and we couldn’t imagine life without her.

Marciano (“Marci”) Cervantes. A huge shout out to our Marciano, our strong, sweet (yes he can be) manager of Los Arroyos Montecito! When we get him to smile, it’s the best! Thank you, Marciano, for caring so much about our team and the Montecito community! Marciano has worked for us for 15 years and we are so proud and grateful to call him #Familia!

QUALITY YOU CAN TRUST

Boosting revenue on Cinco de Mayo is influenced by its popularity as a key social occasion, where adult beverages will be abundant. Contigo® offers five essential and vivid margarita flavors for your guests to enjoy repeatedly. Follow the easy-labeled proportions, mix by hand, or enhance with syrups, spirits, or puréed fruit for signature cocktails. Easy to use, store, and blend.

TRAVEL TO MEXICO ON A CULINARY ADVENTURE WITH Chef Iliana de la Vega

JAMES BEARD AWARD WINNING CHEF ILIANA de la Vega of El Naranjo in Austin, and her daughter Isabel Torrealba, a Mexican cultural anthropologist, recently announced the schedule for six culinary trips to Mexico they’ve planned through their tour company Mexican Culinary Traditions. Spaces are still open on the following adventures, during which participants will explore the local cuisine and culture of each location, learn about using traditional ingredients during a cooking class with the chef, and stay in boutique hotels in each city.

Oaxaca City: Ancient traditions alive

SEPTEMBER 20 26, 2024 (2 spaces open)

DECEMBER 10 16, 2024

Mexico City: Where worlds collide

OCTOBER 15 21, 2024 (a few spaces open)

Mérida, Yucatán: Mayan traces

DECEMBER 2 8, 2024

Morelia, Michoacán: Indigenous flavors 2025 DATES COMING SOON

Special Event Trips: Oaxaca

Unique, one-time event journeys carefully crafted and curated with specific themes in partnership with expert guests.

Mole, Maiz, Mezcal

SEPTEMBER 13 19, 2024

In partnership with Andrea Hagan from rural tourism company Mezcouting

Watercolor & The Oaxacan Table

With artist Jan Heaton

NOVEMBER 8 14, 2024

Private trips also available. For more information visit www.mexicanculinarytraditions.com.

Trade Show Calendar Fi ing Up for Spring and Summ

Mark your calendars for these shows, and visit el Restaurante in Booth #5306 at the National Restaurant Show in Chicago in May.

Tortilla Industry Association Annual Convention 2024 and Trade Show

MAY 9 10, 2024

Horseshoe Casino Resort, Las Vegas NV tortilla-info.com

National Restaurant Show

MAY 18 21

McCormick Place, Chicago nationalrestaurantshow.com

Texas Restaurant Show

JULY 13 15, 2024

Henry B. Gonzalez Convention Center, San Antonio, TX

txrestaurantshow.com

Western Foodservice & Hospitality Expo

AUGUST 25 27

Los Angeles Convention Center

Los Angeles, CA

westernfoodexpo.com

Oaxaca

Merida

Mole, Maiz, Mezcal

Mexico City

Watercolor & The Oaxacan Table Morelia, Michoacán

ANTOJO INDUSTRY EXPO: FORECAST BRIGHT FOR A STRONG SEPTEMBER SHOW

This year, el Restaurante is proud to partner with Antojo Industry Expo, the premier and only Latin-owned trade event for the Latin foodservice, retail and street vendor industries. Now in its second year, the show is scheduled for October 13-14 at the Long Beach Convention Center in Long Beach, California — and booth sales are going strong, according to event organizer Eric Jurado.

“I’m thrilled about the energy building around the Antojo Industry Expo. Its location is a goldmine for exhibitors and attendees seeking new business opportunities,” Jurado says. “From discovering innovative products to forging strategic partnerships, the Antojo offers everything you need to propel your foodservice or grocery retail venture forward.”

Recent additions to the exhibitor list include Badia Spices, and Nongshim USA, an importer and distributor of Korean favorites like Shin Ramyun, Shin Cup Noodle, and Doenjang Guk who wants to promote the trend of Latin-spiced instant noodles.

This is the list of exhibiting brands as el Restaurante went to press:

Megamex

Herdez

Wholly Guacamole

Embasa

Dona Maria

La Victoria

CMC Sales & Marketing

El Yucateco Habanero

Don Victor Honey

La Sirena Sardines

Super Lucky Jasmine

Rice

Mega Chamoy

La Botanera Salsa

Val Vita Tomato Sauce

Pagasa Pasta and Cookies

Old Hacienda

El Rosal Flour

Pan Harina Arepas

805 Cerveza

Cremimex

Cal State Foods

Latino Restaurant Association

Senic International

Tequila Papacito

Tequila 916

Beanhut

Nelia’s La Birria

V&V Supremo

Urban Farmhouse

Tortilla Masters

Toro Tents

Same For Your Corp.

Sauco Salsas

Dirty Cat Mix

Lunchitas

Cool-A-Zone

Fiesta Mexicana

iBolt Mount

Gaya Imports

Kijun, Inc.

La Purepecha

Manufacturas Lenin

IQ Risk

Bback 4 More

Kuko’s Adob

Marinade

Munch Citi

ODS Link

Premier Labeling

Ya Oaxaca

Tagrisk Insurance

Vibras Foods

Latino Food Industry Association

TUYYO Foods

Lolita’s Guiltless Margaritas

AltImpact Coffee

Badia Spices

Pepe’s Foods

Styles by Jean el Restaurante Magazine

Gonzalez Merchandise Import & Export New Economics for Women

Nongshim USA

VNVN System

1515 Design

Doregrill USA

Cordialsa USA

Mexico Lindo

Zuko

Restaurant Groups Expanding Concepts

Tortazo, the fast-casual concept Chef Rick Bayless launched in 2020, is coming to Harrah’s Joliet and Caesars Palace Las Vegas. Bayless, best known for Chicago’s Frontera Grill and Topolabampo, partnered with Caesars Entertainment to add the Illinois and Nevada locations of Tortazo, which currently has two locations in New York and one in Chicago’s Willis Tower (the former Sears Tower).

