Lifestyle Magazine Foodie Issue - September 2016 by Lifestyle Magazine

STYLE, ART, CULTURE, + EVENTS OF THE SOUTH VALLEY SEPTEMBER 2016

FOODIE FEATURE

EPICURE

TRAVEL

TULARE COUNTY CUISINE

CHEFS OF LIFESTYLE

DINING IN JAPAN

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FOODIE FEATURE

MORE THAN A FOOD BANK

TULARE COUNTY CUISINE

FoodLink for Tulare County Nourishes Bodies and Educates Minds

The Valley’s Unexpected Culinary Oasis

Learn how FoodLink is changing the way Tulare County residents receive—and perceive—food.

8 Letter from the Executive Editor 10 Wordplay

EPICURE

CHEFS OF LIFESTYLE A Nod to Our Culinary Contributors

Meet the local restaurant owners and chefs behind Lifestyle’s monthly epicure features.

12 Reflections of Visalia: Estrada’s – From Tamale Parlor to Spanish Kitchen 50 On The Cover: Tomato and Kale Pasta with Goat Cheese and Walnuts 52 Local Adventure: Fall – Wine Tasting in Paso Robles 54 Happenings

TRAVELER’S TREK

JAPAN Discovering a Nation Through its Cuisine

44 4 LIFEST YLE | SEPTEMBER 2016

Follow travel writer Cheryl Levitan as she learns more about Japanese culture through this vibrant country’s food.

COVER: Tomato and Kale Pasta with Goat Cheese and Walnuts. Recipe, design, and photo by Lori Rice. ABOVE: A heaping steak salad from Bravo Farms in Tulare.

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Visalia Lifestyle Magazine is published monthly and is distributed via direct mail to nearly 13,000 homes in the upper-middle and high-income neighborhoods in Visalia and Exeter. An additional 2,500 copies are distributed at various distribution points around both communities. Views expressed in columns are those of the columnist and not necessarily those of DMI Agency or its advertisers. Circulation of this issue: 15,500 © 2016 DMI Agency

A classic cocktail from Jack & Charlie's, courtesy of bartender Tate Darwin. 6 LIFEST YLE | SEPTEMBER 2016

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FR O M TH E

EDITOR

f there were an award for crazy months, August might take home the prize. Not that crazy is always a bad thing, but for me personally, August certainly had it moments. As I am writing tonight, I feel grateful for every positive outcome and for the extra time I was able to spend with my most recent crush, Elijah James (my grandson, for those of you who are new around here). At eight months old, that kid has me wrapped, tight.

cutting through and pushing water, Phelps’ eyes were laser focused straight ahead in his lane, while his most worthy rival, Chad le Clos, turned his head away from his own goal to watch the sure winner, Phelps. How often have we seen this in our businesses? Plenty. Advertising, marketing, and publishing are some of the most competitive you’ll find, and we’ve had more than one worthy rival. I love replaying what Michael Phelps has

As community members who try to shop and buy local, we applaud you and thank you for your contributions to our community…This month, we hope you delight in this special edition of Lifestyle Magazine as we highlight the incredible foodie scene in and around Tulare County. E X E C U T I V E

E D I T O R

K A R E N

T E L L A L I A N

FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO SUBMIT A STORY IDEA, CONTACT ME AT KAREN@DMIAGENCY.COM

Earlier in August we had our eyes glued to the Olympics as we watched the world’s greatest athletes compete for a little round disc. Bronze, silver, or gold, the value is more than the price of the metal, but rather in the ability to achieve one’s “dreams.” I hesitate to type that word – dream – because many people have them, but few realize them. Whether short on talent or ambition or luck, not everyone stands on the podium. I’ve often wondered why one person runs faster or jumps higher than another. This year might have given us visual insight into one of those reasons – the mental game. If you watched the Olympics, you probably watched swimming, waiting for the Olympic god’s to shine once, or twice, okay five more times on Michael Phelps. Of course we were watching from our sofas at home, but it was a swimmer in the lane next to Phelps who had the best view. The posturing had begun before the race. But once in the pool, arms 8 LIFEST YLE | SEPTEMBER 2016

said about just wanting to swim, and to be the first Michael Phelps and not the second Mark Spitz. Although I’ve never given it much thought, we have always tried to keep our eyes in our own lane, and be the best we can be with the talent and luck we’ve been afforded. We are thankful for the many people who help us make that happen every month. With Q4 just ahead, we want to encourage our fellow small business owners to keep your eye on the goal, and to finish 2016 as the best you can be. I’m sure you, like us, spend countless hours sweating when no one else sees. As community members who try to shop and buy local, we applaud you and thank you for your contributions to our community. We hope everyone remembers to support you with their purchases and service needs. This month, we hope you delight in this special edition of Lifestyle Magazine as we highlight the incredible foodie scene in and around Tulare County.

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WO R D PLAY News on writing, books + the world of publishing

his month Roald Dahl would be 100 years old and H.G. Wells would be 150. Dahl’s stories include Matilda, James and the Giant Peach, Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, The Fantastic Mister Fox, and dozens more. The Life of Roald Dahl: A Marvellous Adventure (Franklin Watts) by Emma Fischel comes out this month in honor of Dahl's centennial. It is illustrated and geared to readers who are six years and up. It includes his childhood, time in Africa, experiences as a fighter pilot, and his early writing. H.G. Wells wrote The Time Machine, The War of the Worlds, The Island of Dr. Moreau, and well into the hundreds of other novels, non-fiction books and essays, short stories, film scripts, and articles. A Dover Thrift Edition of Wells' Men Like Gods (first published in 1923) is just out in paperback on Sept. 21 – Wells' birthday. The story begins in the summer of 1921 with Mr. Barnstable, a disillusioned journalist, who is suddenly transported 3,000 years into a Utopian future, along with some other accidental time travelers who are not satisfied with the idea of success and happiness for all.

to tease you into thinking you just have to read any book she recommends – and she is probably right. Her books last month were educational books for adults, both self-help and fiction. They were: Choose Bliss by Moneeka Sawyer, Present Over Perfect by Shauna Niequist, Uninvited by Lysa TerKeurst, Truly Madly Guilty by Liane Moriarty, and La Rosa: A Novel by Louise Erdrich. She also discusses her choice for Book of the Month: The Underground

VALLEY WRITERS

Railroad by Colson Whitehead. Listen to her descriptions at kmph-kfre.com/ great-day/book-club/book-club-811educational-books-for-adults. Or just log into KMPH’s Great Day and click on the Book Club tab to hear any of the episodes.

Fitting right in with H.G. Wells' themes, is Molly Neely, a Fresno author celebrating the publication of her first novel, The Sand Dweller (Black Opal Books, Sept. 10). In Neely’s novel, the half-demon son of the devil’s greatest general goes on a 5,000-year journey to find his way between the forces of darkness and light. Along the way, his struggle is matched by a young priest with a tragic past who is losing his faith. Watch valley writer Bonnie Hearn Hill as she discusses books with Jim de la Vega or Kim Stephens on Fox26’s Great Day Book Club. Bonnie will give you just enough information about the books 10 L I F E S T Y L E | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 6

access to books. The top ten challenged books of 2015 were Looking for Alaska, Fifty Shades of Grey, I Am Jazz, Beyond Magenta: Transgender Teens Speak Out, The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time, The Holy Bible, Fun Home, Habibi, Nasreen’s Secret School: A True Story from Afghanistan, and Two Boys Kissing. The most common reasons for challenging these books were unsuitable for age group, religious viewpoint, offensive language, explicit sexuality, homosexuality, sex education, and violence. WRITING CONTESTS

BANNED BOOKS WEEK Banned Books week – celebrating the freedom to read–is Sept. 23 to Oct. 1 this year. The week brings together librarians, booksellers, publishers, journalists, teachers, and readers to support freedom of expression, even of unpopular ideas, and to expose the harm from censorship and restricted

Submissions are open until Oct. 15 for the Miami University Press Novella Prize. Manuscript length should be between 18,000 to 40,000 words. The winner receives $750, a standard publishing contract, and 10 copies of the book. Reading fee: $25. Entries must be unpublished, original works. Details: www.orgs.miamioh.edu/ mupress/novella. The FC2 Ronald Sukenick Innovative Fiction Contest is open to U.S. writers in English who have not published with the Fiction Collective Two (FC2). Short story collections, novellas, and novels of any length are eligible and may have appeared in magazines or anthologies. FC2 looks for “fiction considered by Amerca’s largest publishers too challenging, innovative, or heterodox for the commercial milieu.” Deadline is Nov. 1. The prize is $1,500 and publication. Details at: fc2.org/sukenick. aspx. THE LAST WORD “I have a passion for teaching kids to become readers, to become comfortable with a book, not daunted. Books shouldn't be daunting, they should be funny, exciting, and wonderful; and learning to be a reader gives a terrific advantage.” - Roald Dahl (1916 -1990)

