The
The Official Publication of the National Costumers Association, Inc.
All That Jazz! NCA Conference Heads to Kansas City All About pattern making Mastering Mascot Restoration
May 2019
costumers.org
CONTENTS
12
features
12 Costumers Head to Kansas City Tips for Exploring “The New Midwest”
By Kathleen Furore
16 All About Pattern Making
A pre-conference primer from Kansa City Costume Co.’s Vincent Scassellati
19 Mascot Restoration
19
A Q&A with Dale Morton of Dale Morton Studio Mascot Costumes
departments
6
In the Industry—An updated look at the 2019 NCA Conference
22 Product Parade 24 My Favorite Costume
22 M AY 2 0 1 9
1
costumers.org
N C A A D M I N I S T R AT I O N BOARD OF DIRECTORS President
Marion Bradley 2019* Discount Costumes 494 Booth Road, Suite H Warner Robins, GA 31093 478-929-3500 president@costumers.org
Treasurer
Louella Torrence 2020* Drop Me A Line Costume Shop 1050 Lehigh Street Allentown, PA 610-435-7481 Fax 610-435-7428 dropmealine@rcn.com
Director
Gene Flaharty 2019* Mehron 100 Red Schoolhouse Road Chestnut Ridge, NY 10977 845-426-1700 Fax 845-426-1515 gflaharty@mehron.com
Director
Linda Adams-Foat 2019* Camelot Costumes, LLC 1321 S. Demeter Dr. Freeport, IL 61032 815-233-1861 camelot7@comcast.net
Vice President
Janine Caufield 2019* Caufield’s 1006 West Main St. Louisville, KY 40202 502-583-0636 Fax 502-583-2002 vp@costumers.org
Director
Terri Greenberg 2019* Halco 723 E. Railroad Ave. Verona, PA 15147 724-929-7300 Fax 724-929-7301 Terri@halcoholidays.com
Director
Dwayne Ibsen 2019* Ibsen Costume Gallery 4981 Hamilton St. Omaha, NE 68132 402-556-1400 Fax 402-556-5727 DwayneIbsen@ costumers.org
Director
Director
Pam Markel 2020* Illusive Skull Costume Castle 1314 Morgantown Ave. Fairmont, WV 26554 304-363-4785 Fax 304-366-9850 info@illusiveskull.com
Louella Torrence 2020* Drop Me A Line Costume Shop 1050 Lehigh Street Allentown, PA 610-435-7481 Fax 610-435-7428 dropmealine@rcn.com
*indicates end of current term
Like the NCA on Facebook! Go to www.costumers.org and look for the Facebook link at the bottom of the page! M AY 2 0 1 9
2
costumers.org
2019 STANDING COMMITTEE CHAIRS Buyer’s Group: NCA Home Office Staff The Costumer/Roster/Publications: Ed Avis Associates Disaster & Grievance: Janine Caufield, Caufield’s Executive Director Liaison: Marion Bradley, Discount Costume Historian: Don Knox, NCA Executive Director Membership: Gene Flaherty, Mehron and Janine Caufield, Caufield’s Memorial Fund/National Awards: Linda Adams-Foat, Camelot Costumes, LLC Nominations: Linda Adams-Foat, Camelot Costumes, LLC Plot Service: Lori Hammes, Curtains Up Costumes Policy & Procedures: Linda Adams-Foat, Camelot Costumes, LLC Publications Liaison: Marion Bradley, Discount Costume and Terri Greenberg, HALCO Time & Place: Dwayne Ibsen, Ibsen Costume Gallery and Janine Caufield, Caufield’s Web Site: Louella Torrence, Drop Me A Line Costume Shop and Don Knox, NCA Executive Director Bereavement: Terri Greenberg, HALCO Social Media: Janine Caufield, Caufield’s
ATTENTION ALL COSTUMERS Save The Date!
Mark your calendars for the
2020 Halloween & Party Expo!
Date: January 17 - 19th, 2020 Place: Ernest N. Morial Convention Center, New Orleans, Louisiana Watch future issues of The Costumer for more information.