“We’re so pleased to partner with Chef Rick to bring Tortazo to Joliet and Las Vegas,” said Anthony Carano, president and COO of Caesars Entertainment. “Chef Rick is a powerhouse — bringing a new, eclectic offering to our brand — and is the

perfect addition to our roster of culinary superstars that our guests can experience and enjoy across the Empire.”

“I’m thrilled to partner with Caesars to open Tortazo at two of their incredible destinations, and I’m especially excited to open another so close to home,” Bayless said in the release. “The Caesars brand is synonymous with great hospitality, something that inspired the creation of Tortazo, so it feels like the perfect fit.”

The Harrah’s Joliet location is set to open this spring and the Las Vegas location will follow in late summer.

The Rubio’s Coastal Grill location in Oceanside, California, has literally risen from the ashes three years after a fire destroyed the restaurant in 2021. When the building was torn down, Rubio’s turned misfortune into opportunity and built a new flagship restaurant from the ground up on the site. The restaurant will celebrate a grand

opening of the new space on March 28. Rubio’s is donating 50 percent of all proceeds during its grand opening party to the Boys & Girls Club of Oceanside.

The design, which will serve as a prototype for future updates of other Rubio’s locations, was inspired by “the Baja taco stands where Rubio’s Co-Founder Ralph Rubio first experienced fish tacos during spring break as a college student 41 years ago,” according to a press release.

The graphic wall décor was created by Flint Finlinson from branding agency Propaganda and the interior design came from Melissa Young of MyStudio ID.

“Our goal in creating a flagship Rubio’s in Oceanside was to connect our signature Baja-inspired food, centered around our best-selling Original Fish Taco, with laid-back, beach vibes reflective of the Baja lifestyle,” said Rubio in the release. “We wanted to create a warm, distinctively Rubio’s dining experience for the supportive Oceanside community to come back, relax and enjoy. We can’t wait to welcome everyone.”

Rubio’s has locations across California, Arizona and Nevada.

Villa One Tequila Gardens recently announced plans to open a 12,000+square-foot rooftop bar and restaurant to Worldcenter mixed-use development currently under construction in the city’s Park West neighborhood. Created in partnership with musician Nick Jonas and menswear designer John Varvatos, founders of Villa One tequila, the new spot will feature “over-the-top and tableside cocktails” and Margaritas, a raw bar, more than 150 tequilas and

mezcals, a tequila tasting room with a tequila sommelier, an intimate speakeasy, and a menu of fresh Mexican cuisine.

“Fusing Mexican-inspired cocktails and cuisine with modern Miami sophistication, guests will be transported to an exotic destination within Downtown’s dynamic urban core,” said Nitin Motwani, managing partner of Miami Worldcenter Associates.

The first location of Villa One Tequila Gardens opened in San Diego in 2022; a pop-up in Las Vegas followed, and future locations are planned for Los Angeles, Denver and Miami.

TEMOC MORFIN Cilantro Taco Gri

EDITOR’S NOTE : In 2013, Temoc Morfin opened the first Cilantro Taco Gri in suburban Chicago. Today, there are 15 locations with franchised concepts starting to open nationwide. Here, Morfin — the company’s founder and CEO — shares the story behind his success with el Restaurante.

1You launched your brand in 2013 in one of the most competitive restaurant markets in the country. Where was your first location in the Chicago area?

Everybody asks me that! It is a challenging ground for Mexican restaurants — but I have lived in Chicago all my life and had always dreamt of opening a taqueria that served authentic tacos from Jalisco.

Stone Park was our first location — the opportunity to open there knocked on my door. It is a predominantly Mexican community, but we wanted to target everybody. We came up with a catchy name and a nice logo with nice colors…but it was challenging at first. Mexican people didn’t want it — they were skeptical and wondered, ‘Is this really authentic?’ But once they tried it they knew it was. For example, we have a very traditional taco made with just steak, onions and cilantro; others are more Americanized with cheese, lettuce, tomato and avocado.

2 So, what happened once you realized the concept was working in Stone Park?

Thankfully, things took off running and we opened our second location in Rosemont less than 6 months later. I was trying to get a deal there. I had an appointment with the mayor and asked him to give me a chance to go into a major new outlet mall that was about to open. He said, ‘Kid, I’m not gonna put you in a mall — that will just hurt you.’ I waited for another village-owned spot, and it has been the best spot for us. It is near O’Hare and Rosemont Horizon, a sports and concert venue — and to this day, it is my top-seller. I have to thank him for that because in a mall, only people in the mall would have been our customer base. I’m very appreciative!

Our third location was in Addison, and we just kept going from there. When I started, I had one goal: I have 10 siblings and I wanted everyone to open a location. We now have 15 locations and all of my siblings except for two own at least one location — some own two.

3 Restaurants are facing many challenges today, many related to labor issues. How have you managed to continue to grow?

We’re a family-owned business and we treat our staff like family. That helps with retention — for example, we have several employees who have been with us since we opened

HAGA CLIC AQUÍ PARA LEER EN ESPAÑOL

“Franchising also is part of treating employ s like family by providing them a way to become own s. One of the reason’s I partn ed with Fransmart is to give employ s the opportunity to have the same succ s as memb s of my family have.”

our first location in 2013. It also helps build passion for our brand.