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E S T R A DA’ S – F R O M TA M A L E PA R L O R TO

SPANISH KITCHEN I

t started as Estrada’s Tamale Parlor, and when the family-owned restaurant closed its doors after more than three-quarters of a century, it had become a Visalia legend. The iconic eatery is gone now, but it had a remarkable run and impacted the lives of so many people. The Estrada family and its connection to the food scene in Visalia began with Louise Estrada. She was born in Los Angeles in the early 1870s to the Farquero family, and came to Visalia in 1880 as a young girl. In

1889 she married a local carpenter named Manuel Estrada. Louise worked in a cannery and also sold fruits, vegetables, and tamales around town. In addition, she worked part time at Pablo’s Tamale Parlor. After Pablo Vielma died, Louise and her husband helped with the business for a time. In 1913 Manuel had a stroke and died, leaving his pregnant wife to care for their eight children all still living at home. Life was hard for the family, but the community rallied to help them. Adolph Sweet offered the new widow T EXT

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whatever she needed from his store and John Morgan offered the same from his meat market. All of the generosity overwhelmed Louise so much, she published her thank you in the Visalia Daily Times newspaper saying, “We wish to thank our friends for their kindness in our recent bereavement and during the illness of our husband and father.” But Louise knew as the sole bread winner she needed more than handouts to support her large family. She had worked in the food business for years

O MME N

Estrada's at 414 W. Main Street

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so she mentioned the possibility of opening a restaurant to her children. They wholeheartedly supported the idea and offered to help. In about 1914 she opened a small restaurant, actually a tamale parlor, believed to be first located near Church and Acequia streets, but eventually she moved her business to 202 S. Court Street. Her specialties were tamales, enchiladas, and beans. She called her cuisine “early California.” Her parlor proved to be so popular, she outgrew the space. The Milan Vuvovich home on Main and West streets became available, so in May 1924, Estrada’s Tamale Parlor relocated to the 414 W. Main Street address on the far west end of the commercial district. The newly refurbished residence, turned

years, the family restaurant expanded to other California cities including Fresno, Modesto, Colma, Santa Barbara, Oakland, and Bakersfield. In 1958, two of the Estrada children, Manuel Estrada Jr. and his sister, Mrs. Raymond Gonzales, who co-owned the downtown Visalia restaurant, decided they needed larger quarters, so they had a restaurant built at 1545 S. Mooney Blvd. They opened the doors for New Year’s Eve, but the official grand opening was Thursday evening, January 15, 1959. The new ranch style building made quite a hit in Visalia. Designed by Gabriel Castela of Palm Springs and constructed by Duarte & Duarte of Visalia, the nearly 6,000 square foot building cost a little over $75,000. The lot was huge

and found the restaurant closed. Cliff went to the back door and Bud Estrada greeted them and opened just for them. They had a great meal and appreciated the special treatment. Deanna called the Estrada family “one of the best you could ever know.” Tom Rey and his family lived in Visalia and they also have fond memories of the restaurant. He remembers his Aunt Dorothy and her special attraction to the food there. She went to school with the Estrada girls and after she moved away, she would occasionally return home and eat at the restaurant. Between trips she would even have Estrada tamales sent back to Detroit, Michigan. For more than three decades Estrada’s Spanish Kitchen occupied its place on Mooney Blvd. On August 28, 1992, the

restaurant, was set up to accommodate 150 guests. Eventually the restaurant went from a tamale parlor to Estrada’s Spanish Kitchen, although tamales continued to be an important part of the menu. On Saturday, Jan. 9, 1932, tragedy struck the Estradas. Louise, family matriarch and Visalia restaurateur, suffered a heart attack while attending a golden wedding anniversary in Tulare. She was rushed to the hospital and by 11:30 p.m. that night she died, the victim of “chronic myocarditis.” Her funeral service was held at St. Mary’s Catholic Church in Visalia and she was interred in the Catholic section of the Visalia Cemetery. The restaurant business stayed in the Estrada family and various members took over its operation. Over the

measuring about 161’ x 663’. The interior included a banquet room, main dining room, and a cocktail lounge called the Charro Room. The bar in the restaurant was a first for Estrada’s. A large fireplace gave the bar a homey feel, and the cushioned chairs, tables, and bar added to customer comfort. The bar was sunken about two feet below the main ﬂoor giving the area an elegant and interesting look. Estrada’s in Visalia had many loyal customers over the years. Deanna Wells shared a story. After living in Visalia for a number of years, her family relocated to Minnesota. Years later Cliff, her husband, and a business associate were traveling between northern California and Los Angeles and decided to stop at their family’s old favorite eating place— Estrada’s. They detoured into Visalia

owners filed for bankruptcy, victims of a bad economy. The restaurant closed its doors and the property went on the market. Later that year, Red Lobster began efforts to take over the property and eventually tore down Estrada’s and built their own restaurant on the site. For 78 years, Estrada’s of Visalia had a legendary charm that attracted so many and it all began with Louise Estrada. Her gracious personality, limitless generosity, delicious food, and good business sense formed the foundation for this popular gathering place. Thanks to Gilbert Gia for his biographical material that helped me immensely.

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LEFT: Estrada's Spanish Kitchen at 1545 S. Mooney Blvd. RIGHT: Louise Estrada. Photo provided by Mike Estrada.

FoodLink for Tulare County Nourishes Bodies and Educates Minds

oodLink for Tulare County is more than a food bank. True, its dedicated staff and army of volunteers sort and deliver more than 7 million pounds of food to households every year. But FoodLink is also changing the way Tulare County residents receive — and perceive — food. A year of transition has been underway for the nonprofit agency, lead by Executive Director Dr. Sarah Ramirez. Most notably, FoodLink moved into its new Exeter headquarters in June. The new facility allows FoodLink more space to store fresh produce and shelf staples such as dry beans and canned food. A new refrigerated delivery truck has been purchased, thanks to generous community support, and the new headquarters also features a kitchen, where cooking classes for the public will be held starting in October. But perhaps most vital to the organization’s evolution is changing the way the public views FoodLink for Tulare County, which celebrates 38 years of service this month. As executive director, Sarah has spent a significant amount of time interacting with the public, donors, and community groups. In that time, she has discovered T E X T

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A daughter of Mexican farm workers, Sarah holds a doctoral degree from Stanford University and worked as an epidemiologist for Tulare County Public Health. She also is the founder of BeHealthy Tulare, a community-based group that advocates for equitable health for all members of society. Sarah has been encouraging the public to look to food banks for more than a monthly handout, as they can be conduits to resources and serve as leaders, helping communities live healthier lives. “All of us, no matter our economic situation, should have the opportunity to access good food,” she said. “The goal is to get people thinking outside the food box.” In fact, Sarah adds the hashtags #thinkingoutsidethefoodbox and #fooddignity to FoodLink’s social media posts, as a way to increase awareness and compassion among its followers. Sarah said this approach has garnered some detractors, but like all organizations, FoodLink must evolve as it serves the area. One way to do that is to offer diabetes-friendly pantries, especially considering Tulare County’s high obesity and diabetes rates. Sarah also envisions a medical referral

some misconceptions. For one, she said, many were unaware FoodLink existed, and still others didn’t realize that like a business, nonprofit agencies like FoodLink need steady income to pay monthly electricity and insurance bills, as well as prepare yearly

CHARITY

budget plans. And so, Sarah has embarked on an ambitious journey to change the way the public supports, defines, and uses its local food bank, drawing inspiration from mentors and other food bank leaders across the country.