We’ve Got Halloween All Wrapped Up Toll-Free (888) 229-2879 www.underwraps.net
For 2019 Catalog Requests, email info@underwraps.net
PRESIDENT ’S LETTER Presidential greetings from Georgia,
As temperatures rise here in Georgia, I am reminded of a phenomenon that tends to occur at my own costume shop: reduced foot traffic. It seems that once Easter hops on out of here, graduations start happening, school lets out and summer begins—and my costume shop just tiptoes along. This is also actually when I start thinking outside the box. I ask myself, “What can I do differently that will result in garnering some extra income?” I am pretty lucky that I do have a party business that is actually hopping at this same time of the year, so I just need to combine my resources in order for them both to be successful. The same is true of many of our NCA member shops; like my shop, they do offer “more than costumes” because we all realize that the more our costume shop offers, the higher chance of success—especially in this digital age of online shopping. Every year my town hosts a 4th of July event. Through my inflatable business, they asked me to do a kids’ zone, but they also allowed me to have a tent to sell my products. I grabbed all of my Uncle Sam hats, mustaches, wigs, and vests, along with anything else red, white, and blue that I could find and put it all up for sale. I was pleased at the outcome! So what are some other ways to drum up ancillary profits during a typically slow season? Does anyone in your shop do face painting? If so, get them out there to make money for you! When it comes to face painting, we get more requests than we can handle. And it doesn’t have to be extravagant. If this is your first time, consider ordering a face painting book, or check out online videos and practice, practice, practice! Many of our vendors have the supplies you need to get started. Have you got anyone on staff interested in balloon twisting? The same things apply here! You will be amazed at how much extra income you can bring in just by adding these two elements to your costume shop year-round. Speaking of balloon twisting…are you going to Kansas City for our amazing conference? If you would like to learn the basics of balloon twisting, I’ll be teaching that in my “Up, Up, and Away” education session during conference. If you attend, you’ll be able to go back to your town, order the product needed (it’s a low investment opportunity), and within a week start producing some extra income! Regarding conference: It’s not too late to pay to attend this year’s event, and you can make monthly payments, too! For details about all this year’s conference will offer, turn to page 6. I am so excited about going to the conference, as there will be people that I have not seen in several years. One of our most laughable moments will be when we do the always entertaining “Porpoise Review” on Saturday night. This five-minute event will hopefully garner some extra money for the NCA coffers, as we pass around the traditional “tip hat.” We have about a dozen people willing to play along, but we have room for more (smile). You only have to be able and willing to walk in 3 feet of water—no swimming required! We will hold a couple of dry run practice sessions, and one complete walk thru in the pool before we actually perform. Our efforts may not be televised by ESPN, you may not become a STAR, but your effort will nevertheless be forever appreciated by the National Costumers Association! If interested, please call me on my cell at 478-396-1204. Until next time, Marion Bradley, President National Costumers Association
Discount Costumes, Warner Robins, Georgia M AY 2 0 1 9
4
costumers.org
NCA National Headquarters Don Knox Executive Director P.O. Box 3406 Englewood, CO 80155 800-NCA-1321 Fax 303-200-7099 office@costumers.org
The Costumer Publications Office Ed Avis Associates P.O. Box 13347 Chicago, IL 60613 708-218-7755 pub@costumers.org Ad Sales Ed Avis 708-218-7755 pub@costumers.org Editorial Inquiries Kathleen Furore 708-267-0023 kfurore@yahoo.com Art Director Michelle Crisanti info@mc2chicago.com ©2019, National Costumers Association. The Costumer is published by the National Costumers Association, Inc., with headquarters located at the above address, a nonprofit and incorporated association of costumers located in the United States, Australia, Bahamas, Canada, India, Ireland, Mexico, and Great Britain. No responsibility is assumed for the opinions expressed or claims made by the authors of articles or by advertisers. Appearance in the magazine does not constitute endorsement by the National Costumers Association, nor its officers or representatives.
www.costumers.org
A Christmas Tradition HALCO has everything you need to make Santa and his helpers look their best. Flip through our catalog online! 724-929-7300 phone 866-35-SANTA toll free 724-929-7301 fax www.halcoholidays.com
in the industry AN UPDATED LOOK AT 2019 NCA CONFERENCE PLANS
The National Costumers Association’s bi-annual conference is fast approaching—and The Costumer has all of the details about this much-anticipated event slated for July 19-21 at the Crowne Plaza Kansas City Downtown in Kansas City, Missouri! Here are just a few of the event highlights:
Conference Education Sessions Airbrushing. Everything you always wanted to know about airbrushing and the different types of makeup but were afraid to ask. Speaker: RJ Haddy, former finalist on Season 2 FaceOff See the Q&A with RJ Haddy on page 16 of this issue. Bringing Imagination to Life. Do you miss the good old days of dressing up? Then Cosplay, Cosplay and more Cosplay! Mascot Restoration. Learn the restoration, repair and cleaning techniques for your mascots. Speaker: Dale Morton, Dale Morton Studio (DMS) Mascot Costumes See the Q&A with Dale Morton on page 29 of this issue. Pattern Making and Draping. Learn or re-educate yourself in these essential costuming arts! Speaker: Vincent Scassellati, Kansas City Costume Co. See Scassellati’s thoughts about costuming in the My Favorite Costume feature on page 24 of this issue. Social Media. How to look outside the box and explore new avenues. Speaker: Tyson Murphy, A to Z Theatrical Shop Change Your Store Displays? Why??? How to create an attractive, clean store that is inviting for customers. Remember it’s all about the customer’s experience. Presentation by The Illusive Skull Costume Castle Up, Up and Away. Learn basic balloon art and the ease of upselling balloons in your store. Speaker: Marion Bradley, NCA president and owner of Balloons-N-Parties, LLC Making a Novice Makeup Artist Look Like a Pro. The world of 3D Tinsley Transfers Speaker: Aaron McFarland, Tinsley Transfer Grab Bag Makeup Forum. What do you know about the makeup you sell? Come and learn the versatile uses for the different makeup products you sell. Panel discussion with Gene Flaherty, Pam Markel and other guests M AY 2 0 1 9
6
costumers.org
Conference Calendar Plans are still being finalized for all of the great education sessions and events planned for this year’s conference. The following list includes all of the details available as this issue of The Costumer went to press. For the most updated information available, visit costumers.civicaconferences.com. Thursday July 18 Registration Tour Porpoise Practice
1:00 p.m. 3:00 p.m. 7:00 p.m
Friday July 19 Registration 8:00 a.m. Shop Talk, Newcomers, Business Meeting, Membership Forum 9:00 a.m. Break 11:00 a.m. Education 11:30 a.m. Lunch & Student Event 12:45 p.m. Education 1:30 p.m. A to Z Shop Tour with Light Hors D’oeuvres 5:00 p.m. Porpoise Practice 7:00 p.m. Kansas City Costume Co. Tour & BBQ Dinner 7:15 p.m. Saturday July 20 Registration 8:00 a.m. Education 9:00 a.m. Lunch & Creative Style Show 11:45 p.m. Education 1:15 p.m. Porpoise Practice 5:00 p.m. Porpoise Revue 5:15 p.m. Dinner, Board of Directors Installation, Awards & Silent Auction 6:30 p.m. Sunday July 21 Brunch Board Meeting
9 a.m. 10:30 a.m.
Register early and save! You’ll save when you pay in full by June 1.
Full Conference Registration Regular 2/2 – 6/1 Onsite NCA Member $349 $399 Non-Member $449 $499 One Day Registration (Friday or Saturday) NCA Member $200 Non-Member $250
$250 $300
To register visit www.costumers.civicaconferences.com.
Get Ready for Costume Shop Tours! Want to see how your peers in Kansas City operate their shops? Wonder what they stock and how they display and inventory their costumes? Then don’t miss the two shop tours scheduled for Friday, July 19 during this year’s conference! First up, starting at 5:00 p.m., is a visit to A to Z Theatrical Supply and Services—a company that has been serving the theater community not only in Kansas City but also nationwide for more than half a century. And their offerings include much more than just providing costumes. A to Z Theatrical Supply and Services also offers lighting packages, mascot design, event/ party planning, scenic design and construction and more! The next stop, scheduled to kick off at 7:15 p.m., is Kansas City Costume Co.—a business established in the 1920’s to serve the needs of what was then a growing city. Over the past 90 years, Kansas City Costume Co. has established itself as a
leading supplier of quality rental wardrobe for musical theatre. And that’s not only true in Kansas City! Today, the company serves customers from coast-to-coast from its Kansas City facility, offering tens of thousands of square feet full of awardwinning costumes (rental and sale), professional make up, and unique accessories including masquerade masks, professional grade wigs, stage beards, feather boas, and much more. Seeking Silent Auction Items The NCA is now accepting items to include in the popular Silent Auction scheduled for Saturday evening, July 20. Please only send items that are unique and special—things you yourself would want to bid on. Some examples: themed gift baskets (aromatherapy gift basket, artist’s basket, baked goods basket, M AY 2 0 1 9
8
costumers.org
beach days basket, bookworm basket, etc.), recently made hats or costumes, artwork, hotel stays, theater tickets, restaurant gift cards and homemade goodies. You can submit your donations using the online form available at civicamanagement.wufoo.com/forms/r9ee9dc00oumzl/. Become a Conference Sponsor The NCA is seeking sponsors for the 2019 conference. Opportunities include: $1,500 Presenting Sponsorship. Includes your company in event title (event presented by…), 4 conference registrations, a 2-minute speaking opportunity at beginning of the opening session, an electronic attendee list before conference, your logo on the front of the program, company collateral in registration packet, a listing in conference program, your logo spotlighted prominently during shop tours, signage recognition plus a listing on the NCA website for a full year. $800 Transportation Sponsorship. Includes your logo in program, a 1-minute speaking opportunity at beginning of the shop tours, your logo spotlighted prominently during shop tours, 3 conference registrations, your company collateral in registration packets, a listing in conference program, an electronic attendee list before conference plus a listing on the NCA website for 6 months. $500 Lanyard Sponsorship. Includes 1 conference registration, listing in conference program, listing on the NCA website for 6 months, company collateral in registration packets. (Lanyards to be provided by sponsor) $500 Conference Bag Sponsorship. Includes 1 conference registration, listing in conference program, listing on the NCA website for 6 months, company collateral in registration packets. (Conference bags to be provided by sponsor) $500 T-Shirt Sponsorship. Includes 2 conference registration, listing in