There are three things overall that we focus on — things that I think are important for any restaurant owner:

First, you have to connect with your staff. It doesn’t matter what your position is, you should know your employees. Taking time to speak and get to know each person working for the company goes a long way in bringing the whole team together.

Second, you should make sure you know all elements of your business — and that means getting behind the counter. During COVID, I and many members of our corporate team came into the stores to help. It is important for your employees to know you are all in this together, especially when there are challenges.

And third, it is important to have tracks in your company for your employees of all levels to be promoted. We joined the National Restaurant Association’s Restaurant & Hospitality Leadership Center (RHLC) program that provides certifications to line cooks, kitchen managers and restaurant managers.

4 In late 2023, you took steps to franchise. Tell me a bit about what led to that decision and how it is going so far.

My first goal was to have all of my family members have a Cilantro Taco Grill; my second goal was to become a franchise. I knew I would have to be financially stable … and about a year and a half ago, I said to my brothers, my nephew and my son, ‘I’m ready — let’s launch!’

We’re currently working really hard on that with the franchise development company Fransmart, and we’re getting good traction. We have our first franchisee in Sugar Grove, recently signed someone from California, and have interest from throughout the country.

Franchising also is part of treating employees like family by providing them a way to become owners. One of the reasons I partnered with Fransmart is to give employees the opportunity to have the same success as members of my family have.

Everything I’ve done has been tied in with family. My dad, Don Javi, did an excellent job with us and all of this is in his honor. During his last days, he said, ‘Thank you for taking care of the family. I go in peace. Stay together. That is the greatest satisfaction of all — that completes me.’

5 What advice would you like to share with restaurant owners who have one location and are thinking of adding more?

Don’t take any shortcuts! That is what I would tell anyone thinking of growing or franchising their concept. We all have a dream, and you have to set goals. But be careful! For example, you might think ‘I don’t have to hire an attorney.’ But cutting corners is a no-no! Anything is possible…but take your time. You don’t want to jump the gun because if you do, it can break you.

C O C K T A I L the craft of the

Shelby Mastro’s Golden Berry Smash

| BY KATHLEEN FURORE

| Frozen or on the rocks? Rimmer or no rimmer? House or premium liquor? Those are the basic questions guests have to answer when ordering cocktails. The question that the bartenders pouring those cocktails must answer isn’t quite as easy to answer: “How can I craft the kind of creative cocktails that will make those customers happy and make them want to order more?”

The first step in the process is figuring out just what “creative” means in the world of mixology. Is it experimenting with different ingredients? Upgrading presentation?

It’s a little bit of both, according to Shelby Mastro, who has developed cocktails for a variety of restaurants throughout her career, and currently serves

as the bar manager at Cielo Mexican Restaurant in Braintree, Massachusetts.

“So, I usually break creative cocktails down into two categories: riffs on classics and wholly original drinks,” Mastro explains.

Riffs on classics, she says, are easy. “Take a Paloma, add some muddled strawberry and cracked pepper and you have a fun new spin on a classic drink!”

It’s a different story when it comes to original creations.

“Those drinks are a bit tougher. You throw flavors together hoping for the best — something new and innovative —but ultimately preparing for the worst,” Mastro says.

And what about presentation?

“When it comes to presentation, I always say people drink with their eyes long before they take their first sip,” Mastro says. “So, I’m always trying to keep my garnishes fresh and exciting with micro flowers, exotic fruit, smoke, or even flavored ice gooseberries).

Mastro’s Golden Berry Smash and the Dragonfruit Spritz are two examples of her approach to creative mixology. The gin-based Golden Berry Smash features golden berries — tart, sweet, orangecolored berries native to the Peruvian and Ecuadorian Andes (they’re exotic enough that they’re often confused with gooseberries). The spritz is a refreshing drink made with dragonfruit, lime, citrus syrup, tequila and soda, then garnished with micro-flowers.

THE GARNISH GAME

Mexican and Latin restaurants have upped their game when it comes to the way they garnish many of the drinks on their bar menus.

For example, at Moe’s Cantina in Chicago’s busy River North neighborhood,

“ When it comes to presentation, I always say people drink with their eyes long before they take their first sip. S o, I ’m always trying to keep my garnishes fresh and exciting with micro flowers, exotic fruit, smoke, or even flavored ice.“

SHELBY MASTRO, Cielo Mexican Restaurant

the Horchata Paradise — homemade horchata, rum, and prickly pear puree — is topped with walnuts and cantaloupe garnishes.

Many garnishes are actually “extras” that accompany the cocktails.

At Barrio Queen in Surprise, Arizona — one of the brand’s eight Arizona locations — garnish comes in the form of jamaica/blueberry syrup that’s served with the popular Toloache Margarita. “We prep it at the bar in a sidecar, deliver it to the table, and pour some on top to create a cascading effect,” Chris Kelton, manager, says. “We leave the rest in the glass on the table so the customer can add it and make the cocktail as sweet as

Shelby Mastro's Dragonfruit Spritz

Barrio Queen Toloache Margarita

they want. The contrast of the dark color creates a delightful burgundy elixir.”

Popsicles are the creative garnishes Cocina de Barrio uses to enhance the Signature Craft Cocktails menu available its three locations — two in San Diego and one in Encinitas, California. The La Tia Chata — a luscious libation of Rumchata, vodka, horchata, creamer and lime — comes with a coconut popsicle; the Popsicle Margarita offers customers a choice of popsicle flavors.

And then there are the garnishes that are, quite literally, hot.