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The new FoodLink for Tulare County building in Exeter.

program with local health care providers. In fact, that monthly food box could evolve to represent so much more to a family. Chris Tantau, manager at Venida Packing in Exeter who has served on the board of directors for three years, said the shifting focus will have positive impacts on the community as a whole. Chris said he lends his volunteer time to the organization because of the great need in the area. “We’re trying to not be a crutch, but a tool to make positive changes in people’s lives, through cooking, education, and nutritional information,” he said. “This is an important safety net because of the poverty level we have in the Valley, especially Tulare County. There is a need to help the elderly, children, and seasonal workers who perhaps don’t have money to feed their family properly. This is a vital link to help people get through the month. We pick up where other services leave off, and that’s why I support FoodLink.” Chris explained that in many unincorporated parts of the county, residents live in what is referred to as a ‘food desert.’ Despite being surrounded by crops that end up in stores and on dining tables around the world, residents in small communities such as Tooleville, Plainview, and Ivanhoe have little to no access to wholesome food. “Without a nearby grocery store or a car, they have no fresh produce,” he said. “When you get out into these areas, you realize the need.” Building upon the momentum created by the move to Exeter, Chris said expanding programs that are currently being put into place is on the agenda. That includes a community garden, an educational kitchen open to the public 18 L I F E S T Y L E | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 6

for classes, a community outdoor center, and a client choice pantry, where people are able to access a store-like setting and go shopping for items needed in their home. “We have more modern visions of usefulness,” he said. “We want to break the cycle. We don’t want to keep giving food to families for the rest of their lives, we want to help them make the changes for themselves.” The only way FoodLink can achieve these goals is to stabilize its funding. According to its website, FoodLink for Tulare County obtains food from

a variety of sources: food drives, local farms and packing houses, food processors and manufacturers, gleaning groups, groceries, and dairies. The food is then divided into usable quantities and distributed to a network of more than 30 agencies. Individuals, corporations, foundations, and federal, state and local government provide funding for food distribution and administration. But the best way for the public to help is to make a monthly commitment to FoodLink, whether financially or as a volunteer. Sarah explained that with as little

as $10 a month, FoodLink is able to purchase 45 pounds of fresh produce because of its purchasing power as a food bank. Volunteers are needed to help distribute food at its food closets throughout the county. Sarah also said she will gladly speak with church or community groups to explain various ways they can assist FoodLink, particularly as holiday assistance plans are being made. Roque Salinas, owner of Alejandra’s Mexican Restaurants in Visalia and Exeter, is a regular donor to FoodLink. He supports FoodLink’s “SmartPack” program, which aims to supply children with healthful meals and snacks while school is out. “I’m happy that I have all the food I need, but there are kids who don’t have anything to eat when school is out,” he said. “If we’re lucky enough to be doing good in business, we can donate a little more to help these kids. It doesn’t hurt you to help a little bit.” For Sarah, running a food bank was never on her career horizon, particularly considering her university degrees. A tireless worker and dedicated advocate for healthful living, she said she is realizing that all of her efforts over the years have brought her to this moment in life. “This is what I have been waiting for,” she said with tears in her eyes. “We can do this work together. We are finally at a point where these things are possible. We are at the precipice of something wonderful and hopeful.” FoodLink’s next fundraiser will be a “Saucy September Evening” on Sept. 17, benefitting both FoodLink and Congregation B'Nai David. The event features pasta tasting and a silent auction.

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Fugazzi’s martini lounge at the downtown Visalia location offers a relaxed, intimate atmosphere.

t’s perhaps a clunky neologism, this term “foodie.” But what else are we to call gourmands, gastronomes, and other culinary surveyors and enthusiasts, especially in a region as seemingly down home and unpretentious as the San Joaquin Valley? The “foodie” moniker may perhaps grate your ears; lately it’s sounding insufferable to some, as any trend endures the inevitable backlash. But for now it will suffice as we consider just how far the south San Joaquin Valley’s expansive locally and chef-owned food scene has advanced in our humble climes here in the Nation’s Breadbasket. So herewith, foodie it is. OUR REGION’S EXPECTATIONS

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If one arrives famished in Paris or Copenhagen or New Orleans, a sophisticated traveler totes along certain expectations, bearing in mind the region’s iconic food culture. The storied traditions and les merveilles of French cuisine is top of mind; or we port our nouveau expectations to Denmark when being seated at Noma, a frequenter on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. If we’re hitting the Big Easy, we know we’re going for Cajun or creole. But what is cuisine about in our unique stretch of California? When hungry travelers first visit the San Joaquin Valley, they mostly show up with little to no expectations. Besides, what exactly describes San Joaquin Valley culture, anyway? Oklahoma light? Texas without the twang? A mildwintered Midwest? Whatever your take, and whatever tourists may preconceive of us, any stereotypes are sure to be challenged here, at least where the region’s food scene is concerned. Thousands of annual Ag Expo attendees, two million Sequoia National Park visitors, and many other travelers will find incredible and diverse abundance and unexpectedly high quality fine dining and fast casual options that will knock their socks off, and with a surprising affordability as compared to its northern and southern metropolitan neighbors.

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TASTEMAKERS, LITERALLY FOODIE FEATURE

The famous phone booth outside of Jack & Charlie’s speakeasy-style restaurant in Visalia.

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Natives, or those of a certain age who have lived in Tulare County long enough, will recall our many local institutions of yesteryear; restaurants that were once iconic eateries that defined local food culture. That was before the triumph of America’s mega-chain invasion and malliﬁcation (since we’re doing neologisms) that some say ruined American palates, an article of faith among true foodies. The preservedin-amber Mexican-inspired kitsch of Las Palmas; Finni’s and Mama Gina’s; the rustic quaintness of The Wagon Wheel; Estrada’s Spanish Kitchen; the imported 50’s Italy of Stella’s; Roma before it was subsumed by the Oval’s woes; and, of course, Taylor Brother’s Hot Dogs and Mearle’s, our erstwhile “American Graffiti” museum piece with its nostalgiaobsessed clientele who kept it on life support well beyond its relevant era. Each was emblematic, defining local eateries in their various ways. Some old school landmarks endure and continue to find patronage, like Las Palmas since 1943, Taylor’s, Rosa’s, and Hong Kong. Those latter venues continue to inspire a devoted following. They may not be counted among the food-forward, but they have in their individual ways achieved a certain welldeserved reverence for having survived decades in what is a notoriously tumultuous business, subject to everchanging food fashion, the economy, and increasing competition. These places are Old Visalia in our midst, and we love them for that. These reference points highlight how sophisticated

and diverse the restaurant scene has become in the Valley, a key part of our quality of life. REDEFINING THE SCENE One cannot ponder origins of our region’s increasing culinary sophistication without considering the name Vartanian. All roads really lead back to 1966 when John Vartanian launched The Vintage Press Restaurante. The VP, as locals know it, has carved for itself a defining niche that continues to set the area standard for fine dining. Vartanian’s son, chef David Vartanian, gives only the slightest nod to the nouvelle as he hews to the classics, a fitting match for the VP’s historic ambiance derived from a pastiche of features and fittings assembled from a variety of historic architectural sources. On a typical menu, Pistachiocrusted king salmon, Australian lobster tail with filet mignon, and steak au poivre with green peppercorns, cream, shallots and brandy show Vartanian’s impulses. His approach is more than good enough to land him frequently in the local media and maintain a popularity that has kept the restaurant aﬂoat through thick and thin, particularly the lean years of the Great Recession that finished off a number of others. Upon entering the VP, the venue’s belle époque atmosphere will have you fancying the emerald green of a wormwood Pernod, as if a few Lautrec or Degas girls might join you. In all, quite a surprising effect after pulling up to the blacktopsurrounded premises on what is an otherwise undistinguished stretch of Center St. in Downtown Visalia.

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Tazzaria serves quality coffee, tea, lunch, and dinner.

LIFEST YLE | SEPTEMBER 2016

The Vintage Press bar and main dining room.

Fugazzis restaurant offers a metropolitan vibe to downtown Visalia.

SPEAKING OF SPEAKEASIES On one of the more distinguished blocks of East Oak Avenue, the burgeoning Vartanian empire now contains the understated Jack & Charlie’s, a basement speakeasy-style fine dining locale that is arguably and quite possibly the best thing happening in Visalia, food-wise. Here we may have buried the lead, so to speak, as few, if any, Visaliaarea establishments possess the foodie cred of Jack’s (as the local foreshortening vernacular has it; sorry Charlie). And as with the cred brother Greg Vartanian brings to the menu, longtime mixologist Tate Darwin brings to the lively bar scene. Established 10 years ago in the basement of the old Tulare County jail under the helm of Greg, the concept’s ever-changing menus take their strongest cues from Bay Area California Cuisine, a lineage whose luminaries include Chez Panisse, the French Laundry, or Zuni. The service is knowledgeable and efficient, and they won’t sit down at your table and insist on a chat. Opened just before the crash of ’07, the establishment struggled to get its footing initially, but has more than proven that a chef-owned restaurant that aims high can indeed succeed in this region. DESTINATION DEPOT More recently, the Vartanians’ acquisition of the long-established Southern Pacific Depot Restaurant a few years ago, added an instant classic to their portfolio. But while the structure itself had mostly maintained its grandeur as restored in the early ‘70s, the onetime Vintage Press rival was long overdue for an infusion of Greg’s more contemporary culinary impulses. Those shifts occurred, of course, to the consternation of some longtime patrons who wanted their favorite dishes prepared exactly as conceived years prior. Satisfying The Depot’s established customer base – while attracting support from a new audience whose contemporary tastes are farther