conference program, listing on the NCA website for 6 months, company collateral in registration packets. (T-Shirts to be provided by sponsor) Speakers in the Spotlight: Aaron T. McFarland and Vincent Scassellati Graduating with a bachelor’s degree in Fine Arts from Texas Tech University, Aaron T. McFarland began his career making prosthetic transfers for film and television projects such as Westworld and American Horror Story. Through this experience he has helped develop a globally recognized brand in the consumer Halloween world. For the last 8 years he has led the research and development department of Tinsley’s Transfers, where he helps design unique, user friendly techniques for the makeup effects industry. Don’t miss McFarland’s presentation, “Making a Novice Makeup Artist Look Like a Pro—the World of 3D Tinley Transfers,” at conference. Vincent Scassellati of Kansas City Costume Co. has
M AY 2 0 1 9
9
costumers.org
designed more than 250 productions for professional theatres across the country. From 1964 until 2000, he was resident costume designer for Missouri Repertory Theatre and head of the costume design program at the University of Missouri - Kansas City. In addition to his work at the Rep, Scassellati has designed for the Great Lakes Shakespeare Company, The Muny in St. Louis, Theatre of the Stars in Atlanta, University of Michigan, Ogunquit Playhouse in Maine, Starlight Theatre, North Shore Music Theatre (Boston), Kansas City Ballet, Heartland Theatre, Dinner Theatres Inc., and many regional theatres. In productions as diverse as Shakespeare and Cats, he has designed for directors Cyril Ritchard (The Misanthrope), Albert Marre (Chalk Garden), Alexis Menotis (Oedipus Rex) and John Houseman. As staff designer at Kansas City Costume Co., he recently co-designed Beauty and the Beast and Little Mermaid and is working on a largescale production of Cinderella. In addition, there are Annie, Will Rogers Follies, Cats, Thoroughly Modern Millie, Damn Yankees, Grease, Aida, and Hairspray. His latest ‘Star’ design project was the 2011 Tour of “Hello Dolly!” with Michelle Lee and then 2013/2014 National Tour re-design of “Hello, Dolly!” starring Sally Struthers. For a sneak preview of “Pattern Making and Draping,” the education session Scassaletti will present during conference, see the story that starts on page 16 of this issue. Introducing…the NCA Staff
The NCA account team (l to r): Reese Lee, Susan Nolte, Jacqueline Bales, Kelli Catlin, Don Knox, Rina Braginsky, Allie Colgan, Veda Keech, Krista Matthews, Emily Dufour (sitting), and Sonja Hix (sitting). Not pictured: Kim Gill, Jessica Goth, BJ Kasten.
Have you ever wondered who works behind the scenes to make sure the NCA is running smoothly? It’s members of the Civica Associations Conferences & Exhibitions team in suburban Denver. There, staff members answer phones, handle membership renewals and inquiries, assist with governance issues, help organize NCA conferences, attend the Halloween & Party Expo convention, send emails and perform a M AY 2 0 1 9
10
costumers.org
multitude of other tasks. The Association key members who work on the NCA account include Susan Nolte, finance; Don Knox, executive director; and Allie Colgan, membership. In Memoriam… The NCA extends heartfelt condolences to the family of Herbert C. (Herb) Easley Jr., 85, of Phoenix, who passed away at home surround by his family on February 21, 2019. Herb was past president of the National Costumers Association, and the Easleys were very involved in the NCA for many years. He was born to Herbert C. Easley Sr. and Clara M. Skinner on December 21, 1933 in the small oil town of Taft, California. He grew up in Los Angeles and San Francisco, before moving to Phoenix in 1947, where he then graduated from North High School in 1951. After graduating, Herb enlisted in the United States Navy and served from 1953-1957 as an Aviation Photographer’s Mate with his final 18 months aboard the USS Valley Forge (CVS-45). In 1957 after his honorable discharge, he attended Phoenix College and Arizona State University. From 1959 to 1963 Herb landed a job with KTVKTV as a cameraman and audio operator before going to work with his father at Easley’s Fun Shop full time. Herb loved learning magic and also being a well-known ventriloquist. In 1985 he joined the National Costumers Association and was president from 1997-1999, attending conventions all over the United States for many years. He was a member of the local Ring 55 Magic Club and received a lifetime achievement award from the International Brotherhood of Magicians in October 2018. Herb was an enthusiast of World War II history, architecture, aviation, and trivia, and loved his daily
crossword puzzles. Herb is survived by his wife Carol Easley; daughters Debbie Easley and Dr. Leslie Easley-Dominguez ( Joe); grandchildren Ashley Butler (Ty), Samantha Herrera (Luis) and London Dominguez. He is also survived by great grandchildren Ashton Butler and Aubrey and Xenny Herrera. If you are interested in remembering Herb with a gift, the family suggests donating to your charity of choice in his name. A Message from the NCA’s Bereavement Committee If you are aware of an NCA member who passed away, please contact Terri Greenberg so we can send condolences and acknowledge the family. Call 724-929-7300 or email terri@halcoholidays.com. CORRECTION! We regret that the contact information for Smiffy’s was incorrectly listed in the Buyer’s Group Directory on page 26 of the February/March issue of The Costumer. The correct information is: Contact: Maxine Andrews Email: maxineandrews@smiffys.com Phone: 888-776-4339 ext 701 Fax : 888-776-4339
M AY 2 0 1 9
11
costumers.org
Costumers Head to
Kansas City
Tips for Exploring “The New Midwest” during NCA Conference
“The New Midwest. It wasn’t a thing until we made it. Because That’s How We Do Kansas City.”