Examples include the Holy Water, a potent mixture of house-infused spiced rum, orgeat syrup, lime juice, and lemon that’s garnished with half of a lime that’s been hollowed-out, filled with liquor, and lit tableside at Amaru in Chicago; the Polanco on Fire at Paraiso Taqueria in Washington, D.C., which features Abasolo Whiskey, Nixta, Cocchi Americano, and smoke; and the Smoked Sage & New Mexican Hatch Chile Margarita at Wolf in the Woods in Mission Hills, California.

Cocina de Barrio La Tia Chata

BALANCE REQUIRED

With all of the ways mixologists can add flavor and flair to the cocktails they craft, can they go too far with creativity behind the bar?

Mastro says they can. She recommends balancing bar menus with a selection of both craft cocktails and more basic but high-quality drinks.

“A bartender can go too far with creativity when the drink doesn’t match with their current clientele,” she says. “The Smoked Trout Skin cocktail I came across in a Boston bar would not sell at my current restaurant, not because it wasn’t tasty, but because I have no audience for it.”

There are times, she adds, when basic works best in the craft cocktail world — those times are when cocktails are made with premium spirits, especially tequila, Mastro explains.

For simple fruit-forward Margaritas, Mastro says brands like Primo, Volans, and Codigo “should be the stars of the show, mixing those brands with just a bit of citrus juice, agave, and fresh fruit purées such as those from The Perfect Purée of Napa Valley.”

For bartenders at Mexica/Latin concepts who want to upgrade their cocktail menus but aren’t sure where to start, Mastro offers this advice:

“When it comes to upgrading the cocktail

menus, you simply start by asking yourself questions. Do we want to highlight a certain region of Mexico? Do we want to explore spirits outside of tequila, mezcal, rum, and cachaça? Do our customers have more traditional or experimental

tastes? Do we want to add tiki or prohibition cocktail influences? Once you’re able to answer such questions, a menu has already started to take shape!”

Kathleen Furore is the editor of el Restaurante.

Moe's Horchata Cocktail Paraiso Taqueria's Polanco on Fire

Wolf In the Woods Smoked Sage & New Mexican

THE SW T SPOT: Family-Style Dining Fi s the Gap Betw n Regular Menu and Cat ing

| BY ED AVIS | When some groups of customers visit Lonesome Rose, a TexMex restaurant with locations in Chicago’s hip Logan Square and Andersonville neighborhoods, they don’t order individual menu items. Rather, they enjoy family-style platters of the restaurant’s signature dishes.

The family-style menu options, which Lonesome Rose began offering just over a year ago, offer benefits for those customers and the restaurant.

“It definitely works well for people who are celebrating a special occasion or birthdays or even corporate outings,” says Crystal Wells, assistant director of private events, catering and production for Land and Sea Dept., the parent company of Lonesome Rose. “Even a lot of our regular customers that come in weekly with smaller groups got excited once we started doing these.”

BIG SERVINGS FOR CUSTOMERS

At its core, family-style dining means serving dishes in platters or bowls rather than individually plated, just like at a family Sunday dinner. And there is enough of each item that every member of the group can get a full serving. This differs from tapas, which often are shared but rarely offer more than a small bite for each customer in the party. Family-style dishes typically are popular menu items, just in substantially larger sizes.

At Lonesome Rose, family-style dining options are offered as multi-course packages for groups of from six to 24 people. That’s the sweet spot for this type of service, because smaller parties are better served from the regular menu and larger groups are big enough to order from the restaurant’s catering menu.

The Lonesome Rose family-style package begins with a Margarita or a spirit-free cocktail, accompanied by a chips-and-dips

A family-style meal at Lonesome Rose

Tips for R taurants

Lonesome Rose restaurant offers family-style dining at both of its Chicago locations. Crystal Wells, assistant director of private events, catering and production for Land and Sea Dept., the parent company of Lonesome Rose, offers two tips for restaurants thinking of adding family-style options to their menus:

• Use existing menu items to create family-style packages. Those are already tested items that your kitchen prepares well.

“Maybe include items that you really love, but which aren’t seeing as much popularity as you’d like,” Wells says. “You can build a package around it and create a buzz.”

• Use the packages as a way to incentivize larger groups

“You can build these to target the audiences and the types of diners that you’re looking for,” Wells says.

platter that includes fresh tortilla chips with two salsas — Tomatillo Crudo and Pineapple Habanero — plus Chile con Queso and California Avenue Street Corn.

“This is a great starter for the table,” Wells says. “You get all of our good dips and really start getting into it.”

A family-size bowl of salad follows. The salad changes with the season; at press time it was the Lonesome Wedge Salad — a mix of Little Gem lettuce, roasted peppers, radish, corn, black beans, red onion, pickled sweet peppers, queso fresco and cilantro topped with house-made green goddess dressing.

The main course is a pre-ordered selection of three tacos from the restaurant’s six offerings: Fried Chicken, Baja Fish, Rodrigo’s Al Pastor, Tinga de Garbanzo, Carne Asada or El Dorado Supreme. The package includes three tacos per person.

Slices of Dulce de Leche Pie — made by Bang Bang Pie & Biscuits, an artisanal bakery located beside Lonesome Rose’s Logan Square location — finish off the meal for each customer.

THE MECHANICS

At Lonesome Rose, customers must pre-order the family-style packages at least 48 hours before they arrive. This helps the restaurant plan for the group and ensures that the tasty chips and dips arrive just as guests show up. As an added incentive to book the family deal in advance, the restaurant honors seating preferences.

“This guarantees the customers not only a fantastic meal, but it guarantees the reservation,” Wells explains. “If people want to be seated exclusively on our rooftop or on the patio, that’s a guarantee that also comes along with these bookings.