ranging and more up-to-date – has been a challenge, but the changes seems to be working. A SLICE OF THE CITY What the Vartanians have accomplished for the area’s fine dining, the energetic and restless Jessen duo has done for more casual venues. James and Michelle Jessen’s growing restaurant empire’s youthful urban ﬂair would be right at home in much trendier places than Visalia, in “it” places like Portland or Austin. First with Tazzaria in 2000, then Pizano’s Wood Fired Pizza, the literally-named the Public House Downstairs (The PHD), and more recently, Glick’s & Co., Jessen restaurants help define the vibrant scene on Main Street, Visalia’s most desirable real estate and the locus of the city’s café société. Tazzaria’s transformation over the years illustrates the owners’ commitment to giving the people what they want. Once the sun sets, this daytime coffee shop and casual eatery shifts into a finer dining experience with a diverse, imaginative menu each night. After dinner, patrons can head downstairs to The PHD for a craft cocktail, often prepared by a gentleman in suspenders. With fictitious cocktail names like “Useless Pocket” and “Coal Miner’s Daughter,” it’s a safe bet your drink will taste as unique as its name implies. If you’ve worked up an appetite after a few libations, head East on Main Street and you’ll bump into Pizano’s Wood Fired Pizza, where an oven is waiting to serve up a palatable pie. The Jessen’s most recent project, Glick’s & Co., transports us back to a time when grocery trips were made specifically with tonight’s family meal in mind. With a variety of fresh meats, cheeses, local vegetables, and anything else a home chef might demand, Glick’s is a one-stop-shop for fresh ingredients. And if you come in at lunchtime, their 80/20 Burger menu promises a big bite with even bigger ﬂavor. LIFEST YLE | SEPTEMBER 2016

Café Lafayette is a FrenchAmerican fine dining establishment in Exeter. Photo provided by Café Lafayette.

A BIT OF FRANCE… IN AMERICA’S COWPIE CAPITAL Exeter started in the mid-1800s as a cattle and railroad town that later billed itself as “The Cowpie Capital of America.” That a French chef – an actual man from France – now runs such a well-received fine dining establishment in a former frontier town better known for agriculture than actual culture illustrates the town’s ongoing evolution toward antiques, arts, and culture. It is perhaps strongest-yet proof of our premise that Central California is not quite the cultural backwater others may think. Chef Fred Imbert, a native of Evian in the French Alps, launched Café Lafayette last year where he turns out French-inﬂuenced American Continental cuisine. The French-American nexus is summed up in the eatery’s name and premise that recall Marquis de Lafayette and General Washington’s auspicious partnership in the American Revolution (we’re glad that was Imbert’s chosen inspiration instead of the building’s origin as Exeter’s original hospital). If Imbert continues to unite his French and American factions successfully, perhaps he can transform Exeter, if not into Paris exactly, at least into a rural magnet on par with Yountville – a distant burg nobody much knew existed before The French Laundry helped define that Napa Valley town.

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Meanwhile, the groundbreaking Monet’s, important as Exeter’s first arguably serious fine dining establishment, continues forth with its charming European bistro atmosphere and California-inﬂected cuisine. The spot’s intimate postage stamp venue with sidewalk seating and public mural views might cause you to forget you’re

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via its toney interior design, original fine art by local artists, and a more contemporary menu that slanted toward Northern Italian-inﬂected California cuisine, Fligor ceded the antiquated fern bar esthetic to others and staked his claim on an audience hungry for a new vibe. Since then, he has grown his inﬂuence and honed his role as a community supporter and patron of the arts. Menu items like the halibut tacos are knockouts that will have you thinking you’re at a beachside taco shack in Baja, while the bar’s generous cocktails will make you forget that you’re not. LET’S DO LUNCH

dining in the former Cowpie Capital. Grilled salmon with Portobello ravioli, ﬂank steak raclette, and an eggplant Napoleon are among the numerous enticements. METROPOLITAN BITE When Mike Fligor launched Fugazzi’s California Bistro back in the late ‘90s, he completely changed the conversation and brought the latest trends to Visalia fine dining. With its attention to style

A host of excellent options beckon below the fine dining line, but well above expectations for the more lowcommitment lunch category. Places like Charcuterie, Farms Fresh Bowls, Orange Valley Café, Watson’s Veggie Garden, Quesadilla Gorilla, and The Lunch Box are all locally-owned. And keeping profits local is a great reason to frequent these modestly-priced places in lieu of corporate-owned chains, to whom we Central Californians are sending megabucks eastward for at-best middling quality, little of which is ever to be seen again. Local chefs are taking risks, pouring their hearts into their creative work, and keeping profits local. We salute them all.

Charcuterie (or CHAR) is known for its quality coffee, creative breakfast and pastries, and lunch options.

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OTHER CONTENDERS The brick-industrial complex is alive and well in the Valley. Brewbakers, Planing Mill, Bravo Farms, and Café 210 are each settled into their own different niches, but all share the same vibe by making good reuse of historic vernacular buildings. The Brewbaker’s scene remains lively as ever, seemingly unfazed by the entry of other beer and brewpub competitors down the street and in the works, perhaps spoils to the one who got there first. The Planing Mill brings a different, more updated take on pizza, although more standard treatments appear too. The venue was once an actual planing mill, hence its name. While built of 21st Century brick, another notable spot is Crawdaddy’s, known for its live music scene, French Quarter architecture, and creole-inspired menu. Their 2nd Floor restaurant’s more refined menu has even brought in a new crowd, perhaps à la the “upstairs, downstairs” mores of yore.

Visalia’s recently approved plans for a “Micro-Brewery, Micro-Winery District” in Eastern downtown, Visalia might soon be detected on California’s beer scene radar (just you wait, San Diego). Members of the local brew club, TCHOPS (Tulare County Homebrewers Organization for Perfect Suds), as well as other regional breweries, will now have a venue to bring their libations to Tulare County’s thirsty residents, not to mention the thousands of annual tourists who frequent Visalia’s downtown after a day at the Sequoias. This will be a welcome addition to Visalia’s rising beer culture, which has already seen tremendous growth in the last three years alone, thanks to brewpub locations like Pita Kabob, Planing Mill, and Sequoia Brewing Company. But beer patrons aren’t the only ones celebrating; Kingsburg’s Blend Wine Room is making its way to downtown Visalia in early October, where they will serve a variety of wines from the Central Valley and beyond.

WORTH THE TRIP In the outskirts of Tulare County, a few spots have recently made names for themselves, including Orange Works Café in Strathmore. Locally, Orange Works Cafe has been a beloved ice cream destination for years, but its recent appearance on Visit California’s Youtube series, “California Dream Eater,” put it on the West Coast foodie map. Just a short drive from Strathmore, Stafford’s Chocolates opened a new storefront in downtown Porterville this summer, where they sell their famous chocolate along with Intelligensia coffee. Perhaps this local gem will inspire others to open up shop in Porterville’s dormant downtown. Last but certainly not least is Three River’s Ol’ Buckaroo. Located just along the Kaweah River and surrounded by nature, what this farm-to-table food truck might lack in options, it makes up for in ﬂavor and atmosphere. CHEERS TO HOPPYNESS The aforementioned Brewbakers may have been the first to stir the local brew pot, but they certainly won’t be the last. With the City of 28 L I F E S T Y L E | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 6

BREAKFAST: THE FINAL FRONTIER If the San Joaquin Valley has proven at all resistant to trends originating elsewhere, would-be restaurateurs take note: Breakfast is surely the area’s next growth category. For 30 years elsewhere, breakfast/brunch and lunch places have adopted the same creative standards as their fine-dining counterparts. Not so in Visalia. For foodies, breakfast remains mostly a barren desert dotted by too-familiar standards, conventional tastes, and unoriginal thinking. Some exceptions are Cafe Tommy’s unique twist on comfort classics, Charcuterie’s minimalist but creative menu, and of course brunch at the VP is always magnificent and a great value for the quality. But area customers seem to want diner classics’ familiar comforts of the predictable interiors. If so, this is their town. But Visalia became what it is because of a few individuals who raised a bar many locals weren’t even aware needed raising. Currently, breakfast is perhaps the only category where chains rival the local offerings. Local owner-chefs, what say ye?

Brewbakers is the first microbrewery restaurant to come to Visalia.

Bravo Farms, known for its generous salads and sandwiches, recently expanded their Tulare location.