That pronouncement from the Kansas City Visitors Bureau is really an invitation to explore all that Kansas City has to offer. Anyone heading to the National Costumers Association’s 2019 Conference in July will have myriad options to explore during any free time they might have. After all, National Geographic named Kansas City one of the “Best Trips in 2019!” As the KC Visitor’s Bureau says, “There’s something happening here. A new energy. A revolution of creativity, music, food, art, business—a renewed spirit in every neighborhood. A bigger idea of what the Midwest can be.”
Check into the Hotel The Crowne Plaza Kansas City Downtown is the site for this year’s NCA Conference. Located at 1301 Wyandotte Street, this full-service hotel is conveniently located in the heart of M AY 2 0 1 9
12
costumers.org
downtown Kansas City—a location that puts attendees near the Power & Light District, Crossroads Art District and the River Market Neighborhood. There’s also a fitness center and outdoor pool on site—in case exercise is part of your trip plans.
Travel Free Around Town The KC Streetcar will transport you, free of charge, on the 2.2-mile route along Main Street that connects the River Market to Union Station/Crown Center. There are 16 stops along the way…so you can jump on and off, depending on your destination. Explore the Neighborhoods Want to know a bit about all of the great areas spread throughout Kansas City? Here are just a few to check out while you’re there: Country Club Plaza. Kansas City is known as The City of Fountains. And you’ll find fountains, plus interesting statues and shopping, in this 15-block, Spanish-inspired neighborhood that has been called the “Rodeo Drive of the Midwest.” Kansas City Power & Light District. It’s in the heart of downtown…and this neighborhood doesn’t miss a beat with its 8 blocks full of bars, restaurants and shops, including The Garment District, a fashion collective with eight stores in one, complete with a full-service bar in the center.
M AY 2 0 1 9
13
costumers.org
Crossroads Arts District. Known as “the neighborhood that arts built,” this area features art galleries and restaurants in what used to be vacant warehouses throughout the neighborhood. 18th & Vine. Like jazz, barbecue, baseball and blues? This is the neighborhood where you’ll find all those things and more! Westport. You’ll discover a touch of history courtesy of the neighborhood’s historic buildings, old-style lampposts and tree-lined boulevards…but there are plenty of modern amenities, including venues featuring live music, craft beer and more, too!
West 39th Street. More than just an incredibly walkable strip of real estate between KU Med and Westport, West 39th Street is a funky collage of culture and cuisine—and one of the most colorful neighborhoods in the city. River Market. Nosh on international cuisine and browse stalls stocked with fresh produce in this 150-year-old riverfront neighborhood that’s been dubbed “a mecca for lovers of history, local produce and fresh eats.” Westside. A historically diverse neighborhood with Latino and Mexican-American influences, Westside features unique spots like Westside Storey, a small shop stocked with an eclectic mix of antiques plus items made by local artists.
Find the Best Barbecue Kansas City is known for its barbeque—so much so that there’s even an app to help you find the best of the best! Just download the app at KC BBQ Experience to get started!
Want more information about what you’ll find during your “spare time” at conference? You can find details about all of the neighborhoods, museums, restaurants and more at visitkc.com.
M AY 2 0 1 9
14
costumers.org
Geographically speaking… Kansas City straddles the Missouri-Kansas state line, sometimes causing travelers to wonder which state they are in. Here are a few tips to help: If you are west of State Line Road, you are in Kansas. If you are east of it, you are in Missouri. Follow the Missouri River to the north, and if you are west of it, you are in Kansas. East of it, you’re in Missouri. —Source: visitkc.com
M AY 2 0 1 9
15
costumers.org
conference highlight
Conference Sneak Preview: Pattern Making with Vincent Scassellati By Kathleen Furore
Editor’s Note: Vincent Scassellati , designer, cutter and draper
at Kansas City Costume Co. in Kansas City, Missouri, will be
presenting a session on pattern making and draping at the 2019 NCA Conference. In this interview, edited slightly for clarity,
Scassellati shares some tips he’ll elaborate on in his presentation.