It kind of takes the guesswork out, especially if you’re bringing a large group of people. It’s about getting the group together so that you don’t have to spend too much time over the menu. You don’t have to choose at all, and you can just go right in to socializing. And it’s also nice because the tables are preset, and it looks really cute. We print menus for it, so everyone gets to see the menu of what’s to come.” (continued on page 27)

(continued from page 25)

“Typica y, people wi come in, grab a couple of drinks and a few tacos…We find that this is more advantageous because we have a high check av age built in with the family- yle dinn .” CRYSTAL WELLS, LONESOME ROSE

Wells explains that preparing a family-style dinner that has been pre-ordered is much easier for the kitchen than serving the same number of people ordering individually, especially given the expansive size of Lonesome Rose’s menu. And the timing of the meal is easier, too, because the kitchen and the server know approximately when people are arriving and when each course will be served. Naturally the restaurant is happy to accommodate special dietary needs of customers, and the preorder process makes that easier, too.

As far as servingware, the restaurant had some large-format platters and bowls on-hand for catering orders, but ordered more to ensure they could provide a consistent look. They also created standard operating procedures for plating the family-style dinners to remove any guesswork from the back-of-the-house workers.

BIG ADVANTAGES FOR BUSINESS

If six customers walk into your restaurant and order six cocktails and six entrees, that’s a probably a good check. So, would you risk diminishing that check if you offered a family-style package? Not if you set it up right.

For example, because Lonesome Rose offers a multi-course meal, they can comfortably charge $55 per person for the package, which is more than the average per-person check.

“Typically, people will come in, grab a couple of drinks and a few tacos. Maybe they’re not also ordering the salad, not also ordering the chips, not also ordering pie, right?” Wells says. “We find that this is more advantageous because we have a higher check average built in with the family-style dinner.”

Nevertheless, customers love the deal, Wells says. They recognize that they are getting a lot of food for a set price. And they get to try more menu items than they would on a normal visit to the restaurant. For example, rarely would a customer ordering off the regular menu choose chips with two salsas, queso and street corn, but that’s standard in the family-style meal. And the salads and the dessert in the package change regularly, so even customers who order the family-style dinner more than once get to try new things.

The bottom line is that a family-style program can make customers happy while generating more revenue for the restaurant. “It never really hurts to try it,” Wells says. “We’ve had really great success with it.”

Ed Avis is the publisher of el Restaurante.

New Tak on TLAYUDAS

| BY KATHLEEN FURORE

| Just what is a tlayuda?

An Instagram post from Chef Gustavo Romero’s Nixta tortilleria in Minneapolis touting the tlayuda topped with frijoles, quesillo, beef salpicon, avocado, and tatemada salsa at Oro by Nixta, Romero’s full-service restaurant that debuted in 2023 next door, explained it this way:

“Explain it? Ugh, it’s hard. I mean on the one hand it’s like a giant head sized singular nacho topped with all the things (beef, salsa, beans, freshies, avos), I mean sure smash it through the middle and make smaller nachos, but it’s also a lot like a pizza? On a crunchy tortilla? Use your hands, use your fork, w/e just make sure you use your noodle and don’t overthink it, just come try it!”

The basic definition goes something like this: It’s a

Oaxacan street food made with a large, thin, crunchy tortilla topped refried beans, asiento, lettuce or cabbage, avocado, meat, queso Oaxaca, and salsa.

But as chefs at Mexican and Latin-themed restaurants are proving, there are ways to take the dish beyond the basics — and customers are embracing their new takes on tlayudas.

Case in point: The rotating menu of tlayudas from Chef Jackie Hernández at Chicago’s Bar Sótano, a restaurant in the Chef Rick Bayless stable that recently made the list of Wine Enthusiast’s Best Mezcal Bars of 2024. Hernandez’s tlayuda even got a call-out in the review of the mezcals:

“…Chef de cuisine Jaqueline Hernández takes Mexican bar bites to a new level, with dishes like a black mole tlayuda with Brussels sprouts and parsnips and lion’s mane mushroom ‘Milanesa.’”

That rendition was just one of several in Hernandez’s arsenal of artisan tlayudas that Bayless encouraged the chef to create.

“The idea came originally from Chef Rick Bayless — he encouraged me to take on the task to find new flavors and explore new ways that would represent us as a restaurant

(continued on page 31)

“The bi t prep tip I have when it com to th e delicate beauti is to always toa them slightly before using them or building the tlayuda. The toa ing helps them become more able for you to build on and it incorporat much more flavor.” CHEF JACKIE HERNÁNDEZ

Bar Sótano’s Fall Tlayuda

Bar Sótano’s Sashimi Tlayuda

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but also Mexican cuisine as a whole,” Hernández recalls. “Yes, the typical beans and cheese tlayuda is amazing, but when you bring upscale versions of a traditional dish people become more interested in the history behind it all.”

Hernández’s approach often takes seasonal flavors into account.

She created a Fall Tlayuda with Prairie Fruits Farm goat cheese infused with sweet potato, roasted Brussels sprouts, brown-butter apples, crispy sweet potatoes, and red chile oil; her summer version featured a crunchy Oaxacan tostada layered with avocado mash, local snap peas, coconut-infused lentils, red jalapeño, cilantro, and toasted coconut.

Other offerings include a Salmon Tlayuda with hibiscus chile crunch, and the recently added Tlayuda de Mole Negro made with Prairie Fruits Farm goat cheese, Oaxacan black

MTlayudas t Nachos at Tabú

When Tabú restaurant debuted in Chicago’s hot Fulton Market in 2022, then-general manager Pepe Fernandez told Eater Chicago, “It’s a fun, modern twist on Latin cuisine.”