FOODIE FEATURE

LIFEST YLE | SEPTEMBER 2016

FOODIE FEATURE

UNITED NATIONS OF FOOD India Curry House. Little Italy Restaurant & Cafe. Tachibana. Thai Basil. Keothip. Sushi done right at Sushi Kuu. The Mediterranean splendors of Pita Kabob. Papusas at El Salvador, little Central American revelations to be had in Farmersville. Visitors from outside our region are often more than pleasantly surprised to discover something in nearly every major nationality and food genre. Among the best kept secrets: Bo Syprasertâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sy Salathai, a little slice of Bangkok on the Oval (where one can also get their pho fix around the curve at Pho & Seafood). Others get the Facebook check-ins, but Syprasert quietly nails the Thai classics. The region is a true melting pot and we are all the better for the diverse dining options found everywhere one looks. With an area population that is more than 60 percent of Mexican heritage, you might think Visalia would have an undisputed lock on high-quality Mexican restaurants. Like breakfast, many of us are in search of the perfect, most authentic, most inventive

LIFEST YLE | SEPTEMBER 2016

Jason Mandaro, director of operations for Jessen Restaurant Group, pours a craft cocktail at The PHD in Visalia.

Jack & Charlieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s talented bartender, Tate Darwin, mixes up a fiery cocktail for fall.

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Little Italy Restorante and CafÃ¨ overlooks the Visalia Fox Theatre in downtown.

Pita Kabob Gastropub in downtown Visalia serves Mediterranean cuisine and offers 30 craft beers on draft. Photo by Taylor Johnson Photography.

Mexican restaurant. If not inventive and authentic, we’d at least settle for a California burrito on par with SoCal’s hole-in-the-wall, beachside shacks (extra guac and double meat, please). We’re all experts, we all remember Mrs. Garcia’s Christmas tamales. But what we self-proclaimed foodies really crave is Pujol, Mexico City’s top entry on the World’s 50 Best. And we want it for cheap. But we’ll take Alejandra’s, Chilito’s, and of course, the kitsch allure and solid classics of Las Palmas located downtown since World War II raged. We may not understand every force converging to establish such an outsize and vibrant culinary scene in the South Valley, but we know we’re blessed with

an overflowing cornucopia. Aside from influences from California Cuisine’s broad strokes – perhaps more an ethos than a cuisine – Visalia and the surrounding area form a region without an identifiable cuisine of its own, unlike say, southern cooking or Tex-Mex. But perhaps that means our culinary artists are unburdened by the constraints of stifling regional orthodoxies. Even without them, our restaurant scene and nightlife have nonetheless become an intrinsic part of our culture and big draw for local promoters and recruiters, given the almost inexplicable embarrassment of riches for a region of our population. Great restaurants, boutique dairy products, craft brewers, and

others have synergized to create an unexpectedly vital and on-trend food culture (take that, Bay Area and SoCal snobs; our proprietors do it faster, cheaper, and just as well as you!). But the usual attributions – our abundant high quality, fresh, and local produce from our farmer’s markets; access to quality seafood from the Pacific; and magnificent local soil quality – cannot really account for the astounding success. The more likely explanation: The enormous creativity, risk-taking, and sheer number of venues on offer. For all that, we are indebted to the local chefowners who have put it all on the line and birthed a foodie culture that rivals those in areas of much greater renown.

LIFEST YLE | SEPTEMBER 2016

CHEF BIO

Chefs of A NOD TO OUR CULINARY CONTRIBUTORS

or years Lifestyle has featured the culinary expressions of our community by showcasing the work of local restaurant chefs. These chefs have dedicated their lives to the craft of culinary perfection in both fine and casual dining, and we’re honored that our magazine has served as a canvas of their creativity. To celebrate these chef’s achievements and years of commitment to our area’s evolving culinary scene, we’ve gone through the archives and picked some of our favorite features from each chef. We hope you will also enjoy getting to know these artists a little better as they’ve answered some questions about their craft.

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Elaine Dakessian

CHEF & CO-OWNER OF SA-TRÉS BIEN TAILORED CUISINE, LEFT OF CENTER

How long have you been developing recipes for Lifestyle? About six or seven years.

What is it about being a chef you ﬁnd most rewarding? I love entertaining and making people happy.

What is your greatest culinary achievement? I started cooking as a personal chef for private clients in 2000. I now have four chefs that work under me. We cater everything from beautiful, intimate dinners to events of over a thousand. Recently, along with my new partner, Sue Sa, I have opened a Latininspired tapas and grill, Left of Center.

When it comes to food culture, how has Visalia changed since you started cooking here? Visalia has grown tremendously over the last 10 years, offering some great places to eat, a variety of ethnicities, farmer’s markets, and the downtown has maintained its vibrancy. We have the best downtown anywhere in the valley.

What genre of food do you enjoy cooking most and why? I enjoy Mediterranean and Latin-inspired cuisine; foods from Spain, Italy, and Greece, as well as dishes from the heart of Mexico and into South America.

What is your favorite dish you’ve created for Lifestyle? A few years ago I was able to honor my father, who was a great cook, and feature the one dish I always asked for when I visited him in later years, lamb and rigatoni with burned butter.

Other than your own restaurant, what is your preferred spot to dine in Tulare County? I have always enjoyed the variety the Vartanians offer in their three restaurants. I have huge respect for their standard of cooking and their dedication to excellence. My new favorite is Sushi Kuu. After a long day of cooking for others, what is your go-to dish at home? My go to in a hurry is tacos. If you were forced to pick another career, what would it be? Forensic science. I used to work in a morgue and I think I would find it very rewarding to solve the mysteries surrounding what happens to people.

CHEF BIO

TOP: Arancini, December 2015. BOTTOM: Pineapple Glazed Sword Fish, June 2016. 36 L I F E S T Y L E | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 6

Photos by Taylor Johnson Photography

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ASPS CareCredit financing accepted LIFEST YLE | SEPTEMBER 2016

Ryan Lucas CHEF AT GLICKS & CO., TAZZARIA, OWNER OF THE CHEF’S TABLE

How long have you been developing recipes for Lifestyle? Three or four years. What is your greatest culinary achievement? Perfecting fresh pasta. What genre of food do you enjoy cooking most and why? Italian. Because it's in my blood. What is it about being a chef you ﬁnd most rewarding? If you are a chef, no matter how good of a chef you are, it's not cooking for yourself; the joy is in cooking for others. CHEF BIO

When it comes to food culture, how has Visalia changed since you started cooking here? It's definitely become more progressive. What is your favorite dish you’ve created for Lifestyle? It's actually my last submission, the Duck Ramen. Few people do ramen in Visalia, so I thought somebody should. Other than your own restaurant, what is your preferred spot to dine in Tulare County? Davorn’s Place. It’s definitely the best Thai food I've ever eaten in California. After a long day of cooking for others, what is your go-to dish at home? Two Taco Bell bean burritos. If you were forced to pick another career, what would it be? Hair stylist. TOP: Chicken Curry, May 2015. BOTTOM: Roasted Leg of Lamb, March 2015. Photos by Taylor Johnson Photography

LIFEST YLE | SEPTEMBER 2016

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If you have to have a heart attack …

Russell wasn’t feeling well after a very busy week. He saw a cardiologist and then the phone rang – get to the hospital. He had suffered a heart attack. He quickly made his way to the hospital where he underwent an urgent triple bypass surgery.

“I was pleased with the care … I feel very blessed. Everyone – my surgeon, the nurses, everyone – was wonderful. If you have to have a heart attack, Visalia is a good place to have one!”

CHEF BIO

James Jessen

How long have you been developing recipes for Lifestyle? I did their first culinary issue, but I can’t remember how long ago that was. What is your greatest culinary achievement? To have shared our passion for food with people through restaurants that have stayed popular and relevant for some time now. What genre of food do you enjoy cooking most and why? For sure Italian – simple Italian with quality ingredients speaks for itself. You can make fabulous dish with minimal ingredients.

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What is it about being a chef you ﬁnd most rewarding? The joy that you see on people’s faces when you have gone beyond their expectations; when you have really hit that mark.

When it comes to food culture, how has Visalia changed since you started cooking here? I think trends change much quicker with the TV shows, challenges, and celebrity chefs. That inﬂuences everywhere. Diners are more educated today. What is your favorite dish you’ve created for Lifestyle? The Spicy Shellfish Cioppino.

CHEF & OWNER OF JESSEN RESTAURANT GROUP TAZZARIA, PIZANOS, PHD AND GLICKS & CO.