The Costumer: What is your background in costuming? Where did you learn and perfect your pattern making and draping skills? Vincent Scassellati : I have a BA in English Literature and a Masters in Theatre with an emphasis in costume design. After
graduation, I did a couple semesters teaching and worked at UMKC [The University of Missouri-Kansas City] as the lead designer of the costume area in the theatre department. I was going to be working on design and not construction, but I was fortunate enough to have someone volunteer who was an extraordinary stitcher and pattern maker, and I learned the M AY 2 0 1 9
16
costumers.org
THE WORLDWIDE LEADER IN PET
COSTUMES AND ACCESSORIES GROW YOUR PET BUSINESS WITH PRODUCTS ON SPACE SAVING SEASONAL DISPLAYS!
LE IN B A L I AVA FFERENTICE DI ND PR A SIZESPOINTS!
fundamentals of pattern making from her. Then I continued to pattern, to read up on it…and I continued working on pattern making on my own. I took a job a Kansas City Costume Co. 20-plus years ago and I’m still here.
The Costumer: What are some of the biggest challenges costume pros face when it comes to pattern making? Scassellati : One of the biggest problems is taking exact, proper measurements. That is always a big sticking point with a pattern maker! It is much better to get exact measurements instead of going from a set of measurements you’ve been given and then finding out that they are two to three inches off. That makes an extraordinary difference in where seams and darts go, so it changes the whole map of the bodice if you have to change something that much. It would be optimal if an actor could come to meet with the pattern maker, but that’s not always possible. Designers, pattern makers and drapers often must get measurements from an actor’s past performance. The Costumer: What are some tips you have for costumers interested in improving their pattern making skills? Scassellati : You have to understand technical things like how many darts you need in a costume. And I think costumers need to do more research into period costuming and period clothing. Finding information is easier now than it has ever been— for example, there are a lot more museums doing clothing now—but people don’t do enough of it. Take a look at clothing from 1910 and see where the seams are, look at actual garments, read books and articles, look at pictures of the inside of garments and think, “Why is
“A pattern maker and cutter help realize the vision of the designer…If possible, a pattern maker should have independent conversations with the designer about his or her expectations of what the costume should look like.” The Costumer: Why is pattern making so important? Scassellati : A pattern maker and cutter help realize the vision of the designer. How does this costume work with the vision of the designer? If possible, a pattern maker should have independent conversations with the designer about his or her expectations of what the costume should look like. Then the pattern maker can supplement that vision with his or her own vision of what the costume ultimately should look like. The important thing is that you are dealing in lines and seams and darts. Where you put those features can augment a figure that needs augmenting, or make someone look wider in the chest, or look slimmer in the waist. M AY 2 0 1 9
18
costumers.org
this line here, that seam there?” There needs to be some adaptation so the costumes fit today’s modern figures—some period costumes, for example, got their shape from heavy corsetry and the amount of corsetry today isn’t what is was in the 18th century. But if you don’t do those things and ask those questions, you’ll end up with [nothing more than] a modern adaptation of a period costume or dress. That is something you have to be most careful about. For more information about Vincent Scassellati and his experience in costume making, see the profile that starts on page 11. Kathleen Furore is the editor of The Costumer.
conference highlight
Mascot Restoration: A Q&A With Dale Morton By Ed Avis
Editor’s Note: Dale Morton, owner of Dale Morton Studio Mascot Costumes in Hurricane, West Virginia, will be presenting a session on mascot restoration at the 2019 NCA Conference. In this interview, Dale discusses his business and what he will teach NCA members during his presentation.
do that. The more pieces we would make the better we got at it. I was also involved in theater, doing the make-up prostheses, and I would get my makeup supplies from a costume shop in Huntington [West Virginia] called Magic Makers. I would show them pictures of my masks and so forth, and the more
The Costumer: How did you got involved in mascot design and creation?