According to Executive Chef Carlos Canta-

tore, the spot’s fun vibe played into the decision to add Tlayuda Nachos to the menu.

“Tabú is a very playful restaurant,” Cantatore says. “The Tlayuda Nachos we invented with the idea of making a show out of nachos.”

To make the nachos, the kitchen team places pickled red onion, adobo beans, escabeche, sour cream, cilantro, and

mole, charred brussels sprouts, butter-roasted parsnips, toasted almonds, and añejo cheese.

“There are always two tlayudas on the menu at a given time. One is always vegetarian while the other one almost always is a mariscos-inspired one,” Hernández says. “I tend to change them both at different times rotating them on an 8- to 10-week basis.”

white cheddar sauce — which the chef calls “the base ingredients” — in a large bowl, covers those ingredients with a tlayuda, then tops the tlayuda with more of those ingredients.

“Tableside we use a maraca to smash the tlayuda into smaller pieces for a dramatic presentation,” he says. “Guests can then dig in.”

Those base ingredients never change, but guests can add items like chorizo or grilled steak, Cantatore says.

How popular is the dish? And how is it from a food cost/profit perspective?

“It is very popular and costs us 25 percent in food cost,” the chef shares.

It’s been a successful formula.

“Our tlayudas sell extremely well at the restaurant, especially because they’re almost always gluten-free and shareable,” Hernández says, noting that one especially popular offering was inspired by a trip to Mexico City. “It was a Sashimi Tuna Tlayuda with thin sliced big eye tuna, avocado, chipotle ‘special sauce,’ crispy capers, serranos.”

While tlayudas can seem simple to make, Hernandez offers some advice for chefs thinking of adding them to their menus.

“The biggest prep tip I have when it comes to these delicate beauties is to always toast them slightly before using them or building the tlayuda,” Hernández says. “The toasting helps them become more stable for you to build on and it incorporates much more flavor.”

See a recipe for Hernandez’s Salmon Tlayuda on page 39.

Kathleen Furore is the editor of el Restaurante

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Bar Sótano’s Summer Tlayuda

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How to Decide:

BASIC VS. SPECIALTY GLASSWARE

| BY KATHLEEN FURORE

| “Glassware is an essential part of any successful bar as it represents the first visible impact of the drink being served.”

That assessment, from Livio Lauro, director of mixology at Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits of Nevada, sums up why the glasses you use behind the bar carry more than liquid refreshments; they carry a message about your business, too.

But how can you decide the kind of glasses that will work best for your Margaritas, sangrias, pisco sours and more?

Lauro says finding the right balance is key.

“Glassware should always be aligned with the business concept, and does not always need to be the best,” Lauro explains. “Some of the most iconic glasses break all the rules of the ‘tactile importance’ of the glass while remaining the

perfect glassware for their purpose.”

Tempe, Arizona-headquartered Macayo’s Mexican Food has built a successful bar program by following that approach.

At each of the restaurant’s 12 locations throughout Arizona, cocktails come in many kinds of glasses — some basic, some more upscale — depending on what drink is being served.

“Our house Margarita and the majority of our cocktails are served in tall, clear pint glasses,” says Ashley Negron, Macayo’s vice president of marketing, noting that the restaurant’s premium drinks arrive in more upscale, artisan glassware.

“Our Perfect Patrón Margarita is hand-shaken tableside and served with a Patrón shaker on the side, so we use tall, blue-rimmed glasses,” Negron says.

“Glassware should always be aligned with the busin s concept, and do not always n d to be the b t. Some of the mo iconic glass break a the rul of the ‘tactile importance’ of the glass while remaining the p fect glassware for their purpose.”

LIVIO LAURO, Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits of Nevada

Plain Pint Glass

Specialty Margarita Glass

Guava Colada Mug

Cantarito mug

The short clay mug with a handle Macayo’s uses for its Cantarito is another example.

“That is what is traditionally used in Mexico to serve that drink, so we wanted to be authentic,” Negron explains.

Even sangrias get specialty glass treatment: They’re served in rocks glasses etched with Macayo’s signature bird icon.

Choosing glassware that “enhances the taste, aroma, and overall enjoyment of the drink it’s serving” is another consideration, Lauro says.

Macayo’s considered those things when selecting a specialty clay mug that’s reserved for its Guava Colada — a drink that has to stay cold to retain the best flavor and texture.

“That is a good fit for that cocktail because it is a frozen drink and that mug insulates it well,” Negron explains. “Also, the Guava Colada is more like an island cocktail, so the mug makes a good presentation, too.”

Specialty glasses, of course, typically are pricier than their basic counterparts — but Macayo’s believes it is worth the investment.

“The specialty glassware certainly increases costs, which is why we only use it on a limited number of items,” Negron says. “But it provides a little bit of flair and as servers move through the dining room with those cocktails, it catches customers’ eyes, and they’ll ask about the cocktails.”

And there are options for businesses with limited budgets, Lauro notes.

“They can head down to the restaurant supply store and find unpopular shaped glassware that is priced cheaper and just might offer that iconic shape they are looking for,” Lauro says.

Signature Glass = P manent Promotion

More than 40 years ago, Macayo’s introduced its first signature Margarita mug that customers could purchase in-house and bring back for refills at a discounted price. That promotion has continued ever since, offering customers a chance to build a collection of mugs and offering the restaurants a chance to capture add-on sales.

“We have provided sombrero mugs in our program for more than 40 years! It started with Señor Bob and Señorita Cha Cha and we change it every year or so. For example, in 2022 for National Margarita Day, we introduced the bird mugs,” Ashley Negron, Macayo’s vice president of marketing, explains. “Customers can buy a house Margarita that includes the mug for $11.99 and get refills in that mug for $4.99 after that, always! It’s very popular. The mugs have become collectors’ items and customers will come in with their old ones — it is really a fun part of the program.”