Other than your own restaurant, what is your preferred spot to dine in Tulare County? El Torasco After a long day of cooking for others, what is your go-to dish at home? Smart chicken roasted in the barbeque. Simply use salt, pepper, and 75 minutes later, you’ve got crispy, juicy perfection. If you were forced to pick another career, what would it be? Hand-building fine furniture. PICTURED: Stuffed Roasted Duck by James Jessen, Travis Doughtery, and Micah Waddell, November 2015. Photo by Taylor Johnson Photography

CHEF AND CO-OWNER OF THE VINTAGE PRESS, JACK & CHARLIE’S, AND THE DEPOT

How long have you been developing recipes for Lifestyle? One year. What is your greatest culinary achievement? I’m always trying to improve, so I’m still working at it. What genre of food do you enjoy cooking the most? Comfort food. Everyone always seems to be pleased with it. What is it about being a chef you ﬁnd most rewarding? Pleasing people who come into our restaurants and satisfying their expectations. When it comes to food culture, how has Visalia changed since you started cooking here? With all of the cooking shows and food magazines, people are exposed more than ever to new ideas. In Visalia, we’re seeing a variety of unique ﬂavors and a new sense of culinary passion. What is your favorite dish you’ve created for Lifestyle? Heirloom Tomato Salad with Burrata. The local tomatoes we have here in the summer are as good as it gets. Other than your own restaurant, what is your preferred spot to dine in Tulare County? I don’t have just one preferred spot. I like to go to as many different restaurants as I can and enjoy the camaraderie and good food that they offer. After a long day of cooking for others, what is your go-to dish at home? A simple grilled prime steak and good glass of wine. Great company makes it even better. If you were forced to pick another career, what would it be? A carpenter. That was my dream job as a kid. 42 L I F E S T Y L E | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 6

CHEF BIO

TOP: American Kobe Strip Loin Steak with Chimichurri, May 2016. Photo by Danny Klorman Photography. BOTTOM: Heirloom Tomato Salad with Burrata, August 2016. Photo by Taylor Johnson Photography.

VISALIA BREAKFAST ROTARY CLUB PRES ENTS THE 17T H A N NUA L

FRIDAY

OCT 21ST

Entry deadline: Friday, Oct.14

Golf Tournament & Crab Feed AT THE VALLEY OAK GOLF COUR SE

REGISTRATION

10:30 AM

TEE TIME

CRAB FEED

12 pM

5 pM

AT THE W YNDHAM INN (Immediately following golf tournament)

Thanks to past participation, the Visalia Breakfast Rotary Golf Tournament and Crab Feed has donated more than $1,600,000 back into our community. TO REGISTER OR FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE CONTACT: Scott James: 559.352.6982  fax: 559.272.3770 scottjames@greatdanebailbonds.com

TOURNAMENT FORMAT

4 person scramble (best ball) Limited to the first 144 players Pick your own team Ladies will play from red tees Only 1 player per team with a 6 handicap & under  October handicaps, minimum team total handicap 72  If no GHI number, write your average score  Maximum Handicap: men 25, women 30     

City of Arts and Sciences

TRAVELER'S

TREK

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Perfect blemish-free cantaloupe, still on the vine, comes at the high price of $140.

JAPAN

DISCOVERING A NATION THROUGH ITS CUISINE

ood is more than just nourishment. At home, it’s a way to socialize, express appreciation, celebrate, bring family together, and express traditions as well as heritage. When traveling, dining with locals illustrates how another culture can be similar to our own, while the quality of their food and its presentation says much about the values of its people. That is why chatting and nibbling my way through farmer’s markets, grocery stores, restaurants, and street stands is a must when I travel, even more so than seeing one more church or museum. It is lucky for me that my husband doesn’t relish eating as I do. Without his tempering inﬂuence, the check-in counter for our ﬂight home might feel inclined to weigh me along with my luggage to levy overage charges. While I research destinations, I never go fully armed with a list of not-to-bemissed foods and restaurants. Too often I’ve seen fellow travelers disappointed after dining somewhere an “expert” recommended. We’ve always had the best outcomes and stories when we take off to explore. Since Japan has exemplary sanitation and safety, it’s the perfect place to ask locals what is good and let your feet and eyes be the experts. Cuisine in a foreign country is rarely the Americanized version we have at home. But the dining experience in Japan makes our sushi bars and T E X T

A N D

teppanyaki grills seem like a rowdy, allyou-can-eat drama. From street stands to fine restaurants, cooking and serving in this island nation is synonymous with grace. Known for their tranquil warmth and generosity of spirit in all interactions, when food or beverages are involved, the Japanese elevate it to something akin to spiritual nourishment for the soul. Not a people to ever draw attention to themselves, they instead draw your eye to the quality of ingredients and the artistry of arranging, plating, and garnishing even the simplest meal. And the food itself? While not bold, it is always fresh and seasonal with ﬂavors, and never boring. Frequently made with minimal ingredients, the taste is often complex and sometimes surprising. In searching for the reason, I discovered something new about “sense of taste.” Completely familiar with sweet, salty, sour, and bitter, in Japan there P H O T O S

Matcha and “sweets" as a welcome at a traditional ryokan resort.

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is a fifth and all important taste experience – umami. It’s derived from a mixture of amino acids, especially present in ripe, dried, aged, and fermented items, which impart a savory sensation triggering salivation. The Japanese use soybeans, brown algae seaweed, tuna, tomatoes, and mushrooms to concentrate these amino acids for use in soup and cooking stock (called dashi), mixed with flour for grilled items and to create shoyu (the term for a variety of soy based sauces). When this concentration process involves acid hydrolysis and added salt, it creates MSG. In Japan, food presentation is complex as well. Although very pleasing to the eye, you have to feel sorry for whomever washes the dishes. Most often served on a tray (ubon), there’s commonly a myriad of small plates, bowls, and pots with decorative papers, flowers, or leaves under or around them to prevent items with differing flavors, temperatures, and cooking style from touching. None of this tableware or decoration is chosen randomly either, instead changing according to tradition and season. This is why most Japanese homes own enough assorted dishes that their cabinets resemble a miniature Crate and Barrel. That all of this beautiful food is graciously offered in a two-handed, palms-up posture, accompanied by gentle words, heart-felt smile, and a deep bow makes a recipient feel immensely special. But what is the one thing that doesn’t accompany L E V I T A N LIFEST YLE | SEPTEMBER 2016

Kappabashi-dori Street (Kitchen Town) in Tokyo.

Shabu Shabu lunch with paper thin A5 wagyu slices.

The sashimi course at a fine restaurant in Tokyo.

Known for their tranquil warmth and generosity of spirit in all interactions, when food or beverages are involved, the Japanese elevate it to something akin to spiritual nourishment for the soul. C H E R Y L L E V I T A N that meal? A napkin. That’s right, the Japanese don’t use napkins, instead offering a rolled, moist towel. Most meals consist of white rice, miso soup, a main dish, many side dishes, and pickles (tsukemono). Although sounding like a huge spread, the portions are small and nothing compared to the elaborate meals that are common at traditional ryokan resorts (inns). Called Kaiseki ryori, those meals consist of 15 or more courses which last hours. Most other meals are called “B-grade.” Not meant as a slight, this is the term for commonly eaten food. Relatively isolated from the rest of the world until the mid-1950s, a new dining style was introduced after a Tokyo restaurant manager visited Sweden. Dumbfounded by the smorgasbord buffet restaurants, he thought the concept might be welcomed back home. Unsure what to call it, the 1958 film, 46 L I F E S T Y L E | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 6

“The Vikings,” provided the name. He figured both were Scandinavian and “Viking” was much easier to pronounce than Smorgasbord (sumougasuboudo in Japanese). Pronunciation still proves a bit difficult, however, leaving more than a few visitors confused when they are told the restaurant serves “biking” style meals. Commonly found at hotels, these buffets are still serene with beautiful plating. We pillaged and plundered a few, and loved every bite. So which cuisine experiences were most memorable? Differences exist regionally, but generally the food is consistent throughout the country. Western and foreign food can be found in larger cities (as can forks), and all dining venues are a bit noisier in the south, especially near Osaka. Historically merchants by trade, proprietors there position workers at the door to encourage passersby to enter. Their

piercing high-pitched calls are so at odds with this soft-spoken culture, it’s hard to believe this is an effective practice. Here are a few more highlights: Matcha: Not to be confused with green tea, it’s actually green tea leaves ground into a powder and whisked with hot water. Used in highly ritualistic tea ceremonies (and with caffeine equaling coffee), it is served with Japanese “sweets” to balance its somewhat bitter taste. Sweets: Don’t expect satisfaction. Often consisting of odd gelatin cubes, chunks of sugar, pasty balls of mashed red beans, or pastries missing some essential element, these “goodies” were often left uneaten. Sake and Shochu: Seductively smooth but packing a wallop, sake is brewed from rice in a process similar to beer but with 15 to 20 percent alcohol content. Cheap sake is served warm and the

Many growers wrap individual fruits and vegetables to ensure blemish-free results at a price – $10 single oranges and $5 tangerines.