I would go in there, the more I got to know them. Eventually they asked to me to come work for them as a mascot sculptor. I worked for them for a couple of years and really taught myself how to do it by experimenting with different materials and molds and things. Then in the mid-‘90s I went back to school and did some other things for a while, but in 2000 I decided to make
Dale Morton: Through most of my youth I was interested in costumes and artwork. Me and my friends would make Star Trek and Star Wars costumes. After high school, we got interested in masks and makeup, and taught ourselves how to M AY 2 0 1 9
19
costumers.org
I’ve also made mascots for Hasbro, the PGA, Stouffer and Proctor and Gamble. For Hasbro we did 10 giant Sorry game pieces. They had them on the street in New York City, and they showed up in the background of the Today Show. But other than that, I don’t know what they used them for. The Costumer: Your presentation will be about mascot restoration. In your experience, how often do mascots need to be repaired? Morton: It all depends how well they are treated. With Marco the Buffalo, for instance, we made his head out of fiberglass because Marshall is really tough on him. That’s the only furcovered head I’ve made out of fiberglass. Every six months or so they send him in for repairs—like to replace a hand, or some seams came apart, or a horn got dinged. Sometimes I get mascots that were made by other companies that are cheap—the glue fails, the fur is coming off, the paint is flaking. People bring them to me to spruce them up. The Costumer: What skills are required to be in the mascot business? Morton: Well, there are a lot of odd skills that are good to have. My primary training was as a sculptor. All of our heads start out as clay sculptures. In a lot of cases molds are made out of the sculptures, so you need to know how to mix plaster, lay layers of burlap on it, and the other skills of mold making. Pattern making is another skill. You have to be able to
“[At the Mascot Restoration session] they’ll get a nice overview of the different materials and substances involved in mascots… We’ll talk about what problems you normally run into with mascots made by other companies, and good methods to fix them.”
mascot-making a full-time business. I didn’t know how to sew, but Magic Makers put me through a crash course in sewing, and after I opened my own studio in 2001, I taught myself the finer points of sewing. I got better and better at sewing and patterning, and it just took off from there. The Costumer: What’s the most famous mascot you’ve made?
Morton: I’d say the most famous is the mascot of Marshall University, a buffalo named Marco. Marco is very much loved in Huntington. A few years ago, they wanted to upgrade Marco, so they called me. We redesigned him, made him look more modern and used better materials. They’ve been using my Marco for the last three years. We made three of them for them. M AY 2 0 1 9
20
costumers.org
take a three-dimensional form and break it down visually onto a flat pattern. Of course, sewing is important, but you don’t need to know a lot of different stitches. Another skill is appliqué. That’s taking a logo or image, breaking it down into its constituent parts, tracking it to fabric pieces, laying them on top of each other, and sewing them together to look like a logo. You also need to know painting and air brushing. All of my eyes are hand painted with a brush. Then there’s rubber silicone molding, such as for teeth, and reinforced latex for noses. So, when you really break it all down, there’s an amazing amount of stuff you need to know!
“Sometimes I get mascots that were made by other companies that are cheap—the glue fails, the fur is coming off, the paint is flaking. People bring them to me to spruce them up.”
The Costumer: What can NCA members expect to learn in your session at Conference? Morton: They’ll get a nice overview of the different materials and substances involved in mascots. I’ll show them some different methods for making parts, such as teeth, and how to secure them to the head. We’ll talk about what problems you normally run into with mascots made by other companies, and good methods to fix them. The Costumer: What else should NCA members know about you? Morton: The most important thing is that I’m available to them. If they have a problem with a mascot, or just need some advice, they can call me. And they can order pieces from me—a head, hands or feet, whatever. They can depend on me! Ed Avis is the publisher of The Costumer. M AY 2 0 1 9
21
costumers.org
P roduct parade Rubie’s Captain Marvel and Shazam Deluxe Costumes. The #700597—Rubie’s officially licensed
Captain Marvel Children’s Deluxe Costume—features
a padded jumpsuit with extended sleeve and 3-D molded star emblem, fabric belt and fabric headpiece. The
#700799—Rubie’s officially Licensed Shazam Deluxe Adult Costume—includes a muscle chest jumpsuit with attached
3-D gauntlets, 3-D boot tops, belt and deluxe hooded cape. 516-326-1500 x188; rubies.com
New from WONDERFLEX®. WONDERFLEX®PRO has a
new, smoother texture for the ul-
timate in smooth surface applications. It’s great for creating finer
details and curves, and works well
utilizing silicone press molds. The FOSSHAPE®BLACK 400 is
a medium weight thermoform-
able non-woven felt-like material now available in solid color black (not dyed). And it’s ODDY
tested safe for archival fabrics!
Pictured: Raven Mask made of
Mehron’s Resident Evil™ 2 Zombie All-Pro Makeup Kit—new this May! This deluxe kit lets the every-day gamer bring to life the terrifying
FOSSHAPE®BLACK 400 with
The kit contains all of the necessary professional special FX products used by
wonderflexworld.com
Raccoon City zombies from the popular Resident Evil™ 2 video game franchise! leading Hollywood makeup artists. Using the included step-by-step instructions and applications tools, anyone can create their own truly professional Zombie
look and bring a Resident Evil™ 2 character to life! Packed with products and great pro advice, the kit is great for creating amazing RE2 Cosplay, Zombie Walk, and Halloween adventures! 800-332-9955; mehron.com M AY 2 0 1 9
22
costumers.org
WONDERFLEX® PRO beak. 603-778-0190;
NCA Marketplace Advertising in the NCA Marketplace is $35 per issue (10% discount for NCA members). You will be billed upon publication; payment is due upon receipt. For full details, see the advertising contract available at www.costumers.org. Contact Ed Avis at 708-218-7755 or pub@costumers.org.