The signature mugs aren’t the only glassware customers can buy. The clay mugs used for Macayo’s Cantarito and Guava Colada cocktails, the etched rocks glasses used for sangrias, and other signature glassware also are available for sale online.

Sangria Glasses

SHAKING UP SANGRIA: How to Update a Bar Classic

| BY ELYSE GLICKMAN

| Basic wine-based sangrias are popular cocktails in Mexican and Latin-themed restaurants. If you’re looking for ways to put a fresh, creative spin on sangrias you serve, consider how bar pros across the U.S. are shaking up their recipes for sangria.

MARK SOTELINO, partner, Cafe Ba-BaReeba! and Lil Ba-BaReeba! in Chicago. “Sangria, at its base, is a simple punch that is best enjoyed on the beach, and we think our classic recipe nails that,” Sotelino says. “But as we are in Chicago, we [also] look at sangria as a cocktail where we can inject seasonal flavors. Apple and cinnamon is a classic Midwest pairing in the colder months. And cava, the sparkling wine of Spain, is a great substitute for the classic red wine that adds some elegance and bright acidity to the cocktail.”

SHELBY MASTRO, bar manager at Cielo Mexican Restaurant in Braintree, Massachusetts. Mastro likes to take a seasonal approach to sangrias, too. “Living in New England, I try to use what’s in season right now, which keeps my sangrias especially fun, fresh and ever-changing,” says Mastro. “I like to play around in my herb garden in the summer and spice cabinet in the winter and have started topping my sangrias with prosecco and Lambrusco instead of soda or Sprite. I also make small containers of sangria-soaked fruit for garnishing. Keeping the fresh fruit separate from the large batches of sangria makes it easier to monitor the shelflife of both.”

DAVID ORTIZ, corporate beverage director for Rocco’s Tacos and Tequila Bar, with nine locations across South Florida. Ortiz likes that there are a variety of ways to change

up a sangria recipe, from using white and rosè wines instead of red or adding an orange liqueur — Grand Marnier, for example — to boost the alcohol percentage. Pineapple juice can be a nice addition to sangrias, while coconut water in white sangria, and a touch of port in red, can enhance the flavor in a way that heightens the cocktail, Ortiz says.

REISLER MORALES, global corporate mixologist, Richard Sandoval Hospitality. At Maya, Sandoval’s flagship modern Mexican restaurant in New York City, sangria made with red wine, Jamaica syrup, cinnamon, strawberries, mint, orange and cucumber is one of the biggest draws of Sunday brunch. “It pairs with most of our Mexican dishes,” Morales says.

CHEF JULIAN MEDINA, Soledad, New York City. Medina opened Soledad as a tribute to his grandmother Soledad’s cookbook, which dates to the 1950s; his Soledad Sangria reflects his reverence for her cooking. Whatever the recipe, Medina makes sure to use the freshest fruit possible — a combination of green apples, peaches and oranges is one example. “We change our sangria seasonally to incorporate fruit that’s available and in its prime,” says Medina, who notes restaurants can easily customize their sangria recipes using their favorite combination of fruits.

See recipes from these five mixology pros on page 39.

Elyse Glickman is a Los Angelesbased freelance writer who specializes in bar topics.

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Cover Recipe

Golden Berry Smash

Shelby Mastro, Cielo Mexican Restaurant, Braintree, Massachusetts

Makes 1 cocktail

1 oz. ruby red grapefruit juice

1 barspoon homemade dragonfruit and golden berry jam*

1 oz. gin

¼ oz. lemon juice

Sparkling rosé to top off the cocktail

Golden berries, for garnish

Add all ingredients except the rosé to a shaker; shake, then pour over ice into a rocks glass; top off with sparkling rosé. Garnish with golden berries.

*Blend fruits with sugar and water, then cook it down

Salmon Tlayuda

Jaqueline Hernandez, Bar Sótano, Chicago

Makes 1 tlayuda

6 oz. Ōra King salmon (or salmon of your choice), diced Hibiscus chile crunch (recipe follows)

¼ jicama, small dice

2 avocados (for avocado mash)

Splash of lime juice

Salt

Cilantro, for garnish

Make a simple avocado mash with 2 avocados, a splash of lime juice and salt.

In a bowl mix salmon, jicama and chile crunch and season to taste.

To prepare the tlayuda:

Spread avocado mash as the base on the tlayuda, then top with salmon-jicama mixture and top off with cilantro or any green of your choice.

The chile crunch:

1 ancho chile, stemmed, seeded, and cut into rings

1 oz. (30g) whole organic dried hibiscus flower

In a small skillet over mediumhigh heat, warm vegetable oil until it’s hot but not sizzling. Add the ancho and fry for about 1 minute. Transfer the chile to the prepared plate to drain. Using the same pan and hot oil, fry the hibiscus flowers until crisp, then place them on the plate to drain.

When the chile and hibiscus are cool enough to handle, place them on a cutting board and chop them together until you have a deep red crumble of little bits.

Meat and Mole Tlayuda

Doña María® brand/ MegaMex Foods, LLC

Makes 2 servings

4 (6-inch) corn tortillas

2 T. olive oil

1½ c. vegetable broth

⅓ c. DOÑA MARÍA® Mole Original

1 lb. flank steak, cooked

½ c. shredded Oaxaca cheese

2 T. sesame seeds

2 avocados, sliced 2 tomatoes, sliced Heat oven to 450° F. Arrange tortillas on large rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with oil. Bake 12 to 18 minutes or until crisp.