Spider Crab Seafood Restaurant.

When traveling, dining with locals illustrates how another culture can be similar to our own, while the quality of their food and its presentation says much about the values of its people. C H E R Y L

quality varieties are served cold. Shochu is a distilled liquor made from rice, other grains, nuts, and vegetables with 45 percent alcohol content. Drink Vending Machines: From Super Zero Pepsi (extra caffeine and no calories) to cold-brewed coffee and Procari Sweat (this electrolyte-infused water only sounds disturbing), these machines are often found in unlikely places. Wasabi: Think you’ve been eating the real thing? Think again. Real Wasabi is spicy but smooth ﬂavored, bright green, and comes from grating the Wasabia Japonica root. The darker green paste served outside Japan is a mixture of horseradish with mustard and food coloring. Sushi: Created centuries ago to mask the smell of day-old fish with vinegared rice (seaweed wraps added to prevent sticky fingers), it has evolved into a variety of rolls, fried tofu pouches, and small hand-folded seaweed cones. Nigiri 48 L I F E S T Y L E | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 6

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sushi is the most common form served – a finger of rice topped by wasabi and a fillet of raw or cooked fish or shellfish. Beer: With five major brands, Asahi is the largest and headquartered in Tokyo. Its main building resembles a large beer glass with a gold-leafed flame on the roof next door. Given this 300ton flame lies sideways, locals refer to Philippe Starck's design as the “300-ton golden sweet potato” (potato being a derogatory term meaning “country bumpkin”). Beef: Wagyu is the beef of Japan. Ranked by flavor, tenderness, and color, A5 is the ultimate. Kobe may be the best-known waygu outside of Japan, but many regions within the country have won similar national contests (boosting their already exorbitant price). U.S. prime beef has 6 to 8 percent fat while wagyu has 25 percent fat in prominent marbled patterns. Going to great lengths to ensure “chubby” bovine was lost on us. After a few bites of contest-

winning A5 Haida beef (admittedly mouth watering), I put on my glasses. Big mistake. One look and I felt wasabi-green. Takoyaki: Often referred to as “squid balls,” this wheat-based batter is filled with minced squid and cooked in pans with multiple small circular depressions. Constantly turned with chopsticks until golden brown, they are topped with mayonnaise and worcheshire sauce or ponzu (a sweet and salty sauce). Shabu Shabu: A great social meal, this communal boiling pot is used to quickly cook thinly sliced meat and vegetables, which are then dipped in a variety of sauces. Okonomiyaki: A thick, savory pancake with cabbage mixed in the batter, it is topped with meats, seafood, or cheese. Spider Crab: Similar to King Crab, it’s especially prominent in the south where specialty restaurants have horror-movieworthy mechanical crabs above their entrance.

TOMATO & KALE PASTA with GOAT CHEESE & WALNUTS

he best thing about farm fresh vegetables is that it takes little effort to bring out their finest qualities. There are few things better than greens, herbs, and tomatoes paired with a steaming bowl of pasta. In this recipe, kale is lightly sautéed with garlic, onion, and basil and then stirred into linguine. Fresh grape tomatoes add a burst of juicy sweetness while creamy goat cheese and crunchy walnuts add a delicious balance of bright and refreshing ﬂavor. Serves: 6 INGREDIENTS 1 lb. linguine 4 T extra virgin olive oil 2 pints cherry or grape tomatoes, halved ¾ tsp fine ground sea salt ½ C thinly sliced yellow onion 3 cloves garlic, minced 6 C chopped kale leaves 5 fresh basil leaves, chopped ¼ tsp ground black pepper ½ C chopped walnuts, toasted 4 oz goat cheese (chèvre) DIRECTIONS Cook the linguine according to package directions. Drain and toss with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Set aside. Place the tomatoes in a medium bowl. Toss with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and ¼ teaspoon of the salt. Let sit while you prepare the greens. In a large, deep skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high. Add the onion and garlic and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the kale and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until wilted. Add the basil. Sprinkle in the remaining ½ teaspoon of salt and the black pepper. Remove from the heat. Add the pasta to the skillet and toss to combine the noodles with the kale. Divide pasta into 6 serving bowls. Top each with an equal amount of tomatoes and walnuts. Break up the goat cheese and add crumbles of cheese to each bowl before serving.

ON THE COVER

R E C I P E

C O V E R

P H O T O

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FALL WINE TASTING IN

PASO

he vacations are over, kids are going back to school, summer is ending, and you just realized you never made that trip to wine country like you promised yourself. Not to worry, we actually recommend visiting Paso Robles in autumn. The rolling hills are glowing with hues of brilliant gold; the leaves on the vines have changed from luscious green to blazing reds and oranges, the air is crisp and the promise of an even more incredible vintage is just around the corner. Harvest is in full swing, picking bins are placed about, winemakers can be spotted in the cellar and some of the most anticipated winery LOCAL events happen during ADVENTURE this time of year.

RO BLES

Be fragrance free. Smells can affect taste and mood. It’s best not to wear any perfume or cologne that might change the way you or others experience the wines. Try something new. Drop all preconceived preferences. All wines have something different to offer. You might be surprised that your preferences can change. Pack a picnic. Following the wine trail can lead you out of town and the options for food can be limited. Most wineries have patios with beautiful

HELPFUL TIPS TO GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR NEXT WINE COUNTRY EXPERIENCE: Get an early start. The best part about our job is chatting with our visitors, getting to know them, and hearing their stories. The staff might be more inclined to offer special pours or spontaneous tours of their facility early in the day. Unfortunately, there is not as much opportunity to talk and tour in the afternoon, when it is loud and busy. Hire a driver. Chances are you will taste more wine than you anticipate, so be prepared with responsible transportation. Wineries tend to be spread out, which can mean longer trips spent in the car. On the plus side, this time can be spent relaxing and reminiscing about your favorite wines from your last stop. Also note, as you make your way through wine country, cellular service can be a bit spotty, so planning to use Uber as your designated driver might not be the best option. T E X T

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views, perfect to sit and relax. It’s important to stay hydrated too, so don’t forget to pack some water. Buy the wine you love. Purchasing wine you’ve enjoyed is a great keepsake of your trip once you’re home. However, many wineries are small production, which means that they can sell out of those wines you loved so much. Purchasing the wines you love while you’re in the tasting room guarantees you’ll have a memento of your unforgettable trip and a chance to experience those wines again in the future. If traveling with wine is a concern, ask about shipping.

S T E P P ,

P E L L E T I E R E

E S T A T E

Don’t destroy the wine you love. Storing the wine you just bought in the trunk of a car parked in the hot sun is not ok. You can keep the wine cool throughout the day by bringing a cooler. Another option for keeping your wine safe is hiring a driver (mentioned above). Hired drivers are in tune with the needs of tasters, so they will keep the air conditioning in the car going to keep your wine cool during those warm vfall days. Take part in the events. Many wineries, especially during harvest time, have special events going on; winemaker dinners, grape stomps, barrel tastings, live music, barbeques, and special wine pairings to name a few. Stay where you play. Like Pelletiere Estate, many wineries have accommodations. We recommend finding a place that fits your style to stay among the vines. The views are incredible this time of year, and staying at winery accommodations promises you’ll catch some harvest action. Don’t be late. If you have an appointment at a winery, it’s okay to be a little late. We know it happens, but please be courteous and call to give a heads up. However, it is not okay to arrive at closing. Tasters should arrive no later than fifteen minutes before closing. Five o’clock is a standard closing time, sometimes mandated by the county and wineries should not be expected to accept new tasters that late in the day. Harvest season is an idyllic time to visit Paso Robles. There’s a world of possibility right in your backyard. Follow these helpful tips, and you’re sure to have and unforgettable wine country experience. V I N E Y A R D

W I N E R Y

Photo submitted by Pelletiere Estate Vineyard.

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HAPPENINGS

RUSSIAN GRAND BALLET THEATRE PRESENTS “THE SLEEPING BEAUTY”

T H E AT R E & A R T S TASTE THE ARTS FESTIVAL Hosted by the Arts Consortium, "Taste the Arts" is a day of celebration of the arts, featuring activities for the whole community. Enjoy more than 70 regional visual artists and their paintings, sculptures, steel work, photographs, gourds, and jewelry, as well as the featured entertainment of musical acts, dance troupes, and cultural performers spread across two different stages. This event is free.