Ellie Shoes’ Gillian Boot. The 421-Gillian is a knee-high flip sequins boot on a 4-inch heel. Available in white, green and rose gold. 714-771-0015; www.ellieshoes.com
Seasons USA, Inc.’s
Crazy Bonez Skeletons.
Seasons’ popular line of Crazy Bonez now includes light up skeletons! The new battery-operated sea animals include a
12-inch-wide Octopus, a 16-inch-long Deep Sea Fish, and a 19-inch-long Electric Eel. Get them all to create an under-
Like the NCA on Facebook!
water spectacle—and your customers will be swimming for more! 844-405-7046; www.seasonsusainc.com
Graftobian’s HD Pro Color Corrector Powders. Each shade in the quad is also available as an individual compact. These versatile powders
color correct the most common skin imperfections in light to medium skin tones, and
work to diminish flaws for a more balanced and cleaner looking complexion. They in-
stantly smooth and even out skin tone and texture for a more luminous look, while delivering a natural-looking finish that
won’t cake, crease, or settle into fine lines. Wear them alone or over makeup application. They are great for quick touch-ups throughout the day. 608-222-7849; graftobian.com M AY 2 0 1 9
23
costumers.org
Go to www.costumers.org and look for the Facebook link at the bottom of the page!
ATTENTION ALL COSTUMERS Save The Date! Mark your calendars for the 2020 Halloween & Party Expo! Date: Place:
January 17 - 19th, 2020 Ernest N. Morial Convention Center, New Orleans, Louisiana
Watch future issues of The Costumer for more information.
My Favorite Costume Aaron T. McFarland Tinsley Transfers San Fernando, California tinsleytransfers.com The Costumer: Are there any secrets to creating a realistic-looking transfer?
Editor’s Note: In this issue’s My Favorite Costume feature, we digress a bit from costumes to cover the topic of transfers. The following Q&A with Aaron T. McFarland, who handles research and development at Tinsley Transfers in San Fernando, California, is a sneak preview of the information-packed education session McFarland will present during the NCA conference in July.
McFarland: It’s all about the edges. Besides the ease of application, the edges of latex and foam pieces can never compare to a transfer. If you can get an edge that needs little to no blending you are over half way there. The secret to thin edges are a good mold and a tongue depressor. Yes, it’s that easy.
The Costumer: Are transfers like the ones Tinsley Transfers offers becoming more and more popular on the costume scene today? Aaron McFarland: The transfers have been used in film and television for over 15 years. We are slowly building the awareness of transfers in the costume community. But when people give it a shot and see how much time is saved and much quality is added, it is easy to keep them on the transfer train. The Costumer: What are some of the newest offerings in the category—things members of the NCA should know and learn about?
The Costumer: What are one or two of the favorite transfer projects you’ve worked on recently? And why were they among your favorites? McFarland: Most of my work keeps me in the R&D lab, but Zombie Rot transfer (above) one of the projects I am proud of was a movie called Fury. We went through so many test sculpts Cut Throat transfer (left) and skin color matching it was extremely rewarding to see the McFarland: The most current in final product. novation from the Tinsley Lab is our prosthetic adhesive called Acrylbond. It What is your favorite costume? To be considis a replacement for spirit gum. Simply ered for an upcoming My Favorite Costume brush it on, let it dry clear, and you can profile, email Editor Kathleen Furore at apply. Acrylbond eliminates the smell, kfurore@yahoo.com. the skin irritation and the hassle of trying to find the magic moment to apply prosthetics and hair.
About Tinsley Transfers Founded by Hollywood make-up and special effects artist Christien Tinsley, Tinsley Transfers was established in 1999 during the filming of the movie Pearl Harbor. While working on approximately 40 extras who required multiple wound and burn effects daily, Christien realized the need for a quick, timesaving tool to create such effects. The end result was an easy-to-apply tattoo transfer with an emphasis on continuity and reality of the effects. Tinsley Transfers Inc. has provided custom temporary tattoo transM AY 2 0 1 9
24
costumers.org
fers for Vin Diesel in XXX, Brad Pitt in The Ocean Films, Sean Penn in Mystic River, Gary Oldman in Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban, Wentworth Miller in Prison Break, Adrian Brody in High School and Justin Timberlake in Alpha Dog. Along with the 2-D transfers, Christien also developed and implemented “Prosthetic Transfer,” a 3-D prosthetic that is transferred to the skin, during the filming of The Passion of the Christ. Christien received an Academy Award nomination in 2005 and an Academy Award for Scientific and Technical Achievement in 2008 for this revolutionary process. You can see the entire body of Tinsley Studio’s work at TinsleyStudio.com.