In large stock pot over medium heat, combine vegetable stock and DOÑA MARÍA® Mole Original. Spread 2 tablespoons mole mix over baked tortillas.

Add 4 to 5 strips of steak per tortilla. Top with cheese and sesame seeds. Serve with avocados and tomatoes.

White Stone Fruit Sangria

Shelby Mastro, Cielo Mexican Restaurant, Braintree, Massachusetts Makes 1 cocktail

¾ oz. Cointreau

2½ oz. Sauvignon Blanc

½ oz. Brandy

1 oz. The Perfect Purée White Peach Puree, thawed

3 thyme sprigs

1 orange peel, expressed ¼ peach, chopped ¼ plum, chopped

2 cherries, pitted

1 oz orange juice

Splash soda

Combine all ingredients, stir and serve.

Cava Sangria

Mark Sotelino, Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba! & Lil Ba-Ba-Reeba!, Chicago

Makes 4 to 5 cocktails

1 bottle of Santa Monica Cava (750 ml), or cava of your choice

2 oz. Licor 43

2 oz. Crème de Cassis

Assorted chopped fruit (apples, oranges, lemons) and ice

Combine Licor 43, Crème de Cassis and fruit in a large pitcher and mix to fully combine. Slowly pour in cava so as to maintain as many bubbles as possible. Give the ingredients a light stir to combine. Add ice and serve.

Rocco’s Modern Spanish-style Red Table Wine Sangria

David Ortiz, Rocco’s Tacos and Tequila Bar, Florida

Makes one 64-ounce pitcher

2 oz. London Dry Gin

4 oz. VS Brandy

8 oz. orange juice

1 c. (8 oz.) diced fruit — 1 apple, 1 orange, 1 lime

1 bottle red table wine

6 oz. ginger ale soda

In a 64-oz. pitcher, add the first 4 ingredients. Fill the pitcher with ice, then add the bottle of wine and ginger ale and stir with wooden spoon. Serve in 10-oz. wine glasses filled with fresh ice and garnished with a little more chopped fruit on top.

Maya House

Sangria Maya

Richard Sandoval Hospitality, New York City

Makes 1 cocktail

5 oz. house red wine

1 oz. homemade spice syrup

1 oz. lime lemon soda

5 mint leaves

3 slices of cucumber

1 pc. strawberry sliced Mint, cucumber, strawberry and orange, for garnish

Add all the ingredients in a shaker with ice. Mix with throwing technique. Serve in a highball glass and garnish with fresh fruits.

Soledad Sangria

Chef Julian Medina, Soledad, New York City

Makes 4 cocktails

1 bottle white wine

½ bottle red wine

2 c. orange liqueur

1 c. brandy

½ c. of sugar

1 c. diced green apples

1 c. diced peaches

½ c. diced oranges

Marinate the fruit with the orange liqueur, sugar and brandy for 10 minutes. Mix all the ingredients in a pitcher and serve over ice in a wine glass.

HAGA CLIC AQUÍ PARA LEER EN ESPAÑOL

EXECUTIVE CHEF

BLANCA ZESATI

Fonda San Miguel

FONDA SAN MIGUEL became the first restaurant in Texas to focus exclusively on true, authentic regional Mexican cuisine from Oaxaca, Puebla, Veracruz and Yucatan when Tom Gilliland and the late Miguel Ravago debuted the concept in Austin in 1975.

Today — almost a half-century later — Fonda San Miguel is thriving, with Executive Chef Blanca Zesati incorporating De La Tierra dishes into a menu that continues to explore the authentic tastes and developing trends of Mexico.

As the restaurant’s website explains, “All are dishes rooted in the traditional recipes of interior and coastal regions of Mexico while returning to what the earth provides, thus the name ‘De la Tierra.’”

Zesati focuses on researching and sourcing the most authentic, up-to-date ingredients and dishes, and even has traveled to Merida and Oaxaca with Gilliland to collaborate with several renowned chefs.

One of her favorite dishes: Molotes de Platano Macho. “We learned how to make Molotes de Plátano Macho with Chef Rodolfo Castellanos, the Top Chef winner of Mexico and chef/owner of Origen in his hometown of Oaxaca,” Zesati says. “These little football-shaped stuffed plantains are fun and quick and easy to make…and the variety of fillings you can do with the plantain is so wide.”

While the molotes can be stuffed with beans or chorizo, or any other ingredient chefs may prefer, Zesati uses Oaxaca cheese and serves the dish with mole poblano, sour cream, and queso fresco.

Molot de Plátano Macho con Qu i o: Plantain Ro s Stu ed with Qu i o Ch se

6 each plantains

3 T. sunflower oil

Salt to taste

1 c. granulated sugar

½ lb. butter, diced

12 oz. quesillo or Oaxaca cheese, diced All-purpose flour, as needed

1 c. canola oil for pan frying Sour cream and queso fresco, for garnish

Pre-heat oven to 350°F. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper. With the tip of your knife, prick the plantains.

Oil and salt them very well and place on the cookie sheet. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes or until plantains are tender.

Peel the plantains into a medium sized bowl and discard the peel. Add the sugar and butter and smash the plantains.

As it cools you may begin to scoop out 2-ounce balls. Take a ball in your hand and form a patty or puck shape.

Add 1 ounce of diced cheese in the middle of your patty, then roll the patty around the cheese to form a football shape to seal in the cheese.

Once you have formed all the molotes, lightly coat them in all-purpose flour.

In a sauté pan, heat canola oil to 350°F. Once hot, add the molotes and brown on each side. You may baste the oil over to get a nice even color.

Plate with mole and garnish with sour cream and queso fresco.

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PHOTO BY TRACEY MAUER

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