Following Russian Grand Ballet’s successful U.S. debut performance at Visalia Fox Theatre during its 2015 North American Tour, the troupe is returning to invite ballet lovers to the world’s favorite fairy tale. "Sleeping Beauty" captivates the hearts and imagination of all generations of ballet enthusiasts. Tickets range from $39.50 to $77 and can be purchased at the website below. When: Oct. 22, 8 p.m. Where: Visalia Fox Theatre, 308 W. Main St., Visalia Contact: foxvisalia.org

When: Oct. 15, 11 a.m.- 6 p.m. Where: Downtown Visalia, Garden Street Plaza and the Old Lumber Yard Contact: artsconsortium.org/ tastethearts

YOUTH ORCHESTRA OF LOS ANGELES 10TH ANNIVERSARY TOUR Join the Youth Orchestra Los Angeles (YOLA) at the LJ Williams Theater for a celebration of the transformative power of music and community. This 45-minute program spotlights 80 musicians, ages 12 to 18, performing works by Beethoven, Brahms, and Dvorák, complemented by narrative and video components. Tickets are $20 for adults, and children under 12 are free with a paid adult. When: Oct. 27, 7 p.m. Where: L.J. Williams Theater, 1001 W. Main St., Visalia Contact: 732-8600

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HAPPENINGS

DIVERSIONS & EXCU R S I O N S  23RD ANNUAL WAITER'S RACE 2016 Join the Breakfast Lions Club for another exciting Waiter's Race taking place on Main Street in Downtown Visalia. Servers from various local restaurants compete for prizes and bragging rights. Want to race? Register online or contact the Visalia Breakfast Lions for a form. Cost is $25 per racer. The first place prize is $1,000. When: Sept. 22, 5:15-8 p.m. Where: Downtown Visalia at Court Street Contact: visaliabreakfastlions.org/ waiters-race

 CRUSH PARTY The Tulare Chamber of Commerce and the COS Foundation are excited to host the 3rd annual Crush Party. Join them for tastings of local wine, spirits, cheese, and other hors d'oeuvres. A collection of 109 select bottles of wine will be the grand prize rafﬂed off during the event. When: Sept. 23, 6–9 p.m. Where: COS Tulare College Center, Building B, 4999 E. Bardsley Ave., Tulare Contact: tularechamber.org or 686-1547

 OKTOBERFEST AT VOSSLER FARMS Join the Visalia Chamber of Commerce for their annual Oktoberfest at Vossler Farms Pumpkin Patch. With a number of food, beer, and wine vendors, there will be plenty to taste at this popular event. Tickets are $40 in advance, $50 day of. When: Sept. 30, 5:30 p.m. Where: Vossler Farms Pumpkin Patch, 26773 S. Mooney Blvd., Visalia Contact: visaliachamber.org

 Local Foodie Events

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VOSSLER FARMS' PUMPKIN PATCH AND CORN MAZE Come down to Vossler Farms for their annual pumpkin patch and corn maze. This family-fun fall destination combines everything you love about the autumn season, so don’t miss your chance to pick out your pumpkins and get lost in the corn maze. There will even be a “field of screams,” a fun, Halloween thrill that will get your heart racing. When: Oct. 1-31(check online for details) Where: Vossler Farms, 26773 S. Mooney Blvd., Visalia Contact: vosslerfarms.com

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 THE 23RD ANNUAL TASTE OF DOWNTOWN VISALIA This year is the 23rd annual Taste of Downtown Visalia. There will be more than 30 participating restaurants, including wine and beer tasting. Enjoy live music by Midnight Wine and ride the Visalia Towne Trolley. Tickets are $35 before Sept. 20 and $40 after. When: Oct. 4, 5-8:30 p.m. Where: Downtown Visalia Contact: downtownvisalia.com, 732-7737

C H A R I TA B L E EVENTS "ONE ACT OF KINDNESS" DINNER & CHARITY EVENT Support Hands in the Community and make a donation or sponsor a table at their 7th annual celebration dinner and silent auction, "One Act of Kindness-A Thousand Ripples." When: Sept. 24, 6-9 p.m. Where: Visalia Convention Center, 303 E. Acequia Ave., Visalia Contact: 625-3822 x3

HAPPENINGS

 Local Foodie Events

 AGVENTURES! FARM TO TABLE DINNER Come support the AgVentures! Learning Center and its 10,000 annual visitors by participating in the annual Farm to Table Dinner and live and silent auction. Tickets are $40 and must be purchased in advance. Social hour will take place at 5:30 p.m. following the golf tournament, and dinner will begin at 6:30 p.m.. All proceeds will benefit the AgVentures! Learning Center. When: Sept. 30, 5:30 p.m. Where: International Agri-Center, Heritage Complex, 4500 S. Laspina, Tulare Contact: 688-1030 or agventures@farmshow.org

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LIFEST YLE | SEPTEMBER 2016

HAPPENINGS  FORGING AHEAD BBQ

WALK TO END ALZHEIMER'S The Alzheimer’s Association 3-mile Walk to End Alzheimer’s is the world’s largest event to raise awareness and funds for Alzheimer’s care, support, and research.

CASA of Tulare County is holding their third annual CASA Las Vegas fundraising event this fall, so mark your calendars. It will be a night of live auctions, music, and exciting events.

You're invited to the Tulare County Historical Society's "Forging Ahead BBQ," featuring the musical entertainment of Dave Stamey and Annie Lyndon. Enjoy a delicious tri-tip and chicken dinner barbeque while listening to some of the best Western music in the country. Tickets are $50, but seating is limited, so call today!

When: Oct. 1, 5-10 p.m. Where: Visalia Country Club, 625 N. Ranch St., Visalia Contact: joann@casatulareco.org or 625-4007

When: Oct. 2, 3:30-6 p.m. Where: Tulare County Museum, Mooney Grove Park, Visalia Contact: 799-1164 or TulareCountyHistoricalSociety.org

CASA LAS VEGAS

 VALLEY OAK SPCA WINE AND WAGS GALA You’re invited to the 7th annual Wine and Wags Gala to benefit the new adoption and education center for the Valley Oak SPCA. Tickets are $50 per person or $400 per table.

When: Oct. 8, 8 a.m.-12 p.m. Where: Mooney Grove Park, 2700 S, Mooney Blvd., Visalia Contact: 753-8500, visaliawalk@alz.org, or act.alz.org/visalia2016

VISALIA RESCUE MISSION 35TH ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION You are invited to join the Visalia Rescue Mission for their annual banquet to celebrate as you hear their history, as well as hope-filled restoration stories. Chances are, you'll be sitting right next to one of their graduates and not even know it. There is both a lunch and dinner option. When: Oct. 13, 12 p.m. and/or 6 p.m. Where: Visalia Convention Center, 303 E. Acequia Ave., Visalia Contact: vrmhope.org

When: Oct. 1, 6:30 p.m. Where: Private residence in Visalia (call to confirm) Contact: 651-1111 ext. 6

 Local Foodie Events

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• Bike rodeo & helmet check

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HAPPENINGS  FALL WINE AND DINE

"SHINE BRIGHT BEYOND TONIGHT" BANQUET The 25th annual banquet, "Shine Bright Beyond Tonight" with comedian Nazareth will be held at the Wyndam Hotel in Visalia. For ticket information, please call the number below. When: Oct. 20, 6 p.m. Where: Wyndam Hotel, 9000 W. Airport Dr., Visalia Contact: 733-8870

Sip, swirl, and support Habitat for Humanity at their Fall Wine and Dine event. Whether you are a first-timer, enthusiast, or connoisseur, join Habitat for Humanity and Café 225 for an amazing meal and wonderful wine to support a great cause. When: Oct. 23, 5 p.m. Where: 225 W. Main Street, Visalia Contact: hfhtkc.org or 734-4040 BARK FOR LIFE IN EXETER  FROMAGE FROLIC – “A TOAST TO TOASTED CHEESE” Join the Visalia Parks and Recreation Foundation for “A Toast to Toasted Cheese,” a grilled cheese and winepairing event. Local restaurants will vie for first place in a grilled cheese cookoff where you are the judge. Relax to the musical stylings of Jamie Hitchcock. When: Oct. 29, 5–10 p.m. Where: Garden Street Plaza, downtown Visalia Contact: Carol Hoppert Hays, 713-4599, carolhhays@gmail.com

The American Cancer Society presents Exeter’s 4th annual Bark For Life. Join ACS for a day of family fun as they celebrate the care-giving qualities of our canine friends. Owners and their dogs will go for a short walk around town with a few stops for water and talks with local trainers and vets. There will be vendors, a k9 demonstration, rafﬂes, pictures with Santa, and more. There is no registration fee. All dogs must be leashed during the event. When: Nov. 5, 9 a.m.–12 p.m. Where: Exeter’s Bark Park Contact: Hayley Tashjian, 731-0757  Local Foodie Events

VISALIA

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LIFEST YLE | SEPTEMBER 2016